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________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      Jay 
      
      I turn the electrical fuel pump on prior to starting until I see a positive
       fuel flow then off for flight.  The only other time I turn on the pump is 
      when switching fuel tanks.
      
      Mark 
      RV-10/N410MR
      185 Hrs.

      
      
      Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 09:10:39 -0800From: jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.comSubject: 
      RV10-List: RV10 electrically driven fuel pumpTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      
      
      For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...Is the RV-10 
      electrically driven fuel pump???1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine
       prime prior to start and then turned off for flight)?2) Run only during fl
      ight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump? 3) Run primarily at t
      ake off and landing time to serve as a backup to the engine driven fuel pum
      p?4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine f
      looding problems? (this would seem unlikely)I believe the Cessnas I've flow
      n exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhibited #2/3. What about the RV-10
      ?Regards,Jay
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
      http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
      08
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
Subject: 
RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      I would think because it is low wing, fuel injected, for the IO-540 RV-10 it would
      be 1, 2 and 3.
      
      1; well this one is self explanatory
      2; most low wing planes without the benefit of gravity helping to push (or pull)
      the fuel require the electrical fuel pump on only during tank switching in cruise
      flight.
      3; for the same reason as number 2, low wings planes without the benefit of gravity,
      usually recommend the electrical fuel pump be on during take-off and landing
      (for go around possibility) in case there is a failure of the mechanical
      fuel pump during these times.
      
      In both high wing using only gravity and low wing with just the electrical pump,
      the engine will not produce anything near full power, however both should provide
      enough fuel to keep the engine running with some level of power to offer
      more options.
      
      Because the fuel pumps are plumbed in series, I do not think there is much of a
      risk of "flooding" the engine with both pumps on in any scenario-other than starting;-).
      I have seen pilots accustomed to flying low wing planes insist on
      turning on the boost pump during take-off and landing in high wing planes even
      though it is NOT part of the checklist in either of those flight modes.  Without
      knowing how the fuel system is plumbed, follow the airframe manufacturer
      checklist.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
      
       For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
      
       Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
      
       1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and then turned
      off for flight)?
      
       2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump? 
      
       3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup to the engine
      driven fuel pump?
      
       4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine flooding
      problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      
       I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhibited
      #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      
       Regards,
       Jay
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
From: 
pilotdds(at)aol.com
      
      I use mine to prime and start the engine,also to purge when hot starting.For takeoff
      and landing it is on in case engine driven pump quits in these critical
      stages of flight.I do notice approximatly one gph drop when I shut off the electric
      pump.
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
      Sent: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 9:10 am
      Subject: RV10-List: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
      
      
      For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
      
      Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
      
      1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and then turned
      off for flight)?
      
      2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump? 
      
      3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup to the engine
      driven fuel pump?
      
      4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine flooding
      problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      
      I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhibited
      #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      
      Regards,
      Jay
      
      
      ________________________________________________________________________
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: 
Re: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      It is a boost pump for priming prior to start and to run during  
      takeoff and landing in case the engine driven pump fails.  You can run  
      both at the same time without flooding.  The flow meter may think more  
      fuel is going through, but it isn't.  I have heard a number of people  
      say that with the flowscan so close to the pump as on Van's plans, the  
      pulses from the pump make the flowscan think more fuel is passing (non- 
      technical terms, of course).  We have tested in, however, and it  
      doesn't seem to actually change the flow measurably.
      
      Jesse Saint
      Saint Aviation, Inc.
      jesse(at)saintaviation.com
      Cell: 352-427-0285
      Fax: 815-377-3694
      
      On Jan 30, 2008, at 12:10 PM, Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
      
      > For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
      >
      > Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
      >
      > 1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and  
      > then turned off for flight)?
      >
      > 2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel  
      > pump?
      >
      > 3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup  
      > to the engine driven fuel pump?
      >
      > 4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause  
      > engine flooding problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      >
      > I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've  
      > flown exhibited #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      >
      > Regards,
      > Jay
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
Subject: 
RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
      
                  I run the electric pump in the tunnel for initial starting and 
      then during take off and landing at that critical part of flight where you 
      would not want your engine driven pump to fail.
      
      
      Thank You
      Ray Doerr
      40250 N519RV - 350 hours.
      
      ________________________________
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
      atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
      Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 11:11 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
      
      For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
      
      Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
      
      1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and then t
      urned off for flight)?
      
      2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump?
      
      3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup to the e
      ngine driven fuel pump?
      
      4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine flo
      oding problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      
      I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhib
      ited #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      
      Regards,
      Jay
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
LED lights
From: 
"johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      
      I noticed the ad on page 75 of the Feb Kitplanes for Kuntzlman Electronics touting
      their all LED lighting systems. A visit to their web site and a discussion
      on the phone confirmed that they have an RV-10 light package to compete with
      the Van's SYS 6 and it's all LED.
      Many years ago as a drunken sailor on infrequent shore leave I used to buy the
      girl in the short skirt's line and go for it. I've done it again. Got the package
      today and I'm impressed so far. If anyone is interested, I'll be glad to post
      or e-mail my findings as I install it. The savings is significant and it appears
      to be the real thing.
      
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161454#161454
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: LED lights
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      Is the taillight/strobe the same sized/configuration as the A500?
      
      John
      #40262
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: johngoodman 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 8:54 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: LED lights
      
      
      
      
        I noticed the ad on page 75 of the Feb Kitplanes for Kuntzlman 
      Electronics touting their all LED lighting systems. A visit to their web 
      site and a discussion on the phone confirmed that they have an RV-10 
      light package to compete with the Van's SYS 6 and it's all LED.
        Many years ago as a drunken sailor on infrequent shore leave I used to 
      buy the girl in the short skirt's line and go for it. I've done it 
      again. Got the package today and I'm impressed so far. If anyone is 
      interested, I'll be glad to post or e-mail my findings as I install it. 
      The savings is significant and it appears to be the real thing.
      
        John
      
        --------
        #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
        N711JG reserved
      
      
        Read this topic online here:
      
        http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161454#161454
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: 
LED lights
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      
      John,
      
      Please post your findings.....
      
      Thanks,
      
      Bob
      #40684, Wings arrive tomorrow
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
      Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 8:55 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: LED lights
      
      
      I noticed the ad on page 75 of the Feb Kitplanes for Kuntzlman Electronics
      touting their all LED lighting systems. A visit to their web site and a
      discussion on the phone confirmed that they have an RV-10 light package to
      compete with the Van's SYS 6 and it's all LED.
      Many years ago as a drunken sailor on infrequent shore leave I used to buy
      the girl in the short skirt's line and go for it. I've done it again. Got
      the package today and I'm impressed so far. If anyone is interested, I'll be
      glad to post or e-mail my findings as I install it. The savings is
      significant and it appears to be the real thing.
      
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161454#161454
      
      
      __________ NOD32 2837 (20080130) Information __________
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: LED lights
      
      I assume you mean "DDM-RV"?
      I like the LED strobe combo - 
      Round COMBO Taillight with LEDs & Strobe  Weight: 4 ounces, Exposed 
      Height: 1.4", Mounting holes are 2" on center and a 1.4" center hole, 
      Mounting configuration: Vertical or Horizontal
      
      TL-L/S   $$130.00
      
      same price as the Van's Whelen taillight option- I already have the 
      Whelen or I would probably jump on this offering.
      
      I am interested in your findings-
      
      Thanks!
      
      Pascal
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
      Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 5:54 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: LED lights
      
      
      
      > 
      > I noticed the ad on page 75 of the Feb Kitplanes for Kuntzlman 
      Electronics touting their all LED lighting systems. A visit to their web 
      site and a discussion on the phone confirmed that they have an RV-10 
      light package to compete with the Van's SYS 6 and it's all LED.
      > Many years ago as a drunken sailor on infrequent shore leave I used to 
      buy the girl in the short skirt's line and go for it. I've done it 
      again. Got the package today and I'm impressed so far. If anyone is 
      interested, I'll be glad to post or e-mail my findings as I install it. 
      The savings is significant and it appears to be the real thing.
      > 
      > John
      > 
      > --------
      > #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      > N711JG reserved
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161454#161454
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: LED lights
From: 
"johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Jan 30, 2008
      
      
      [quote="av8or(at)cox.net"]Is the taillight/strobe the same  sized/configuration
      as the A500?
      
       John
       #40262
      
      >    ---
      
      
      I don't have an A500 to compare but the tail light appears to have a 1&5/16" insert
      3/4" deep. 5 wires - blue & white together, then black, red, aquamarine out
      of a grey sleeve. The exposed part is a pair of flanges and a glass dome extending
      out 1&5/16". The flange is about 1&11/16" narrow and 2&5/8" wide overall.
      Two screws on the wide part of the flange at approx. 2". It will require a
      little flox buildup to streamline it to the RV-10 tail light position but it
      will be easy. Inside the glass dome is a strobe and two large LEDs. Wing lights
      are similar in size and makeup - very clean looking with only two LEDs each.
      All wiring included.
      
      We will see....
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161483#161483
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: 
Re: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
            From:  Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> 
      
            Subject:  RV10 electrically driven fuel pump 
      
            
            For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
            
            Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
            
            1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start 
      and then turned
            off for flight)?
            
      On prior to start, then off.  On for takeoff and landing.
      
            2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven 
      fuel pump? 
      
      See above - On immediately if you encounter engine problems.
            
            3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup 
      to the engine
            driven fuel pump?
      
      See above.
           
            4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause 
      engine flooding
            problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      
      Hasn't happened to me and don't see how it could.  I often leave mine on 
      from prior to start, through taxi, take off and have on a few occasions 
      forget to turn it off for more than a few minutes into the flight.
            
            I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've 
      flown exhibited
            #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      
      See Above
      
      Russ Daves - N710RV - 190+ hours
            
            Regards,
            Jay
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
darnpilot(at)aol.com
      
      All the replies are right on.=C2- One other consideration:=C2-depending 
      upon your installation (engine/fuel/FWF/ambient temps), after you get fully 
      warmed up, you might need to run the pump to prevent vapor lock/engine stumb
      ling, i.e., you just landed and its 90 degrees out, you might get the fuel o
      verheated and some vapor...a burst of the fuel pump will alleviate the probl
      em.
      
      FWIW
      
      Jeff
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
      Sent: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 2:06 pm
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
      
      
      =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- I run the
       electric pump in the tunnel for initial starting and then during take off a
      nd landing at that critical part of flight where you would not want your eng
      ine driven pump to fail. 
      
      =C2-
      
      
      Thank You
      Ray Doerr
      40250 N519RV =93 350 hours.
      
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
      tronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
      Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 11:11 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: RV10 electrically driven fuel pump
      
      
      =C2-
      
      
      For those of you already flying with a Lycoming -540 engine...
      
      Is the RV-10 electrically driven fuel pump???
      
      1) A "boost pump" (i.e. run only for engine prime prior to start and then tu
      rned off for flight)?
      
      2) Run only during flight to serve as a backup to engine driven fuel pump? 
      
      3) Run primarily at take off and landing time to serve as a backup to the en
      gine driven fuel pump?
      
      4) If both fuel pumps are run at the same time, could that cause engine floo
      ding problems? (this would seem unlikely)
      
      I believe the Cessnas I've flown exhibited #1 while Pipers I've flown exhibi
      ted #2/3. What about the RV-10?
      
      Regards,
      Jay
      
      
      =C2-
      
      =C2-
      
      =C2-
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      =C2-
      
      -========================
      ==============  
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      =C2-
      
      
      -========================
      ==============  
      
      
      ________________________________________________________________________
      aol.com
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Trimming the cowling
      
      
      For the last three days I have been staring at the first few steps of fitting the
      cowling...The plans indicate not to trim the sides but the sides interfere
      with getting to fit the nose ring. Any tips on the first few steps of the cowl?
      By using the straight edge method it looks like about an 1/8 or little more
      needs to come off the inner intake on the top cowl. The bottom doesn't sem to
      need any trimmig on the outer portion of the intakes. Comments on how those who
      have completed have done this? The masking tape method really looks like a great
      way to fit the aft part of the cowl...I just can't get a picture of how Vans
      wants you to do the first few steps.
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Trimming the cowling
From: 
"Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Rick,
      
      since I just did this step here are my lessons learned.
      1.) I had to cut a bit off the outer air intake to get the parts together. However
      do not cut along to the sides too much. I did that but I guess this will be
      no problem.
      2) I put the two halves together and drilled & clecoed them as per plans.
      3) For the further steps I followed the plans. 
      I am not done yet but I was irritated because the to halves didn't fit at the beginning
      and it looked so easy on the plans.
      
      I will try to update my web site www.wellenzohn.net with some pictures tonight.
      
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161561#161561
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: LED lights
From: 
"johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      OK, I'll try to attach some photos. As far as I'm concerned this lights are perfect
      for me. $620 plus $9 shipping. Everything in package including wiring connections,
      etc. The power supply is called the Driver and it fits on the Van's
      optional Strobe/ELT mount although the nutplates are for a smaller unit. I'll
      just modify the mount to fit.
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161568#161568
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboardwinggrn1_733.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboardwinggrn_129.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/portwingred_243.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/whitetail1_170.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/whitetail_100.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/thepackage_106.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Costs of Flying in Europe
From: 
"Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Michael and others,
      
      My wife and I are considering a job in Munich and Im wondering about the costs
      of flying in Europe.  Last year we were all abuzz with the possibility of user
      fees and a system similar to that in Europe.  Many articles said it was expensive,
      but how much?  I'm sure they were trying to use the worst case scenario
      to get us to oppose user fees (don't worry, I oppose) but what is the reality?
      
      I went online and looked up a couple of aeroclubs in Munich with their own strips
      one close to downtown the other further out.
      
      Say you just want to go out for:
      	A couple of touch and gos 
      	Take up a couple friends for a sight seeing flight around town
      	Fly about 45 minutes to your favorite lunch spot
      	Fly from Munich to Rome to visit the in-laws
      
      Roughly how much would each of these scenarios cost if flown VFR only?  Can you
      fly VFR only?  Does it make sense to ship over the Citabria?  I'm guessing it
      would have to go though a German registration process - how onerous is that?
      (My guess is sell the Citabria and buy something else already registered in Germany
      once there.)
      
      Thanks for any help!
      Jon
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161582#161582
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: 
Re: LED lights
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      If its the same tail unit I bought - note that you'll have to do a little
      work to get it to fit in fairing hole - I think its a little bigger diameter
      than the standard unit from Whelen.
      
      g 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 9:19 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: LED lights
      
      --> 
      
      OK, I'll try to attach some photos. As far as I'm concerned this lights are
      perfect for me. $620 plus $9 shipping. Everything in package including
      wiring connections, etc. The power supply is called the Driver and it fits
      on the Van's optional Strobe/ELT mount although the nutplates are for a
      smaller unit. I'll just modify the mount to fit.
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161568#161568
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboardwinggrn1_733.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboardwinggrn_129.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/portwingred_243.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/whitetail1_170.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/whitetail_100.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/thepackage_106.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Costs of Flying in Europe
From: 
"Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Hi Jon,
      good to hear from you. There are a couple things to consider. First of all Countries
      in Europe have totally different prices when it comes to landing fees etc.
      I general you can say that the fuel is definitely more expensive than in the
      US.
      In Landshut 1 Liter  was in September '07 2.11 Euro per Liter that is about 8 $
      a gallon.
      A good comparison gives you the following link of charter prices. http://www.eddh.de/info/charter.html 
      As far as I remember from Oshkosh you speak German,  else I can still translate
      :-)
      Landing fees are between 5-20 Euros and it depends sometimes if you are local pilot
      or club member.
      But flying from Munich gives you beautiful opportunities to fly to the Alps and
      visit my home country Austria or help me sanding all the composite stuff in Switzerland
      :-)
      Near Munich in Tannheim is also Tannkosh Europe biggest Flyin (guess where they
      took the name from) once a year. Drop me a line if you want more info.
      
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161640#161640
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and circuit breakers
      for the alternator output protection.
      I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A CB.
      Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash to keep the
      wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument panel.
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      I decided on mine to forego the Circuit Breaker and do the fuse thing.
      The reason is a few fold...
      
      First, I did indeed buy a breaker at one point, but it's a pretty
      fat wire you put on a 60-70A breaker, and that fat wire was stiff, and
      I heard something plastic internal to the breaker crack.  This did
      not leave me feeling very good.  I decided that unless you're
      going to have a solid way to mount a breaker, and hold the wire
      totally imobile and prevent cracking, it would not be a good idea to
      use that breaker.  Also, it isn't that easy to find a good breaker
      of that size, and at a good cost.
      
      Then, you also have the big fat wire coming up to your panel or
      subpanel, further into the cabin that it needs to be.  On mine,
      I did mount it inside the firewall, but on the firewall, but
      there is no reason that I needed to put it there.  It could have
      just as easily gone in the engine compartment. I like where it
      is, and it's worked out well though.
      
      Also, on my plane, I draw in the low 40's for amps at full draw
      with everything lit up and turned on, including pitot heat.  If my
      60A breaker blows, I really don't think it would be a good idea for
      me to re-set it in flight.  So, you may as well use a fuse, at that
      point.  I work on lots of electronic things, and I don't mind
      tinkering, but in the air is probably not the place.  I do carry
      a spare fuse though, in my kit.
      
      If you're really leaning towards a CB, then you may as well skip
      the idea of putting it under the cowl.  If you're willing to
      go under the cowl to deal with it, you shouldn't have any
      objection to staying simple and cheap and going with a fuse.
      
      As far as design goes, I was happy with my ANL fuse, because not
      only was it simple to mount and hook up, but it included a nice
      clear plastic case and cover.  So it's easy to see if it blows.
      Of course, I haven't had the opportunity to see it blown yet.
      
