RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dn
July 14, 2008 - July 29, 2008
plane is at the painters -------- finally!
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N402RH First Flight |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Awesome kuddos. Naturally you will have to give full wiring and demo seminars at
OSH to make the trip tax deductible.
Take it slow on the fly off. If you do not make OSH it will not be the end of the
world. Be safe and VERY careful. Your family and clients all need you around
for a lot of years. Safety first and always.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192787#192787
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic belt sander. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
I believe I'm the one who led you to it. Here is the web page:
http://www.toolsource.com/belt-sander-p-76749.html?sourceid=nextag
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192819#192819
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pnuematic belt sander. |
Thanks John=2C
Someone in my office put it in a safe place out of sight while I was away.
I've got it and I am not crazy.
Thank you.
John> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pnuematic belt sander.> From: johngoodman@ear
thlink.net> Date: Tue=2C 15 Jul 2008 05:28:47 -0700> To: rv10-list@matronic
ink.net>> > John=2C> I believe I'm the one who led you to it. Here is the w
eb page:> http://www.toolsource.com/belt-sander-p-76749.html?sourceid=nex
tag> > John> > --------> #40572 QB Fuselage=2C wings finished> N711JG reser
ved> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/vi
==================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: windshield install question |
Neals' "wrong side" block idea looks really good!
Deems suggested a block called Dura-Block available at the auto paint
stores. It's about 1.25" in diameter and 11" long made of a hard EVA
rubber foam. It's just flexible enough and it works like a charm. It
gets wrapped with a whole sheet of sandpaper. I use it by moving at an
angle to the direction of motion for a few strokes, then for the same
number of strokes angled the other way. I use a 45 degree or so angle
for rough work, and a shallower angle for fine work, depending on the
curvature.
For us, the radius to be sanded was Not 7", but rather more like 3.5"
to 4". There just wasn't enough glass in the schedule to make the
larger radius. We did put it on as dry as we could squeegee it out
between two sheets of Visqueen or similar plastic sheet.
After sanding to rough shape, I made another circle gauge out of
masonite, this one of 4.5" radius, and used it to fill the radius
under the front part of the windscreen with micro. The gauge was
covered with packing tape to avoid sticking to the micro. It was drawn
across the thick wet micro, first tilted 45 =B0 in the direction of
motion to get a fairly even spread, then held vertically to form a
well-shaped fillet. The fillet was fairly thin - I'm guessing about
1/16" in the center, going to zero at the tangent points. BTW, I
tried a whole series of gauges to get the best fit. 4.5" worked well
for me.
John Ackerman 40458
On Jul 14, 2008, at 7:29 PM, Neal George wrote:
> Jay ' I used all sorts of stuff for sanding forms at different
> points around the fairing on my RV-7' scrap wood blocks, chunks of
> PVC pipe, a coffee can, a bucket, whatever fit approximated the
> desired curve at a particular point.. One of the most useful was a
> 3M hard rubber sanding block with the paper mounted on the =93wrong=94
> side.
>
> neal
>
> ==================
> Getting the windshield installed---so far, so good. But the plans
> ask you to make a sanding block to conform to the 7" radius between
> the plexi and the fuse. How does one make such a sanding block, and
> out of what kind of material? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Wire |
I got=C2-crimper from Stein and it works great...Coax connections were th
e easiest of all the crimps. I picked up a 3 blade rotary coax=C2-strippe
r on ebay that does a perfect job removing the insulation.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "jason kreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 5:03:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Antenna Wire
How has everyone been creating antenna wires? =C2-Is there a good 'cheap'
tool for crimping on BNC connectors? =C2-I know we can purchase the bulk
wire and connectors, we are just not sure if there is a good reliable way
of crimping on the connectors. =C2-The alternate question would be, does
anyone have a good source for a company that will make custom antenna wires
(we specify the length and connectors)?
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
===============
====
=======================
===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Couple of pics of the panel. Fired it up this week and no smoke.
Congrats Rob. And I second the caution on the fly off time. I may need
you to get any bugs fixed!.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/2008/photo#5223258949683748050
Only problem so far is ICOM 200 won't power up. Dimmer function works
but no display. Time to dive back into the wiring.
AFS 3500/3400 , Garmin 430 , Trutrak autopilot, CDI , ADI. 496
with XM, Icom 200.
Dr Fred
Probaly won't be at Osh. Have the week off to work on the plane. See
you all next year. Fly safe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Custom Hats from SkyGuy.org |
I just received my custom hats from SkyGuy.org. These hats are really cool,
and include a custom embroidered color rendering of your aircraft, your tail
number, and an aircraft name or a custom slogan. Mine say N2700W and 'Ms.
Obsession'. Best of all, they are currently only $10 plus shipping.
I am not affiliated with the company, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn a few
years ago.
(Still lurking and waiting for a suitable place to build my RV-10)
Steve Roberts
N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E, 'Ms. Obsession', Morristown, TN (KMOR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Custom Hats from SkyGuy.org |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Looks very interesting. However, I don't find any way of communicating with them.
I start getting very cautious if I can not contact who I would like doing
business with.
How fast was your turn around and what style of cap is it that they ship?
Gary
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192921#192921
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lightspeed Plasma II on EBay |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
6 cylinder Plasma II on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300242252513&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D300242252513%26_nd1%3D%26submit.x%3D42%26submit.y%3D5%26_fvi%3D1
A friend asked if I'd post this on the Matronics list, other than that I have no
connection to the item.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192922#192922
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Nose gear squeeks |
I have squeaks in my nose gear when I move the nose up and down and when I
taxi on grass. Anyone else notices this. I solved it by spraying the
donuts with soapy water.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
| From: | "Tnelson" <tnlnelson(at)comcast.net> |
Paul,
I am interested in the pedals. Could you provide contact info?
My email is tnlnelson(at)comcast.net
Thanks,
--------
Todd
RV-10
Emp Complete
Slow build wings...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192984#192984
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jonathan Bryant" <bryantje(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | New member hello! |
I've been watching the List from the bushes since January, soaking up
the good advice, and with Oshkosh coming up I thought I'd better join
the ranks of the visible list members.
So, build 40822 is based at Chapel Hill, NC, and after a jump start at
the Alexander Technical Center this spring is now at Section 10-19.
This geography puts me in the same locale as two other RV-10 builders
I'm aware of, Bill Watson (Mauledriver) and Jack Phillips, so with a
little luck I'll stay out of trouble - first inspection by Jack
tomorrow.
My wife Vicky and I will hopefully see you all at Oshkosh.
Regards
Jonathan (fighting premature grin) and Vicky Bryant
#40822
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New member hello! |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Stop by the RV-10 camp area one evening - you'll find a large collection there!
Bill will be camping there again this year and can clue you in.
Welcome!
