RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dk
June 05, 2008 - June 23, 2008
this forum is a great resource for all those perplexing steps.
Make sure you pay attention in the empennage because the instructions get
less detailed in the wings and even more so in the fusellage. THAN you'll be
worrying about steps you come across that the plans dont even mention.
It will be a great experience, enjoy the journey of building it has been a
real blessing for me so far and I trust it will be equally satisfying for
you.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 7:32 PM
| Subject: | Almost a Builder |
>
> Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
> builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the kit and
> inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost a Builder |
Thanks. Turnabout is fair play. Some of them already know about it.
Heck, John Galban was Doug Peterson's "rivet boy" while Doug was
building his -10.
Tool kit from Isham is due in Sat or Mon.
LES KEARNEY wrote:
> Kelly
>
> Welcome to the dark side. I guess I'll have to rat you out to the
> Piper list...
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
> Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008 8:46 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Almost a Builder
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> >
> > Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
> > builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the
> > kit and
> > inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wire tying inside conduit? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Here's a funny question that I've been asking myself this afternoon...
when you run wires inside a conduit (under the rear floors, etc) do you
need to tie them up together before you run them through? you know,
with zip ties or wire lacing tape? Seems like overkill, but i can't
help but think about wires flopping around in there. what say you all?
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire tying inside conduit? |
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Here's a funny question that I've been asking myself this afternoon... when
you run wires inside a conduit (under the rear floors, etc) do you need to tie
them up together before you run them through? you know, with zip ties or wire
lacing tape? Seems like overkill, but i can't help but think about wires flopping
around in there. what say you all?
>
No ties within the conduit. They won't really flop around ..... and if
they do, you've got more important things to worry about ;-) .
Lacing up bundles of wires serves to make a neater installation instead
of looking like someone tossed spaghetti behind the panel :-P . It also
serves to keep the wires from moving around and creating fatigue cracks
in the wires where the crimped lugs or soldered connections are. Being
contained inside a conduit is best looked at like a loose-tied bundle.
> cj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire tying inside conduit? |
CJ, I would definitely NOT tie the wires within the conduit. Having just
gone through the exercise of running additional wires in an already
'full' conduit, the ties would make installing the new wires difficult
to impossible.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Here's a funny question that I've been asking myself this afternoon... when
you run wires inside a conduit (under the rear floors, etc) do you need to tie
them up together before you run them through? you know, with zip ties or wire
lacing tape? Seems like overkill, but i can't help but think about wires flopping
around in there. what say you all?
>
> cj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry petersen <bldanrv9a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust fitting problem |
Is it a Vetterman system? I've been to his shop numerous times and he welds each
system mounted directly to the engine model system is to be mounted on. I'm
not sure what the problem might be, It's been too long since we mounted ours,
but I'd be shocked if the system doesn't fit. If you don't get it figured out
let me know and I can contact Larry for a solution.
--- On Tue, 6/3/08, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> From: McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust fitting problem
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2008, 11:54 PM
> G'day all,
>
> After 4.25 years of building and having everything fit
> beautifully, I
> finally get to the very last set of plans (FF-6 Exhaust
> installation).
> Install the right side first, still amazed at how
> everything 'just
> fits'. Finished the routing of the alternator and
> starter wires and
> pulled out the last piece of the kit that was left - the
> left hand
> exhaust manifold.
>
> There is no way that this puppy will fit. The riser for #2
> cylinder
> seems to have been welded incorrectly and there is nowhere
> near enough
> adjustment to have the stack fit the exhaust ports.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this or am I SOL, right at the
> finish line??
>
> Thanks in advance for any responses - no 'cheers'
> today ;-<
>
> Ron
> 187 hobbled at the end
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached
> files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
> intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or
> any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received
> this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care
> has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus
> free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is
> not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to
> ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in
> this email to
> your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost a Builder |
Good news Kelly,
Welcome aboard. You will love building the RV10.
Are you planning to will call your order?
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Almost a Builder
>
> Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
> builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the kit and
> inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Almost a Builder |
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com> |
Ah, Kelly - your life will never be the same.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings (slow build)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 10:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Almost a Builder
Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the kit and
inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
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Find out September 8th.
The Chasing Zero Summit on Hospital-Acquired Infections
September 8 - 10, 2008 in Washington, D.C.
To learn more or register, visit www.chasingzero.com/HAI
Hosted by Cardinal Health
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinder pre oil sequence |
Anyone off the top of their head know the pre oil sequence for the 540? you know..bring
#? to TDC, oil #?? then which cylinder is next, and so on...Rhonda....Rhonda....
:)
Rick Sked
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cylinder pre oil sequence |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Hi Rick:
Here are the instructions that we recommend with our engines. Either
method is fine.
1. Using an external source of mineral oil and pressure, pump oil
through the engine using the oil pressure fitting as the inlet source.
Install a temporary gage at the right hand forward galley plug and pump
oil until the temporary gage reads a stable pressure between 40-100 psi.
Remove the temporary gage, install galley plug and connect engine oil
pressure cockpit gage. Remove one upper sparkplug from each cylinder
and, using the engine starter, motor the engine until the cockpit gage
reads stable. Install sparkplugs and torque to 400-425 in/lbs. Install
leads. Engine is ready to start for LIMITED ground run.
2. If no external source is available, remove upper sparkplugs and
rotate engine through using the propeller until some indication on the
cockpit gage appears. Using the engine starter, motor the engine until
the gage reads 40-100 psi, stable. Observe starter limitations.
Install sparkplugs as above.
Best,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 11:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder pre oil sequence
Anyone off the top of their head know the pre oil sequence for the 540?
you know..bring #? to TDC, oil #?? then which cylinder is next, and so
on...Rhonda....Rhonda.... :)
Rick Sked
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder pre oil sequence |
#2 is what Aerosport recommends and what I did.
Took about 6-8 seconds to see an indication.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Rhonda Bewley <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Sent: Friday, June 6, 2008 11:10:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cylinder pre oil sequence
Hi Rick:
Here are the instructions that we recommend with our engines. Either
method is fine.
1. Using an external source of mineral oil and pressure, pump oil
through the engine using the oil pressure fitting as the inlet source.
Install a temporary gage at the right hand forward galley plug and pump
oil until the temporary gage reads a stable pressure between 40-100 psi.
Remove the temporary gage, install galley plug and connect engine oil
pressure cockpit gage. Remove one upper sparkplug from each cylinder
and, using the engine starter, motor the engine until the cockpit gage
reads stable. Install sparkplugs and torque to 400-425 in/lbs. Install
leads. Engine is ready to start for LIMITED ground run.
2. If no external source is available, remove upper sparkplugs and
rotate engine through using the propeller until some indication on the
cockpit gage appears. Using the engine starter, motor the engine until
the gage reads 40-100 psi, stable. Observe starter limitations.
Install sparkplugs as above.
Best,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 11:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder pre oil sequence
Anyone off the top of their head know the pre oil sequence for the 540?
you know..bring #? to TDC, oil #?? then which cylinder is next, and so
on...Rhonda....Rhonda.... :)
Rick Sked
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Taking The Plunge |
I have been following the list for about a year. After deciding what
airplane to build, the next major decision was what tools to buy. Tim
Olson's and Larry Rosen's web sites (along with several others) plus
much appreciated personal communication from both of them proved
invaluable. The advice coincided well with the little flurry on tools
in March. One suggestion I have not seen since monitoring the list is
to cover at least some of the shop floor with rubber matting to lessen
fatigue. Costco carries it at a good price.
I received my empennage kit in February planning to start building in
late spring. I guess I am on schedule as I took the plunge on
Wednesday. Unfortunately after cutting and deburring the rear spar caps
for the VS, I discovered a significant scratch on the VS rear spar. I
hold an A & P certificate obtained at the University of Illinois in
1961, but I have not worked on aircraft since 1965. Thus I sought
advice from one of our EAA tech counselors. We both agreed that it
should probably be replaced. I contacted Vans and sent them a digital
picture. I received an immediate response that the scratch should have
been caught in the packing process and that a new spar was on its way.
Thus my experience so far is very positive.
As others have said, this list is an extremely valuable resource. I
look forward to leaning on it and hopefully offering some helpful input
an my project goes forward.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813 empennage
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Almost a Builder |
Welcome aboard.
The tool kit I got from Isham a couple of years ago turned out to be a
good one. The only waste was some rivet tape that looked it should be
used on a 747.
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Thanks. Turnabout is fair play. Some of them already know about it.
> Heck, John Galban was Doug Peterson's "rivet boy" while Doug was
> building his -10.
> Tool kit from Isham is due in Sat or Mon.
>
> LES KEARNEY wrote:
>> Kelly
>>
>> Welcome to the dark side. I guess I'll have to rat you out to the
>> Piper list...
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
>> Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008 8:46 pm
>> Subject: RV10-List: Almost a Builder
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> >
>> > Tail Kit order was faxed to Vans today, so I suppose I'll have a
>> > builder number shortly and start worrying about picking up the
>> > kit and
>> > inventorying it. Looking forward to it.
>> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Taking The Plunge |
Regarding rubber matting - I bought (4) 2' squares and found it to be
perfect for covering my active 'foot print' while not getting in the
way. I don't think a rubber floor in a shop is a good thing but
standing on rubber is a joy.
I spent my working career sitting on my butt so I've always focused on
sitting comfort. Building is about standing a lot, and this flat
footed, weak kneed builder has found a pair of Sketcher sandals to be
the best tool in the shop. Personal preference rules but a little
experimentation with the shoes and floor surface seems more than
worthwhile.
Welcome aboard.
Bill "working on those pesky doors" Watson
Durham
David J. Fritzsche wrote:
>
>
> I have been following the list for about a year. After deciding what
> airplane to build, the next major decision was what tools to buy. Tim
> Olson's and Larry Rosen's web sites (along with several others) plus
> much appreciated personal communication from both of them proved
> invaluable. The advice coincided well with the little flurry on tools
> in March. One suggestion I have not seen since monitoring the list is
> to cover at least some of the shop floor with rubber matting to lessen
> fatigue. Costco carries it at a good price.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall Forward Kit For Sale |
Hello All,
I would like to offer my firewall forward package up for sale to those
of you on the list. I have decided to install Bud Warren's Geared Drives
LS1 Firewall Forward package on my '10 so I don't need it.
I had moved along the IO-540 path and had purchased the FF kit before
Bud put his package on the market so it has been opened and some of the
parts placed on the airframe but not installed permanently.
I have the throttle quadrant package. - FF-10 IO-540 W/CT10-3 US$6235.00
I will have to do a complete inventory and repackage all of the
components for anyone interested.
It is for sale at a ~5% discount - US$5900.00 + 1/2 the shipping
Those interested can contact me off the list at
effectus (at) rogers (dot) com or call
519-933-2055
Dave Hertner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall Forward Kit For Sale |
Dave,
I'd jump on the kit but I already have a lot of the larger items
that are listed.
I'd love to get my hands on a packing list for that kit, I'm curious as to
what is included, as far as smaller parts and hoses to help me plan ahead.
Is there anyway I could get you to email me a copy?
Steve dinieri
capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
Iflyrv10.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 3:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Forward Kit For Sale
Hello All,
I would like to offer my firewall forward package up for sale to those
of you on the list. I have decided to install Bud Warren's Geared Drives
LS1 Firewall Forward package on my '10 so I don't need it.
I had moved along the IO-540 path and had purchased the FF kit before
Bud put his package on the market so it has been opened and some of the
parts placed on the airframe but not installed permanently.
I have the throttle quadrant package. - FF-10 IO-540 W/CT10-3 US$6235.00
I will have to do a complete inventory and repackage all of the
components for anyone interested.
It is for sale at a ~5% discount - US$5900.00 + 1/2 the shipping
Those interested can contact me off the list at
effectus (at) rogers (dot) com or call
519-933-2055
Dave Hertner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 2007 Eggenfellner RV-10 Package for sale |
To RVer's especially RV-10 builders who may be thinking about installing an
alternative engine in your 10.
Available immediately complete Eggenfellner RV-10 E-6T 220 HP FWF package i
ncluding 4 Blade Sensenich composite prop with spinner, prop controller, Gr
and Rapids EIS, E-cowling, intercooler package, high output alternator. I'
ve taken delivery of everything except the prop, prop controller and cowlin
g which are due June/July and partially installed on my 10. Recently I hav
e decided to install Bud Warren's GearedDrive LS-1 engine instead and now h
ave a "spare" on my hands. I'm offering this package at a substantial disc
ount so give me a call or send me an email. Contact me at 936-307-6096 or
email at gipsowh(at)hotmail.com .
Regards,
Bill Gipson
Conroe, Texas
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
squirting a small amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
on the door during curing to keep it flat.
They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
I haven't noticed anything bad on the baggage door. I think I did
line mine with that black soundproofing foam though. They didn't
oilcan either. I'm not sure if I'd go the great-stuff route, but
if you're interested in giving it some backing perhaps just a
sponge foam block or something glued in. I'm wondering if a
natural sponge wouldn't be better than a synthetic one for
fire reasons? Of course, closed cell foam would be better
for moisture reasons. I don't think you'll have an issue
with the door though, so filling it is probably something more
to think about for sound or heat than anything else.
I'm just not too sure that great stuff would be the right thing.
Especially if it expanded and bowed the door at all.
All in all though, you're talking about one of the lesser-critical
areas, so probably no idea would be too awful.
Tim
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
> panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
> squirting a /small/ amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
> support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
> on the door during curing to keep it flat.
> They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
Dave;
I went out and looked at my door again. I think it's just the
lightweight aluminum door. Probably be all right to add some
stiffness. I saw a good idea on my friend's 10. On the inside top
rail, there is a forming hole about 2-3 inches from the hinge. Before
you pop rivet the door inside, put a number 6 platenut there. Then,
when the door is attached, run a 18 AWG wire with a ring terminal on
each end. One on the door and one on the inside of the crossmember.
You now have a simple catch to keep the door (and your keys) from
swinging all the way open and damaging your paint job. One of those
simple things to do in construction, but hard to do when everything is
all riveted in.
Dr Fred.
In wiring heaven
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
> panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
> squirting a /small/ amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
> support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
> on the door during curing to keep it flat.
> They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | garmin 430 tube question |
I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray
relative to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip
of the tray sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the
tray. All the diagrams of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does
the bottom lip get mounted flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side)
or does it stick out to the cabin side of the panel and the sides and
top edges are flush? What gives? I just have trays now.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Initial Canopy trimming |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have about
3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
Does this sound familiar???
Thanks,
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Tom,
Sounds very familiar.
Grit your teeth and sand away.
Dave Lammers
finishing
tomhanaway wrote:
>
>I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
>With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have about
3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
>
>So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
>
>Does this sound familiar???
>Thanks,
>Tom
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Tom,
I recently did mine and I'll admit it get's pretty thin on the bottom. However,
I think the plans show an outside measure of a little over an inch in that area.
I'm not looking at the plans so I can't be specific.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186880#186880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Yep, that's how it turns out. You'll want to fill that area anyway to
smooth it for painting, so just drill and rivet and keep on moving
forward if everything else looks good.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
tomhanaway wrote:
>
> I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
> With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have
about 3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
>
> So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
>
> Does this sound familiar???
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
toaster73(at)embarqmail.c wrote:
> I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray relative
to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip of the tray
sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the tray. All the diagrams
of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does the bottom lip get mounted
flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side) or does it stick out to the
cabin side of the panel and the sides and top edges are flush? What gives?
I just have trays now.
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
Chris,
Sounds like you have the tray only at this time and not the actual unit. The bottom
lip needs to be flush with the front of the panel.
If you were cutting out a hole only for this single instrument, you would cut the
hole the dimensions of the inside of the tray plus for the height, add the
thickness of the bottom lip.
So the sides would be even with the inside of the tray, the top even with the top
inside of the tray and for the bottom, the lip would be sticking through even
with the front of the instrument panel and resting on the bottom of the hole.
Now this would be a perfect world, so you would have to add some to the width
and height to allow for clearances.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186888#186888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
Yep, I only have the trays now. I see what your saying. I have this as part
of a stack. The GTX327 is this way too I think. But, the sl30 and gma340 do
not have the lip.
thanks
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 7:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: garmin 430 tube question
>
>
> toaster73(at)embarqmail.c wrote:
>> I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray
>> relative to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip
>> of the tray sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the
>> tray. All the diagrams of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does
>> the bottom lip get mounted flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side)
>> or does it stick out to the cabin side of the panel and the sides and
>> top edges are flush? What gives? I just have trays now.
>> Thanks
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
>>
>
> Chris,
> Sounds like you have the tray only at this time and not the actual unit.
> The bottom lip needs to be flush with the front of the panel.
> If you were cutting out a hole only for this single instrument, you would
> cut the hole the dimensions of the inside of the tray plus for the height,
> add the thickness of the bottom lip.
> So the sides would be even with the inside of the tray, the top even with
> the top inside of the tray and for the bottom, the lip would be sticking
> through even with the front of the instrument panel and resting on the
> bottom of the hole. Now this would be a perfect world, so you would have
> to add some to the width and height to allow for clearances.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186888#186888
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Welcome to fiberglass purgatory. Almost all escape - some day.
Those of us who have escaped, occasionally hear the midnight screaming of those
who are still there. Trim - Fit - check - remove...........
[Rolling Eyes] [Rolling Eyes]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186893#186893
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I do not know about using great stuff. It may be corrosive to the aluminum in the
initial set stage. Also, I have noticed in the construction that I have done,
that it seems to expand (from within) even after it is quite firm. I would
worry about it bowing out unless it was held in a VERY secure press situation
till it was fully set (24 hrs). Still corrosion and water capture would be my
big concerns
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186896#186896
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wire tying inside conduit? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Secure them at the ends with a cushion clamp or a bit of RTV after you put a bit
of tension on the wires. The kinks and bends in the conduit will keep the wires
from jumping around with a bit of tension on the ends. Like deems said don't
look for trouble.
Also if you are concerned, always add an extra #18-22 wire to provide for any future
add-ons.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186897#186897
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust Probe location |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how far the
EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
cheers,
Ron
187 almost done
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Probe location |
I believe most analyzer vendors have a recommendation. EI suggests 1.5
inches below flange. All of my IO-360 stacks happened to have a
witness hole at that distance that was easy to drill for the probes.
Seems to work fine.
Probes may live longer further down the stack. Main critical item is
that all probes are at same distance.
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 7:41 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how far the
> EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 almost done
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Whelan Lights For Sale |
After several months off building due to time constraints, I'm back at it
and taking care of a few things I've been meaning to do for a while. This
is one of them.
When I ordered my QB fuse+wings, I also ordered the Van's Whelan lighting
kit (incandescent). I've since decided to go LED and I'm selling the Van's
lights. I ordered them last summer and the return window for Van's has
elapsed. I was going to try my luck on eBay but figured I'd offer them here
first in case anyone was looking for a set. I'd rather save someone on the
list some money then pay eBay the commission.
I purchased the Van's RV-10 lighting kit (wing tip nav+strobes, tail
nav+strobe, power supply and wiring.)
I'm selling the lights and power supply. I've already used some of the
strobe wiring so that is not included
I know LED's are the trend, but should anyone be interested in a set of
incandescent Whelan's, feel free to contact me off list. If no one is
interested, they probably go on eBay later in the week.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Yes it is. I ended up with some thin spots.
FWIW, I used a variety of power tools to remove the material around the
door sill. Once I got to the point of getting the whole thing to settle
down close to the jog line, I finally found the Van's recommended 5'
sanding block to be an effective tool.
Bill "continuing to worry the doors into compliance" Watson
Durham NC
>
> I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
> With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have
about 3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
>
> So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
>
> Does this sound familiar???
