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January 15, 2008 - January 30, 2008

Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows Installation Chuck: I have completed the four windows and so far they have come out well (no flight or weather stress). I used epoxy/flox (slow cure) as the adhesive and a strapping system to hold the windows in place while they cured ( I used 4 on each window). The strapping was just simple thin cargo straps wrapped around the plane but using multiple soft blocks (rubber sanding pads) at multiple locations between the straps and windows to ensure a tight fit at all 360 degrees around the window. I had previously doubled taped (electrical) the windows at the edges----one layer corresponding to the inside rim of the window recess fiberglass and the second about 1/8 inch outward from the first. After curing I filled in any remaining gaps between fiberglass and window with a epoxy/flox/filler mix and then sanded that junction smooth. (The electrical tape, if you are careful, can take quite a beating and not be disturbed.). I then put two layers of fiberglass over the junction----the first layer being about 1 inch wide and the 2nd maybe 1 1/2 wide but sanded smooth between layers. The second layer abutted the outside (top) layer of tape. When I was happy with how well the result blended in with the fuselage I then removed the top layer of tape and very carefully feathered in the fiberglass on that side. I will then paint to the edge of the 2nd layer of tape. All the above was not my original idea but a combination of suggestions from various sources (Dave Saylor, David Jones, Deems, and others). Hope this helps. Jay Rowe #40301 (just finishing FWF) ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Weyant To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 6:45 PM Subject: RV10-List: Windows Installation I have just spent two hours researching info on window installation and cleanup for the "Ten". I've learned that acetone is not the best thing to use (crazing, cracking), mineral spirits leave a "oily" residue, and alcohol hardly touches Weld On. Okay then, what to use for cleanup? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 15, 2008
Chuck, I completed the windows and windscreen with the help of 2 local composite pros who have done a lot of Lancair work. Now that I have seen how the pros do it, it is not nearly so intimidating. We used Hysol EA9360 available from www.aerospace.henkel.com or its dealers. Actually a Loctite product. My understanding is that Hysol is the adhesive Lancair uses for pressurized windows, wings, etc. After taping the inner surface of the windows with 2 layers of electrical tape we painted the exposed window edge and the outer surface of the cabin flange with Hysol. Then added flox to the Hysol till we had a peanut butter consistency; applied that about 1/8" thick to the flange. We had at least 1 hour working time with the Hysol, so there was no rush. Positioned the window on the flange and clecoed in place with fender washers about every 1.5" The washers are easier than making the al. fingers some have used, and they put the pressure right on the edge of the window where you want it. You want a little squeeze out of the flox both inside and outside. Predrill the holes for the clecos before mixing the Hysol. While one person clecos around the edge of the window, a second person inside carefully scrapes off the squeeze out flush with the edge of the flange. Don't worry about squeeze out on the outside till it cures, when you can grind or chisel off the excess. After smoothing the cured Hysol on the outside you will probably have some minor irregularities which can be filled with flox. We applied a 2 bid layer of glass to the outside using a trick I have not seen mentioned here before. Maybe that is because I am the only one who didn't know about it. We positioned 2 layers of electrical tape on the outside of the window so that the outer edge matched the inner edge of the flange per usual. Then temporarily taped a layer of clear painters plastic to the cabin top so that it draped smoothly over the window. With a Sharpie carefully mark the outer edge of the electrical tape so that you have a good template of the window flange. Mark the outer edge of this template where you want the edge of the glass to fall. We made separate pieces for each corner of the window, with additional straight strips connecting the corner pieces.You want to end up with a template about 2-2.5" wide that exactly matches the window flange. Don't cut out the pieces yet. We wound up with 7-8 pieces for each window. Remove the clear plastic, place it on your cutting table and begin to wet out 2 layers of glass on top of the template. The Sharpie lines will show through. Orient the glass diagonally on the template so that the corner curves cut smoothly. Place a second layer of clear plastic on top of the wetted glass and squeegy(sp) out the excess. Cut out 1 piece of your template, peel off the bottom layer of plastic, and position the wetted cloth on the window. Focus your efforts on getting the cloth positioned exactly up to the edge of the electrical tape. If you take care with this step you will wind up with a nearly finished edge that needs very little clean up. Take your time with this. Even with the help of guys who have done this many times before we still have 20 man hours in doing all the windows, but they look really slick. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158352#158352 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windows Installation
Date: Jan 15, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Marlys and John We use the 3M 2216 (at the airlines) with great success at adhesion between sheets of stainless steel being bonded over honeycomb composite shelf material when repairing galleys and restrooms. It has a slow cure time and is not real happy with a cooler than specified ambient air temperature during cure (Closely read the specification sheet). Once mature, it is rock solid with those two dissimilar products. One of the disadvantages of the 2216 it has the consistency of honey beckoning for a Thixotrophic additive to turn it into peanut butter for this vertical application. If you haven't purchased the product yet, I would give a "Second Motion" to Jim Berry's recommendation of Hysol EA9360. There are lots of examples and flight miles logged with the Lancair fleet. (I can even offer a picture of the delamination of a pressurized IVP window from more than FL200 if you think the adhesive and technique is not that important.) No opinion on Sika-flex 295 for a couple more years of "in the field" RV-10 reports. Dave Saylor needs to pipe in here. Build it Once - Fly Safe - Live Long John Cox 40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 8:19 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows Installation Hey, folks We're coming up on the same decision... For those who have chosen to use Sika-flex 295 UV, what do you think of it by now? It seems to me like a natural choice for our windows. Does anybody have information to the contrary? How about experience with 3M 2216? Marlys and John Ackerman 40458 On Jan 14, 2008, at 4:45 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote: I have just spent two hours researching info on window installation and cleanup for the "Ten". I've learned that acetone is not the best thing to use (crazing, cracking), mineral spirits leave a "oily" residue, and alcohol hardly touches Weld On. Okay then, what to use for cleanup? I glued in one window yesterday. Not entirely happy with the results. Far from 100 per cent flange adhesion, even with modest weights added per Van's instructions to the window (areas of window and fiberglass flange not mated, some might call them bubbles?) Perhaps this is acceptable? Is everyone using strips of fiberglass over the exterior window/fiberglass joint ? If so, why? To hold the window in place, to make a smoother transition from plexi to fiberglass, both? I'm using the stuff Van's recommended for adhesive, Weld-On, and not much inclined to change to something else unless Van's says so, but this stuff is hard to handle and harder to clean up. I'm not a total rooky at this building stuff, finished one RV9A that turned out really nice, but I'm at my wits end with these windows. Any advice would be appreciated. Chuck http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Windows Installation
Date: Jan 15, 2008
I've been playing with a sample of Hysol EA9360, but have not settled on wh ich adhesive I will use, so this is a great discussion. The following link may be of value to others, it's Lancair's chapter on installing the rear wi ndow in a Legacy: http://www.lancair.com/Main/builders_only/Legacy%20Manual /Chapter%2025-Aft%20Windows.pdf One difference between the RV10 and a pressurized Lancair IVP is they glue their windows to the inside of the fuselage. Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows InstallationDate: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:38:19 Marlys and John We use the 3M 2216 (at the airlines) with great success at adhesion between sheets of stainless steel being bonded over honeycomb composite shelf mate rial when repairing galleys and restrooms. It has a slow cure time and is not real happy with a cooler than specified ambient air temperature during cure (Closely read the specification sheet). Once mature, it is rock solid with those two dissimilar products. One of the disadvantages of the 2216 it has the consistency of honey beckoning for a Thixotrophic additive to tu rn it into peanut butter for this vertical application. If you haven=92t purchased the product yet, I would give a =93Second Motion =94 to Jim Berry=92s recommendation of Hysol EA9360. There are lots of exa mples and flight miles logged with the Lancair fleet. (I can even offer a picture of the delamination of a pressurized IVP window from more than FL20 0 if you think the adhesive and technique is not that important.) No opinion on Sika-flex 295 for a couple more years of =93in the field=94 R V-10 reports. Dave Saylor needs to pipe in here. Build it Once ' Fly Safe ' Live Long John Cox 40600 _________________________________________________________________ Make distant family not so distant with Windows Vista=AE + Windows Live=99. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/digitallife/keepintouch.mspx?ocid=TXT_TA GLM_CPC_VideoChat_distantfamily_012008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windows Installation
Date: Jan 15, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The RV-10 Family is SO Great!. Thanks Vern ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 1:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows Installation I've been playing with a sample of Hysol EA9360, but have not settled on which adhesive I will use, so this is a great discussion. The following link may be of value to others, it's Lancair's chapter on installing the rear window in a Legacy: http://www.lancair.com/Main/builders_only/Legacy%20Manual/Chapter%2025-A ft%20Windows.pdf One difference between the RV10 and a pressurized Lancair IVP is they glue their windows to the inside of the fuselage. Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) ________________________________ ________________________________ Make distant family not so distant with Windows Vista(r) + Windows Live(tm). Start now! <http://www.microsoft.com/windows/digitallife/keepintouch.mspx?ocid=TXT _ TAGLM_CPC_VideoChat_distantfamily_012008> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 2008
From: "Bill Judge" <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
Something to consider on the window installation is rain peeling up the transition from plexi to epoxy on the upper edge of the windscreen. I have an RV-8 and I thought I had sufficiently scuffed the plexi before laying down the epoxy and glass weave. October I flew through about an hour's worth of moderate rain and about 70% of the area at the top of the wind screen was delaminated back up to 3/4". I don't have paint yet so the fix won't be too painful. I talked with a lancair builder and they don't really have a good fix and their cruise speeds are much higher. I used Sika all the way around my canopy and windscreen with good results so I'm thinking about using he Sika primer to prep the plexi before I lay new glass back down on the damaged area. Bill RV-8, N84WJ 205 hrs. rv-8.blogspot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: 14" spinner
Date: Jan 16, 2008
Nice advertising! > Subject: RE: RV10-List: 14" spinner> Date: Wed, 16 Jan om>> > Hi Thane:> > I don't have a recommendation, but I thought you'd like to know that the> engine was tested on the dyno yesterday. It did great - 288 hp! It> will ship to you today! > > Best,> > Rhonda> > -----Original Me ssage-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10- list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States> Sent: Tuesday, Januar y 15, 2008 5:23 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: 14" sp net>> > Just wanted to ask the group if anyone knows a source for the 14"> spinner > required for the James Cowl? It is to bad that the cowl was not> designed > and released with an affordable spinner included.> Thanks for an y info, so far I have come up short online with e-mail > requests.> Regards ,> Thane States> Engine is on the way as are many other expensive goodies!! ===========> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 16, 2008
Subject: Re: 14" spinner
In a message dated 1/16/2008 11:42:10 AM Central Standard Time, indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com writes: Nice advertising! Don't think Rhonda needs to toot their horn...John **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 14" spinner
Date: Jan 16, 2008
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
CHEAP advertising at that!! Good oops :-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 11:44 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 14" spinner In a message dated 1/16/2008 11:42:10 AM Central Standard Time, indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com writes: Nice advertising! Don't think Rhonda needs to toot their horn...John ________________________________ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
Date: Jan 16, 2008
I had the same problem on my Glasair III. I tried lots of stuff but the only thing that worked is the clear Ureathane tape used on Radomes and leading edges of wings. Cut a thin strip and wrap it around the windscreen. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Judge Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows Installation Something to consider on the window installation is rain peeling up the transition from plexi to epoxy on the upper edge of the windscreen. I have an RV-8 and I thought I had sufficiently scuffed the plexi before laying down the epoxy and glass weave. October I flew through about an hour's worth of moderate rain and about 70% of the area at the top of the wind screen was delaminated back up to 3/4". I don't have paint yet so the fix won't be too painful. I talked with a lancair builder and they don't really have a good fix and their cruise speeds are much higher. I used Sika all the way around my canopy and windscreen with good results so I'm thinking about using he Sika primer to prep the plexi before I lay new glass back down on the damaged area. Bill RV-8, N84WJ 205 hrs. rv-8.blogspot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Gear and Nose Leg Fairings TE closure
Date: Jan 16, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
-----Original Message----- From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman(at)cablespeed.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 9:39 PM Subject: FW: RE: RV10-List: Gear and Nose Leg Fairings TE closure John, Would you mind forwarding this on to the website? I thought I was subscribed - they are sending me the webmail - but they then rejected the posting with the message I am not subscribed. Thanks, John Barrett -----Original Message----- From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman(at)cablespeed.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 9:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gear and Nose Leg Fairings TE closure I don't want to answer for John Cox, but he asked me how I thought Carbinge would work as a fix for a situation where aluminum hinge material that was riveted to composite material and holding some sort of a door had begun to come apart because the rivets were working on the composite and no longer holding the part securely. I have not seen the application and actually am not sure if I have all the details correct in my mind. However, I do know that Carbinge (graphite hinge) bonded into place is a much more superior method of hinging two composite surfaces over using aluminum hinges and rivets. If one of the surfaces is aluminum you can still use Carbinge and use Hysol to bond the graphite to the aluminum. The oxidation layer should be thoroughly removed from the aluminum within a minute or two of bonding. This can be done with fine sandpaper followed by acetone cleanup. You can and probably should buttress this application with a strong rivet at either end of the aluminum part to avoid the potential for the bond to begin to peel in response to vibration over time. I hope this helps and I hope someone can enlighten me on any misreading I have of the problem as I would like to help any way I can. Regards, John Barrett, CEO Barrett/Garrett Enterprises, Inc. PO Box 428 Port Hadlock, WA 98339 www.carbinge.com 1/14/2008 5:39 PM 1/14/2008 5:39 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Jan 16, 2008
I remember an article in the RVator awhile back about some guy who used suction cups on the inside of the window and wired them to an anchor somewhere in the center of the plane to get added/better pressure on the window. I know McMaster Carr sells suction cups rated for up to 50 pounds - may place about about 6-8 of the 30 pounders around the window and tie them back to somewhere to really get a good seal... Seemed like a good idea. Haven't tried it though. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158639#158639 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
Date: Jan 16, 2008
If one has access to a vacuum pump, vacuum bagging would work the best, pro blem would be using the right amount of material so that so much excess doe sn't get squeezed out. Isolation of the non bonded areas would be critical as would be when the bag could be opened to access for cleanup with out the bond being compromised John G.> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows Installation> From: jonathan.w.rei ning(at)wellsfargo.com> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 14:24:20 -0800> To: rv10-list@m reining(at)wellsfargo.com>> > I remember an article in the RVator awhile back about some guy who used suction cups on the inside of the window and wired them to an anchor somewhere in the center of the plane to get added/better pressure on the window. I know McMaster Carr sells suction cups rated for u p to 50 pounds - may place about about 6-8 of the 30 pounders around the wi ndow and tie them back to somewhere to really get a good seal... Seemed lik e a good idea. Haven't tried it though.> > > > > Read this topic online her e:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158639#158639> > > > > ==> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 16, 2008
Regarding solvents and their use on plexi - keep anything with ketones away from the plexiglass. They are very detrimental and can etch the surface. Ketones can be recognized by the "tone" ending in the name (acetone, methyl-ethyl ketone (MEK)) and are found in paint thinners and other solvents. Naphtha, sometimes called white gas or Coleman lamp fuel, is safe. I made the mistake of using a vinyl ester resin on my RV-6 canopy and got numerous hair line cracks. Polyester resin is also a no-no, but epoxy is OK. I would be cautious (ie. not use) Bondo or any other polyester product near the glass. The high tech adhesives mentioned are all OK as far as I can tell. Thanks for all of the good info. -------- Dave RV-6 flying RV-10 QB building Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158700#158700 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wing tips
From: "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com>
Date: Jan 16, 2008
A technique from a fellow builder - don't use a dimple die! Be sure the holes are cleaned/deburred, and then use the screw to do the dimpling. It will deform it perfectly. I recommend using a steel screw to pilot the dimpling. Try it and see what you think. Doug Nebert -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158701#158701 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Aircraft Mutual Benefit
Date: Jan 16, 2008
Whatever happened to Aircraft Mutual Benefit? My project is getting much closer to turning into an airplane so my interest in insurance is rising. Sheldon Olesen #40080 Prepping for paint ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Static Ports
Date: Jan 16, 2008
A long time ago I purchased and installed the Cleaveland static ports. Well today I passed my pitot/static certification after a little trouble shooting of a static leak. When I put the ports in I did not use any type of sealant between the port and the skin. Because of that, when the tester was attached to the air frame I was getting a leak from around the port. Once we figured out what was leaking, it was easy to fix. Just taped over the port, punched a hole in the tape, and reattached the tester. One more step to certification. Rene' N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Aircraft Mutual Benefit
Date: Jan 16, 2008
Kaput. not enough interest (money commitments). Checks returned. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 9:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Mutual Benefit Whatever happened to Aircraft Mutual Benefit? My project is getting much closer to turning into an airplane so my interest in insurance is rising. Sheldon Olesen #40080 Prepping for paint ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wing tips
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Hey Doug, I assume you mean to screw into the nut plate already in the wingtip fairing as the female die. Good idea, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it does. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158738#158738 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 14" spinner
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 17, 2008
UHS sells a 14 inch spinner, has reasonable prices, and they will do custom work. I don't know if it will fit your needs, but I have one of their 13inch spinners and it is very nice. http://www.uhsspinners.com Steve Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158743#158743 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
BTDT. The method works in a pinch where the dimple die won't reach and the metal is thin enough. However it has the disadvantage of damaging the aluminum layer of the ALCLAD, exposing the internal metal to corrosion. Much better to grind the edge from a dimple set to ensure that the dimple is set to the proper depth without scarring the adjacent metal. Case in point is the nut plate for the wing fairing on the bottom skin between the main spar (gear leg in place); use the screw method there. Also use of the screws is going to strip out a few and potentially leave some in the nut plate for practice with the misnamed "easy out" tool. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips Hey Doug, I assume you mean to screw into the nut plate already in the wingtip fairing as the female die. Good idea, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it does. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158738#158738 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Mutual Benefit
David McNeill wrote: > >Kaput. not enough interest (money commitments). Checks returned. > That's too bad. It's a great concept. From my viewpoint ...... I didn't see any 'call to arms' ...... so the lackluster interest just could be caused by poor communication. I, for one, would have poneyed up some funds ...... and I'm in the middle of the build process. The pool of 'really interested' (read the flying group) is rather small yet. Linn > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen >Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 9:02 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Mutual Benefit > > >Whatever happened to Aircraft Mutual Benefit? My project is getting >much closer to turning into an airplane so my interest in insurance is >rising. > > >Sheldon Olesen > >#40080 Prepping for paint > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
You can do it with one or two sacrificial nutplates before they are riveted on and just clecoed in place. Also if you are worried about scratching the alclad put a piece of blue tape over it. Yeah it will take a while but should work. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:21 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: wing tips BTDT. The method works in a pinch where the dimple die won't reach and the metal is thin enough. However it has the disadvantage of damaging the aluminum layer of the ALCLAD, exposing the internal metal to corrosion. Much better to grind the edge from a dimple set to ensure that the dimple is set to the proper depth without scarring the adjacent metal. Case in point is the nut plate for the wing fairing on the bottom skin between the main spar (gear leg in place); use the screw method there. Also use of the screws is going to strip out a few and potentially leave some in the nut plate for practice with the misnamed "easy out" tool. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips Hey Doug, I assume you mean to screw into the nut plate already in the wingtip fairing as the female die. Good idea, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it does. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158738#158738 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Also, if you tap the sacrificial nut plate first it makes it a lot easier. Rene' Felker N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:53 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: wing tips You can do it with one or two sacrificial nutplates before they are riveted on and just clecoed in place. Also if you are worried about scratching the alclad put a piece of blue tape over it. Yeah it will take a while but should work. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:21 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: wing tips BTDT. The method works in a pinch where the dimple die won't reach and the metal is thin enough. However it has the disadvantage of damaging the aluminum layer of the ALCLAD, exposing the internal metal to corrosion. Much better to grind the edge from a dimple set to ensure that the dimple is set to the proper depth without scarring the adjacent metal. Case in point is the nut plate for the wing fairing on the bottom skin between the main spar (gear leg in place); use the screw method there. Also use of the screws is going to strip out a few and potentially leave some in the nut plate for practice with the misnamed "easy out" tool. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips Hey Doug, I assume you mean to screw into the nut plate already in the wingtip fairing as the female die. Good idea, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it does. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158738#158738 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Back of spinner to front of starter distance
Anyone have the distance from the back of the spinner to the toothed gear on the MT 3 blade? I want to do the spacer and flange method but I think I may need to mount the prop and install the spinner to get the correct distance unless someone has the measurment. I hate to haul the prop back from the hangar just to cut the cowl. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 14" spinner
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The concern should always be present and is greater when the build quality is not first rate. The number is safely VAN conservative and there are steps and features which can be built into the aircraft to attain a more reasonable reduction of flutter. The Rockets have figured out both the (Ken Scott) propaganda and the feature improvements. The official VANS word is not more than a +/- 10% deviation. Hence 26 more ponies = 276bhp at MSL. A few simple alterations makes for a safer airframe. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 6:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 14" spinner Is there no concern about the reduced flutter margin with the additional power, above Van's design limit? Or has someone figgered out how to increase the design flutter TAS? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Back of spinner to front of starter distance
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey Rick - I just bit the bullet and mounted the prop so that I could be sure to get the cowl install right, but I can take measurements for you when I get home if you like. I'll take pictures if you want. Let me know! cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 9:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Back of spinner to front of starter distance Anyone have the distance from the back of the spinner to the toothed gear on the MT 3 blade? I want to do the spacer and flange method but I think I may need to mount the prop and install the spinner to get the correct distance unless someone has the measurment. I hate to haul the prop back from the hangar just to cut the cowl. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Screw it into a nutplate and not the fiberglass that is backed up by the nu tplate....right??????? Worried that the fiberglass hole is not clean or strong enough. JOhn G.> Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips> From: doug(at)mapcontext.com> Date List message posted by: "ddnebert" > > A technique fro m a fellow builder - don't use a dimple die! Be sure the holes are cleaned/ deburred, and then use the screw to do the dimpling. It will deform it perf ectly. I recommend using a steel screw to pilot the dimpling. Try it and se e what you think.> > Doug Nebert> > --------> RV-10 Builder #40546> Tail mo stly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158701#158701> > > ==> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 14" spinner
