RV10-Archive.digest.vol-df

March 26, 2008 - April 07, 2008



      the vacuum pad (longer), a spacer and a replacement sheer coupling for the
      SD-20.
      
      Bob
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172777#172777
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: No takers?
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Rob, I don't think pushing forward on the stick is the proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for their less than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy. Good luck, Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free. As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun by hand should be good. Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10. Linn Rob Kermanj wrote: Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it. My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think) everything that has been published. The set screws did make a remarkable difference. Rob. On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: No nibbles on this question from the other day? For the folks who are flying: How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still warranted? Inquiring minds want to know . . . TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: No takers?
Date: Mar 26, 2008
I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take the weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated. Rob. On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > Rob, > I don=92t think pushing forward on the stick is the > proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that > that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience > on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my > 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and > then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is > true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He > starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it till > Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for > their less than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there > should never see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the > stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy. > > Good luck, > Robin > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of linn Walters > Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? > > The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as > the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening > the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel > axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free. > > As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance > or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a > contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when > spun by hand should be good. > > Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which > has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10. > Linn > > Rob Kermanj wrote: > > Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I > filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the > spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I > learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy > and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy > before you stop it. > > My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out > why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think) > everything that has been published. The set screws did make a > remarkable difference. > > Rob. > > On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: > > No nibbles on this question from the other day? > > For the folks who are flying: > > > How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations > with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are > supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still > warranted? > > > Inquiring minds want to know . . . > > > TDT > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > Aurora Flight Sciences > tdt(at)aurora.aero > 617-500-4812 (office) > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com > style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http:// > forums.matronics.com================== =http://www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: No takers?
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
It's almost as if you have a harmonic going on, onset perhaps by an out of round tire? Which I'm sure you've already checked. Too light a tire? If everything else is as it should be, I'd be looking for something inherent in the wheel or tire. Does it shimmy with pants on and off? Just fishing here. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take the weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated. Rob. On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote: Rob, I don't think pushing forward on the stick is the proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for their less than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy. Good luck, Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free. As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun by hand should be good. Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10. Linn Rob Kermanj wrote: Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it. My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think) everything that has been published. The set screws did make a remarkable difference. Rob. On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: No nibbles on this question from the other day? For the folks who are flying: How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still warranted? Inquiring minds want to know . . . TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com============= =====http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: No takers?
Date: Mar 26, 2008
Thanks again. It is incredible how much experience and tips people provide on this list! I had not looked into the tire or the wheel pants. I will do both soon. Rob. On Mar 26, 2008, at 12:27 PM, John Jessen wrote: > It's almost as if you have a harmonic going on, onset perhaps by an > out of round tire? Which I'm sure you've already checked. Too > light a tire? If everything else is as it should be, I'd be looking > for something inherent in the wheel or tire. Does it shimmy with > pants on and off? Just fishing here. > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj > Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? > > I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take > the weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated. > > Rob. > > On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote: >> Rob, >> I don=92t think pushing forward on the stick is the >> proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that >> that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience >> on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my >> 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority >> and then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same >> is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. >> He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it >> till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are >> known for their less than Cessna like gear durability but >> properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding greater >> forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy. >> Good luck, >> Robin >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> ] On Behalf Of linn Walters >> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers? >> The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as >> the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening >> the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel >> axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy >> free. >> >> As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance >> or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a >> contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when >> spun by hand should be good. >> >> Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which >> has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10. >> Linn >> >> Rob Kermanj wrote: >> >> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I >> filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the >> spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I >> learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy >> and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy >> before you stop it. >> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure >> out why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I >> think) everything that has been published. The set screws did make >> a remarkable difference. >> Rob. >> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: >> >> No nibbles on this question from the other day? >> For the folks who are flying: >> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations >> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are >> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still >> warranted? >> Inquiring minds want to know . . . >> TDT >> Tim Dawson-Townsend >> Aurora Flight Sciences >> tdt(at)aurora.aero >> 617-500-4812 (office) >> 617-905-4800 (mobile) >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com >> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> >> >> >> >> http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http:// >> forums.matronics.com================= ==http://www.matronics.com/c >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com >> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Airwolf remote filter
recall the part# by any chance? Thx Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: linn Walters To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter. Linn RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to put it in a much more accessible location? I don't think there is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf remote mount. http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.as px Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: No takers?
The balancer I have is a motorcycle tire balancer that I got with the proper sized cones for these tires. I'll have to dig up pictures for the write up. Vic bought one that was slightly different that also would do just as well. I think it was around $100 but don't quote me on that. Also, as others mentioned wheel fairings....I did actually balance at least my nose fairing. I balanced a ziplock bag of lead shot taped to the nose when I first made them, and then I poured the lead into the inside of the nose cap and epoxied it in place. Probably should have left it in the ziplock and epoxied the whole thing in place. Anyway, I balanced the nose. I don't think I did the mains but some day this spring maybe I'll do that just for good measure. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Rob Kermanj wrote: > > My situation seems to be exactly like yours: low speed, not severe and > manageable. I had someone on the ground check the vibration and they > told me that it is definitely from the nose wheel. > > I also have really nice lateral fit on the axel and nothing is loose at > all. If you do your balancing and get good results, let me know. > > What kind of balancer do you have? > > > Rob. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
Pascal, My Stein-built harness is 18' long for the pitch servo, and 22' long for the roll servo. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172820#172820 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
Subject: Airwolf remote filter
No and the website seems to be a bit flakey at the moment. I know it was l ess than $500 and the adapter simply spun on in place of the existing filte r. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter recall the part# by any chance? Thx Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: linn Walters<mailto:pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter. Linn RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil fi lters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on that? Is th ere enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to put it i n a much more accessible location? I don't think there is a whole lot of p rice difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf remote mount. http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx Michael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring
thank you! Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring > > Pascal, > > My Stein-built harness is 18' long for the pitch servo, and 22' long for > the roll servo. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > N15JB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172820#172820 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: axle extension group buy-revisited (rivethead aero product)
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
thanks to everyone for comments and offers. I ended up following Dave's advice and ordering from Cleaveland Tools. Already on their way. Tom Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172851#172851 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airwolf remote filter
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com
I looked on my Napa Pro link site and they have a remote oil filter kit Part # BK 7354713 it looks like what you may be talking about. My pro link has p ictures of the kit .=C2- It includes a spin on adapter, a housing to remot e mount, brass fittings and cut to length hose. The kit was less the $100.00 -----Original Message----- From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> Sent: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:07 pm Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter No and the website seems to be a bit flakey at the moment.=C2- I know it w as less than $500 and the adapter simply spun on in place of the existing fi lter. =C2- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter =C2- recall the part# by any chance? =C2- Thx =C2- Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter =C2- NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter. Linn RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil fil ters but what about just remote mounting it?=C2- Any thoughts on that?=C2 - Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to put it in a much more accessible location?=C2- I don=99t think there is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf r emote mount. http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx Michael =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =C2- =C2- ;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- - The RV10-List Email For =C2- --> http://www.matronics.bsp;=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2- - MATRONICS WEB http://forums.matronics.com ==C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/con =C2- -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! -= --> http://forums.matronics.com -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Airwolf remote filter
I installed the Airwolf remote filter. I put it on the right side of the firewall near the top. Definitely expensive, especially if you buy good hoses (it doesn't come with any), but changing the filter should be much easier. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the > oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on > that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote > mount to put it in a much more accessible location? I dont think > there is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and > the Airwolf remote mount. > > http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx > > Michael > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: fiberglass primer
Date: Mar 26, 2008
To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during the fly off, what paint has been used? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: fiberglass primer
I've noticed that some folks haven't used anything. If you do decide to do something you should check with your painter to make sure you're not going to make life harder for them (and more expensive for you).Polyfiber UV SmoothPrime is what a lot of folks use for pin-hole and weave filling. it's also a UV barrier, and is compatible with almost all paint systems. If you go this route, call me, and I'll give you a name of someone who carries it in PHX. (It's NOT cheap) Deems David McNeill wrote: > > To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during > the fly off, what paint has been used? > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: fiberglass primer
Date: Mar 26, 2008
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/09-28290.php> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/09-28290.php Here is what I used. Rene' N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: fiberglass primer To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during the fly off, what paint has been used? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N263DL First Flight
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
Eloquently stated and a job well done- congrats Still in FG purgatory -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172948#172948 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fiberglass primer
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
i will probably wind up buying this stuff from Spruce, but has anyone found a Urethane topcoat-compatible primer that is cheaper. Also, do I need more than one quart to do the RV10 top? Thanks for your answers in advance -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172952#172952 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hartzel prop
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 26, 2008
English interpretation? [Rolling Eyes] -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172955#172955 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Re: Hartzel prop
Date: Mar 27, 2008
Sorry Mike, I meant to add a note for David's benefit that one of the places that list any restrictions on a prop/engine combination is in the application data. Under the section, "placard/restr:" you will usually find data (if any) relating to limitations on power settings and or rpm values and max time for continuous operations at certain settings. John 40315 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Thursday, 27 March 2008 2:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzel prop English interpretation? [Rolling Eyes] -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172955#172955 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Re: fiberglass primer
Date: Mar 27, 2008
Mike, I would not apply a primer until you know the paint system that your painter will use. The primer should be part of the same system. The UV Smoothprime is good under any paint system. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: fiberglass primer i will probably wind up buying this stuff from Spruce, but has anyone found a Urethane topcoat-compatible primer that is cheaper. Also, do I need more than one quart to do the RV10 top? Thanks for your answers in advance -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172952#172952 Checked by AVG. 7:17 PM Checked by AVG. 7:17 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heater cable mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2008
I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control cables. Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall, through the firewall on to its final destination. So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange, I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install the cables the rest of the way. Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done. How are others handling this? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heater cable mounting
You want that bracket fairly stout, those push/pull cables should be called yank/slam cables but they do wear in a bit. I was in the same boat with mine, mine are panel mounted and I had to wait till the panel was in to route them. It was not really a big deal, but I have to tell you that upside dwon under the panel is not real fun but you can do it. Don't forget the cable clamp the holds the cables just before they exit the firewall. Put your Bowden clamps on the heater boxes before you install them. MUCH EASIER. Keep the inner steel cable in the outer when routing them, only pull them back far enough to cut the outer cable...they can be a B*t$h if not inpossible to reinstall without loosening up the clamps, they don't like to slide into the curved sections, the tip digs into the liner. I did mine with the engine hung, oiler cooler on took me an afternoon and I have the battle scars to show it. Buuuuuuut, It's done now and like everything else, seemed like a pain then, but now that it's finished, wasn't too bad. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:16:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Heater cable mounting I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control cables. Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall, through the firewall on to its final destination. So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange, I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install the cables the rest of the way. Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done. How are others handling this? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Heater cable mounting
Date: Mar 27, 2008
First I used an alternate panel (Stein) and a center console. So..... I made a bracket for the two cables and drilled the bottom of my panel and added nut plates to attach the bracket later. Inserted the cables in the bracket and then estimated where they would be in space (my panel was not installed) and then ran them through the firewall and connected them up. One of the plusses of doing it this way was that while I work under the panel I can undo the bracket and get the cables out of the way. I am starting to wonder why I need them, in the first 10 hours of flying, with the ground temps in the 30s and 40s, all I use are the fresh air vents and have not turned on the heaters yet....except to test.....they work. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 11:17 AM Subject: RV10-List: Heater cable mounting I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control cables. Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall, through the firewall on to its final destination. So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange, I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install the cables the rest of the way. Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done. How are others handling this? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2008
I have a IO-540 C2C (narrow deck, 250hp) engine and I'm short one mounting ear. This model has the larger hole for the Lord mounts and has the two alignment pins along with the four bolt holes. Does anyone have one available or know where I can find one? Thanks, Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173067#173067 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Heater cable mounting
Gary, I just finished going through the same mental exercise. I decided to mount them in a small rectangular piece of aluminum that has two nut plates attached just outboard of the holes the cable go through. This way I can make holes just big enough for the knobs to come through from the rear and have two holes in the panel to put screws through to the smaller plate behind. Clear as mud eh? Let me know if you want a picture. Dave Hertner orchidman wrote: > > I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control cables. > > Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall, through the firewall on to its final destination. > So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange, I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install the cables the rest of the way. > Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done. > > How are others handling this? > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Fuselage SB > (N410GB reserved) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Heater cable mounting
somewhat like this? http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05531.html Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ David Hertner wrote: > This way I can make holes just big enough for the knobs to come > through from the rear and have two holes in the panel to put screws > through to the smaller plate behind. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
Date: Mar 27, 2008
If you mean the larger main hole, you have the wrong ears. In this case you would need to get a full set of small-hole ears. The shock mounts, whether they be the Lord mounts or the others that Van's is now shipping with the FWF kit, they still need to go through the same size hole in the engine ear. Send me a picture off-line and I will let you know if they look like the right or wrong ears. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Mar 27, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Nick Leonard wrote: > > I have a IO-540 C2C (narrow deck, 250hp) engine and I'm short one > mounting ear. This model has the larger hole for the Lord mounts > and has the two alignment pins along with the four bolt holes. Does > anyone have one available or know where I can find one? > Thanks, > Nick > > -------- > Nick Leonard > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173067#173067 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2008