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Probe location |
The Garmin G900 install manual (using Alcor probes) recommends: A) 2-4
inches from flange, B) Not on any curved portion, and C) All at the same
distance from flange. I just finished this and it is a challenge to
satisfy all the requirements on the supplied exhaust system. There are
a couple more self imposed requirements you might think about: A)
Tightening screw accessible during its full range of adjustment (it
moves as the clamp tightens), and B) tightening screw assembly away from
spark plug access area for ease of plug maintenance.
Dave Lammers
just finished exhaust install
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how
> far the EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 almost done
>
>"Warning:
>The information contained in this email and any attached files is
>confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
>recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
>attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
>in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
>taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
>however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
>sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
>checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
>your computer."
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust Probe location |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ron,
I haven't had any issues with their website, if you want a copy of the
manual emailed to you let me know. Here's the excerpt from the GRT EIS
manual on EGT probe installation.
Bob
5.2.9 Exhaust Gas Temperature Probe Installation
Start by drilling an 1/8-inch diameter holes at the appropriate position
in the exhaust manifold as indicated by the engine
manufacturer. If the manufacturer provides no guidance on the location
of the EGT probes, we recommend the
following:
1. Position the probe 2-8 inches from the cylinder.
2. Although not critical, it is preferable to position all probes the
same distance from the cylinder.
3. If possible, position the probes so that they are mounted on a
straight (not curving) portion of the exhaust manifold.
The hose clamps fit slightly better on straight portions of the
manifold.
4. Position the hole around the manifold so that the probe does not
interfere with the cowl, and takes into
consideration practical needs related to maintenance (does not interfere
with the access to the oil filter, etc.),
inspections, or probe mounting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust Probe location
G'day all,
GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how far
the EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
cheers,
Ron
187 almost done
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Initial Canopy trimming |
When I was trimming my canopy I borrowed a Fein power tool from a friend.
This is one of those that the blade, although semi-circular in shape,
vibrates rather than rotates. Didn't throw off chips and dust and made it
very easy to cut the fiberglass. Beat the cut-off tool in every way. Worked
very well on the windows also.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
(I hope he has forgotten who he lent it to by now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rsipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Tom,
Just to second the others -- I stopped when the door sill started to look thin,
and left the gap that Tim says will be filled at final fit before painting.
Here are some pictures I took today so you can compare. At one point I noticed
that the edge along the longerons needed to be shaved to allow the cabin back
to settle as I shaved the door sill -- it's a bit fuzzy (too lazy to climb inside
to take the pic) but see "interior cabin gap".
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187051#187051
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/interior_cabin_gap_509.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/exterior_cabin_gap_176.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_sill_981.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_sill_2_193.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb08-6-1.pdf
This might be the only time I wish I was a bit slower in building a component
- Just got this one finished a couple of months ago, now i get to drill all those
nice rivets back out.
-Andy
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187054#187054
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Dick,
Can you get it done before you get paint? Hopefully they haven't started
yet.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rsipp
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
I think I am going to be sick at the thought of taking the elevator/
pitch trim apart again! :-(
But! Better now than when I am flying.
David Maib
40559
On Jun 9, 2008, at 7:34 PM, rsipp wrote:
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks to all. Got it to where I feel pretty good about the fit all around. One
nice thing is that all the fiberglass dust made the other scribe lines really
easy to see.
I feel like I just pledged a fraternity and went through hazing by fiberglass.
Nice to feel all the community sharing of experiences.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187057#187057
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Doors/Plexi revisited ... again |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey guys,
I thought I'd add this, nothing really new. I went ahead and sanded out a 1" shallow
with the die grinder, overlapping the plexi and the fiberglass, so that
when I laid a 1" strip of cloth and glassed it in, it would be flush.
Then came back over it with microbead/glass filler to make it really smooth and
ready to prime.
By the way, I used the recommended Weld-on to glue in the windows, but it seems
to me others are putting too much pressure with clamps and that may be causing
the cracks when released. This is not a wood/glue bond where pressure is critical,
it just needs to "float" in place with enough pressure to get any bubbles
out.
The resulting joint is extremely tough with the layer of glass on the joint --
I don't anticipate any cracking or problem with the joint expanding the paint.
One more observation: Others have commented about the paint peeling off the windshield
in rain at 200 MPH. I noticed that where I had ground out the plexi
to receive the fiberglass, it bonds perfectly. But if it spilled over onto un-sanded
plexi, the fiberglass would easily peel off back to where it was sanded.
I imagine the primer and paint will do the same on unsanded plexi, so I have
left a small margin so that I can sand the plexi up to where the paint line
stops. The Weld-on actually melts into the un-sanded plexi.
I've added the "scabs" over the door hinges for the weather seal, but didn't take
a picture of it after I also covered it with cloth/glass and skimmed it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187058#187058
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sanded_medium_209.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/skimmed1_medium_873.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hinge_scab_2_103.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hinge_scab_2_medium_156.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/glassed_medium_206.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rsipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Bob:
I hope so, the airplane is in the paint shop now and was not due for
finish painting until next week. I asked them to "go slow" until I can
get the parts and get over there to install. The pre-paint disassemble
has already been done so that will help a little. I think the mod could
be done after painting but it would be more difficult and nerve racking.
We may have caught this one in the nick of time.
Regards
Dick sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 9:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Dick,
Can you get it done before you get paint? Hopefully they haven't
started yet.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rsipp
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:35 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
As people complete this SB, it will be interesting to see how many others see some
cracks.
That will take some time to fix.
I swear that even after getting the plane flying I work on it 1 hour for every
hour that I fly it.
(not really but sometimes it feels like that)
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: rsipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 6:34:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web
sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | nostalgic airport link |
hey guys,
i found this link pretty interesting, shows some airport history...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
<http://www.airfields-freeman.com/> http://www.airfields-freeman.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Removing AN470 rivets is greatly simplified with Avery's Rivet removal
tool (Part #40053). But removing the rivet shank without mangling the
longerons is going to be a right PITA. Anyone have any suggestions or
useful techniques for removing rivets from thick material? Driving them
out has not worked well for me in the past.
cheers
Ron
-187 (who stupidly thought he was nearly finished)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rsipp
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June 2008 10:05 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Yeah but Scott,
You fly it ALOT!!!!=C2- jealous...another death in the family to deal wit
h today...not super close but close enough..
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Schmidt" <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 7:39:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
As people complete this SB, it will be interesting to see how many others s
ee some cracks.
That will take some time to fix.=C2-
I swear that even after getting the plane flying I work on it 1 hour for ev
ery hour that I fly it.
(not really but sometimes it feels like that)
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: rsipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 6:34:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
====
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Yep but will give me something to do since the DYNON is still not back
from being repaired.
Thick material I take the head off give a tap and with pliers give the
driven part of the rivet a turn to loosen it.
Chris
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
G'day all,
Removing AN470 rivets is greatly simplified with Avery's Rivet removal
tool (Part #40053). But removing the rivet shank without mangling the
longerons is going to be a right PITA. Anyone have any suggestions or
useful techniques for removing rivets from thick material? Driving them
out has not worked well for me in the past.
cheers
Ron
-187 (who stupidly thought he was nearly finished)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rsipp
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June 2008 10:05 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web sight.
We have some work to do.
Dick Sipp
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Service Bulletin |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Not the package I was hoping for from Van's when I got home today! (SB
package on my doorstep)
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin |
So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is going
on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead at those
location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases of cracks
that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress, or
vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized' movement
of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this situation???? I'd
like to hear from the engineers out there.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin |
No science involved but......when the airplane stalls there is a fair amount
of tail buffet......vibration......maybe the demonstrator A/C will be the
only one that develops these cracks due to the type of flying it does??????
It will be interesting to see if anyone else finds the cracks. I plan on
doing my inspection today, will let the list know what I find, if anything.
Let's see, I have a new plane that has two mandatory (in my mind) inspection
requirements, one for the fuel servo and one for the tail. And I had to
disassemble the Vertical Stabilizer already to deal with another SB. I am
with Scott, it seems like I will spend as much time working on the plane as
I will flying it.......but of course that is not really true in that I have
34 hours on the airframe and may have spent 4 hours working on it
(inspections, oil, rigging).
I have yet to really finish the airplane and am finding it hard to do it. I
am still working on the wheel fairings, at the painter finally, and have a
fair amount of interior work to finish up. It is just that when I have free
time and the weather is nice.....I fly.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is going
on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead at those
location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases of cracks
that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress, or
vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized' movement
of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this situation???? I'd
like to hear from the engineers out there.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
| From: | dnorth1(at)optonline.net |
-----Original Message-----
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 12:09:29
To:rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
A good reason for selling my future, beautifully completed RV10 and getting
a two place sailplane. Just have to tell the third person in my family tou
gh luck you can't go today. My single place sailplane, 500+ hours and no pr
oblems. Except for vacuuming and washing, almost maintainence free.
One step forward one step back.
Think I'll keep working toward completion to make sure this cures the probl
em before I tear it down.
John G. 409
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 19:39:35 -0700From: scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.comSubject: R
e: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
As people complete this SB, it will be interesting to see how many others s
ee some cracks. That will take some time to fix. I swear that even after g
etting the plane flying I work on it 1 hour for every hour that I fly it. (
not really but sometimes it feels like that)
Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----From: rsipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>To: rv10-list@m
atronics.comSent: Monday, June 9, 2008 6:34:49 PMSubject: RV10-List: Servic
e Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin |
I would really like to see pictures of what Van's found when the decided to issue
these types of service bulletins. It would benefit us all on what exactly
we should be looking for and where and how severe it was.
Ray Doerr
I just finished putting the tail back together a few week ago after paint. It
never ends.
N519RV (40250) 376 hours.
---- Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
> No science involved but......when the airplane stalls there is a fair amount
> of tail buffet......vibration......maybe the demonstrator A/C will be the
> only one that develops these cracks due to the type of flying it does??????
> It will be interesting to see if anyone else finds the cracks. I plan on
> doing my inspection today, will let the list know what I find, if anything.
>
> Let's see, I have a new plane that has two mandatory (in my mind) inspection
> requirements, one for the fuel servo and one for the tail. And I had to
> disassemble the Vertical Stabilizer already to deal with another SB. I am
> with Scott, it seems like I will spend as much time working on the plane as
> I will flying it.......but of course that is not really true in that I have
> 34 hours on the airframe and may have spent 4 hours working on it
> (inspections, oil, rigging).
>
> I have yet to really finish the airplane and am finding it hard to do it. I
> am still working on the wheel fairings, at the painter finally, and have a
> fair amount of interior work to finish up. It is just that when I have free
> time and the weather is nice.....I fly.
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:04 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>
>
>
> So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
> wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is going
> on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead at those
> location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases of cracks
> that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress, or
> vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
> someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
> IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized' movement
> of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this situation???? I'd
> like to hear from the engineers out there.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> > *
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin |
When I call Van's for questions I am usually told that its fine to have
some issues I feel may be a structural concern (aka replacing rivets with a
pop rivet, etc). The way I see SB's from Van's are that it's something
serious enough that they want it resolved. They admit there is something
that IS a structural shortfall/concern and should be improved/replaced.
Many have complained of shortfalls on some parts from Van's , but Van's has
not always sent out an SB on it (WD-415 was improved to resolve a shortfall
but not replaced with parts in the mail, there is the landing gear shimmy,
etc)
My point is regardless of how bad the crack is.. Van's is sending parts out
for everyone to replace as needed. As the builder it's up to us to determine
if we want that extra layer of protection, even if the crack never occurs,
I'm with do the work now versus stressing about it later- Like insurance I
sure hope it's never an issue but I'm glad I did all I could to protect
myself if it ever does. Nothing wrong with making it stronger.
Deems has a great point about.. why? maybe understanding the trim issue or
other as to why this SB is needed might resolve other issues in the future.
John Cox, maybe you can get the "rest of the story" for us.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>
> I would really like to see pictures of what Van's found when the decided
> to issue these types of service bulletins. It would benefit us all on
> what exactly we should be looking for and where and how severe it was.
>
> Ray Doerr
> I just finished putting the tail back together a few week ago after paint.
> It never ends.
>
>
> N519RV (40250) 376 hours.
>
> ---- Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>>
>> No science involved but......when the airplane stalls there is a fair
>> amount
>> of tail buffet......vibration......maybe the demonstrator A/C will be the
>> only one that develops these cracks due to the type of flying it
>> does??????
>> It will be interesting to see if anyone else finds the cracks. I plan on
>> doing my inspection today, will let the list know what I find, if
>> anything.
>>
>> Let's see, I have a new plane that has two mandatory (in my mind)
>> inspection
>> requirements, one for the fuel servo and one for the tail. And I had to
>> disassemble the Vertical Stabilizer already to deal with another SB. I
>> am
>> with Scott, it seems like I will spend as much time working on the plane
>> as
>> I will flying it.......but of course that is not really true in that I
>> have
>> 34 hours on the airframe and may have spent 4 hours working on it
>> (inspections, oil, rigging).
>>
>> I have yet to really finish the airplane and am finding it hard to do it.
>> I
>> am still working on the wheel fairings, at the painter finally, and have
>> a
>> fair amount of interior work to finish up. It is just that when I have
>> free
>> time and the weather is nice.....I fly.
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:04 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>>
>>
>>
>> So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
>> wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is going
>> on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead at those
>> location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases of cracks
>> that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress, or
>> vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
>> someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
>> IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized' movement
>> of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this situation???? I'd
>> like to hear from the engineers out there.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>> > *
>> > *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)AOL.COM |
The likes of cirrus ,cessna beech and commander all have S.B. and A.D.s.Cirrus
had many in its first 150 aircraft.It is to our and our families advantage that
vans provides these services,most kitplanes are not around long enough to issue
these bulletines.It is a pain in the ass to comply but that is the reality
of airplane ownership.I just reassembled my aircraft after paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Good idea. Remember the V tail Bonanza: fixed a few times before it finally
had enough rivets and doublers in the tail.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
A good reason for selling my future, beautifully completed RV10 and getting
a two place sailplane. Just have to tell the third person in my family tough
luck you can't go today. My single place sailplane, 500+ hours and no
problems. Except for vacuuming and washing, almost maintainence free.
One step forward one step back.
Think I'll keep working toward completion to make sure this cures the
problem before I tear it down.
John G. 409
_____
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 19:39:35 -0700
From: scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
As people complete this SB, it will be interesting to see how many others
see some cracks.
That will take some time to fix.
I swear that even after getting the plane flying I work on it 1 hour for
every hour that I fly it.
(not really but sometimes it feels like that)
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: rsipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 6:34:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin |
Just talked with my buddy at the BAC and we looked at the digital pictures I
took of the area this morning. The problem area as determined by Vans is the
tab that is riveted to the side of the longeron. He noticed that the tab is
not radiused and we may be able to radius it and prevent a crack. Also since
we installed the outside fasteners as an interference fit HiLoc there is no
possible movement in that area.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
When I call Van's for questions I am usually told that its fine to have
some issues I feel may be a structural concern (aka replacing rivets with a
pop rivet, etc). The way I see SB's from Van's are that it's something
serious enough that they want it resolved. They admit there is something
that IS a structural shortfall/concern and should be improved/replaced.
Many have complained of shortfalls on some parts from Van's , but Van's has
not always sent out an SB on it (WD-415 was improved to resolve a shortfall
but not replaced with parts in the mail, there is the landing gear shimmy,
etc)
My point is regardless of how bad the crack is.. Van's is sending parts out
for everyone to replace as needed. As the builder it's up to us to determine
if we want that extra layer of protection, even if the crack never occurs,
I'm with do the work now versus stressing about it later- Like insurance I
sure hope it's never an issue but I'm glad I did all I could to protect
myself if it ever does. Nothing wrong with making it stronger.
Deems has a great point about.. why? maybe understanding the trim issue or
other as to why this SB is needed might resolve other issues in the future.
John Cox, maybe you can get the "rest of the story" for us.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>
> I would really like to see pictures of what Van's found when the
> decided to issue these types of service bulletins. It would benefit
> us all on what exactly we should be looking for and where and how severe
it was.
>
> Ray Doerr
> I just finished putting the tail back together a few week ago after paint.
> It never ends.
>
>
> N519RV (40250) 376 hours.
>
> ---- Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>>
>> No science involved but......when the airplane stalls there is a fair
>> amount of tail buffet......vibration......maybe the demonstrator A/C
>> will be the only one that develops these cracks due to the type of
>> flying it does??????
>> It will be interesting to see if anyone else finds the cracks. I
>> plan on doing my inspection today, will let the list know what I
>> find, if anything.
>>
>> Let's see, I have a new plane that has two mandatory (in my mind)
>> inspection requirements, one for the fuel servo and one for the tail.
>> And I had to disassemble the Vertical Stabilizer already to deal with
>> another SB. I am with Scott, it seems like I will spend as much time
>> working on the plane as I will flying it.......but of course that is
>> not really true in that I have
>> 34 hours on the airframe and may have spent 4 hours working on it
>> (inspections, oil, rigging).
>>
>> I have yet to really finish the airplane and am finding it hard to do it.
>> I
>> am still working on the wheel fairings, at the painter finally, and
>> have a fair amount of interior work to finish up. It is just that
>> when I have free time and the weather is nice.....I fly.
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
>> Davis
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:04 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>>
>>
>>
>> So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
>> wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is
>> going on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead
>> at those location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases
>> of cracks that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress,
>> or vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
>> someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
>> IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized'
>> movement of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this
>> situation???? I'd like to hear from the engineers out there.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>> > *
>> > *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin |
Just spoke with Vans and the pictures will be going up on their website. The
crack was near the tab that steps up to attach to the longeron. He did agree
that HiLocs could be installed there probably easier than rivets and that it
may be possible to install the doublers without pulling the top up
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
I would really like to see pictures of what Van's found when the decided to
issue these types of service bulletins. It would benefit us all on what
exactly we should be looking for and where and how severe it was.
Ray Doerr
I just finished putting the tail back together a few week ago after paint.
It never ends.
N519RV (40250) 376 hours.
---- Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
> No science involved but......when the airplane stalls there is a fair
> amount of tail buffet......vibration......maybe the demonstrator A/C
> will be the only one that develops these cracks due to the type of flying
it does??????
> It will be interesting to see if anyone else finds the cracks. I plan
> on doing my inspection today, will let the list know what I find, if
anything.
>
> Let's see, I have a new plane that has two mandatory (in my mind)
> inspection requirements, one for the fuel servo and one for the tail.
> And I had to disassemble the Vertical Stabilizer already to deal with
> another SB. I am with Scott, it seems like I will spend as much time
> working on the plane as I will flying it.......but of course that is
> not really true in that I have
> 34 hours on the airframe and may have spent 4 hours working on it
> (inspections, oil, rigging).
>
> I have yet to really finish the airplane and am finding it hard to do
> it. I am still working on the wheel fairings, at the painter finally,
> and have a fair amount of interior work to finish up. It is just that
> when I have free time and the weather is nice.....I fly.
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:04 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin
>
>
>
> So, ....... we've got a 'fix . . .' (a.k.a. SB) but it leaves me
> wondering about what caused the cracks in the 1st place? What is
> going on that would / is causing a crack/s to appear in that bulkhead
> at those location? (Root Cause) I'm not an engineer, but most cases of
> cracks that I've heard of are the result of fatigue due to stress, or
> vibration, or ........? I recall a past thread that spoke about
> someone who had witnessed the regular 'twisting' of the horizontal stab.
> IIRC the suspected cause of the twist was the 'unsynchronized'
> movement of the trim tabs. Could this be contributing to this
> situation???? I'd like to hear from the engineers out there.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> > *
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1258 |
My discussion with Vans indicated the tab riveted to the longeron just to
the left of the red collar is the tab that showed cracks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
The truth is I get alot of enjoyment out of the flying, the work and maintenance.
