RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cx
- - - , 20- - January 03, 2008
I have seen their consoles and they look nice. I might go that route as well. On
the other hand, I like Eric's solution as well.
Cheers
Les
----- Original Message -----
| From: | tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
>
> Les,
> I'm going to go with a center console from Accuracy
> Avionics. I'm also going with their overhead console as
> well, with NACA vents in the rear to feed the air vents.
>
> A far as panel layouts, I've been using ePanel Builder online
> and Accuracy's 3D panel wizard. Right now these suffice
> for the rough order of magnitude that I'm dealing with at this stage.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153115#153115
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lists This Month --
> (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> Click on
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Ah, got it. But I think it is the fault of the competition (Bendix/King, Chelton,
L3, Aviddyne, et al).
I guess I'm trying to figure out what is preventing the competition from coming
out with their own product and giving Garmin a run for their money. I don't
see the experimental EFIS makers entering this market because as with Transponders
and GPS, ADS-B devices will probably have to be TSO'd, even for experimentals.
Garmin used GPS to spearhead their way to avionics dominance, and nothing
I see should prevent one of the other vendors from using ADS-B to do the same.
I don't see this a the fault of Garmin, I see it as the fault of the so-called
competition.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Lack of viable competition creates a stranglehold for most competitors
> and hence the customer. More suppliers, constant demand - better
> pricing. The GDL-90 is made in Salem, Oregon.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based
> Garmin" have a "stranglehold?"
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
> matter and those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
> >
> > The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
> > are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
> > Washington, DC.
> >
> > Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
> > "Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
> > system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a
> time.
> > Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
> >
> > John
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
> > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
> >
> >
> > This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
> > traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers
> are
> > too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
> > (altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
> >
> > Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
> > yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you
> need
> > an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
> >
> > Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> > apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > > And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
> > in class E.
> > >
> > > On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > > > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
> > controlled
> > > > airspace.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
> > Bravo....
> > > >
> > > > P
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
> > winter.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel Dimensions |
Hi
Over the past couple of weeks I have been playing with panel layouts. What I
don't know is what the exact center of vision is offset from the center of
the RV10 stock panel. I have a pretty good idea of where it is but was
wondering if anyone has an exact measurement.
I would hate to have my EFIS off center as it would annoy me to no end every
time I flew.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers & Merry Christmas to all
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Dimensions |
I don't have a number but it seemed to me for the GRT if the left edge
of the efis aligned with the first screw to the left of the left panel
rib that would center up the Horizon one.
-Chris
#40072 finish/panel/top/interior paint
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Dimensions
Hi
Over the past couple of weeks I have been playing with panel layouts.
What I don't know is what the exact center of vision is offset from the
center of the RV10 stock panel. I have a pretty good idea of where it is
but was wondering if anyone has an exact measurement.
I would hate to have my EFIS off center as it would annoy me to no end
every time I flew.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers & Merry Christmas to all
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Dimensions |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Center of pilot's view is about 1.125" inboard of the left panel rib.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153185#153185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Winter Flying |
Couldn't find it. Where on VAF did you post it?
-Jim
In a message dated 12/19/2007 2:44:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes:
Just posted on VAF data from recent flight to SteinAir for those requesting.
Pics show Dynon Lean Mode and all cylinders LOP on O-540.
DEAN
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Dimensions |
Off center being an annoyance is an interesting idea... but I've been
flying behind an asymmetrical, off center steam gauge panel for awhile.
Don't even think about it. Not sure an EFIS changes that. Inquiring
minds want to know.
Symmetry is a beautiful thing - but it occurs to me that it's not as
simple as a perfectly centered screen or array of gauges. There's a
functional symmetry and a perceived symmetry and not sure what else.
The best looking panels seem to have the panels stacked in front of the
pilot or split between pilot and copilot. But having to dip my head to
see the bottom panel will annoy me to no end when in the clouds.
I just spent the day pasting instrument pics to my panel. Very interesting.
Bill Watson
40605
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Over the past couple of weeks I have been playing with panel layouts.
> What I don't know is what the exact center of vision is offset from
> the center of the RV10 stock panel. I have a pretty good idea of where
> it is but was wondering if anyone has an exact measurement.
>
>
>
> I would hate to have my EFIS off center as it would annoy me to no end
> every time I flew.
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
>
>
> Cheers & Merry Christmas to all
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
>
> C-GCWZ (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Console above tunnel |
I used the wood grips from Vans and cut my sticks as short as possible.
Even so, I was not able to get full forward right stick. At that point I
had only the left stick in place. I was using the stock engine control
bracket under the instrument panel crossbar. So, I moved the bracket to the
right a bit (maybe 1/2"-1") to get full travel. When I put the right stick
in, again using Van's wood grips and the shortest possible stick length, I
was able to hook the right stick into the space between the mixture and the
throttle. Not good. So, I bought the quadrant and will see how it affect
stick travel. $$ and work at this point but better than locked controls!
Eric, that's a beautiful console but I think you may have some interferance.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 8:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Console above tunnel
Hi Eric
You tunnel mod looks brilliant! Thanks for the pxi and the ideas.
One of the small complaints I heard at KOSH about consoles was that they
could restrict travel of the stick because your leg gets in the way (the
console doesn't allow your leg to move out of the way).
Have you sat in your plane to check range of movement of the stick?
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
_____
From: Eric Parlow [mailto:ericparlow(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: December-19-07 9:14 AM
Cc: kearney(at)shaw.ca
Subject: Console above tunnel
Here's what I have done for the console above the tunnel
ERic--
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
_____
How are you planning to mount the two boxes over the tunnel? I have
contemplated getting one of the fiberglass consoles but a also considering
building something as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Technically speaking the Garmin products are now made outside the US of
A and they are now situated safely, from a corporate environment on a
Caribbean Island (away from CONUS).
Formerly they were from Olathe, Kansas, represented mid-America value,
made a great product, bought (Morrow Electronics - Salem, OR) which had
been acquired by UPS (so they could track their trucks and compete with
FEDEX)and the rest is our wide range of Christmas GPS choices.
Bring on the optional ADS-B suppliers. My money is always quickly
converted (what little I have).
I will know when Garmin decides to flex their muscle and become
predominant in aviation when they drop the price on the twin G-900 and
ADS-B for widespread fleet consumption by us little folks. Take a
lesson from your handheld GPS products.
Merry Christmas,
John C
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Ah, got it. But I think it is the fault of the competition
(Bendix/King, Chelton, L3, Aviddyne, et al).
I guess I'm trying to figure out what is preventing the competition from
coming out with their own product and giving Garmin a run for their
money. I don't see the experimental EFIS makers entering this market
because as with Transponders and GPS, ADS-B devices will probably have
to be TSO'd, even for experimentals. Garmin used GPS to spearhead their
way to avionics dominance, and nothing I see should prevent one of the
other vendors from using ADS-B to do the same. I don't see this a the
fault of Garmin, I see it as the fault of the so-called competition.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
matter and those who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Lack of viable competition creates a stranglehold for most competitors
> and hence the customer. More suppliers, constant demand - better
> pricing. The GDL-90 is made in Salem, Oregon.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based
> Garmin" have a "stranglehold?"
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
> matter and those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
> >
> > The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday
and
> > are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
> > Washington, DC.
> >
> > Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so
that
> > "Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision
avoidance
> > system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a
> time.
> > Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
> >
> > John
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
> > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
> >
> >
> > This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
> > traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers
> are
> > too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
> > (altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
> >
> > Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using
it
> > yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you
> need
> > an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
> >
> > Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> > apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > > And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class
D...hence
> > in class E.
> > >
> > > On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > > > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
> > controlled
> > > > airspace.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha
or
> > Bravo....
> > > >
> > > > P
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
> > winter.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Dimensions |
Thanks Bob
I was using my handy dandy laser level and estimated it was around there. It
is good to know what the "book" answer is so I can plan accordingly.
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: December-19-07 8:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Instrument Panel Dimensions
Center of pilot's view is about 1.125" inboard of the left panel rib.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153185#153185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Being a sort of cheap frugal type I made these stands out of $12 worth
of =BE
plywood and 2 long rams from Harbor Freight on sale.
Seems to work OK. (base is 18" square.)
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel Dimensions |
Bill
I have been playing with layouts, online, for a couple of weeks. What you
select as an EFIS setup seems to drive the placement everything else. With
the smaller GRT screens, you could have two independent efis screens side by
side with the primary display directly in front and the second to the right
displaying a moving map. That drives everything else to the right. The
beauty of this is that it would allow the second efis to be used as a backup
if the primary screen had a brain fart.
With the larger AFS Efis screens, it seems that the only reasonable layout
is to have one centered in front of the pilot and one in front of the
co-pilot. That would be fine if both seats had pilots. Otherwise, in the
event of a failure on the pilot's side, it would seem that using the
co-pilots' screen as a backup would be problematic.
Decisions, decisions...
I just pickup up a copy of the Panel Planner software to help my panel
design process. Embedded in the software is an article from Kitplane
Magazine from 1999. I found the same article online (unfortunately without
the pictures) but it still has a few pearls. I especially took note of the
issues around positioning of switches. The following link will get you to
the article.
http://www.accessmylibrary.com/coms2/summary_0286-9339593_ITM
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: December-19-07 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Dimensions
Off center being an annoyance is an interesting idea... but I've been flying
behind an asymmetrical, off center steam gauge panel for awhile. Don't even
think about it. Not sure an EFIS changes that. Inquiring minds want to
know.
Symmetry is a beautiful thing - but it occurs to me that it's not as simple
as a perfectly centered screen or array of gauges. There's a functional
symmetry and a perceived symmetry and not sure what else.
The best looking panels seem to have the panels stacked in front of the
pilot or split between pilot and copilot. But having to dip my head to see
the bottom panel will annoy me to no end when in the clouds.
I just spent the day pasting instrument pics to my panel. Very interesting.
Bill Watson
40605
Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
Over the past couple of weeks I have been playing with panel layouts. What I
don't know is what the exact center of vision is offset from the center of
the RV10 stock panel. I have a pretty good idea of where it is but was
wondering if anyone has an exact measurement.
I would hate to have my EFIS off center as it would annoy me to no end every
time I flew.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers & Merry Christmas to all
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Winter Flying |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24792
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Winter Flying
Couldn't find it. Where on VAF did you post it?
-Jim
In a message dated 12/19/2007 2:44:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes:
Just posted on VAF data from recent flight to SteinAir for those
requesting. Pics show Dynon Lean Mode and all cylinders LOP on O-540.
DEAN
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
________________________________
See AOL's top rated recipes
<http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004> and
easy ways to stay in shape
<http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument Panel Dimensions |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Les,
I also decided that I wanted the EFIS centered in front of the pilot
seat. Like was suggested earlier, I have a second screen just to the
right of that and a third centered on the right side front seat. This
makes the radio stack a natural fit immediately right of the center
panel rib. This sort of layout will likely require that you trim &
reinforce the outboard panel rib(s) for clearance of the screen(s).
I also started out with Panel Planner and it was helpful. I was however
disappointed to find out that the dimensional info isn't quite right for
the RV-10 panel. I iterated a couple of times with the folks to try to
get it right but in the end used that only as a visual guide and
manually measured/cut my panel. They may have updated the panel
definition by now - that was last spring.
Bob #40105
(getting close...)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Dimensions
Bill
I have been playing with layouts, online, for a couple of weeks. What
you select as an EFIS setup seems to drive the placement everything
else. With the smaller GRT screens, you could have two independent efis
screens side by side with the primary display directly in front and the
second to the right displaying a moving map. That drives everything else
to the right. The beauty of this is that it would allow the second efis
to be used as a backup if the primary screen had a brain fart.
With the larger AFS Efis screens, it seems that the only reasonable
layout is to have one centered in front of the pilot and one in front of
the co-pilot. That would be fine if both seats had pilots. Otherwise, in
the event of a failure on the pilot's side, it would seem that using the
co-pilots' screen as a backup would be problematic.
Decisions, decisions.....
I just pickup up a copy of the Panel Planner software to help my panel
design process. Embedded in the software is an article from Kitplane
Magazine from 1999. I found the same article online (unfortunately
without the pictures) but it still has a few pearls. I especially took
note of the issues around positioning of switches. The following link
will get you to the article.
http://www.accessmylibrary.com/coms2/summary_0286-9339593_ITM
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: December-19-07 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Dimensions
Off center being an annoyance is an interesting idea... but I've been
flying behind an asymmetrical, off center steam gauge panel for awhile.
Don't even think about it. Not sure an EFIS changes that. Inquiring
minds want to know.
Symmetry is a beautiful thing - but it occurs to me that it's not as
simple as a perfectly centered screen or array of gauges. There's a
functional symmetry and a perceived symmetry and not sure what else.
The best looking panels seem to have the panels stacked in front of the
pilot or split between pilot and copilot. But having to dip my head to
see the bottom panel will annoy me to no end when in the clouds.
I just spent the day pasting instrument pics to my panel. Very
interesting.
Bill Watson
40605
Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
Over the past couple of weeks I have been playing with panel layouts.
What I don't know is what the exact center of vision is offset from the
center of the RV10 stock panel. I have a pretty good idea of where it is
but was wondering if anyone has an exact measurement.
I would hate to have my EFIS off center as it would annoy me to no end
every time I flew.
Inquiring minds need to know...
Cheers & Merry Christmas to all
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Winter Flying |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dean,
Thanks for the post. Can you please explain the EGT
readout on your DYNON? Especially the last readout (1,1,2,3,4,8)
I was not aware the D-100 displayed EMS data. Is that
part of the D-100 or is it just presenting data collected from your
D-120? Regardless, VERY cool! We are so lucky to have these avionics
choices vs. just a few short years ago. And I am glad I am not flying in
a 35 year old Cessna with it's equally old cracked plastic covered panel
and 126 kt cruise.
Thanks,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1(at)juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Winter Flying
Just posted on VAF data from recent flight to SteinAir for those
requesting. Pics show Dynon Lean Mode and all cylinders LOP on O-540.
DEAN
_____________________________________________________________
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your family tree!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Very easy solution. Keep building while your wonderful wife who has loved y
ou tremendously and who will continue to love you, shows you her love again
by getting her pilot's license. Every pilot needs a good co pilot, I'll le
ave the decision of who gets to play which role up to you.
Keep pluggin away, great to hear it is not life threatening!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
John G.> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:17:49 -0700> From: deemsdavis(at)cox.net> T
o: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Merry Christmas> > --> RV10
-List message posted by: Deems Davis > > Over the past
2 1/2 years this list has grown to become my aviation > family, and so it's
only fitting that I pause and THANK YOU all for the > help and support I'v
e received from you and to wish you a MERRY > CHRISTMAS and HAPPY NEW YEAR>
> Deems Davis #406> > > warning what follows is off topic.> > PS. Some hav
e noticed the the daily updates to my website haven't been > occurring. I'm
receiving some off-line e-mail queries about why, so I > thought I'd post
here to save some time.> > Last Wed. I experienced what the FAA calls 'a di
squalifying event'. The > medical term is Transient Global Amnesia (TGA). I
n lay terms I > permanently 'lost' from 9am to 3pm of that day. Judy took m
e to the > emergency room where they did their diagnostics. Her description
of the > events that transpired during the episode are comical in retrospe
ct, but > I assure you there was nothing funny about it at the time. I have
a > small recognition of the onset of the episode, and what I recall was >
terrifying. Once the episode passed, and memory, and the ability to form >
new memory returned, my biggest concern once I learned this was not a > li
fe-threatening event was my future wrt to aviation, the RV-10 > community a
nd my project. I spent a very sleepless night in the hospital > during whic
h I resigned myself to selling the project and retiring from > aviation as
I suspected that the FAA would not look favorably on the > experience. Need
less to say, having had this dream/ambition for so long > and having postpo
ned it during the family/career years, and to be within > weeks of realizin
g it, I've been a little bummed these past few days.> > The good news is th
at TGA, while largely enigmatic to the medical > community, as to cause, ap
pears to be completely benign, with no > residual health effects or implica
tions, and the likelihood of > recurrence for me is only marginally greater
than the general > population. When I was released Thurs. the 1st thing I
did once at home > was to begin my own research courtesy of Google, and the
associated > medical & FAA databases. I've read numerous medical papers/st
udies > published on the syndrome, learned about as much as a layman can. A
nd > despite the initial anxiety that this produced, I'm becoming more and
> more convinced of the favorable prognosis.> > After taking a couple of da
ys to 'chill out' and smell the roses, I have > begun to wrestle with the p
ersonal decision regarding my aviation > related future. I won't bother you
with the decision process but, during > my research of FAA Flight Surgeon
advisory letters, I've learned that it > may be possible with a special iss
uance medical to continue my romance > with aviation, the downside is that
the FAA wants to wait 1 year as a > precaution to ensure that the episode i
s not masking any other > neurological anomalies. I've confirmed all of thi
s the other day during > a consultation with my AME, Dr. Farrod (who is exc
lusively dedicated to > aviation medicine). I'll begin collecting the data
from the hospital > within a week or two so as to have it ready, when / if
special issuance > time comes around. So for now, I'm grounded. As of the w
riting of this > note, I'm inclined to continue and somehow find a way to s
tretch 1-2 > months of remaining work into 12 and not go crazy each time I
read/hear > about one of the expected 100 completion's I expect we'll see n
ext year. > So for the time being, the updates may be slower to non-existen
t. If > they resume, Their frequency will likely be reduced.> > I debated o
n whether to put this note out to the 'list' but I didn't > want to 'disapp
ear' and become the next James McClow and the subject of > John Cox whimsic
al posts! Please rest assured, that I am physically and > mentally OK, ther
e are no restrictions on any of my activities (other > than piloting) and t
here is no treatment required or necessary.> > > If I decide to continue pe
rhaps I'd use some of next year to help > organize and work on an RV-10 Pil
oting and Safety program. The content > of such a program would obviously r
equire considerable input from the > community.> > > Deems #406> > 'Now whe
==============> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe and Antenna Wire in Same Conduit |
Has anyone run their Strobe wire and Antenna wire in the same wing
conduit? Any interference or other problems? My Electronics guru says
there should be none since all wires are shielded. Anyone?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe and Antenna Wire in Same Conduit |
The strobe wire and nav antenna coax are in the same bundle on the way out
to the wingtip on my RV-10. If I remember right, I believe I can hear the
faintest tick-tick-tick from the strobes when listening to NAV audio. It's hardly
noticeable.