      Now, one other reason I don't care about re-setting a breaker
      is because with a good backup battery system, I'd rather treat
      the real unusual case of a blow B-lead breaker to be somewhat
      of an emergency....and use the hour or more of battery that I
      have left to get on the ground.  If that thing blows, I've got
      some problems somewhere, and being on the ground is a good
      plan anyway until I can figure out what caused it.
      
      Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
      
      
      orchidman wrote:
      > 
      > Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and
      > circuit breakers for the alternator output protection. I am leaning
      > to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A CB. 
      > Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash
      > to keep the wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the
      > instrument panel.
      > 
      > -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB
      > reserved)
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      two 30 or 35s in parallel with a short copper bus bar between them. Easy
      attach of the fat wire. 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 2:08 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and
      circuit breakers for the alternator output protection.
      I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A
      CB.
      Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash to keep
      the wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument
      panel.
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
Any Hawaii Builders??
      
      I will be in Hawaii in a couple of weeks and wondered if there were any RV-
      10 builders that I could stop by and visit....  Any such luck?!  I'd be gra
      teful for an island tour in other model RV's  as well!  The wife and teenag
      ers will be along.... So a formation flight would be pretty cool too!
      
      
      Pete James
      RV-10 -   90% Done - 90% to go!
      It WILL fly later this year!
      peter.james  at  sprint.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
TruTrak ADI
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      Hi:
      
      I've been looking at the TruTrak ADI (Attitude Direction Indicator) as a 
      back-up for my panel. I was reading the manual and it appears it 
      operates quite a bit differently than a standard attitude indicator.
      
      Has anyone flown with the TruTrak ADI? Could you describe your thoughts 
      on how it flew compared to a standard AI?? Did you like flying it?? Do 
      you think it is worth it?? Etc??
      
      Thanks
      
      Mark
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.  If
      the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This kept
      all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      alternator.
      
      Carl Froehlich
      RV-8A (375 hrs)
      RV-10 (wings)
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:08 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and
      circuit breakers for the alternator output protection.
      I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A
      CB.
      Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash to keep
      the wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument
      panel.
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      Aircraft Spruce sells a 60-70 alternator circuit breaker (non pull-able) relatively
      inexpensively and is the standard of certified OEM manufacturers.  They are
      also less expensive than an ANL and holder.
      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/6070amp.php
      
      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/6070circuitbreak.jpg
      
      For 60-70 AMPs the wire from the alternator only needs to be #8 AWG (or #6).  An
      #8AWG Tefzel wire is only 3/16" thick and easy to manage behind the panel attached
      to the circuit breaker.  Alternator to breaker, breaker to buss.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      
       Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and circuit
      breakers for the alternator output protection.
       I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A CB.
       Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash to keep the
      wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument panel.
      
       --------
       Gary Blankenbiller
       RV10 - # 40674
       Fuselage SB
       (N410GB reserved)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Tim Olson wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > First, I did indeed buy a breaker at one point, but it's a pretty
      > fat wire you put on a 60-70A breaker, and that fat wire was stiff, and
      > I heard something plastic internal to the breaker crack.  This did
      > not leave me feeling very good.  I decided that unless you're
      > going to have a solid way to mount a breaker, and hold the wire
      > totally mobile and prevent cracking, it would not be a good idea to
      > use that breaker.  Also, it isn't that easy to find a good breaker
      > of that size, and at a good cost.
      
      I have found a source for 60 & 70 amp CBs and yes they are very pricey but no fuseses
      that big was one of the primary reasons I have been thinking of going the
      CB route.
      
      
      > Then, you also have the big fat wire coming up to your panel or
      > subpanel, further into the cabin that it needs to be.  On mine,
      > I did mount it inside the firewall, but on the firewall, but
      > there is no reason that I needed to put it there.  It could have
      > just as easily gone in the engine compartment. I like where it
      > is, and it's worked out well though.
      
      Passing 'big' wires through the firewall bothers me and the fewer possible makes
      me feel better.  That is why I am considering possibly in front of the firewall.
      
      > Also, on my plane, I draw in the low 40's for amps at full draw
      > with everything lit up and turned on, including pitot heat.  If my
      > 60A breaker blows, I really don't think it would be a good idea for
      > me to re-set it in flight.  So, you may as well use a fuse, at that
      > point.  I work on lots of electronic things, and I don't mind
      > tinkering, but in the air is probably not the place.  I do carry
      > a spare fuse though, in my kit.
      > ...
      > As far as design goes, I was happy with my ANL fuse, because not
      > only was it simple to mount and hook up, but it included a nice
      > clear plastic case and cover.  So it's easy to see if it blows.
      > Of course, I haven't had the opportunity to see it blown yet.
      
      Do you have a good source for that big an ANL fuse?  I have checked all my normal
      sources.
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161686#161686
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
TruTrak ADI
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      I have.  I had it in another aircraft as a temporary replacement for a "real" AI
      and it was definitely different.  I never did get use to flying precisely by
      it as opposed to a real AI before I removed it (real AI was back from overhaul)
      but it has given me pause on using it in the RV-10.  I think I will trade it
      in on my True Trak autopilot purchase and get a real electrically powered AI.
      Maybe it just required getting used to.  While theoretically it offers the
      same information as a Turn coordinator plus vertical speed, I can fly with the
      turn coordinator much better than I can with the ADI.  Over time maybe that would
      change.  Results inconclusive but definitely not a slam dunk replacement.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > Hi:
      > 
      > I've been looking at the TruTrak ADI (Attitude Direction Indicator) as a back-up
      for my panel. I was reading the manual and it appears it operates quite a
      bit differently than a standard attitude indicator.
      > 
      > Has anyone flown with the TruTrak ADI? Could you describe your thoughts on how
      it flew compared to a standard AI?? Did you like flying it?? Do you think it
      is worth it?? Etc??
      > 
      > Thanks
      > 
      > Mark 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60 amps from
      the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      
      I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders connect the
      output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the starter contactor thinking
      they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of the cockpit.  You still need to
      run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the main buss.  So unless you buss
      is also forward of the firewall, you still have "heavy" wires coming into
      the cabin.
      
      Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) and then a
      separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal practice for certified aircraft.
       Also, attaching the alternator lead to the battery side of the starter
      contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or circuit breaker firewall
      forward.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      
       Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.  If
       the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
       might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
       RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This kept
       all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
       penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
       separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
       alternator.
      
       Carl Froehlich
       RV-8A (375 hrs)
       RV-10 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Trimming the cowling
From: 
"jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      Rick,
      
      Like Michael I found it necessary to trim the inner and outer walls of the air
      inlet to get the upper an lower portions to come together. I also trimmed about
      2" along the side of the upper cowl. Once you have the upper and lower cowl
      in position(let the sides of the lower cowl overlap the outside of the upper cowl)
      you can decide where you want the side seams to be. Lay out your chosen line
      on the upper cowl, cut and sand to a straight edge. Then you can use the masking
      tape trick to transfer that line to the lower cowl. I failed to mention
      in an earlier post that I also used the masking tape routine to fit my doors
      to the cabin top. It is much easier than trimming a little at a time until it
      comes together.
      
      Don't worry if you take off a little too much at some point. It is easy to build
      up an edge with a little flox if needed. Also I have seen several 10's where
      the rivets that hold the piano hinge to the cowling(and/or the paint) have started
      to crack out. I dealt with that by putting a 2 bid tape over the rivet lines.
      
      Jim Berry
      40482
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161697#161697
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      Make sure you take a look at the data sheet for your breaker before you 
      decide to upsize the number of amps too much.  For example, the 30 amp 
      Tyco breaker I'm using for my backup SD-20 alternator is rated such that 
      it may take up to 1 hour at 145% or 43 amps before it trips.  At 200%, 
      i.e. 60 amps, it may still take up to 30 seconds to trip.  If that 
      breaker trips, then my alternator is definitely overloaded and I'd sure 
      want to take a look at the problem before continuing on.
      
      PJ Seipel
      RV-10 #40032
      
      Carl Froehlich wrote:
      >
      > Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.  If
      > the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      > might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      > RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This kept
      > all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      > penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      > separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      > alternator.
      >
      > Carl Froehlich
      > RV-8A (375 hrs)
      > RV-10 (wings)
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
      > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:08 PM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      >
      >
      > Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and
      > circuit breakers for the alternator output protection.
      > I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place the 60A
      > CB.
      > Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash to keep
      > the wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument
      > panel.
      >
      > --------
      > Gary Blankenbiller
      > RV10 - # 40674
      > Fuselage SB
      > (N410GB reserved)
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      How many REALLY need 60 amps for their panel?? Just rhetorical question. I
      don't see any problem using a 50-55amp
      CB on a 60 amp alternator. Alternators are normally sized so that they
      aren't called upon to produce more than 85 percent of their nominal rating.
      So using a 50 amp CB would ensure you don't exceed 85% by very much.
      
      On Jan 31, 2008 5:40 PM, William Curtis  wrote:
      
      >
      > If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60
      > amps from the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      >
      > I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders connect
      > the output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the starter
      > contactor thinking they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of the cockpit.
      >  You still need to run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the main
      > buss.  So unless you buss is also forward of the firewall, you still have
      > "heavy" wires coming into the cabin.
      >
      > Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) and
      > then a separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal practice for
      > certified aircraft.   Also, attaching the alternator lead to the battery
      > side of the starter contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or
      > circuit breaker firewall forward.
      >
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
      > and those who matter don't mind."
      > -- Dr. Suess
      >
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      >
      >  Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.
      >  If
      >  the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      >  might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      >  RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This
      > kept
      >  all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      >  penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      >  separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      >  alternator.
      >
      >  Carl Froehlich
      >  RV-8A (375 hrs)
      >  RV-10 (wings)
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      > Passing 'big' wires through the firewall bothers me and the fewer possibl
      e makes me feel better.  That is why I am considering possibly in front of 
      the firewall.=0A=0AIn the RV-10 with a rear mounted battery, you have
       to pass at least ONE "big" wire through the firewall.  Well ---correction,
       I don't have ANY "big" wires going throught my firewall.  I only have an 8
      AWG wire from the alternator going through my firewall.  Not even the main 
      battery to starter contactor cable.  I use a thru bulkhead connector show o
      n the attached picture.  On the firewall side is attached the starter conta
      ctor as shown.  On the cabin side is attached the main battery cable and th
      e (smaller) battery cable to the buss.=0A=0A=0AWilliam=0Ahttp:/
      /wcurtis.nerv10.com/=0A"Be who you are and say what you feel because tho
      se who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."=0A-- Dr. Sues
      s =0A=0A
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      You have a point if you assume a traditional power distribution scheme.
      With dual electronic ignitions and an all electric panel, I opted for a more
      reliable approach than that used in certified aircraft.
      
      The issue of big wires through the firewall is really secondary.
      
      Carl
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:40 PM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60 amps
      from the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      
      I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders connect
      the output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the starter
      contactor thinking they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of the cockpit.
      You still need to run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the main
      buss.  So unless you buss is also forward of the firewall, you still have
      "heavy" wires coming into the cabin.
      
      Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) and then
      a separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal practice for
      certified aircraft.   Also, attaching the alternator lead to the battery
      side of the starter contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or
      circuit breaker firewall forward.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
      and those who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      
       Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.  If
       the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
       might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
       RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This kept
       all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
       penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
       separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
       alternator.
      
       Carl Froehlich
       RV-8A (375 hrs)
       RV-10 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
      
      
      [quote="wcurtis(at)nerv10.com"]
      > I use a thru bulkhead connector show on the attached picture. 
      
      William,
      Where did you source your connector?
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161735#161735
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      That's exactly my reasoning on using a 60A fuse (despite my 70A
      alternator). The fact is, if I find myself drawing 60A off
      my alternator, something is not right at all.  None of my
      avionics or equipment can draw that much, so my battery or
      wires are shorted or something.  You don't size your fuse by
      the alternator, you size it to the max load you care to see
      before you blow.  A 60A ANL fuse won't blow until well over
      60A anyway, so if that baby blows, I sure as heck don't
      want to push a reset button in flight and figure it out.
      That fuse/breaker is a very big problem indicator.
      Tim
      
      
      PJ Seipel wrote:
      > 
      > Make sure you take a look at the data sheet for your breaker before you 
      > decide to upsize the number of amps too much.  For example, the 30 amp 
      > Tyco breaker I'm using for my backup SD-20 alternator is rated such that 
      > it may take up to 1 hour at 145% or 43 amps before it trips.  At 200%, 
      > i.e. 60 amps, it may still take up to 30 seconds to trip.  If that 
      > breaker trips, then my alternator is definitely overloaded and I'd sure 
      > want to take a look at the problem before continuing on.
      > 
      > PJ Seipel
      > RV-10 #40032
      > 
      > Carl Froehlich wrote:
      >> 
      >>
      >> Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious 
      >> trips.  If
      >> the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      >> might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      >> RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This 
      >> kept
      >> all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      >> penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      >> separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      >> alternator.
      >>
      >> Carl Froehlich
      >> RV-8A (375 hrs)
      >> RV-10 (wings)
      >>
      >> -----Original Message-----
      >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
      >> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:08 PM
      >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      >> Subject: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      >>
      >>
      >> Examining other builders wiring diagrams, I am finding both fuses and
      >> circuit breakers for the alternator output protection.
      >> I am leaning to a CB but would like some input as to where to place 
      >> the 60A
      >> CB.
      >> Possible options would be forward of the firewall, or under the dash 
      >> to keep
      >> the wires as short as possible, or normally positioned on the instrument
      >> panel.
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Gary Blankenbiller
      >> RV10 - # 40674
      >> Fuselage SB
      >> (N410GB reserved)
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161652#161652
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>   
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      > 
      > I have found a source for 60 & 70 amp CBs and yes they are very
      > pricey but no fuseses that big was one of the primary reasons I have
      > been thinking of going the CB route.
      > 
      
      
      Just search for ANL online...they're all over in the card audio
      type places.  Nice ones, too, with gold plating and good
      housings.
      
      
      > 
      > Passing 'big' wires through the firewall bothers me and the fewer
      > possible makes me feel better.  That is why I am considering possibly
      > in front of the firewall.
      > 
      
      Yes, but the biggest, nastiest wire in your plane is the one
      going from your battery forward.  That battery can source hundreds
      of amps, and it doesn't stop when the engine stops.  People forget
      that of the "big wires" they're worried about, some of those
      are the biggest worry.  Sooner or later you need to put that
      power to the panel busses.....doesn't matter where it comes
      in from.
      
      
      > 
      > Do you have a good source for that big an ANL fuse?  I have checked
      > all my normal sources.
      > 
      
      All over online.  Even Ebay.
      
      
      > -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB
      > reserved)
      
      
      Tim
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Jan 31, 2008
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      OK, that answer prompts another question that is not rhetorical.
      
      >I have a dual battery install with separate right/left busses that support continued
      IFR flight without the alternator.
      Continued IFR without an alternator-- How is that possible?  OK, maybe possible,
      but prudent?
      
      I used the term traditional because there are many ways to put all the wires together
      to achieve the same ends.  The certified aircraft to which I am referring
      is the all electric dual battery, dual main, dual avionics buss Cirrus SR series.
      They used to have their POH on line that anyone could download which detailed
      the electrical system.  I can't find it on their site anymore but  I have
      the SR22 POH in pdf if anyone is interested.
      
      By all accounts, the Cirrus system is very good and reliable but I don't think
      even Cirrus will say you can continue IFR flight without the alternator.  And
      the Cirrus engine is not dependant on the electrical system as your electronic
      ignition is.  If you have a design that is more robust than the Cirrus, I (and
      I'm sure other builders) would be very interested in seeing it.
      
      I apologize in advanced for the pointed questions, however as builders, I think
      we sometimes design pens that work in zero-g rather than just using a pencil.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > 
      > You have a point if you assume a traditional power distribution scheme.
      > With dual electronic ignitions and an all electric panel, I opted for a more
      > reliable approach than that used in certified aircraft.
      > 
      > The issue of big wires through the firewall is really secondary.
      > 
      > Carl
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
      > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:40 PM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      > 
      > 
      > If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60 amps
      > from the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      > 
      > I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders connect
      > the output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the starter
      > contactor thinking they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of the cockpit.
      > You still need to run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the main
      > buss.  So unless you buss is also forward of the firewall, you still have
      > "heavy" wires coming into the cabin.
      > 
      > Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) and then
      > a separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal practice for
      > certified aircraft.   Also, attaching the alternator lead to the battery
      > side of the starter contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or
      > circuit breaker firewall forward.
      > 
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
      > and those who matter don't mind."
      > -- Dr. Suess 
      > 
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      > 
      >  Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.  If
      >  the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      >  might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      >  RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This kept
      >  all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      >  penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      >  separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      >  alternator.
      >  
      >  Carl Froehlich
      >  RV-8A (375 hrs)
      >  RV-10 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
"Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
      
      William, the attachment supports your comments.
      
      I have just completed an endorsement on the Cirrus SR-20 (need to fly
      something similar until the ten is completed!) and I experienced an ALT2
      failure last Sunday whilst VFR, so these things do happen and from what
      I have been told are common.
      
      Patrick
      #40299	VH-XPP
      Adelaide, South Australia
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: William Curtis [mailto:wcurtis(at)nerv10.com] 
      Sent: Friday, 1 February 2008 1:50 PM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      OK, that answer prompts another question that is not rhetorical.
      
      >I have a dual battery install with separate right/left busses that
      support continued IFR flight without the alternator.
      Continued IFR without an alternator-- How is that possible?  OK, maybe
      possible, but prudent?
      
      I used the term traditional because there are many ways to put all the
      wires together to achieve the same ends.  The certified aircraft to
      which I am referring is the all electric dual battery, dual main, dual
      avionics buss Cirrus SR series.  They used to have their POH on line
      that anyone could download which detailed the electrical system.  I
      can't find it on their site anymore but  I have the SR22 POH in pdf if
      anyone is interested.
      
