RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dj
May 15, 2008 - June 05, 2008
different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
| From: | raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net> |
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
before indexing mark the spline and the handle. and when changing the handle
hold the spring.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it (the
adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the better
way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it) is stated
on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized service
shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the splined
shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory
acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which
has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it (the
adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the better
way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it) is stated
on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized service
shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the splined
shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory
acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which
has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
| From: | lessdragprod(at)aol.com |
The MT Propeller factory in Germany recommends sending the governor to the MT Propeller
rep in Florida.? (This is a what is best for everyone answer.? Everyone
is assured of getting a governor set up for their engine.)
The MT Propeller rep in Florida provided information for those people that want
to try to do this themselves.? As they are getting the aircraft ready for Phase
1 testing.? (Like there's nothing better to do?? :-)? )
Now we've both said it twice.? :-)
Except, why is Van's Aircraft?STILL only selling the MT governor for the NARROW
DECK IO-540 engine?? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK IO-540 engines.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 15 May 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.?
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the?governor)?to MT USA as they do it (the adjustment)?on
the test bench.? UPS Ground is not expensive and the better way.? In
the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it)?is stated on page 12
that the modification must be done at an authorized service shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller?factory is concerned
about the customer?loosing track of the position of the splined shaft?when
the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
?
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory acceptable
adjustment?
?
Thanks
?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming IO-540 engine,
you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which has a
different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not
better (at a higher cost)..
granted none of this is good for MT but I would like to see the
composite Hartzell and give Jim the business directly for MT, which one
needs to do anyway.
Oregonians, walk over and put some pressure on Van's to update their
prop selections.. please!!
Pascal
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT Propeller factory in Germany recommends sending the governor to
the MT Propeller rep in Florida. (This is a what is best for everyone
answer. Everyone is assured of getting a governor set up for their
engine.)
The MT Propeller rep in Florida provided information for those people
that want to try to do this themselves. As they are getting the
aircraft ready for Phase 1 testing. (Like there's nothing better to do?
:-) )
Now we've both said it twice. :-)
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 15 May 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it
(the adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the
better way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it)
is stated on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized
service shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the
splined shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a
factory acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine,
which has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I
just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Our EAA chapter took a tour of Hartzell last week. Although they wouldn't
say anything specific, they did hint that we would have more Hartzell
choices from Van's in the next month.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK IO-540
engines.
I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not better
(at a higher cost)..
granted none of this is good for MT but I would like to see the composite
Hartzell and give Jim the business directly for MT, which one needs to do
anyway.
Oregonians, walk over and put some pressure on Van's to update their prop
selections.. please!!
Pascal
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT Propeller factory in Germany recommends sending the governor to the
MT Propeller rep in Florida. (This is a what is best for everyone answer.
Everyone is assured of getting a governor set up for their engine.)
The MT Propeller rep in Florida provided information for those people that
want to try to do this themselves. As they are getting the aircraft ready
for Phase 1 testing. (Like there's nothing better to do? :-) )
Now we've both said it twice. :-)
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK IO-540
engines.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 15 May 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it (the
adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the better
way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it) is stated
on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized service
shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the splined
shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory
acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which
has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Thanks for the status Bob, that is great news! Maybe my constant e-mails
asking for the consideration went somewhere afterall.
Pascal
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Our EAA chapter took a tour of Hartzell last week. Although they
wouldn't say anything specific, they did hint that we would have more
Hartzell choices from Van's in the next month.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not
better (at a higher cost)..
granted none of this is good for MT but I would like to see the
composite Hartzell and give Jim the business directly for MT, which one
needs to do anyway.
Oregonians, walk over and put some pressure on Van's to update their
prop selections.. please!!
Pascal
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT Propeller factory in Germany recommends sending the governor to
the MT Propeller rep in Florida. (This is a what is best for everyone
answer. Everyone is assured of getting a governor set up for their
engine.)
The MT Propeller rep in Florida provided information for those people
that want to try to do this themselves. As they are getting the
aircraft ready for Phase 1 testing. (Like there's nothing better to do?
:-) )
Now we've both said it twice. :-)
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 15 May 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it
(the adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the
better way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it)
is stated on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized
service shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the
splined shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a
factory acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine,
which has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I
just mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline. Read this
topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/c
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/c
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com: America's #1 Mapping Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
"I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not better
(at a higher cost).."
You should have gone to the RV-10 dinner last weekend, I just happen to
know who is testing the new 2 blade composite Hartzell prop on a RV-4.
Extremely smooth, much lighter, and it looks and sounds cool.
Rob Hickman
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up . By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
"I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade
Hartzell prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well
if not better (at a higher cost).."
You should have gone to the RV-10 dinner last weekend, I just happen
to know who is testing the new 2 blade composite Hartzell prop on a
RV-4.
Extremely smooth, much lighter, and it looks and sounds cool.
Rob Hickman
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites
at AOL Food.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up . By the way,
thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the composite
prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's expanded
capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week or
so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface, and
weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of them are only
working on software.
Rob Hickman
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
At the Pacific NW RV-10 Builder Dinner, Rob Hickman was displaying his
test bed Hartzell prototype 2 blade Scimitar II Composite prop on is
RV-4. I am sure he is under a gag order but I stole a Hi-Res picture
(which has been Matronic neutered here). The identification on each
blade read "Des. No. N7605-2X.
Skunkworks NW
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Our EAA chapter took a tour of Hartzell last week. Although they
wouldn't say anything specific, they did hint that we would have more
Hartzell choices from Van's in the next month.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not
better (at a higher cost)..
granted none of this is good for MT but I would like to see the
composite Hartzell and give Jim the business directly for MT, which one
needs to do anyway.
Oregonians, walk over and put some pressure on Van's to update their
prop selections.. please!!
Pascal
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT Propeller factory in Germany recommends sending the governor to
the MT Propeller rep in Florida. (This is a what is best for everyone
answer. Everyone is assured of getting a governor set up for their
engine.)
The MT Propeller rep in Florida provided information for those people
that want to try to do this themselves. As they are getting the
aircraft ready for Phase 1 testing. (Like there's nothing better to do?
:-) )
Now we've both said it twice. :-)
Except, why is Van's Aircraft STILL only selling the MT governor for the
NARROW DECK IO-540 engine? Van's Aircraft only sells new WIDE DECK
IO-540 engines.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 15 May 2008 9:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it
(the adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the
better way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it)
is stated on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized
service shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the
splined shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a
factory acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck
Lycoming IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540
engine, which has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the
box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Rick Sked, Deems Davis and Les Kearney all exceeded the 1,000 miles
from home rule to make the dinner. The Hickman's were gracious hosting
the event. All things are possible for the Fall get to gather.
Still LOL.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up . By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
"I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade
Hartzell prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well
if not better (at a higher cost).."
You should have gone to the RV-10 dinner last weekend, I just happen
to know who is testing the new 2 blade composite Hartzell prop on a
RV-4.
Extremely smooth, much lighter, and it looks and sounds cool.
Rob Hickman
________________________________
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites
at AOL Food
<http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001> .
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
John is a little light on my mileage - it was 1,100+ miles. I also went to
the EAA open house at Van's - an event that was very interesting. After
buying a couple of very expensive slices of pizza, Van's gave me a pair of
-10 QB wings and a finish kit.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: May-16-08 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Rick Sked, Deems Davis and Les Kearney all exceeded the 1,000 miles from
home rule to make the dinner. The Hickman's were gracious hosting the
event. All things are possible for the Fall get to gather.
Still LOL.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up Winking smile
emoticon. By the way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the composite
prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's expanded
capabilities?
Thanks!
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
"I want to know Why they are still also ONLY selling the 2 blade Hartzell
prop when Hartzell has composite blades that work just as well if not better
(at a higher cost).."
You should have gone to the RV-10 dinner last weekend, I just happen to
know who is testing the new 2 blade composite Hartzell prop on a RV-4.
Extremely smooth, much lighter, and it looks and sounds cool.
Rob Hickman
_____
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists
<http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001> on family
favorites at AOL Food.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fixitauto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1000 Mile Rule? |
Check this out.
_http://wcaircraft.com/boonervday.html_
(http://wcaircraft.com/boonervday.html)
Saturday June 14 2008
This should be within 1000 miles for a lot of people.
Sure would like to see some of you there.
Shameless promotion of what is always a good time.
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ignition Cable clamp |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Who knows where I can get two of these ignition cable clamps (for three cables)!
Michael
Zuerich, Switzerland
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183556#183556
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/zndkabelklemme_113.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Cable clamp |
I don't know a source, but you can take a plain ADEL clamp (a 1 1/4"
should do it) and remove the rubber part. Put a screw through the hole
and tighten up a nut. Place a 3/8" thick piece of 'something' in the
clamp and squeeze in a vise to make the clamp oblong. Replace the
rubber part and you should have a usable clamp.
Linn
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Who knows where I can get two of these ignition cable clamps (for three cables)!
>
> Michael
> Zuerich, Switzerland
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183556#183556
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/zndkabelklemme_113.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition Cable clamp |
Are you thinking of the Engine Baffle Ignition Wire Seals like on aircraft
Spruce cat/ page 272? Or something else?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn"
Who knows where I can get two of these ignition cable clamps (for three
cables)!
Michael
Zuerich, Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Performance Data Point |
We took off from Palm Springs this afternoon. It was HOT, but the plane
performed flawlessly. OAT was 38C, DA 3250'
We opted for the long runway, but it wasn't necessary. We used 1/3 flaps
but did not lean for takeoff. We "rolled" into the departure, and were off
before the threshold. I used Google Earth to estimate the takeoff
distance--very close to 1250'. Climb was just a little less than normal. I
was worried about oil temp, which got to the bottom of the yellow by around
6000'. We nosed over a bit until it cooled and then just continued the
climb (at that point we were passing 1000' over a Mooney that took off in
front of us...).
Takeoff weight was about 2450
CHT was always around 385.
This is a great plane!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
VH-ICY signed off today. Can you believe the Dynon crapped itself so
cant fly till its fixed.....oh well another couple of weeks to check
everything
regards Chris 388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
VH-ICY signed off today. Can you believe the Dynon crapped itself so
cant fly till its fixed.....oh well another couple of weeks to check
everything
regards Chris 388
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Cable clamp |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Linn,
I I am looking for the ignition clamps that attach to
the valve covers as you said the Adel Clamp modification is one way. However I
wonder if there are the clamps for one and for two cables there must be also some
out there for three did all six cylinder engine owners manufacture them themselves?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183632#183632
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
wow = awesome paint job.
Hope that you are going to OSH
Very sorry about the Dynon - would you use it if you did it again?
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183635#183635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wheel pant and tire clearance |
what clearance have builders left between the wheel pant and tire? mains?
nose? Is one inch adequate or too much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | wheel pant and tire clearance |
David,
1" sounds pretty good to me. I probably have a little less in mine, I
basically created a gap I could slide my fingers into comfortably. I
started off with the gap a little too small on the aft side of the wheel
and it didn't work out so well. While a tight gap would be nice, having a
buffer for the wheel distorting will be a much better thing in the long run.
I highly recommend you measure the gaps with weight on wheels to make sure
it's valid.
Marcus
Do not archvie
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wheel pant and tire clearance
what clearance have builders left between the wheel pant and tire? mains?
nose? Is one inch adequate or too much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel Bearing auto part numbers |
Can anybody verify the part numbers for the RV-10 main wheel bearings
(bearing cup part number and bearing cone part number)? The wheel is a
Cleveland 40-59A. As best I can tell, the Cleveland bearing part
numbers are 214-01300 (cup) and 214-01400 (cone), with equivalent auto
part numbers LM29710 and LM29479.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
I am in Australia, might just be out of the test area!
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: VH-ICY
>
> wow = awesome paint job.
> Hope that you are going to OSH
> Very sorry about the Dynon - would you use it if you did it again?
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183635#183635
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Windows installation - epilog |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
For those that may be interested, attached is the data sheet for FE6026
that some have recommended. There is no reference to bonding to
plastics (particularly acrylic which is notoriously difficult to bond
to) and my very subjective test indicated that the bond strength to
acrylic was little better than epoxy/flox.
So my conclusions were as follows ('structural' here is subjective and
means that only average force was required to separate the bond. I was
really interested in the substrate breaking before the bond) - :
1. Epoxy/flox bond strength to acrylic was not structural
2. FE6026 bond strength to acrylic was not structural
3. Sikaflex requires a 3/16" bed and is not structural (see also
the really interesting thread on Sikaflex on the VAF list) (not tested)
4. Silpruf bond strength of ~300psi is not structural (not tested)
5. ScotchWeld 2216 B/A (1100 psi) achieves max peel strength with a
17-25 mil bond line (too bad if you need spacers or have gaps to fill)
(not tested)
6. Did not have any Hysol, but from all accounts appears to be
structural and an alterante to Weld on
A supply of Weld-on arrived in Australia the day after I ordered the
FE6026 and 2216 B/A from Spruce. For the record, I used the Weldon -
piece of mind that the windshield is an integral part of the cabin and
the bond will not fail if the unimaginable happens. YMMV, but if you
depart from the plans, I would encourage you to do your own
research/tests. What I did find is that there are some amazing
adhesives out there for gluing Aluminium together!!
<>
Cheers
Ron
187 finishing
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a MB
receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over the final
approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM flashes on the EFIS. Same
question for ADF except for perhaps outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB
seem to be last century's technology.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
-->
The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
We have two RV-10's using the same scheme as Carl wrote and it works well. There
is a lot of power coming up from the ground so a simple wire is sufficient.
If you plan to install a Bob Archer wingtip antenna today or add a backup NAV
antenna in the future suggest you glass in the wire antenna on the upper side
of the wingtip. If you glass it on the bottom the Bob Archer antenna will not
work properly.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Carl Froehlich wrote:
The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Thank you for the information Carl. I also received a call which advised me that
the MB in wingtip would work with a 18"x 6" wide base plate on which the MB
antenna (Comant CI-102) would be mounted as close to the bottom of the wing tip
as possible. This would give me a mounting plate as well as the "ground plane".
I am not that knowledgeable in this area so any help is appreciated.
I am essentially a VFR pilot but I wanted my plane certified as Day/Nite VFR/IFR
so I have an SL30 Nav/Com and a Garmin 340 audio panel. My GPS is a Garmin 496.
I figure that I saved about 6K on my panel over having a GNS430 plus on the
496 I get weather and Zaon traffic avoidance. Seems to me the best bang for
the buck. My AFS3500 apparently displays the GS but not the MB.
Any further comments appreciated.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183752#183752
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a_panel_327.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: closed loop rudder |
Dave Leikam wrote:
> Interesting design.
>
> Have you considered the lever arm force on the tabs holding the
> extensions to the rudder cables when the rudder hits the stops or just
> the repeated forward and back pressures from the rudder in flight.
Yes I did. Don't have the figures handy ..... they're lost in my office
clutter :-P .... but the tensile strength was way up there past what we
can press on them. The tube has the thickest wall I could find that
didn't compromise the tab.
> Could a small amount of continued flexing eventually break the tabs?
I don't think so ..... the original tab has an offset bend in it that
doesn't straighten out ..... as best I can determine.
> The force on the tabs is now torque rather than tension. Just my
> humble observation.
Good point though! Thanks for the note.
Linn
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not wire it up
for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining it is passing
the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC approach. The MB is
an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it may be superfluous
in the age of GPS overlay.
The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would have to actually
install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a MB
> receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over the final
> approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM flashes on the EFIS. Same
> question for ADF except for perhaps outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB
> seem to be last century's technology.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>
> -->
>
> The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
> quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
> well.
>
> A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
> with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
> this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
> strip over a single wire.
>
> The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
> BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
> antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
> another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
> connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
> have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
> remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
> connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
> wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
>
> If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
> from the wing rib as possible.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (400 hrs)
> RV-10 (flaps)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>
>
> Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
> Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
> Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
> Appreciate any comments.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
> top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GA airports for Chicago - Add on Detroit (Red Bull) |
Sorry for the late reply...midway does have GA facilities as does Gary, IN
just south and east of downtown
Chicago...Gary is GA friendly it seems and closer to downtown than DuPage if
that's were you're headed
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker beacons and NDB's.
Is that not correct?
David Maib
40559
buried in fiberglass dust
On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis" wrote:
>
>A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not wire it up
for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining it is passing
the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC approach. The MB
is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it may be superfluous
in the age of GPS overlay.
>
>The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would have to actually
install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
>
>William
>http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>-------- Original Message --------
>>
>> May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a MB
>> receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over the final
>> approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM flashes on the EFIS. Same
>> question for ADF except for perhaps outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB
>> seem to be last century's technology.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
>> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>>
>> -->
>>
>> The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
>> quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
>> well.
>>
>> A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
>> with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
>> this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
>> strip over a single wire.
>>
>> The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
>> BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
>> antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
>> another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
>> connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
>> have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
>> remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
>> connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
>> wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
>>
>> If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
>> from the wing rib as possible.
>>
>> Carl Froehlich
>> RV-8A (400 hrs)
>> RV-10 (flaps)
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>>
>>
>> Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
>> Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
>> Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
>> Appreciate any comments.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
>> top/door purgatory
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I'll have to check but I believe the substitution is only allowed for NBD and
DME not MB--but again this is splitting hairs.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker beacons and
NDB's. Is that not correct?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> buried in fiberglass dust
>
> On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis" wrote:
> >
> >A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not wire it
up for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining it is passing
the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC approach. The MB
is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it may be superfluous
in the age of GPS overlay.
> >
> >The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would have to actually
install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
> >
> >William
> >http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >
> >-------- Original Message --------
> >>
> >> May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a MB
> >> receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over the final
> >> approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM flashes on the EFIS. Same
> >> question for ADF except for perhaps outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB
> >> seem to be last century's technology.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
> >> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
> >>
> >> -->
> >>
> >> The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
> >> quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
> >> well.
> >>
> >> A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make
it
> >> with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
> >> this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
> >> strip over a single wire.
> >>
> >> The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
> >> BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
> >> antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
> >> another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
> >> connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
> >> have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
> >> remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
> >> connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
> >> wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
> >>
> >> If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
> >> from the wing rib as possible.
> >>
> >> Carl Froehlich
> >> RV-8A (400 hrs)
> >> RV-10 (flaps)
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> >> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
> >>
> >>
> >> Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
> >> Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
> >> Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
> >> Appreciate any comments.