I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole. Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more. Anyone know where I can find one? Thanks -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2008
Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly to the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall? -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
I've got one Nick that is used serviceable and has passed NDT inspection. It sells for $220 plus freight. Let me know if you'd like it. Ref the large hole mounts, versus the small hole. The large hole mount was designed for engines that use a prop extension. It was designed to move the focal point of the engine forward. The large hole mount is 28 degree rather than the 30 degree on the small mount. Hope this information is helpful to you. Rhonda Barrett-Bewley Barrett Precision Engines, Inc. 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole. Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more. Anyone know where I can find one? Thanks -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
Nothing like a Lady that not only has great looks...but can talk engines as well!! Rick Sked 40185 BPE fan, friend and customer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 2:15:40 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears I've got one Nick that is used serviceable and has passed NDT inspection. It sells for $220 plus freight. Let me know if you'd like it. Ref the large hole mounts, versus the small hole. The large hole mount was designed for engines that use a prop extension. It was designed to move the focal point of the engine forward. The large hole mount is 28 degree rather than the 30 degree on the small mount. Hope this information is helpful to you. Rhonda Barrett-Bewley Barrett Precision Engines, Inc. 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole. Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more. Anyone know where I can find one? Thanks -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For those interested: http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk I'm really happy with the results. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/> finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
Date: Mar 27, 2008
Nick, Sorry to say it, but the ears with large holes won't work with a standard RV-10 engine mount. The angle and spacing is wrong. I had the large ears on my engine and thought I could get the rubber mounts for this type of ear, bit it wouldn't match the engine mount. The only way I could get it to work is to buy the ears with small holes. They will bolt to the engine the same as the large ears, but their angle matches the engine mount. Kevin Belue RV-6A RV-10 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears > > I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I > sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they > said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole. > Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more. > > Anyone know where I can find one? > > Thanks > > -------- > Nick Leonard > RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer
Date: Mar 27, 2008
Usually not a good idea as you have a relatively heavy sender mechanically supported by a small diameter threaded fitting. The sender being free to vibrate around presents a strong moment arm to the sender fitting. I used Adel clamps to mount my oil and fuel pressure senders to the engine mount, 8" to 10" or so away from the engine oil port or fuel pump. I made up a short piece of fire sleeved hose to make the connection. 400 hrs on my RV-8A and still working fine. Carl Froehlich RV-10 (wings) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly to the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall? -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer
You may have a hard time finding any that mount directly to the engine. All of the ones I've seen say not to mount them to the engine due to the fact that the vibrations will damage them. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly to the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Date: Mar 27, 2008
CJ, The brake lines look great. Any chance you'd share what the replacement lines set back your checkbook? Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... Hey all - Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For those interested: http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk I'm really happy with the results. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/> finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
I have their lines as well...cept Brett didn't volunteer to come measure th en install them for me=C2- :) Nice product..highly recommended. Now when you bleed them CJ, make sure you get Bonaco's x-ray glasses that enable you to see through the lines and monitor the bubbles. ;) Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:11:15 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... Hey all - Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. =C2 - Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results . =C2- For those interested: http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk I=99m really happy with the results. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net === ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Adding Air to Main Tires
Date: Mar 27, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Dear List, My plan for my main wheel pants was to create some sort of access door on the wheel pant to allow me to fill my mains w/o removing the front part of the wheel pant. Simple enough till I looked at the stem of my tire that points straight at my axel extension at basically 90 degrees to the side of the wheel pant. Rats! Nothing is simple. This valve orientation will require an excessively large door for access. Not practical. I found a 90 degree Schrader valve adapter but I am not sure that is a good solution as it will probably rub on the axel extension and may also be too long. Are there any builders that have found a solution to this issue. Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Date: Mar 27, 2008
I have teflon braided brake lines from Baker Precision on my RV6. Fours years no leaks ..no problems. Also used them from the caliper to the aluminum line on the gear leg to allow flexing. http://www.bakerprecision.com/earls19.htm Jerry Calvert Edmond OK RV6 N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcus Cooper To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... CJ, The brake lines look great. Any chance you'd share what the replacement lines set back your checkbook? Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:11 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... Hey all - Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For those interested: http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk I'm really happy with the results. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Adding Air to Main Tires
Date: Mar 27, 2008
With a 2" hole and a pressure meter that has the angle on the end (about 45%, I think), you can get in there and check it. The location of the hole is fairly important, of course. I center it 2" or 2.5" behind and 1/2" above the center of the axle extender screw point and put in a Cirrus 2" plastic plug. It isn't perfect, but it works. You have to leave the cap off the valve stem, though. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Mar 27, 2008, at 7:17 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > Dear List, > My plan for my main wheel pants was to create some sort > of access door on the wheel pant to allow me to fill my mains w/o > removing the front part of the wheel pant. Simple enough till I > looked at the stem of my tire that points straight at my axel > extension at basically 90 degrees to the side of the wheel pant. > Rats! Nothing is simple. This valve orientation will require an > excessively large door for access. Not practical. > I found a 90 degree Schrader valve adapter but I am not > sure that is a good solution as it will probably rub on the axel > extension and may also be too long. > Are there any builders that have found a solution to > this issue. > > Thanks, > Robin > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Date: Mar 27, 2008
So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... Hey all - Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For those interested: http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk I'm really happy with the results. cj #40410 www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/> finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2008
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
I wonder if Brett would be interested in a group buy. Bob Leffler wrote: > > So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies? > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris > Johnston > *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... > > Hey all - > > Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines > out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and > against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with > the results. For those interested: > > http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk > > Im really happy with the results. > > cj > > #40410 > > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/> > > finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Date: Mar 28, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
I spoke with Brett at Bonaco last night, and he said that the pricing isn't finalized for the brake lines for the RV-10. I'm being the guinea pig so that he can get the lengths nailed down, and then you'll be able to just call an order lines for your 10 without any hassle. As to a group buy, if there's interest, I'd be happy to speak with Brett and see if he's willing. I'd venture a guess and say that it seems like a real possibility. cj -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 9:32 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... I wonder if Brett would be interested in a group buy. Bob Leffler wrote: > > So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies? > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris > Johnston > *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... > > Hey all - > > Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines > out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and > against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with > the results. For those interested: > > http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk > > I'm really happy with the results. > > cj > > #40410 > > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/> > > finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc... > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Thanks to everyone for their input. This certainly saved me a great deal of grief in the future. Easier to replace the mounts now and get the right ones than figure out why it wasn't fitting correctly later. My appreciation to all of you for your help. Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173280#173280 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
Date: Mar 28, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe don't actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
You realize that Winds Aloft published by any weather service is a forecast right. Does the 396 integrate forecast data with ground speed to extrapolate (non calculate since not enough data is provided) winds aloft? I can't speak for the 396 but in order to calculate actual winds aloft, you need the Indicated altitude, CAS, barometer setting, temperature, heading AND ground speed. If you have a full function GPS like the GNS-430/530, use the Density Alt / TAS / Winds function on the first page of the Aux menu--see page 134 of the GNS-430 manual. This will give you VERY accurate Density Alt, TAS and wind component. Without those additional data points, the portable 396 can only make a best guess on actual wind component. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Dear List, > > I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft > readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT > ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A > indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component > of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same > direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which > is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is > indicating 0 knots. > > I believe don't actually receive the Winds Aloft data > because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the > Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real > Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no > satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin > Winds data box? > > > > Thanks, > > Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: XM WX Accuracy
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Robin, When I signed up for my XM weather subscription I remember specifically having to fork out the extra $$ per month because the Winds Aloft wasn't part of the LT package. They tend to change their packages however, so you might want to check with XM. Clearly the Garmin shouldn't be showing any data if it is unreliable or unavailable, so there may be a software issue as well. As far as accuracy goes, I get real-time wind information on the GRT EFIS, and most of the time the Winds Aloft data is pretty close. I only use winds aloft to get a general idea of what altitude I want to aim for. Sometimes the actual wind data causes me to adjust my plans. Just one data point. I'm sure others will comment. Regards, Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - Flying - www.my9a.com RV-10 #576 - Slow-build Fuselage - www.rvten.com On Mar 28, 2008, at 1:03 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > Dear List, > I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft > readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/ > month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A > indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind > component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same > altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots > (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the > XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. > I believe don=92t actually receive the Winds Aloft data > because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why > the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted > XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and > Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing > up in the Garmin Winds data box? > > Thanks, > Robin > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Something else to consider is the AGL your viewing data for - closer to the ground the more the accuracy is likely to be affected by local terrain - I can't imagine that they're compensating for that with any reliability. Case in point is the San Francisco Bay Area - I've seen 180 degree variations from the forecast below 6,000' on my 496. Having said that - compared to "VOR"s and DUATS these little 496s are almost magical, at this point it's on my critical equipment list. Having said that - it runs on electrons and it's programmed by geeks like me - bring along your sectionals and always get a full weather briefing before departing :) g _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:54 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy Robin, When I signed up for my XM weather subscription I remember specifically having to fork out the extra $$ per month because the Winds Aloft wasn't part of the LT package. They tend to change their packages however, so you might want to check with XM. Clearly the Garmin shouldn't be showing any data if it is unreliable or unavailable, so there may be a software issue as well. As far as accuracy goes, I get real-time wind information on the GRT EFIS, and most of the time the Winds Aloft data is pretty close. I only use winds aloft to get a general idea of what altitude I want to aim for. Sometimes the actual wind data causes me to adjust my plans. Just one data point. I'm sure others will comment. Regards, Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - Flying - www.my9a.com RV-10 #576 - Slow-build Fuselage - www.rvten.com On Mar 28, 2008, at 1:03 PM, Robin Marks wrote: Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe don't actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Along similar lines but slightly different, I've been frustrated at the update rate on my 496 WX on the METAR pages. The map view cloud WX display is usually fairly fresh, but the META page is often several hours old and never seems to update even though the info is typically updated on the hour. Does anyone know how to force an update or improve the update rate? I tried turning the machine off then on but didn't really get a good response. Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe don't actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2008
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
I'm interesterd in the group buy when/if it becomes available. John 40102 Chris Johnston wrote: I spoke with Brett at Bonaco last night, and he said that the pricing isn't finalized for the brake lines for the RV-10. I'm being the guinea pig so that he can get the lengths nailed down, and then you'll be able to just call an order lines for your 10 without any hassle. As to a group buy, if there's interest, I'd be happy to speak with Brett and see if he's willing. I'd venture a guess and say that it seems like a real possibility. cj -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 9:32 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... I wonder if Brett would be interested in a group buy. Bob Leffler wrote: > > So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies? > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris > Johnston > *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines... > > Hey all - > > Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines > out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and > against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with > the results. For those interested: > > http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk > > I'm really happy with the results. > > cj > > #40410 > > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net > > finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc... > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 2979 (20080327) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Lew, my e-mail is Thane2(at)comporium.net Thanks so much. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 7:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes > > Hey Eric(5) and Thane(6), > > How about emailing me your email address so I can keep you posted, confirm > address, etc. We're still waiting for the seatbelts, so I may send the > countersink on to those who already have theirs, then get it back at the > end of the line. This "traveling tool" thing works so fast, we weren't > ready for it so soon! > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172365#172365 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
I just finished integrating XM weather into my "for education" glass displays and this topic is fresh on my mind. The Aviator LT package ($29.99) does not provide winds aloft. The technical call regarding why the 396 has confused you should go to Garmin. Real time weather flows from the XM receiver every 5 minutes (almost on the second). TFR data is downloaded every 10 minutes. It is surprising how quickly the TFRs change. The central Metars database is updated from all stations each hour and transmitted every 10 minutes. The ZULU times at the leading edge of the metar should always be less than 70 minutes from actual ZULU time. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, now flying outside the Magenta Marcus Cooper wrote: Along similar lines but slightly different, Ive been frustrated at the update rate on my 496 WX on the METAR pages. The map view cloud WX display is usually fairly fresh, but the META page is often several hours old and never seems to update even though the info is typically updated on the hour. Does anyone know how to force an update or improve the update rate? I tried turning the machine off then on but didnt really get a good response. Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe dont actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
Date: Mar 28, 2008
Bill, Thanks for the words. My expectations are in line with your info about the METAR updates, but I routinely see ZULU times associated with the METAR info several hours old. I guess I should give Garmin a call as there are certainly times when data that old can be misleading. Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy I just finished integrating XM weather into my "for education" glass displays and this topic is fresh on my mind. The Aviator LT package ($29.99) does not provide winds aloft. The technical call regarding why the 396 has confused you should go to Garmin. Real time weather flows from the XM receiver every 5 minutes (almost on the second). TFR data is downloaded every 10 minutes. It is surprising how quickly the TFRs change. The central Metars database is updated from all stations each hour and transmitted every 10 minutes. The ZULU times at the leading edge of the metar should always be less than 70 minutes from actual ZULU time. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, now flying outside the Magenta Marcus Cooper wrote: Along similar lines but slightly different, I've been frustrated at the update rate on my 496 WX on the METAR pages. The map view cloud WX display is usually fairly fresh, but the META page is often several hours old and never seems to update even though the info is typically updated on the hour. Does anyone know how to force an update or improve the update rate? I tried turning the machine off then on but didn't really get a good response. Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe don't actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: XM WX Accuracy
Thats correct Marcus- The data flows from the XM receiver without any commands after the initial setup. So any box receiving the data has the latest - but its the programmer of the box that chooses what to display. It is my opinion that the Metar data is just as important as the Nexrad visual. And, if your destination airport is close to the edge of a storm the Metar data becomes much more important than the Nexrad. Not having the latest available Metar is a safety issue. I have flown for 30 years and now after having GPS, TIS traffic and weather in my cockpit its mind boggling how I was able to fly with knowing so little. Bill Marcus Cooper wrote: Bill, Thanks for the words. My expectations are in line with your info about the METAR updates, but I routinely see ZULU times associated with the METAR info several hours old. I guess I should give Garmin a call as there are certainly times when data that old can be misleading. Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy I just finished integrating XM weather into my "for education" glass displays and this topic is fresh on my mind. The Aviator LT package ($29.99) does not provide winds aloft. The technical call regarding why the 396 has confused you should go to Garmin. Real time weather flows from the XM receiver every 5 minutes (almost on the second). TFR data is downloaded every 10 minutes. It is surprising how quickly the TFRs change. The central Metars database is updated from all stations each hour and transmitted every 10 minutes. The ZULU times at the leading edge of the metar should always be less than 70 minutes from actual ZULU time. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, now flying outside the Magenta Marcus Cooper wrote: Along similar lines but slightly different, Ive been frustrated at the update rate on my 496 WX on the METAR pages. The map view cloud WX display is usually fairly fresh, but the META page is often several hours old and never seems to update even though the info is typically updated on the hour. Does anyone know how to force an update or improve the update rate? I tried turning the machine off then on but didnt really get a good response. Thanks, Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: XM WX Accuracy Dear List, I have been bugged for some time about the Winds Aloft readings I often get on my Garmin 396 using XM WX Aviator LT ($29.95/month) package. I have video footage of me flying in my RV-6A indicating 194 knots (Ground Speed) and a 90 degree Cross Wind component of 4 knots. I also have video of me cursing at the same altitude, same direction, same power settings indicating 140 knots (Ground Speed) which is well below my typical cruising speed and the XM wings aloft is indicating 0 knots. I believe dont actually receive the Winds Aloft data because of my pricing package (Aviator Lt) but I have no idea why the Garmin displays Winds data for me to misinterpret. I contacted XM, Real Weather (I think that is the data providers name) and Garmin with no satisfactory answer. Anyone know what data is showing up in the Garmin Winds data box? Thanks, Robin http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Two New Lists Added to the Matronics Lineup!
