RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dd
March 04, 2008 - March 16, 2008
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Larry,
Those bottom ones don't look like Camlocs, they look like screws with Tinnerman
washers. I know Vic sold the plane but is he still on the list?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Vic used camlocs all the way around. You can see photos here:
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/SunNFun_2006/Vic%20RV10/CamLocs/index.html>
>
> Larry Rosen
>
> William Curtis wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Guys,
> >> did anyone use camlocks for the bottom cowling mounts?
> >> Michael
> >>
> >
> > I am. Two per side on a 0.63 base. Four of each of the below:
> >
> > 244-16 Floting Receptacle 2.89
> > 4002-4 Camloc Stud 2.45
> > 4002-O Camloc Grommet 1.53
> > R4G Snap Rings 0.20
> >
> > I used these on the horizontal sides of my Cardinal to replace the SouthCo
fasteners and I like them a lot. Not enough however to use them in place of the
hinges on the 10 except on the cowl bottom.
> >
> > The above prices are from Spruce, however if you go to OSH or Sun-N-Fun you
can get them at the Aeromart for less. If you want to pay even more you can
get the adjustable receptacle version but since the -4 stud will fit the thickness
range of our cowling, I don't see any reason to use them.
> >
> > William
> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> > "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and
those who matter don't mind."
> > -- Dr. Suess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Greetings, Ron
=46rom the Avery Catalog :
"Special RV-10 countersink cutter for countersinking holes in cabin
roof for seat belt anchor points. High speed 100=B0 3-flute precision
ground 5/16" pilot X 5/8" body diameter X 1/4-28 threads."
Part #C516
Avery Tools, L.P.
111 Aviator Dr
Ft. Worth, Texas 76179 USA
1-800-652-8379
Marlys and John Ackerman 40458 - and the top is epoxied on today!
On Mar 2, 2008, at 7:43 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
>
> Forwarded second attempt from Patrick:
>
> Hi there John, could you please indicate the part number for the
> countersink available from Avery as I would like to obtain one to be
> sent downunder.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
Hey who's using hinges for the lower cowl?! Don't do it. Actually, I'm
chiming in late but seems like most folks are aware of this issue. Hinges
were not a problem in my -6. They did not last past 5 hours in the -10.
They eyelets broke one at a time. Just on the left side. I replaced that
side with nutplates/screws then the other side started to break, one eyelet
at a time. Eventually I fixed both sides. I made the plates out of the old
instrument panel. Didn't need shims since the hinge halves lined up in the
first place. I didn't want to patch up the existing holes on the cowl where
the rivets used to be so I used six #8 nutplates/screws per side, with C/S
washers. Very solid as you would imagine.
Anh
N591VU - flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
>
>
> Scott here's a link to 2 photos (click next to see the 2nd)
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2047%20Spinner%20and%20Cowling/slides/DSC04175.html
> I've since trimmed the inside portion of the 'flange' so that it doesn't
> stick out and interfere with the air exiting the lower cowl. (A John Cox
> suggestion)
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>>
>> Can someone point me to some photos. This is a modification I would like
>> to make. I've already lost 2 eyelets.
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>> On Mar 3, 2008, at 12:30 PM, Rick Sked wrote:
>>
>>
>> I made mine out of .063 aluminum, I think I used #8, three per side.
>>
>> Rick Sked
>> 40185
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 8:33:55 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
>>
>>
>> Not countersunk screws....round head screws. Yes,
>> they're holding up great for people, and there are
>> some now that I know personally (I'll let them speak up
>> if they wish) who didn't install them until after they
>> had issues with the hinges. But, there really are
>> no problems with nutplates and screws...it's really
>> secure.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> Vernon Smith wrote:
>> Looking through some of the old postings, I found some discussion on
>> replacing the lower cowl mounts with nutplates and screws. Are these
>> modified mounts still holding up well during flight? Also were #10
>> countersunk screws and nut plates used? And finally what was the mounting
>> plate made from?
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Vern Smith (#324)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
Hate to say it, but William you are correct :-) . I took a look at the
original photos and the bottom ones do not have the same markings on
that as the camlocs on the sides.
Larry
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> Those bottom ones don't look like Camlocs, they look like screws with Tinnerman
washers. I know Vic sold the plane but is he still on the list?
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and
those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>>
>> Vic used camlocs all the way around. You can see photos here:
>> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/SunNFun_2006/Vic%20RV10/CamLocs/index.html>
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>>
>> William Curtis wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Guys,
>>>> did anyone use camlocks for the bottom cowling mounts?
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I am. Two per side on a 0.63 base. Four of each of the below:
>>>
>>> 244-16 Floting Receptacle 2.89
>>> 4002-4 Camloc Stud 2.45
>>> 4002-O Camloc Grommet 1.53
>>> R4G Snap Rings 0.20
>>>
>>> I used these on the horizontal sides of my Cardinal to replace the SouthCo
fasteners and I like them a lot. Not enough however to use them in place of the
hinges on the 10 except on the cowl bottom.
>>>
>>> The above prices are from Spruce, however if you go to OSH or Sun-N-Fun you
can get them at the Aeromart for less. If you want to pay even more you can
get the adjustable receptacle version but since the -4 stud will fit the thickness
range of our cowling, I don't see any reason to use them.
>>>
>>> William
>>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>>> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and
those who matter don't mind."
>>> -- Dr. Suess
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a composite
guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on the exterior
or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to that point
but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard point
for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Another lesson with windows |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
If I recall what Dave Saylor did to his, when I took the class last month, I
believe that he drilled about 1.5"-2.0" core from the inside, then filled
with flox. Basically duplicating how the front belt attach points are
constructed.
Was your TC recommending you put a plate on top of the canopy?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2923 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2923 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another lesson with windows |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Printer (like in printing press) suppliers can supply 95%. You should be able
to get a gallon for almost nothing.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167808#167808
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
The flox method is fairly common and the easiest way to go. The question is,
do you drill it out from the outside or from the inside as most have done. Seems
that you would retain more of the inherent strength of the structure against
a pull out if it was done from the exterior.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
If I recall what Dave Saylor did to his, when I took the class last month, I
believe that he drilled about 1.5"-2.0" core from the inside, then filled
with flox. Basically duplicating how the front belt attach points are
constructed.
Was your TC recommending you put a plate on top of the canopy?
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2923 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2923 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
I think that we are missing the engineering that went into the design of the
hard point built into the current structure. Typically the foam is removed
in the area around the hole and filled with reinforcing material like
chopped fiber or flox. This is the same thing that the Glasair folks do.
This structure is sufficient to hold the shoulder harness.
Additionally, fiberglass structures are meant to flex long before they
break. Remember the wing on the Voyager during take off. By putting a
metal washer on the outside of the structure you are creating a failure
point at the outer edge. Think of it like this. If you took a one foot
long tube and slid it over your fiberglass/graphite fishing rod and flexed
it close to the failure point, it would fail prematurely at the end of the
tube because it was not allowed to flex inside the tube.
IMHO no additional structure is needed for the harness.
Gary
40274
It is all together, now what?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
FWIW I agree with Gary 100%. The area is already beefed up and if I
remember correctly the points were solid glass with no foam. I was starting
to wonder if folks were talking about additional points for a different
harness system. Provided that's not the case, I think the structure is good
to go as is.
Marcus
40286
Just about to hit 250 hours and loving it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I think that we are missing the engineering that went into the design of the
hard point built into the current structure. Typically the foam is removed
in the area around the hole and filled with reinforcing material like
chopped fiber or flox. This is the same thing that the Glasair folks do.
This structure is sufficient to hold the shoulder harness.
Additionally, fiberglass structures are meant to flex long before they
break. Remember the wing on the Voyager during take off. By putting a
metal washer on the outside of the structure you are creating a failure
point at the outer edge. Think of it like this. If you took a one foot
long tube and slid it over your fiberglass/graphite fishing rod and flexed
it close to the failure point, it would fail prematurely at the end of the
tube because it was not allowed to flex inside the tube.
IMHO no additional structure is needed for the harness.
Gary
40274
It is all together, now what?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
The flox method may be common and while it is stronger than epoxy alone, if you
read section 49, the Seats & Seat Belt section of the plans, the seat-belt hard-points
are NOT filled with flox. According to page 49-02 "These hard points
are a solid lay-up of glass (they contain no core material), and appear lighter
than the surrounding area." If you want to make additional hard-points, to
duplicate the hard-points for the front seats you should use lay-up of fiberglass
NOT flox.
I will be putting 3 Point harness in the rear and will use a Dremel to remove the
core material and to then rebuild with layers of fiberglass.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> The flox method is fairly common and the easiest way to go. The question is,
do you drill it out from the outside or from the inside as most have done.
Seems that you would retain more of the inherent strength of the structure against
a pull out if it was done from the exterior.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
>
>
> If I recall what Dave Saylor did to his, when I took the class last month, I
> believe that he drilled about 1.5"-2.0" core from the inside, then filled
> with flox. Basically duplicating how the front belt attach points are
> constructed.
>
> Was your TC recommending you put a plate on top of the canopy?
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
>
>
>
> I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
> composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
> the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
> that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
>
> So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
> point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
> To: RV10-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
>
>
> I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
> needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
> when needed. Any thoughts?
>
> Barry Marz
> 18735 Baseleg AVE.
> FT. Myers, Fl 33917
> 239-567-2271
> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
We have decided to camp at OSH this year. Are any plans developing to get
spots in Camp Scholler or park the 10s together in airplane camping?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Yes, there should be a large contingent of us there. Bob and Gary have
already started talking about RV-10 HQ 2008. Hopefully they'll get there
early and stake out our sites again this year. I'm sure there will also be
a few in airplane parking.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH
We have decided to camp at OSH this year. Are any plans developing to get
spots in Camp Scholler or park the 10s together in airplane camping?
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2925 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Gary and I plan on doing essentially the same thing as last year, only
question is exactly what day we'll "claim our ground". The past couple
of years we've gotten the sites on the Tuesday before opening weekend.
For some reason last year there were a lot more people there early and
combined with the 20 or so RV-10 spots, we wound up with the spread out
a little. After we get into April I'll take a poll and then post
exactly what we're doing.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH
We have decided to camp at OSH this year. Are any plans developing to
get spots in Camp Scholler or park the 10s together in airplane camping?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | neil <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi Guys
My wife & I are hoping to be at Osh for the first time this year.
However, for weight reasons we are not able to bring any camping gear.
We would love to stay on the field with everyone else, rather than a
hotel miles away (probably fully booked by now anyhow). Does any one
know how we could hire a tent or something for a couple of days? We
plan on arriving on the Monday, but have to leave Thurs AM. I presume
there is somewhere to wash, & I'm sure food won't be a problem.
We are really looking forward to meeting so many of you that we have
emailed / talked to over the last year or so.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
On 6 Mar 2008, at 17:00, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Yes, there should be a large contingent of us there.-- Bob and
Gary
> have already started talking about RV-10 HQ 2008.- Hopefully they=92ll
> get there early and stake out our sites again this year.- I=92m sure
> there will also be a few in airplane parking.
> -
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
> McNeill
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: OSH
> -
> We- have decided to camp at OSH this year. Are any plans developing
to
> get spots in Camp Scholler or park the 10s together in airplane
> camping?
> -
> -
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 2925 (20080305) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 2925 (20080305) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I was able to rent a trailer from Van Boxtel. They will deliver it from
Green Bay to Osh for an additional fee. http://www.vanboxtelrv.com/ Their
RVs (4 wheel kind) are a little expensive ($1,700) for the week, but their
tent campers and travel trailers were reasonable.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of neil
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH
Hi Guys
My wife & I are hoping to be at Osh for the first time this year.
However, for weight reasons we are not able to bring any camping gear. We
would love to stay on the field with everyone else, rather than a hotel
miles away (probably fully booked by now anyhow). Does any one know how we
could hire a tent or something for a couple of days? We plan on arriving on
the Monday, but have to leave Thurs AM. I presume there is somewhere to
wash, & I'm sure food won't be a problem.