      By all accounts, the Cirrus system is very good and reliable but I don't
      think even Cirrus will say you can continue IFR flight without the
      alternator.  And the Cirrus engine is not dependant on the electrical
      system as your electronic ignition is.  If you have a design that is
      more robust than the Cirrus, I (and I'm sure other builders) would be
      very interested in seeing it.
      
      I apologize in advanced for the pointed questions, however as builders,
      I think we sometimes design pens that work in zero-g rather than just
      using a pencil.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
      matter and those who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > --> 
      > 
      > You have a point if you assume a traditional power distribution
      scheme.
      > With dual electronic ignitions and an all electric panel, I opted for 
      > a more reliable approach than that used in certified aircraft.
      > 
      > The issue of big wires through the firewall is really secondary.
      > 
      > Carl
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William 
      > Curtis
      > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:40 PM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      > 
      > 
      > If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60
      
      > amps from the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      > 
      > I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders 
      > connect the output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the 
      > starter contactor thinking they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of
      the cockpit.
      > You still need to run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the 
      > main buss.  So unless you buss is also forward of the firewall, you 
      > still have "heavy" wires coming into the cabin.
      > 
      > Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) 
      > and then a separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal
      practice for
      > certified aircraft.   Also, attaching the alternator lead to the
      battery
      > side of the starter contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or 
      > circuit breaker firewall forward.
      > 
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't 
      > matter and those who matter don't mind."
      > -- Dr. Suess
      > 
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      > > 
      > 
      >  Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious 
      > trips.  If  the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem,
      
      > something you  might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting 
      > the breaker.  In my  RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of
      
      > the firewall.  This kept  all the heavy wiring on the engine side of 
      > the firewall except for one  penetration to the starter solenoid.  I 
      > have a dual battery install with  separate right/left busses that 
      > support continued IFR flight without the  alternator.
      >  
      >  Carl Froehlich
      >  RV-8A (375 hrs)
      >  RV-10 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: 
Re: Costs of Flying in Europe
      
      
      Jon,
      
      there are several N registered plans flying in Europe so that might be 
      something to consider, you just need to get an approval from the LBA 
      (the German FAA) to fly your plane in Europe and you have to stick to 
      the US rules concerning inspection, insurance etc. (check with the FAA). 
      Just any landing/touch will cost you money and as Michael told fuel is 
      expensive!
      
      BTW "Tankosh" is pretty much in between Munich and Michaels homtown Zurich!
      
      Let us know if we can help more!
      
      Werner
      
      Jon Reining wrote:
      >
      > Michael and others,
      >
      > My wife and I are considering a job in Munich and Im wondering about the costs
      of flying in Europe.  Last year we were all abuzz with the possibility of user
      fees and a system similar to that in Europe.  Many articles said it was expensive,
      but how much?  I'm sure they were trying to use the worst case scenario
      to get us to oppose user fees (don't worry, I oppose) but what is the reality?
      >
      > I went online and looked up a couple of aeroclubs in Munich with their own strips
      one close to downtown the other further out.
      >
      > Say you just want to go out for:
      > 	A couple of touch and gos 
      > 	Take up a couple friends for a sight seeing flight around town
      > 	Fly about 45 minutes to your favorite lunch spot
      > 	Fly from Munich to Rome to visit the in-laws
      >
      > Roughly how much would each of these scenarios cost if flown VFR only?  Can you
      fly VFR only?  Does it make sense to ship over the Citabria?  I'm guessing
      it would have to go though a German registration process - how onerous is that?
      (My guess is sell the Citabria and buy something else already registered in
      Germany once there.)
      >
      > Thanks for any help!
      > Jon
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161582#161582
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
"sam(at)fr8dog.net" <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: 
Re: TruTrak ADI
      
      
      We have one in our RV10, I wouldn't do it again, it's difficult to use, in hard
      IFR.
      Sam Marlow
      ---- FLAGSTONE  wrote: 
      
      ============
      Hi:
      
      I've been looking at the TruTrak ADI (Attitude Direction Indicator) as a back-up
      for my panel. I was reading the manual and it appears it operates quite a bit
      differently than a standard attitude indicator.
      
      Has anyone flown with the TruTrak ADI? Could you describe your thoughts on how
      it flew compared to a standard AI?? Did you like flying it?? Do you think it is
      worth it?? Etc??
      
      Thanks
      
      Mark
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: O-540 C4B5
From: 
"ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com>
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      
      I see many more C4B5-type engines listed than the D-series engines. Are the 700+
      of us -10 builders keeping the demand high, or is the D-series just less common?
      
      --------
      RV-10 Builder #40546
      Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161805#161805
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
TruTrak ADI
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      Has anyone though of using or had any experience with the Egyro http://www.
      pcflightsystems.com/EGYRO2.htm ? Aviation consumer did a review on it a few
       years ago and liked it, but I haven't heard much feedback on it. 
      
      Vern (#324 windows) 
      
      
      > Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 02:35:57 -0500> From: sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> To: 
      rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TruTrak ADI> > --> RV10-Li
      st message posted by: "sam(at)fr8dog.net" > > We have
       one in our RV10, I wouldn't do it again, it's difficult to use, in hard IF
      R.> Sam Marlow> ---- FLAGSTONE  wrote: > > ====
      =========> Hi:> > I've been looking at the TruTrak ADI (A
      ttitude Direction Indicator) as a back-up for my panel. I was reading the m
      anual and it appears it operates quite a bit differently than a standard at
      titude indicator.> > Has anyone flown with the TruTrak ADI? Could you descr
      ibe your thoughts on how it flew compared to a standard AI?? Did you like f
      ========================> _
      =====================> > > 
      _________________________________________________________________
      Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
      ive.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
Subject: 
Re: O-540 C4B5
From: 
tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      
      
      A very probable reason for the abundance of the C4B5 is shear numbers. 
      The most built aircraft with this engine is the Aztec.  There are over
      2400 Aztecs registered (and they each have two engines).  
      
      The D4A5 was in the Comanche 260. There are only 700 of them registered.
      Hmmm.
      
      I try to get the best ones, overhaul them, and recertify them, and sell
      them.  Either makes a good choice.
      
      Tom
      970-420-1798
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did see the
      first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
      Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming the
      inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked through the archives
      I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is there a primer system that
      is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based
      upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      Chuck Henry
      
      #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
       http://tinyurl.com/2ew2k5
      
       http://tinyurl.com/2gwsn6
      
       under $18
      
       The 2202 red unit offers the same 5/16" size stud diameter as the starter and
      starter contacter.  I had bought another one that was a bit smaller however it
      had 3/8" stud size.  I wanted to keep the terminal stud sizes consistent.
      
       William
       http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      
      
       -------- Original Message -------- 
      >RV10-List message posted by: "orchidman" 
      
       William,
       Where did you source your connector?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      Primer war coming right up.  I can't imagine there isn't much in the  
      archives, because there have been so many posts regarding primers in  
      the past.  Now people shy away from primer e-mails like the plague.
      
      In short, there is no agreement as a group as to whether or not to  
      prime, whether or not to alodine, and what primer to use if you are  
      going to prime.
      
      I have used several primers and am happiest with the Akzo Nobel apoxy  
      
      primer that Spruce sells.  It is tough as nails when it cures.  A lot  
      
      of people are quite happy with rattle cans of self-etching primer they  
      
      get at Sherwin Williams or your local Auto Parts store.  Others won't  
      
      prime because the aluminum has the alclad surface.  It's all up to you.
      
      The Akzo Nobel stuff is probably one of the more complicated to apply,  
      
      since it requires mixing and a spray gun, whereas the rattle can you  
      just shake and apply.  With primer that you have to mix, you will want  
      
      to prepare as many parts as you can and then prime them at once,  
      making sure that you mark them well so as not to confuse which part  
      goes where.
      
      Jesse Saint
      Saint Aviation, Inc.
      jesse(at)saintaviation.com
      Cell: 352-427-0285
      Fax: 815-377-3694
      
      On Feb 1, 2008, at 11:07 AM, Chuck Henry wrote:
      
      > I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did  
      > see the first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about  
      
      > my question.  Section 5A of our builder=92s manual has several  
      > suggestions for priming the inside parts of the aircraft  
      > structures.  When I looked through the archives I found little in  
      > the way of recommendations.  Is there a primer system that is better  
      
      > suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based  
      > upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Chuck Henry
      > #40806 ' Vertical Stabilizer
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      and so the primer war begins!
      Chuck- look through the archives and www.vansairforce.net forums for 
      everyone's opinion on primers. I can tell you that the easiest for me 
      was the Sherwin Williams DTM wash primer. It has worked well for me as 
      it does not require any mixing and it is water soluble so less toxic 
      with soap and water clean-up.
      There are more durable 2 part primers but I didn't want that hassle.
      Pascal
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Chuck Henry 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:07 AM
        Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
        I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did see 
      the first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my 
      question.  Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions 
      for priming the inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked 
      through the archives I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is 
      there a primer system that is better suited than the others that the 
      group has some agreement on based upon ease of preparation and 
      application, better protection and costs?
      
         
      
        Thanks,
      
        Chuck Henry
      
        #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
         
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
Subject: 
Ammeter Location
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      The ammeter shunt in the path from the battery to the buss is known as Battery
      Lead mode.  This would be my preferred way to install the ammeter as it allows
      you to see how much current you are consuming when the alternator is OFF LINE.
      When the alternator is functioning normally, it shows how much current is being
      used to charge the battery.  This mode is typically used in Cessnas.
      
      The other way of wiring the ammeter is in Alternator Lead mode.  That is, it is
      in the path between the alternator and the buss.  This mode will show how much
      current is being produced by the alternator.  In an alternator failure it would
      just read zero.  This is mode typically used in Pipers.
      
      The stand alone ammeter instruments allows either mode but some EFIS restrict you
      to one mode or another.  I know AFS for example only supports Alternator Lead
      mode.  Dynon supports both modes, I'm not sure what Chelton, or GRT, supports.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > -- RV10-List message posted by: Jesse Saint 
      
       This brings up another issue.  Where are people putting their ammeter  
       shunts?  You can measure how much is coming out of or going into the  
       battery, how much the alternator is putting out, or how much your  
       system is drawing, depending on where you put it.
      
       I have been putting it between the starter solenoid and the bus, and I  
       connect the alternator to the bus side, so basically it is reading  
       what is happening to the battery, whether charging or discharging,  
       except, of course, when cranking.  Now with the VP, since it tells me  
       how much power the system is using at any given time, I have put it  
       between the alternator and the system, so I know how much the  
       alternator is putting out.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      Ugh, didn't mean to start something bad.  I did find some information on the
      vansairforce website which provided some direction.  Thanks for the
      suggestions.
      
      
      Chuck  
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:51 AM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      and so the primer war begins!
      
      Chuck- look through the archives and www.vansairforce.net forums for
      everyone's opinion on primers. I can tell you that the easiest for me was
      the Sherwin Williams DTM wash primer. It has worked well for me as it does
      not require any mixing and it is water soluble so less toxic with soap and
      water clean-up.
      
      There are more durable 2 part primers but I didn't want that hassle.
      
      Pascal
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      
      From: Chuck Henry <mailto:cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>  
      
      
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:07 AM
      
      Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did see the
      first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
      Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming the
      inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked through the archives
      I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is there a primer system that
      is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based
      upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      Chuck Henry
      
      #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
      /Navigator?RV10-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: 
Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      And if you don't find any other notes on it - take a look at Stewart Systems
      Ecko Etch and Sealer/Primer - water borne, easy cleanup.  So far I'm very
      pleased with it.
      
      g
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 9:32 AM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      Ugh, didn't mean to start something bad.  I did find some information on the
      vansairforce website which provided some direction.  Thanks for the
      suggestions.
      
      
      Chuck  
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:51 AM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      and so the primer war begins!
      
      Chuck- look through the archives and www.vansairforce.net forums for
      everyone's opinion on primers. I can tell you that the easiest for me was
      the Sherwin Williams DTM wash primer. It has worked well for me as it does
      not require any mixing and it is water soluble so less toxic with soap and
      water clean-up.
      
      There are more durable 2 part primers but I didn't want that hassle.
      
      Pascal
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      
      From: Chuck  <mailto:cchenry01(at)hotmail.com> Henry 
      
      
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:07 AM
      
      Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did see the
      first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
      Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming the
      inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked through the archives
      I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is there a primer system that
      is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based
      upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      Chuck Henry
      
      #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
      /Navigator?RV10-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      Chuck
      
      Welcome!
      
      You didn't say anything bad. What no one will tell you is that the absolutely best
      way to prime is to first <(*%@%)*&%$@#&^*&%*&%&&878G&^&*&6 a portion of this
      message was lost in transmission ---- thereby giving really great resuls.
      
      Cheers
      
      Les Kearney
      #40643
      C-GCWZ reserved
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Chuck Henry <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
      Date: Friday, February 1, 2008 10:52 am
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      > Ugh, didn't mean to start something bad.  I did find some 
      > information on the
      > vansairforce website which provided some direction.  Thanks 
      > for the
      > suggestions.
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Chuck  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >   _____  
      > 
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
      > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:51 AM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > and so the primer war begins!
      > 
      > Chuck- look through the archives and www.vansairforce.net forums for
      > everyone's opinion on primers. I can tell you that the easiest 
      > for me was
      > the Sherwin Williams DTM wash primer. It has worked well for me 
      > as it does
      > not require any mixing and it is water soluble so less toxic 
      > with soap and
      > water clean-up.
      > 
      > There are more durable 2 part primers but I didn't want that hassle.
      > 
      > Pascal
      > 
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > 
      > From: Chuck Henry <mailto:cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>  
      > 
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
      > 
      > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:07 AM
      > 
      > Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  
      > I did see the
      > first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my 
      > question.Section 5A of our builder's manual has several 
      > suggestions for priming the
      > inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked 
      > through the archives
      > I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is there a 
      > primer system that
      > is better suited than the others that the group has some 
      > agreement on based
      > upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Thanks,
      > 
      > Chuck Henry
      > 
      > #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      >  
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
      > List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      > 
      >  
      >  
      >  
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      I'm from the school of "I'll only prime something if I absolutely  
      have to."  So, I'm only priming the steel parts, spot priming  
      scratched Alclad with rattle can Zinc Chromate and plan on a shot of  
      Corrosion X when all is said and done.
      
      That said, I would like to pose a question to those now flying.  Have  
      
      you found any areas where moisture does accumulate without a quick  
      means of either draining or evaporating?  I remember when I was  
      working on an RV-6 that most everyone drilled a small hole in the  
      lowest spot on the tail to allow for drainage of water that  
      accumulated there.
      
      If there are areas where water collects, I'll want to spot prime them  
      
      before I really button things up
      
      Jeff Carpenter
      40304
      N410CF Reserved
      Almost through The Dreaded Section 29
      Finish Kit on order
      
      
      On Feb 1, 2008, at 8:07 AM, Chuck Henry wrote:
      
      > I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did  
      > see the first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about  
      
      > my question.  Section 5A of our builder=92s manual has several  
      > suggestions for priming the inside parts of the aircraft  
      > structures.  When I looked through the archives I found little in  
      > the way of recommendations.  Is there a primer system that is  
      > better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on  
      > based upon ease of preparation and application, better protection  
      > and costs?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Chuck Henry
      > #40806 ' Vertical Stabilizer
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Maule Driver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      Welcome aboard Chuck.  You probably have no idea what you just stepped 
      on (re primers that is).  There are as many different opinions as there 
      are builders.... are you belt, suspender, or belt and suspender guy?  
      Low rider perhaps?  Sorry.
      
      Anyway, I used the same stuff that Vans uses on the QB kit - Sherwin 
      Williams  Wash Primer.  I have no experience to  base that on, just 
      selected one from the many options that should be well documented in the 
      archives.
      
      One point most agree with; Vans is pretty much agnostic as far as prime. 
       No primer is required for the most part from there point of view.  But 
      where they 'suggest' priming in the plans, it's probably a good idea to 
      definitely prime those (few) parts.
      
      I look back at 1.5 years and marvel at all the energy I put into primer 
      research.  I'm pretty confident that any of the approaches taken is 
      sound.  
      
      Enjoy!
      Bill Watson
      40605
      Durham NC
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Chuck Henry 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:07 AM
        Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
        I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did see 
      the first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my 
      question.  Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions 
      for priming the inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked 
      through the archives I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is 
      there a primer system that is better suited than the others that the 
      group has some agreement on based upon ease of preparation and 
      application, better protection and costs?
      
         
      
        Thanks,
      
        Chuck Henry
      
        #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
         
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      
      planesmith(at)hotmail.com wrote:
      > B&C Specialty Products is one source. See link below. 
      >   
      >  http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X358218#c905-100 (http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X358218#c905-100)
      > 
      > Vern Smith (#324 windows)
      > 
      
      Vern and all,
      Thanks,
      I found a source from Tim's post from AeroElectric.  Googling the base # I found www.drillspot.com.  They have the base and a 50 amp fuse.
      Your link to www.bandc.biz has a better price by a couple dollars but they don't stock the 50 amp.  So more thinking will be in order.
      
      Williams link to fisheriessupply.com is a great link to the Feed Through Terminals.
      
      
      Now I will start looking for the Shotkey diodes.  A quick look at the BandC site
      looks like they have a 15 amp-25 amp max version for $7 or $18 with a heat sink.
      With all of your help, it looks  like I am starting to nail down the various small
      items that complete the wiring diagrams.
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161915#161915
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      > Now I will start looking for the Shotkey diodes.  A quick look at the BandC site
      looks like they have a 15 amp-25 amp max version for $7 or $18 with a heat
      sink.
       With all of your help, it looks  like I am starting to nail down the various small
      items that complete the wiring diagrams.
      
      The B&C diode is not a schottky diode but a bridge rectifier and has a rather large
      forward voltage of about 1 volt.  A true schottky diode will have a max forward
      voltage drop of about .5 volts, but as low as .1 volts.
      