Dear Listers, I've added two new Email Lists to the Matronics List and Forum lineup today. These include the Rans-List and RV12-List. Please surf over to the Matronics List Subscription page and sign up for these new Lists if they are of interest to you: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Full support on the Forums, List Browse, Archives, etc. is available. Rans-List: http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rans-List RV12-List http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV12-List Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Plastic strip
Date: Mar 29, 2008
I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of this product and what it is called? Thanks. Dave Leikam 40496 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2008
From: Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: subpanel pics
Trying to get ideas on how the rear on my panel/subpanel area should or could look. Please share any pics you may have so that I can get my brain in gear on what it will eventually look like back there! Thanks, Rob Wright #392 Canopy with smoothprime and Doors ! No Cost - Get a month of Blockbuster Total Access now. Sweet deal for Yahoo! users and friends. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text1.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: priming fuel tanks
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I just completed my fuel tanks and after I leak check them, would like to prime the exterior surfaces as I have the rest of the project. Should I be concerned if I use rattle can, self-etching primer, and a possible effect on the ProSeal? Thanks, Sean Blair #40225 http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Plastic strip
Date: Mar 29, 2008
http://www.bonaero.com/Electrical.htm#MS21266 Is this what you are looking for? Vans sells it as MS21266-1n...12" lengths. I used about 4 or five of them. Used E6000 to hold it in place where needed. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Plastic strip I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of this product and what it is called? Thanks. Dave Leikam 40496 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic strip
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I think that is the stuff. Thanks!! Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 11:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Plastic strip http://www.bonaero.com/Electrical.htm#MS21266 Is this what you are looking for? Vans sells it as MS21266-1n...12" lengths. I used about 4 or five of them. Used E6000 to hold it in place where needed. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:33 PM To: RV-10 matronics Subject: RV10-List: Plastic strip I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of this product and what it is called? Thanks. Dave Leikam 40496 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Seals and adhesion - inquiring mind needs to know
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 29, 2008
Getting ready to install the door seals on the doors and I have a few thoughts and questions 1. For those who are flying - do the Van's seals work well. Air leaks - where do they occur and are they bothersome? Is it a real problem to get the doors to fit well by installing the door seals after painting. How many CS4 rivets did you use to help with the adhesion and fitting or did you cleco to hold the seal in place? 2. I am not real keen on using silicone sealant on the rubber door gasket. The obvious problem is later paint adhesion. What products other than the Vans recommended silicone did you use? 3. Vans gives you 25 feet of gasket/seal and you need 24 feet (12 for each door) 4. My doors fit pretty well right now. After I put the gasket/door seal on will it mess up my tight fit. Should I stick with the Vans seal or how has the Aircraftdoorseal.com product worked out for those who have gone that route. -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173617#173617 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2008
From: Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic strip
Dave, from Van's Catalog NYLON GROMMET 12"LONG MS21266-1N this is the cheap stuff, less than a dollar per foot. you can get the metal stuff with a nylon covering for 7-8 dollars/foot from ACS. Rob Wright #392 ----- Original Message ---- From: Dave Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 11:33:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Plastic strip I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of this product and what it is called? Thanks. Dave Leikam 40496 OMG, Sweet deal for Yahoo! users/friends:Get A Month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. W00t http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text2.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic strip
alligator strip. IIRC Spruce has it. On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 11:33 PM, Dave Leikam wrote: > > > I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on > wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines > the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of > this product and what it is called? Thanks. > > Dave Leikam > 40496 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: subpanel pics
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Rob, here is how I did it.. First, Stein built my panel and he used his alternate, 3 section one. (picture attached) I did not rivet the forward section onto the fuselage and thus was able to mount the panel in the forward section on the work bench. From there I decided what had to be cut out and where to place everything. It was easy to mark locations and do the cutouts and then test fit...many times. I attached everything on the sub-panel with screws and nutplates so that it would be easier to install in the airplane. I also installed a shelf, using nut plates, between the sub-panel and the firewall to hold the AHRS and in the end I mounted on more item to the bottom (dimmers). I found it hard to fit everything in a convenient place and thus had to make another shelf type extension for the relays, terminal board and manifold pressure sender. In the end it is not to much of a maintenance nightmare, I had to test that theory twice so far. Test number three is coming up next week.....going to change some wiring in the GRT and 430. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: subpanel pics Trying to get ideas on how the rear on my panel/subpanel area should or could look. Please share any pics you may have so that I can get my brain in gear on what it will eventually look like back there! Thanks, Rob Wright #392 Canopy with smoothprime and Doors ! ">No Cost - Get a month of Blockbuster Total Access now. Sweet deal for Yahoo! users and friends. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dsyvert(at)AOL.COM
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Subject: MId Seat Rail Supports - Where do they go
To All: ON page 28-16 it shows building the Mid Seat Rail Supports - F-1057, then it says putting them off to the side until after the gear legs are installed. Can some one tell me on what page they are installed? I can not seem to find it. Thanks Dave Syvertson 40625 **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: MId Seat Rail Supports - Where do they go
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I don't ever remember finding it. But when you go to put the seats in..you will need them installed. I did not put them in until final assembly. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert(at)AOL.COM Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 8:37 AM Subject: RV10-List: MId Seat Rail Supports - Where do they go To All: ON page 28-16 it shows building the Mid Seat Rail Supports - F-1057, then it says putting them off to the side until after the gear legs are installed. Can some one tell me on what page they are installed? I can not seem to find it. Thanks Dave Syvertson 40625 _____ Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch <http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom0 0030000000001> the video on AOL Home. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Subject: Re: MId Seat Rail Supports - Where do they go
DAVE AS RENE STATED THEY ARE INSTALLED AT FINAL., DIRECTIONS STATE LATER ON TO FINAL DRILL LANDING GEAR BOLTS FIRST THEN INSTALL MID SUPPORTS ON TOP OF LANNING GEAR SUPPORTS. MY QUESTION TO ALL IS WHAT HARDWARE BOLTS/NUTS DO YOU USE TO ATTACH MID SUPPORTS TO THEIR FINAL POSITION? DAVE LIUDVINAITIS, NJ #40466 **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-10 Project For Sale
Date: Mar 30, 2008
RV-10 project for sale.Asking $120k. To finish it needs: engine, prop, inte rior, paint, ~1000 hours labor. A few photos attached. ERic--(828) 777-7976 Williamsport, PA panel4 (Medium).jpg Transfer 12-25-06 192 (Medium).jpg Transfer 1-30-07 048 (Small).jpg Transfer 2-5-07 033 (Small).jpg Transfe r 2-5-07 034 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 120 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-0 8 121 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 131 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 134 ( Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 138 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 146 (Small). jpg Transfer 3-27-08 150 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 170 (Small).jpg Tr ansfer 3-27-08 194 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 207 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 213 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 214 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 217 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 221 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 223 (S mall).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 224 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 226 (Small).j pg Transfer 3-27-08 228 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 229 (Small).jpg Tra nsfer 3-27-08 230 (Small).jpg Transfer 3-27-08 231 (Small).jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: MId Seat Rail Supports - Where do they go
Date: Mar 30, 2008
As was mentioned, I would wait until EVERYTHING is done with all wiring for your stick grips at least before putting them on. You can put them on before your inspection because there is an inspection panel there, but I would leave it off until the very end. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Mar 30, 2008, at 9:36 AM, Dsyvert(at)aol.com wrote: > To All: > > ON page 28-16 it shows building the Mid Seat Rail Supports - > F-1057, then it says putting them off to the side until after the > gear legs are installed. Can some one tell me on what page they are > installed? I can not seem to find it. > > Thanks > Dave Syvertson > 40625 > > > Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Plastic strip
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Spiral wrap nylon is good ; comes in spindles from McMaster Carr _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:43 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Plastic strip http://www.bonaero.com/Electrical.htm#MS21266 Is this what you are looking for? Vans sells it as MS21266-1n...12" lengths. I used about 4 or five of them. Used E6000 to hold it in place where needed. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Plastic strip I am looking for a plastic strip product I have seen to prevent chaffing on wires or tubing passing through large lightening holes. The product lines the sharp edge of the lighting hole. Can anyone direct me to a source of this product and what it is called? Thanks. Dave Leikam 40496 <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: NEED TO RENT
Looking to rent small, mechanically inclined, child to hook up parking brak e cable an tie off final electrical cables, mainly antennas from center con sole mounted radio stack to main panel. Willing to train only in aircraft m aintenance/assembly. No Potty training. Instructor not qualified to give in struction on dealing/juggling with multiple female relationships. Great ben efit package to include, roller coaster rides at NY NY, Buffalo Bills, Stra tosphere and Sahara Casino's, endless bowl of Mac & Cheese, unlimited Hot d ogs or other foods not allowed controlling mothers/women in general. No hea lth care, friends kids always seems to coming down with "something" then gi ve it to me. Small men (Jockey size parameters are a good start) may also a pply in exchange for more suitable benefits to include adult libations and grilled Porterhouse steaks. Serious inquires only. Sorry had to post this, just finished contorting myself out from under that panel for the umpteenth time and only have those few items left to do. Wish there was a tip up ver sion of the RV-10. =C2- Rick Sked 40185 After finishing the wiring,panel, pitot/static and O2, fiberglass don't seem that bad! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: NEED TO RENT
Rick ..... you should have made your panel completely removeable!!!! Mine surely will be. Linn ..... fuse controls Rick Sked wrote: >Looking to rent small, mechanically inclined, child to hook up parking brake cable an tie off final electrical cables, mainly antennas from center console mounted radio stack to main panel. > >Willing to train only in aircraft maintenance/assembly. No Potty training. Instructor not qualified to give instruction on dealing/juggling with multiple female relationships. > >Great benefit package to include, roller coaster rides at NY NY, Buffalo Bills, Stratosphere and Sahara Casino's, endless bowl of Mac & Cheese, unlimited Hot dogs or other foods not allowed > >controlling mothers/women in general. No health care, friends kids always seems to coming down with "something" then give it to me. Small men (Jockey size parameters are a good start) > >may also apply in exchange for more suitable benefits to include adult libations and grilled Porterhouse steaks. > >Serious inquires only. Sorry had to post this, just finished contorting myself out from under that panel for the umpteenth time and only have those few items left to do. > >Wish there was a tip up version of the RV-10. > > > >Rick Sked > >40185 > >After finishing the wiring,panel, pitot/static and O2, fiberglass don't seem that bad! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Chelton display
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I started the new IO540 this AM; I have the output of an EIS6000 going serially to the Cheltons and a Grand Rapids Sport. The Sport was logging the data. The engine ran fine after switching a couple of wires on the SLICKSTART. The data as displayed on the computer shows normal EGTs for idle of abut 900F. The Chelton engine display, however shows negative numbers in the 2 digits while operating and negative low three digits when shutdown. Any ideas? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NEED TO RENT
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I have a 4 year old. Already experienced under the panel area. Good with a socket wrench,( this how I did my motor mount bolts). Knows how to feed wire and reach into small spaces after dropped parts. We live in Oklahoma City but visit the Buffalo area twice a year. Fee is negotiable, RV rides accepted. "Finishing" kit -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173763#173763 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Project For Sale
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Hey Eric, Can you post the pictures as jpg's without going through the hotmail viewer? I'm currently helping a friend build his -10 and we're making good progress. Much farther down the line will be me building mine -- I've already picked up the tail kit and will eventually need everything else. I'm probably not the customer for you (I'm looking for those who may have bought the standard build fuse & wings, then decide to go quick build) but I'm curious to see what you have. Joe Arnold (RV10-List: RV-10 kit for sale) is also in PA ... Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173772#173772 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Left them in the cradle. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:54:49 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
On the table. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Mar 30, 2008, at 7:54 PM, bruce breckenridge wrote: > For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of > the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as > the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? > > Bruce > 40018 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I kept them in the cradles. Deems has some good photos on his site of the process using wire to hold the skins back while riveting. I found this method to work well. Dave Leikam 40496 attaching tailcone ----- Original Message ----- From: bruce breckenridge To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 7:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
Cradle - looks like 2:1 so far J Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Filtered Airbox
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, Just finishing off the FAB. The VA122 arm used to open/close the alternate air door appears to have been bent to the wrong angle. Anyone else experience this? Cheers, Ron "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Sun-n-Fun
Date: Mar 30, 2008
I'm hoping to get down to Lakeland on Fri or Sat at the end of the show and was reading the arrival NOTAM. It mentioned arrivals are not 'routinely' accepted until AFTER 1830 everyday. Any with previous experience found that to be the case? Seems awfully late in the day to start accepting airplanes considering how many show up. Secondly, are most folks planning on parking in homebuilt and camping, or parking at HBC (homebuilt camping) and living with their airplane? Seems like this may have been hashed out already so sorry if it's a repeat question. Thanks, Marcus ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Yeah, I'm hoping "cradle" wins. My concern is that there's just the slightest sag at the center that pulls together when it's cleco'd. I may just use a ton of clecos and then support the leading edge better before taking the clecos out. Go cradle! Bruce On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 7:49 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote: > Cradle ' looks like 2:1 so far J > > > Marcus > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *bruce breckenridge > *Sent:* Sunday, March 30, 2008 7:55 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins > > > For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the > wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans > say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? > > > Bruce > > 40018 Wings > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Table 2:2 Fred Williams bruce breckenridge wrote: > For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the > wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the > plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? > > Bruce > 40018 Wings > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Checked by AVG. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
On the table. Worked great. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 6:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
PS...I had help on about 70% for each wing, did the rest solo... Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 9:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins On the table. Worked great. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 6:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: NEED TO RENT
Date: Mar 30, 2008
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 30, 2008
In the cradle, by myself. Jeff Carpenter 40304 Fuse Side Skins On Mar 30, 2008, at 5:54 PM, bruce breckenridge wrote: > For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of > the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as > the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? > > Bruce > 40018 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flexible Fuel Lines
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
I want to run flexible fuel lines from just outside the fuselage to make the wing root connection. Has anyone else done similar? Length of line used? Source? Thanks, TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 31, 2008
I can't offer an opinion on this one quite yet, since I'll just be putting on the top skins in the next week or so. I just had the local EAA chapter over to visit my project. One of the questions I was asked was why the RV-10 didn't require the use of a wing jig. Anyone know the answer? It appears to for the other RV models, building a wing jig and getting everything straight was one of their more frustrating tasks. The 3 or 4 builders that had completed both RV-7s and RV-8s were surprised that the instructions to build the RV-10 wing were just to clamp to the work bench. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 31, 2008
No Jig is needed and the wing is dead on because of the prepunch holes. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 6:18 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins I can't offer an opinion on this one quite yet, since I'll just be putting on the top skins in the next week or so. I just had the local EAA chapter over to visit my project. One of the questions I was asked was why the RV-10 didn't require the use of a wing jig. Anyone know the answer? It appears to for the other RV models, building a wing jig and getting everything straight was one of their more frustrating tasks. The 3 or 4 builders that had completed both RV-7s and RV-8s were surprised that the instructions to build the RV-10 wing were just to clamp to the work bench. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Bob: We don't need a jig because of the matched holes and the accuracy of placement on the parts. When they all line up, the wing is straight. Probably _better_ than any jig we could build at home. Fred Williams Bob Leffler wrote: > > I cant offer an opinion on this one quite yet, since Ill just be > putting on the top skins in the next week or so. > > I just had the local EAA chapter over to visit my project. One of the > questions I was asked was why the RV-10 didnt require the use of a > wing jig. Anyone know the answer? > > It appears to for the other RV models, building a wing jig and getting > everything straight was one of their more frustrating tasks. The 3 or > 4 builders that had completed both RV-7s and RV-8s were surprised that > the instructions to build the RV-10 wing were just to clamp to the > work bench. > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Checked by AVG. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivetting Bottom Skins
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Cradle here. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173849#173849 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: HS Attachment Bars
All, I just started my tailcone, and when I went to drill the HS-1011C horizontal stabilizer attachment bars, I found that the pre-punched holes were conical in shape. That is, one side of the hole is a bit larger than the other, larger than the #30 bit used to match drill. I understand that this is probably the result of punching a hole through such a thick piece, but it seems like this would leave a lot of slop for the rivet. Just wanted to check whether others noticed this as well? Should the larger side of the hole be put against the bulkhead? Kent Ogden #40710 (real) slow build ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HS Attachment Bars
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Are you talking about the F 1011C on page 10-3? If the hole is too big you might want to contact Vans for a replacement. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173867#173867 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Rivetting Bottom Skins
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Bruce, My wife and I did them on the table. The first one took forever but the second one we did in about half a Saturday. We attribute the difference in speed to getting a tungsten bucking bar. You can borrow mine if you want. I will gladly come help you out with a few days advanced warning. I also have a couple different sets that work great around the flap attach brackets. Some things to think about. 1) Have you planned your pitot location and tubing and wiring and if you use the gretz where you are going to mount the circuit board? 2) Have you run conduit for wiring up lights? 3) Have you run tubing for the AOA ports (if your using AFS's AOA)? 4) Have you built your control rod tubing yet and fit it? Ben Westfall #40579 PDX _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rivetting Bottom Skins For those that have completed the rivetting of the bottom skins of the wings, did you leave the wings in the cradle? or, did you do as the plans say (page 20-5, step 2) and lay them on the table? Bruce 40018 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: Re: HS Attachment Bars
Yes, these parts first appear on page 10-3. These are the heavy tapered bars that will attach the HS to the tailcone. This would be a bad place for failure to occur. I will give Vans a call to see what they say. Kent >>> "johngoodman" 3/31/2008 10:04 AM >>> Are you talking about the F 1011C on page 10-3? If the hole is too big you might want to contact Vans for a replacement. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173867#173867 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: Re: HS Attachment Bars
Just talked to Vans, they said it's normal and the shank of the rivet will expand to fill the hole. Kent >>> "johngoodman" 3/31/2008 10:04 AM >>> Are you talking about the F 1011C on page 10-3? If the hole is too big you might want to contact Vans for a replacement. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173867#173867 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cost effective parking brake solution (Matco) ($170)