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nicknaf(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Could someone get me a measurement from the Prop Flange to the Cowling Front? I talked with Whirlwind today and they have a 14" spinner (the aerobatic spinner) but needs to get some measurements to see if it will direct bolt on. TIA Nick -------- RV-10 40569 Finishing (forever) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158822#158822 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Back of spinner to front of starter distance
That would be great CJ,I hate to strap the prop to the top of my Expedition again to bring it to the garage. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 10:09:22 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Back of spinner to front of starter distance Hey Rick - I just bit the bullet and mounted the prop so that I could be sure to get the cowl install right, but I can take measurements for you when I get home if you like. I'll take pictures if you want. Let me know! cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 9:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Back of spinner to front of starter distance Anyone have the distance from the back of the spinner to the toothed gear on the MT 3 blade? I want to do the spacer and flange method but I think I may need to mount the prop and install the spinner to get the correct distance unless someone has the measurment. I hate to haul the prop back from the hangar just to cut the cowl. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: jason Parker <litesellme(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel injection for your 912 or 914
I have seen may people attempt to do fuel injection, but at www.experimentalfuelinjection.com , we do it right. First off, fuel injection requires 8-9amps no matter who is making the set up. With this in mind, the only way to properly run fuel injection is with a 55 amp external alt. Our set ups are simply the best. We offer 4 different configurations of 912's and 5 different configurations of 914's. From Intercooled direct port fuel injection, to truly redundant set ups on fuel and ignition, we have it all. Regards Jason www.experimentalfuelinjection.com 661 428-1850 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Subject: fuel injection for your 912 or 914
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
How about a simple mechanical fuel injection system for the Rotax? Seems simpler than strapping a 55 amp alternator on a Rotax. You got that for spamming us? No one here will be using a Rotax on their RV-10. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: > > I have seen may people attempt to do fuel injection, but at www.experimentalfuelinjection.com , we do it right. First off, fuel injection requires 8-9amps no matter who is making the set up. With this in mind, the only way to properly run fuel injection is with a 55 amp external alt. Our set ups are simply the best. We offer 4 different configurations of 912's and 5 different configurations of 914's. From Intercooled direct port fuel injection, to truly redundant set ups on fuel and ignition, we have it all. > Regards > Jason > www.experimentalfuelinjection.com > 661 428-1850 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Subject: Conduit Fill / Size
Group, You might find the attached Excel workbook helpful. I spent some time agonizing over size, number and how many wires would go into a conduit. It is not very elaborate, but I found the visual helpful. The size of the conduit shown is the ID of the Van's conduit they sell and the numbers are in 100ths of an inch along the side. The wires are shown in relative size and the numbers in the circles are the AWG gauge. Dave Syvertson 40625 **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Yes. Cleco just a COUNTERSUNK nutplate onto the aluminum directly and then screw in the proper screw. When it contacts the aluminum the screw head makes the dimple. -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 10:11 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: wing tips Screw it into a nutplate and not the fiberglass that is backed up by the nutplate....right??????? Worried that the fiberglass hole is not clean or strong enough. JOhn G. > Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips > From: doug(at)mapcontext.com > Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 18:55:21 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A technique from a fellow builder - don't use a dimple die! Be sure the holes are cleaned/deburred, and then use the screw to do the dimpling. It will deform it perfectly. I recommend using a steel screw to pilot the dimpling. Try it and see what you think. > > Doug Nebert > > -------- > RV-10 Builder #40546 > Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158701#158701 > > > > > > > >============== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wing tips
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Hey Ben, I may have misunderstood, but I think the original post was about the dimples in the wing skin at the fairing tips -- if that's the case, there's no "clecoing the nutplate onto the aluminum directly" since the nutplate is on the fairing -- no ear holes on the aluminum to cleco to ... right? I've checked ours and I think there's enough room to grind the die down, so I'll try that first. If not, screwing into a countersunk, tapped out nutplate mounted on scrap aluminum, (using tape or a dimpled washer to protect the skin) should do the trick. The scrap aluminum/nutplate behind the wing skin would eliminate the risk of cracking the fiberglass mounted nutplates on the actual wingtip with the torque it would take to dimple the thicker wing skin. And, again, I REALLY like my impact driver for these screw/nutplate jobs. We'll see how it goes. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158920#158920 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Conduit Fill / Size
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Hey Dave, I'm very new to the group and the jargon ... help me out, "strobes" I get, "RG's"? and where is the conduit running - wings? tail? battery to panel? and what are your other wires in the diagram? I know ours will be unique to our needs, but I'm trying to absorb as much as I can! For those others that don't have Excel loaded, I downloaded a free Excel viewer at http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/thankyou.aspx?familyId=c8378bf4-996c-4569-b547-75edbd03aaf0&displayLang=en Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158925#158925 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: plans revisions
Date: Jan 17, 2008
So here's the question. How do you know you have the current revision plans whilst your building? I though I knew. But I need help. I regularly check Van's SB and revision area of their web site for revisions but appartenly that's not all of them. I'm working on section 39.5 preparing the aileron pushrod assemblies and the parts I have don't match the drawings I have. It turns out I have REV 0. of page 39-5. I went and checked our private archive for the print on file and it turns out the REV 1. is certainly available. But there's no listing of this as a revised page on the Van's site. So what are you all doing to ensure that you have the latest information?? Does Van's have another list of page revisions somewhere? Thanks, Bob Newman TCW Technologies #40176 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: wing tips
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Yeah my bad... that is correct. I obviously didn't think it through all the way. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing tips Hey Ben, I may have misunderstood, but I think the original post was about the dimples in the wing skin at the fairing tips -- if that's the case, there's no "clecoing the nutplate onto the aluminum directly" since the nutplate is on the fairing -- no ear holes on the aluminum to cleco to ... right? I've checked ours and I think there's enough room to grind the die down, so I'll try that first. If not, screwing into a countersunk, tapped out nutplate mounted on scrap aluminum, (using tape or a dimpled washer to protect the skin) should do the trick. The scrap aluminum/nutplate behind the wing skin would eliminate the risk of cracking the fiberglass mounted nutplates on the actual wingtip with the torque it would take to dimple the thicker wing skin. And, again, I REALLY like my impact driver for these screw/nutplate jobs. We'll see how it goes. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158920#158920 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: fuel injection for your 912 or 914
Date: Jan 17, 2008
So much for knowing your audience! How many 912s could you fit under the cowl to make a -10 fly right? Marcus _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason Parker Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: fuel injection for your 912 or 914 I have seen may people attempt to do fuel injection, but at <http://www.experimentalfuelinjection.com/> www.experimentalfuelinjection.com , we do it right. First off, fuel injection requires 8-9amps no matter who is making the set up. With this in mind, the only way to properly run fuel injection is with a 55 amp external alt. Our set ups are simply the best. We offer 4 different configurations of 912's and 5 different configurations of 914's. From Intercooled direct port fuel injection, to truly redundant set ups on fuel and ignition, we have it all. Regards Jason www.experimentalfuelinjection.com 661 428-1850 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Re: Conduit Fill / Size
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Lew, The "RG" is coax cable for antennas. RG-400, RG-142, RG-58, etc. In wing conduit, this is likely for wing tip VHF or VOR antennas. The main conduit runs in the RV-10 are from the forward fuselage to the aft fuselage, and from each wing root to wing tip. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit Fill / Size Hey Dave, I'm very new to the group and the jargon ... help me out, "strobes" I get, "RG's"? and where is the conduit running - wings? tail? battery to panel? and what are your other wires in the diagram? I know ours will be unique to our needs, but I'm trying to absorb as much as I can! For those others that don't have Excel loaded, I downloaded a free Excel viewer at http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/thankyou.aspx?familyId=c8378bf4-996c-4569 -b547-75edbd03aaf0&displayLang=en Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158925#158925 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fuel injection for your 912 or 914
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Maybe he meant fuel injection for a PORSCHE 914! The word ROTAX is actually not mentioned . . . TDT (Planning for two Rotax 914s driving counter-rotating props on concentric shafts for the RV-10 . . .) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rudder trim
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Here's one for discussion. I've been reading about whether to add rudder trim or not, static or electric, needing a bit of right rudder pressure at cruise speed, etc. Keep in mind, I'm not a pilot. The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! Thoughts? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Couple of FYI's
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Just an FYI.... I just "discovered" these online courses from the AOPA. I have seen references to them on many occassions, but was always too much in a hurry to click on over. Worth taking a look, especially when you get some time off from deburrrrrring. http://www.aopa.org/asf/online_courses/ There is also a nice chart out about the minimal requirements for Day VFR / Night VFR / IFR. I have not taken a real close look to see if this is both accurate and complete, but it's at least a good starting point. http://www.rainierultralightengines.com/forms/Minimum_Inst_Requirements.pdf John Jessen 40328 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Couple of FYI's
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Just an FYI.... I just "discovered" these online courses from the AOPA. I have seen references to them on many occassions, but was always too much in a hurry to click on over. Worth taking a look, especially when you get some time off from deburrrrrring. http://www.aopa.org/asf/online_courses/ There is also a nice chart out about the minimal requirements for Day VFR / Night VFR / IFR. I have not taken a real close look to see if this is both accurate and complete, but it's at least a good starting point. http://www.rainierultralightengines.com/forms/Minimum_Inst_Requirements.pdf John Jessen 40328 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: The Greening of General Aviation
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I read the article but it's only saying things we already know. I imagine the Swedes can sell a lot of mogas to general aviation because a huge percentage of their airplanes are light sports with small engines. We will probably start seeing mogas at airports after a few thousand of the LSAs with small engines show up here. -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159018#159018 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Rudder trim
Van's did this on the RV-9 when they designed it, but I wouldn't touch it on the RV-10. If they wanted it that way on the 10, they would have done it. I myself opted for electric rudder trim and I love it. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim Here's one for discussion. I've been reading about whether to add rudder trim or not, static or electric, needing a bit of right rudder pressure at cruise speed, etc. Keep in mind, I'm not a pilot. The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! Thoughts? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building waiting on RV-10 finishing kit Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: The Gurley Family <rngurley(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rudder trim
Ray - Did you rebalance the rudder after you installed the electric rudder trim. If so - what did you do. I am right at that point right now - am istalling electric rudder trim. Thank you. Dick -----Original Message----- >From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> >Sent: Jan 18, 2008 10:42 AM >To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > > Van's did this on the RV-9 when they designed it, but I wouldn't touch it on the RV-10. If they wanted it that way on the 10, they would have done it. I myself opted for electric rudder trim and I love it. > > >Thank You >Ray Doerr > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher >Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:01 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > >Here's one for discussion. I've been reading about whether to add rudder trim or not, static or electric, needing a bit of right rudder pressure at cruise speed, etc. Keep in mind, I'm not a pilot. > >The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. > >Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! > >Thoughts? > >Later, - Lew > >-------- >non-pilot >crazy about building >waiting on RV-10 finishing kit > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: CH Sticks and panel interference
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Group, is there anyone who is using CH Sticks and has the problem that the stick colliding with the panel at full forward? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159035#159035 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Timeless voices of aviation
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
I wonder if there's anything original in any flying B-52 now? Sort of like Grandpa's hammer...it's had 3 new handles and 2 new heads, but it's still Grandpa's hammer Jack -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 12:48 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Timeless voices of aviation How about the B-52? First flew in 1952. They expect to fly them to 2040! Potential B-52 pilots have or will have flown in planes their fathers and grandfathers flew in. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > > (Who would have thought back in 1975 that this would still be a front line > fighter plane?) > > ha ha.. well what about that UH-1 Huey, they are still flying some of those > Vietnam era helos.. > > Other than wrecking nice Airforce trainers at least the military sucks > everything out of the aircraft they use. _________________________________________________ or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
Michael, I had the problem, and 'solved' it by cutting the grip portion of the stick away from the curved portion, and then rotating it back (towards the pilot) aprox 20 degrees and then haveing it rewelded. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043.5%20Misc%20Interior%20work/slides/DSC03066.html There are a series of 5 pics in the above link Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > is there anyone who is using CH Sticks and has the problem that the stick colliding with the panel at full forward? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder trim
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Lew, Just think about it for a moment. You have high torque situations like take-offs tht require more rudder, then cruise where you don't have the same requirement. What ever fixed solution you implement, it can only address take off or cruise but not both. If you want trim in both conditions, then you'll want the electric trim mod. bob > > From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> > Date: 2008/01/18 Fri AM 08:01:04 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > >> The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. > > Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! > > Thoughts? > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > waiting on RV-10 finishing kit > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Rudder trim
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Well hopefully when taking off you have your feet on the rudder pedals and so should not require rudder trim. The whole point of a rudder trim is to keep the ball centered while your feet are NOT on the pedals. Even for an extended climb you could probably tolerate keeping your feet on the pedals for the duration of the climb. Now in cruise you would want to relax and not have to keep your feet on the rudder pedals to keep the ball centered and here is where a trim tab should perform most of its duty. Bottom line, a properly sized fixed trim tab will probably accomplish 90% of what a movable trim tab would for all but those with the most lazy of feet. A movable trim tab will give you that last 10%. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > > Lew, > > Just think about it for a moment. You have high torque situations like take-offs tht require more rudder, then cruise where you don't have the same requirement. > > What ever fixed solution you implement, it can only address take off or cruise but not both. > > If you want trim in both conditions, then you'll want the electric trim mod. > > bob > > > > > From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> > > Date: 2008/01/18 Fri AM 08:01:04 EST > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > > > > >> The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. > > > > Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! > > > > Thoughts? > > > > Later, - Lew > > > > -------- > > non-pilot > > crazy about building > > waiting on RV-10 finishing kit > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Rudder trim
No, I haven't because right now I am still unpainted. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of The Gurley Family Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 10:27 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder trim Ray - Did you rebalance the rudder after you installed the electric rudder trim. If so - what did you do. I am right at that point right now - am istalling electric rudder trim. Thank you. Dick -----Original Message----- >From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> >Sent: Jan 18, 2008 10:42 AM >To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > > Van's did this on the RV-9 when they designed it, but I wouldn't touch it on the RV-10. If they wanted it that way on the 10, they would have done it. I myself opted for electric rudder trim and I love it. > > >Thank You >Ray Doerr > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher >Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:01 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim > > >Here's one for discussion. I've been reading about whether to add rudder trim or not, static or electric, needing a bit of right rudder pressure at cruise speed, etc. Keep in mind, I'm not a pilot. > >The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me that another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim. > >Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm not even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun! > >Thoughts? > >Later, - Lew > >-------- >non-pilot >crazy about building >waiting on RV-10 finishing kit > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991#158991 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Rudder trim
Date: Jan 18, 2008
William, I put a rudder trim tab on my RV-10 and it works just as you described. Af ter playing around with the length and location of the tab (purchased from A/C Spruce) the ball is centered in cruise (65-70% of power). I don't see a need for a movable trim tab. Mark RV-10/N410MR 185 Hours > Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 12:59:36 -0600> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder tri m> From: wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > --> RV10-List m essage posted by: "William Curtis" > > Well hopefully w hen taking off you have your feet on the rudder pedals and so should not re quire rudder trim. The whole point of a rudder trim is to keep the ball cen tered while your feet are NOT on the pedals. Even for an extended climb you could probably tolerate keeping your feet on the pedals for the duration o f the climb. Now in cruise you would want to relax and not have to keep you r feet on the rudder pedals to keep the ball centered and here is where a t rim tab should perform most of its duty. Bottom line, a properly sized fixe d trim tab will probably accomplish 90% of what a movable trim tab would fo r all but those with the most lazy of feet. A movable trim tab will give yo u that last 10%.> > William> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/> "Be who you are an d say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matte r don't mind."> -- Dr. Suess > > -------- Original Message --------> > --> RV10-List message posted by: > > > > Lew,> > > > Just t hink about it for a moment. You have high torque situations like take-offs tht require more rudder, then cruise where you don't have the same requirem ent.> > > > What ever fixed solution you implement, it can only address tak e off or cruise but not both. > > > > If you want trim in both conditions, then you'll want the electric trim mod.> > > > bob> > > > > > > > From: "Le w Gallagher" > > > Date: 2008/01/18 Fri AM 08:01:04 ES T> > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > > Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim> > et>> > > > > >> The same guy that builds and flies -6's that told me about cracks in the windshield bond to the aluminum pulling G's, also told me tha t another builder corrected for rudder trim by moving the leading edge of t he vertical stabilizer 3/32 to the left on his -6. He says it has resulted in perfect rudder trim.> > > > > > Being new to this and a non-pilot, I'm n ot even considering doing this -- and if I were, I would consult with Van's -- but this is certainly more fun!> > > > > > Thoughts?> > > > > > Later, - Lew> > > > > > --------> > > non-pilot> > > crazy about building> > > wai ting on RV-10 finishing kit> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic on line here:> > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158991# 158991> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ==> > > _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!! http://biggestloser.msn.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Thanks Deems, Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159076#159076 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: CH Sticks and panel interference
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Michael, Out of curiosity, are you using the stock van's panel or one of the aftermarket panels? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:40 AM Subject: RV10-List: CH Sticks and panel interference Group, is there anyone who is using CH Sticks and has the problem that the stick colliding with the panel at full forward? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159035#159035 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Patrick, yes I do, the strange thing is that the stick only interferes on the pilot side ( about 1 inch) but not on the co-pilot side. I got to check again if I installed everything correctly. I am not sure if I might be able to adjust the max full forward travel by adjusting the rod end bearings on the push rods. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159101#159101 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I have an alternate panel and had the same problem. I used the same procedure that Scott Schmidt has on his site. (cut the stick, added about an inch and canted it downward a little. Also, my pilot side contacted the panel more than the co-pilot side. Rene' Felker N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 2:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference Patrick, yes I do, the strange thing is that the stick only interferes on the pilot side ( about 1 inch) but not on the co-pilot side. I got to check again if I installed everything correctly. I am not sure if I might be able to adjust the max full forward travel by adjusting the rod end bearings on the push rods. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159101#159101 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: FW: 14" Spinner question
Doesn't look like they are interested yet. Michael From: joe murray [mailto:uhs(at)istar.ca] Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 10:18 AM Subject: Re: 14" Spinner question Totally swamped with current line. If we ever find time, might look at it. UHS Fiberglass ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Sausen<mailto:michael(at)sausen.net> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 9:29 PM Subject: RE: 14" Spinner question No interest in going into that market? There are a bunch of builders lookin g for reasonable 14" spinners. From: joe murray [mailto:uhs(at)istar.ca] Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 8:22 PM Subject: Re: 14" Spinner question Sorry, we do not have a spinner for this application UHS Fiberglass ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Sausen<mailto:michael(at)sausen.net> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 12:02 PM Subject: 14" Spinner question I have an RV-10 with a Lyc IO-540 and a Hartzell prop. Several of the RV-1 0 builders are using a different cowl than stock and it requires a 14" spin ner which is hard to come by. Do you have a 14" spinner that can be used w ith a constant speed, 2 blade Hartzell? Thanks, Michael Sausen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cram" <johncram(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I think you will find the RV-10 plans are pretty easy to comprehend. John 40569 ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Henry<mailto:cchenry01(at)hotmail.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Chuck, If you haven't been there go to Tim Olson's site=C2-=C2- www.myrv10.com he has a section called gotchas, you can also get some great pics and inst ruction=C2-off Mike Howe's site=C2- http://www.etigerrr.com/RV10HomePag e.htm . There are many little things, none really too serious. Stick to the plans, ask for help if you need it here. My biggest tip is read the plans thoroughly, cleco stuff together to see how it all fits before you break ou t the drill, dimple dies or any other metal altering tools. It is really li ke a big erector set. Welcome and best of luck. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:54:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providin g the weather holds.=C2- With great interest I have been following this f orum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here.=C2- My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? =C2- One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participan ts is the difficulty Van=99s creates by having a set of plans which a re hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Oh yeah....the plans are NOT an issue with the RV-10....the other models ar e different in that if you have some mechanical drawing skills they are not too bad, otherwise it is another skill you need to pickup. The RV-10 is a breeze compared to the others. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:54:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providin g the weather holds.=C2- With great interest I have been following this f orum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here.=C2- My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? =C2- One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participan ts is the difficulty Van=99s creates by having a set of plans which a re hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I found the plans really easy to follow. Tim has a list of gotchas on his site, myrv10.com. http://www.myrv10.com/tips/index.html Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Probably the best plans you will ever get especialy compared to the old days, + with everything pre punched . If it dosnt fit its in the wrong place. Just follow the plans and any dramas check the archives and if the answer is not there then ask on the list. The sooner you start the sooner you will finish have fun Chris 388 ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Henry To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 1:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 finishing kit-recommended deletions???