We are really looking forward to meeting so many of you that we have emailed
/ talked to over the last year or so.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
On 6 Mar 2008, at 17:00, Bob Leffler wrote:
Yes, there should be a large contingent of us there. Bob and Gary have
already started talking about RV-10 HQ 2008. Hopefully they'll get there
early and stake out our sites again this year. I'm sure there will also be
a few in airplane parking.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH
We have decided to camp at OSH this year. Are any plans developing to get
spots in Camp Scholler or park the 10s together in airplane camping?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2925 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2925 (20080305) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shoulder harnesses |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Remind me what the motivation is to create new hardpoints on the
fiberglass for rear seat harnesses, instead of following the plans
method?
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Neil & Sarah:
One option would be to visit the Wal-Mart store near the field and buy
yourselves a cheap tent for $50, and a couple sleeping pads and sheets
for another $45. (Probably no need for sleeping bags in an Oshkosh
summer!)
Then just give them away to someone when it's time to leave . . .
TDT
40025
Hi Guys
My wife & I are hoping to be at Osh for the first time this year.
However, for weight reasons we are not able to bring any camping gear.
We would love to stay on the field with everyone else, rather than a
hotel miles away (probably fully booked by now anyhow). Does any one
know how we could hire a tent or something for a couple of days? We
plan on arriving on the Monday, but have to leave Thurs AM. I presume
there is somewhere to wash, & I'm sure food won't be a problem.
We are really looking forward to meeting so many of you that we have
emailed / talked to over the last year or so.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com> |
Or go to the UPS store on the field at OSH and ship them to your home.
It might also be possible to ship comaping gear to OSH and pick it up
when you arrive. I usually just ship it to a friend who lives within
driving distance of OSH and he shows up with my gear and his and we camp
together
Jack Phillips
# 610
Still waiting on the wing kit to arrive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Camping gear
Neil & Sarah:
One option would be to visit the Wal-Mart store near the field and buy
yourselves a cheap tent for $50, and a couple sleeping pads and sheets
for another $45. (Probably no need for sleeping bags in an Oshkosh
summer!)
Then just give them away to someone when it's time to leave . . .
TDT
40025
Hi Guys
My wife & I are hoping to be at Osh for the first time this year.
However, for weight reasons we are not able to bring any camping gear.
We would love to stay on the field with everyone else, rather than a
hotel miles away (probably fully booked by now anyhow). Does any one
know how we could hire a tent or something for a couple of days? We
plan on arriving on the Monday, but have to leave Thurs AM. I presume
there is somewhere to wash, & I'm sure food won't be a problem.
We are really looking forward to meeting so many of you that we have
emailed / talked to over the last year or so.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
notify the sender
immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
rohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
orsk - Portuguese
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Shoulder harnesses |
For belts like: http://www.inertialbelts.com/
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder harnesses
Remind me what the motivation is to create new hardpoints on the fiberglass
for rear seat harnesses, instead of following the plans method?
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Camping gear |
I think "ZK" is a long way to ship any gear either way...when you get to
KOSH, there are stores near by where you can go, buy a tent etc., heck you can
even take the bus to the NE corner and get off and walk through the security
fence...walk about two blocks to a strip mall, buy all you need including a
cooler and carry cart etc., and load it on the bus and make the trip back to the
camp ground or camp with a friend...the items you'll need are not very
expensive. The weather is usually hot and muggy in years past there have been
some interesting thunderstorms in the area. So don't camp in a low area...I've
been going to KOSH off and on since the 70's...been hot, buggy, cold and
wet--and that was just one day and enjoyed every second of being there.
Visit EAA's web site and you'll be briefed on what's there. The stuff sold
in the EAA stores is a bit expensive compared to local vendors but you don't
need to go off site to get some staples...there are bathrooms and shower
houses but you'll need your own kit. Don't leave anything valuable unattended
as
things have a way at walking at KOSH. They do have security, but this is a
public event and they do not have security like an airport. I think it's a
good safe place but when you're with the public you don't want to leave your
valuables in a tent and wonder. My son had his I-Pod go missing a few years
ago from our tent and the person left our rain fly open after robbing us only
to have a huge thunderstorm fill our tent and camping gear, making for a
soggy, wet night at Camp Stoller.
The area is huge, you can easily walk several miles from one end to the
other (they do have some transportation aides and buses) and with 100,000 or more
people per day going in and out it's occasionally a bit crazy.
I don't know how others feel, but the food on the grounds is just OK, some
aircraft clubs have dinners--book in advance, one EAA chapter has a pancake
breakfast, at the seaplane basin is a great fish fly--I believe you can get
tickets a head of time--the fried Perch is outstanding. You'll have a great
time, it's the best place to meet and talk aviation. Most don't make it to the
EAA Museum but since it's your first time going--please make a point to go
over to the museum...believe it or not the EAA HQ/Museum is not near the
convention...you've got to go look for it.
If you've involved in a local Chapter, and your president is not attending,
they can name you as there rep and you can be named to attend several closed
meeting for Chapter Presidents. But once again it needs to happen a head of
time...and I'm sure the RV group will help you in anyway they can...
Patrick
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
I think this year may be my first trip to OSH, as well. If someone is
starting a list, please add my name. Not sure who else will join me at this
point. Also, not sure how I'm arriving, whether by land or air, but will be
camping.
John J
40328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
This is passed on from Vic as a reply...
From: Vicsyracuse
I read the archives, but don't have time to monitor the list. Sorry. But
I saw your question. I used the skybolt fasteners top and sides, and 5
#8 screws with tinnerman washers on the bottom on both sides of the air
exit area. I did my rv-6 this way, and am doing the RV-7 the same. I
used .063 for the aluminum on the 10, but am using .050 on the 7.
Vic
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
William Curtis wrote:
>
>> Guys,
>> did anyone use camlocks for the bottom cowling mounts?
>> Michael
>
> I am. Two per side on a 0.63 base. Four of each of the below:
>
> 244-16 Floting Receptacle 2.89
> 4002-4 Camloc Stud 2.45
> 4002-O Camloc Grommet 1.53
> R4G Snap Rings 0.20
>
> I used these on the horizontal sides of my Cardinal to replace the SouthCo fasteners
and I like them a lot. Not enough however to use them in place of the
hinges on the 10 except on the cowl bottom.
>
> The above prices are from Spruce, however if you go to OSH or Sun-N-Fun you can
get them at the Aeromart for less. If you want to pay even more you can get
the adjustable receptacle version but since the -4 stud will fit the thickness
range of our cowling, I don't see any reason to use them.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and
those who matter don't mind."
> -- Dr. Suess
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camping gear |
or someone can let Neil borrow an extra one from last year that wasn't
given away ;-)
If I could find a way out there I would certainly bring a couple of
tents (they are small enough) and let someone borrow or have it. Also
consider many may think the same way and Walmart will be out of tents..
than what? I personally would not feel comfortable "winging it", but may
be a non issue if one is there early..
I will say Walmart does have great tents. I have done better in rain
with my Walmart than my Coleman ever did..
Pascal
wish I could go but have no way to get there ;-(
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 5:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Camping gear
Neil & Sarah:
One option would be to visit the Wal-Mart store near the field and buy
yourselves a cheap tent for $50, and a couple sleeping pads and sheets
for another $45. (Probably no need for sleeping bags in an Oshkosh
summer!)
Then just give them away to someone when it's time to leave . . .
TDT
40025
Hi Guys
My wife & I are hoping to be at Osh for the first time this year.
However, for weight reasons we are not able to bring any camping gear.
We would love to stay on the field with everyone else, rather than a
hotel miles away (probably fully booked by now anyhow). Does any one
know how we could hire a tent or something for a couple of days? We
plan on arriving on the Monday, but have to leave Thurs AM. I presume
there is somewhere to wash, & I'm sure food won't be a problem.
We are really looking forward to meeting so many of you that we have
emailed / talked to over the last year or so.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
Yep, we are talking about adding additional hardpoints in the rear just forward
of the rear bulkhead cover to support a different mounting point for the rear
seat belts.
In my caser the reason for not using the factory location back in the tailcone
is twofold. The first reason is because I will probably be using David's Amsafe
or similar retractable belts for at least the rear seat passengers. The
second is my hat shelf project eliminated the ability to run back to the longeron
points.
So just so we are clear, we are not talking about the factory hardpoint in the
top, we are talking about ADDING harpoints. You can see David's approach at
the link below. I believe he worked with some pretty smart guys in developing
his method so my question is more to help me understand the rationale behind
doing the work on the inside rather than the outside.
http://www.inertialbelts.com/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 6:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
FWIW I agree with Gary 100%. The area is already beefed up and if I
remember correctly the points were solid glass with no foam. I was starting
to wonder if folks were talking about additional points for a different
harness system. Provided that's not the case, I think the structure is good
to go as is.
Marcus
40286
Just about to hit 250 hours and loving it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I think that we are missing the engineering that went into the design of the
hard point built into the current structure. Typically the foam is removed
in the area around the hole and filled with reinforcing material like
chopped fiber or flox. This is the same thing that the Glasair folks do.
This structure is sufficient to hold the shoulder harness.
Additionally, fiberglass structures are meant to flex long before they
break. Remember the wing on the Voyager during take off. By putting a
metal washer on the outside of the structure you are creating a failure
point at the outer edge. Think of it like this. If you took a one foot
long tube and slid it over your fiberglass/graphite fishing rod and flexed
it close to the failure point, it would fail prematurely at the end of the
tube because it was not allowed to flex inside the tube.
IMHO no additional structure is needed for the harness.
Gary
40274
It is all together, now what?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camping gear |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> I don't know how others feel, but the food on the grounds is just OK,
That's the truth! I finally gave up last year and drove out for every meal.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168071#168071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Shoulder Harness Hardpoint |
The approach David used looks sound to me. I think that he worked on the
inside because it is more forgiving of the additional layers of glass he
used to cover the hard points. The head liner will not show those
additional layers he used to connect all the hard points.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
Yep, we are talking about adding additional hardpoints in the rear just
forward of the rear bulkhead cover to support a different mounting point for
the rear seat belts.
In my caser the reason for not using the factory location back in the
tailcone is twofold. The first reason is because I will probably be using
David's Amsafe or similar retractable belts for at least the rear seat
passengers. The second is my hat shelf project eliminated the ability to
run back to the longeron points.
So just so we are clear, we are not talking about the factory hardpoint in
the top, we are talking about ADDING harpoints. You can see David's
approach at the link below. I believe he worked with some pretty smart guys
in developing his method so my question is more to help me understand the
rationale behind doing the work on the inside rather than the outside.
http://www.inertialbelts.com/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 6:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
FWIW I agree with Gary 100%. The area is already beefed up and if I
remember correctly the points were solid glass with no foam. I was starting
to wonder if folks were talking about additional points for a different
harness system. Provided that's not the case, I think the structure is good
to go as is.
Marcus
40286
Just about to hit 250 hours and loving it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I think that we are missing the engineering that went into the design of the
hard point built into the current structure. Typically the foam is removed
in the area around the hole and filled with reinforcing material like
chopped fiber or flox. This is the same thing that the Glasair folks do.
This structure is sufficient to hold the shoulder harness.
Additionally, fiberglass structures are meant to flex long before they
break. Remember the wing on the Voyager during take off. By putting a
metal washer on the outside of the structure you are creating a failure
point at the outer edge. Think of it like this. If you took a one foot
long tube and slid it over your fiberglass/graphite fishing rod and flexed
it close to the failure point, it would fail prematurely at the end of the
tube because it was not allowed to flex inside the tube.
IMHO no additional structure is needed for the harness.
Gary
40274
It is all together, now what?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I talked to my TC a while back about this subject and while he isn't a
composite guy, he thought that it made more sense to make the hardpoint on
the exterior or the cabin top. I planned to look into it more once I got to
that point but this seems to be a good time to discuss.
So what do the composite guys like Gary and Dave think? In adding a hard
point for seatbelts to the canopy should it be from the inside or outside?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder Harness Hardpoint
I am wondering if the hard-point for the shoulder harness connection
needs to be reinforced or have a washer added on top, so it will work
when needed. Any thoughts?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camping gear |
I can tell you that thanks to Brenda, Susan, Andrea, and several other spouses
that I can't remember their names, the folks at RV-10 HQ ate quite well most of
the week.
If you like corn, you were in heaven, thanks to Adrian.