I don't have to work on it as much as I do but I want to make sure I am at
the front of the useful life curve on everything. When you change the oil every
25 hours, new brakes every 150 - 200 hours, prop lube every 100 hours, tire
rotation about every 150 hours, new plugs in the electronic ignition every 100
- 125 hours, the annual every year and then little things that you want to
improve, you put some time into the plane.
But in return for all the work I have a totally awesome cross country machine that
I can travel with and is completely reliable. When I get ready to go somewhere
I don't even think twice about something failing because I know the maintenance
has been completed and everything is in proper working order. With a
Cirrus or other production plane, you really have no idea if something is wrong
because you don't get the feel for when things are 50% worn and need replacing.
With a new plane we can probably expect a few issues like this. It is still one
of the most fun four place planes out there.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 9:08:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
A good reason for selling my future, beautifully completed RV10 and getting a
two place sailplane. Just have to tell the third person in my family tough luck
you can't go today. My single place sailplane, 500+ hours and no problems. Except
for vacuuming and washing, almost maintainence free.
One step forward one step back.
Think I'll keep working toward completion to make sure this cures the problem before
I tear it down.
John G. 409
________________________________
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 19:39:35 -0700
From: scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
As people complete this SB, it will be interesting to see how many others see some
cracks.
That will take some time to fix.
I swear that even after getting the plane flying I work on it 1 hour for every
hour that I fly it.
(not really but sometimes it feels like that)
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: rsipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2008 6:34:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
Just saw a new service bulletin on the RV10 on Van's web
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
UmVnYXJkaW5nIFRpbSdzIGNvbW1lbnQNCg0KIk9uZSBwZXJzb24gc3VnZ2VzdGVkIHVzaW5nIGEg
aGktcmVzIGRpZ2l0YWwgY2FtZXJhIChvciBIRCB2aWRlbyBjYW0gZm9yIHRoYXQgbWF0dGVyLi4u
SSBqdXN0IGdvdCBvbmUpIHRvIGRvIHRoZSBpbnNwZWN0aW9uLg0KDQpQcm9iYWJseSBhIGdyZWF0
IGlkZWEuIg0KDQogDQoNCkkganVzdCBjYW1lIGFjcm9zcyB0aGlzIGRldmljZSBjYWxsZWQgYSBR
dWlja1BvZCAofiQyNS4wMCkgT25lIGNvdWxkIHNldCB0aGUgdGltZXIgZm9yIGEgcGhvdG8gb3Ig
anVzdCB2aWRlbyB0aGUgYXJlYToNCg0KIA0KDQogDQoNCiANCg0KIA0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1258 |
IF THAT IS INDEED THE PROBLEM, IT SEEMS IN MY OPINION GETTING RID OF THE TA
B WOULD BE BETTER THAN TRYING TO USE A DOUBLER. THE TAB CURRENTLY AS IS IS
LIKE THE PULL TAB ON A COKE CAN, IT SERVES AS A WAY TO START THE TEAR.
JOHN G. 409> From: dlm46007(at)cox.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject:
RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1258> Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:51:21 -0700> > > M
y discussion with Vans indicated the tab riveted to the longeron just to> t
he left of the red collar is the tab that showed cracks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
By using a digital camera to tap a few pictures of the area, I'll bet you can put
the camera in the rear inspect cover opening and be able to see this area well
instead of removing the emp fairing which has a ton more screws. Thoughts?
Ray Doerr
---- Robin Marks wrote:
> Regarding Tim's comment
>
> "One person suggested using a hi-res digital camera (or HD video cam for that
matter...I just got one) to do the inspection.
>
> Probably a great idea."
>
>
>
> I just came across this device called a QuickPod (~$25.00) One could set the
timer for a photo or just video the area:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1258 |
we also considered getting rid of the tag but it will take a pencil grinder
and some contortions getting a view of the work while grinding. As an
alternative we are considering creating a radius so that the sharp corner
does not exist and prevent the tear in the first place. If that is not
sufficient and we do install the doublers,we will not pull up the top but
work through the top holes and probably install doublers that will also hook
to the external skin as well. a flange for the part exist but no pilot holes
are in it. With just 33 hours TT we have a while to think on this problem.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1258
IF THAT IS INDEED THE PROBLEM, IT SEEMS IN MY OPINION GETTING RID OF THE TAB
WOULD BE BETTER THAN TRYING TO USE A DOUBLER. THE TAB CURRENTLY AS IS IS
LIKE THE PULL TAB ON A COKE CAN, IT SERVES AS A WAY TO START THE TEAR.
JOHN G. 409
> From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1258
> Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:51:21 -0700
>
>
> My discussion with Vans indicated the tab riveted to the longeron just to
> the left of the red collar is the tab that showed cracks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling out 1/8" rivets (was Service Bulletin 08-6-1) |
This is what I do:
1. Use #30 bit to drill into the rivet head just enough so that you can
pop it off.
2. Use #40 bit to drill into the shank of the rivet. Be careful to
drill straight. The objective is to drill out the center of the shank and
not touch the adjacent material.
3. Use a vise grip pliers on the manufactured head to pull out the now
hollow rivet shank.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (425 hrs)
RV-10 (ailerons)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 11:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin 08-6-1
G'day all,
Removing AN470 rivets is greatly simplified with Avery's Rivet removal tool
(Part #40053). But removing the rivet shank without mangling the longerons
is going to be a right PITA. Anyone have any suggestions or useful
techniques for removing rivets from thick material? Driving them out has
not worked well for me in the past.
cheers
Ron
-187 (who stupidly thought he was nearly finished)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I just got this from Ken at Van's. This explains where the damage
occurred. He said that it could possibly be because their plane is
used a little more harshly than the average because of the transition
training, that is no license to just ignore it, which I don't think
many were considering anyway. Just FYI.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
It would be great if you guys would add whether you are talking K. Scott
or K. Krueger when offering advice from VANS. Maybe they have a Ken in
shipping, Ken on cleanup and Ken in accounting. One is their propaganda
minister and the other is a certified professional aeronautical
engineer. One is fairly verbose and the other fairly quiet and
conservative.
This reminds me of many newspaper movie reviews that read "Ken G. of the
#$% says it is a summer blockbuster hit".
JC
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 4:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SB Info
I just got this from Ken at Van's. This explains where the damage
occurred. He said that it could possibly be because their plane is used
a little more harshly than the average because of the transition
training, that is no license to just ignore it, which I don't think many
were considering anyway. Just FYI.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
Did the inspection tonight and all is well after 34 hours. Took about 15
minutes and was easy to get a good look with the fairing off.
Rene'
N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT Serial Connections |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
We are in the process of wiring our panel and would like to know if there
is anyone who has the same combination of avionics we have. We are
running into problems with the number of available serial ports to
communicate with. We are also uncertain as to what information is
communicated via the inter panel communication channels.
Is there anyone else with this combination:
(3) GRT HS Displays (One display has the ARINC 429, One Display has an
internal GPS, The last display is 'plain')
GRT XM Weather
Garmin GNS430W
Garmin SL30
Garmin GTX327
Garmin GMA347
Tru-Trak VSGVII
Anyone else already been through this? If so we would really like the
opportunity to pick your brain.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 08-6-1 |
I talked to another builder last night who had just completed
the SB on his newly painted but not-yet-flying RV-10. In fact,
he had JUST finished mounting the tail and was finalizing his
trim tab settings when he got the SB.
Sounds like the time involved is less than 4 hours for disassembly,
and a little over 4 hours for re-assembly, and that the riveting
itself is very easy. So you can plan on probably being able to
tackle it in a 10 hour day or less if everything goes smoothly.
I'm not sure exactly when I'll get mine done, but I'm hoping to
make it relatively soon, so I'll report back too.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
Jason. I have an almost identical set up with the exception of Garmin
530W and no SL30. Call me later today 772-460-3907, say about 4:00 PM
eastern and I can fire up the panel and read you the set up. As an
alternative, I think that I can back up my settings and email them to
you. You may also contact GRT. They are VERY helpful.
Regards
Rob.
On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:25 AM, jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote:
>
> We are in the process of wiring our panel and would like to know if
> there is anyone who has the same combination of avionics we have.
> We are running into problems with the number of available serial
> ports to communicate with. We are also uncertain as to what
> information is communicated via the inter panel communication
> channels.
>
> Is there anyone else with this combination:
> (3) GRT HS Displays (One display has the ARINC 429, One Display has
> an internal GPS, The last display is 'plain')
> GRT XM Weather
> Garmin GNS430W
> Garmin SL30
> Garmin GTX327
> Garmin GMA347
> Tru-Trak VSGVII
>
> Anyone else already been through this? If so we would really like
> the opportunity to pick your brain.
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
> 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
> Sheboygan Falls, WI
> #40617 Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT Serial Connections |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Jason,
I sent you an email off list - I have almost identical except 480
instead of 430W and a 330 instead of 327.
Bob
N442PM flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
We are in the process of wiring our panel and would like to know if
there is anyone who has the same combination of avionics we have. We
are running into problems with the number of available serial ports to
communicate with. We are also uncertain as to what information is
communicated via the inter panel communication channels.
Is there anyone else with this combination:
(3) GRT HS Displays (One display has the ARINC 429, One Display has an
internal GPS, The last display is 'plain')
GRT XM Weather
Garmin GNS430W
Garmin SL30
Garmin GTX327
Garmin GMA347
Tru-Trak VSGVII
Anyone else already been through this? If so we would really like the
opportunity to pick your brain.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)MSN.COM> |
The thing that bothers my mind about this type of repair/doubler is that th
e bulkhead is made of relatively thin material. We are then backing it up w
ith a doubler that is to structurely reinforce the area, but in the process
we are fastening it onto the area with more holes/rivets. If the strain is
not entirely transfered to the entire area of the interface between the do
ubler and the bulkhead, then the stain will be more so transferred to the f
astening locations/rivets and thus can't those holes increase the chance of
crack propogation.
Why is not a flexible bonding method of fastening the double a possibly bet
ter avenue as it would tranfer the strain over a much larger surface area??
?
JOhn G. 409
From: jesse(at)saintaviation.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List:
SB InfoDate: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:20:51 -0400I just got this from Ken at Va
n's. This explains where the damage occurred. He said that it could possi
bly be because their plane is used a little more harshly than the average b
ecause of the transition training, that is no license to just ignore it, wh
ich I don't think many were considering anyway. Just FYI.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I spoke with Scott R at Vans and the pictures of the actual crack should be
on their site by tomorrow. I don't believe that the diagram as previously
reported is correct, as the flat version of the part would actually have two
tabs at the outboard top edge. My understanding is that the crack would be
in the tab that is riveted to the longeron.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
This seems to be where we get to rely on decades worth of aluminum
aircraft engineering knowledge. Using known materials and a reliable
connector process applied in a specific way, we have a reliable fix.
Though it's probably noteworthy that the same approach was taken with
the original design that is now showing cracks (but no failures).
I'm guessing that a flexible bonding method might be superior - but I
have a difficult time thinking of how a reliable bonding process could
be defined and followed reliably in my shop. Temperature, surface
treatment and all that. I can deburr the parts and drive a dozen rivets
to a spec. I'm never 100% sure my last epoxy job is to spec.
Bill "still worrying the doors into place" Watson
John Gonzalez wrote:
> The thing that bothers my mind about this type of repair/doubler is
> that the bulkhead is made of relatively thin material. We are then
> backing it up with a doubler that is to structurely reinforce the
> area, but in the process we are fastening it onto the area with more
> holes/rivets. If the strain is not entirely transfered to the entire
> area of the interface between the doubler and the bulkhead, then the
> stain will be more so transferred to the fastening locations/rivets
> and thus can't those holes increase the chance of crack propogation.
>
> Why is not a flexible bonding method of fastening the double a
> possibly better avenue as it would tranfer the strain over a much
> larger surface area???
>
> JOhn G. 409
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
The way I have happily gone building the plane is thinking that by
deburring the edges and holes and assuring they are rounded spreads the
stress over the specific area. With rivets that are properly squeezed
(read not excessively, which would stress the hole) I think the doubler
would have enough holes spread out to diminish any one area except as a
whole and in turn be a stronger solution than before adding it..
P
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SB Info
The thing that bothers my mind about this type of repair/doubler is that
the bulkhead is made of relatively thin material. We are then backing it
up with a doubler that is to structurely reinforce the area, but in the
process we are fastening it onto the area with more holes/rivets. If the
strain is not entirely transfered to the entire area of the interface
between the doubler and the bulkhead, then the stain will be more so
transferred to the fastening locations/rivets and thus can't those holes
increase the chance of crack propogation.
Why is not a flexible bonding method of fastening the double a possibly
better avenue as it would tranfer the strain over a much larger surface
area???
JOhn G. 409
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: jesse(at)saintaviation.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: SB Info
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:20:51 -0400
I just got this from Ken at Van's. This explains where the damage
occurred. He said that it could possibly be because their plane is used
a little more harshly than the average because of the transition
training, that is no license to just ignore it, which I don't think many
were considering anyway. Just FYI.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT and 430 waas upgrade-help |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Has anyone with a grt panel had the waas upgrade.If so have you been succesful
in getting the glideslope and localizer to display on the grt.I reconfigured the
gps to the arnc settings per grand rapids but the gps messages that it is not
recieving the arnc.I hesitate to change the wiring to display the waas glideslope
info until I can solve the ILS display probem.The garmin indicator displays
as normal.Thanks-jim? 728DD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Jason,
Your GRT configuration is and will probably continue to be a popular configuration.
I still have not decided on which solution I'm going with and will probably
not for a while yet even though most of the electrical work is done. Why
don't you share with the list what you are trying to accomplish. Those that
have sent suggestion off list, might I suggest sharing with the list for those
that are considering this same configuration.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/10PanelGRT.jpg
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/index.html
Remember, for each transmit (Tx) serial line you can have multiple receivers (Rx).
Many of your listed devices only require one or the other. Only a few require
both Tx and Rx.
GNS430; Tx Aviation data to EFIS1/2, GTX327, TT VSGV
EFIS; Tx Icarus altitude data to GNS430, GTX327
EFIS; Tx / Rx to - from SL-30
I'll have to look up what the GRT XM Weather requires.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Jason. I have an almost identical set up with the exception of Garmin
> 530W and no SL30. Call me later today 772-460-3907, say about 4:00 PM
> eastern and I can fire up the panel and read you the set up. As an
> alternative, I think that I can back up my settings and email them to
> you. You may also contact GRT. They are VERY helpful.
>
> Regards
> Rob.
>
> On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:25 AM, jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote:
>
> >
> > We are in the process of wiring our panel and would like to know if
> > there is anyone who has the same combination of avionics we have.
> > We are running into problems with the number of available serial
> > ports to communicate with. We are also uncertain as to what
> > information is communicated via the inter panel communication
> > channels.
> >
> > Is there anyone else with this combination:
> > (3) GRT HS Displays (One display has the ARINC 429, One Display has
> > an internal GPS, The last display is 'plain')
> > GRT XM Weather
> > Garmin GNS430W
> > Garmin SL30
> > Garmin GTX327
> > Garmin GMA347
> > Tru-Trak VSGVII
> >
> > Anyone else already been through this? If so we would really like
> > the opportunity to pick your brain.
> >
> > Thanks, Jason Kreidler
> > 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
> > Sheboygan Falls, WI
> > #40617 Finishing
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT Serial Connections |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Using GRT Wx with the WS/HS versions of the GRT requires high speed
serial inputs to each DU (as opposed to using inter-DU communication).
When the new HX displays are on the scene they will use USB directly to
the Wx receiver (processor box not needed with the HX). Only ports 1 &
2 on the WS/HS support the 115,200 high speed serial rate. For
redundancy there are some cases where a single device (like the
AHRS/ADC) feeds multiple DUs.
I'd be happy to email my connectivity and configuration documents to
those interested. My panel config has the following so it's pretty
complete starting point:
GRT (3 screens)
PMA-8000B
SL-30
GNS-480
GTX-330
TruTrak Digiflight II-VSGV
GRT Weather receiver/processor
CO Guardian 353
AOA Pro
It is a relatively minor wiring difference between the GNS-480 I'm using
and a 430W and doesn't impact the serial port configuration.
Bob
N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
Jason,
Your GRT configuration is and will probably continue to be a popular
configuration. I still have not decided on which solution I'm going
with and will probably not for a while yet even though most of the
electrical work is done. Why don't you share with the list what you
are trying to accomplish. Those that have sent suggestion off list,
might I suggest sharing with the list for those that are considering
this same configuration.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/10PanelGRT.jpg
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/index.html
Remember, for each transmit (Tx) serial line you can have multiple
receivers (Rx). Many of your listed devices only require one or the
other. Only a few require both Tx and Rx.
GNS430; Tx Aviation data to EFIS1/2, GTX327, TT VSGV
EFIS; Tx Icarus altitude data to GNS430, GTX327
EFIS; Tx / Rx to - from SL-30
I'll have to look up what the GRT XM Weather requires.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
I have pretty much the same set-up. Call Carlos at GRT, he was very
helpfull. I e-mailed him my set-up and he sent back a spread sheet with
all the different wires and serial requirments. We have powered mine up
and so far it all works. Call me if you like.
Thane States
704-907-7402
----- Original Message -----
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 8:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
We are in the process of wiring our panel and would like to know if
there is anyone who has the same combination of avionics we have. We
are running into problems with the number of available serial ports to
communicate with. We are also uncertain as to what information is
communicated via the inter panel communication channels.
Is there anyone else with this combination:
(3) GRT HS Displays (One display has the ARINC 429, One Display has an
internal GPS, The last display is 'plain')
GRT XM Weather
Garmin GNS430W
Garmin SL30
Garmin GTX327
Garmin GMA347
Tru-Trak VSGVII
Anyone else already been through this? If so we would really like the
opportunity to pick your brain.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
I've been thinking about doing something to this area for some time. What I
had decided to do, but had not done yet, is to put a mirror image angle on the
aft side of F-1010 like on the forward side. I would then have two angles
with a total of four bolts to the longeron. Not knowing all the details of the
fix, they seem to treating a symptom and not the cause. It seems that an
additional angle would reduce twist and also strengthen the attachment. I am
planning to do this in addition to Van's SB. I would like to hear what others
think.
In addition, I had already planned to add another angle at the aft
portion of where the VS attaches to the tailcone.
Dave Syvertson
40625 (fuselage)
**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I just finished looking at our plane. No cracks after 141 hours. The
inspection is easy with the emp fairing off. I'm not going to pull the tail
off unless more people find cracks or unless there's a better reason.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
agreed. The aircraft I would like to hear about are those who flew with a
misrigged trim and experienced twisting force on opposite halves of the
elevator.
33 hours and obviously not enough time to crack?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SB
I just finished looking at our plane. No cracks after 141 hours. The
inspection is easy with the emp fairing off. I'm not going to pull the tail
off unless more people find cracks or unless there's a better reason.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Check the vans site ; the service bulletin now includes pictures of the
crack and installation of the doublers. Their original description of a
crack in the tab is incorrect. see the pictures
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Curious that the crack appeared on the left side. Seems like that is the
same side that a mis rigged trim setup would cause twisting of the elevator
halves in flight under some circumstances.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
A few observations...
1) Is the doubler going to be thick/strong enough to keep that from
happening? That's a pretty hefty crack. Seems the crack will just be on
the edge of the doubler if things are moving around that much. Antenna
doublers are supposed to be secured along 3 sides.
I'm wondering if the rib was "forced" into position possibly installed with
a bit of a bending load on it?
2) The J-Channel is contacting the bulkhead... Didn't we just discuss this?