> >>
> >> --------
> >> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
> >> top/door purgatory
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
If you are equipped to fly ILS/LOC approaches, and you intend to fly such
when you can, that is, when you feel that is your best or only option, then
put the MB in. In some cases it may be your only option. Should you lose
that GPS, you're all set. Easy enough to do, sounds like.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
I'll have to check but I believe the substitution is only allowed for NBD
and DME not MB--but again this is splitting hairs.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker beacons
and NDB's. Is that not correct?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> buried in fiberglass dust
>
> On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis"
wrote:
> >-->
> >
> >A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not wire
it up for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining it is
passing the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC approach.
The MB is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it may
be superfluous in the age of GPS overlay.
> >
> >The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would have to
actually install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
> >
> >William
> >http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >
> >-------- Original Message --------
> >>
> >> May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a
> >> MB receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over
> >> the final approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM
> >> flashes on the EFIS. Same question for ADF except for perhaps
> >> outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB seem to be last century's
technology.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
> >> Froehlich
> >> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
> >>
> >> -->
> >>
> >> The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A
> >> simple quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the
> >> cowl should work well.
> >>
> >> A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If
> >> you make it with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up
> >> slightly shorter. For this single frequency application there are
> >> no advantages to a wide metal strip over a single wire.
> >>
> >> The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female
> >> bulkhead BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or
> >> firewall (cowl antenna). From this you can make the connection to
> >> the antenna wire using another male BNC connector. Leave some
> >> slack so you can remove the connector and hot glue or glass in the
> >> rest of the antenna wire. If you have an old piece of coax laying
> >> around you can fit a male BNC to it, then remove the outer jacket
> >> and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC connector,
> >> leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the wire so
the total length is 37 1/2".
> >>
> >> If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring
> >> and as far from the wing rib as possible.
> >>
> >> Carl Froehlich
> >> RV-8A (400 hrs)
> >> RV-10 (flaps)
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> >> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
> >>
> >>
> >> Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
> >> Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
> >> Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no
brainer.
> >> Appreciate any comments.
> >>
> >> --------
> >> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited
> >> cabin top/door purgatory
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
Bill
Any theoretical reason why the top vs the bottom of the wingtip? When
I took my EAA class about year and half ago, they showed the
installation in the bottom half of the wingtip?
Fred.
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> We have two RV-10's using the same scheme as Carl wrote and it works
> well. There is a lot of power coming up from the ground so a simple
> wire is sufficient. If you plan to install a Bob Archer wingtip
> antenna today or add a backup NAV antenna in the future suggest you
> glass in the wire antenna on the upper side of the wingtip. If you
> glass it on the bottom the Bob Archer antenna will not work properly.
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB, flying
>
> */Carl Froehlich /* wrote:
>
>
> The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A
> simple
> quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl
> should work
> well.
>
> A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If
> you make it
> with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly
> shorter. For
> this single frequency application there are no advantages to a
> wide metal
> strip over a single wire.
>
> The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female
> bulkhead
> BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
> antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna
> wire using
> another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
> connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire.
> If you
> have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to
> it, then
> remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch
> from the BNC
> connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on),
> cut the
> wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
>
> If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring
> and as far
> from the wing rib as possible.
>
> Carl
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sam(at)fr8dog.net" <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
Just glassed mine in the wingtip, works great!
Sam
---- AirMike wrote:
============
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
Marker beacons have been on the phase out plan by the FAA for some time.
I've been surprised a few times when a beacon actually sounded off, but
it has been awhile. No middle marker that I know of is required for an
ILS anymore as DH is used instead, and very few use outer markers
anymore, and those are usually named, published fixes in GPS databases.
Otherwise have approach control give you a radar fix for the FAF.
John Jessen wrote:
>
> If you are equipped to fly ILS/LOC approaches, and you intend to fly such
> when you can, that is, when you feel that is your best or only option, then
> put the MB in. In some cases it may be your only option. Should you lose
> that GPS, you're all set. Easy enough to do, sounds like.
>
> John J
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:49 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>
>
> I'll have to check but I believe the substitution is only allowed for NBD
> and DME not MB--but again this is splitting hairs.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>>
>> I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker beacons
>>
> and NDB's. Is that not correct?
>
>> David Maib
>> 40559
>> buried in fiberglass dust
>>
>> On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis"
>>
> wrote:
>
>>> -->
>>>
>>> A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not wire
>>>
> it up for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining it is
> passing the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC approach.
> The MB is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it may
> be superfluous in the age of GPS overlay.
>
>>> The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would have to
>>>
> actually install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
>
>>> William
>>> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>>>
>>> -------- Original Message --------
>>>
>>>> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
True enough. But they do exist and are useful, even as verification, until
totally eliminated. Brings up a point about going with the SL40 vs the
SL30. I'd go with the 30 simply because it gives you the VOR's as a useful
tool. Some say not to since they, too, are supposedly on the way out. Just
depends on how many revs back you want to go. You have to know how to fly
and utilize what's in your panel.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Marker beacons have been on the phase out plan by the FAA for some time.
I've been surprised a few times when a beacon actually sounded off, but it
has been awhile. No middle marker that I know of is required for an ILS
anymore as DH is used instead, and very few use outer markers anymore, and
those are usually named, published fixes in GPS databases.
Otherwise have approach control give you a radar fix for the FAF.
John Jessen wrote:
>
> If you are equipped to fly ILS/LOC approaches, and you intend to fly
> such when you can, that is, when you feel that is your best or only
> option, then put the MB in. In some cases it may be your only option.
> Should you lose that GPS, you're all set. Easy enough to do, sounds like.
>
> John J
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:49 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>
>
> I'll have to check but I believe the substitution is only allowed for
> NBD and DME not MB--but again this is splitting hairs.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>>
>> I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker
>> beacons
>>
> and NDB's. Is that not correct?
>
>> David Maib
>> 40559
>> buried in fiberglass dust
>>
>> On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis"
>>
>>
> wrote:
>
>>> -->
>>>
>>> A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not
>>> wire
>>>
> it up for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining
> it is passing the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC
approach.
> The MB is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it
> may be superfluous in the age of GPS overlay.
>
>>> The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would
>>> have to
>>>
> actually install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
>
>>> William
>>> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>>>
>>> -------- Original Message --------
>>>
>>>> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
No disagreement, since I still have working ADF, MB and Loran in my current
panel. Don't think I will move any of them to new panel when I get there,
but probably a couple years off to decide.
On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 9:05 PM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> True enough. But they do exist and are useful, even as verification, until
> totally eliminated. Brings up a point about going with the SL40 vs the
> SL30. I'd go with the 30 simply because it gives you the VOR's as a useful
> tool. Some say not to since they, too, are supposedly on the way out.
> Just
> depends on how many revs back you want to go. You have to know how to fly
> and utilize what's in your panel.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 5:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
>
>
> Marker beacons have been on the phase out plan by the FAA for some time.
> I've been surprised a few times when a beacon actually sounded off, but it
> has been awhile. No middle marker that I know of is required for an ILS
> anymore as DH is used instead, and very few use outer markers anymore, and
> those are usually named, published fixes in GPS databases.
> Otherwise have approach control give you a radar fix for the FAF.
>
> John Jessen wrote:
> >
> > If you are equipped to fly ILS/LOC approaches, and you intend to fly
> > such when you can, that is, when you feel that is your best or only
> > option, then put the MB in. In some cases it may be your only option.
> > Should you lose that GPS, you're all set. Easy enough to do, sounds
> like.
> >
> > John J
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> > Curtis
> > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:49 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
> >
> >
> > I'll have to check but I believe the substitution is only allowed for
> > NBD and DME not MB--but again this is splitting hairs.
> >
> > William
> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> >
> >>
> >> I thought that an IFR approved GPS could legally identify marker
> >> beacons
> >>
> > and NDB's. Is that not correct?
> >
> >> David Maib
> >> 40559
> >> buried in fiberglass dust
> >>
> >> On Monday, May 19, 2008, at 09:02AM, "William Curtis"
> >>
> >>
> > wrote:
> >
> >>> -->
> >>>
> >>> A Marker Beacon receiver is included in most audio panels so why not
> >>> wire
> >>>
> > it up for the pure ILS/LOC approaches. How is that EFIS determining
> > it is passing the OM--by GPS position? Not exactly legal for an ILS/LOC
> approach.
> > The MB is an integral component of an ILS/LOC approach--even though it
> > may be superfluous in the age of GPS overlay.
> >
> >>> The comparison to an ADF is not valid since for an ADF you would
> >>> have to
> >>>
> > actually install an additional component--in addition to the antenna.
> >
> >>> William
> >>> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >>>
> >>> -------- Original Message --------
> >>>
> >>>> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Probably got myself in over my head, but I had dual lightspeeds installed on my
IO540 from Performance Engines.... has anyone else gone through the process of
hooking up the coils and tach's? I've got an AF3500 with a backup std Van's
tach.
The leads coming from the black boxes are labeled A, B and C, one box on each
side.... is there an easy way of figuring which wires go to which coils?
Don McDonald
Finishing #40636
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual LIghtspeed |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I've got dual LSEs on my engine also. There is a procedure in the install manual for connecting the coils and figuring out what gets hooked to what. http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/Ignition.htm
As you noted, the controller box has outputs labeled "A", "B" and "C". As I recall,
the procedure is to connect the coils to the boxes with the plug wires disconnected
and then rotate the prop (or a magnet) to make sure the coils fire
at the appropriate time. It fires opposing cylinders at the same time and you'll
get a spark at 0, 120 and 240 degrees of rotation. Make sure when you rotate
the prop (or run the magnet past the sensors) that you're going in the correct
direction.
I THINK that the correct hookup for my Plasma IIIs was "A" firing the coil for
cylinders 1/2, "C" firing the coil for cylinders 3/4 and "B" firing the coil for
cylinders 5/6.
Bob
N442PM (#40105) flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183969#183969
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aerotronics RV-10 Panel |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Is someone on the list who installed the Aerotronics RV-10 panel?
http://www.aerotronics.com/experimental/vans_category.php#rv10
What are your experience, how much additional "fitting" work is required?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183983#183983
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henkjan van der Zouw <henkjan(at)zme.nl> |
| Subject: | Aerotronics RV-10 Panel |
Look at www.zme.nl and click the kitlog logo, and it will fit your
center console as well!
Additional fitting work?......a lot!
Best regards
Henkjan
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Michael Wellenzohn
Verzonden: dinsdag 20 mei 2008 9:09
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV10-List: Aerotronics RV-10 Panel
Is someone on the list who installed the Aerotronics RV-10 panel?
http://www.aerotronics.com/experimental/vans_category.php#rv10
What are your experience, how much additional "fitting" work is
required?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183983#183983
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerotronics RV-10 Panel |
Michael, I saw Henkjan's pics and 'fell in love' with the panel,
e-mailed him to find out where he got it and then contacted Aerotronics
who warned me that it would require additional fitting. They and Henkjan
are right! I'm not sure I went about it the best way, but the 1st 3-4
links on this page show how I mounted the panel to the fuse/upper fwd
fuse. http://deemsrv10.com/upperfwdfuseinstallationlogindex.html There
are several other pages that show the installation. as well. I am VERY
happy with the end result so far, it is aesthetically pleasing to me,
however it took a lot of additional work. (I still have to reset the
copilot subpanel as it is slightly crooked)
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Panel/slides/DSC05574.html. One thing to be
aware of is that the design of this panel restricts the use of the
available 'real estate' so if you have a lot of components that you want
to put in the panel, make sure they will all fit. I also made a center
console to match to it as well.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DSC03024.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
>
> Look at www.zme.nl and click the kitlog logo, and it will fit your
> center console as well!
> Additional fitting work?......a lot!
>
> Best regards
> Henkjan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual LIghtspeed |
Don,
There should have been a manual included with your LightSpeed ignition. The same
manual is on their web site:
http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/Ignition.htm
It's pretty well written and explains all the installation and testing process.
Jim Combs
N312F - Finishing
40192
===========================================================
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 2008/05/19 Mon PM 10:48:58 EDT
Subject: RV10-List: Dual LIghtspeed
Probably got myself in over my head, but I had dual lightspeeds installed on my
IO540 from Performance Engines.... has anyone else gone through the process of
hooking up the coils and tach's? I've got an AF3500 with a backup std Van's
tach.
The leads coming from the black boxes are labeled A, B and C, one box on each
side.... is there an easy way of figuring which wires go to which coils?
Don McDonald
Finishing #40636
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 530 memory battery |
Last weekend while flying our Glastar I was greeted by a message on
my Garmin 530 ,"Internal Memory Battery Low". When I got home I
looked up the error message in the big handbook, it says take the unit
to the nearest authorized Garmin dealer and have the battery changed.
This battery apparently backs-up the onboard memory which holds
flightplans and other user data. Well, I just couldn't resist the
temptation to look under the hood to see how "replaceable" this battery
is. As I'm well aware, a trip to the Garmin Dealer usually makes a
trip to the Lexus dealer look like a kids play.
I found the battery and well its not for the faint of heart, and for
those who don't mind watching open heart surgery I've included a picture
of my 530 laid out on the table. The battery is a commonly available
Sanyo Lithium cell # CR15250SE with solder tabs available from Newark
Electronics and others for about $6. The battery is soldered into a
circuit board deep inside the unit and also has a little dab of adhesive
for good measure. The good news is that although the battery is
deep inside the 530, everything inside the unit is very connectorized
and modular, about 20 screws removed and a half a dozen connectors
disconnected and you are to the pc board with the battery. The battery
comes off with standard desoldering techniques and the new battery is
installed in a flash.
With the unit all reassembled it was back to the field for the
moment of truth. All is well and after reacquiring its location my
GNS530 is happy again.
Oh yeah, the original battery lasted just shy of 10 years.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 530 memory battery |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Bob,
You did not take advantage of the WAAS upgrade for the 530 while it was $1500?
Garmin pretty much replaces the whole innards with the upgrade. Oh well, next
time if you are not so adventurous, try Charlie Blackert at Airport Radio over
at Braden (N43). As a Garmin authorized dealer he can do this stuff for an
hour or so of labor and the cost of the battery. He replaced the sticking buttons
on my 430 a while back.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Last weekend while flying our Glastar I was greeted by a message on my Garmin
530 ,"Internal Memory Battery Low". When I got home I looked up the error
message in the big handbook, it says take the unit to the nearest authorized
Garmin dealer and have the battery changed. This battery apparently backs-up
the onboard memory which holds flightplans and other user data. Well, I
just couldn't resist the temptation to look under the hood to see how "replaceable"
this battery is. As I'm well aware, a trip to the Garmin Dealer usually
makes a trip to the Lexus dealer look like a kids play.
> I found the battery and well its not for the faint of heart, and for those
who don't mind watching open heart surgery I've included a picture of my 530
laid out on the table. The battery is a commonly available Sanyo Lithium cell
# CR15250SE with solder tabs available from Newark Electronics and others
for about $6. The battery is soldered into a circuit board deep inside the
unit and also has a little dab of adhesive for good measure. The good news
is that although the battery is deep inside the 530, everything inside the
unit is very connectorized and modular, about 20 screws removed and a half a
dozen connectors disconnected and you are to the pc board with the battery.
The battery comes off with standard desoldering techniques and the new battery
is installed in a flash.
> With the unit all reassembled it was back to the field for the moment of
truth. All is well and after reacquiring its location my GNS530 is happy again.
>
> Oh yeah, the original battery lasted just shy of 10 years.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies
> www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerotronics RV-10 Panel |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
They did my panel for me - awesome. See my post previously put on this site under
"Aerotronics - Blatant plug for - Plug & Play panel".
They are very complete. You do need to do a lot of finish wiring, but I went to
Billings (They are also at OSH) to pick it up. They gave me three hours of training
in finish wiring. Basically they give you a bunch of connectors to just
conjoin with their connectors already on the panel. Very simple and the directions
are excellent (diagrams).
I figure that they saved me about 400 hours of build time and infinite aggravation.
Plus it looks really professional. Their pricing is not cheap, but for what
you get it is a bargain. If you need support or have questions, it is included
- no extra charge for the 1st year.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184120#184120
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a_panel_136.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 memory battery |
To top it off, a call to Garmin would have been the order of the day.... to get
an estimate, of course. I'm quite sure it would have made your day.
Don Finishing 40636
Bob-tcw wrote:
Last weekend while flying our Glastar I was greeted by a message
on my Garmin 530 ,"Internal Memory Battery Low". When I got home I looked up
the error message in the big handbook, it says take the unit to the nearest
authorized Garmin dealer and have the battery changed. This battery apparently
backs-up the onboard memory which holds flightplans and other user data.
Well, I just couldn't resist the temptation to look under the hood to see
how "replaceable" this battery is. As I'm well aware, a trip to the Garmin
Dealer usually makes a trip to the Lexus dealer look like a kids play.
I found the battery and well its not for the faint of heart, and for those
who don't mind watching open heart surgery I've included a picture of my 530
laid out on the table. The battery is a commonly available Sanyo Lithium cell
# CR15250SE with solder tabs available from Newark Electronics and others
for about $6. The battery is soldered into a circuit board deep inside the
unit and also has a little dab of adhesive for good measure. The good news
is that although the battery is deep inside the 530, everything inside the
unit is very connectorized and modular, about 20 screws removed and a half a
dozen connectors disconnected and you are to the pc board with the battery.
The battery comes off with standard desoldering techniques and the new battery
is installed in a flash.
With the unit all reassembled it was back to the field for the moment of
truth. All is well and after reacquiring its location my GNS530 is happy again.
Oh yeah, the original battery lasted just shy of 10 years.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Reference to page 24-3 of the plans on the installation of the wing tips.
I have pre-fitted the tip using "step 1" and drilled/clecoed #40 the attach holes.
It seems to line up pretty good. I do not understand why you want to remove
the wing tip per "Step 2"
It would seem better to just finish drill #28 right thru the aluminum and the fiberglass
to maintain alignment and keep the fiberglass from puckering. After
drilling you can detach the tip and do the dimpling, deburring, countersinking
and aligning the nut plates.
Is there something that I am missing here.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184139#184139
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I guess they want to be sure that no chips are caught between the fiberglass and
the aluminum.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184142#184142
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered the a
ilerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the reflex positi
on when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175 hours since my fi
rst flight.It=C2- has required significant rudder trim-solved with a fixed
tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons of fuel.The ailerons are syme
trical when the stick is neutral that is both trailing edges are above the f
laps by an equal amount.Any thoughts from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
=C2-
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I purch
ased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows. The vide
o can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
=C2-
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
=C2-
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After that
it was a very nice "how to" video.
=C2-
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in place
on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the canopy. A be
ad of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos are used to kee
p everything in pace while things dry.
=C2-
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step. It e
xplains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
=C2-
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy. After pain
ting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. =C2-Apparently Silpruf cannot be
painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your pain scheme.