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2008
I just finished the install of my Matco parking brake. Went really well. At least I will see when I hot up the brake system 1. I used an unused bracket (F1048F) from my QB kit - riveted 2. Matco brake from Matco (also from Vans) $115-120 with shipping 3. A few plumbing fittings modified from Spruce ($15-20) 4. A CT-A740 Cable from Vans ($25) 5. One #2 cushion clamp (in FWF/Electrical kit) 6. One Bowden cable end fitting (Vans $6.00) Ran the cable to the F-1002-L frame and terminated it there. I figure that down low at your ankles - it is out of the way (recessed) -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173908#173908 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Service Ceiling
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Service Ceiling, what is it? My definition, highest altitude you can maintain 100 foot rate of climb. I tested it today, these results are not scientific, but it looks like 20,100 for my airplane fully loaded to max. Very close to the aft CG. No wheel fairings. Had a break in the weather this morning, so I ran to the airport and did my service ceiling testing. Got a block of airspace over the Ogden VOR, the Salt Lake Controllers are great. The airplane performed well, it was my first flight at gross weight and I really did not see very much difference in handling. The EFIS showed 100 knot winds at altitude and thus I was almost standing still while I was headed west....I should of looked at my ground speed I am sure it was close if not 0 at times. It looks like Vans numbers are right on for me. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: N789AB FLIES
Date: Mar 31, 2008
N789AB WAS SEEN IN THE FLORIDA SKYS THIS MORNING FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND IT LOOKED GOOD I AM TOLD. I HAD A PRETTY GOOD SHAKE DOWN FLIGHT, WITH ONLY A FEW (HOPEFULLY) PROBLEMS. IT HANDLED WELL AND MOST THINGS WORKED, BUT HAD SOME NOSE WHEEL SHIMMY ON LANDING AND IT ACTUALLY ATE UP ONE OF THE BEARINGS. I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE ON THE THE LIST FOR THEIR INFO AND IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THESE MACHINES IN THE AIR SAFELY. I HAVE A SAM JAMES COWL AMD PLENUM SO I'LL GET SOME PERF. NUMBERS OUT WHEN I GET A FEW MORE HOURS. THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP BUILDING CAUSE FLYING FEELS SOOOOO GOOD. BLUE SKYS BARRY Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Service Ceiling
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Thanks for reporting the performance. Gross Weight, Aft CG and required climb margin. Was that an Aerosport IO-540D4A5 or a Barrett 9:1 Cold Air with Forsling tuned exhaust? John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Service Ceiling Service Ceiling, what is it? My definition, highest altitude you can maintain 100 foot rate of climb. I tested it today, these results are not scientific, but it looks like 20,100 for my airplane fully loaded to max. Very close to the aft CG. No wheel fairings. Had a break in the weather this morning, so I ran to the airport and did my service ceiling testing. Got a block of airspace over the Ogden VOR, the Salt Lake Controllers are great. The airplane performed well, it was my first flight at gross weight and I really did not see very much difference in handling. The EFIS showed 100 knot winds at altitude and thus I was almost standing still while I was headed west....I should of looked at my ground speed I am sure it was close if not 0 at times. It looks like Vans numbers are right on for me. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: N789AB FLIES
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Congrats, let us know what happened to cause the bearing problem. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: N789AB FLIES N789AB WAS SEEN IN THE FLORIDA SKYS THIS MORNING FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND IT LOOKED GOOD I AM TOLD. I HAD A PRETTY GOOD SHAKE DOWN FLIGHT, WITH ONLY A FEW (HOPEFULLY) PROBLEMS. IT HANDLED WELL AND MOST THINGS WORKED, BUT HAD SOME NOSE WHEEL SHIMMY ON LANDING AND IT ACTUALLY ATE UP ONE OF THE BEARINGS. I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE ON THE THE LIST FOR THEIR INFO AND IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THESE MACHINES IN THE AIR SAFELY. I HAVE A SAM JAMES COWL AMD PLENUM SO I'LL GET SOME PERF. NUMBERS OUT WHEN I GET A FEW MORE HOURS. THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP BUILDING CAUSE FLYING FEELS SOOOOO GOOD. BLUE SKYS BARRY Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Service Ceiling
Date: Mar 31, 2008
I have an overhauled C4D5, with the Vans provided exhaust. Dual mags. Just a stock engine and the two blade Hartzell. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Ceiling Thanks for reporting the performance. Gross Weight, Aft CG and required climb margin. Was that an Aerosport IO-540D4A5 or a Barrett 9:1 Cold Air with Forsling tuned exhaust? John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Service Ceiling Service Ceiling, what is it? My definition, highest altitude you can maintain 100 foot rate of climb. I tested it today, these results are not scientific, but it looks like 20,100 for my airplane fully loaded to max. Very close to the aft CG. No wheel fairings. Had a break in the weather this morning, so I ran to the airport and did my service ceiling testing. Got a block of airspace over the Ogden VOR, the Salt Lake Controllers are great. The airplane performed well, it was my first flight at gross weight and I really did not see very much difference in handling. The EFIS showed 100 knot winds at altitude and thus I was almost standing still while I was headed west....I should of looked at my ground speed I am sure it was close if not 0 at times. It looks like Vans numbers are right on for me. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Service Ceiling
Is that adjusted for density altitude, or just indicated altitude? How far off std temp and pressure were the conditions? On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Rene Felker wrote: > > I have an overhauled C4D5, with the Vans provided exhaust. Dual mags. Just > a stock engine and the two blade Hartzell. > > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox > Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:33 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Ceiling > > > Thanks for reporting the performance. Gross Weight, Aft CG and required > climb margin. > > Was that an Aerosport IO-540D4A5 or a Barrett 9:1 Cold Air with Forsling > tuned exhaust? > > John Cox > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker > Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Service Ceiling > > > Service Ceiling, what is it? > > My definition, highest altitude you can maintain 100 foot rate of climb. > > I tested it today, these results are not scientific, but it looks like > 20,100 for my airplane fully loaded to max. Very close to the aft CG. > No > wheel fairings. > > Had a break in the weather this morning, so I ran to the airport and did > my > service ceiling testing. Got a block of airspace over the Ogden VOR, > the > Salt Lake Controllers are great. The airplane performed well, it was my > first flight at gross weight and I really did not see very much > difference > in handling. The EFIS showed 100 knot winds at altitude and thus I was > almost standing still while I was headed west....I should of looked at > my > ground speed I am sure it was close if not 0 at times. > > It looks like Vans numbers are right on for me. > > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: N789AB FLIES
Nice job Barry, Congratulations, re nose wheel, 1. Did you have the steel or aluminum spacers? 2. Did you make any provisions to 'anchor' the spacers so that they don't spin on the axle ? Also VERY interested in hearing any information/data on the cowl/plenum combo, EGT's, CHT's Oil temps etc. THANKS Deems Davis # 406 Waiting on the painter................. http://deemsrv10.com/ Barry Marz wrote: > > N789AB WAS SEEN IN THE FLORIDA SKYS THIS MORNING FOR THE FIRST TIME, > AND IT LOOKED GOOD I AM TOLD. I HAD A PRETTY GOOD SHAKE DOWN FLIGHT, > WITH ONLY A FEW (HOPEFULLY) PROBLEMS. IT HANDLED WELL AND MOST THINGS > WORKED, BUT HAD SOME NOSE WHEEL SHIMMY ON LANDING AND IT ACTUALLY ATE > UP ONE OF THE BEARINGS. I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE ON THE THE LIST FOR > THEIR INFO AND IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THESE MACHINES IN THE AIR SAFELY. I > HAVE A SAM JAMES COWL AMD PLENUM SO I'LL GET SOME PERF. NUMBERS OUT > WHEN I GET A FEW MORE HOURS. THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP BUILDING CAUSE > FLYING FEELS SOOOOO GOOD. BLUE SKYS BARRY > > Barry Marz > 18735 Baseleg AVE. > FT. Myers, Fl 33917 > 239-567-2271 > blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Primer overhead console and cabin interior
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2008
I like the 2 part epoxy primers - way better than the rattle can stuff. I am not so keen on the rattle can stuff as it probably has some oils in it which may prevent good adhesion later. I am using Nason (Dupont) products, but a friend of mine is using Sherwin Williams. If I were starting today, I would go with the SW product as it seems more uniform. The Epoxies are a pain to mix and spray, but they are tough as nails when dry -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174055#174055 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N789AB FLIES
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2008
Congratulations - you guys finishing up inspire the worker bees. Wow - I think that three joined the fraternity this week. Puff chested ( and properly earned) picture required -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174057#174057 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Service Ceiling
Date: Mar 31, 2008
I made no adjustments. Thought I might figure that out tonight, but went flying instead.....the choices we make. Maybe later this week I will figure it out. It was cold today, around 33 at takeoff.... Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 5:15 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Ceiling Is that adjusted for density altitude, or just indicated altitude? How far off std temp and pressure were the conditions? On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Rene Felker wrote: > > I have an overhauled C4D5, with the Vans provided exhaust. Dual mags. Just > a stock engine and the two blade Hartzell. > > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox > Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:33 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Ceiling > > > Thanks for reporting the performance. Gross Weight, Aft CG and required > climb margin. > > Was that an Aerosport IO-540D4A5 or a Barrett 9:1 Cold Air with Forsling > tuned exhaust? > > John Cox > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker > Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Service Ceiling > > > Service Ceiling, what is it? > > My definition, highest altitude you can maintain 100 foot rate of climb. > > I tested it today, these results are not scientific, but it looks like > 20,100 for my airplane fully loaded to max. Very close to the aft CG. > No > wheel fairings. > > Had a break in the weather this morning, so I ran to the airport and did > my > service ceiling testing. Got a block of airspace over the Ogden VOR, > the > Salt Lake Controllers are great. The airplane performed well, it was my > first flight at gross weight and I really did not see very much > difference > in handling. The EFIS showed 100 knot winds at altitude and thus I was > almost standing still while I was headed west....I should of looked at > my > ground speed I am sure it was close if not 0 at times. > > It looks like Vans numbers are right on for me. > > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Flexible Fuel Lines
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I'm using flexible SS over teflon lines available from www.anplumbing.com I've used them for the brake system as well. Their customer service is excellent, give them a call with your questions. The series of hose I used is called. "Speed-Flex" also these guys have installation videos up on youtube! http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/ Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: N789AB FLIES
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Congratulations, Barry! That must have been a thrill. Hope the bearing problem is an obvious fix. Keep us informed of that and the how the cowl and plenum effects things. John J -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: N789AB FLIES N789AB WAS SEEN IN THE FLORIDA SKYS THIS MORNING FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND IT LOOKED GOOD I AM TOLD. I HAD A PRETTY GOOD SHAKE DOWN FLIGHT, WITH ONLY A FEW (HOPEFULLY) PROBLEMS. IT HANDLED WELL AND MOST THINGS WORKED, BUT HAD SOME NOSE WHEEL SHIMMY ON LANDING AND IT ACTUALLY ATE UP ONE OF THE BEARINGS. I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE ON THE THE LIST FOR THEIR INFO AND IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THESE MACHINES IN THE AIR SAFELY. I HAVE A SAM JAMES COWL AMD PLENUM SO I'LL GET SOME PERF. NUMBERS OUT WHEN I GET A FEW MORE HOURS. THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP BUILDING CAUSE FLYING FEELS SOOOOO GOOD. BLUE SKYS BARRY Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2008
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-1 0. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how m uch it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that rene wal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull valu e, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,0 18. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace wa s $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull v alue or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within the last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2008
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Bob, thanks for the info. I just contacted my agent at AIG to see if he is aware of this program since I meet all of the requirements tha t you had listed. Thank You Ray Doerr ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 12:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received qu otes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument r ated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This include s a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of fir st flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything bu t with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with r equirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into pl ay. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft . You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within t he last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requ irements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or rad ar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually th ereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months rela ted to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-1 0. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how m uch it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that rene wal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull valu e, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,0 18. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace wa s $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull v alue or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I am getting ready to fly January 103 (aka April 13) and just paid $3325 to Globe for the EAA insurance for 150K hull. AIG offered $2715 but deductible was 10% for test period. AVEMCO , for a laugh, wanted $5400. My TT is 4000+ COM CFII A&P; They required that I get one hour of RV10 dual (The travel to TX) exceeded the cost of the dual by a factor of 5. After I have flown the test period I will be providing two hours dual to my building partner whose total time is about 250 in C152 and Glastar. He is PVT A&P only; addtional insurance cost is $900 annually. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Golden Eagle software
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I was in Tina's pilot shop yesterday, which is located at 52F, Roanoke, TX, and saw an item one of you might possible be interested in at her store. She has on consignment a brand new, never used, Golden Eagle System http://www.flightprep.com/ ,which includes all the hardware and their software to get all the info a person would need for IFR flight and flight planning. The person that is selling it is a person, as I understand it, who has just started his pilots training and got a little ahead of himself in buying this. The computer is, I believe a Toshiba, and it has an external drive with all the quizmos, I guess. I didn't check everything out completely I just saw it in the display case and talked to Tina a little about it. Tina told me that the person had just paid $5,500 for it, which included a 1 year subscription to Golden Eagles chart updates, which is their 28 day update cycle. I would have looked at buying this for myself but I just recently bought a system very similar to this one from Golden Eagle. I'm not sure what this person would entertain as an offer but I'm guessing a person could possible save up to a couple thousand dollars. No harm in making an offer if your looking. So if any of you have been thinking about a system like this I would suggest you give Tina a call and have her explain in detail included in the system, she said it a full blown system, and make an offer. www.tinaspilotshop.com Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Here is one big reason to sift through all of the posts during the year. Great Information. Fly Safe, Fly Often, Fly RV-10s John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within the last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: N46007
Date: Apr 01, 2008
N46007 is now an airplane. The DAR (Phil Beck of Paladin Aerospace) completed the inspection this afternoon. He required checking of the correct movement of all controls, reviewed the placards and checked pilot reach of all controls. I received a 25 hour test period for the PHX southern route. Also today I checked the EIS graphics on the GRT Sport. The Cheltons are my primary Flight instrumentation but the GRT Sport was selected as backup and it provides a separate PFD,MFD or EIS or XM page. The new EIS page has a nice graphic display comparable in info as the Chelton engine page. First flight should be either 4/13 or 4/20. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Tailcone attach gotchas
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I did the initial tailcone attach today, and ran into a gottcha that I thought I would share. It turns out the quickbuild fuselage was built with the F10102A baggage door seal angle 1/16 inch too long. This is the angle riveted below the F1046L longeron. This angle butts up to the tailcone longeron, which is positioned under the fuselage longeron. Because you cannot see this interference unless you really look for it with a mirror, I was unaware that it was keeping the left side of the tailcone from getting forward enough to line up with the holes in the fuselage. A lot of time was spent swearing and trying to get it in position, before the we found the problem. I was able to drill out several of the 1/8 inch rivets, and place a .060 piece of scrap between the longeron, and angle, then use a cutoff disk on a dremmel to shorten the angle, and get a fit. I'll clean up the cut after the tailcone is removed again. I suggest that you measure the angle from a reference, like the side skin rivet holes to make sure yours aren't too long, before you wrestle the tailcone onto the fuselage. Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Wing Stand
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I had bookmarked Larry Rosen's site because he had detailed plans for building a wing stand. Unfortunately, his site is offline. I've found many pictures of wing stands on other sites, but no detailed plans. I was hoping to find dimensions and a bill of materials. Does anyone have a copy of Larry's plans or can point me to where I can find them (or something similar) online? Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Stand
Sorry my site is down. Send you a pdf and photo of list. Let me know if you need more information. Larry Bob Leffler wrote: > > I had bookmarked Larry Rosens site because he had detailed plans for > building a wing stand. Unfortunately, his site is offline. Ive found > many pictures of wing stands on other sites, but no detailed plans. I > was hoping to find dimensions and a bill of materials. Does anyone > have a copy of Larrys plans or can point me to where I can find them > (or something similar) online? > > Thanks, > > Bob > > #40684 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: N46007
Congratulations David. That is huge. David McNeill wrote: > N46007 is now an airplane. The DAR (Phil Beck of Paladin Aerospace) > completed the inspection this afternoon. He required checking of the > correct movement of all controls, reviewed the placards and checked > pilot reach of all controls. I received a 25 hour test period for the > PHX southern route. Also today I checked the EIS graphics on the GRT > Sport. The Cheltons are my primary Flight instrumentation but the GRT > Sport was selected as backup and it provides a separate PFD,MFD or EIS > or XM page. The new EIS page has a nice graphic display comparable in > info as the Chelton engine page. First flight should be either 4/13 or > 4/20. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net>
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
Talking of insurance, when in the building process have builder gotten hull insurance to cover their investment? Tom Ganster 40778 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:23 PM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Here is one big reason to sift through all of the posts during the year. Great Information. Fly Safe, Fly Often, Fly RV-10s John Cox _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn=92t cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn=92t know this and didn=92t have an IPC within the last year so didn=92t get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close=85 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It=92s that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG=92s premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that=92s $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan=92t to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List "http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tailcone attach gotchas
Date: Apr 01, 2008
Chris, I just connected my tailcone to my QB fuse and did not find this problem. Maybe my kit is later? Dave Leikam 40496 ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Hukill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone attach gotchas I did the initial tailcone attach today, and ran into a gottcha that I thought I would share. It turns out the quickbuild fuselage was built with the F10102A baggage door seal angle 1/16 inch too long. This is the angle riveted below the F1046L longeron. This angle butts up to the tailcone longeron, which is positioned under the fuselage longeron. Because you cannot see this interference unless you really look for it with a mirror, I was unaware that it was keeping the left side of the tailcone from getting forward enough to line up with the holes in the fuselage. A lot of time was spent swearing and trying to get it in position, before the we found the problem. I was able to drill out several of the 1/8 inch rivets, and place a .060 piece of scrap between the longeron, and angle, then use a cutoff disk on a dremmel to shorten the angle, and get a fit. I'll clean up the cut after the tailcone is removed again. I suggest that you measure the angle from a reference, like the side skin rivet holes to make sure yours aren't too long, before you wrestle the tailcone onto the fuselage. Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I did not get insurance until a couple of days before first flight. Helped me not rush the first flight.. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Ganster Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 8:27 PM Subject: RE: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Talking of insurance, when in the building process have builder gotten hull insurance to cover their investment? Tom Ganster 40778 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:23 PM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Here is one big reason to sift through all of the posts during the year. Great Information. Fly Safe, Fly Often, Fly RV-10s John Cox _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within the last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www..matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 01, 2008
