RV10-Archive.digest.vol-db

February 07, 2008 - February 22, 2008



      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162917#162917
      
      
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From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling
Date: Feb 07, 2008
Begin forwarded message: > From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> > The slot for the lower cowl needs to extend all the way forward, > stopping 4.25" from the leading edge of the intake. This allows the > cowl to be dropped down then slid forward. I took a picute of Wayne > Egerton (Sorry for the spelling Wayne)I plan to install an aluminum > panel on mine to cover the front portion of the slot from the gear > leg up...Deems has done similar to his cowl. > > Rick S. > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> > To: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com > Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2008 3:37:55 PM (GMT-0800) America/ > Los_Angeles > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling > > Hey Rick - if you have info or pics of the way you configured your > lower cowl to accommodate removing it around the three blade prop, > I'm sure several of us would benefit... > John Ackerman 40458 > > > On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:45 PM, Rick Sked wrote: >> I cut the top cowl in today...Guys and Gals I gotta tell you the >> masking tape to mark the firewall cut is the BOMB!!!... I use two >> wheels so far and that inclusdes the slot in the bottom cowl, my >> slot is much long due to the three blade prop...highly recommended >> these nifty cut off wheels. >> Rick S. >> 40185=EF=BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Re: magnetometer location
Date: Feb 08, 2008
I would recommend that you put the magnetometer in the wingtip. Make a 90 degree bracket and rivet the bracket to the outboard rib. In stall one pop rivet in either the front or back of the bracket so that you can rotate the bracket on one end up or down to get the bracket leveled with the in flight position of the wing. Check the bottom of the cabin door with a level and then just level the bracket to the same bubble or degree as the bottom of the cabin door and then put in the rest of the mounting rivets and bolt on the magnetometer (non steel bolts). Russ Daves N710RV - 190+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin
top Nice pics Patrick, Thanks. I just started marking mine up and doing some preliminary measurements. It looks like it will be real tight. That is, the door sill area on the QB is 37" and the scribe lines are about 37 1/4". Cutting inside the scribe lines looks like it starts taking away some of the flange structure. Did you find it very tight and close like that? On a second front, I ordered a Makita belt sander to help with the top but it hasn't shipped yet. However, I started looking at the air powered belt sanders from Yard and HarborF. Potentially a $150 saving.... has anyone used them? What are you using? Doing this work outside sure looks attractive. Bill "thinking about a HarboF run" Watson Patrick ONeill wrote: > > Hi Bill, > > I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was > still fresh in my mind. I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top. > > I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to compare: > > http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: magnetometer location
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Russ, Have you had any issues with proximity of wingtip strobes to magnetometer in this installation? Thanks, tom Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162970#162970 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: overhead console
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Hey Dave: Jay Rowe from Maine would like one of those overhead consoles. By the way I just finished "welding" the lower gear strut fairings to the wheel pants----you were so right, it took a long long time to get it right. In retrospect I should have followed your advice and not have gone to all that work. But since I am still waiting for my panel from AA I did have the time. Do you want to bill me for the console or should I pop a check in the mail? 151 North Shore Lane, Winthrop, ME 04364, 207 322-6167 ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Saylor To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 12:28 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: overhead console Hi Chris, We are producing a small fiberglass overhead console especially for the 10. We made the mold from the top of my plane after the strut was in place, so it fits very nicely around the top of the bar. I wanted something fairly compact to maintain as much headroom as possible. It weighs 2.4 ounces and is 1 1/2 inches deep. I attached mine with flathead sheet metal screws directly into the ceiling. I have two of Stein's LEDs in mine. I ran the wires up the strut. There's plenty of room for another dome light and a couple switches, and it's deep enough to put a 90 degree coax connector inside if you want a GPS antenna on top. It also fits nicely on the baggage area ceiling, although I haven't worked out an attachment method. The honeycomb core wouldn't take a screw too well so a little beefing up would be in order. I've been meaning to get these and a few other products on the web site but your post seemed like a good time to jump in. Here are a few pictures. I have several in stock. $150 each plus shipping. Any questions please call. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: overhead console Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy Avionics overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of plastic, but I would like a basic console similar to the forward half of the AA console. I like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place to mount antennas, and hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice. I don't need the air vents, or anything aft of the front seats. I could of course built one myself, but being lazy, and adverse to any more fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query the list for possible sources or at least ideas? In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like to ask people what kind of primer should I use on it? Chris Hukill stirring the pot href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- 2/6/2008 9:13 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: overhead console
From: "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Here's the biggest profit part to date. The first one I ordered from Accuracy Avionics was $1800 with DVD, vents, clothes hook in baggage area also cabin lights and baggage dome light all wired. Overpriced didn't fit well at all, needed a lot of mod. to work but end result was beautiful. Second one I ordered was $1100 with no DVD but everything else was the same to include the bad fit even after pictures and feedback. Third one I ordered was $1350 also with no DVD and it would only be $250 more from the last one I ordered if I would wire the lighting to save it from being even more. What I received was not only not wired like we discussed but there was no clothes hanging bar, access panel not fit or mounted and the same horrible fit over all. One of the 10's I have in the shop has the overhead from flightline A/C and that might work I'm going to see how well that fits the tub today and maybe I have a replacement. I want to keep installing these overheads due to the fact that I install two naca vents in the back and force fresh air into the overhead and that really works great. and the 10 needs some cooling. Steve Raddatz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162983#162983 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: magnetometer location
Date: Feb 08, 2008
I've never seen the inside of magnetometer, but is the the fact that there might be a lot of vibration at the end of the wing any concern for longevit y of the unit. Should it be mounted on foam pads? JOhn 409> Subject: RV10-List: Re: magnetometer location> From: tomhanaway@c omcast.net> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 04:51:04 -0800> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.c >> > Russ,> Have you had any issues with proximity of wingtip strobes to ma gnetometer in this installation?> Thanks,> tom> > > > > Read this topic onl ine here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162970#162970> > -======================== ==> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin
top
Date: Feb 08, 2008
On mine, the scribe lines were very unreliable. The scribes on the cabin bottom flange under the rear windows varied from 1 1/8" to 7/8" (plans specify 3/4")and were extremely wavy with dual scribe lines overlapping and crossing when they started over. I re-marked according to dimensions in the plans. I did not finish the fitting yet, but the initial cuts were definitely too large to fit. The door jams weren't anywhere close to fitting to the fuselage. I've been waiting until I had enough time to carefully work on the fit. As for that magic mini Makita belt sander ( http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9031 ), when I got home from the Watsonville class I searched all the local places for one, but no one carried it. I ended up using a standard electric hand held Makita 3x18 belt sander which I already had: http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9910 (have lots of belts, they go quick, I found the more expensive blue belts last much much longer than the standard brown ones and would recommend them) That worked great. To get clean corners I used the die grinder sanding drum kit from Avery: http://www.averytools.com/pc-924-80-3m-rubber-expanding-sanding-drums-and-ba nds-kit.aspx For the actual cutting I used this saw from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91753 It worked great aside from running through blades quickly. I ran out but was able to find a blade pack at a local home depot that worked and was able to soldier on to completion: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098704 That combination of tools worked perfectly for me. I'm glad I didn't spend the $250 on that mini-Makita. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 3:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top Nice pics Patrick, Thanks. I just started marking mine up and doing some preliminary measurements. It looks like it will be real tight. That is, the door sill area on the QB is 37" and the scribe lines are about 37 1/4". Cutting inside the scribe lines looks like it starts taking away some of the flange structure. Did you find it very tight and close like that? On a second front, I ordered a Makita belt sander to help with the top but it hasn't shipped yet. However, I started looking at the air powered belt sanders from Yard and HarborF. Potentially a $150 saving.... has anyone used them? What are you using? Doing this work outside sure looks attractive. Bill "thinking about a HarboF run" Watson Patrick ONeill wrote: > > Hi Bill, > > I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was > still fresh in my mind. I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top. > > I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to compare: > > http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Michael, I have installed two AA overheads that where after the fact deals, Cut off the front of it where it dips and also cut off the entire back lip which is to long anyway and when your all done with the install you will use the Vans wing root seal or on the 10 its the same seal that goes under the Hor. stab. Now where the drop down is from going from the front cabin to back cut out a big relief so we can pull the back overhead up to the cabin. once you have a fit, drill through the overhead and into the first layer of cabin tub right up front just off the rollbar with a #40 drillbit and cleco it up there then go to the back cabin right after the hump and drill and put cleco's about every 8 inches right to the back bulkhead remember to only drill through the first layer, believe me you will know when that happens. Also you will not need any cleco's after the front two in the front cabin because you will be using spring clamps down along the door frame. Now If everything looks good take a marker and trace the outline of your overhead on the cabin take out the overhead and sand everything so the epoxy will bind thats why you put the mark on the overhead so you would know where to sand. Now get in you truck and run to the local tractor supply and buy a large horse syringe of coarse with no needle and go buy some epoxy and cab-o-sil mix up a batch and make it thick put it in the syringe and spread it around the overhead now cleco and clamp it up also remember to spread some drop clothes in the plane for drips. any problems call me at 256-443-1915 Steve Raddatz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163080#163080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 08, 2008
I forgot when everything dries you can glass in the relief you cut between the front and back cabin and you can finish the edge how you want, we use a single layer of 2 inch glass tape and Z glass the blend after. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163087#163087 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Great Thanks Steve for the explanation. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163129#163129 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Re: magnetometer location
Date: Feb 09, 2008
No problem. Russ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin
top
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Patrick thanks for the write up. Which body saw blades did you find worked best fine or coarse tooth? -Ben Westfall #40579 / N109LB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 1:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top On mine, the scribe lines were very unreliable. The scribes on the cabin bottom flange under the rear windows varied from 1 1/8" to 7/8" (plans specify 3/4")and were extremely wavy with dual scribe lines overlapping and crossing when they started over. I re-marked according to dimensions in the plans. I did not finish the fitting yet, but the initial cuts were definitely too large to fit. The door jams weren't anywhere close to fitting to the fuselage. I've been waiting until I had enough time to carefully work on the fit. As for that magic mini Makita belt sander ( http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9031 ), when I got home from the Watsonville class I searched all the local places for one, but no one carried it. I ended up using a standard electric hand held Makita 3x18 belt sander which I already had: http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9910 (have lots of belts, they go quick, I found the more expensive blue belts last much much longer than the standard brown ones and would recommend them) That worked great. To get clean corners I used the die grinder sanding drum kit from Avery: http://www.averytools.com/pc-924-80-3m-rubber-expanding-sanding-drums-and-ba nds-kit.aspx For the actual cutting I used this saw from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91753 It worked great aside from running through blades quickly. I ran out but was able to find a blade pack at a local home depot that worked and was able to soldier on to completion: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098704 That combination of tools worked perfectly for me. I'm glad I didn't spend the $250 on that mini-Makita. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Ben, Patrick, Bill, David, Gary, et al...... If you took pictures at the Aircrafter's seminar, I would like to get a copy of your pictures. I can set up a ftp account to upload them. Thanks, bob __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2861 (20080209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2008
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: tungsten carbide grit
I would *HIGHLY* recommend finding tungsten carbide blades. I ended up doing all my cuts using a jigsaw with these special tungsten carbide grit covered jig saw blades. I never found them at either lowes or home depot. i did find them at my local smaller ace hardware store for about $5, i think. they are good for almost any material. i bought 2, in case one breaks. also, i use one for a while and let it cool down while i use the other. i haven't noticed any wear at all. i can't find it on acehardware.com, hmmm. however, the one i used is similar to this link below. you can click on the image to enlarge it. mine has a thinner blade, to allow for tighter corners. http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-48-42-0801.html Jae #40533 - pitot tube install taking forever Ben Westfall wrote: > > Patrick thanks for the write up. Which body saw blades did you find worked > best fine or coarse tooth? > > -Ben Westfall > #40579 / N109LB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Date: Feb 09, 2008
http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/aerocrafters-fiberglass-class/ Here are all my pictures from the class. -Ben Westfall #40579 / N109LB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 8:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures Ben, Patrick, Bill, David, Gary, et al...... If you took pictures at the Aircrafter's seminar, I would like to get a copy of your pictures. I can set up a ftp account to upload them. Thanks, bob __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2861 (20080209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Oops wrong url in the last email... http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/aircrafters-fiberglass-class -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 8:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures Ben, Patrick, Bill, David, Gary, et al...... If you took pictures at the Aircrafter's seminar, I would like to get a copy of your pictures. I can set up a ftp account to upload them. Thanks, bob __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2861 (20080209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Subject: Re: tungsten carbide grit
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Yup, I used those and I did find them at Home Depot made by Bosch and also a no-name brand. I have a picture of the packages somewhere but I have not updated the web page in a while. Designed for wall tile and fiberglass. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > I would *HIGHLY* recommend finding tungsten carbide blades. I ended up doing all my cuts using a jigsaw with these special tungsten carbide grit covered jig saw blades. I never found them at either lowes or home depot. i did find them at my local smaller ace hardware store for about $5, i think. they are good for almost any material. i bought 2, in case one breaks. also, i use one for a while and let it cool down while i use the other. i haven't noticed any wear at all. i can't find it on acehardware.com, hmmm. however, the one i used is similar to this link below. you can click on the image to enlarge it. mine has a thinner blade, to allow for tighter corners. http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-48-42-0801.html Jae #40533 - pitot tube install taking forever ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 09, 2008
Subject: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
I have pictures so if anyone would like me to email, just email me. It may take a couple emails because it is about 5 meg. Dave Syvertson _dsyvert(at)aol.com_ (mailto:dsyvert(at)aol.com) do no archieve **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition Switch Drawing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Wisconsin Visit
Date: Feb 09, 2008
The family and I are heading out to Dellafield Wisconsin next week to see some friends. We'll be in town late Thursday through Monday morning. Weather permitting I'll take my 5 year old son up to the EAA Museum one of the days. Are there any 10 builders in the general area... Milwaukee, Dellafield, Oshkosh up for a visit? Jeff Carpenter South Pasadena, California 40304 Almost through the dreaded section 29 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hey guy's THANKS for the Ride!
Dean, & Bruce THANKS again for taking the time and for thinking of me. I REALLY enjoyed it. I put the photos from the trip up in an album on my web site here's the link :http://deemsrv10.com/album/Dean%20&%20Bruce's%20805HL%20in%20AZ/index.html Looking forward to OSH .08. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Hi, I saw somewhere in the forum quite some time ago pictures of jaw wrenches or extensions for a torque wrench. Does anyone know where to order these. I Have some nuts that can't be reaches with the torque wrench nut. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163269#163269 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they also ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: O-540 C4B5
From: "61brv10" <ttibc(at)msn.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Where can the mount ears be found? Thanks in advance. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163277#163277 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might save you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture: _http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench_ (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench) -Jim In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they also ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: V Speeds
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. Thanks Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque yo ur prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I borrowe d a Snap-on torq wrench=C2-with an open end adapter made just for that fr om a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool for the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might sa ve you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench -Jim In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well enzohn.net writes: > Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al so ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well enzohn.net writes: > Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al so ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. _ -======================== ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dimmers
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts [Laughing] I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with. Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W. Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is a voltage regulation type. Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say anything about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit. My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM, and how many circuits are people usually going with? I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather standard cockpit lights. Thoughts please. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Torque wrenches
Michael I want to echo Rick and Mr. McGrew. I have a set of the crows foot wrenches and have yet to be able to use them to torque _any_ of the hard to reach places. I made up an open end wrench and used them. The calculator really helps. Rick: I'm getting to the point of doing the doors. I saw your comments on the vansairforce site. Is the set of recessed handles on ebay the ones that are compatible with a lock? I wasn't real clear on that point. Also, when my friend broke his wheel pants on his RV 10, I had my dad make up two sets of the beefed up extensions and I now have an extra set. I already have a pair installed. Does anyone want them for $60?? Fred Williams 903 491 5207 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Dave, I would be interested in the pictures. Ed Godfrey 40717 Dsyvert(at)aol.com wrote: > I have pictures so if anyone would like me to email, just email me. It > may take a couple emails because it is about 5 meg. > > Dave Syvertson > dsyvert(at)aol.com > > do no archieve > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL > Music. > <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000002548> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
Date: Feb 10, 2008
You an make the tool for about $20 to torque the prop. Buy a good quality open ended wrench, 3/4" IIRC. heat and create an S with the wrench. Then weld a short 3/8" socket adapter on the center of the wrench. Torque wrench is inserted into the adapter and open end wrench goes tot he prop nut. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:07 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque your prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I borrowed a Snap-on torq wrench with an open end adapter made just for that from a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool for the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might save you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379 <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench> &highlight=wrench -Jim In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net writes: Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they also ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 _____ Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000 0002548> Music. D======================== ========= D======================== ========= D======================== ========= D======================== ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: elevator weldment
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Check your elevator weldments. While doing the final attachment of the elevator weldment, a small crack was found where the end that attaches the main elevator pushrod is bent to form flanges to give it strength. It was obviously created when the weldment was bent during fabrication. A bit of sanding and polishing eliminated a problem in a critical part. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Keep in mind that you as the builder may have different speeds than this generic one. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds > > Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have > searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. > > Thanks > Gary > 40274 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Date: Feb 10, 2008
I just posted mine on my company's ftp site. Email me and I'll forward an userid and password. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 5:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures I have pictures so if anyone would like me to email, just email me. It may take a couple emails because it is about 5 meg. Dave Syvertson dsyvert(at)aol.com do no archieve _____ Who's never won? Biggest <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000 0002548> Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2861 (20080209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Date: Feb 10, 2008
All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely. Randy Lervold RV-8, sold RV-3B www.rv-3.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds > > Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have > searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. > > Thanks > Gary > 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by the engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point. regards Chris 388 Wings painted and glowing ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds > > All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all > about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has > its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a > problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers > from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the > rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly > safely. > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, sold > RV-3B www.rv-3.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM > Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds > > >> >> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have >> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. >> >> Thanks >> Gary >> 40274 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dimmers
I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it. Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf Linn orchidman wrote: > >I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts [Laughing] >I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with. Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W. Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is a voltage regulation type. > >Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say anything about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit. > >My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM, and how many circuits are people usually going with? > >I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather standard cockpit lights. > >Thoughts please. > >-------- >Gary Blankenbiller >RV10 - # 40674 >Fuselage SB >(N410GB reserved) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
My thoughts, for what they are worth is that each plane will be the same basically but different uniquely. So the speeds are a good start for the Phase 1 testing but one needs to confirm if the speeds are accurate for the uniquely built plane. As much as we are all building the RV-10 mine will be faster than the majority due to the lack of instruments and paint and holy cow cowling with the 5 blade carbon and titanium blade... my point is weight will play a factor in speeds as will the aerodynamic perfection of bondo.. just my thoughts.. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds > > > Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by > the engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point. > > regards Chris 388 > Wings painted and glowing > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds > > >> >> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is >> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static >> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is >> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just >> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only >> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test >> appropriately and fly safely. >> >> Randy Lervold >> RV-8, sold >> RV-3B www.rv-3.com >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> >> To: >> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM >> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds >> >> >>> >>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have >>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Gary >>> 40274 >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque wrenches
Fred, Yes the ones FS on Vansairforce/E-Bay are the ones with the built in lock...make sure you get the cylinders with them, his picture shows them removed. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:19:04 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Torque wrenches Michael I want to echo Rick and Mr. McGrew. I have a set of the crows foot wrenches and have yet to be able to use them to torque _any_ of the hard to reach places. I made up an open end wrench and used them. The calculator really helps. Rick: I'm getting to the point of doing the doors. I saw your comments on the vansairforce site. Is the set of recessed handles on ebay the ones that are compatible with a lock? I wasn't real clear on that point. Also, when my friend broke his wheel pants on his RV 10, I had my dad make up two sets of the beefed up extensions and I now have an extra set. I already have a pair installed. Does anyone want them for $60?? Fred Williams 903 491 5207 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