3) I won't mention the nice long, uniform scratches in the side skin.
4) Anyone know what the pop rivets in front of the F-1010 are.... data
plate?
4) I'm with Dave... must be the Continental :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
Oops forgot my name on the last one...
Ben Westfall
#40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
I doubt it was the engine. I just talked with someone who flew the 220
version for transition training September 2007. He squawked the aircraft for
inadequate up trim. I have flown the 540 version for 33 hours and never
gotten the trim setting more than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up trim
suggest to me that a improperly rigged trim system might have the two
elevator halves fighting each other and twisting the elevators and stressing
the horizontal stab.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
Oops forgot my name on the last one...
Ben Westfall
#40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
After looking closely at the pictures, it appears that the metal is not only
cracked, but also "crinkled." If you look at the skin to the left of the
crack, it appears to also be deformed which concurs with the failure of the
bulkhead. First thought is there was substantial down pressure
(compression) on the longeron and on the F1010A angle at this point.
Except when rolling, would there ever be uneven force on the HS? And even
then I would think the forces would be very little. Would it be possible to
detect equal tensional stress on the other side?
I agree with the twisted HS theory.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
> I doubt it was the engine. I just talked with someone who flew the 220
> version for transition training September 2007. He squawked the aircraft
> for
> inadequate up trim. I have flown the 540 version for 33 hours and never
> gotten the trim setting more than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up trim
> suggest to me that a improperly rigged trim system might have the two
> elevator halves fighting each other and twisting the elevators and
> stressing
> the horizontal stab.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
> Oops forgot my name on the last one...
>
> Ben Westfall
> #40579
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
> This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
Dave, i agreeI
If folks take the time and go back through the archive and read the
original posts (12/06) which witnessed the 'twist' and the follow on
discussion regarding the Elevator trim rigging and how following Van's
plan instructions, can and will result in a twisted HS. the situation
described there is entirely consistent with the results depicted in the
picture of the crack. I believe that there is a VERY high likelihood
that the root cause of the crack lies in a twisting moment induced by
the asynchronous movement of the elevator trim tabs. I was the individ
David refers to that flew 220RV late last year, and there was not enough
up elevator trim available to take the significant back pressure off the
elevator during landings. I believe this is also consistent with the
trim rigging and twisting explanation. Here's an excerpt from my post
following transition training.
**This brings up the next point and that is elevator authority. N220RV had
NO balast in the rear when we flew. We initiated our approach with 20
degrees of flaps (second detent), Turning downwind we added full flaps.
With full flaps there is NOT enough trim to take the back pressure off
of the stick. I found that the back pressure was much more than I found
comfortable, and flew some landings with 2 hands! Makes it
difficult/impossible to develop a fingertip feel on landings. The other
item has been reported by several others and that is when landing it
takes the full aft movement of the stick. The topic has been discussed &
debated previously, but in my opinion with only 2 people and no
baggage/balast there is not enough elevator. Towards the end of 8.1
hours, I was able to get some of the rust scrubbed off, got a little
less shy about the rapidly approaching ground, and found a way to
'muscle' a couple of good landings. then Mike says " let me show you
something, .... we took another trip around the pattern flew exactly as
before only on our base leg after extending full flaps, he had me 'blip'
off a degree or two of flap at a time until the back pressure I'd grown
unaccustomed to holding was gone..... then flew the rest of the landing
!!!!! WOW!!! what a difference !!!!! Mike why did you keep this little
secret to the end??????? the plane landed almost identical to full
flaps, but the 'feel' was completely different and actually a joy!!!!!**
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> After looking closely at the pictures, it appears that the metal is
> not only cracked, but also "crinkled." If you look at the skin to the
> left of the crack, it appears to also be deformed which concurs with
> the failure of the bulkhead. First thought is there was substantial
> down pressure (compression) on the longeron and on the F1010A angle at
> this point. Except when rolling, would there ever be uneven force on
> the HS? And even then I would think the forces would be very
> little. Would it be possible to detect equal tensional stress on the
> other side?
>
> I agree with the twisted HS theory.
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
>
> - Original Message ----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:29 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
>>
>> I doubt it was the engine. I just talked with someone who flew the 220
>> version for transition training September 2007. He squawked the
>> aircraft for
>> inadequate up trim. I have flown the 540 version for 33 hours and never
>> gotten the trim setting more than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up
>> trim
>> suggest to me that a improperly rigged trim system might have the two
>> elevator halves fighting each other and twisting the elevators and
>> stressing
>> the horizontal stab.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>>
>>
>>
>> Oops forgot my name on the last one...
>>
>> Ben Westfall
>> #40579
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>>
>>
>>
>> This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Harmonic resonance from the new Eggenfellner Gen 3 drive? |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
This might be of interest to some...from the GlaStar list:
= = = = =
I was reading the Eggenfellner list today and saw that several guys are now
reporting harmonic resonance as a result of installing the new Gen 3 drive.
It doesn't appear to matter what prop or engine you are using it with since
both the 2.5 and 3.0 soobs and the Quinti prop and the MT props are
involved.
So, guys are saying they are hearing a repeating beat sound about once per
second.
Would anyone from this group that has installed the Gen 3 and been using it
for a while care to comment on this? This sounds a bit concerning.
Jan Eggenfellner doesn't deny that this is happening, but says it can be
solved with proper prop installation, balancing, keeping things from
touching the cowl and so on.
So, I'm just wondering if this is just something that only a handful of guys
are experiencing or ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
I and another RV10, both of us flying, on my field performed the SB
yesterday and found no cracks. As Dave said it's fairly easy to perform
the inspection with the emp fairing off, with a flex mirror and flash
light. I have about 125 hours and I think the other 10 has about 60
hours. I plan on waiting on pulling the tail off for now and do like
Dave and continue the inspections.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: SB
I just finished looking at our plane. No cracks after 141 hours.
The
inspection is easy with the emp fairing off. I'm not going to
pull the tail
off unless more people find cracks or unless there's a better
reason.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
That was the first thing I noticed too. It certainly looks like the cracks were
induced from a repeated compression and release of bulkhead in that area.
Doublers may only be a band aid for this and I bet we will see more of these
as the fleet gain hours. If it really is being partially caused by asymmetric
trim tab loading, seems like someone could come up with a mod fairly quickly.
I know I'll be looking at the trim servo setup while I have it off.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
After looking closely at the pictures, it appears that the metal is not only
cracked, but also "crinkled." If you look at the skin to the left of the
crack, it appears to also be deformed which concurs with the failure of the
bulkhead. First thought is there was substantial down pressure
(compression) on the longeron and on the F1010A angle at this point.
Except when rolling, would there ever be uneven force on the HS? And even
then I would think the forces would be very little. Would it be possible to
detect equal tensional stress on the other side?
I agree with the twisted HS theory.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
> I doubt it was the engine. I just talked with someone who flew the 220
> version for transition training September 2007. He squawked the aircraft
> for
> inadequate up trim. I have flown the 540 version for 33 hours and never
> gotten the trim setting more than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up trim
> suggest to me that a improperly rigged trim system might have the two
> elevator halves fighting each other and twisting the elevators and
> stressing
> the horizontal stab.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
> Oops forgot my name on the last one...
>
> Ben Westfall
> #40579
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
> This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Harmonic resonance from the new Eggenfellner Gen 3 drive? |
Hmm, surprised he didn't catch that in his testing phase of the design.
;-) Bet you money there is an "improvement" by this time next year and he
denies any issues right up to that point.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 5:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Harmonic resonance from the new Eggenfellner Gen 3 driv
e?
This might be of interest to some...from the GlaStar list:
= = = =
I was reading the Eggenfellner list today and saw that several guys are now
reporting harmonic resonance as a result of installing the new Gen 3 drive
. It doesn't appear to matter what prop or engine you are using it with sin
ce both the 2.5 and 3.0 soobs and the Quinti prop and the MT props are invo
lved.
So, guys are saying they are hearing a repeating beat sound about once per
second.
Would anyone from this group that has installed the Gen 3 and been using it
for a while care to comment on this? This sounds a bit concerning.
Jan Eggenfellner doesn't deny that this is happening, but says it can be so
lved with proper prop installation, balancing, keeping things from touching
the cowl and so on.
So, I'm just wondering if this is just something that only a handful of guy
s are experiencing or ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Interesting. When I flew with Alex D. for my transition training he
carried 2 cases of oil in the baggage area in his IO-540 bird. Also, he
said that he normally lands with half flaps (he has a flap positioning
system) unless there are rear seat passengers. When only front seat
occupants there is a very noticeable nose down pitching when going from
half to full flaps.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 1:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
Dave, i agreeI
If folks take the time and go back through the archive and read the
original posts (12/06) which witnessed the 'twist' and the follow on
discussion regarding the Elevator trim rigging and how following Van's
plan instructions, can and will result in a twisted HS. the situation
described there is entirely consistent with the results depicted in the
picture of the crack. I believe that there is a VERY high likelihood
that the root cause of the crack lies in a twisting moment induced by
the asynchronous movement of the elevator trim tabs. I was the individ
David refers to that flew 220RV late last year, and there was not enough
up elevator trim available to take the significant back pressure off the
elevator during landings. I believe this is also consistent with the
trim rigging and twisting explanation. Here's an excerpt from my post
following transition training.
**This brings up the next point and that is elevator authority. N220RV
had
NO balast in the rear when we flew. We initiated our approach with 20
degrees of flaps (second detent), Turning downwind we added full flaps.
With full flaps there is NOT enough trim to take the back pressure off
of the stick. I found that the back pressure was much more than I found
comfortable, and flew some landings with 2 hands! Makes it
difficult/impossible to develop a fingertip feel on landings. The other
item has been reported by several others and that is when landing it
takes the full aft movement of the stick. The topic has been discussed &
debated previously, but in my opinion with only 2 people and no
baggage/balast there is not enough elevator. Towards the end of 8.1
hours, I was able to get some of the rust scrubbed off, got a little
less shy about the rapidly approaching ground, and found a way to
'muscle' a couple of good landings. then Mike says " let me show you
something, .... we took another trip around the pattern flew exactly as
before only on our base leg after extending full flaps, he had me 'blip'
off a degree or two of flap at a time until the back pressure I'd grown
unaccustomed to holding was gone..... then flew the rest of the landing
!!!!! WOW!!! what a difference !!!!! Mike why did you keep this little
secret to the end??????? the plane landed almost identical to full
flaps, but the 'feel' was completely different and actually a joy!!!!!**
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> After looking closely at the pictures, it appears that the metal is
> not only cracked, but also "crinkled." If you look at the skin to the
> left of the crack, it appears to also be deformed which concurs with
> the failure of the bulkhead. First thought is there was substantial
> down pressure (compression) on the longeron and on the F1010A angle at
> this point. Except when rolling, would there ever be uneven force on
> the HS? And even then I would think the forces would be very
> little. Would it be possible to detect equal tensional stress on the
> other side?
>
> I agree with the twisted HS theory.
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
>
> - Original Message ----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:29 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>
>
>>
>> I doubt it was the engine. I just talked with someone who flew the
220
>> version for transition training September 2007. He squawked the
>> aircraft for
>> inadequate up trim. I have flown the 540 version for 33 hours and
never
>> gotten the trim setting more than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up
>> trim
>> suggest to me that a improperly rigged trim system might have the two
>> elevator halves fighting each other and twisting the elevators and
>> stressing
>> the horizontal stab.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben
Westfall
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>>
>>
>>
>> Oops forgot my name on the last one...
>>
>> Ben Westfall
>> #40579
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
McNeill
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
>>
>>
>>
>> This is what I found about an hour ago. Look at the end of the pdf.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Grover" <rv8grover(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | GTR serial connections |
Gentlemen,
I have the three screen Horizon GTR system with the ARINC 429 module on
display 1, GPS on display 2, and display three has nothing.
GNS 430
SL30
GTX330
Sorcerer Autopilot.
My problem is the Grand Rapids EFIS will not send commands to the Sorcerer.
The 430 will drive the autopilot but intermittently loses the GPSS
suggesting that the serial connection is OK but there is a problem with the
ARINC429. Trutrak documentation stated both Serial and ARINC 429 are needed
for GPSS and GPSV.
In the Grand Rapids documentation they say the ARINC 429 can be connected to
as many devices as you wish. A friend suggested that I provide a dedicated
ARINC 429 connection between the 430 and the Sorcerer. I think all of the
ARINC 429 connections to the 430 have been used.
Does anybody have any suggestions?? GTR has been helpful but they don't
seem to know what is going on here.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GTR serial connections |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
First thing I'd check is to make sure that the GRT ARINC is set to low
speed. If it isn't you'll see some very strange behavior on the AP (ask
me how I know...).
Bob N442PM
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald Grover
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 9:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GTR serial connections
Gentlemen,
I have the three screen Horizon GTR system with the ARINC 429 module on
display 1, GPS on display 2, and display three has nothing.
GNS 430
SL30
GTX330
Sorcerer Autopilot.
My problem is the Grand Rapids EFIS will not send commands to the
Sorcerer. The 430 will drive the autopilot but intermittently loses the
GPSS suggesting that the serial connection is OK but there is a problem
with the ARINC429. Trutrak documentation stated both Serial and ARINC
429 are needed for GPSS and GPSV.
In the Grand Rapids documentation they say the ARINC 429 can be
connected to as many devices as you wish. A friend suggested that I
provide a dedicated ARINC 429 connection between the 430 and the
Sorcerer. I think all of the ARINC 429 connections to the 430 have been
used.
Does anybody have any suggestions?? GTR has been helpful but they don't
seem to know what is going on here.
Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
But also think not only of a twisted HS theory but remember the tail fuse s
kin is part of this equation, I don't see it so much as compression problem
as a shearing problem...the fuse side skin going in a different direction
from longeron and the horizontal angle that is going across the top and fas
tening to the HS stab. As though the HS is not rolling, but rather yawing a
nd cycling with some harmonic.
John G. 409> From: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subje
ct: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 00:36:05 -
m>> > After looking closely at the pictures, it appears that the metal is n
ot only > cracked, but also "crinkled." If you look at the skin to the left
of the > crack, it appears to also be deformed which concurs with the fail
ure of the > bulkhead. First thought is there was substantial down pressure
> (compression) on the longeron and on the F1010A angle at this point. > E
xcept when rolling, would there ever be uneven force on the HS? And even >
then I would think the forces would be very little. Would it be possible to
> detect equal tensional stress on the other side?> > I agree with the twi
sted HS theory.> > Dave Leikam> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)> Muskego, WI> > > -
Original Message ----- > From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>> To: <rv
10-list(at)matronics.com>> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:29 PM> Subject: R
"David McNeill" > >> > I doubt it was the engine. I just
talked with someone who flew the 220> > version for transition training Se
ptember 2007. He squawked the aircraft > > for> > inadequate up trim. I hav
e flown the 540 version for 33 hours and never> > gotten the trim setting m
ore than 2 bars from neutral. Inadequate up trim> > suggest to me that a im
properly rigged trim system might have the two> > elevator halves fighting
each other and twisting the elevators and > > stressing> > the horizontal s
tab.> >> > -----Original Message-----> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matro
nics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben
Westfall> > Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 9:02 PM> > To: rv10-list@matroni
cs.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]> >> > --> RV10-List
message posted by: "Ben Westfall" > >> >> > Oops forgot
my name on the last one...> >> > Ben Westfall> > #40579> >> > -----Origina
l Message-----> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> > [mailto:own
er-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill> > Sent: Wedn
esday, June 11, 2008 7:36 PM> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV1
0-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]> >> >> >> > This is what I found about an hou
========================> _
=====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
It light of the j-channel discussion of the last week or so, notice that in the
Van SB picture, the j-channel also touches the bulkhead as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
Is the target empty wt CG what 410RV has or something else? I believe
it has well over 1000 hours on it now, as it was over 900 last August
when I flew in it.
It would seem desirable to start planning towards whatever the goal is
from the start of the tail cone on. Wonder if
Vans will spec that bulkhead in subsequent kits for the next thickness
up. I expect I will have the same as all others when I pickup my
empenage kit, allegedly arriving tomorrow.
Kelly
Builder # yet to come.
On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 3:34 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Know your aircraft's mission! It is time for Tim James to provide
> discussion and pictures on his roll bar, VGs and low slow speed
> improvements. While he is at it, he can mention the tail
> counter-weights which brought his CG "Dead nuts on".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
I talked to Vans yesterday to ask that exact question. There is no plans to
change the bulkhead to a thicker product. The doublers are the final fix to
it as of yesterday.
I received my Emp. Kit today and now have a very full garage. Kelly make
lots of room the box is 11 ft long almost 4 ft wide and weights 300 pounds.
I am serial number 40864 and anything after 40866 will have the sb kit
included in build kit.
So the fun begins.
John G. Cumins
#40864 Inventory starting soon.
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1]
Is the target empty wt CG what 410RV has or something else? I believe
it has well over 1000 hours on it now, as it was over 900 last August
when I flew in it.
It would seem desirable to start planning towards whatever the goal is
from the start of the tail cone on. Wonder if
Vans will spec that bulkhead in subsequent kits for the next thickness
up. I expect I will have the same as all others when I pickup my
empenage kit, allegedly arriving tomorrow.
Kelly
Builder # yet to come.
On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 3:34 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Know your aircraft's mission! It is time for Tim James to provide
> discussion and pictures on his roll bar, VGs and low slow speed
> improvements. While he is at it, he can mention the tail
> counter-weights which brought his CG "Dead nuts on".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Perhaps it's time to take another look at why the RV-10 even needs two trim tabs....
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187667#187667
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Kelly,
The info on 410RV is just data, not a target. It is puts the empty CGjust forward
of the forward CG limit and when you add fuel/pilot you're within the envelope.
As discussed many times the plane will have more trim authority during
the landing phase if the CG is shifted an inch or two aft by carrying some weight
in the baggage compartment. As I understand it, the decision to make the
empty CG forward is because the arms for fuel, pilot, passengers and baggage are
all aft of the forward CG limit.
My (N442PM) empty CG is aft of the factory plane for the following reasons:
- I have a pair of PC-680 batteries instead of the standard Concorde in the standard
battery location with the second battery contactor colocated.
- I have dual LSE Plasma III ignitions which means no mags
- I have a B&C 20 amp alternator on the vacuum pad and angled oil filter adapter
which adds back a little weight up front.
- I've got a pretty full panel which is heavier than the factory planes but close
to the CG line.
For those wanting to do a little planning, here are the numbers:
Fwd CG limit: 107.8375" (15% of chord)
Aft CG limit: 116.2375" (30% of chord)
Fuel: 108.9"
Front seats: 114.582"
Rear seats: 151.2586"
Baggage: 173.5"
Disclaimer: Unless your plane is identical in every way to one of those mentioned,
your information WILL be different. I only include it for context of the
discussion on the need for trim.
Bob N442PM
(36.1 hours as of a few minutes ago!)
Is the target empty wt CG what 410RV has or something else? I believe
it has well over 1000 hours on it now, as it was over 900 last August
when I flew in it.
It would seem desirable to start planning towards whatever the goal is
from the start of the tail cone on. Wonder if
Vans will spec that bulkhead in subsequent kits for the next thickness
up. I expect I will have the same as all others when I pickup my
empenage kit, allegedly arriving tomorrow.
Kelly
Builder # yet to come.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187689#187689
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: sb08-6-1[1] |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The final fix is indeed the doubler approach. When you receive your SB package
it will contain a replacement chapter 10 of the construction manual with the
doublers in addition to directions on how to retrofit them to a tailcone that
is already constructed. Parts consist of the 2 doublers and a bag with a lot
of AD4 size rivets...