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I deleted the oil cooler and substituted the one sold by Alex D. in Texas. It has 20% more capacity. In the West - extra cooling - that is a big deal. Alex is a very nice guy to work with. Also traded my aluminum air valves on the firewall for SS ones -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159175#159175 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Mine do, so I made them angle towards the center of the panel (about 35 degrees). This helped a lot and they barely reach the panel now. I also like having the grips at an angle as they fit the normal angle of my wrist. One of my many RV buddies, Bob Kaufman flies right seat and he didn't complain about the angle of the stick grip while he was putting 5-7 hours on my -10. I also use an ergonomic angled keyboard for the same reason and when I go to my laptop keyboard it feels weird. Russ Daves N710RV - 185+ hours RV-7 QB in progress ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Hi Tim I will be messing around with my panel layout this weekend and have been checking your website for info. I have looked at how you mounted your radio trays and have a couple of questions. First, was it 1/16" extrusion used to brace the trays. Secondly, was any additional bracing used. In my PA28, there is a strap that runs from the bottom tray to a support (it braces the back of the trays and keeps them from sagging *I suppose*). Inquiring minds need to know.... Cheers Les #40643 - Officially now out of section 29! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Chuck On of the best things you can do for each kit is to sort and organize the parts. What I used was several small parts trays to sort the individual bits and bobs. I labelled the parts bins so I knew what was in each. That advantage of this is that small parts don't get lost in the folds of a paper bag and tossed. As well it means you can easily find just about anything. What I also do was for things that wouldn't fit in small parts trays is to take each subkit and put it in its entirety into a long plastic "under the bed" storage container that I got at Wal-Mart. Except for skins and really large parts, everything generally fit. Then when I needed a specific part, I would just look at the kit list, find the part and know which bin it was in. Skins and really large parts were stored separately and of course easy to locate. As I started a new section, I would "pull" all of the components required and put them in a plastic bin. You can find most if not all of the parts numbers just by looking at the picture at the start of each section. Of course there is less of a chance of missing oversize parts such as a 10' spar. Anyway, as I moved on through construction, parts that were not ready for installation etc were put back in the bin so they wouldn't get lost in my work area (aka the garage). DO NOT skip inventorying parts. Do it alone so you can concentrate and do it bag by bag, sub kit by subkit on a clean work bench. Vans missed a couple of parts on both my orders so far. There are also some very small parts (drill bushings etc) in the paper backs so you need to be very careful that you find everything on the bag lists. Pretty much all of the bag contents will fit into small parts trays or small covered bins. If you want, I can send you may bag list labels that have been set up for Avery computer labels. Cheers Les #40643 - Officially out of section 29 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-18-08 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: CH Sticks and panel interference
Are you sure he didn't complain Russ?? With all the screaming and your hand s covering your face while Bob was flying, how can you be sure?=C2- :) Rick S. 40185 Way ahead of Bob.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 4:14:30 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: CH Sticks and panel interference Mine do, so I made them angle towards the center of the panel (about 35 deg rees).=C2- This helped a lot and they barely reach the panel now.=C2- I also like having the grips at an angle as they fit the normal angle of my wrist.=C2- One of my many RV buddies, Bob Kaufman flies right seat and he didn't complain about the angle of the stick grip while he was putting 5-7 hours on my -10.=C2- I also use an ergonomic angled keyboard for the same reason and when I go t o=C2-my laptop keyboard it feels weird. Russ Daves N710RV - 185+ hours =================== ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <millstees(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Les: Check out a product called Radio Rax. Although they are kind of pricey, I used them in my panel, and they have worked out real well. The big advantace is that they are infinately adjustable. Steve Mills N750SM (reserved) RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6TI Naperville, Illinois Finishing kit, engine install -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:48 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Hi Tim I will be messing around with my panel layout this weekend and have been checking your website for info. I have looked at how you mounted your radio trays and have a couple of questions. First, was it 1/16" extrusion used to brace the trays. Secondly, was any additional bracing used. In my PA28, there is a strap that runs from the bottom tray to a support (it braces the back of the trays and keeps them from sagging *I suppose*). Inquiring minds need to know.... Cheers Les #40643 - Officially now out of section 29! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Ach, you got nothing to worry about. The plans are easy to follow. Plus, there are plenty of folks on this list that will help with the most basic of questions. You've got Tim's myRV10.com site which will get you most of what you might need to think about, plus links to other sites, all of which are very helpful. If you are using Outlook or Thunderbird or some such email program, just start making subfolders for your RV10 folder...I must have twenty of them or more. Seats, doors, panel, wiring, wings, lights, electrical, and so on. You'll get some very good posts that you can move and store for future reference. Les gave advice about taking a good inventory and sorting things out into like minded parts. This is good advice and well worth the time and effort. You will be paid back in efficiences many fold. Do it. Labeling and all. Practice. Do some riveting, so deburring, some drilling to size, and so on. Make sure you get good tools and for the ones that use compressed air and go blam blam blam, make sure you have a pressure valve that will help you regulate the strength of the blams. That way your rudder won't come out with many dents from overly hard hitting. You'll be fine. When you get discouraged, and you will from time-to-time, just remember that it's a long distance run, not a sprint, and if you need to vent, this is the perfect place to do so. John Jessen #40328 www.jessen-rv10.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Here are some pictures of the carbinge product system of John Barrett. Some of the RV-10 builders might find value in the system. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman(at)cablespeed.com] Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:17 AM Cc: John W. Cox Subject: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation Mark Phillips describes a very nice improvement for wingtip installation, but just consider what it would be like with none of those rivet holes to drill (think less work), to see in the paint job or to work loose over time with vibration. If you use graphite hinges, the job becomes really simple comparatively speaking. The same principal holds true for the cowls. http://carbinge.com/wingtips.htm http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm To avoid drilling a bunch of rivet holes in the wing skin, think of using a minimum number of rivets (two on either end) and using Hysol adhesive with clamps to Bond the hinge half to the inside of the wing skin. Then the hinge is reassembled, the wing tip set carefully to place and cleco holes are drilled in the composite wing tip and through the hinge. Hysol is then used to bond this half of the hinge to the inside of the wingtip. The cleco holes are later filled and they disappear! Carbinge Keepers are an ingenious method of securing the pin (wire) in place so that you don't have to devise complicated or unsightly security mechanisms. You simply screw them to place once they are installed and forever after installing or removing your wing tip or cowl is a slam dunk simple job with no chance for dinging up your paint job. http://carbinge.com/Keepers.htm Mark mentions 450 hours of flight time with no problems on his airplane. That's impressive and we can vouch for his results as we have cowling applications in Lancair IVP's that have well over 1,000 hours of flight time with no service required. We have been supplying Carbinge to builders for about 9 years and Carbinge Keepers have been available for about five years. Regards, John Barrett, CEO Barrett/Garrett Enterprises, Inc. PO Box 428 Port Hadlock, WA 98339 www.carbinge.com 1/18/2008 7:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Kind of "piling on", but the plans are completely different that what you might have heard about or seen with the 2 place RVs. I also want to echo the advice that somebody else posted - if the parts don't fit then it's highly likely that you've got them together wrong! This list is a tremendous resource, if you run into something that you have questions on or is giving you fits just post a note. You'll get a response (or a lot of them) back amazingly fast! Bob #40105 So close... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 5:22 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Like to thank everybody for the excellent feedback to my questions. Really great suggestions to follow. It is nice to know that I have this much support. More later!! Chuck Henry #40802 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
John; Interesting you recommend Tim's site, yet make no mention of your great site for the Empennage. It was a large part of my basis for those first few sections. http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Home.htm or the www.jessen-rv10.com under your name. Great site for step by step.. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: John Jessen To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:58 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Ach, you got nothing to worry about. The plans are easy to follow. Plus, there are plenty of folks on this list that will help with the most basic of questions. You've got Tim's myRV10.com site which will get you most of what you might need to think about, plus links to other sites, all of which are very helpful. If you are using Outlook or Thunderbird or some such email program, just start making subfolders for your RV10 folder...I must have twenty of them or more. Seats, doors, panel, wiring, wings, lights, electrical, and so on. You'll get some very good posts that you can move and store for future reference. Les gave advice about taking a good inventory and sorting things out into like minded parts. This is good advice and well worth the time and effort. You will be paid back in efficiences many fold. Do it. Labeling and all. Practice. Do some riveting, so deburring, some drilling to size, and so on. Make sure you get good tools and for the ones that use compressed air and go blam blam blam, make sure you have a pressure valve that will help you regulate the strength of the blams. That way your rudder won't come out with many dents from overly hard hitting. You'll be fine. When you get discouraged, and you will from time-to-time, just remember that it's a long distance run, not a sprint, and if you need to vent, this is the perfect place to do so. John Jessen #40328 www.jessen-rv10.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:55 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Welcome aboard Chuck. As everyone has said, the plans and kit parts are of the highest quality, particularly the Emp kit in my opinion. There will be an inventory issue or 2 so do it as recommended. (I got rudder counterweights from an RV7 - try to pick that one up!) It seems to me the challenge in starting out is getting a set of tools and learning the basics of deburring, drilling, riveting, etc. I'm an experienced hobbyist, woodworker, and know my way around a shop but I had never worked with, or seen anyone, work with sheet metal. I got my training from a week in Griffin GA. You can get it from a fellow builder. But I think if you do it entirely on your own without spending a few hours with another builder just seeing some of that stuff done once - you will spend more time learning than you need to. Having said that, you could have this kit delivered to a mountain top hideaway and do the whole thing successfully as long as you have net access. Damn this if fun. Bill "fidgeting while moving all the big pieces around gearing up for that glass top class in Watsonville" Watson Chuck Henry wrote: > > Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, > > > > I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday > providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been > following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will > retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to > individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as > I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read > from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates > by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? > > > > Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... > > > > Thanks, > > > > Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: OP Panel
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Here are some shots of my panel and sub panel Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Hey Chuck, Here's a specific as you get started on your vertical stabilizer. Our kit came with the reinforcement plate for the top hinge (see Van's service bulletin http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf ) but there was no mention of it in the plans. So not knowing what it was, we set it aside, plowed through, then later stumbled upon the bulletin and had to drill out the rivets and install it after the fact. You'd think they'd have put a notice in the instructions. Now we know to check for bulletins and others observations BEFORE we build! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159263#159263 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Les, Thank you very much for the ideas and yes I would like to take you up on your offer of the labels. I have a small label maker but having them printed out at once would be a time savings plus maybe key me along in case something gets misplaced. I have the work area all positioned with plenty of building area. I might have to hit Wal-Mart after I get to the inventory to see how many of what I will need. Thanks, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:04 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Chuck On of the best things you can do for each kit is to sort and organize the parts. What I used was several small parts trays to sort the individual bits and bobs. I labelled the parts bins so I knew what was in each. That advantage of this is that small parts don't get lost in the folds of a paper bag and tossed. As well it means you can easily find just about anything. What I also do was for things that wouldn't fit in small parts trays is to take each subkit and put it in its entirety into a long plastic "under the bed" storage container that I got at Wal-Mart. Except for skins and really large parts, everything generally fit. Then when I needed a specific part, I would just look at the kit list, find the part and know which bin it was in. Skins and really large parts were stored separately and of course easy to locate. As I started a new section, I would "pull" all of the components required and put them in a plastic bin. You can find most if not all of the parts numbers just by looking at the picture at the start of each section. Of course there is less of a chance of missing oversize parts such as a 10' spar. Anyway, as I moved on through construction, parts that were not ready for installation etc were put back in the bin so they wouldn't get lost in my work area (aka the garage). DO NOT skip inventorying parts. Do it alone so you can concentrate and do it bag by bag, sub kit by subkit on a clean work bench. Vans missed a couple of parts on both my orders so far. There are also some very small parts (drill bushings etc) in the paper backs so you need to be very careful that you find everything on the bag lists. Pretty much all of the bag contents will fit into small parts trays or small covered bins. If you want, I can send you may bag list labels that have been set up for Avery computer labels. Cheers Les #40643 - Officially out of section 29 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-18-08 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Great, thanks Lew. I will print off that bulletin for reference... Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 3:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit Hey Chuck, Here's a specific as you get started on your vertical stabilizer. Our kit came with the reinforcement plate for the top hinge (see Van's service bulletin http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf ) but there was no mention of it in the plans. So not knowing what it was, we set it aside, plowed through, then later stumbled upon the bulletin and had to drill out the rivets and install it after the fact. You'd think they'd have put a notice in the instructions. Now we know to check for bulletins and others observations BEFORE we build! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159263#159263 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 19, 2008
The most recent emp kit does have the upper hinge reinforcement as part of the HS plans. Also get some help from a neighbor, friend or family member. Building with someone is a lot more fun! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 2:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit Hey Chuck, Here's a specific as you get started on your vertical stabilizer. Our kit came with the reinforcement plate for the top hinge (see Van's service bulletin http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf ) but there was no mention of it in the plans. So not knowing what it was, we set it aside, plowed through, then later stumbled upon the bulletin and had to drill out the rivets and install it after the fact. You'd think they'd have put a notice in the instructions. Now we know to check for bulletins and others observations BEFORE we build! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159263#159263 7:32 PM 7:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Dimpling the skins for the wing tips
Date: Jan 19, 2008
I made a post last week about how the hole distance was very close to the r ib web on the holes which are to be dimpled to receive the wing tips. No one had definitively stated that the was not a problem with simply grin ging the female die down aswell as the rounded end of the frame on the pneu matic squezer. Solutions of using a channel lock to hold the dimple dies, using nutplates and screws to make the dimple were other solutions offerred. Today I dimpled all the holes just altering the female die and making the e nd of the frame on the pneumatic squezer match the die and then taped them so they held their relation to one another. There was no problem, the wings skins did not deform or bow outward as I had worried about. Just passing it along...I made a concern out of nothing. JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Hi Henry Here are the labels. I have also included the labels for the fuse kit. The have been set up to print on Avery Label sheets # 02209. If you go to <http://www.rv10.ca/> www.rv10.ca you will see the trays I used. The website is largely incomplete as I have spent my time building rather than creating a website. When time is at a premium you spend it carefully and website stuff fell of the list quite quickly... If you get 6 or 7 big bins that will be lots. The ones I got were used to store things under a bed and seemed ideal for most of the sub kits. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-19-08 2:01 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Les, Thank you very much for the ideas and yes I would like to take you up on your offer of the labels. I have a small label maker but having them printed out at once would be a time savings plus maybe key me along in case something gets misplaced. I have the work area all positioned with plenty of building area. I might have to hit Wal-Mart after I get to the inventory to see how many of what I will need. Thanks, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:04 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Chuck On of the best things you can do for each kit is to sort and organize the parts. What I used was several small parts trays to sort the individual bits and bobs. I labelled the parts bins so I knew what was in each. That advantage of this is that small parts don't get lost in the folds of a paper bag and tossed. As well it means you can easily find just about anything. What I also do was for things that wouldn't fit in small parts trays is to take each subkit and put it in its entirety into a long plastic "under the bed" storage container that I got at Wal-Mart. Except for skins and really large parts, everything generally fit. Then when I needed a specific part, I would just look at the kit list, find the part and know which bin it was in. Skins and really large parts were stored separately and of course easy to locate. As I started a new section, I would "pull" all of the components required and put them in a plastic bin. You can find most if not all of the parts numbers just by looking at the picture at the start of each section. Of course there is less of a chance of missing oversize parts such as a 10' spar. Anyway, as I moved on through construction, parts that were not ready for installation etc were put back in the bin so they wouldn't get lost in my work area (aka the garage). DO NOT skip inventorying parts. Do it alone so you can concentrate and do it bag by bag, sub kit by subkit on a clean work bench. Vans missed a couple of parts on both my orders so far. There are also some very small parts (drill bushings etc) in the paper backs so you need to be very careful that you find everything on the bag lists. Pretty much all of the bag contents will fit into small parts trays or small covered bins. If you want, I can send you may bag list labels that have been set up for Avery computer labels. Cheers Les #40643 - Officially out of section 29 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-18-08 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Incoming Empennage Kit
Hi Henry Here are the labels. The have been set up to print on Avery Label sheets # 02209. If you go to <http://www.rv10.ca/> www.rv10.ca you will see the trays I used. The website is largely incomplete as I have spent my time building rather than creating a website. When time is at a premium you spend it carefully and website stuff fell of the list quite quickly... If you get 6 or 7 big bins that will be lots. The ones I got were used to store things under a bed and seemed ideal for most of the sub kits. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-19-08 2:01 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Les, Thank you very much for the ideas and yes I would like to take you up on your offer of the labels. I have a small label maker but having them printed out at once would be a time savings plus maybe key me along in case something gets misplaced. I have the work area all positioned with plenty of building area. I might have to hit Wal-Mart after I get to the inventory to see how many of what I will need. Thanks, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:04 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Chuck On of the best things you can do for each kit is to sort and organize the parts. What I used was several small parts trays to sort the individual bits and bobs. I labelled the parts bins so I knew what was in each. That advantage of this is that small parts don't get lost in the folds of a paper bag and tossed. As well it means you can easily find just about anything. What I also do was for things that wouldn't fit in small parts trays is to take each subkit and put it in its entirety into a long plastic "under the bed" storage container that I got at Wal-Mart. Except for skins and really large parts, everything generally fit. Then when I needed a specific part, I would just look at the kit list, find the part and know which bin it was in. Skins and really large parts were stored separately and of course easy to locate. As I started a new section, I would "pull" all of the components required and put them in a plastic bin. You can find most if not all of the parts numbers just by looking at the picture at the start of each section. Of course there is less of a chance of missing oversize parts such as a 10' spar. Anyway, as I moved on through construction, parts that were not ready for installation etc were put back in the bin so they wouldn't get lost in my work area (aka the garage). DO NOT skip inventorying parts. Do it alone so you can concentrate and do it bag by bag, sub kit by subkit on a clean work bench. Vans missed a couple of parts on both my orders so far. There are also some very small parts (drill bushings etc) in the paper backs so you need to be very careful that you find everything on the bag lists. Pretty much all of the bag contents will fit into small parts trays or small covered bins. If you want, I can send you may bag list labels that have been set up for Avery computer labels. Cheers Les #40643 - Officially out of section 29 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry Sent: January-18-08 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Actually as of 2-2-2006 the plans have had the VS-1006 as a step. Building with others is more fun (unless it's my mother or father in law!), but sadly all the guys who know anything never seem to have all that much time to assist. I have done 99% of the work myself, those hard to reach areas have MK-319 pop rivets , my wife came out for the tailcone and helped with 10 rivets otherwise worked "solo" The extent of working with my neighbors, has been fun too, it's usually explaining that this is not a large RC or ultralight but a real plane, they still think I am joking, now I have lowered myself to antogonize my neighbors about how fast this plane is and how my wife will learn to fly in it, their eyes seem to get bigger everytime I tell them more.. they now are ready to call Child welfare as I announced my daughter will also be flying in this plane... yep, real fun working with my neighbors! I love building this thing in my garage, even if it is mostly alone.. I never imagined the smile it would put on my face.. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 5:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit > > The most recent emp kit does have the upper hinge reinforcement as part > of > the HS plans. Also get some help from a neighbor, friend or family member. > Building with someone is a lot more fun! > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher > Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 2:07 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit > > > Hey Chuck, > > Here's a specific as you get started on your vertical stabilizer. Our kit > came with the reinforcement plate for the top hinge (see Van's service > bulletin http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf ) but there was no > mention of it in the plans. So not knowing what it was, we set it aside, > plowed through, then later stumbled upon the bulletin and had to drill out > the rivets and install it after the fact. You'd think they'd have put a > notice in the instructions. Now we know to check for bulletins and others > observations BEFORE we build! > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159263#159263 > > > 7:32 PM > > 7:32 PM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: It's almost a plane
Date: Jan 19, 2008
After just over three years of construction N423CF received it's special airworthiness certificate today. I would like to thank everyone on the list for all the help. I am still a month or so away from flying, but it sure feels good to have the pink slip. I am scheduled for Training 21/22 Feb....then to the air it goes. Rene' N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: It's almost a plane
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Congratulations Rene! That's a fantastic milestone! I hope the training and first flight go smoothly and that you're soon enjoying the hard work! Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: It's almost a plane After just over three years of construction N423CF received it's special airworthiness certificate today. I would like to thank everyone on the list for all the help. I am still a month or so away from flying, but it sure feels good to have the pink slip. I am scheduled for Training 21/22 Feb....then to the air it goes. Rene' N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net>
Subject: It's almost a plane
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Congratulation Rene=92. I have got a long way to go yet but news like yours keeps me plugging along. Tom Ganster 40778 tailcone -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:33 PM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RV10-List: It's almost a plane After just over three years of construction N423CF received it=92s special airworthiness certificate today. I would like to thank everyone on the list for all the help. I am still a month or so away from flying, but it sure feels good to have the pink slip. I am scheduled for Training 21/22 Feb=85=85=85.then to the air it goes. Rene' N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 1/19/2008 6:37 PM 1/19/2008 6:37 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: It's almost a plane
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Congratulations Rene', as my tail kit is sitting right now in Chicago awaiting its next leg towards me I can only imagine the feelings generated by your accomplishment. Just think, I haven't even debured my first hole yet and I understand that there are a few to do. Chuck 40208 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 11:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: It's almost a plane After just over three years of construction N423CF received it's special airworthiness certificate today. I would like to thank everyone on the list for all the help. I am still a month or so away from flying, but it sure feels good to have the pink slip. I am scheduled for Training 21/22 Feb....then to the air it goes. Rene' N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I find Van's plans to be very straight forward. Dave Leikam 40496 N89DA reserved Bottom wing skins on, moving fuse. ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Henry To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Incoming Empennage Kit Greetings RV 10 Enthusiasts, I will be receiving my RV 10 empennage and tail kit this Wednesday providing the weather holds. With great interest I have been following this forum for about 6 weeks now and wondering how I will retain all the subjects which flow through here. My question to individuals here is what are some of the pitfalls I can anticipate as I move through the tail feathers? One of the complaints I have read from a large portion of participants is the difficulty Van's creates by having a set of plans which are hard to follow, any comments? Any forewarning on any aspect of the build would be greatly appreciated... Thanks, Chuck Henry #40802 Tail kit on the way ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Hey Chuck, I saw your comment about deburring and thought I'd pass this along: http://planetools.blogspot.com:80/2007/09/cogsdill-deburring-tools.html I tend to be a tool freak and was excited thinking about getting getting Cogsdill's 3/32 and 1/8 deburring tools until I read the above. Now I think I'll save the $ and stick with hand twisting a larger bit when needed, or just wiping with an old towel when that will do it. Someone else mentioned assembling the the elevator pushrod to the elevator bellcrank assembly (page 10-23 when you get it) BEFORE installing the bellcrank -- and I think that is an excellent idea. We did not ... and I ended up uttering many unintelligible sounds while impersonating a contortionist, getting the correct combination of washers in the bearing. By the way, I finally got it by using a magnet with which I could slide the washers one at a time in position on the other side of the aluminum brace while feeding the bolt through -- Sheesh! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159382#159382 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