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue Jul 15 17:14:30 2008
Subject: RV10-List: New member hello!
Ive been watching the List from the bushes since January, soaking up the good advice,
and with Oshkosh coming up I thought Id better join the ranks of the visible
list members.
So, build 40822 is based at Chapel Hill, NC, and after a jump start at the Alexander
Technical Center this spring is now at Section 10-19. This geography puts
me in the same locale as two other RV-10 builders Im aware of, Bill Watson
(Mauledriver) and Jack Phillips, so with a little luck Ill stay out of trouble
first inspection by Jack tomorrow
My wife Vicky and I will hopefully see you all at Oshkosh.
Regards
Jonathan (fighting premature grin) and Vicky Bryant
#40822
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "Scott Keadle" <Scott(at)Keadle.com> |
Scott Keadle , from Lake Norman North Carolina, will be flying N426AK on Thursday
31st in the afternoon and staying until Sunday. Would like to participate in
whatever activities there are planned for RV-10 fliers. Mobile number is 704-650-0249
if anyone needs to contact me for anything.
--------
Scott Keadle
14A, Lake Norman Airpark
N426AK RV-10, final assembly
N246SK, Giles 202, flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192996#192996
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Vans meal ticket |
IIRC I have reserved 4 tickets but will use only three. If anyone needs one
contact me directly and I will make arrangements.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Hey guys,
Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for without
their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot of
their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going toward
the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to pay
for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not camping
(and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles and
the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half "its
for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
Steve dinieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New member hello! |
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com> |
Jonathan, I need to get you up in my RV-4, to really get you working on
an RV-Grin and to get you ready for the Big Grin you'll get when you fly
your RV-10.
I'll see you tonight.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan
Bryant
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 8:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: New member hello!
I've been watching the List from the bushes since January, soaking up
the good advice, and with Oshkosh coming up I thought I'd better join
the ranks of the visible list members.
So, build 40822 is based at Chapel Hill, NC, and after a jump start at
the Alexander Technical Center this spring is now at Section 10-19.
This geography puts me in the same locale as two other RV-10 builders
I'm aware of, Bill Watson (Mauledriver) and Jack Phillips, so with a
little luck I'll stay out of trouble - first inspection by Jack
tomorrow...
My wife Vicky and I will hopefully see you all at Oshkosh.
Regards
Jonathan (fighting premature grin) and Vicky Bryant
#40822
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
notify the sender
immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
rohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
orsk - Portuguese
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning of the Bottom Wing Skin |
There has been discussion in the past about oil canning of the bottom wing
skin. I do not know if this will be true for all kits but I just installed
the right skin and it needed trimming at the main spar edge. It was
necessary to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 to get the skin to lay flat. If I
had not trimmed it the skin would have butted up against the forward skin
and this would have created lots of oil canning. With the skin trimmed and
largely using Vans instruction the skin is tight, a small ding here and
there but tight. Bruising should heal in a week or so.
Wayne Hadath
F1 Rocket C-FAUH 260 hrs
Checked by AVG.
6:03 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Wow, thanks Steve! Sounds like the bankroll for a big RV-10 group
cookout one night!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steven
dinieri
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 11:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Hey guys,
Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in
organizing
and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
without
their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
of
their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
toward
the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
pay
for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
camping
(and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
and
the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
"its
for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
Steve dinieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Will open the bidding at $100.00.
John Cox #40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of steven dinieri
Sent: Tue 7/15/2008 9:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Hey guys,
Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in
organizing
and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
without
their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
of
their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
toward
the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
pay
for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
camping
(and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
and
the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
"its
for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
Steve dinieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve;
This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
Do you have a end of auction time/date?
Thanks!
To start I bid $200
--------------------------------------------------
From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Hey guys,
> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for without
> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
> of
> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going toward
> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
> pay
> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not camping
> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles and
> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
> "its
> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>
> Steve dinieri
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning of the Bottom Wing Skin |
Indeed this is exactly what I found when doing mine and I re did the bottom
lf wing skin after doing the right wing second and having it turn out quit
e a bit better. The redo on the left (This was the third time doing a botto
m skin) turned out great. The holes in the skin were actually out of line w
ith the spare holes=2C the skin holes were closer to the skin seam then the
y should have been. I used an ice pick to gently pull things into alignment
.
John G. 409 ---soaring...not building.
From: whadath(at)rogers.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Oil
Canning of the Bottom Wing SkinDate: Wed=2C 16 Jul 2008 08:47:06 -0400
There has been discussion in the past about oil canning of the bottom wing
skin. I do not know if this will be true for all kits but I just installed
the right skin and it needed trimming at the main spar edge. It was necessa
ry to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 to get the skin to lay flat. If I had no
t trimmed it the skin would have butted up against the forward skin and thi
s would have created lots of oil canning. With the skin trimmed and largely
using Vans instruction the skin is tight=2C a small ding here and there bu
t tight. Bruising should heal in a week or so.
Wayne Hadath
F1 Rocket C-FAUH 260 hrsChecked by AVG.15/07/2008 6:03 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
| Subject: | N402RH First Flight |
Rob,
Congratulations on the first flight. I hope your panel works great because
ours is modeled after yours.
Rick Barnes, Mike Howe
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 6:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH First Flight
S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the first time
this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before flying it to
Oshkosh. It has the new Hartzell three blade composite prop and it is
remarkably quit and smooth.
Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496, MH 4ip
Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
_____
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your
area - Check out <http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112>
TourTracker.com!
6:49 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning of the Bottom Wing Skin |
the slight gap is necessary as the riveting prrocess reduces the gap.No gap
imples buckling and oil canning.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Hadath
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 5:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Canning of the Bottom Wing Skin
There has been discussion in the past about oil canning of the bottom wing
skin. I do not know if this will be true for all kits but I just installed
the right skin and it needed trimming at the main spar edge. It was
necessary to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 to get the skin to lay flat. If I
had not trimmed it the skin would have butted up against the forward skin
and this would have created lots of oil canning. With the skin trimmed and
largely using Vans instruction the skin is tight, a small ding here and
there but tight. Bruising should heal in a week or so.
Wayne Hadath
F1 Rocket C-FAUH 260 hrs
Checked by AVG.
15/07/2008 6:03 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern Oregon
a few days later, and when the plane got back to Watsonville, we found the
left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty severly. Bummer.
In the picture, the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how it
should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the fuselage,
but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think the cover may
have helped trap the heat, but I don't have any proof. The factory seems to
think it would have been worse without it. They talked about a polished
RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has been outside for almost a
year now in some pretty hot, sunny climates without any issues, until the
cover went on.