You need flight/ground insurance when you start the engine as that procedure is not covered under builders insurance; at least the EAA broker sees it that way. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:42 PM Subject: RE: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. I did not get insurance until a couple of days before first flight. Helped me not rush the first flight.. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Ganster Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 8:27 PM Subject: RE: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Talking of insurance, when in the building process have builder gotten hull insurance to cover their investment? Tom Ganster 40778 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:23 PM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Here is one big reason to sift through all of the posts during the year. Great Information. Fly Safe, Fly Often, Fly RV-10s John Cox _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within the last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Tailcone attach gotchas
My kit is #40157, and it had the same problem. Sam Marlow Dave Leikam wrote: > Chris, > > I just connected my tailcone to my QB fuse and did not find this > problem. Maybe my kit is later? > > Dave Leikam > 40496 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Chris Hukill > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:41 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Tailcone attach gotchas > > I did the initial tailcone attach today, and ran into a gottcha > that I thought I would share. It turns out the quickbuild fuselage > was built with the F10102A baggage door seal angle 1/16 inch too > long. This is the angle riveted below the F1046L longeron. This > angle butts up to the tailcone longeron, which is positioned under > the fuselage longeron. Because you cannot see this interference > unless you really look for it with a mirror, I was unaware that it > was keeping the left side of the tailcone from getting forward > enough to line up with the holes in the fuselage. A lot of time > was spent swearing and trying to get it in position, before the we > found the problem. I was able to drill out several of the 1/8 inch > rivets, and place a .060 piece of scrap between the longeron, and > angle, then use a cutoff disk on a dremmel to shorten the angle, > and get a fit. I'll clean up the cut after the tailcone is removed > again. I suggest that you measure the angle from a reference, like > the side skin rivet holes to make sure yours aren't too long, > before you wrestle the tailcone onto the fuselage. > Chris Hukill > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: RE: Insurance Renewal Time once again
Date: Apr 01, 2008
I also just received a quote for my insurance renewal, which is coming up in June. Last year I had Jim Pappas as an agent and he put me with AIG. I had the hull value at $200,000, a little low, with $1,000,000 coverage. There is some small deductible amount. The premium was $3,379 As many of you may know Jim decided to no longer be an insurance agent so I went to EAA who got me a quote from Global & AIG for my renewal. I have about 2000 hours, about 100 in type, and I'm twin engine instrument rated with a glider rating, I don't know if that helps or not. I've also completed the Wings program level 11. The only reason I'm saying all of this is for comparison on quotes. On the quotes that I just received it appears that Global is a better choice for me. They have no deductible and several other benefits that AIG doesn't and my new rate will be $2,950. Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: N46007
Way to go Dude!!!!! Looking forward ot your 1st flight. Nice job! Deems David McNeill wrote: > N46007 is now an airplane. The DAR (Phil Beck of Paladin Aerospace) > completed the inspection this afternoon. He required checking of the > correct movement of all controls, reviewed the placards and checked > pilot reach of all controls. I received a 25 hour test period for the > PHX southern route. Also today I checked the EIS graphics on the GRT > Sport. The Cheltons are my primary Flight instrumentation but the GRT > Sport was selected as backup and it provides a separate PFD,MFD or EIS > or XM page. The new EIS page has a nice graphic display comparable in > info as the Chelton engine page. First flight should be either 4/13 or > 4/20. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tailcone attach gotchas
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 01, 2008
No problem like this on 40663 QB delivered 4/07 -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174292#174292 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing Stand
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 01, 2008
Belated thanks Larry - the wing stand saves boku space and works great -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174293#174293 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tailcone attach gotchas
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Hey Chris, Our QB fuse did not have that problem (40695), but after much grunting and swearing, I DID discover a temporary pop rivet in that area that would not allow the tail to mesh in the baggage door area. We felt stupid after we discovered it and it did finally fit ... still not my favorite thing to do!! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174305#174305 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
I didn't insure mine until it was time for the trip to the airp ort from the garage. Thank You Ray Doerr ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Ganster Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:27 PM Subject: RE: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once a gain. Talking of insurance, when in the building process have builder gotten hull insurance to cover their investment? Tom Ganster 40778 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:23 PM Subject: **Possible_Spam** RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again . Here is one big reason to sift through all of the posts during the year. G reat Information. Fly Safe, Fly Often, Fly RV-10s John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received qu otes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument r ated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This include s a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of fir st flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything bu t with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with r equirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into pl ay. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft . You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within t he last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requ irements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or rad ar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually th ereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months rela ted to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-1 0. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how m uch it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that rene wal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull valu e, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,0 18. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace wa s $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull v alue or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM Checked by AVG. 3/30/2008 12:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Subject: N46007
Very good to hear! I'm probably going to be doing almost the same thing pa nel wise. Dual Cheltons except with an AFS-3400 or 3500 for engine integra tion and backup EFIS. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 7:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: N46007 N46007 is now an airplane. The DAR (Phil Beck of Paladin Aerospace) complet ed the inspection this afternoon. He required checking of the correct movem ent of all controls, reviewed the placards and checked pilot reach of all c ontrols. I received a 25 hour test period for the PHX southern route. Also today I checked the EIS graphics on the GRT Sport. The Cheltons are my prim ary Flight instrumentation but the GRT Sport was selected as backup and it provides a separate PFD,MFD or EIS or XM page. The new EIS page has a nice graphic display comparable in info as the Chelton engine page. First flight should be either 4/13 or 4/20. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: N46007
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Wonderful news! _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 5:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: N46007 N46007 is now an airplane. The DAR (Phil Beck of Paladin Aerospace) completed the inspection this afternoon. He required checking of the correct movement of all controls, reviewed the placards and checked pilot reach of all controls. I received a 25 hour test period for the PHX southern route. Also today I checked the EIS graphics on the GRT Sport. The Cheltons are my primary Flight instrumentation but the GRT Sport was selected as backup and it provides a separate PFD,MFD or EIS or XM page. The new EIS page has a nice graphic display comparable in info as the Chelton engine page. First flight should be either 4/13 or 4/20. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: paint shops AR
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Any user feedback on the paint shops at Mena AR? I had my 177RG painted there in 1984 and 1999 but the shops have changed ownership since then. Any current fedback? I am looking for a simple Jetglow Matterhorn white base color and Deep Maroon trim (stab tips, wing tips , rudder tips, stripe, etc). Particularily interested in the quality of work and the ability to meet time and money committments ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Damon Wack <dwack(at)flbb.net>
Subject: Re: paint shops AR
Date: Apr 02, 2008
I don't know about now but when I worked for Comair in the 1990's we used to fly the Metroliners to Mena for paint work. On Apr 2, 2008, at 9:42 AM, David McNeill wrote: > Any user feedback on the paint shops at Mena AR? I had my 177RG > painted there in 1984 and 1999 but the shops have changed ownership > since then. Any current fedback? I am looking for a simple Jetglow > Matterhorn white base color and Deep Maroon trim (stab tips, wing tips > , rudder tips, stripe, etc). Particularily interested in the quality > of work and the ability to meet time and money committments > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: paint shops AR
Best quality and price I've seen is at "aircraftpainting.com" , great guys to deal with. Ask to see my RV10 pic. Sam Marlow #40157 David McNeill wrote: > Any user feedback on the paint shops at Mena AR? I had my 177RG > painted there in 1984 and 1999 but the shops have changed ownership > since then. Any current fedback? I am looking for a simple Jetglow > Matterhorn white base color and Deep Maroon trim (stab tips, wing tips > , rudder tips, stripe, etc). Particularily interested in the quality > of work and the ability to meet time and money committments > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: New Product Announcement
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Fellow RV Builders, I'd like to make you aware that we are introducing a new flap controller to our line-up of products at TCW Technologies. TCW Technologies currently provides the Safety-Trim series of servo controllers. The new product, Intelligent Flap Controller IFC-1 will be featured along with Safety-Trim at our booth at Sun-n-Fun. (booth N-96) IFC-1 was specifically designed to drive the Van's Flap actuator and has some key features not available in other flap controllers. IFC-1 provides for simple wiring of Pilot and Co-Pilot flap switches and provides Vfe protection to guard against accidental flap deployment. All the details are available at http://www.tcwtech.com/Aviation%20Products.htm IFC-1 will be available directly from our web site or at Stein Air, Inc. www.steinair.com Thank you, Bob Newman (40176) TCW Technologies. www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Thanks Bob, I will owe you a few beers at Oshkosh this year. M y Agent just got back to be about the 10% discount for Technologically Adva nced Aircraft (TAA). AIG said I do meet these requirements and in fact the discount worked out to more than 10%, it was 12.2% in my case, or a saving s of $368. So here is how it looks. Hull Value w 5% AOPA w 5% AOPA and TAA discount $150,000 $2714 $2384 $170,000 $3,018 $2,650 So I told him to go ahead with the $170K on the Hull. For those of you guys that are still planning your panels, this is great information if you were sitting on the fence about having an IFR Certified GPS, Moving Map etc. It may pay for itself some time down the ro ad with this yearly discount. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 12:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received qu otes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument r ated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This include s a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of fir st flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything bu t with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with r equirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into pl ay. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft . You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within t he last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requ irements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or rad ar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually th ereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months rela ted to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-1 0. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how m uch it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that rene wal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull valu e, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,0 18. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace wa s $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull v alue or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Buying and Selling RV-10s
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Just received my SNF '08 Complimentary copy of TRADE-A-PLANE (Volume 71) and found four RV-10s for sale #40441, #40423, #40144 and don't forget Eric's #40014. *** Then this morning someone posted a Question on Best Buying Practices on finished RVs. "I think a set of Best Practices for used RV pre-buy/purchasing would be helpful. Has anything like this been compiled before? I'm thinking about: Indicators of good construction (with photos) Indicators of poor construction (with photos) What to look for in the logs (good and bad) What tests to do? (avionics, engine, etc) Should an Oil Analysis be done? What quirks to be aware of between models... I think something like this would be very helpful to any non-A&P shopping for a used RV. -Andrew" The RV-10 is just too shiny and new to use my standard inspection techniques, but it is worth consideration when looking at another's work. It is amazing to track all of the RV-10s that have already resold and those now "On the Block". I am still fascinated at the high percentage of RV-10s which go on the blocks after the build is complete. Wish you guys would hold the longer and let market forces sent the value through the roof. When considering purchase of an older RV aircraft, I do a comprehensive review of all three logbooks; Airframe, Engine and Prop. The last one was an RV-6A which had over Nine joyous years and 950+ hours on it. I actually take the entries and convert them to Excel so I can do multiple searches of the hard data. Holes in the data entry can tell as much as what is sometimes written into them. Step 1 - Regularity and time between oil changes (or big periods of neglect). Step 2 - Rate of accumulated hours on the airframe. Step 3 - Replacement of failed components. Step 4 - Compliance with A.D.s and the time to respond (a Hot Topic lately). Step 5 - Compliance with S.B.s. Step 6 - Consideration of where the aircraft was flown and time to MOH. Step 7 - The accuracy and completeness of required logbook entries (Including transponder, VOR and ELT. Step 8 - In depth review of all Operating Checklists. Step 9 - The Conditional Inspection list and A differential cylinder pressure test should be completed on the powerplant with leak down results (when the engine is properly warmed to operating temperature). You really should fly the bird you are considering purchasing. Using a Digital Level (+/- 0.1=B0), check the rigging and movement of all control surfaces for compliance to Spec. Use three calibrated scales and reweigh the aircraft as "Properly Configured". Check your calculations with those that the manufacturer entered during the DAR inspection process. You don't want to be using Lycoming data with a Subaru powerplant or an incorrect battery weight and location. A review of two continuous oil analysis reports helps to develop a trend and not just a one time "Snap Shot". If you don't have them, start now. Check ignition timing and do a complete visual inspection of ignition components. One Mag was significantly off the timing marks. All lower plugs were Lead fouled. Check for RPM rise upon Leaning at Shutdown for correct setting. With higher fuel costs, the use of Mogas is going to become an issue with future purchases. Take digital pictures of the (Behind the Scenes) Instrument Panel construction and wiring. Get your favorite Avionics shop to critique the condition of wiring routing, connections and mount techniques. This is always a heavy hit $$$ when they want to rework or correct an installation. When in doubt, get an A&P who is an active I/A or does lots of RVs Conditionals of the model you covet to do your Pre-Purchase inspection. The investment in money can save a lot when tackling the responsibility of ownership on an Amateur Built aircraft. Remember that you don't get to hold the Repairman Certificate, so future Conditionals are more challenging. That right stays with the Seller, So maybe he will sign each future Conditional Inspection and stay on the hook with you? It is amazing what can be hidden by shiny new paint and filler. Tim or someone needs to start a Gotcha List for prospective buyers on items to look for. Keeping a High Resale Value and Lower Insurance costs, coupled with a low accident record is in every builder's self interest. Let the Excitement of Sun N Fun '08 begin. John Cox ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flap Switch
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
anyone know where to get a flap switch--3 position like some use on the Infinity grip, but for panel mounting. I would like it to have a broader 'toggle' than standard toggle switch so I can tell by feel it is flaps. thanks -------- Larry N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174398#174398 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
A/C Spruce has the infinity switches. lbgjb10 wrote: > > anyone know where to get a flap switch--3 position like some use on the Infinity grip, but for panel mounting. I would like it to have a broader 'toggle' than standard toggle switch so I can tell by feel it is flaps. thanks > > -------- > Larry N104LG > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174398#174398 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
thanks for the reply, but I want a functioning switch 'like' what is on the infinity grip, but for panel mounting not on the grip. AT A/C they had switches for the grip. I would like the 'handle' on the toggle to be flat rather than regular round toggle. lbb -------- Larry & Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174426#174426 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
The toggle switch on my infinity grip, that I use for the flaps is a flat blade type. It could be used anywhere. You just need the correct part numbers, which I unfortunately don't have at the moment. But I'm sure someone on the list has them readily at hand. bgjb10 wrote: > > thanks for the reply, but I want a functioning switch 'like' what is on the infinity grip, but for panel mounting not on the grip. AT A/C they had switches for the grip. I would like the 'handle' on the toggle to be flat rather than regular round toggle. lbb > > -------- > Larry & Gayle N104LG > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174426#174426 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Apparently they're pretty hard to come by. You might try one of the A/ C salvage yards, such as Wentworth in the twin cities. Some folks here have "rolled their own" with appropriate machine tools. They slipped a "home-made" flap-shaped Al cover on a standard toggle, and held it in place with a set screw. That's beyond my level! We put our flap switch inside a cage-like guard and just used a standard toggle configuration. It's the only guarded switch on the panel - I think that will work well, and it's protected from accidental activation in turbulence, for example. Good luck! Marlys and John 40458 On Apr 2, 2008, at 4:24 PM, lbgjb10 wrote: > > thanks for the reply, but I want a functioning switch 'like' what > is on the infinity grip, but for panel mounting not on the grip. AT > A/C they had switches for the grip. I would like the 'handle' on > the toggle to be flat rather than regular round toggle. lbb > > -------- > Larry & Gayle N104LG > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174426#174426 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
Avionics Hanger has them for $89. <http://www.avionicshangar.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=85> Or roll your own. Some photos and instructions from Aeroelectric Bob http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Flap_Switch.jpg http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS1.JPG http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS2.JPG http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS3.JPG http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Toggle_Shaft.jpg Larry Rosen lbgjb10 wrote: > > thanks for the reply, but I want a functioning switch 'like' what is on the infinity grip, but for panel mounting not on the grip. AT A/C they had switches for the grip. I would like the 'handle' on the toggle to be flat rather than regular round toggle. lbb > > -------- > Larry & Gayle N104LG > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174426#174426 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Switch
t's a bit pricey, but here's a link to Pacific Coast who has a 'paddle' type flap switch.. http://www.pca.aero/OnlineCatalog/PCA_pg40-41.html Right side of page 3/4 way down page. http://www.pca.aero/OnlineCatalog/PCA_pg40-41.html Looks like this installed. (see attached) Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ > > >> >> thanks for the reply, but I want a functioning switch 'like' what is >> on the infinity grip, but for panel mounting not on the grip. AT A/C >> they had switches for the grip. I would like the 'handle' on the >> toggle to be flat rather than regular round toggle. lbb >> >> -------- >> Larry & Gayle N104LG >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174426#174426 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Subject: Re: AFS Systems
Exact same wiring and connections........ Everyone is under a gag order until Sun-n-Fun, so don't even try calling :) -Rob (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Insurance Renewal Time once again.
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Great news Ray - about the discount AND the beers! One thing that I didn't mention before is that complex and/or high performance time also seem to play into the equation. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 11:14 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Thanks Bob, I will owe you a few beers at Oshkosh this year. My Agent just got back to be about the 10% discount for Technologically Advanced Aircraft (TAA). AIG said I do meet these requirements and in fact the discount worked out to more than 10%, it was 12.2% in my case, or a savings of $368. So here is how it looks. Hull Value w 5% AOPA w 5% AOPA and TAA discount $150,000 $2714 $2384 $170,000 $3,018 $2,650 So I told him to go ahead with the $170K on the Hull. For those of you guys that are still planning your panels, this is great information if you were sitting on the fence about having an IFR Certified GPS, Moving Map etc. It may pay for itself some time down the road with this yearly discount. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 12:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. Ray, good info - thanks! I have some additional data to contribute since I very recently received quotes. AIG had a premium of $3,261 for a 150k hull value as an instrument rated pilot with roughly 400 hours TT and 11 hours make/model. This includes a 5% discount for being a member of AOPA. I had one other quote from AIM for $3,050. Difference between the two was essentially in coverage of first flight and during the flyoff period. The AIG quote covers everything but with increased deductible and lower liability during the flyoff period. AIM didn't cover first flight but did include an Open Pilot Warranty with requirements of 500 hours TT and 10 hours make/model. AIG has a breakpoint at 100 hours make/model where a discount comes into play. AIG also has a discount (10% I think) for Technologically Advanced Aircraft. You have to meet the requirements when the quote is generated to get the discount (unfortunately I didn't know this and didn't have an IPC within the last year so didn't get the discount this time). Following are the requirements for that discount: Aircraft Requirements: 1. IFR certified GPS 2. Moving map display 3. 2 axis autopilot Plus 2 of the following systems installed on-board and operational: Terrain awareness such as TAWS, GPWS or EGPWS Traffic avoidance (TCAS) Weather monitoring equipment such as stormscope, datalink or radar Advanced fuel management such as a fuel totalizer RNP capability Pilot Requirements: 1. Private or more advanced pilot certificate with instrument rating 2. Completion of an IPC within the previous 12 months and annually thereafter in the make and model aircraft to be operated 3. Attend/complete 1 of 5 ASF courses in the preceding 12 months related to: a. Single pilot IFR b. Datalink c. Thunderstorms d. IFR GPS e. Runway Safety Bob #40105 So close... _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Insurance Renewal Time once again. It's that time again when my Insurance Renewal is up on my RV-10. I thought I would share with the group what I was just told about how much it was going to cost me this year for insurance. My RV-10 (N519RV) is currently insured with AIG. Last year my premium was $3,144, for a hull value of $150,000. At the time of that renewal, I was an Instrument rated pilot with roughly 300 hours total time and 150 hours in make and model. This year, (renewal on April 20, 2008) AIG's premium is $2,714 for the same $150,000 hull value, that's $430 cheaper than last year. That make me happy. And since I have been considering increasing the hull value, I had them quote it for $170,000 hull value. That quote came in at $3,018. Now to compare, the quote for $150,000 with Global Aerospace was $3,520 Now I just need to figure out if I wan't to increase the hull value or not with AIG. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RE: Insurance Renewal Time once again