I actually have the Cogsdill burraway tools. They work great, but you need to have the correct setup! 1. You need to purchase the tools with the blades that have a neutral rake (zero degree) to use with Aluminium. Using the wrong blade will take off too much. 2. You will need to adjust the blade tension by turning a setscrew in the end of the tool; I've found the speed of your drill (or whatever you use to turn the tool) will affect how agressive the tool is. Use the setscrew to to correct for this. The burraway tools will NOT enlarge the inside of the holes; The top of the blade is polished so as to not scratch the inside of the drilled hole. What the burraway tools are terrible at is deburring holes that are out of round, but are sometimes the only way to deburr the 'other side' of the hole, and also work great on holes in tubing, etc. -Jim 40384 (Bummed out currently; need to get excited about working on the fuselage again) Lew Gallagher wrote: > >Hey Chuck, > >I saw your comment about deburring and thought I'd pass this along: http://planetools.blogspot.com:80/2007/09/cogsdill-deburring-tools.html > >I tend to be a tool freak and was excited thinking about getting getting Cogsdill's 3/32 and 1/8 deburring tools until I read the above. Now I think I'll save the $ and stick with hand twisting a larger bit when needed, or just wiping with an old towel when that will do it. > >Someone else mentioned assembling the the elevator pushrod to the elevator bellcrank assembly (page 10-23 when you get it) BEFORE installing the bellcrank -- and I think that is an excellent idea. We did not ... and I ended up uttering many unintelligible sounds while impersonating a contortionist, getting the correct combination of washers in the bearing. By the way, I finally got it by using a magnet with which I could slide the washers one at a time in position on the other side of the aluminum brace while feeding the bolt through -- Sheesh! > >Later, - Lew > >-------- >non-pilot >crazy about building >RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159382#159382 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 20, 2008
What ...? !!! I just got emailed to superglue the washers together first. That's waaay too easy! Man, where were you when I needed you? Hah! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159400#159400 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
For all you washer, bolt, bellcrank challenged builders, try this. Run a piece of string from the outer hole, slide as many washers as you need then pass the string through the eye, then washers, then string until you have the washers and string run out the other side. Pull the string tight and the washers should slide into position in their appropriate place. Now slide your 3/32 or 1/8 punch into the hole and remove the string. With the end of the punch guiding the bolt, push the bolt through letting the punch come back out...takes seconds and no glued washers. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:32:05 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit Hey Chuck, I saw your comment about deburring and thought I'd pass this along: http://planetools.blogspot.com:80/2007/09/cogsdill-deburring-tools.html I tend to be a tool freak and was excited thinking about getting getting Cogsdill's 3/32 and 1/8 deburring tools until I read the above. Now I think I'll save the $ and stick with hand twisting a larger bit when needed, or just wiping with an old towel when that will do it. Someone else mentioned assembling the the elevator pushrod to the elevator bellcrank assembly (page 10-23 when you get it) BEFORE installing the bellcrank -- and I think that is an excellent idea. We did not ... and I ended up uttering many unintelligible sounds while impersonating a contortionist, getting the correct combination of washers in the bearing. By the way, I finally got it by using a magnet with which I could slide the washers one at a time in position on the other side of the aluminum brace while feeding the bolt through -- Sheesh! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159382#159382 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Nutplate source in Wichita, KS
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I was ready to rivet the nutplates on my tailcone sideskins for the cover plates today when I realized I only have one K1100-06 nutplate left. I cannot even find what bag they were sent in in my inventory list as they are not listed. Anyway, I'll be in Wichita, KS tomorrow (Monday) and will try to find some. Does anybody have a source in town that they know of. Not sure if the Yardstore stocks that type of stuff or not but will definitely give them a try. Thanks in advance, Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Incoming Empennage Kit
Rick, thanks so much for that! Bill Watson Rick Sked wrote: > > For all you washer, bolt, bellcrank challenged builders, try this. Run a piece of string from the outer hole, slide as many washers as you need then pass the string through the eye, then washers, then string until you have the washers and string run out the other side. Pull the string tight and the washers should slide into position in their appropriate place. Now slide your 3/32 or 1/8 punch into the hole and remove the string. With the end of the punch guiding the bolt, push the bolt through letting the punch come back out...takes seconds and no glued washers. > > Rick S. > 40185 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Nutplate source in Wichita, KS
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I was ready to rivet the nutplates on my tailcone sideskins for the cover plates today when I realized I only have one K1100-06 nutplate left. I cannot even find what bag they were sent in in my inventory list as they are not listed. Anyway, I'll be in Wichita, KS tomorrow (Monday) and will try to find some. Does anybody have a source in town that they know of. Not sure if the Yardstore stocks that type of stuff or not but will definitely give them a try. Thanks in advance, Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: B&C Aletrantors
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, I was wondering how many have opted for the B&C alternators. I have planned for an L-60 and an SD-20 with an LR3C regulator for each. Anyone have good/bad experience with these alternators or have any tips on their installation? Could someone please confirm that Boss Mount is required for the L-60? Thanks in advance Ron 187 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: B&C Aletrantors
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I've had a BnC 60 amp alternator and LR3 in my RV-9 for 300 hours (no cooling blast tube), no problems, no "nuisance trips". So far so good. g _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: B&C Aletrantors G'day all, I was wondering how many have opted for the B&C alternators. I have planned for an L-60 and an SD-20 with an LR3C regulator for each. Anyone have good/bad experience with these alternators or have any tips on their installation? Could someone please confirm that Boss Mount is required for the L-60? Thanks in advance Ron 187 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Has anyone had a problem with the VA-196 Stall Warning Vane being too small to accept the MS24694C14 machine screw that retains it? On mine, the machine screw does not fit and I was wondering if this is common or I have a faulty vane. I did confirm that I am using the correct fastener (#8 structural, 100 deg c/s flat head, philips drive, 32 threading, 21/32 grip length, 1 1/16 overall length). Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Hey Patrick, You bet. Yesterday we tried slightly drilling out the vane -- and found out it is definitely hardened, stainless, whatever. When finished, the screw fit, but discovered that the weld was cracked on the vane from clamping it in the vice by the vane. Scrap. I don't want to try rewelding and compromising the vane, so we'll be on the phone to Van's today. Oh well. Will post when we find out more. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159521#159521 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: B&C Aletrantors
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
The B & C have a good reputation but I think Van's is now including the Plane Power (AL12-EI60/B) alternator in the firewall forward kit rather than the crappy Nippondenso previously included. When I ordered my FF kit it still included the Nippondenso so I had the ES ALTERNATOR replaced with the ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE. ES ALTERNATOR 60A KIT ALTERNATOR & BOSS MNT $270.00 (Nippondenso) ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT $375.00 (Plane Power) http://www.planepower.com/AL12-EI60.htm Plane power does not yet have the equivalent of the SD-20, so I'll probably included that if Plane Power does not come out with a vacuum pad alternator. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > > G'day all, > > I was wondering how many have opted for the B&C alternators. I have > planned for an L-60 and an SD-20 with an LR3C regulator for each. > Anyone have good/bad experience with these alternators or have any tips > on their installation? Could someone please confirm that Boss Mount is > required for the L-60? > > Thanks in advance > Ron > 187 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Hi Lew, Sorry to hear you had trouble, but glad to know I'm not the only one. That bushing on the vane is really hard steel, I'm sure that was no fun to ream. If you don't mind, please post back with Van's comments. I'm curious to hear what they say. Thanks! Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane Hey Patrick, You bet. Yesterday we tried slightly drilling out the vane -- and found out it is definitely hardened, stainless, whatever. When finished, the screw fit, but discovered that the weld was cracked on the vane from clamping it in the vice by the vane. Scrap. I don't want to try rewelding and compromising the vane, so we'll be on the phone to Van's today. Oh well. Will post when we find out more. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159521#159521 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
Found the same. Had to drill it out. Turned it into a nice little pretzel and had to re-order. I forgot exactly how I managed to drill it out without destroying it, but careful restraint and lot's of lube never hurts. Bill "smiling" Watson Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Patrick, > > You bet. Yesterday we tried slightly drilling out the vane -- and found out it is definitely hardened, stainless, whatever. When finished, the screw fit, but discovered that the weld was cracked on the vane from clamping it in the vice by the vane. Scrap. I don't want to try rewelding and compromising the vane, so we'll be on the phone to Van's today. Oh well. Will post when we find out more. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159521#159521 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bob's Ground Power Plug button
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
The spruce AN2551 plug doesn't some with a cover. Where are folks mounting these? Photos? Thanks for replies in advance. Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159593#159593 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: nylon blocks
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I have 4 nylon blocks (.125" x 5" x 1" and .125" x 1" x 2"). These are not the wing spacers. >From previous kit building they appear to be control stop material. Anybody know where in the documentation these are referenced? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Indran Chelvanayagam <dc71(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: B&C Aletrantors
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Ron - I have the same two dinosaurs as yourself. I can confirm that you need a boss mount for the L-60. No tricks to install (other than putting the belt on before the prop!) SD20 came installed on the engine (from Aerosport power). Looks like you'll need a crow's foot wrench for one of the bolts, due to clearance issues. Regarding regulators - may I suggest a SB1B instead of a second LR3C? This monitors buss voltage, and only activates the secondary alternator if the first fails. Indran On 21/01/2008, at 1:57 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote: > G'day all, > > I was wondering how many have opted for the B&C alternators. I > have planned for an L-60 and an SD-20 with an LR3C regulator for > each. Anyone have good/bad experience with these alternators or > have any tips on their installation? Could someone please confirm > that Boss Mount is required for the L-60? > > Thanks in advance > Ron > 187 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: nylon blocks
Those sound like rudder pedal assembly parts. David Maib 40559 On Monday, January 21, 2008, at 01:03PM, "David McNeill" wrote: >I have 4 nylon blocks (.125" x 5" x 1" and .125" x 1" x 2"). These are not >the wing spacers. > >>From previous kit building they appear to be control stop material. Anybody >know where in the documentation these are referenced? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
OK, Patrick. We talked to Van's today and evidently they're aware of the problem cuz they said they'd send out a replacement with a vane and bolt that match -- no charge. We'll see. In the meantime there's lot's to do -- the main gear are on today, and after the engine mount and nose gear are on and seats temporarily in, we'll really be able to sit in it and "vroom vroom"! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159659#159659 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hartzell 14" spinner source for the James Cowl
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I contacted at Chris Tieman at Mustang Aeronautics. He sells the Hartzell A-2297 14" spinner needed for the James Cowl. Here is his note: Yes I can provide the 14" A-2297 but they are not cheap. Hartzell is really getting out of hand on these. It is now $795 for the unpolished A-2297 or $907 for the polished version. We do not use this spinner much anymore. Chris Tieman Mustang Aeronautics, Inc. 1470 Temple City Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-6818 www.MustangAero.com This is the best price I have found so far. Anyone else found a better deal? Carl Froehlich RV-8A (375 hrs) RV-10 (wings) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Upholstery
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Pros and cons to leather vs. vinyl vs. cloth? Other than price... obviously leather is probably twice as much. Thanks -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159681#159681 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
See if you can get a check out in 182 or Cherokee 235, with hi-perf endorsement. That should help, then get at least 5-10 hours transition training in RV-10. Ins may dictate the number of hours of dual. On Jan 21, 2008 8:32 PM, partner14 wrote: > > I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: nylon blocks
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Which kit did they came in? It's been a while but the small ones might be g uards for the rear seat belt cables as they go through the baggage bulkhead The large ones might guards for the rudder cables inside the tunnel. Anh N591VU-flying ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: nylon blocks I have 4 nylon blocks (.125" x 5" x 1" and .125" x 1" x 2"). These are n ot the wing spacers. From previous kit building they appear to be control stop material. Anybo dy know where in the documentation these are referenced? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: anchoring nutplates
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female die interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw dimple. I read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it sounded very good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to go. But.....Van's no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just AD4's. Mysteriously, Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do you all have a secret supplier? :D -Andy -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Upholstery
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Probably the same reasons as why you would choose one over the other in a car. Leather may be more durable and easier to clean. You may want seat heaters if you are in a cold weather environment. Cloth may be a little more comfortable in regards to temperature variations. Lastly, price..... > > From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> > Date: 2008/01/21 Mon PM 10:36:31 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Upholstery > > > Pros and cons to leather vs. vinyl vs. cloth? Other than price... obviously leather is probably twice as much. Thanks > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159681#159681 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Don, I agree with getting a "complex" checkout in hopes that it will lower the rates, it's also not a bad idea anyway since the RV-10 has a lot going on inside potentially. I'd recommend really shopping around. I found significant differences between quotes (one was twice the rest). I went with AOPA who lined me up with Falcon Insurance as they had a 'good' price and minimal type experience. When I first started shopping around I was told I'd get credit for my RV-6 time, but things changed by the time I was ready to fly. The only good news to offer is most companies will give you a pretty good break in the price after the first year, so fly a lot. You can always use it as an excuse for the high fuel bill that you are preparing for saving on insurance! Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I was in the same situation as you when my 9 first flew - Nation Air came in with the lowest dollar quote by far. g -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 7:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance --> I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: Re: anchoring nutplates
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
You can use normal rivets. You will need a thin dimple die to dimple the nutplate for the rivet, then you can dimple the skin normally. If it is a thick part, then you can machine countersink the aluminum and don't have to modify the nutplate. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Andy Turner wrote: > > OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to > recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female die > interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw dimple. I > read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it sounded very > good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to go. But.....Van's > no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just AD4's. Mysteriously, > Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do you all have a secret > supplier? :D > > -Andy > > -------- > Andy Turner > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: anchoring nutplates
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Order a "small diameter" female dimple die. They work great for close quarters dimpling like you mention. You can get them from Avery. Regards, Mike Schipper #40576 - Fuse - www.rvten.com On Jan 21, 2008, at 10:40 PM, Andy Turner wrote: > > OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to > recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female > die interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw > dimple. I read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it > sounded very good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to > go. But.....Van's no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just > AD4's. Mysteriously, Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do > you all have a secret supplier? :D > > -Andy > > -------- > Andy Turner > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: anchoring nutplates
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Grind down the edge of your female die... It's pretty standard procedure. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 21, 2008, at 8:40 PM, "Andy Turner" wrote: > > OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to > recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female > die interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw > dimple. I read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it > sounded very good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to > go. But.....Van's no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just > AD4's. Mysteriously, Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do > you all have a secret supplier? :D > > -Andy > > -------- > Andy Turner > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: anchoring nutplates
Any If I understand your problem, you need a small diameter dimple die. Have a look at these from Avery: http://www.averytools.com/pc-578-17-small-diameter-dimple-dies.aspx Cheers Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (Reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Turner Sent: January-21-08 9:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: anchoring nutplates OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female die interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw dimple. I read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it sounded very good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to go. But.....Van's no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just AD4's. Mysteriously, Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do you all have a secret supplier? :D -Andy -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Upholstery
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Leather - sticky in Summer - cold at first in winter then nice and warm Cloth - durable and inexpensive - but it looks like - well ----- cloth Can't beat the smell of the hides...... There are the 1/2 leather seats - call Abbey at Fliteline -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159713#159713 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heated Pitot
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I am a high time VFR pilot. I am trying to get my plane set up for lite IFR. In other words - installing one Garmin SL30 with GS & Audio w/MB lites I have been advised by others in EAA and prior posts on this site that having a heated Pitot is a must. Is Gretz GA1000 the best choice. I am already on board with the Advanced Flight systems AF-3500 system with AOA -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159714#159714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Upholstery
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
I am using a microfiber cloth, it is fire resistant and looks and feels like Alcantara but is 10 times more resistant against rubbing. Spots or dirt won't soak in but you won't sweat either. It a special produced cloth for the car industry and for theaters (fire resistant). It's called Comfort. Attached you'll find some pictures during the upholstery process. Only issue is that you have to order at least 10 meters (with is 1.4 meters). Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159717#159717 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02607_617.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02610_130.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: anchoring nutplates
Agreed. I ground a corner off my 3/32 die. Works great, standard rivets, it's used a lot - the extra clearance from the ground-off corner that is. Hit me up directly for a pic unless someone beats me to it. Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > Grind down the edge of your female die... It's pretty standard procedure. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > On Jan 21, 2008, at 8:40 PM, "Andy Turner" wrote: > >> >> OK, newbie question here. I'm installing my first nutplates, need to >> recess the rivet in some way, and ran into the issue with the female >> die interfering with the nutplate, and on the skin with the screw >> dimple. I read that the NAS1097 rivets are a neat solution, and it >> sounded very good, just countersink a little bit and you are good to >> go. But.....Van's no longer stocks the NAS1097 in the AD3 size, just >> AD4's. Mysteriously, Aircraft Spruce also stocks just AD4's. So, do >> you all have a secret supplier? :D >> >> -Andy >> >> -------- >> Andy Turner >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159688#159688 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MT HiGlo Kevlar Spinner and Prop delivered
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Attached you'll find some pictures of the HiGlow Spinner and MT Prop. The delivery box is big but easy to move. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159718#159718 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/propintall_887.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/mt_prop_137.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/mthiglo_211.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: nylon blocks
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Thanks. I am getting close to the point of reconciling unused parts. Because of different fuel valve and inertial belts, I have not needed to install these blocks. Just trying to make sure that my modifications did not leave out something critical. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: nylon blocks Which kit did they came in? It's been a while but the small ones might be guards for the rear seat belt cables as they go through the baggage bulkhead. The large ones might guards for the rudder cables inside the tunnel. Anh N591VU-flying ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: nylon blocks I have 4 nylon blocks (.125" x 5" x 1" and .125" x 1" x 2"). These are not the wing spacers. >From previous kit building they appear to be control stop material. Anybody know where in the documentation these are referenced? p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ics.com matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Jan 22, 2008
I believe that what you want is a high performance endorsement from a CFI. Secondly don't even ask AVEMCO; Their quoted was double the lowest I found. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:50 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Don, I agree with getting a "complex" checkout in hopes that it will lower the rates, it's also not a bad idea anyway since the RV-10 has a lot going on inside potentially. I'd recommend really shopping around. I found significant differences between quotes (one was twice the rest). I went with AOPA who lined me up with Falcon Insurance as they had a 'good' price and minimal type experience. When I first started shopping around I was told I'd get credit for my RV-6 time, but things changed by the time I was ready to fly. The only good news to offer is most companies will give you a pretty good break in the price after the first year, so fly a lot. You can always use it as an excuse for the high fuel bill that you are preparing for saving on insurance! Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance --> I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
I didn't install my stall warning vane and I still have the parts bag, if either of you want it. You pay the postage and I'll mail it. John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159741#159741 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: anchoring nutplates
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Thanks, I'll try both ways. If anyone else is looking, turns out that Wicks stocks the NAS1097AD3 rivets. -Andy -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159747#159747 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
No regulatory requirement for heated pitot. Depends on typical icing where you typically fly. I flew years with unheated pitot where I got rime icing. Never blocked pitot. I would expect it would be more essential where clear ice is more common. If you stay out of icing (good plan) heated pitot isn't needed at all, just depends on whether you feel the need for that extra insurance. On Jan 22, 2008 12:32 AM, AirMike wrote: > > I am a high time VFR pilot. I am trying to get my plane set up for lite IFR. > In other words - installing one Garmin SL30 with GS & Audio w/MB lites > I have been advised by others in EAA and prior posts on this site that having a heated Pitot is a must. > > Is Gretz GA1000 the best choice. I am already on board with the Advanced Flight systems AF-3500 system with AOA > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159714#159714 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
The correct endorsement is "high performance" unless you are building the prototype RV-10RG. Complex refers to tucking wheels as well as controllable prop and flaps. On Jan 21, 2008 9:49 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote: > > Don, > I agree with getting a "complex" checkout in hopes that it will lower > the rates, it's also not a bad idea anyway since the RV-10 has a lot going > on inside potentially. > > I'd recommend really shopping around. I found significant differences > between quotes (one was twice the rest). I went with AOPA who lined me up > with Falcon Insurance as they had a 'good' price and minimal type > experience. When I first started shopping around I was told I'd get credit > for my RV-6 time, but things changed by the time I was ready to fly. > > The only good news to offer is most companies will give you a pretty good > break in the price after the first year, so fly a lot. You can always use > it as an excuse for the high fuel bill that you are preparing for saving on > insurance! > > Marcus > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:33 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Insurance > > > I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on > transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a > beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 9:05:22 AM Central Standard Time, apilot2(at)gmail.com writes: The correct endorsement is "high performance" unless you are building the prototype RV-10RG. Complex refers to tucking wheels as well as controllable prop and flaps. And having a motor that's over 200+hp with a controllable pitch prop= High Performance...which is why many planes such as Mooney 201, Cessna Cardinals with the larger IO-360 are not High Performance aircraft...many have controllable prop's but the IO-360 many be rated only at 200hp thus not being over 200hp they do not comply with the requirement for High Performance. Another way to get your rates a little lower is to obtain an IFR rating as soon as possible beyond you Private rating...adding Commercial may lower your rates even further. More safe flying hours, plus advanced rating and hull value and type aircraft generally make up the rate you will receive. I don't believe that Falcon is an Insurance company...rather it is a brokerage company and they then will contact Insurance companies to get you quotes on your coverage...additionally they will also need to be a registered in your state before they can offer insurance for your policy...or something complicated like that. P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 11:27:03 AM Central Standard Time, rv10builder(at)verizon.net writes: wouldn't getting the transition training with Alex or Mike get one this signoff? I don't think this is automatic, you would need to inform the CFI that you're requesting this instruction and sign off and then perform the tasks required to get the sign off...not very complicated but you'll need to get instruction then the sign off. I don't believe there is a set hours on either HP or complex but just the sign off by the CFI. One thing additionally you may want to question from your carrier is if you complete a formal training course on your aircraft or some other type of course could you receive a discount to your rate...such as the FAA's Wings course and follow up instruction with a CFI (part of your transition training) or a recognised course such as the Cessna FITS course...Mooney other courses set up by their associations. Sometimes these course cost is more than justify by the discount you'll receive. I know this is pretty obvious but genreally, the largest portions of your insurance cost is the hull's value you list...certainly if you're a low time pilot with a fresh IFR to boot in an expensive high performance aircraft; your insurance will be pretty high the first couple of years and should decrease as you gain experience and additional ratings. I understand that it pretty typical for some Cirrus pilots to be paying up to $5k or more for policies on the SR22, while a pilot of similar experience in a Dakota would only pay $1.5k. Happened to one of my original partners in our 235...went from that to a PA 28-300 then on to the SR 22...he additionally had more experience and rates by the time be bought into the 22 but with the accidents rates the pool is shark infested. P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Cowling split design?