As a bit of trivia, I just checked and found that the upper wing surface aft
of the spar is slightly concave, unlike an RV-6 we have in the hangar, which
is convex. With the flaps fully retracted, the concavity is more
pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that solar-collecting power...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Seems like you were pretty unlucky to have the plane parked in such a posit
ion to allow the sun to hit the wing and reflect that back up onto the rear
window...really=2C that sucks.
So what you are saying is=2C perhaps white paint on the wings would help pr
event that.
A white canopy cover is a must.
If able=2C park the plane with the nose or tail to the East or West.
Thank you for sharing these unknown mind fields.
A couple of weeks ago I ran over a 3/8" bolt with my car tire and got a fla
t. While changing the tire I wonderred how a bolt could find its' way to ba
lancing on its head=2C thus allowing it to go through my tire.
The next day starting my bike ride I saw the same size bolt in a completely
different location balancing on its' head. I thought that was pretty funny
=2C but then again=2C I was able to avoid it this time.
John G. 409
From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List:
Window TroubleDate: Wed=2C 16 Jul 2008 10:00:19 -0700
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern Orego
n a few days later=2C and when the plane got back to Watsonville=2C we foun
d the left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty severly. Bu
mmer.
In the picture=2C the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how it
should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the fuselage
=2C but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think the cover
may have helped trap the heat=2C but I don't have any proof. The factory
seems to think it would have been worse without it. They talked about a po
lished RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has been outside for alm
ost a year now in some pretty hot=2C sunny climates without any issues=2C u
ntil the cover went on.
As a bit of trivia=2C I just checked and found that the upper wing surface
aft of the spar is slightly concave=2C unlike an RV-6 we have in the hangar
=2C which is convex. With the flaps fully retracted=2C the concavity is mo
re pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that solar-collecting power
...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
steve
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Steve;
> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
> Thanks!
>
> To start I bid $200
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Hey guys,
>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>> without
>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
>> of
>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>> toward
>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
>> pay
>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not camping
>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>> and
>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>> "its
>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>
>> Steve dinieri
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin top - redux |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group... I know this has been beaten to death but have a specific question that
I can't find an answer to in searching the list.
Assuming using headliner similar to what Flightline Interiors or Cleaveland sell....
how smooth does the inside of the top need to be. Does the headliner cover
any blemishes?
To provide a measuring stick... what gauge wire could you run under the headliner
and it now show? That'll give me some idea as to when to cry uncle on the
sanding.
Thanks in advance.
btw ... Hope to see some of ya at Oshkosh. Plan to fly the 7A up a couple times
during the week.
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193151#193151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N402RH Flying Update |
Here are some photo's of the RV-10 with the Hartzell composite prop:
_http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10_
(http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10)
As of this morning 7.4 hours down 32.6 to go before Oshkosh, I should get
another 3 hours on it tonight.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Since I was planning to use Bose headsets in the RV-10 , I had already deci
ded that I would NOT install the standard RCA earphone/mic audio jacks. In
stead I plan to ONLY install the Bose (LEMO) jacks with provision for earph
one/mic audio and power for ANR. That decision is even more reinforced now
that Lightspeed is now offering their Zulu headset with the LEMO connector
. If I ever have to use a standard headset, I carry a RCA earphone/mic aud
io jack to LEMO adapter.=0A=0AThe only thing I cannot determine is if
the Lightspeed LEMO is the same as the BOSE LEMO. I can't find any detail
s on the Lightspeed LEMO and I found one reference that states it is a 5 Pi
n LEMO where I know the Bose LEMO is a 6 pin. It would be a shame if Light
speed used a different form factor than the 6 pin LEMO that is used by Bose
.=0A=0Ahttp://www.lemo.com/pdfs/catalog/ROW/UK_English/unipole_multip
ole.pdf=0A=0ABose owners guide with LEMO pin definitions.=0Ahttp:/
/www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf=0A=0Ahttp:
//www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php=0AThe Bose (LEMO)
panel jacks are available at Aircraft Spruce=0A#11-01846 =0AAircraft
Panel Installation Kit=0A$31.00 =0A=0A=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://n
erv10.com/wcurtis/ =0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
Call Lightspeed and ask. I've found them to be extremely responsive and more than
willing to chat when I've called.
>
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Date: 2008/07/16 Wed PM 02:43:42 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
>
> Since I was planning to use Bose headsets in the RV-10 , I had already decided
that I would NOT install the standard RCA earphone/mic audio jacks. Instead
I plan to ONLY install the Bose (LEMO) jacks with provision for earphone/mic
audio and power for ANR. That decision is even more reinforced now that Lightspeed
is now offering their Zulu headset with the LEMO connector. If I ever have
to use a standard headset, I carry a RCA earphone/mic audio jack to LEMO adapter.
>
> The only thing I cannot determine is if the Lightspeed LEMO is the same as the
BOSE LEMO. I can't find any details on the Lightspeed LEMO and I found one
reference that states it is a 5 Pin LEMO where I know the Bose LEMO is a 6 pin.
It would be a shame if Lightspeed used a different form factor than the 6 pin
LEMO that is used by Bose.
>
> http://www.lemo.com/pdfs/catalog/ROW/UK_English/unipole_multipole.pdf
>
> Bose owners guide with LEMO pin definitions.
> http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
> The Bose (LEMO) panel jacks are available at Aircraft Spruce
> #11-01846
> Aircraft Panel Installation Kit
> $31.00
>
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
William,
I have both in mine, standard RCA and the Bose panel powered LEMO but I would love
to take my Bose to other aircraft, do you know of an adapter that will go
on the LEMO to RCA jacks? At OSH last year they said nothing excpet they would
sell me a new cord for the headset for $135 but it would be easy for me to swap
out..something I'd rather not do. I do plan another Bose for the RV-10...just
I have two other perfectly good ANR headsets for passengers that don't have
their own.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 12:43:42 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
Since I was planning to use Bose headsets in the RV-10 , I had already decided
that I would NOT install the standard RCA earphone/mic audio jacks. Instead I
plan to ONLY install the Bose (LEMO) jacks with provision for earphone/mic audio
and power for ANR. That decision is even more reinforced now that Lightspeed
is now offering their Zulu headset with the LEMO connector. If I ever have
to use a standard headset, I carry a RCA earphone/mic audio jack to LEMO adapter.
The only thing I cannot determine is if the Lightspeed LEMO is the same as the
BOSE LEMO. I can't find any details on the Lightspeed LEMO and I found one reference
that states it is a 5 Pin LEMO where I know the Bose LEMO is a 6 pin.
It would be a shame if Lightspeed used a different form factor than the 6 pin
LEMO that is used by Bose.
http://www.lemo.com/pdfs/catalog/ROW/UK_English/unipole_multipole.pdf
Bose owners guide with LEMO pin definitions.
http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
The Bose (LEMO) panel jacks are available at Aircraft Spruce
#11-01846
Aircraft Panel Installation Kit
$31.00
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin top - redux |
I didn't sand the aft section at all, except maybe a cursory swipe with 80G
to get the big chunks off.