-Jim
N312JE
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
In a message dated 12/20/2007 12:12:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
chuck(at)chuckdirect.com writes:
Has anyone run their Strobe wire and Antenna wire in the same wing conduit?
Any interference or other problems? My Electronics guru says there should
be none since all wires are shielded. Anyone?
Chuck
_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Console above tunnel |
>> And what outside aerobatic maneuver would you be trying to accomplish???
:-\ <<
Landing in a gusty crosswind, recovering from wake turbulence, avoiding a
mid-air, dealing with a bird strike...<8-O
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Deems;
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I just cant wait to hear about all
the neat gizmos and stuff you will be adding to your plane this year.
(what was that gross wt limitation again?)
To everybody else on the list. Merry xmas and happy new year.
Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
| Subject: | Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
Thanks all for the suggestions ...
I happen to have a big can of WD-40 lying around - it seems to work a treat
!!
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
Joe Zac suggested WD-40 sometime back. Works great.
Anh
N591VU-115hrs
In the middile of Condition Inspection
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>
>
> Windex contains ammonia, which is bad for aircraft and plexi. IIRC 409
> also is corrosive.
>
> On Dec 18, 2007 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>> What about good old Windex or 409? I do not know if either of these
>> would
>> hurt AL however. They are both good, mild grease cutters.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> 40496
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>> To:
>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:35 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>>
>>
>> >
>> > (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>> >
>> > Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
>> > heard
>> > of
>> > the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff. Simple
>> > Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such a
>> > range
>> > of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>> >
>> > Gerry
>> > http://www.n747wg.com
>> > (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Glad to hear you are OK. I'll whack John Cox if he gets out of line. I am
sure there are a ton of volunteers to help with the flyoff time while you
are grounded!
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Merry Christmas
Over the past 2 1/2 years this list has grown to become my aviation
family, and so it's only fitting that I pause and THANK YOU all for the
help and support I've received from you and to wish you a MERRY
CHRISTMAS and HAPPY NEW YEAR
Deems Davis #406
warning what follows is off topic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Whew, I'd like to forget the first wife! Hopefully I will have learned before
I get to the second wife:-)
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
> If you learn how to start such an episode, let me know. There are a few days
of my memory I wouldn't mind deleting from my files (the day I married my second
wife, for example...).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
OK dumb question with headset jacks.....Headphone and mic jacks have the
same number of terminals but one has a larger hole than the other. So which
one is Mic and headphone
regards Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
The smaller one is the mic. The outer is ground, the "tip" is the PTT and the
"ring" is mic audio.
The larger one is the earphone. The outer is ground, the "tip" is earphone audio
left, the "ring" is earphone audio right.
Most don't wire the "tip" on the microphone jack, but the benefit of wiring it
is that that in a pinch, you can connect a regular hand mic with a PTT into the
jack and it will work.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
>
>
> OK dumb question with headset jacks.....Headphone and mic jacks have the
> same number of terminals but one has a larger hole than the other. So which
> one is Mic and headphone
>
> regards Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset jacks |
The bigger one is for the headphones. 1/4" diameter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 6:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Headset jacks
>
>
>
> OK dumb question with headset jacks.....Headphone and mic jacks have the
> same number of terminals but one has a larger hole than the other. So
> which one is Mic and headphone
>
> regards Chris
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Amber Wilson <jpiamber(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset jacks |
The larger is for the Headphones quarter inch if I recall correctly.
JP Instruments
Amber Wilson
FAA STC Administrator
JPIAmber(at)yahoo.com
800-945-4574 X204
----- Original Message ----
From: Chris and Susie McGough <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 3:02:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Headset jacks
OK dumb question with headset jacks.....Headphone and mic jacks have the
same number of terminals but one has a larger hole than the other. So which
one is Mic and headphone
regards Chris
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe and Antenna Wire in Same Conduit |
No interference with my setup, in fact (oddly enough) the slight background
hum decreases when I turn the strobes on!
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 11:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe and Antenna Wire in Same Conduit
Has anyone run their Strobe wire and Antenna wire in the same wing conduit?
Any interference or other problems? My Electronics guru says there should
be none since all wires are shielded. Anyone?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "RV10 4JF" <ETskypilot(at)aol.com> |
I have been flying with an XRX for about 1 1/2 years now. At first it was with
the stand alone unit and for the past 6 months with the Garmin interface. I placed
my unit on the glare shield and discovered that it was difficult for me to
see the screen due to ambient light. I found that a white sheet of paper in
front of the screen reflected the light and made the screen readable. So I cut
a sheet of plastic to fit under the unit and extend 1-2" in front of the screen.
I covered the extension with white label paper and was able to see the screen
without a problem. On the stand alone unit you have to look at the screen
periodically to see if traffic is displayed. It only warns you when traffic gets
within the two warning parameters..
Now with the Garmin interface it is much better. The screen just says Garmin and
traffic is displayed on my GPS 396. Traffic is displayed on the map page according
to your setup. When traffic gets within the warning parameters you get
a pop up window with the warning. Overall, this has been a good investment. I
have seen traffic that I would have missed without it. Still, I get warnings
where I do not see the traffic. It has not been false echos as this has occurred
with ATC advisories and map display and still I never see the traffic. So,
this unit is another good resource for collision avoidance. Traffic in the pattern
is easier to pick up.
JF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153423#153423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas forgetting our first wives |
Hard to forget my wife... I think of her everyday, I loved her than and I
love her now. If it wasn't for her I wouldn't be building the RV-10 today.
Ya she's a keeper ;-)
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Merry Christmas
>
> Whew, I'd like to forget the first wife! Hopefully I will have learned
> before I get to the second wife:-)
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>> If you learn how to start such an episode, let me know. There are a few
>> days of my memory I wouldn't mind deleting from my files (the day I
>> married my second wife, for example...).
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
Deems,
Wish you and your family the best during the Chrismas Holiday. I hope
you continue on and get that RV10 flying. I may be flying to Mesa early
next week..........if you feel up to it would you wanna go for a ride a
round AZ in 805HL?
God Bless,
DEAN
_____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Total Novice here..... I'm building an RV-10 with dual Lightspeed ignition. Electronics
are as follows; SL40 Radio, GTX327 Transponder, 496 GPS, PS3000 audio
panel, and the Advanced Flight Systems 3500 efis.
My question are; Has anyone set up the rpm wiring between the Lightspeed and
the efis?
Prior to finalizing my connections, I wanted to double check my wiring pin numbers
for the wires which interconnect between equipment.... ie. 496 to efis,
or sl40 to audio panel, etc
Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks, Don McDonald N14XG
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
I believe Zaon is working on an ADS-B module for their next product which is a
built in system. They were showing it in OSH. Don't recall the price though.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Lack of viable competition creates a stranglehold for most competitors
and hence the customer. More suppliers, constant demand - better
pricing. The GDL-90 is made in Salem, Oregon.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based
Garmin" have a "stranglehold?"
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
matter and those who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
> are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
> Washington, DC.
>
> Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
> "Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
> system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a
time.
> Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
> traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers
are
> too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
> (altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
>
> Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
> yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you
need
> an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
>
> Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
>
> cjay
>
>
> apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
> in class E.
> >
> > On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
> controlled
> > > airspace.
> > >
> > >
> > > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
> Bravo....
> > >
> > > P
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
> winter.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
As a fellow traveler who just turned 60, all us geezers fear what has happened
to you or worse.
Though I do not know you personally, I relish seeing your posts. Please keep up
the faith and your progress.
I will say a special prayer for a healthy 2008 for you and your family. We all
need goals in life, I think that a realistic one for you is to get your a/c in
the air and fly a lot of dual in 2008 and plan to go solo on a specific date
in early 2009 (maybe 2/1/09).
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153448#153448
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
| From: | "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com> |
Deems - others have said it better than we can, but nonetheless, hang in there!
We enjoyed meeting you at Oshkosh this summer, and continue to enjoy your posts.
Keep 'em coming while you polish your -10.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All!
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153467#153467
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PRINCO" <princo(at)tin.it> |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
Maerry Christmas and Happy new Year to all of you.
I am from Italy building one of the first or the first RV10 in Italy
Claudio Masci
(I-BIRO Reserved)
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Per conto di Bill Reining
Inviato: venerd 21 dicembre 2007 8.12
A: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Oggetto: RV10-List: Re: Merry Christmas
Deems - others have said it better than we can, but nonetheless, hang in
there! We enjoyed meeting you at Oshkosh this summer, and continue to enjoy
your posts. Keep 'em coming while you polish your -10.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All!
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153467#153467
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
Deems don't worry about stretching 1-2 months out to a year. When I
thought I was a month away from being finished with my RV-10 project I
found that I still had more than three months of almost full time work
to get it to DAR inspection.
In addition, you can also use another pilot to do the fly off hours and
still be involved with the daily cowl removal and adjustments that are
needed.
I had another pilot listed on my insurance for the flyoff period and the
insurance company didn't charge anything extra. My dream was for the
two of use to get the flyoff done sooner so that I could fly to OSH2006.
After getting my DAR approval I knew there was no way I was going to
fly to OSH2006 unless I falsified my flyoff time so as it turned out I
ended up doing all the flyoff time myself over a little more than a
month.
Even 17 months after the first flight there are still things that I am
changing, many of which would have already been done if I had been
grounded from flying.
During my build, I had three major surgeries over a four month period
and it was really hard to take the time off building to get well but man
has the flying of N710RV been worth it.
Merry Christmas
Russ Daves
N710RV - #40044
N65RV - RV-6A Sold
N742PZ - RV-8 co-builder
N____RV - RV-7 just starting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | The Pity Party has been cancelled! |
The Pity Party has been canceled: :-D
Construction on N519PJ to recommence Jan 2, 2008
Website updates to follow thereafter.
Seriously,
Once again this 'family' has proved it's value. I CAN"T BEGIN TO TELL
ALL OF YOU JUST HOW IMPORTANT YOUR WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT AND SUPPORT
WERE / ARE TO ME. I've read and reread them all. I'm overwhelmed with
the responses received both on and off line, the support, advice,
suggestions and sharing of your own stories and experiences were JUST
EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED. And have helped me to get around the corner. I'm
so thankful, and a little embarrassed to have bent everyones ear with
what in the eternal scheme of things is really a wart.
Jack - Sorry can't help, throughout it all Judy was, is and always will
be my one and only and my anchor.
Tim - No offense taken - currently accepting suggestions for change
order # 3982
Bob C. - I'll gladly do your fiberglass work. I guarantee you won't like
the price.
Ben - Give John C. a whack, just for the heck of it!
John C. - Duck if you see Ben coming!
Paul G. - No more whining about a bad back, get those Rudder pedals
fabbed (I'm putting them back on the list, change order # 3981 !)
Ed H. - You win! ...... but my plane will be faster than yours.........
Neil - I'm telling Sarah about the blond jokes
David - Thanks for the link to the local test pilot
Dean - You Becha! - Does a bear poop in the woods!
Matt - Sorry about the wasted bandwidth
Patrick - My source for transparidium has dried up, but I've got an
idea that involves putting sneeze pins on the condoleators. I expect a 5
kt gain!
To everyone - My heartfelt THANKS !
Deems #406
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpiamber(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Yahoo! Auto Response |
JPI will be closed to observe Christmas
December 22ND and will return on December 27TH.
JPI will be closed to observe the New Year Holiday
December 29TH and will return on January 2ND.
The holiday season offers us a special opportunity to extend our personal thanks
to our friends, and our very best wishes for the future.
And so it is that we now gather together and wish to you a very Merry Christmas
and a Happy New Year. We consider you a good friend and extend our wishes for
good health and good cheer.
It is people like you who make being in business such a pleasure all year long.
Our business is a source of pride to us, and with customers like you, we find
going to work each day a rewarding experience.
To our friends all over the world, JP Instruments
extends to you and your loved ones our best wishes for a
Vrolijke Kersttmis Sarbatori Felicite
Joyeux Noel Tin Hao Nian
Froeliche Weihnachten Felice Natale
Kinga Shinnen Glad Julen
Ichok Yilara Boas Festas
Chrustovjna Wesloych Swiat
Glaedelig Jul Veselele Vanoche
Felice Pascuas Sretan Bozic
Boldog Karacsonyi Unnepeket Merry Christmas
and a Happy New Year!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: The Pity Party has been cancelled! |
Deems
Now that you are accepting change orders, please let me add to your scope growth.
The link below is to a very interesting device that I came across yesterday. It is an "air slicer" and can be found at: http://www.periheliondesign.com/moreproducts.htm
So what we need is a way to use this so we can mix variable amounts of warm / cold
air to get heater air of a specific teperature.
In the unlikely event you feel the need to hold a "Pity Party", I suggest you keep
in mind the old latin quotation and act accordingly: Quis Dolor Cui Dolium
Cheers & Merry Christmas
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Date: Friday, December 21, 2007 3:30 pm
Subject: RV10-List: The Pity Party has been cancelled!
>
>
> The Pity Party has been canceled: :-D
>
> Construction on N519PJ to recommence Jan 2, 2008
>
> Website updates to follow thereafter.
>
>
> Seriously,
>
> Once again this 'family' has proved it's value. I CAN"T BEGIN TO
> TELL
> ALL OF YOU JUST HOW IMPORTANT YOUR WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT AND
> SUPPORT
> WERE / ARE TO ME. I've read and reread them all. I'm overwhelmed
> with
> the responses received both on and off line, the support,
> advice,
> suggestions and sharing of your own stories and experiences were
> JUST
> EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED. And have helped me to get around the
> corner. I'm
> so thankful, and a little embarrassed to have bent everyones ear
> with
> what in the eternal scheme of things is really a wart.
>
> Jack - Sorry can't help, throughout it all Judy was, is and
> always will
> be my one and only and my anchor.
> Tim - No offense taken - currently accepting suggestions for
> change
> order # 3982
> Bob C. - I'll gladly do your fiberglass work. I guarantee you
> won't like
> the price.
> Ben - Give John C. a whack, just for the heck of it!
> John C. - Duck if you see Ben coming!
> Paul G. - No more whining about a bad back, get those Rudder
> pedals
> fabbed (I'm putting them back on the list, change order # 3981 !)
> Ed H. - You win! ...... but my plane will be faster than
> yours.........Neil - I'm telling Sarah about the blond jokes
> David - Thanks for the link to the local test pilot
> Dean - You Becha! - Does a bear poop in the woods!
> Matt - Sorry about the wasted bandwidth
> Patrick - My source for transparidium has dried up, but
> I've got an
> idea that involves putting sneeze pins on the condoleators. I
> expect a 5
> kt gain!
>
> To everyone - My heartfelt THANKS !
>
> Deems #406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lists This Month --
> (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> Click on
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
David,
Please contact me at your convenience.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Blank" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone - F1010a Question |
I am working on the tail cone... and i am not sure if i cut the F1010A angle
aluminum the right way. Or maybe i should say, i know i cut the tapered end
short..
Does anyone have picture of the finished part or the part in place???
Thanks - Steve
--
Stephen G. Blank, DDS RV-10 #40449
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 >>> Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone - F1010a Question |
I went kind of picture happy when doing the tailcone. I took lots of
pictures of all those oddball tail pieces from every angle.
Here is a close up of F1010A that should help:
http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=1823
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen Blank
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone - F1010a Question
I am working on the tail cone... and i am not sure if i cut the F1010A angle
aluminum the right way. Or maybe i should say, i know i cut the tapered end
short..
Does anyone have picture of the finished part or the part in place???
Thanks - Steve
--
Stephen G. Blank, DDS RV-10 #40449
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 >>> Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Instructions |
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy of the
instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I could not
find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting bracket
instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that has the
wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the standpoint
of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin? The
bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot Instructions |
On my 6A, I put it on the outboard bay of the access panel. Then I
moved my tie-down mount one bay outboard so they wouldn't cross paths.