      Here is a 60A Schottky for $30. 
      http://www.periheliondesign.com/powerschottkydiodes.htm
      
      Radio shack 25A rectifier $3.29
      <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62584&cp=&pg=1&sr=1&origkw=diode&kw=diode&parentPage=search>
      
      Some more Schottky
      http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/L227.pdf
      
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      
      If you really enjoy your RV-10 building project and are looking for a way to 
      make it last even longer than just a slow build kit, you may want to 
      consider the primer system we've used on the 3 Glastars we've build and 
      presently are using on our RV-10.    Deft primer 44-G-11 is a two-part water 
      reduced epoxy (developed for Boeing)  that also requires acid etching and 
      can really make the project take forever! (oh yeah, the mix ratio is a handy 
      2 : 1: 4.5.)   On the good side, when it cures it's ridiculously hard and 
      resistant to anything we could do to it.    Don't let it get on anything you 
      don't want it permanently attached to!    Sarcasim asside,  it appears to be 
      a terrific primer.  9 years of annual inspections of our oldest Glastar 
      (often kept near the NJ shore) have shown zero corrison.
      
      Bob Newman
      40176 super slow build
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: Minimum Instruments ( was TruTrak ADI)
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      Hi:
      
      Thank you all for very informed responses.  I spoke to TruTrak today and got
      a better understanding of  "how" the ADI works internally.  Your comments
      provide a lot of insight into its practical use.
      
      A couple of the responses brought up the loss of the Airspeed Indicator.
      That raised some more questions for me that those with the ADI and the other
      instrument pilots might be able to help with.  They still relate to the ADI
      in a general sense.
      
      Given, the following three instrument combinations:
      
       Magnetic Compass and Altimeter and ONE of the following:
              A.  Turn Coordinator
              B.  Attitude Indicator
              C.  Attitude Direction Indicator
      
      1. Which combination(s), if any, would allow you to maintain control in IMC?
      
      2.  If you accept the fact that the ADI is not a true pitch instrument would
      the ADI provide better control reference than the Attitude Indicator because
      of its integral VSI function.
      
      Thanks
      
      Mark
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Alternator Circuit Breaker
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      
      William,
      
      Some thoughts on your question:
      >I have a dual battery install with separate right/left busses that support
      continued IFR flight without the alternator.
      Continued IFR without an alternator-- How is that possible?  OK, maybe
      possible, but prudent?
      
      No, not prudent just as it is not prudent to fly on a single ignition.  The
      capability to do so however is desirable.
      
      For my RV-8A install, the design criteria was continued IFR flight for three
      hours with a failed alternator.  The POH procedure however for an alternator
      failure is to land as soon as it is safe to do so.  Keep in mind while the
      panel is fully up, including continuous transponder use and radios,
      unnecessary loads are shed by opening both battery master relays (the relays
      themselves being significant and unnecessary loads).  Non-vital loads can be
      restored anytime by shutting a master relay.  Here is a link to Tim's web
      page that has an old version of this power distribution system.
      http://myrv10.com/tips/electrical.html
      
      I have since updated this design as there are better components on the
      market.  The concept however remains the same, protect the most reliable
      energy source (batteries), assume there will be a failure and allow the
      system to degrade gracefully, not catastrophically, and do not have a single
      point failure lead to total power loss.  The most failure prone component is
      the alternator.  This is one of the reasons why I went with two equal sized
      batteries and a single alternator.  
      
      You'll note that the electronic ignitions have no alternate power source,
      just the battery they are wired to.  For the LightSpeed EIs, operation on
      single ignition is not discernible from dual operation.  Note also however,
      the direct connection of each ignition to each battery.  This is done to
      eliminate other electrical bus failure modes taking out that side's
      ignition. 
      
       As you say, there are a lot of good designs that offer better electrical
      power reliably than that of traditional certified aircraft.  This is just
      one attempt.
      
      Carl
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 10:20 PM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      OK, that answer prompts another question that is not rhetorical.
      
      >I have a dual battery install with separate right/left busses that support
      continued IFR flight without the alternator.
      Continued IFR without an alternator-- How is that possible?  OK, maybe
      possible, but prudent?
      
      I used the term traditional because there are many ways to put all the wires
      together to achieve the same ends.  The certified aircraft to which I am
      referring is the all electric dual battery, dual main, dual avionics buss
      Cirrus SR series.  They used to have their POH on line that anyone could
      download which detailed the electrical system.  I can't find it on their
      site anymore but  I have the SR22 POH in pdf if anyone is interested.
      
      By all accounts, the Cirrus system is very good and reliable but I don't
      think even Cirrus will say you can continue IFR flight without the
      alternator.  And the Cirrus engine is not dependant on the electrical system
      as your electronic ignition is.  If you have a design that is more robust
      than the Cirrus, I (and I'm sure other builders) would be very interested in
      seeing it.
      
      I apologize in advanced for the pointed questions, however as builders, I
      think we sometimes design pens that work in zero-g rather than just using a
      pencil.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
      and those who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > 
      > You have a point if you assume a traditional power distribution scheme.
      > With dual electronic ignitions and an all electric panel, I opted for a
      more
      > reliable approach than that used in certified aircraft.
      > 
      > The issue of big wires through the firewall is really secondary.
      > 
      > Carl
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
      > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 7:40 PM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      > 
      > 
      > If all the "heavy" wiring is on the engine side, how do you get the 60
      amps
      > from the alternator to the buss?  That's rhetorical.
      > 
      > I think I know what you are saying because I see a lot of builders connect
      > the output lead of the alternator to the battery side of the starter
      > contactor thinking they are keeping the "heavy" wires out of the cockpit.
      > You still need to run a "heavy" wire from the battery cable to the main
      > buss.  So unless you buss is also forward of the firewall, you still have
      > "heavy" wires coming into the cabin.
      > 
      > Having a cable from the alternator to the bus (via breaker or fuse) and
      then
      > a separate cable from the battery to the buss is normal practice for
      > certified aircraft.   Also, attaching the alternator lead to the battery
      > side of the starter contactor MANDATES putting the alternator fuse or
      > circuit breaker firewall forward.
      > 
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter
      > and those who matter don't mind."
      > -- Dr. Suess 
      > 
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > >  RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" 
      > 
      >  Use a 70 amp breaker with a 60 amp alternator to avoid spurious trips.
      If
      >  the breaker does trip it means there is a serious problem, something you
      >  might not want to troubleshoot in flight by resetting the breaker.  In my
      >  RV-8A I mounted the breaker on the engine side of the firewall.  This
      kept
      >  all the heavy wiring on the engine side of the firewall except for one
      >  penetration to the starter solenoid.  I have a dual battery install with
      >  separate right/left busses that support continued IFR flight without the
      >  alternator.
      >  
      >  Carl Froehlich
      >  RV-8A (375 hrs)
      >  RV-10 (wings)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
      
      No primer, except on QB kits (Van's did it) or on bare steel parts.  I 
      am using ACF-50, Boeshield or Corrosion-X  leaning towards Boeshield.  
      Quick, clean, easy and lite.    Wipe a thin coat on interior skin 
      surfaces or any other part not to be painted before or after assembly.  
      Apply liberally after paint.
      
      http://boeshield.com/index.html
      
      http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html
      
      http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html
      
      Dave Leikam
      40496
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Chuck Henry 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:31 AM
        Subject: RE: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
        Ugh, didn't mean to start something bad.  I did find some information 
      on the vansairforce website which provided some direction.  Thanks for 
      the suggestions.
      
         
      
        Chuck  
      
         
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
      
        From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
        Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 11:51 AM
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: Re: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
         
      
        and so the primer war begins!
      
        Chuck- look through the archives and www.vansairforce.net forums for 
      everyone's opinion on primers. I can tell you that the easiest for me 
      was the Sherwin Williams DTM wash primer. It has worked well for me as 
      it does not require any mixing and it is water soluble so less toxic 
      with soap and water clean-up.
      
        There are more durable 2 part primers but I didn't want that hassle.
      
        Pascal
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
      
          From: Chuck Henry 
      
          To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
      
          Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:07 AM
      
          Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
           
      
          I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement.  I did 
      see the first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my 
      question.  Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions 
      for priming the inside parts of the aircraft structures.  When I looked 
      through the archives I found little in the way of recommendations.  Is 
      there a primer system that is better suited than the others that the 
      group has some agreement on based upon ease of preparation and 
      application, better protection and costs?
      
           
      
          Thanks,
      
          Chuck Henry
      
          #40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
      
           
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
      s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
      ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
      .matronics.com/c  http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
"Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: 
Foam core
      
      
      I screwed up about 20 % of the foam core to the oil door.  It broke off 
      when I unwrapped it and then lost the piece.  Anything special about 
      that foam?  Anything readily available to use? 
      
      Thanks in advance. 
      
      Dr Fred. 
      
      40515
      cowling actually fit tonight with skybolt /camlocks.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: 
Re: Foam core
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      I believe that foam core is just a like a  flller  or should I say something 
      to make that door thicker so you do not have to fill with bog etc, so what 
      about balsa wood or somthing light like that?? My thinking is you need 
      something for the glass to bight to. I might be of the track here I hope you 
      get what I mean
      
      regards chris 388
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
      Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 3:20 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Foam core
      
      
      > 
      >
      > I screwed up about 20 % of the foam core to the oil door.  It broke off 
      > when I unwrapped it and then lost the piece.  Anything special about that 
      > foam?  Anything readily available to use?
      > Thanks in advance.
      > Dr Fred.
      > 40515
      > cowling actually fit tonight with skybolt /camlocks.
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Foam core
Date: 
Feb 01, 2008
From: 
"John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
      
      
      Fred, measure the thickness and I will check our composite shop for some
      scrap I can send.  Most of it is 0.25, 0.375, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00".
      
      I am thinking it is 0.125 or thinner.  I can contact M&T on Monday for
      you.
      
      John
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
      Susie McGough
      Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:32 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Foam core
      
      
      
      I believe that foam core is just a like a  flller  or should I say
      something 
      to make that door thicker so you do not have to fill with bog etc, so
      what 
      about balsa wood or somthing light like that?? My thinking is you need 
      something for the glass to bight to. I might be of the track here I hope
      you 
      get what I mean
      
      regards chris 388
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
      Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 3:20 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Foam core
      
      
      > 
      >
      > I screwed up about 20 % of the foam core to the oil door.  It broke
      off 
      > when I unwrapped it and then lost the piece.  Anything special about
      that 
      > foam?  Anything readily available to use?
      > Thanks in advance.
      > Dr Fred.
      > 40515
      > cowling actually fit tonight with skybolt /camlocks.
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Rudder Cable Links
From: 
"dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      Can anyone tell me if the 4130 steel strips used to fabricate the F10104 rudder
      cable links on page 38-10 are included in the kit? (QB)
      If so, which kit and are they in a bag, or just a strip of steel? I have gone through
      everything and, so far, have been unable to find them or any reference
      to them in the lists.
      
      --------
      David Maib
      RV-10 #40559
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162007#162007
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
From: 
Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: 
Re: Rudder Cable Links
      
      
      Hi David,
      
      Sounds like your still making good progress.
      
      You should find the blanks to make the F-10104 links
      in bag 1467-1.
      
      Very best wishes,
      
      Rodger
      
      
      --- "dmaib(at)mac.com"  wrote:
      
      > 
      > 
      > Can anyone tell me if the 4130 steel strips used to
      > fabricate the F10104 rudder cable links on page
      > 38-10 are included in the kit? (QB)
      > If so, which kit and are they in a bag, or just a
      > strip of steel? I have gone through everything and,
      > so far, have been unable to find them or any
      > reference to them in the lists.
      > 
      > --------
      > David Maib
      > RV-10 #40559
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      >
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162007#162007
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      > browse
      > Un/Subscription,
      > FAQ,
      > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >
      > Forums!
      >
      > Admin.
      >
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
            __________________________________________________________
      Sent from Yahoo! Mail - a smarter inbox http://uk.mail.yahoo.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: 
Like my panel?
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      http://www.gillesvidal.com/blogpano/cockpit1.htm
      
      Chris 388
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Any Hawaii Builders??
From: 
"johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      Pete,
      I live in Hawaii about half the year and will be there in March. However, my plane
      is in Georgia and it will stay there. If you come, you will only see an old
      man drinking too much beer wearing torn shorts and an ugly t-shirt.
      John
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162027#162027
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
From: 
"johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      Dave,
      I'm going to do the same thing you are, but I had pretty well settled for ACF-50
      and self spraying. Are you only wiping the Boeshield T-9 on areas that are accessible
      or is there a way to get it in hard to reach areas? Also, I thought
      Corrosion-X was a service only package - you have to go to one of their sites
      to get it done; or can you do it yourself?
      
      John
      
      [quote="daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com"]No primer, except on QB kits (Van's did it) or
      on bare steel parts.  I am using ACF-50, Boeshield or  Corrosion-X  leaning
      towards Boeshield.  Quick, clean, easy and  lite.    Wipe a thin coat on interior
      skin surfaces or any other  part not to be painted before or after assembly.
      Apply liberally after  paint.
      
       http://boeshield.com/index.html (http://boeshield.com/index.html)
      
       http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html (http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html)
      
       http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html (http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html)
      
       Dave Leikam
       40496
      
      
      >    ---
      
      
      --------
      #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      N711JG reserved
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162029#162029
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
From: 
"Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Foam core
      
      
      John and friends:
      
      Thanks.  I just wanted to make sure there was nothing special with the 
      core.  I figured it was just to make the part lighter.   Will Fill in 
      with balsa or other filler to make up the part I'm missing.  John, you 
      don't need to send anything.  Thanks for the reply.
      
      Fred.
      
      John W. Cox wrote:
      >
      > Fred, measure the thickness and I will check our composite shop for some
      > scrap I can send.  Most of it is 0.25, 0.375, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00".
      >
      > I am thinking it is 0.125 or thinner.  I can contact M&T on Monday for
      > you.
      >
      > John
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
      > Susie McGough
      > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:32 PM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Foam core
      >
      > 
      >
      > I believe that foam core is just a like a  flller  or should I say
      > something 
      > to make that door thicker so you do not have to fill with bog etc, so
      > what 
      > about balsa wood or somthing light like that?? My thinking is you need 
      > something for the glass to bight to. I might be of the track here I hope
      > you 
      > get what I mean
      >
      > regards chris 388
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
      > To: "RV 10" 
      > Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 3:20 PM
      > Subject: RV10-List: Foam core
      >
      >
      >   
      >> 
      >>
      >> I screwed up about 20 % of the foam core to the oil door.  It broke
      >>     
      > off 
      >   
      >> when I unwrapped it and then lost the piece.  Anything special about
      >>     
      > that 
      >   
      >> foam?  Anything readily available to use?
      >> Thanks in advance.
      >> Dr Fred.
      >> 40515
      >> cowling actually fit tonight with skybolt /camlocks.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>     
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Rudder Cable Links
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
      > Can anyone tell me if the 4130 steel strips used to fabricate the F10104 rudder
      cable links on page 38-10 are included in the kit? (QB)
      > If so, which kit and are they in a bag, or just a strip of steel? I have gone
      through everything and, so far, have been unable to find them or any reference
      to them in the lists.
      
      I found mine in bag 1395 in my slow build Fuselage Kit
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162104#162104
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: 
Re: Rudder Cable Links
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      Thanks Rodger and Gary,
      
      I found the blanks today.
      
      David Maib
      40559
      
      On Feb 2, 2008, at 3:54 AM, Rodger Todd wrote:
      
      
      Hi David,
      
      Sounds like your still making good progress.
      
      You should find the blanks to make the F-10104 links
      in bag 1467-1.
      
      Very best wishes,
      
      Rodger
      
      
      --- "dmaib(at)mac.com"  wrote:
      
      > 
      >
      > Can anyone tell me if the 4130 steel strips used to
      > fabricate the F10104 rudder cable links on page
      > 38-10 are included in the kit? (QB)
      > If so, which kit and are they in a bag, or just a
      > strip of steel? I have gone through everything and,
      > so far, have been unable to find them or any
      > reference to them in the lists.
      >
      > --------
      > David Maib
      > RV-10 #40559
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      >
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162007#162007
      >
      >
      > browse
      > Un/Subscription,
      > FAQ,
      > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      >
      > Forums!
      >
      > Admin.
      >
      >
      
      
             __________________________________________________________
      Sent from Yahoo! Mail - a smarter inbox http://uk.mail.yahoo.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
From: 
Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
RE: Alternator Circuit Breaker
      
      
      MIDI fuses available from Mouser.com
      
      576-04980900Z                  Fuse Holder
      576-0498080.M                  
      80A Fuse
      
      Data Sheet Here...
      
      http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/498.pdf
      
      
      Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: 
Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Date: 
Feb 02, 2008
      
      
      I purchased a can of Corrosion -x from Aircraft Spruce along with a can of 
      ACF-50 and Boeshield to try each one.  I like ACF-50, but Boeshield seems to 
      put a thicker coating on a part.  I like the way you can just spray a bit on 
      and then wipe it off gently and leave a nice coat.  I have used it on a few 
      parts and my bottom wing skins but alot else yet.  For hard to reach areas, 
      I would just spray the stuff on.  It should penetrate everywhere.  This is 
      the reason to apply it after painting.  I will spray it on all exposed and 
      interior surfaces after final painting.  It somewhat dries or becomes like a 
      very thin waxy coating.  Supposedly, if you scratch a coated part, the 
      products will re-fill in the blemish.  I like the concept better than 
      primer.  I may be wrong, but it is the way I am going.  ACF-50 is safe on 
      electronics.  At OSH the company had a small circuit with LEDs flashing on 
      it powered by a AA battery submerged in a jar of the stuff flashing away.
      
      *(The previous statement is not necessarily the opinion of other builders on 
      this list, their sponsors or affiliates and should not be taken as the 
      gospel truth.  Any unauthorized use of this opinion is perfectly OK with me. 
      Good luck!)
      