I did the inspection this afternoon and found all was well. Given that I only
have 36 hours on the plane and am 11 months away from the annual I'll do the 25
hour inspection routine and let the dust settle before tearing into things.
Maybe somebody will come up with an easier way!
Bob N442PM
40 hour fly-off should be finished tomorrow!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187694#187694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Gust Lock |
When I tie down in the open I secure the rudder with a cord after using the
seat belt to hold the stick aft and centered. Works OK but I'm thinking of
using a short piece of rubber tube with a hold cut in it for the tail
light/strobe to stick thru.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Gust Lock |
It seems to me that it may work fine for winds of 10kts or so but in really
strong winds it may have problems. The rope around the strobe may slip and
the rudder will be free to move and get damaged. Secondly the attach points
on the horizontal stab are putting a load on the stab that it was not
designed to carry. That is a twisting rocking motion that lasts for as long
as the aircraft is parked outside in the wind.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 9:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Gust Lock
When I tie down in the open I secure the rudder with a cord after using the
seat belt to hold the stick aft and centered. Works OK but I'm thinking of
using a short piece of rubber tube with a hold cut in it for the tail
light/strobe to stick thru.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GTR serial connections |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
First you must understand the the GNS-430 has 2 ARINC INPUT ports but only ONE
ARINC OUTPUT port. Also ARINC is a buss so dedicating it to one output device
is kind of limiting. Ideally the single GNS-430W ARINC OUT should be connected
to the EFIS, the TruTrak AND the 330 transponder if you have one. If you make
the GNS-430W ARINC OUTPUT dedicated to the TruTrak, you are then limited to
using GPSS L and V ONLY with the 430. You should still have basic autopilot
using the RS-232 from the EFIS to the TruTrak. For full GPSS from the EFIS,
you will need a switch between the GNS-430 ARINC OUT, the EFIS ARINC OUT and the
TruTrak ARINC IN. This should allow you to get the full benefit of the Sorcerer
with the EFIS.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Gentlemen,
>
>
>
> I have the three screen Horizon GTR system with the ARINC 429 module on
> display 1, GPS on display 2, and display three has nothing.
>
> GNS 430
>
> SL30
>
> GTX330
>
> Sorcerer Autopilot.
>
>
>
> My problem is the Grand Rapids EFIS will not send commands to the Sorcerer.
> The 430 will drive the autopilot but intermittently loses the GPSS
> suggesting that the serial connection is OK but there is a problem with the
> ARINC429. Trutrak documentation stated both Serial and ARINC 429 are needed
> for GPSS and GPSV.
>
>
>
> In the Grand Rapids documentation they say the ARINC 429 can be connected to
> as many devices as you wish. A friend suggested that I provide a dedicated
> ARINC 429 connection between the 430 and the Sorcerer. I think all of the
> ARINC 429 connections to the 430 have been used.
>
>
>
> Does anybody have any suggestions?? GTR has been helpful but they don't
> seem to know what is going on here.
>
>
>
> Ron Grover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Boone, IA Flyin anyone? |
I'm planning to fly up to the RV Flyin in Boone, Iowa tomorrow morning, is anyone
else planning on flying in?
Ray Doerr
N519RV (40250)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall. I've
seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm interested
in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't clear. I doubt a
unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the stainless toasts them
quickly. Are there punches that work better and where did people buy them
if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I don't know if it works on
stainless very well. I need to punch the holes for the battery cable and
the throttle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
Actually the type of stainless in our firewalls isn't too bad to drill.
I use regular drill bits and step bits in mine without a problem. Only way
you are going to get extremely clean holes are with lots of patience, a pu
nch tool like used for panels, or a CNC machine. I think you will find the
normal methods to be just fine though.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cutting holes in the firewall
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall. I'v
e seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm intereste
d in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't clear. I doubt a
unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the stainless toasts them quic
kly. Are there punches that work better and where did people buy them if s
o? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I don't know if it works on stainles
s very well. I need to punch the holes for the battery cable and the throt
tle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
Ben,
The set from HF works great on the FW SS. I used it on mine. Made two
nice holes.
Dave Lammers
Forever Finishing.
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall.
> I've seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm
> interested in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't
> clear. I doubt a unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the
> stainless toasts them quickly. Are there punches that work better and
> where did people buy them if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I
> don't know if it works on stainless very well. I need to punch the
> holes for the battery cable and the throttle/prop/mixture.
>
>
>
> Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
> PDX
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
I have greenlee punches and some high quality uni-bits, I found that hands
down the uni-bit was the way to go. With the punches, at the very end of
pulling the punch through the metal the slug would get bound up between the
punch and the die. With the uni-bits I found the secret to success was
drilling a little at a time from both sides. This would keep the burr
from getting very big, the result was very clean accurate holes.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doors/Plexi revisited ... again |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
In response to off line questions about the die grinder I use, a picture is easier
and I'll just post it here in case others are interested.
I noticed Harbor Frt. has one for about $30, the quick release disk came from a
body shop supply, extra disks came from Grainger.
This is an extremely useful tool for rough shaping small areas of fiberglass, aluminum,
etc. But it is aggressive with high speed and small area, so practice
a bit first.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187818#187818
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/die_grinder_medium_107.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/die_sander_medium_101.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shallow_472.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Ben, I have the Harbor Freight punches (which you are welcome to borrow)
and found them inferior on aluminum. At work, we use a hydraulic punch
which I might be able to borrow.
the unibit and possibly multiple are the best bet for 10 builders.
Sharing the size and locations with future builders would allow them to
use other techniques before the wall is installed.
John Cox
#40600
PDX - UAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cutting holes in the firewall
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall.
I've seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm
interested in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't
clear. I doubt a unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the
stainless toasts them quickly. Are there punches that work better and
where did people buy them if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I
don't know if it works on stainless very well. I need to punch the
holes for the battery cable and the throttle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm tryin
g to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.- Each time I lat
ch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out of its happy pla
ce and leaves a gap.- Looks like the only solution is to oversize the hol
e in the direction that will allow the pin to slide straight in and latch,
then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin in place.- =0AI could then
patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill-the final hole's location in th
e patch.=0AOr should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wo
uldn't then emerge from the door without binding.=0ARight now it looks like
it's only the forward pin on the left door.=0AEverything else was done per
plans, which of course in this fiberglass stuff means, "hey, here are some
guidelines, now just figure it out until it works!"=0AVery frustrating, so
I quit for the night before I get drastic and make a huge hole that I don'
t need or want.=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0ADoors...Thought I'd be done with them
by tomorrow...=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Officially a Builder |
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
All my shipments came FedEx Freight. They were initially the least expensive
(we receive the Van's discount) than I requested they ship the rest of my
kits FedEx since they did a great job each time.
Congratulations!
Pascal
#40720
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
>
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
Welcome!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
>
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Officially a Builder |
Congratts Kelly. My kit showed up yesterday.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
I had good luck with FedEx....I think ABF stands for Always Broken with Forklift.
Anyone had the nerve to add up all their shipping costs? Jeezz it sucks.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 11:40:19 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air body saw cheap |
I picked up one last time it was on sale for 14.99. A good deal. Some
observations
1) Save your receipt - my saw failed while working on the fiberglass
top. Couldn't figure out what broke but it is RIP. Not a big deal at
$15 but I couldn't find the receipt for a warranty return. (but I am by
no means recommending the HF extended warranty)
2) If you plan to use it on fiberglass - get lot's of blades. Or
better yet, see if you can find or fashion a carbide grit blade for it.
That would be a fiberglass master tool for many of the canopy cuts. I
ended up with a carbide grit blade on a (too big) reciprocating saw and
cutting down the width of the saw so it would turn a tighter radius.
Worked well... the HF saw would have been perfect with a grit saw blade.
3) Tim has a very steady head and nerves of steel. I did a cutout for
my wingtip lights and scared the living crap out of myself. I used a
die grinder and a hand file on the other one.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Just thought I'd pass this along....since after building a plane
> I ended up addicted to Harbor Freight.
>
> The High-Speed air body saw: 91753-5BPB is on sale now for $14.99.
> I found it useful a few times, but especially for the landing
> lights in the wingtip...it worked great for that.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
i've found that if i polish the rods with polish/rouge to a nice shine then
dab a bit of boelube on them they will slide verry smoothly. i'd avoid
anything that may attract dirt later. even a silicone dry lube would be
good. on the extreme end i did have one plactic block that was way too
tight. i chucked the door rod in my cordless drill and ran the rod in the
block till it got warm, let everything cool, and it tested much better. of
coarse ymmv....
steven dinieri
iflyrv10.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "PJ Seipel" <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door pins
>
> I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
> lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
> through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
> them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
> rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
> Robert Wright wrote:
> > I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> > trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> > time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> > of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> > to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> > straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> > in place.
> >
> > I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> > hole's location in the patch.
> >
> > Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> > then emerge from the door without binding.
> >
> > Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
> >
> > Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> > stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> > until it works!"
> >
> > Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> > make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
> >
> > Rob Wright
> > #392
> > Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I reamed my delrin blocks 1/64" oversize(reamer available from Grainger). That
was enough clearance to account for the slight angle the door pins have relative
to the blocks, but not so much as to have any slop when the door is locked
shut.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187880#187880
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air body saw cheap |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I used my saw for a lot of things, but found the HF blades near worthless. Has
anyone found a better quality, ready to use blade that will fit this saw? I would
rather build airplanes than saw blades (just in case I become a repeat offender).
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187881#187881
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
FWIW, I just finished fitting the doors with the Rivethead pin and block
set (similar perhaps to Steve DiNieri's). Though I did a lot of 'heming
and 'hawing trying to figure out how to best fit them, it ended up being
very easy to get a great fit. The bullet shaped rod end and the
matching pin blocks really work nicely to 'rack' then lock the door in
place. See the Youtube video:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UMJ5ZLT8OTo
I can't easily describe the installation procedure I used but it worked
much more easily than I could have imagined. And seemed a lot more
straight forward than the Van's design. Only tip I can easily give is
that the nylon blocks on the doors need to fit as far back into their
recesses on the door as possible. That is, they need to more recessed
than just flush with the edge of the recess - another 1/16 to 1/8"
seemed critical.
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
I'd like to get rid of the line of nut plates along the bottom of the panel to
make the whole lower flange area of the panel (F-1003B) useable without interference
and still have structural rigidity.
I understand one alternative might be Stein's extended panel but I'm concerned
about conflict with forward movement of control stick.
Another might be to have a single piece panel cut with support brackets on the
ends and no separate lower flange.
It's a really tight fit for two AFS 4500's on the pilots side plus three 2 & 1/4"
backup instruments.
Has anyone come up with alternatives. Especially those that are actually flying
[Laughing]
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
" I can make it work, I'm just not sure how yet."
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187886#187886
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
My understanding there is an engine on ebay. supposedly a swinging deal. no
core required. expires today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
My door building memory dump (or revisiting bad dreams):
Life is good, the birds are singing and the lion sleeps with the lamb until you
drill the hole through the aluminum frame. Quickly thereafter dark clouds begin
to form.
I adjusted my door fit, using various techniques, before starting the rod assembly,
after the latch mechanism was installed, and after the seal was installed.
It would have been much better, mentally, for me to visualize this process as
successive approximations rather than three final trims.
Make sure there is always a gap between the door and the return lip of
the cabin fiberglass. I trimed this lip many times as I worked the door
into place. Letting this lip push against the door at the upper part of the door
will cause the door
lower lip to move up. If you trim the bottom of the door
with the lip interfering near the top - well ...
To fine tune my door fit I purchased a block of nylon and machined (chop saw and
drill press and dremel grinder) the guides on the door, not the cabin frame.
This kept the aluminum hole intact. Keep the screw holes in the same location
and move the rod hole around.
Make the bends near the middle of the rod and "aim" the rod through the hole to
minimize drag. Using sandpaper you can lightly smooth up the last 3" of the rod
and it will slip through the hole easier. Light weight grease helps greatly.
If you need to repurchase the rods buy 2024-T3 raw stock with thick walls. A die
grinder with a thin abrasive wheel easily cuts the end slot and you can decrease
the pointy end angle to increase metal through the
aluminum frame.
The pointy side of the rod is inboard to catch the hole with the tip
and pull the door inward. The sharp edges of the rod end function more
like a sword than a velvet finger and chop up the receiving plastic.
Sand (or fair) down these outer edges to help the rod slide and not
stab.
Rod length adjustment starts with making sure the door handle swings 110 degrees
or greater. Fully retract the rods. The rod end tip should be exactly flush
with the door frame. If its pulled further into the door then the rod end may
not pass through the aluminum frame when closed. The greater the circumference
of the rod end passing through the aluminum frame the stronger the door. If the
rod point is outside the door frame with the door handle fully open then it
will decimate the cabin jam.
The last check is to assess how much of the rod circumference passes through the
aluminum hole with the door closed. If this measurement is small, say
.125" , then only the plastic guide is holding the door and the door is likely
to open in flight as the outer edge of the guide weakens when the rod pointy
end chops it up. Adding aluminum to this joint is a very good case for purchasing
the aluminum guides.
No passengers move the handle to close
the door - only you. The
passengers that abused this and made unsightly gashes in my
outer skin were other pilots that already "knew" everything.
Good Luck,
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Sat, 6/14/08, PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> wrote:
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door pins
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 5:54 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now
I'm
> trying to fit them in the
7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit
for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
Site -
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF box
was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
>From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it in
2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF was 5
business days, no variation.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187898#187898
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SB package arrived today |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Just for reference, the SB package from Vans arrived today in the mail from Vans.
I am located in Oklahoma City.
Included was a complete new section 10 set of plans.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187899#187899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Certified O-540 NIB |
If anybody is interested in a Certified O-540 new in Lycoming box,
please contact me off list.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IO540 need an engine? |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-IO-540-D4A5-0-SMOH-by-Ly-Con-FREE-SH
IPPING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQihZ002QQitemZ120270111673QQrdZ1QQss
pagenameZWDVW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
I guess I'm the exception.
I had great service from ABF.
Not so much as a footprint on any of the boxes.
Neal George
========================
I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF
box was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
>From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it
in 2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF
was 5 business days, no variation.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187898#187898
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
orchidman wrote:
>
>>
>
> I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF
box was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
> >From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it
in 2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF was
5 business days, no variation.
>
>
Fedex got the box late Jun 10, and it was available for pickup 8am Jun
13 in Phoenix. Essentially 2 days on the road. Like you say..you aren't
going to drive it in less, unless you have 2 drivers and go non-stop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO540 need an engine? |
Good price if you don't mind a narrow deck engine and unknown
preservation/storage. Not to mention all the choices about parts used
etc. already made for you.
Good if you are ready to install, not so good if you are a year or two
away from finishing.
On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 1:59 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-IO-540-D4A5-0-SMOH-by-Ly-Con-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQihZ002QQitemZ120270111673QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | EIS 6000 question |
Hi
Regarding the GRT EIS 6000/4000 could anyone tell me what scale factor and
offset limit values you used for your fuel pressure sender?
Thanks
Kevin Shannon
Taxi testing the rocket tomorrow
**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
search. Blue Skys.
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS 6000 question |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
For the stainless steel high pressure fuel sender (what GRT recommends for FI engines),
the SF is 63 and OFF is 51. Be aware however that there's a minor calibration
procedure to set the zero level. As I recall this involves having zero
PSI (open the mixture to guarantee this) and then setting the OFF as appropriate.
They want this done with the ambient air temp around 72 degrees F.
Bob
N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187976#187976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS 6000 question |
That's the one I have....the SF is 63, but it doesn't just list the OFF
as 51 on my sheet, it says:
Calibrate as follows. Set AuxOff to 0. Be sure no pressure
is applied to the sensor. Note the auxiliary display.
The sensor is operating properly if the aux display is between 20-30
or 2.0-3.0 for aux displays with a decimal point.
If the aux display includes a decimal point, multiply the
reading by 20 and subtract 1. Pressure will be displayed as
1/10 of actual.
If the aux display does not have a decimal point, multiply the
reading by 2 and subtract 1. Pressure will be displayed as
actual, in units of PSI.
(There is a little more text there that I left out, but it
doesn't seem it gives the exact number)
I believe my offset was set at 47. So while you may
be able to get the SF set, I think you have to calculate
the Offset on your individual sensor.
The rest is my other post....just without the "do not arkive"
thing on the end.
------
Those numbers should be on a sheet that came with the sensor.
I'd give you mine, but one of my two sensors (The High
pressure one) was not the original cheap one that GRT sells, but
their more premium "Stainless Steel High Pressure Sensor",
which uses a different SF and OFF. I am not sure if that
was oil pressure or fuel pressure for that sensor though.
But either way, they have sheets for both sensor types that
show the info.
For the cheap VDO 80 and 150, this is what it says:
Set AuxSF to 182 for 150 psi sender, 91 for 80 psi sender
Set AuxOff to 29 for 150 psi sender, 15 for 80 psi sender
Set Aux Sensing to normal (+) on Options page
If the auxiliary input includes a decimal point, the pressure
displayed will be 1/10 of actual. For example, 35 psi
will be displayed as 3.5 psi.
If you don't have these sheets, I'd get them to send them to you.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
bcondrey wrote:
>
>
> For the stainless steel high pressure fuel sender (what GRT
> recommends for FI engines), the SF is 63 and OFF is 51. Be aware
> however that there's a minor calibration procedure to set the zero
> level. As I recall this involves having zero PSI (open the mixture
> to guarantee this) and then setting the OFF as appropriate. They
> want this done with the ambient air temp around 72 degrees F.
>
> Bob N442PM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Barry your point is dead on. Many do not understand the urgency to
inspect (within 5) and to continue to inspect (every 25) until
compliance (at the very next Conditional). A misread could have major
impact. Share the word!
Few are getting to the root of the cause. Hopefully it was due to a
unique one of a kind, build situation. What is most important is not
allowing this alarming crack to become anything more than a simple
patch.
Stay safe. Tim could best track those who have completed it and confirm
if more than a single aircraft was affected. Sharing of what is being
found at Conditionals is of value to every single 10 builder. This
group is great at the sharing.
John Cox
Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Marz
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 6:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
search. Blue Skys.
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
N519RV (40250)
Hobbs = 381.3, No cracks founds. Looks like it did on day one!
Ray Doerr
---- Barry Marz wrote:
>
> There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
> thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
> Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
> search. Blue Skys.
>
> Barry Marz
> 18735 Baseleg AVE.
> FT. Myers, Fl 33917
> 239-567-2271
> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Lane" <bruce_a_lane(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
N662G
97 hours TTSN
First Flight = November 2007
No cracks or other signs of fatigue found
Bruce lane
Virginia Beach, VA
---- Barry Marz wrote:
>
> There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
> thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
> Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
> search. Blue Skys.
>
> Barry Marz
> 18735 Baseleg AVE.
> FT. Myers, Fl 33917
> 239-567-2271
> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
33 hours no cracks N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
I may be missing the point of everyone sending in hours and no structural
crack reports and although this may be a great idea let's remember the Van's
plane saw this at 500 hours with much of those hours for transition
training. I sure would not expect many of us to see anything for a few more
hundred hours, and if it's mostly straight and level with little stall and
landing (hard at that) practice maybe not until 600-750 or more hours.
I mentioned this before, Van's rarely sends parts out to us to strengthen
what they consider a weakness in the design, so this must be a serious
concern for the engineers at Van's. Is it going to take a plane to have a
structural issue for us to heed their SB sooner than later?
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Lane" <bruce_a_lane(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
>
> N662G
> 97 hours TTSN
> First Flight = November 2007
> No cracks or other signs of fatigue found
>
> Bruce lane
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
> ---- Barry Marz wrote:
>>
>> There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
>> thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
>> Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
>> search. Blue Skys.
>>
>> Barry Marz
>> 18735 Baseleg AVE.