>
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
> Date: 2008/03/06 Thu PM 02:08:20 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Camping gear
>
>
>
> > I don't know how others feel, but the food on the grounds is just OK,
>
>
> That's the truth! I finally gave up last year and drove out for every meal.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another lesson with windows |
I got 99% iso alcohol from Safeway Supermarket pharmacy shelves.
Paul Hahn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Has anyone tried stainless steel piano hinge on the lower cowl rather
than the standard aluminium ones? If not, I will give it a try.
Cheers,
Ron
Finshing the cowl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, 5 March 2008 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
Hey who's using hinges for the lower cowl?! Don't do it. Actually, I'm
chiming in late but seems like most folks are aware of this issue.
Hinges were not a problem in my -6. They did not last past 5 hours in
the -10.
They eyelets broke one at a time. Just on the left side. I replaced
that side with nutplates/screws then the other side started to break,
one eyelet at a time. Eventually I fixed both sides. I made the plates
out of the old instrument panel. Didn't need shims since the hinge
halves lined up in the first place. I didn't want to patch up the
existing holes on the cowl where the rivets used to be so I used six #8
nutplates/screws per side, with C/S washers. Very solid as you would
imagine.
Anh
N591VU - flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
>
>
> Scott here's a link to 2 photos (click next to see the 2nd)
>
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2047%20Spinner%20and%20Cowling/slides/DSC
04175.html
> I've since trimmed the inside portion of the 'flange' so that it
doesn't
> stick out and interfere with the air exiting the lower cowl. (A John
Cox
> suggestion)
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>>
>> Can someone point me to some photos. This is a modification I would
like
>> to make. I've already lost 2 eyelets.
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>> On Mar 3, 2008, at 12:30 PM, Rick Sked
wrote:
>>
>>
>> I made mine out of .063 aluminum, I think I used #8, three per side.
>>
>> Rick Sked
>> 40185
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 8:33:55 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
>>
>>
>> Not countersunk screws....round head screws. Yes,
>> they're holding up great for people, and there are
>> some now that I know personally (I'll let them speak up
>> if they wish) who didn't install them until after they
>> had issues with the hinges. But, there really are
>> no problems with nutplates and screws...it's really
>> secure.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> Vernon Smith wrote:
>> Looking through some of the old postings, I found some discussion on
>> replacing the lower cowl mounts with nutplates and screws. Are these
>> modified mounts still holding up well during flight? Also were #10
>> countersunk screws and nut plates used? And finally what was the
mounting
>> plate made from?
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Vern Smith (#324)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camping gear |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I for one found the friendliness of the group and the quality of food
beyond question. I concur that the EAA provided vending choices "On
Campus" to be only OK. So I concluded this comment was not the ladies
of RV-10 HQ but rather the high priced, mediocre concessionaires.
I too ate most breakfasts and most dinners off campus. The only
consistent exception was a soft ice-cream cone each afternoon and a trip
with friends to the trunk of my car where I had an iced stash of bottle
water and YES, cold Wisconsin suds and other sundry Air Show watching
food products. Those of you who rallied round the trunk know that I
have dialed in OSH.
Several of the EAA local chapters in our area chose to rendezvous each
night at a quality restaurant around the greater OSH area. Often that
locale can be far south as Fond du Lac or up into Appleton. The Warbird
crowd I have been seen slumming with, tends to pillage the local
restaurants around the UW-Oshkosh campus. We might just start a list of
twenty of the best restaurants found.
Each year the internet connection capability improves substantially.
Why I can even remember when there was no McDonalds on the grounds.
Years ago there used to be a Walmart right up the street. It is now
closed but the next closest one is about 20 miles south of RV-10
Headquarters on the West side of State Highway 41 (which is right
outside the front entrance). It is where that water, beer and sundry
items are acquired. As Mike Sausen can tell you, I ship ahead all my
clothing inside a large cooler. The cooler gets immediately converted
upon touchdown in Wisconsin.
Bob & Bob & Tim, I for one have appreciated your efforts... And you too
Michael.
John Cox
#40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rv(at)thelefflers.com
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Camping gear
I can tell you that thanks to Brenda, Susan, Andrea, and several other
spouses that I can't remember their names, the folks at RV-10 HQ ate
quite well most of the week.
If you like corn, you were in heaven, thanks to Adrian.
>
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
> Date: 2008/03/06 Thu PM 02:08:20 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Camping gear
>
>
>
> > I don't know how others feel, but the food on the grounds is just
OK,
>
>
> That's the truth! I finally gave up last year and drove out for every
meal.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear list,
My -10 build includes the SJ Cowl and a Hartzell BA prop. My
understanding is that the James Cowl requires a 14" spinner. I know that
Deems and others with the James Cowl are using different props that seem
to ship with the spinner. Nice for them!
I have sourced a Hartzell A-2297 metal spinner which Hartzell
says is 13.9" x 17.6". I am not sure what I am more surprised about
Hartzell not having a single photo, rendering or dimensional drawing /
spec sheet on the spinner or that they want either side of $2,000 for
the spinner. (Polished $2,073, unpolished $1,791). Geeeez
Is there anyone out there using the James cowl/Hartzell BA
combination that has solved this issue already?
BTW I have contacted Whirl Wind, Aero Composites & UHS and none
of them have, make or sell spinners for this application.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-10
Plenum attached
Cowl on its way
Panel on its way
Bankruptcy on its way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues |
I contacted Hartzell and they confirmed the A-2297 is the right spinner for
the Van's BA Hartzell prop and the Sam James cowl.
I purchased a new polished Hartzell A-2297 spinner for $885 from Mustang
Aeronautics. The unpolished version is $785. Here is the contact
information:
Chris Tieman
Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
1470 Temple City
Troy, MI 48084
(248) 649-6818
www.MustangAero.com
Carl Froehlich
RV-10 (wings)
RV-8A (400 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues
Dear list,
My -10 build includes the SJ Cowl and a Hartzell BA prop. My
understanding is that the James Cowl requires a 14" spinner. I know that
Deems and others with the James Cowl are using different props that seem
to ship with the spinner. Nice for them!
I have sourced a Hartzell A-2297 metal spinner which Hartzell
says is 13.9" x 17.6". I am not sure what I am more surprised about
Hartzell not having a single photo, rendering or dimensional drawing /
spec sheet on the spinner or that they want either side of $2,000 for
the spinner. (Polished $2,073, unpolished $1,791). Geeeez
Is there anyone out there using the James cowl/Hartzell BA
combination that has solved this issue already?
BTW I have contacted Whirl Wind, Aero Composites & UHS and none
of them have, make or sell spinners for this application.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-10
Plenum attached
Cowl on its way
Panel on its way
Bankruptcy on its way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues |
Yeah, buy it from Mustang Aeronautics. I paid $885 + shipping for the
polished version. Best price I could find.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> I contacted Hartzell and they confirmed the A-2297 is the right spinner for
> the Van's BA Hartzell prop and the Sam James cowl.
>
> I purchased a new polished Hartzell A-2297 spinner for $885 from Mustang
> Aeronautics. The unpolished version is $785. Here is the contact
> information:
> Chris Tieman
> Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
> 1470 Temple City
> Troy, MI 48084
> (248) 649-6818
> www.MustangAero.com
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-10 (wings)
> RV-8A (400 hrs)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues
>
>
> Dear list,
> My -10 build includes the SJ Cowl and a Hartzell BA prop. My
> understanding is that the James Cowl requires a 14" spinner. I know that
> Deems and others with the James Cowl are using different props that seem
> to ship with the spinner. Nice for them!
> I have sourced a Hartzell A-2297 metal spinner which Hartzell
> says is 13.9" x 17.6". I am not sure what I am more surprised about
> Hartzell not having a single photo, rendering or dimensional drawing /
> spec sheet on the spinner or that they want either side of $2,000 for
> the spinner. (Polished $2,073, unpolished $1,791). Geeeez
> Is there anyone out there using the James cowl/Hartzell BA
> combination that has solved this issue already?
> BTW I have contacted Whirl Wind, Aero Composites & UHS and none
> of them have, make or sell spinners for this application.
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-10
> Plenum attached
> Cowl on its way
> Panel on its way
> Bankruptcy on its way
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place N423CF
arose.
Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone. Did not
fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
Rene'
N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
His price has increased to $915.00 plus shipping for the polished which
is still a heck of a lot better than $2,100.00
Thanks,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues
Yeah, buy it from Mustang Aeronautics. I paid $885 + shipping for the
polished version. Best price I could find.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> I contacted Hartzell and they confirmed the A-2297 is the right
spinner for
> the Van's BA Hartzell prop and the Sam James cowl.
>
> I purchased a new polished Hartzell A-2297 spinner for $885 from
Mustang
> Aeronautics. The unpolished version is $785. Here is the contact
> information:
> Chris Tieman
> Mustang Aeronautics, Inc.
> 1470 Temple City
> Troy, MI 48084
> (248) 649-6818
> www.MustangAero.com
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-10 (wings)
> RV-8A (400 hrs)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: SJ Cowl, BA Prop and Spinner Issues
>
>
> Dear list,
> My -10 build includes the SJ Cowl and a Hartzell BA prop. My
> understanding is that the James Cowl requires a 14" spinner. I know
that
> Deems and others with the James Cowl are using different props that
seem
> to ship with the spinner. Nice for them!
> I have sourced a Hartzell A-2297 metal spinner which Hartzell
> says is 13.9" x 17.6". I am not sure what I am more surprised about
> Hartzell not having a single photo, rendering or dimensional drawing /
> spec sheet on the spinner or that they want either side of $2,000 for
> the spinner. (Polished $2,073, unpolished $1,791). Geeeez
> Is there anyone out there using the James cowl/Hartzell BA
> combination that has solved this issue already?
> BTW I have contacted Whirl Wind, Aero Composites & UHS and none
> of them have, make or sell spinners for this application.
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-10
> Plenum attached
> Cowl on its way
> Panel on its way
> Bankruptcy on its way
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
Congratulations! Any pictures?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 6, 2008, at 9:35 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place
> N423CF
> arose.
>
> Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone.
> Did not
> fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
>
> Rene'
> N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone going to Sun-N-Fun through coastal Georgia please stop by KLHW near Savannah
and let's have lunch!
http://airnav.com/airport/KLHW
It's public use, though. NO PPR!
If I get some interest I'll ask to see if the FBO will give some sort of fuel discount
for Sun-N-Fun goers.
If nothing else, we're having a fly-in 26 April.
This is a new joint-use facility between the Army and the county based at the aged
Wright Army Airfield.
Rob Wright
#392
Finish and FFWD as parts come in
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
This is my favorite picture. The ground crew did a great job at making
sure
everything was working right.....pictures, not so much. But I have not
seen
them all yet......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
Congratulations! Any pictures?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 6, 2008, at 9:35 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place
> N423CF
> arose.
>
> Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone.
> Did not
> fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
>
> Rene'
> N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | First FlightRigging Questions |
OK, need some opinions........
I was very excited about my first flight today, but did have a heavy wing
and used a lot of nose down trim. It had me concerned. So tonight I went
through the archives and I think I have it figured out....
Heavy wing, single pilot and.......only used right fuel tank during first
flight. Not planning on switching tanks until the second flight. At the
end of the flight I had a full left tank and ~ 15 gallons in the right tank.
Can this type of in-balance lead to a very heavy left wing? Trim could not
correct it.
Elevator trim, needed to use a lot of nose down trim? At takeoff I added
about 1 second, maybe two of trim. Also had almost full nose down trim
during cruse. Is this normal? During transition training I don't remember
using as much.
After the flight, we went back over the elevator trim adjustment and it is
per plans...35degrees.
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
awesome.. congrats..
steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
This is my favorite picture. The ground crew did a great job at making sure
everything was working right.....pictures, not so much. But I have not seen
them all yet......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
Congratulations! Any pictures?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 6, 2008, at 9:35 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place
> N423CF
> arose.
>
> Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone.
> Did not
> fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
>
> Rene'
> N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LoPresti Speed mods e-mail |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I have received an e-mail from LoPresti's web site that has absolutely locked up
my mail program. It wants a user name and password that I don't even know. It
won't let me get back to my inbox.
A curse on his site!!!!!!