Is there a reason all the cowlings I have seen are split as top and bottom halves? Perhaps for structural or aerodynamic pressure reasons? On a nosewheel plane, it would seem much easier to deal with cowl removal if it were split into left and right halves. Inquiring minds want to know if I should rework my RV-10 cowl. Phil #40220 w/Mazda 20B - engine work ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 22, 2008
We've installed two or three. They work very well. I have one on my 10. I haven't been in ice with it but another plane in our hangar has a few times. No problems. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot I am a high time VFR pilot. I am trying to get my plane set up for lite IFR. In other words - installing one Garmin SL30 with GS & Audio w/MB lites I have been advised by others in EAA and prior posts on this site that having a heated Pitot is a must. Is Gretz GA1000 the best choice. I am already on board with the Advanced Flight systems AF-3500 system with AOA -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159714#159714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Anyone try the Van's programs? VanGuard or skysmith http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/insure.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 2:42 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance > > I believe that what you want is a high performance endorsement from a CFI. > Secondly don't even ask AVEMCO; Their quoted was double the lowest I > found. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance > > > Don, > I agree with getting a "complex" checkout in hopes that it will lower > the rates, it's also not a bad idea anyway since the RV-10 has a lot going > on inside potentially. > > I'd recommend really shopping around. I found significant differences > between quotes (one was twice the rest). I went with AOPA who lined me up > with Falcon Insurance as they had a 'good' price and minimal type > experience. When I first started shopping around I was told I'd get > credit > for my RV-6 time, but things changed by the time I was ready to fly. > > The only good news to offer is most companies will give you a pretty good > break in the price after the first year, so fly a lot. You can always use > it as an excuse for the high fuel bill that you are preparing for saving > on > insurance! > > Marcus > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:33 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Insurance > > --> > > I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on > transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take > a > beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowling split design?
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Phil - The theory, though currently improperly applied, is that the upper half (the High Pressure) will flex and distort during flight. This phenomena is from both ram air into the openings (internally) and the low pressure over the top (externally). Two might take a greater strain on the fastening system. Both the Upper and Lower cowl pieces can be easily released from the molds that way. The quality (or lack thereof) is a result of the mold build, the mold prep, the release agent (Partall), along with the pride of workmanship "built in". If the two final halves were joined structurally into one big plug, then separated at the top and bottom, it would make for a most interesting finished product. Composite ribs installed on the interior could significantly reduce the perceived flex on either a piano hinge or a fastener connected left and right half. This solution you are proposing would be a boone to all three blade builders. Six of one - half a dozen on the former. However the placement of the piano hinge pin into a full semi-circle (Left and Right halves) rather than a quad could be quite challenging. For the fastener crowd, it could be a no-brainer. Removal of each side would actually be easier. John #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 11:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowling split design? Is there a reason all the cowlings I have seen are split as top and bottom halves? Perhaps for structural or aerodynamic pressure reasons? On a nosewheel plane, it would seem much easier to deal with cowl removal if it were split into left and right halves. Inquiring minds want to know if I should rework my RV-10 cowl. Phil #40220 w/Mazda 20B - engine work ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Just a point of interest that I'd add here. ***alert - dark and stormy night story below! If you're bored by dumb newbie flying stories, it would suffice to say that I'm pro pitot heat for an aircraft that is meant to fly cross country, or any IFR flights. Last year I was working on my instrument rating, and it just happened to be the rainiest couple months that SoCal had on record, which was just perfect for getting actual IMC time. During one of my more stressful flights, we were puttering around the Los Angeles area, doing approaches into a bunch of different airports. It was bumpy, it was night, and it was a handful. One of those flights that you just have to keep battling with your inner ear, because if you didn't have a good scan going, you'd believe that the airplane was doing backflips. The freezing level dropped a bit, and we started picking up rime ice. We started to head back to SMO, and with all that was going on, I forgot to turn on the pitot heat. It really should have been on from takeoff. Anyway, I was already seeing that we weren't getting the speed that we should have at a known power setting. It was just a couple knots slow, but since we were in the clouds, we knew it wouldn't be long before a bit slow turned into real slow. Now I'm staring at the ASI and comparing it to the ALT, the VSI, and the AI, keeping my scan going, and the ASI slows, slows, slows, and goes to zero. During the time that it was slowing, my brain had to work overtime comparing instruments to sort out what was happening. I had figured it out before it got to zero and flipped on the pitot heat. The instructor and I just sat there, waiting for it to come back alive. Which it did after what seemed like an eternity. All that partial panel stuff really works, but at the time I was very much in practice. Ultimately, we advised ATC of our situation, got lower (after what seemed like forever waiting for a Lear or Citation to get down ahead of us) and landed home safe. I obviously learned quite a bit from this experience, and it remains the absolute scariest experience that I've had in an airplane. I'd caution against the notion of light IFR, and I would never contemplate flying IFR without pitot heat. You definitely never mean to pick up ice, and the above was my only (to date) experience with it. knowing a bit more today than I did when this happened, I realize now that my personal minimums are quite a bit higher than my instructors were. I dunno. I guess that's a really long way of saying that I think pitot heat is cheap and worthwhile insurance. Just my experience, and just to be clear, I'm probably the lowest PIC time instrument rated pilot you'll find. I gots lots to learn. Cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:50 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot No regulatory requirement for heated pitot. Depends on typical icing where you typically fly. I flew years with unheated pitot where I got rime icing. Never blocked pitot. I would expect it would be more essential where clear ice is more common. If you stay out of icing (good plan) heated pitot isn't needed at all, just depends on whether you feel the need for that extra insurance. On Jan 22, 2008 12:32 AM, AirMike wrote: > > I am a high time VFR pilot. I am trying to get my plane set up for lite IFR. > In other words - installing one Garmin SL30 with GS & Audio w/MB lites > I have been advised by others in EAA and prior posts on this site that having a heated Pitot is a must. > > Is Gretz GA1000 the best choice. I am already on board with the Advanced Flight systems AF-3500 system with AOA > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159714#159714 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 1:15:13 PM Central Standard Time, rene(at)felker.com writes: but you can log the PIC time. Rene, Pretty sure you can log the time but not as PIC unless you're a CFI/I giving instruction to a student... P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 2:17:46 PM Central Standard Time, rene(at)felker.com writes: Just for clarification...... 1. Pilot not flying, right seat guy/gal must be rated and current in the aircraft to fly as safety pilot. 2. Pilot not flying, assumes PIC for a portion (while pilot flying is under the hood) of the flight. 3. Both pilots can log time. It is just a way to build a little time at little or no expense. Also, pilot not flying is a required crew member ........... I fly a lot with other pilots and always make sure that we agree on who is PIC and who is not.....even with my instructor. Rene', You may want to take a look at FAR 61.51...PIC is the pilot flying the plane (the sole manipulator of the controls) while the other person is a "safety pilot" and not PIC unless 61.51(e) (3)..."an authorized insturctor may log as PIC time all flight time while acting as an authorized instructor"..."PIC time for a pilot is only when you are the sole manipulator of the controls for which the pilot is rated or has priveleges"...if you act as Safety Pilot and you are not manipulator of the controls you're not PIC...the pilot flying under the "hood" is PIC, you can log time but not PIC time, unless you are the CFI/I. Your point on required crew member is only true if the aircraft you are operating is covered by 61.55 and this covers how the aircraft is certificated not the operation you're performing..I really don't think to many part 91 aircraft have a second in command (required crew member per operation certificate) requirement... I don't think it says anywhere that the person acting as safety pilot needs to be current or have a current medical for that matter either just that they have to be rated for category and class. If you and your mates are logging PIC time incorrectly, well that's your matter. But you may want to re-read the regulation and discuss it with a member from the FSDO or a master CFI/I...IMHO Patrick **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 3:41:14 PM Central Standard Time, GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com writes: It is just a way to build a little time at little or no expense. I'm sure you take the "safety pilot" as a serious position and keep a healthy scan going...if you read through the NTSB accident reports...note how many accidents occur to CFI's and pilots out practicing IFR conditions. It's more than one thinks... P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Engine Breather Fitting Change?
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Does Van's in the FFw kit recommend changing the breather hose nipple fitti ng from the 3/4" fitting that was supplied with the engine to a 1/2" fittin g? ERic-- RV-10 40014 N104EP ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Patrick, great catch. As a retired Pilot Examiner, it is true that the currency of a medical is not a requirement for Right Seat. Second in Command also has nothing to do with "Required Crew" which by nature is a tattoo placed in the Aircraft Limitations and does not get removed without a lot of re-submittal of paperwork with your FSDO. Warbirds have extinguished that issue in the effort to take Fat Cats up for joyrides during waivered airspace in conjunction with airshows. Required Crew is forever. Restricted to Solo flight is time specific. When the Phase One says "Restricted to Solo flight" good luck with your armchair attorney trying to persuade the casualty insurance carrier that your "Good Buddy" was operating as "Required Crew" while you said "Hold my Beer and Watch This" as you log off your Phase One. Pen and Ink Logbook entries will always be with us. Great Examiners and Instructors can find those patterns quickly. It has something to do with the certification statement they sign that they have personally reviewed such entries. These interpretations have come down from Washington Legal and are not open to individual FSDO Inspector interpretation. Attorneys are strange about such stuff. Stay Safe, take along a current Gold Seal CFI or II (who knows your make and model of aircraft) and both of you get to log it. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 1:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance In a message dated 1/22/2008 2:17:46 PM Central Standard Time, rene(at)felker.com writes: Just for clarification...... 1. Pilot not flying, right seat guy/gal must be rated and current in the aircraft to fly as safety pilot. 2. Pilot not flying, assumes PIC for a portion (while pilot flying is under the hood) of the flight. 3. Both pilots can log time. It is just a way to build a little time at little or no expense. Also, pilot not flying is a required crew member ........... I fly a lot with other pilots and always make sure that we agree on who is PIC and who is not.....even with my instructor. Rene', You may want to take a look at FAR 61.51...PIC is the pilot flying the plane (the sole manipulator of the controls) while the other person is a "safety pilot" and not PIC unless 61.51(e) (3)..."an authorized insturctor may log as PIC time all flight time while acting as an authorized instructor"..."PIC time for a pilot is only when you are the sole manipulator of the controls for which the pilot is rated or has priveleges"...if you act as Safety Pilot and you are not manipulator of the controls you're not PIC...the pilot flying under the "hood" is PIC, you can log time but not PIC time, unless you are the CFI/I. Your point on required crew member is only true if the aircraft you are operating is covered by 61.55 and this covers how the aircraft is certificated not the operation you're performing..I really don't think to many part 91 aircraft have a second in command (required crew member per operation certificate) requirement... I don't think it says anywhere that the person acting as safety pilot needs to be current or have a current medical for that matter either just that they have to be rated for category and class. If you and your mates are logging PIC time incorrectly, well that's your matter. But you may want to re-read the regulation and discuss it with a member from the FSDO or a master CFI/I...IMHO Patrick ________________________________ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
In a message dated 1/22/2008 2:17:46 PM Central Standard Time, rene(at)felker.com writes: > > > 3. Both pilots can log time. > Yes, this would appear to be true, and both may be able to log PIC time if it is agreed beforehand that the safety pilot will act as the legal PIC during the time that the pilot manipulating the controls is under the hood. This web page has a pretty good read of the subject: <http://www.pilotjourney.com/Aviation_Training/Instrument_Pilot/PIC:_Who_Is_It?_Who_Can_Log_It?/> http://www.pilotjourney.com/Aviation_Training/Instrument_Pilot/PIC:_Who_Is_It?_Who_Can_Log_It?/ There are a few others as well: <http://www.southern-aviator.com/editorial/articledetail.lasso?-token.key=9910&-token.src=column&-nothing> <http://www.rodmachado.com/Articles/Logging_Flight_Time.htm> FAA FAQ excerpt here: <http://www.rodmachado.com/Articles/Logging_Flight_Time2.htm> -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
looks like many reasons to use it have responded on the item of it being a must - or not.. Here is my thoughts on the best choice currently out there. Falcon- same price as Gretz PH-502- $800 plus Gretz offers a heated system that turns on and off as needed (automatically), the others are full on or off-determined by pilot choosing to have it on or off. Me, I will chose the Gretz for these features and feedback that they work as advertised. If there is someone (Tim?) that has comments on the Gretz performance, please advise. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot > > I am a high time VFR pilot. I am trying to get my plane set up for lite > IFR. > In other words - installing one Garmin SL30 with GS & Audio w/MB lites > I have been advised by others in EAA and prior posts on this site that > having a heated Pitot is a must. > > Is Gretz GA1000 the best choice. I am already on board with the Advanced > Flight systems AF-3500 system with AOA > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159714#159714 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance
Confusion Alert! FAA General Counsel has ruled. There are no regional or local FSDO interpretations on safety pilot issues. Safety pilot IS a required crew member by regulation...has nothing to do with aircraft type. As a required crew member, a current medical IS required. (believe me, this chaps my arse, as my wife is rated, but doesn't have medical). Warbirds, experimental issues...different can of worms. As you say...no dual permitted during phase one, no safety pilot allowed. That is certification requirement, separate from IFR practice with safety pilot. On Jan 22, 2008 3:12 PM, John W. Cox wrote: > > > Patrick, great catch. > > > As a retired Pilot Examiner, it is true that the currency of a medical is > not a requirement for Right Seat. Second in Command also has nothing to do > with "Required Crew" which by nature is a tattoo placed in the Aircraft > Limitations and does not get removed without a lot of re-submittal of > paperwork with your FSDO. Warbirds have extinguished that issue in the > effort to take Fat Cats up for joyrides during waivered airspace in > conjunction with airshows. Required Crew is forever. Restricted to Solo > flight is time specific. > > > When the Phase One says "Restricted to Solo flight" good luck with your > armchair attorney trying to persuade the casualty insurance carrier that > your "Good Buddy" was operating as "Required Crew" while you said "Hold my > Beer and Watch This" as you log off your Phase One. Pen and Ink Logbook > entries will always be with us. Great Examiners and Instructors can find > those patterns quickly. It has something to do with the certification > statement they sign that they have personally reviewed such entries. > > > These interpretations have come down from Washington Legal and are not open > to individual FSDO Inspector interpretation. Attorneys are strange about > such stuff. > > > Stay Safe, take along a current Gold Seal CFI or II (who knows your make and > model of aircraft) and both of you get to log it. > > > John > > > ________________________________ > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 1:34 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance > > > In a message dated 1/22/2008 2:17:46 PM Central Standard Time, > rene(at)felker.com writes: > > > Just for clarification...... > > 1. Pilot not flying, right seat guy/gal must be rated and current in the > aircraft to fly as safety pilot. > > 2. Pilot not flying, assumes PIC for a portion (while pilot flying is > under > the hood) of the flight. > > 3. Both pilots can log time. > > It is just a way to build a little time at little or no expense. > > Also, pilot not flying is a required crew member ........... > > I fly a lot with other pilots and always make sure that we agree on who is > PIC and who is not.....even with my instructor. > > > Rene', > > > You may want to take a look at FAR 61.51...PIC is the pilot flying the plane > (the sole manipulator of the controls) while the other person is a "safety > pilot" and not PIC unless 61.51(e) (3)..."an authorized insturctor may log > as PIC time all flight time while acting as an authorized instructor"..."PIC > time for a pilot is only when you are the sole manipulator of the controls > for which the pilot is rated or has priveleges"...if you act as Safety Pilot > and you are not manipulator of the controls you're not PIC...the pilot > flying under the "hood" is PIC, you can log time but not PIC time, unless > you are the CFI/I. > > > Your point on required crew member is only true if the aircraft you are > operating is covered by 61.55 and this covers how the aircraft is > certificated not the operation you're performing..I really don't think to > many part 91 aircraft have a second in command (required crew member per > operation certificate) requirement... > > > I don't think it says anywhere that the person acting as safety pilot needs > to be current or have a current medical for that matter either just that > they have to be rated for category and class. > > > If you and your mates are logging PIC time incorrectly, well that's your > matter. But you may want to re-read the regulation and discuss it with a > member from the FSDO or a master CFI/I...IMHO > > > Patrick > > > ________________________________ > > > Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > http://forums.matronics.com > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Subject: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
Guys, Remember I was investigating HID landing and taxi lights. I found some at www.dirtlights.com. They are "2 X 4" ovals and they work great in my intakes. Believe it or not, I have good CHTs with them in there. The owner of the business is a pilot and has been selling these into the RV market for years. They come in 12V. and 24V. and all shapes and sizes. The good thing is they're bright, cool, well sealed and you can put them in the wingroot, under the spinner, in the wings, or wherever. I got one spot light for landing, and one flood light for taxi. I'll send installed photos next week. Tom Lawson N-905ET (250 hours and loving it) N-149ES (Still building) 970-420-1798 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
Date: Jan 22, 2008
on the same subject; I have been contacted by an HID vendor in the PHX area and we will be doing a direct replacement for the Vans lights on the 10; possibly an HID light in the standard Vans cowl and an HID light as a Glastar replacement light. will know moir=E9 in a couple of weeks. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing & Taxi Lights Guys, Remember I was investigating HID landing and taxi lights. I found some at www.dirtlights.com. They are "2 X 4" ovals and they work great in my intakes. Believe it or not, I have good CHTs with them in there. The owner of the business is a pilot and has been selling these into the RV market for years. They come in 12V. and 24V. and all shapes and sizes. The good thing is they're bright, cool, well sealed and you can put them in the wingroot, under the spinner, in the wings, or wherever. I got one spot light for landing, and one flood light for taxi. I'll send installed photos next week. Tom Lawson N-905ET (250 hours and loving it) N-149ES (Still building) 970-420-1798 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Hey Tom, I had trouble with your link -- goes to the host. If you leave the period off, it becomes http://www.dirtlights.com/ and that works for me. In your intakes? Post the pics! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159899#159899 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Slow (Standard) build fuse and wing kits for sale?