The forward part between the doors took a bit of grinding to get it smooth,
maybe 10 gauge wire by your scale. Then, a piece of flat lexan went over
that area and was subsequently covered with headliner material. That
covered up a lot of unevenness.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top - redux
Group... I know this has been beaten to death but have a specific question
that I can't find an answer to in searching the list.
Assuming using headliner similar to what Flightline Interiors or Cleaveland
sell.... how smooth does the inside of the top need to be. Does the
headliner cover any blemishes?
To provide a measuring stick... what gauge wire could you run under the
headliner and it now show? That'll give me some idea as to when to cry
uncle on the sanding.
Thanks in advance.
btw ... Hope to see some of ya at Oshkosh. Plan to fly the 7A up a couple
times during the week.
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will
always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193151#193151
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N402RH Flying Update |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Way to go Rob! That's a nice looking prop and panel (and family):-)
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Here are some photo's of the RV-10 with the Hartzell composite prop:
> _http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10_
> (http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10)
> As of this morning 7.4 hours down 32.6 to go before Oshkosh, I should get
> another 3 hours on it tonight.
> Rob Hickman
> N402RH RV-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
http://www.lightspeedaviation.com/content.cfm/Knowledge-Base/FAQ
Is Zulu available in an aircraft powered version to eliminate the need for
AA batteries?
Yes. The Zulu: P is the aircraft powered version. It uses the most common
aircraft powered ANR headset plug, the 6-pin LEMO. This plug is standard on
all Cirrus and Cessna 350, and 400 series aircraft. Should you need it, the
mating half of the connector is available from many pilot supply retail
stores.
It still doesn't answer your question, but it does appear like there may be
some hope that they are compatible
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 3:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
Since I was planning to use Bose headsets in the RV-10 , I had already
decided that I would NOT install the standard RCA earphone/mic audio jacks.
Instead I plan to ONLY install the Bose (LEMO) jacks with provision for
earphone/mic audio and power for ANR. That decision is even more reinforced
now that Lightspeed is now offering their Zulu headset with the LEMO
connector. If I ever have to use a standard headset, I carry a RCA
earphone/mic audio jack to LEMO adapter.
The only thing I cannot determine is if the Lightspeed LEMO is the same as
the BOSE LEMO. I can't find any details on the Lightspeed LEMO and I found
one reference that states it is a 5 Pin LEMO where I know the Bose LEMO is a
6 pin. It would be a shame if Lightspeed used a different form factor than
the 6 pin LEMO that is used by Bose.
http://www.lemo.com/pdfs/catalog/ROW/UK_English/unipole_multipole.pdf
Bose owners guide with LEMO pin definitions.
http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
The Bose (LEMO) panel jacks are available at Aircraft Spruce
#11-01846
Aircraft Panel Installation Kit
$31.00
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
40006 will be there on Sat the 26th and leaving on the 31st. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days?
We will be flying in Thursday July 24th, and leave the following
Saturday.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Dave Saylor <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 11:25:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days?
We are arriving in N921AC Monday morning. We're staying in Wassau
Sunday
night, then making the short flight to OSH as early as possible.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days?
I'm interested for a couple of reasons in finding out who is flying
their
RV-10 into OSH this year, and what days they plan to arrive and depart.
One reason it to give Jeff a heads up for space, and the other reason is
for
a little video/photo project I may undertake.
I'm sure the list is curious as well.
Sooooooo, who's going, and when?
I'm flying in either Friday night (preferred) before the show, but
definitely by Saturday noon, and then I likely will leave either Friday
or
Saturday towards the end of the week.
I'll try to keep a tally so we have it in one email after a bunch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N402RH Flying Update |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Congrats Rob.
Minor detail question. I note your AOA is running on the 3400. Can you have it
on your Advanced units if you opt to hook it up and/or activate it?
Thanks,
Tom H.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193251#193251
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N402RH Flying Update |
In a message dated 7/16/2008 4:48:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tomhanaway(at)comcast.net writes:
Minor detail question. I note your AOA is running on the 3400. Can you
have it on your Advanced units if you opt to hook it up and/or activate it?
Yes, the AOA is in declutter mode on the pilots screens. It turns on any
time the AOA starts to increase.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdoerr(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
You may also want to compare it to the David Clark ones as well. I have the Flightcom
ANR Panel Power Headset and then use a 10 pin connector which is a pain
because they are the one one I know of that use this connector. I too am thinking
of mabe the Bose or Lightspeed and I also have the normal jack in case
someone want to use there own headset without adapters.
Ray
---- William Curtis wrote:
> Since I was planning to use Bose headsets in the RV-10 , I had already decided
that I would NOT install the standard RCA earphone/mic audio jacks. Instead
I plan to ONLY install the Bose (LEMO) jacks with provision for earphone/mic
audio and power for ANR. That decision is even more reinforced now that Lightspeed
is now offering their Zulu headset with the LEMO connector. If I ever have
to use a standard headset, I carry a RCA earphone/mic audio jack to LEMO adapter.
>
> The only thing I cannot determine is if the Lightspeed LEMO is the same as the
BOSE LEMO. I can't find any details on the Lightspeed LEMO and I found one
reference that states it is a 5 Pin LEMO where I know the Bose LEMO is a 6 pin.
It would be a shame if Lightspeed used a different form factor than the 6 pin
LEMO that is used by Bose.
>
> http://www.lemo.com/pdfs/catalog/ROW/UK_English/unipole_multipole.pdf
>
> Bose owners guide with LEMO pin definitions.
> http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
> The Bose (LEMO) panel jacks are available at Aircraft Spruce
> #11-01846
> Aircraft Panel Installation Kit
> $31.00
>
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N402RH Flying Update |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Rob those picasaweb pictures look like you have dual AFS4500, and I
mistaken thought I read you were going with dual 3500s. Should I have
Dr. Breckenridge check my glasses?
Good luck on a safe and comprehensive flyoff.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
Here are some photo's of the RV-10 with the Hartzell composite prop:
http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10
<http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10>
As of this morning 7.4 hours down 32.6 to go before Oshkosh, I should
get another 3 hours on it tonight.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
________________________________
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in
your area - Check out TourTracker.com
<http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Dave, since you are classifying your existing pilots rear side window as
Salvage, have you considered making a positive compound curve of the
opposite pane, using an IR lamp (at proper distance) and having an
assistant use a handheld temperature gun to monitor threshold
temperature as you approach flexibility? Tap Plastics can advise on the
process (which they use for forming). You should be able to recreate
the opposite force and return the distortion to a "Near" virgin state.
The experiment would be valuable to the rest of us before we all learn
of Sli-Pruf during removal.