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168196#168196
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First FlightRigging Questions |
Rene',
First, Congrats! Next, I disagree with Jesse depending on the stage
of flight you're in, on the nose up/down trim. First, when you're
solo in the 10, you have tons of power and climb, and when you
hit the throttle you'll probably find that during certain stages
of takeoff you'll be pushing on the stick quite a bit unless you're
in trim. Out of the segmented LED, I usually have to take off
with the 3rd to 4th from the bottom segment lit. So yeah, it's
a bunch of nose-down trim during the takeoff roll. That plane
has so darn much power that takeoffs are a bit amazing...the thing
I remember most about the first takeoff is how unusual it was
when I first left the ground. The plane accelerated sharply as
soon as it left the pavement. The rolling resistance of the tires
was very significant, and when they free up, you get a good kick
in the a$$...it's way cool! But yeah, you'll be playing with the
trim on takeoff a bit. Then, when it comes time to land, I'd
agree more with Jesse....you'll be using quite a bit of nose up
trim and be on the other end of the scale. If you have full trim
deflection and it measures out correctly, I'd just say "fly it" and
get some time in so you can get the feel. It will feel more
natural over time.
As for the heavy wing....yeah, fuel imbalance in the -10 can get
you quite out of trim. The tanks are long and some fuel is far
from the center axis. The trim should be able to take care of
most of it. When I'm alone I notice it much more than when I'm
hauling people around. If you've still got a wing low, I'd
look at your aileron alignment, the shape and curvature of your
wing tip trailing edges, and your flaps. Make sure your flaps
are totally symmetrical, and that they're going all the way
up to the stops. If your flaps are symmetrical and your ailerons
are too, and the tips are nice, then aerodynamically you should
be fine. Then the key may very well be just what Jesse mentioned...
you may need to make sure your skid ball is centered. (Actually,
check that first...it's easy) There are some cool tools you
can use to center the skid ball if it's out to one side. They're
called "feet". :) If you're like most -10s, you'll probably
find that you'll need a wedge on the rudder if you don't have
rudder trim....and the common side is the left side. Being
out of rudder trim will make you hang a wing low. It's one
reason I liked adding rudder trim to the plane...When you're
flying long x/c you notice the little things....like a slight
tilt to the horizon...and it drive you nuts. Rudder trim lets
you get rid of that and make it perfect at any airspeed.
So have at it and enjoy the plane. Watch for anything critical,
but if it flies safely, get to know it and work through these
issues systematically and you'll find in the end that you can
make it fly perfect. Last night I had a beautiful night flight
and flew into downtown St. Paul with all the lights, and it was
just soooooo smooth...you're gonna love the plane!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> With just a pilot and fuel you should be using more nose-up trim than
> anything. If you are using nose-down, then something is wrong. This
> may sound stupid and I certainly mean no offense, but are you sure that
> you are trimming nose-down? Using most of (or at least a lot of) your
> nose-up trim would be fairly normal in this condition. I would check
> your trims and make sure you are getting your full deflection up on the
> one trim tab that goes up while the other remains in the center.
>
> What trim do you have to offset the heavy wing? I just flew in a fairly
> new RV-10 yesterday and it was flying one wing low until he trimmed the
> ball into the center. That leveled it right up.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Mar 7, 2008, at 12:01 AM, Rene wrote:
>
>>
>> OK, need some opinions........
>>
>> I was very excited about my first flight today, but did have a heavy wing
>> and used a lot of nose down trim. It had me concerned. So tonight I
>> went
>> through the archives and I think I have it figured out....
>>
>> Heavy wing, single pilot and.......only used right fuel tank during first
>> flight. Not planning on switching tanks until the second flight. At the
>> end of the flight I had a full left tank and ~ 15 gallons in the right
>> tank.
>> Can this type of in-balance lead to a very heavy left wing? Trim
>> could not
>> correct it.
>>
>> Elevator trim, needed to use a lot of nose down trim? At takeoff I added
>> about 1 second, maybe two of trim. Also had almost full nose down trim
>> during cruse. Is this normal? During transition training I don't
>> remember
>> using as much.
>>
>> After the flight, we went back over the elevator trim adjustment and
>> it is
>> per plans...35degrees.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Beautiful sight. Congratulations! Now comes the dull part. Sorry that you
have to fly instead of build. Poor guy!
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
This is my favorite picture. The ground crew did a great job at making sure
everything was working right.....pictures, not so much. But I have not seen
them all yet......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
Congratulations! Any pictures?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 6, 2008, at 9:35 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place
> N423CF arose.
>
> Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone.
> Did not
> fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
>
> Rene'
> N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
Ok, but y'all don't think the airplane is really "finished"? The second
thing my wife said was.......you are going to do something with that ugly
thing in the middle......the fiberglass console. I assured her that I would
do something, just did not commit to what.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 8:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
Beautiful sight. Congratulations! Now comes the dull part. Sorry that you
have to fly instead of build. Poor guy!
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
This is my favorite picture. The ground crew did a great job at making sure
everything was working right.....pictures, not so much. But I have not seen
them all yet......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Death of Van's Kit 40322
Congratulations! Any pictures?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 6, 2008, at 9:35 PM, Rene wrote:
>
> I am glade to announce that today kit 40322 died and in its place
> N423CF arose.
>
> Yes, first flight was today. Very exciting and a real milestone.
> Did not
> fly hands off, heavy left wing.......gives me something to work on.
>
> Rene'
> N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rsipp(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | Re: Death of Van's Kit 40322 |
Way to go Rene. Let us know what the wing heavy cause was when you find it.
Dick Sipp
N110DV close
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sean(at)hangerg.com" <sean(at)hangerg.com> |
Ok, so here goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to pull
the trigger and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if any
bigger induviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and 235
pounds, how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a
cherokee 180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So
subsequently my wife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort. So
I am looking for input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I like
the performance and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180 I'm
flying.
Thanks for the help.
Sean Garrison
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
The rudder trim system I have just installed seems to work very well. I
used
the same parts van uses for the aileron trim. I had already installed
and
wired in the LED trim indicator on my instrument panel and had a 5 wire
cable run into the tail cone when I built the plane. I neglected to put
a
trim switch on the panel at the same time so I had to add that. (I can't
remember why I didn't already have the switch installed - it sure would
have
made it simple then.) I made a pulley bracket that installs on top of
F-1035
Battery/Bellcrank Mount and positions the pulley approximately between
the
rudder cables. (Later the elevator trim servo motor mount will install
on
top of this bracket and use the same screws.) I couldn't think of a neat
way
to attach to the rudder cables so I ran additional cables from the
rudder
trim servo back to the rudder horn and attached them there. Only had to
drill 4 holes in the bottom skin to mount the trim servo and, if you
don't
count some missing skin and mild curses, installation was easy
especially
since I had already run the wires and the indicator was in place and
wired.
I picked up power and ground from the nearby flap switch. The pulley
bracket
is .032 with the edges bent up and a .032 doubler under the pulley. The
springs span a 12" gap just like the aileron trim system does but I may
add
a bit more tension. I sort of holds the rudder from swinging easily on
the
ground but really doesn't function as a gust lock.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma,
AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I think you will find it rather comfortable for a 4 place. There are a lot of
us corn fed boys on the list and I have yet to hear anyone complain about long
trips. I'm sure Tim will chime in here and he is another guy that is fairly
big. The few times I have been up for flights I never noticed a comfort problem
and I'm 6'2" and 260. I do have a lot of hanger time making airplane noises
though. :)
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sean(at)hangerg.com
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 10:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lurking about
Ok, so here goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to pull
the trigger and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if any
bigger induviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and 235
pounds, how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a
cherokee 180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So
subsequently my wife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort. So
I am looking for input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I like
the performance and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180 I'm
flying.
Thanks for the help.
Sean Garrison
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
Sean,
I'm currently pretty much identically sized as you....(wish I wasn't,
'cuz it ain't all muscle, but hey...I do what I can do)
I can tell you that the RV-10 has considerably more capacity than
what I take up. I am not at all large for that plane. You could
be taller, wider or both, and probably be just fine. When my
seats are cold, my head hits the top....until I warm it up
and the foam conforms better. I could fix that with baked beans
though.
I've flown > 10hr days and found it more comfortable than 2 hours
in the car. The standard Van's seats from oregon aero are
exceedingly comfortable.
You just won't be disappointed. Might want to go for a demo
flight just to prove it to yourself. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
sean(at)hangerg.com wrote:
>
> Ok, so here goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to pull
> the trigger and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if any
> bigger induviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and 235
> pounds, how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a
> cherokee 180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So
> subsequently my wife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort. So
> I am looking for input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I like
> the performance and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180 I'm
> flying.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Sean Garrison
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
Go for it. You will love this airplane. I've ridden in the demonstrator
and in my friends RV 10. Plenty of room. Enough for a center console if
you want it. Take the plunge.
Fred Williams
40515
sean(at)hangerg.com wrote:
>
> Ok, so here goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to pull
> the trigger and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if any
> bigger induviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and 235
> pounds, how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a
> cherokee 180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So
> subsequently my wife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort. So
> I am looking for input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I like
> the performance and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180 I'm
> flying.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Sean Garrison
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
You'll fit. However, you may need to convince yourself of that and find a
-10 to sit in. In fact, I'd be willing to say that you could fit two of yo
u and two 180-lb guys in the plane and not be cramped.=0A=0ARob Wright=0A#3
92=0Afinish/ffwd=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "sean@hangerg.
com" =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, March
7, 2008 11:37:00 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Lurking about=0A=0A--> RV10-List
message posted by: "sean(at)hangerg.com" =0A=0AOk, so here
goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to pull=0Athe trigge
r and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if any=0Abigger in
duviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and 235=0Apounds,
how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a=0Acherokee
180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So=0Asubsequently my w
ife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort. So=0AI am looking f
or input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I like=0Athe performa
nce and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180 I'm=0Aflying. =0A
=0AThanks for the help.=0A=0ASean Garrison=0A=0A---------------------------
-----------------------------------------=0Amail2web.com ' Enhanced email
for the mobile individual based on Microsoft=AE=0AExchange - http://link.m
==================0A=0A=0A _________
___________________________________________________________________________
=0ABe a better friend, newshound, and =0Aknow-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. T
ry it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marvin Mixon" <mmixon(at)fastspot.net> |
RV 10 tail kit for sale. $2,650. All parts completed except tail cone.
Houston, TX area. Marvin ' 281-342-7802
3/6/2008
9:07 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote:
> I was able to rent a trailer from Van Boxtel. They will deliver it from Green Bay to Osh for an additional fee. http://www.vanboxtelrv.com/ (http://www.vanboxtelrv.com/)? Their RVs (4 wheel kind) are a little expensive ($1,700) for the week, but their tent campers and travel trailers were reasonable.
>
We just signed up for the last available 16' trailer (at least that is what I was
told). We will pick it up as the delivery/set up fee was $400 big ones. Plan
on arriving either Friday evening or Sat AM. and leaving Thursday but might
stay until Fri early AM.
Getting close [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168283#168283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Sean,
I have a Cherokee 180 and my wife's #1 concern was legroom in the back seat.
Here's a pic from the back of Dave Saylor's RV-10. I'm 6'2", 230lbs and as
you can see there is plenty of room in the back seat. I can't remember if
it was Dave Ward or John Goodman in the back seat with me, but it was a very
comfortable ride. Nothing like a Cherokee. There was a good 6" between my
knees and the back of the front seat.
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP31012008A0002T.jpg
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sean(at)hangerg.com
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lurking about
Ok, so here goes. I have been lurking about and I am getting ready to
pull
the trigger and purchase my RV10 kit from vans but I was wondering if
any
bigger induviduals can chime in. I am a fairly large guy 6 foot 1 and
235
pounds, how comfortable is the RV10 on longer trips. I currently have a
cherokee 180 and the cabin room just isnt enough for my wife. So
subsequently my wife doesnt like to fly longer trips becuase of comfort.
So
I am looking for input prior to calling vans and placing the order. I
like
the performance and the cabin seems like its much larger than the 180
I'm
flying.
Thanks for the help.
Sean Garrison
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
So how did you get taller John? :-D
Is that airline work that elevating?
John W. Cox wrote:
> Bill is 6'4 and 285#, at the time I was over 6'2" and
> 235#. I am north of that now.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
Folks don't believe it because of the low seating position, but even the
oldest Mooneys are wider than both the Cherokee and the Bonanza. RV-10
has plenty of room.