The instructions didn't do anything for me on the cutout either. I used
the bracket plate as a template after I match drilled the holes - then
opened it up with a grinder bit.
The wiring instructions were part of the pitot tube itself - I've got
mine at the hangar (will try to remember) - but IIRC it didn't tell you
which was + or -. I just made a decision and wired it up - neither pin
was grounded. Mine works fine.
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick ONeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy
of the instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I
could not find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting
bracket instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that
has the wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the
standpoint of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin?
The bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that
step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Instructions |
Patrick,
I'll borrow a quote from John Cox for you on this "Make sure you take off
your builder hat and put on your repairman/serviceman hat.".
Although not technically that difficult to install think about maintaining
it after installation. I did not think about install or location when I cut
the holes for my bracket which I ended up putting it in the stock Van's
pitot location. It worked out ok but I had several technical hurdles to
overcome.
The copper tube coming out of the pitot tube itself came straight up into
the aileron torque tube requiring a healthy bend to maintain clearance while
the tube moved fore and aft. The mounting locations for the circuit board
in this location are sub optimal for ease of wire installation and
maintenance due to the aileron pushrod and bellcrank parts. Think about
threading the wires up through the pitot tube hole and guiding them into
their install location on the circuit board and then tightening the
miniature screws. You also have to secure the aluminum pitot line to the
copper line through an inspection hole after installing the bottom wing
skins.
Pictures of my installation can be found here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=wings|pitot
I ended up making short length wires and connectors that I could attach to
the circuit board prior to closing up the wing. I used a locking 2 wire
molex plug for the power wires and dean's plug for the thermistor wires. My
thoughts were to make the actual installation of the tube into the finished
wing easier. One thing to think about too is what happens to moisture that
may accumulate on the wires? The circuit board should be on the top side of
the wing so all wire runs coming out of the unprotected holes are not
subject to water droplets running down the wires and into their attach
points. I am considering encasing the wires in silicone but have not yet
done that.
If anyone has more questions or thinks I f'd something up please let me
know!
-Ben Westfall
#40579
N109LB (reserved)
PDX
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy of the
instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I could not
find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting bracket
instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that has the
wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the standpoint
of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin? The
bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | XRX PCAS initial impressions |
I have flown a couple of flights with both the MRX and XRX sitting adjacent
on the panel. Some observations: Traffic is certainly easier to spot given
the relative bearing. In the mountains, overflying Boeings strobed the
transponder and provided indications of traffic. I primarily use screen B on
the unit; it provides a God's eye view of top three threats and detail info
on the top threat. The MRX and XRX have slightly different threat
algorithms. Aircraft aft of my aircraft seem to given less weight in the
threat analysis software in the XRX.
Two caveats: Be sure and calibrate the magnetometer as the screen B display
will be unintelligible Also calibration can be done in flight setting the
autopilot on a 000 GPS track in smooth air.
Wait until they improve the connection cable. I found that the first XRX
unit they sent would shut off automatically intermittently. Although not
conclusive at this point I believe that the voltage drop on their very small
power cable is causing the power problems. They use the same power cable as
the MRX which requires 20-25% of the power of the XRX. Although I have not
determined the wire size, the pin size for the connector is .7mm (.027
inch). Although the specs say that the XRX will run on any voltage from
10-40 VDC; the reality is that it won't run on a 12VDC battery very
reliably. Things go downhill rapidly if the source battery supplies 11-12
VDC to the cigarette lighter adapter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need to
replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I reread
the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD 175hours
711
KT reserved
**************************************
See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
For those of us with older lightspeeds Klaus wants them returned for internal
updates as well as a provision for cooling tubes.I should have put those
boxes where they were easier to get to.
**************************************
See
AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
What's the definition of an "older Lightspeed"? I've had my Plasma 111 goi
ng on three years.
Thanks
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
170 hours
From: PILOTDDS(at)aol.comDate: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:22:13 -0500Subject: Re: RV1
0-List: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box?To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
For those of us with older lightspeeds Klaus wants them returned for intern
al updates as well as a provision for cooling tubes.I should have put those
boxes where they were easier to get to.***********************************
***See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID
=aoltop00030000000004)
_________________________________________________________________
Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_1220
07
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
If it didnt come with a provision for a cooling tube you are effected.Three
years is about the timeline, although Klaus was not specific to the date.
**************************************
See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one. Your
first post you said this:
"I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions of
the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worried
that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat on
the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin."
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be able
to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap (1/32"
at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the CLECO'd
bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet your
way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not bounce
from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps push
any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed together
tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes on
each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins). It
really didn't take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less than a
64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don't know what to tell you.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD
175hours
711
KT reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Blank" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone - F1010a Question |
Patrick,
Thanks... Now i know i goofed up. I read the diagram to show the
vertical piece as having a notch, and the top piece angeled to match the
fues sides..... your viesw make this seem simple and it does not seem
critical at the ends, but only where the holes are punched. The ends only
need to allow the skins to fit by, is that right???? Boy did i confuse my
self on a simple part... - Steve
On Dec 22, 2007 7:51 AM, Patrick ONeill wrote:
> I went kind of picture happy when doing the tailcone. I took lots of
> pictures of all those oddball tail pieces from every angle.
>
>
> Here is a close up of F1010A that should help:
>
>
> http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=1823
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Patrick #40715 / N690CT
>
> Stephen G. Blank, DDS #40499
> 184 NW Central Park Plaza
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34986
>
> 772-475-5556 >>> Cell
> 772-878-7347 Office
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz pitot instructions |
I used the mount for a template and drilled and traced for the hole
after clecoing it over the skin. Then I used my step drill to enlarge
the mount hole. Then trimmed the hole to the line with my dremel. I
mounted the thing in the bay just outboard from the aileron inspection
cover. The circuit board is mounted to the inspection cover itself.
Makes the wire connections easy to get at.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning reveised/revisted. |
Sorry I am not able to hit the reply bottom as something is seriously wrong
with my computer.
As for the loose skin/oil canning areas, I'll bet it is the square just aft
of the main spar, one outboard of the outer most access panel and then the
square, aft of the main spar, 2nd inboard of the last outboard access pane
l.
As for when I started this post, my skins on my first wing(Left one) were n
ot tight in several locations just aft of the main spar. I had not complete
ly rivetted the entire bottom skin in place and had only completed step 11.
I opted to remove the rivets from the main spar all the way aft to the, bu
t not including the J channel. Again all my skins were tight aft of the J c
hannel. I then re revitted the forward section doing the hopscotch method,
never moving forward until all rivets in the horizontal row were completed.
I had also trimmed the edge the joins with the LE skin. The results this s
econd time were better, but I still have some oil canning in the above two
bays, with the bottom skin completely closed up....these correspond to the
two bays where the ribs naturally lean into each other, or should I say pul
l toward one another.
This weekend I completed the right wing up to step 11, I am waiting on my A
OA sub kit and can't finish right now. Again see other passed post for what
I am doing as per rib order, working down and outward and inward at the sa
me time. I will post my result after the wing is closed. So far the right w
ing skin is very tight aft of the J channel, but so was the left one.
The difference so far on this second wing, I haven't made one ding yet XXXX
X crossed fingers. The 8 inch rivet set extension from Avery is a must arou
nd those flap brackets and buy another flush set with the rubber and put it
on the disk sander and make a flat spot on one side so the set can get up
to the rivet which is so close to the flap bracket.
Will let you know how second one comes out once completed.
JOhn G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I recently installed my Gretz mount and thought I would share an issue
with the list. The reinforcement plate that is supplied with the mount ,
the one with the joggle that goes on top of the spar flange, has a
joggle of .045 which is correct for the smaller RVs, but not the 10. The
flange on the 10 is .065. I contacted Gretz and he said he was aware of
the issue, and possibly the next batch run will be made with the larger
joggle (which would be easy to shim for the other RVs). Meanwhile he
suggested that I could put the plate in a vise and beat on it to fit. I
tried that and ended up with something that I didn't think belonged on
my airplane. So the fix was to make a new plate out of .065 material,
and flush rivet a strip of material to the leading edge, that would go
on top of the flange, and allow the plate to sit perfectly flat against
the skin.
I installed the mount on the inboard side of the outboard rib of the
second bay from the tip of the wing. This allows for access with the tip
removed, and is far enough from the tip that there is clean air, and
it's clear of the tie down ring. Contact me offline if you need
pictures.
I installed the new Dynon heated pitot / AOA probe, which is fabricated
from nickel and it looks like a real quality unit. I plan on at least
one Dynon box, which will give me visual and aural AOA / stall warning.
The probe also is temperature controlled for low current draw, and has
fault annunciation on a Dynon box, or a stand alone LED if not using a
Dynon box. My experience with the Dynon system I have in the RV8
couldn't be better. The system is rock solid, and loaded with features.
Chris Hukill
shaving bottom wing skins to fit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far as the oil
canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 that have cann
ing.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few days ago, bu
t i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the rework of the fi
rst wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay aft of the spar,
just outside of the outer most access panel and then again oil canning on t
he second bay inboard of the outer most access panel. Interestingly, I beli
eve I removed as much material as I could have at that seam and the seam cl
osed up so tight a hair would not even be able to get in it. The dimpled ho
les started to not line up. Maybe every hole should not be clecoed and the
riveting should be every other hole when working forward????? Perhaps if ev
ery hole is clecoed and every hole rivetted in in series it wraps the skin
on too tight of a smaller arc and then it means the gap at the LE will be t
oo tight or non existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded causing them to b
ow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I still think this is my
problem as on the second wing I am trying every combination with the cleco
es. The aft portion of the ribs have been rivetted (completing step 11)and
the bays are tight as a drum. Despite what order I do the forward portion o
f the ribs with the clecoes, the skin in the same bays as on the other wing
still remain looser than the other bays. The only thing i can attribute th
is to is the ribs bowing inward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing towa
rd one another and the neighbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bo
wing in the same direction instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before doing the bott
om skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole process seem like a n
o brainer, but that is anything but what I am finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating part o
f the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it lines up
flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to get it righ
t.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and now all
the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding rivets, I know
so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J channel, the cleco
es did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no oil can
ning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one. Your
first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions
of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worri
ed that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat
on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin
.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be abl
e to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap (1/3
2=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the CLECO
=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet
your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not bou
nce from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps p
ush any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed togethe
r tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes on e
ach bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins).
It really didn=92t take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less than
a 64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.comSent: Saturday, December 22, 200
7 3:18 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: oil canning revisit
ed
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD
175hours
711 KT reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
two questions?
-Do you have QB wings or SB wings
On my SB the ribs bow as well and as far as the clecoing everything on
(as I have not riveted yet) everything looks tight
If QB- call Van's and ask what's up..
-Are you using the "Oops rivets" second time around?
If not order some since it sounds like you are in need of them.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far as the
oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 that
have canning.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few days
ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the rework
of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay aft
of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and then again
oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most access panel.
Interestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I could have at
that seam and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not even be able
to get in it. The dimpled holes started to not line up. Maybe every hole
should not be clecoed and the riveting should be every other hole when
working forward????? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed and every hole
rivetted in in series it wraps the skin on too tight of a smaller arc
and then it means the gap at the LE will be too tight or non
existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded causing them
to bow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I still think
this is my problem as on the second wing I am trying every combination
with the clecoes. The aft portion of the ribs have been rivetted
(completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a drum. Despite what order
I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes, the skin in the
same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than the other bays.
The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing inward on
these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the neighbor
next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same direction
instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before doing the
bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole process seem
like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating
part of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it
lines up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to
get it right.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and
now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding
rivets, I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J
channel, the clecoes did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no
oil canning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one.
Your first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft
portions of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as
I was worried that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin
from laying flat on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the
forward(L.E.) skin.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up
one rivet at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you
should be able to cleco everything in its final place. There should be
a small gap (1/32=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank
skins and the CLECO=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely
closes up when you rivet your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole
at a time). I would not bounce from one rib to the next just complete
one rib at a time. This helps push any excess out towards the ends. If
the skin edges are pressed together tightly you did not remove enough
material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10
minutes on each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of
material from the skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from
stamping out the skins). It really didn=92t take that long. Attached
is a picture of the gap after riveting between the bottom skin and the
gas tank. The space is less than a 64th I would say pretty much all the
way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing
skin oil canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting
or do I need to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with
unacceptably loose skin.I reread the thread and was unclear about others
succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD 175hours
711 KT reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
I have QB wings and everything on the top side is tight and all the skins o
n the bottom side inboard, which they did, are tight.
As for Opps rivets, the holes are not that large to use them, just the clec
oes don't grip well, the holes are slightly enlarged and with any bowing, t
he cleoceos come out with any rivetting.
Looks and feel are two different things. Push the bays in in the center and
see what happpens?
JOhn G.
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:48:40 -0800From: rv10builder(at)verizon.netSubject:
Re: RV10-List: oil canning revisitedTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
two questions?
-Do you have QB wings or SB wings
On my SB the ribs bow as well and as far as the clecoing everything on (as
I have not riveted yet) everything looks tight
If QB- call Van's and ask what's up..
-Are you using the "Oops rivets" second time around?
If not order some since it sounds like you are in need of them.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim, I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as fa
r as the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 t
hat have canning. Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested
a few days ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on th
e rework of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay
aft of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and then agai
n oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most access panel. Int
erestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I could have at that se
am and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not even be able to get in
it. The dimpled holes started to not line up. Maybe every hole should not b
e clecoed and the riveting should be every other hole when working forward?
???? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed and every hole rivetted in in series
it wraps the skin on too tight of a smaller arc and then it means the gap a
t the LE will be too tight or non existent????? Ben, do you remember whethe
r your ribs were spring loaded causing them to bow in a direction opposite
their flange direction. I still think this is my problem as on the second w
ing I am trying every combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the
ribs have been rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a dru
m. Despite what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes
, the skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than t
he other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing in
ward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the neig
hbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same direction
instead of the opposite. There could be something unique to the way my wing
is before doing the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the wh
ole process seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am find
ing. Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating p
art of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it lin
es up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to get it
right. Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and
now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding rivets,
I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J channel, t
he clecoes did't hold too well. Good Grief Charlie Brown. All I want from S
anta is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no oil canning in any of th
e bays. I promise I have been a good boy!!!! John G.
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one. Your
first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions
of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worri
ed that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat
on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin
.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be abl
e to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap (1/3
2=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the CLECO
=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet
your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not bou
nce from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps p
ush any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed togethe
r tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes on e
ach bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins).
It really didn=92t take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less than
a 64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.comSent: Saturday, December 22, 200
7 3:18 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: oil canning revisit
ed
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD
175hours
711 KT reserved
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
John,
Most of my ribs had a small amount of preload to them. I had to move
them
maybe =BC inch in either direction to get the holes lined up at the
J-channel
(the one just forward of or just aft). I would bet your combination of
ribs
and bottom skins had just enough variance that riveting per plans or the
way
you did it would have caused the same result.
I don=92t have any advice that would not be wild ass guesses but here
are a
couple anyway=85
1) Call Van=92s and talk to them
2) Maybe add some shim material between the ribs and skins??? (ask
Van=92s).
3) Figure a way to =93shrink=94 the excess skin. Add a jchannel
or some
similar support??? (ask Van=92s).
4) How severe is the oil canning? Possibly live with it?
I would definitely get some oops rivets and drill the holes that are the
worst offenders to #30.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far as the
oil
canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 that have
canning.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few days ago,
but
i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the rework of the
first
wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay aft of the spar,
just
outside of the outer most access panel and then again oil canning on the
second bay inboard of the outer most access panel. Interestingly, I
believe
I removed as much material as I could have at that seam and the seam
closed
up so tight a hair would not even be able to get in it. The dimpled
holes
started to not line up. Maybe every hole should not be clecoed and the
riveting should be every other hole when working forward????? Perhaps if
every hole is clecoed and every hole rivetted in in series it wraps the
skin
on too tight of a smaller arc and then it means the gap at the LE will
be
too tight or non existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded causing them
to
bow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I still think this
is my
problem as on the second wing I am trying every combination with the
clecoes. The aft portion of the ribs have been rivetted (completing step
11)and the bays are tight as a drum. Despite what order I do the forward
portion of the ribs with the clecoes, the skin in the same bays as on
the
other wing still remain looser than the other bays. The only thing i can
attribute this to is the ribs bowing inward on these two bays. The ribs
are
bowing toward one another and the neighbor next to it is attributing to
the
mess by bowing in the same direction instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before doing the
bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole process seem
like
a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating
part of
the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it lines
up
flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to get it
right.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and now
all
the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding rivets, I
know so
because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J channel, the
clecoes
did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no oil
canning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
_____
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one.
Your
first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft
portions of
the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was
worried
that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat
on
the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.)
skin.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one
rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be
able
to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap
(1/32=94
at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the
CLECO=92d
bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet
your
way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not
bounce
from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps
push
any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed together
tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes
on
each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from
the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins).