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: dougpflyrv(at)aol.com
WAYNE, DO U MIND TELLING US HOW YOUNG U R AND WHO YOUR BROKER IS?? MY INSURANCE, THROUGH NATIONAIR,? RENEWS THE 4TH WITH GLOBAL FOR $3163 AND HULL VALUE OF $180K......SAME AS LAST YEAR. I AM 69, FLY A CORPORATE CITATION (have to pay for the toys) 300 HOURS A YEAR, GO TO SIMUFLITE RECURRENCY EVERY 24 MONTHS, SEL, MEL, ATP, 24,000 + HOURS,? 4 TYPE RATINGS, 600+ HOURS IN 2 PLACE RV's AND 120+ IN MY 10. THERE IS A SNAKE IN THE WOOD PILE SOMEWHERE!!!!!!!!!!!? ALSO, I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THE DISCOUNT PROGRAMS SOME OF THE GUYS MENTIONED. REGARDS, DOUG PRESTON N372RV -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Edgerton <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> Sent: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 10:31 pm Subject: RV10-List: RE: Insurance Renewal Time once again I also just received a quote for my insurance renewal, which is coming up in June. Last year I had Jim Pappas as an agent and he put me with AIG. I had the hull value at $200,000, a little low, with $1,000,000 coverage. There is some small deductible amount. The premium was $3,379?As many of you may know Jim decided to no longer be an insurance agent so I went to EAA who got me a quote from Global & AIG for my renewal. ? I have about 2000 hours, about 100 in type,?and I'm twin engine instrument rated with a glider rating, I don't know if that helps or not. I've also completed the Wings program level 11. The only reason I'm saying all of this is for comparison on quotes. ? On the quotes that I just received it appears that Global is a better choice for me. They have no deductible and several other benefits that AIG doesn't and my new rate will be $2,950. ? Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: AFS Systems
exciting news! please tell when we can get more info off the web since I am not going to be able to see it @ SnF, maybe you might give us a first hand review after you get the gag off? ;-) Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: RobHickman(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 5:46 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS Systems Exact same wiring and connections........ Everyone is under a gag order until Sun-n-Fun, so don't even try calling :) -Rob ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Subject: Re: paint shops AR
Don't know about them, but I just got mine out of the painter's hands here locally, and it is a stupendous job (Tullahoma, TN - THA) Hope to have some pics to post next week. This was his first RV10 and he's painting a turboprop Lancair at the moment. He will also be at his booth at Sun ' Fun. Loehle Aircraft _www.loehle.com_ (http://www.loehle.com) grumpy N184JM / 40404 In a message dated 4/2/2008 9:48:25 A.M. Central Daylight Time, dlm46007(at)cox.net writes: Any user feedback on the paint shops at Mena AR? I had my 177RG painted there in 1984 and 1999 but the shops have changed ownership since then. Any current fedback? I am looking for a simple Jetglow Matterhorn white base color and Deep Maroon trim (stab tips, wing tips , rudder tips, stripe, etc). Particularily interested in the quality of work and the ability to meet time and money committments (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: paint shops AR
Date: Apr 02, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Specific shop mentioned was AOG http://www.aogpaint.com/ I also plan to have my plane painted there. As a side note, my wife discovered Scheme Designers at OSH a couple years ago and AOG is one of their recommended shops. They also were in Aviation Consumer a year or two ago as one of the top shops. Bob In a message dated 4/2/2008 9:48:25 A.M. Central Daylight Time, dlm46007(at)cox.net writes: Any user feedback on the paint shops at Mena AR? I had my 177RG painted there in 1984 and 1999 but the shops have changed ownership since then. Any current fedback? I am looking for a simple Jetglow Matterhorn white base color and Deep Maroon trim (stab tips, wing tips , rudder tips, stripe, etc). Particularily interested in the quality of work and the ability to meet time and money committments ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co m /Navigator?RV10-List .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution _____ <http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv0003000000 0 016> . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2008
Subject: Re: AFS Systems
We will have a new web site up on Tuesday morning. -Rob (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2008
Subject: Re: AFS Systems
Also.... Autopilot I just landed from testing our new autopilot GPS steering, it works really good. We have some minor adjustments to do and then it should be ready for our beta testers. You might even be able to fly home from Sun-n-Fun with it :) It currently follows the bugs or NAV CDI (GPS, VOR, or ILS) To fully use the interface you will need an Autopilot that supports GPS steering, lateral and vertical. I have a Digitrak IIVSGV in my RV-4 and RV-10. You will not be disappointed!!, it will be worth the wait. Weather We have XM weather!! It looks really good on the map screen. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: EFIS One Price Slashed!!!
From: "cdwambolt" <cdwambolt(at)cox.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2008
Well OK, I dropped it a little, and added OBO. BLUE MOUNTAIN EFIS ONE $7,200 OBO FOR SALE Never flown, just back from BMA with memory upgrade and a clean bill of health. This unit provides: Autopilot (servos sold separately), ADI/HSI, compass, Airspeed, Altimeter, Altitude alerter, encoder, VSI, Slip/Skid, Turn and Bank, Clock, OAT, GPS, Moving map, Navigation database, Fuel totalizer, Flight data recorder, Fuel Level, Fuel Flow, Tachometer, Manifold Press, Coolant Temp, Voltmeter, Oil Press, Oil Temp, CHT, EGT, Ammeter, no need for vacuum system Asking less than 1/2 price of new, $7200 OBO Thanks Larry 602-363-2888 Charlie 602-763-7131 -------- C D Wambolt RV-8 Fastback (Showplanes) N8390 CHD (Chandler AZ) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174526#174526 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: paint shops AR
Date: Apr 03, 2008
GLO Custom in Roanoke, TX is doing RV's exclusively. www.glocustom.com Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: AFS Systems (are neato)
Date: Apr 03, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
I can't wait to see what you guys have in store. I had the opportunity to show another builder some of the neato-ness of the AF3400, and he was as impressed as I am. I'm also continually inpressed by the customer service, and responsiveness of Rob and company. Top notch. If you're checking out EFIS systems, I strongly suggest getting a demo of the unit - you won't be disappointed. There's more in the unit than their website shows! cj -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Wed 4/2/2008 9:11 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS Systems We will have a new web site up on Tuesday morning. -Rob (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv0003000000 0016) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: N789AB Flies Wheel Bearing Problem
Date: Apr 03, 2008
First Flight. I had the front wheel installed I/A/W the plans. I had the small SS spacers and the axle was a little longer than the spacer width. I believe I got some shimmy and the spacers allowed a little side load on the bearing and it bent the cage on one set of bearings and locked the wheel up. Second Flight. I set the front wheel up I/A/W Tim's ideas and the big AL spacers and cut the axle back 1/16", so the spacers captured the bearings; and torqued the axle bolt to 190 in/lbs. I also ended up with the pre-load on the forks at +/- 32 lbs. It handled good and had no shimmy and I was able to taxi back to the hangar which is always a plus. I was going to change out the Al spacers for the SS spacers " down the road " but I would suggest that you do it before you fly; more important is cutting the axle back so there's pressure on the spacers and bearings and not the axle. FWIW On the second flight all CHT's were under 400'F and oil temp was 220'F with Sam James cowl and plenum. I will post full perf #'s and temps when I have 5 hrs on the engine. Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: N789AB Flies Wheel Bearing Problem
Date: Apr 03, 2008
Barry, Congratulations on your first flight! Also thank you for the heads up on t he spacers and the oil temperatures. Vern Smith (#324 finishing) Don not archive > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > From: blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com > Subject: RV10-List: N789AB Flies Wheel Bearing Problem > Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 16:18:02 -0400 > > > First Flight. I had the front wheel installed I/A/W the plans. I had > the small SS spacers and the axle was a little longer than the spacer > width. I believe I got some shimmy and the spacers allowed a little > side load on the bearing and it bent the cage on one set of bearings > and locked the wheel up. > Second Flight. I set the front wheel up I/A/W Tim's ideas and the big > AL spacers and cut the axle back 1/16", so the spacers captured the > bearings; and torqued the axle bolt to 190 in/lbs. I also ended up > with the pre-load on the forks at +/- 32 lbs. It handled good and had > no shimmy and I was able to taxi back to the hangar which is always a > plus. > I was going to change out the Al spacers for the SS spacers " down > the road " but I would suggest that you do it before you fly; more > important is cutting the axle back so there's pressure on the spacers > and bearings and not the axle. > FWIW On the second flight all CHT's were under 400'F and oil temp was > 220'F with Sam James cowl and plenum. I will post full perf #'s and > temps when I have 5 hrs on the engine. > Barry Marz > 18735 Baseleg AVE. > FT. Myers, Fl 33917 > 239-567-2271 > blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back up'use SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. L earn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Ref resh_skydrive_packup_042008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing Stand
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 03, 2008
I built mine like Larry & Tim did. Works great. I have plenty of shop room and if I was doing it again I would splurge a few more 2x4s and build a single one for each wing. That way you can get to the top easier (assuming top on inside). Riveting the flap gap fairings is the first time you'd like this; attaching the flaps and ailerons is another. Just a suggestion - if you have the room. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174694#174694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 03, 2008
I plan on arriving Tuesday afternoon and leaving Saturday morning. I'll be camping in the tent area - driving down. Willing to fill requests if asked. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174696#174696 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun
Date: Apr 03, 2008
If we get there in time on Friday we'll be living in an orange Harley Davidson tent. Hopefully we'll stay until Sunday morning. Please swing by and say hello, I'd like to meet some of you great RV-10 folks. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 7:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Sun-n-Fun I plan on arriving Tuesday afternoon and leaving Saturday morning. I'll be camping in the tent area - driving down. Willing to fill requests if asked. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174696#174696 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What it costs to build an RV10
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 03, 2008
I am getting to the light at the end of the money drain, and since I have been keeping careful records of costs, I figured that I would share them with those who may be considering the big move. It looks like my final cost will come in at around $155,000. Vans seems to move up the price about 3% per year, but 5% may be a better assumption in '08-09. I got nailed for an extra 5% on my Hartzell prop by ordering 2 weeks too late. Anyway - here s how it computes: 1. Engine - new IO540 Mattituck - OSH Special $39K 2. QB kit - Empenage - Fuse - Wings - Finish - FWF $55K 3. Panel 1x AFS3500 , TT Auto - Garmin MINIMUM IFR - GPS496 - $33K 4. Prop - Hartzell from vans $6500 5. Paint Reserves $8000 6. Interior Reserves $3500 Includes stuff like good vents $300 + paint This all adds up to $145,000 - where is the extra $10,000 to make $155K Well..........................Believe me these are the hardest of hard costs, It goes for paint (smoothprime $50/Qt) , Tools $3000, Builders training and assist, things like lights - parking brakes - mistakes - new tools - and the biggest expense FREIGHT which increases daily. I picked up my plane by making 2 trips to Vans. Paid $800 for a van/gas/lodging for the big QB pickup then about $500 for a trip for the FWF & Finish kit in my big SUV. I am not counting my trip to OSH where I got some great discounts. The biggest potential savings items are: 1. Engine - but be careful there - you can get shafted big time. I know one guy that bought one with the AD and wound up spending $45K for a used two cycle engine. I know another guy who got a run-out one for $6K 2. Paint - Do it yourself - Save about $5K 3. Panel - I am on the low side at 33K - many guys have the shops do panels for them that average about 70K and one ran $110K. I would not do a panel in this plane without a tru-trak autopilot and an SL30 4. Buy early and do not wait if you have the money and have started. I lost $300 on ordering the prop late. Good luck - it is a blast -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174748#174748 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Apr 04, 2008
We will be parked in Homebuilt camping. Plan to arrive on Wednesday. When we are not shopping, we will be glad to show our plane and answer questions. Jim & Julie N369JW Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174764#174764 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net>
Subject: Florida Use Tax
Date: Apr 04, 2008
For those going to Sun & Fun it does not appear that there is any problem with the Florida use tax. FMI read: http://www.aopa.org/advocacy/articles/2008/080328fl.pdf Russ Daves N710RV- Flying RV-10 RV-7 Wings and Tail finished ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun
Date: Apr 04, 2008
Fellow -10 Builders, You are all welcome to meet at our Booth N-96 right in front of Hangar Bldg A at any time you'd like. The TCW Technologies / Safety-Trim tent will be up all week. My Dad and I would really enjoy meeting everyone. Bob Newman (40176) TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com 610-390-7195 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tailcone attach gotchas
Yep. Same thing happened to me. I caught it during inspection (and introspection) before trying to mate the halves. My QB fuse shipped 11/06. Bill "fiberglassing" Watson 40605 Chris Hukill wrote: > I did the initial tailcone attach today, and ran into a gottcha that I > thought I would share. It turns out the quickbuild fuselage was built > with the F10102A baggage door seal angle 1/16 inch too long. This is > the angle riveted below the F1046L longeron. This angle butts up to > the tailcone longeron, which is positioned under the fuselage > longeron. Because you cannot see this interference unless you really > look for it with a mirror, I was unaware that it was keeping the left > side of the tailcone from getting forward enough to line up with the > holes in the fuselage. A lot of time was spent swearing and trying to > get it in position, before the we found the problem. I was able to > drill out several of the 1/8 inch rivets, and place a .060 piece of > scrap between the longeron, and angle, then use a cutoff disk on a > dremmel to shorten the angle, and get a fit. I'll clean up the cut > after the tailcone is removed again. I suggest that you measure the > angle from a reference, like the side skin rivet holes to make sure > yours aren't too long, before you wrestle the tailcone onto the fuselage. > Chris Hukill > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Scat tube questions
Date: Apr 04, 2008
I have the plane power 70 amp alternator. The installation manual indicates that a 1" scat tube is needed for cooling---and there is a 1" connection on the back. Where should I get that cooling air? I also have the Lightspeed ignition for the upper plugs, and that too asks for a scat tube. Since my console is located aft of the firewall on the subpanel do I really need the cooling and, if so, where do I get the cooling air for that item? Those cooling items brings up another question. We are told that we have to make our baffling as leak proof (see the last RVator where it is recommeded to smooth the upper cowling for less leaking) as possible but then we go and punch these huge holes for the various scat tubes including the massive one for the oil cooler. I mean what does a pinhole leak around the prop governor matter when you are leaking huge amounts thru the various scat cooling holes? What am I missing? Jay Rowe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Florida Use Tax
Date: Apr 04, 2008
I understand the same people who have been ripping off out-of-state aircraft owners are now saying "No problem, come on in" (said the spider to the fly) I'm staying home this year. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Florida Use Tax For those going to Sun & Fun it does not appear that there is any problem with the Florida use tax. FMI read: http://www.aopa.org/advocacy/articles/2008/080328fl.pdf Russ Daves N710RV- Flying RV-10 RV-7 Wings and Tail finished ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Scat tube questions
Tap your alternator cooling air off the right inlet air ramp, you make a va lid point about sealing a "pinhole" leak. The inlet ramp actually gets it's air prior to the point that provides pressure to the interior upper high p ressure portion of=C2-cowl, almost like ram air. Most advice regarding se aling the upper portion of the cowl are to make sure cooling air goes where it's meant to go, with 180 kts air being forced into the upper region of t he cowl, smooth airflow, through the components with the least amount of tu rbulence is paramount, your goal and I'm sure I'll get singed in the proces s is smooth airflow to all the areas...seal all the gaps to make that happe n. I have a baffle on my oil cooler to deflect the air back and down to the opening behind the cooler=C2-on the bottom cowl... I hope this=C2-will aid in continuing the smooth airflow through the cooler and out the bottom aft portion of the cowl.=C2- Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> Sent: Friday, April 4, 2008 7:12:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Scat tube questions I have the plane power 70 amp alternator.=C2- The installation manual ind icates that=C2- a 1"=C2-scat tube is needed for cooling---and there is a 1" connection on the back. Where should I get that cooling air? I also have the Lightspeed ignition for the upper plugs, and that too asks for a scat tube.=C2- Since my console is located aft of the firewall on t he subpanel do I really need the cooling and, if so, where do I get the coo ling air for that item? Those cooling items brings up another question.=C2- We are told that we h ave to make our baffling as leak proof (see the last RVator where it is rec ommeded to smooth the upper cowling for less leaking) as possible but then we go and punch these huge holes for the various scat tubes including the m assive one for the oil cooler.=C2- I mean what does a pinhole leak around the prop governor matter when you are leaking huge amounts thru the variou s scat cooling holes?=C2- What am I missing?=C2- Jay Rowe Upgrade Your Email - Click here! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2008
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun
Might see you on Sat! grumpy In a message dated 4/4/2008 6:40:02 A.M. Central Daylight Time, rnewman(at)tcwtech.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob-tcw" Fellow -10 Builders, You are all welcome to meet at our Booth N-96 right in front of Hangar Bldg A at any time you'd like. The TCW Technologies / Safety-Trim tent will be up all week. My Dad and I would really enjoy meeting everyone. Bob Newman (40176) TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com 610-390-7195 (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: US airways discharge off topic
Date: Apr 04, 2008
heard on the news ? US Airways had an accidental discharge. Whenever the TSA gets invovled, its FUBAR. http://www.crimefilenews.com/2008/03/video-of-dangerous-firearm-policy-of.ht ml ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Jack Stands
Date: Apr 05, 2008
> ______________________________________________ > From: David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net] > Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 3:47 AM > To: 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jack Stands > > I see a couple of potential problems with your design. > (1) Standard aircraft jacks have mechanical locks and don't depend on > hydraulics to hold in place after the lift. > (2) The lift appears to be made and supported only on the steel bolt into > aluminum threads; on our QB wings there was a .100 gap between the skin > and the bottom of the fixture; the choice was enlarge the hole in the skin > or use a block of wood suitably padded with baffling material against the > spar. We chose a block aligned along the main spar. BTW, the jack pads > that Van supplies should be trashed. They are made of nylon and would > engage at most four threads. How Vans can supply a short nylon fitting to > support a 100K+ machine amazes me. > (3) wood will become dry and brittle over time and should be checked > regularly. > > _____________________________________________ > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:22 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Jack Stands > > Being a sort of cheap frugal type I made these stands out of $12 worth of > =BE plywood and 2 long rams from Harbor Freight on sale. > Seems to work OK. (base is 18=94 square.) > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Jack stand
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments: IMG_0030 security settings to determine how a10ttachments are handled. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: jack stand
Date: Apr 05, 2008
One other comment I did not see it mentioned but a tail weight is necessary to hold the tail down. . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: response
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Sorry about starting the jack stand thread again; my email was sorted alphabetically instead of by date. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Florida Use Tax
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Hello, I think it's totally illegal to try to charge "use" tax on out of state aircraft. If that ever happened to me I would never pay. They have no leverage anyway against an out-of-state resident. I can't believe this attempt at robbery has not been struck down as unconstitutional right away! Brian, Eug, OR -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> I understand the same people who have been ripping off out-of-state aircraft owners are now saying No problem, come on in (said the spider to the fly) Im staying home this year. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Florida Use Tax For those going to Sun & Fun it does not appear that there is any problem with the Florida use tax. FMI read: http://www.aopa.org/advocacy/articles/2008/080328fl.pdf Russ Daves N710RV- Flying RV-10 RV-7 Wings and Tail finished
Hello,
I think it's totally illegal to try to charge "use" tax on  out of state aircraft. If that ever happened to me I would never pay. They have no leverage anyway against an out-of-state resident. I can't believe this attempt at robbery has not been struck down as unconstitutional right away!
Brian,
Eug, OR