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Sean,
>
> I have a Cherokee 180 and my wife's #1 concern was legroom in the back seat.
> Here's a pic from the back of Dave Saylor's RV-10. I'm 6'2", 230lbs and as
> you can see there is plenty of room in the back seat. I can't remember if
> it was Dave Ward or John Goodman in the back seat with me, but it was a very
> comfortable ride. Nothing like a Cherokee. There was a good 6" between my
> knees and the back of the front seat.
>
> http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP31012008A0002T.jpg
>
> bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Shrinking in height from ole age and the weight increase while trying to
match Michael Sausen... at the same time eating Tim's Chili.
I want an RV-10 figure like Rick Sked and Deems who are becoming only a
wisp of there former selves last year.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lurking about
So how did you get taller John? :-D
Is that airline work that elevating?
John W. Cox wrote:
> Bill is 6'4 and 285#, at the time I was over 6'2" and
> 235#. I am north of that now.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
Sean,
I'm 6', 260 heading towards 220. Mt time in the -10 was when I was
almost 320...and
I fit OK. You should not have any issues it is very roomy. The
back even
more so.
Rick Sked
40185
I have read all the posts and guess I better put my two cents worth in
as well. Since Rick Sked owned up to being a little heavy when he flew
my -10 (I was in the left seat and Rick in the right) I will confess to
being fat and happy as well At the time I was about 265 and am 5'10"
tall. With Rick at 320 and me at 265 the front seats were a little
crowded but I was not touching either the door or Rick's shoulder.
Admittedly Rick and I were only doing a local flight but size wise it
was a really good test. By the way on one local flight Rick was in the
back seat and with me and a 180 lb guy up front the -10 at Las Vegas
still performed like a winner.
Bob K. (6'2" and 210), his wife and mine flew back from Las Vegas to El
Paso along with full baggage and everybody was really happy with the
room in the -10. Guys in front, girls in back. No, I wouldn't be dumb
enough to post the weights of the wives!!! If I did my wife would see
to it I lost all my excess weight running away.
To give you a comparison, I owned three different C-182's, and the -10
is lots bigger inside than the C-182.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak" |
A February 2008 Aviation Consumer article on tires says"
"...Until recently, tubes were manufactured from a natural rubber
compound. Unfortunately, natural rubber is relatively porous and loses
pressure more readily than synthetic materials. Therefore, your tires
would lose pressure and go soft, too.
Enter the butyl rubber tube, now largely the standard among all aircraft
inner tube manufacturers. Since unused inner tubes are perfectly good
for installation, were not saying you wont find a natural rubber tube
out there on some shops shelf. Its perfectly serviceable, it just
wont hold air as well.
Goodyears Brown says the new butyl tubes, introduced some seven years
ago, improve air retention by a factor of about 10. Steve Chlavin of
Desser Tire, the GA industrys mega tire retailer, agrees, saying, "The
new butyl leak-resistant tubes just dont leak.""
It's fairly easy to add air to my RV-6A tires - the valve stems point
out, so the tire can be aired through a small hole in the fairing. The
situation is more challenging in a stock RV-10 (valve stems on the mains
point toward the axle, for example). With this in mind, does anybody
know whether the tires Vans shipped with the RV-10 kits are butyl or
natural rubber?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Garrison" <Sean(at)hangerg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
Thank you so much for all of the feedback it is very much appreciated. I
guess I will have to get my backside into a 10 and take a flight either at
Sun&Fun or with some fine individual that has a Florida. From the sounds of
it I will have plenty of room. I do have one question though How much room
loss will occur with interior work?
Thanks All
Sean Garrison
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 6:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lurking about
Sean,
I'm 6', 260 heading towards 220. Mt time in the -10 was when I was
almost 320...and
I fit OK. You should not have any issues it is very roomy. The back
even
more so.
Rick Sked
40185
I have read all the posts and guess I better put my two cents worth in as
well. Since Rick Sked owned up to being a little heavy when he flew my -10
(I was in the left seat and Rick in the right) I will confess to being fat
and happy as well At the time I was about 265 and am 5'10" tall. With Rick
at 320 and me at 265 the front seats were a little crowded but I was not
touching either the door or Rick's shoulder.
Admittedly Rick and I were only doing a local flight but size wise it was a
really good test. By the way on one local flight Rick was in the back seat
and with me and a 180 lb guy up front the -10 at Las Vegas still performed
like a winner.
Bob K. (6'2" and 210), his wife and mine flew back from Las Vegas to El Paso
along with full baggage and everybody was really happy with the room in the
-10. Guys in front, girls in back. No, I wouldn't be dumb enough to post
the weights of the wives!!! If I did my wife would see to it I lost all my
excess weight running away.
To give you a comparison, I owned three different C-182's, and the -10 is
lots bigger inside than the C-182.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Brake Temperatures |
Hi
I was wondering if anyone has ever put temperature probes near the main
brakes on the -10. I have read about a few cases where there have been brake
overheating problems on various RV variations that have resulted in
significant damage. It would seem that this should be a simple issue to
monitor.
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Power grid placements on AA panels |
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:
Where are you placing the primary and secondary power grids? Looks to
me like the forward surface of the subpanel would be okay; a little
hard to reach but doable. Also could the manifold pressure sensing unit
go there as well? I also plan to put the door closure indicator relay
units there too. All suggestions welcomed. Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
Howdy,
Is the problem at the firewall/cowl margin or between the
top and bottom cowl halves?
Is the hinge you replaced on the side or bottom of the lower
cowl? Would you have any pics?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
>
>Hey who's using hinges for the lower cowl?! Don't do it.
>Actually, I'm chiming in late but seems like most folks
>are aware of this issue. Hinges were not a problem in my
>-6. They did not last past 5 hours in the -10. They
>eyelets broke one at a time. Just on the left side. I
>replaced that side with nutplates/screws then the other
>side started to break, one eyelet at a time. Eventually I
>fixed both sides. I made the plates out of the old
>instrument panel. Didn't need shims since the hinge halves
>lined up in the first place. I didn't want to patch up
>the existing holes on the cowl where the rivets used to be
>so I used six #8 nutplates/screws per side, with C/S
>washers. Very solid as you would imagine. Anh
>N591VU - flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power grid placements on AA panels |
Jay, We are using the Acuracy Avoinics glass instrument panel and
center console in our 10 and we are working out the details now. We
have the version of the panel with the centered radio stack. We are
using AFS 3500s on each side and a center stack of a GMX-200 mfd and 2
garmin 430w. I think the real challenge is the cutting and
re-supporting of the three main instrument panel ribs. I'm just days
away from posting the pictures of how we did it. When we are ready
I'll add the pictures to the RV-10 section of our web site. We
machined an aluminum arch out of billet 6061 aluminum with an L shaped
profile to resupport the material that just has to be removed from the
three ribs to accomidated the AFS glass panels. I think most of the
power and ground buses will be attached to the forward sub panel.
Additionally, I'm putting a small fuse block bus in the rear of the
aircraft on my equipment rack I made behind the baggage area. I have
pictures of that already up on our site. more to follow.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies.
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Rowe
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 3:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:
Where are you placing the primary and secondary power grids? Looks to
me like the forward surface of the subpanel would be okay; a little
hard to reach but doable. Also could the manifold pressure sensing unit
go there as well? I also plan to put the door closure indicator relay
units there too. All suggestions welcomed. Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Power grid placements on AA panels |
This may be hard to explain and I got my panel from Stein. But here
you
go. I have three power buses, main, battery and e-bus. I took a
little
different route. I used a flat piece of AL about 4" by 6" and mounted
my MP
sensor, trim relays, a terminal board and a couple of other things. I
used
both sides. The I mounted that on the bottom of the subpanel, the
flange,
using the three bus terminals to hold it in place. So, if I need to
work on
anything on that piece, I just remove the three bus connections and the
panel drops down.
Because of a MP problem..I pushed the pin the wrong position in the
connector...I have had to drop it once already and it worked pretty
good.
Sorry, no pictures.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Rowe
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:
Where
are you placing the primary and secondary power grids? Looks to me like
the
forward surface of the subpanel would be okay; a little hard to reach
but
doable. Also could the manifold pressure sensing unit go there as well?
I
also plan to put the door closure indicator relay units there too. All
suggestions welcomed. Jay Rowe
<http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El=&SG=&RAND=
26220&pa
rtner=seekmo> Upgrade Your Email - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power grid placements on AA panels |
Jay,
I mounted the buss on the left forward rib. This left a short run from the
buss to the starter relay and my main feed runs down the left side also. I
mounte the rack using nutplases so if I have to remove it I can do do from
underneath the panel...not fun but doable. I mounted the manifold pressure
=C2-transducer on the right forward bulkhead facing the fiewall. Makes fo
r a short run to the bulkhead adapter. I know you goiung to ask for pics bu
t.....I have to find out where in my vast photos files they are. I have all
kinds of pictures of that area but none of exactly what your looking for.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 8, 2008 12:26:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:=C2-=C2
- Where are=C2-you=C2-placing the primary and secondary power grids?
=C2- Looks to me like the forward surface of the subpanel would be okay;
=C2- a little hard to reach but doable.=C2- Also could the manifold pre
ssure sensing unit go there as well?=C2- I also plan to put the door clos
ure indicator relay units=C2-there too.=C2- All suggestions welcomed.
=C2- Jay Rowe
Upgrade Your Email - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power grid placements on AA panels |
Oh yeah,...mount the door relays to a piece of aluminum matched drilled and
install nutplates=C2-to anywhere on the ribs or bulkheads. Attach the re
lays to that little aluminum piece. Hook up the relay leads to the relays a
nd intall it a one unit where you made your nutplates to hold it. It is way
easier to slide the terminals on then mount the relays....trust me, I just
hooked those up an hour ago.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 8, 2008 12:26:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:=C2-=C2
- Where are=C2-you=C2-placing the primary and secondary power grids?
=C2- Looks to me like the forward surface of the subpanel would be okay;
=C2- a little hard to reach but doable.=C2- Also could the manifold pre
ssure sensing unit go there as well?=C2- I also plan to put the door clos
ure indicator relay units=C2-there too.=C2- All suggestions welcomed.
=C2- Jay Rowe
Upgrade Your Email - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | ShowPlanes Tail mod |
Anyone considering Showplanes upper tailcone mod to change the rear fuselage
profile? Seems like it would allow placement of an antenna or two under it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TT mounting specifications |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Does anyone have the specs for the TruTrak flat pack DigiFlight II? I have the
servos but am trying to wait until later in getting the head. However this then
creates another problem and this is planning the instrument panel. I know
the panel cut out sizes but not what goes behind the panel. Is the housing wider
then the front panel? How far back does it go and what extra clearance is
needed? I have searched their site and can not find any sizing documents.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168521#168521
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "FLAGSTONE" <flagstone(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TT mounting specifications |
Gary:
This ref has the overall dimensions. If the flat pack dimensions are
consistent with the standard model, the dimensions shown are for the case
size. I happened to have my standard version out and I checked its
dimensions. They agree to the site.
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/instruments.htm
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 6:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: TT mounting specifications
>
> Does anyone have the specs for the TruTrak flat pack DigiFlight II? I
have the servos but am trying to wait until later in getting the head.
However this then creates another problem and this is planning the
instrument panel. I know the panel cut out sizes but not what goes behind
the panel. Is the housing wider then the front panel? How far back does it
go and what extra clearance is needed? I have searched their site and can
not find any sizing documents.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168521#168521
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TT mounting specifications |
Was looking at this earlier today too. The depth is shown on the product
page on the website as 5.5 inch, for flat pack or round. The cutout is in
the install manual. Be nice if they had a 3 view somewhere.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 9:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: TT mounting specifications
>
> Does anyone have the specs for the TruTrak flat pack DigiFlight II? I
> have the servos but am trying to wait until later in getting the head.
> However this then creates another problem and this is planning the
> instrument panel. I know the panel cut out sizes but not what goes behind
> the panel. Is the housing wider then the front panel? How far back does
> it go and what extra clearance is needed? I have searched their site and
> can not find any sizing documents.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168521#168521
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TT mounting specifications |
Looks like you are getting this in pieces and unfortunately this is from memory.