Also, The web RV guru on the -7 side of=C2-world (and one of the best sit es for=C2-all RV's)=C2-Dan Checkoway shows how to fabricate on that wil l work as well....search Dan's site. His idea is neat too.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:44:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches You an make the tool for about $20 to torque the prop. Buy a good quality o pen ended wrench, 3/4" IIRC. heat and create an S with the wrench. Then wel d a short 3/8" socket adapter on the center of the wrench. Torque wrench is inserted into the adapter and open end wrench goes tot he prop nut. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:07 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque yo ur prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I borrowe d a Snap-on torq wrench=C2-with an open end adapter made just for that fr om a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool for the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might sa ve you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench -Jim In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well enzohn.net writes: > Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al so ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well enzohn.net writes: > Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al so ship to Europe. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276 Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. 3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com /contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 ================ ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dimmers
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote: > I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it. > Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com. > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf > Linn I have seen this but I was hoping that I would not have to 'role my own'. Plus this one requires a heat sink equaling heat and higher wattage consumption. My hope is that I could get some discussion about the Pulse Width Modulation types and if there are any negatives. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163369#163369 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Intersection Fairings
Date: Feb 11, 2008
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Intersection Fairings
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
That was interesting.? :-) -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Pulis <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> Sent: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 3:58 pm Subject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Yes the engineer determines the v-speeds in theory, but there are small differences in airframes (gear leg intersection fairings for example) that cause differences, and potentially BIG differences in the instrumentation. In other words let's say we're talking stall speed, Vso, the actual TAS of your plane at Vso might be the same as your buddy's but your pitot/static system gives a different result because you used a static port with a different profile. If you assume his stall speed without testing the airplane might drop out from under you one day when you're a little slow on final because you were assuming they were the same. 10 mph differences between planes in ASI readings at the bottom end of the scale are not uncommon. It's fine to use someone elses numbers as a starting point, but to not test is NOT ok -- it sends chills up my spine thinking about it. I have close friends who have just gone out and flown their RVs using someone elses numbers and did no stall testing whatsoever at gross weight & aft CG for example, only solo/light. The day their test time is flown off they put Bubba in the pax seat when they have NO IDEA how that load will effect stall speed or behavior. We are each the manufacturer of our aicraft and are obliged, both legally and morally I think, derive accurate numbers for safe operation. Sorry, off soapbox now, but this is one of my pet peeves. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds > > > Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by > the engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point. > > regards Chris 388 > Wings painted and glowing > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds > > >> >> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is >> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static >> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is >> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just >> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only >> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test >> appropriately and fly safely. >> >> Randy Lervold >> RV-8, sold >> RV-3B www.rv-3.com >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> >> To: >> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM >> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds >> >> >>> >>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have >>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Gary >>> 40274 >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dimmers
orchidman wrote: > > >pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote: > > >>I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it. >>Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com. >>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf >>Linn >> >> > >I have seen this but I was hoping that I would not have to 'role my own'. > I think Aeroelectric sells it built. Or maybe they used to. > Plus this one requires a heat sink equaling heat and higher wattage consumption. > The power has to go somewhere. The old potentiometer type dimmers were a really high watage variable resistor that also got pretty hot .... >My hope is that I could get some discussion about the Pulse Width Modulation types and if there are any negatives. > The only negative I can think of is that switching on/off like that might produce ripple (read noise) on the power bus. You can use a 555 timer (Radio Shack) to drive a power transistor (the 555 won't handle a lot of current), but we're back to the heat sink if there's a lot of incandescent lamps. If you go to LED lighting, the power consumption will be less, and lessen the need for a heatsink. > >-------- >Gary Blankenbiller >RV10 - # 40674 >Fuselage SB >(N410GB reserved) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163369#163369 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Flymire heated pitot
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Anybody using this one? What are your experiences? sells at Spruce for $465. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: Dimmers
I'm using the $115 one from Vans. The instructions include a very modest modification (2 resistors, one capacitor, details at http://fdatasystems.com/Manuals/LC-40_Garmin.pdf) to use the PWM signal with the Garmin 400/500 series units. I elected to follow the dimmer manufacturer's suggestion, however, and just use the built in photocell in my 530W to dim the unit automatically. I can always tie it in to the dimmer later if desired. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction orchidman wrote: > > I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts [Laughing] > I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with. Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W. Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is a voltage regulation type. > > Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say anything about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit. > > My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM, and how many circuits are people usually going with? > > I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather standard cockpit lights. > > Thoughts please. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Fuselage SB > (N410GB reserved) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Parking Brake Question
Hi Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose). Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way? Inquiring minds need to know.... Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Mounting the tail feathers
Date: Feb 10, 2008
I'm almost to the point in my build where I'm ready to mount the HS and VS to the tailcone. To those of you who have gone ahead with this step by step in the instructions, how well was the tail section squared and leveled with the wings when you finally got the tailcone mounted to the fuse with the wings on? To put it simply, to get things squared and leveled best do I need to wait until the tailcone and fuse are joined and the wings installed before mounting the HS and VS??? Also, it looks like the aft deck is one of my last chances to get any twist out of the tailcone if there is any. Is it safe to go ahead and rivet it on also. I assume that since Vans wrote the instructions the way they did I can go ahead and follow the instructions step by step but I want to know how far off things might be if I do so!!! I really don't want to have to drill out a bunch of rivets later on and shim the HS or VS!!! Thanks Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Question
Here's one way. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > > > Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked > at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way > to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" > cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose). > > > > Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way? > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dimmers
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2008
Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu wrote: > I'm using the $115 one from Vans. The instructions include a very > modest modification (2 resistors, one capacitor, details at > http://fdatasystems.com/Manuals/LC-40_Garmin.pdf) to use the PWM signal > with the Garmin 400/500 series units. I elected to follow the dimmer > manufacturer's suggestion, however, and just use the built in photocell > in my 530W to dim the unit automatically. I can always tie it in to the > dimmer later if desired. Tim, thanks for the link. That lead me also to the main manual. Both have given me the information I need to evaluate this option. Looks good. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163411#163411 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Date: Feb 11, 2008
With flight testing our 6 the ASI came pre marked however first flight we disregard the stall marking on the ASI until we did our first stall on first flight reading exactly where the stall speed was on the ASI . Then 1.5 for safety and you do not have a good guide for landing. This is basically straight out of the 6 manual. Our ASI was in Kooee of the stall so we did not have to change the markings. We followed what the RV6 manual said to do for first flight and everything was fine. Max flap speeds , rough air and VNE we take straight from the manual as the engineers have worked that out. The 10 is very easy to fly as my wife will tell. She hadnt flown for 2 years , took off had a fly did some stalls etc and then landed like a pro. I tend to follow what the manual says as Van is a smart man but its great to get others opinion. regards Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Parking Brake Question
Hi Deems Your setup is very similar to mine (I shamelessly borrowed from the various methods posted). It looks like you used a 1/4" cushion clap to hold the cable sleeve. Is this correct? Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: February-10-08 8:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking Brake Question Here's one way. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > > > Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked > at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way > to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" > cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose). > > > > Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way? > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Try again With flight testing our 6 the ASI came pre marked however first flight we disregard the stall marking on the ASI until we did our first stall on first flight reading exactly where the stall speed was on the ASI . Then 1.5 for safety and you do have a good guide for landing. This is basically straight out of the 6 manual. Our ASI was in Kooee of the stall so we did not have to change the markings. We followed what the RV6 manual said to do for first flight and everything was fine. Max flap speeds , rough air and VNE we take straight from the manual as the engineers have worked that out. The 10 is very easy to fly as my wife will tell. She hadnt flown for 2 years , took off had a fly did some stalls etc and then landed like a pro. I tend to follow what the manual says as Van is a smart man but its great to get others opinion. regards Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Parking Brake Question
Date: Feb 10, 2008
This is very similar to the way Vans have you termiate the cabin heat pull cable in other models. One thing they suggest in the plans for 2 seat side by sides is to use some safety wire wrapped around the cable outer either side of the clamp and bridged over the top of the clamp. The safety wire "cathes" in the spiral of the outer and helps prevent it from slipping in the clamp. g -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking Brake Question Here's one way. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > > > Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked > at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way > to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" > cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose). > > > > Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way? > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Contact Rick Gray if you have any interest. From: OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:37 PM Subject: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale Hi Gang, Wow....Danno' had a LOT OF STUFF!! As you know Dan bought nothing but the best...along with all the 'bells and whistles'. I picked up all of his airplane stuff on Thursday (13hrs)....got it 'semi' organized on Friday (13hrs)....and it was picked up on Saturday (another long day :^)). Jimmy B. who I took for a ride and many of you met a couple months ago (and, who ordered the entire RV7 QB from Van) is the proud new owner of Dan's very lightly used drill press, DRDT dimpler, brand new C' frame dimpler, big time fancy smancy Daniels Mil Spec Crimper, pneumatic squeezer(s), band saw, 4" belt sander....etc etc etc etc etc etc...you get the message. I'm really glad it all went to one place....and especially to Jim (I like to call him 'Jimmy' :^). I figure I'll get to 'use' these tools whenever I'm over at Jim's place helping him pound rivets so I couldn't be happier!! Oh yea...I bought a few things for myself....I wanted something that would remind me of Dan everytime I used it! OK...that said...there are a few items left over....I'll be posting them on Doug's site tomorrow or the next day but I said I'd mention them here 1st.....so I am :^). Dan loved this group and I hope it goes to folks from the group....if not...'it is what it is'. -Brand New in the box never used Lightspeed Thirty Three 'G' headsets with the Lemo Power plugs....2 sets...Dan had bought these for the kids. Lightspeed will change them to 'standard' jacks if needed. -Brand New never used RV10 Cabin cover...has Dan's N number on it in what appears to be vinyl. It looks like it will come off with a heat gun but I'm NOT going to touch it. It's great big hefty top quality cover that is in a heavy duty soft case. I can pull it out and see who made it you need me to. -Untouched RV10 spinner kit....no hardware but I can provide it if desired....I sorted all of Dan's leftover hardware into my bins as I felt it was the best place for it. -'Used' Flightcom Denali ANR headset (blue) that shows normal wear. No paperwork or bag or anything. I tried it on at the house and the ANR worked with the batteries that were in the case. -RV10 upper and lower cowls. Untouched...Dan went the James cowls. -LOTS of books including many of Tony B's books....some still have the shrink wrap on them and ALL of them are in perfect condition. If you are interested in any of the books let me know and I can make a list....I put in 3 13+hr days on it so far and haven't had time to make a list. Obviously I'll have to but I'm just letting you know that there are a LOT of quality aviation releted 'reading' and 'how to' books. -King IFR package in carry case. Lots of books and DVDS....just glanced at it so that's all I know about it right now. -Brand new (used once is my guess) Intercomp Racing scales. Dan didn't even pull the plastic off the bases. http://tinyurl.com/2tpyzx -'The Claw' tie down system. I'd like to say that is was 'new in the box' but I saw a couple of blades of grass in there and a couple of 'marks' on the one of the yellow powdercoated anchors so they are 'almost new'. -new heater/blower that Dan had for the Suby engine in the RV10. -overhead console for the RV10 -armrest console for the RV10. -huge (maybe 20 gallon) square (remote type) fiberglass fuel tank with cap/vent/etc.....you know Dan....he wanted to fly the RV10 non stop to California and back :^). The tank is obviously new. -I also have Dan's custom made (his own invention AFAIK) RV10 door lock system for the factory outside door handles. They are powdercoated red and have locks on them (2 ea). You'll have to 'remove' the locks and get your own as I don't have any keys. They are one of kind and a very neat idea for the factory locks...I like the factory handles better than the aftermarket and Dan was going to make me a set but we never got around to it since I sold my RV10. I may call one of the vendors to see if they want to copy Dan's idea after checking with Trish. There is more but that's off the top of my head to see if there was any interest. I can (and will) provide any/all details on any of the stuff....again....this post was just to get the word out to you guys. I'm NOT putting prices on anything...it was Dan's and the money goes to Trish so you offer what ever it's worth to you. I figure if you are interested then you have an idea of the value. If you want it then make me an offer and we'll go from there. All checks can be made out to Trish and you pay your own shipping. Rick at the Buffalo Farm - -Oh yea...my little Red Haired Wifey reminded me that I have an 'assortment' of David Clark and Lightspeed ANR headsets that I've collected if anyone is interested let me know...again...these are mine and not part of Dan's stuff. __._,_.___ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flymire heated pitot
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2008
That price is a little steep. The full list of pitot tubes from Aircraft Spruce has that one near the top and you have to scroll down a lot to find the Gretz heated pitot tube for $40 less; and a lot more scrolling to find the Dynon heated pitot/AOA tube - also for $40 less. Why does it have a $40 premium? John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163455#163455 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dimmers
Date: Feb 11, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
I like the dimmers from Perihelion: http://www.periheliondesign.com/egpavr.htm TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 Almost done with Wheelpants! tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Question
Les, I can't remember whether it was a DG2 or 3 or DG4, I've got a variety of Adel clamp sizes and I used one which didn't allow any movement. Deems Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi Deems > > Your setup is very similar to mine (I shamelessly borrowed from the various > methods posted). It looks like you used a 1/4" cushion clap to hold the > cable sleeve. Is this correct? > > Cheers > > Les > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: February-10-08 8:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking Brake Question > > > Here's one way. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Les Kearney wrote: > >> Hi >> >> >> >> Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked >> at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way >> to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" >> cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose). >> >> >> >> Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way? >> >> * >> * >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Subject: Re: V Speeds
In a message dated 2/10/2008 7:04:07 PM Central Standard Time, speckter(at)comcast.net writes: I don't comment often, but taking off on the first flight without setting the various speeds into your EFIS could easily make it your last flight I sort of hope that most builders flying skill are a little better than that...if you need to fly by numbers then you may not want to be the test pilot until you buildup some feel skills to test flight a new plane. Sure you may have some surprise, but for goodness sake get some air under you and use a longer runway than you think you'll need until you've got the feel of the plane. Who knows that any of the instruments may be accure on your first but you should be able to fly the plane by feel and touch. You may need to borrow a good handheld GPS that will give you some back up numbers such as a Garmin 396/496...but don't get too bogged down in the screens and forget to fly the plane...these wiz bang devices are great but you've only got a few things to consider....airspeed, attitude and altitude. **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale
Date: Feb 11, 2008
What is Rick's e-mail??? ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 5:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale Contact Rick Gray if you have any interest. From: OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:37 PM To: OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com Subject: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale Hi Gang, Wow....Danno' had a LOT OF STUFF!! As you know Dan bought nothing but the best...along with all the 'bells and whistles'. I picked up all of his airplane stuff on Thursday (13hrs)....got it 'semi' organized on Friday (13hrs)....and it was picked up on Saturday (another long day :^)). Jimmy B. who I took for a ride and many of you met a couple months ago (and, who ordered the entire RV7 QB from Van) is the proud new owner of Dan's very lightly used drill press, DRDT dimpler, brand new C' frame dimpler, big time fancy smancy Daniels Mil Spec Crimper, pneumatic squeezer(s), band saw, 4" belt sander....etc etc etc etc etc etc...you get the message. I'm really glad it all went to one place....and especially to Jim (I like to call him 'Jimmy' :^). I figure I'll get to 'use' these tools whenever I'm over at Jim's place helping him pound rivets so I couldn't be happier!! Oh yea...I bought a few things for myself....I wanted something that would remind me of Dan everytime I used it! OK...that said...there are a few items left over....I'll be posting them on Doug's site tomorrow or the next day but I said I'd mention them here 1st.....so I am :^). Dan loved this group and I hope it goes to folks from the group....if not...'it is what it is'. -Brand New in the box never used Lightspeed Thirty Three 'G' headsets with the Lemo Power plugs....2 sets...Dan had bought these for the kids. Lightspeed will change them to 'standard' jacks if needed. -Brand New never used RV10 Cabin cover...has Dan's N number on it in what appears to be vinyl. It looks like it will come off with a heat gun but I'm NOT going to touch it. It's great big hefty top quality cover that is in a heavy duty soft case. I can pull it out and see who made it you need me to. -Untouched RV10 spinner kit....no hardware but I can provide it if desired....I sorted all of Dan's leftover hardware into my bins as I felt it was the best place for it. -'Used' Flightcom Denali ANR headset (blue) that shows normal wear. No paperwork or bag or anything. I tried it on at the house and the ANR worked with the batteries that were in the case. -RV10 upper and lower cowls. Untouched...Dan went the James cowls. -LOTS of books including many of Tony B's books....some still have the shrink wrap on them and ALL of them are in perfect condition. If you are interested in any of the books let me know and I can make a list....I put in 3 13+hr days on it so far and haven't had time to make a list. Obviously I'll have to but I'm just letting you know that there are a LOT of quality aviation releted 'reading' and 'how to' books. -King IFR package in carry case. Lots of books and DVDS....just glanced at it so that's all I know about it right now. -Brand new (used once is my guess) Intercomp Racing scales. Dan didn't even pull the plastic off the bases. http://tinyurl.com/2tpyzx -'The Claw' tie down system. I'd like to say that is was 'new in the box' but I saw a couple of blades of grass in there and a couple of 'marks' on the one of the yellow powdercoated anchors so they are 'almost new'. -new heater/blower that Dan had for the Suby engine in the RV10. -overhead console for the RV10 -armrest console for the RV10. -huge (maybe 20 gallon) square (remote type) fiberglass fuel tank with cap/vent/etc.....you know Dan....he wanted to fly the RV10 non stop to California and back :^). The tank is obviously new. -I also have Dan's custom made (his own invention AFAIK) RV10 door lock system for the factory outside door handles. They are powdercoated red and have locks on them (2 ea). You'll have to 'remove' the locks and get your own as I don't have any keys. They are one of kind and a very neat idea for the factory locks...I like the factory handles better than the aftermarket and Dan was going to make me a set but we never got around to it since I sold my RV10. I may call one of the vendors to see if they want to copy Dan's idea after checking with Trish. There is more but that's off the top of my head to see if there was any interest. I can (and will) provide any/all details on any of the stuff....again....this post was just to get the word out to you guys. I'm NOT putting prices on anything...it was Dan's and the money goes to Trish so you offer what ever it's worth to you. I figure if you are interested then you have an idea of the value. If you want it then make me an offer and we'll go from there. All checks can be made out to Trish and you pay your own shipping. Rick at the Buffalo Farm - -Oh yea...my little Red Haired Wifey reminded me that I have an 'assortment' of David Clark and Lightspeed ANR headsets that I've collected if anyone is interested let me know...again...these are mine and not part of Dan's stuff. __._,_.___ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 2/10/2008 12:21 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale
Date: Feb 11, 2008
rickgray(at)roadrunner.com From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Britton Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:50 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale What is Rick's e-mail??? ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 5:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: FW: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale Contact Rick Gray if you have any interest. From: OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:37 PM Subject: [OhioValleyRVators] Dan's tools and stuff for sale Hi Gang, Wow....Danno' had a LOT OF STUFF!! As you know Dan bought nothing but the best...along with all the 'bells and whistles'. I picked up all of his airplane stuff on Thursday (13hrs)....got it 'semi' organized on Friday (13hrs)....and it was picked up on Saturday (another long day :^)). Jimmy B. who I took for a ride and many of you met a couple months ago (and, who ordered the entire RV7 QB from Van) is the proud new owner of Dan's very lightly used drill press, DRDT dimpler, brand new C' frame dimpler, big time fancy smancy Daniels Mil Spec Crimper, pneumatic squeezer(s), band saw, 4" belt sander....etc etc etc etc etc etc...you get the message. I'm really glad it all went to one place....and especially to Jim (I like to call him 'Jimmy' :^). I figure I'll get to 'use' these tools whenever I'm over at Jim's place helping him pound rivets so I couldn't be happier!! Oh yea...I bought a few things for myself....I wanted something that would remind me of Dan everytime I used it! OK...that said...there are a few items left over....I'll be posting them on Doug's site tomorrow or the next day but I said I'd mention them here 1st.....so I am :^). Dan loved this group and I hope it goes to folks from the group....if not...'it is what it is'. -Brand New in the box never used Lightspeed Thirty Three 'G' headsets with the Lemo Power plugs....2 sets...Dan had bought these for the kids. Lightspeed will change them to 'standard' jacks if needed. -Brand New never used RV10 Cabin cover...has Dan's N number on it in what appears to be vinyl. It looks like it will come off with a heat gun but I'm NOT going to touch it. It's great big hefty top quality cover that is in a heavy duty soft case. I can pull it out and see who made it you need me to. -Untouched RV10 spinner kit....no hardware but I can provide it if desired....I sorted all of Dan's leftover hardware into my bins as I felt it was the best place for it. -'Used' Flightcom Denali ANR headset (blue) that shows normal wear. No paperwork or bag or anything. I tried it on at the house and the ANR worked with the batteries that were in the case. -RV10 upper and lower cowls. Untouched...Dan went the James cowls. -LOTS of books including many of Tony B's books....some still have the shrink wrap on them and ALL of them are in perfect condition. If you are interested in any of the books let me know and I can make a list....I put in 3 13+hr days on it so far and haven't had time to make a list. Obviously I'll have to but I'm just letting you know that there are a LOT of quality aviation releted 'reading' and 'how to' books. -King IFR package in carry case. Lots of books and DVDS....just glanced at it so that's all I know about it right now. -Brand new (used once is my guess) Intercomp Racing scales. Dan didn't even pull the plastic off the bases. http://tinyurl.com/2tpyzx -'The Claw' tie down system. I'd like to say that is was 'new in the box' but I saw a couple of blades of grass in there and a couple of 'marks' on the one of the yellow powdercoated anchors so they are 'almost new'. -new heater/blower that Dan had for the Suby engine in the RV10. -overhead console for the RV10 -armrest console for the RV10. -huge (maybe 20 gallon) square (remote type) fiberglass fuel tank with cap/vent/etc.....you know Dan....he wanted to fly the RV10 non stop to California and back :^). The tank is obviously new. -I also have Dan's custom made (his own invention AFAIK) RV10 door lock system for the factory outside door handles. They are powdercoated red and have locks on them (2 ea). You'll have to 'remove' the locks and get your own as I don't have any keys. They are one of kind and a very neat idea for the factory locks...I like the factory handles better than the aftermarket and Dan was going to make me a set but we never got around to it since I sold my RV10. I may call one of the vendors to see if they want to copy Dan's idea after checking with Trish. There is more but that's off the top of my head to see if there was any interest. I can (and will) provide any/all details on any of the stuff....again....this post was just to get the word out to you guys. I'm NOT putting prices on anything...it was Dan's and the money goes to Trish so you offer what ever it's worth to you. I figure if you are interested then you have an idea of the value. If you want it then make me an offer and we'll go from there. All checks can be made out to Trish and you pay your own shipping. Rick at the Buffalo Farm - -Oh yea...my little Red Haired Wifey reminded me that I have an 'assortment' of David Clark and Lightspeed ANR headsets that I've collected if anyone is interested let me know...again...these are mine and not part of Dan's stuff. __._,_.___ href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c _____ Release Date: 2/10/2008 12:21 PM __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2864 (20080211) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