I understand the same people who have been ripping off out-of-state aircraft owners are now saying

No problem, come on in (said the spider to the fly)

Im staying home this year.

Albert Gardner

Yuma, AZ

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:30 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Florida Use Tax

 

For those going to Sun & Fun it does not appear that there is any problem with the Florida use tax.  FMI read:

 

 

Russ Daves

N710RV- Flying RV-10

RV-7 Wings and Tail finished

 
 

      
      
      

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: sunscreens and covers
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Given that the 10 will sit outside at OSH, I am looking to protect the interior from heat damage. Since the aircraft is hangared in AZ what short term protection have pilots devised? My primary concern is he black glare shield which should heat rapidly. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Jack Stands
Date: Apr 05, 2008
The comments directed toward my wooden base design jackstand (photo attached) are all valid. Mechanical locks seemed unnecessary because the only use so far has been to lift the mains just clear of the surface in order to align the wheel pants. I also changed a tire once but immediately placed blocks under the axle. The plane is supported entirely with the bolt which screws in about an inch and a half. On the other hand that=92s the same amount the tie-down ring screws in also. I don=92t think I=92d use this design if I was going to go into the jackstand business but it did seem adequate for personal use and cost about $90 for a pair using Harbor Freight rams. In some ways it=92s better than the commercial designs I looked at because the bolt screws into the tiedown ring support and goes into a hole in the top of the ram so it can=92t slip off unlike some expensive designs I=92ve see in use. =93NOTICE: DON=92T TOUCH THE PLANE-IT=92S ON JACKS!=94 Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill : RE: RV10-List: Jack Stands I see a couple of potential problems with your design. (1) Standard aircraft jacks have mechanical locks and don't depend on hydraulics to hold in place after the lift. (2) The lift appears to be made and supported only on the steel bolt into aluminum threads; on our QB wings there was a .100 gap between the skin and the bottom of the fixture; the choice was enlarge the hole in the skin or use a block of wood suitably padded with baffling material against the spar. We chose a block aligned along the main spar. BTW, the jack pads that Van supplies should be trashed. They are made of nylon and would engage at most four threads. How Vans can supply a short nylon fitting to support a 100K+ machine amazes me. (3) wood will become dry and brittle over time and should be checked regularly. _____________________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [ mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner : RV10-List: Jack Stands Being a sort of cheap frugal type I made these stands out of $12 worth of =BE plywood and 2 long rams from Harbor Freight on sale. Seems to work OK. (base is 18=94 square.) Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jack Stands
Date: Apr 05, 2008
From: dougpflyrv(at)aol.com
I RECENTLY FOUND THIS JACK & STANDS ON BARNSTORMERS.COM. PLAN TO ORDER THEM MONDAY. THEY ARE SMALL & LIGHT ENOUGH TO CARRY ON BOARD. RV JACK AND JACK STAND =A2 AVAILABLE FOR SALE =A2 Jack and a pair of Jack Stands to service the wheel, tires and brakes This a Jack system it comes with a 4 ton Bottle Jack. Don't risk damaging your wings. The aircraft is very stable sitting on the stands. They are made from stainless steel that is laser cut and TIG welded. $150 =A2 Contact Sonny Poarch - SKUNKWORKS located Weirsdale, FL USA =A2 Telephone: 352 269-4370 =A2 Posted March 25, 2008 =A2 Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser =A2 Recommend This Ad to a Friend =A2 Email Advertiser =A2 Save to Watchlist =A2 Report This Ad =A2 View Larger Pictures -----Original Message----- From: Albert Gardner <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Sent: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:07 am Subject: RE: RV10-List: Jack Stands The comments directed toward my wooden base design jackstand (photo attached) ar e all valid. Mechanical locks seemed unnecessary because the only use so far has been to lift the mains just clear of the surface in order to align the wheel pants. I also changed a tire once but immediately p laced blocks under the axle. The plane is supported entirely with the bolt which screws in about an inch and a half. On the other hand that=99s the sam e amount the tie-down ring screws in also. I don=99t think I=99d u se this design if I was going to go into the jackstand business but it did seem adeq uate for personal use and cost about $90 for a pair using Harbor Freight rams. In some ways it=99s better than the commercial designs I looked at becaus e the bolt screws into the tiedown ring support and goes into a hole in the top of the ram so it can=99t slip off unlike some expensive designs I =99ve see in use. =9CNOTICE: DON=99T TOUCH THE PLANE-IT=99S ON JACKS !=9D Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ =C2- -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill :=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- RE: RV10-List: Jack Stands I see a couple of potential problems with your design. (1) Standard aircraft jacks have mechanical locks and don't depend on hydraulics to hold in place after the lift. (2) The lift appears to be made and supported only on the steel bolt into aluminum threads; on our QB wings there was a .100 gap betwe en the skin and the bottom of the fixture; the choice was enlarge the hole in t he skin or use a block of wood suitably padded with baffling material against t he spar. We chose a block aligned along the main spar. BTW, the jack pads that Van supplies should be trashed. They are made of nylon and would engage at most four threads. How Vans can supply a short nylon fitting to support a 100K+ machine amazes me. (3) wood will become dry and brittle over time and should be checked regularly. _____________________________________________ From: =C2- owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]=C2- On Behalf Of Albert Gardner :=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- RV10-List: Jack Stands Being a sort of cheap frugal type I made these stands out of $12 worth of =C2=BE plywood and 2 long rams from Harbor Freigh t on sale. Seems to work OK. (base is 18=9D square.) Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ =C2- [Image Removed] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Jack Stands
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Aircraft Spruce- and I think Van's also-sell an RV Jack that slips in the hollow axle after the nut comes off as this one does. A small bottle jack is then used to lift the plane far enough to change a tire. It looks like this jack works the same but also includes a stand. Having had a couple of flat tires I can point out some difficulties that need to be overcome. 1. With a flat tire the wheel pant is going to be against the ground hiding the lower screws. A wing jack works well but none of these axle jacks will work until you get the pant off. I installed hex headed screws in the lower position of the pant but it's still tough to get them out and the pant off with a flat tire. On the front you just need to accumulate enough weight to hold the tail down for tire repair. A wing jack will have to lift a lot farther than an axle jack to get the wheel clear of the ground. A 2 ton bottle jack is sufficient if it has the required stroke length. 2. After the wheel is removed you need to hold the plane up. I carried some short pieces of redwood 2x4"s, stacked them up a placed under the axle after the wheel was removed. Some redwood is very light and I kept the redwood and the RV jack in the plane. Looks like this jackstand would do the trick also. 3. You probably will need some help from others to do any tire repair or replacements other than patching and filling a tube so maybe you could lean on them for the jacks and stands also saving yourself money and the trouble of carrying stuff around. One flat tire was at Albany, OR and needed a tube and tire and happened in front of the FBO, the other was at Needles, CA on a VERY HOT day and (the baggage carpet came in very handy) required a tube although a patch may have worked as a temporary fix. In both cases air was required so a hand pump and gage are necessary items in your tool kit. Remember you need tools to remove and split the wheel also. 4. So, how much are we going to carry? Jacks, tools, tubes, tires, etc. Or, keep this stuff at home, throw yourself on the mercy of fellow avnuts when you travel, and when RV's (or other less fortunate home builders) in trouble land at your home field you can save them. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dougpflyrv(at)aol.com I RECENTLY FOUND THIS JACK & STANDS ON BARNSTORMERS.COM. PLAN TO ORDER THEM MONDAY. THEY ARE SMALL & LIGHT ENOUGH TO CARRY ON BOARD. <http://barnstormers.com/classified_192277_RV+Jack+and+Jack+Stand.html?PH PSE SSID=7f18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> RV JACK AND JACK STAND . AVAILABLE FOR SALE . Jack and a pair of Jack Stands to service the wheel, tires and brakes This a Jack system it comes with a 4 ton Bottle Jack. Don't risk damaging your wings. The aircraft is very stable sitting on the stands. They are made from stainless steel that is laser cut and TIG welded. $150 . Contact Sonny Poarch - SKUNKWORKS located Weirsdale, FL USA . Telephone: 352 269-4370 . Posted March 25, 2008 . <http://barnstormers.com/listing.php?mode=usersearch&user=29277&PHPSE SSID=7f 18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser . <http://barnstormers.com/recommend.php?id=192277&title=RV+Jack+and+Ja ck+Stan d&PHPSESSID=7f18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> Recommend This Ad to a Friend . Email Advertiser . <http://barnstormers.com/ad_manager/watchlist.php?ADD=192277&PHPSESSID= 7f183 46dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> Save to Watchlist . <http://barnstormers.com/report_ad.php?id=192277&title=RV+Jack+and+Ja ck+Stan d&PHPSESSID=7f18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> Report This Ad . <http://barnstormers.com/ad_detail.php?ID=192277&go_to_images=1&PHPSE SSID=7f 18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> View Larger Pictures <http://barnstormers.com/images/1x1.gif> <http://barnstormers.com/ad_detail.php?ID=192277&go_to_images=1&PHPSE SSID=7f 18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> <http://barnstormers.com/ad_detail.php?ID=192277&go_to_images=1&PHPSE SSID=7f 18346dbd3ff14c4d9e6ad1fe47c70a> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: jack pads
Date: Apr 05, 2008
I concur that it is impossible/impractical to carry jacks in the aircraft. Away from home the FBO will usually allow use of his equipment. Once at Austin's premier FBO, I was offered the free use of their hangar and tools because they did not have any maintenance procedures for a Glastar. Anyway I carry about 30 pounds of tools and spare parts but do not carry bigger/heavier tools.I beg/borrow those and do lots of preventative maintenance at home. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2008
From: "Matthew Collier" <ivdiggs(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Piper Clipper trade for raw RV10 kit
Hello all, I'm new to the list and have a need for an RV 10 kit. I'm in the process of selling my beautiful PA-16 Piper Clipper N108PC for the sole purpose of buying an RV 10 kit. If anyone has a kit they are interested in trading for a great flying, great condition and ready to go Clipper please let me know. Pictures of the Clipper are on Barnstormers if interested. http://barnstormers.com/cat.php?mode=search&PHPSESSID=995a914b537ac815b91292cf97262744 Thanks, Matthew Collier 541-419-5634 ivdiggs(at)gmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: sunscreens and covers
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 05, 2008
Most people in the know and the USAF avoid the canvas sun covers, even the ones with the softy interior side. The assumption is that even the softy side accumulates grit which grinds against your windows. The Kennon or Kennon style shades are the best as far as I know. They stay in place and really protect from the heat. WalMart even sells the fold-over round covers that do a good job on my car. The big deal is that you want to avoid scratching your windows. Check out Kennons web site http://kennoncovers.com/pricelist.htm I do not want to necessarily promote them as they are quite expensive, but so are your windows. I believe that the PLASTIC COATED Kennon type product is available bulk but be sure that it has the interior plastic coating otherwise the aluminum will scratch the windows. I am not sure that Kennon even makes it's own raw material. They may only buy the product and laser cut it and put a border on it. (The border is nice) -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175040#175040 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: sunscreens and covers
Date: Apr 06, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
I don't know about the air force, but it seems to me that the covers are the best compromise.? Just leaving the glass exposed allows blowing dirt and grit to scratch the surface.? Further, the sunlight now has no?impediment to its UV rays attacking the glass (plus its actually attacking it going in, and then being reflected back out).? The cover will also provide extra protection against leaks into the cabin from imperfect door seals.? Make sure its a custom fit cover that will be snug on the plane.? The interior plastic products are bulky to store, never fit very well, and can scratch the interior side of the glass. If the windows are kept clean and protected with some type of commercial cleaning/protecting product and the cover is also kept clean, I suspect that the cover compromise will give you the best overall protection. I have no financial interest in any cover products.? My $.02. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:57 pm Subject: RV10-List: Re: sunscreens and covers Most people in the know and the USAF avoid the canvas sun covers, even the ones with the softy interior side. The assumption is that even the softy side accumulates grit which grinds against your windows. The Kennon or Kennon style shades are the best as far as I know. They stay in place and really protect from the heat. WalMart even sells the fold-over round covers that do a good job on my car. The big deal is that you want to avoid scratching your windows. Check out Kennons web site http://kennoncovers.com/pricelist.htm I do not want to necessarily promote them as they are quite expensive, but so are your windows. I believe that the PLASTIC COATED Kennon type product is available bulk but be sure that it has the interior plastic coating otherwise the aluminum will scratch the windows. I am not sure that Kennon even makes it's own raw material. They may only buy the product and laser cut it and put a border on it. (The border is nice) -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175040#175040 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: sunscreens and covers
Sunscreens are better for dusty environments. Blowing dust has little impact on plexiglass until you get large particle sizes like blowing sand. You are right about covers being more able to reduce rain leaking into cabin. You won't find very many cockpit covers left on planes during the summer in Arizona. But they are used a lot in the wetter winter. Sunscreens are the protection of choice in the summer. Also, if you want to prevent prying eyes, no one can lift the edge of a sunscreen behind locked doors. On Sun, Apr 6, 2008 at 6:35 AM, wrote: > I don't know about the air force, but it seems to me that the covers are > the best compromise. Just leaving the glass exposed allows blowing dirt and > grit to scratch the surface. Further, the sunlight now has no impediment to > its UV rays attacking the glass (plus its actually attacking it going in, > and then being reflected back out). The cover will also provide extra > protection against leaks into the cabin from imperfect door seals. Make > sure its a custom fit cover that will be snug on the plane. The interior > plastic products are bulky to store, never fit very well, and can scratch > the interior side of the glass. > > If the windows are kept clean and protected with some type of commercial > cleaning/protecting product and the cover is also kept clean, I suspect that > the cover compromise will give you the best overall protection. > > I have no financial interest in any cover products. My $.02. > > Jeff > > > -----Original Message----- > From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:57 pm > Subject: RV10-List: Re: sunscreens and covers > > > Most people in the know and the USAF avoid the canvas sun covers, even the ones > with the softy interior side. The assumption is that even the softy side > accumulates grit which grinds against your windows. > > The Kennon or Kennon style shades are the best as far as I know. They stay in > place and really protect from the heat. WalMart even sells the fold-over round > covers that do a good job on my car. The big deal is that you want to avoid > scratching your windows. > > Check out Kennons web site http://kennoncovers.com/pricelist.htm > I do not want to necessarily promote them as they are quite expensive, but so > are your windows. I believe that the PLASTIC COATED Kennon type product is > available bulk but be sure that it has the interior plastic coating otherwise > the aluminum will scratch the windows. I am not sure that Kennon even makes it's > own raw material. They may only buy the product and laser cut it and put a > border on it. (The border is nice) > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175040#175040 > > > ------------------------------ > Get the MapQuest Toolbar<http://www.mapquest.com/toolbar?NCID=mpqmap00030000000003>, > Maps, Traffic, Directions & More! > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Wing Stand
Date: Apr 06, 2008
Thanks again! I just finished the wing stand this afternoon. http://mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=260 bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 9:49 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Stand Sorry my site is down. Send you a pdf and photo of list. Let me know if you need more information. Larry Bob Leffler wrote: > > I had bookmarked Larry Rosen's site because he had detailed plans for > building a wing stand. Unfortunately, his site is offline. I've found > many pictures of wing stands on other sites, but no detailed plans. I > was hoping to find dimensions and a bill of materials. Does anyone > have a copy of Larry's plans or can point me to where I can find them > (or something similar) online? > > Thanks, > > Bob > > #40684 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Wing Stand
Date: Apr 06, 2008
Darn! Apologies...... I meant to email this to Larry as oppose to sending it to the list. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Check out this link http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Apr 06, 2008
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Yikes! That is some serious damage and it really starts to show the potential of having the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Van will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is coming out now. Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who setup the doors on that one, you guys or the owner? Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site Check out this link http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Apr 06, 2008
Direct link to the page posted by the owner: http://www.rv10-416ec.com/ -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175157#175157 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 06, 2008
I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Will Peacock; he is the owner of the aircraft; his partner was flying. The aircraft was built by Saint Aviation. The aircraft was repaired and is about to start flying again. Someone has come up with another latching mechanism and he has indicated he will send a picture of same. I will post when I get it. The apparent problem again was the rear pin but no one is definite or has a certain tested solution as yet. The windscreen fiberglass crack and the alternator cowl strike are from the 4g (as measured by the Dynon) landing. Repairs included entirely replacing the tailcone. It is my understanding that the doors are the original as built by Saint Aviation -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site --> Yikes! That is some serious damage and it really starts to show the potential of having the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Van will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is coming out now. Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who setup the doors on that one, you guys or the owner? Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site Check out this link http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2008
From: Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: AFS Systems
Awesome! Stein told me to wait on the GDL-69A for your unit. I'll be back in commo with him to add your box to my panel as soon as he can get one. Is the autopilot steering just a software upgrade? Rob Wright #392 Steinair AFS 3500/Garmin/TT AP-100 panel ----- Original Message ---- From: "RobHickman(at)aol.com" <RobHickman(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, April 3, 2008 12:30:58 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: AFS Systems Also.... Autopilot I just landed from testing our new autopilot GPS steering, it works really good. We have some minor adjustments to do and then it should be ready for our beta testers. You might even be able to fly home from Sun-n-Fun with it :) It currently follows the bugs or NAV CDI (GPS, VOR, or ILS) To fully use the interface you will need an Autopilot that supports GPS steering, lateral and vertical. I have a Digitrak IIVSGV in my RV-4 and RV-10. You will not be disappointed!!, it will be worth the wait. Weather We have XM weather!! It looks really good on the map screen. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 07, 2008
Subject: Re: Florida Use Tax
Because of the need for SnF to contact the state of "Da" and get a waive on plane inspection for the Use tax law...I've decided a couple of weeks ago to cancel my trip to SnF and not spend another dime in the State of "Da"...I'd encourage others to do so and tell SnF to inform the State of "Da" their attendence and other associated revenue is down because of their trying to rip off airplane owners...I'd also encourage others not to fly to Maine for any reason or go on vacation there and boycott anything coming from there until they come to their senses, also. Patrick (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
Subject: Re: Florida Use Tax
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote: > I'd also encourage others not to fly to Maine for any reason or go on > vacation there and boycott anything coming from there until they come > to their senses, also. > And here are some e-mail addresses you can use to tell our wonderful state gov't how you feel about it: Governor(at)maine.gov david.e.bauer(at)maine.gov Katherine.L.Riedel(at)maine.gov fyi -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 07, 2008
Subject: Re: Piper Clipper trade for raw RV10 kit
matthew...how much money are you throwing into the kit owner plus the clipper? P (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 07, 2008
When I laminated my door halves, I placed a hardwood blocks for a hardpoint in the square space above where the front nylon pin block is located. The idea was to have a place where I can put a locking latch to lock my doors. I intend to use a latch just like the one used on the baggage door. The latch will anchore the front of the door after the standard latch pins close the door. I am thinking that even with the standard Vans latch pins e ngaged and then this latch closed, that in the event that there is some for m of missalighment and the standard vans pins dissengage , this latch will keep the airstream from lifting the front edge of the door and pulling the door off. I am still working on the Van's pins in the doors and will post once all is completed. I believe one of the problems is that if there is any wiggle room fore and aft on the door, it could pull the pins out. It seems the further the pins go into the cabin side openings the better. John G. 409 (WHere does one find a 5/16 tap that will go 2 inches into thos e aluminum tubes(Pins) without bottoming out on the tap shaft.)> From: dlm4 6007(at)cox.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door sep aration for those who don't frequent VAF site> Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:43: net>> > I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Will Peacock; he is the owner of> the aircraft; his partner was flying. The aircraft was built by S aint> Aviation. The aircraft was repaired and is about to start flying agai n.> Someone has come up with another latching mechanism and he has indicate d he> will send a picture of same. I will post when I get it. The apparent problem> again was the rear pin but no one is definite or has a certain tes ted> solution as yet. The windscreen fiberglass crack and the alternator co wl> strike are from the 4g (as measured by the Dynon) landing. Repairs incl uded> entirely replacing the tailcone. It is my understanding that the door s are> the original as built by Saint Aviation> > -----Original Message---- -> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-serv er(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder> (Michael Sausen)> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:08 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List : Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF> site> > --> RV10-List m essage posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > --> > > Yikes! That is some serious damage and it really starts to show the> p otential of having the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very> glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Va n> will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy> warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is> coming out now. Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who> setup the doors on that one, you guys or the owner?> > Michael> > -----Ori ginal Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:own er-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked> Sent: Sunday, Ap ril 06, 2008 6:49 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Sked > > > Check out this link> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678> > > > > > > -======================== ==> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 07, 2008