The front top & bottom are 3/8" above and below the cutout, add 1/2" for each
side. Use 5.5" for depth but add 2.5" for DB-25 connector and pitot/static connections.
Bill DeRouchey
#40029, flying
Chris wrote:
Was looking at this earlier today too. The depth is shown on the product
page on the website as 5.5 inch, for flat pack or round. The cutout is in
the install manual. Be nice if they had a 3 view somewhere.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman"
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 9:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: TT mounting specifications
>
> Does anyone have the specs for the TruTrak flat pack DigiFlight II? I
> have the servos but am trying to wait until later in getting the head.
> However this then creates another problem and this is planning the
> instrument panel. I know the panel cut out sizes but not what goes behind
> the panel. Is the housing wider then the front panel? How far back does
> it go and what extra clearance is needed? I have searched their site and
> can not find any sizing documents.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168521#168521
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Florida Builders |
I have just flown my 172 from Ont Canada to KZPH for vacation. I am 90 percent
sure I am going to build an RV10 as soon as I get some home reno projects out
of the way. Just wondering if there are any central Florida builders up for
a visit and a "few" questions? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurking about |
How much room loss will occur with interior work?
My previous posting was based on the finished interior work, not
stripped down. If you climb into the back seat of an unfinished -10
without seats, carpet, or side panels installed you could fit two 6"10"
375 lb sumu wrestlers.
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jimandlaura <jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Temperatures Hi |
Les,
I can confirm this. Shortly after finishing my RV-6 I had a problem with my left
brake not releasing all the way. This resulted in my brake heating up enough
to cause my tube to leak. My left brake peddle had a little bit of friction
that wasn't allowing the peddle to return to the forward position. This little
bit, maybe 1/4"-3/8", of hang-up was keeping enough pressure on the brake
to cause my leak. I tried cleaning up and lubricating the peddle, but it still
would not return all the way. I ended up being able to put more tension on
the springs in the brake calipers by inserting a couple washers. This worked
very well and fixed the problem.
Jim Riley
#40191
Finishing
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Brake Temperatures Hi
I was wondering if anyone has ever put temperature probes near the main brakes
on the -10. I have read about a few cases where there have been brake overheating
problems on various RV variations that have resulted in significant damage.
It would seem that this should be a simple issue to monitor.
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Electric/Gas Tow Bars |
Any recommendations on Electric or Gas powered tow bars. Now that I am
actually taking the completed..almost..in and out of the hanger I see a
need
for one. I can get the airplane out of the hanger no problem but
getting it
back in is a different story. I thought about putting a winch in the
back
of the hanger and just pulling it in, but the tow bar may be easier.
Any recommendations for one that works well with the wheel pans on?
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Albert, I really like this approach. I especially like the ease of installation,
this is something that could be added after the fact without much headache
at all. I had never thought of mounting the mechanism in the tail cone, I was
always trying to 'wedge' it in the tunnel somewhere. Nice work!
I do have some questions though. Are the springs initially stretched? In other
words if the rudder placed at full deflection do both springs still have tension
in them (one spring barely tensioned, and the other nearly fully extended)?
What trim force do you think you are getting? I had sent an e-mail to Vans asking
what input they thought would be required. They told me that a 5 to 10 pound
force as measured at the bottom of the rudder pedal should take care of any
'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be required to compensate for takeoff forces.
I have been crunching numbers on the torsion spring bias system that I had designed.
I am having difficulty getting the required trim force without overloading
the trim servo motor, or limiting the travel too much. A combination of the
two systems may be just the ticket to realize the benefits of both.
Again I really like the different approach, thanks for sharing.
Jason Kreidler - #40617
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168597#168597
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
soon I'll come to the point where I will mount my Lightspeed Plasma III control
box. I saw some pictures where it was mounted inside of the firewall. Where did
you mount it?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168598#168598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box |
Michael,
I mounted mine on the sub panel behind the instrument panel. I had
read somewhere that the heat in the engine compartment might not be a good
thing on the brain box so I wanted it behind the firewall. I could
certainly be off on that thought. Seems to work just fine.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 1:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box
Hi,
soon I'll come to the point where I will mount my Lightspeed Plasma III
control box. I saw some pictures where it was mounted inside of the
firewall. Where did you mount it?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168598#168598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box |
I have dual Lightspeed II+ in my 8A. I would not consider mounting the CDI
module on the firewall side of the engine if for no reason other than heat.
These modules get hot by themselves. You might want to ask Klaus about heat
issues with the Plasma III. Here is what his web site says:
The PLASMA CDI module should be mounted in a clean and dry place on the cold
side of the firewall. If space limitations require mounting on the engine
side of the firewall, a protective metal cover should be used to protect the
module from water/engine cleaning materials and heat. In this situation,
the module should be oriented such that the connectors are to the sides of
the plane. Air must be allowed to flow between the bottom of the module and
the mounting surface. On 6-cylinder systems, cooling air should be supplied
to the box via the cooling port on the 15-pin connector side of the ignition
module. For 6-cyl. systems that do not have a cooling port, contact LSE for
this modification. Cooling is not required for 4-cyl. systems.
I would mount the modules in a cool spot and not on the back side of the
firewall even if it is insulated. Use standoffs to allow for air to
circulate behind the modules. Keep in mind you need to provide a blast tube
for cooling. I would assume you could rig up a cooling fan instead if a
blast tube was too hard.
BTW - I got a note back from eMag the other day. They are progressing on
their 6 cylinder ignition system but I did not get a target date for
availability. I am hoping these are on the market as an alternative to
Lightspeed when I'm ready for the engine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 2:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box
Hi,
soon I'll come to the point where I will mount my Lightspeed Plasma III
control box. I saw some pictures where it was mounted inside of the
firewall. Where did you mount it?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168598#168598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power grid placements on AA panels |
Thanks Bob, Rick, and Rene. Great suggestions that I will (did)
incorporate. Actually what I did today was fashion several alum. angle
strips to run on the bottom of the three forward ribs then attached
those to the ribs with large nutplates. Then riveted the power grids to
the angled alum. with the grids facing downward. The result is they sit
low enough in that forward subpanel space that they are easy to get to
for attaching wires and such. And, if they have to be removed to
replace fuses (or any other reason) they drop right down by removing the
four large nutplate bolts. I also beefed up the ribs just a bit with
several small pieces of angle stock. I also have enough room to mount
the MAP box, the door indicator relays, and probably the Lightspeed box
if I decide to keep it out of the engine compartment. And, by the way
Bob, with my set up (two horizontal GRT screens and the cantened center
radio stack I did not have to alter the anterior ribs at all). I did
provide some additional support to the radio stack by running some
angled stock from the stack up to the already reinforced center rib.
Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob-tcw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Jay, We are using the Acuracy Avoinics glass instrument panel
and center console in our 10 and we are working out the details now.
We have the version of the panel with the centered radio stack. We are
using AFS 3500s on each side and a center stack of a GMX-200 mfd and 2
garmin 430w. I think the real challenge is the cutting and
re-supporting of the three main instrument panel ribs. I'm just days
away from posting the pictures of how we did it. When we are ready
I'll add the pictures to the RV-10 section of our web site. We
machined an aluminum arch out of billet 6061 aluminum with an L shaped
profile to resupport the material that just has to be removed from the
three ribs to accomidated the AFS glass panels. I think most of the
power and ground buses will be attached to the forward sub panel.
Additionally, I'm putting a small fuse block bus in the rear of the
aircraft on my equipment rack I made behind the baggage area. I have
pictures of that already up on our site. more to follow.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies.
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Rowe
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 3:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Power grid placements on AA panels
Ahn, or anyone else with an Accuracy Avionics Panel for their 10:
Where are you placing the primary and secondary power grids? Looks to
me like the forward surface of the subpanel would be okay; a little
hard to reach but doable. Also could the manifold pressure sensing unit
go there as well? I also plan to put the door closure indicator relay
units there too. All suggestions welcomed. Jay Rowe
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Checked by AVG.
3/7/2008 2:01 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where did you mount the Lightspeed Plasma III box |
While certainly not a proof of reliability, I had 320 hours of
perfect operation with my Plasma III....with no cooling port on
it. I recently took advantage of the winter downtime and sent
it in for the cooling port and all additional updates that they
could do. I haven't added blast cooling air yet, but plan to as
soon as I care to lay under the panel again. ;)
What I did was mount mine on the firewall, cabin side, upper
area behind the pilots side of the firewall....way up
on that top curved area that is largely wasted space.
I mounted it and had stand-off rubber feet under it to ensure
that it had an air gap between it and the firewall.
Originally I mounted it with just screws and nuts, but
getting to it was a bit of a pain because I had to have
the wife turn the screws while I held the wrench. So, when
it was out for the mods, I put nutplates on the box so that
now I can just put it in place and screw it in. It's
definitely not in the most accessible area for removal,
but then again, it's something that you will rarely (hopefully)
have to remove. Had I bought mine after the cooling port
became standard, I would have not had reason to remove it.
So it's kind of nice to use some of that wasted space.
Plus, being high on the firewall leaves for nice short
and easy to route RG-400 lines for the coil wires.
Not the best way, perhaps, but it's served me very well.
Having had so many hours without cooling ports, the heat
issue thing isn't a major fear for me...but I do think
it's best to go with any manufacturer recommendations
for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Carl Froehlich wrote:
> I have dual Lightspeed II+ in my 8A. I would not consider mounting the
> CDI module on the firewall side of the engine if for no reason other
> than heat. These modules get hot by themselves. You might want to ask
> Klaus about heat issues with the Plasma III. Here is what his web site
> says:
>
>
>
>
>
> The PLASMA CDI module should be mounted in a clean and dry place on the
> cold side of the firewall. If space limitations require mounting on the
> engine side of the firewall, a protective metal cover should be used to
> protect the module from water/engine cleaning materials and heat. In
> this situation, the module should be oriented such that the connectors
> are to the sides of the plane. Air must be allowed to flow between the
> bottom of the module and the mounting surface. On 6-cylinder systems,
> cooling air should be supplied to the box via the cooling port on the
> 15-pin connector side of the ignition module. For 6-cyl. systems that
> do not have a cooling port, contact LSE for this modification. Cooling
> is not required for 4-cyl. systems.
>
>
>
>
>
> I would mount the modules in a cool spot and not on the back side of the
> firewall even if it is insulated. Use standoffs to allow for air to
> circulate behind the modules. Keep in mind you need to provide a blast
> tube for cooling. I would assume you could rig up a cooling fan instead
> if a blast tube was too hard.
>
>
>
> BTW - I got a note back from eMag the other day. They are progressing
> on their 6 cylinder ignition system but I did not get a target date for
> availability. I am hoping these are on the market as an alternative to
> Lightspeed when I'm ready for the engine.
>
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (400 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (wings)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | tail light strobe combo |
Can someone explain what is required to hook up the wiring on this Whelen T
ail light/strobe combo. Out of the base of the unit is the normal strobe wi
res, red, black and white going to a 3 prong molex. There are also two othe
r wires which are going to a two prong molex connector. These other two wir
e are both blue.
Can someone give me a heads up?
Thanks,
John G. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail light strobe combo |
Well, the red/black/white hook up like all the other strobe
pack strobes do...and the 2 other blue wires are the tail
light and hence there is no + or - . Not much to it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Can someone explain what is required to hook up the wiring on this
> Whelen Tail light/strobe combo. Out of the base of the unit is the
> normal strobe wires, red, black and white going to a 3 prong molex.
> There are also two other wires which are going to a two prong molex
> connector. These other two wire are both blue.
>
> Can someone give me a heads up?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G. 409
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net> |
For those who might not be aware, the first electronic RVator news letter is now
available at this link.
http://doc.vansaircraft.com/RVator/Download_rvator.htm
--------
Tom Ganster 40778 Tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168672#168672
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TT mounting specifications |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Thanks all. This is getting real close to having the real thing. I believe I
can safely position the location of the cutout on the panel now. I have one of
the face plates (thanks to Stein and crew).
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168680#168680
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
| From: | "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> |
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which as all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that the best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be changing my
soon.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168698#168698
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 missing in Texas |
I just saw this posted on VAF
"Folks, I am posting this after talking with Doug, with the sole purpose
of letting people know what is going on. I propose that we keep the
speculation to ZERO, but if you have any factual information, pass it on
here.