From: "nick(at)nleonard.com" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Feb 11, 2008
The pictures from the class are great, especially of the windows. Can someone please answer a couple of questions? 1) What adhesive was used for bonding the windows to the frame? 2) There appears to be a black trim of some sort around the outside of the window. What is it and what was the process to install it? I have been struggling with this process since the Weld-On seems to be a good adhesive but a little too hard to keep from cracking in the seams. All replies are appreciated. Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163502#163502 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: V Speeds
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Anybody that thinks that any of us should be going out and flying a test regime to determine our own Va, Vfe and Vne should seriously rethink their position. These are design limits! I have to believe that the early responses were people assuming the request was simply for stall speeds. All EFIS systems require entry of the "arc limits" (just like a simple mechanical ASI) so the information can be displayed. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163507#163507 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: V Speeds
Date: Feb 11, 2008
I can just feel the love Gary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:40 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds In a message dated 2/10/2008 7:04:07 PM Central Standard Time, speckter(at)comcast.net writes: I don't comment often, but taking off on the first flight without setting the various speeds into your EFIS could easily make it your last flight I sort of hope that most builders flying skill are a little better than that...if you need to fly by numbers then you may not want to be the test pilot until you buildup some feel skills to test flight a new plane. Sure you may have some surprise, but for goodness sake get some air under you and use a longer runway than you think you'll need until you've got the feel of the plane. Who knows that any of the instruments may be accure on your first but you should be able to fly the plane by feel and touch. You may need to borrow a good handheld GPS that will give you some back up numbers such as a Garmin 396/496...but don't get too bogged down in the screens and forget to fly the plane...these wiz bang devices are great but you've only got a few things to consider....airspeed, attitude and altitude. _____ Who's never won? Biggest <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000 0002548> Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Great, thanks you all for your advice! Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163515#163515 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail
All: I have had several requests to repost my elevator trim investigation from December 2006. Four or five builders have called since the original post asking about my confidence level and other questions and they all said they would follow the measurements below. As I received no feedback my assumption is that all is well. Additionally, the two RV-10's at WVI use the following settings with no issues. The key idea is load the plane with light people in the rear seats, add approximately 60 lbs of baggage, run the plane up to cruise and look for the twisted condition. Keep this problem as a possibility in your mind until you rule it out. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I went through this issue with Vans couple of months ago hoping for a plans revision or service bulletin but those folks seem to be busy in other areas - but I believe it to be important and want to share my findings. I setup my elevator tabs per the instructions with both left and right 35 degrees below trail position when the servo is at the full up position. It is possible to meet this spec by making adjustments at the servo end of the cable. During my first cross country I happened to look back at the tail and saw it was twisted. The elevator counter weight was above the horizontal stablizer on one side and below on the other. This bothered me more than a little as the forces would need to be high to cause this twist. I had not noticed this during my test flights because I now had luggage in the back and needed more down trim. After a lot of measurements I determined that the problem was I followed the instructions. If you begin with both elevator trim surfaces down at exactly 35 degrees the port side will never rise to trail position do to the cam action of the two actuators. Yet, the starboard will rise .75 inch above trail causing the twist. At a minimum effort, all flying RV-10s should check for this condition. The fix is easy. Highly recommend that you set the trim as follows: 1. Run the trim servo to full nose up. 2. Set the starboard trim tab trailing edge to 3 inches below elevator trailing edge. 3. Run the starboard trim tab to trail. 4. Set the port trim tab to trail. Using these settings you will be able to trim out all pitch forces during final with the CG forward. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at)yahoo.com N939SB, flying straight --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin
top
Date: Feb 11, 2008
Hi Ben, Sorry for the belated response. I've been trying to dig up the card the blades were packaged in so I knew the 'toothings' of the blades I used. The markings on the blade have worn off so I wasn't sure. But I finally found it. At Dave's class I believe they used 24T. I used the 24T with the tapered tip for any rounded cuts like along the windshield flange. It cut well, but dulled rather quickly. I could only use it for maybe 2 sections before I had to swap. I used the 32T non-tapered tip blade for the straight runs like the bottom flange underneath the rear windows. That blade seemed to cut better than the 24T and also seemed to last longer. Not sure if that was due to technique or the section I was cutting, but that's what I recall. I wanted to give the 18T a little try, but ran out of cabin to cut before I got around to it. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 8:05 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top Patrick thanks for the write up. Which body saw blades did you find worked best fine or coarse tooth? -Ben Westfall #40579 / N109LB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 1:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top On mine, the scribe lines were very unreliable. The scribes on the cabin bottom flange under the rear windows varied from 1 1/8" to 7/8" (plans specify 3/4")and were extremely wavy with dual scribe lines overlapping and crossing when they started over. I re-marked according to dimensions in the plans. I did not finish the fitting yet, but the initial cuts were definitely too large to fit. The door jams weren't anywhere close to fitting to the fuselage. I've been waiting until I had enough time to carefully work on the fit. As for that magic mini Makita belt sander ( http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9031 ), when I got home from the Watsonville class I searched all the local places for one, but no one carried it. I ended up using a standard electric hand held Makita 3x18 belt sander which I already had: http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9910 (have lots of belts, they go quick, I found the more expensive blue belts last much much longer than the standard brown ones and would recommend them) That worked great. To get clean corners I used the die grinder sanding drum kit from Avery: http://www.averytools.com/pc-924-80-3m-rubber-expanding-sanding-drums-and-ba nds-kit.aspx For the actual cutting I used this saw from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91753 It worked great aside from running through blades quickly. I ran out but was able to find a blade pack at a local home depot that worked and was able to soldier on to completion: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098704 That combination of tools worked perfectly for me. I'm glad I didn't spend the $250 on that mini-Makita. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
Date: Feb 12, 2008
Hi Nick, I believe the bonding agent Dave used for the rear windows (and possibly the doors? I can't remember, the doors were open and up overhead for most of the class) is GE Silpruf. I think the process is one used on Glasairs (but I'm no expert in this and may be mistaken). The rear windows were bonded with Silpruf. The gap around the windows was filled with black silicone (possibly Silpruf, again memory is already fading.) And I think the black border you see on the rear windows is just the black Silpruf behind the window. The interesting thing about the technique is that you are supposed to be able to remove the window at a later date should you ever need. It looks pretty darn good. The front windscreen was not done with this process. I believe it was the traditional process as described in the plans with a glass tape around the edge to stave off any seams/cracks presenting in the future. It seemed pretty clear cut at the class, but it's already getting fuzzy. Dave or someone else from the class can probably correct me if I'm wrong. There is one thing from the class I do remember with perfect clarity. Unfortunately it won't help: Don't cut brown foam with a hot wire! Hope it helps. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 / N690CT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nick(at)nleonard.com Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures The pictures from the class are great, especially of the windows. Can someone please answer a couple of questions? 1) What adhesive was used for bonding the windows to the frame? 2) There appears to be a black trim of some sort around the outside of the window. What is it and what was the process to install it? I have been struggling with this process since the Weld-On seems to be a good adhesive but a little too hard to keep from cracking in the seams. All replies are appreciated. Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163502#163502 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: V speeds
Date: Feb 12, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Testing Vne reminds me of Calvin in the comic Calvin & Hobbes, when he asks his dad how they test weight limits on bridges: Calvin: How do they know the load limit on bridges, Dad? Dad: They drive bigger and bigger trucks over the bridge until it breaks. Then they weigh the last truck and rebuild the bridge. Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail
Date: Feb 12, 2008
Bill, Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I must have missed the origina l post, but from what you have explained, this topic in my opinion is an ex tremely important one. I will do a personal archive on this. How many defferent people at Vans did you speak with? "Or was it a simple, well it flys doesn't it, my suggestion, keep flying." I am not fully understanding your setting suggestions. You say run the righ t servo to full nose up(Back). Then re-set the tab to 3" below trail. Then you say run the right servo to trail and set the left tab to trail. I ask t he question..."If we have run the right servo to full up(Back), then reset the tab 3" below trail, where do we get the movement to run the tab back to trail if we have already gone to full up(servo arm Back) for the initial s etting. Do we need more clarification on which structure we wnat up, down, nose up or nose down?? Thanks, JOhn G. 409 Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:51:52 -0800From: billderou(at)yahoo.comSubject: RV10 -List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tailTo: rv10-list@matron ics.com All: I have had several requests to repost my elevator trim investigation from D ecember 2006. Four or five builders have called since the original post asking about my c onfidence level and other questions and they all said they would follow the measurements below. As I received no feedback my assumption is that all is well. Additionally, the two RV-10's at WVI use the following settings with no issues. The key idea is load the plane with light people in the rear seats, add app roximately 60 lbs of baggage, run the plane up to cruise and look for the t wisted condition. Keep this problem as a possibility in your mind until you rule it out. Bill --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- I went through this issue with Vans couple of months ago hoping for a plans revisionor service bulletin but those folks seem to be busy in other areas - butI believe it to be important and want to share my findings. I set up my elevator tabs per the instructions with both left and right 35 degree sbelow trail position when the servo is at the full up position. It is poss ibleto meet this spec by making adjustments at the servo end of the cable. During my first cross country I happened to look back at the tail and s aw itwas twisted. The elevator counter weight was above the horizontal stab lizer onone side and below on the other. This bothered me more than a littl e as the forceswould need to be high to cause this twist. I had not noticed this duringmy test flights because I now had luggage in the back and neede d more down trim.After a lot of measurements I determined that the problem was I followed theinstructions. If you begin with both elevator trim surfac es down at exactly35 degrees the port side will never rise to trail positio n do to the cam actionof the two actuators. Yet, the starboard will rise .7 5 inch above trail causingthe twist. At a minimum effort, all flying RV -10s should check for this condition. The fixis easy. Highly recommend that you set the trim as follows: 1. Run the trim servo to full nose up. 2. Set the starboard trim tab trailing edge to 3 inches below elevator tra ilingedge. 3. Run the starboard trim tab to trail. 4. Set the port trim t ab to trail. Using these settings you will be able to trim out all pitc h forces during finalwith the CG forward. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at )yahoo.com N939SB, flying straight ------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail
John- Talking about nose up/down and elevator trim up/down could be causing the confusion since they move opposite to one another. Its also important to recognize when the positioning is created by the servo end travel or the trim trailing edge. Another problem causing confusion is communicating in degrees. I do not believe that when Van says "-35 degrees" that this setting can be accurately repeated for X hundred aircraft, nor do I believe that Vans two factory RV-10's are set to -35 degrees. All of my settings and conclusions were drawn from doing the Trig and cutting out accurate triangles. This is also why I specified a vertical 3" of measurement to eliminate the errors. So - lets take another run at it: 1. Run the trim servo to its end point where the right (starboard) elevator trim tab is full down. Full down is determined by the servo stopping and not the trim tab jamming. 2. Set the trim tab trailing edge to 3" vertically below and normal to the elevator trailing edge. 3. Get someone else to run the trim servo switch and have them slowly raise the right elevator trim tab until it exactly aligns with the elevator trailing edge. This is not the end of the servo run - it is determined by the trailing edges matching. 4. Set the left (port) elevator trim tab trailing edge to align with the elevator trailing edge. Its very simple and much easier than working with the -35 degree spec for each surface. I did communicate and was supported by Vans engineering on this subject. However, I believe the priority of the RV-12 got in the way of following this issue to its conclusion. Bill John Gonzalez wrote: .hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } Bill, Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I must have missed the original post, but from what you have explained, this topic in my opinion is an extremely important one. I will do a personal archive on this. How many defferent people at Vans did you speak with? "Or was it a simple, well it flys doesn't it, my suggestion, keep flying." I am not fully understanding your setting suggestions. You say run the right servo to full nose up(Back). Then re-set the tab to 3" below trail. Then you say run the right servo to trail and set the left tab to trail. I ask the question..."If we have run the right servo to full up(Back), then reset the tab 3" below trail, where do we get the movement to run the tab back to trail if we have already gone to full up(servo arm Back) for the initial setting. Do we need more clarification on which structure we wnat up, down, nose up or nose down?? Thanks, JOhn G. 409 --------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:51:52 -0800 From: billderou(at)yahoo.com Subject: RV10-List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail All: I have had several requests to repost my elevator trim investigation from December 2006. Four or five builders have called since the original post asking about my confidence level and other questions and they all said they would follow the measurements below. As I received no feedback my assumption is that all is well. Additionally, the two RV-10's at WVI use the following settings with no issues. The key idea is load the plane with light people in the rear seats, add approximately 60 lbs of baggage, run the plane up to cruise and look for the twisted condition. Keep this problem as a possibility in your mind until you rule it out. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I went through this issue with Vans couple of months ago hoping for a plans revision or service bulletin but those folks seem to be busy in other areas - but I believe it to be important and want to share my findings. I setup my elevator tabs per the instructions with both left and right 35 degrees below trail position when the servo is at the full up position. It is possible to meet this spec by making adjustments at the servo end of the cable. During my first cross country I happened to look back at the tail and saw it was twisted. The elevator counter weight was above the horizontal stablizer on one side and below on the other. This bothered me more than a little as the forces would need to be high to cause this twist. I had not noticed this during my test flights because I now had luggage in the back and needed more down trim. After a lot of measurements I determined that the problem was I followed the instructions. If you begin with both elevator trim surfaces down at exactly 35 degrees the port side will never rise to trail position do to the cam action of the two actuators. Yet, the starboard will rise .75 inch above trail causing the twist. At a minimum effort, all flying RV-10s should check for this condition. The fix is easy. Highly recommend that you set the trim as follows: 1. Run the trim servo to full nose up. 2. Set the starboard trim tab trailing edge to 3 inches below elevator trailing edge. 3. Run the starboard trim tab to trail. 4. Set the port trim tab to trail. Using these settings you will be able to trim out all pitch forces during final with the CG forward. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at)yahoo.com N939SB, flying straight --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail
Date: Feb 12, 2008
Excellent, thanks for the clarification. JOhn G. 409 Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 10:55:08 -0800From: billderou(at)yahoo.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tailTo: rv10-list@ma tronics.com John- Talking about nose up/down and elevator trim up/down could be causing the c onfusion since they move opposite to one another. Its also important to rec ognize when the positioning is created by the servo end travel or the trim trailing edge. Another problem causing confusion is communicating in degrees. I do not bel ieve that when Van says "-35 degrees" that this setting can be accurately r epeated for X hundred aircraft, nor do I believe that Vans two factory RV-1 0's are set to -35 degrees. All of my settings and conclusions were drawn f rom doing the Trig and cutting out accurate triangles. This is also why I s pecified a vertical 3" of measurement to eliminate the errors. So - lets take another run at it: 1. Run the trim servo to its end point where the right (starboard) elevator trim tab is full down. Full down is determined by the servo stopping and n ot the trim tab jamming. 2. Set the trim tab trailing edge to 3" vertically below and normal to the elevator trailing edge. 3. Get someone else to run the trim servo switch and have them slowly raise the right elevator trim tab until it exactly aligns with the elevator trai ling edge. This is not the end of the servo run - it is determined by the t railing edges matching. 4. Set the left (port) elevator trim tab trailing edge to align with the el evator trailing edge. Its very simple and much easier than working with the -35 degree spec for e ach surface. I did communicate and was supported by Vans engineering on this subject. Ho wever, I believe the priority of the RV-12 got in the way of following this issue to its conclusion. Bill John Gonzalez wrote: Bill, Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I must have missed the o riginal post, but from what you have explained, this topic in my opinion is an extremely important one. I will do a personal archive on this. How many defferent people at Vans did you speak with? "Or was it a simple, well it flys doesn't it, my suggestion, keep flying." I am not fully understanding your setting suggestions. You say run the right servo to full nose up(Back) . Then re-set the tab to 3" below trail. Then you say run the right servo t o trail and set the left tab to trail. I ask the question..."If we have run the right servo to full up(Back), then reset the tab 3" below trail, where do we get the movement to run the tab back to trail if we have already gon e to full up(servo arm Back) for the initial setting. Do we need more clari fication on which structure we wnat up, down, nose up or nose down?? Thank s, JOhn G. 409 Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:51:52 -0800From: billderou(at)yahoo.comSubject: RV10 -List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tailTo: rv10-list@matron ics.com All: I have had several requests to repost my elevator trim investigation from D ecember 2006. Four or five builders have called since the original post asking about my c onfidence level and other questions and they all said they would follow the measurements below. As I received no feedback my assumption is that all is well. Additionally, the two RV-10's at WVI use the following settings with no issues. The key idea is load the plane with light people in the rear seats, add app roximately 60 lbs of baggage, run the plane up to cruise and look for the t wisted condition. Keep this problem as a possibility in your mind until you rule it out. Bill --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- I went through this issue with Vans couple of months ago hoping for a plans revisionor service bulletin but those folks seem to be busy in other areas - butI believe it to be important and want to share my findings. I set up my elevator tabs per the instructions with both left and right 35 degree sbelow trail position when the servo is at the full up position. It is poss ibleto meet this spec by making adjustments at the servo end of the cable. During my first cross country I happened to look back at the tail and s aw itwas twisted. The elevator counter weight was above the horizontal stab lizer onone side and below on the other. This bothered me more than a littl e as the forceswould need to be high to cause this twist. I had not noticed this duringmy test flights because I now had luggage in the back and neede d more down trim.After a lot of measurements I determined that the problem was I followed theinstructions. If you begin with both elevator trim surfac es down at exactly35 degrees the port side will never rise to trail positio n do to the cam actionof the two actuators. Yet, the starboard will rise .7 5 inch above trail causingthe twist. At a minimum effort, all flying RV -10s should check for this condition. The fixis easy. Highly recommend that you set the trim as follows: 1. Run the trim servo to full nose up. 2. Set the starboard trim tab trailing edge to 3 inches below elevator tra ilingedge. 3. Run the starboard trim tab to trail. 4. Set the port trim t ab to trail. Using these settings you will be able to trim out all pitc h forces during finalwith the CG forward. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at )yahoo.com N939SB, flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)
Date: Feb 12, 2008
The rear and door windows in N921AC are installed with an adhesive called SilPruf. It's very thick (viscous) silicone material from GE. (http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10412_3.pdf). SilPruf comes in several colors and is avialable from The advantages to this method over Weld On are that it leaves a nice looking trim ring around the exterior of the window, it prevents the cracking along the edge of the bond, and it would allow for the windows to be removed and replaced in the future without repainting the area around the window. BUT it's a bit of work. We learned this technique from the GlaStar community. It's a little involved and it takes several curing cycles, but the results are really nice. AirLInk has a video describing the process: http://mall.igfarm.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=airlinktech& Product_Code=101-0101-0000 My description is a bit rushed and I may have left part of it out. Please proofread it and let me know so we have a good record of the process. It's a logical process and if something is missing I think you'll realize it. I wish I had some pictures but I hope the video will help. One pointer here: the video references a completely separate, alternative method using vinyl ester resin. Vinyl ester will not bond well to the top or doors of the RV-10. You could just substitute epoxy for vinyl ester if you decide the SilPruf is too much work. Please get in touch if I can clarify this. I suspect there will be some questions. Here are the steps we followed. I haven't watched the video lately so the order may be a little different: 1) Mask the outside of the window. No sealant ever touches the outside surface. Trim the window to the airframe so it has a 1/8" gap between the window and the OD of the joggle. 2) Mask the inside of the window except for the edge. Leave an unmasked margin 1/16" wider than the edge of the joggle. Apply another layer of thin masking tape (we used fine line tape from an autobody store) to the edge of the margin. This layer will be removed before the material cures. 3) Prep the unmasked surface lightly with a cloth moistened with acetone to clean and degrease it. 4) Apply a very thin layer of SilPruf to the unmasked margin. The purpose of this step is to create the cosmetic "mask" that is seen from the outside. Remove the fine line tape. Let the mask cure for 24 hours minimum. 5) While the mask is curing, lay out a bead about 18" long by 1/4" diameter of SilPruf on some wax paper. It will be used later in the process. It doesn't have to be particularly uniform-just a line of SilPruf. 6) Trial fit the window into the joggle. Drill #40 cleco holes every 2" into the bottom of the groove between the window and the OD of the joggle. 7) Make a bunch of wooden spacers out of inch-long of popsicle stick or similar. Drill a #40 hole in the middle of each spacer. Use the spacers under a cleco to clamp the window into the joggle. At this point the window will be "below grade" of the outside skin. 8) Now cut the bead of SilPruf into thin wafers and shim the window out so it is at or slightly above grade. Place one wafer approximately at each cleco under the cosmetic mask. The wood strips will bridge from the fuse to the window, and the cleco should apply enough pressure to slightly compress each wafer. You will vary the thickness of each wafer to get the window flush with the outer skin. Prep the joggle, then glue the wafers to the joggle with SilPruf and let them cure. They have to be firmly affixed so that they stay in place during the final installation. If they slip around, the window will fall below grade and all the sealant will get squeezed out by the cleco pressure. 9) Mask the inside and outside of the fuselage and apply another fine line mask to the inside of the window. 10) Apply the SilPruf to the joggle, all around the wafers. Be careful not to break the wafers off. 11) Put the window back in place and secure it with the clecos and wood strips. Scoop as much as possible out of the groove between the window and the joggle. Some material will remain under the wooden spacers. Those sections will be removed later. 12) Remove the fine line mask from the inside. Let the whole thing cure for at least 24 hours. 13) Remove all the masking from the inside, and clean up any drips. If you catch them before they cure, that's even better. 14) Remove the clecos and strips. Remove the SilPruf from the area under the strips with a pick, knife, chisel, whatever works. There should be a nice uniform groove between the edge of the window and the airframe. Kind of a little moat. 15) Fast forward to final painting of the plane. Paint the body color right up to the edge of the groove, then paint over that with a very thin line of glossy paint that matches the color of the SilPruf. Ours is black, about 1/16" to 1/8" outboard of the OD of the joggle. 16) Then mask halfway onto the glossy paint and the entire plastic outer surface of the window. Apply a bead of SilPruf into the groove to fill it up. Smooth it up with a squeegee or your favorite technique, then remove all the masking tape before the SilPruf cures. That should do it. Fire away. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nick(at)nleonard.com Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures The pictures from the class are great, especially of the windows. Can someone please answer a couple of questions? 1) What adhesive was used for bonding the windows to the frame? 2) There appears to be a black trim of some sort around the outside of the window. What is it and what was the process to install it? I have been struggling with this process since the Weld-On seems to be a good adhesive but a little too hard to keep from cracking in the seams. All replies are appreciated. Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163502#163502 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail
Bill Thanks for this info. I have a folder where I store all these emails that have key info for when I get further on in the kit. You just gotta love this list and all who support it. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: February-12-08 11:55 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail John- Talking about nose up/down and elevator trim up/down could be causing the confusion since they move opposite to one another. Its also important to recognize when the positioning is created by the servo end travel or the trim trailing edge. Another problem causing confusion is communicating in degrees. I do not believe that when Van says "-35 degrees" that this setting can be accurately repeated for X hundred aircraft, nor do I believe that Vans two factory RV-10's are set to -35 degrees. All of my settings and conclusions were drawn from doing the Trig and cutting out accurate triangles. This is also why I specified a vertical 3" of measurement to eliminate the errors. So - lets take another run at it: 1. Run the trim servo to its end point where the right (starboard) elevator trim tab is full down. Full down is determined by the servo stopping and not the trim tab jamming. 2. Set the trim tab trailing edge to 3" vertically below and normal to the elevator trailing edge. 3. Get someone else to run the trim servo switch and have them slowly raise the right elevator trim tab until it exactly aligns with the elevator trailing edge. This is not the end of the servo run - it is determined by the trailing edges matching. 4. Set the left (port) elevator trim tab trailing edge to align with the elevator trailing edge. Its very simple and much easier than working with the -35 degree spec for each surface. I did communicate and was supported by Vans engineering on this subject. However, I believe the priority of the RV-12 got in the way of following this issue to its conclusion. Bill John Gonzalez wrote: Bill, Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I must have missed the original post, but from what you have explained, this topic in my opinion is an extremely important one. I will do a personal archive on this. How many defferent people at Vans did you speak with? "Or was it a simple, well it flys doesn't it, my suggestion, keep flying." I am not fully understanding your setting suggestions. You say run the right servo to full nose up(Back). Then re-set the tab to 3" below trail. Then you say run the right servo to trail and set the left tab to trail. I ask the question..."If we have run the right servo to full up(Back), then reset the tab 3" below trail, where do we get the movement to run the tab back to trail if we have already gone to full up(servo arm Back) for the initial setting. Do we need more clarification on which structure we wnat up, down, nose up or nose down?? Thanks, JOhn G. 409 _____ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:51:52 -0800 From: billderou(at)yahoo.com Subject: RV10-List: alternate elevator trim settings or twisted tail All: I have had several requests to repost my elevator trim investigation from December 2006. Four or five builders have called since the original post asking about my confidence level and other questions and they all said they would follow the measurements below. As I received no feedback my assumption is that all is well. Additionally, the two RV-10's at WVI use the following settings with no issues. The key idea is load the plane with light people in the rear seats, add approximately 60 lbs of baggage, run the plane up to cruise and look for the twisted condition. Keep this problem as a possibility in your mind until you rule it out. Bill ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------- I went through this issue with Vans couple of months ago hoping for a plans revision or service bulletin but those folks seem to be busy in other areas - but I believe it to be important and want to share my findings. I setup my elevator tabs per the instructions with both left and right 35 degrees below trail position when the servo is at the full up position. It is possible to meet this spec by making adjustments at the servo end of the cable. During my first cross country I happened to look back at the tail and saw it was twisted. The elevator counter weight was above the horizontal stablizer on one side and below on the other. This bothered me more than a little as the forces would need to be high to cause this twist. I had not noticed this during my test flights because I now had luggage in the back and needed more down trim. After a lot of measurements I determined that the problem was I followed the instructions. If you begin with both elevator trim surfaces down at exactly 35 degrees the port side will never rise to trail position do to the cam action of the two actuators. Yet, the starboard will rise .75 inch above trail causing the twist. At a minimum effort, all flying RV-10s should check for this condition. The fix is easy. Highly recommend that you set the trim as follows: 1. Run the trim servo to full nose up. 2. Set the starboard trim tab trailing edge to 3 inches below elevator trailing edge. 3. Run the starboard trim tab to trail. 4. Set the port trim tab to trail. Using these settings you will be able to trim out all pitch forces during final with the CG forward. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at) <http://yahoo.com/> yahoo.com N939SB, flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2008
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)
Dave, Have you compared the holding power of SilPruf to that of WeldOn? Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction Dave Saylor wrote: > > The rear and door windows in N921AC are installed with an adhesive called > SilPruf. It's very thick (viscous) silicone material from GE. > (http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10412_3.pdf). SilPruf comes > in several colors and is avialable from > > The advantages to this method over Weld On are that it leaves a nice looking > trim ring around the exterior of the window, it prevents the cracking along > the edge of the bond, and it would allow for the windows to be removed and > replaced in the future without repainting the area around the window. BUT > it's a bit of work. > > We learned this technique from the GlaStar community. It's a little > involved and it takes several curing cycles, but the results are really > nice. AirLInk has a video describing the process: > > http://mall.igfarm.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=airlinktech& > Product_Code=101-0101-0000 > > My description is a bit rushed and I may have left part of it out. Please > proofread it and let me know so we have a good record of the process. It's > a logical process and if something is missing I think you'll realize it. I > wish I had some pictures but I hope the video will help. One pointer here: > the video references a completely separate, alternative method using vinyl > ester resin. Vinyl ester will not bond well to the top or doors of the > RV-10. You could just substitute epoxy for vinyl ester if you decide the > SilPruf is too much work. > > Please get in touch if I can clarify this. I suspect there will be some > questions. > > Here are the steps we followed. I haven't watched the video lately so the > order may be a little different: > > 1) Mask the outside of the window. No sealant ever touches the outside > surface. Trim the window to the airframe so it has a 1/8" gap between the > window and the OD of the joggle. > > 2) Mask the inside of the window except for the edge. Leave an > unmasked margin 1/16" wider than the edge of the joggle. Apply another > layer of thin masking tape (we used fine line tape from an autobody store) > to the edge of the margin. This layer will be removed before the material > cures. > > 3) Prep the unmasked surface lightly with a cloth moistened with > acetone to clean and degrease it. > > 4) Apply a very thin layer of SilPruf to the unmasked margin. The > purpose of this step is to create the cosmetic "mask" that is seen from the > outside. Remove the fine line tape. Let the mask cure for 24 hours > minimum. > > 5) While the mask is curing, lay out a bead about 18" long by 1/4" > diameter of SilPruf on some wax paper. It will be used later in the > process. It doesn't have to be particularly uniform-just a line of SilPruf. > > 6) Trial fit the window into the joggle. Drill #40 cleco holes every > 2" into the bottom of the groove between the window and the OD of the > joggle. > > 7) Make a bunch of wooden spacers out of inch-long of popsicle stick or > similar. Drill a #40 hole in the middle of each spacer. Use the spacers > under a cleco to clamp the window into the joggle. At this point the window > will be "below grade" of the outside skin. > > 8) Now cut the bead of SilPruf into thin wafers and shim the window out > so it is at or slightly above grade. Place one wafer approximately at each > cleco under the cosmetic mask. The wood strips will bridge from the fuse to > the window, and the cleco should apply enough pressure to slightly compress > each wafer. You will vary the thickness of each wafer to get the window > flush with the outer skin. Prep the joggle, then glue the wafers to the > joggle with SilPruf and let them cure. They have to be firmly affixed so > that they stay in place during the final installation. If they slip around, > the window will fall below grade and all the sealant will get squeezed out > by the cleco pressure. > > 9) Mask the inside and outside of the fuselage and apply another fine > line mask to the inside of the window. > > 10) Apply the SilPruf to the joggle, all around the wafers. Be > careful not to break the wafers off. > > 11) Put the window back in place and secure it with the clecos and > wood strips. Scoop as much as possible out of the groove between the > window and the joggle. Some material will remain under the wooden spacers. > Those sections will be removed later. > > 12) Remove the fine line mask from the inside. Let the whole thing > cure for at least 24 hours. > > 13) Remove all the masking from the inside, and clean up any drips. > If you catch them before they cure, that's even better. > > 14) Remove the clecos and strips. Remove the SilPruf from the area > under the strips with a pick, knife, chisel, whatever works. There should > be a nice uniform groove between the edge of the window and the airframe. > Kind of a little moat. > > 15) Fast forward to final painting of the plane. Paint the body color > right up to the edge of the groove, then paint over that with a very thin > line of glossy paint that matches the color of the SilPruf. Ours is black, > about 1/16" to 1/8" outboard of the OD of the joggle. > > 16) Then mask halfway onto the glossy paint and the entire plastic > outer surface of the window. Apply a bead of SilPruf into the groove to > fill it up. Smooth it up with a squeegee or your favorite technique, then > remove all the masking tape before the SilPruf cures. > > That should do it. Fire away. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nick(at)nleonard.com > Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:01 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures > > > The pictures from the class are great, especially of the windows. Can > someone please answer a couple of questions? > > 1) What adhesive was used for bonding the windows to the frame? > 2) There appears to be a black trim of some sort around the outside of the > window. What is it and what was the process to install it? > > I have been struggling with this process since the Weld-On seems to be a > good adhesive but a little too hard to keep from cracking in the seams. > > All replies are appreciated. > > Nick > > -------- > Nick Leonard > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163502#163502 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)
Date: Feb 12, 2008
Nope. But I have seen it work very well in many other applications besides this one. The numbers say it would take a catastrophe to break the bond--thousands of pounds loading against the window--at which point the strength of the bond becomes a moot point. So, no, I haven't checked, but I still I trust the application. Also, it's a bit of an apples/oranges comparison because the SilPruf stretches so much further before breaking. That's what makes it nice for preventing the hairline cracks. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...) Dave, Have you compared the holding power of SilPruf to that of WeldOn? Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: O-540 C4B5
From: "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com>
Date: Feb 12, 2008
I looked at the engine spec sheet from Lycoming and it shows the weights and dimensions, HP, RPM, TBO for the various IO-540 models. It appears that the O-540-A and -B models are nearly exactly the same dimensions as the -D and -C models, and about 10 pounds lighter (minus FI system?). It also appears that this model (-B4B5 and -B1B5) is autogas STC-d. Would this be a viable/easy alternative for the RV-10, dimension and accessory-wise? -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163792#163792 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: O-540 C4B5
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
I used the B4B5 and used autofuel mix with good results.I did overhaul the engine and raised the compression to 9:1 so no more autofuel.It is a good fit and I found no particular problems. 728DD 180 hours -----Original Message----- From: ddnebert <doug(at)mapcontext.com> Sent: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 7:29 pm Subject: RV10-List: Re: O-540 C4B5 I looked at the engine spec sheet from Lycoming and it shows the weights and dimensions, HP, RPM, TBO for the various IO-540 models. It appears that the O-540-A and -B models are nearly exactly the same dimensions as the -D and -C models, and about 10 pounds lighter (minus FI system?). It also appears that this model (-B4B5 and -B1B5) is autogas STC-d. Would this be a viable/easy alternative for the RV-10, dimension and accessory-wise? -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163792#163792 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Silpruf Window installation
Dave; Thanks for the write up on the windows. It looks like a good product after reading the data sheet. Three questions. , one request. 1. how many tubes does one need for doing the 4 windows? 2. best price /supplier to purchase? 3. I couldn't get the link to work for the video. 4. could you provide a close up picture of the finished edge? Thanks. Fred Williams 40515 Starting door fit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)
Dave Many thanks for such a detailed post. Where I live it can go from -40F in winter to +90F in summer. Thermal expansion of joints around windows etc is an issue that I have been concerned about. On the strength of your recommendation, I have ordered the video and hope to put it to good use. Regards Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (Reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: February-12-08 4:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...) Nope. But I have seen it work very well in many other applications besides this one. The numbers say it would take a catastrophe to break the bond--thousands of pounds loading against the window--at which point the strength of the bond becomes a moot point. So, no, I haven't checked, but I still I trust the application. Also, it's a bit of an apples/oranges comparison because the SilPruf stretches so much further before breaking. That's what makes it nice for preventing the hairline cracks. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...) Dave, Have you compared the holding power of SilPruf to that of WeldOn? Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Silpruf Window installation
Hi Fred Here is the link in a smaller form: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9 Dave's link was broken by a line break in the text. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (Reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: February-13-08 7:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation Dave; Thanks for the write up on the windows. It looks like a good product after reading the data sheet. Three questions. , one request. 1. how many tubes does one need for doing the 4 windows? 2. best price /supplier to purchase? 3. I couldn't get the link to work for the video. 4. could you provide a close up picture of the finished edge? Thanks. Fred Williams 40515 Starting door fit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Silpruf Window installation
I ordered 4 10 oz tubes, $68 including shipping total. If I have any left there is my building buddy Mr. Kaufmann who will most likely claim my leftovers. From what I read on the instructions, I'll need at least one tube after paint. Here's the link I bought it from. http://www.nextag.com/silicone-sealant/search-html Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 6:57:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation Dave; Thanks for the write up on the windows. It looks like a good product after reading the data sheet. Three questions. , one request. 1. how many tubes does one need for doing the 4 windows? 2. best price /supplier to purchase? 3. I couldn't get the link to work for the video. 4. could you provide a close up picture of the finished edge? Thanks. Fred Williams 40515 Starting door fit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Silpruf Window installation
Date: Feb 13, 2008
Fred, We bought 5 tubes and used 3 1/2. The final step was done several months after the first, so one of the partially used tubes was wasted. I get SilPruf from a company called Lowry's in Hayward, CA: http://www.halowry.com. Late last year it was about $6/tube. Les posted a better link to the video in another message: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9 Here are some pictures. The black all blends together so one picture is edited and labled so you can see the different parts. Real lilfe looks more like the unlabled picture. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 6:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation --> Dave; Thanks for the write up on the windows. It looks like a good product after reading the data sheet. Three questions. , one request. 1. how many tubes does one need for doing the 4 windows? 2. best price /supplier to purchase? 3. I couldn't get the link to work for the video. 4. could you provide a close up picture of the finished edge? Thanks. Fred Williams 40515 Starting door fit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Silpruf window installation
Dave, Les and Rick. Thanks for the information and pics. Zooming in on the pics gives enough detail to see how the bead lines up on the outside. I think with your help I can make it look good. I ordered 4 tubes from Technology LK for $67. Now if I could quit this day job and get back to work. How did they ever build an airplane before the internet? Musta been real men and real airplanes. Thanks Fred Williams ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Silpruf Window installation
Date: Feb 13, 2008
Dave, I would also like to throw in my thank you for sharing. This discussion has been centered around using SilPruf on the side windows. Did you also use it on the windscreen?Vern Smith (#324 lost some where bet ween the fuselage and finishing) > From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation> Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 09:41:31 -08 00> > Fred,> > We bought 5 tubes and used 3 1/2. The final step was done se veral months> after the first, so one of the partially used tubes was waste d.> > I get SilPruf from a company called Lowry's in Hayward, CA:> http://w ww.halowry.com. Late last year it was about $6/tube.> > Les posted a better link to the video in another message:> http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9> > Here a re some pictures. The black all blends together so one picture is> edited a nd labled so you can see the different parts. Real lilfe looks more> like t he unlabled picture.> > Dave Saylor> AirCrafters LLC> 140 Aviation Way> Wat sonville, CA > 831-722-9141> 831-750-0284 CL> www.AirCraftersLLC.com> > _________________________________________________________________ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo ur "fix". http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Silpruf Window installation
Date: Feb 13, 2008
Vern, I installed the windshield per the plans, then overlaid a thin fiberglass layup over the exposed bond at the joggle. The edge is painted gloss black to match the other windows. The windsheild could be installed with SilPruf but it would require quite a bit of rework in order to create a joggle along the bottom edge. I wasn't quite prepared to do that. Maybe next time. The results would be very similar to the other windows. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 11:53 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation Dave, I would also like to throw in my thank you for sharing. This discussion has been centered around using SilPruf on the side windows. Did you also use it on the windscreen? Vern Smith (#324 lost some where between the fuselage and finishing) _____ > From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Silpruf Window installation > Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 09:41:31 -0800 > > Fred, > > We bought 5 tubes and used 3 1/2. The final step was done several months > after the first, so one of the partially used tubes was wasted. > > I get SilPruf from a company called Lowry's in Hayward, CA: > http://www.halowry.com. Late last year it was about $6/tube. > > Les posted a better link to the video in another message: > http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9 > > Here are some pictures. The black all blends together so one picture is > edited and labled so you can see the different parts. Real lilfe looks more > like the unlabled picture. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > _____ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your HotmailR-get your "fix". Check it <http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx> out. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Duckworks with tip tanks
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2008
comment about moving the lights one bay in, on the Duckworks web page they suggest not moving it in. am i confused?? [Question] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163912#163912 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Shameless For-Profit Promotion of New RV-10 Products
Date: Feb 13, 2008
We've posted a few new products on our web site specifically for RV-10s: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm Please call or email with any questions! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Aircraft placards
Date: Feb 14, 2008
Someone recently gave me the name of a company that engraves placards etc. I needed a couple of items engraved for my center console. Anyway these guys do a first class job at what I think is a reasonable cost and they were very easy to work with and responsive. You might want take a look at their site if you have any needs for this. www.engravers.net Wayne Edgerton N602WT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Shameless For-Profit Promotion of New RV-10 Products
Date: Feb 14, 2008
I just got my trim controller from Stein and have a question that might be helpful to all. I got the air switch. It has a Pitot input and a Static input. Is there any overwhelming reason to plumb the static port into the aircraft system? Why not leave it open to the cabin pressure? Other than being off a few MPH from time to time would it make any big difference? Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Shameless For-Profit Promotion of New RV-10 Products We've posted a few new products on our web site specifically for RV-10s: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm Please call or email with any questions! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question
Date: Feb 14, 2008
The answer is YES, plumbing to static line is important, especially if you have your airplane tested for the pitot static test to fly IFR. The test equipment can ruin any piece of equipment that is only connected to one of the lines. The test draws a vacuum on both lines simulating a rise in altitude. With both lines (pitot and static) connected to the test rig the net differential pressure from pitot to static is near zero and everything is fine. However, with only one line connected the vacuum is drawn across any instrument connected to only one line. There's a great chance of ruining the instrument connected to only one line. I know first hand. I had to pay for the rebuild of my airspeed indicator when the pitot line got disconnected during the test! Bang. So please connect both lines to the Air Speed Switch! Bob Newman TCW Technologies. www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Feb 14, 2008
I'm going to use Koolmat on my RV-10, I'm planning on putting it on the firewall side for the following reasons. 1) The Silicon side of koolmat is quite impervious to oil and fluids. 2) Heat transfer is a function of three modes: Convection, Conduction and Radiation. Limiting heat transfer into the passanger compartment should best be accomplished by reducing each of these factors. Insulation on either side of the firewall will be effective at reducing conduction, (convection should not be an issue because there's no airflow over the firewall per se) However, Only by insulating the firewall side can we reduce the effects of radiation. The radiated heat of the engine and exhaust system will land on the firewall and heat the firewall. With insulation only on the cabin side, the firewall effectively is heated and re-radiates into the cabin. The insulation on the cabin side only slows the progress of heat flow into the cabin it doesn't prevent it from occuring. With insulation on the firewall side, the radiated energy cannot heat the firewall to begin with and therefore should provide less cabin heating. 3) Accoustically it should be quieter. For the same reasons as in # 2 for heat, accoustically it should be quiter if the firewall is not radiated with sound energy. Theoretically! will see in practice hopefully the end of this year. So those our my reasons for insulating the firewall side. note, I do plan on corrosion proofing the rivets on the firewall side before applying the koolmat. FWIW Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Bob: That's interesting and good to know. I was also planning on an airspeed switch and was wondering the same thing as Gary. Couple questions?? Do you have to install special ports for the equipment to hook up to or will it hook up to the pitot tube and static ports (two) as installed?? Does the system test an alternate static port operated from inside the cabin as well?? Do you know why TruTrak would say its fine to just vent the static port for their ADI to the cabin?? That instrument is usually a backup for IFR so one would think that TruTrak would expect to have the pitot/static systems tested. Thanks Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob-tcw To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 2:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question The answer is YES, plumbing to static line is important, especially if you have your airplane tested for the pitot static test to fly IFR. The test equipment can ruin any piece of equipment that is only connected to one of the lines. The test draws a vacuum on both lines simulating a rise in altitude. With both lines (pitot and static) connected to the test rig the net differential pressure from pitot to static is near zero and everything is fine. However, with only one line connected the vacuum is drawn across any instrument connected to only one line. There's a great chance of ruining the instrument connected to only one line. I know first hand. I had to pay for the rebuild of my airspeed indicator when the pitot line got disconnected during the test! Bang. So please connect both lines to the Air Speed Switch! Bob Newman TCW Technologies. www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
I'm glad there is a difference in your mind. That is the only place you will find any difference in R value or acoustic value. If it is on the front side, you will NOT be able to properly inspect the firewall. On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 4:10 PM, Bob-tcw wrote: > > > I'm going to use Koolmat on my RV-10, I'm planning on putting it on the > firewall side for the following reasons. > > 1) The Silicon side of koolmat is quite impervious to oil and fluids. > 2) Heat transfer is a function of three modes: Convection, Conduction and > Radiation. Limiting heat transfer into the passanger compartment should > best be accomplished by reducing each of these factors. Insulation on > either side of the firewall will be effective at reducing conduction, > (convection should not be an issue because there's no airflow over the > firewall per se) However, Only by insulating the firewall side can we > reduce the effects of radiation. The radiated heat of the engine and > exhaust system will land on the firewall and heat the firewall. With > insulation only on the cabin side, the firewall effectively is heated and > re-radiates into the cabin. The insulation on the cabin side only slows > the progress of heat flow into the cabin it doesn't prevent it from > occuring. With insulation on the firewall side, the radiated energy cannot > heat the firewall to begin with and therefore should provide less cabin > heating. > 3) Accoustically it should be quieter. For the same reasons as in # 2 for > heat, accoustically it should be quiter if the firewall is not radiated > with sound energy. Theoretically! will see in practice hopefully the > end of this year. > > > So those our my reasons for insulating the firewall side. note, I do plan > on corrosion proofing the rivets on the firewall side before applying the > koolmat. > > FWIW > > > Bob Newman > TCW Technologies > www.tcwtech.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 14, 2008
Hey Guys, We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion. If removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product that could be used here? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question
Date: Feb 14, 2008
Our Air Speed Switch (ASW-1) connects into your standard pitot and static system, you just need to "T" into each of the respective lines. Using it with an alternate source of static pressure from inside the cabin is not an issue. Under all normal cases that static source is closed off, when the Static test performed it certainly checks to ensure that the alternate static source doesn't leak. If you ever use your alternate source in actual conditions the pitot and static system will already be close in differential pressure so no issue. The only problem I know of is during the Static Test when your airplane is sitting on the ground, but the test equipment takes your pitot and static lines up to 20,000 ft. Regarding the recommendations of other manufacturers I can only speculate, so don't take this to the bank. But perhaps they are using a solid-state pressure transducer that can withstand large differential pressures. The real problem is for transducers or instruments with some sort of diaphragm mechanism. Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