It
really didn=92t take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less
than a
64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin
oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I
need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose
skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim
728DD
175hours
711
KT reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
Thanks Ben,
All great suggestions. Definetly want to stay away from #30 rivets on the s
kins..too much force used to pound those. The holes aren't that large!!! Ma
ybe need to buy new clecoes or bend them for more gripping force.
Live with it is a possible solution, but I am a crazy dentist who is obsces
sed...it is likely to wake me up at weird times in the night when I should
be sleeping.
Thanks guys.
JOhn
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:24:44 -0800
John,
Most of my ribs had a small amount of preload to them. I had to move them
maybe =BC inch in either direction to get the holes lined up at the J-chann
el (the one just forward of or just aft). I would bet your combination of
ribs and bottom skins had just enough variance that riveting per plans or t
he way you did it would have caused the same result.
I don=92t have any advice that would not be wild ass guesses but here are a
couple anyway=85
1) Call Van=92s and talk to them
2) Maybe add some shim material between the ribs and skins??? (ask Va
n=92s).
3) Figure a way to =93shrink=94 the excess skin. Add a jchannel or s
ome similar support??? (ask Van=92s).
4) How severe is the oil canning? Possibly live with it?
I would definitely get some oops rivets and drill the holes that are the wo
rst offenders to #30.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John GonzalezSent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:1
6 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisite
d
Ben and Jim, I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as fa
r as the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 t
hat have canning. Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested
a few days ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on th
e rework of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay
aft of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and then agai
n oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most access panel. Int
erestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I could have at that se
am and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not even be able to get in
it. The dimpled holes started to not line up. Maybe every hole should not b
e clecoed and the riveting should be every other hole when working forward?
???? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed and every hole rivetted in in series
it wraps the skin on too tight of a smaller arc and then it means the gap a
t the LE will be too tight or non existent????? Ben, do you remember whethe
r your ribs were spring loaded causing them to bow in a direction opposite
their flange direction. I still think this is my problem as on the second w
ing I am trying every combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the
ribs have been rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a dru
m. Despite what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes
, the skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than t
he other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing in
ward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the neig
hbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same direction
instead of the opposite. There could be something unique to the way my wing
is before doing the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the wh
ole process seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am find
ing. Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating p
art of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it lin
es up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to get it
right. Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and
now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding rivets,
I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J channel, t
he clecoes did't hold too well. Good Grief Charlie Brown. All I want from S
anta is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no oil canning in any of th
e bays. I promise I have been a good boy!!!! John G.
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one. Your
first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions
of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worri
ed that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat
on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin
.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be abl
e to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap (1/3
2=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the CLECO
=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet
your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not bou
nce from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps p
ush any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed togethe
r tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes on e
ach bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins).
It really didn=92t take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less than
a 64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.comSent: Saturday, December 22, 200
7 3:18 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: oil canning revisit
ed
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD
175hours
711 KT reserved http://www.matronics.com
/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matr
onics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
Being it is QB, it should be assumed they set your wings up correctly,
versus something you did. I would call Van's and tell them working with
their wing following their instructions you are receiving the oil
canning and see what they suggest.
Good thing about QB there are a few of the same wings out there and it
should be easier to figure out than having a Self Build wing were the
builder may have done something unique.
You might still want to consider getting Oops rivets, if there are a few
in a row, which it sounds like, and there isn't that much tightness
using the clecoes you may have some looseness that may, just may, be an
issue later, also by drilling the #30 hole you might be able to pull the
skin a little.
Call Van's.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
I have QB wings and everything on the top side is tight and all the
skins on the bottom side inboard, which they did, are tight.
As for Opps rivets, the holes are not that large to use them, just the
clecoes don't grip well, the holes are slightly enlarged and with any
bowing, the cleoceos come out with any rivetting.
Looks and feel are two different things. Push the bays in in the
center and see what happpens?
JOhn G.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:48:40 -0800
From: rv10builder(at)verizon.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
two questions?
-Do you have QB wings or SB wings
On my SB the ribs bow as well and as far as the clecoing everything
on (as I have not riveted yet) everything looks tight
If QB- call Van's and ask what's up..
-Are you using the "Oops rivets" second time around?
If not order some since it sounds like you are in need of them.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far as
the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2
that have canning.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few
days ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the
rework of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the
bay aft of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and
then again oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most
access panel. Interestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I
could have at that seam and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not
even be able to get in it. The dimpled holes started to not line up.
Maybe every hole should not be clecoed and the riveting should be every
other hole when working forward????? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed
and every hole rivetted in in series it wraps the skin on too tight of a
smaller arc and then it means the gap at the LE will be too tight or non
existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded causing
them to bow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I still
think this is my problem as on the second wing I am trying every
combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the ribs have been
rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a drum. Despite
what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes, the
skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than the
other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing
inward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the
neighbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same
direction instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before doing
the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole process
seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most
frustrating part of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage
door and it lines up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of
carrying on to get it right.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem
and now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding
rivets, I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J
channel, the clecoes did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with
no oil canning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first
one. Your first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the
aft portions of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main
spar, as I was worried that if I kept working forward I would prevent
the skin from laying flat on the spar and it might get hung up on the
edge of the forward(L.E.) skin.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way
up one rivet at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs
you should be able to cleco everything in its final place. There should
be a small gap (1/32=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas
tank skins and the CLECO=92d bottom skin. This gap just about
completely closes up when you rivet your way up a rib (If you work
upward one hole at a time). I would not bounce from one rib to the next
just complete one rib at a time. This helps push any excess out towards
the ends. If the skin edges are pressed together tightly you did not
remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10
minutes on each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of
material from the skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from
stamping out the skins). It really didn=92t take that long. Attached
is a picture of the gap after riveting between the bottom skin and the
gas tank. The space is less than a 64th I would say pretty much all the
way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom
wing skin oil canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and
reriveting or do I need to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with
unacceptably loose skin.I reread the thread and was unclear about others
succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD 175hours
711 KT reserved
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
John
One additional question, are your wings laying upside down on the work
bench while riveting?
Or are they trailing edge up in the wing cradle?
Could make a difference in the oil canning.
John H.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Thanks Ben,
All great suggestions. Definetly want to stay away from #30 rivets on
the skins..too much force used to pound those. The holes aren't that
large!!! Maybe need to buy new clecoes or bend them for more gripping
force.
Live with it is a possible solution, but I am a crazy dentist who is
obscessed...it is likely to wake me up at weird times in the night when
I should be sleeping.
Thanks guys.
JOhn
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:24:44 -0800
John,
Most of my ribs had a small amount of preload to them. I had to
move them maybe =BC inch in either direction to get the holes lined up
at the J-channel (the one just forward of or just aft). I would bet
your combination of ribs and bottom skins had just enough variance that
riveting per plans or the way you did it would have caused the same
result.
I don=92t have any advice that would not be wild ass guesses but
here are a couple anyway=85
1) Call Van=92s and talk to them
2) Maybe add some shim material between the ribs and skins???
(ask Van=92s).
3) Figure a way to =93shrink=94 the excess skin. Add a
jchannel or some similar support??? (ask Van=92s).
4) How severe is the oil canning? Possibly live with it?
I would definitely get some oops rivets and drill the holes that are
the worst offenders to #30.
-Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far as
the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2
that have canning.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few days
ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the rework
of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay aft
of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and then again
oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most access panel.
Interestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I could have at
that seam and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not even be able
to get in it. The dimpled holes started to not line up. Maybe every hole
should not be clecoed and the riveting should be every other hole when
working forward????? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed and every hole
rivetted in in series it wraps the skin on too tight of a smaller arc
and then it means the gap at the LE will be too tight or non
existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded causing
them to bow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I still
think this is my problem as on the second wing I am trying every
combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the ribs have been
rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a drum. Despite
what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes, the
skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than the
other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing
inward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the
neighbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same
direction instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before doing
the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole process
seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating
part of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it
lines up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to
get it right.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and
now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding
rivets, I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J
channel, the clecoes did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no
oil canning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one.
Your first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft
portions of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as
I was worried that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin
from laying flat on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the
forward(L.E.) skin.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up
one rivet at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you
should be able to cleco everything in its final place. There should be
a small gap (1/32=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank
skins and the CLECO=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely
closes up when you rivet your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole
at a time). I would not bounce from one rib to the next just complete
one rib at a time. This helps push any excess out towards the ends. If
the skin edges are pressed together tightly you did not remove enough
material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10
minutes on each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of
material from the skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from
stamping out the skins). It really didn=92t take that long. Attached
is a picture of the gap after riveting between the bottom skin and the
gas tank. The space is less than a 64th I would say pretty much all the
way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing
skin oil canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting
or do I need to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with
unacceptably loose skin.I reread the thread and was unclear about others
succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD 175hours
711 KT reserved
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | oil canning revisited |
Very good question and you are the first to ask, and it would/could make a
difference.
The wings however, are in a craddle, braced at the main spar at the root an
d supported at the leading edge at the end of the wing.
I have tried lifting the outside of the wing by lifting at the main spar an
d it did not make any difference in the skin.
Thought about hanging it from the flap and aileron brackets, but that's get
ting too crazy.
I call it oil canning because it is loose skin that is in the center of the
bay and when you push on it it depresses inward and then flexes back out w
hen released.
Like a pillow.
JOhn
From: ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV1
0-List: oil canning revisitedDate: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:51:06 -0800
John
One additional question, are your wings laying upside down on the work benc
h while riveting?
Or are they trailing edge up in the wing cradle?
Could make a difference in the oil canning.
John H.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Thanks Ben, All great suggestions. Definetly want to stay away from #30 riv
ets on the skins..too much force used to pound those. The holes aren't that
large!!! Maybe need to buy new clecoes or bend them for more gripping forc
e. Live with it is a possible solution, but I am a crazy dentist who is obs
cessed...it is likely to wake me up at weird times in the night when I shou
ld be sleeping. Thanks guys. JOhn
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:24:44 -0800
John,
Most of my ribs had a small amount of preload to them. I had to move them
maybe =BC inch in either direction to get the holes lined up at the J-chann
el (the one just forward of or just aft). I would bet your combination of
ribs and bottom skins had just enough variance that riveting per plans or t
he way you did it would have caused the same result.
I don=92t have any advice that would not be wild ass guesses but here are a
couple anyway=85
1) Call Van=92s and talk to them
2) Maybe add some shim material between the ribs and skins??? (ask Va
n=92s).
3) Figure a way to =93shrink=94 the excess skin. Add a jchannel or s
ome similar support??? (ask Van=92s).
4) How severe is the oil canning? Possibly live with it?
I would definitely get some oops rivets and drill the holes that are the wo
rst offenders to #30.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John GonzalezSent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:1
6 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisite
d
Ben and Jim, I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as fa
r as the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2 t
hat have canning. Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested
a few days ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on th
e rework of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the bay
aft of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and then agai
n oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most access panel. Int
erestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I could have at that se
am and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not even be able to get in
it. The dimpled holes started to not line up. Maybe every hole should not b
e clecoed and the riveting should be every other hole when working forward?
???? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed and every hole rivetted in in series
it wraps the skin on too tight of a smaller arc and then it means the gap a
t the LE will be too tight or non existent????? Ben, do you remember whethe
r your ribs were spring loaded causing them to bow in a direction opposite
their flange direction. I still think this is my problem as on the second w
ing I am trying every combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the
ribs have been rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a dru
m. Despite what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes
, the skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than t
he other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing in
ward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the neig
hbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same direction
instead of the opposite. There could be something unique to the way my wing
is before doing the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the wh
ole process seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am find
ing. Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most frustrating p
art of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage door and it lin
es up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of carrying on to get it
right. Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem and
now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding rivets,
I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J channel, t
he clecoes did't hold too well. Good Grief Charlie Brown. All I want from S
anta is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with no oil canning in any of th
e bays. I promise I have been a good boy!!!! John G.
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: o
il canning revisitedDate: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first one. Your
first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions
of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worri
ed that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat
on the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin
.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way up one rivet
at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs you should be abl
e to cleco everything in its final place. There should be a small gap (1/3
2=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas tank skins and the CLECO
=92d bottom skin. This gap just about completely closes up when you rivet
your way up a rib (If you work upward one hole at a time). I would not bou
nce from one rib to the next just complete one rib at a time. This helps p
ush any excess out towards the ends. If the skin edges are pressed togethe
r tightly you did not remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10 minutes on e
ach bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of material from the
skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from stamping out the skins).
It really didn=92t take that long. Attached is a picture of the gap after
riveting between the bottom skin and the gas tank. The space is less than
a 64th I would say pretty much all the way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.comSent: Saturday, December 22, 200
7 3:18 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: oil canning revisit
ed
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom wing skin oil
canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and reriveting or do I need
to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with unacceptably loose skin.I
reread the thread and was unclear about others succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD
175hours
711 KT reserved http://www.matronics.com
/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matr
onics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
John
If you can, you might try setting the wing on two saw horses, bottom
side down like glider people do sometimes.
See how it acts when you push on the bottom skin.
John H.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Very good question and you are the first to ask, and it would/could
make a difference.
The wings however, are in a craddle, braced at the main spar at the
root and supported at the leading edge at the end of the wing.
I have tried lifting the outside of the wing by lifting at the main
spar and it did not make any difference in the skin.
Thought about hanging it from the flap and aileron brackets, but
that's getting too crazy.
I call it oil canning because it is loose skin that is in the center
of the bay and when you push on it it depresses inward and then flexes
back out when released.
Like a pillow.
JOhn
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:51:06 -0800
John
One additional question, are your wings laying upside down on the
work bench while riveting?
Or are they trailing edge up in the wing cradle?
Could make a difference in the oil canning.
John H.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 7:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Thanks Ben,
All great suggestions. Definetly want to stay away from #30 rivets
on the skins..too much force used to pound those. The holes aren't that
large!!! Maybe need to buy new clecoes or bend them for more gripping
force.
Live with it is a possible solution, but I am a crazy dentist who
is obscessed...it is likely to wake me up at weird times in the night
when I should be sleeping.
Thanks guys.
JOhn
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:24:44 -0800
John,
Most of my ribs had a small amount of preload to them. I had to
move them maybe =BC inch in either direction to get the holes lined up
at the J-channel (the one just forward of or just aft). I would bet
your combination of ribs and bottom skins had just enough variance that
riveting per plans or the way you did it would have caused the same
result.
I don=92t have any advice that would not be wild ass guesses but
here are a couple anyway=85
1) Call Van=92s and talk to them
2) Maybe add some shim material between the ribs and
skins??? (ask Van=92s).
3) Figure a way to =93shrink=94 the excess skin. Add a
jchannel or some similar support??? (ask Van=92s).
4) How severe is the oil canning? Possibly live with it?
I would definitely get some oops rivets and drill the holes that
are the worst offenders to #30.
-Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:16 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Ben and Jim,
I would really like to get an idea of what is acceptable as far
as the oil canning is concerned in these bottom skin bays. I have 2 1/2
that have canning.
Ben, I removed the material at the edge as you suggested a few
days ago, but i may have removed as much as 1/32 or almost 1/16 on the
rework of the first wing. The result was still the oil canning in the
bay aft of the spar, just outside of the outer most access panel and
then again oil canning on the second bay inboard of the outer most
access panel. Interestingly, I believe I removed as much material as I
could have at that seam and the seam closed up so tight a hair would not
even be able to get in it. The dimpled holes started to not line up.
Maybe every hole should not be clecoed and the riveting should be every
other hole when working forward????? Perhaps if every hole is clecoed
and every hole rivetted in in series it wraps the skin on too tight of a
smaller arc and then it means the gap at the LE will be too tight or non
existent?????
Ben, do you remember whether your ribs were spring loaded
causing them to bow in a direction opposite their flange direction. I
still think this is my problem as on the second wing I am trying every
combination with the clecoes. The aft portion of the ribs have been
rivetted (completing step 11)and the bays are tight as a drum. Despite
what order I do the forward portion of the ribs with the clecoes, the
skin in the same bays as on the other wing still remain looser than the
other bays. The only thing i can attribute this to is the ribs bowing
inward on these two bays. The ribs are bowing toward one another and the
neighbor next to it is attributing to the mess by bowing in the same
direction instead of the opposite.
There could be something unique to the way my wing is before
doing the bottom skin, but the building manual sure makes the whole
process seem like a no brainer, but that is anything but what I am
finding.
Sorry for carrying on with this issue but it is the most
frustrating part of the build which I have found. I conquered my baggage
door and it lines up flush with the fuse skin and that took a lot of
carrying on to get it right.
Needless to say, replacing the skin may not correct the problem
and now all the rib flange holes have been enlarged from the expanding
rivets, I know so because when I re-did the first wing forward of the J
channel, the clecoes did't hold too well.
Good Grief Charlie Brown.
All I want from Santa is two nice smooth bottom wings skins with
no oil canning in any of the bays.
I promise I have been a good boy!!!!