=C2-
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this method they
being:
=C2-
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf has a lon
g working time so you don=99t have to play =9Cbeat the clock
=9D when installing.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf is non re
active so you can use normal masking tape to setup the =9Creveal
=9D edges. You will have lots of time to get everything just right before
you have to remove the masks.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf is flexib
le so there won=99t be cracks in the paint / caulking around the windo
ws
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- In the event that a w
indow needs to be replaced. It would be a much easier job to remove & replac
e the window *I think*.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- You are not glassing
onto a window with all the associated issues with sanding etc. As someone me
ntioned in an earlier post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up wi
th an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Before curing and aft
er, excess along the groove can be easily removed.
=C2-
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of colours i
ncluding: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium, GreyDark, Grey, Pr
ecast White and Bronze.
=C2-
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the front win
dow is installed. My recollection was there was no =9Cjoggle=9D
at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using Silpruf on the front windscreen
would, I think, require building a joggle and then trimming the window to f
it. I just noticed that Dave noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
=C2-
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step. It e
xplains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you are contemplating us
ing this method, get the video, it is well worth the cost.
=C2-
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still have
a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
=C2-
Cheers
=C2-
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
=C2-
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-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
This might not be much help, but I did have to readjust my right flap
due to airframe contact. It had a heavy left wing. So I would think
that it may be your flap rigging.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rigging-ailerons v flaps
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered
the ailerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the
reflex position when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175
hours since my first flight.It has required significant rudder
trim-solved with a fixed tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons
of fuel.The ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral that is
both trailing edges are above the flaps by an equal amount.Any thoughts
from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I
purchased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows.
The video can be found at: <http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9>
http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After
that it was a very nice "how to" video.
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in
place on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the
canopy. A bead of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos
are used to keep everything in pace while things dry.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step.
It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal.
It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy. After
painting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf cannot
be painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your pain
scheme.
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this method
they being:
=C2=B7 The Silpruf has a long working time so you don=99t
have to play =9Cbeat the clock=9D when installing.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is non reactive so you can use normal masking
tape to setup the =9Creveal=9D edges. You will have lots of
time to get everything just right before you have to remove the masks.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is flexible so there won=99t be cracks
in the paint / caulking around the windows
=C2=B7 In the event that a window needs to be replaced. It would
be a much easier job to remove & replace the window *I think*.
=C2=B7 You are not glassing onto a window with all the
associated issues with sanding etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier
post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up with an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7 Before curing and after, excess along the groove can be
easily removed.
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of
colours including: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium,
GreyDark, Grey, Precast White and Bronze.
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the front
window is installed. My recollection was there was no
=9Cjoggle=9D at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using
Silpruf on the front windscreen would, I think, require building a
joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just noticed that Dave
noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step.
It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal.
It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you are
contemplating using this method, get the video, it is well worth the
cost.
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still
have a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Stay informed, get connected and more
<http://mobile.aol.com/productOverview.jsp?productOverview=aol-mobile-o
verview&?ncid=aolmbd00030000000139> with AOL on your phone.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
I would not worry about the aileron rigging as much as
being sure that the flaps don't need to be raised to
be in the proper position. The Citation I fly has the
ailerons rigged both about .375" up, it flys great.
I've heard of aircraft racers intentionally rigging
ailerons this way to reduce drag.
Steve 40212
--- pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote:
> I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint
> and have discovered the ailerons are about .125 of
> an inch higher than the flaps in the reflex position
> when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has
> 175 hours since my first flight.It has required
> significant rudder trim-solved with a fixed tab,and
> a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons of fuel.The
> ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral
> that is both trailing edges are above the flaps by
> an equal amount.Any thoughts from other builders.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
> Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation
> and other magic
>
>
>
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and
> other comments, I purchased the AirlinkTech video on
> using Silpruf to set install windows. The video can
> be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
>
>
>
> I watched the video last night and have a few
> comments, FWIW.
>
>
>
> First, a big negative - its on a VHS tape not on
> a DVD. After that it was a very nice "how to" video.
>
>
>
> In short the process used is to mask the windows and
> then set them in place on small Silpruf standoffs
> that keep the windows flush with the canopy. A bead
> of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on
> clecos are used to keep everything in pace while
> things dry.
>
>
>
> The video is very detailed and shows everything
> required, step by step. It explains how and why to
> mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
> shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
>
>
>
> A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows
> and the canopy. After painting, Silpruf is used to
> fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf cannot be
> painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works
> with your pain scheme.
>
>
>
> At first blush there seems to be some obvious
> advantages to this method they being:
>
>
>
> The Silpruf has a long working
> time so you dont have to play beat the
> clock when installing.
>
> The Silpruf is non reactive so
> you can use normal masking tape to setup the
> reveal edges. You will have lots of time to
> get everything just right before you have to remove
> the masks.
>
> The Silpruf is flexible so there
> wont be cracks in the paint / caulking around the
> windows
>
> In the event that a window needs
> to be replaced. It would be a much easier job to
> remove & replace the window *I think*.
>
> You are not glassing onto a
> window with all the associated issues with sanding
> etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier post, with
> windows you cant fix a screw up with an OOPS
> rivet.
>
> Before curing and after, excess
> along the groove can be easily removed.
>
>
>
> A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a
> wide choice of colours including: White, Black,
> Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium, GreyDark, Grey,
> Precast White and Bronze.
>
>
>
> Right after I watched the video I checked the plans
> to see how the front window is installed. My
> recollection was there was no joggle at the
> bottom of the front windscreen. Using Silpruf on the
> front windscreen would, I think, require building a
> joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just
> noticed that Dave noted this rework in one of his
> posts as well.
>
>
>
> The video is very detailed and shows everything
> required, step by step. It explains how and why to
> mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
> shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If
> you are contemplating using this method, get the
> video, it is well worth the cost.
>
>
>
> Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the
> side windows. I still have a lot of time to
> contemplate the front windscreen..
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 moving from rivets to systems
>
> C-GCWZ
>
>
>
>
>
> -= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to
> browse
> -= the many List utilities such as List
> Un/Subscription,
> -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat,
> FAQ,
> -= Photoshare, and much much more:
> -= -->
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> -========================-= -
> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> -= Same great content also available via the Web
> Forums!
> -= --> http://forums.matronics.com
> -========================-= - List
> Contribution Web Site -
> -= Thank you for your generous support!
> -= -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.
> -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -=======================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I am planning on ordering Crow harnesses and would like to know if anybody knows
the correct measurements for front and rear seats? Shoulder harnesses and lap
belts. [Question]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184229#184229
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It's that time! http://www.airventure.org/
The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan)
have arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year
AirVenture is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that we'll
stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites weren't 100%
contiguous last year we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the
possibility of doing it even earlier this year but to have any
measurable impact on location that would mean having to stake them out
before the weekend and that means significant additional cost (+$80 per
site) for little gain. We wouldn't get much closer but would
potentially have the group closer together. As it was last year, we had
about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly across or
diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in reserving a
site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over and stake
them out.
For those that haven't participated before and/or need a refresher on
how it works - Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support
reservations - first come, first served. By arriving early the week
prior we've always been able to get very close to the entrance just
south of Hangars B and C. There are shower facilities along with a camp
store within 5 minutes walking time of where we normally camp, but the
sites themselves do not have water, sewer or electrical hookups. Many
people have generators either built in or standalone and those are
allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is also a service that
will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a reasonable fee. EAA
will not allow sites to be staked out without registration tags and in
order to get a tag you have to pay for the site. They charge a daily
rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until the end of the
show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days if you
leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people
come for the first few days and then "hand off" their site to somebody
else that was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of
info on his website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this
coordination. For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30)
registered in your name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp
Scholler and the ability to park without additional cost. While you
will likely have an empty camp site with your name on it for a few days,
it will guarantee you a close spot.
Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited
to campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary
and I are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for
those who need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and
you can contribute what you think its worth. We don't want to make
money on this but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is
surplus we'll use it as seed money for the next night or for something
to benefit the group. We don't have specific nights picked out - if
it's anything like last year there will be several. We also had a
surplus from the last evening cookout and will use that this year to
acquire an "extra" site that won't have anybody camping on it and use
that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating area.
As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, don't have all
the details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your
thoughts and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being
difficult last year was decided which site to assign to each person.
Last year we used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper
(we didn't put tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried
to take into account who would have kids along, etc. We're certainly
open to ideas on this but until we actually get to OSH we won't know how
things will be laid out.
If you are interested in camping with the group you should first
register on Tim's website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will
get a password back and will then have access to a protected area with
contact info for others attending OSH this year. You will then need to
send your payment along with EAA number to me. As we found out last
year, the EAA number is important! While last minute additions can be
accommodated, I'd like to make that the exception rather than the rule.
I can accept payment either by check or PayPal, but because PayPal
charges a fee to the recipient of about $7 on that amount, I'd ask that
you include that in your payment (total of $267) if you chose to go that
way. All of the sites will be paid for by check so you will get a
refund check directly from EAA as you leave the camping area if/when you
leave early. If you want to have a site staked out starting on 7/18,
please contact Tim directly.
A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if
you don't chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
Let the fun begin!
Bob Condrey
N442PM (#40105) flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger
is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made
in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of
the avionics suite.
Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary
battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually provide
"safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
the ground?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 425 Hours
RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Thanks for kicking it off Bob!
I've been getting some of the web stuff in place for OSH 2008
already so you'll start seeing more and more information pop
up there regarding the show and our camping. There isn't
any urgent need to do anything TODAY on this, so digest it
and in June you should start nailing the plans down and sending
payments if you want to reserve campsites.
As Bob mentioned a couple times, I myself will be going over
Friday July 18th to grab my own site, and actually at least
4 others. We realize we'll be paying a little more for this,
but that's how first-come first-served works. Since we know
not everyone will want to pay perhaps $80 extra for the
earlier spot reservations, we'll juggle the requests accordingly.
Ideally we'd get the largest number possible in a contiguous
area. If you have a large camper, you may want to reserve
on the early side so you can choose large sites.
This year I'm pumped and ready to go. I even picked up a
brand new Honda generator this year just for the show.
If anyone wants my "used once" 2-cycle 1200W generator
that I had there last year, it's yours for under $100.
I'll be bringing the plane again this year of course, and
we welcome as large a crowd as we can gather.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Its that time! http://www.airventure.org/
>
>
>
> The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan)
> have arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
> reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year
> AirVenture is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that well
> stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites werent 100%
> contiguous last year we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the
> possibility of doing it even earlier this year but to have any
> measurable impact on location that would mean having to stake them out
> before the weekend and that means significant additional cost (+$80 per
> site) for little gain. We wouldnt get much closer but would
> potentially have the group closer together. As it was last year, we had
> about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly across or
> diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in reserving a
> site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over and stake
> them out.
>
>
>
> For those that havent participated before and/or need a refresher on
> how it works Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support
> reservations first come, first served. By arriving early the week
> prior weve always been able to get very close to the entrance just
> south of Hangars B and C. There are shower facilities along with a camp
> store within 5 minutes walking time of where we normally camp, but the
> sites themselves do not have water, sewer or electrical hookups. Many
> people have generators either built in or standalone and those are
> allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is also a service that
> will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a reasonable fee. EAA
> will not allow sites to be staked out without registration tags and in
> order to get a tag you have to pay for the site. They charge a daily
> rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until the end of the
> show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days if you
> leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
> were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people
> come for the first few days and then hand off their site to somebody
> else that was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of
> info on his website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this
> coordination. For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30)
> registered in your name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp
> Scholler and the ability to park without additional cost. While you
> will likely have an empty camp site with your name on it for a few days,
> it will guarantee you a close spot.
>
>
>
> Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited
> to campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary
> and I are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for
> those who need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and
> you can contribute what you think its worth. We dont want to make
> money on this but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is
> surplus well use it as seed money for the next night or for something
> to benefit the group. We dont have specific nights picked out if
> its anything like last year there will be several. We also had a
> surplus from the last evening cookout and will use that this year to
> acquire an extra site that wont have anybody camping on it and use
> that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating area.
>
>
>
> As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, dont have all
> the details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your
> thoughts and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being
> difficult last year was decided which site to assign to each person.
> Last year we used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper
> (we didnt put tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried
> to take into account who would have kids along, etc. Were certainly
> open to ideas on this but until we actually get to OSH we wont know how
> things will be laid out.
>
>
>
> If you are interested in camping with the group you should first
> register on Tims website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will
> get a password back and will then have access to a protected area with
> contact info for others attending OSH this year. You will then need to
> send your payment along with EAA number to me. As we found out last
> year, the EAA number is important! While last minute additions can be
> accommodated, Id like to make that the exception rather than the rule.
> I can accept payment either by check or PayPal, but because PayPal
> charges a fee to the recipient of about $7 on that amount, Id ask that
> you include that in your payment (total of $267) if you chose to go that
> way. All of the sites will be paid for by check so you will get a
> refund check directly from EAA as you leave the camping area if/when you
> leave early. If you want to have a site staked out starting on 7/18,
> please contact Tim directly.
>
>
>
> A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if
> you dont chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
>
>
>
> Let the fun begin!
>
>
>
> Bob Condrey
>
> N442PM (#40105) flying
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
Following the directions from Vans mine were also up about the same so I
ajusted the push rods at the wing route.
Chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 2:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rigging-ailerons v flaps
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered
the ailerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the
reflex position when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175
hours since my first flight.It has required significant rudder
trim-solved with a fixed tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons
of fuel.The ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral that is
both trailing edges are above the flaps by an equal amount.Any thoughts
from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I
purchased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows.
The video can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After
that it was a very nice "how to" video.
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in
place on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the
canopy. A bead of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos
are used to keep everything in pace while things dry.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by
step. It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp
reveal. It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy.
After painting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf
cannot be painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your
pain scheme.
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this
method they being:
=C2=B7 The Silpruf has a long working time so you
don=99t have to play =9Cbeat the clock=9D when
installing.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is non reactive so you can use normal
masking tape to setup the =9Creveal=9D edges. You will have
lots of time to get everything just right before you have to remove the
masks.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is flexible so there won=99t be
cracks in the paint / caulking around the windows
=C2=B7 In the event that a window needs to be replaced. It
would be a much easier job to remove & replace the window *I think*.
=C2=B7 You are not glassing onto a window with all the
associated issues with sanding etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier
post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up with an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7 Before curing and after, excess along the groove can be
easily removed.
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of
colours including: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium,
GreyDark, Grey, Precast White and Bronze.
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the
front window is installed. My recollection was there was no
=9Cjoggle=9D at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using
Silpruf on the front windscreen would, I think, require building a
joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just noticed that Dave
noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by
step. It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp
reveal. It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you
are contemplating using this method, get the video, it is well worth the
cost.
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still
have a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Stay informed, get connected and more with AOL on your phone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Below are two posts by Bob Nuckolls on the Aeroelectric list. Hope they
help. Larry
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
>
> No replies to my initial post, so trying again....
>
> Should there be any issues in running my electrical system with a
> power supply instead of the alternater/engine running? I have a
> battery in the circuit (PC680).
> Do I need to connect the power supply directly to the battery or can I
> hook it to my shunt to simulate the power coming from the alternator?
>
> Just want to make sure that I don't fry anything.....
Some years ago I sold a 13.8 volt, 25A switchmode
power supply along with instructions on how to wire
it to the aircraft such that it emulated the ship's
alternator. This allowed a builder to fire up all but
the heaviest loads on the electrical system and to
exercise all the systems just as if the engine were
running and the alternator was turned ON.
If you have a well behaved power supply (13.8 volts
preferred, current limited against accidental shorts)
then you can basically hook it up about anywhere. Across
the battery is fine. This makes the battery master
capable of disconnecting your supply from system by
turning the battery master OFF.
See:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=5386+PS
also, the various smart-chargers with more robust
outputs like those shown on pages 6 and 7 of:
http://www.schumacherproducts.com/assets/pdf/sec_catalog.pdf
can be used. Again, just connect across the battery,
plug into wall and use the battery master for
control.
Wall-Mart sells several of these models. Get one
with 10A or more capability.
Bob . . .
Second one:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Mcculley"
> >
> >
> >Can someone recommend a source/model of bench power supply using 110V AC
> >input with 12V DC output, capable of up to 15 amps DC? Thanks,
> >
> >Jim McCulley
>
Do you really want 12v . . . or are you interested in
simulating an operating vehicle? 13.8v is a nominal bench
supply setting for emulating bus voltage. Here's a supply
I used to sell until they got so cheap that the margins
didn't fit my business model any more . . .
http://www.radiodan.com/misc/samlex1223.htm
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamps/3747.html
http://www.aaradio.com/cartfile/misc%20html/samlex.html
Bob . . .
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Indran Chelvanayagam <dc71(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
I've used an old computer ATX power supply - soldering several of the
12V wires together, as well as several of the ground wires together.
Battery bypassed altogether.
Cheap & effective.
Indran
On 22/05/2008, at 4:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the
> charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car
> made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part
> of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my
> primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually
> provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT |
Cluade and I plan to tent (8' by 8') camp on a site for the THR,FRI,SAT of
the show. We will attend the RV BBQ if we are there when it is held. I
already have purchased four tickets for the Vans dinner. If possible we will
camp on the end of some else's site and pay them for the three nights. Our
plan is to bring a tent and coffee making equipment and a beer cooler. we
will eat on the field. If someone will let us camp on the end of their site,
please advise off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Standard Astron 20A regulated power supply, less than $100. There is no
need to have the battery connected.
Here is one of many places to buy one.
http://www.hamradio.com/web/newcat/hrocat6.pdf
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
On 22/05/2008, at 4:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the
> charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car
> made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part
> of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my
> primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually
> provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GA airports for Chicago - Add on Detroit (Red Bull) |
| From: | "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> |
Tim you might try Grosse Ile (Iden) KONZ. I am planning on flying in there. It
is about 30 minute drive. They are having a big carnival there that weekend for
kids also. I have flown in there before. You can get a car rental if you need
it. It is right on the river about 10 miles south of the races.
Geoff Combs
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184293#184293
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two
A&P's ask me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I
didn't have a very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive
a there were a couple of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he
didn't know of any RV10 with a gascolator installed, but his post was
nearly three years ago. Has anyone installed or considering installing a
gascolator?
I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a
gascolator. The point they made with me is where does any accumulated
water in the fuel go then.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I owned a C177RG for 29 years and the FAA ADed a gascolator after about
1977. In all those years I never had water in the gascolator or lower fuel
sumps. In fact I found water in the wing fuel tank sumps only twice after an
FBO pumped in the water from contaminated fuel/water. BTW; one of those
times was during OSH.