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Hey Guys, Let me know if this inappropriate for this forum, but I thought I'd put out a feeler. I'm having such a blast helping build my friend's RV-10 that I've decided to start my own. I've found and purchased the tail/emp kit from a builder that decided not to finish it and I'm getting my own builder's number transferred from him. I drove 4 hrs. one way Sun. before X-mas to get it ... my wife is convinced I've totally lost it! I'm on a much more limited budget than my fellow builder and have lot's of patience, so I'm wondering if there are builders out there that started a SB wing or fuse kit, and would want to sell it to me so that they can get the QB kit. I'm in Greenville,SC and I can pick it up within the 4 hr. driving time radius -- maybe a little more if the price is right! I'll either end up with a new passion and learn to fly it -- or one heck of a yard ornament! Later - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building RV-10 finishing kit has arrived! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159902#159902 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
Date: Jan 22, 2008
after an exhaustive search, i had to have to the mr16 bulb (the rv10 original) custom made for me in an HID. i have to buy them in lots and they are made in china. if you find an American source please let me know. check http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/HID_lighting.html for a pic. steve _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 9:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing & Taxi Lights on the same subject; I have been contacted by an HID vendor in the PHX area and we will be doing a direct replacement for the Vans lights on the 10; possibly an HID light in the standard Vans cowl and an HID light as a Glastar replacement light. will know moir=E9 in a couple of weeks. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing & Taxi Lights Guys, Remember I was investigating HID landing and taxi lights. I found some at www.dirtlights.com. They are "2 X 4" ovals and they work great in my intakes. Believe it or not, I have good CHTs with them in there. The owner of the business is a pilot and has been selling these into the RV market for years. They come in 12V. and 24V. and all shapes and sizes. The good thing is they're bright, cool, well sealed and you can put them in the wingroot, under the spinner, in the wings, or wherever. I got one spot light for landing, and one flood light for taxi. I'll send installed photos next week. Tom Lawson N-905ET (250 hours and loving it) N-149ES (Still building) 970-420-1798 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Jan 22, 2008
For what its worth, we tried to get enough interest in the self-insurance to start an RV program but we did not get enough interest to continue investing money into the program. We got only a fraction of those needed. Bob K -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:54 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance The correct endorsement is "high performance" unless you are building the prototype RV-10RG. Complex refers to tucking wheels as well as controllable prop and flaps. On Jan 21, 2008 9:49 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote: > > Don, > I agree with getting a "complex" checkout in hopes that it will lower > the rates, it's also not a bad idea anyway since the RV-10 has a lot going > on inside potentially. > > I'd recommend really shopping around. I found significant differences > between quotes (one was twice the rest). I went with AOPA who lined me up > with Falcon Insurance as they had a 'good' price and minimal type > experience. When I first started shopping around I was told I'd get credit > for my RV-6 time, but things changed by the time I was ready to fly. > > The only good news to offer is most companies will give you a pretty good > break in the price after the first year, so fly a lot. You can always use > it as an excuse for the high fuel bill that you are preparing for saving on > insurance! > > Marcus > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:33 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Insurance > > > I am finishing up my both my RV10 and my pilot license. I am planning on > transition training, but I know because I'm a new pilot I'll probably take a > beating from the insurance people. Any recommendations? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159680#159680 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
In a message dated 1/22/2008 4:26:35 PM Central Standard Time, deej(at)deej.net writes: Yes, this would appear to be true, and both may be able to log PIC time if it is agreed beforehand that the safety pilot will act as the legal PIC during the time that the pilot manipulating the controls is under the hood. Not playing FAA here but I believe your agreement to how to operate has nothing to do with PIC time, it's pretty well spelled out in the regulations...you must be at the controls to be PIC other than that you can log the time but not as PIC...I've been at a number of FAA seminars where this was presented and discussed. The only duel PIC time is for CFI/I, generally... P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Breather Fitting Change?
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Eric, I haven't heard of any recommended change. The breather tube that comes with the FWF kit fits the same size hose as fits on all breather fittings on the engines I have used. The only time I have seen a reduction needed is when an air-oil separator is being used. In answer to your question, I don't think so. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Jan 22, 2008, at 4:56 PM, Eric Parlow wrote: > > > Does Van's in the FFw kit recommend changing the breather hose > nipple fitting from the 3/4" fitting that was supplied with the > engine to a 1/2" fitting? > > ERic-- > RV-10 40014 > N104EP > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Subject: Engine Breather Fitting Change?
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Nope, no change required. My only issue is that with the angled oil filter adapter on my TMX-IO-540 engine, the breather tube is too close to the oil filter. At best it will just touch the oil filter, at worst, it will make the oil filter difficult to remove. I'm in the process of re-positioning it. Aircraft spruce has the six foot length of 1" X 0.035" 5052 aluminum tube for $20. Now I need a 1" tube bender. Pre bent breather tube from Vans is $49. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > Does Van's in the FFw kit recommend changing the breather hose nipple fitting from the 3/4" fitting that was supplied with the engine to a 1/2" fitting? ERic-- RV-10 40014 N104EP ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2008
I've been thinking about getting a personal locator beacon (PLB) and it looks like there are two on the market, Spot and ACR. Does anybody have any experience with either of them? Recommendations? Any other products? How useful have you found the Spot feature of sending a message to a group of people to check-in? Thanks Jon Reining 40514 - finishing wings (as soon as the garage gets finished) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160011#160011 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
Rob a sad accident report...but they call the weather IFR...yet say the visibility was 5+ unlimited and ceiling 2,500' although they note sleet...seems something on weather is missing...sadly 3 fatals... P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 23, 2008
This actually happened at altitude. The weather was at the accident site. They had ob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 2:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Rob a sad accident report...but they call the weather IFR...yet say the visibility was 5+ unlimited and ceiling 2,500' although they note sleet...seems something on weather is missing...sadly 3 fatals... P _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Breather Fitting Change?
Hit up your local electrician or a rental supply place and get a 1" conduit hickey. Should work just fine. But, be aware ..... I haven't done it!!! Linn William Curtis wrote: > >Nope, no change required. My only issue is that with the angled oil filter adapter on my TMX-IO-540 engine, the breather tube is too close to the oil filter. At best it will just touch the oil filter, at worst, it will make the oil filter difficult to remove. I'm in the process of re-positioning it. Aircraft spruce has the six foot length of 1" X 0.035" 5052 aluminum tube for $20. Now I need a 1" tube bender. Pre bent breather tube from Vans is $49. > >William >http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ >"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." >-- Dr. Suess > >-------- Original Message -------- > > > >>Does Van's in the FFw kit recommend changing the breather hose nipple fitting from the 3/4" fitting that was supplied with the engine to a 1/2" fitting? >> >> > > ERic-- > RV-10 40014 > N104EP > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Slow (Standard) build fuse and wing kits for sale?
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Lew - You're not alone. I started to build before I learned to fly. Careful, its very addicting. Of course, the problem now is, go out and have fun flying or stay home and build - tough decision but I'm up to the challenge. :) Jon Reining - PPSEL (I'm checking the mailbox daily for the permanent card to arrive in the mail - and looking forward to starting instrument training sometime soon) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160054#160054 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/22/2008 4:26:35 PM Central Standard Time, > deej(at)deej.net writes: > > Yes, this would appear to be true, and both may be able to log PIC > time if it is agreed beforehand that the safety pilot will act as the > legal PIC during the time that the pilot manipulating the controls is > under the hood. > > Not playing FAA here but I believe your agreement to how to operate > has nothing to do with PIC time, it's pretty well spelled out in the > regulations...you must be at the controls to be PIC other than that > you can log the time but not as PIC...I've been at a number of FAA > seminars where this was presented and discussed. The only duel PIC > time is for CFI/I, generally... > > P The info was taken from an FAQ published by the FAA, which does show that the regulations allow the safety pilot to log PIC time. You can find a subset of it on Rod Machado's website here: <http://www.rodmachado.com/Articles/Logging_Flight_Time2.htm> along with a link to the original FAA information. fyi -Dj -- Dj Merrill Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Trimming the cowling
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Guys, I am hesitating to trim the cowling due to the fact that the straight edge method doesn't give me the possibility to make a line along the side. How did you do it? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160067#160067 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Check Fastfind GPS plus. about $600. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Reining Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 12:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon --> I've been thinking about getting a personal locator beacon (PLB) and it looks like there are two on the market, Spot and ACR. Does anybody have any experience with either of them? Recommendations? Any other products? How useful have you found the Spot feature of sending a message to a group of people to check-in? Thanks Jon Reining 40514 - finishing wings (as soon as the garage gets finished) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160011#160011 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 23, 2008
The reason is that all three pitot tubes iced; trapping low altitude air pressure inside. due to the rapid climb the decreasing outside static pressure made the airspeed seem to continue to rise. The crew marveled at the airspeed and kept pitching up to slow the aircraft which just made the airspeed indication go higher. They ignored the attitude indicator and the aircraft finally entered a stall/spin at about 30+ degrees nose up. Took about a minute to hit the ground. IIRC they were on their way to pick up the Buffalo football team. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 1:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Rob a sad accident report...but they call the weather IFR...yet say the visibility was 5+ unlimited and ceiling 2,500' although they note sleet...seems something on weather is missing...sadly 3 fatals... P _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trimming the cowling
Date: Jan 23, 2008
You need the flexible steel scale which bends nicely. Another technique is to mark the distances on the fuselage about every three inches and connect the dots. Then make an initial cut about .1" short of the aft end of the starting cowl so that additional trimming can take place with files and sanding blocks. IIRC we started with the bottom and matched the top to it. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 4:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Trimming the cowling --> Guys, I am hesitating to trim the cowling due to the fact that the straight edge method doesn't give me the possibility to make a line along the side. How did you do it? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160067#160067 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 23, 2008
In case you are wondering it can also happen in the descent. Iced in cruise and starting a descent the airspeed can indicate lower (or decreasing) than actual due to trapped pitot pressure at altitude. unless you pay attention to the attitude indicator you may be adding power and making a higher than normal approach speed even thought the airspeed indication shows normal approach speed. Never fixate on a single instrument , but consider them in total. Also there is a difference between IFR and IMC. all airline flights are required to be IFR but most have little if any IMC. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 4:39 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Heated Pitot The reason is that all three pitot tubes iced; trapping low altitude air pressure inside. due to the rapid climb the decreasing outside static pressure made the airspeed seem to continue to rise. The crew marveled at the airspeed and kept pitching up to slow the aircraft which just made the airspeed indication go higher. They ignored the attitude indicator and the aircraft finally entered a stall/spin at about 30+ degrees nose up. Took about a minute to hit the ground. IIRC they were on their way to pick up the Buffalo football team. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 1:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Rob a sad accident report...but they call the weather IFR...yet say the visibility was 5+ unlimited and ceiling 2,500' although they note sleet...seems something on weather is missing...sadly 3 fatals... P _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
There is also more information available on the AOPA web site here: <http://www.aopa.org/members/files/topics/pic.html?> Here are some snippets cut from that page: "One topic that invariably pops up whenever there is a gathering of pilots is the logging of pilot-in-command (PIC) time. The much-coveted PIC time has been a controversial subject and can be very confusing. After reading this, you may be amazed to find that there are many different ways to log PIC!" "Before we get started, we must define /pilot in command./ The PIC is, by Federal Aviation Regulations (FARs), responsible for the safe operation of the flight (FAR 1.1, 91.3). At any given time, there can only be one acting PIC on a flight, no matter how many pilots are on board the aircraft. To legally act as PIC, a private, commercial, and airline transport pilot must have a current medical certificate and have all required endorsements, ratings, and recency of experience for the type of aircraft being flown and the flight conditions under which the flight is conducted (FAR 61.3, 61.31, 61.56, 61.57). Sport pilots can act as PIC with a valid and current driver's license in lieu of the FAA medical (FAR 61.23). Before a flight is initiated, an agreement should be made to determine who is to be acting as PIC." "A pilot may log PIC time when he/she is the sole occupant of the aircraft; is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for which the pilot is rated or has privileges; or is acting as PIC where more than one pilot is required (FAR 1.1, 61.51 [e])." "The FARs provide several situations (see scenarios listed below) where two or more pilots may log PIC time, even though there can only be one pilot acting as PIC." "When practicing flying in simulated instrument conditions with a safety pilot, both the pilot flying the aircraft by reference to instruments and the safety pilot may log PIC time if the safety pilot is acting as PIC. As long as the pilot flying the aircraft is rated for the aircraft being flown, he/she may log this time as PIC because he/she is sole manipulator of the controls (FAR 61.51). Because the pilot flying will be wearing a view-limiting device, a safety pilot will be a required crewmember on board (FAR 91.109). The safety pilot may log as PIC any flight time for which he/she is acting PIC in an operation requiring more than one pilot crewmember (FAR 61.51)." "To act as a safety pilot, a current medical certificate is required because a safety pilot will be acting as a required pilot crewmember, which requires a current medical certificate (FAR 61.3)." fyi -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 23, 2008
I was able to trim mine to a very close fit with 2 layers of masking tape. Two inch wide tape works well for the cowl. Position the first layer of tape so that the forward edge matches the forward edge of your sheet metal. Position your upper or lower cowl per Van's instructions. Now position a second layer of tape the same width as the first so that the aft edge matches the aft edge of the first layer of tape. The forward edge of the second layer is your cut line. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160132#160132 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon
I just read an article on it in a tech rag today that got me thinking too. They said the service is $100/yr for the one where you push a button to send a message or alert. But, another $50/yr for the one that gives live intermittent tracking. That's getting to be some serious subscription that could be better spent on WX or other services...even charts. But then I thought too about the chain of the alert. It said they'd route it to the nearest 911 type emergency facility. I pictured what would happen. Sam -"Jim, we just got an alert from the GlobalStar system. It says that someone is calling 911, and the coordinates are 46.180N 90.933W." Jim- "Hmmm, I wonder what that could be. We're getting more and more of these 911 alerts with no good info on exactly what we're being alerted on. Whaddya think, Sam, you wanna drive on out there and see what's going on? It looks like on the map this thing is up in the Chequamegon Forest somewhere." My thought is that, while a PLB gives the authorities a definite, (you're legally responsible) registered name, and definite contact list of emergency contacts, and additional registration info, I don't know how some of the unofficial types of alerting will be received by the individual departments. Especially as this becomes more commonplace. This isn't meant to disparage the product. I think it's really cool, actually, and I can see buying one, if that subscription price were dirt cheap, because it would be generally cool to have. But, I just think that for actual emergency response, to actually save your butt, you might be better off going with one of the actual 406mhz type systems that are supported well for marine, aviation, and other uses. At $550 a pop for the top of the line portable PLB, with integral GPS, and a 5 year battery, it seems that you could have a great PLB system that over 10+ years would have a pretty good cost per year, and be a real PLB. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > > The thing with the SPOT service is what happens if you let your > subscription expire and you trigger the "911" button. Seems to me > they would be opening themselves up for some serious liability if > they didn't route it to SAR resources. I believe Onstar will respond > to an emergency even if you don't subscribe to the service for that > exact reason. Same thing with cell phones, 911 works regardless of > any subscription or lack thereof. Anyone know if this is the case > with SPOT? If it is it would be one cheap PLB. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 2:38 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon > > > You of course mean unofficial when you are talking about Spot, right? > It's not the same or a direct substitute for the 406mhz stuff that > the ACR's and others can do. It's a subscription based thing, that > would be great for letting friends and family track you, but won't be > the same as having a real PLB. > > For regular real PLB's, I got this ACR unit before my last trip. It's > real nice and small, and it's officially registered and has the > emergency contacts set up on the NOAA system. The price here is the > best I could find, after hours and of searching: > http://www.life-raft.com/dept.asp?d_id=9858&l1=9858 You won't find it > for less. > > PLB's are registered and there is no fee. The Spot unit is very > cool, but over 5 years you'll spend more for the Spot than you will > for a PLB. But, if you're into having your friends and family track > you, it would be a cool thing. I'd probably do it, if I could pay > $25/yr, but for the price it is, I can live with just having > flightaware.com track my IFR flights. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Jon Reining wrote: >> >> >> I've been thinking about getting a personal locator beacon (PLB) >> and it looks like there are two on the market, Spot and ACR. Does >> anybody have any experience with either of them? Recommendations? >> Any other products? How useful have you found the Spot feature of >> sending a message to a group of people to check-in? >> >> Thanks Jon Reining 40514 - finishing wings (as soon as the garage >> gets finished) >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
Michael; I did the first cut on the side of the cowl tonight. I used a laser level and picked three points, one at the inside of the inlet, one at the outside and one at the aft edge, then drew the line on the cowl. I'll use that as my reference line. Next, will trim the bottom 1/2 up to that line. Will see how well that works tomorrow night. Question to those who used skybolt fasteners for the sides. How thick of an aluminium strip did you use for the side fasteners? 0.050 as per the top strip? Dr Fred. Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > Guys, > > I am hesitating to trim the cowling due to the fact that the straight edge method doesn't give me the possibility to make a line along the side. > How did you do it? > > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160067#160067 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Jim, I am confused. It sounds like the second layer of tape is exactly on top of the first if the aft edge of the second layer matches the aft edge of the first layer. I must be missing something here. (would not be the first time!) Is the first layer of tape on the sheet metal? The second layer on the cowl? Now I am confusing myself even more! ^_^ David Maib 40559 On Jan 23, 2008, at 8:57 PM, jim berry wrote: I was able to trim mine to a very close fit with 2 layers of masking tape. Two inch wide tape works well for the cowl. Position the first layer of tape so that the forward edge matches the forward edge of your sheet metal. Position your upper or lower cowl per Van's instructions. Now position a second layer of tape the same width as the first so that the aft edge matches the aft edge of the first layer of tape. The forward edge of the second layer is your cut line. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160132#160132 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Trimming the cowling
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I used 0.063 all around which was hard to bend around the curves. Also har d to bend the tabs to match the slope of the cowl. If I had it to do over again I would try 0.050. Mark RV-10/N410MR 185 Hrs.