John G.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:59:21 -0800
John,
I re-read many of the posts in the thread as well as your first
one. Your first post you said this:
=93I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the
aft portions of the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main
spar, as I was worried that if I kept working forward I would prevent
the skin from laying flat on the spar and it might get hung up on the
edge of the forward(L.E.) skin.=94
I think this was your issue. You really want to work your way
up one rivet at a time. After completion of the aft half of the ribs
you should be able to cleco everything in its final place. There should
be a small gap (1/32=94 at the most) between the leading edge or gas
tank skins and the CLECO=92d bottom skin. This gap just about
completely closes up when you rivet your way up a rib (If you work
upward one hole at a time). I would not bounce from one rib to the next
just complete one rib at a time. This helps push any excess out towards
the ends. If the skin edges are pressed together tightly you did not
remove enough material and risk oil canning.
Mine went together w/o any oil canning. I spent about 5 to 10
minutes on each bottom skin with a file removing the slightest bit of
material from the skin edge (mostly just the machining marks from
stamping out the skins). It really didn=92t take that long. Attached
is a picture of the gap after riveting between the bottom skin and the
gas tank. The space is less than a 64th I would say pretty much all the
way down the entire wing.
Is it correctable now??? I don=92t know what to tell you.
-Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning revisited
Was anybody succesful at improving or eliminating the bottom
wing skin oil canning by simply shaving the edge of the skin and
reriveting or do I need to replace the whole skin.I have two panels with
unacceptably loose skin.I reread the thread and was unclear about others
succeses.Thanks ---Jim 728DD 175hours
711 KT reserved
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V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
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p://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Sorry for the segue, but I couldn't help noticing you mentioned the clecos falling
out. I ran into that problem on by tailcone and began to notice a pattern.
The ones I got from Avery hold fast in final drilled holes, but the ones I bought
at Aircraft Spruce tend to pop out every time I hit the rivet gun. It took
a while to find all the culprits but I've isolated them into "loose" and "tight."
The loose ones are good for pre-drilled holes while the tight ones I save
for final riveting.
I appreciate the dialogue on the oil canning since I'll be doing those skins on
my QB next week. Currently all wired up and doing the flap & aileron fairings.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154170#154170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Chris, I'm going the same route, except I was foolish enough to put it where Van's
probe went. The aileron push tube is a problem there but manageable. Fortunately,
I was warned, so I'll pass it on. The Dynon tube's metal - where you screw
it to the Gretz mount - is very soft and thin. Drilling is not too bad but
tapping the holes for screws must be done very carefully.
John
[quote=" I installed the new Dynon heated pitot / AOA probe, which is fabricated
from nickel and it looks like a real quality unit. I plan on at least one
Dynon box, which will give me visual and aural AOA / stall warning. The probe
also is temperature controlled for low current draw, and has fault annunciation
on a Dynon box, or a stand alone LED if not using a Dynon box. My experience
with the Dynon system I have in the RV8 couldn't be better. The system is
rock solid, and loaded with features.
Chris Hukill
shaving bottom wing skins to fit
/quote]
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154172#154172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
Thanks, I remember your post from a few weeks ago, but I didn't remember wh
ich supplier had the better clecoes. Now I will remember. BTW mine are a mi
x aswell.
Here is what has developed since Monday.
I put in my AOA tubing on the other wing and was able to finish tonight the
riveting of Step 11, all the ribs but not the Main spar.
Here is what I have learned by this second wing.
Wish my rivetting on the first wing was as good as on this one. No dents to
this point. NONE!
Also a big issue I have learned...It had been a while since I rivetted, my
excuss for the first wing. On the first wing I believe I was not equallying
out the rivet gun pressure enough with the bucking bar pressure, so ultima
tely, some of my rivet lines had a slight depression to them. I BELIEVE tha
t this will cause a tighter arc pattern to the skin than is supposed to be
and the skin in the middle of the bays wants to pillow out.
Today I really got my rivetting down and turned the volume down, the pressu
re the same, and after the first few gentle hit of the set, i pulled or pus
hed out the bucking bar out so the skin would not collapse in. My rivetting
looks really good...almost as good as the QB results or back rivetting.
So to this point without the rivets in on the main spar the skin is much ti
ghter, but a flex is still in the same bay, but absolutely better than the
first wing. Will see what happens when the main spar is rivetted, and when
the entire skin is finished.
Again, I did remove the material from the edge and the without any skin man
ipulation(clecoes are in on the main spar) the rivets don't go into their h
oles in the main spar because the skin is more forward than the holes in th
e spar. A slight wiggle with the ice pick allows the rivets to go in fine.
My rivet pattern was going outboard and inboard with each rivet that I went
forward. Meaning all horizontal rows were complete before moving forward t
oward the LE skin. This is the way the Jchannel was rivetted.
I did not complete one vertical row at a time.
I will finish the spar rivetting by starting in the middle of the bay, basi
cally the same location I started on the rear spar and move outward and inw
ard at the same time.
It is amazing that some builders had no issues at all with this. To me it s
eems like walking across a mine field.
Haven't decided what I will do with the first wing, either nothing, or do a
n access panel with slightly offset holes in the re inforcement plate so th
e skin dimple get pulled inward toward a center point and if this does not
work I will cut large holes in each bay to better access each shop head for
better removal of all rivets and redo the skin(Without dents) the second t
ime. Oh, guess I'll need to sort some clecoes of buy some more from Avery.
Merry Christmas, back to teeth work tomorrow.
John G
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: oil canning revisited> From: johngoodman@earthlin
k.net> Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 06:43:45 -0800> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
>> > Sorry for the segue, but I couldn't help noticing you mentioned the cl
ecos falling out. I ran into that problem on by tailcone and began to notic
e a pattern. The ones I got from Avery hold fast in final drilled holes, bu
t the ones I bought at Aircraft Spruce tend to pop out every time I hit the
rivet gun. It took a while to find all the culprits but I've isolated them
into "loose" and "tight." The loose ones are good for pre-drilled holes wh
ile the tight ones I save for final riveting.> > I appreciate the dialogue
on the oil canning since I'll be doing those skins on my QB next week. Curr
ently all wired up and doing the flap & aileron fairings.> > John> > ------
--> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived> N711JG reserved> > > > > Read this to
pic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154170#15
======> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning revisited |
Here's a slight divergence from the thread but a chance to reflect on how
far the kits have come. When I was building my RV-6 (no prepunch fuselage,
other parts only the outer skin was prepunched) the big discussion on
preventing oil canning involved heating the skin prior to fitting the skin
and drilling to the ribs (which you marked to help get the holes on center).
The theory was the heated, and therefore expanded skin would shrink slightly
and create a tighter fit. Never tried it myself due to the huge amount of
extra effort for a one man shop.
No help to your current state John, but sometimes I have to remind myself
how much better the QB RV-10 was compared to previous ventures. When I was
working on the RV-7 I felt like I was cheating since the kit was so much
better, on the -10 I felt like I should be arrested for getting away with so
much less work! Unfortunately it's still a lot of work but the rewards are
magnificent!
I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and that Santa was good to you,
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: oil canning revisited
Thanks, I remember your post from a few weeks ago, but I didn't remember
which supplier had the better clecoes. Now I will remember. BTW mine are a
mix aswell.
Here is what has developed since Monday.
I put in my AOA tubing on the other wing and was able to finish tonight the
riveting of Step 11, all the ribs but not the Main spar.
Here is what I have learned by this second wing.
Wish my rivetting on the first wing was as good as on this one. No dents to
this point. NONE!
Also a big issue I have learned...It had been a while since I rivetted, my
excuss for the first wing. On the first wing I believe I was not equallying
out the rivet gun pressure enough with the bucking bar pressure, so
ultimately, some of my rivet lines had a slight depression to them. I
BELIEVE that this will cause a tighter arc pattern to the skin than is
supposed to be and the skin in the middle of the bays wants to pillow out.
Today I really got my rivetting down and turned the volume down, the
pressure the same, and after the first few gentle hit of the set, i pulled
or pushed out the bucking bar out so the skin would not collapse in. My
rivetting looks really good...almost as good as the QB results or back
rivetting.
So to this point without the rivets in on the main spar the skin is much
tighter, but a flex is still in the same bay, but absolutely better than the
first wing. Will see what happens when the main spar is rivetted, and when
the entire skin is finished.
Again, I did remove the material from the edge and the without any skin
manipulation(clecoes are in on the main spar) the rivets don't go into their
holes in the main spar because the skin is more forward than the holes in
the spar. A slight wiggle with the ice pick allows the rivets to go in fine.
My rivet pattern was going outboard and inboard with each rivet that I went
forward. Meaning all horizontal rows were complete before moving forward
toward the LE skin. This is the way the Jchannel was rivetted.
I did not complete one vertical row at a time.
I will finish the spar rivetting by starting in the middle of the bay,
basically the same location I started on the rear spar and move outward and
inward at the same time.
It is amazing that some builders had no issues at all with this. To me it
seems like walking across a mine field.
Haven't decided what I will do with the first wing, either nothing, or do an
access panel with slightly offset holes in the re inforcement plate so the
skin dimple get pulled inward toward a center point and if this does not
work I will cut large holes in each bay to better access each shop head for
better removal of all rivets and redo the skin(Without dents) the second
time. Oh, guess I'll need to sort some clecoes of buy some more from Avery.
Merry Christmas, back to teeth work tomorrow.
John G
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: oil canning revisited
> From: johngoodman(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 06:43:45 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Sorry for the segue, but I couldn't help noticing you mentioned the clecos
falling out. I ran into that problem on by tailcone and began to notice a
pattern. The ones I got from Avery hold fast in final drilled holes, but the
ones I bought at Aircraft Spruce tend to pop out every time I hit the rivet
gun. It took a while to find all the culprits but I've isolated them into
"loose" and "tight." The loose ones are good for pre-drilled holes while the
tight ones I save for final riveting.
>
> I appreciate the dialogue on the oil canning since I'll be doing those
skins on my QB next week. Currently all wired up and doing the flap &
aileron fairings.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154170#154170
>
>
>
>
>====
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
John
The Dynon heated Pitot/AOA probe that I have must be different than
yours, as the new heated ones have about 1/8 inch thickness of nickel
steel where the screws go into, and drilling / tapping them was not an
issue. The plumbing and wires are in the center where they aren't likely
to be hit with the drill going in, although I would certainly watch my
depth while drilling, as it states in the instructions.
Chris Hukill
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Chris, I'm going the same route, except I was foolish enough to put it
where Van's
probe went. The aileron push tube is a problem there but manageable.
Fortunately,
I was warned, so I'll pass it on. The Dynon tube's metal - where you
screw
it to the Gretz mount - is very soft and thin. Drilling is not too bad
but
tapping the holes for screws must be done very carefully.
John
[quote=" I installed the new Dynon heated pitot / AOA probe, which is
fabricated
from nickel and it looks like a real quality unit. I plan on at least
one
Dynon box, which will give me visual and aural AOA / stall warning. The
probe
also is temperature controlled for low current draw, and has fault
annunciation
on a Dynon box, or a stand alone LED if not using a Dynon box. My
experience
with the Dynon system I have in the RV8 couldn't be better. The system
is
rock solid, and loaded with features.
Chris Hukill
shaving bottom wing skins to fit
/quote]
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RONALD GROVER" <rv8grover(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 N324RG First Flight |
Piloted by myself on December 16, 2007 RV-10 N324RG took flight from
Propwash Airport located in Justin, Texas. After almost 4 years, and
roughly 2600 building hours and weighing in at 1658 lbs., kit # 40063 took
to the air. The powerplant is the TMX IO-540 and propeller is a Hartzell
blended airfoil. The equipment list includes a Grand Rapids EFIS, EIS 6000
engine monitor, PMA8000, GNS430, GTX330, SL-30, 496, and Sorcerer autopilot.
The RV10 is a sweeeeet ride. You can view the video at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVwVrg1Mr5k
I am a repeat offender (RV8 # 80133) so thanks again to my wife for all the
help and support and to Vans for another great design. Thanks also go to
Alex DeDoninicis for the checkout, and to my son, Troy Grover (Grov-Air,
Inc.) for flying down from Indiana to help prepare for the first flight and
for flying the chase plane.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 N324RG First Flight |
Ron, Congratulations! Great video as well, although you may need to update
your username ;)
Pretty slick having the family play so much a part of it.
Have fun,
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RONALD GROVER
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Piloted by myself on December 16, 2007 RV-10 N324RG took flight from
Propwash Airport located in Justin, Texas. After almost 4 years, and
roughly 2600 building hours and weighing in at 1658 lbs., kit # 40063 took
to the air. The powerplant is the TMX IO-540 and propeller is a Hartzell
blended airfoil. The equipment list includes a Grand Rapids EFIS, EIS 6000
engine monitor, PMA8000, GNS430, GTX330, SL-30, 496, and Sorcerer autopilot.
The RV10 is a sweeeeet ride. You can view the video at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVwVrg1Mr5k
I am a repeat offender (RV8 # 80133) so thanks again to my wife for all the
help and support and to Vans for another great design. Thanks also go to
Alex DeDoninicis for the checkout, and to my son, Troy Grover (Grov-Air,
Inc.) for flying down from Indiana to help prepare for the first flight and
for flying the chase plane.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 N324RG First Flight |
Congratulations Ron!!!!
I was in Dallas a few months ago and had the opportunity to have dinner with
Wayne Edgerton, Ron, and his wife. Afterwards, Ron invited us over to his
house for a tour of his airplane factory. Ron (and Wayne for that matter)
have hangars that most of us would drool over. However, Ron still built
his RV-10 in the garage with the hangar ten feet away. Something about
wanting a/c during the Texas summers. I was very impressed with Ron's
skills as a builder. It was clearly one of the best built RV-10s that I've
seen to date.
Ron I would like to see some pictures of your interior and panel if
possible.
So when is Troy going to finish his RV-10? The pictures on his website are
quite dated.
Bob
#40684 - Wings ordered
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RONALD GROVER
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Piloted by myself on December 16, 2007 RV-10 N324RG took flight from
Propwash Airport located in Justin, Texas. After almost 4 years, and
roughly 2600 building hours and weighing in at 1658 lbs., kit # 40063 took
to the air. The powerplant is the TMX IO-540 and propeller is a Hartzell
blended airfoil. The equipment list includes a Grand Rapids EFIS, EIS 6000
engine monitor, PMA8000, GNS430, GTX330, SL-30, 496, and Sorcerer autopilot.
The RV10 is a sweeeeet ride. You can view the video at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVwVrg1Mr5k
I am a repeat offender (RV8 # 80133) so thanks again to my wife for all the
help and support and to Vans for another great design. Thanks also go to
Alex DeDoninicis for the checkout, and to my son, Troy Grover (Grov-Air,
Inc.) for flying down from Indiana to help prepare for the first flight and
for flying the chase plane.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 N324RG First Flight |
I may be suffering from "Oldtimers disease" but can anyone tell me where in
the instruction manual Part F-10108 is talked about?
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Congratulations Ron!!!!
I was in Dallas a few months ago and had the opportunity to have dinner with
Wayne Edgerton, Ron, and his wife. Afterwards, Ron invited us over to his
house for a tour of his airplane factory. Ron (and Wayne for that matter)
have hangars that most of us would drool over. However, Ron still built
his RV-10 in the garage with the hangar ten feet away. Something about
wanting a/c during the Texas summers. I was very impressed with Ron's
skills as a builder. It was clearly one of the best built RV-10s that I've
seen to date.
Ron I would like to see some pictures of your interior and panel if
possible.
So when is Troy going to finish his RV-10? The pictures on his website are
quite dated.
Bob
#40684 - Wings ordered
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RONALD GROVER
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Piloted by myself on December 16, 2007 RV-10 N324RG took flight from
Propwash Airport located in Justin, Texas. After almost 4 years, and
roughly 2600 building hours and weighing in at 1658 lbs., kit # 40063 took
to the air. The powerplant is the TMX IO-540 and propeller is a Hartzell
blended airfoil. The equipment list includes a Grand Rapids EFIS, EIS 6000
engine monitor, PMA8000, GNS430, GTX330, SL-30, 496, and Sorcerer autopilot.
The RV10 is a sweeeeet ride. You can view the video at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVwVrg1Mr5k
I am a repeat offender (RV8 # 80133) so thanks again to my wife for all the
help and support and to Vans for another great design. Thanks also go to
Alex DeDoninicis for the checkout, and to my son, Troy Grover (Grov-Air,
Inc.) for flying down from Indiana to help prepare for the first flight and
for flying the chase plane.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 N324RG First Flight |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Page 48-1 steps 1-4 and page FF4-2 step 8.
I thought you were up in MN and the plane was in GA???
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed Dec 26 12:41:44 2007
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
I may be suffering from Oldtimers disease but can anyone tell me where in the instruction
manual Part F-10108 is talked about?
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Congratulations Ron!!!!
I was in Dallas a few months ago and had the opportunity to have dinner with Wayne
Edgerton, Ron, and his wife. Afterwards, Ron invited us over to his house
for a tour of his airplane factory. Ron (and Wayne for that matter) have hangars
that most of us would drool over. However, Ron still built his RV-10
in the garage with the hangar ten feet away. Something about wanting a/c during
the Texas summers. I was very impressed with Rons skills as a builder.
It was clearly one of the best built RV-10s that Ive seen to date.