The only thing the gascolator provided was another maintenance item which
required changing the seals every few years which was always located in a
very difficult position on the firewall.
another A&Ps view
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gascolator
I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two A&P's
ask me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I didn't have
a very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive a there were a
couple of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he didn't know of any
RV10 with a gascolator installed, but his post was nearly three years ago.
Has anyone installed or considering installing a gascolator?
I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a
gascolator. The point they made with me is where does any accumulated water
in the fuel go then.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Very interesting and informative. It seems that the wing tips only affix to the
aluminum part ONE WAY - tight. But the trailing 8-10" seems to be the area in
question - is that correct ?
>From what I can extrapolate is it ok to affix the forward part (in front of the
aileron hinge) and then split the rear and install the reinforcing section
after the ailerons are fitted and trimmed for flight ?? That way the trailing
edge is perfectly trimmed with the aileron ???
Boy it is great having this resource !!!!! Kuddos to Matt.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184304#184304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Let me guess, these A&P's are used to working on high wing airplanes right? I
tell you, you give some guy a hammer and everything looks like a nail.
The primary purpose of a gascolator is to "filter" water out of fuel that settles.
It can capture settling water but even a gascolator cannot capture water
being forced by a pump. Since water is heavier than fuel, in order for a gascolator
to the perform its function, it needs to be at the lowest point in the
fuel system. In a high wing aircraft, gascolator placement at a point lower
than the fuel tanks is relatively easy. In a low wing aircraft it is difficult
to place a gascolator lower than the fuel tanks so any benefits from filtering
out settling water is negligible. You can certainly put one on a low wing
aircraft, however the benefits are typically not worth the effort.
The accumulated water go out the individual tank drains. Those are the lowest
point in the fuel system.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two A&P's ask
me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I didn't have a
very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive a there were a couple
of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he didn't know of any RV10 with
a gascolator installed, but his post was nearly three years ago. Has anyone
installed or considering installing a gascolator?
>
> I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a gascolator.
The point they made with me is where does any accumulated water in the fuel
go then.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
> Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Robin,
About 3 years ago I built an APU for our needs here in the shop. It
consists of four medium size Walmart car batteries, a sturdy cart, a small
automatic trickle charger, and an old volt meter. We use it for starting
and for general 12V power supply needs. The trickle charger is hard wired
so when it's plugged in, it's charging. We plug it in overnight about once
a week. I don't think I've ever seen it drop below about 11.5 volts. It's
jumped a lot of dead batteries and seen several people through the new panel
fiddling stage, completely worry free. I think I have about $200 in it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit
I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass panel
fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I was told
that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running the avionics
is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger is not
"conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made in
Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of the
avionics suite.
Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette adapters
including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary battery - hot
all the time. What is the best way to continually provide "safe" power to my
battery to support my avionics for extended use on the ground?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 425 Hours
RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I have no experience with splitting the trailing edge and attempting
re-alignemnt. I think I read that Tim O. tried this and had to abandon
a tip in favour of a new one, so I did not even try. I think I have
also seen a post (from Jesse) about forming ('twisting?' the nose of the
LE to raise/lower the aft edge. There is a bit in the archives on this.
I would suggest the following order:
1. make certain the flap and aileron are on the wing and in the
trail position (flap fully up)
2. align the trailing edge with aileron/flap (use tape to attach
the tip to the wing)
3. drill the tip to the fuse
4. attach the tip.
5. Check the length of the tip - if the tip is too long, remove it
and apply some epoxy to beef up the inside of the TE in case you need to
remove the epoxy at the the existing TE join. From what I can tell, you
really don't want to separate the trailing edge.
6. trim the tip and shape as required.
YMMV, but this is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Hope this helps
Ron
187
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Thursday, 22 May 2008 2:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple
efficiency
Very interesting and informative. It seems that the wing tips only affix
to the aluminum part ONE WAY - tight. But the trailing 8-10" seems to be
the area in question - is that correct ?
>From what I can extrapolate is it ok to affix the forward part (in
front of the aileron hinge) and then split the rear and install the
reinforcing section after the ailerons are fitted and trimmed for flight
?? That way the trailing edge is perfectly trimmed with the aileron ???
Boy it is great having this resource !!!!! Kuddos to Matt.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184304#184304
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
I haven't been following this thread very closely, so I don't know
what all has been said so far, but you can twist the leading edge up
or down a little bit to raise or lower the trailing edge to line up
with the aileron. This, of course, has to be done before drilling all
of the holes. You can drill a couple to hold it in place with clecos
to see if it is right, then move it a little and drill others until it
is right, then you will need to reenforce the holes that were off
before finishing the wing. We now use the hinge method of
installation, which still uses the same technique for fitting it in
the first place. I very much prefer using the hinge because it not
only looks much better, IMHO, but it can make the tip much easier to
take off and put back on during an inspection. We still use a few
screws up in the front where a standard hinge can't handle the curve
very well.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On May 22, 2008, at 1:23 AM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> >
>
> I have no experience with splitting the trailing edge and attempting
> re-alignemnt. I think I read that Tim O. tried this and had to
> abandon
> a tip in favour of a new one, so I did not even try. I think I have
> also seen a post (from Jesse) about forming ('twisting?' the nose of
> the
> LE to raise/lower the aft edge. There is a bit in the archives on
> this.
> I would suggest the following order:
>
> 1. make certain the flap and aileron are on the wing and in the
> trail position (flap fully up)
> 2. align the trailing edge with aileron/flap (use tape to attach
> the tip to the wing)
> 3. drill the tip to the fuse
> 4. attach the tip.
> 5. Check the length of the tip - if the tip is too long, remove it
> and apply some epoxy to beef up the inside of the TE in case you
> need to
> remove the epoxy at the the existing TE join. From what I can tell,
> you
> really don't want to separate the trailing edge.
> 6. trim the tip and shape as required.
>
> YMMV, but this is what I would do if I had to do it again.
>
> Hope this helps
> Ron
> 187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Thursday, 22 May 2008 2:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple
> efficiency
>
>
> Very interesting and informative. It seems that the wing tips only
> affix
> to the aluminum part ONE WAY - tight. But the trailing 8-10" seems
> to be
> the area in question - is that correct ?
>
>> From what I can extrapolate is it ok to affix the forward part (in
> front of the aileron hinge) and then split the rear and install the
> reinforcing section after the ailerons are fitted and trimmed for
> flight
> ?? That way the trailing edge is perfectly trimmed with the
> aileron ???
>
> Boy it is great having this resource !!!!! Kuddos to Matt.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
> top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184304#184304
>
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
I agree fully with Ron. I would absolutely make sure the flaps
are mounted and all the way up, and that the ailerons are mounted
too. I don't believe it matters a bit if the wing is on the plane
though. Once the tip is in place, it can rotate around and cause
the trailing edge to take different positions...not much, mind you
but enough to make a difference. So what I did was to push the
tip in place and forward to expand the fiberglass out to meet
the metal everywhere, and had a helper drill and cleco. You want
that tip pushed in forward tight so the tip fills most of the gap
between the tip and skin......while maintaining the trailing
edges of everything all in alignment. What you then have is a
wingtip/aileron/flap combo that is all aligned in flight when
the flaps are at -3 degrees in the reflex position.
If the tips are too long, and I was doing it all over again, I'd
probably get it all drilled and fit in place and then trim the
tip back to the length I needed...but if it was going to trim
enough to split the upper and lower tip halves, I'd glass inside
the tip further before I started...just to maintain the same
relative positions. Of course, you'd still have to make the
upper and lower skins meet at a taper, so you couldn't let the
tip get too thick at the trailing edge. You could also
match them up and drill and bold thru the trailing edges to maintain
alignment. If they're over 3/4" too long though, it could get
painful.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> I have no experience with splitting the trailing edge and attempting
> re-alignemnt. I think I read that Tim O. tried this and had to abandon
> a tip in favour of a new one, so I did not even try. I think I have
> also seen a post (from Jesse) about forming ('twisting?' the nose of the
> LE to raise/lower the aft edge. There is a bit in the archives on this.
> I would suggest the following order:
>
> 1. make certain the flap and aileron are on the wing and in the
> trail position (flap fully up)
> 2. align the trailing edge with aileron/flap (use tape to attach
> the tip to the wing)
> 3. drill the tip to the fuse
> 4. attach the tip.
> 5. Check the length of the tip - if the tip is too long, remove it
> and apply some epoxy to beef up the inside of the TE in case you need to
> remove the epoxy at the the existing TE join. From what I can tell, you
> really don't want to separate the trailing edge.
> 6. trim the tip and shape as required.
>
> YMMV, but this is what I would do if I had to do it again.
>
> Hope this helps
> Ron
> 187
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Check out the article at
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply
I finished mine about a month ago and only did the 12v supply and left the other
voltages alone. RadioShack had the banana connectors like I wanted for the
plus and neg lead connectors and I used the switch on the back of the power supply
as my on/off switch.
The amperage available will be based on the size of the power supply you use.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184343#184343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com> |
HAVE A SAFE, FUN TRIP WAYNE. BE SURE TO GIVE US A TRIP REPORT WHEN U GET
BACK. A FEW OF US ARE PLANNING A WEST COAST TRIP IN SEPTEMBER. ANYONE WANT
TO JOIN THE GAGGLE?
DOUG PRESTON
N372RV
BHM
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 10:41 PM, Wayne Edgerton
wrote:
> I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two
> A&P's ask me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I
> didn't have a very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive a
> there were a couple of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he didn't
> know of any RV10 with a gascolator installed, but his post was nearly three
> years ago. Has anyone installed or considering installing a gascolator?
>
> I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a
> gascolator. The point they made with me is where does any accumulated water
> in the fuel go then.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
> Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Ok folks, here's a little more OSH camping info for you.
Today I spent a few hours getting things ready to make it
easier for you to get info and send payment stuff. (Which,
by the way, can be done anytime in the next month and it
won't be too late)
First, if you're not on the OSH list (also builders list),
start by getting on that:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html
When you submit the form, it gives me the general base info
that I use to fill in the builders list. It's a manual
process, so don't be surprised if it takes me a couple days.
Then, once you have access to the builders list, you can
view it here:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html
There you'll find more info that I'll update as we get closer
to OSH, and have OSH planning links for you to download info.
Then, if you're going to get a campsite, we've got a little
more and updated info for you, and I have a camping payment
page here:
http://www.myrv10.com/builderslist/CampingPayments.html
(login required)
There are a couple of new things and changes. First, you can
pay by check or by paypal. Doesn't matter to us which one you
use. Paypal does charge fees, and we did a little quick math
and found that the fees would run between $8.50 and $10.50,
depending on the date you start your campsite reservations on,
as it's based on the total you're sending. So, to make it
simple, I rounded it off to an even $10. Yeah, I know, Bob
said $7, but I don't want to see Bob come up short, and any
extra on that will end up going to the common campsite that
we're buying as a gathering place.
Now, if you pay by paypal, I also gave a couple options.
First, some builders have asked if they can throw a little
extra money our way, either for the group campsite, or just as
a personal "thanks". To meet that request, I have 2 different
payment buttons you can choose. One just pays us for camping,
simple and easy. The other is a "Donation" button that you can
use that will allow YOU to choose the total you send. The
only thing I ask is that if you send any extra, let me know
how you want it appropriated. We probably 1/2 funded the
common site based on overpayments from our group dinners last
year. I'm sure this year we'll have the same situation and
Bob holds on to that extra to use the next year on our group
site. But, if you want to throw anything into that site fund,
just specify it. Otherwise, if you're one of those folks who
just wants to say thanks, it's going to go towards some 100LL
for N442PM, N204GS, and N104CD. :)
To see the campsite reservations so far, here's a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/2008_Campsites.html
Again, if you get a campsite, BE SURE to include your EAA number
somewhere.
So we're finally ready to get those plans in place and be
organized. I'll try to keep up on the stuff as fast as I can.
Oh, and anytime you want to update your info, just fill in the
form at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html and I'll just get it
all updated for you. If you forgot your password, make sure
to make a note in the comments area and I'll send it.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Payment can be made by check ($260) mailed to my home address:
>
> Bob Condrey
>
> 706 South Fillmore Circle
>
> Papillion, NE 68046
>
>
>
> Or via PayPal ($267) using my email address:
>
> bob.condrey (at) baesystems.com
>
>
>
> Please make sure you register on Tims website so that weve got your
> info. Make sure that whatever method of payment you use that you
> include your name, email address and EAA member number. I will drop you
> a note via email to let you know that Ive received it.
>
>
>
> Feel free to email me direct or, if youre registered at at
> http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html, give me a call if you have any questions
> at the cell phone number listed for me.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Thank you everyone for your quick and useful answers. It seems like an
industrious type can cobble one together for under $40.00. I opted for
the:
Samlex SEC1235M
30A unit for $129.95
http://www.hamradio.com/web/newcat/hrocat6.pdf
That unit includes a display meter for voltage/current. This is a lot
better choice than the one from ACS for $450+
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | west coast fly out |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Please add 728DD to the list-KSCK-thanks Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
What is the "double layer of masking tape method"? I intend to cut the
doors down to about 1/16" inside the canopy edge and flox it back up.
I'm trying to figure out a good way to scribe a line on the canopy,
then trace it back on the door for cutting.
Double layer of masking tape sounds good.
Bill "futzing with the door" Watson
jim berry wrote:
>
> John,
>
> I did what you are considering, and really like the results. I did not like the
fragility of a 45 degree edge on the doors, and found the inconsistent rolled
edge on the canopy impossible to trim to. So I squared off the door edges using
the double layer of masking tape method to trim the door edges about 1/16
inch inside the canopy edge. When fitting the doors I focused on getting the
bottom edge of each door properly aligned with the fuselage skin, as this was
an area I did not want to use flox or micro. There were spots where the door side
edges stood proud of the canopy edge, but that was OK because I knew that
some of the window edges were going to be proud of the canopy also. Once the windows
were installed, the canopy surface was built up with a flox/micro mix to
match the window and door surface and a new canopy edge was created to match
the squared off door edge. The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant
matching edge for the canopy door opening.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB(reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Use two inch or wider if needed, masking tape applied right at the edge of the
opening. Place the door in the opening in it's correct position and apply another
layer of tape lined up with the outside edge of the tape underneath. The tape
on top gives you line to cut the door to. Works good on the cowl too.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 5:52:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door fit
What is the "double layer of masking tape method"? I intend to cut the
doors down to about 1/16" inside the canopy edge and flox it back up.
I'm trying to figure out a good way to scribe a line on the canopy,
then trace it back on the door for cutting.
Double layer of masking tape sounds good.
Bill "futzing with the door" Watson
jim berry wrote:
>
> John,
>
> I did what you are considering, and really like the results. I did not like the
fragility of a 45 degree edge on the doors, and found the inconsistent rolled
edge on the canopy impossible to trim to. So I squared off the door edges using
the double layer of masking tape method to trim the door edges about 1/16
inch inside the canopy edge. When fitting the doors I focused on getting the
bottom edge of each door properly aligned with the fuselage skin, as this was
an area I did not want to use flox or micro. There were spots where the door side
edges stood proud of the canopy edge, but that was OK because I knew that
some of the window edges were going to be proud of the canopy also. Once the windows
were installed, the canopy surface was built up with a flox/micro mix to
match the window and door surface and a new canopy edge was created to match
the squared off door edge. The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant
matching edge for the canopy door opening.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB(reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Bill,
See my Jan. 24, 2008 post "Trimming the cowling" in the archives. The same method
works nicely for the doors. If you plan on creating a new edge for the opening,
I would suggest placing the inner edge of the first tape where you want the
new edge to be. If you place the first tape at the edge of the existing opening
you will have to trim your door edge a second time. My door gap is the thickness
of 3 layers of duct tape(about 0.020").Email me off list if you have questions.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB(reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184466#184466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Lady's and gentleman, check this MSB from ECI before you fly! I think
I'm going to be sick!
Sam
http://www.eci2fly.com/pdf/08-1.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ECI MSD No.08-1 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Ouch - I hate to see stuff like this go down. I got my butt bit on the Lycoming
crankshaft recall on my Cessna 182 - Cost me $8-10K. The general trend now seems
to be for the big guys to put the burden on the owner operator.
I bought a Mattituck Red/gold Engine from the guys in New York.
It is still sitting in the box. These engines are made from Lycoming parts unless
otherwise specified. I agonized and paid a lot of bucks extra as opposed to
getting an overhauled engine. It is obviously no guarantee of not getting a S/B
from hell like this, but it definitely increases the comfort zone. They always
have a deal at OSH with free freight. For those sitting on the fence, you
might want to consider talking with Mahlon at OSH.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184533#184533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ECI MSD No.08-1 |
Makes me glad I bought a new certified Lycoming from Vans back when they
were cheaper. Even then I noticed an anomaly in the oil sump casting and
Lycoming agreed to replace the sump. They sent a guy with parts and tools to
replace it in my garage; It was already mounted to the airframe; I assisted
and we had the sump changed in about three hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 9:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: ECI MSD No.08-1
Ouch - I hate to see stuff like this go down. I got my butt bit on the
Lycoming crankshaft recall on my Cessna 182 - Cost me $8-10K. The general
trend now seems to be for the big guys to put the burden on the owner
operator.
I bought a Mattituck Red/gold Engine from the guys in New York.
It is still sitting in the box. These engines are made from Lycoming parts
unless otherwise specified. I agonized and paid a lot of bucks extra as
opposed to getting an overhauled engine. It is obviously no guarantee of not
getting a S/B from hell like this, but it definitely increases the comfort
zone. They always have a deal at OSH with free freight. For those sitting on
the fence, you might want to consider talking with Mahlon at OSH.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184533#184533
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to Tell if You have ECI/Superior Cylinders |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
I've had a few inquiries about whether or not customers' engines may be
affected by the proposed Superior/ECI service bulletins. Some of you
may not know which types of cylinders were used on your engine. If your
engine builder provided you with a detailed parts list, you should be
able to distinguish which manufacturer made your cylinders by reviewing
the nomenclature. ECI Lycoming replacement cylinders have an AEL in
front of them, and Superior Lycoming replacement cylinders have an SL.
If you have purchased a kit engine from BPE, only Lycoming OEM cylinders
were used.
If your engine builder did not provide you a detailed parts list, you
can easily identify which cylinders you have by looking at the rocker
box boss above the exhaust port for the AEL, SL or Millenium insignia.
Hope this information is helpful to at least some of you!
Everyone have a safe and enjoyable holiday weekend!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VA-193 Clear Lens Wing tip fitting - Ouch |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Cautionary note on the VA-193 wing tip lens.
I fitted my first piece the wrong way..........
I think that the big cut comes off what is the bottom (edge) of the half moon as
received. I erred on my first wing tip and it is ruined.