>> FT. Myers, Fl 33917
>> 239-567-2271
>> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
N220RV is a structural issue, hence their providing a SB. It had far fewer hours
on the airframe, than on N410RV. They are not about to admit the material
thickness might be spec'ed too thin or the "heat treatment" post fabrication was
incorrect. For those who have not yet installed F1010, there are several things
that could be done to reduce the likelihood of a similar crack developing.
For those who have finished, 5/25/next Conditional should be the mantra.
Some may remember the post months ago about cracks in an initial fabricated piece
and the words from the factory to just file it, build it and "forgetaboutit".
Don't hear that on this crack...do we?
If they want reinspections every 25 hours and the crack propagated this far (since
the last Conditional), you know it showed some time ago and got missed. So
do the inspection but don't "forgetaboutit". And remember "Didn't find the crack
Yet, will keep looking!"
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
I may be missing the point of everyone sending in hours and no structural
crack reports and although this may be a great idea let's remember the Van's
plane saw this at 500 hours with much of those hours for transition
training. I sure would not expect many of us to see anything for a few more
hundred hours, and if it's mostly straight and level with little stall and
landing (hard at that) practice maybe not until 600-750 or more hours.
I mentioned this before, Van's rarely sends parts out to us to strengthen
what they consider a weakness in the design, so this must be a serious
concern for the engineers at Van's. Is it going to take a plane to have a
structural issue for us to heed their SB sooner than later?
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Lane" <bruce_a_lane(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
>
> N662G
> 97 hours TTSN
> First Flight = November 2007
> No cracks or other signs of fatigue found
>
> Bruce lane
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
> ---- Barry Marz wrote:
>>
>> There are quite a few threads on this SB. Why don't we use this
>> thread to keep track of what people find when they do the inspection?
>> Just list A/C time and results and we can track the problem with one
>> search. Blue Skys.
>>
>> Barry Marz
>> 18735 Baseleg AVE.
>> FT. Myers, Fl 33917
>> 239-567-2271
>> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS 6000 question |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I don't have the sheet in front of my but Tim's info sounds right. I was simply
providing my settings. They may or may not work for you; My initial fuel sender
used these numbers and after a couple of hours failed. GRT was great and
shipped me another one immediately and coincidently it used the same OFF calibration.
Bob
N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188007#188007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | pre stall buffet |
As I have worked the approach speeds lower, I believe I am getting pre stall
buffeting. During the test period my approaches were at 80 kts and half
flaps and 75 kts over the numbers in the flare. I did not notice a vibration
in the tail and/or flaps on the left side. Recently I have gone to half
flaps and 70 kts on short final and into the flare. I feel a slight
vibration in the controls prior to touchdown. Since I have been flying it
was imprudent to turn my head to look at the left rear of the aircraft.
Anyone else have a similar experience? I plan to get my flying partner to
land tthe airplane while I observe the rear of the aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | IO540 need an engine? |
I wish this had been around when I was looking for an engine! I used to leave
in the town over from Ly-Con and they are a great outfit. It would certainly
be worth asking about when it was overhauled and who's providing the warranty,
but I would jump at this in a heartbeat (and no they don't know me and there's
no kickback, unfortunately). I worked with a couple guys from Ly-Con on my
Skybolt's IO-540 when I did a top overhaul and learned a lot of good things about
them. One final caveat, my experience was in 1998 so things may have changed.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO540 need an engine?
Good price if you don't mind a narrow deck engine and unknown
preservation/storage. Not to mention all the choices about parts used
etc. already made for you.
Good if you are ready to install, not so good if you are a year or two
away from finishing.
On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 1:59 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-IO-540-D4A5-0-SMOH-by-Ly-Con-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQihZ002QQitemZ120270111673QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pre stall buffet |
What stall speed did you derive in your flight testing with full flaps,
at gross? I see Van's claims 57mph.
How about straight ahead stall speed coordinated with half flaps?
David McNeill wrote:
> As I have worked the approach speeds lower, I believe I am getting pre
> stall buffeting. During the test period my approaches were at 80 kts
> and half flaps and 75 kts over the numbers in the flare. I did not
> notice a vibration in the tail and/or flaps on the left side. Recently
> I have gone to half flaps and 70 kts on short final and into the
> flare. I feel a slight vibration in the controls prior to touchdown.
> Since I have been flying it was imprudent to turn my head to look at
> the left rear of the aircraft. Anyone else have a similar experience?
> I plan to get my flying partner to land tthe airplane while I observe
> the rear of the aircraft.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related |
A fellow RV'er emailed me today to give me some sad news from
South Australia. One of our RV-10 builder brothers from West
Australia, Indran Chelvanayagam, has unfortunately passed. He
had looked forward to meeting many of us again at OSH, which
is where I first met him about 3 or 4 seasons ago. He was a
very friendly person, and I believe he did some good humanitarian
work in other countries for many people. He talked of all of
his American RV friends with great fondness. He was also a mentor
to some of the other builders in West Australia. His passing
was not aviation related. While I have no details, the way it
was put to me was "unfortunately Indran was suffering with depression
unbeknown to all his friends in our local town". I'm sure he
probably did not realize what a loss his fellow builders would
feel.
--
Tim Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Axle Extension Availability Update |
Jessie and Everyone,
I followed up on Jessie's request for more information on the RV-10 Axle
Extensions that are available through Cleaveland Aircraft Tools.
They have been added to the website and can be found under the product
number: RVAE10 They can be found under New Items or Aircraft Accessories.
Mike Lauritsen asked me to apologize for not having it listed sooner.
Dave Hertner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Tim - I did not know. I really don't know what to say.
I'm sure most, (if not all) of the -10 community in Australia has had
some interaction with Indran. Always positive, always constructive and
always willing to help - he will be missed. The Oz -10 community is
small and close-nit indeed. A very sad day for us here.
Ron
South Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, 16 June 2008 1:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related
A fellow RV'er emailed me today to give me some sad news from South
Australia. One of our RV-10 builder brothers from West Australia,
Indran Chelvanayagam, has unfortunately passed. He had looked forward
to meeting many of us again at OSH, which is where I first met him about
3 or 4 seasons ago. He was a very friendly person, and I believe he did
some good humanitarian work in other countries for many people. He
talked of all of his American RV friends with great fondness. He was
also a mentor to some of the other builders in West Australia. His
passing was not aviation related. While I have no details, the way it
was put to me was "unfortunately Indran was suffering with depression
unbeknown to all his friends in our local town". I'm sure he probably
did not realize what a loss his fellow builders would feel.
--
Tim Olson
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Sad news. Very sad news. Any way we can jointly send a message to his
family? Might help a little.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Indran Chelvanayagam, has unfortunately passed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related |
What a shock he was a top bloke and we were going to catch up with him in
Aug when we fly around AUS .
Such a shame.
Chris Susie and Darcy
VH-ICy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 1:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related
>
> A fellow RV'er emailed me today to give me some sad news from
> South Australia. One of our RV-10 builder brothers from West
> Australia, Indran Chelvanayagam, has unfortunately passed. He
> had looked forward to meeting many of us again at OSH, which
> is where I first met him about 3 or 4 seasons ago. He was a
> very friendly person, and I believe he did some good humanitarian
> work in other countries for many people. He talked of all of
> his American RV friends with great fondness. He was also a mentor
> to some of the other builders in West Australia. His passing
> was not aviation related. While I have no details, the way it
> was put to me was "unfortunately Indran was suffering with depression
> unbeknown to all his friends in our local town". I'm sure he
> probably did not realize what a loss his fellow builders would
> feel.
>
> --
> Tim Olson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | pre stall buffet |
Last week we recalibrated our AOA which required stalls clean and dirty. At
2400 lbs, 3000' DA , clean was at 62 KIAS, Dirty was 54KIAS. Approaching at
70 with the flaps down shouldn't be anywhere close to a stall, but Marcus is
right, you should do some more testing at altitude.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 3:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: pre stall buffet
As I have worked the approach speeds lower, I believe I am getting pre stall
buffeting. During the test period my approaches were at 80 kts and half
flaps and 75 kts over the numbers in the flare. I did not notice a vibration
in the tail and/or flaps on the left side. Recently I have gone to half
flaps and 70 kts on short final and into the flare. I feel a slight
vibration in the controls prior to touchdown. Since I have been flying it
was imprudent to turn my head to look at the left rear of the aircraft.
Anyone else have a similar experience? I plan to get my flying partner to
land tthe airplane while I observe the rear of the aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am not so sure about the placement of those vents.
I think that they might fall more easily under the panel lower flange
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188063#188063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related |
Well that just sucks. I've lost too many friends in the last couple years in
both aviation and my personal life. Indran was a hell of a nice guy and we hung
out together a bit when he was in OSH a couple years ago. I just bugged him
a little while back about when he was going to make it to OSH again. He will
be missed.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lost one of our brothers - NOT aviation related
A fellow RV'er emailed me today to give me some sad news from
South Australia. One of our RV-10 builder brothers from West
Australia, Indran Chelvanayagam, has unfortunately passed. He
had looked forward to meeting many of us again at OSH, which
is where I first met him about 3 or 4 seasons ago. He was a
very friendly person, and I believe he did some good humanitarian
work in other countries for many people. He talked of all of
his American RV friends with great fondness. He was also a mentor
to some of the other builders in West Australia. His passing
was not aviation related. While I have no details, the way it
was put to me was "unfortunately Indran was suffering with depression
unbeknown to all his friends in our local town". I'm sure he
probably did not realize what a loss his fellow builders would
feel.
--
Tim Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV10-List Digest: ABF |
I had 3 of my shipments sent by ABF (Already Been Forked up). They were in terrible
shape! One was upside down, despite big arrows and $ signs all over it.
It was covered on both sides with footprints. Another had the entire top sheared
off by the forks of the fork truck! I was lucky, my contents were not damaged.
Mike Lauritsen's crates had been speared by a fork truck and he had to
have entire skins replaced.
I sent complaints and numerous pictures to Van's - shortly after, FEDEX Freight
became an option. I have used them for everything since... including my engine.
I don't have a single complaint.
Thanks!
Pete
40100 - sometime later this year!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Seminar Question |
We will be holding another seminar towards the end of August.
My question to the group is about topics. The composite classes are popular
and well attended, but if you'd like to see other topics, please let me
know.
For example, now that lots of 10s are flying, is there any interest in a
weekend class on annual inspections and routine maintenance? It's a
straight-forward plane but if you've never timed a magneto or changed brake
pads it might be worthwhile.
Or electrical systems, more in-depth than Sport-Air provides? Maybe more
layout and design, or specific hand-on tasks?
Firewall Forward? Doors?
Also, if someone on the west coast needs their top trimmed and fit in the
next few months, let me know. We need a volunteer to demonstrate for the
class.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I posed the question of what's needed for LEGAL IFR operation, and this
was the reply I got. He lives in the certified airplane world but .......
The unit must be certified under either TSO-c129 or TSO-c146, be
installed in the aircraft, and be approved in that aircraft on a 337 via either
STC or field approval (if no STC for that aircraft exists). No TSO, no IFR
approval.
Since I'm planning on using the Odyssee
(http://www.mglavionics.com/html/odyssey.html) glass panel with it's
built-in WAAS capableGPS with RAIM ....... there's no TSO. Those of you
with glass panels that fly IFR with a built-in GPS ....... did you use a
certified GPS as backupor wing it ..... pun intended :-D .
Linn
so not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Linn,
The info is "part right". It needs technically and legally needs to meet
the TSO, but of course there is no requirement for an STC or 337. STC/337
are moot for experimentals.
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of linn Walters
>Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 2:33 PM
>To: RV-10; RV
>Subject: RV10-List: IFR GPS
>
>
>I posed the question of what's needed for LEGAL IFR operation, and this
>was the reply I got. He lives in the certified airplane world but .......
>
>The unit must be certified under either TSO-c129 or TSO-c146, be
>installed in the aircraft, and be approved in that aircraft on a
>337 via either
>STC or field approval (if no STC for that aircraft exists). No TSO, no IFR
>approval.
>
>Since I'm planning on using the Odyssee
>(http://www.mglavionics.com/html/odyssey.html) glass panel with it's
>built-in WAAS capableGPS with RAIM ....... there's no TSO. Those of you
>with glass panels that fly IFR with a built-in GPS ....... did you use a
>certified GPS as backupor wing it ..... pun intended :-D .
>Linn
>so not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Strange!
I read-
Rob (or anyone else who knows)
Status on the composite blade testing completed yet?
-Performance on climb?
-cruise?
-smoothness compared to 2 and/or 3 blade props ?
-Any general thoughts?
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
There are nine FSDO regions and 83 offices within those regions and I venture that
each will have a different interpretation of this for experimentals. I think
if you intend to go this route however, you should get this in writing from
one of those 83 FSDOs . Otherwise, if you are ramp checked after completing
an RNAV approach, potentially you could be cited for not having an "approved"
GPS navigator. To avoid the ambiguity, most just go with an approved GPS navigator.
http://www.atlasaviation.com/FSDO%20Locations/FSDO_Locations.htm
If *I* planned to fly IFR in ANY plane, experimental or otherwise, then my primary
GPS navigation equipment WILL be TSO'd c129 or C146a certified. But that's
just me. YMMV.
To me an $8000 TSO C146a GPS/Nav/Com offers peach of mind, that a $500 non certified
GPS with RAIM (RAIM not proven to anyone outside the company--such as the
FAA) does NOT offer.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> I posed the question of what's needed for LEGAL IFR operation, and this
> was the reply I got. He lives in the certified airplane world but .......
>
> The unit must be certified under either TSO-c129 or TSO-c146, be
> installed in the aircraft, and be approved in that aircraft on a 337 via either
> STC or field approval (if no STC for that aircraft exists). No TSO, no IFR
> approval.
>
> Since I'm planning on using the Odyssee
> (http://www.mglavionics.com/html/odyssey.html) glass panel with it's
> built-in WAAS capableGPS with RAIM ....... there's no TSO. Those of you
> with glass panels that fly IFR with a built-in GPS ....... did you use a
> certified GPS as backupor wing it ..... pun intended :-D .
> Linn
> so not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
as an example of why we need for info about the cause of the damage to
220RV.
I just received ,today, a new SB for my Glastar. In the SB ; the writer
states that all counterweights for the elevator must be inspected visually
for cracks in the aluminum where the screws hold the counterweight in place.
In addition it says that these counterweights must be inspected every
annual. Now the fiberglass tips have never been off my Glastar and the
building instructions have them installed with blind rivets. Big
change.................... Now the rest of the story. The only airplane to
experience a problem was a "two weeks to taxi " build that was being shipped
from the factory to the builders address. The elevator was
stored/transported by truck vertically without the fiberglass tip in place.
Damage occurred...Then somebody decided at the factory to issue an SB to all
flying aircraft. what a crock.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am a high time VFR pilot, but wanted my plane to have IFR capability.
I put in a Garmin 496 - non IFR GPS as my primary navigation system.
For the IFR requirements I was told to put in the following:
Garmin SL30 Nav/Com with external antenna (CDI on AFS3500 unit)
Audio Panel with Marker Beacon
Transponder
Timer (on AFS3500 unit)
Heated Pitot - Gretz G1000 (if I get it in a reasonable time frame)
Full lighting system - for night
optionally
Backup ADI, Altimeter and A/S
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188227#188227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that I consider
them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so inferior to the Rivethead
system it is crazy to struggle with it. The Rivethead system is not perfectly
straightforward but it is pretty slick when it is finished.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188228#188228
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | First flight and governor |
Just recieved the Dynon back from Dynon which they replaced with a new one.
Did engine start today and due to a few reasons I had to run the engine
longer than I would like. I am not getting the 2700 RPM and I do I
understand I need to Adjust the governor but my question is can I go flying
now and Adjusted it after each flight till its right. I realy do not want to
start the engine again till first flight on Sat weather permiting??
regards Chris VH-ICY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | First flight and governor |
Chris what is your max static rpm reading?
John 40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
McGough
Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First flight and governor
Just recieved the Dynon back from Dynon which they replaced with a new one.
Did engine start today and due to a few reasons I had to run the engine
longer than I would like. I am not getting the 2700 RPM and I do I
understand I need to Adjust the governor but my question is can I go flying
now and Adjusted it after each flight till its right. I realy do not want to
start the engine again till first flight on Sat weather permiting??
regards Chris VH-ICY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight and governor |
About 2500 but will recheck on Sat
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: First flight and governor
>
> Chris what is your max static rpm reading?
> John 40315
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
> McGough
> Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2008 3:41 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: First flight and governor
>
>
>
> Just recieved the Dynon back from Dynon which they replaced with a new
> one.
> Did engine start today and due to a few reasons I had to run the engine
> longer than I would like. I am not getting the 2700 RPM and I do I
> understand I need to Adjust the governor but my question is can I go
> flying
> now and Adjusted it after each flight till its right. I realy do not want
> to
>
> start the engine again till first flight on Sat weather permiting??
>
> regards Chris VH-ICY
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fixitauto(at)AOL.COM |
Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your total
up to?
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
AirMike wrote:
> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that I consider
them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so inferior to the Rivethead
system it is crazy to struggle with it. The Rivethead system is not perfectly
straightforward but it is pretty slick when it is finished.
>
I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
well. A few tips based on my experience:
- install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses as
possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape it so
it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
- Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
- use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
the latch. Do one block at a time
- fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
- With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway. Very
nice pins and blocks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Boston Area RV-10 Builders? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm in the Boston area all week and looks like I will have plenty of
slack time. If there are any builders in the area up for a visit
contact me offline.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Boston Area RV-10 Builders? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Forgot that it strips my email address. Contact at bob.condrey (at)
baesystems.com.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 8:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Boston Area RV-10 Builders?
I'm in the Boston area all week and looks like I will have plenty of
slack time. If there are any builders in the area up for a visit
contact me offline.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
MauleDriver:
Did you have your seal on the door?
Dr Fred
40515.
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Does anyone have experience with using a wheel jack for the RV10, good
or bad recommendations?
Sam
#40157
And no cracks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I use the type that uses a short bottle jack and goes into the hollow axel
after you remove the axel nut. Works fine and much better than the type that
uses a bracket clamped to the gear leg to provide a place to put a bottle
jack. The bracket often slips on the gear leg. However, when possible I use
wing jacks. Much safer.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have experience with using a wheel jack for the RV10, good
or bad recommendations?
Sam
#40157
And no cracks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> MauleDriver:
>
> Did you have your seal on the door?
> Dr Fred
> 40515.
Nope.
>>
>> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
>>
Bill Watson
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I jumped the gun a while back and didn't carefully enough look at the instr
uctions on the Sikaflex web site. If I hadn't already painted the interior
of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the inside of the window flan
ge to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond
thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left the flange one i
nch wide not 3/4" wide.
The pros with the use of Sikaflex is the idea of a floating acrylic window
which would allow for expansion and contraction. The thermal coefficient of
expansion between the frame and the window is huge. Because of this, Sikaf
lex requires a 3/16'" thick bond thickness and an expansion gap at the edge
of 1/4" to 3/8". Given all these requirements, my existing frame flange wi
ll need to be thinned by 1/16" and the window thinned by 1/16" whick would
still leave the window proud of the outside contour. Also because the flang
e is only 3/4", and because we would need a minimum of 1/4" expansion gap,
when the window contracts in the cold it will not have that much bond space
.
I orderred the Weld on and will most likely do it that way and bond it and
cover the gap and the edge of the window and the canopy with fiberglass for
a smooth transition as I see on most fiberglass ships.
The thing that concerns me is that we are trying to contain/constrict the p
lexiglass during expansion and contraction and that just doesn't seem right
. I suppose the Glasair guys with 10 year old ships should be able to put m
y concerns at ease.
Oh well, just the over analysing dentist in me.