Ron I would like to see some pictures of your interior and panel if possible.
So when is Troy going to finish his RV-10? The pictures on his website are quite
dated.
Bob
#40684 Wings ordered
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RONALD GROVER
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 N324RG First Flight
Piloted by myself on December 16, 2007 RV-10 N324RG took flight from Propwash Airport located in Justin, Texas. After almost 4 years, and roughly 2600 building hours and weighing in at 1658 lbs., kit # 40063 took to the air. The powerplant is the TMX IO-540 and propeller is a Hartzell blended airfoil. The equipment list includes a Grand Rapids EFIS, EIS 6000 engine monitor, PMA8000, GNS430, GTX330, SL-30, 496, and Sorcerer autopilot. The RV10 is a sweeeeet ride. You can view the video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVwVrg1Mr5k
I am a repeat offender (RV8 # 80133) so thanks again to my wife for all the help
and support and to Vans for another great design. Thanks also go to Alex DeDoninicis
for the checkout, and to my son, Troy Grover (Grov-Air, Inc.) for flying
down from Indiana to help prepare for the first flight and for flying the
chase plane.
Ron Grover
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | position rear Headset jacks |
Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset jacks
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 N324RG First Flight |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
bcondrey wrote:
> Page 48-1 steps 1-4 and page FF4-2 step 8.
>
> I thought you were up in MN and the plane was in GA???
>
> Bob
Bob.
Think you meant Page 47-11 steps 1-4 [Shocked]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154418#154418
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 N324RG First Flight |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You're right - the page was dog-eared where the number is...
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed Dec 26 15:24:54 2007
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 N324RG First Flight
bcondrey wrote:
> Page 48-1 steps 1-4 and page FF4-2 step 8.
>
> I thought you were up in MN and the plane was in GA???
>
> Bob
Bob.
Think you meant Page 47-11 steps 1-4 [Shocked]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154418#154418
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | position rear Headset jacks |
On the arm rest just aft of the rear air vent that are on the fuse side. Th
ose arm rests are a little too small to begin with and they are more like a
elbow rest.
John G.> From: VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV1
0-List: position rear Headset jacks> Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:14:45 +1100>
d.com>> > Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset j
========================> _
=====> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | position rear Headset jacks |
I am putting them in a center console.....I know....not much help.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
McGough
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset jacks
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Thanks I have the flightlines interior and didnt want to cut any
holes.....this may be the best way though
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
On the arm rest just aft of the rear air vent that are on the fuse
side. Those arm rests are a little too small to begin with and they are
more like a elbow rest.
John G.
> From: VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
> Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:14:45 +1100
>
>
> Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset
jacks>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Hi Chris,
I've attached several photos showing where I've got my headset jacks
installed. As you can see from the photos there is the headset jacks, a
music hookup, arm to control rear seat air and O2 controller.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: position rear Headset jacks
Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset
jacks
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Wayne, This looks like one awesome interior, can you please post more
pictures and details of the rest of it? !! Thanks, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
Hi Chris,
I've attached several photos showing where I've got my headset jacks
installed. As you can see from the photos there is the headset jacks, a
music hookup, arm to control rear seat air and O2 controller.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: position rear Headset jacks
Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset
jacks
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
| From: | dougpflyrv(at)aol.com |
WAYNE, YOUR INTERIOR PHOTOS LOOK GREAT. WHO DID IT? WOULD LOVE TO SEE SOME MORE
PICS.
THANKS,
DOUG PRESTON
N372RV
BHM
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Edgerton <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Sent: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 6:13 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
Hi Chris,
?
I've attached several photos showing where I've got
my headset jacks installed. As you can see from the photos there is the headset
jacks, a music hookup, arm to control rear seat air and O2
controller.
?
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
?
?
?
?
?
Time:
US
From:
"Chris and Susie McGough"
Subject:
position rear Headset
jacks
?????
?????
????? Guys just
wondering where people are putting there rear headset
jacks
?????
?????
Chris
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Chris,
I guess I didn't make it clear. Mine is just like yours. Drilling was a minor issue
but tapping must be done very carefully because the metal is so soft.
John
> The Dynon heated Pitot/AOA probe that I have must be different than yours,
as the new heated ones have about 1/8 inch thickness of nickel steel where the
screws go into, and drilling / tapping them was not an issue. The plumbing
and wires are in the center where they aren't likely to be hit with the drill
going in, although I would certainly watch my depth while drilling, as it states
in the instructions.
>
> Chris Hukill
>
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154523#154523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Chris: I put mine on the top of the crossbar behind the seat backs,
close to center. Dunno whether that will be the best place for cords to
be convenient and out-of-the-way, but it seemed like a good spot to me.
Phil #40220 (airframe done, Mazda 20B engine being prepared, wiring to
come)
> From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
>
>
> Guys just wondering where people are putting there rear headset jacks
>
> Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
Hi guys, I have the same pitot. Could you please tell me what size
drill and tap you used for your pitot in order to enable mounting to the
Gretz mount.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Patrick
#40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: johngoodman [mailto:johngoodman(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, 28 December 2007 3:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pitot tube
-->
Chris,
I guess I didn't make it clear. Mine is just like yours. Drilling was a
minor issue but tapping must be done very carefully because the metal is
so soft.
John
> The Dynon heated Pitot/AOA probe that I have must be different than
yours, as the new heated ones have about 1/8 inch thickness of nickel
steel where the screws go into, and drilling / tapping them was not an
issue. The plumbing and wires are in the center where they aren't likely
to be hit with the drill going in, although I would certainly watch my
depth while drilling, as it states in the instructions.
>
> Chris Hukill
>
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154523#154523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | position rear Headset jacks |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I offer this for anyone thinking about building a 10 and wondering how long it
might take. I believe in calendar time I am progressing on the fast track. Everything
is slow build. I am making very few modifications from the plans.
One year ago today, I picked up my Emp kit from FedEx Freight. Since then it has
been petal to the metal non-stop work on it, except for sleep and a 40 to 45
hour a week job.
The Emp kit took about 224 hours of actual construction (no planning, review etc
time is included in any of my figures, only physical work).
The wing kit has taken about 341 hours to date. The only thing left is the fiber
glass work on the aft part of the wing tip and connecting the wing wiring to
the components in the wing tip. All wiring in the wing is complete.
The fuselage is complete through section 31 plus 36 and most of 37. Work time
on the fuselage to this point is about 204 hours.
That comes to about 770 work hours plus probably that much time or more X2, X3
... in study.
These building times fall in line with many other builders here which you can find
through many of the links on sites such as Tims. I hope I am more then half
way by the calendar but I am not sure. The wiring planning is almost over
powering. Just take it one day and one thing at a time. [Shocked]
If you are considering building a 10, at this stage of my construction, my best
suggestion would be to plan, plan, order, plan, start building, plan and then
some more planning. And enjoy it all the way. It is addicting! 8)
It will also help if you are able to do most of your construction at home, unless
you are lucky enough to have an attached hanger. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154610#154610
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
patrick.pulis(at)seagas.c wrote:
> Hi guys, I have the same pitot. Could you please tell me what size
> drill and tap you used for your pitot in order to enable mounting to the
> Gretz mount.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation.
>
> Patrick
> #40299 VH-XPP
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> --
Patrick,
I'll have to check my notes but I think I drilled it out to a #6 screw. Got stainless
steel ones from Aircraft Spruce.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154635#154635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EFDsteve(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
Does anyone know anything about Aveo Engineering's offerings? I saw this
company at Oshkosh this year, and they were displaying a very interesting line
of products. I haven't heard much of anything about them.
Here's their transponder/com/traffic unit for a mere $1,577:
_http://www.aveousa.net/av57inavdi1.html_
(http://www.aveousa.net/av57inavdi1.html)
Steve Weinstock
40230
In a message dated 12/19/2007 2:44:05 P.M. Central Standard Time,
wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "William Curtis"
Ah, got it. But I think it is the fault of the competition (Bendix/King,
Chelton, L3, Aviddyne, et al).
I guess I'm trying to figure out what is preventing the competition from
coming out with their own product and giving Garmin a run for their money. I
don't see the experimental EFIS makers entering this market because as with
Transponders and GPS, ADS-B devices will probably have to be TSO'd, even for
experimentals. Garmin used GPS to spearhead their way to avionics dominance,
and nothing I see should prevent one of the other vendors from using ADS-B to
do the same. I don't see this a the fault of Garmin, I see it as the fault of
the so-called competition.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Lack of viable competition creates a stranglehold for most competitors
> and hence the customer. More suppliers, constant demand - better
> pricing. The GDL-90 is made in Salem, Oregon.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based
> Garmin" have a "stranglehold?"
>
> William
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
Hi Steve
I saw their products at KOSH as well. Like yourself I was very interested
especially when looking at the *promised* functionality versus cost.
I have traded emails with the owners over the past few months but so far
everything seems to be in the future. If you contact them and get any
additional info, I would be interested.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of EFDsteve(at)aol.com
Sent: December-27-07 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Does anyone know anything about Aveo Engineering's offerings? I saw this
company at Oshkosh this year, and they were displaying a very interesting
line of products. I haven't heard much of anything about them.
Here's their transponder/com/traffic unit for a mere $1,577:
http://www.aveousa.net/av57inavdi1.html
Steve Weinstock
40230
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Running at 1116 hrs after start of 1/3/07. Q/B kit
Planning and advance ordering is essential. The FG-composite work is far more challenging
time-wise than I had anticipated. Working on the doors now. Next step
is finishing the wings. I am out sourcing the panel as I want to get in the
air having been without a plane for a year. A lot of the work has to do with
how good you want your work to be. Little stuff like adding nut plates to the
tail cone and installing the tail cone strobe took 3 days!!!! ouch! Winter
is rough also as deliveries are always an issue and working on the plexi windows
difficult (heat the bathroom to 85 degrees). Epoxy seems to be made for 60-80
degrees and curing the stuff slows to a crawl. Even 2 part paints take forever
to cure off.
I think that keeping the project in the garage as long as possible is also helpful
Finally, I want to thank the RV builders that advised me to keep mods to a minimum.
Mods are real time killers. The Vans designs are pretty good.
If you can shop agressively at OSH or Sun-n-fun you will probably pay for the trip
and have some fun while you are at it.
My mod list is short:
1. Inspection port for step bolt - loose steps are a PITA
2. Alex "D"'s high capacity oil cooler - hot in Nevada
3. SS vent boxes for the firewall EPM.AV corp - not too hot
4. Matco parking brake
5. Might change to flex fuel lines
6. Not really a mod, but I put in my rear windows and cabin top upholstery before
attaching the cabin top. I think that this is a real time saver and cannot
imagine doing these two things upside down.
Engine Mattituck TMX-IO540 - good deal at OSH
Hartzell 2x from Vans
Final advice - buy early - it will only cost more in 4-5 months
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154678#154678
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Wilson" <simon(at)sertech.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Really really dumb question by a newbie, how does one see the pictures that
are mentioned.
Simon Wilson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
I, too, have looked at their web site and emailed the company.? So far just vague
future promises.? The products look nice and at a reasonable price point.?
In my thinking, I'm waiting to see if they (or anyone else) has an offering at
SNF, if not, I am going to go with the Zoan XRX.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 1:01 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Hi Steve
?
I saw their products at KOSH as well. Like yourself I was very interested especially
when looking at the *promised* functionality versus cost.
?
I have traded emails with the owners over the past few months but so far everything
seems to be in the future. ?If you contact them and get any additional info,
I would be interested.
?
Cheers
?
Les Kearney
#40643
?
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of EFDsteve(at)aol.com
Sent: December-27-07 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
?
Does anyone know anything about Aveo Engineering's offerings?? I saw this company
at Oshkosh this year, and they were displaying a very interesting line of products.?
I haven't heard much of anything about them.
?
Here's their transponder/com/traffic unit for a mere $1,577:
?
http://www.aveousa.net/av57inavdi1.html
?
Steve Weinstock
40230
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
a google search
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_and_tap_size_chart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Instructions |
I'm finally back to building now that the bulk of the holiday season has
passed.
Thank you very much Ralph, Dave, Tim and Ben for the info on the Gretz! It
was all very helpful! Hopefully this weekend I can put it into practice.
Dave and Ben you both have done beautiful work. Great pictures and links!
Did any of you have much trouble getting the pitot to fit the mount? The
instructions say the pitot may need to be ground to fit. In my case, it
looks like a substantial amount of grinding.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
Patrick,
I'll borrow a quote from John Cox for you on this "Make sure you take off
your builder hat and put on your repairman/serviceman hat.".
Although not technically that difficult to install think about maintaining
it after installation. I did not think about install or location when I cut
the holes for my bracket which I ended up putting it in the stock Van's
pitot location. It worked out ok but I had several technical hurdles to
overcome.
The copper tube coming out of the pitot tube itself came straight up into
the aileron torque tube requiring a healthy bend to maintain clearance while
the tube moved fore and aft. The mounting locations for the circuit board
in this location are sub optimal for ease of wire installation and
maintenance due to the aileron pushrod and bellcrank parts. Think about
threading the wires up through the pitot tube hole and guiding them into
their install location on the circuit board and then tightening the
miniature screws. You also have to secure the aluminum pitot line to the
copper line through an inspection hole after installing the bottom wing
skins.
Pictures of my installation can be found here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=wings|pitot
I ended up making short length wires and connectors that I could attach to
the circuit board prior to closing up the wing. I used a locking 2 wire
molex plug for the power wires and dean's plug for the thermistor wires. My
thoughts were to make the actual installation of the tube into the finished
wing easier. One thing to think about too is what happens to moisture that
may accumulate on the wires? The circuit board should be on the top side of
the wing so all wire runs coming out of the unprotected holes are not
subject to water droplets running down the wires and into their attach
points. I am considering encasing the wires in silicone but have not yet
done that.
If anyone has more questions or thinks I f'd something up please let me
know!
-Ben Westfall
#40579
N109LB (reserved)
PDX
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy of the
instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I could not
find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting bracket
instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that has the
wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the standpoint
of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin? The
bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacksposition rear Headset jacks |
I had several builders request that I post some photos of my interior.
Rather than post them on Matronics I sent some to them diretc, because
of the number of pictures I sent them and the size limits on Matronics.
If anyone else would like to see my interior photos just e-mail me
offline and Ill forward them to you.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
do nor archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dropped the flaps |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, I've gone and done it. I was hanging my flaps (all done and polished) on
the ceiling using a pulley system when I lost control and they dropped. I had
a safety line that almost saved the day, but my right flap has a slightly bent
corner (outboard) and a small dimple right in the middle of the top half.
I should have asked my wife for help but you know how that goes. Anyway, it looks
like I'm going to learn some skills in body repair. A quick look at auto body
repair sites suggests that a little heat can sometimes raise a dent. Any suggestions
would be appreciated. I don't want to go the filler route since I plan
on them being polished.
John [Evil or Very Mad]
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154705#154705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Pitot Instructions |
Yes grind away. It is really soft material so "grind" lightly. I actually
used the scotchbrite wheel on my benchtop grinder. Go slow and keep test
fitting it to the mount as I imagine "adding back" material is a PIA. The
attached photo shows what mine looks like after modifying. I recall most of
the removal of material was the aft edge and then thinning it a little
starting roughly in the center of the screw holes and going forward. I
remember having to remove material a lot farther down from the screw holes
than what you would think when looking at the mount holes. You can see the
color difference in the photo.
Thanks for the cudos.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 5:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm finally back to building now that the bulk of the holiday season has
passed.
Thank you very much Ralph, Dave, Tim and Ben for the info on the Gretz! It
was all very helpful! Hopefully this weekend I can put it into practice.
Dave and Ben you both have done beautiful work. Great pictures and links!
Did any of you have much trouble getting the pitot to fit the mount? The
instructions say the pitot may need to be ground to fit. In my case, it
looks like a substantial amount of grinding.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
Patrick,
I'll borrow a quote from John Cox for you on this "Make sure you take off
your builder hat and put on your repairman/serviceman hat.".
Although not technically that difficult to install think about maintaining
it after installation. I did not think about install or location when I cut
the holes for my bracket which I ended up putting it in the stock Van's
pitot location. It worked out ok but I had several technical hurdles to
overcome.
The copper tube coming out of the pitot tube itself came straight up into
the aileron torque tube requiring a healthy bend to maintain clearance while
the tube moved fore and aft. The mounting locations for the circuit board
in this location are sub optimal for ease of wire installation and
maintenance due to the aileron pushrod and bellcrank parts. Think about
threading the wires up through the pitot tube hole and guiding them into
their install location on the circuit board and then tightening the
miniature screws. You also have to secure the aluminum pitot line to the
copper line through an inspection hole after installing the bottom wing
skins.
Pictures of my installation can be found here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=wings|pitot
I ended up making short length wires and connectors that I could attach to
the circuit board prior to closing up the wing. I used a locking 2 wire
molex plug for the power wires and dean's plug for the thermistor wires. My
thoughts were to make the actual installation of the tube into the finished
wing easier. One thing to think about too is what happens to moisture that
may accumulate on the wires? The circuit board should be on the top side of
the wing so all wire runs coming out of the unprotected holes are not
subject to water droplets running down the wires and into their attach
points. I am considering encasing the wires in silicone but have not yet
done that.