I ground the shaft of the tap... Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 9:14 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site When I laminated my door halves, I placed a hardwood blocks for a hardpoint in the square space above where the front nylon pin block is located. The idea was to have a place where I can put a locking latch to lock my doors. I intend to use a latch just like the one used on the baggage door. The latch will anchore the front of the door after the standard latch pins close the door. I am thinking that even with the standard Vans latch pins engaged and then this latch closed, that in the event that there is some form of missalighment and the standard vans pins dissengage , this latch will keep the airstream from lifting the front edge of the door and pulling the door off. I am still working on the Van's pins in the doors and will post once all is completed. I believe one of the problems is that if there is any wiggle room fore and aft on the door, it could pull the pins out. It seems the further the pins go into the cabin side openings the better. John G. 409 (WHere does one find a 5/16 tap that will go 2 inches into those aluminum tubes(Pins) without bottoming out on the tap shaft.) > From: dlm46007(at)cox.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site > Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:43:09 -0700 > > > I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Will Peacock; he is the owner of > the aircraft; his partner was flying. The aircraft was built by Saint > Aviation. The aircraft was repaired and is about to start flying again. > Someone has come up with another latching mechanism and he has indicated he > will send a picture of same. I will post when I get it. The apparent problem > again was the rear pin but no one is definite or has a certain tested > solution as yet. The windscreen fiberglass crack and the alternator cowl > strike are from the 4g (as measured by the Dynon) landing. Repairs included > entirely replacing the tailcone. It is my understanding that the doors are > the original as built by Saint Aviation > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder > (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:08 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF > site > > --> > > Yikes! That is some serious damage and it really starts to show the > potential of having the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very > glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Van > will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy > warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is > coming out now. Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who > setup the doors on that one, you guys or the owner? > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked > Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:49 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site > > > > Check out this link > > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678 > > > > > > ========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windscreen Crazing
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Yesterday I decided to remove the protective coverings from all my windows. The inside had the factory plastic coating still in place and the outside had been covered with spraylat after installation of the windscreen. I think the spraylat was applied in August 2006. Plane was moved to the hanger via a wrecker in December 2006. We used the lancair method and materials to glue in all of the windows. Hysol mixed with flox. Only the windscreen has any signs of crazing. We glued a lancair ES, Mark Ritters RV10 and mine within a few months of each other. The ES is flying with no problems and Mark's plane did not have any cracks using this method. Acetone was used on the glue seam and frame but none touched any other part of the glass. Any ideas? Bobby J Hughes 40116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The King has no Clothes
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Okay, no one is publically discussing the comprehensive and excellent pictures on the door departure from N416EC. My count is over 100 followers of this documented build technique. Would some Articulate and Tactful builder please expand and clarify the correct installation of door pins as directed in writing by VANS. Taper IN (towards the POB) or Taper OUT (towards the vast space outside). Then secondly, the subject of adequate pin engagement in the Jam (what is adequate?). Thirdly how to keep the pin engaged during flight (so buffeting cannot cause the rack to move without human assistance). And Fourth, the reasonable consideration of a Secondary Latching mechanism to prevent catastrophic door loss. I know, I know my wife tells me I am already in the Dog House for even mentioning the existence of an AFS4500 before it's time. Have a great and informative week. I suspect those of us that do not get to go to SNF will just keep reading the plans for answers. Tomorrow I will hover over the AFS website. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
John I have been reading these threads with interest. I keep coming back to the door arrangement on my PA28 Cherokee. It is very similar in shape & design to the -10 except it has two hinges on the side of the door. Over the past 14 years, I have had the door come ajar perhaps a 5 or 6 times (in large part due to the door handle design). In every case it was a non-event as the door would open only open an inch or two. In fact, I mastered the technique of re-closing the door while in flight - again not a big deal. In my opinion, the key to eliminating the risk associated with the -10 is to find a way to keep the leading edge of the door secure even if the door pins are not inserted correctly. On the top of the Cherokee door, there is a latch that when closed, pulls the door tight to the door frame with a "hook" type latch mechanism. I suspect this might be a bit more robust than a baggage door latch arrangement. Just my $0.02 Les Kearney #40643 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: April-07-08 9:14 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site When I laminated my door halves, I placed a hardwood blocks for a hardpoint in the square space above where the front nylon pin block is located. The idea was to have a place where I can put a locking latch to lock my doors. I intend to use a latch just like the one used on the baggage door. The latch will anchore the front of the door after the standard latch pins close the door. I am thinking that even with the standard Vans latch pins engaged and then this latch closed, that in the event that there is some form of missalighment and the standard vans pins dissengage , this latch will keep the airstream from lifting the front edge of the door and pulling the door off. I am still working on the Van's pins in the doors and will post once all is completed. I believe one of the problems is that if there is any wiggle room fore and aft on the door, it could pull the pins out. It seems the further the pins go into the cabin side openings the better. John G. 409 (WHere does one find a 5/16 tap that will go 2 inches into those aluminum tubes(Pins) without bottoming out on the tap shaft.) > From: dlm46007(at)cox.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site > Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:43:09 -0700 > > > I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Will Peacock; he is the owner of > the aircraft; his partner was flying. The aircraft was built by Saint > Aviation. The aircraft was repaired and is about to start flying again. > Someone has come up with another latching mechanism and he has indicated he > will send a picture of same. I will post when I get it. The apparent problem > again was the rear pin but no one is definite or has a certain tested > solution as yet. The windscreen fiberglass crack and the alternator cowl > strike are from the 4g (as measured by the Dynon) landing. Repairs included > entirely replacing the tailcone. It is my understanding that the doors are > the original as built by Saint Aviation > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder > (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:08 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF > site > > --> > > Yikes! That is some serious damage and it really starts to show the > potential of having the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very > glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Van > will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy > warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is > coming out now. Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who > setup the doors on that one, you guys or the owner? > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked > Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:49 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site > > > > Check out this link > > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678 > > > > > > ========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Windscreen Crazing
All I can wonder is....yeah, you say they were sprayed within a few months of each other, but, is the spraylat something you had to mix up in batches? It seems that maybe there was some chemical that attacked the windshield that must have come from the spraylat, or perhaps some cleaner that was used just prior to spraying it on. That crazing almost HAD to be chemical...not sun or anything else...so you need to know exactly what was put on that plexi since it was first opened.....every cleaning agent, solvent, or anything. I'd wonder about using approved products, like Plexus, if they're aerosol and you didn't get it nice and dry and ventilated before the spraylat was applied. For those who haven't heard....use Kerosene if you need to remove stuff off the plexi....not other stuff. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Bobby J. Hughes wrote: > Yesterday I decided to remove the protective coverings from all my > windows. The inside had the factory plastic coating still in place and > the outside had been covered with spraylat after installation of the > windscreen. I think the spraylat was applied in August 2006. Plane was > moved to the hanger via a wrecker in December 2006. > > We used the lancair method and materials to glue in all of the > windows. Hysol mixed with flox. Only the windscreen has any signs of > crazing. We glued a lancair ES, Mark Ritters RV10 and mine within a few > months of each other. The ES is flying with no problems and Mark's plane > did not have any cracks using this method. Acetone was used on the glue > seam and frame but none touched any other part of the glass. > > Any ideas? > > *Bobby J Hughes* > 40116 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 07, 2008
Note that the thickness of the actual metal which rotates to engage the fra me can be changed on those locksets. Again, aslong as the airstream doesn't get a bite on that leading edge, I don't foresee a another force pulling t he door off. JG Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 10:13:14 -0600From: kearney(at)shaw.caSubject: RE: RV10- List: Door separation for those who don't frequent VAF siteTo: rv10-list@ma tronics.com John I have been reading these threads with interest. I keep coming back to the door arrangement on my PA28 Cherokee. It is very similar in shape & design to the -10 except it has two hinges on the side of the door. Over the past 14 years, I have had the door come ajar perhaps a 5 or 6 times (in large p art due to the door handle design). In every case it was a non-event as the door would open only open an inch or two. In fact, I mastered the techniqu e of re-closing the door while in flight ' again not a big deal. In my opinion, the key to eliminating the risk associated with the -10 is t o find a way to keep the leading edge of the door secure even if the door p ins are not inserted correctly. On the top of the Cherokee door, there is a latch that when closed, pulls the door tight to the door frame with a =93h ook=94 type latch mechanism. I suspect this might be a bit more robust than a baggage door latch arrangement. Just my $0.02 Les Kearney #40643 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of John GonzalezSent: April-07-08 9:14 AMTo: rv10-l ist(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for those who don' t frequent VAF site When I laminated my door halves, I placed a hardwood blocks for a hardpoint in the square space above where the front nylon pin block is located. The idea was to have a place where I can put a locking latch to lock my doors. I intend to use a latch just like the one used on the baggage door. The la tch will anchore the front of the door after the standard latch pins close the door. I am thinking that even with the standard Vans latch pins engaged and then this latch closed, that in the event that there is some form of m issalighment and the standard vans pins dissengage , this latch will keep t he airstream from lifting the front edge of the door and pulling the door o ff. I am still working on the Van's pins in the doors and will post once al l is completed. I believe one of the problems is that if there is any wiggl e room fore and aft on the door, it could pull the pins out. It seems the f urther the pins go into the cabin side openings the better. John G. 409 (WH ere does one find a 5/16 tap that will go 2 inches into those aluminum tube s(Pins) without bottoming out on the tap shaft.)> From: dlm46007(at)cox.net> T o: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separation for tho se who don't frequent VAF site> Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:43:09 -0700> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" > > I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Will Peacock; he is the owner of> the a ircraft; his partner was flying. The aircraft was built by Saint> Aviation. The aircraft was repaired and is about to start flying again.> Someone has come up with another latching mechanism and he has indicated he> will send a picture of same. I will post when I get it. The apparent problem> again was the rear pin but no one is definite or has a certain tested> solution a s yet. The windscreen fiberglass crack and the alternator cowl> strike are from the 4g (as measured by the Dynon) landing. Repairs included> entirely replacing the tailcone. It is my understanding that the doors are> the orig inal as built by Saint Aviation> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner- rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.co m] On Behalf Of RV Builder> (Michael Sausen)> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6:08 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door separati on for those who don't frequent VAF> site> > --> RV10-List message posted b y: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > --> > > Yikes! Tha t is some serious damage and it really starts to show the> potential of hav ing the offending door hit the HS on the way out. I'm very> glad I'm going with Rivetheads blocks rather than the UHMW and hopefully Van> will get the picture that this is happening way too often for a cheesy> warning light. Interesting this happened back in Sept but (little) word is> coming out now . Something smells of lawyer involvement coming. Jesse, who> setup the door s on that one, you guys or the owner?> > Michael> > -----Original Message-- ---> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 6: 49 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for Sked > > > Check out this link> > http://www.vans airforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28678> > > > > > ===== ======> > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windscreen Crazing
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
No cleaning was done and the spraylat was actually applied with a new paintbrush a couple of weeks after the windscreen was installed. All three planes had the windscreens installed within a few months of each other. I used Mark Ritter's leftover spraylat so it should not have caused the problem. Bobby (One step forward and two steps back) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 11:02 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Crazing All I can wonder is....yeah, you say they were sprayed within a few months of each other, but, is the spraylat something you had to mix up in batches? It seems that maybe there was some chemical that attacked the windshield that must have come from the spraylat, or perhaps some cleaner that was used just prior to spraying it on. That crazing almost HAD to be chemical...not sun or anything else...so you need to know exactly what was put on that plexi since it was first opened.....every cleaning agent, solvent, or anything. I'd wonder about using approved products, like Plexus, if they're aerosol and you didn't get it nice and dry and ventilated before the spraylat was applied. For those who haven't heard....use Kerosene if you need to remove stuff off the plexi....not other stuff. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Bobby J. Hughes wrote: > Yesterday I decided to remove the protective coverings from all my > windows. The inside had the factory plastic coating still in place and > the outside had been covered with spraylat after installation of the > windscreen. I think the spraylat was applied in August 2006. Plane was > moved to the hanger via a wrecker in December 2006. > > We used the lancair method and materials to glue in all of the > windows. Hysol mixed with flox. Only the windscreen has any signs of > crazing. We glued a lancair ES, Mark Ritters RV10 and mine within a > few months of each other. The ES is flying with no problems and Mark's > plane did not have any cracks using this method. Acetone was used on > the glue seam and frame but none touched any other part of the glass. > > Any ideas? > > *Bobby J Hughes* > 40116 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s ?
By my admittedly inaccurate count there are at least 5 incidents of RV-10 doors opening in/during flight with resulting damage. One could logically assume that there have been: 1. More incidents that actually occurred that were not reported or.. 2. More incidents that occurred that did not result in damage (I.e caught and aborted take-off) In any rate, the incident rate per flying RV-10 ( approaching 5% ??) is high enough to have caused me to seriously consider whether a secondary positive door locking mechanism should be added. (I've already got the warning lights). I spent several hours over the weekend thinking about a solution. one of which John G. mentioned. One of the people that had this happen to them developed a custom solution posted on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26526. I know that some will/have taken the position that proper build skills, the use of alternate products (Rivethead etc. ) good / intended use of practices and checklists when flying will minimize the possibility or risk, all true, NO ONE who sets out on a flight plans to have a door open, but one need only look at the photos of the damage to this recent incident to realize just how serious the consequences of an incident like this could be. That coupled with the increasing frequency of reported incidents is making me very uneasy. I have also come to appreciate the creativity and expertise that is contained within this community. (witness the recent threads on Rudder trim alternatives). So I'm VERY interested in what other builder/fliers are thinking/doing/planning on this subject. What you got???? Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Windscreen Crazing
Date: Apr 07, 2008
I thought it was denatured alcohol. Kerosene leaves a oil layer I thought.> Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:01:32 -0500> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com> To: rv10-list@ matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Crazing> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > All I can wonder is....yea h, you say they were sprayed within a> few months of each other, but, is th e spraylat something you had> to mix up in batches? It seems that maybe the re was some chemical> that attacked the windshield that must have come from the> spraylat, or perhaps some cleaner that was used just prior to> sprayi ng it on. That crazing almost HAD to be chemical...not> sun or anything els e...so you need to know exactly what was> put on that plexi since it was fi rst opened.....every cleaning> agent, solvent, or anything. I'd wonder abou t using approved> products, like Plexus, if they're aerosol and you didn't get it> nice and dry and ventilated before the spraylat was applied.> > For those who haven't heard....use Kerosene if you need to remove> stuff off t he plexi....not other stuff.> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying> > > > Bo bby J. Hughes wrote:> > Yesterday I decided to remove the protective coveri ngs from all my > > windows. The inside had the factory plastic coating sti ll in place and > > the outside had been covered with spraylat after instal lation of the > > windscreen. I think the spraylat was applied in August 20 06. Plane was > > moved to the hanger via a wrecker in December 2006.> > > > We used the lancair method and materials to glue in all of the > > window s. Hysol mixed with flox. Only the windscreen has any signs of > > crazing. We glued a lancair ES, Mark Ritters RV10 and mine within a few > > months of each other. The ES is flying with no problems and Mark's plane > > did n ot have any cracks using this method. Acetone was used on the glue > > seam and frame but none touched any other part of the glass.> > > > Any ideas?> ========================> _ ===========> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s ?
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 07, 2008
I was just about to post the same question as Deems. I have the Coss Aviation flush door handles. I also have installed the Rivethead door pins and guides. Since the handle mechanism does not have a "locking" provision, I am concerned about the inside handle getting bumped or accidentally moved to the open position. Any ideas or suggestion would surely be appreciated. Thanks -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175309#175309 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 07, 2008
While we are in this topic, one additional reason for considering the weari ng of parachutes??? Reason why Oregon Aero is constructing a different type of seats to handle my Softie parachutes. Just food for thought. Still have to get out of the plane without the HS ge tting you...maybe get out on the side the door came off, atleast look back first, maybe the whole thing will be missing. JG> Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 19:48:38 -0400> From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> To : rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those wh cksked@embarqmail.com>> > > Check out this link> > http://www.vansairforce. =============> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I'm not sure if I'm going to be a RV-10 parachute wearer-or-not, but I've wondered about the same thing. Part of what scares me about the Safety-Latch (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26526) is not being able to get out. You're literally locked in. Phil ________________________________ From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site While we are in this topic, one additional reason for considering the wearing of parachutes??? Reason why Oregon Aero is constructing a different type of seats to handle my Softie parachutes. Just food for thought. Still have to get out of the plane without the HS getting you...maybe get out on the side the door came off, atleast look back first, maybe the whole thing will be missing. JG > Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 19:48:38 -0400 > From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site > > > > Check out this link > > http://ww============= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s
?
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Greg, I have the Hendricks door handles & Rivethead Door Pins/Guides that seem to be a very similar set up to yours and Deems. We turned around the door handle to reduce the chance of the handle getting hooked on clothing or ??? but that did not make me comfortable enough so we added a secondary mechanical barrier to the door handle. Photos & description are detailed at the bottom of this page. http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/doors.htm This is not a complete solution to all possible door opening scenarios but primarily a fix for the inadvertent door handle release. Having now been in 3 airplanes where the door opened in flight (on takeoff) I have always felt that forward facing door hinges like on the Cirrus would have been a better design choice for the -10. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s ?
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 07, 2008
That's what I like about this forum. You get answer right away. Robin I like what you have done and may borrow some of your ideas on the handle and the door hinge covers - pretty nifty. Andy the link to the pictures really drives the point home. The doors need to be secured shut. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175347#175347 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s ?
Date: Apr 08, 2008
Deems I know of one out here as well however his did not come off . regards Chris 388 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 3:39 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door separation/opening is an issue, what's the fix/s ? > > By my admittedly inaccurate count there are at least 5 incidents of > RV-10 doors opening in/during flight with resulting damage. One could > logically assume that there have been: > 1. More incidents that actually occurred that were not reported or.. > 2. More incidents that occurred that did not result in damage (I.e > caught and aborted take-off) > In any rate, the incident rate per flying RV-10 ( approaching 5% ??) is > high enough to have caused me to seriously consider whether a secondary > positive door locking mechanism should be added. (I've already got the > warning lights). I spent several hours over the weekend thinking about > a solution. one of which John G. mentioned. One of the people that had > this happen to them developed a custom solution posted on VAF. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26526. > I know that some will/have taken the position that proper build skills, > the use of alternate products (Rivethead etc. ) good / intended use of > practices and checklists when flying will minimize the possibility or > risk, all true, NO ONE who sets out on a flight plans to have a door > open, but one need only look at the photos of the damage to this recent > incident to realize just how serious the consequences of an incident > like this could be. That coupled with the increasing frequency of > reported incidents is making me very uneasy. > I have also come to appreciate the creativity and expertise that is > contained within this community. (witness the recent threads on Rudder > trim alternatives). So I'm VERY interested in what other builder/fliers > are thinking/doing/planning on this subject. > > What you got???? > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site
Date: Apr 08, 2008
Phil not sure what you mean about locked in? There is a small pin -lever on the ouside that can be moved to disingage in case your in an accident etc. regards Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Perry, Phil To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 5:24 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site I'm not sure if I'm going to be a RV-10 parachute wearer-or-not, but I've wondered about the same thing. Part of what scares me about the Safety-Latch (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26526) is not being able to get out. You're literally locked in. Phil ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 1:51 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site While we are in this topic, one additional reason for considering the wearing of parachutes??? Reason why Oregon Aero is constructing a different type of seats to handle my Softie parachutes. Just food for thought. Still have to get out of the plane without the HS getting you...maybe get out on the side the door came off, atleast look back first, maybe the whole thing will be missing. JG > Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 19:48:38 -0400 > From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Door seperation for those who don't frequent VAF site > > > > Check out this link > > http://ww============= > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2008
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: The King has no Clothes


March 26, 2008 - April 07, 2008

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-df