OK... Koolmat is intended as a FIRE BARRIER. It is intended to be installed on the engine side firewall. Ask all the NASCAR drivers who experienced catastropic engine fires last year how it worked, it's standard equipment. If you have a problem with inspecting your firewall, don't use it. I have it on mine, it is held by a perimeter bead of red RTV. I can peel it off without much trouble, I have done it once already. If you want to bat around the inspection of the firewall issue then fine, I can pull my stainless steel heat valves off, loosen my eyeball cable guides, remove my firewall mounted electrial connectors and see my firewall in about an hours worth of work. BUT....if I prang a landing, the last thing I'm worrying about is the firewall. The firewall is really not a structural piece. The weldments and adjoining structural members are the parts that will absorb the impact and show signs of STRUCTURAL failure. Yes the firewall will wrinkle, but get on your back, scoot your ass under the panel and see what is really bent. Most of us elected to use the koolmat to prevent heat buldup in the tunnel. It is a fiberglass mat with a pure silicone finish. It is NOT a insulator...it is intended to keep FLAMES from breaching the firewall. So screw your indifference. Rob has spelled it out..read the spec sheet on the stuff and decide if you want it or not...Look at a tube and frame aircraft, the firewall only is intended to keep flames away from the cockpit...not provide structural integrity. I'm off the soap box... Risk Sked 40185 Koolmat user ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:54:29 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation I'm glad there is a difference in your mind. That is the only place you will find any difference in R value or acoustic value. If it is on the front side, you will NOT be able to properly inspect the firewall. On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 4:10 PM, Bob-tcw wrote: > > > I'm going to use Koolmat on my RV-10, I'm planning on putting it on the > firewall side for the following reasons. > > 1) The Silicon side of koolmat is quite impervious to oil and fluids. > 2) Heat transfer is a function of three modes: Convection, Conduction and > Radiation. Limiting heat transfer into the passanger compartment should > best be accomplished by reducing each of these factors. Insulation on > either side of the firewall will be effective at reducing conduction, > (convection should not be an issue because there's no airflow over the > firewall per se) However, Only by insulating the firewall side can we > reduce the effects of radiation. The radiated heat of the engine and > exhaust system will land on the firewall and heat the firewall. With > insulation only on the cabin side, the firewall effectively is heated and > re-radiates into the cabin. The insulation on the cabin side only slows > the progress of heat flow into the cabin it doesn't prevent it from > occuring. With insulation on the firewall side, the radiated energy cannot > heat the firewall to begin with and therefore should provide less cabin > heating. > 3) Accoustically it should be quieter. For the same reasons as in # 2 for > heat, accoustically it should be quiter if the firewall is not radiated > with sound energy. Theoretically! will see in practice hopefully the > end of this year. > > > So those our my reasons for insulating the firewall side. note, I do plan > on corrosion proofing the rivets on the firewall side before applying the > koolmat. > > FWIW > > > Bob Newman > TCW Technologies > www.tcwtech.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Looks like Koolmat installation might become the next 'primer war' . I installed Koolmat on the engine side of the firewall about 12 months ago when 'tunnel heat' was the hot topic (bad pun - sorry). It was my attempt to reduce any radiant heat affects that drove tunnel temps and I used red RTV for attachment. I also installed a layer of Koolmat on the tunnel floor, attached with velcro in answer to Lew's question below. I have also heard of builders here in Oz using snap fasteners and even s/s screws to pin the mat in position, but I doubt that velcro would be up to the mission in the engine compartment. Just another 0.02 worth. Cheers, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Friday, 15 February 2008 2:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Hey Guys, We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion. If removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product that could be used here? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question
Bob, Glad to see your on the list...keeping us honest. I have not received mine yet...hopefully in=C2- few weeks. I opted forthe speed switch as well. Go od info regarding the pressure balance on pitot/static checks. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:49:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Air Speed Switch Question Our Air Speed Switch=C2- (ASW-1) connects into your standard pitot and st atic system,=C2-=C2- you just need to "T" into each of the respective l ines.=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Using it with an alternate source of static p ressure from inside the cabin is not an issue.=C2- Under all normal cases that static source is closed off,=C2- when the Static test performed it certainly checks to ensure that the alternate static source doesn't leak. =C2-=C2-=C2-If you ever use your alternate source in actual condition s the pitot and static system will already be close in differential pressur e so no issue.=C2-=C2-=C2- The=C2-only problem I know of is during the Static Test when your airplane is sitting on the ground, but the test e quipment takes your pitot and static lines up to=C2-20,000 ft.=C2-=C2 -=C2- =C2-Regarding the recommendations of other manufacturers I can only speculate,=C2- so don't take this to the bank.=C2-=C2-=C2- But perhaps they are using a solid-state pressure transducer that can withstan d large differential pressures.=C2-=C2- The real problem is for transdu cers or instruments with some sort of diaphragm mechanism. Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
I'm struggling a bit with this concept of radiant heating of the firewall. It is behind the engine baffling, gets airflow after it passes through the cylinders, so only the exhaust system is radiating any direct heat towards the firewall, absent an uncontained fire. Maybe this product would help on the lower half of the firewall, but surely there is no significant radiant heating of the upper half of the firewall. Other than at very low airspeed or taxing, there probably isn't significant radiant heat on the lower firewall either. William Curtis wrote: > > Kelly, > > Based on your concerns below, I think the Koolmat may be a waste of money for you. You may be better served by looking at a product designed specifically for the cabin side of the firewall. > > By placing the Koolmat on the cabin side of the firewall, you eliminate one of the principal benefits of the Koolmat, that of reduction of radiant heating of the firewall and everything that is attached to it. The fibers in the Koolmat are impregnated and would be difficult to absorb moisture. Certainly being able to inspect the firewall is valuable, however I think this could be done from the cabin side. > > I used red RTV and the engine mount to hold mine in place. The most challenging part was neatly making all the cutouts for the various items passing through the firewall. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." > -- Dr. Suess > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Trim Controller
This wasn't from the "Group buy" was it? I haven't received any info from Stein since Jan 23rd and am hoping that I haven't deleted something important by mistake. john gary wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } I just got my trim controller from Stein and have a question that might be helpful to all. I got the air switch. It has a Pitot input and a Static input. Is there any overwhelming reason to plumb the static port into the aircraft system? Why not leave it open to the cabin pressure? Other than being off a few MPH from time to time would it make any big difference? Gary 40274 --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Shameless For-Profit Promotion of New RV-10 Products We've posted a few new products on our web site specifically for RV-10s: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm Please call or email with any questions! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Lew When I spoke to Patty at Koolmat today she suggested using a product called "gorilla snot" (I kid you not) to secure the Koolmat. She said it was also called "3M Yellow" so I think this is it: http://www.3mestore.com/62214006090.html?WT.mc_id=3M-com-AtoZ-Super-Weathers trip-Adhesive She also mentioned that you must use a silicone based adhesive to join sheets. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: February-14-08 8:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Hey Guys, We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion. If removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product that could be used here? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Hmmm I think that there are two different applications being discussed her. I for one am only concerned about fire protection. Granted this is a very low risk, I have read a few stories about engine fires that make me want to spend a few dineros to mitigate this risk. Do a search on the VansAIrForce website for some interesting tales... Interestingly, one of the places where fire can enter the cockpit is via the floor. It seems that an engine fire will flow under the firewall and melt the bottom skin. I plan to line the full floor area with Koolmat to mitigate this risk as well. The other application being discussed is about insulation. Here I don't care so much. I fly in places were a -25c days is not uncommon in winter. So if its heat, bring it on.... Cheers Les Keaney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: February-14-08 8:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation I'm struggling a bit with this concept of radiant heating of the firewall. It is behind the engine baffling, gets airflow after it passes through the cylinders, so only the exhaust system is radiating any direct heat towards the firewall, absent an uncontained fire. Maybe this product would help on the lower half of the firewall, but surely there is no significant radiant heating of the upper half of the firewall. Other than at very low airspeed or taxing, there probably isn't significant radiant heat on the lower firewall either. William Curtis wrote: > > Kelly, > > Based on your concerns below, I think the Koolmat may be a waste of money for you. You may be better served by looking at a product designed specifically for the cabin side of the firewall. > > By placing the Koolmat on the cabin side of the firewall, you eliminate one of the principal benefits of the Koolmat, that of reduction of radiant heating of the firewall and everything that is attached to it. The fibers in the Koolmat are impregnated and would be difficult to absorb moisture. Certainly being able to inspect the firewall is valuable, however I think this could be done from the cabin side. > > I used red RTV and the engine mount to hold mine in place. The most challenging part was neatly making all the cutouts for the various items passing through the firewall. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." > -- Dr. Suess > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
So why not a solar energized steam turbine? Or algae derived biodiesel fired steam boiler? Where's the real experimental here anyway? Lycs and auto derived internal combustion is sooooooooo passe, eh? Perhaps Rick is right...if you can mount the Koolmat on the front side in a way that it is easily removable for inspections, it just might be the trick, although in Alberta, you probably need another insulation on the back side. On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 9:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > > Kelly > > Given these politically correct days, I am not sure the CO2 emissions from a > coal fired, steam powered RV would be acceptable..... > > Cheers > > Les ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim Controller
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2008
John, I hadn't heard anything so I called SteinAir last night. They were going through the list trying to figure out some of the people that ordered based on username. So they found my name, my bank account is poorer by the amount of servo and harness, and it's on its way. So you might just give them a call today. Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164161#164161 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hartzell 14" Spinner Dimensions
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Feb 15, 2008
I am looking for a dimension from the propeller mounting surface of the engine, to the back edge of the spinner. I am attempting to mount the cowl (James Cowl) without the prop or spinner in hand, and need this dimension to set the jig used to hold the cowl at the proper dimension from the face of the crank. There is a rather long lead time on the prop, and I would like to get the cowl positioned so I can continue mounting the plenum, ram air, etc. If anyone has the Hartzell 14" spinner (A-2297), and the 'standard' Hartzell 2-Blade Blended Airfoil Prop (C2YR-1BFP/F8068D ) on hand, I would greatly appreciate any help. I received some numbers from Hartzell, but am not confident enough to start cutting (they told me .99"). Others have told me that number doesn't seem right, but do not have data one way or the other. Thanks, Jason ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Trim Controller
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Yes it is from the group buy. If you haven't received an e-mail from Stein verifying your order, I would contact him. Just so all know. The controller does not come with fittings to tie into your pitot/static system nor does it come with the 25 pin sub D connector shell or the on/off/momentary switch you will kneed. So if you are just waiting for the controller you may want to pick up these things while you wait. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hurst Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: RE: Trim Controller This wasn't from the "Group buy" was it? I haven't received any info from Stein since Jan 23rd and am hoping that I haven't deleted something important by mistake. john gary wrote: I just got my trim controller from Stein and have a question that might be helpful to all. I got the air switch. It has a Pitot input and a Static input. Is there any overwhelming reason to plumb the static port into the aircraft system? Why not leave it open to the cabin pressure? Other than being off a few MPH from time to time would it make any big difference? Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Shameless For-Profit Promotion of New RV-10 Products We've posted a few new products on our web site specifically for RV-10s: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm Please call or email with any questions! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Trim Controller
John; Mine came in the mail last night. Stein called me last week for my credit card information. Maybe you ought to call them if you haven't heard from them over the last two weeks. Fred. 40515 bonded one door yesterday, whoopee!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Actually I didn't man to imply that the firewall was not structural but to inspect the firewall and not the structure behind it might allow one to miss damage to the structure behind the firewall. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:14:58 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation OK... Koolmat is intended as a FIRE BARRIER. It is intended to be installed on the engine side firewall. Ask all the NASCAR drivers who experienced catastropic engine fires last year how it worked, it's standard equipment. If you have a problem with inspecting your firewall, don't use it. I have it on mine, it is held by a perimeter bead of red RTV. I can peel it off without much trouble, I have done it once already. If you want to bat around the inspection of the firewall issue then fine, I can pull my stainless steel heat valves off, loosen my eyeball cable guides, remove my firewall mounted electrial connectors and see my firewall in about an hours worth of work. BUT....if I prang a landing, the last thing I'm worrying about is the firewall. The firewall is really not a structural piece. The weldments and adjoining structural members are the parts that will absorb the impact and show signs of STRUCTURAL failure. Yes the firewall will wrinkle, but get on your back, scoot your a! ss under the panel and see what is really bent. Most of us elected to use the koolmat to prevent heat buldup in the tunnel. It is a fiberglass mat with a pure silicone finish. It is NOT a insulator...it is intended to keep FLAMES from breaching the firewall. So screw your indifference. Rob has spelled it out..read the spec sheet on the stuff and decide if you want it or not...Look at a tube and frame aircraft, the firewall only is intended to keep flames away from the cockpit...not provide structural integrity. I'm off the soap box... Risk Sked 40185 Koolmat user ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:54:29 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation I'm glad there is a difference in your mind. That is the only place you will find any difference in R value or acoustic value. If it is on the front side, you will NOT be able to properly inspect the firewall. On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 4:10 PM, Bob-tcw wrote: > > > I'm going to use Koolmat on my RV-10, I'm planning on putting it on the > firewall side for the following reasons. > > 1) The Silicon side of koolmat is quite impervious to oil and fluids. > 2) Heat transfer is a function of three modes: Convection, Conduction and > Radiation. Limiting heat transfer into the passanger compartment should > best be accomplished by reducing each of these factors. Insulation on > either side of the firewall will be effective at reducing conduction, > (convection should not be an issue because there's no airflow over the > firewall per se) However, Only by insulating the firewall side can we > reduce the effects of radiation. The radiated heat of the engine and > exhaust system will land on the firewall and heat the firewall. With > insulation only on the cabin side, the firewall effectively is heated and > re-radiates into the cabin. The insulation on the cabin side only slows > the progress of heat flow into the cabin it doesn't prevent it from > occuring. With insulation on the firewall side, the radiated energy cannot > heat the firewall to begin with and therefore should provide less cabin > heating. > 3) Accoustically it should be quieter. For the same reasons as in # 2 for > heat, accoustically it should be quiter if the firewall is not radiated > with sound energy. Theoretically! will see in practice hopefully the > end of this year. > > > So those our my reasons for insulating the firewall side. note, I do plan > on corrosion proofing the rivets on the firewall side before applying the > koolmat. > > FWIW > > > Bob Newman > TCW Technologies > www.tcwtech.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
One of the largest contributors to deaths in aviation is post crash fires often caused by ruptured fuel tanks...has anyone reviewed fuel cell bladders? **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. Go to AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell 14" Spinner Dimensions
Jason. I have the same prop but with a standard cowl. I could measure from the starter ring to the back of the faceplate. From the face of the starter ring plate to the back of the spinner plate I measure 2.95 inches. I was able to mic from the face of the tooth to the back and 3.070 inches. Go to the site below to look at pics of where I took the measurements. Hope this helps. Fred. http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/Engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2008
About overhead consoles: I went to the junk yard and picked up the overhead out of a late model Chevy Blazer last weekend (it comes out with three screws) -- complete with wiring harness, front and rear left/right spots, three compartments, dome light, AND apparently a compass and temp display ... for $25. For that, I'll make it work! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164190#164190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Choices, choices. How do you feel about an extra 35-40 lbs empty weight? I would presume you would want to do slow build wings if you go that direction. GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote: > One of the largest contributors to deaths in aviation is post crash > fires often caused by ruptured fuel tanks...has anyone reviewed fuel > cell bladders? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: V Speeds
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2008
I agree you don't want to exceed the design envelope for the plane, but it seems to me you need to verify the V speeds you can during phase 1. If you are afraid to test up to design Vne, your Vne should be set at the fastest speed you are willing to test. Maybe I'm just weird, but to me phase 1 is a test period, not a "flyoff", so explore the whole flight envelope before you start filling up the other seats. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164198#164198 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Fairing
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Hey Chris. Here's a follow up comment to your process of adding a strip of glass/epoxy between the hinge and the fairing on the strut pants: I did this (as well as adding a layer over the rivet heads)on the nose strut and I ran into this problem that others should be aware of. When you put pressure on the bond with clecoes, some resin squeezes out between the ears of the hinge. This looked innocent enough at the time and I didn't think anything about it. But then after it hardened and I tried to mate the two hinge halves, the slight build up of resin between the ears prevents the mating hinge from seating all the way in -- so that even though the hinge pin slides freely in each half separately, it won't draw the hinges together -- i.e., you can't get the hinge pin in. So after a couple hours of carving out the resin between the ears, it finally mates! Whew! It looks indestructible, but I promise, I will take great care not to let the resin get in the way on the main gear strut pants! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164199#164199 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com
Les A word of caution when using the 3M yellow. If you use it you will have a very tough time to remove?the Koolmat for inspection. It is a contact cement made for installing automotive weather stripping. It will make your installation permanent. Good stuff though for gluing together non similar items. I think for inspection purposes the silicone bead will work much better. Just a thought Jeff Nichols -----Original Message----- From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:55 pm Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Lew When I spoke to Patty at Koolmat today she suggested using a product called "gorilla snot" (I kid you not) to secure the Koolmat. She said it was also called "3M Yellow" so I think this is it: http://www.3mestore.com/62214006090.html?WT.mc_id=3M-com-AtoZ-Super-Weathers trip-Adhesive She also mentioned that you must use a silicone based adhesive to join sheets. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: February-14-08 8:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Hey Guys, We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion. If removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product that could be used here? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
How much does it weigh, Lew? Jack Phillips Still waiting for my SB Wing Kit #40610 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 9:40 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting About overhead consoles: I went to the junk yard and picked up the overhead out of a late model Chevy Blazer last weekend (it comes out with three screws) -- complete with wiring harness, front and rear left/right spots, three compartments, dome light, AND apparently a compass and temp display ... for $25. For that, I'll make it work! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164190#164190 _________________________________________________ or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hartzell 14" Spinner Dimensions
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Jason, I will be doing the same install on my RV-10. If you have not yet purchased the spinner, I just bought one from MustangAero at a much reduced price ($885 for the polished version, $785 for the unpolished one). The only recommendation I can offer is to not do any cowl work until you have at lease the spinner in hand. There is a huge slug or work needed to get a proper cowl fit. Without at least the spinners back plate mounted you run a risk of doing a lot of rework. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (400 hrs) RV-10 (wings) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 8:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell 14" Spinner Dimensions I am looking for a dimension from the propeller mounting surface of the engine, to the back edge of the spinner. I am attempting to mount the cowl (James Cowl) without the prop or spinner in hand, and need this dimension to set the jig used to hold the cowl at the proper dimension from the face of the crank. There is a rather long lead time on the prop, and I would like to get the cowl positioned so I can continue mounting the plenum, ram air, etc. If anyone has the Hartzell 14" spinner (A-2297), and the 'standard' Hartzell 2-Blade Blended Airfoil Prop (C2YR-1BFP/F8068D) on hand, I would greatly appreciate any help. I received some numbers from Hartzell, but am not confident enough to start cutting (they told me .99"). Others have told me that number doesn't seem right, but do not have data one way or the other. Thanks, Jason ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the airflow to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct has less convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist in air flow. It's the same duct used for routing air to race car disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for ~$150 delivered (from recollection). I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he seems to be pleased with this simple mod. It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below). If anyone is interested please contact me off list. Robin Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Trim Controller
Thanks, I though a lot of time had passed since he last contacted me. John John; Mine came in the mail last night. Stein called me last week for my credit card information. Maybe you ought to call them if you haven't heard from them over the last two weeks. Fred. 40515 bonded one door yesterday, whoopee!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Feb 15, 2008
Maybe you could place a scrap of Koolmat on your keyboard before you type.... Kevin 40494 ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 22:14:58 -0500 (EST) > > >OK... > >Koolmat is intended as a FIRE BARRIER. It is intended to be >installed on the engine side firewall. Ask all the NASCAR >drivers who experienced catastropic engine fires last year >how it worked, it's standard equipment. If you have a >problem with inspecting your firewall, don't use it. I have >it on mine, it is held by a perimeter bead of red RTV. I >can peel it off without much trouble, I have done it once >already. If you want to bat around the inspection of the >firewall issue then fine, I can pull my stainless steel >heat valves off, loosen my eyeball cable guides, remove my >firewall mounted electrial connectors and see my firewall >in about an hours worth of work. BUT....if I prang a >landing, the last thing I'm worrying about is the firewall. >The firewall is really not a structural piece. The >weldments and adjoining structural members are the parts >that will absorb the impact and show signs of STRUCTURAL >failure. Yes the firewall will wrinkle, but get on your >back, scoot your a! > ss under the panel and see what is really bent. Most of us >elected to use the koolmat to prevent heat buldup in the >tunnel. It is a fiberglass mat with a pure silicone finish. >It is NOT a insulator...it is intended to keep FLAMES from >breaching the firewall. So screw your indifference. Rob has >spelled it out..read the spec sheet on the stuff and decide >if you want it or not...Look at a tube and frame aircraft, >the firewall only is intended to keep flames away from the >cockpit...not provide structural integrity. I'm off the >soap box... > >Risk Sked >40185 >Koolmat user ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
LOL...OK...that's funny...you win. Rick S. ----- Original Message ----- From: kilopapa(at)antelecom.net Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 6:36:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Maybe you could place a scrap of Koolmat on your keyboard before you type.... Kevin 40494 ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 22:14:58 -0500 (EST) > > >OK... > >Koolmat is intended as a FIRE BARRIER. It is intended to be >installed on the engine side firewall. Ask all the NASCAR >drivers who experienced catastropic engine fires last year >how it worked, it's standard equipment. If you have a >problem with inspecting your firewall, don't use it. I have >it on mine, it is held by a perimeter bead of red RTV. I >can peel it off without much trouble, I have done it once >already. If you want to bat around the inspection of the >firewall issue then fine, I can pull my stainless steel >heat valves off, loosen my eyeball cable guides, remove my >firewall mounted electrial connectors and see my firewall >in about an hours worth of work. BUT....if I prang a >landing, the last thing I'm worrying about is the firewall. >The firewall is really not a structural piece. The >weldments and adjoining structural members are the parts >that will absorb the impact and show signs of STRUCTURAL >failure. Yes the firewall will wrinkle, but get on your >back, scoot your a! > ss under the panel and see what is really bent. Most of us >elected to use the koolmat to prevent heat buldup in the >tunnel. It is a fiberglass mat with a pure silicone finish. >It is NOT a insulator...it is intended to keep FLAMES from >breaching the firewall. So screw your indifference. Rob has >spelled it out..read the spec sheet on the stuff and decide >if you want it or not...Look at a tube and frame aircraft, >the firewall only is intended to keep flames away from the >cockpit...not provide structural integrity. I'm off the >soap box... > >Risk Sked >40185 >Koolmat user ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Feb 15, 2008
An alternative. When in doubt push the fire handle. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kilopapa(at)antelecom.net Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Maybe you could place a scrap of Koolmat on your keyboard before you type.... Kevin 40494 ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 22:14:58 -0500 (EST) > > >OK... > >Koolmat is intended as a FIRE BARRIER. It is intended to be installed >on the engine side firewall. Ask all the NASCAR drivers who experienced >catastropic engine fires last year how it worked, it's standard >equipment. If you have a problem with inspecting your firewall, don't >use it. I have it on mine, it is held by a perimeter bead of red RTV. I >can peel it off without much trouble, I have done it once already. If >you want to bat around the inspection of the firewall issue then fine, >I can pull my stainless steel heat valves off, loosen my eyeball cable >guides, remove my firewall mounted electrial connectors and see my >firewall in about an hours worth of work. BUT....if I prang a landing, >the last thing I'm worrying about is the firewall. >The firewall is really not a structural piece. The weldments and >adjoining structural members are the parts that will absorb the impact >and show signs of STRUCTURAL failure. Yes the firewall will wrinkle, >but get on your back, scoot your a! > ss under the panel and see what is really bent. Most of us elected to >use the koolmat to prevent heat buldup in the tunnel. It is a >fiberglass mat with a pure silicone finish. >It is NOT a insulator...it is intended to keep FLAMES from breaching >the firewall. So screw your indifference. Rob has spelled it out..read >the spec sheet on the stuff and decide if you want it or not...Look at >a tube and frame aircraft, the firewall only is intended to keep flames >away from the cockpit...not provide structural integrity. I'm off the >soap box... > >Risk Sked >40185 >Koolmat user ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: New service letter on RV10
Date: Feb 16, 2008
Just received a new service letter, in the mail, on the door warning switch es shipped after August 2006. Here is a link to it on Van's site: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/letters/10_door_latch_switches.pdf Vern Smith (#324) _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g ive. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is the electric airplane coming?