If anyone has more questions or thinks I f'd something up please let me
know!
-Ben Westfall
#40579
N109LB (reserved)
PDX
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy of the
instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I could not
find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting bracket
instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that has the
wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the standpoint
of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin? The
bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dropped the flaps |
John,
I doubt if heat will work on aluminum. You might want to try a suction cup
to gently pull it out. Automotive supply houses sell cheap suction pullers
that work well on "oil can" type dents, but they are probably too large (5")
diameter for a small dent. How about the small 2" suction cups that you
hang X-mas decorations on windows with? Just a thought -- I've never tired
it.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 9:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dropped the flaps
>
> Well, I've gone and done it. I was hanging my flaps (all done and
> polished) on the ceiling using a pulley system when I lost control and
> they dropped. I had a safety line that almost saved the day, but my right
> flap has a slightly bent corner (outboard) and a small dimple right in the
> middle of the top half.
>
> I should have asked my wife for help but you know how that goes. Anyway,
> it looks like I'm going to learn some skills in body repair. A quick look
> at auto body repair sites suggests that a little heat can sometimes raise
> a dent. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to go the
> filler route since I plan on them being polished.
>
> John [Evil or Very Mad]
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154705#154705
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dropped the flaps |
Aluminum is different than working with steel body panels. Here is a link t
hat is a good source for working and forming aluminum: http://www.tinmantec
h.com/index.php. If you do contact Ken directly make sure he knows your wor
king with 2024 T3 aluminum.
Vern Smith ( #324 doors & top)
> Subject: RV10-List: Dropped the flaps> From: johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> D
10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" > > Wel
l, I've gone and done it. I was hanging my flaps (all done and polished) on
the ceiling using a pulley system when I lost control and they dropped. I
had a safety line that almost saved the day, but my right flap has a slight
ly bent corner (outboard) and a small dimple right in the middle of the top
half.> > I should have asked my wife for help but you know how that goes.
Anyway, it looks like I'm going to learn some skills in body repair. A quic
k look at auto body repair sites suggests that a little heat can sometimes
raise a dent. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to go the
filler route since I plan on them being polished.> > John [Evil or Very Mad
]> > --------> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived> N711JG reserved> > > > > R
ead this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
==========> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Wayne,
Where did you get the black trim that you have on the interior door
frame to trim off the edge?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
First I would like to thank all the builders who have signed up for the
group buy. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving
you.
We hope you all have had a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
This is the final weekend of the Vansairforce group buy for our
Safety-Trim servo controller. Over 140 builders have signed up and
will receive the full $100 discount on the 2 axis controller and $50
discount on the single axis controller. If you haven't signed up yet
the promotion continues until the Dec 31.
Other important notes. We've added a few more applications notes on
our web site including details on the wiring harness available for use
with Safety-Trim. Lastly, we are now selling an airspeed switch that
is field adjustable between 55 and 140 knots and is perfect for
triggering the 2 speed function on Safety-Trim.
group buy link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning and Santa's gift |
Hey all.
I went ahead and pulled the bottom outboard skin off my first wing with the
oil canning in three of the bays. It takes about 4.5 hours to remove all t
he rivets. I went ahead and did this after speaking to Ken at Van's who sug
gested I don't even entertain the idea of replacing it. Well somethings jus
t will keep bugging me so I had to do it.
In the attachment is the rivetting pattern of the second wing. It should be
pretty clear. My result were great. I revetted it by myself, but I have lo
ng arms.
I always rivetted each rivet, one at a time in horizontal rows before movin
g down and doing the next rivet forward.
I really think the key is not only the rivetting pattern but trimming the s
kin edge, making sure the gun is not pushing the rib flanges in during sett
ing...as this will make the skin be on a smaller arc, taking up less skin,
thus and excess when one gets to the intersections of the LE skin and the r
ear skin.
Hope it helps.
JOhn G. 409.
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ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAKICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIAogICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAKPD94cGFja2V0IGVu
ZD0idyI/Pg0KZW5kc3RyZWFtDWVuZG9iag0zIDAgb2JqDTw8L0NyZWF0aW9uRGF0ZShEOjIwMDcx
MjI4MTk0NDQzLTA4JzAwJykvQ3JlYXRvciggQWRvYmUgUGhvdG9zaG9wIENTMyBXaW5kb3dzKS9Q
cm9kdWNlcihBZG9iZSBQaG90b3Nob3AgZm9yIFdpbmRvd3MgLS0gSW1hZ2UgQ29udmVyc2lvbiBQ
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IDQNCjAwMDAwMDAwMDAgNjU1MzUgZg0KMDAwMDA3MDA0MSAwMDAwMCBuDQowMDAwMDcwMDkyIDAw
MDAwIG4NCjAwMDAxMDk2OTQgMDAwMDAgbg0KdHJhaWxlcg0KPDwvU2l6ZSA0Pj4NCnN0YXJ0eHJl
Zg0KMTE2DQolJUVPRg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot Instructions |
I had to grind a bit off the pitot where it slides into the mount. I
used the scotchbrite wheel and took a small amount off at a time until
it fit snug. Pretty straight forward.
Dave Leikam
40496
Starting to rivet bottom wing skins ;- o
N89DA Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick ONeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 7:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm finally back to building now that the bulk of the holiday season
has passed.
Thank you very much Ralph, Dave, Tim and Ben for the info on the
Gretz! It was all very helpful! Hopefully this weekend I can put it
into practice.
Dave and Ben you both have done beautiful work. Great pictures and
links!
Did any of you have much trouble getting the pitot to fit the mount?
The instructions say the pitot may need to be ground to fit. In my
case, it looks like a substantial amount of grinding.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 6:56 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
Patrick,
I'll borrow a quote from John Cox for you on this "Make sure you take
off your builder hat and put on your repairman/serviceman hat.".
Although not technically that difficult to install think about
maintaining it after installation. I did not think about install or
location when I cut the holes for my bracket which I ended up putting it
in the stock Van's pitot location. It worked out ok but I had several
technical hurdles to overcome.
The copper tube coming out of the pitot tube itself came straight up
into the aileron torque tube requiring a healthy bend to maintain
clearance while the tube moved fore and aft. The mounting locations for
the circuit board in this location are sub optimal for ease of wire
installation and maintenance due to the aileron pushrod and bellcrank
parts. Think about threading the wires up through the pitot tube hole
and guiding them into their install location on the circuit board and
then tightening the miniature screws. You also have to secure the
aluminum pitot line to the copper line through an inspection hole after
installing the bottom wing skins.
Pictures of my installation can be found here:
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=wings|pitot
I ended up making short length wires and connectors that I could
attach to the circuit board prior to closing up the wing. I used a
locking 2 wire molex plug for the power wires and dean's plug for the
thermistor wires. My thoughts were to make the actual installation of
the tube into the finished wing easier. One thing to think about too is
what happens to moisture that may accumulate on the wires? The circuit
board should be on the top side of the wing so all wire runs coming out
of the unprotected holes are not subject to water droplets running down
the wires and into their attach points. I am considering encasing the
wires in silicone but have not yet done that.
If anyone has more questions or thinks I f'd something up please let
me know!
-Ben Westfall
#40579
N109LB (reserved)
PDX
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:56 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Instructions
I'm about ready to do the Gretz Pitot install and can't find my copy
of the instructions. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy? I
could not find one on he Gretz Aero site. I don't need the mounting
bracket instructions, those ones I found. I am looking for the one that
has the wiring diagrams for the pitot itself.
Also, is there any consensus as to which bay is optimal from the
standpoint of accuracy, ease of maintenance and tie-down clearance?
How have people been going about doing the cutout for the bottom skin?
The bracket instructions don't seem to provide any guidance for that
step.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/ N690CT
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning and Santa's gift |
OOps, the second #14 should be a #15, and the #15 should be a #16 and so on
. I duplicated the #14 twice.
Sorry,
JOhn G.
From: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List:
Oil Canning and Santa's giftDate: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 20:01:09 -0800
Hey all. I went ahead and pulled the bottom outboard skin off my first wing
with the oil canning in three of the bays. It takes about 4.5 hours to rem
ove all the rivets. I went ahead and did this after speaking to Ken at Van'
s who suggested I don't even entertain the idea of replacing it. Well somet
hings just will keep bugging me so I had to do it. In the attachment is the
rivetting pattern of the second wing. It should be pretty clear. My result
were great. I revetted it by myself, but I have long arms. I always rivet
ted each rivet, one at a time in horizontal rows before moving down and doi
ng the next rivet forward. I really think the key is not only the rivetting
pattern but trimming the skin edge, making sure the gun is not pushing the
rib flanges in during setting...as this will make the skin be on a smaller
arc, taking up less skin, thus and excess when one gets to the intersectio
ns of the LE skin and the rear skin. Hope it helps. JOhn G. 409.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I just returned both XRXs that I was sent. The first system had a power
issue such that it rebooted itself about o dozen times over about 6 hours of
usage. These occurred using four different power sources, two alternator
sources which should have been 13VDC+ , two batteries, and two different
power cords. I called the factory and they indicated that the unit should be
returned for warranty service. The replacement unit was immediately sent
from Marv Golden and it reset once on battery power and once on the
alternator. I came to the conclusion that the problem was probably a voltage
drop on the very small wire size used in the power cord; it is the same cord
as supplied for the MRX which uses about 20% of the XRX power. I believe the
reset problem can be fixed by Zaon using a properly sized power plug.
Some observations during use (5 flights)
Traffic was definitely easier to spot given the suggested bearing to the
traffic.
Identification of traffic below where the transponder antenna was shielded
by the target airframe, made traffic alerted late or not at all.
The second XRX also had the problem of identifying my aircraft transponder
as target traffic and display 0.0 NM 0 FT with the ALERT. This can be fixed
by the factory as it was on my MRX several years ago. My transponder antenna
was clean at the time.
The compass should definitabely be calibrated. Calibration can take place in
smooth air using the autopilot on GPS track of 000. It gives the "God's eye
view" proper orientation.
LCD display is more difficult to see (than MRX LED) with sunglasses and in
bright light
traffic distances differ between the MRX and XRX; visually the XRX seem to
be a little more accurate. The MRX seemed to show slightly larger distances.
Although the XRX will display on a GRT and other EFIS, I did not try because
I did not have the extra serial port required. Note however the display is
either not both. The traffic displayed on the EFIS is not duplicated on the
XRX; the XRX display shows a standard message identifying the EFIS.
In summary the XRX is an improvement on the MRX, just not a three times the
price improvement. I will continue to use the MRX to "wake me up" and keep
my eyes outside. Hope this helps some in their decision making. Now if
they ever come up with an economical GDL solution!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Hi Larry,
The interior person I used supplied it. He does custom cars also and I
think it's just the trim they use on the trunk and doors etc.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henkjan van der Zouw <henkjan(at)zme.nl> |
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Sorry, I was offline for a while,
I would like to sign up for the 2 axis (2 preset speeds) Safety trim
controller, is it still possible?
I'm also trying to get in touch with Steinair for a while, I need a fey
of their USB panel mount extension cables as well as a few minor things,
tried it more than a year ago but no response.
We met at Oshkosh 2007 in the RV10 headquarters and Stein introduced me
to Paul Story so I mailed him but no response as well, maybe my mail is
lost in spam..
Is there a way that someone helps me to get in touch?
Henkjan van der Zouw
RV10 #40355 finishing
Ps I'm receiving mail at henkjan(at)zme.nl
zme(at)zme.nl and info(at)zme.nl
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Bob-tcw
Verzonden: zaterdag 29 december 2007 0:29
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
First I would like to thank all the builders who have signed up for the
group buy. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving
you.
We hope you all have had a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
This is the final weekend of the Vansairforce group buy for our
Safety-Trim servo controller. Over 140 builders have signed up and
will receive the full $100 discount on the 2 axis controller and $50
discount on the single axis controller. If you haven't signed up yet
the promotion continues until the Dec 31.
Other important notes. We've added a few more applications notes on
our web site including details on the wiring harness available for use
with Safety-Trim. Lastly, we are now selling an airspeed switch that
is field adjustable between 55 and 140 knots and is perfect for
triggering the 2 speed function on Safety-Trim.
group buy link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: position rear Headset jacks |
Maybe Rick Gray can answer that one too if he is monitoring the list...he had some
nice trim as well....
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 2:08:05 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacks
Wayne,
Where did you get the black trim that you have on the interior door
frame to trim off the edge?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Stribling" <jlstrib(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | position rear Headset jacksposition rear Headset jacks |
Wayne,
I would like to see your photos as I am just now getting ready to install
the interior.
Thanks,
James Stribling
40140
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: position rear Headset jacksposition rear Headset
jacks
I had several builders request that I post some photos of my interior.
Rather than post them on Matronics I sent some to them diretc, because of
the number of pictures I sent them and the size limits on Matronics. If
anyone else would like to see my interior photos just e-mail me offline and
Ill forward them to you.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
do nor archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Henk, I tried to copy you on an e-mail I sent to Stein, but Outlook doesn't
recognize the .nl in your e-mail address. Do you have a .com address?
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van der
Zouw
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
Sorry, I was offline for a while,
I would like to sign up for the 2 axis (2 preset speeds) Safety trim
controller, is it still possible?
I'm also trying to get in touch with Steinair for a while, I need a fey of
their USB panel mount extension cables as well as a few minor things, tried
it more than a year ago but no response.
We met at Oshkosh 2007 in the RV10 headquarters and Stein introduced me to
Paul Story so I mailed him but no response as well, maybe my mail is lost in
spam..
Is there a way that someone helps me to get in touch?
Henkjan van der Zouw
RV10 #40355 finishing
Ps I'm receiving mail at henkjan(at)zme.nl
zme(at)zme.nl and info(at)zme.nl
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Bob-tcw
Verzonden: zaterdag 29 december 2007 0:29
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
First I would like to thank all the builders who have signed up for the
group buy. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving you.
We hope you all have had a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
This is the final weekend of the Vansairforce group buy for our Safety-Trim
servo controller. Over 140 builders have signed up and will receive the
full $100 discount on the 2 axis controller and $50 discount on the single
axis controller. If you haven't signed up yet the promotion continues
until the Dec 31.
Other important notes. We've added a few more applications notes on our
web site including details on the wiring harness available for use with
Safety-Trim. Lastly, we are now selling an airspeed switch that is field
adjustable between 55 and 140 knots and is perfect for triggering the 2
speed function on Safety-Trim.
group buy link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I too had to remove material for the tube to fit into the mount, but I
removed material from the inside of the mount instead of the tube. It
didn't take much, but a small sanding drum on the Dremmel tool did the
job. I figured the mount is fairly thick steel, and the tube is
expensive, and not steel, so logic told me to grind the mount a little,
and then paint on a little zinc chromate.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 |
Another milestone this morning. The trip to the airport was about 2 miles
at 0600 on city streets. All the other parts are ready at the hangaar.
Hopefully March.
Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0927
IMG_0932
IMG_0935
IMG_0938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 |
I take it is a relatively short trip to the airport. Now the fun begins,
the system checkouts. Good luck.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938
Another milestone this morning. The trip to the airport was about 2 miles
at 0600 on city streets. All the other parts are ready at the hangaar.
Hopefully March.
Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0927
IMG_0932
IMG_0935
IMG_0938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 |
Nice tow bar. Where did you get it?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938
Another milestone this morning. The trip to the airport was about 2 miles
at 0600 on city streets. All the other parts are ready at the hangaar.
Hopefully March.
Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0927
IMG_0932
IMG_0935
IMG_0938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 |
made it. threaded rod from McMaster Carr that was machined to catch the cap
screws.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 11:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938
-->
Nice tow bar. Where did you get it?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938
Another milestone this morning. The trip to the airport was about 2 miles
at 0600 on city streets. All the other parts are ready at the hangaar.
Hopefully March.
Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0927
IMG_0932
IMG_0935
IMG_0938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Static line and ADAHRS connection - where do you make it? |
I'm putting the static line in from the rear ports forward to the
panel. Do I need a 3 way fitting or something back in the battery area
to feed the ADAHRS box for a Chelton or other EFIS?
Just looking for a quick yes or no before I close up the RH baggage wall
and the static line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wayne's interior |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Wayne:
Why don't you send some of your interior photos to Tim Olson and we can
have him post them on his site for all to enjoy . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static line and ADAHRS connection - where do you make |
it?
The Cheltons have a MSU and a GADAHRS in addition to the screens. The
MSU only gets wires. The GADAHRS gets wires and Pitot and Static
connections. Tim has both units mounted in the rear. I am only
mounting the MSU in the back, the GADAHRS will be behind the panel.
Larry
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I'm putting the static line in from the rear ports forward to the
> panel. Do I need a 3 way fitting or something back in the battery
> area to feed the ADAHRS box for a Chelton or other EFIS?