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:11:10 -0600> From: drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> T o: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trimming the cowling> > ail.com>> > Michael;> > I did the first cut on the side of the cowl tonight . I used a laser > level and picked three points, one at the inside of the inlet, one at > the outside and one at the aft edge, then drew the line on the cowl. > I'll use that as my reference line. Next, will trim the bottom 1/2 up > to that line. Will see how well that works tomorrow night. > > Que stion to those who used skybolt fasteners for the sides. How thick > of an aluminium strip did you use for the side fasteners? 0.050 as per > the top strip? > > > Dr Fred. > > > > Michael Wellenzohn wrote:> > --> RV10-List me ssage posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" > >> > Guys,> > > > I am hesitating to trim the cowling due to the fact that the straight e dge method doesn't give me the possibility to make a line along the side. > > How did you do it?> >> > Michael> >> > --------> > RV-10 builder (engine , prop, finishing)> > #511> >> >> >> >> > Read this topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160067#160067> >> >> >> >> =========> > > _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120 08 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: Perry Casson - Home <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon
I've been playing with one of these SPOT devices for while now and think a lot of pilots and pilot's wives will want one, at least up here in Canada where getting out of cell coverage is pretty easy to do. First on the 911 issue when you activate the device on the SPOT website you do give them pretty much the same contact info as a PLB (who to contact, alternate phone #, etc). What the SPOT device gives you that no PLB does is the check-in feature where for $100/yr as often as you want you can push an "OK" button the unit sends a text message and email to who ever you wish that looks like this: SPOT Check OK. Unit Number: 0-7356077 Latitude: 50.4384 Longitude: -104.538 Nearest Town from unit Location: Regina, Sask. Canada Distance to the nearest town: 1 Mile Time in GMT the message was sent: 01/18/2008 17:35:09 http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.4384,-104.538&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Great for letting those on the ground know you are alive and well on XC's, ETA's if some is meeting you at an airport, etc. For the $150/year you can have the device sends a position report automatically every 10 min and from the SPOT website (http://findmespot.com) you have a Google Maps app that shows your position reports. Too bad this device only sends position data, the higher end stuff also sends heading, speed, altitude and some even transmit flight plan data pulled from your GPS but I'm hearing rumors of just slightly higher cost devices much like this one targeted directly a GA are in the works. Perry Casson Regina, Canada RV-10 C-FMHP http://casson.2y.net/rv-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Subject: Re: Insurance
Thanks DJ certainly is not covered in the FAR's! P **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
Guess they missed an item on the check list (pitot heat on before entering clouds) and been out of practice on cross checking instruments...sad **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
In a message dated 1/23/2008 6:12:05 PM Central Standard Time, dlm46007(at)cox.net writes: all airline flights are required to be IFR but most have little if any IMC. Not an ATP here but I believe they are only required to file an Instrument plan if they have pax's aboard...as most know they are not required to carry ELT's because of the idea that they are generally always IFR flights...but occasionally they fly VFR when repositioning or moving a plane to a maintenance facility sans pax's and the weather is good enough for VFR...as this may save them time and fuel...several accidents have occured when in this condition. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot
Date: Jan 24, 2008
If they go over 18,000...need an IFR flight plan. On that note, anyone done any service ceiling testing on their RV-10s? I plan on doing it on mine once I get flying, just looking for what to expect. Rene' Felker N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 9:11 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot In a message dated 1/23/2008 6:12:05 PM Central Standard Time, dlm46007(at)cox.net writes: all airline flights are required to be IFR but most have little if any IMC. Not an ATP here but I believe they are only required to file an Instrument plan if they have pax's aboard...as most know they are not required to carry ELT's because of the idea that they are generally always IFR flights...but occasionally they fly VFR when repositioning or moving a plane to a maintenance facility sans pax's and the weather is good enough for VFR...as this may save them time and fuel...several accidents have occured when in this condition. _____ Start the year off right. Easy <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> ways to stay in shape in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Insurance ... follow up
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Folks, I put 300 hrs on my RV-9 last year - I just got my renewal quote from NationAir - premium went down by ~34% - there is justice !! g ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 24, 2008
David, The first layer of tape goes on so that the forward edge of the tape matches the forward edge of sheet metal. Position the cowl. The excess material on my untrimmed cowl overlapped the fuselage by less than 2", so the aft edge of the tape was still visible. The second layer of tape goes on top of the first tape so that the aft edges match. The second tape also overlaps the cowling, with the forward edge of the tape corresponding to the forward edge of the sheet metal. Perfect match. Try it and you will like it. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160274#160274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot
AFAIK the IFR requirement will be in their Ops manual. However, I have flown jump seat on an Alaska Airlines 727 many years ago, that did entire flight VFR, as it was a 20 min flight and probably never went over 6000 ft. On Jan 24, 2008 9:10 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 1/23/2008 6:12:05 PM Central Standard Time, > dlm46007(at)cox.net writes: > > all airline flights are required to be IFR but most have little if any > IMC. > > Not an ATP here but I believe they are only required to file an > Instrument plan if they have pax's aboard...as most know they are not > required to carry ELT's because of the idea that they are generally always > IFR flights...but occasionally they fly VFR when repositioning or moving a > plane to a maintenance facility sans pax's and the weather is good enough > for VFR...as this may save them time and fuel...several accidents have > occured when in this condition. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: control stick assembly
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I'm about to insert the wd-0012 control sticks into the wd-0011 stick mounts and the instructions basically say "put it in as far as it will go" The engineer in me says "what the heck does that mean?" The stick mount has a weld joining two tubes, Have you all worked to get the control stick to go in beyond the weld? Have any of you cut the end of the control stick at an angle to allow the stick to bottom out inside the wd-0011 stick mount? Also were your stick mounts suffiecently out of round so that it was a real battle to get the stick to go into the mount. ( i've already deburred and removed some of the weld slag and now am about to deal with the out of round condition) Thoughts and comments needed. Best regards, Bob Newman TCW Technologies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: control stick assembly
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I found that a bigger hammer worked quite well. Bob K Really, I milled the stick out to fit because I've got this amazing neighbor, or he milled it to fit. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 5:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: control stick assembly I'm about to insert the wd-0012 control sticks into the wd-0011 stick mounts and the instructions basically say "put it in as far as it will go" The engineer in me says "what the heck does that mean?" The stick mount has a weld joining two tubes, Have you all worked to get the control stick to go in beyond the weld? Have any of you cut the end of the control stick at an angle to allow the stick to bottom out inside the wd-0011 stick mount? Also were your stick mounts suffiecently out of round so that it was a real battle to get the stick to go into the mount. ( i've already deburred and removed some of the weld slag and now am about to deal with the out of round condition) Thoughts and comments needed. Best regards, Bob Newman TCW Technologies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Coax stripping
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive. My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning required. However... First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid? Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm... Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. John Ackerman 40458 trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Coax stripping -oops
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna) On Jan 24, 2008, at 7:57 PM, John Ackerman wrote: > > Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? > > I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic > system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. > There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 > feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are > routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly > could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive. > > My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth > of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like > a charm with very little adjustment or learning required. However... > First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That > corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. > Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is > 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The > cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is > 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. Could > it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly > critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units > that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow > adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, > including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid? > Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no > spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to > be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? > Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into the pin? > Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is > 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin will > accept at least 0.180". Hmmm... > Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. > John Ackerman 40458 > trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Coax stripping
John, Your in the ballpark, there should be just a smidge...(a thousandths or two) showing between the pin bottom flange and the top of the nylon inner insulator. If it is too short the pin will not engage the inner portion of the connector, you will almost hear and feel it click into place as you slide it into the connector. As Tim says sacrafice a piece of coax and a connector and see. Most BNC/TNC connectors come with a detailed measurement of inner conductor, inner insulator and outer insulator measurments. On my stripper, I measured each blade and adjusted them to the given measurements. Mine has a hex screw for each to adjust. It has worked like a charm since the inital setup. Rick S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:57:10 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Coax stripping Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive. My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning required. However... First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid? Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm... Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. John Ackerman 40458 trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Thanks Jim! David Maib 40559 On Jan 24, 2008, at 1:01 PM, jim berry wrote: David, The first layer of tape goes on so that the forward edge of the tape matches the forward edge of sheet metal. Position the cowl. The excess material on my untrimmed cowl overlapped the fuselage by less than 2", so the aft edge of the tape was still visible. The second layer of tape goes on top of the first tape so that the aft edges match. The second tape also overlaps the cowling, with the forward edge of the tape corresponding to the forward edge of the sheet metal. Perfect match. Try it and you will like it. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160274#160274 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Coax stripping
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Hi Rick! Thanks for the post. Where do you find a stripper that adjust for length (as opposed to depth) of cut? I'd have to move the blade 1/16". That's a lot! I've made test connectors with some spare stuff BNCs that _look_ OK to my unpractised eye, but the dimensions might (probably would) be different and the right angle TNCs are not cheap. I'm gonna pursue this with the connector vendor. Best John On Jan 24, 2008, at 10:22 PM, Rick Sked wrote: > > John, > > Your in the ballpark, there should be just a smidge...(a > thousandths or two) showing between the pin bottom flange and the > top of the nylon inner insulator. If it is too short the pin will > not engage the inner portion of the connector, you will almost hear > and feel it click into place as you slide it into the connector. As > Tim says sacrafice a piece of coax and a connector and see. Most > BNC/TNC connectors come with a detailed measurement of inner > conductor, inner insulator and outer insulator measurments. On my > stripper, I measured each blade and adjusted them to the given > measurements. Mine has a hex screw for each to adjust. It has > worked like a charm since the inital setup. > > Rick S. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:57:10 PM (GMT-0800) America/ > Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Coax stripping > > > Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? > > I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic > system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. There > are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 feet and > all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are routed more or > less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly could be a > disaster, or at least quite expensive. > > My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for depth > of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts RG-400 like a > charm with very little adjustment or learning required. However... > First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That > corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. > Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is > 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The > cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is > 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. Could > it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly critical, > because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units that specify > the lengths that they cut, or any that allow adjustment of the > exposed insulator length, although some, including mine, seem to be > adjustable for length of exposed braid? > Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no > spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to be > clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this common? Am I > missing something about fitting the conductor into the pin? Also, the > spec for the exposed center conductor length is 0.100" (PE4044) or > 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin will accept at least > 0.180". Hmmm... > Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. > John Ackerman 40458 > trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon
Date: Jan 25, 2008
I agree with Tim's thinking on this issue which is why in my RV-3B, in which an ELT is NOT required because it's a single place aircraft, I keep an ACR MicroFix 406 Mhz Personal Locator Beacon. If I ever activate that thing I will mean it, no kidding around. Here's a link with more info on my thought process (scroll down just a bit)... http://www.romeolima.com/RV3hq/Panel/panel.htm#Panel2 Randy Lervold ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 7:52 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon > > I just read an article on it in a tech rag today that got me > thinking too. They said the service is $100/yr for the one > where you push a button to send a message or alert. But, > another $50/yr for the one that gives live intermittent tracking. > That's getting to be some serious subscription that could be > better spent on WX or other services...even charts. But then > I thought too about the chain of the alert. It said they'd > route it to the nearest 911 type emergency facility. I pictured > what would happen. > > Sam -"Jim, we just got an alert from the GlobalStar system. It says > that someone is calling 911, and the coordinates are 46.180N > 90.933W." > > Jim- "Hmmm, I wonder what that could be. We're getting more and > more of these 911 alerts with no good info on exactly what > we're being alerted on. Whaddya think, Sam, you wanna drive on > out there and see what's going on? It looks like on the map > this thing is up in the Chequamegon Forest somewhere." > > > My thought is that, while a PLB gives the authorities a definite, > (you're legally responsible) registered name, and definite contact > list of emergency contacts, and additional registration info, > I don't know how some of the unofficial types of alerting will be > received by the individual departments. Especially as this > becomes more commonplace. > > This isn't meant to disparage the product. I think it's really > cool, actually, and I can see buying one, if that subscription > price were dirt cheap, because it would be generally cool to > have. But, I just think that for actual emergency response, to > actually save your butt, you might be better off going with > one of the actual 406mhz type systems that are supported > well for marine, aviation, and other uses. At $550 a pop for > the top of the line portable PLB, with integral GPS, and > a 5 year battery, it seems that you could have a great PLB > system that over 10+ years would have a pretty good cost > per year, and be a real PLB. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >> >> >> The thing with the SPOT service is what happens if you let your >> subscription expire and you trigger the "911" button. Seems to me >> they would be opening themselves up for some serious liability if >> they didn't route it to SAR resources. I believe Onstar will respond >> to an emergency even if you don't subscribe to the service for that >> exact reason. Same thing with cell phones, 911 works regardless of >> any subscription or lack thereof. Anyone know if this is the case >> with SPOT? If it is it would be one cheap PLB. >> >> Michael >> >> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 2:38 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spot vs. ACR Personal Locator Beacon >> >> >> You of course mean unofficial when you are talking about Spot, right? >> It's not the same or a direct substitute for the 406mhz stuff that >> the ACR's and others can do. It's a subscription based thing, that >> would be great for letting friends and family track you, but won't be >> the same as having a real PLB. >> >> For regular real PLB's, I got this ACR unit before my last trip. It's >> real nice and small, and it's officially registered and has the >> emergency contacts set up on the NOAA system. The price here is the >> best I could find, after hours and of searching: >> http://www.life-raft.com/dept.asp?d_id=9858&l1=9858 You won't find it >> for less. >> >> PLB's are registered and there is no fee. The Spot unit is very >> cool, but over 5 years you'll spend more for the Spot than you will >> for a PLB. But, if you're into having your friends and family track >> you, it would be a cool thing. I'd probably do it, if I could pay >> $25/yr, but for the price it is, I can live with just having >> flightaware.com track my IFR flights. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> >> >> Jon Reining wrote: >>> >>> >>> I've been thinking about getting a personal locator beacon (PLB) >>> and it looks like there are two on the market, Spot and ACR. Does >>> anybody have any experience with either of them? Recommendations? Any >>> other products? How useful have you found the Spot feature of sending a >>> message to a group of people to check-in? >>> >>> Thanks Jon Reining 40514 - finishing wings (as soon as the garage gets >>> finished) >>> >>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Upholstery
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Michael, where did you get this? I was told by an upholster at OSH that microfiber would not pass the FAA fire spec and if treated to meet the spec it did not feel very comfortable to the touch anymore or something like that. I have the stuff in my Mazda and love it. I was all ready to use it until I got the info above. Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Upholstery > > > I am using a microfiber cloth, it is fire resistant and looks and feels > like Alcantara but is 10 times more resistant against rubbing. Spots or > dirt won't soak in but you won't sweat either. It a special produced cloth > for the car industry and for theaters (fire resistant). > It's called Comfort. Attached you'll find some pictures during the > upholstery process. > Only issue is that you have to order at least 10 meters (with is 1.4 > meters). > > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (fuselage) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159717#159717 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02607_617.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02610_130.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Upholstery
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Chris, this material is used in cars so it must pass a flame resistant test. I don't know if this would please FAA requirements as well. As far as I know it is a company in Germany/Munich which produces it. It is UV resistant so it will keep its color . I have something similar in my Honda and thats why I went for it. The name of the microfiber is Comfort, I don't know the producer right now but I'll try to find out the contact. I had to buy it via my upholsterer since it is not sold to private persons directly. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160536#160536 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Satelite reception
Date: Jan 26, 2008
I have been firing up the electronics on my RV10 and to my amazement while my fuselage was inside the garage both the Nav GPS and the WX satellite have good reception and lock on. Truly amazing. Almost makes me giddy. Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Upholstery
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 26, 2008
Here is the link with all the information and colors of the comfort textile http://www.gabriel.dk/uk/textiles/textiles/13/?no_cache=1 I guess there will be also distribution points in the US, this is a danish link. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160577#160577 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Coax stripping
Date: Jan 26, 2008
Outcome: I worked with Pasternack, and found that the stripped lengths that my stripper (and most others, I'd wager) gives are well off optimum, but OK. They will give a reliable connection, but are not what the data sheets specify. It seems you have to have worked with this stuff to know what you can get away with. The center conductor insertion issue is strictly a matter of developing good technique. It is very easy to bend or displace one or more strands of the center conductor of RG400. That makes it very hard to slide the pin over it, so considerable care is required not to damage the bundle of strands . Although bent stands can be combed back, and the bundle can be made round by twisting slightly (it tends to flatten if {when?} you clip it to length), these remedies are hard to do and often don't work. Thanks to Rick and Tim for their quick and accurate replies. John Ackerman 40458 trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:17 PM, John Ackerman wrote: > > Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna) >> Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? >> >> I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic >> system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. >> There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 >> feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are >> routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly >> could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive. >> >> My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for >> depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts >> RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning >> required. However... >> First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That >> corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. >> Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is >> 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The >> cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is >> 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. >> Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly >> critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units >> that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow >> adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, >> including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid? >> Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no >> spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to >> be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this >> common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into >> the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is >> 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin >> will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm... >> Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. >> John Ackerman 40458 >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Coax stripping
John, Sorry for not getting back BACK to you. My strippers are the same ones Dan Checkoway posted on his site, here's the link http://www.rvproject.com/20041005.html The blade depth is adjustable by hex head screw, the blades can be relocated to different slots depending on the strip you want. Mine came preset for RG-400 and has worked flawlessly from day one. Just for giggles I went out and checked the measurement's and they were right there for what the package on the BNC/TNC connectors called for.These were fairly expensive connectors in comparison to others I had priced, like $12 each for Ampehnol. Hung the prop today....now the neighbors think it's an airboat instead of a sail boat :) Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 9:57:14 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax stripping Outcome: I worked with Pasternack, and found that the stripped lengths that my stripper (and most others, I'd wager) gives are well off optimum, but OK. They will give a reliable connection, but are not what the data sheets specify. It seems you have to have worked with this stuff to know what you can get away with. The center conductor insertion issue is strictly a matter of developing good technique. It is very easy to bend or displace one or more strands of the center conductor of RG400. That makes it very hard to slide the pin over it, so considerable care is required not to damage the bundle of strands . Although bent stands can be combed back, and the bundle can be made round by twisting slightly (it tends to flatten if {when?} you clip it to length), these remedies are hard to do and often don't work. Thanks to Rick and Tim for their quick and accurate replies. John Ackerman 40458 trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid. On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:17 PM, John Ackerman wrote: > > Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna) >> Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping? >> >> I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic >> system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length. >> There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16 >> feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are >> routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly >> could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive. >> >> My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for >> depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts >> RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning >> required. However... >> First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That >> corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs. >> Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is >> 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The >> cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is >> 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length. >> Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly >> critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units >> that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow >> adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some, >> including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid? >> Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no >> spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to >> be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this >> common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into >> the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is >> 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin >> will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm... >> Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated. >> John Ackerman 40458 >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Date: Jan 26, 2008
Folks, Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind rivet will form ? One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not use a longer Cherry Max ?) Must be missing something here ... g ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
G, Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally will find your answer there. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") Folks, Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind rivet will form ? One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not use a longer Cherry Max ?) Must be missing something here ... g ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Date: Jan 26, 2008
Ok. I got that one - Pg 7-4 Fig 2 calls those out "NUTPLATE ATTACH RIVET HOLES CSK THIS SIDE". but on the right side of Fig 2, it calls out 2 more "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". Those are in common with the striker plates not the nutplate ? g -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:32 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") G, Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally will find your answer there. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") Folks, Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind rivet will form ? One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not use a longer Cherry Max ?) Must be missing something here ... g ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Tailcone side skins
Date: Jan 26, 2008
I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any other useful hints/tips before I start pounding??? Thanks Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Tailcone side skins
Date: Jan 27, 2008
bill, i avoid rolling the edges whenever possible.(i just don't like the crease left by the edge tool)... my side skins fit well enough to use out of the box. i backrivet everything i can, and that may help keep things flat, but it came out flawless. so i think if your happy with the fit then keep rolling'. and if it starts to scallop between rivets try back riveting. steve dinieri capsteve(at)adelphia.net iflyrv10.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Britton Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 11:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone side skins I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any other useful hints/tips before I start pounding??? Thanks Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tailcone side skins
Date: Jan 27, 2008
I did not roll the edges. The fit comes out nice and tight. I thought about this after the fact but I am glad I did not roll them. Dave Leikam 40496 N89DA reserved starting QB fuse ----- Original Message ----- From: William Britton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 10:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone side skins I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any other useful hints/tips before I start pounding??? Thanks Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Tailcone side skins
I used this: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60 Skins are tight. Great tool.. Glad I did it! -Jim 40384 William Britton wrote: > I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after > I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the > edges on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done > it. Do I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the > bend??? Any other useful hints/tips before I start pounding??? > > Thanks > Bill Britton > > >* > > >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Tailcone side skins