Vans charges $60 for a replacement so be careful
My second one - cut properly fitted very nice. and came out fine
P.S. - if anyone has a right wing lens that they have as a result of messing up
only on the left wing lens - I will buy it ....
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184611#184611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Hey Jesse, how many RV-10's are you up to now? Must be at least 5 or 6. J
ust curious.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevators
In my experience it is not at all uncommon to have the horns not exactly li
ned up. I think it's just an issue of the welds and lack of accuracy there
. I have seen some that line up almost perfectly and some that are off by
as much as 10 degrees, probably. Is this what you are referring to?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Mike,
Ours were off by at LEAST that much. And after obsessing over it way too much,
another builder told us, "you know, it's an airplane, not a Swiss watch" ...
and we moved on.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184621#184621
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
If you are referring to the elevator counter weight arms being out of
alignment when the elevator trailing edges are lined up, yes, I had the
same issue. I concluded you just have live with it. I'd suggest not
deciding to line up the counterweights instead of the trailing edges
(obviously) or even trying to split the difference (appealing but
probably bad).
My thinking is that the the counterweight arms end up not being built
exactly the same, perhaps one of the few spots where the CNC- match hole
fabrication fails. Between the fluting and other machinations required
to get the assembly together in the first place, I'm thinking that I may
have pushed and pulled it together unevenly and cemented in some
misalignment when match drilling and power squeezing. I'm pretty sure
that given that experience, I could get both of them together more
'evenly' next time.
I'll be checking arm alignments out at Osh this year...
Oh, mine is about 3/16" too. I've moved on.
Bill "those doors may not be so bad" Watson
Durham
40605
Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote:
>
> Please help. I've attached the elevators to the horiz stab and
> adjusted to have a roughly even gap at the trailing edge of the stab.
> Height wise though there is a 3/16" difference between the left and
> right elevator horns. Anyone else have this issue? Is there a fix or
> is this a common misalignment? Just drill away and live with the
> difference?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yaw damper (was Rudder Trim - Spring Bias) |
Not to resurect the old thread, but has anyone considered, or known of
an available yaw damper system that would work on an RV-10? Perhaps it
isn't needed, but it seems to me that folks with airsickness tendency
are most sensitive to yaw.
On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 9:05 AM, Sam wrote:
> Let's see the pic!
>
> Bill DeRouchey wrote:
>
> Albert-
> That is a very clean and foolproof installation.
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB, flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Baffles - Paint/Alodine ? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Taking a look at my engine baffles and the potential heat that the baffling endues,
I am curious to see what others are doing........
I have some 2-part epoxy, but I am worried about discoloration and odor especially
during initial flight testing.
Alodine seems to be a good solution (no pun intended) as it should be odorless
when hot. There was a short post last Sept. but an update would be appreciated
!
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184747#184747
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Robin,
Take it from an old electronics guy (short on airplane experience, but lots
of automotive) the statement that the battery charger output is not
"conditioned" is correct. -- But, the battery itself acts as a very good
filter for the spikes and sags from the charger. the likelihood of damaging
your avionics is very small. I would not hesitate to operate it that way.
Jack & Cecilia Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 3:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit
I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger
is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made
in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of
the avionics suite.
Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary
battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually provide
"safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
the ground?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 425 Hours
RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles - Paint/Alodine ? |
| From: | "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I painted the baffles on my Pitts 25 years ago with Imron and they still look good
except for some minor discoloration next to the cylinder heads. Always had
to be careful about scratching them though.
A local shop anodized all the baffles for my -10 for $75. Really looks nice, and
I suspect they will be much more durable than paint.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB(reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184761#184761
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Rowe <gailmrowe(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles - Paint/Alodine ? |
I had my baffles powder coated by a local outfit. If I remember
correctly there were 9 pieces. Was able to match the "goldish" color
of the engine that came from Mattituck. Not yet flying (but getting
close) so I don't know how it will stand up to the heat but the
powder coaters assured me that their paint was "good" to 500 degrees.
We will see. Jay Rowe 40301 (finishing the wiring and interior).
On May 25, 2008, at 11:38 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> Taking a look at my engine baffles and the potential heat that the
> baffling endues, I am curious to see what others are doing........
>
> I have some 2-part epoxy, but I am worried about discoloration and
> odor especially during initial flight testing.
>
> Alodine seems to be a good solution (no pun intended) as it should
> be odorless when hot. There was a short post last Sept. but an
> update would be appreciated !
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184747#184747
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Baffles - Paint/Alodine ? |
I used Imron on my RV-8A. 400 hrs and it still looks like it was just
painted. I'll probably use PPG Concept (single stage) on the RV-10 as I
have found it to be an easier product to use.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Baffles - Paint/Alodine ?
Taking a look at my engine baffles and the potential heat that the baffling
endues, I am curious to see what others are doing........
I have some 2-part epoxy, but I am worried about discoloration and odor
especially during initial flight testing.
Alodine seems to be a good solution (no pun intended) as it should be
odorless when hot. There was a short post last Sept. but an update would be
appreciated !
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184747#184747
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Peddle Position |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
One other question along this line. Is the forward position (closer to firewall)
position of the rudder bracket for taller people or shorter?
I'm learning not to assume the obvious. For example, having the rudder bracket
aft would put the pilot's body and head further back in the cockpit and thus
more headroom for the taller person.
Or is it the obvious, shorter people set rudder bracket in rearmost positon.
I'm 5'10" and will probably be ok with either and prefer to keep my C.G. forward.
However, my wife is 5' 4" and plans to fly the plane also.
Thanks,
Tom H.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184798#184798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Doble (Home Office)" <mikedoble(at)wi.rr.com> |
Thanks Dave. I drilled them today. Here=92s what happened. The aft
horn by
chance (per plans, drill the aft one first) was the long one. Ugh!!!
Fortunately, the horns were only about 3/16=94 different in length so I
still
have 1/8=94 in edge distance on the short one. I wish I had seen your
post
earlier today. I would have drilled the short one into the long one.
Disappointing but not the end of the world. It=92ll work. I checked my
trusty Aircraft Handbook and the edge distance needs to be =BD or more
of the
fastener diameter.
I=92ll have to keep an eye on it. As far as one being aft of the other,
it
was only by about 1/16th. So I could have drilled the forward one and I
would have a much better edge distance for the hole. Oh well. When I
build
my second or third RV it=92ll be more like a Swiss watch=85.Those Saint
RV=92s
must be pretty nice!
Thanks for the tip. This should really be archived. I didn=92t search,
maybe
it is.
Mike (It really isn=92t a Swiss watch) Doble
Builder 40691
Working on my tail.....but almost done!!! Yippeeee
Waukesha, Wisconsin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevators
I couldn't remember the gotcha but now I do. My horns where different
lengths as well.
When looking at the horns from behind, make sure to measure and drill
from
the shorter side into the longer side. I got lucky with this but I know
at
least one other builder had a problem here. If you measure and drill
from
the longer side, you may not have sufficient material under the hole on
the
short side.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevators
Mike,
There is a "Gotcha" at this point. I am out of town in Door County,
but I
can come by and take a look when I get back if you like. The horns may
be
misaligned, but you have to be careful how you drill them. Check the
archives on this.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Doble (Home Office) <mailto:mikedoble(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 3:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevators
Please help. I=92ve attached the elevators to the horiz stab and
adjusted to
have a roughly even gap at the trailing edge of the stab. Height wise
though there is a 3/16=94 difference between the left and right elevator
horns. Anyone else have this issue? Is there a fix or is this a common
misalignment? Just drill away and live with the difference?
Thanks in advance.
Mike Doble
Builder 40691
Working on my tail.....
Waukesha, Wisconsin
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Jack,
That was my thinking exactly however a $130.00 power supply was
cheap insurance against the potential claims that I voided any
manufacturer warranty. The panel was too expensive & I am too close to
first flight to get stuck in a pissing match with a manufacturer where I
am the one with the most to lose if something electronic were
nonfunctional regardless of the cause. It's really about all the $ tied
up in the panel at this point.
Thanks for your note,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
For those who have or are serving and especially those who have been injured
or killed, please accept my thanks for your service. Although I am a
Canadian, I appreciate the service of all in the coalition fighting in Iraq
and Afghanistan. Memorial Day has given more than a few outside of America
pause for thought about the cost of Freedom.
Lest we forget..
..Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
for feedback.
Sam Marlow
#40157
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going on 4
years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still work
just find.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
for feedback.
Sam Marlow
#40157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Very much appreciated!
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184918#184918
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Who is Bruce?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going on 4
years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still work
just find.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
for feedback.
Sam Marlow
#40157
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
http://www.aircraftcovers.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 4:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
Who is Bruce?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going on 4
years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still work
just find.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
for feedback.
Sam Marlow
#40157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks Les!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184943#184943
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
Thanks Les.
Marcus
USAF
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Memorial Day
Hi
For those who have or are serving and especially those who have been injured
or killed, please accept my thanks for your service. Although I am a
Canadian, I appreciate the service of all in the coalition fighting in Iraq
and Afghanistan. Memorial Day has given more than a few outside of America
pause for thought about the cost of Freedom.
Lest we forget..
..Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Which color do you have, and would you change colors if you had to do it
again?
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going on 4
> years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still work
> just find.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
>
>
> Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
> process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
> for feedback.
> Sam Marlow
> #40157
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
| From: | John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Thanks Les
USAF C-5 Filight Engineer Retired
Very soon to be RV-10 builder planning trip to Vans to pick up
Tail kit. Work tables half way done.
On Mon 26/05/08 8:48 AM , Les Kearney kearney(at)shaw.ca sent:
st1:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
Hi
For those who have or are serving and especially those who have been
injured or killed, please accept my thanks for your service. Although
I am a Canadian, I appreciate the service of all in the coalition
fighting in Iraq and Afghanistan. Memorial Day has given more than a
few outside of America pause for thought about the cost of Freedom.
Lest we forget.
..Les
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [1]
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [3]
Links:
------
[1] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST
[2] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/
[3] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Bruce will use trim colors to match your paint. My trim is red and blue.
Total trim space is less than a couple square feet, so it's not really a
large area. Most of the cover is a natural tan color. He has good pictures
on his web site. It's been on the ramp for almost four years, so I'm not
disappointed that the colors are now just starting to fade. I am happy with
the purchase.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
Which color do you have, and would you change colors if you had to do it
again?
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going on 4
> years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still work
> just find.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
>
>
> Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
> process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm looking
> for feedback.
> Sam Marlow
> #40157
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
Sam,
I purchased my cabin cover and cowl plugs from Bruce's Custom Covers and
I am very happy with the product. They put my N number on the cover and
cowl plugs.
They do very high quality work IMHO.
http://www.aircraftcovers.com/index.html
Wayne Edgerton 40336
N602WT
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Cabin Cover
Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm
looking
for feedback.
Sam Marlow
#40157
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Thanks for the info, very helpful.
Has anyone bought the Van's cover for the RV10, it's a lot less expensive?
Sam Marlow wrote:
>
> Which color do you have, and would you change colors if you had to do
> it again?
>
>
> Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> I have Bruce's Covers on my Cherokee. They've been on the ramp going
>> on 4
>> years now. The colors just started fading this year, but they still
>> work
>> just find.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:36 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
>>
>>
>> Has anyone purchased a cabin cover for their aircraft. I'm in the
>> process of searching for a cabin cover, and cowl plugs, and I'm
>> looking for feedback.
>> Sam Marlow
>> #40157
>>
>>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
For those who just want a lightweight cover for traveling,
not one for leaving it tied down for weeks and months,
Abby at Flightline Interiors http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
has a good lightweight travel cover that fits in a small bag.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sam Marlow wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info, very helpful.
> Has anyone bought the Van's cover for the RV10, it's a lot less expensive?
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>
>> Which color do you have, and would you change colors if you had to do
>> it again?
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
Les, I served and have lost some members of my Army flight class
throughout the years while they served our country defending it. I
appreciate your thoughts and wish others wouldn't simply take the cost
of freedom for granted. It was earned, not given.. but some simply will
never understand that.
Thanks!
Pascal
From: Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 8:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Memorial Day
Hi
For those who have or are serving and especially those who have been
injured or killed, please accept my thanks for your service. Although I
am a Canadian, I appreciate the service of all in the coalition fighting
in Iraq and Afghanistan. Memorial Day has given more than a few outside
of America pause for thought about the cost of Freedom.
Lest we forget..
..Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks Les, thoughts are appreciated.
Bob (former USAF)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185011#185011
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Any tricks to re-mount the seat-track pins after installing the seats?
I don't see how I'm going to be able to get my hand or a ratchet down in
there between seat and wall . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I installed the bolt head in the tight area and the washer and nut is then
under the bottom cushion. Simply remove the Velcro on the bottom cushion a
nd use an open end wrench in the tight area on the bolt head and then a rat
chet on the nut end.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat track pin
Any tricks to re-mount the seat-track pins after installing the seats? I d
on't see how I'm going to be able to get my hand or a ratchet down in there
between seat and wall . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Arrrghhh, missed this thread by about 20 minutes... drilled my elevator horns by
the plans and screwed up... drilled the longer horn into the shorter one, just
like Mike described:(
Called Van's, they told me that it will hold up as it is. I have 3/16 of steel
from the hole to the edge of the metal. They said for peace of mind I could weld
it and redrill.
Tim, If you could add this on your tips page it may save someone from doing the
same thing.
There goes my swiss watch airplane... has anyone tried opening up the elevators
and replacing the horns with new ones?
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185030#185030
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
Cleaveland Tool also sells a light cover. http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.co
m/prodinfo.asp?number=RVCC10
I have a sample of the fabric. Interesting stuff, it looks like a light wei
ght tent material. It's slick enough dirt and grit shouldn't get imbedded i
n it (this is what kills windows.) Water does not penetrate it but appears
to be very breathable. Also asked about long term storage outside and was t
old they have customers using the covers on RV stored outside for several y
ears and these customers are happy with the covers. This is the cover I'm p
lanning on starting with as my hanger is covered but open.
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
> Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 13:35:44 -0400> From: sam(at)fr8dog.net> To: rv10-lis
t(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover> > --> RV10-List message p
osted by: Sam Marlow > > Has anyone purchased a cabin cover
for their aircraft. I'm in the > process of searching for a cabin cover, a
========================> _
=====================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety.
http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_
Refresh_family_safety_052008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I have both Bruce's cover and Abby' cover and I use Abby's cover 95% of the time.
Since I always keep my plane hangered I typically use a cover for overnighters.
Bruce's cover is heavy and very bulky but is much better if you were going to leave
your plane outside.
If it is just the two of us and I have plenty of room and useful load, I take Bruces.
But most of the time room is an issue and Abby's cover is so light and
easy that I always have it in the plane.
So if your mission is just overnight or weekends, Abby's may be the better way
to go.
It has a reflective (silver) outside to keep the cabin cool.
I also have Bruce's cowl plugs and they work great. You can get them customized
with your N-number as well.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 7:34:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover
For those who just want a lightweight cover for traveling,
not one for leaving it tied down for weeks and months,
Abby at Flightline Interiors http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
has a good lightweight travel cover that fits in a small bag.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sam Marlow wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info, very helpful.
> Has anyone bought the Van's cover for the RV10, it's a lot less expensive?
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>
>> Which color do you have, and would you change colors if you had to do
>> it again?
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Remember that fact when everyone votes in November. It was an honor to
serve this country in uniform. Military Command Leadership is no light
responsibility.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Memorial Day
Les, I served and have lost some members of my Army flight class
throughout the years while they served our country defending it. I
appreciate your thoughts and wish others wouldn't simply take the cost
of freedom for granted. It was earned, not given.. but some simply will
never understand that.
Thanks!
Pascal
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 8:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Memorial Day
Hi
For those who have or are serving and especially those who have been
injured or killed, please accept my thanks for your service. Although I
am a Canadian, I appreciate the service of all in the coalition fighting
in Iraq and Afghanistan. Memorial Day has given more than a few outside
of America pause for thought about the cost of Freedom.
Lest we forget....
..Les
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Following the instructions that tells one to find the most aft (11-3) and
drill a 3/16th hole 3/8 x 1/2 from the edges is not a screw up,. I did per
the plans and aligned everything fine. I have a 3/16 span from the hole to
the edge and it will be just fine in regards to strength- IMO. I'm not
worried and I assure you many before us followed the instructions as well
and they are doing just fine.
certainly make a change to the plans as a Gotcha and drill another way, no
harm but in my book I'll stick to the plans and know that Van's has this as
an acceptable building standard.
BTW- wait until you get to the fusellage, there will be 70% staring at the
plans looking ahead;10% trying to figure out if you're doing it right and
10% doing it.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 8:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevators
>
> Arrrghhh, missed this thread by about 20 minutes... drilled my elevator
> horns by the plans and screwed up... drilled the longer horn into the
> shorter one, just like Mike described:(
>
> Called Van's, they told me that it will hold up as it is. I have 3/16 of
> steel from the hole to the edge of the metal. They said for peace of mind
> I could weld it and redrill.
>
> Tim, If you could add this on your tips page it may save someone from
> doing the same thing.
>
> There goes my swiss watch airplane... has anyone tried opening up the
> elevators and replacing the horns with new ones?
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185030#185030
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat track pin |
Two tips on the Seat track pins................#1 Put nut plates on t
he bracket and then ratchet the bolts in from the seat out. #2 Weld o
n a 2 1/2" extension to the T handle so it is easier to grap. Otherwise
you will be FISHING your hand deep down along the outer seat to find th
e T handle whne adjusting your seat position.
Dean
805HL 200 hours
____________________________________________________________
Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iiflKGImFVKhpL0OGR8ssQj
SNEQGnRi9lUxYnyky8OvowZI6o/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ECI MSD No.08-1 |
Just a note. I talked to ECI This morning. I had a engine OVH by Western Skyways
and the only time on the engine is the test cell time. I do not plan on flying
with these cyl since they have had 30+ failures. Not that many They say. I
was told for $3,000 I could get a new set for my engine. This with only 1.5 hrs.
I still have to take it to another test cell and run before I would put back
on my RV10.
I've used Titan before and got them for my customers and thats why I got them
this time but I tell you this really stinks.
Waiting on Western Skyways to call me back.
Patrick Thyssen
Pulling engine off
Sam wrote:
Lady's and gentleman, check this MSB from ECI before you fly! I think
I'm going to be sick!
Sam
http://www.eci2fly.com/pdf/08-1.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Well, I did about the same. To make it worse, the hole as drilled
resulted in the trailing edges being misaligned.
I ended up working with my Tech Counselor to weld over one hole, then
adding a aluminum block between the two horns. I was able to exactly
line up the elevators using the block. The block holds the alignment.
Then re-drilling the 2nd hole for the push rod end. My TC said that was
how it is done on the Pitts.