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2008
Noticed some articles in Automobile Magazine and Motortrend recently about the new Tesla Roadster. It doesn't take much imagination to see what it could mean for airplanes. For instance: The Tesla has a curb weight of 2690 pounds, an RV-10 is 2700 pounds. The Tesla has 248 hp and the Lycoming gives about 260 hp. Motortrend describes the electric motor as "watermelon-sized". The lithium power cells (all 6831 of them) are supposedly similar to laptop batteries with a proprietary arrangement, and Tesla claims they will last 5 years still yielding 70% of their power. They are selling the car for $98+, so the drive train is definitely affordable by RV-10 standards. By the time you need replacements, the Lithium-Titanate ones should be available & cheap. The current Electric Drag Car champion uses Li-Titanates and has a modified arc welder he uses for quick recharges at the track. Fire away.... John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164410#164410 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: New service letter on RV10
Date: Feb 16, 2008
As another double check I found you can easily feel the rod as you latch the door by reaching back from the front seat. It still works after I installed the interior from flightline interiors. Folks in the back seat that fly with you regularly can also see it very easily if you trust them. It good push to confirm closed is my last line of defense. Marcus 40286 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 1:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: New service letter on RV10 Just received a new service letter, in the mail, on the door warning switches shipped after August 2006. Here is a link to it on Van's site: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/letters/10_door_latch_switches.pdf Vern Smith (#324) _____ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as er/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join' target='_new'>Learn more. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
This won't be news to many, but I just installed my interior provided by Abbey at Flightline interiors and it is fantastic. A lot of little details that really impressed me and the fit was spot on. Not too painful to install thanks to the good fit. One recommendation I have is if you choose to install soundproofing in the inside of the firewall, do it as early in the construction process as possible, that was the only real pain as I decided to combine the efforts. The headliner would certainly be easier to install with the top upside down before installation, but to be honest it wasn't bad at all using the recommended 3M trim adhesive (spray contact cement) and probably avoids other issues like interfering with installing the windows by waiting until later. The sound difference is amazing and makes an already very comfortable airplane even more pleasant to fly. I'm just glad the airplane is finally finished!!!! Of course there are still a number of things to improve on so we have really just gotten to a different phase of the never ending construction process, oh well. Marcus 40286 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the electric airplane coming?
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Feb 16, 2008
The folks at Sonex have been working hard on an electric powerplant. There was a good writeup recently in "Sport Aviation", here is a press release: http://www.sonexaircraft.com/press/releases/pr_072407.html Promising concept, they still have a long ways to go with the storage issues. -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164421#164421 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
What did you use under the interior for soundproofing? Did you spray the contact cement over the full surface? Pictures ? Thanks Bill S 7a Ark _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Interior This won't be news to many, but I just installed my interior provided by Abbey at Flightline interiors and it is fantastic. A lot of little details that really impressed me and the fit was spot on. Not too painful to install thanks to the good fit. One recommendation I have is if you choose to install soundproofing in the inside of the firewall, do it as early in the construction process as possible, that was the only real pain as I decided to combine the efforts. The headliner would certainly be easier to install with the top upside down before installation, but to be honest it wasn't bad at all using the recommended 3M trim adhesive (spray contact cement) and probably avoids other issues like interfering with installing the windows by waiting until later. The sound difference is amazing and makes an already very comfortable airplane even more pleasant to fly. I'm just glad the airplane is finally finished!!!! Of course there are still a number of things to improve on so we have really just gotten to a different phase of the never ending construction process, oh well. Marcus 40286 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
I just have to second the "fantastic" about Abbey's great work. I just finished the install yesterday and it was great. I still have lot of work on my end to do...build overhead, but Abbey's kit was great... Rene' 40322 N423CF Inspection done, flight training and first flight soon... 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Interior This won't be news to many, but I just installed my interior provided by Abbey at Flightline interiors and it is fantastic. A lot of little details that really impressed me and the fit was spot on. Not too painful to install thanks to the good fit. One recommendation I have is if you choose to install soundproofing in the inside of the firewall, do it as early in the construction process as possible, that was the only real pain as I decided to combine the efforts. The headliner would certainly be easier to install with the top upside down before installation, but to be honest it wasn't bad at all using the recommended 3M trim adhesive (spray contact cement) and probably avoids other issues like interfering with installing the windows by waiting until later. The sound difference is amazing and makes an already very comfortable airplane even more pleasant to fly. I'm just glad the airplane is finally finished!!!! Of course there are still a number of things to improve on so we have really just gotten to a different phase of the never ending construction process, oh well. Marcus 40286 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
Hi: Along the subject of interiors, can someone go through the issues involved in doing your own interior as the specs of the materials to be used, fireproofing that sort of thing. Is there any reference material or websites that cover the issues. Thanks Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 11:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior I just have to second the "fantastic" about Abbey's great work. I just finished the install yesterday and it was great. I still have lot of work on my end to do...build overhead, but Abbey's kit was great... Rene' 40322 N423CF Inspection done, flight training and first flight soon... 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:16 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Interior This won't be news to many, but I just installed my interior provided by Abbey at Flightline interiors and it is fantastic. A lot of little details that really impressed me and the fit was spot on. Not too painful to install thanks to the good fit. One recommendation I have is if you choose to install soundproofing in the inside of the firewall, do it as early in the construction process as possible, that was the only real pain as I decided to combine the efforts. The headliner would certainly be easier to install with the top upside down before installation, but to be honest it wasn't bad at all using the recommended 3M trim adhesive (spray contact cement) and probably avoids other issues like interfering with installing the windows by waiting until later. The sound difference is amazing and makes an already very comfortable airplane even more pleasant to fly. I'm just glad the airplane is finally finished!!!! Of course there are still a number of things to improve on so we have really just gotten to a different phase of the never ending construction process, oh well. Marcus 40286 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www .matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2008
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Is the electric airplane coming?
>Fire away.... Nah, Don't have to... Lithium batteries, when contaminated or not properly cared for, can do that on their own :) (Lithium Polymer batteries can ignite when you look at them wrong! ) The Chevy Volt had an issue with the LG batteries; Chevy called it a "Thermal Event". They switched to A123 batteries and haven't had a problem since. -Jim 40384, Why yes, I am an Electronic Engineer! johngoodman wrote: > >Noticed some articles in Automobile Magazine and Motortrend recently about the new Tesla Roadster. It doesn't take much imagination to see what it could mean for airplanes. For instance: > >The Tesla has a curb weight of 2690 pounds, an RV-10 is 2700 pounds. > >The Tesla has 248 hp and the Lycoming gives about 260 hp. > >Motortrend describes the electric motor as "watermelon-sized". > >The lithium power cells (all 6831 of them) are supposedly similar to laptop batteries with a proprietary arrangement, and Tesla claims they will last 5 years still yielding 70% of their power. They are selling the car for $98+, so the drive train is definitely affordable by RV-10 standards. By the time you need replacements, the Lithium-Titanate ones should be available & cheap. > >The current Electric Drag Car champion uses Li-Titanates and has a modified arc welder he uses for quick recharges at the track. > >Fire away.... > >John > >-------- >#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived >N711JG reserved > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164410#164410 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
I'll work on getting some pictures, somehow I've managed to forget doing that part. As for the soundproofing, I opted for the material Flightline interior sells and it seems to work very well. On the headliner, I sprayed the contact cement about 2 feet wide and completely front to back on the aft part of the cabin top and on a similar area of the fabric. It stuck great and then I just sprayed the rest of the area on each side and spread out the fabric. The only part I'm not real keen on was they sent some 3/8"-ish foam that is to go over the rivets to let the fabric lay nicer. It mostly causes a bulged area above the longerons so I'd give that process some more thought before doing it again. I suspect you could leave it out altogether without the rivets being too apparent. For the forward part of the cabin (above the front seats) I took some foam board from the craft store (about 3/16 thick with poster board on each side) and made a form that fit between all the moldings. Then wrapped that with the fabric and glued it to the roof. It actually was very easy and turned out pretty nice. Marcus _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior What did you use under the interior for soundproofing? Did you spray the contact cement over the full surface? Pictures ? Thanks Bill S 7a Ark _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Interior This won't be news to many, but I just installed my interior provided by Abbey at Flightline interiors and it is fantastic. A lot of little details that really impressed me and the fit was spot on. Not too painful to install thanks to the good fit. One recommendation I have is if you choose to install soundproofing in the inside of the firewall, do it as early in the construction process as possible, that was the only real pain as I decided to combine the efforts. The headliner would certainly be easier to install with the top upside down before installation, but to be honest it wasn't bad at all using the recommended 3M trim adhesive (spray contact cement) and probably avoids other issues like interfering with installing the windows by waiting until later. The sound difference is amazing and makes an already very comfortable airplane even more pleasant to fly. I'm just glad the airplane is finally finished!!!! Of course there are still a number of things to improve on so we have really just gotten to a different phase of the never ending construction process, oh well. Marcus 40286 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2008
OK Jack, I took my digital postage scales over and weighed the Blazer console -- 4 lbs. 4 oz. That's as is, probably could be stripped down some. I'll attach a couple of pictures. Here's a comment I think is worth sharing from Paul: "Hi Lew, We have the overhead console you describe and I was very excited by the prospects of outside air temp display but my bubble was burst. It seems you also need the vehicle ECU to handle the input from the RTD probe and the output to the overhead display. I learned a lot about it by searching the web. I still really like the console, though. I swapped out the resistive filament bulbs with LED's and have the current draw down to less than .1 amps. Paul Hahn #40203" -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164478#164478 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ovrhd2_124.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/ovrhd1_140.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New service letter on RV10
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 16, 2008
My kit was shipped September 2007 and all 4 are the bad ones. [Crying or Very sad] Looks like they will be swapping out a bunch of them. Glad they announced it now as it will be another month or more before I will be needing them. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164488#164488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
Here are some pictures of my seats and belts...starting to look like a flying machine. I plan on finishing the rest of the interior after I am flying. Rene' 40322 N423CF..almost finished 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834,
P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Date: Feb 16, 2008
Just received these pictres from Rene of the inertial belt installation in his aircraft. I reduced the size to accomodate the dial up users. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Interior
Hi Rene I am envious. It must be great to be so close to being in the air. Who provided your interior? I noticed that the windows had a very clean looking trim ring. Do you have any other pictures of the windows showing more detail of the trim? Thanks Les Kearney #40643 CG_CWZ (reserved) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: February-16-08 8:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Interior Here are some pictures of my seats and belts...starting to look like a flying machine. I plan on finishing the rest of the interior after I am flying. Rene' 40322 N423CF..almost finished 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 16, 2008
I don't have any other pictures. I got my interior form Abbey (Flightline , http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/). She sells the trim in 10 foot sections, it is just glued on with contract cement. She has other options, some not on her web site, that really help to "finish" the interior. I also got stick covers and center pieces for the back seats. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:46 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Hi Rene I am envious. It must be great to be so close to being in the air. Who provided your interior? I noticed that the windows had a very clean looking trim ring. Do you have any other pictures of the windows showing more detail of the trim? Thanks Les Kearney #40643 CG_CWZ (reserved) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: February-16-08 8:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Interior Here are some pictures of my seats and belts...starting to look like a flying machine. I plan on finishing the rest of the interior after I am flying. Rene' 40322 N423CF..almost finished 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 17, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Rene, Thanks for the interior photos. I have a question about your retract seatbelts. I cobbled together some retract belts that actually worked great (including Dial Release) but they were quite heavy ~4 Lbs each. Can I ask where you purchased your retracts, and about what they weigh? Grumpy also has a nice set of retracts and I believe Chris created a set of 3 point retracts in his plane. Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 17, 2008
Rene, A real nice look, job well done. A real good target for me to aspire to. Chuck #40806 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Interior Here are some pictures of my seats and belts...starting to look like a flying machine. I plan on finishing the rest of the interior after I am flying. Rene' 40322 N423CF..almost finished 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection
Date: Feb 17, 2008
We just finished the Van's stock door handles, latch mechanism, strut and seal for both doors. When the door is properly latched there is a 1/16" gap between the door surface and the cabin. When the door is improperly latched there is a huge gap at the bottom edge of the door that is impossible to overlook if one takes the time to glance down. The gap is wedge shaped about 3/4" aft and 1/8" forward. Our Spartan (non-plush , no leather, no crushed velvet mink or sable) interior will definitely NOT obscure this telltale. Are any of you flying RV-10 pilots able to do a strictly visual check on your door's security?? Paul Hahn #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Seat Belt Opinion Please
Date: Feb 17, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Seeing Rene's interior reminded me that I need to make a final decision on my Seatbelts. As mentioned earlier I cobbled together some nice seatbelts from a combination of Drifter 4 point belts and a retract head (eBay). The entire package was probably $75.00 including the rotary buckle release. The downside was that they were heavy (~4 Lbs each) and they would require some custom fabrication to mount. Plus the spool section looks to be about 30% taller/larger than Rene's retracts. I liked them in principal but was concerned about straying too far off the reservation with this change. If I don't go with the retracts I will probably choose the Hooker belts (~$600 - 10%). Does anyone have an opinion (loaded question) about the actual benefits/drawbacks of the retracts vs. the stock mounting of fixed seatbelts? I don't mind the restriction of my fixed RV-6A belts but the 10 will be more of a X-Country machine for me. BTW I have legally changed both my name and my wife's name to RV-10 instead of re-embroidering the seats. Thanks Rene. RV-10 (AKA Robin) Marks N110EE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834,
P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Date: Feb 17, 2008
Great Pictures, but a question? Are the inertial belts and "reels" coming from Vans or some other source. If not from Vans, how about a link? Thanks Bill S 7a Ark finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1) Just received these pictres from Rene of the inertial belt installation in his aircraft. I reduced the size to accomodate the dial up users. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Rudder cable travel
I've been noodling on an alternative (spring biased) rudder trim design. One of the things I need to know from someone that has their rudder pedals and rudder cables and rudder installed and connected is: 1 _How far does the rudder cable (either side) travel_ ? With the rudder in 'neutral' position (each rudder pedal in-line with the other). when you depress the pilot side RIGHT rudder pedal how far forward does the rudder cable move until the rudder hits it's stop? Similarly, with the pedals neutral again, when you move the pilot side LEFT rudder pedal forward until the rudder hits the stop, how far aft did/does the rudder cable that is connected to the pilot side right rudder pedal move? I would greatly appreciate any help in obtaining the above information. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834,
P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Date: Feb 17, 2008
I am building in Phoenix and contacted AMSAFE about inertial belts for the 10. One of their managers flies light airplanes and agreed to make a belt system for me if I would beef up the hard point arrangement of the lid. The result is that they refer RV10 belt inquires to me at www.inertialbelts.com. The belts are specifically sized for the 10 but they may work for other RVs. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:45 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1) --> Great Pictures, but a question? Are the inertial belts and "reels" coming from Vans or some other source. If not from Vans, how about a link? Thanks Bill S 7a Ark finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1) Just received these pictres from Rene of the inertial belt installation in his aircraft. I reduced the size to accomodate the dial up users. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection
Date: Feb 17, 2008
I too agonized about the door security system and I conversed with the builder who lost the door TWICE. The first without hte system and once with the system installed and working properly. I then concluded my pre takeoff check would be a visual and touch check for the pins. In addtion a good fitting door latches a lot easier than one that has a warp (ever so slight) set during construction. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of eagerlee Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:54 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection We just finished the Van's stock door handles, latch mechanism, strut and seal for both doors. When the door is properly latched there is a 1/16" gap between the door surface and the cabin. When the door is improperly latched there is a huge gap at the bottom edge of the door that is impossible to overlook if one takes the time to glance down. The gap is wedge shaped about 3/4" aft and 1/8" forward. Our Spartan (non-plush , no leather, no crushed velvet mink or sable) interior will definitely NOT obscure this telltale. Are any of you flying RV-10 pilots able to do a strictly visual check on your door's security?? Paul Hahn #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Interior
Date: Feb 17, 2008
Here is where I got the belts... http://www.inertialbelts.com/ I don't know how much they weighted.but I don't think it was 4 Lbs a piece. I am sure David knows... David McNeill [dlm46007(at)cox.net] Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Rene, Thanks for the interior photos. I have a question about your retract seatbelts. I cobbled together some retract belts that actually worked great (including Dial Release) but they were quite heavy ~4 Lbs each. Can I ask where you purchased your retracts, and about what they weigh? Grumpy also has a nice set of retracts and I believe Chris created a set of 3 point retracts in his plane. Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine before the upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those that have installed the engine first, was there any issue with alignment of the upper fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with pre-loading the engine mount and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on? cheers, Ron ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the airflow to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct has less convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist in air flow. It's the same duct used for routing air to race car disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for ~$150 delivered (from recollection). I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he seems to be pleased with this simple mod. It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below). If anyone is interested please contact me off list. Robin Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2008
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
I installed the engine before I put on the upper forward fuse. I haven't had any issues with alignment. Leaving it off definitely made wiring the panel and running cables through the firewall much easier since I didn't know where I wanted to run everything before the engine was on. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 McGANN wrote: > I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine > before the upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those > that have installed the engine first, was there any issue with > alignment of the upper fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with > pre-loading the engine mount and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on? > > cheers, > Ron > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin > Marks > *Sent:* Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct > > I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil > cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the > airflow to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct > has less convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist > in air flow. It's the same duct used for routing air to race car > disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for > ~$150 delivered (from recollection). > > I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including > shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he > seems to be pleased with this simple mod. > > It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below). > > If anyone is interested please contact me off list. > > > > Robin > > Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com > > > > Duct.jpg > > "Warning: > The information contained in this email and any attached files is > confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended > recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any > attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email > in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been > taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, > however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the > sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus > checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to > your computer." > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, Santa
Teresa, NM
Date: Feb 17, 2008
Has a date been set for LOE 2008? Richard Reynolds ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Benedict" <c-140(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2008
Subject: Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana Count
y, Santa Teresa, NM Check this web site: www.landofenchantmentflyin.com/ The date is TBA. Frank _____________________________________________________________ There's no better place to relax and unwind than on your own massage tab le. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mNeoz2v4vVwVIUBpa0aNo pWAb0SHtNnqfVzwf9BoaRUUFyc/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Flap Torque Tube Question
Hi All I hesitate to use the word "primer" in a question but I have to. Fortunately the question is more of a "how to" question rather than a "what to use question". Step 3 of page 40-4 of the plans requires the priming of the interior of the flap torque tubes. Can anyone shed some light as to how one primes the interior of tubes? This has me stumped. Given the tubes are steel, what does one use as a primer. Ooops, I just started another primer thread. Inquiring minds need to know.. Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Flap Torque Tube Question
Date: Feb 17, 2008
Flush the inside of the tube with your choice of solvent. Tape closed one end and pour primer into the tube. Invert the tube as needed to coat the inside and then pour out the excess primer. I use PPG DP-40LF for all priming. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (400 hrs) RV-10 (wings) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Flap Torque Tube Question Hi All I hesitate to use the word "primer" in a question but I have to. Fortunately the question is more of a "how to" question rather than a "what to use question". Step 3 of page 40-4 of the plans requires the priming of the interior of the flap torque tubes. Can anyone shed some light as to how one primes the interior of tubes? This has me stumped. Given the tubes are steel, what does one use as a primer. Ooops, I just started another primer thread. Inquiring minds need to know.. Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
Date: Feb 17, 2008
That is the way I did it, had no problems... Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 4:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine before the upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those that have installed the engine first, was there any issue with alignment of the upper fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with pre-loading the engine mount and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on? cheers, Ron _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the airflow to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct has less convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist in air flow. It's the same duct used for routing air to race car disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for ~$150 delivered (from recollection). I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he seems to be pleased with this simple mod. It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below). If anyone is interested please contact me off list. Robin Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com Duct.jpg "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana Count
y, Santa Teresa, NM
Date: Feb 18, 2008
LOE 2008 will most likely be the first weekend in October. Russ Daves N710RV - Flying RV-10 N65RV - Sold RV-6A N_____?? - RV-7 waiting on QB Fuselage Check out the following posts from VAFWWW: According to the latest posting to www.swrfi.com , the "powers that be" have moved the SWRFI to the second weekend of October, starting in 2008. __________________ Mike Reddick VAF#153 RV6A N167CW 600+ HRS Ft Worth, TX (T67) Stan Shannon (SWRFI) emailed me about the new dates a couple of weeks back asking for input. I gave him Red Marron and Larry Vetterman's contact info (the two guys that have historically chosen the LOE date) and asked him to contact them. Although I'm not certain he did call, I would assume that Red and Larry would not chose to have LOE on the same weekend as SWRFI. I'm certain Stan knows that if he has SWRFI and LOE competing it will really eat into the RV attendance at his event. The beauty of LOE is its mobility, so I'm pretty sure there will not be a conflict. Best, Doug __________________ Doug Reeves Owner: Delta Romeo, LLC. I talked with Larry V and Red both and was told LOE was the first weekend in Oct.--therefore we chose the second weekend even though we wanted the first weekend. We do not want to conflict with this great event. Stan Shannon CEO-EAA TEXAS RV-6, RV-9, Rv-9a ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
Thanks, Lew. I'm interested in the console, but am making every effort to keep the weight down to enhance performance and fuel economy. My RV-4 is an old one, and very light with an empty weight of less than 920 lbs. Even with only 150 hp, I can run off and leave most 180 hp RV-4's because they weigh so much more. That has convinced me of the importance of not adding any weight that it not absolutely essential to flight safety. As Bill Stout (designer of the Ford Trimotor) said when asked the secret of good aircraft design, "Simplicate, and add Lightness". Jack Phillips #40610 Trying to keep it light -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting OK Jack, I took my digital postage scales over and weighed the Blazer console -- 4 lbs. 4 oz. That's as is, probably could be stripped down some. I'll attach a couple of pictures. Here's a comment I think is worth sharing from Paul: "Hi Lew, We have the overhead console you describe and I was very excited by the prospects of outside air temp display but my bubble was burst. It seems you also need the vehicle ECU to handle the input from the RTD probe and the output to the overhead display. I learned a lot about it by searching the web. I still really like the console, though. I swapped out the resistive filament bulbs with LED's and have the current draw down to less than .1 amps. Paul Hahn #40203" -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164478#164478 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ovrhd2_124.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/ovrhd1_140.jpg _________________________________________________ or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Date: Feb 18, 2008
I just started my wing kit today. When I started to cleco the spar extensions to the spar, I noticed that they weren't square. The last 24% or so of the spar width, the joint starts to get larger to the point there is about an 1/8" gap and the end isn't too well aligned. I've attached pictures for reference. Should I be concerned? I've copied Van's Support on this as well, but they are closed for President's Day and was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Mine have a slight gap but nothing like yours.. there is a 1/16 gap but it's consistent along the whole way, not like yours that appear to be crooked. Pascal 470 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question I just started my wing kit today. When I started to cleco the spar extensions to the spar, I noticed that they weren't square. The last 24% or so of the spar width, the joint starts to get larger to the point there is about an 1/8" gap and the end isn't too well aligned. I've attached pictures for reference. Should I be concerned? I've copied Van's Support on this as well, but they are closed for President's Day and was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. Thanks, Bob #40684 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2883 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Bob, Mine was similar..cleco the skins to the spar and see how it lines up. If I recall it was not an issue after the skins were put on with clecos..everyt hing lined up all right. Rick Sked ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:14:18 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question I just started my wing kit today.=C2-=C2- When I started to cleco the s par extensions to the spar, I noticed that they weren=99t square.=C2 - The last 24% or so of the spar width, the joint starts to get larger to the point there is about an 1/8=9D gap and the end isn=99t too well aligned. I=99ve attached pictures for reference. Should I be concerned? I=99ve copied Van=99s Support on this as well, but they are clo sed for President=99s Day and was hoping to get some other opinions o n the subject. Thanks, Bob #40684 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signatur e database 2883 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Bob, it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but from what I can see the problem appears to be with the bend/radius on the extensions. If they were bent improperly there will be a difference in the alignment of the holes that are drilled/punched into the spar caps for attachment of the wing skins. When you look at the holes in the main spar caps and lay a straight edge through the center of them, does it contact/overlay the holes in the extensions at precisely the same place? >From the pic it looks like there may be a slight misallignment. I'm not sure what to make of the gap that Pascal noted between the main spar and the extension, I'm not sure how much of the load is carried by having the pieces butted flush versus through the doublers. Here's a link to what mine looked like at the time. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2013%20Main%20Spar/slides/DSC01318.html Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Bob Leffler wrote: > > was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bob > > #40684 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 2008