I used this: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60 Skins are tight. Great tool.. Glad I did it! -Jim 40384 William Britton wrote: > I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after > I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the > edges on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done > it. Do I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the > bend??? Any other useful hints/tips before I start pounding??? > > Thanks > Bill Britton > > >* > > >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Emailing: P1010075, P1010076, P1010067, P1010068, P1010069,
P1010070, P1010071, P1010072, P1010073, P1010074
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Another milestone. wings mounted for the final time. The F-1099 brackets are called for about half blinds and half solids. The main over wing are called blind but should be solid. That is the area where everyone will be stepping to get aboard. All wing bolts in and torqued in about an hour. NAS close tolerance bolts really tight left and easier on the right. Used LPS-2 for lubrication the holes. Also the forward most top hole each side gets a solid AN4704-5. The top bracket stops short of that hole but it is punched in the skin anyway. It easily clears the tank attach spar. Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments: P1010075 P1010076 P1010067 P1010068 P1010069 P1010070 P1010071 P1010072 P1010073 P1010074 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tailcone side skins
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2008
For what it is worth, the only skins on the quick build wings and fuselage that are rolled are the leading edges of the flaps and ailerons. I don't think it is necessary when working with thicker material. I backriveted the entire tail cone by myself using a couple of pillows to hold the tail cone in position against the backrivet plate. Also, you can save yourself some contortions working inside the tail cone if you backrivet the F-1047A and F-1047B-L and R stiffeners to the F-1075 skin before you cleco the skin to the bulkheads. Rivet all stiffener holes except the ones that will get riveted to the bulkheads. When I was doing this I had some concern that I would not be able to get the stiffeners into the slots in the bulkheads, but with a little flexing of the stiffeners and bulkhead it came out fine. I know of one other builder who did it this way with equally good results. Makes it much easier to get a smooth finish on a skin that is going to be very visible. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160720#160720 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-196 Stall Warning Vane
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Thanks for the offer, John. The replacement stall vane and screw arrived from Van's -- free of charge! The screw is the same, the diameter of the new vane is larger so that it fits correctly. Folks might want to check that when their kit comes instead of waiting until install time. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160761#160761 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wingtip lens
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Here's a follow up on my comment about the aerobatic guys adding a strip of aluminum riveted to the fwd fuse top skin and overlapping the base of the windshield to prevent later cracks. We now have the instructions for the finishing kit, which include the windshield installation ... and on page 45-18 (Rev 0, date 1/14/05) step 5, it says "fabricate 5 clips from .032 aluminum and blind rivet them to F-1071 Fwd Fuse Top Skin to hold the base of the windshield". And then goes on with the laying up of fiberglass instructions. If this is something new, how come the revision is 0 and it's the old date? Or maybe everybody has been doing this already and it's just the first I'm hearing of it? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160765#160765 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Just to chime following the class... Dave Saylor's workshop was really great. It took all the voodoo out of the composite work on the 10 and was really a huge help in getting past the "apprehensive thinking" stage into the "comfortable building" stage. Dave's completed 10 was parked right next to us in the hanger during the course and was a fantastic reference for both the class subjects and 1000's of other questions regarding the how's and whys of the 10 build. (By the way, Dave's polished wings look fantastic!) While the primary purpose of the class was the glasswork, with a completed 10 sitting there next to us, all manner of questions were answered and Dave was really great in helping with all types of issues. Dave was also kind enough to take up 3 loads of eager builders for some time aloft in his 10 during a break in the weather on Saturday. Also on Saturday the guinea pig cabin top was completely trimmed and fit to a QB fuse. Dave also covered all composite topics from fairings to doors, to wheel pants and also covered many tips and tricks for the windows as well. Dave has a lot of neat tricks. In addition to the tricks, he also discussed materials, tools, material sources, techniques, gotchas, and tips to fix some of the problems/mistakes you may encounter. Sunday was spent on more discussion and working on the class project where each of us made a set of composite wheel chocks. All in all a fantastic class made even better by the large group of 10 builders in attendance. It was great both to meet the other builders and also to partake in the copious note sharing on build decisions and challenges. (It was really great to meet all you guys that went!) I would highly recommend it for anyone at that stage during a future class. (Dave also asked for recommendations of other class topics to hold, so if anyone has any particular areas of concern, you might want to drop him a note.) It was money extremely well spent. Also if any of you guys that went post any photos from the class, especially of that really neat oil door mod and wheel pant intersection fairing mod, please let me know. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 9:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus poneill(at)irealms.com wrote: > Are you sure Deems? It might be a good opportunity to pick up some ideas > for your antenna pylon attach. But too bad you're so far ahead of us! > -- That's no reason to stay away. I'd buy his lunch just to hear about his overhead console attachment. [Mr. Green] I will be doing that someday. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157644#157644 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Fiberglass class
Patrick: Any photos of cool mods would be appreciated. Speaking of wheel pants. My friend who has a RV 10 here in Paris was out at a grass strip this weekend. He had a loose right wheel pant from the bolt holding the hexagonal support breaking. Fortunately, No major damage done and we took the wheel pants off before anything was seriously damaged. He's now getting one of the upgraded axle supports made. Only 56 hrs on the hobbs. He's probably had the airplane for 20 hrs. Lives on a grass strip also. Dr. Fred Fitting the cowl this week. http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/DrFredRv10Picasa ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Oh, by the way, we put the calipers on yesterday and it occurred to me that normally the bleed screw would be on the top to get the air out. Is it done this way to keep the brake line from being damaged on grass strips if it were on the bottom? And where did I see the exact height of the installed canopy with wheels on? We'll soon be wondering about clearing the garage door! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160950#160950 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Jan 28, 2008
This was one GREAT CLASS. Any one coming close to the middle of their project should watch out for the next time Dave offers this class and JUMP at it. I believe it has saved me at least a month of build time and cost me another couple weeks to put in all the great ideas I never thought about. It sure was handy to have a finished example to look at as we cut up a brand new top. It brought the project to life. Thanks Dave for a fantastic weekend. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160971#160971 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class
Lew, The bleeders go on the bottom of the caliper, you need to relocate one of them...check the plans...it's in there. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 5:17:11 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass class Oh, by the way, we put the calipers on yesterday and it occurred to me that normally the bleed screw would be on the top to get the air out. Is it done this way to keep the brake line from being damaged on grass strips if it were on the bottom? And where did I see the exact height of the installed canopy with wheels on? We'll soon be wondering about clearing the garage door! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160950#160950 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Height
Lew; I measured 79 inches. Dr Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as not to clutter up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through. We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed backwards to me. Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up? ... really? Sounds messy and impractical. I've bled cars from the top down for the past 40 yrs. -- first plane, so clue me in! Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way up through the pedal cylinders to the reservoir? But then the nipple has to be loose to allow fluid in? One side then the other? And I must admit I haven't read ahead to see if it's covered in a later section -- just got the calipers on and had to call it a night. Puzzled, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class
I don't see it in the directions, but yes, fill a pump type oil can up with brake fluid, and put a hose between it and the bleeder. Open the bleeder and pump the fluid UP through the system until it fills the master cylinder. you may have to remove some from the master cylinder to make room for more, so you can pump enough until all the bubbles are out. It works, and works well. Yes, definitely different than doing cars. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Lew Gallagher wrote: > > > Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as > not to clutter up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through. > > We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed > backwards to me. > > Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up? ... really? Sounds > messy and impractical. I've bled cars from the top down for the past > 40 yrs. -- first plane, so clue me in! > > Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way > up through the pedal cylinders to the reservoir? But then the nipple > has to be loose to allow fluid in? One side then the other? And I > must admit I haven't read ahead to see if it's covered in a later > section -- just got the calipers on and had to call it a night. > > Puzzled, - Lew > > -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're > mobile! > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: O-540 C4B5
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Looks like I may have found a sweet deal on an engine for my 10. It is a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 C4B5. Will add injection system. After searching the archives it appears this is a good fit for the ten with the following considerations: 1. Engine mounting ears are too large. 2. Oil filler neck options may be different than D4A5. 3. "the work of getting the baffles fit around the case is a fair bit more on the C4B5 (in my experience) than the D4A5", Jesse Saint. 4. No clearance between the pan and engine mount. Can anyone elaborate on these points and/or other things to look for? Your help is appreciated! Thanks, Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: fuel vents
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure the fuel always flows. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Re: O-540 C4B5
Date: Jan 29, 2008
I installed an IO-540C4B5 on my RV-10. I did have to change out the ears but the oil sump had plenty of clearance with the engine mount. I installed engine baffles but after a hot Texas summer I am in the process of converting them to a James Aircraft plenum. I wish I had gone with the James Aircraft plenum and cowl from the beginning as it appears that the install of the plenum from scratch would have been easier than the Van's baffle system and would have given me much better cooling with less drag. I am going with the James Aircraft plenum and cowl on the RV-7 I am in the process of building as well. Russ Daves N710RV - RV-10 190+ hours N65RV- RV-6A Sold N742PZ - RV-8 Co-Builder N____RV - RV-7, Waiting on QB Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: fuel vents
No. Vic suggested to me once installing mini rudder fairings in front of those lines to keep them clear, because yes indeed that's a place where if ice formed you could be in a bad situation. I haven't stuck anything on there yet, but I haven't been flying around in ice either, luckily. You're right though, you may want to find a way to deal with that area. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying David McNeill wrote: > Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing > intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure the > fuel always flows. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: fuel vents
Date: Jan 29, 2008
I think you want those vents pressurized with ram air to prevent fuel flowing out during banked flight. I was thinking of some alternate vent source. Cessna had a problem in the past with clogged vents which cutoff the fuel flow and caused some fatal accidents; in some cases just caused accidents by collapsing the internal tank. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:12 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel vents No. Vic suggested to me once installing mini rudder fairings in front of those lines to keep them clear, because yes indeed that's a place where if ice formed you could be in a bad situation. I haven't stuck anything on there yet, but I haven't been flying around in ice either, luckily. You're right though, you may want to find a way to deal with that area. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying David McNeill wrote: > Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing > intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure > the fuel always flows. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Height
Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Height Lew; I measured 79 inches. Dr Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Height
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able. I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was right. I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get clearance? Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Chelton pricing/comparo
I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now? I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one over the other.. Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Chelton pricing/comparo
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Razz Deems so we can get an operational report of the Dual OP Techs in flying RV-10s. A comparison much like Tim's would sway more builders to consider the former OP Technologies. The other purchasers of OP (I know of four) might pipe up so builders know there are quite a few who have made the purchase. I understand that Stein has sold at least two customers the G-900 systems to install in RV-10s but have no more info on that development. As Mike has said, competition is a great thing. Someday soon we can get Tim to level the playing field with GRT, Chelton, G-900 and OP to do a Head to Head posting. Then to make matters worse there is the Three Pack Aspen replacement in one, two or three screens. Don't forget all those builder placing dual and three screen AFS units as well. Chelton has done well for three years. Now the field is quite colorful. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 7:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Chelton pricing/comparo I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now? I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one over the other.. Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Height
Thats what I did. I had my tire rim assembled before the info on swapping out the assembly came along. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:44:11 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able. I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was right. I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get clearance? Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Height
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Is that just to the top of your canopy? I would think the top of the VS would be much higher. > > From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> > Date: 2008/01/29 Tue AM 09:07:08 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Height > > > Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door. > > Rick S. > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Height > > > Lew; > > I measured 79 inches. > > Dr Fred > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Van's support
Lew mentioned - "I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. " try Van's on this one, if it's wrong they'll replace it, if it's fine they'll tell you how to resolve it. Said it before and will repeat- they are a great group at Van's for support, sometimes I feel like I am asking a doubt question, but truthfully more times than not they have put my issue to rest quite quickly and showed me how they might suggest resolving it.. If the part is wrong, they will replace it (no cost) and ship it right out.. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height > > Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able. > > I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount > for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon > jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was > right. > > I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another > one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, > and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get > clearance? > > Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day! > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > Landing gear installed, we're mobile! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Height
Yup. 79 to the top of the canopy. vertical stabilzer's off for now. I have the tail feathers off for their protection and for room in the shop. Too tempting to lay stuff on the horizontal stabilizer. Dr Fred. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Height
No vertical stab included...just to the top of the cabin ----- Original Message ----- From: rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 10:36:23 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Height Is that just to the top of your canopy? I would think the top of the VS would be much higher. > > From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> > Date: 2008/01/29 Tue AM 09:07:08 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Height > > > Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door. > > Rick S. > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Height > > > Lew; > > I measured 79 inches. > > Dr Fred > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: valve stem
Date: Jan 30, 2008
Throw the little valve cap away and put a smaller one on . It does not rub then. Cost 0 regards Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass class
Date: Jan 29, 2008
I'm sure Tim meant to say "aviation hydraulic fluid" rather than "Brake Fluid". I don't see it in the directions, but yes, fill a pump type oil can up with brake fluid, and put a hose between it and the bleeder. PH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Windows Installation
I'd love to see some in progress pic of this or anything to use along with your narrative! Rob Wright #392 Just got off 7 month BI ----- Original Message ---- From: jim berry <jimberry(at)qwest.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 2:35:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows Installation Chuck, I completed the windows and windscreen with the help of 2 local composite pros who have done a lot of Lancair work. Now that I have seen how the pros do it, it is not nearly so intimidating. We used Hysol EA9360 available from www.aerospace.henkel.com or its dealers. Actually a Loctite product. My understanding is that Hysol is the adhesive Lancair uses for pressurized windows, wings, etc. After taping the inner surface of the windows with 2 layers of electrical tape we painted the exposed window edge and the outer surface of the cabin flange with Hysol. Then added flox to the Hysol till we had a peanut butter consistency; applied that about 1/8" thick to the flange. We had at least 1 hour working time with the Hysol, so there was no rush. Positioned the window on the flange and clecoed in place with fender washers about every 1.5" The washers are easier than making the al. fingers some have used, and they put the pressure right on the edge of the window where you want it. You want a little squeeze out of the flox both inside and outside. Predrill the holes for the clecos before mixing the Hysol. While one person clecos around the edge of the window, a second person inside carefully scrapes off the squeeze out flush with the edge of the flange. Don't worry about squeeze out on the outside till it cures, when you can grind or chisel off the excess. After smoothing the cured Hysol on the outside you will probably have some minor irregularities which can be filled with flox. We applied a 2 bid layer of glass to the outside using a trick I have not seen mentioned here before. Maybe that is because I am the only one who didn't know about it. We positioned 2 layers of electrical tape on the outside of the window so that the outer edge matched the inner edge of the flange per usual. Then temporarily taped a layer of clear painters plastic to the cabin top so that it draped smoothly over the window. With a Sharpie carefully mark the outer edge of the electrical tape so that you have a good template of the window flange. Mark the outer edge of this template where you want the edge of the glass to fall. We made separate pieces for each corner of the window, with additional straight strips connecting the corner pieces.You want to end up with a template about 2-2.5" wide that exactly matches the window flange. Don't cut out the p! ieces yet. We wound up with 7-8 pieces for each window. Remove the clear plastic, place it on your cutting table and begin to wet out 2 layers of glass on top of the template. The Sharpie lines will show through. Orient the glass diagonally on the template so that the corner curves cut smoothly. Place a second layer of clear plastic on top of the wetted glass and squeegy(sp) out the excess. Cut out 1 piece of your template, peel off the bottom layer of plastic, and position the wetted cloth on the window. Focus your efforts on getting the cloth positioned exactly up to the edge of the electrical tape. If you take care with this step you will wind up with a nearly finished edge that needs very little clean up. Take your time with this. Even with the help of guys who have done this many times before we still have 20 man hours in doing all the windows, but they look really slick. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158352#158352 Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Subject: Re: O-540 C4B5
From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
The only C4B5 is injected (it is an IO-540-C4B5, normally out of an Aztec). It can be modified to fit an RV-10. I sold one last month for that very purpose. The C4B5 is rated at 250 HP @2575 RPM. Since it is basically the same engine, the D4 series is rated 260 HP @ 2700 RPM. Tom Lawson 970-420-1798 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: O-540 C4B5
Date: Jan 30, 2008
Sean, check the governor mounting studs if you're using the Vans supplied MT Governor. There are two lengths and C4B5 may have the shorter stud that will need replacement to get enough "nut" on the studs for Safety. Ears were good. Mount clearance 3/8" John 40315 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dogsbark(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2008 3:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: O-540 C4B5 Looks like I may have found a sweet deal on an engine for my 10. It is a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 C4B5. Will add injection system. After searching the archives it appears this is a good fit for the ten with the following considerations: 1. Engine mounting ears are too large. 2. Oil filler neck options may be different than D4A5. 3. "the work of getting the baffles fit around the case is a fair bit more on the C4B5 (in my experience) than the D4A5", Jesse Saint. 4. No clearance between the pan and engine mount. Can anyone elaborate on these points and/or other things to look for? Your help is appreciated! Thanks, Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
Any chance of seeing the photos of the light in the intakes? Thanks! Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 3:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing & Taxi Lights Guys, Remember I was investigating HID landing and taxi lights. I found some at www.dirtlights.com. They are "2 X 4" ovals and they work great in my intakes. Believe it or not, I have good CHTs with them in there. The owner of the business is a pilot and has been selling these into the RV market for years. They come in 12V. and 24V. and all shapes and sizes. The good thing is they're bright, cool, well sealed and you can put them in the wingroot, under the spinner, in the wings, or wherever. I got one spot light for landing, and one flood light for taxi. I'll send installed photos next week. Tom Lawson N-905ET (250 hours and loving it) N-149ES (Still building) 970-420-1798 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Height
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Lew: Bending the stem may work - but be careful - the stem can easily break at the bottom thread (so I have heard....) it makes a sickening hissing sound. The new tube had a little more clearance - but not much.. Byron Never finishing - N253RV assigned -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able. I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was right. I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get clearance? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Chelton pricing/comparo
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three seem to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from having to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a technical debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was totally impressed with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a VFR pilot left me at a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training soon after first flight. Additionally I may someday move up to something larger and it has a good chance having a G1000 anyway. Photo hot off the presses. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Chelton pricing/comparo
nice panel! Congratualtions on the choice! Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin Marks To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 4:09 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chelton pricing/comparo Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three seem to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from having to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a technical debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was totally impressed with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a VFR pilot left me at a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training soon after first flight. Additionally I may someday move up to something larger and it has a good chance having a G1000 anyway. Photo hot off the presses. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "Eric Ekberg" <etekberg(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Chelton pricing/comparo
Very nice! Thanks for sharing the picture. It seems like the folks with the G900 are very silent. Please share when you get it flying! I personally love the G1000 and I would seriously consider ponying up the money for the G900 except for two concerns: 1) I wonder how much Garmin will support the experimental market in the future. They have a nasty habit of charging mucho money for upgrades. If they adopt the same support as say GRT it wouldn't be an issue. In my opinion if you shell out that much $$ you should pretty much get free software updates for the product life, ala GRT and Dynon. 2) No integrated GFC autopilot. In my opinion that is one of the best features of the G1000. If they want me to fork over that much cash for an experimental system, they need to step up to the plate and support that feature as well. In the end I just don't trust Garmin not to screw over the experimental market, so I'll continue to sit on the sidelines. It's not like I don't have the time. Hopefully they'll do right by us. On Jan 29, 2008 6:09 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three seem > to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from having > to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a technical > debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was totally impressed > with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a VFR pilot left me at > a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training soon after first flight. > Additionally I may someday move up to something larger and it has a good > chance having a G1000 anyway. > > > Photo hot off the presses. > > > Robin > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: [LML] Crossbow 500 on Ebay
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
For those RV-10 builders that will take the plunge on a Crossbow 500. FYI John Cox - 40600 ________________________________ From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml(at)lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of marv(at)lancair.net Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:11 PM Subject: [LML] Crossbow 500 on Ebay Harry League asked me to pass this along... the auction is for a Crossbow 500 AHRS unit and is available at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320210018 7 14&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123 -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Chelton pricing/comparo
Nice panel! Can't go wrong there. I've just spent many confusing weeks trying to sort through the IFR panel options. I'm settling on a Chelton panel and am becoming quite comfortable with the decision. But the decision would be impossible to make without having some IFR flight experience. Garmin's integrated 900X takes much of the stress out of the decision process at a price. It takes some time and perspective to make a cost effective alternative decision. It's fun to have so many options though. Bill "ready to tackle that top after glass class" Watson 40605 Robin Marks wrote: > > Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three > seem to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me > from having to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting > into a technical debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I > was totally impressed with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR > decision as a VFR pilot left me at a severe disadvantage. I will start > my IFR training soon after first flight. Additionally I may someday > move up to something larger and it has a good chance having a G1000 > anyway. > > > > Photo hot off the presses. > > > > Robin > > * * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2008
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine... Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump??? 1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and then turned off for flight)? 2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump? 3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup to the engine driven fuel pump? 4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine flooding problems? (this would seem unlikely) I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhibited #2/3. What about the RV-10? Regards, Jay Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Firewall penetration
Date: Jan 30, 2008
From: ericparlow(at)hotmail.comTo: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrationDate: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:00:56 -05 00 We used a similar fitting but it has a barbed extension to clamp flexible c onduit over it.$2.50 ea from Lowes Aviation dept.See photos attached We use d 4 of theses on our RV-10 mounted in the firewall center recess.The wires pass thru the bulkhead fitting with a connector on either side.The wires ar e wrapped in fire sleeve and potted with sealant similar to the SafeAir des ign.After the pass-thrus are in the firewall the FWF side connectors are mo unted on to the back side of a SS plate which covers the recess. Eric Parlo wRV-10, 40014N104EP> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 10:10:07 -0600> From: david.nel son(at)pobox.com> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectr ic-List: Firewall penetration> > > I saw a clever use of EMT tubing set scr ew connectors (ie steel electrical> conduit tubing). You can see a picture here (search for 'set-screw'):> > http://www.alliedtube.com/electrical-race ways/conduit/emt-connectors-couplings.asp> /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAAEAtAC0AAD//gAfTEVBRCBUZWNobm9sb2dpZXMgSW5jLiBWMS4wMQD/2wCE AAwICQsJCAwLCgsODQwPEyAUExEREyccHRcgLigwMC0oLCwzOUk+MzZFNywsQFdARUxOUlNSMT1a YFlQYElQUk8BDQ4OExATJRQUJU80LDRPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09P T09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT//EAaIAAAEFAQEBAQEBAAAAAAAAAAABAgMEBQYHCAkKCwEAAwEBAQEB

January 15, 2008 - January 30, 2008

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