I think there are a number of ways to fix this including just going with
it the way it is as Vans recommends. But there's just something about
it involving the elevator...
I didn't fully document it but attached is a pic of the block which fits
between the two horns and is attached with 3 AN3 bolts.
Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Arrrghhh, missed this thread by about 20 minutes... drilled my elevator horns
by the plans and screwed up... drilled the longer horn into the shorter one,
just like Mike described:(
>
> Called Van's, they told me that it will hold up as it is. I have 3/16 of steel
from the hole to the edge of the metal. They said for peace of mind I could
weld it and redrill.
>
> Tim, If you could add this on your tips page it may save someone from doing the
same thing.
>
> There goes my swiss watch airplane... has anyone tried opening up the elevators
and replacing the horns with new ones?
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185030#185030
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Here are some pictures to illustrate the problem.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185144#185144
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_elevator_horn_199.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/left_elevator_horn_157.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/elevators_topview_565.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Looks like mine and looks like you did a nice job too!. I really don't think
one need to worry too much as I figure the bolt will be on tight plus there
is the aft horn as well. Structurally, being Van's wasn't concerned, I trust
it should be fine.
Best of success reaching your comfort decision
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevators
>
> Here are some pictures to illustrate the problem.
>
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185144#185144
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_elevator_horn_199.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/left_elevator_horn_157.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/elevators_topview_565.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Rob;
Any updates on the "beta testing" prop? I know "so" isn't here yet but I
was hoping the "another week" had
Thanks!
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up . By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week
or so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface,
and weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of
them are only working on software.
Rob Hickman
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites
at AOL Food.
R0lGODlhEwATAOZ/AOS6S+zEWdOzO/zmSvTPOe67KPbPN/nVO/LVhf/jR9ytK/zpTvv16PPbnuGs
J9u8SvLEMO7CM/7eQtyjNf3yVtnElcmhLdSlKOq0JP3wV9CgKP/kSLGSSfzvVvnaQrKUUPviR+nT
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0XXtHzEabDCZ4kBDDKh2B1VIcuLDS0aBAAA7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Rob;
Any updates on the "beta testing" prop? I know "so" isn't here yet but I
was hoping the "another week" had
Thanks!
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up. By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week
or so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface,
and weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of
them are only working on software.
Rob Hickman
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites
at AOL Food.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
It's amazing how far these RV's have come, from the 4 to the 10. Just
amazing. That Cessna, what, a 140? Not bad either. And, BTW, I think Les
Kearney, who attended the dinner, lives at least 1,000 plus miles distant.
Get on over here in the Fall, Pascal. No excuses.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Rob;
Any updates on the "beta testing" prop? I know "so" isn't here yet but I was
hoping the "another week" had
Thanks!
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up. By the way,
thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the composite
prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's expanded
capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week or
so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface, and
weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of them are
only working on software.
Rob Hickman
_____
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at
AOL Food <http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Greg's seat adjustment levers are very, very nice and I'd recommend them to
every one but make it even harder to install the pin block. BUT, if you use
nut plates instead of lock nuts it's easy to install the bolts. Now if I
could just find a way to make the seat back lock more user friendly...
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
David Maib
The plans call for the pin to be on the outside. I think they might say
somewhere that you can put them on the inside if you desire, but that does
not look like the optimal place to me.
BTW, I just installed Greg Hale's seat adjustment levers and am really
pleased with them. Nice workmanship and an easy install that makes a very
nice improvement over the Van's knuckle scrapers. You can see them at Greg's
web site. http://www.nwacaptain.com/
David Maib
40559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Actually I will, Late July early August..
P
From: John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
It's amazing how far these RV's have come, from the 4 to the 10. Just
amazing. That Cessna, what, a 140? Not bad either. And, BTW, I think
Les Kearney, who attended the dinner, lives at least 1,000 plus miles
distant. Get on over here in the Fall, Pascal. No excuses.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Rob;
Any updates on the "beta testing" prop? I know "so" isn't here yet but
I was hoping the "another week" had
Thanks!
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up. By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week
or so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface,
and weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of
them are only working on software.
Rob Hickman
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Actually, what am I thinking that's OSH, Maybe late August early
September.
From: pascal
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Actually I will, Late July early August..
P
From: John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
It's amazing how far these RV's have come, from the 4 to the 10. Just
amazing. That Cessna, what, a 140? Not bad either. And, BTW, I think
Les Kearney, who attended the dinner, lives at least 1,000 plus miles
distant. Get on over here in the Fall, Pascal. No excuses.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Rob;
Any updates on the "beta testing" prop? I know "so" isn't here yet but
I was hoping the "another week" had
Thanks!
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:14:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pascal(at)rv10builder.net writes:
Haha, gone to a dinner 1000 miles away? .. you crack me up. By the
way, thanks for sponsoring it.
Any performance difference noticed? climb, cruise, etc.. with the
composite prop?
Any updates (unofficially) on the DECK and future plans for it's
expanded capabilities?
Thanks!
I am still gathering data on the prop, should have it in another week
or so. I am currently flying the flight director, autopilot interface,
and weather. We currently have six full time engineers and four of
them are only working on software.
Rob Hickman
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | Powder Coating at home |
Hello -10 listers -
I thought that the Powder Coat system that I use at home was wider known...
perhaps not so I will throw this out to the group. Go to: www.Eastwoodco.
com
I have the HOTCOAT Deluxe system. It works great. You can powder coat in
mamma's kitchen at 400-425 degrees. I have used the system on dozens of li
ttle parts, hinges, home-made antenna mounts...and yes....I am planning to
powder coat my baffles.
Some observations, tricks and tips from my experience:
First, take a cardboard box... run a coat hanger through it several inches
from the top. This will be used for the negative/ground alligator clip. T
he clip goes on the outside of the box so it doesn't get covered with powde
r. When you are done, you can take the overspray out of the box and put b
ack in the bottle. Make hooks to hang parts out of safety wire for small i
tems, and a cut up coat hanger for heavier items. Just make sure you have
good conductivity between the hanging wire (negative contact) and the parts
.
Second, get some of the 14" long forceps from one of the vendors at Osh thi
s year. These are great for transferring from the shop to the kitchen oven
, and back when the parts are still hot.
Third, the Eastwood powders are excellent. I love them. The single stage
chrome is really just a shiny silver, and not really chrome like in my opin
ion. For my rocker box covers, we baked them in silver, then went over the
m with Translucent Blue. They look spiffy! Although I may change my plane
colors since so many silver and blue -10s are now flying.
I found that Harbor Freight had white powder for $5.50. so I bought some t
o try. It seems to be just fine. Their white is more of an off-white and
not quite as white as the Eastwood product. So for parts that will be buri
ed, not visible, etc. I use the cheaper stuff.
A local -9 builder was paying $7 per part to be powder coated, no matter ho
w small. He went through several hundred dollars in just one small batch o
f parts. I have paid for the system several times over.
Fourth - buy the silicone plug and tape kit - you will use the plugs and ta
pe for several things. I wrapped the threads of the tie down rings with ta
pe before I powder coated them.. it worked well.
Take a look...it's worth every penny!
Pete, #40100
Panel and other issues....
90% done, 90% to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Thanks for putting me at ease. I was going to buy new horns and replace them. I'll
sleep on it and decide later. For now i'm going to hook it all up.
The rivets in the pushrod are steel, MSP-42.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185216#185216
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | OT: Interesting Airventure story |
This is the response I got from EAA.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Knapinski [mailto:dknapinski(at)eaa.org] On Behalf Of Communications
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 7:23 AM
Cc: dennis(at)aogpaint.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT: Interesting Airventure story
David:
Thanks for your e-mail. There is a lot of information in the e-mail below
that is just plain incorrect. Let me go through it point-by-point, and feel
free to pass it back down the road from where you originally received it so
the RV-10 list isn't working off bad information:
1) Yes, as mentioned for the past couple of years, there is site
re-development planning underway. EAA Members (thousands of them),
Exhibitors, Pilots and others have been surveyed extensively over the past
three years about what they want improved on their convention site. The
first stage of the project will include improved transportation within the
site, additional showers and restroom facilities, improved food options,
Wi-Fi service, improved camping areas, and so forth.
2) The city of Oshkosh is NOT talking about abandoning their convention
center. That's never been part of the discussion. Whoever claims otherwise
is hearing only part of the story. This proposed facility is quite different
that the downtown convention center.
3) Demands from exhibitors have been for larger spaces and more indoor
spaces. EAA members and exhibitors have been asking for better
climate-controlled areas as well. To those of us who remember the old
flight line exhibit buildings, the current exhibit hangars are a world
better, but those who don't recall those tell us that they want more.
4) Tom Poberezny has shared site re-development information in previous
communications with EAA members and is doing so again in the June issue of
Sport Aviation. There will also be more information coming during this
year's AirVenture fly-in and additional member input is always welcomed.
5) You're right in that Oshkosh can use additional year-round facilities,
and in development of the site there is an opportunity to create an area
that would be available for off-season, year-round use. Some of this is
done already well before and after the fly-in each year. This brings in
revenue that allows EAA to maintain and improve the entire grounds without
pinging the member for funding.
6) Let me make this point abundantly clear -- MEMBER DUES ARE NOT BEING
USED FOR THIS PROJECT. That is why this is a phased-in, 10-year plan, so it
can be properly financed as it goes along. If there is not an overall plan
for the future, then the redevelopment will be haphazard at best. It is
also why the first stages of the project focus directly on member and
visitor amenities, not buildings. Exhibitor revenue, sponsorships and other
non-dues revenue are being used for this project.
7) What we're hearing from EAA members is a desire for improved amenities
throughout their convention site, and this is a plan to meet those needs
today and a decade down the road WITHOUT putting the costs on the members.
It is a plan, however, driven by the comments we've received from members
and others over the past several years who tell us to improve the site while
keeping the culture of the event.
I hope this clarifies a few things. I hope your source of the information
feels free to ask any questions that may arise. Thanks again for the
e-mail.
Best regards,
Dick Knapinski
EAA OSH
920-426-6523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT: Interesting Airventure story |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Dave - thanks for the post.
I appreciate Dick acknowledging that the decision was based on extensive
surveys of members, exhibitors, pilots and others. As a member, pilot
and other I must have missed their marketing survey(s) several times -
Item 1). I will dig through all my junk mail and emails received over
the last three years in an attempt to find my error in filing such a
powerful survey. Maybe the power was with the exhibitors - Item 3)?
Short of pay toilets and private taxis "onsite" I conclude that my entry
fee is directed to offsetting the many privileges provided to Warbird
owners and to exhibitors. Don't get me wrong, free fuel, free smoke
oil, free oxygen, premium site location, free parking and free entry are
not bad for those who own and operate warbirds. I was also impressed
that owners of Exhibition Warbird aircraft can do their own
modifications and maintenance much like RV-10 owner/builders.
All in all, the EAA has done a remarkable job of growing the event,
building a pro-active lobby block to partner with the FAA and maximizing
the income(profit) stream. I will continue to buy the fuel enroute and
attend just to keep up on industry developments and to bask in the
hospitality of the residents of Oshkosh and the infrastructure
maintained by the hard working taxpaying inhabitants of Wisconsin during
each summer.
The AirVenture is a REAL money making machine. The product offering is
not bad either.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: FW: RV10-List: OT: Interesting Airventure story
This is the response I got from EAA.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Knapinski [mailto:dknapinski(at)eaa.org] On Behalf Of
Communications
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 7:23 AM
Cc: dennis(at)aogpaint.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT: Interesting Airventure story
David:
Thanks for your e-mail. There is a lot of information in the e-mail
below
that is just plain incorrect. Let me go through it point-by-point, and
feel
free to pass it back down the road from where you originally received it
so
the RV-10 list isn't working off bad information:
1) Yes, as mentioned for the past couple of years, there is site
re-development planning underway. EAA Members (thousands of them),
Exhibitors, Pilots and others have been surveyed extensively over the
past
three years about what they want improved on their convention site. The
first stage of the project will include improved transportation within
the
site, additional showers and restroom facilities, improved food options,
Wi-Fi service, improved camping areas, and so forth.
2) The city of Oshkosh is NOT talking about abandoning their convention
center. That's never been part of the discussion. Whoever claims
otherwise
is hearing only part of the story. This proposed facility is quite
different
that the downtown convention center.
3) Demands from exhibitors have been for larger spaces and more indoor
spaces. EAA members and exhibitors have been asking for better
climate-controlled areas as well. To those of us who remember the old
flight line exhibit buildings, the current exhibit hangars are a world
better, but those who don't recall those tell us that they want more.
4) Tom Poberezny has shared site re-development information in previous
communications with EAA members and is doing so again in the June issue
of
Sport Aviation. There will also be more information coming during this
year's AirVenture fly-in and additional member input is always welcomed.
5) You're right in that Oshkosh can use additional year-round
facilities,
and in development of the site there is an opportunity to create an area
that would be available for off-season, year-round use. Some of this is
done already well before and after the fly-in each year. This brings in
revenue that allows EAA to maintain and improve the entire grounds
without
pinging the member for funding.
6) Let me make this point abundantly clear -- MEMBER DUES ARE NOT BEING
USED FOR THIS PROJECT. That is why this is a phased-in, 10-year plan,
so it
can be properly financed as it goes along. If there is not an overall
plan
for the future, then the redevelopment will be haphazard at best. It is
also why the first stages of the project focus directly on member and
visitor amenities, not buildings. Exhibitor revenue, sponsorships and
other
non-dues revenue are being used for this project.
7) What we're hearing from EAA members is a desire for improved
amenities
throughout their convention site, and this is a plan to meet those needs
today and a decade down the road WITHOUT putting the costs on the
members.
It is a plan, however, driven by the comments we've received from
members
and others over the past several years who tell us to improve the site
while
keeping the culture of the event.
I hope this clarifies a few things. I hope your source of the
information
feels free to ask any questions that may arise. Thanks again for the
e-mail.
Best regards,
Dick Knapinski
EAA OSH
920-426-6523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | OT: Interesting Airventure story |
I didn't see any real contradiction to what I posted. With the exception of
OSH councilman considering consolidating their convention center with the Airventure
grounds if this goes forward with TIF funds. The councilman interviewed
for the story clearly said it was a consideration of his. No matter anyway,
OSH city council voted to approve the current convention center improvement plan
last night so that part is probably dead.
It's always interesting to see how people respond to email without the ability
to read emotion or body language. Obviously EAA is concerned about possible
negative press over this.
Watch the news report, make your own decisions, and if you feel strongly in either
direction let EAA know.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 11:04 AM
Subject: FW: RV10-List: OT: Interesting Airventure story
This is the response I got from EAA.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Knapinski [mailto:dknapinski(at)eaa.org] On Behalf Of Communications
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 7:23 AM
Cc: dennis(at)aogpaint.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT: Interesting Airventure story
David:
Thanks for your e-mail. There is a lot of information in the e-mail below
that is just plain incorrect. Let me go through it point-by-point, and feel
free to pass it back down the road from where you originally received it so
the RV-10 list isn't working off bad information:
1) Yes, as mentioned for the past couple of years, there is site
re-development planning underway. EAA Members (thousands of them),
Exhibitors, Pilots and others have been surveyed extensively over the past
three years about what they want improved on their convention site. The
first stage of the project will include improved transportation within the
site, additional showers and restroom facilities, improved food options,
Wi-Fi service, improved camping areas, and so forth.
2) The city of Oshkosh is NOT talking about abandoning their convention
center. That's never been part of the discussion. Whoever claims otherwise
is hearing only part of the story. This proposed facility is quite different
that the downtown convention center.
3) Demands from exhibitors have been for larger spaces and more indoor
spaces. EAA members and exhibitors have been asking for better
climate-controlled areas as well. To those of us who remember the old
flight line exhibit buildings, the current exhibit hangars are a world
better, but those who don't recall those tell us that they want more.
4) Tom Poberezny has shared site re-development information in previous
communications with EAA members and is doing so again in the June issue of
Sport Aviation. There will also be more information coming during this
year's AirVenture fly-in and additional member input is always welcomed.
5) You're right in that Oshkosh can use additional year-round facilities,
and in development of the site there is an opportunity to create an area
that would be available for off-season, year-round use. Some of this is
done already well before and after the fly-in each year. This brings in
revenue that allows EAA to maintain and improve the entire grounds without
pinging the member for funding.
6) Let me make this point abundantly clear -- MEMBER DUES ARE NOT BEING
USED FOR THIS PROJECT. That is why this is a phased-in, 10-year plan, so it
can be properly financed as it goes along. If there is not an overall plan
for the future, then the redevelopment will be haphazard at best. It is
also why the first stages of the project focus directly on member and
visitor amenities, not buildings. Exhibitor revenue, sponsorships and other
non-dues revenue are being used for this project.
7) What we're hearing from EAA members is a desire for improved amenities
throughout their convention site, and this is a plan to meet those needs
today and a decade down the road WITHOUT putting the costs on the members.
It is a plan, however, driven by the comments we've received from members
and others over the past several years who tell us to improve the site while
keeping the culture of the event.
I hope this clarifies a few things. I hope your source of the information
feels free to ask any questions that may arise. Thanks again for the
e-mail.
Best regards,
Dick Knapinski
EAA OSH
920-426-6523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Memorial Day |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Lew, '67 & '68 for me. When I was a kid, we didn't celebrate Memorial Day (I believe
it was called Decoration Day back then). We celebrated it on April 26th.
The holiday for soldiers and veterans was always Armistice Day, now called Veterans
Day in November. I remember Audy Murphy riding in a jeep in our hometown
parade that day - a least my fuzzy memory likes to think it was that day....
I'm surprised you were able to do those skins by yourself; I couldn't have done
it without my wife running the gun.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185369#185369
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mistral engine in RV-10 |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in the RV-10
Michael
http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media/images/palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mistral engine in RV-10 |
Looks like the cowl will need "Danger beware of intake" on the side :)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 7:38:04 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Mistral engine in RV-10
I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in the RV-10
Michael
http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media/images/palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Mistral engine in RV-10 |
THAT IS SO DAMM COOL!
John G. #409
> Subject: RV10-List: Mistral engine in RV-10> From: rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 07:38:04 -0700> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > --> R
V10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" > >
I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in the RV-10> Michae
l> > > http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media
/images/palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg> > --------> RV-1
0 builder (engine, prop, finishing)> #511> > > > > Read this topic online h
ere:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370> > > >
==> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Mistral engine in RV-10 |
Let's see it when it flies. My partner visited the Switzerland factory in
2005 and they could not fly their Piper test aircraft more than 30 minutes
without overheating. He spent considerable time at the factory with the
engineers. I also looked at their display at OSH 2006 and the entire cowling
inside were taken with air ducts and radiators. If they have solved the heat
problem it could be a good alternative engine. They have been trying to
certify this engine for some time with tests at a flight school in Florida.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 7:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Mistral engine in RV-10
-->
I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in the RV-10 Michael
http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media/images/
palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: [FlyRotary] Mistral coming to Ada, OK |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Cross post from our flyrotary group last week.