Whose cover did you use, what cloth material and what color created this
challenge?
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern
Oregon a few days later, and when the plane got back to Watsonville, we
found the left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty
severly. Bummer.
In the picture, the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how
it should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the
fuselage, but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think
the cover may have helped trap the heat, but I don't have any proof.
The factory seems to think it would have been worse without it. They
talked about a polished RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has
been outside for almost a year now in some pretty hot, sunny climates
without any issues, until the cover went on.
As a bit of trivia, I just checked and found that the upper wing surface
aft of the spar is slightly concave, unlike an RV-6 we have in the
hangar, which is convex. With the flaps fully retracted, the concavity
is more pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that
solar-collecting power...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N402RH Flying Update |
look like DECK's to me.. why use a 3500 when you can "test" your newest
product.
P
From: John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 6:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
Rob those picasaweb pictures look like you have dual AFS4500, and I
mistaken thought I read you were going with dual 3500s. Should I have
Dr. Breckenridge check my glasses?
Good luck on a safe and comprehensive flyoff.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
Here are some photo's of the RV-10 with the Hartzell composite prop:
http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10
As of this morning 7.4 hours down 32.6 to go before Oshkosh, I should
get another 3 hours on it tonight.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in
your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | N402RH Flying Update |
oops my mistake, you mean the right screen, I meant 4500 and not 3400
sorry!
P
From: pascal
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
look like DECK's to me.. why use a 3500 when you can "test" your newest
product.
P
From: John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 6:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
Rob those picasaweb pictures look like you have dual AFS4500, and I
mistaken thought I read you were going with dual 3500s. Should I have
Dr. Breckenridge check my glasses?
Good luck on a safe and comprehensive flyoff.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH Flying Update
Here are some photo's of the RV-10 with the Hartzell composite prop:
http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/N402RHRV10
As of this morning 7.4 hours down 32.6 to go before Oshkosh, I should
get another 3 hours on it tonight.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in
your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin top - redux |
Ask Abby at Flightline. She says very little finishing necessary.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 1:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top - redux
>
> Group... I know this has been beaten to death but have a specific question
> that I can't find an answer to in searching the list.
>
> Assuming using headliner similar to what Flightline Interiors or
> Cleaveland sell.... how smooth does the inside of the top need to be.
> Does the headliner cover any blemishes?
>
> To provide a measuring stick... what gauge wire could you run under the
> headliner and it now show? That'll give me some idea as to when to cry
> uncle on the sanding.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> btw ... Hope to see some of ya at Oshkosh. Plan to fly the 7A up a couple
> times during the week.
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will
> always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193151#193151
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Issued Letter On The 51% Rule |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
If I interpret it correctly, it looks like the FAA is proposing to go to a 20%
rule - where the manufacturer and assembly shop do 80% and the builder does a
minimum of 20%. The intent seems to be that the builder is then minimally capable
of doing maintenance with their repairman certificate.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193366#193366
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin top - redux |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Abbey has a bunch of different fabrics that cover up a lot of sins. If you insert
a piece of thin plastic like the trim taken off the wing tips you could probably
conceal it completely. My only big suggestion is to install the fabric with
the cabin top off the plane and upside down. (After you install the windows).
Makes the job much much easier.
Last year at OSH I saw two guys from Iowa who installed the WalMart/Costco LED
(battery powered) lights in the plane for interior lighting. Looked and works
great. Cheap and you cannot run down the battery in the plane.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193367#193367
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I would reinforce the decision to also put in the RCA jacks as a back up.
Kinda like a backup set of steam guages......
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193369#193369
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Issued Letter On The 51% Rule |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
What is pinching your fingers with the pneumatic squeezer considered? How about
two at the same time? [Crying or Very sad]
Lenny,
#40803 baggage area
--------
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Rudder almost done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193376#193376
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
John,
Sounds like a hoot! But I want to get this done before OSH so I'll probably
just replace it.
The cover is the thin, light grey cover, purchased from Vans. I think it
may be from Avery.
Thinking this through and discussing it at length, I see two options: paint
the wings, or put some kind of insulation inside the cover. Neither one
thrills me.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 7:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Dave, since you are classifying your existing pilots rear side window as
Salvage, have you considered making a positive compound curve of the
opposite pane, using an IR lamp (at proper distance) and having an assistant
use a handheld temperature gun to monitor threshold temperature as you
approach flexibility? Tap Plastics can advise on the process (which they
use for forming). You should be able to recreate the opposite force and
return the distortion to a "Near" virgin state.
The experiment would be valuable to the rest of us before we all learn of
Sli-Pruf during removal.
Whose cover did you use, what cloth material and what color created this
challenge?
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern Oregon
a few days later, and when the plane got back to Watsonville, we found the
left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty severly. Bummer.
In the picture, the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how it
should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the fuselage,
but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think the cover may
have helped trap the heat, but I don't have any proof. The factory seems to
think it would have been worse without it. They talked about a polished
RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has been outside for almost a
year now in some pretty hot, sunny climates without any issues, until the
cover went on.
As a bit of trivia, I just checked and found that the upper wing surface aft
of the spar is slightly concave, unlike an RV-6 we have in the hangar, which
is convex. With the flaps fully retracted, the concavity is more
pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that solar-collecting power...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Here is what I will be using for a cover. These are really high quality and
I have had one for my sailplane for years.
http://www.jaxida.dk/welcome.htm
John G.
From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-L
ist: Window TroubleDate: Thu=2C 17 Jul 2008 10:27:01 -0700
John=2C
Sounds like a hoot! But I want to get this done before OSH so I'll probabl
y just replace it.
The cover is the thin=2C light grey cover=2C purchased from Vans. I think
it may be from Avery.
Thinking this through and discussing it at length=2C I see two options: pa
int the wings=2C or put some kind of insulation inside the cover. Neither
one thrills me.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John CoxSent: Wednesday=2C July 16=2C 2008 7:06
PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Dave=2C since you are classifying your existing pilots rear side window as
Salvage=2C have you considered making a positive compound curve of the oppo
site pane=2C using an IR lamp (at proper distance) and having an assistant
use a handheld temperature gun to monitor threshold temperature as you appr
oach flexibility? Tap Plastics can advise on the process (which they use f
or forming). You should be able to recreate the opposite force and return
the distortion to a "Near" virgin state.
The experiment would be valuable to the rest of us before we all learn of S
li-Pruf during removal.
Whose cover did you use=2C what cloth material and what color created this
challenge?
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave SaylorSent: Wednesday=2C July 16=2C 2008 10
:00 AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern Orego
n a few days later=2C and when the plane got back to Watsonville=2C we foun
d the left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty severly. Bu
mmer.