      Dave Leikam
      40496
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
      Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 8:11 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
      
      
      >
      > Dave,
      > I'm going to do the same thing you are, but I had pretty well settled for 
      > ACF-50 and self spraying. Are you only wiping the Boeshield T-9 on areas 
      > that are accessible or is there a way to get it in hard to reach areas? 
      > Also, I thought Corrosion-X was a service only package - you have to go to 
      > one of their sites to get it done; or can you do it yourself?
      >
      > John
      >
      > [quote="daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com"]No primer, except on QB kits (Van's did 
      > it) or  on bare steel parts.  I am using ACF-50, Boeshield or  Corrosion-X 
      > leaning towards Boeshield.  Quick, clean, easy and  lite.    Wipe a thin 
      > coat on interior skin surfaces or any other  part not to be painted before 
      > or after assembly.  Apply liberally after  paint.
      >
      > http://boeshield.com/index.html (http://boeshield.com/index.html)
      >
      > http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html 
      > (http://www.corrosionx.com/aviation.html)
      >
      > http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html 
      > (http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html)
      >
      > Dave Leikam
      > 40496
      >
      >
      >>    ---
      >
      >
      > --------
      > #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
      > N711JG reserved
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162029#162029
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
fuel tank flush
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the fuel
      system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else flush
      their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine? If so
      with what?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Any Hawaii Builders??
From: 
"marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      Pete,
      
      I was just out there and visited a guy on Oahu building a -7A and another who is
      flying a -6. Don't know of any -10s though. E-mail me at marc 'at' verticalpower.com
      if you want me to send you their info. They're always glad to talk with
      fellow RVers.
      
      --------
      Marc Ausman
      http://www.verticalpower.com
      RV-7 IO-390 Flying
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162170#162170
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Tow Bar
From: 
"Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      Here's  another gizmo I cooked up yesterday.  It works great so far -- no engine,
      wings, tail feathers, so it's not a legitimate test to pass yet.  But for $2
      worth of metal at the scrap yard it seems pretty substantial.
      
      I haven't seen anything like this, but it makes sense to me to make one ear static,
      the other slides in, add tension to spring the yoke with your thumb while
      sliding in the lynch pin (Home Depot).
      
      You probably wouldn't want to try to take it with you, but it should do the job
      in the hangar.  Today I'll add paint.
      
      By the way, any comments on why hydraulic fluid is better than brake fluid?  Surfing,
      it seems to be a flammable issue?
      
      Working on wheel pants today.
      
      Later, - Lew
      
      --------
      non-pilot
      crazy about building
      Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162176#162176
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow1_medium_207.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow2_medium_143.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
fuel tank flush
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      One way is to install a temporary clear auto type fuel filter in a line
      going from the firewall fuel fitting to gas cans, or via a temporary hose to
      the other gas tank.  If you are using an in line fuel filter, like the
      Airflow Performance one Van's sells, this should be removed and replaced
      with a straight piece of tubing so that you don't trap the trash in it.  You
      want all the trash to end up in temporary filter.
      
      
      Fill one tank, sump the tank until you get a clear sample, and then use the
      boost pump to pump the fuel into gas cans or the other tank via the auto
      filter.  This way you have clean gas to use over and over until you are
      satisfied the trash is gone.  If you see any particles while sumping the
      tanks you are not yet done.  You may want to agitate the gas in the tank by
      rocking the wing to help dislodge particles and get them to the bottom of
      the tank.
      
      
      This is also the time to do a first check to make sure you have minimum fuel
      flow rate (final check is after you reinstall the permanent inline filter)
      and calibrate the fuel senders if you are using an electronic engine
      indication system.
      
      
      Carl Froehlich
      
      RV-8A (400 hrs)
      
      RV-10 (wings)
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 7:41 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: fuel tank flush
      
      
      I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the fuel
      system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else flush
      their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine? If so
      with what?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker
From: 
"orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      jayb wrote:
      > MIDI fuses available from Mouser.com
      > 
      > 576-04980900Z                  Fuse Holder
      > 576-0498080.M                  
      > 80A Fuse
      > 
      
      Another good source.  I missed them since they are not in the current catalog.
      That is a place to get lost in for sure. [Shocked]
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Fuselage SB
      (N410GB reserved)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162188#162188
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Minimum Instruments ( was TruTrak ADI)
From: 
"AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      I voted to get an AFS3500 system but I am backing it up with:
      1. Vertical card compass mounted on cabin to support bracket
      2. B/U Steam air speed
      3. B/U Steam altimeter
      4. B/U Tru-Trak ADI
      I would have preferred the Mid-continent - but cannot justify the cost.
      
      Tru-Trak seems to have about 90% of the B/U market. It is almost rare to see a
      panel being built without it.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust
      Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162193#162193
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: 
Tow Bar
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      Absolutely brilliant in it's simplicity.  The bar most of us are using has
      tension closing the bar and it takes a bit of caution when closing in on the
      bolts not to accidentally hit the wheel pant and damage the paint.  Your
      idea takes the threat out completely.
      
      As you said maybe not so good to travel with as it looks a bit heavy with
      the materials you chose, but thanks for sharing the great idea.  
      
      Marcus
      40286
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:53 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Tow Bar
      
      
      Here's  another gizmo I cooked up yesterday.  It works great so far -- no
      engine, wings, tail feathers, so it's not a legitimate test to pass yet.
      But for $2 worth of metal at the scrap yard it seems pretty substantial.
      
      I haven't seen anything like this, but it makes sense to me to make one ear
      static, the other slides in, add tension to spring the yoke with your thumb
      while sliding in the lynch pin (Home Depot).
      
      You probably wouldn't want to try to take it with you, but it should do the
      job in the hangar.  Today I'll add paint.
      
      By the way, any comments on why hydraulic fluid is better than brake fluid?
      Surfing, it seems to be a flammable issue?
      
      Working on wheel pants today.
      
      Later, - Lew
      
      --------
      non-pilot
      crazy about building
      Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162176#162176
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow1_medium_207.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow2_medium_143.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Tow Bar
From: 
"Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      Thanks, Marcus!
      
      OK, just for the fun of it, I added a thumb rest.  The paint is just rattle can
      Rustoleum I was using up. 
      
      I don't know if it shows in the picture very well, but the inner shaft (1/2 ID,
      1/8 wall steel tube) was just a little too loose in the sleeve for my liking,
      so I flatted one side to make it more like a "D"(keeping the axel end round)
      , and welded a bit of a matching flat on the female sleeve.  That not only snugged
      it up, but keeps the hole oriented for easy alignment with the pin.
      
      Later, - Lew
      
      --------
      non-pilot
      crazy about building
      Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162213#162213
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow4_medium_628.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow3_medium_678.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: fuel tank flush
      
      Recommend you use a fluid less volatile than gasoline for the process...like
      water or stoddard solvent.
      
      On Feb 3, 2008 7:57 AM, Carl Froehlich  wrote:
      
      >  One way is to install a temporary clear auto type fuel filter in a line
      > going from the firewall fuel fitting to gas cans, or via a temporary hose to
      > the other gas tank.  If you are using an in line fuel filter, like the
      > Airflow Performance one Van's sells, this should be removed and replaced
      > with a straight piece of tubing so that you don't trap the trash in it.  You
      > want all the trash to end up in temporary filter.
      >
      >
      > Fill one tank, sump the tank until you get a clear sample, and then use
      > the boost pump to pump the fuel into gas cans or the other tank via the auto
      > filter.  This way you have clean gas to use over and over until you are
      > satisfied the trash is gone.  If you see any particles while sumping the
      > tanks you are not yet done.  You may want to agitate the gas in the tank by
      > rocking the wing to help dislodge particles and get them to the bottom of
      > the tank.
      >
      >
      > This is also the time to do a first check to make sure you have minimum
      > fuel flow rate (final check is after you reinstall the permanent inline
      > filter) and calibrate the fuel senders if you are using an electronic engine
      > indication system.
      >
      >
      > Carl Froehlich
      >
      > RV-8A (400 hrs)
      >
      > RV-10 (wings)
      >
      >
      >  ------------------------------
      >
      > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
      > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David McNeill
      > *Sent:* Sunday, February 03, 2008 7:41 AM
      > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Subject:* RV10-List: fuel tank flush
      >
      >
      > I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the
      > fuel system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else
      > flush their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine?
      > If so with what?
      >
      > * *
      >
      > * *
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > **
      >
      > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
      >
      > * *
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Trimming the cowling
      
      
      I cut the top cowl in today...Guys and Gals I gotta tell you the masking tape to
      mark the firewall cut is the BOMB!!!! Perfect fit with only a few passes with
      the sanding block needed. The only thing I did different was to use the tape
      as a guide to apply a fine pen line that I cut just shy of then hand sanded to
      that line. I was worried the tape would gum up the cut off wheel. Dremel has
      a new line of cut off wheels added to their line of products made just for plastic,
      only metal was previously available. I use two wheels so far and that inclusdes
      the slot in the bottom cowl, my slot is much long due to the three blade
      prop...highly recommended these nifty cut off wheels.
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
      Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:42:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling
      
      
      Rick,
      
      Like Michael I found it necessary to trim the inner and outer walls of the air
      inlet to get the upper an lower portions to come together. I also trimmed about
      2" along the side of the upper cowl. Once you have the upper and lower cowl
      in position(let the sides of the lower cowl overlap the outside of the upper cowl)
      you can decide where you want the side seams to be. Lay out your chosen line
      on the upper cowl, cut and sand to a straight edge. Then you can use the masking
      tape trick to transfer that line to the lower cowl. I failed to mention
      in an earlier post that I also used the masking tape routine to fit my doors
      to the cabin top. It is much easier than trimming a little at a time until it
      comes together.
      
      Don't worry if you take off a little too much at some point. It is easy to build
      up an edge with a little flox if needed. Also I have seen several 10's where
      the rivets that hold the piano hinge to the cowling(and/or the paint) have started
      to crack out. I dealt with that by putting a 2 bid tape over the rivet lines.
      
      Jim Berry
      40482
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161697#161697
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
"McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
      
      
      Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540
      supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on
      the mags is a PITA.  
      
      TIA
      Ron 
      187
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
Subject: 
Old HID, New HID
From: 
tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      
      
      Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.  
      www.dirtlights.com .
      
      
      Tom
      970-420-1798
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      Tom;
      Which one?
      When you have a chance, please post pictures of the light(s) in the cowling.
      Thanks!
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com>
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 5:12 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      >
      > Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.
      > www.dirtlights.com .
      >
      >
      > Tom
      > 970-420-1798
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
From: 
tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      
      
      Pascal,
      
      I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
      them to your email.
      
      Tom
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      received and appreciated!
      Thanks!
      Pascal
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com>
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:20 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      > 
      > Pascal,
      > 
      > I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
      > them to your email.
      > 
      > Tom
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
From: 
"John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
      
      Which model do you want information on?
      
      
      John Cox
      
      600
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:10 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
      Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540
      supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on
      the mags is a PITA.  
      
      TIA 
      Ron 
      187 
      
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Trimming the cowling
From: 
"Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2008
      
      
      Rick,
      
      how long is the cut for the slot that you did. I also have a three blade prop and
      I know I need to cut the slot longer. It works right now because the front
      gear wheel sits on a box.
      
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162282#162282
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
darnpilot(at)aol.com
      
      
      Tom:
      
      
      Please send photos of lights to me too.? Thanks.
      
      
      Jeff
      
      Darnpilot(at)aol.com
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      Sent: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:20 pm
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      Pascal,
      
      I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
      them to your email.
      
      Tom
      
      
      ________________________________________________________________________
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Old HID, New HID
      
      
      HI Tom
      
      Would you send the photos to me as well?
      
      Many thanks
      
      Les Kearney
      #40643
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      Sent: February-03-08 6:12 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.  
      www.dirtlights.com .
      
      
      Tom
      970-420-1798
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Trimming the cowling
      
      
      I'll measure it tonight, funny I eyeballed the cut after looking at Wayne's RV-10
      at Nellis. I should have been gambling yesterday because I hit it right on
      the money. It is about 4 inches from the front of the air intake.I'll make some
      .032 panels with nutplates on the cowl to tie it all together and return the
      cowl to proper strength on the bottom
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
      Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2008 11:19:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling
      
      
      Rick,
      
      how long is the cut for the slot that you did. I also have a three blade prop and
      I know I need to cut the slot longer. It works right now because the front
      gear wheel sits on a box.
      
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162282#162282
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Fw: HID Lights
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com>
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:22 PM
      Subject: HID Lights
      
      
      > Here they are.
      > 
      > Tom
      > 970-420-1798
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      I put the photos on my site.
      http://rv10builder.net/test.aspx
      Pascal
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com>
      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:20 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
      
      
      > 
      > Pascal,
      > 
      > I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
      > them to your email.
      > 
      > Tom
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
      
      Slick MagsHi Ron,=0A=0AI've been working this subject, also, and
       have gathered and crunched data from a number of sources to find what
       we need. The best data came from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. T
      he Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the SlickStart mostly a
      ddresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new i
      nstallation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is ho
      w to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure 
      that the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dea
      d center (TDC) and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out c
      an be accomplished either by the way the starting switch wiring is con
      nected or by the way the SkickStart is connected to accomplish the nee
      ded grounding.  =0A=0A =0A=0ALets set the stage: I am usin
      g the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical 
      and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Sl
      ick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. T
      he retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is o
      n either mag.=0A=0A =0A=0APer SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN i
      s the electrical supply into the unit and is connected to the output s
      ide of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whe
      never you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also feeding 
      the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
       on the left mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connec
      ted to the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the 
      left mag retard breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function 
      of Pin 3  is to tell Pin 1 to fire only when the retard breaker points
       are open which will be near top dead center. This provides the retard
      ed spark which is desired while the engine is cranking. So far, so goo
      d. =0A=0A =0A=0ANow is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Va
      n's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the co
      nfigurations in SL2-96 says=0A=0ASlickStart Pin 2 gets connected
       to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker
       says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right magneto so 
      that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC) spar
      k while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 impl
      ies there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal o
      f the keyed start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to
       be grounded only while the keyed start switch is in the "start" posit
      ion. This seems to be redundant with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seem
      s that doing both would not be harmful. I need some help here.=0A
      =0A =0A=0AWell, that is what I have so far. I kick this out t
      o the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, n
      o flames!=0A=0A=0A=0ARoger Standley=0A=0AN291RV (Res
      erved)=0A=0A  ----- Original Message ----- =0A  From: McGANN,
       Ron =0A  To: rv10-list@matronics
      com =0A  Sent: Sunday, February 03
      , 2008 3:09 PM=0A  Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A
      =0A=0A  Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags inclu
      ded with 540 supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the 
      lack of data on the mags is a PITA.  =0A=0A  TIA =0A  Ron 
      =0A  187 =0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contained in this 
      email and any attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Systems Austr
      alia. If you are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use, disclosure 
      or copying of this email or any=0Aattachments is expressly prohibit
      ed.  If you have received this email=0Ain error, please notify us i
      mmediately. VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure this email
       and its attachments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss or damage 
      incurred in using this email is not the=0Asender's responsibility. 
       It is your responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are completed b
      efore installing any data sent in this email to=0Ayour computer."
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======0A=0A
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Garmin 430W current draw?
From: 
"jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
      
      
      Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around the
      net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
      
      Thanks,
      Jay
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: Garmin 430W current draw?
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
      
      
      Jay:
      
      For 14volts, Main Connector = 2.5A, Comm Connector = 3.0A(Rec)/6.0A(Trans),
      Superflag(????) = 500mA max per output.
      
      Mark
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
      Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 10:13 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 430W current draw?
      
      
      >
      > Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around
      the net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Jay
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
      
      Ron-
        You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with both the
      Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason for the double
      grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the cost is zero to add protection
      for a broken wire.
         
        Bill 
        N939SB
      
      Roger Standley  wrote:
                  Hi Ron,
         
          Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
      a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
      on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
      SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
      fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
      how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
      and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
      by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
      is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  
         
        Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
      (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
      breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
      The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
      mag.
         
        Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
      connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
      pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
      feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
      on the left mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
      the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
      breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin
      1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
      dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
      is cranking. So far, so good. 
         
        Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
      a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
        SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
      magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
      magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
      spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
      there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
      start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
      while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
      with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
      I need some help here
         
        Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
      Please, no flames!
         
        Roger Standley
        N291RV (Reserved)
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: McGANN, Ron 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
      by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
      PITA.  
        TIA 
      Ron 
      187 
      
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached files is  confidential
      to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended  recipient,
      any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any  attachments is expressly
      prohibited.  If you have received this email  in error, please notify us immediately.
      VIRUS: Every care has been  taken to ensure this email and its attachments
      are virus free,  however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
      is not the  sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to  your
      computer."    
      
      http://ww============================================================================================f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=============================================    
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Garmin 430W current draw?
      
      You need the continuous draw figure, not the max draw, which is an
      intermittent load, only when you transmit.
      
      On Feb 4, 2008 11:13 AM, jayb  wrote:
      
      >
      > Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around
      > the net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Jay
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
      
      Additional info re SlickStart:
         
        I had noticed a lot of ringing on the Left magneto P-Lead and am blaming this
      on the SlickStart. My engine monitor picks up RPM from the P-Lead. When connected
      to the Left mag, once in a while I got strange RPM values. This was immediately
      fixed when I moved the pickup to the right mag.
         
        This is not a reason to be cautious of the SlickStart as I believe the SlickStart
      and breaker retard mag is a great combination at a good price.
         
        Bill
         
         
      
      
      Roger Standley  wrote:            Hi Ron,
         
          Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
      a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
      on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
      SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
      fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
      how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
      and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
      by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
      is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  
         
        Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
      (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
      breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
      The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
      mag.
         
        Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
      connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
      pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
      feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
      on the left mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
      the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
      breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin
      1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
      dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
      is cranking. So far, so good. 
         
        Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
      a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
        SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
      magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
      magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
      spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
      there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
      start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
      while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
      with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
      I need some help here
         
        Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
      Please, no flames!
         
        Roger Standley
        N291RV (Reserved)
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: McGANN, Ron 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
      by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
      PITA.  
        TIA 
      Ron 
      187 
      
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached files is  confidential
      to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended  recipient,
      any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any  attachments is expressly
      prohibited.  If you have received this email  in error, please notify us immediately.
      VIRUS: Every care has been  taken to ensure this email and its attachments
      are virus free,  however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
      is not the  sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to  your
      computer."    
      
      http://ww============================================================================================f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=============================================    
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
      
      Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
      
      I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuitry such that
      the start button will only energise the starter/Slick start when the
      Right Mag is grounded.  I also have a retard breaker on the left mag
      only.  No impulse couplers on either mag.  Funny, I thought an impulse
      coupler on the left mag was standard.
      
      Seems my install will be quite straightforward.
      
      thanks again
      Ron 
      187
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      	From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
      Standley
      	Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 3:43 AM
      	To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      	Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
      	Hi Ron,
      	 
      
      	I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and
      crunched data from a number of sources to find what we need. The best
      data came from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service
      Letter SL2-96 that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses
      replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new
      installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how
      to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead
      center (TDC) and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can
      be accomplished either by the way the starting switch wiring is
      connected or by the way the SkickStart is connected to accomplish the
      needed grounding.  
      
      	 
      
      	Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch,
      IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from
      Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left and a
      non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is
      labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.
      
      	 
      
      	Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the
      unit and is connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through
      a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to
      the starter you are also feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is
      connected to the grounding screw on the left mag (retard breaker
      magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the P-lead terminal of the
      left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard breaker terminal.
      According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin 1 to fire
      only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top dead
      center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the
      engine is cranking. So far, so good. 
      
      	 
      
      	Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring
      Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the configurations in
      SL2-96 says
      
      	SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag
      (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is
      to ground out the right magneto so that it can not fire an advanced
      (twenty some degrees before TDC) spark while the engine is cranking. The
      diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies there should be a jumper between
      the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed start switch. And that this
      jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only while the keyed start
      switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant with
      SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
      I need some help here
      
      	 
      
      	Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List
      for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, no flames!
      
      	 
      
      	Roger Standley
      
      	N291RV (Reserved)
      
      		----- Original Message ----- 
      		From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>  
      		To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
      		Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
      		Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
      		Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags
      included with 540 supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and
      the lack of data on the mags is a PITA.  
      
      		TIA 
      		Ron 
      		187 
      
      		"Warning:
      		The information contained in this email and any attached
      files is
      		confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not
      the intended
      		recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email
      or any
      		attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have
      received this email
      		in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every
      care has been
      		taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus
      free,
      		however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
      is not the
      		sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to
      ensure virus
      		checks are completed before installing any data sent in
      this email to
      		your computer."
      	
      
      http://ww======================
      ===============
      ====f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">h
      ttp://www.matronics.com/c================
      ===
      	
      	
      
      
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
      
      Hi John,
      
      LHS Model 6393 (with retard breaker)
      RHS Model 6350
      
      cheers
      Ron
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      	From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
      	Sent: Monday, 4 February 2008 4:08 PM
      	To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      	Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
      	Which model do you want information on?
      
      	 
      
      	John Cox
      
      	600
      
      	 
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      
      	From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
      	Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:10 PM
      	To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      	Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      	 
      
      	 
      
      	Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with
      540 supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of
      data on the mags is a PITA.  
      
      	TIA 
      	Ron 
      	187 
      
      	"Warning:
      	The information contained in this email and any attached files
      is
      	confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
      intended
      	recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      	attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this
      email
      	in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
      been
      	taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      	however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
      the
      	sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure
      virus
      	checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
      email to
      	your computer."
      	 
      	 
      	 
      
      
      	http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      
      
      	http://forums.matronics.com
      
      
      	http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      	 
      
      
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
      
      Slick MagsYes, Ron, I expected an impulse coupler on the left mag, too
       When I discovered no impulse coupler, I ordered the SlickStart. I st
      ill don't know if having redundant right mag grounds is OK. I am leani
      ng toward just using the jumper on the ignition switch and leaving Sli
      ckStart Pin 2 disconnected. Maybe someone else will chime in here and 
      set us straight.=0A=0ARoger=0A  ----- Original Message ----- 
      =0A  From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> =0A  To
      : rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A  Sent
      : Monday, February 04, 2008 1:29 PM=0A  Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sli
      ck Mags=0A=0A=0A  Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
      =0A=0A  I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuit
      ry such that the start button will only energise the starter/Slick sta
      rt when the Right Mag is grounded.  I also have a retard breaker on th
      e left mag only.  No impulse couplers on either mag.  Funny, I thought
       an impulse coupler on the left mag was standard.=0A=0A  Seems m
      y install will be quite straightforward.=0A=0A  thanks again
      =0A  Ron =0A  187=0A=0A=0A=0A--------------------------
      --------------------------------------------------=0A    From: owne
      r-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
      ics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley=0A    Sent: Tuesday, 5 Februar
      y 2008 3:43 AM=0A    To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A    Subject: 
      Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A    Hi Ron,=0A=0A    
      I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched d
      ata from a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came 
      from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-9
      6 that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of exist
      ing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new installation. One of the conce
      rns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how to ground out the right mag
       out while cranking the engine to ensure that the right mag does not f
      ire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC) and create a k
      ick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either by 
      the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the Skic
      kStart is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  =0A=0A 
          =0A=0A    Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start swi
      tch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all fro
      m Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left a
      nd a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is
       labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.=0A
      =0A     =0A=0A    Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the elect
      rical supply into the unit and is connected to the output side of the 
      starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you a
      re feeding electricity to the starter you are also feeding the SlickSt
      art. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw on the lef
      t mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the 
      P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag re
      tard breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  i
      s to tell Pin 1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open w
      hich will be near top dead center. This provides the retarded spark wh
      ich is desired while the engine is cranking. So far, so good. =0A
      =0A     =0A=0A    Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van
      's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the con
      figurations in SL2-96 says=0A=0A    SlickStart Pin 2 gets connec
      ted to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Ba
      ker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right magneto 
      so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC) s
      park while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 i
      mplies there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND termina
      l of the keyed start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag
       to be grounded only while the keyed start switch is in the "start" po
      sition This seems to be redundant with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also se
      ems that doing both would not be harmful. I need some help here=0A
      =0A     =0A=0A    Well, that is what I have so far. I kick th
      is out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. P
      lease, no flames!=0A=0A=0A=0A    Roger Standley=0A
      =0A    N291RV (Reserved)=0A=0A      ----- Original Message -----
       =0A      From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> 
      =0A      To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
      =0A      Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM=0A      Subject
      : RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A      Anybody hav
      e any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied by 
      Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags 
      is a PITA.  =0A=0A      TIA =0A      Ron =0A      187 
      =0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contained in this email and an
      y attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you
       are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use, disclosure or copying o
      f this email or any=0Aattachments is expressly prohibited.  If you 
      have received this email=0Ain error, please notify us immediately. 
      VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure this email and its att
      achments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss or damage incurred in 
      using this email is not the=0Asender's responsibility.  It is your 
      responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are completed before instal
      ling any data sent in this email to=0Ayour computer."=0A=0Aht
      tp://ww=================f="http://
      www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
      =================0A=0A=0A
      =0Ap://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Aics.com=0A.matron
      ics.com/contribution=0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contain
      ed in this email and any attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Sy
      stems Australia. If you are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use, 
      disclosure or copying of this email or any=0Aattachments is express
      ly prohibited.  If you have received this email=0Ain error, please 
      notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure
       this email and its attachments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss
       or damage incurred in using this email is not the=0Asender's respo
      nsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are 
      completed before installing any data sent in this email to=0Ayour c
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      =======================
      ======================0A_
      =======================
      =======================
      ==========0A=0A
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
      
      I have the same setup in N939SB and ran the grounding wire from the SlickStart
      to the right Mag P-lead and also grounded the right Mag P-lead during start switch
      activation. Since a backfire could be very expensive and the cost of running
      both wires is zero, I believed this was cheap insurance against a broken wire.
      No issues at 160 hours.
         
        Bill
         
      
      
      Roger Standley  wrote:
                  Yes, Ron, I expected an impulse coupler on the left mag, too. When
      I discovered no impulse coupler, I ordered the SlickStart. I still don't know
      if having redundant right mag grounds is OK. I am leaning toward just using the
      jumper on the ignition switch and leaving SlickStart Pin 2 disconnected. Maybe
      someone else will chime in here and set us straight.
         
        Roger
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: McGANN, Ron 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:29 PM
        Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
         
        I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuitry such that the start
      button will only energise the starter/Slick start when the Right Mag is grounded.
      I also have a retard breaker on the left mag only.  No impulse couplers
      on either mag.  Funny, I thought an impulse coupler on the left mag was standard.
         
        Seems my install will be quite straightforward.
         
        thanks again
        Ron 
        187
      
            
      ---------------------------------
        From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
      Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 3:43 AM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
          Hi Ron,
         
          I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
      a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
      on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
      SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
      fresh new installation One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
      how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
      and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
      by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
      is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  
         
        Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
      (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard
      breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
      The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on
      either mag.
         
        Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
      connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
      pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
      feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
      on the left mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
      the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
      breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin
      1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
      dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
      is cranking. So far, so good. 
         
        Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
      a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
        SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
      magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
      magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
      spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies
      there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
      start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
      while the keyed start switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant
      with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
      I need some help here
         
        Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
      Please, no flames!
         
        Roger Standley
        N291RV (Reserved)
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: McGANN, Ron 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
      by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
      PITA.  
        TIA 
      Ron 
      187 
      
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached files is  confidential
      to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended  recipient,
      any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any  attachments is expressly
      prohibited.  If you have received this email  in error, please notify us immediately.
      VIRUS: Every care has been  taken to ensure this email and its attachments
      are virus free,  however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
      is not the  sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to  your
      computer."    
      
      http://ww=================f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====================    
      
      
          p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List  ics.com  .matronics.com/contribution    
      
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached files is  confidential
      to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended  recipient,
      any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any  attachments is expressly
      prohibited.  If you have received this email  in error, please notify us immediately.
      VIRUS: Every care has been  taken to ensure this email and its attachments
      are virus free,  however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
      is not the  sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to  your
      computer."    
      
      http============================================================================================href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.co==============================================    
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"mckervey" <mckervey(at)edge.net>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
      
      Bill,
      
      The new Slick-Start doesn't have a pin 2.
      
      Joe 
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Bill DeRouchey 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 PM
        Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Ron-
        You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with 
      both the Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason 
      for the double grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the 
      cost is zero to add protection for a broken wire.
      
        Bill 
        N939SB
      
        Roger Standley  wrote:
          Hi Ron,
      
          I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched 
      data from a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came 
      from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 
      that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing 
      ignition vibrators, not a fresh new installation. One of the concerns 
      not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how to ground out the right mag out 
      while cranking the engine to ensure that the right mag does not fire at 
      twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC) and create a kick back. 
      Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either by the way the 
      starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart is 
      connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  
           
          Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, 
      SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540 
      came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard 
      breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is labeled on the 
      left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.
           
          Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the 
      unit and is connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through 
      a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to 
      the starter you are also feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is 
      connected to the grounding screw on the left mag (retard breaker 
      magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the P-lead terminal of the 
      left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard breaker terminal. 
      According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin 1 to fire 
      only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top dead 
      center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the 
      engine is cranking. So far, so good. 
           
          Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring Harness 
      Manual become a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
          SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag 
      (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is 
      to ground out the right magneto so that it can not fire an advanced 
      (twenty some degrees before TDC) spark while the engine is cranking. The 
      diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies there should be a jumper between 
      the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed start switch. And that this 
      jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only while the keyed start 
      switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant with 
      SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful. 
      I need some help here
           
          Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for 
      helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, no flames!
      
          Roger Standley
          N291RV (Reserved)
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: McGANN, Ron 
            To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
            Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
            Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
            Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 
      540 supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of 
      data on the mags is a PITA.  
            TIA 
            Ron 
            187 
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached 
      files is  confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the 
      intended  recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any 
       attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email  
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2008
From: 
Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
      
      Joe-
        I can't think of a design reason to drop pin 2 functionality except to limit
      their liability in lawsuits. I suppose that every kick-back lawsuit will automatically
      name Unison as a defendant and they can create uncertainity by blaming
      the right mag.
         
        I looked for information on the new version with no joy.
         
        Does anyone have a description of the changes between new/old?
        Is the new version now being shipped?
        Can anyone send a new wiring diagram?
         
        Thanks,
        Bill
      
      mckervey  wrote:
            Bill,
         
        The new Slick-Start doesn't have a pin 2.
         
        Joe 
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Bill DeRouchey 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 PM
        Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Ron-
        You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with both the
      Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason for the double
      grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the cost is zero to add protection
      for a broken wire.
         
        Bill 
        N939SB
      
      Roger Standley  wrote:
                  Hi Ron,
         
          Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
      a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
      on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
      SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
      fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
      how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
      and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
      by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
      is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.  
         
        Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
      (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
      breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
      The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
      mag.
         
        Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
      connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
      pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
      feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
      on the left mag (retard breaker magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
      the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
      breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin
      1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
      dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
      is cranking. So far, so good. 
         
        Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
      a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
        SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
      magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
      magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
      spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
      there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
      start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
      while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
      with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
      I need some help here
         
        Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
      Please, no flames!
         
        Roger Standley
        N291RV (Reserved)
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: McGANN, Ron 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
      by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
      PITA.  
        TIA 
      Ron 
      187 
      
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached files is  confidential
      to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended  recipient,
      any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any  attachments is expressly
      prohibited.  If you have received this email  in error, please notify us immediately.
      VIRUS: Every care has been   
          href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List  href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com  href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c  
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Old HID, New HID
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
      
      Tom:
      
      
      Why don't you send your pictures to dirtlights.com and have them post
      them on the web page somewhere?  Then all could easily see.
      
      
      TDT
      
      
      Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      40025
      
      
      tdt(at)aurora.aero 
      
      617-500-4812 (office)
      
      617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Start
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
      
      There used to be two models of SlickStart, one for Slick magnetos and
      one for Bendix magnetos.  Part of the model change last fall was that
      Slick dropped the second model, so for the future, you can only buy
      SlickStart for use with Slick magnetos.  
      
      
      Are all Slick mags impulse coupled (not retard)?  Perhaps the missing P2
      connection is no longer needed if only supporting Slick impulse-coupled
      mags.
      
      
      I have Bendix retard mags, and so I either needed the discountinued
      SlickStart model or an old-school mechanical "vibrator".  Luckily, I
      managed to find what I think was the last SS1002 SlickStart module in
      Germany and snagged it.
      
      
      TDT
      
      
      Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      40025
      
      tdt(at)aurora.aero 
      
      617-500-4812 (office)
      
      617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Fairings-Etc 
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
      
      Anyone using gear leg intersection fairings from Fairings Etc and have
      any "first-hand" pointers to share?
      
      
      TDT
      
      
      Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      40025
      
      tdt(at)aurora.aero 
      
      617-500-4812 (office)
      
      617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Old HID, New HID
From: 
tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
      
      
      TDT,
      
      I did.  You'd think they'd be happy a group of "non-fourwheelers" were
      interested.
      
      Tom
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
WSI Weather
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
      
      Kudo's to the folks at WSI.  I have had nothing but exceptional friendliness
      and service while buying and installing and debugging the system.  It is in
      and working and talking with the OP system.
      
      These folks could teach the rest of the aviation folks how it should be
      done.
      
      Gary
      40274
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"mckervey" <mckervey(at)edge.net>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Mags
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Bill DeRouchey 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 11:20 PM
        Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
        Joe-
        I can't think of a design reason to drop pin 2 functionality except to 
      limit their liability in lawsuits. I suppose that every kick-back 
      lawsuit will automatically name Unison as a defendant and they can 
      create uncertainity by blaming the right mag.
      
        I looked for information on the new version with no joy.
      
        Does anyone have a description of the changes between new/old?
        Is the new version now being shipped?
        Can anyone send a new wiring diagram?
      
        Thanks,
        Bill
      
        mckervey  wrote:
          Bill,
      
          The new Slick-Start doesn't have a pin 2.
      
          Joe 
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: Bill DeRouchey 
            To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
            Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 PM
            Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
            Ron-
            You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using 
      with both the Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only 
      reason for the double grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and 
      the cost is zero to add protection for a broken wire.
      
            Bill 
            N939SB
      
            Roger Standley  wrote:
              Hi Ron,
      
              I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and 
      crunched data from a number of sources to find what we need. The best 
      data came from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service 
      Letter SL2-96 that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses 
      replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new 
      installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how 
      to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that 
      the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead 
      center (TDC) and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can 
      be accomplished either by the way the starting switch wiring is 
      connected or by the way the SkickStart is connected to accomplish the 
      needed grounding.  
               
              Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, 
      IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from 
      Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left and a 
      non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is 
      labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.
               
              Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the 
      unit and is connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through 
      a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to 
      the starter you are also feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is 
      connected to the grounding screw on the left mag (retard breaker 
      magneto).  SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the P-lead terminal of the 
      left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard breaker terminal. 
      According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3  is to tell Pin 1 to fire 
      only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top dead 
      center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the 
      engine is cranking. So far, so good. 
               
              Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring 
      Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the configurations in 
      SL2-96 says
              SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag 
      (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is 
      to ground out the right magneto so that it can not fire an advanced 
      (twenty some degrees before TDC) spark while the engine is cranking. The 
      diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies there should be a jumper between 
      the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed start switch. And that this 
      jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only while the keyed start 
      switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant with 
      SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful. 
      I need some help here
               
              Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List 
      for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, no flames!
      