JOhn G. #409
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Even if you use an adhesive that requires less bond thickness, you will have places
where the window stands proud of the cabin surface. There will also be places
where the door is proud of the top, and other places where the top is proud
of the door. You should be very proud. All of this can be accommodated by contouring
with micro or other lightweight filler.
Jim Berry
40482
Proud to be finished with fiberglass
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188333#188333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I flew my Glasair III with =BD=94 thick windshield for 15 years with it
bonded
into the frame with epoxy with no problems of cracking or crazing. With
that
thick of windshield there is no flexing of the acrylic to take up any
differential in expansion either. There are many hundreds of Glasairs
out
there with the same proven record. You can tell from the above comment
how
I put my window in the 10.
Gary
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
I jumped the gun a while back and didn't carefully enough look at the
instructions on the Sikaflex web site. If I hadn't already painted the
interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the inside of the
window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a
greqater bond thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left
the
flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide.
The pros with the use of Sikaflex is the idea of a floating acrylic
window
which would allow for expansion and contraction. The thermal coefficient
of
expansion between the frame and the window is huge. Because of this,
Sikaflex requires a 3/16'" thick bond thickness and an expansion gap at
the
edge of 1/4" to 3/8". Given all these requirements, my existing frame
flange
will need to be thinned by 1/16" and the window thinned by 1/16" whick
would
still leave the window proud of the outside contour. Also because the
flange
is only 3/4", and because we would need a minimum of 1/4" expansion gap,
when the window contracts in the cold it will not have that much bond
space.
I orderred the Weld on and will most likely do it that way and bond it
and
cover the gap and the edge of the window and the canopy with fiberglass
for
a smooth transition as I see on most fiberglass ships.
The thing that concerns me is that we are trying to contain/constrict
the
plexiglass during expansion and contraction and that just doesn't seem
right. I suppose the Glasair guys with 10 year old ships should be able
to
put my concerns at ease.
Oh well, just the over analysing dentist in me.
JOhn G. #409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have
remarked that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of
the door. I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached
them to the door?
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
I was also considering something like this by bolding a armrest to the door using
fiberglass layups.
Ray
---- rv10builder wrote:
>
> A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have
> remarked that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of
> the door. I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached
> them to the door?
>
> Brian Sutherland
> Nashville, TN
> N104BS
> 42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
give 'em a book or something else that takes two hands to do, and then tell
them to install armrests in their airplane!- Oh - they're riding in your
s!=0A=0ARob=0Acan't wait to take some pax=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>=0ATo: "rv10-list@matronics
.com" =0ASent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 9:05:56 PM
rv10builder =0A=0AA couple of- flight instruct
ors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have =0Aremarked that I should consider i
nstalling an armrest on the inside of =0Athe door.- I've seen the center
console solution but has anyone attached =0Athem to the door?=0A=0ABrian Su
therland=0ANashville, TN=0AN104BS=0A42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo
-=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall
==========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Brian,
I don't have armrests, just some padding on the lower part of the door.
Also, I painted the upper part with texture paint, like truck bedliner.
Whatever I did, when it came back from upholstry with the new padding in
place, the strut wouldn't hold the door up all the time. It's just heavy
eneough now to let it come slamming down if it's cold or in a gentle breeze.
I measured the strut force and it's fine--I guess it's just a heavy door
now.
Both doors are virtually identical, but the left side stays up just fine.
So, be careful what you add to the door.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 6:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Armrest?
A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have remarked
that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of the door.
I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached them to the
door?
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Archer ELT Antenna |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
Cheers,
Jay
For those with email digest:
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188442#188442
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/archereltantennarv10_186.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
I just had an interior guy install arm rests on my plane and what he
did, which I thought was a good idea, was to installed a couple of nut
plates in the arm rest and then put an aluminum doubler on the part
that mates up against the door panel. Then he made another doubler for
the opposite side of the door panel and ran the screws through that
piece into the arm rests nut plates.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
> On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> .... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would
> have added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken
> it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond
> thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left the flange
> one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe
the following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the
fiberglass. The results are appended as text below in case the
attachment can't be posted.
It's clear that even a stretchy Sikaflex glue line cannot accommodate
the necessary movement unless it is _very_ thick. For example, the
door glue line would have to be uniformly 1/8" thick to accept the
contraction of 0.07" (on the diagonal) that would result from cooling
to - 35 =B0F from a fabrication temperature of 75 =B0F. In that
situation
the glue would have to stretch 15%. I think that would be near the
limit, and it might break or become un-bonded if it were thinner
anywhere. The flange is nowhere near deep enough to give that kind of
thickness, and of course the flange depth and plexi thickness are not
completely uniform.
Sikaflex tech support briefly reviewed the situation with me and
agreed. Apparently more than a few tens of percent stretch is not
tolerable. My expectation is that the allowable stretch might be less
at low temperatures, but I didn't ask them.
After talking to Van's engineering about the situation, it finally
dawned on me that the RV10 design approach was to hard bond (very
little flexibility) the plexi to the fiberglass and let the expansion
forces be taken by deformation of the structure. This puts tremendous
forces on the adhesive. For that reason, we elected to stay with Van's
design and materials.
As pointed out in other posts, this is essentially the same approach
as epoxying the window in place and making a glass flange around its
periphery, a la Glasair, et al. Quite a change from the free-floating
windows in Cessna, et al, huh?
John Ackerman 40458
Assume: Zero stress at fabrication
Plexi and GRP expand and contract as "free bodies" - bond
stretches
No deformation of acrylic or GRP (as opposed to expansion)
Acrylic free to expand and contract in flange "joggle"
Perfect fit of window in flange "joggle"
Expansion coeff's from:
http://www.edl-inc.com/Plastic%20expansion%20rates.htm
3.80E-05 Thermal expansion coefficient, acrylic, per =B0F
2.00E-05 Thermal expansion coefficient, epoxy GRP, per =B0F
1.80E-05 Differential thermal expansion coefficient, per =B0F
145 Max temp, =B0F (Phoenix Summer in sun)
-35 Min temp =B0F (North Dakota winter in hangar)
75 Fabrication temp =B0
110 Max temp swing from zero stress state, =B0F
36 Max length of door window (diagonal), inch
0.071 Max length change of door window, inch
0.036 Max bond point movement, inch
27.5 Max length of rear window (diagonal), inch
0.054 Max length change of rear window, inch
0.027 Max bond point movement, inch
Elongation ratio is the stretched length of a section of adhesive
between the fiberglass and the plexi, divided by its unstretched length.
Door Cabin
elongation, in 0.071 0.027
Bond thickness, in Elongation Ratio
1/8 1.15 1.02
1/16 1.52 1.09
3/64 1.82 1.16
1/32 2.49 1.33
1/64 4.67 2.01
Bond thickness, in % elongation
1/8 15% 2%
1/16 52% 9%
3/64 82% 16%
1/32 149% 33%
1/64 367% 101%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
This was an awesome email. Thank you for truly educating me and making my d
ecision an easier one.
Anyone want to buy five tubes of Sikaflex, cleaner and primer. Darn, I coul
d have filled up my F250 diesel one time with the money I spent on that stu
ff or my Prius six or seven times. Oh , need to figure the hazardous waste
disposal fee also.
John G.
From: johnag5b(at)cableone.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-Lis
t: window adhesives revisited.Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:13:09 -0700
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:.... If I hadn't already p
ainted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the insid
e of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to a
llow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als l
eft the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...We went through this and decid
ed not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the following will be of value to so
mebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | HID replacement lights |
Just spent three hours swapping the halogen landing lights provided by Vans
with a set of 50W direct replacement HID lights. The before and after
pictures should be on http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 in a few
days. Will be able to show the lights at OSH on the 31,1,2.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | leg and wheel fairings |
Just fitted the fairings last afternoon. Outside temps were 112F; higher in
the hangar. Two questions: the plans call for extra layers of glass on the
intersection fairings but do not state where the glass goes. Anybody install
the extra glass? if so where did you put it? Also found that the areas where
they suggest no screws due to access can be easily handled using a button
head screw with an internal hex head. what kind of indicated airspeed
increase was experienced with fairings for a given power setting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | leg and wheel fairings |
Not scientific..but I showed about 14 knots. But again...not scientific.
Very happy with the speed increase and I thought the airplane handled a
little better. Also, my trim did not change. Now, after I did the test I
spent a lot of effort blending in the intersection fairings and they are at
the painter right now. My plan is to get them on the plan Friday and do
some more testing with the paint on..final config. Based on the first bit
of testing, I am hoping for the best.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: leg and wheel fairings
Just fitted the fairings last afternoon. Outside temps were 112F; higher in
the hangar. Two questions: the plans call for extra layers of glass on the
intersection fairings but do not state where the glass goes. Anybody install
the extra glass? if so where did you put it? Also found that the areas where
they suggest no screws due to access can be easily handled using a button
head screw with an internal hex head. what kind of indicated airspeed
increase was experienced with fairings for a given power setting?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
Jay,
ELT or MKR BCN?
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
Cheers,
Jay
For those with email digest:
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188442#188442
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/archereltantennarv10_186.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
Keep in mind that any ELT will not meet the TSO requirement without its
manufacturer antenna. They are all TSO approved with their own specific
antenna, and you are required by regulation to have a TSO'd ELT
regardless of the type of aircraft, if you don't want to be bound by the
limitations of no ELT. Can't say how many FSDO types are that sharp on
the subject.
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Jay,
>
> ELT or MKR BCN?
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
>
>
> Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> For those with email digest:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a=C2-silicone based pro
duct I have to consider those ratio's also but,=C2- I have the video from
the Glasair folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is
a gap left around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this
should eliminate the contraction space=C2-problem.=C2- Given the differ
ent expansion and contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems
that no matter what you did the only time the glass would not be either und
er negative or positive compression would be at the exact temperature that
occurred during installation. This would explain the cracks around the wind
ows installed with Weldon=C2-since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid
bond between both materials. If you allow for expansion and the material us
ed in the expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would presen
t a better option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows=C2
-with flox/epoxy and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to th
e gap hopefully preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders wit
h 10 plus years on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or simi
lar silicone=C2-and they had no problems...This is kinda getting like pri
mer wars in a way. If you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you wil
l see their windows are installed with a defined gap around the plexi to ca
bin flange, the gap is filled with a material either like proseal or silico
ne...maybe anyone with experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed
more light on that install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpru
f install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On =C2-Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: .... If I hadn't al
ready painted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to th
e inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flan
ge to allow a greqater bond thickness Also,=C2-at initial trimming I woul
d have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
That was kinda my point....that's why I asked if it was the ELT or MB since they
all come with their own antenna. Bob Archer is known for his coax makeshift
marker beacon ant. which work like a champ, along with the other sheet metal gems
for NAV/COM.
Rick Sked
40185
MY ELT will be outta date if I don't get this finished soon!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:27:57 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
Keep in mind that any ELT will not meet the TSO requirement without its
manufacturer antenna. They are all TSO approved with their own specific
antenna, and you are required by regulation to have a TSO'd ELT
regardless of the type of aircraft, if you don't want to be bound by the
limitations of no ELT. Can't say how many FSDO types are that sharp on
the subject.
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Jay,
>
> ELT or MKR BCN?
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
>
>
> Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> For those with email digest:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: leg and wheel fairings |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Two layers of glass over the entire upper and lower intersection fairings. Those
parts as received from Van's are only 2 layers thick, and would not survive
without the extra layers.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188554#188554
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Finished opening everything up this evening. Not flying yet, so, of course, no
issues with the bulkhead.
We did manage to easily remove the trim without getting into the tailcone. Did
it all from the outside. Should get the doublers installed tomorrow and plan to
have it all back together by Saturday. Drilling out 52 (?) rivets was the worst
part, so far. I elongated a couple of holes a bit, so might have to install
oversize rivets.
Would there be any problem installing a bolt or screw and lock nut in an oversize
hole?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188560#188560
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Tested the new HID replacements tonight. The after pictures will be on the
http://www.planelights.com/ in a couple of days. The results were
extraordinary. I would not consider taxi at night with Vans halogen lights.
These lights are 3-4 times brighter and more focused than the standard
lights. I will show them if interested at OSH 31,1,2. I will be camping in
RV10 headquarters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
Can these HID lights be used with a Wig - Wag system that alternates from left
side to right?
Thanks
Ray
---- David McNeill wrote:
> Tested the new HID replacements tonight. The after pictures will be on the
> http://www.planelights.com/ in a couple of days. The results were
> extraordinary. I would not consider taxi at night with Vans halogen lights.
> These lights are 3-4 times brighter and more focused than the standard
> lights. I will show them if interested at OSH 31,1,2. I will be camping in
> RV10 headquarters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural
component? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if
structural, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product I
have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasair
folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap left
around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should
eliminate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and
contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or
positive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during
installation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed
with Weldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both
materials. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the
expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would present a better
option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy
and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully
preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years
on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and
they had no problems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If
you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are
installed with a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is
filled with a material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with
experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that
install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have
added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I
could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial
trimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the
following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass.
The results are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be
posted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Any updates?
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
> Rob (or anyone in Oregon who knows)
> Status on the composite blade testing completed yet?
> -Performance on climb?
> -cruise?
> -smoothness compared to 2 and/or 3 blade props ?
> -Any general thoughts?
>
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:11 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
Good point, I have not heard the "are the windows structural?" point come u
p as far as=C2-I can recall.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:39:54 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural compon
ent?=C2- I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if st
ructural, then Weldon, I would think.=C2-
John Jessen
=C2-=C2- 40328
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a=C2-silicone based pro
duct I have to consider those ratio's also but,=C2- I have the video from
the Glasair folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is
a gap left around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this
should eliminate the contraction space=C2-problem.=C2- Given the differ
ent expansion and contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems
that no matter what you did the only time the glass would not be either und
er negative or positive compression would be at the exact temperature that
occurred during installation. This would explain the cracks around the wind
ows installed with Weldon=C2-since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid
bond between both materials. If you allow for expansion and the material us
ed in the expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would presen
t a better option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows=C2
-with flox/epoxy and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to th
e gap hopefully preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders wit
h 10 plus years on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or simi
lar silicone=C2-and they had no problems...This is kinda getting like pri
mer wars in a way. If you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you wil
l see their windows are installed with a defined gap around the plexi to ca
bin flange, the gap is filled with a material either like proseal or silico
ne...maybe anyone with experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed
more light on that install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpru
f install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On =C2-Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: .... If I hadn't al
ready painted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to th
e inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flan
ge to allow a greqater bond thickness Also,=C2-at initial trimming I woul
d have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted. href
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr
onics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matroni
=============
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
The forming process tends to curve the parts, once you start to match drill
them and cleco them they end up being straight...unless they are REALLY cu
rved bad. I recall the spar doublers being this way for sure, I just used h
and pressure to bring them back to flat.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42:16 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags.
=C2- I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved.=C2- I w
ould think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS
front and rear spars and other spars.=C2- Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact.=C2- Box arrived via Fedex G
round.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
This is normal.
Some bending of the thick punched parts is unavoidable due to the forces need to
cut the thicker stock. Just bend it back over the edge of a bench prior to
match drilling.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188619#188619
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
Rick and all,
I asked Van personally at a gathering of like minded plane nuts a while ago
if the windows provided any structural strength. He said "oh a little, not
much but a little". I then said "So did you engineers say - We should add a
window there for strength". He sorta chuckled and said they did provide
some strength but not much. One thing he did say was the windows were
installed when they did the drop test but he couldn't remember if they blew
out or cracked. I always wondered if anyone has dropped one on its back
(hopefully in test). I assumed the results were good but I didn't ask.
-Ben
#40579
PDX
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Good point, I have not heard the "are the windows structural?" point come up
as far as I can recall.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:39:54 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural
component? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if
structural, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product I
have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasair
folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap left
around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should
eliminate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and
contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or
positive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during
installation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed
with Weldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both
materials. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the
expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would present a better
option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy
and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully
preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years
on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and
they had no problems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If
you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are
installed with a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is
filled with a material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with
experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that
install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have
added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I
could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial
trimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the
following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass.
The results are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be
posted.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
you'll be doing a lot of this.. look at the plans under the HS (or
respective section) and see what they look like when you install them.
Match the part number to the respective section. The only curving I
recall is one that required me to do it.
Congrats on the new kit!
Pascal
From: John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts
bags. I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I
would think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the
HS front and rear spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex
Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote:
> You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
> on early purchase of tickets.
>
> --
That must be why they extended the discount period [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188655#188655
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS doublers and j channels |
I'm at the same point you are, with same observations. Progress is slow
when hangar reaches 110 by 10 am.
Kelly
40866
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
>
>
>
> I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
> concepts on this list.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Jessen
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
>
>
>
> Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to
> see how to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put
> in a padded vise at several different positions and using hand forces,
> just push in opposite direction of the curve, working your way along
> the length of the doubler a little at a time until straight. No need
> to whack it with anything resembling a club. Not sure about the
> J-curves. I think those come back into alignment through cleco and
> riveting.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
> Cumins
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
>
> Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small
> parts bags. I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all
> curved. I would think they would ne straight. They are used to be
> doublers for the HS front and rear spars and other spars. Has any
> one seen this in there kits besides me.
>
>
>
> All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via
> Fedex Ground.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Finished opening everything up this evening. Not flying yet, so, of course, no
issues with the bulkhead.
> We did manage to easily remove the trim without getting into the tailcone. Did
it all from the outside. Should get the doublers installed tomorrow and plan
to have it all back together by Saturday. Drilling out 52 (?) rivets was the
worst part, so far. I elongated a couple of holes a bit, so might have to install
oversize rivets.
>
Not an answer for a purist, but depending on how bad it's off, a regular
rivet will do just fine. Unless, of course you have a lot of oversize
rivets on hand ...... ;-)
> Would there be any problem installing a bolt or screw and lock nut in an oversize
hole?
>
No problem .....just added weight.
Linn
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
I have been flying the two blade composite for around 6 weeks on my RV-4.
Everyone that has flown in the RV-4 comments on how smooth the new prop is.
The 12 pound weight reduction on the nose also made the plane fly noticeably
better. It is hard to tell if there is any difference in speed.
Rob Hickman
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | HS doublers and j channels |
Kelly
Yes it is, been hot here to but cooling off in the evenings. We are down to
inv. the many bags of small parts and needs to build shelf above garage
door foe all the flat skins.
Have fn and try and stay cool.
John G. Cumins
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS doublers and j channels
I'm at the same point you are, with same observations. Progress is slow when
hangar reaches 110 by 10 am.
Kelly
40866
John Cumins wrote:
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href=
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
href=
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href=
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
| From: | "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs(at)gmail.com> |
I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or lack there of),
but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would never see a future crack that
may develop underneath. I understand the plate is to strengthen the part to
keep it from cracking. Is there a chance of a crack forming with the plate
riveted on?
Thanks, Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> Not too bad of a discount, $2 a day times 5 days = enough to get that first bottle
of water for free!!
>
> Rick Sked
> ---
I didn't spend a whole lot of time reading it but if I read it correctly, EAA is
not offering the discount. It is Jeppesen that is paying for the discount.
If that is in fact true, I will have to go by and thank them. They already get
some of my money and as soon as I get the -10 in the air, they will be getting
a bunch more. :?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188706#188706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
A proper inspection views both sides. In this case the opposite of the
doubler will reveal any migration down the road. I am always amazed to
see builder's with cracks that do not document their length during a
Conditional. At the next Conditional they go 'Yup, still there'. Then
we measure it to create a baseline and find it has been slowly migrating
over the life of the airframe.