In the picture=2C the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how it
should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the fuselage
=2C but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think the cover
may have helped trap the heat=2C but I don't have any proof. The factory
seems to think it would have been worse without it. They talked about a po
lished RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has been outside for alm
ost a year now in some pretty hot=2C sunny climates without any issues=2C u
ntil the cover went on.
As a bit of trivia=2C I just checked and found that the upper wing surface
aft of the spar is slightly concave=2C unlike an RV-6 we have in the hangar
=2C which is convex. With the flaps fully retracted=2C the concavity is mo
re pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that solar-collecting power
...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Issued Letter On The 51% Rule |
>>There is also the piece of those extras we customize for our planes, the
air vents, access panels ...<<
All those extras count! There are lots of extra spaces in each section of
the tally sheet. If your work isn't on the list, you can add it and take
credit.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Experimental AB Policy |
_____
From: Earl Lawrence [mailto:elawrence(at)eaa.org]
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 2:45 PM
mikael.via(at)glasairaviation.com; Jeremy Monnett; dave(at)aircraftersllc.com
Cc: Joe Norris
Subject: Experimental AB Policy
All
Just to keep you all up to date on EAA direction I wanted to let you all
know that EAA will be opposing the 20% fabrication requirement in favor of a
simple majority portion of the tasks. EAA believes that there is just too
much debate and opinion as to what is fabrication and what is assembly, what
is the definition of the two etc. for builders to wade through all of this.
The sound bite is "A task is a task is a task."
There are many little issues that we will comment on but this is the only
big issue we are taking on at this point.
We do not want the discussion with the FAA to turn into a political battle
but rather focus on the fact that the rule does not call for a fixed number
of fabrication or assembly tasks it just calls for a major portion.
Keep in mind we are still developing our position but I though you would all
want to know that was the direction EAA is heading at this point.
Earl
Earl Lawrence EAA #265455
VP Industry and Regulatory Affairs
EAA-The Spirit of Aviation
(920) 426 6537
(920) 379 8510 cell
elawrence(at)eaa.org
www.eaa.org
See you at EAA AirVenture Oshkosh-July 28 - August 3, 2008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solid-state electrical system preso at OSH |
| From: | "Marc Ausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
I will be presenting "Benefits of a modern, solid state electrical
system" on Monday, July 28 at 1:00 in forum 8 NATCA Pavilion at Oshkosh.
The presentation will discuss the reasoning and benefits of switching
from mechanical breakers and switches to solid-state technology. While I
will be talking a bit about the Vertical Power products, the
presentation is really aimed at discussing trends in the marketplace,
how the new technology is implemented (and balanced with tried and true
methods), and what to expect from this technology.
You can come by our booth in Hangar B for a demo and a free t-shirt!
Marc Ausman
Vertical Power, Inc.
317 Commercial St, Suite G-102
Albuquerque, NM 87102
(505) 715-6172
marc(at)VerticalPower.com
http://www.verticalpower.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Issued Letter On The 51% Rule |
Not sure if this has been posted, but here's the link to the actual
draft documents and it tells you who to send comments to if you have
recommendations/corrections/comments. If you look at the checklist, I'm
not sure how you get 187 points when some of the things like "wing
struts" don't apply.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/draft_docs/display_docs/index.cfm?Doc_Type=Pubs
Dave Saylor wrote:
> >>There is also the piece of those extras we customize for our planes,
> the air vents, access panels ...<<
>
> All those extras count! There are lots of extra spaces in each
> section of the tally sheet. If your work isn't on the list, you can
> add it and take credit.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Well I guess like all things "it depends!" To use your analogy, If you are a VFR
pilot and only fly VFR, the need for steam gauge backup is kind of redundant
as looking out the window should be your backup. Same thing with jacks, are
you worried about the jacks failing or that you may bring the wrong headsets?
All the same signals are in the LEMO jacks, only in a different form factor. I'm
looking at a source for the male LEMO jacks and will make a few female RCA
to male LEMO adapters. Should be able to put these together for a LOT less than
the $100-$135 that Bose is asking--stay tuned. But then thier adapter includes
a battery case for power. If you just want to get RCA signal to LEMO signal,
its just wires.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I would reinforce the decision to also put in the RCA jacks as a back up.
> Kinda like a backup set of steam guages......
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193369#193369
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
William I think that's the kicker, you need a power supply if your using the headset
on standard RCA jacks. It is soooo nice just plugging in the panel powered
Bose headsets with that LEMO jack.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 1:47:07 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: re: RV10-List: Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
Well I guess like all things "it depends!" To use your analogy, If you are a VFR
pilot and only fly VFR, the need for steam gauge backup is kind of redundant
as looking out the window should be your backup. Same thing with jacks, are
you worried about the jacks failing or that you may bring the wrong headsets?
All the same signals are in the LEMO jacks, only in a different form factor. I'm
looking at a source for the male LEMO jacks and will make a few female RCA
to male LEMO adapters. Should be able to put these together for a LOT less than
the $100-$135 that Bose is asking--stay tuned. But then thier adapter includes
a battery case for power. If you just want to get RCA signal to LEMO signal,
its just wires.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I would reinforce the decision to also put in the RCA jacks as a back up.
> Kinda like a backup set of steam guages......
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193369#193369
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
I installed the Bose (Lemo) connectors and fell into a trap with all the bl
ack wires. From memory:- there are four or more-pairs emitting from the
connector and each pair has a black wire. These are not common. You must u
se a meter and identify each wire.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Thu, 7/17/08, Rick Sked wrote:
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 2:19 PM
William I think that's the kicker, you need a power supply if your using
the headset on standard RCA jacks. It is soooo nice just plugging in the pa
nel
powered Bose headsets with that LEMO jack.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 1:47:07 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: re: RV10-List: Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
Well I guess like all things "it depends!" To use your analogy, If
you are a VFR pilot and only fly VFR, the need for steam gauge backup is ki
nd
of redundant as looking out the window should be your backup. Same thing w
ith
jacks, are you worried about the jacks failing or that you may bring the wr
ong
headsets?
All the same signals are in the LEMO jacks, only in a different form factor
.
I'm looking at a source for the male LEMO jacks and will make a few female
RCA to male LEMO adapters. Should be able to put these together for a LOT
less
than the $100-$135 that Bose is asking--stay tuned. But then thier adapter
includes a battery case for power. If you just want to get RCA signal to L
EMO
signal, its just wires.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I would reinforce the decision to also put in the RCA jacks as a back up.
> Kinda like a backup set of steam guages......
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193369#193369
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I will call your cell Friday night. Currently in AR and MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
N104CD is airborne! 9000ft, 177kts ground speed
LUM to OSH
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193592#193592
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Just to clarify, since I will only have the LEMO jacks, I would only need the
RCA (female) to LEMO (male) adapter if I wanted to use a headset with regular
RCA plugs-this requires no power.