              Roger Standley
              N291RV (Reserved)
                ----- Original Message ----- 
                From: McGANN, Ron 
                To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
                Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
                Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
      
      
                Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included 
      with 540 supplied by Vans?  I am installing a Slick Start and the lack 
      of data on the mags is a PITA.  
                TIA 
                Ron 
                187 
      "Warning:  The information contained in this email and any attached 
      files is  confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the 
      intended  recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any 
       attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email  
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
fuel tank flush
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
      
      I flushed them with water. I also cut an access ports on the rear of the ta
      nks to install the sender units.
      
      I went out and purchased a brand new shop vacuum and blew air into the tank
      s for a few hours to ensure no water remained. Of course all the opeings we
      re open when i did this to ensure the air being blown in had someplace to e
      xit.
      
      John G.
      
      
      From: dlm46007(at)cox.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: fuel t
      ank flushDate: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 05:41:25 -0700
      
      I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the fue
      l system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else flush
       their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine? If so
       with what?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Slick Start
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
"McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
      
      Hey Tim,
      
      I ordered my IO-540 D4A5 (Exp) Lyco from Vans and it was supplied with a
      retard breaker on the left mag - same as a few others.  My guess is that
      unless otherwise specified, the retard breaker is 'standard' on Slick
      Mags on Vans supplied engines.
      
      Does anyone know of literature that discusses the pros & cons of retard
      vs impulse mags?
      
      A side note - I posted a question a few weeks back about the need for a
      switch to select which mag to source the GRT EIS Tacho input.  The Slick
      Start instruction manual says to not have the electronic tachometer on
      the same magneto as the slick start.  To prevent the EIS being
      accidently sourced by the left mag during start, I decided to source the
      tacho from the right mag only and use the mark-one eardrum technique to
      confirm correct rev drop during mag checks on run-up.
      
      
      cheers,
      Ron 
      -187
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      	From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
      	Sent: Wednesday, 6 February 2008 12:43 AM
      	To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      	Subject: RV10-List: Slick Start
      
      
      	There used to be two models of SlickStart, one for Slick
      magnetos and one for Bendix magnetos.  Part of the model change last
      fall was that Slick dropped the second model, so for the future, you can
      only buy SlickStart for use with Slick magnetos.  
      
      	 
      
      	Are all Slick mags impulse coupled (not retard)?  Perhaps the
      missing P2 connection is no longer needed if only supporting Slick
      impulse-coupled mags.
      
      	 
      
      	I have Bendix retard mags, and so I either needed the
      discountinued SlickStart model or an old-school mechanical "vibrator".
      Luckily, I managed to find what I think was the last SS1002 SlickStart
      module in Germany and snagged it.
      
      	 
      
      	TDT
      
      	 
      
      	Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      	40025
      
      	tdt(at)aurora.aero 
      
      	617-500-4812 (office)
      
      	617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      	 
      
      
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
Subject: 
WSI Weather
From: 
"William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
      
      
      I hope WSI has changed their tune but I still can't get over the fact that they
      and their "in pocket" Senator Rick Santorum (R-PA) tried to do away with free
      weather over the Internet in order to protect WSI's profits.
      
      http://www.dailykos.com/story/2005/4/22/112939/284
      http://www.panbo.com/archives/cat_weather.html
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
      who matter don't mind."
      -- Dr. Suess 
      
      > -- RV10-List message posted by: "gary" 
      
       Kudo's to the folks at WSI.  I have had nothing but exceptional friendliness
       and service while buying and installing and debugging the system.  It is in
       and working and talking with the OP system.
      
       These folks could teach the rest of the aviation folks how it should be
       done.
      
       Gary
       40274
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: 
"Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
      
      Hi guys,
      
      did anyone fit the AA overhead panel ofter the cabin top was on?
      If yes please lat me know hoe much effort it was and what are the possible pitfalls.
      
      Thanks
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162562#162562
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Duckworks with tip tanks
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
"Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: WSI Weather
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
       "I wonder who it will be who eventually owns "everything".
      
      
      I don't know, but I guess he wins.
      
      John
      #40262
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Duckworks with tip tanks
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
"McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
      
      
      Patrick is having problems with his IS mafia - their filtering process
      is a little 'aggressive' shall we say.  He asked me to post this:
      
      Hi there Jesse,
      
      I'm in the process of installing HID lights into my outboard leading
      edges and I'm also plumbing aluminium fuel line through the leading edge
      ribs to enable connection of the tip tank in each wing to the outboard
      side of the main fuel tank.
      
      My wing tips will be converted into fuel proofed integral tip tanks
      (giving approximately 28 litres/7.5 USG either side), by Flymore
      (http://www.flymore.com.au/), a local RV and experimental aircraft
      construction and modification company operated by Jon Johanson
      (http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/jj-persn.htm).  They have
      significant experience in modifying RV's and extending their range,
      which was necessitated when Jon  decided do his record breaking around
      the world and Antarctic flights, requiring conversion of his RV-4 into a
      wholly 'wet wing'.
      
      I will be installing a fuel isolation valve (12V solenoid valve designed
      for fuel applications) adjacent to the connection point to the wing tip
      tank and have installed an access panel (Vans access panels) on the
      under side of the outboard leading edge to enable access to the solenoid
      valve and connections and another access panel inboard to enable access
      to the connection point to the outboard side of the main tank. 
      
      Conversion of the Van's tips into fuel tanks includes a tunnel to enable
      the electrics for the lights in the tip to be run separately from any
      fuel and away from any HID lights in the leading edge.  To date this
      conversion has been highly successful and has been applied to RV's
      ranging from the 4 to the 10 with no reported fuel leaks or operational
      faults.
      
      If anyone would like some photos of a friends RV-7 which features this
      modification please drop me a line (patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au) and
      I'll send them to you separately off-line.  I have discussed the tip
      tank modification (inclusive of strengthening the attach points) with
      some local aeronautical engineers and they have given it the tick of
      approval.  Obviously all up weight must be kept in check and fuel from
      the tips should be used first on longer flights.
      
      I hope this helps you out.
      
      Regards
      
      Patrick Pulis
      #40299    VH-XPP
      Adelaide, South Australia   
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
      Sent: Wednesday, 6 February 2008 9:15 AM
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks with tip tanks
      
      
      "Warning:
      The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      attachments is expressly prohibited.  If you have received this email
      in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      sender's responsibility.  It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      your computer."
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Start
      
      
      Slick makes both retard breaker and impulse coupled mags, as well as
      straight mags with no starting mechanism(for #2 mag).
      I still don't figure why they stopped making the Bendix version, as
      manufacturing cost has to be low, there are thousands of Bendix retard
      breaker mags in use (aka famous Shower of Sparks system), and most
      A&Ps won't switch to Slicks unless customer demands it, or are forced
      into them with a reman engine.
      
      On Feb 5, 2008 7:13 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
       wrote:
      >
      >
      > There used to be two models of SlickStart, one for Slick magnetos and one
      > for Bendix magnetos.  Part of the model change last fall was that Slick
      > dropped the second model, so for the future, you can only buy SlickStart for
      > use with Slick magnetos.
      >
      >
      > Are all Slick mags impulse coupled (not retard)?  Perhaps the missing P2
      > connection is no longer needed if only supporting Slick impulse-coupled
      > mags.
      >
      >
      > I have Bendix retard mags, and so I either needed the discountinued
      > SlickStart model or an old-school mechanical "vibrator".  Luckily, I managed
      > to find what I think was the last SS1002 SlickStart module in Germany and
      > snagged it.
      >
      >
      > TDT
      >
      >
      > Tim Dawson-Townsend
      >
      > 40025
      >
      > tdt(at)aurora.aero
      >
      > 617-500-4812 (office)
      >
      > 617-905-4800 (mobile)
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Slick Start
      
      
      Retard breaker mags are very reliable with a proper starting vibrator,
      and many Lyc engines were equipped that way as installed by Piper and
      Mooney. You would have to research how the Comanche 260 was equipped,
      as that is what the Vans spec engine was built for.
      
      On Feb 5, 2008 2:31 PM, McGANN, Ron  wrote:
      >
      >
      > Hey Tim,
      >
      > I ordered my IO-540 D4A5 (Exp) Lyco from Vans and it was supplied with a
      > retard breaker on the left mag - same as a few others.  My guess is that
      > unless otherwise specified, the retard breaker is 'standard' on Slick Mags
      > on Vans supplied engines.
      >
      > Does anyone know of literature that discusses the pros & cons of retard vs
      > impulse mags?
      >
      > A side note - I posted a question a few weeks back about the need for a
      > switch to select which mag to source the GRT EIS Tacho input.  The Slick
      > Start instruction manual says to not have the electronic tachometer on the
      > same magneto as the slick start.  To prevent the EIS being accidently
      > sourced by the left mag during start, I decided to source the tacho from the
      > right mag only and use the mark-one eardrum technique to confirm correct rev
      > drop during mag checks on run-up.
      >
      >
      > cheers,
      > Ron
      > -187
      >
      >
      >  ________________________________
      >  From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      > Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
      > Sent: Wednesday, 6 February 2008 12:43 AM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV10-List: Slick Start
      >
      >
      > There used to be two models of SlickStart, one for Slick magnetos and one
      > for Bendix magnetos.  Part of the model change last fall was that Slick
      > dropped the second model, so for the future, you can only buy SlickStart for
      > use with Slick magnetos.
      >
      >
      > Are all Slick mags impulse coupled (not retard)?  Perhaps the missing P2
      > connection is no longer needed if only supporting Slick impulse-coupled
      > mags.
      >
      >
      > I have Bendix retard mags, and so I either needed the discountinued
      > SlickStart model or an old-school mechanical "vibrator".  Luckily, I managed
      > to find what I think was the last SS1002 SlickStart module in Germany and
      > snagged it.
      >
      >
      > TDT
      >
      >
      > Tim Dawson-Townsend
      >
      > 40025
      >
      > tdt(at)aurora.aero
      >
      > 617-500-4812 (office)
      >
      > 617-905-4800 (mobile)
      >
      >
      > p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      > ics.com
      > .matronics.com/contribution
      >
      >
      > "Warning:
      > The information contained in this email and any attached files is
      > confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
      > recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
      > attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
      > in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
      > taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
      > however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
      > sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
      > checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
      > your computer."
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
AA Overhead console retrofitting
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
From: 
"Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
      
      
      I did, not a big deal.  Would have been easier with the top off and
      upside down though.  Biggest difference is how you apply pressure to the
      OH console while the epoxy cures.  If the top isn't installed yet you
      can just weight it down.  Otherwise you wind up cutting 1x2s or similar
      to fit between the floor/seat pans and the edges of the OH console.  You
      could probably also drill a series of holes and use clecos.
      
      Bob #40105
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
      Wellenzohn
      Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 5:10 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: AA Overhead console retrofitting
      
      
      
      Hi guys,
      
      did anyone fit the AA overhead panel ofter the cabin top was on?
      If yes please lat me know hoe much effort it was and what are the
      possible pitfalls.
      
      Thanks
      Michael
      
      --------
      RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
      #511
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162562#162562
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: 
"AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2008
      
      
      I am not putting in an overhead console, but I did install the two rear windows
      and the ceiling upholstery before permanently installing the cabin top. If the
      cabin top is not installed yet do it now.
      
      I cannot imagine the extra effort and contortions doing it upside down.
      It was soooooo much easier to fit the windows off the fuse.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust
      Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162632#162632
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
overhead console
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy 
      Avionics overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of 
      plastic, but I would like a basic console similar to the forward half of 
      the AA console. I like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place 
      to mount antennas, and hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. 
      I don't need the air vents, or anything aft of the front seats. I could 
      of course built one myself, but being lazy, and adverse to any more 
      fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query the list for 
      possible sources or at least ideas?
      In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to 
      ask people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      
      Chris Hukill
      stirring the pot
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
      
      
      Mike,
      
      Any issues with the windows flexing or stressing from the top flexing when installing
      the top after putting them in while the top is off?
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
      Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2008 9:15:41 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
      
      
      I am not putting in an overhead console, but I did install the two rear windows
      and the ceiling upholstery before permanently installing the cabin top. If the
      cabin top is not installed yet do it now.
      
      I cannot imagine the extra effort and contortions doing it upside down.
      It was soooooo much easier to fit the windows off the fuse.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust
      Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162632#162632
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      
      Chris, several people have adapted the Ohead from a GMC S10 (I believe) 
      here's a pic of Debbie & Jim's plane from OSH '06 . Folks were finding 
      them on Ebay for around $30-$35.
      
      Deems Davis # 406
      'Its all done....Its just not put together'
      http://deemsrv10.com/
      
      Chris Hukill wrote:
      > Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy 
      > Avionics overhead console.
      > *
      >
      > *
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      
      Actually Chris I think the major cost on the overhead is the 4 aluminum vents at
      $100 bucks each that come with it. I really like mine but I think it was cheaper
      than $1300....I can only look at my costs every once in awhile....the recovery
      period is too stress full :) 
      
      Rick S. 
      
      40185 
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Chris Hukill " < cjhukill @cox.net> 
      Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 6:31:04 AM ( GMT-0800 ) America/ Los_Angeles
      
      Subject: RV10-List : overhead console 
      
      
      Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics overhead
      console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I would like
      a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console. I like the idea
      of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas, and hide wires,
      and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air vents, or anything
      aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself, but being lazy, and
      adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query
      the list for possible sources or at least ideas? 
      In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to ask people
      what kind of primer should I use on it? 
      
      Chris Hukill 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
overhead console
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      Flightline AC has an overhead that they sell separately from their ac unit.
      
      
      www.flightlineac.com
      
      
      John N. Strain II
      
      Flightline AC, Inc
      
      P.O. Box 5309
      
      Bend, Or 97708
      
      541-815-8935 Cell
      
      541-330-5466 Office
      
      541-312-4257 Fax
      
      john(at)flightlineac.com
      
      www.flightlineac.com
      
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
      Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
      
      
      Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics
      overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I
      would like a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console. I
      like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas, and
      hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air vents,
      or anything aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself, but
      being lazy, and adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I
      thought I would query the list for possible sources or at least ideas?
      
      In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to ask
      people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      
      
      Chris Hukill
      
      stirring the pot
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
"Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      check Deems site for photos- but a salvaged  S-10 Blazer console has 
      been used before. A search of eBay motors for "overhead console blazer" 
      will show many for sale averaging $50
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Chris Hukill 
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
        Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
      
      
        Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy 
      Avionics overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of 
      plastic, but I would like a basic console similar to the forward half of 
      the AA console. I like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place 
      to mount antennas, and hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. 
      I don't need the air vents, or anything aft of the front seats. I could 
      of course built one myself, but being lazy, and adverse to any more 
      fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query the list for 
      possible sources or at least ideas?
        In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like 
      to ask people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      
        Chris Hukill
        stirring the pot
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      
      Opps here's the link : 
      http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202006/slides/DSC03080.html
      
      Deems
      
      Deems Davis wrote:
      >
      > Chris, several people have adapted the Ohead from a GMC S10 (I 
      > believe) here's a pic of Debbie & Jim's plane from OSH '06 . Folks 
      > were finding them on Ebay for around $30-$35.
      >
      > Deems Davis # 406
      > 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
      > http://deemsrv10.com/
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: 
overhead console
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      Hi Chris,
      
      We are producing a small fiberglass overhead console especially for the 10.
      We made the mold from the top of my plane after the strut was in place, so
      it fits very nicely around the top of the bar.
      
      I wanted something fairly compact to maintain as much headroom as possible.
      It weighs 2.4 ounces and is 1 1/2 inches deep.  I attached mine with
      flathead sheet metal screws directly into the ceiling.
      
      I have two of Stein's LEDs in mine.  I ran the wires up the strut.  There's
      plenty of room for another dome light and a couple switches, and it's deep
      enough to put a 90 degree coax connector inside if you want a GPS antenna on
      top.
      
      It also fits nicely on the baggage area ceiling, although I haven't worked
      out an attachment method.  The honeycomb core wouldn't take a screw too well
      so a little beefing up would be in order.
      
      I've been meaning to get these and a few other products on the web site but
      your post seemed like a good time to jump in.
      
      Here are a few pictures.  I have several in stock.  $150 each plus shipping.
      Any questions please call.
      
      Dave Saylor
      AirCrafters LLC
      140 Aviation Way
      Watsonville, CA 
      831-722-9141
      831-750-0284 CL
      www.AirCraftersLLC.com
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
      Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
      
      
      Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics
      overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I
      would like a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console. I
      like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas, and
      hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air vents,
      or anything aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself, but
      being lazy, and adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I
      thought I would query the list for possible sources or at least ideas?
      In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to ask
      people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      
      Chris Hukill
      stirring the pot
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      John,
      
      Please provide some highlights.  Other than a small picture, there really isn't
      any info on your web site.
      
      What's the price?
      What are the unique features?
      What options does it come with?
      
      thanks,
      
      bob
      
      > 
      > From: "John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
      > Date: 2008/02/06 Wed AM 10:17:55 EST
      > To: 
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: overhead console
      > 
      > Flightline AC has an overhead that they sell separately from their ac unit.
      > 
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > www.flightlineac.com
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > John N. Strain II
      > 
      > Flightline AC, Inc
      > 
      > P.O. Box 5309
      > 
      > Bend, Or 97708
      > 
      > 541-815-8935 Cell
      > 
      > 541-330-5466 Office
      > 
      > 541-312-4257 Fax
      > 
      > john(at)flightlineac.com
      > 
      > www.flightlineac.com
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics
      > overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I
      > would like a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console. I
      > like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas, and
      > hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air vents,
      > or anything aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself, but
      > being lazy, and adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I
      > thought I would query the list for possible sources or at least ideas?
      > 
      > In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to ask
      > people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Chris Hukill
      > 
      > stirring the pot
      > 
      >  
      >  
      >  
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      
      Dave,
      Have you considered making a longer version?
      http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071025/RV200710240607.html
      
      I would have easily bought yours if you had one that was similar
      in length to the one pictured above.  It wasn't hard to make,
      but it was still unnecessary fiberglass if I could have bought
      a completed product to cover everything. And, mine is much more
      than 2.4oz.
      