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
BOB CHECKED MY SO-BUILD WING S I DID MONTHS AGO, MINE ARR PERFICT AND SQUARE, NO GAPS OR SPACES. SUGGEST GIVING VANS SUPPORT A CALL AND SEND PHOTOS TO DAVE LUDD NJ #40466 **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
I concur, my attachment piece looks the same as yours Deems. I forget if the placement of the doublers plays a piece in the alignment as well. Have you tried moving the doublers around and seeing if they fit any better? Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > Bob, it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but from what I can see > the problem appears to be with the bend/radius on the extensions. If they > were bent improperly there will be a difference in the alignment of the > holes that are drilled/punched into the spar caps for attachment of the > wing skins. When you look at the holes in the main spar caps and lay a > straight edge through the center of them, does it contact/overlay the > holes in the extensions at precisely the same place? >>From the pic it looks like there may be a slight misallignment. > > I'm not sure what to make of the gap that Pascal noted between the main > spar and the extension, I'm not sure how much of the load is carried by > having the pieces butted flush versus through the doublers. Here's a link > to what mine looked like at the time. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2013%20Main%20Spar/slides/DSC01318.html > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Bob Leffler wrote: >> >> was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Bob >> >> #40684 >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Date: Feb 18, 2008
There doesn't appear to be much room to play with. Once the clecos are in, they don't move at all. I'm going back out in a few minutes to determine if it's the spar extender or the spar itself that may not be square. Interesting enough, the gap is on the top of one spar and the bottom of the other, so I suspect the problem is with the extenders since they are identical parts. It will be interesting to see what Van's say tomorrow when they open. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question I concur, my attachment piece looks the same as yours Deems. I forget if the placement of the doublers plays a piece in the alignment as well. Have you tried moving the doublers around and seeing if they fit any better? Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > Bob, it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but from what I can see > the problem appears to be with the bend/radius on the extensions. If they > were bent improperly there will be a difference in the alignment of the > holes that are drilled/punched into the spar caps for attachment of the > wing skins. When you look at the holes in the main spar caps and lay a > straight edge through the center of them, does it contact/overlay the > holes in the extensions at precisely the same place? >>From the pic it looks like there may be a slight misallignment. > > I'm not sure what to make of the gap that Pascal noted between the main > spar and the extension, I'm not sure how much of the load is carried by > having the pieces butted flush versus through the doublers. Here's a link > to what mine looked like at the time. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2013%20Main%20Spar/slides/DSC01318.html > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Bob Leffler wrote: >> >> was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Bob >> >> #40684 >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2884 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2884 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Date: Feb 18, 2008
There doesn't appear to be much room to play with. Once the clecos are in, they don't move at all. I'm going back out in a few minutes to determine if it's the spar extender or the spar itself that may not be square. Interesting enough, the gap is on the top of one spar and the bottom of the other, so I suspect the problem is with the extenders since they are identical parts. It will be interesting to see what Van's say tomorrow when they open. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question I concur, my attachment piece looks the same as yours Deems. I forget if the placement of the doublers plays a piece in the alignment as well. Have you tried moving the doublers around and seeing if they fit any better? Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > Bob, it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but from what I can see > the problem appears to be with the bend/radius on the extensions. If they > were bent improperly there will be a difference in the alignment of the > holes that are drilled/punched into the spar caps for attachment of the > wing skins. When you look at the holes in the main spar caps and lay a > straight edge through the center of them, does it contact/overlay the > holes in the extensions at precisely the same place? >>From the pic it looks like there may be a slight misallignment. > > I'm not sure what to make of the gap that Pascal noted between the main > spar and the extension, I'm not sure how much of the load is carried by > having the pieces butted flush versus through the doublers. Here's a link > to what mine looked like at the time. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2013%20Main%20Spar/slides/DSC01318.html > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Bob Leffler wrote: >> >> was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> Bob >> >> #40684 >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2884 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2884 (20080218) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
Dave, Where are you located?...I see NJ on your signature. ----- Original Message ----- From: DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:44:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question BOB =C2-=C2- CHECKED MY SO-BUILD WING=C2-S I DID MONTHS AGO, MINE ARR PER FICT AND SQUARE, NO GAPS OR SPACES. SUGGEST GIVING VANS SUPPORT A CALL AND SEND PHOTOS TO DAVE LUDD NJ #40466=C2- Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL Livin =========== ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Wing Spar question
"I suspect the problem is with the extenders since they are identical parts" By "identical" I assume you know there is a specific 1006E-L and a 1006E-R extender right? As long as the "extra hole" is in the right place on the outside bottom of both extenders you have the correct orientation. Just seems odd that there is the bottom and top gaps, makes me wonder what would happen if your switched them. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:56 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > There doesn't appear to be much room to play with. Once the clecos are > in, > they don't move at all. I'm going back out in a few minutes to determine > if > it's the spar extender or the spar itself that may not be square. > > Interesting enough, the gap is on the top of one spar and the bottom of > the > other, so I suspect the problem is with the extenders since they are > identical parts. > > It will be interesting to see what Van's say tomorrow when they open. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal > Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:30 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > > I concur, my attachment piece looks the same as yours Deems. > I forget if the placement of the doublers plays a piece in the alignment > as > well. Have you tried moving the doublers around and seeing if they fit any > better? > Pascal > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:30 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Spar question > > >> >> Bob, it's a little hard to tell from the pictures, but from what I can >> see > >> the problem appears to be with the bend/radius on the extensions. If >> they > >> were bent improperly there will be a difference in the alignment of the >> holes that are drilled/punched into the spar caps for attachment of the >> wing skins. When you look at the holes in the main spar caps and lay a >> straight edge through the center of them, does it contact/overlay the >> holes in the extensions at precisely the same place? >>>From the pic it looks like there may be a slight misallignment. >> >> I'm not sure what to make of the gap that Pascal noted between the main >> spar and the extension, I'm not sure how much of the load is carried by >> having the pieces butted flush versus through the doublers. Here's a >> link > >> to what mine looked like at the time. >> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2013%20Main%20Spar/slides/DSC01318.html >> >> Deems Davis # 406 >> 'Its all done....Its just not put together' >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> Bob Leffler wrote: >>> >>> was hoping to get some other opinions on the subject. >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> #40684 >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature > database 2884 (20080218) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature > database 2884 (20080218) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: V Speeds
To each their own, but I agree with you Steve, my goal during those first few hours with the plane will not be to do sight seeing but to verify if Van's numbers match mine. I'll do some stalls with and without flaps and get the basic information, if they match Van's numbers.. than by gee whiz I'll take their VNE numbers for what they are.. I am mostly concerned with the speeds I'll be using for landing and cruising, VNE is not something I care to "test" and Van's already did all that for me. If my numbers dont match, well than I'll work that out during the remaining test flights.. Pascal RV-10 future test pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 6:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: V Speeds > > I agree you don't want to exceed the design envelope for the plane, but it > seems to me you need to verify the V speeds you can during phase 1. If you > are afraid to test up to design Vne, your Vne should be set at the fastest > speed you are willing to test. Maybe I'm just weird, but to me phase 1 is > a test period, not a "flyoff", so explore the whole flight envelope before > you start filling up the other seats. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164198#164198 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: V Speeds
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2008
You can also check out the FAA's AC 90-89A amateur-Built aircraft and Ultralight flight Testing Handbook. I have been doing some light reading lately and went through it. It details all the procedures for the different speeds and the recommended sequence to do them in. It is outdated as far as glass and a little bit must be taken with a grain of salt, it is generically written, but it has helped me get a clearer picture of the sequencing of test procedures. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164995#164995 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: TruTrak Settings
Date: Feb 19, 2008
Flyers, We're spending a lot of energy trying to set up our TT autopilot. It's a DFII VSGV. I've set up others but this one's being finicky, especially in pitch. In the current configuration it's pretty jerky up and down, in small movements. If you're satisfied with your setup could you please share the vertical settings? torque vertical activity micro activity static lag 1/2 step Thanks, Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com N921AC 80 hrs, working well (less AP...) Done except interior ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: TruTrak Settings
I had the same problem, TruTrak people told me to change the vertical activity to 2 to 4, and Torque to 12, for the RV10. Dave Saylor wrote: > Flyers, > > We're spending a lot of energy trying to set up our TT autopilot. > It's a DFII VSGV. I've set up others but this one's being finicky, > especially in pitch. In the current configuration it's pretty jerky > up and down, in small movements. > > If you're satisfied with your setup could you please share the > vertical settings? > > torque > > vertical activity > > micro activity > > static lag > > 1/2 step > > Thanks, > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com <http://www.AirCraftersLLC.com> > > > N921AC 80 hrs, working well (less AP..) Done except interior > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Moving Day
Date: Feb 20, 2008
Yesterday I moved the plane to the hanger for final assembly. The trailer is now available for anyone in the SE US to move their plane if there is anyone interested. Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Moving Day
Date: Feb 20, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Gary, very nice looking (almost) plane! John 40328 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 6:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Moving Day Yesterday I moved the plane to the hanger for final assembly. The trailer is now available for anyone in the SE US to move their plane if there is anyone interested. Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2008
Subject: Re: Inside Oshkosh PBS TV Special
In a message dated 2/20/2008 8:27:36 AM Central Standard Time, Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes: I'm a non-cable subscriber, too.) Me to went dish many years ago...can't image being dependent on local channels for news and disinformation...as of late I've really been enjoying the Chinese New Channel...interesting perspective on International news...but was sad when they killed the Flying channel to go Military...enjoyed Dave's and Kyle's flying lessons and the building of the RV series. P **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Moving Day
Date: Feb 20, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Gary, What is the scoop on the front air filter/scoop. That's a mod I have not seen before. I am using an SJ cowl so I looks totally different than mine. BTW you should probably check to make sure the N number is large enough for the FAA. You are almost in the air! Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Moving Day
Date: Feb 20, 2008
I have a Barrett cold air induction and fabricated my own cowl. Yes the N number is 12" Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 2:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Moving Day Gary, What is the scoop on the front air filter/scoop. That's a mod I have not seen before. I am using an SJ cowl so I looks totally different than mine. BTW you should probably check to make sure the N number is large enough for the FAA. You are almost in the air! Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Moving Day
Hey wait ! I resemble that remark! :-D Funny thing, I've been on the phone and e-mail for the last couple of days with people who are working on 2 mods that I think every RV-10 builder will want. (I know I want them) Both of the designer/builders monitor this forum, but are a little shy about throwing their creations open to the scrutiny of this expert group. (They figured I was an easy and low risk mark :-P ). Actually I'm hoping that this e-mail might put some additional pressure on them :-X . And sniff them out. *_I PROMISE_* these will be the last two mods I make before the plane flies ! (I've got one more that's in the works, but that one is Major and will remain 'cloaked' until it's ready ) ---- don't you just LOVE the drama !!!!!! Gary, your bird looks terrific, I'm counting on you to shake out the OP systems. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Neal George wrote: > Careful, Gary. > > You'll give Deems ideas for more mods... > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net>
Subject: Moving Day
Date: Feb 20, 2008
Gary, Nice job. I love to see people who are innovative! Tom Ganster 40778 tailcone -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 8:29 AM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RV10-List: Moving Day Yesterday I moved the plane to the hanger for final assembly. The trailer is now available for anyone in the SE US to move their plane if there is anyone interested. Gary 40274 8:47 PM 8:47 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Subject: Re :hot tunnel issue
Just for your info. I say a TV news segment on a company that makes a light weight product that acts as a heat barrier. It looks like it might work on the firewall and in the tunnel. http://www.chapmaninnovations.com/ Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: inner tubes
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Feb 21, 2008
I want to order 'leak proof' inner tubes for 10. Vans says nose wheel is 500x5-6. do i get 500-5 inner tube??? I don't see any 500-6. main gear is 15x 600-6. I assume that is different from a standard 600-6?? anyone have experience with the different 'leak' proof brands. michelin quite a bit more expensive. thanks. lbb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165434#165434 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: inner tubes
Date: Feb 21, 2008
When it came to replace the tires on my 9 I changed to Michelin Airstop tubes at the same time, the originals Vans supplied leaked live sieves. I'd heard good things about Airstop tubes and I haven't been dissapointed - after 4 months and many, many landings I recently checked the pressure and they had barely lost 1 psi in 28. g -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10 Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:35 AM Subject: RV10-List: inner tubes I want to order 'leak proof' inner tubes for 10. Vans says nose wheel is 500x5-6. do i get 500-5 inner tube??? I don't see any 500-6. main gear is 15x 600-6. I assume that is different from a standard 600-6?? anyone have experience with the different 'leak' proof brands. michelin quite a bit more expensive. thanks. lbb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165434#165434 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules
Date: Feb 21, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I have invested the last five years (Full Time) in my passion for kit built aircraft. It was with deep personal interest I watched as Dr. Carl Cadwell completed with a handful of close personal friends the first evolutionary Epic kit built aircraft requiring it be done only at the kit factory in Bend, OR. Competitive forces led to the FAA and EAA triggering discussions and deep research on the archaic 51% rules. Many have strong opinions on this sensitive subject. I posed to Dick VanGrunsven his feelings at what was coming at our Pacific NW RV-10 Christmas Dinner (held at kit builder #40001 Dan and Sun Benua's home and with their gracious support). Dick seemed realistic as to the State of the Kit Building Economy. Enclosed as an attachment to this post is The FINAL FAA Document which is flowing towards an NPRM - Notice of Proposed Rulemaking. Your participation is critical. As I read the article, I concluded that the committee did a remarkable job at identification of the various problems and gives a hint at what will be required to correct the aberrations. I became more confident towards the end that the health of the industry for Individuals building their own aircraft for Education and Enjoyment is protected. I also concluded that the A & P mechanics who mass produce aircraft for sale and those untrained individuals with Business storefronts who repetitively construct packaged finished product to order, so that the guy or gal with the big checkbook can falsify their 51% completion of build tasks, is Near. This morning, It was with a heavy heart that I listened to the final TRACON minutes and seconds of an aircraft, whose owner, flying a Certified Aircraft (and the media made careful effort to try and label it as a Kit built) did not successfully complete his landing at PDX on Saturday Morning's dense fog. We had lost another (Kit built) 40 miles south, just seven days prior. There are lots of people who can buy the product who do not acquire the needed skill or maintain the proficiency to fly in our environment. Those who remain pilots pay the insurance premiums of those who came and left before us. Last night I attended a remarkable AOPA 5 Lessons (Mistakes) Seminar held by The ASF Team. This seminar was one of the most timely, practical and inspirational I have attended in 35 years of active flying. I am ever more vigilant that our skills need to be constantly honed and updated. Our kit building industry is about to get a needed cleansing. The professional build shops will soon operate with a new set of rules which will allow them their sales and us our Owner Built and Maintained niche. It was great to see many familiar faces in the mass of several hundred pilot enthusiasts. I hope you find this attachment of interest and usefulness. Get your NPRM comments ready. <> Fly Safe, Fly Often Live Long John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: inner tubes
I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight Custom III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6. I'm not sure about the difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity between a 6.00 and a 6.00-6. So far, so good on the tubes but I have only had them for one month. The tires are defiantly more beefy. I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly. Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra money. My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on the Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness is quite a bit more. Here is some data that Dresser posts on their site. http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT Good luck. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: lbgjb10 <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:35:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: inner tubes --> RV10-List message posted by: "lbgjb10" I want to order 'leak proof' inner tubes for 10. Vans says nose wheel is 500x5-6. do i get 500-5 inner tube??? I don't see any 500-6. main gear is 15x 600-6. I assume that is different from a standard 600-6?? anyone have experience with the different 'leak' proof brands. michelin quite a bit more expensive. thanks. lbb Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165434#165434 - The RV10-List Email Forum - Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much much more: --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - Same great content also available via the Web Forums! --> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web Site - Thank you for your generous support! -Matt Dralle, List Admin. --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Subject: Re: inner tubes
In a message dated 2/21/2008 2:01:08 PM Central Standard Time, gerf(at)gerf.com writes: Michelin Airstop changed to airstop's 5 years ago...they are very good...not so with the Michelin tires...wore out in less than 150 hours... **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules
Date: Feb 21, 2008
I'm curious, who are the "other interested parties" alluded to in the "Introduction" ? g _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules I have invested the last five years (Full Time) in my passion for kit built aircraft. It was with deep personal interest I watched as Dr. Carl Cadwell completed with a handful of close personal friends the first evolutionary Epic kit built aircraft requiring it be done only at the kit factory in Bend, OR. Competitive forces led to the FAA and EAA triggering discussions and deep research on the archaic 51% rules. Many have strong opinions on this sensitive subject. I posed to Dick VanGrunsven his feelings at what was coming at our Pacific NW RV-10 Christmas Dinner (held at kit builder #40001 Dan and Sun Benua's home and with their gracious support). Dick seemed realistic as to the State of the Kit Building Economy. Enclosed as an attachment to this post is The FINAL FAA Document which is flowing towards an NPRM - Notice of Proposed Rulemaking. Your participation is critical. As I read the article, I concluded that the committee did a remarkable job at identification of the various problems and gives a hint at what will be required to correct the aberrations. I became more confident towards the end that the health of the industry for Individuals building their own aircraft for Education and Enjoyment is protected. I also concluded that the A & P mechanics who mass produce aircraft for sale and those untrained individuals with Business storefronts who repetitively construct packaged finished product to order, so that the guy or gal with the big checkbook can falsify their 51% completion of build tasks, is Near. This morning, It was with a heavy heart that I listened to the final TRACON minutes and seconds of an aircraft, whose owner, flying a Certified Aircraft (and the media made careful effort to try and label it as a Kit built) did not successfully complete his landing at PDX on Saturday Morning's dense fog. We had lost another (Kit built) 40 miles south, just seven days prior. There are lots of people who can buy the product who do not acquire the needed skill or maintain the proficiency to fly in our environment. Those who remain pilots pay the insurance premiums of those who came and left before us. Last night I attended a remarkable AOPA 5 Lessons (Mistakes) Seminar held by The ASF Team. This seminar was one of the most timely, practical and inspirational I have attended in 35 years of active flying. I am ever more vigilant that our skills need to be constantly honed and updated. Our kit building industry is about to get a needed cleansing. The professional build shops will soon operate with a new set of rules which will allow them their sales and us our Owner Built and Maintained niche. It was great to see many familiar faces in the mass of several hundred pilot enthusiasts. I hope you find this attachment of interest and usefulness. Get your NPRM comments ready. <> Fly Safe, Fly Often Live Long John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules
Maybe people that make stuff for kits...like motors, tires, electronic equipment, etc... **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Perihelion dimmers
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Has anyone used these dimmers? http://www.periheliondesign.com/egpavr.htm * Any quirks? * It doesn't appear to be Pulse Width Modulated (a bonus) (data Sheet here: http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html) * ON/OFF switch is nice * How do they fit in the very limited space provided for by the RV10 switch rail? Thanks, Jay Up to elbows in fiberglass. Planning electrical to save my sanity. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165449#165449 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: battery master question
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Does Van's supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to buy it separately. I am at work getting ready to place a parts order and thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. Here's to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!! Do mods count as extra percentage points? If so one can build 105+% of the plane then. I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion :-) Thanks, -Ben Westfall PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: battery master question
Date: Feb 21, 2008
No, neither the battery master nor the starter solenoid are included in the kit. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Feb 21, 2008, at 5:20 PM, Ben Westfall wrote: > Does Van=92s supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to > buy it separately. I am at work getting ready to place a parts > order and thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. > > Here=92s to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire > thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!! Do mods count > as extra percentage points? If so one can build 105+% of the plane > then. I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion J > > Thanks, > > -Ben Westfall > PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: battery master question
Ben, You have to buy it seperate or I believe it comes in the wring kit. Rick Sked ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 2:20:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: battery master question Does Van=99s supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to b uy it separately. =C2-I am at work getting ready to place a parts order a nd thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. Here=99s to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!!=C2- Do mods count as extra percentage points?=C2- If so one can build 105+% of the plane then .=C2- I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion J Thanks, -Ben Westfall PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: battery master question
Date: Feb 21, 2008
They do come with Vans Wiring Kit for the 10. Jeff Carpenter 40304 Fuse/Wiring/Plumbing/Good Times On Feb 21, 2008, at 2:20 PM, Ben Westfall wrote: > Does Van=92s supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to > buy it separately. I am at work getting ready to place a parts > order and thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. > > Here=92s to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire > thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!! Do mods count > as extra percentage points? If so one can build 105+% of the plane > then. I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion J > > Thanks, > > -Ben Westfall > PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <n8zg(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Perihelion dimmers
Date: Feb 21, 2008
Jay - I have two. One driving an LED strip from Stein. The other driving the LED map light, also from Stein. They're slightly bigger than the typical DPDT switch - not wider, but taller on one end. They seem to work well. Note that you only need a 1/4" hole. I've been VERY happy with Eric's service. Neal RV-7 N8ZG Baffles Has anyone used these dimmers? http://www.periheliondesign.com/egpavr.htm * Any quirks? * It doesn't appear to be Pulse Width Modulated (a bonus) (data Sheet here: http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html) * ON/OFF switch is nice * How do they fit in the very limited space provided for by the RV10 switch rail? Thanks, Jay Up to elbows in fiberglass. Planning electrical to save my sanity. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165449#165449 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Canning and Santa's gift
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 21, 2008
John, I want to thank you for your candid comments on oil canning problems with the last bottom outboard wing skins. I must have looked at your and Van's drawings a hundred times before I began. In short, my first skin was a success with an inconsequential "swelling" in one of the last panels. Doing the second one, my wife suggested (she's the head riveter) that we do the last part at a diagonal - starting from the rear spar outboard to the forward outboard rivet. It came out fantastic and was much easier to do, since you can bend the skin more without worrying about a crease. As you said, trimming the leading edge of the skin to fit was important. I found that a flat file took off the most metal with the smoothest edge - before a little scotchbrite, of course. For those of you getting ready to tackle those skins, I would suggest making absolutely sure the leading edge of the skin has some gap prior to the final match drill. Follow Van's suggestions but modified with John's pdf flow. Finally, consider the "diagonal scheme" for the outboard three ribs - it really worked and I'll be thanking my wife for weeks. Finally! I'm on to the Fuselage! John (lowly bucker) -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165496#165496 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Perihelion dimmers
From: "RV10 4JF" <ETskypilot(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2008
I have not used the Perihelion dimmers but I have made a few voltage regulators using the circuit in the data sheet. I use the LM 338 regulator which gives me 7 amps max output and 5 amps. constant current. For me, it is a pretty good regulator and reliable circuit. You should be pleased with the dimmer. JF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165498#165498 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
Date: Feb 21, 2008
TIMEOUT FOR HUMOR Arabs WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07 These are pictures of the wreck of a brand new A340-600, that had never flown. (never saw (1) hour in the air) Thank these French and their Arab friends for this bit of "comedy of errors". Nine employees of the Arab airline were in the aircraft, but "no employees" from Airbus were present. The Arab's taxied out to the run-up area. Then they took all four engines to takeoff power with virtually an empty aircraft. (They obvious didn't read the run-up manuals.) No chocks were set, (not that it would have mattered at that power setting). "Brakes will not hold it back at full power anyway". As it turns out the takeoff warning horn was blaring away in the cockpit because they had all FOUR engines at full power. The aircraft computers thought they were trying to takeoff but it had not been configured properly (flaps/slats, etc, etc). Then one of these brain surgeons decided to pull the "Ground Sense" circuit breaker to quiet the alarms. This fools the aircraft into thinking it is in the air."A big, big mistake"! As soon as they did that, the computers automaticlly "released" all the brakes. ("this is a Safety feature so that pilots don't land with the brakes on".)There was No time to stop and no one smart enough thought to reduce the max power setting..... So the rest is as you see it below. No one is talking, so who knows if there were survivors. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Filling tanks
Date: Feb 22, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Group: Before attaching the wings, I'd like to fill up the tanks, more to test the fuel quantity indicators than anything else. Is supporting a wing with 3-4 sawhorses, maybe with plywood on top, sufficient for the 180 pounds or so of fuel that will be in there? Thoughts? Suggestions? What have others done? Thanks, TDT 40025 - off the jacks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: A340-600
What a comedy of errors. Hey, wait a minute, those engine pods don't look too damaged.......... Could be another mod in the making? Fred Williams 40515 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - Where's
the Leadership? It's too bad the ARC couldn't agree on proposed rule changes, (for 'economic' reasons) so now we're left with the FAA drafting the changes. Its fairly obvious that based on the varied interests of the representative parties, that ANY changes that were considered were going to result in a financial hit to at least one of the represented segments. In this business world this is what happens when there is a Leadership void. Which is what I see happening here. What I find personally extremely disappointing is that the EAA, who at one time was the best representative for 'us' (homebuilders) seems to have become a victim of the 'special interests' and has followed vs. lead on this one. My letter is on it's way. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - Where's
the Leadership?