> Just looking for a quick yes or no before I close up the RH baggage
> wall and the static line.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need wiring diagram for aileron trim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Hate to bug everybody but I installed the electric aileron trim and suddenly realized
I don't have a wiring diagram. Anybody have one or at least know which
wire is which? It's the standard Ray Allen trim servo from Vans.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155105#155105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Need wiring diagram for aileron trim |
What are you hooking it up to? Ray Allen indicator, GRT EFIS, etc.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need wiring diagram for aileron trim
Hate to bug everybody but I installed the electric aileron trim and suddenly
realized I don't have a wiring diagram. Anybody have one or at least know
which wire is which? It's the standard Ray Allen trim servo from Vans.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155105#155105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Need wiring diagram for aileron trim |
Here is a link to the Ray Allen page with their wiring diagrams.
http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACinfo/downloadpg.html
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need wiring diagram for aileron trim
Hate to bug everybody but I installed the electric aileron trim and suddenly
realized I don't have a wiring diagram. Anybody have one or at least know
which wire is which? It's the standard Ray Allen trim servo from Vans.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155105#155105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Started the task of removing the gear weldments yesterday and found the first
one to be as much "fun" as anticipated. Thinking ahead to the reinstall process,
I am curious about the procedure to get bolts back in. They were so tight coming
out, that I can't imagine they will go in easily. How does one apply the
force necessary to install those bolts? John Ackerman, you mentioned grinding
down the old bolts and using them as guide pins. Could you elaborate? Any pics?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155133#155133
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
David;
You can put some LP 3 on the bolts to help them slide in. Just clean
off the threads before you put the washer and nut on.
Fred
40515.
Fun with fiberglass... Wheel pants almost done.
Had the pleasure of meeting Mark Ritter and seeing his 10 this weekend
at the cafe in Brenham, Texas.
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Started the task of removing the gear weldments yesterday and found the first
one to be as much "fun" as anticipated. Thinking ahead to the reinstall process,
I am curious about the procedure to get bolts back in. They were so tight
coming out, that I can't imagine they will go in easily. How does one apply the
force necessary to install those bolts? John Ackerman, you mentioned grinding
down the old bolts and using them as guide pins. Could you elaborate? Any pics?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155133#155133
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need wiring diagram for aileron trim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Rene',
Thanks, that's what I needed. I wanted to know if the white wires needed to be
bigger but the 1 amp c/b gave me the answer. I was also curious if the colored
wires might have needed to be bigger, as well. I was getting ready to order
larger wire for the pitot heat and I didn't want to be short. Thanks again.
John
rene(at)felker.com wrote:
> Here is a link to the Ray Allen page with their wiring diagrams.
>
> http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACinfo/downloadpg.html
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> --
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155183#155183
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sarasota info |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
General Information:
Cockpit Cafe
400 East Airport Ave, Venice, FL 34285
Phone: 941-484-5428
Email: cockpitcafe(at)yahoo.com
Airport: Venice Municipal Airport (VNC)
Website
Comments:
The Cockpit Caf=C3=A9 was voted by the Sarasota Herald-Tribune Reader
=99s Choice for the BEST CUBAN SANDWICH! The Cockpit Caf=C3=A9, located at t
he Venice Airport (VNC) is owned and operated by European trained chef, Jard
a Hornacek and his wife Kirsten. Ingredients are prepared fresh daily and fe
ature a variety of homemade soups, the "98% Cuban Sandwich", the ever-popula
r =9CCzechwiches=9D and breakfasts served your way. Try the bana
na-walnut stuffed pancakes and you=99ll feel like you=99re in fi
rst class, while only paying coach prices. The Cockpit Caf=C3=A9 also holds
the distinction of winning the =9CHundred Dollar Hamburger=9D pi
lots choice award. While enjoying your meal, you can look out the window and
see the bald eagles that make their home in the navigation tower as well as
watch the planes take off and land. The caf=C3=A9 serves breakfast and lunc
h from 7am-2pm. Open 7 days a week.
Here is some info, I believe someone was asking about Sarasota a short time
ago.
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________
aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Happy New Year and thanks for a great 2007! |
With the passing of the old year and the start of the new, I just wanted to
thank everyone on the list for helping 2007 be a wonderful year!
As 2008 begins with a large part of an RV-10 in my garage (the first such
year for myself) I think back to the many things I had to go through to get
here. Without this list, it would have been a much harder journey and I'm
sure nowhere near enjoyable as it has been. My thanks go out to all of you.
Here's wishing for a great 2008 to all the RV-10 builders and enjoyable and
safe first flights for all the RV-10's that will be flying before the New
Year graces us again!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
Here's what I did:
Hacksawed off the bolt heads to make pins out of the bolts.
Filed cut end more-or-less flat -just a few strokes were needed. You
can chuck the pin in a drill press to do this, but it's not really
necessary.
Ground off the threads, holding the pin in a drill, and rotating
opposite to the wheel. Made the (previously) threaded end into a
bullet-like shape. Not quite as blunt as a pistol bullet ' say a .45
ACP round nose ' but not sharp like a high velocity bullet,either.
This is not terribly critical, but the idea is for the pin to work
its way into two slightly misaligned holes, drawing them in alignment
with a lot of motion (small mechanical advantage) at first, and a
small amount of motion (large force) as the pin gets in farther.
Eyeballing the shape gave a product that was good enough to work very
well.
Polished on a fine Scotchbrite wheel.
Covered the pins with grease, wiping off excess. I used Lubriplate,
but I doubt it matters.
Placed weldment in position.
Pushed all the pins into the holes, pushing the pins in a little at
a time, going from pin to pin, tapping as required. Hardly any
tapping was needed on mine. YMMV.
Used the new bolts to push pins on through, tapping as required -
again not much.
This whole process did not take very long. You only need one set of
pins ' probably not even a full set because the first bolt is put in
while the parts are free to move.
I was worried about clearing the rear spar structure as the pins were
pushed on through, but they all fell out the other side without
hitting anything. You may want to check pin lengths before inserting
them and shorten if/as required.
As I recall, I had to use a swivel socket to get on the nuts, and a
long extension for reach.
Like you, I had a very hard time removing the bolts. I recall it was
difficult getting past the floor skin, as well.
Bolting the weldment back was a piece of cake. The pins moved it into
alignment and kept that alignment while the bolts displaced them.
I'm quite sure the bolt threads did not damage the holes and vice versa.
Hope this is useful.
Happy new year!
John and Marlys 40458
On Dec 31, 2007, at 4:10 AM, dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Started the task of removing the gear weldments yesterday and
> found the first one to be as much "fun" as anticipated. Thinking
> ahead to the reinstall process, I am curious about the procedure to
> get bolts back in. They were so tight coming out, that I can't
> imagine they will go in easily. How does one apply the force
> necessary to install those bolts? John Ackerman, you mentioned
> grinding down the old bolts and using them as guide pins. Could you
> elaborate? Any pics?
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: [gns480-users] Software, Version 2.2 |
Well.........there goes my avionics selections.........
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Donald Kaye <donkaye(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 1, 2008 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [gns480-users] Software, Version 2.2
Originally I thought it might be a hoax, but with Keith Thomassen
responding, I fear it might be true that the Garmin 480, one of the
best GPSs I have flown, is being discontinued.
> From: Keith Thomassen <thomassen(at)avionicswest.com>
>
> Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 09:59:31
> To:gns480-users(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [gns480-users] Software, Version 2.2
>
>
> John; After seeing the post on the discontinuation of the 480, I'm
> not sure if there will be a software update. In any event, I don't
> know what else was planned. I'm totally shocked, sad, and
> disappointed with Garmin.
>
> Keith
>
----
Donald Kaye | Master CFI, MEI
mailto:donkaye(at)earthlink.net | N9148W M20M
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint scheme program for RV-10 |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
By request of myself and a few others, armed with the schematic diagrams of the
RV-10 from the DXF file posted elsewhere, William Busto has added the RV-10 to
his aircraft paint simulation programs. According to his message to me today:
The new MACD RV-10 Version 2.2 color scheme program is now ready for download.
Version 2.2 adds the ability to design your own custom graphics for the wheel
pants. The RV-10s cabin interior color, including the seat colors, can be customized
to your taste. Another new feature is that you can open the cabin door.
This makes it easy to coordinate the interior colors.
You can download the new program from Client Downloads, if you wish, as a free
upgrade for previous customers. New customers will need to purchase the program.
The software trial and download and RV-10 design base are available at:
http://www.airplanecolor.com
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155462#155462
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint scheme program for RV-10 |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
What a great News Years Day gift. Thank you and thank William as well.
John Cox
#40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddnebert
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint scheme program for RV-10
By request of myself and a few others, armed with the schematic diagrams of the
RV-10 from the DXF file posted elsewhere, William Busto has added the RV-10 to
his aircraft paint simulation programs. According to his message to me today:
The new MACD RV-10 Version 2.2 color scheme program is now ready for download.
Version 2.2 adds the ability to design your own custom graphics for the wheel
pants. The RV-10s cabin interior color, including the seat colors, can be customized
to your taste. Another new feature is that you can open the cabin door.
This makes it easy to coordinate the interior colors.
You can download the new program from Client Downloads, if you wish, as a free
upgrade for previous customers. New customers will need to purchase the program.
The software trial and download and RV-10 design base are available at:
http://www.airplanecolor.com
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155462#155462
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Am I stupid or am I missing something
I know that it would be a good idea to check the QB work and have a placement for
my MB and transponder antennas, but why take up the floorboards. I think that
they are already primed. Carpet with some foam backing will provide front insulation.....
splain me
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155468#155468
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint scheme program for RV-10 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
How much $ and does it run on a PC or Mac only??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155469#155469
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint scheme program for RV-10 |
after 15 day trail looks like $14.95
Version 2.2 - System Requirements
a.. Pentium 400 Mhz PC, 128 MB memory, mouse, joystick, 17 inch monitor or
better.
a.. Windows XP/2000/Me/98/95 with DirectX 8.0 or higher.
a.. Windows VISTA is not compatible with MACD Version 2
Due to changes in the new operating system by Microsoft, MACD will not
install
properly on Windows Vista. A fix for this problem may be available soon.
a.. A DirectX 8.0 compatible Graphics Adapter with 3D hardware acceleration.
Any PC, built from the year 2001 until now, should already have 3D hardware
acceleration built in. If not, MACD V 2.2 will display a message for you.
The free trial program will also inform you. You can download the free trial
here.
a.. Windows XP users already have DirectX 8.0 or higher installed in their
systems so an upgrade is not required.
a.. Users of Windows 95/98/Me/2000 will need to upgrade to DirectX 8 or 9,
if you haven't done so already. DirectX is a free download from the
Microsoft DirectX website.
a.. Please download the free trial program if you're not sure that your
system meets the requirements. It will display a message for you if it
doesn't.
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Paint scheme program for RV-10
>
> How much $ and does it run on a PC or Mac only??
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155469#155469
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
AirMike wrote:
> Am I stupid or am I missing something
>
> I know that it would be a good idea to check the QB work and have a placement
for my MB and transponder antennas, but why take up the floorboards. I think
that they are already primed. Carpet with some foam backing will provide front
insulation..... splain me
AirMike,
I've wondered the same thing myself. If inspection is the only purpose, then why
not cut an inspection port? Make it large enough to get your hand in and you
have access to install antennas. To close the port up, get one of those plastic
round caps the post office uses for tube mailers. If strength is degraded,
then screw a top plate on it.
To me it's like the QB wings: the bottom skin was put on by the QB folks so that
you can't easily rivet the flap fairings. Big deal, that's what CherryMax rivets
are for.
Just my opinion,
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155532#155532
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I'm surprised the 480 lasted this long.
I always thought that the government should have examined the Garmin
purchase of UPSAT for anti-competitive effects.
L-3 (Goodrich) really blew it and should have bought UPSAT. They would
have inherited some nice revenue streams and some nice radios right off
the bat.
TDT
40025
Main wheelpants done!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
"Non plaudite. Modo pecuniam jacite."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Not lasting is one thing, not supporting it is another. Software upgrades I
'm not so concerned about as long as mine remains functional, databases upg
rades from Jepp=C2-I am concerned about.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Dawson-Townsend" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2008 7:48:40 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 480
I=99m surprised the 480 lasted this long.
I always thought that the government should have examined the Garmin purcha
se of UPSAT for anti-competitive effects.=C2-
L-3 (Goodrich) really blew it and should have bought UPSAT.=C2- They woul
d have inherited some nice revenue streams and some nice radios right off t
he bat.
TDT
40025
Main wheelpants done!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
"Non plaudite. Modo pecuniam jacite."
====
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm sure there are plenty of us in that boat. All we can do is look to
other products (like the GX-50 & GX-60) which still get Jepp DB support
even though they were abandoned when the acquisition of UPSAT by Garmin
was completed.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480
Not lasting is one thing, not supporting it is another. Software
upgrades I'm not so concerned about as long as mine remains functional,
databases upgrades from Jepp I am concerned about.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Dawson-Townsend" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2008 7:48:40 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 480
I'm surprised the 480 lasted this long.
I always thought that the government should have examined the Garmin
purchase of UPSAT for anti-competitive effects.
L-3 (Goodrich) really blew it and should have bought UPSAT. They would
have inherited some nice revenue streams and some nice radios right off
the bat.
TDT
40025
Main wheelpants done!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
"Non plaudite. Modo pecuniam jacite."
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
It's probably safe to say that as long as the demand is there, Jepp will co
ntinue updates. One of the few advantages to having a outside supplier for
the updated database. Happy New Year everyone!
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Garmin 480
I'm sure there are plenty of us in that boat. All we can do is look to oth
er products (like the GX-50 & GX-60) which still get Jepp DB support even t
hough they were abandoned when the acquisition of UPSAT by Garmin was compl
eted.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480
Not lasting is one thing, not supporting it is another. Software upgrades I
'm not so concerned about as long as mine remains functional, databases upg
rades from Jepp I am concerned about.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Dawson-Townsend" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2008 7:48:40 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 480
I'm surprised the 480 lasted this long.
I always thought that the government should have examined the Garmin purcha
se of UPSAT for anti-competitive effects.
L-3 (Goodrich) really blew it and should have bought UPSAT. They would hav
e inherited some nice revenue streams and some nice radios right off the ba
t.
TDT
40025
Main wheelpants done!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
"Non plaudite. Modo pecuniam jacite."
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/2/2008 12:56:02 PM Central Standard Time,
bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com writes:
All we can do is look to other products (like the GX-50 & GX-60) which still
get Jepp DB support even though they were abandoned when the acquisition of
UPSAT by Garmin was completed.
Or the 300xl from Garmin that Jepp still sells updates to...
P
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, I went and pulled the bedsheets off of my QB Fuselage and took a good look.
A total of 12 pull rivets holding down each of the aft passenger floorboards.
I can see where it would be tricky to pull it because of all the AN470 rivet
heads, etc. I'll go through the plans tomorrow and figure out what's underneath.
There must be something I'm missing because I don't see why it's such a problem.
I'll get back tomorrow.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155616#155616
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I figure it
would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items in the tail
while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I was thinking about
running conduit through the bulkheads down one side and pre running wires
within it (or at least string).
Items for wiring
Nav Antenna
Tail Nav light
Tail Strobe light
Pitch Trim Servo wiring
ELT
Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Weight after paint |
921AC is out of the paint shop (a couple weeks ago, actually). I like the
way it turned out. It's not a show winner but the overall quality is good
and the weight is less than expected. We'll have some better pictures up
soon.
I decided to polish the wings instead of painting, mostly to save weight. I
had another polished plane and it held up pretty well.
The white paint is Jet Glow single stage. The yellow and gray are
color/clear coat.
I weighed the plane right before and after. With an average amount of body
work and filling, the empty weight went from 1588 to 1598. I think painting
the wings would have added another 10 lbs at least. This was a lot less
than I expected. I've weighed a few others before and after, and I was
expecting more like 20-25 lbs.
I set a goal of 1600 for the empty weight, so after the interior goes in
later this month, I'm now hoping it won't be much more than 1625. Close
enough.
Happy New Year!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the
right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff.
My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't
buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
neat... but I'll do better next time.
I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim (just
in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT hoping
there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest tech
standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna.
Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure
out later. Just a choice.
Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I figure
> it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items in the
> tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I was
> thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one side and
> pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>
>
>
> Items for wiring
>
>
>
> Nav Antenna
>
> Tail Nav light
>
> Tail Strobe light
>
> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>
> ELT
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>
>
>
> -Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I
live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting
the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the
Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar
(?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the
replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said).
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
"$250." ????
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I
live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting
the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the
Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar
(?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the
replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said).
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight after paint |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Very nice looking Dave. When I first looked, I thought the lower part of the fuse
was polished as well. Did you consider doing that?
It looks to me like this is the airplane that has the left aft upper cowling hinged.
How has that worked for you and do you have any drawings, plans, tips, etc.
that you can share. I am interested in that mod.
Regards,
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155746#155746
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> "$250." ????
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ---
My guess is that it's only the chip. For those guys who already have one, it looks
like the update chips will keep on coming.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155831#155831
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling
any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick
Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing
out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell
me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco
could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question.
As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access.
I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good
reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
Humbly and ready to take some shots,
John
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#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
- - - , 20- - January 03, 2008
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