Bobby Hughes
40116
Please excuse me if this is old news, but our EAA983 Chapter visited
GAMI and Tornado Alley Turbo on Sat in Ada, OK, and they related that
the Mistral rotary is going to spend several months in their test cell
validating lots of different aspects of the design. It is due to arrive
in mid June.
I, for one, plan to visit again in August to maybe watch this baby run
flat out under load. If you have not seen their hi tech test cell(s),
you are in for a treat. (See attached photo) I vote we descend on them
with a batch of rotary-powered aircraft!
President Tim Roehl said that if we give him a call and set up a visit,
we would be more than welcome.
They have a VERY impressive facility which does lots of different types
of engineering, but the most famous are the GAMI injectors for the
piston folks, and at this point, over 525 twin turbo packages for the
Cirrus factory for their G3.
www.gami.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [FlyRotary] Mistral coming to Ada, OK |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
The OKC chapter visited last year and am very impressed with their facility. Just
out side the window in the picture are stands for 2 engines and they can monitor
just about any parameter that you can imagine. When we were there, they
had a turbo engine on one of the stands and ran it up for us. They turned out
the lights and you could see the turbo turn red hot under certain conditions.
They showed the inlet temp, outlet temp, case temp, oil temp, and probably
a couple more that I can't remember.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185396#185396
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
what have flyers found to be the useable/unusable fuel in the 10? Any
variability in the tank capacity?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Useable fuel |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
4.5oz unudsble in my left tank and 5oz unusable in my right tank. Tanks will hold
30 gallons easy with a little room available for expansion due to temp changes.
Bob N442PM flying
.
------Original Message------
From: David McNeill
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: May 29, 2008 12:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Useable fuel
what have flyers found to be the useable/unusable fuel in the 10? Any variability
in the tank capacity?
Bob
--------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Useable fuel |
I don't consider this "safe" fuel levels, but useable is
everything it will hold, except for about 1/4 quart.
I flew both tanks dry, independently, and there was
maybe a cup of fuel or so out of each tank that I
could get out of the sump. It amazingly can use almost
everything in the tank. Of course, if you ran it that
low, any slip or maneuver you did would probably unport
the fuel inlet...so under 5 gallons I'd be really careful
for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David McNeill wrote:
> what have flyers found to be the useable/unusable fuel in the 10? Any
> variability in the tank capacity?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Yes just checking. Landing without 5 in each tank would worry me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Useable fuel
I don't consider this "safe" fuel levels, but useable is everything it will
hold, except for about 1/4 quart.
I flew both tanks dry, independently, and there was maybe a cup of fuel or
so out of each tank that I could get out of the sump. It amazingly can use
almost everything in the tank. Of course, if you ran it that low, any slip
or maneuver you did would probably unport the fuel inlet...so under 5
gallons I'd be really careful for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David McNeill wrote:
> what have flyers found to be the useable/unusable fuel in the 10? Any
> variability in the tank capacity?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
We intentionally ran one tank dry in flight, and found what others are
reporting. We refilled it with 30 gallons, as close as the pump could
measure.
I've pumped each tank dry on the ground a couple times. Each time it left
only a few ounces drainable from the sump. I'd say less than a cup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC 136 hours
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 11:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Useable fuel
what have flyers found to be the useable/unusable fuel in the 10? Any
variability in the tank capacity?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mistral engine in RV-10 |
Hows the air intake! Like a jet cool!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 12:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Mistral engine in RV-10
>
>
> I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in the RV-10
> Michael
>
>
> http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media/images/palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Mistral engine in RV-10 |
Guys and Gals,
Go to http://www.rv10.dk where you'll find the full story of both how the cowl was made and the builders experience with the 300hp Mistral engine. Palle's done a magnificent job with this aircraft and we await the final product with interest - it should be something very special!
Best wishes to all,
Rodger
--- On Thu, 29/5/08, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Mistral engine in RV-10
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, 29 May, 2008, 4:38 PM
> Wellenzohn"
>
> I just found the picture of and mistral engine mounted in
> the RV-10
> Michael
>
>
> http://www.mistral-engines.com/var/ezwebin_site/storage/images/media/images/palleolesenrv10/3251-1-fre-FR/PalleOlesenRV10.jpg
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185370#185370
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
Sent from Yahoo! Mail.
A Smarter Email http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | removeable co-pilot stick |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick being
pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185468#185468
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removeable co-pilot stick |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
n277dl wrote:
> Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick being
pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
> Doug
There was a thread like this I believe over on VansAirForce some time ago. I am
thinking about it but have not come to any conclusion yet nor has it come to
the time when any decision must be made. From the thread I noted and stored
one thing that might be able to be used. It is from McMaster.com (McMaster-Carr)
and is called a 'Telescoping Tubing Quick-Release Button connector'. The
part numbers of note are 92988a650 and 92988a730. Not sure if they would work
but it is floating around in the mush between my ears. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185474#185474
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | removeable co-pilot stick |
To take ours out we just unbolt it using the per-plans hardware. As you
move the stick full forward the bolt kind of presents itself. It seems like
a bad job but it only takes a few minutes. A pip pin would make it even
easier but it wouldn't be as tight. We used an Amp plug in the panel
adjacent to the stick for wiring.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 7:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: removeable co-pilot stick
Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick
being pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will
always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185468#185468
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removeable co-pilot stick |
Why not a ball pin??? Check out
http://www.reidsupply.com/catalog.aspx?pn=277 .......
Linn
orchidman wrote:
>
>
> n277dl wrote:
>
>> Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick being
pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
>> Doug
>>
>
> There was a thread like this I believe over on VansAirForce some time ago. I
am thinking about it but have not come to any conclusion yet nor has it come
to the time when any decision must be made. From the thread I noted and stored
one thing that might be able to be used. It is from McMaster.com (McMaster-Carr)
and is called a 'Telescoping Tubing Quick-Release Button connector'. The
part numbers of note are 92988a650 and 92988a730. Not sure if they would work
but it is floating around in the mush between my ears. [Laughing]
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185474#185474
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Reduction in Price For SureGrip Brake Pedals |
Hi Everyone,
I would like to let everyone know that we have been able to reduce the
price of our 'SureGrip' Brake Pedal replacement kits sold through Mike
Lauritsen at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. They have been reduced from
$199.00 to $169.00 per pair.
I would also like to let everyone know that we have a new Tail Light
Mounting Ring available through Cleaveland. This ring is riveted to the
back of the lower rudder fairing and allows the standard Whelen tail
light/strobe to be mounted to it using existing hardware. This allows
for an easier installation as well as ease of maintenance.
On the horizon is a new type of oil cooler air flow valve. This device
would be installed at the rear of the baffles where the large scat tube
mounting ring is currently mounted. It will have a similar flange at its
exit so you simply have to trim the scat tube and re mount it to the
valve. This valve is a butterfly type valve that should allow you to
restrict the flow of air to the oil cooler and allow a range of flow
from 95% down to 0% through the use of a standard push/pull cable. It
will be manufactured from stainless steel.
Sorry for the advertisement but I know that everyone likes to hear
about a reduction in the price of accessories and also to hear about new
products in the pipe.
Thanks,
Dave Hertner
RV-10 Bonding Doors Together
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removeable co-pilot stick |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I think that Dave's "pip pin" is the same thing as a "ball pin". Perhaps it's a
brand issue like pop-rivets vs. blind rivets....
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185523#185523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removeable co-pilot stick |
Linn,
Ball pin,,,,AKA.....pip pin..
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 5:42:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: removeable co-pilot stick
Why not a ball pin???=C2- Check out http://www.reidsupply.com/catalog.asp
x?pn=277 .......
Linn
orchidman wrote:
e:
Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick
being pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
Doug There was a thread like this I believe over on VansAirForce some time
ago. I am thinking about it but have not come to any conclusion yet nor ha
s it come to the time when any decision must be made. From the thread I no
ted and stored one thing that might be able to be used. It is from McMaste
r.com (McMaster-Carr) and is called a 'Telescoping Tubing Quick-Release But
ton connector'. The part numbers of note are 92988a650 and 92988a730. Not
sure if they would work but it is floating around in the mush between my e
ars. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=
185474#185474
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removable co-pilot stick |
I didn't seem to document this in my build log but what I ended up doing
is using a recessed push button pin, much like what Linn described, on the
pax stick. Specifically it was a SS Recessed Push-Button Quick-Release, Mc
master-Carr part number 92385A015. With a 4600# shear strength I'm not ove
rly concerned about it breaking.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: removeable co-pilot stick
Why not a ball pin??? Check out http://www.reidsupply.com/catalog.aspx?pn
=277 .......
Linn
orchidman wrote:
@wingscc.com>
n277dl wrote:
Anyone made the copilot control stick removable? My wife enjoys the stick
being pulled for long cross countries in the -7.
Doug
There was a thread like this I believe over on VansAirForce some time ago.
I am thinking about it but have not come to any conclusion yet nor has it
come to the time when any decision must be made. From the thread I noted a
nd stored one thing that might be able to be used. It is from McMaster.com
(McMaster-Carr) and is called a 'Telescoping Tubing Quick-Release Button c
onnector'. The part numbers of note are 92988a650 and 92988a730. Not sure
if they would work but it is floating around in the mush between my ears.
[Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185474#185474
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removeable co-pilot stick |
Think it's a military or aircraft thing for "push-in-pull"
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:54:10 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: removeable co-pilot stick
I think that Dave's "pip pin" is the same thing as a "ball pin". Perhaps it's a
brand issue like pop-rivets vs. blind rivets....
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185523#185523
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removable co-pilot stick |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
msausen wrote:
> I didnt seem to document this in my build log but what I ended up doing is using
a recessed push button pin, much like what Linn described, on the pax stick.
Specifically it was a SS Recessed Push-Button Quick-Release, Mcmaster-Carr
part number 92385A015. With a 4600# shear strength Im not overly concerned about
it breaking.
> Michael
Michael,
What kind of clearance do you have with the head?
On another slightly different subject, did you route your wiring through the curved
part of the stick and then exit before the pin or were you able to route
it past the pin/bolt, or did you go external all the way?
I am wondering what most others are doing.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185532#185532
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removable co-pilot stick |
I didn't seem to have any clearance problems at all. The head is actually quite
small. I have the whole section ripped apart at the moment as I'm putting
in my AFP purge return line so when I go to put it back together I'll try to
remember to take a few pictures. As far as the wiring goes, I'll let you know
when I get there. ;-)
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: removable co-pilot stick
msausen wrote:
> I didnt seem to document this in my build log but what I ended up doing is using
a recessed push button pin, much like what Linn described, on the pax stick.
Specifically it was a SS Recessed Push-Button Quick-Release, Mcmaster-Carr
part number 92385A015. With a 4600# shear strength Im not overly concerned about
it breaking.
> Michael
Michael,
What kind of clearance do you have with the head?
On another slightly different subject, did you route your wiring through the curved
part of the stick and then exit before the pin or were you able to route
it past the pin/bolt, or did you go external all the way?
I am wondering what most others are doing.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185532#185532
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wiring restive fuel sender/s |
I'm electron challenged, and so the simplest things elude me at times.
My question is how to wire the resistance fuel senders. I have 2 wires
coming from my EIU for each tank. In the center of the fuel sender is a
screw for a terminal. I assume this is for the sending / signal line,
there are no other provisions on the sender for additional terminals, is
it assumed that the unit is grounded through the airframe? In which case
the 'other' / ground wire/s from the EIU can be terminated at a
ground/block or on the airframe? If not, where do it connect the other
wire/s from the EIU?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Gust Lock options/opinions |
Hi All,
While doing my walk around today I noticed the rudder stop on the right side
had completely sheared off the 3 rivets that hold the stop in place and it
had fallen into the rudder's lower fairing.
I keep my plane in the hangar so had not thought I needed a gust lock but
after some investigation I'm told "yeah, we needed to get a plane out of the
back so we had to pull all the planes out last week and I guess it was
pretty windy that day". If was damaged the day I suspect it was the wind
was gusting to about 45 MPH. Fortunately no major damage and a couple
hours to repair but if it would had continued to get banged around it
certainly could have been serious.
So I'm looking for opinions on gust locks, a quick Google found this one
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/gust_lock.html, any other options or opinions
anyone wishes to share?
Perry Casson
RV-10 C-FMHP 27 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring restive fuel sender/s |
Deems sounds the same as the temp probe one wire to probe and one wire to
ground.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 2:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wiring restive fuel sender/s
>
> I'm electron challenged, and so the simplest things elude me at times. My
> question is how to wire the resistance fuel senders. I have 2 wires coming
> from my EIU for each tank. In the center of the fuel sender is a screw for
> a terminal. I assume this is for the sending / signal line, there are no
> other provisions on the sender for additional terminals, is it assumed
> that the unit is grounded through the airframe? In which case the 'other'
> / ground wire/s from the EIU can be terminated at a ground/block or on the
> airframe? If not, where do it connect the other wire/s from the EIU?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gust Lock options/opinions |
I use Alex's gust lock and like it very much.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/gust_lock.html
It is real easy to install and as long as you put it on the pilot's side
you couldn't fail to disconnect prior to takeoff. I do not use the wrap
around the control stick just but I do tie down the control stick with
the seat belt.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 215+ Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Gust Lock options/opinions |
Found all the info I need this AM here
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13070. Off to the
hardware store to get a paint roller handle & plumbing bits.
Thanks,
Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | wiring restive fuel sender/s |
I put a line on one of the screws that hold the sender into the tank. I was
not sure that the proseal would conduct as well as it should through the
joint of sender and tank. If you have a good ground at the sender, then you
can connect the other line near by to airframe ground. That has worked well
on mine.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 11:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wiring restive fuel sender/s
I'm electron challenged, and so the simplest things elude me at times.
My question is how to wire the resistance fuel senders. I have 2 wires
coming from my EIU for each tank. In the center of the fuel sender is a
screw for a terminal. I assume this is for the sending / signal line,
there are no other provisions on the sender for additional terminals, is
it assumed that the unit is grounded through the airframe? In which case
the 'other' / ground wire/s from the EIU can be terminated at a
ground/block or on the airframe? If not, where do it connect the other
wire/s from the EIU?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Wiring Questions |
Hi
I am in the process of planning my wiring and have a couple of questions for
the list.
First, I am planning on using Infinity stick grips. When wiring these grips
through the control stick tube, how does one protect the wires from undue
stress when the control stick is moved?
Are there any rules of thumb that can be used when deciding what sizes of
shrink wrap to be used in an applications - in particular what arte the most
common sizes that are used. I would like to order some from ACS but have no
idea as to quantities and sizes I should get.
Lastly, what is the difference between a 4 indent and a 8 indent D-Sub
crimper? Which is preferable?
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Gust Lock options/opinions |
Easy to make. Take two pieces if 1"x 1' x1/8" aluminum angle 16 " long. Put
a long bolt (8") through the center of the each angle and secure through
both pieces with a wing nut ( so no tools are required to install). Paint it
day-glow something that clashes with your paint scheme. Pad the ends of the
angle that will be against the fuselage with foam and place bolt through the
lower hinge opening to install. Has worked great for a Glastar for several
years and just began using on the 10.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gust Lock options/opinions
Hi All,
While doing my walk around today I noticed the rudder stop on the right side
had completely sheared off the 3 rivets that hold the stop in place and it
had fallen into the rudder's lower fairing.
I keep my plane in the hangar so had not thought I needed a gust lock but
after some investigation I'm told "yeah, we needed to get a plane out of the
back so we had to pull all the planes out last week and I guess it was
pretty windy that day". If was damaged the day I suspect it was the wind
was gusting to about 45 MPH. Fortunately no major damage and a couple
hours to repair but if it would had continued to get banged around it
certainly could have been serious.
So I'm looking for opinions on gust locks, a quick Google found this one
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/gust_lock.html, any other options or opinions
anyone wishes to share?
Perry Casson
RV-10 C-FMHP 27 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring Questions |
try www.mcmaster.com for spiral wrap. They also have wraps that will
take
under cowl temps
s easy-to-use spiral wrap installs
like tape around bundles of wire, tube, and hose.
Wrap also permits access anywhere along its length.
Polyethylene=97Comes on a spool. Temperature range
is '76=B0 to +190=B0 F. Sleeving is abrasion and solvent resistant
and is UL recognized. To Order : Please specify length
from those listed in the table. Clear wraps are for indoor
use. Ultraviolet-resistant wrap is black and ultraviolet-stabilized
for outdoor use in direct sunlight. Choose-a-color
wraps are for indoor use. To Order : Please specify blue,
green, orange, red, white, or yellow.
=03 1/2 to 5 for self-extinguishing nylon sleeving. Lengths are not
continuous.
OD
Bundle Dia.
Range
CHOOSE-A-COLOR POLYETHYLENE SELF-EXTINGUISHING NYLON
Wall
Thick.
Each Wall
Thick.
Each
10 ft. 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft. 10 ft. 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft.
1 / 8 . . 1 / 16 to 1 / 2 . . 0.032 . . 7378K41 . . . . . . . . . $1.99
$4.44 $8.11 $14.77 0.015 . . . . . . . . . 7432K56 . . . . . . . . . . .
.
$2.99 $6.65 $12.18 $22.14
1 / 4 . . 3 / 16 to 2 . . . . . . 0.045 . . 7378K42 . . . . . . . . .
3.06
6.95 12.78 21.10 0.025 . . . . . . . . . 7432K57 . . . . . . . . . . . .
4.69 10.44 19.14 32.97
3 / 8 . . 5 / 16 to 3 . . . . . . 0.052 . . 7378K43 . . . . . . . . .
4.92
10.70 19.63 34.66 0.035 . . . . . . . . . 7432K58 . . . . . . . . . . .
.
7.04 15.52 28.47 49.49
1 / 2 . . 3 / 8 to 4 . . . . . . 0.062 . . 7378K44 . . . . . . . . .
6.28
13.49 24.74 43.00 0.035 . . . . . . . . . 7432K59 . . . . . . . . . . .
.
9.42 20.23 35.48 64.49
3 / 4 . . 3 / 4 to 5=03 . . . 0.065 . . 7378K45 . . . . . . . . . 10.07
22.38
39.75 72.28 0.032 . . . . . . . . . 7432K28 . . . . . . . . . 15.09
33.53
50.47 98.02
1 . . . . . . 1 to 7 . . . . . . 0.080 . . 7378K46 . . . . . . . . .