If I want to use the Bose headsets with LEMO jacks in another aircraft without
LEMO jacks, there are two options;
1) You can easily make an adapter by purchasing the $30 installation kit from
spruce, adding RCA plugs and wire the power leads into a cigarette lighter adapter
or battery pack.
2) You can purchase the Bose LEMO to RCA adapter with battery pack for about $100-$135.
Installing only the LIMO jacks actually simplifies wiring. I've seen folks totally
mess up their intercom wiring and introduce ground loops when tying the RCA
jacks to the LEMO in the panel.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> William I think that's the kicker, you need a power supply if your using the
headset on standard RCA jacks. It is soooo nice just plugging in the panel powered
Bose headsets with that LEMO jack.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 1:47:07 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: re: RV10-List: Re: BOSE (LEMO) headset jack in panel
>
>
> Well I guess like all things "it depends!" To use your analogy, If you are a
VFR pilot and only fly VFR, the need for steam gauge backup is kind of redundant
as looking out the window should be your backup. Same thing with jacks, are
you worried about the jacks failing or that you may bring the wrong headsets?
>
> All the same signals are in the LEMO jacks, only in a different form factor.
I'm looking at a source for the male LEMO jacks and will make a few female RCA
to male LEMO adapters. Should be able to put these together for a LOT less
than the $100-$135 that Bose is asking--stay tuned. But then thier adapter includes
a battery case for power. If you just want to get RCA signal to LEMO signal,
its just wires.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> >
> > I would reinforce the decision to also put in the RCA jacks as a back up.
> > Kinda like a backup set of steam guages......
> >
> > --------
> > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193369#193369
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
N104CD is on the ground. Camp sites for the RV-10 HQ are being reserved at this
time.
Is the Air Venture anticipation growing yet [Question] :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193610#193610
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
All we need is real time satellite photos to see Tim roaming Camp Scholler.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 11:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days?
N104CD is on the ground. Camp sites for the RV-10 HQ are being reserved at
this time.
Is the Air Venture anticipation growing yet [Question] :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193610#193610
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote:
> All we need is real time satellite photos to see Tim roaming Camp Scholler.
>
> --
We have the next best thing for todays technology. The Internet.
Return Flight plan has been filed. 11:10 ETD with an estimated arrival of 12:19.
flightaware does come in hand from time to time. [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193621#193621
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans 540 sales with free shipping - extra charges resolved |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I have had all my 'kits' shipped 'Customer Pickup' at the shippers dock.
That way there are no extra fees and I don't have to worry about being somewhere
at a specific time. They load the crates on the trailer and I am off to the
hanger. Parts of my fuselage and finishing kits (ordered and shipped at the
same time) stayed on the trailer for over a month. I just knocked the crates
apart and inventoried them right there.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193632#193632
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
REAL TIME UPDATE:
Tim is still on the ground at OSH and won't be leaving for a little
while. As usual there's a computer problem at the registration desk so
he has to wait until that is straightened out. Andrea just got there
with their camper and they're going to grab lunch.
Early feedback is that there are more people there earlier than last
year. There weren't any sites east of the trees and only 3 on the west
side of the trees. Other 7 early sites are across the isle.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 10:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days?
rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote:
> All we need is real time satellite photos to see Tim roaming Camp
Scholler.
>
> --
We have the next best thing for todays technology. The Internet.
Return Flight plan has been filed. 11:10 ETD with an estimated arrival
of 12:19. flightaware does come in hand from time to time. [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193621#193621
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II on EBay |
| From: | "Geico266" <Geico266(at)AOL.COM> |
Only 1 1/2 days left for bidding. E-mail any questions. I can deliver to OSH.
Thanks Bob C.!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193714#193714
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Hey guys I never got the counter sink, is it still available??
Thane
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
>
> Hey Eric(5) and Thane(6),
>
> How about emailing me your email address so I can keep you posted, confirm
> address, etc. We're still waiting for the seatbelts, so I may send the
> countersink on to those who already have theirs, then get it back at the
> end of the line. This "traveling tool" thing works so fast, we weren't
> ready for it so soon!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172365#172365
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Removing Pro-Seal? |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
What's the best method or solvent for loosening up some well-cured
Pro-Seal? Got a balky fuel tank sensor and need to remove it for
inspection.
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
"It is the mark of an instructed mind to rest satisfied with the degree
of precision which the nature of a subject admits, and not to seek
exactness when only an approximation of the truth is possible."
-- Aristotle (330 B.C.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Pro-Seal? |
Use a serrated plastic knife.
Rob.
On Jul 18, 2008, at 10:22 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> What=92s the best method or solvent for loosening up some well-cured
> Pro-Seal? Got a balky fuel tank sensor and need to remove it for
> inspection.
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> 40025
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> "It is the mark of an instructed mind to rest satisfied with the
> degree of precision which the nature of a subject admits, and not to
> seek exactness when only an approximation of the truth is possible."
> -- Aristotle (330 B.C.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Thane,
I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in contacting Eric
Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case there is a problem with the
email, I have found a phone number and I will try to call him today. Maybe
at OSH? If anyone has contact with him, let me know.
By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the countersink
- so that I can eventually get it back to you.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure |
I-landed approximately a dozen times on a long, grass strip in the Idaho
wilderness and found the AN4-6 bolt shown on page 46-5 figure 2 sheared at
the cotter pin. This is the AN4 that pokes out of the large axel nut to hol
d the fairing standoff. The port side failed but the starboard MLG fairing
could-be wiggled and would soon fail.
-
The strip is pocked with small mounds much like a polo field before the div
its are replaced. There were no holes, nor did I hit anything, nor did I la
nd hard. The fiberglass fairing is still pristine. What caused the problem
is the-fairing jiggling up and down during the roll out.
-
Tearing the landing gear down for inspection revealed that the current desi
gn will not work over time. I believe the failure begins at the 3 U-1008 sp
acers shown on page 46-4 figure 4. When the-fairing bounces about-these
spacers gall the U-1010L plate and loosen the inboard side of the fairing.
Once the inboard side of the fairing begins to move around it has a 5 inch
lever arm (U-1004B) from the outboard-fairing attachment point that work
s the AN4 bolt and will shear it at the cotter pin hole. Looking at the she
ared bolt endwise the structural area is very small after the cotter hole i
s drilled and the thread depths are subtracted.
-
Two items need to be redesigned. The-three bolts thru U-1010L cannot be t
ightened because the tension simply crushes the aluminum spacers. The space
rs need to be steel and the joint tightened. I don't have a lathe but do ha
ve lots of 4130 tubing .5" OD by .375 ID. I cleaned-the inside of the tub
e with a .375" ream and pressed the aluminum spacer inside. Added a washer
between the spacer and the U-1010L and tightened it properly. Now it is muc
h stiffer.