Stress relief and tortional transfer into the doubler are important
parts of the correction. No one is commenting on the appearance that
the CNC relief groove for the flanges (two of them) seem to be larger
than offered on the virgin parts. This could have been a manufacturing
crack which was treated by the builder (the factory) with deburring and
grinding prior to original assemblage. A crack is a crack is a crack.
It is not going away. It is coming back to play another day.
"Metal has memory".
Anyone want to play on a review of the pictures?
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 2eyedocs
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or lack
there of), but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would never see a
future crack that may develop underneath. I understand the plate is to
strengthen the part to keep it from cracking. Is there a chance of a
crack forming with the plate riveted on?
Thanks, Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
before and after pictures of my 10 are on
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
You talking about the "Big Taste Grill" truck from Johnsonville Brats?
msausen wrote:
> Ya, but it's the massive $5 discount on the weekly ticket that gets you a brat.
HA
>
> --
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188758#188758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | HID replacement lights |
David,
Stop it already! Every time I think I am done buying 'goodies' for my plan
e, somebody comes up with one of those have to have it items that cost me m
ore money!
So tell us, what is the heat output of the HID vs. the stock Halogen's? I
am concerned about the heat warping the fiberglass wingtip....and I am sure
others are concerned and would like to know also.
Pete
(not sure where I'm at anymore - too many little things left to do!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
That's very impressive. I almost wish I hadn't cut my leading edges for
the Duckworks lights!
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HIDs
before and after pictures of my 10 are on
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID replacement lights |
Check out their site for some other questions. I had the same thought
and recall they had a Q& A
Q:Do they get hot
A: Yes, but the heat is directly equivalent to the power being applied.
If your original application was designed for a 55w halogen, then going
to a 35w or a 50w HID should not generate a significant amount more heat
than the original halogen.
From: James, Peter [SD]
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: HID replacement lights
David,
Stop it already! Every time I think I am done buying 'goodies' for my
plane, somebody comes up with one of those have to have it items that
cost me more money!
So tell us, what is the heat output of the HID vs. the stock Halogen's?
I am concerned about the heat warping the fiberglass wingtip..and I am
sure others are concerned and would like to know also.
Pete
(not sure where I'm at anymore - too many little things left to do!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID replacement lights |
forgot the link.. has the wig-wag answer as well
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=684
From: James, Peter [SD]
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: HID replacement lights
David,
Stop it already! Every time I think I am done buying 'goodies' for my
plane, somebody comes up with one of those have to have it items that
cost me more money!
So tell us, what is the heat output of the HID vs. the stock Halogen's?
I am concerned about the heat warping the fiberglass wingtip..and I am
sure others are concerned and would like to know also.
Pete
(not sure where I'm at anymore - too many little things left to do!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | billet door guide fasteners |
hi all,
another lister who bought some of my door guides brought up a good
point. he was concerned about the attach screws that I use and their
strength, and more importantly the quality ( consistency ). I buy most
hardware from mcmaster carr , and after a little searching found a
stainless fastener of the same size but mil spec and rated at 80k
tensile strength. I'm switching to this screw and am inviting all who
bought door guides to drop me an email with your address and I'll send
out the new hardware. sorry I don't keep personal info after the sale...
Steven DiNieri
iflyrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | HID replacement lights |
the replacement HID seems to have less radiated heat to the fiberglass tip.
When testing the lights I placed my hand about 1.5" ahead of the tip of the
light (lens off) and it became hot; but , for unknown reasons the HID did
not heat the strobe glass directly in front of it. going flying tonight so
will have more info later.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James, Peter [SD]
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: HID replacement lights
David,
Stop it already! Every time I think I am done buying 'goodies' for my
plane, somebody comes up with one of those have to have it items that cost
me more money!
So tell us, what is the heat output of the HID vs. the stock Halogen's? I
am concerned about the heat warping the fiberglass wingtip..and I am sure
others are concerned and would like to know also.
Pete
(not sure where I'm at anymore - too many little things left to do!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Depending on what Duckworks option you have, they may have a solutions
already, Their website say's they have a replacement for the 4" lights.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
> Thats very impressive. I almost wish I hadnt cut my leading edges
> for the Duckworks lights!
>
> cj
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
The total install took three hours from wingtip removal to wingtip
installation. the ballast was installed as shown on
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=685 . The ballast is threaded for
8-32 screws and I used an NAS variety available from Spruce with both
Phillips internal and external hex head. I installed the screws from inside
the tip rib with a small ratchet available from HF. I used a washer under
the head of the screw and on the outside of the rib to provide an offset of
the ballast from the tip itself. As the site indicates there is an audible
whine for less than 10 seconds while it warms. No RFI was observed but will
check again tonight when flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: billet door guide fasteners |
Hi Steve,
Please send the new screws to me at:
David Maib
1314 Marquette Ave., #2805
Minneapolis, MN 55403
Thanks!
David
On Friday, June 20, 2008, at 12:31PM, steve dinieri wrote:
>
><>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Guys, a few have been asking the question about composite props so I
thought I'd pass this reply from Hartzell on to the list.
John 40315 (final not so fun bits)
------------------------------
"John,
Sam Gascho forwarded me your e-mail. I am the account rep for Hartzell
Propeller that handles Vans.
We should have a composite 3-blade prop on an RV-10 in the next month.
The same builder is also testing a 2-blade prop on his RV-4. I am
waiting on data from that test. The one comment that he did share was
how much smoother the 2-blade composite prop is compared to his 2-blade
metal.
Are you getting a lot of requests from builders in Australia for a
Hartzell composite prop?
Vans has not decided if they want to offer our composite prop. I've
asked RV builders that call me for a composite prop to e-mail or call
Vans asking it the plan to offer the Hartzell composite prop.
I should have some test data on the RV-4 soon, and RV-10 data in the
next month. Please feel free to check back with me.
Regards,
Kevin Karam
Account Representative
Hartzell Propeller, Inc.
(P) +1-937-778-5731
(F) +1-937-778-4321
kkaram(at)hartzellprop.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop |
Just another reason for builders to call and send e-mails to Van's to
offer the prop for RV-10's. If there is enough demand (price being the
factor) Van's may very well offer it.. Not sure why the hesitation, it's
not like they have a MT on one of there planes and hence only sell what
they have tested.
From: John Dunne
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Prop
Guys, a few have been asking the question about composite props so I
thought I'd pass this reply from Hartzell on to the list.
John 40315 (final not so fun bits)
------------------------------
"John,
Sam Gascho forwarded me your e-mail. I am the account rep for Hartzell
Propeller that handles Vans.
We should have a composite 3-blade prop on an RV-10 in the next month.
The same builder is also testing a 2-blade prop on his RV-4. I am
waiting on data from that test. The one comment that he did share was
how much smoother the 2-blade composite prop is compared to his 2-blade
metal.
Are you getting a lot of requests from builders in Australia for a
Hartzell composite prop?
Vans has not decided if they want to offer our composite prop. I've
asked RV builders that call me for a composite prop to e-mail or call
Vans asking it the plan to offer the Hartzell composite prop.
I should have some test data on the RV-4 soon, and RV-10 data in the
next month. Please feel free to check back with me.
Regards,
Kevin Karam
Account Representative
Hartzell Propeller, Inc.
(P) +1-937-778-5731
(F) +1-937-778-4321
kkaram(at)hartzellprop.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)AOL.COM |
Thanks, Dave. Great pictures to boot.
I'm half way through the SB, what a pain in the royal butt this is......
In a message dated 6/20/2008 1:21:04 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
The total install took three hours from wingtip removal to wingtip
installation. the ballast was installed as shown on
_http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=685_ (http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=685) . The ballast is
threaded for 8-32 screws and I used an NAS variety available from Spruce with
both Phillips internal and external hex head. I installed the screws from
inside the tip rib with a small ratchet available from HF. I used a washer under
the head of the screw and on the outside of the rib to provide an offset of
the ballast from the tip itself. As the site indicates there is an audible
whine for less than 10 seconds while it warms. No RFI was observed but will
check again tonight when flying.
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
What is the alternator belt for the IO540; seems like there was a Gates
number?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator belt |
David, the belt that came w/ my B&C alternator is marked : 7365 GATES
XL 110925
Deems
David McNeill wrote:
> What is the alternator belt for the IO540; seems like there was a
> Gates number?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Carpets from IFLYRV10 |
Has anyone used the carpets from IFLYRV10; if so what do you think of
them?
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
728DD-No cracks found at 220 hours,will install the doublers at next annual.
**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient
used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)AOL.COM |
Has anyone done much hood time or actual IMC flying with the GRT units.I am a
high time CFII and would like to discuss it
offline.Pilotdds(at)aol.com-thanks.728DD-220hrs
**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
104BK-No cracks found at 2005 hours. Oops, that's build time.
Bob K
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
728DD-No cracks found at 220 hours,will install the doublers at next annual.
**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sean garrison" <sean(at)hangerg.com> |
I was wondering has anyone considered using an LS1 with PSRU? I am a looking
at this as a possible engine source but would like some feedback. I am a
first time builder and any info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Do you mean like?
http://www.vestav8.com/
or
http://www.geareddrives.com/
There a couple about ready to fly, but I'm not aware of any flying as of
yet.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sean garrison
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 2:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: engines
I was wondering has anyone considered using an LS1 with PSRU? I am a looking
at this as a possible engine source but would like some feedback. I am a
first time builder and any info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sean garrison" <sean(at)hangerg.com> |
The geareddrive is what caught my eye at Sun&Fun.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: engines
Do you mean like?
http://www.vestav8.com/
or
http://www.geareddrives.com/
There a couple about ready to fly, but I'm not aware of any flying as of
yet.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sean garrison
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 2:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: engines
I was wondering has anyone considered using an LS1 with PSRU? I am a looking
at this as a possible engine source but would like some feedback. I am a
first time builder and any info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net> |
Deems,
You are correct, we recently added 35w and 50w 'Low Cost' replacement HID
lights (see our 'Upgrades' page).
We have the MR-16 2" HID lights for the Tips in both wattages.
We also have GE-H3 style HID lights that are simple, direct replacements for
the Halogen bulbs in our lights.
These lights work very well, in fact Joe Blank just installed a couple in
his old RMD style wing tips using my PAR-36 Reflectors with the Low Cost 35W
HID. He reported back that he has now lifted his self-imposed 'ban' on
night landings at his home strip, since the 4" HID lights work so well.
Remember, if you want a 'long' beam that will light up the runway when you
turn final, a 4" light will outperform a 2" light, it's simple math.
But if you do have the MR-16 tip lights, the HID is far 'brighter', cooler,
uses less power, and doesn't burn out, making the HID version a great
upgrade.
OH, and we have finally joined the modern world - we just enabled Credit
Card processing on our website, on the 'Upgrades' page initially.
Don 'The Duck' Wentz
Duckworks Aviation .com
RV-6 N790DW (flying since 1994)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HIDs
Depending on what Duckworks option you have, they may have a solutions
already, Their website say's they have a replacement for the 4" lights.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
> That's very impressive. I almost wish I hadn't cut my leading edges
> for the Duckworks lights!
>
> cj
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sam(at)fr8dog.net" <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
I've done some IMC flying with the GRT's. Give me a call on Skype,I'm sam.marlow.
---- PILOTDDS(at)aol.com wrote:
============
Has anyone done much hood time or actual IMC flying with the GRT units.I am a
high time CFII and would like to discuss it
offline.Pilotdds(at)aol.com-thanks.728DD-220hrs
**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Hey John, glad you got the SB going!
I just finished the SB today myself. Had me and 2 ladies
to do the work...they did most of it. We got the HS completely
off and ready to drill rivets in maybe 2-2.5 hours. Had the
doublers in place after lunch, the reassembly went fairly
well. I'll do a write-up on it. My reassembly was perhaps
longer than some peoples would be, due to some wiring related
things that I did in addition.
Total time was about 9.25 hours to complete the SB, and another
.25 to test fly it.
This one will definitely have a write-up, although I didn't
take much for photos since there is already a great online
photo display of it.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rv8erpics/RV10SB0861?authkey=HdMqmAzGxsc
I agree, as far as the holes in the HS go, except I removed my
HS and Elevators/trim tabs as a unit, so I only had to pull the
cables from the trim mechanism.
I did all of my rivets with a rivet gun, and it went real
quick and easy.
I found no cracks in the bulkhead, by the way, at 349 hours.
And I've flown it hard enough shaking that tail with that
stall series I did video and photos of that I figure if I
don't have cracks, not many will. More on that later though.
The job goes fastest with at least 2 people. Having 3 there was
nice in that I was always able to work nonstop as they helped
with the peripheral tasks so I could plug away.
Glad to be done!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
GenGrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> **
>
> For what it's worth for you who have not begun the wonderful task of
> doing the SB on the rear bulkhead, here's some data for you.
>
> Started yesterday afternoon, worked all day today. 10.5 hrs so far with
> about 2 hrs to go to finish.
>
> This is with 2 people working dedicated full time, and assisted by 2
> others when it came time to pull the horizontals off with those blasted
> trim cables.
>
> For those still building the horizontals, make the holes for the cables
> bigger than the plans say in case you ever have to take the tail off......
>
> Riveting the doublers in and re-doing the top plate.......we used hand
> squeezers as well as 2 different jaw'd pneumatic squeezers plus rivet
> gun and bucking bar to get to all of the required rivets.
>
> Not a fun job at all.
>
> No cracks in my bulkhead at 70 hrs prior to installing the doublers.
>
> Not a fun or easy job. Find some extra hands to help - you'll need them.
>
> grumpy
> N`84JM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rsipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
No cracks at 40 hours, installed parts at paint shop just before
paint. Whew!
Dick Sipp
N110DV 40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to read
correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
I have done some IFR also. email me offline.
Rob.
On Sat, Jun 21, 2008 at 1:24 PM, wrote:
> Has anyone done much hood time or actual IMC flying with the GRT units.I am
> a high time CFII and would like to discuss it
> offline.Pilotdds(at)aol.com-thanks.728DD-220hrs
>
>
> **************
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
>
--
Rob Kermanj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
Chris, make sure you have the Pulses per Rev setting in the Dynon set correctly.
Mine is set to 1.5 and that is with dual Slick Mags. If will be different
if you have light speed etc.
It would also be helpful to have a optical sensor tach like the ones used
for Remote Control Airplanes. They work well at around $15 for these tests.
Ray
---- Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to read
> correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with that.
The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's with a
resistor that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as long as the
"pulses per revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is. I have never
had a problem with bad readings at low RPM's. Where exactly are you
seeing the issue? Are you seeing it on both mags or just on one
specifically?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> >
>
> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to
> read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several
> resistors
>
> Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Jesse I have the 2 sensor wires going to the switch with a resistor on each.
Dynon is set to1.5. I have not tried individual mags as do not know how.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon RPM
>
> I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with that.
> The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's with a resistor
> that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as long as the "pulses per
> revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is. I have never had a problem
> with bad readings at low RPM's. Where exactly are you seeing the issue?
> Are you seeing it on both mags or just on one specifically?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
>> > >
>>
>> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to
>> read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Run it with the switch on left and then on right and see how it
compares to an optical tach. You do have dual slicks? Make sure your
optical tach is correct also. I haven't seen one with problems, but
it is definitely possible. Also, are you reading 200rpm off at a
certain reading, or at all rpm's? If the 200 is constant, then I
can't imagine what else could be the difference since a wrong setting
in the Dynon should give you a difference relative to rpm.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 22, 2008, at 8:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> >
>
> Jesse I have the 2 sensor wires going to the switch with a resistor
> on each. Dynon is set to1.5. I have not tried individual mags as do
> not know how.
>
> Chris
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:38 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon RPM
>
>
>>
>>
>> I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with
>> that. The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's
>> with a resistor that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as
>> long as the "pulses per revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is.
>> I have never had a problem with bad readings at low RPM's. Where
>> exactly are you seeing the issue? Are you seeing it on both mags
>> or just on one specifically?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho
>>> to read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several
>>> resistors
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: leg and wheel fairings |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Lew,
I think Van's instructions are referring to getting a good fit between the lower
intersection fairing and the wheel pants, and upper fairing to fuselage/wing
surface. I did away with sheet metal screws or nutplates by using the method
of Vic Syracuse and others. My lower intersection fairings are permanently glassed
to the wheel pants, then split in line with the wheel pant split. Once the
fairing to wheel pant seam is micro'd and body worked it has a very clean, sexy
appearance.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189080#189080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello There,
it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can not reach
it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go about it in order
to achieve the requested torque (140)
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
1/4 inch drive with extention. I had the same and with the thinner socket i
was anle to do it
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>
>
> Hello There,
>
> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can not
> reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go about
> it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AF 3500 Sensor pack questions |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Guys,
for those who are using the sensor pack from AFS where did you place the shunt
and the manifold sensor. Pictures appreciated.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189146#189146
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Wow! Challenging picture:
Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
time for such close interference.
Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
John Cox
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
Hello There,
it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
1/4" drive "wobble sockets" work great too. I've found them locally at Sears.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189151#189151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
#1 or # 2. Loosen the nut just enough to be able to move the pipe a
little. Place socket on each nut to ensure the pipe is centered
between the studs.
Every Lycoming exhaust port is just like this.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 3:22 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Wow! Challenging picture:
>
> Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
> Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
> modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
> bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
> time for such close interference.
>
> Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
> regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
> challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
> appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
>
> John Cox
> #600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Wellenzohn
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>
>
>
> Hello There,
>
> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
> not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
> about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
Forgot to mention...my Mooney calls for an AN-310-3 nut there. Key is
to replace those nuts every few hundred hours, as soon as they show
any signs of corrosion.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 5:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> #1 or # 2. Loosen the nut just enough to be able to move the pipe a
> little. Place socket on each nut to ensure the pipe is centered
> between the studs.
> Every Lycoming exhaust port is just like this.
>
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 3:22 PM, John Cox wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Challenging picture:
>>
>> Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
>> Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
>> modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
>> bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
>> time for such close interference.
>>
>> Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
>> regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
>> challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
>> appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
>>
>> John Cox
>> #600
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
>> Wellenzohn
>> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello There,
>>
>> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
>> not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
>> about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>>
>> Thanks
>> Michael
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick interference |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
This is a very old thread, but it is exactly where I am right now. I did the duty
search and found that the range of motion due to the bolts is a minor issue
for me, as well.
With more people passing through this stage, any comments? I think the bolt interference
is a non issue because of the stops on the flight surfaces, right? Or,
have other people reversed the bolts?
John
[quote="armywrights(at)adelphia.n"]All,
Ive removed the front covers that fit around the control sticks. The plans say
to move the controls throughout their full range of motion to check for interference.
What is the actual full range of motion? Of course I can make the ends
of the bolts on the control stick bases touch the F1033L control column mounts
(P 39-7 and 39-8) as well as make the control pushrod (F1065) touch the curved
slot in the sides of the tunnel.
I believe that once I attach the control surfaces this extra movement will go away,
yet the plans say to check for interference without the surfaces installed
(p39-8 Step 3). What other experiences are out there? Did anyone have to hack
up the pre-formed slots or other areas once the control surfaces were installed?
Rob Wright
#392 QB Fuse
Control Sticks temp installed looks like an airplane!!
> [b]
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189190#189190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
Fortunately, I still haven't joined my tailcone or have cables in the way, but
I began the doubler plate work yesterday. I found that drilling out the old #30
rivets was hard to reach as the shop heads were facing forward and the taper
of the fuselage made the angle tough (Did go buy an angle drill tool for this).
I clecoed the doublers on the forward side of the bulkhead and carefully drilled
perpendicular to make the many new #30 holes, then mounted it on the aft
side, reamed, and then deburred everything. Having more than one set of hands
will be handy to get the last few rivets in.
June 05, 2008 - June 23, 2008
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