      I bet you could get rid of a few more of them if you had longer
      ones available too.
      
      Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
      
      
      Dave Saylor wrote:
      > Hi Chris,
      >  
      > We are producing a small fiberglass overhead console especially for the 
      > 10.  We made the mold from the top of my plane after the strut was in 
      > place, so it fits very nicely around the top of the bar.
      >  
      > I wanted something fairly compact to maintain as much headroom as 
      > possible.  It weighs 2.4 ounces and is 1 1/2 inches deep.  I attached 
      > mine with flathead sheet metal screws directly into the ceiling.
      >  
      > I have two of Stein's LEDs in mine.  I ran the wires up the strut.  
      > There's plenty of room for another dome light and a couple switches, and 
      > it's deep enough to put a 90 degree coax connector inside if you want a 
      > GPS antenna on top.
      >  
      > It also fits nicely on the baggage area ceiling, although I haven't 
      > worked out an attachment method.  The honeycomb core wouldn't take a 
      > screw too well so a little beefing up would be in order.
      >  
      > I've been meaning to get these and a few other products on the web site 
      > but your post seemed like a good time to jump in.
      >  
      > Here are a few pictures.  I have several in stock.  $150 each plus 
      > shipping.  Any questions please call.
      >  
      > Dave Saylor
      > AirCrafters LLC
      > 140 Aviation Way
      > Watsonville, CA
      > 831-722-9141
      > 831-750-0284 CL
      > www.AirCraftersLLC.com
      > 
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Hukill
      > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
      > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Subject:* RV10-List: overhead console
      > 
      > Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy 
      > Avionics overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of 
      > plastic, but I would like a basic console similar to the forward half of 
      > the AA console. I like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place 
      > to mount antennas, and hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. 
      > I don't need the air vents, or anything aft of the front seats. I could 
      > of course built one myself, but being lazy, and adverse to any more 
      > fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query the list for 
      > possible sources or at least ideas?
      > In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to 
      > ask people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      >  
      > Chris Hukill
      > stirring the pot
      > 
      > *
      > 
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      > *
      > 
      > 
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > 
      > 
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > 
      > 
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > 
      > 
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
overhead console
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      Bob,
      
      The overhead we offer sells for $595.00 individually or is included with
      either of our AC kits.
      
      Standard with the overhead are 6 black plastic double venturi style vents
      that close off very close to the overhead, unlike our upgraded vents that
      sell for $169.00 each and hang down about 3/4".  
      
      There are 2 access doors that allow access into the overhead for wiring,
      attaching, and whatever else you would have to be in there for.  It doesn't
      have an already existing area for a rear dvd, but a little glass work could
      be done to add something like that in.    
      
      We don't supply lights, but nearly all of our customers planned to add
      lights.
      
      
      Additional information that I would like to supply to the list is that we
      have an early prototype design with only one door in it.  Same overall
      construction and fit.  There are 3 of these left and we will sell them to
      anyone who wants for $395.00 each.  It is overall the same as the newer 2
      door models but without the rear access.  If you are interested give us a
      call.  We can ship any of our overheads out immediately.
      
      
      John N. Strain II
      Flightline AC, Inc
      P.O. Box 5309
      Bend, Or 97708
      541-815-8935 Cell
      541-330-5466 Office
      541-312-4257 Fax
      john(at)flightlineac.com
      www.flightlineac.com
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
      rv(at)thelefflers.com
      Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 9:43 AM
      Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: overhead console
      
      
      John,
      
      Please provide some highlights.  Other than a small picture, there really
      isn't any info on your web site.
      
      What's the price?
      What are the unique features?
      What options does it come with?
      
      thanks,
      
      bob
      
      > 
      > From: "John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
      > Date: 2008/02/06 Wed AM 10:17:55 EST
      > To: 
      > Subject: RE: RV10-List: overhead console
      > 
      > Flightline AC has an overhead that they sell separately from their ac
      unit.
      > 
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > www.flightlineac.com
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > John N. Strain II
      > 
      > Flightline AC, Inc
      > 
      > P.O. Box 5309
      > 
      > Bend, Or 97708
      > 
      > 541-815-8935 Cell
      > 
      > 541-330-5466 Office
      > 
      > 541-312-4257 Fax
      > 
      > john(at)flightlineac.com
      > 
      > www.flightlineac.com
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics
      > overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I
      > would like a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console.
      I
      > like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas,
      and
      > hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air
      vents,
      > or anything aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself,
      but
      > being lazy, and adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I
      > thought I would query the list for possible sources or at least ideas?
      > 
      > In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to
      ask
      > people what kind of primer should I use on it?
      > 
      >  
      > 
      > Chris Hukill
      > 
      > stirring the pot
      > 
      >  
      >  
      >  
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
From: 
"zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      Here's what I did.....
      
      S-10 Overhead Console from Ebay.  $50.
      
      Zack
      
      --------
      RV8 #80125 
      RV10 # 40512
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162751#162751
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06567_134.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06555_159.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06547_203.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
      
      Great, now I am one of the guys that said, "here's what I did" from Tim's forum
      joke he sent around a few months ago.  
      
      But, here is what I did.  Did it for less than $20. (not including Steins LED's)
      The red lights dim and I hooked the white LED's up to my "Switches" dimmer to I
      could dim them as well.  
      So far, it has worked great.  I am going to add two more red LED's from Stein that
      point down on my lap.  or to the corners of the panel if I wanted.  
      
      http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t 787
      
      Scott Schmidt
      scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----
      From: zackrv8 <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
      Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 4:03:43 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: overhead console
      
      
      --> 
      RV10-List 
      message 
      posted 
      by: 
      "zackrv8" 
      
      
      Here's 
      what 
      I 
      did.....
      
      S-10 
      Overhead 
      Console 
      from 
      Ebay.  
      $50.
      
      Zack
      
      --------
      RV8 
      #80125 
      RV10 
      # 
      40512
      
      
      Read 
      this 
      topic 
      online 
      here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162751#162751
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06567_134.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06555_159.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06547_203.jpg
      
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      
      
      I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top, finding the scribe 
      lines, measuring things etc.  It looks like several strips of peel ply 
      have been left on some of the surfaces around the door opening.
      
      Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell?  I thinking it should be 
      removed using a little heat....
      
      Any advice welcome.
      
      Thanks for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters!
      
      Bill "dipping a toe in the glass work" Watson
      #40605
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Emailing: P1070017, P1070018, P1070019, P1070020
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
              
      For those who are looking for the terminals for the Slickstart. 
      
      
      Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
      attachments:
      
      P1070017
      P1070018
      P1070019
      P1070020
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
From: 
"Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      Zack and/or other S-10 console users, do you know the weight of the console? -Andy
      
      --------
      Andy Turner
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162765#162765
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top
      
      
      The peel ply, if that's what it is should be able to be ripped err... peeled off,
      try grabbing it with pliers. If you havn't seen it before it's only dacron
      cloth material, I hate to say it but you might be looking at the actual exposed
      weave of the glass used for the top. But maybe not...it's such a high quality
      piece....NOT.
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 4:01:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      
      
      I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top, finding the scribe 
      lines, measuring things etc.  It looks like several strips of peel ply 
      have been left on some of the surfaces around the door opening.
      
      Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell?  I thinking it should be 
      removed using a little heat....
      
      Any advice welcome.
      
      Thanks for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters!
      
      Bill "dipping a toe in the glass work" Watson
      #40605
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Emailing: P1070017, P1070018, P1070019, P1070020
      
      
      And the right mag is just loverly to get the P-lead and ground hooked up. David,
      did you heat shrink your entire P-lead or just near the teminal end?
      
      Rick S.
      40185
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
      Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 4:00:51 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: P1070017, P1070018, P1070019, P1070020
      
              
      For those who are looking for the terminals for the Slickstart. 
      
      
      Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
      attachments:
      
      P1070017
      P1070018
      P1070019
      P1070020
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: overhead console
From: 
"zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      Andy Turner wrote:
      > Zack and/or other S-10 console users, do you know the weight of the console?
      -Andy
      
      
      Andy,
      
        I don't know the weight.  However, you can "gut" alot of the unneeded stuff out,
      thus reducing the weight.
      
      Zack
      
      --------
      RV8 #80125 
      RV10 # 40512
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162774#162774
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
Peel ply left on the cabin top
Date: 
Feb 06, 2008
      
      
      On my cabin top there was no peel ply left on the part, but in some areas, 
      orange plastic bagging material. Also what is most curious, when looking at
       the part from the outside, in some areas around the door opening, like at 
      the angles there is what appears to be blue painters tape laid up in betwee
      n the glass laminations. 
      
      I would not touch the blue tape, but the plastic bagging material is remove
      d with the rough sanding that knocks down all the high spots on the inside 
      of the cabin top.  No doubt, this part had so many voids in it around the d
      oor openings and then they attempted a half ass cure of slopping in some re
      sin with microfibers and left it very un-even and still with voids in the p
      atch. 
      
      I hope the cowl is not like this, is it??????????
      
      JOhn G. 409> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 21:31:30 -0500> From: ricksked@embarqmai
      l.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Peel ply left o
      arqmail.com>> > The peel ply, if that's what it is should be able to be rip
      ped err... peeled off, try grabbing it with pliers. If you havn't seen it b
      efore it's only dacron cloth material, I hate to say it but you might be lo
      oking at the actual exposed weave of the glass used for the top. But maybe 
      not...it's such a high quality piece....NOT.> > Rick S.> 40185> ----- Origi
      nal Message -----> From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>> To: "RV10-L
      ist Digest Server" > Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 
      2008 4:01:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles> Subject: RV10-List: Peel pl
      auleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>> > I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top
      , finding the scribe > lines, measuring things etc. It looks like several s
      trips of peel ply > have been left on some of the surfaces around the door 
      opening.> > Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell? I thinking it sh
      ould be > removed using a little heat....> > Any advice welcome.> > Thanks 
      for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters!> > Bill "dipping a t
      ========================> _
      ===============> > > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
From: 
Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top
      
      
      Cowl is a bit better...stil lots of weave to fill. 
      
      
      Rick S. 
      
      40185 
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> 
      Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 7:28:22 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      
      
      On my cabin top there was no peel ply left on the part, but in some areas, 
      orange plastic bagging material. Also what is most curious, when looking at
       the part from the outside, in some areas around the door opening, like at 
      the angles there is what appears to be blue painters tape laid up in betwee
      n the glass laminations. 
      =C2- 
      I would not touch the blue tape, but the plastic bagging material is remove
      d with the rough sanding that knocks down all the high spots on the inside 
      of the cabin top.=C2- No doubt, this part had so many voids in it around 
      the door openings and then they attempted a half ass cure of slopping in so
      me resin with microfibers and left it very un-even and still with voids in 
      the patch. 
      =C2- 
      I hope the cowl is not like this, is it?????????? 
      =C2- 
      JOhn G. 409 
      
      > Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 21:31:30 -0500 
      > From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com 
      > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com 
      > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      > 
      > 
      > The peel ply, if that's what it is should be able to be ripped err... pee
      led off, try grabbing it with pliers. If you havn't seen it before it's onl
      y dacron cloth material, I hate to say it but you might be looking at the a
      ctual exposed weave of the glass used for the top. But maybe not...it's suc
      h a high quality piece....NOT. 
      > 
      > Rick S. 
      > 40185 
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> 
      > To: "RV10-List Digest Server"  
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2008 4:01:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angel
      es 
      > Subject: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      > 
      > 
      > I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top, finding the scribe 
      > lines, measuring things etc. It looks like several strips of peel ply 
      > have been left on some of the surfaces around the door opening. 
      > 
      > Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell? I thinking it should be 
      > removed using a little heat.... 
      > 
      > Any advice welcome. 
      > 
      > Thanks for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters! 
      > 
      > Bill "dipping a toe in the glass work" Watson 
      > #40605 
      &g========= 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      ====
      =======================
      ==
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: 
Peel ply left on the cabin top 
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
      
      
      Hi Bill,
      
      I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was
      still fresh in my mind.  I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top.
      
      I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to compare:
      
      http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7
      
      If it is in fact peel ply, I would think it should be removed.
      
      Best Regards,
      Patrick #40715 / N690CT
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
      Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 4:01 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      
      
      I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top, finding the scribe 
      lines, measuring things etc.  It looks like several strips of peel ply 
      have been left on some of the surfaces around the door opening.
      
      Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell?  I thinking it should be 
      removed using a little heat....
      
      Any advice welcome.
      
      Thanks for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters!
      
      Bill "dipping a toe in the glass work" Watson
      #40605
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
air conditioner and magnetometer location
From: 
"tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
      
      
      I'm seriously considering the Flightline ac system. Weight is not an issue for
      me.  
      My big concern is the future location of the magnetometer.  Whatever avionics I
      use, this mounting will be critical. Just looking at the AFS site, the minimum
      recommended distance from any signicant metal mass is 24".  Usual mounting point
      for the magnetometer and the a/c evaporator are both in the forward part
      of the tailcone.
      
      I spoke to one installer that advised putting the magnetometer in the overhead
      console.
      
      Is my concern valid?
      Any suggestions?
      
      
      Thanks in advance,
      Tom Hanaway
      starting qb fuselage
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162881#162881
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
From: 
MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top - NOT
      
      
      Not a problem.  It appears that I simply have (lots of) scraps of peel 
      ply along all the edges of where the peel ply was applied.  Some plastic 
      too. 
      
      A small child was lost....
      ....Nevermind
      
      Bill "continuing to bond with his glass top" Watson
      
      Patrick ONeill wrote:
      >
      > Hi Bill,
      >
      > I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was
      > still fresh in my mind.  I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top.
      >
      > I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to compare:
      >
      > http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7
      >
      > If it is in fact peel ply, I would think it should be removed.
      >
      > Best Regards,
      > Patrick #40715 / N690CT
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
      > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 4:01 PM
      > To: RV10-List Digest Server
      > Subject: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top 
      >
      >
      > I've just started "becoming one" with my cabin top, finding the scribe 
      > lines, measuring things etc.  It looks like several strips of peel ply 
      > have been left on some of the surfaces around the door opening.
      >
      > Has anyone else seen this? How would one tell?  I thinking it should be 
      > removed using a little heat....
      >
      > Any advice welcome.
      >
      > Thanks for the great class Dave and the Team at Aerocrafters!
      >
      > Bill "dipping a toe in the glass work" Watson
      > #40605
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
From: 
MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry
      
      
      I just installed the trim servo and am playing with the trim setup.  The 
      cable geometry  dictates that the tabs will not move together.  The 
      right hand elevator moves through a much greater arc than the left.  A 
      fact that is probably less noticeable with the rudder in place. 
      
      However, when I adjust the clevises and the Rivethead bracket to get 35 
      degrees of deflection at the full up trim position, I find that I am at 
      the maximum physical deflection of the tab itself (not a problem, just 
      an acceptable coincidence). 
      
      More noteworthy, I find that with both the left and  right hand elevator 
      tabs adjusted to 35 degrees full up at one end of the servo's travel, 
      going to the full down trim position results in the right elevator tab 
      moving to a roughly 20 degree deflection while the left elevator tab is 
      at zero deflection.  In fact, the last few mm of servo movement result 
      in the left tab deflecting very slightly in the opposite direction.
      
      None of this is inconsistent with the asymmetric geometry of the whole 
      setup but just want some warm fuzzies that others are experienced 
      something similar.  (If this is in the archives, I just can't find it).
      
      Bill "there's a good bit of trim drag in here somewhere" Watson
      40605
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
From: 
"Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: air conditioner and magnetometer location
      
      
      Are those considering AC planning on the engine driven or all
      electric?  14 or 28V systems?
      
      On Feb 7, 2008 2:42 PM, tomhanaway  wrote:
      >
      > I'm seriously considering the Flightline ac system. Weight is not an issue for
      me.
      > My big concern is the future location of the magnetometer.  Whatever avionics
      I use, this mounting will be critical. Just looking at the AFS site, the minimum
      recommended distance from any signicant metal mass is 24".  Usual mounting
      point for the magnetometer and the a/c evaporator are both in the forward part
      of the tailcone.
      >
      > I spoke to one installer that advised putting the magnetometer in the overhead
      console.
      >
      > Is my concern valid?
      > Any suggestions?
      >
      >
      > Thanks in advance,
      > Tom Hanaway
      > starting qb fuselage
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162881#162881
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: air conditioner and magnetometer location
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
From: 
dougpflyrv(at)aol.com
      
      
       I WENT WITH ENGINE DRIVEN.
      DOUG PRESTON
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 6:17 pm
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: air conditioner and magnetometer location
      
      
      Are those considering AC planning on the engine driven or all
      electric?  14 or 28V systems?
      
      On Feb 7, 2008 2:42 PM, tomhanaway  wrote:
      >
      > I'm seriously considering the Flightline ac system. Weight is not an issue for
      
      me.
      > My big concern is the future location of the magnetometer.  Whatever avionics
      
      I use, this mounting will be critical. Just looking at the AFS site, the minimum
      
      recommended distance from any signicant metal mass is 24".  Usual mounting point
      
      for the magnetometer and the a/c evaporator are both in the forward part of the
      
      tailcone.
      >
      > I spoke to one installer that advised putting the magnetometer in the overhead
      
      console.
      >
      > Is my concern valid?
      > Any suggestions?
      >
      >
      > Thanks in advance,
      > Tom Hanaway
      > starting qb fuselage
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162881#162881
      >
      >
      
      
      ________________________________________________________________________
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: air conditioner and magnetometer location
From: 
"tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2008
      
      
      I'm looking at 12v engine driven.
      Tom
      
      

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January 30, 2008 - February 07, 2008

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-da

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