15.20
25.34 46.17 84.44 0.032 . . . . . . . . . 7432K29 . . . . . . . . .
17.10
35.51 67.62 126.69
OD
Bundle Dia.
Range
Wall
Thick.
CLEAR POLYETHYLENE ULTRAVIOLET-RESISTANT BLACK POLYETHYLENE
Each Each
10 ft. 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft. 10 ft. 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft.
1 / 8 . . 1 / 16 to 1 / 2 . . 0.032 . . . 7432K36 . . . . . . . . $1.82
$3.67 $6.69 $12.19 7432K69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . . . . $1.99 $4.12 $7.59 $13.75
1 / 4 . . 3 / 16 to 2 . . . . . . 0.045 . . . 7432K37 . . . . . . . .
2.85
5.75 10.53 19.15 7432K162 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . 3.13 6.31 11.60 21.08
3 / 8 . . 5 / 16 to 3 . . . . . . 0.052 . . . 7432K38 . . . . . . . .
4.38
8.62 15.81 27.51 7432K63 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . . . 4.81 9.51 17.40 35.68
1 / 2 . . 3 / 8 to 4 . . . . . . 0.062 . . . 7432K39 . . . . . . . .
5.70
11.25 20.62 35.84 7432K164 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . 6.27 12.39 22.68 46.48
5 / 8 . . 1 / 2 to 4 1 / 2 . . 0.062 . . . 7432K47 . . . . . . . . 8.72
19.37 35.52 64.58 7432K66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . . . . 9.59 21.31 39.07 71.04
3 / 4 . . 3 / 4 to 5 . . . . . . 0.065 . . . 7432K46 . . . . . . . .
9.36
20.42 40.18 65.12 7432K165 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . 9.67 21.49 39.40 71.63
1 . . . . . . 1 to 7 . . . . . . 0.080 . . . 7432K48 . . . . . . . .
14.12
34.49 63.18 90.67 7432K67 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . . . . 14.74 26.74 50.77 120.65
1 1 / 2 . . 1 1 / 2 to 10 . . . . 0.100 . . . 7432K49 . . . . . . . .
26.30
59.95 119.88 7432K68 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. .
. . . . . . 26.83 62.95 125.87
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 6:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wiring Questions
Hi
I am in the process of planning my wiring and have a couple of questions
for
the list.
First, I am planning on using Infinity stick grips. When wiring these
grips
through the control stick tube, how does one protect the wires from
undue
stress when the control stick is moved?
Are there any rules of thumb that can be used when deciding what sizes
of
shrink wrap to be used in an applications ' in particular what arte
the most
common sizes that are used. I would like to order some from ACS but have
no
idea as to quantities and sizes I should get.
Lastly, what is the difference between a 4 indent and a 8 indent D-Sub
crimper? Which is preferable?
Inquiring minds need to know=85.
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring Questions |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
shrink wrap
One each of: 1/4'', 3/8'', 1/2'', 3/4'', 1'' 48" long
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber'39
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> I am in the process of planning my wiring and have a couple of questions for
> the list.
>
>
>
> First, I am planning on using Infinity stick grips. When wiring these grips
> through the control stick tube, how does one protect the wires from undue
> stress when the control stick is moved?
>
>
>
> Are there any rules of thumb that can be used when deciding what sizes of
> shrink wrap to be used in an applications - in particular what arte the most
> common sizes that are used. I would like to order some from ACS but have no
> idea as to quantities and sizes I should get.
>
>
>
> Lastly, what is the difference between a 4 indent and a 8 indent D-Sub
> crimper? Which is preferable?
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know..
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gust Lock options/opinions |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Perry,
This is close to what I plan on using:
$1.30
Light, compact, simple, tested
Remove as part of preflight.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | New products from TCW Technologies |
Fellow builders,
We are pleased to announce another new product. Universal
Switch- Airspeed Kit. (USW-1)
At Sun-n-Fun many folks got to see our Safety-Trim and
Intelligent Flap Controller system in action. This included a working
demonstration of our products. Aside from the interest generated in
these products we had a lot of inquires regarding the use of our
Airspeed Switch (ASW-1) for the control of other electrical loads in the
airplane. Well this new product addresses that need. USW-1 allows
for the control of electrical loads up to 10 amps based on aircraft
speed. This product provides a "squat switch" like capability and may
be used to enable/disable a transponder.
For all the details please visit our web site.
www.tcwtech.com
Thank you,
Bob Newman
40176 finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TruTrak Torque Enhancer Check |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Just a reminder to all to double check the security of the set screws on the TruTrak
pitch servo torque enhancer when you install. Tim Olson noted an issue
early on in his install and I had the same failure. Best guess is that the failure
occurred after about a dozen flight hours (I've been hand flying the last
several hours so can't pin it down exactly). Issue is that the cable that loops
around the wheel and then attaches to the ends with simple set screws. Not
sure if there is a flaw in the design, if the set screw wasn't properly tightened
when the unit was delivered or if was a simple failure.
During some ground checking of systems last night I discovered that the pitch servo
was moving (could hear it) but no control surface movement. After pulling
the baggage bulkhead it was obvious that the cable connection had failed.
Following is a link to Tim's website where there are pictures of the torque enhancer
and his description of the same issue.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/index.html
It is not difficult to imagine that you could have this failure and jammed elevator
controls would be a result. I will be talking to TruTrak in the morning
to see what they have to say and will report back. PLEASE check the security
of your pitch servo torque enhancers on a regular basis.
Bob N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185704#185704
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Gust Lock options/opinions |
This won't work on an RV-10 because of the way the rudder stops are
arranged.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gust Lock options/opinions
Perry,
This is close to what I plan on using:
http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/9899/img0014170nb.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Gust Lock options/opinions |
We've just been doing this. It'll work even better after I cut about 1/8"
off the end of the red tube. We have to pull the pin out so the handle
collapes all the way down against the frame.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel System Page 37-2 |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've searched the archives and haven't found the answer, so here goes. I'm on page
37-2 installing Van's fuel selector. The Blue fittings bring up a question:
I did not use teflon tape, I used Fuel Lube. When you thread the Blue fittings
in, they suddenly stop hard - like iron pipe does. I'm extremely reluctant
to force them to the correct clocking. I can clock them correctly but they are
about a 10th of a turn from the hard stop.
This is my first experience with the Blue fittings so comments are appreciated.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185781#185781
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reduction in Price For SureGrip Brake Pedals |
David,
Where did your idea and design for the oil cooler butterfly door on the
RV10 come from?
DEAN
____________________________________________________________
Click now for great deals on quality business cards!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iieUwnqjSwx34OXv7fjKcFE
fPiF3LC9oPKqFiR0XmlQyr5yWI/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reduction in Price For SureGrip Brake Pedals |
| From: | "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net> |
Dean,
Check this site
http://www.justrvparts.com/RV-10%20air%20controller.htm
My partner and I designed this and I've been testing this for the last 4 months
on one of my RV-10's We developed this because of difficaulty reaching good
oil temp in winter and we have not restricted flow enough to effect summer cooling.
We just released these for sale not long ago because we wanted everything
perfect.
Steve Raddatz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185819#185819
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Asymmetrical elevator trim - why? |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I was just hooking up my trim hardware and I'm puzzled why the asymmetrical setup?
I had found a discussion about this in the archives (twisted tail discussion and
all), but I would still like to find out how this asymmetrical setup works,
and why they designed it that way?
Could anyone provide us with an explanation?
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185858#185858
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Asymmetrical elevator trim - why? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Lenny,
Original design had one of the trim tabs hooked in to the flap system to
compensate for the nose down tendency as flaps are applied (noticeable
with full flaps). Very early they (Van's) decided that it wasn't a big
deal and just used both flaps for the regular trim system. The plane
didn't really need any more nose down trim but really needed some help
with nose up trim with forward CG during landings.
Looks pretty strange but works fine.
Bob
N442PM flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 8:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Asymmetrical elevator trim - why?
I was just hooking up my trim hardware and I'm puzzled why the
asymmetrical setup?
I had found a discussion about this in the archives (twisted tail
discussion and all), but I would still like to find out how this
asymmetrical setup works, and why they designed it that way?
Could anyone provide us with an explanation?
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185858#185858
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Torque Enhancer Check |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Update: TruTrak is overnighting out a new Torque Enhancer. Person I talked to
said he saw this on some early torque enhancers but not recently.
Another reminder - check the security of the set screws that attach the cable to
the aluminum bar! If you have a problem it is NOT repairable by you due to
the required tension on the cable.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185924#185924
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot connection at Wing root |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Need to order some final bits - what have you guys typically been using
to connect the solid (pipe) pitot line to the flexible (tube) line at
the wing root??
Cheers,
Ron
187 almost done
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Belt Anchors & cables |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm wrapping up tailcone plumbing stuff before closing out the access hole behind
the cabin top. The rear seat belt anchor plates don't yet have the cables installed
and I haven't been able to find the directions.
Does anyone know offhand the chapter/page where this can be found? It would make
much more sense to have done this BEFORE attaching the tailcone as it sucks
crawling around back there!
Cheers,
Jay
Plumbing and electrical
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=185988#185988
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot connection at Wing root |
If you terminate the aluminum tube in a flare-to-1/8NPT, you can use this
barb adapter from McMaster-Carr: 5116K301
I use two wraps of .020 safety wire around the nylon tube at the barb.
Seems to be holding well so far.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot connection at Wing root
G'day all,
Need to order some final bits - what have you guys typically been using to
connect the solid (pipe) pitot line to the flexible (tube) line at the wing
root??
Cheers,
Ron
187 almost done
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | HOUR TOTAL ON DOORS |
I started my door half triming on March 7th. Last weekend I painted the int
erior of the doors, meaning that I have not placed the door seals on yet, n
or have I put the windows on the doors either. So far I spend 69 hours on d
oor related issues. They fit like a gloove, but man it was a long haul.
John G. #409 on to Windows
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HOUR TOTAL ON DOORS |
I'd say you got away easy! ;-)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Gonzalez wrote:
> . They fit like a gloove, but man it was a long haul.
>
> John G. #409 on to Windows
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust fitting problem |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
After 4.25 years of building and having everything fit beautifully, I
finally get to the very last set of plans (FF-6 Exhaust installation).
Install the right side first, still amazed at how everything 'just
fits'. Finished the routing of the alternator and starter wires and
pulled out the last piece of the kit that was left - the left hand
exhaust manifold.
There is no way that this puppy will fit. The riser for #2 cylinder
seems to have been welded incorrectly and there is nowhere near enough
adjustment to have the stack fit the exhaust ports.
Has anyone else experienced this or am I SOL, right at the finish line??
Thanks in advance for any responses - no 'cheers' today ;-<
Ron
187 hobbled at the end
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
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in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
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however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
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your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust fitting problem |
Welding , although an important skill, is not rocket science. If you are
convinced of a mistake was made your best bet is to have it corrected
locally. IIRC there was a mistake in mine and I noticed it well before the
end game. The welding contractor repaired the product but lost my address.
One day when wondering why it never returned I called them and gave them my
info again. Given your distance I suggest you have an aircraft certified
welder do it there. I would expect that Vans or Aircraft Exhaust
Technologies would provide compensation. Just send them a good digital
picture of the problem.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 9:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust fitting problem
G'day all,
After 4.25 years of building and having everything fit beautifully, I
finally get to the very last set of plans (FF-6 Exhaust installation).
Install the right side first, still amazed at how everything 'just fits'.
Finished the routing of the alternator and starter wires and pulled out the
last piece of the kit that was left - the left hand exhaust manifold.
There is no way that this puppy will fit. The riser for #2 cylinder seems
to have been welded incorrectly and there is nowhere near enough adjustment
to have the stack fit the exhaust ports.
Has anyone else experienced this or am I SOL, right at the finish line??
Thanks in advance for any responses - no 'cheers' today ;-<
Ron
187 hobbled at the end
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <john(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | J Channel & Bulkheads |
I have had an interesting comment by both an A&P and and RV6 builder while
looking over my plane. They pointed out that in the tailcone the edges of
the J channels touch the bulkhead cutouts. They were concerned that the
contact under vibration could create a crack in the bulkheads. They both
suggested that I bend the J channel edges down to prevent the contact. This
seems like a lot of work (especially in the tight tailcone). I am wondering
if anyone else has been concerned about this or has bothered to bend J
channels. Is there a building standard about contact between parts like
this?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
Checked by AVG.
7:00 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: J Channel & Bulkheads |
I noticed it during construction and filed the holes in the bulkheads a
little bigger so they didn't touch. Not sure if it is/was necessary though.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
John Testement wrote:
> I have had an interesting comment by both an A&P and and RV6 builder
> while looking over my plane. They pointed out that in the tailcone the
> edges of the J channels touch the bulkhead cutouts. They were
> concerned that the contact under vibration could create a crack in the
> bulkheads. They both suggested that I bend the J channel edges down to
> prevent the contact. This seems like a lot of work (especially in the
> tight tailcone). I am wondering if anyone else has been concerned
> about this or has bothered to bend J channels. Is there a building
> standard about contact between parts like this?
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Painting and final assembly
>
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 6/3/2008 7:00 AM
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust fitting problem |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Ron,
I just did this step a couple of months ago, and at first I could not see any way
it was going to fit. By leaving the exhaust stud nuts very loose I was able
to get an approximate fit of the pipes into the collector. Snugged down the
nuts a little at a time, and it all came together. If yours doesn't work that
way I would ask Van's for a new one, as Tim suggested.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186233#186233
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust fitting problem |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Guys,
I received a response from Larry Vetterman overnight as follows:
"Ron, this system was built on a Lycoming so it will fit and in fact it
was placed on the engine to check for final fit. I do believe that you
have got the pipes out of alignment by moving the ball joints which is
forward and rear movement and then sideways also which can be checked by
alignment or mis alignment of the connecting links on pipes 2 and 6 and
also on the collector. Start over by mounting each individual pipe with
out the collector and align #2 and #6 with #4 . #4 is the only ridgid
pipe so align to it. when they all line up you can loosen the nuts on
the flanges and slide the collector part way on. then align the
connecting links if need. Try this as the pipes do not need trimmed
the #4 gives your forward and rear placement. Larry"
I checked my manifold last night before I received Larry's email and it
appears he is spot on the money. The ball joint (or slip joint) on the
#2 (ie forward) riser was jammed and out of position - I would have
sworn that it was welded in place and not meant to move. After much
huffing and puffing and a considerable amount of lubricant/penetrant
(gotta get some 'Mouse Milk'), the joint finally loosened. I haven't
tried to re-instal yet, but it looks like that was the problem.
So for those yet to get to this point, the pipe joints that look like
they should move really do move, and may need to be lubricated. The key
to correct alignment is the middle riser (#4). I would have loved to
have seen Larry's response before I started the installation - would
have saved some grief so present it here for the archives.
So it looks like I now only have one issue - thinking that I am at the
finish line (thanks heaps Robin!!)
Cheers,
Ron
187 up and running again
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | SlilckStart Troubleshooting |
If your SlickStart doesn't seem to be starting so slick, read on.
Our RV-10 developed a starting problem in that in suddenly becare VERY
difficult to start. For 130 hours it had been starting quite nicely, but
the last time I tired, I just had to give up.
N921AC has two slick mags, one with retard points on the left, and a
SlickStart solid state starting module, essentially a newer version of the
Shower of Sparks system.
I went through all the normal troubleshooting and figured the problem must
be the SlickStart module. I wasn't getting any spark at the plug with the
SlickStart powered up and the retard points in firing position. I called
Unison just to make sure I was checking the right things, and they confirmed
it had to be the SlickStart. So I changed it.
No help. I checked as many things as I could think of: timing, p-leads,
harness, fuse, grounds.. I knew the points were opening because my timing
box was indicating OK. I knew the mag was basically sound because when we
had managed to get it started (I won't go into how...), it ran fine with a
normal mag drop.
I finally gave up and sent the mag and both SlickStarts (old one and new
one) to LyCon, where I got my engine. They put it on their magneto bench,
and came up with the following explanation. This is somewhat untested, but
it makes sense and all the evidence >>points<< to it. Sorry, I couldn't
resist.
Ken at LyCon explained to me that the capacitor had failed, and in so doing
had caused the frame of the points (both sets, I guess), to get warm enough
to accelerate the wear of the cam follower. So, both points were
technically opening, but just barely enough to trip the timing light. Maybe
.001 or .002 inches instead of .012 or more. That does make sense, because
one of the first things I did was to check the mag timing, and I found it
had advanced about 10 degrees, to about 15 BTC on the main points and about
10 past TC on the retard points. I just reset the timing and went on
troubleshooting. As the cam follower wears, it retards the spark.
Part of the SlickStart troubleshooting says to look for ~300 volts from the
output. If the points were barely opening, I think that 300 volts would be
able to jump the gap and essentially ground through the retard points
instead of exciting the primary coil.
I installed my old mag after LyCon replaced boths sets of points and the
capacitor, and it worked fine.
So the upshot is, if the SlickStart troubleshooting points to a bad module,
it's probably worth physically checking the point gap with a feeler gauge,
instead of just with the timing box before you replace the module.
In retrospect I wish Unison would have suggested that.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
135 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HOUR TOTAL ON DOORS |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I would agree that 269 hrs is a reasonable time to spend on the doors and the hinge
- locking mechanism
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186333#186333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - Explain This |
Sam wrote:
>
> My simple explanation is a bit dated, 70's experience. I agree, were
> all pawns, in a world game!
> Now, back to RV10 stuff........did anyone perfect a rudder trim system?
The subject seems to have died, doesn't it??? I'm still working on my
'closed loop' rudder cable system. Well, that's not true. Other
projects have been consuming my time. Once the closed loop system is
complete, I envision a vernier control attached to springs on one of the
rudder cables to bias the rudder. We'll see!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOUR TOTAL ON DOORS |
Wow, I guess I did do something right if I cut off 200 hours.
JOhn G. #409> Subject: RV10-List: Re: HOUR TOTAL ON DOORS> From: Mikeabel@P
acbell.net> Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 23:14:50 -0700> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.c
I would agree that 269 hrs is a reasonable time to spend on the doors and t
he hinge - locking mechanism> > --------> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there
in "09> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory> > > > > Read this
topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186333#
=====> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Almost a Builder |
Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the kit and
inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost a Builder |
Kelly
Welcome to the dark side. I guess I'll have to rat you out to the Piper list...
Cheers
Les
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008 8:46 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Almost a Builder
>
> Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
> builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the
> kit and
> inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> _-
> = - List Contribution Web Site -
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost a Builder |
I doubt you'll worry too much about the pick-up but I assure you there will
be moments you will worry when building, but don't worry than either since
May 15, 2008 - June 05, 2008
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dj