Date: Feb 22, 2008
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
And why would you be surprised that the EAA would be afraid to step up and defend homebuilders? The EAA has not really cared much for homebuilders since Paul Poberezny stepped down as President. Name all the airplanes that Tom P. has ever built (hint- the number is a single digit that starts with a "Z"). EAA has become the friend of anyone that will contribute money in the form of corporate sponsorships, giving us such aviation icons as the "Nestle Theater in the Woods". Don't get me wrong, I'm a friend of EAA and have been a member for a long time (33 yearrs), but in the last 10 years it has definitely gone in a direction I don't care for. After giving a great deal to homebuilding in the first 40 years of its existence, it has coasted ever since. Jack Phillips EAA #81225 RV-10 #40610 Will that SB Wing Kit never arrive? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:22 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - Where's the Leadership? It's too bad the ARC couldn't agree on proposed rule changes, (for 'economic' reasons) so now we're left with the FAA drafting the changes. Its fairly obvious that based on the varied interests of the representative parties, that ANY changes that were considered were going to result in a financial hit to at least one of the represented segments. In this business world this is what happens when there is a Leadership void. Which is what I see happening here. What I find personally extremely disappointing is that the EAA, who at one time was the best representative for 'us' (homebuilders) seems to have become a victim of the 'special interests' and has followed vs. lead on this one. My letter is on it's way. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ > * > * _________________________________________________ or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - Where's
the Leadership?
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Yes, Deems! Amen, Jack! One of life's great disappointments is the commercialization of what was once "our" organization. Much more not said. John Ackerman EAA 56868 RV10 40458 On Feb 22, 2008, at 8:38 AM, Phillips, Jack wrote: > > > And why would you be surprised that the EAA would be afraid to step up > and defend homebuilders? The EAA has not really cared much for > homebuilders since Paul Poberezny stepped down as President. Name all > the airplanes that Tom P. has ever built (hint- the number is a single > digit that starts with a "Z"). EAA has become the friend of anyone > that > will contribute money in the form of corporate sponsorships, giving us > such aviation icons as the "Nestle Theater in the Woods". > > Don't get me wrong, I'm a friend of EAA and have been a member for a > long time (33 yearrs), but in the last 10 years it has definitely gone > in a direction I don't care for. After giving a great deal to > homebuilding in the first 40 years of its existence, it has coasted > ever > since. > > Jack Phillips > EAA #81225 > RV-10 #40610 > Will that SB Wing Kit never arrive? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:22 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - > Where's the Leadership? > > > It's too bad the ARC couldn't agree on proposed rule changes, (for > 'economic' reasons) so now we're left with the FAA drafting the > changes. Its fairly obvious that based on the varied interests of the > representative parties, that ANY changes that were considered were > going > > to result in a financial hit to at least one of the represented > segments. In this business world this is what happens when there is a > Leadership void. Which is what I see happening here. What I find > personally extremely disappointing is that the EAA, who at one time > was > the best representative for 'us' (homebuilders) seems to have become a > victim of the 'special interests' and has followed vs. lead on this > one. > > My letter is on it's way. > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > >> * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: battery master question
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Watch out - the B&C contactor does not fit the RV10 firewall location.. On Feb 21, 2008, at 3:43 PM, Rick Sked wrote: > Ben, > > You have to buy it seperate or I believe it comes in the wring kit. > > Rick Sked > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 2:20:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/ > Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: battery master question > > > Does Van=92s supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to > buy it separately. I am at work getting ready to place a parts > order and thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. > > Here=92s to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire > thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!! Do mods count > as extra percentage points? If so one can build 105+% of the plane > then. I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion J > > Thanks, > > -Ben Westfall > PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) > > get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > p://forums.matronics.com > blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Subject: WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
David, Try at least to contain you bigotry with a post that begins with "Arabs WRECKED A340-600" http://aircrewbuzz.com/2007/11/new-a340-600-in-ground-accident-at.html Just because it was painted with the name of the Abu Dhabi carrier Eithad Airways you make the implication that "Arabs" are incompetent because they "wrecked" a brand new A-340-600. A quick search would have provided the correct, uncolored information but instead you posted clearly biased misinformation. Would it have been as comic had the aircraft been painted with British Airway colors? "At the time of the accident, there were nine people on board the aircraft, including two Airbus staff, and seven employees of Abu Dhabi Aircraft Technologies (ADAT). Five of those nine people were injured, but as of today only the two Airbus employees and one ADAT employee remained hospitalized. None of their injuries are reported to be life-threatening. Etihad Airways confirms that there were no Etihad staff involved in the accident." Sorry, I don't find humor in misinformation thinly masking bigotry. I guess that is why we should limit the subjects of this list to RV-10 related issues. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess -------- Original Message -------- > > TIMEOUT FOR HUMOR > > > Arabs WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07 > > > These are pictures of the wreck of a brand new A340-600, that had never > flown. (never saw (1) hour in the air) > > > Thank these French and their Arab friends for this bit of "comedy of > errors". > > > Nine employees of the Arab airline were in the aircraft, but "no employees" > from Airbus were present. > > > The Arab's taxied out to the run-up area. > > > Then they took all four engines to takeoff power with virtually an empty > aircraft. (They obvious didn't read the run-up manuals.) > > > No chocks were set, (not that it would have mattered at that power setting). > > > "Brakes will not hold it back at full power anyway". > > > As it turns out the takeoff warning horn was blaring away in the cockpit > because they had all FOUR engines at full power. > > > The aircraft computers thought they were trying to takeoff but it had not > been configured properly (flaps/slats, etc, etc). > > > Then one of these brain surgeons decided to pull the "Ground Sense" > circuit breaker to quiet the alarms. > > > This fools the aircraft into thinking it is in the air."A big, big mistake"! > > > > As soon as they did that, the computers automaticlly "released" all the > brakes. ("this is a Safety feature so that pilots don't land with the brakes > on".)There was No time to stop and no one smart enough thought to reduce the > max power setting..... > > So the rest is as you see it below. > > > > No one is talking, so who knows if there were survivors. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - Where's
the Leadership?
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Are you guys talking about the association who write about certified airplanes in the experimental magazine,and I thinks the grand prize for this year is a Certified airplane,Yeahh you rigth,its all lost in the big money. thats a shame . Hugo Terrosa RV10 #40456 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> > > > Yes, Deems! > Amen, Jack! > One of life's great disappointments is the commercialization of what > was once "our" organization. > Much more not said. > John Ackerman > EAA 56868 > RV10 40458 > > On Feb 22, 2008, at 8:38 AM, Phillips, Jack wrote: > > > > > > > And why would you be surprised that the EAA would be afraid to step up > > and defend homebuilders? The EAA has not really cared much for > > homebuilders since Paul Poberezny stepped down as President. Name all > > the airplanes that Tom P. has ever built (hint- the number is a single > > digit that starts with a "Z"). EAA has become the friend of anyone > > that > > will contribute money in the form of corporate sponsorships, giving us > > such aviation icons as the "Nestle Theater in the Woods". > > > > Don't get me wrong, I'm a friend of EAA and have been a member for a > > long time (33 yearrs), but in the last 10 years it has definitely gone > > in a direction I don't care for. After giving a great deal to > > homebuilding in the first 40 years of its existence, it has coasted > > ever > > since. > > > > Jack Phillips > > EAA #81225 > > RV-10 #40610 > > Will that SB Wing Kit never arrive? > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > > Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:22 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amendment and Revision to Kit Building Rules - > > Where's the Leadership? > > > > > > It's too bad the ARC couldn't agree on proposed rule changes, (for > > 'economic' reasons) so now we're left with the FAA drafting the > > changes. Its fairly obvious that based on the varied interests of the > > representative parties, that ANY changes that were considered were > > going > > > > to result in a financial hit to at least one of the represented > > segments. In this business world this is what happens when there is a > > Leadership void. Which is what I see happening here. What I find > > personally extremely disappointing is that the EAA, who at one time > > was > > the best representative for 'us' (homebuilders) seems to have become a > > victim of the 'special interests' and has followed vs. lead on this > > one. > > > > My letter is on it's way. > > > > Deems Davis # 406 > > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > > >> * > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
Date: Feb 22, 2008
I agree with William and furthermore, these types of posts have absolutely nothing to do with the RV construction community. David Clifford -------------- Original message -------------- From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> > > David, > > Try at least to contain you bigotry with a post that begins with "Arabs WRECKED > A340-600" > http://aircrewbuzz.com/2007/11/new-a340-600-in-ground-accident-at.html > > Just because it was painted with the name of the Abu Dhabi carrier Eithad > Airways you make the implication that "Arabs" are incompetent because they > "wrecked" a brand new A-340-600. A quick search would have provided the > correct, uncolored information but instead you posted clearly biased > misinformation. Would it have been as comic had the aircraft been painted with > British Airway colors? > > "At the time of the accident, there were nine people on board the aircraft, > including two Airbus staff, and seven employees of Abu Dhabi Aircraft > Technologies (ADAT). Five of those nine people were injured, but as of today > only the two Airbus employees and one ADAT employee remained hospitalized. None > of their injuries are reported to be life-threatening. > > Etihad Airways confirms that there were no Etihad staff involved in the > accident." > > Sorry, I don't find humor in misinformation thinly masking bigotry. I guess > that is why we should limit the subjects of this list to RV-10 related issues. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and > those who matter don't mind." > -- Dr. Suess > > -------- Original Message -------- > > > > TIMEOUT FOR HUMOR > > > > > > Arabs WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07 > > > > > > These are pictures of the wreck of a brand new A340-600, that had never > > flown. (never saw (1) hour in the air) > > > > > > Thank these French and their Arab friends for this bit of "comedy of > > errors". > > > > > > Nine employees of the Arab airline were in the aircraft, but "no employees" > > from Airbus were present. > > > > > > The Arab's taxied out to the run-up area. > > > > > > Then they took all four engines to takeoff power with virtually an empty > > aircraft. (They obvious didn't read the run-up manuals.) > > > > > > No chocks were set, (not that it would have mattered at that power setting). > > > > > > "Brakes will not hold it back at full power anyway". > > > > > > As it turns out the takeoff warning horn was blaring away in the cockpit > > because they had all FOUR engines at full power. > > > > > > The aircraft computers thought they were trying to takeoff but it had not > > been configured properly (flaps/slats, etc, etc). > > > > > > Then one of these brain surgeons decided to pull the "Ground Sense" > > circuit breaker to quiet the alarms. > > > > > > This fools the aircraft into thinking it is in the air."A big, big mistake"! > > > > > > > > As soon as they did that, the computers automaticlly "released" all the > > brakes. ("this is a Safety feature so that pilots don't land with the brakes > > on".)There was No time to stop and no one smart enough thought to reduce the > > max power setting..... > > > > So the rest is as you see it below. > > > > > > > > No one is talking, so who knows if there were survivors. > > > > > > > >
I agree with William and furthermore, these types of posts have absolutely nothing to do with the RV construction community.
David Clifford
 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "William Curtis" <WCURTIS@NERV10.COM><BR>> <BR>> David, <BR>> <BR>> Try at least to contain you bigotry with a post that begins with "Arabs WRECKED <BR>> A340-600" <BR>> http://aircrewbuzz.com/2007/11/new-a340-600-in-ground-accident-at.html <BR>> <BR>> Just because it was painted with the name of the Abu Dhabi carrier Eithad <BR>> Airways you make the implication that "Arabs" are incompetent because they <BR>> "wrecked" a brand new A-340-600. A quick search would have provided the <BR>> correct, uncolored information but instead you posted clearly biased <BR>> misinformation. Would it have been as comic had the aircraft been painted with <BR>> British Airway colors? <BR>> <BR>> "At the time of the accide nt, there were nine people on board the aircraft,
> including two Airbus staff, and seven employees of Abu Dhabi Aircraft
> Technologies (ADAT). Five of those nine people were injured, but as of today
> only the two Airbus employees and one ADAT employee remained hospitalized. None
> of their injuries are reported to be life-threatening.
>
> Etihad Airways confirms that there were no Etihad staff involved in the
> accident."
>
> Sorry, I don't find humor in misinformation thinly masking bigotry. I guess
> that is why we should limit the subjects of this list to RV-10 related issues.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and
> those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> >
> > TIMEOUT FOR HUMOR
> >
> ; >
> > Arabs WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
> >
> >
> > These are pictures of the wreck of a brand new A340-600, that had never
> > flown. (never saw (1) hour in the air)
> >
> >
> > Thank these French and their Arab friends for this bit of "comedy of
> > errors".
> >
> >
> > Nine employees of the Arab airline were in the aircraft, but "no employees"
> > from Airbus were present.
> >
> >
> > The Arab's taxied out to the run-up area.
> >
> >
> > Then they took all four engines to takeoff power with virtually an empty
> > aircraft. (They obvious didn't read the run-up manuals.)
> >
> >
> > No chocks were set, (not that it would have mattered at that power setting).
> >
> >
> > "Brakes will not hold it back at full power anyway".
> >
> >
> > As it turns out the takeoff warning horn was blaring away in the cockpit
> > because they had all FOUR engines at full power.
> >
> >
> > The aircraft computers thought they were trying to takeoff but it had not
> > been configured properly (flaps/slats, etc, etc).
> >
> >
> > Then one of these brain surgeons decided to pull the "Ground Sense"
> > circuit breaker to quiet the alarms.
> >
> >
> > This fools the aircraft into thinking it is in the air."A big, big mistake"!
> >
> >
> >
> > As soon as they did that, the computers automaticlly "released" all the
> > brakes. ("this is a Safety feature so that pilots don't land with the brakes
> > on".)There was No time to stop and no one smart enough thought to reduce the
> > max power setting.. ... >

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: battery master question
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Thanks all for the responses. I picked up Van's $17 contactor today on my way to work. On another note Van's has on display the AFS-3500 and AFS-3400 efis's there at the will call counter. I got to give props to Rob and all at Advanced Flight Systems. Their efis really looks sharp and has a lot to offer in the, for lack of a better term, "blue collar" efis choices (you know everything other than chelton / garmin / or OP). -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 8:33 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: battery master question Watch out - the B&C contactor does not fit the RV10 firewall location.. On Feb 21, 2008, at 3:43 PM, Rick Sked wrote: Ben, You have to buy it seperate or I believe it comes in the wring kit. Rick Sked ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 2:20:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: battery master question Does Van's supply the battery master in the kit or do you have to buy it separately. I am at work getting ready to place a parts order and thus cannot remember/verify if I have one or not yet. Here's to hoping that buying a standard kit and building the entire thing with the help of my wife meets the 51% rule!! Do mods count as extra percentage points? If so one can build 105+% of the plane then. I am thinking this makes Deems the % champion :-) Thanks, -Ben Westfall PDX #40579 (N109LB Reserved) get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Subject: Re: WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
In a message dated 2/22/2008 11:08:58 AM Central Standard Time, wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes: "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Suess William I agree with you but can you tell me what Dr Suess has to do with RV's? **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07
Date: Feb 22, 2008
Amen! Good on you William. Rob On Feb 22, 2008, at 12:15 PM, William Curtis wrote: > > David, > > Try at least to contain you bigotry with a post that begins with > "Arabs WRECKED A340-600" > http://aircrewbuzz.com/2007/11/new-a340-600-in-ground-accident-at.html > > Just because it was painted with the name of the Abu Dhabi carrier > Eithad Airways you make the implication that "Arabs" are incompetent > because they "wrecked" a brand new A-340-600. A quick search would > have provided the correct, uncolored information but instead you > posted clearly biased misinformation. Would it have been as comic > had the aircraft been painted with British Airway colors? > > "At the time of the accident, there were nine people on board the > aircraft, including two Airbus staff, and seven employees of Abu > Dhabi Aircraft Technologies (ADAT). Five of those nine people were > injured, but as of today only the two Airbus employees and one ADAT > employee remained hospitalized. None of their injuries are reported > to be life-threatening. > > Etihad Airways confirms that there were no Etihad staff involved in > the accident." > > Sorry, I don't find humor in misinformation thinly masking bigotry. > I guess that is why we should limit the subjects of this list to > RV-10 related issues. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't > matter and those who matter don't mind." > -- Dr. Suess > -------- Original Message -------- >> >> TIMEOUT FOR HUMOR >> >> >> Arabs WRECKED A340-600 at TULOUSE FRANCE 11-07 >> >> >> These are pictures of the wreck of a brand new A340-600, that had >> never >> flown. (never saw (1) hour in the air) >> >> >> Thank these French and their Arab friends for this bit of "comedy of


February 07, 2008 - February 22, 2008

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