We don't know very much, except that Mark Ritter, of Lockhart, TX is the
subject of a search tonight, He left Brenham a few minutes after 1230
this afternoon, headed home, and never showed up. Apparently there was a
"ping" from his cell phone about 20 miles northwest of Brenham a few
minutes after his departure, according to information I got from his
friends out near his home field. He took off about two minutes ahead of
me, but we were going opposite directions.
We can only hope and pray that he turns up - I am certain that a full-up
search will be going when daylight hits tomorrow.
Paul Dye "
Say some prayer for Mark
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 missing in Texas |
>From the Vansairforce site. Posted by Paul Dye.
Folks, I am posting this after talking with Doug, with the sole purpose of letting
people know what is going on. I propose that we keep the speculation to ZERO,
but if you have any factual information, pass it on here.
We don't know very much, except that Mark Ritter, of Lockhart, TX is the subject
of a search tonight, He left Brenham a few minutes after 1230 this afternoon,
headed home, and never showed up. Apparently there was a "ping" from his cell
phone about 20 miles northwest of Brenham a few minutes after his departure,
according to information I got from his friends out near his home field. He took
off about two minutes ahead of me, but we were going opposite directions.
We can only hope and pray that he turns up - I am certain that a full-up search
will be going when daylight hits tomorrow.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which
as all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be
changing my
soon.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
Instead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating
camlocks from SkyBolt which I installed.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak" |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
As I recall the tubes for the mains are AirStops (butyl) but the nose is
not.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 6:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak"
A February 2008 Aviation Consumer article on tires says"
"...Until recently, tubes were manufactured from a natural rubber
compound. Unfortunately, natural rubber is relatively porous and loses
pressure more readily than synthetic materials. Therefore, your tires
would lose pressure and go soft, too.
Enter the butyl rubber tube, now largely the standard among all aircraft
inner tube manufacturers. Since unused inner tubes are perfectly good
for installation, we're not saying you won't find a natural rubber tube
out there on some shop's shelf. It's perfectly serviceable, it just
won't hold air as well.
Goodyear's Brown says the new butyl tubes, introduced some seven years
ago, improve air retention by a factor of about 10. Steve Chlavin of
Desser Tire, the GA industry's mega tire retailer, agrees, saying, "The
new butyl leak-resistant tubes just don't leak.""
It's fairly easy to add air to my RV-6A tires - the valve stems point
out, so the tire can be aired through a small hole in the fairing. The
situation is more challenging in a stock RV-10 (valve stems on the mains
point toward the axle, for example). With this in mind, does anybody
know whether the tires Vans shipped with the RV-10 kits are butyl or
natural rubber?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
I'm planning on doing a cross between the two ideas and using floating nutp
lates:
Two Lug Miniature Anchor Nuts
Part No.
Thread Size
Price
Buy
MF5000-06
6-32
$1.09
MF5000-08
8-32
$0.91
MF5000-3(Manufactured Material Certification Available)
10-32
$0.79
Aircraft Spruce is one source. They are also known as MS21059.
Vern Smith (#324)
From: dav1111(at)erfwireless.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-L
ist: Lower Cowl MountsDate: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 06:25:22 -0500
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which as
all ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the best idea is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I
will be changing my soon. -------- MARK SUTHERLANDInst
ead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating camlocks from
SkyBolt which I installed.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!-Play the word scramble challenge with sta
r power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja
n
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 missing in Texas |
| From: | "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> |
this was posted by Austin News Station KXAN...
Mark and I have shared RV10 building tips with each other and I hope he is found
safe....
Man Missing After Plane Disappears
A 71-year-old man is missing after he flew a plane out of Brenham on Sunday, according
to a Civil Air Patrol official.
The missing man, Mark Ritter, had lunch in Brenham at 12:30 p.m. He said that he
wasn't feeling well and was going to head back to his home in Lockhart.
The RV10 experimental plane never made it to Lockhart. The last contact with the
plane was at 2 p.m. Sunday, 10 miles east of Giddings, just south of 290.
Civil Air Patrol Capt. Arthur Woodgate said officials are asking people to look
in their backyards and if you have any information, call him at 512-858-1383.
You could also call Cmdr. John Ureke at 832-643-5290.
KXAN Austin News has a crew on the scene and will bring updates as soon as they
become available.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168809#168809
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on spacing the
springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the spring but I left a
6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end of the cable from the rudder.
The spring never goes slack but I was more worried about over stretching it.
I trim full right rudder on take off and it seems to be about right
depending on climb out speed and there seems to be adequate trim available
for cruise and descent. I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I
should have stretched the springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a
spring from Vans and see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I
need more tension I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Albert, I really like this approach. I especially like the ease of
installation, this is something that could be added after the fact without
much headache at all. I do have some questions though. Are the springs
initially stretched. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had
sent an e-mail to Vans asking what input they thought would be required.
They told me that a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the
rudder pedal should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be
required to compensate for takeoff forces.
Jason Kreidler - #40617
4 Partner Build - Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
I have used nutplates on my RV-9A (850 hrs) and on the RV-10 (68 hrs)
and
their strong point is reliability and expense.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which
as
all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the
best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be
changing my
soon.
MARK SUTHERLAND
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
Sure seems like another great option with a kit that already exists!
My questions? Have you called Van's on this and spoken with Ken K? He might
have some insight into the spring tightness and maybe even guidance on the
way it is setup.
Please do keep us updated on the testing and any changes made /results
Thanks for sharing!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias
>
> I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on spacing
> the
> springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the spring but I left
> a
> 6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end of the cable from the
> rudder.
> The spring never goes slack but I was more worried about over stretching
> it.
> I trim full right rudder on take off and it seems to be about right
> depending on climb out speed and there seems to be adequate trim available
> for cruise and descent. I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I
> should have stretched the springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a
> spring from Vans and see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I
> need more tension I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Albert, I really like this approach. I especially like the ease of
> installation, this is something that could be added after the fact without
> much headache at all. I do have some questions though. Are the springs
> initially stretched. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had
> sent an e-mail to Vans asking what input they thought would be required.
> They told me that a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the
> rudder pedal should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be
> required to compensate for takeoff forces.
> Jason Kreidler - #40617
> 4 Partner Build - Finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 missing in Texas |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
This has only tangent connect to the search for Mark, however a similar
incident happened here in Oregon several years ago.
Robert McCann was departing with a series of Sunday morning pilots who
would go for the $100 Ham and Egg breakfast - each and every weekend.
He was not feeling well, was flying solo and was the final of 13 pilots
to depart Point A. Few of those 13 filed flight plans back to Point B.
Everyone knew the route and it was a large gaggle headed the same
general direction.
Once family members became concerned our aviation club of over 100
aircraft strong wanted to start an immediate air search. Turns out each
County Sheriff has the final authority to activate a search or focus on
more politically expedient issues. Confusion as to which of three
potential counties (Marion, Clackamas or Washington) lead to some
disconnect. Aviators were told to Stand Down. Timing was our perception
that we would find Robert safe if we could just get involved. Much like
the concerted efforts of finding Steve Fossett, little amounts of money
or aircraft would change the outcome of a rescue which becomes a search
and recovery. It fell into the hands of the leadership of the sheriff
and the response of the CAP to close the chapter.
My prayers are with clear skies, a strong cellphone battery and a filed
flight plan to begin the extensive search. KXAN was reporting light
rain this morning and the noon report did not update the story. Paul's
report of 20 miles NW and looking at the Direct To course brings back
those memories and a need for heighten prayers for a speedy and
successful outcome.
The issue of 121.5 and February 2009 should be on every builders minds
along with your most effective prayers.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 missing in Texas
>From the Vansairforce site. Posted by Paul Dye.
Folks, I am posting this after talking with Doug, with the sole purpose
of letting people know what is going on. I propose that we keep the
speculation to ZERO, but if you have any factual information, pass it on
here.
We don't know very much, except that Mark Ritter, of Lockhart, TX is the
subject of a search tonight, He left Brenham a few minutes after 1230
this afternoon, headed home, and never showed up. Apparently there was a
"ping" from his cell phone about 20 miles northwest of Brenham a few
minutes after his departure, according to information I got from his
friends out near his home field. He took off about two minutes ahead of
me, but we were going opposite directions.
We can only hope and pray that he turns up - I am certain that a full-up
search will be going when daylight hits tomorrow.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
Speaking of rudders and rudder trim I had a bad thing happen in Vegas last
weekend. I flew down and on Friday for the Nascar race and parked my plane
into the wind and installed my rudder lock. On Saturday a front came thro
ugh, the winds reversed had gusts up to 50 knots and it broke my rudder lo
ck that I made and caused the rudder to slam side to side and did some cosm
etic damage to it. It sheared two of the three rivets on both rudder stops
that are attached to the metal brackets on the HS spar. I could not believe
it. I don=A2t think I=A2ll be able to fix it and make it look like new so
I=A2ll probably be building a new one. (just priced it out last night, $40
0 for a new rudder) I want to add a nice electric rudder trim to it and thi
s will give me a chance to do that. I will also be re-designing my rudder
lock. It had a weak point in it, I knew it did but never thought there wou
ld be enough force on it to break it. =0ALive and learn and luckily I can
do some learning for the group. Make sure you use a rudder lock and yes, th
ere can be 50 knot gusts when you would never predict it. At least the wea
ther was great for the races with a good breeze and Kirby Chamblis flew his
Edge 540 for the crowd before the race. =0A=0AI am looking into the "best
practices" for rudder trim to adapt to my new rudder and like the idea pres
ented in this thread. I am going to leave my wedge on my new rudder and ad
d the rudder trim. That way it will very little deflection in cruise. =0A
=0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message
----=0AFrom: Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:20:23 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re: R
=0A=0ASure seems like another great option with a
kit that already exists!=0AMy questions? Have you called Van's on this and
spoken with Ken K? He might =0Ahave some insight into the spring tightness
and maybe even guidance on the =0Away it is setup.=0APlease do keep us upda
ted on the testing and any changes made /results=0AThanks for sharing!=0APa
scal=0A----- Original Message ----- =0AFrom: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadr
unner.com>=0ATo: =0ASent: Monday, March 10, 2008 1
0:18 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias=0A=0A=0A
=0A>=0A> I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on sp
acing =0A> the=0A> springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the
spring but I left =0A> a=0A> 6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end
of the cable from the =0A> rudder.=0A> The spring never goes slack but I w
as more worried about over stretching =0A> it.=0A> I trim full right rudder
on take off and it seems to be about right=0A> depending on climb out spee
d and there seems to be adequate trim available=0A> for cruise and descent.
I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I=0A> should have stretched t
he springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a=0A> spring from Vans an
d see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I=0A> need more tensio
n I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.=0A> Albert Gardne
r=0A> Yuma, AZ=0A>=0A> -----Original Message-----=0A> Albert, I really like
this approach. I especially like the ease of=0A> installation, this is so
mething that could be added after the fact without=0A> much headache at all
. I do have some questions though. Are the springs=0A> initially stretched
. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had=0A> sent an e-mail t
o Vans asking what input they thought would be required.=0A> They told me t
hat a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the=0A> rudder pedal
should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be=0A> required to
compensate for takeoff forces.=0A> Jason Kreidler - #40617=0A> 4 Partner Bu
======================0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Stainless placard |
What kind of engraving/stamping was done for your tail placards? What kind
of cost? Trying to avoid the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still
comply with the requirement..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Corrosion |
When I made my tanks... last May and June... I taped off the areas of
the skin that would be mated to the stiffeners and ribs with blue
painters tape. I roughened up the surface with scotch brite, cleaned
with aluma-prep and assembled with pro-seal. I left the baffle off
of the tanks as I was debating the installation of capacitance
senders instead of the floats. Over time (can't quite say how much)
I pulled up the painters tape.
So, I'm now ready to close up the tanks (with the floats) and find
that the right tank has a light corrosion in it... primarily under
the areas and at the edges of where the tape had been. I believe
this is both from the adhesive on the tape as well as my failure to
completely rinse the aluma-prep off in some areas. I can remove this
with a whole lot of elbow grease and a scotch brite pad. It comes up
a bit easier with aluma-prep and a scotch brite pad, but will then
run in to the nooks and crannies of the tank and create a new problem
somewhere else if I don't rinse quickly enough.
Will the presence of fuel in the tank act as corrosion protection and
keep this from progressing? Is this process something that stops
when the corrosive agent (the aluma prep, or the tape) is removed or
"used up," or is this a ball that once rolling won't stop?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Scoth brite Hell
Awaiting your reply
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larryrosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless placard |
$100 no way.
Placards from Vans $2.75 for the plain jane one or $12.00 for the fancy vans airforce one. It will cost you more for shipping than the cost of the placard. From the Vans web store http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards
Then have aircraft engravers make engrave them for you. $26. They may be able to supply the placard also. http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/dataplate.htm
Larry Rosen
#356
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
What kind of engraving/stamping was done for your tail placards? What kind of cost?
Trying to avoid the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still comply
with the requirement..
$100 no way.
<DIV>Placards from Vans $2.75 for the plain jane one or $12.00 for the fancy vans airforce one. It will cost you more for shipping than the cost of the placard. From the Vans web store <A href="http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards">http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards</A></DIV>
Larry Rosen
#356
What kind of engraving/stamping
was done for your tail placards? What kind of cost? Trying to avoid
the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still comply with the requirement..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric/Gas Tow Bars |
I bought the Tow Buddy. It's the one Wag Aero sells
(http://www.ground-support.com/tow_buddy.html and
http://store.wagaero.com/index.php?cPath=602_517). I've had it about 2
years, so far so good. I've used it with my RV-10 in the shop, and with
my RV-6A out at the hangar. Works with my RV-10 and RV-6A just fine,
but the grip width has to be adjusted to go from one to the other, as I
recall. Back when I bought mine (Osh 06) they had the normal model and
one with a higher power, higher current controller board. I bought that
one. (I think they market them as the TB-2000 and TB-3000 now, but ask
to be sure).
I talked to several of the other manufacturers but couldn't get a clear
answer on whether or not their products would work with an RV-10. The
folks at Powertow were infuriating to deal with. Wag Aero's folks, on
the other hand, put me directly in touch with the guy who knew
everything about the Tow Buddy. They worked with me to be certain their
unit would work for my needs. The pins they supplied worked with both
the RV-10 and RV-6.
My only "complaint" is the low key marketing (!) at Wag Aero. They had
options (snow chains, the boosted power board) that they didn't even
mention in their sales literature or catalog. When I asked I got "sure
we have have snow chains... you want those?" and while discussing my
concerns about getting my RV-10 up over a hangar lip, the gentleman
happened to mention the boosted power option.
Hope this helps.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Rene wrote:
>
> Any recommendations on Electric or Gas powered tow bars. Now that I
> am actually taking the completed....almost....in and out of the hanger
> I see a need for one. I can get the airplane out of the hanger no
> problem but getting it back in is a different story. I thought about
> putting a winch in the back of the hanger and just pulling it in, but
> the tow bar may be easier.
>
>
>
> Any recommendations for one that works well with the wheel pans on?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Electric/Gas Tow Bars |
Another option is to use a standard lawn tractor. You need to rig a tow bar
so that it connects to the tractor. Several people at the airpark go this
route. Some do a tow point on the front of the tractor so that they are
facing the airplane when towing.
Looking at the price of powered tow bars you can just about buy a new lawn
tractor and get some other use out of it.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric/Gas Tow Bars
I bought the Tow Buddy. It's the one Wag Aero sells
(http://www.ground-support.com/tow_buddy.html and
http://store.wagaero.com/index.php?cPath=602_517). I've had it about 2
years, so far so good. I've used it with my RV-10 in the shop, and with my
RV-6A out at the hangar. Works with my RV-10 and RV-6A just fine, but the
grip width has to be adjusted to go from one to the other, as I recall.
Back when I bought mine (Osh 06) they had the normal model and one with a
higher power, higher current controller board. I bought that one. (I think
they market them as the TB-2000 and TB-3000 now, but ask to be sure).
I talked to several of the other manufacturers but couldn't get a clear
answer on whether or not their products would work with an RV-10. The folks
at Powertow were infuriating to deal with. Wag Aero's folks, on the other
hand, put me directly in touch with the guy who knew everything about the
Tow Buddy. They worked with me to be certain their unit would work for my
needs. The pins they supplied worked with both the RV-10 and RV-6.
My only "complaint" is the low key marketing (!) at Wag Aero. They had
options (snow chains, the boosted power board) that they didn't even mention
in their sales literature or catalog. When I asked I got "sure we have have
snow chains... you want those?" and while discussing my concerns about
getting my RV-10 up over a hangar lip, the gentleman happened to mention the
boosted power option.
Hope this helps.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Rene wrote:
Any recommendations on Electric or Gas powered tow bars. Now that I am
actually taking the completed..almost..in and out of the hanger I see a need
for one. I can get the airplane out of the hanger no problem but getting it
back in is a different story. I thought about putting a winch in the back
of the hanger and just pulling it in, but the tow bar may be easier.
Any recommendations for one that works well with the wheel pans on?
Rene'
801-721-6080
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | Florida Builders |
How long are you going to be in Florida? I'm also originally from Ontario
(Walkerton) but live in Kansas now. I will be leaving for Florida (Lakeland
KLAL) on Sunday. If your still there, please give me a call.
I should be arriving around dinner time on Sunday March 16th and leaving
Sunday morning March 23rd. If any others in the area would like to get together,
please let me know.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
(913) 226-0106
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gee
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 6:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Florida Builders
I have just flown my 172 from Ont Canada to KZPH for vacation. I am 90 percent
sure I am going to build an RV10 as soon as I get some home reno projects out
of the way. Just wondering if there are any central Florida builders up for
a visit and a "few" questions? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Does anybody know if the 1.5 inch spacer for the Casper Labs 90 degree oil filter
housing would be the right one for the IO-540 installation on the RV-10? Vans
has three different sizes and they say that the 1.5 inch will fit most RV installations,
but when I called and asked specifically about this installation,
they did not have an answer. I would love to hear from anyone who has installed
this adapter.
I notice that this product as advertised in Spruce does not mention any spacers.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Casper Labs? Google does not get me there.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169008#169008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
Thats the spacer I used...1.5" from B & C products heres the link, scroll to the
bottom of the page.
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?20X358218
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 8:02:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
Does anybody know if the 1.5 inch spacer for the Casper Labs 90 degree oil filter
housing would be the right one for the IO-540 installation on the RV-10? Vans
has three different sizes and they say that the 1.5 inch will fit most RV installations,
but when I called and asked specifically about this installation,
they did not have an answer. I would love to hear from anyone who has installed
this adapter.
I notice that this product as advertised in Spruce does not mention any spacers.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Casper Labs? Google does not get me there.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169008#169008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
I'm not sure if Casper Labs is different but here is a B&C adapter with a
1.5" spacer on my -10.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 8:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
Does anybody know if the 1.5 inch spacer for the Casper Labs 90 degree oil
filter housing would be the right one for the IO-540 installation on the
RV-10? Vans has three different sizes and they say that the 1.5 inch will
fit most RV installations, but when I called and asked specifically about
this installation, they did not have an answer. I would love to hear from
anyone who has installed this adapter.
I notice that this product as advertised in Spruce does not mention any
spacers.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Casper Labs? Google does not get me
there.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169008#169008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Dave,
What sort of tubing did you use on the crankcase vent line?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
I'm not sure if Casper Labs is different but here is a B&C adapter with
a
1.5" spacer on my -10.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 8:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
Does anybody know if the 1.5 inch spacer for the Casper Labs 90 degree
oil
filter housing would be the right one for the IO-540 installation on the
RV-10? Vans has three different sizes and they say that the 1.5 inch
will
fit most RV installations, but when I called and asked specifically
about
this installation, they did not have an answer. I would love to hear
from
anyone who has installed this adapter.
I notice that this product as advertised in Spruce does not mention any
spacers.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Casper Labs? Google does not get
me
there.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169008#169008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-10 missing in Texas |
http://www.keyetv.com/news/local/story.aspx?content_id=4faca74a-e114-4cec-86cd-dafba7fb2fe9
Mark & his aircraft have been found. Our prayers and condolences are with
his family.
Bruce & Becky Breckenridge
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I have not done the crankcase vent line yet. The engine is hanging on the hoist
in my hangar. Probably won't mount it for another couple of weeks.
Thanks for the responses on the spacer. Sounds like the 1.5 is the right one.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169073#169073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-10 missing in Texas |
bruce breckenridge wrote:
> http://www.keyetv.com/news/local/story.aspx?content_id=4faca74a-e114-4cec-86cd-dafba7fb2fe9
>
> Mark & his aircraft have been found. Our prayers and condolences are
> with his family.
Mine too. I think we can all take a little time here and reflect on
this tragedy. He wasn't feeling well ...... yet flew home. Just like
the sage advice 'friends don't let friends drive drunk', maybe his
friends could have prevented the tragedy by offering him a ride home, or
a place to stay. But then maybe they wouldn't have made any
difference. We'll never know. We've lost a fellow aviator and a
beautiful airplane ...... and that's a crying shame.
Linn ...... :'(
>
> Bruce & Becky Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing |
I've used SCAT tube there on a couple installations. It seems to work
nicely and it's much easier to manage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
-->
Dave,
What sort of tubing did you use on the crankcase vent line?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
I'm not sure if Casper Labs is different but here is a B&C adapter with a
1.5" spacer on my -10.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 8:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Housing
Does anybody know if the 1.5 inch spacer for the Casper Labs 90 degree
oil
filter housing would be the right one for the IO-540 installation on the
RV-10? Vans has three different sizes and they say that the 1.5 inch
will
fit most RV installations, but when I called and asked specifically
about
this installation, they did not have an answer. I would love to hear
from
anyone who has installed this adapter.
I notice that this product as advertised in Spruce does not mention any
spacers.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Casper Labs? Google does not get
me
there.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169008#169008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stainless placard |
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
I'm partial to the one EAA sells, better looking than plain-Jane.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169102#169102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-10 missing in Texas |
Don't flame me on this but when I go I would prefer to go doing what I love,
Flying
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: RV-10 missing in Texas
bruce breckenridge wrote:
http://www.keyetv.com/news/local/story.aspx?content_id=4faca74a-e114-4cec-86
cd-dafba7fb2fe9
Mark & his aircraft have been found. Our prayers and condolences are with
his family.
Mine too. I think we can all take a little time here and reflect on this
tragedy. He wasn't feeling well ...... yet flew home. Just like the sage
advice 'friends don't let friends drive drunk', maybe his friends could have
prevented the tragedy by offering him a ride home, or a place to stay. But
then maybe they wouldn't have made any difference. We'll never know. We've
lost a fellow aviator and a beautiful airplane ...... and that's a crying
shame.
Linn ...... :'(
Bruce & Becky Breckenridge
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Corrosion, with visual aid |
I asked this question over 24 hours ago and so far there have been no
responses. With all that's going on with the list right now I'm
going to repost the question, with the attached picture in the hopes
I might get some feedback. Where's John Cox when you need him?
When I made my tanks... last May and June... I taped off the areas of
the skin that would be mated to the stiffeners and ribs with blue
painters tape. I roughened up the surface with scotch brite, cleaned
with aluma-prep and assembled with pro-seal. I left the baffle off
of the tanks as I was debating the installation of capacitance
senders instead of the floats. Over time (can't quite say how much)
I pulled up the painters tape.
So, I'm now ready to close up the tanks (with the floats) and find
that the right tank has a light corrosion in it... primarily under
the areas and at the edges of where the tape had been. I believe
this is both from the adhesive on the tape as well as my failure to
completely rinse the aluma-prep off in some areas. I can remove this
with a whole lot of elbow grease and a scotch brite pad. It comes up
a bit easier with aluma-prep and a scotch brite pad, but will then
run in to the nooks and crannies of the tank and create a new problem
somewhere else if I don't rinse quickly enough.
Will the presence of fuel in the tank act as corrosion protection and
keep this from progressing? Is this process something that stops
when the corrosive agent (the aluma prep, or the tape) is removed or
"used up," or is this a ball that once rolling won't stop?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Scoth brite Hell
Awaiting your reply
IMG_0257.JPG