-
Beefing up the AN4 at the axel nut required much more work. If you only hav
e a hammer then you use a hammer to fix all problems. I created a weldment
with a-TIG welder but a lathe is the better tool. I used the same steel .
5"OD by .375"ID tubing and constructed a standoff with an AN5 stud on one e
nd and an AN4 nut on the other. Drilled out the axel nut for the AN5 and pl
aced the AN5 nut on the inside of the axel nut. Make sure you have clearanc
e when the big cotter pin is inserted thru the axel nut. I am sure there ar
e many more clever approaches but this will work.
-
BTW there were several flight test engineers-at our camp that encouraged
me to fly home from Idaho with one MLG fairing on and the other off. This w
ould be more convenient as my RV-10 was stuffed full of camping equipment a
nd there was no room for another MLG fairing. I duct taped the leg fairings
in place and took off. They were right. At cruise the cost was 8 mph and 1
/4 bubble of rudder. No handling difference.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
-
-
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seats Shoulder Harness |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm getting ready to join the tail to the fuselage and noticed that the Fuselage
kit included the shoulder harness cables but the install must happen on the
Finish Kit, which I don't have. Should I install them in the tail now and leave
them coiled up to save a dive down the tail later when it's harder? If so, what
are the bolt callouts.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193823#193823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Seats Shoulder Harness |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Fine to install now - I taught a small local neighbor kid to use a torque wrench,
let him practice a couple of times and then climb back to do mine.
Install of the cable to the longeron is with an AN4-7A, AN960-416 and an AN365-428.
Bolt is installed with the head on the top side.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Headed to OSH in the AM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193824#193824
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Seats Shoulder Harness |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks, Bob, I wish I could be there this year. Next year for sure! Enjoy the mosquitoes....
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193828#193828
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Save the postage, Lew - let it circulate until it's worn out!
John Ackerman
On Jul 19, 2008, at 5:53 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Thane,
>
> I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in
> contacting Eric Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case
> there is a problem with the email, I have found a phone number and I
> will try to call him today. Maybe at OSH? If anyone has contact
> with him, let me know.
>
> By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the
> countersink - so that I can eventually get it back to you.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 list billet handle auction |
hey guys,
don't forget there's a set of billet handles up for auction.
current bid 200$.
closes sunday night.
All proceeds to benefit RV10 HQ slush fund
steve
iflyrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
Buck those rivets. An easy way is to use your back rivet plate. Hold the
rod such that the rivet is vertical, machined head up and rivet end (what
will be the manufactured head) on the back rivet plate.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if they
were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans are either
too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size. Rivet cutters
are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
Carl
Now that makes sense! I'll give it a go and see what happens.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: July-19-08 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Buck those rivets. An easy way is to use your back rivet plate. Hold the
rod such that the rivet is vertical, machined head up and rivet end (what
will be the manufactured head) on the back rivet plate.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 list billet handle auction |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
$210.00 and my second offer.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
DiNieri
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 4:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 list billet handle auction
hey guys,
don't forget there's a set of billet handles up for auction.
current bid 200$.
closes sunday night.
All proceeds to benefit RV10 HQ slush fund
steve
iflyrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to size the grip
measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job. I will send
you one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt, fastener or rivet is
incorrect on the company plans. By the time you are out of parts, you
will be able to read the correct length and make certain they comply
with the guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is any good, he might
point out the error of the lengths during the paperwork review (oh yeh,
Canadians don't use DARs). Boy is Rob's new prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird ready for the
flight next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on Thursday) then
West Bend, WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big one (on Sunday).
Bringing a few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob, Mike and the stakeout
gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV Central at OSH.
There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if
they were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans
are either too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size.
Rivet cutters are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I
hit something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod
ends for wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error
(duh!), I made another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from
Van's. This time when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets
seemed to slump to one side. How does one squeeze these rivets without
slumping? Part of the problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying
to squeeze - the -11 rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic
squeezer jaws so I have to work at getting them to come down. I also
wonder if the hollow tube affects how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 list billet handle auction |
I'll bid $250 since Steve reminded me that they'll accept a lock.
Bruce Snyder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 list billet handle auction
hey guys,
don't forget there's a set of billet handles up for auction.
current bid 200$.
closes sunday night.
All proceeds to benefit RV10 HQ slush fund
steve
iflyrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Bracket Mod? |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
While removing the tail this morning to do the SB and some wiring, I became frustrated
at how difficult it was to disconnect the trim cables from the trim mount.
It seems to me that if the bracket that all of the trim mechanism is mounted
to were mounted on top of the 'deck' rather than the bottom, removing the
entire horizontal stabilizer and elevators as an assembly would be much simpler.
So after looking at a few options, I am thinking about mounting the trim
mechanism above the deck instead of underneath. I can't see any reason this wouldn't
work. Am I missing something?
The good news is, the easier it is to remove the tail, the less chance there is
we will ever need to remove it, that's the law isn't it Mr. Murphy?
Thanks, Jason Kreidler #40617 - N44YH - Finishing
(4-Partner Build Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, & Wayne Elsner)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193866#193866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
John
Rivets have been telling me things for a long time. Usually something along
the lines of "why are you building an a/c?". Actually, I think that a
squeezer was the wrong tool for the job. I like the back rivet option
suggested by Carl. I am going to try it out tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: July-19-08 6:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if they
were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans are either
too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size. Rivet cutters
are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
John
I'll see you at Whitman.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: July-19-08 7:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to size the grip
measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job. I will send you
one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt, fastener or rivet is
incorrect on the company plans. By the time you are out of parts, you will
be able to read the correct length and make certain they comply with the
guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is any good, he might point out the
error of the lengths during the paperwork review (oh yeh, Canadians don't
use DARs). Boy is Rob's new prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird ready for the flight
next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on Thursday) then West Bend,
WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big one (on Sunday). Bringing a
few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob, Mike and the stakeout gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV Central at OSH.
There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if they
were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans are either
too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size. Rivet cutters
are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends for
wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I made
another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's. This time
when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one
side. How does one squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the
problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11
rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to
work at getting them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects
how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
If we ever find out where it is, Put me on the list.- Seems like each per
son shouldn't have it long.- Thanks, Don McDonald- #40636 finishing-
-- 11460 Elks Circle, Rancho Cordova, Ca.- 95742.
--- On Sat, 7/19/08, John Ackerman wrote:
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 3:57 PM
Save the postage, Lew - let it circulate until it's worn out!
John Ackerman
On Jul 19, 2008, at 5:53 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Thane,
>
> I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in
> contacting Eric Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case
> there is a problem with the email, I have found a phone number and I
> will try to call him today. Maybe at OSH? If anyone has contact
> with him, let me know.
>
> By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the
> countersink - so that I can eventually get it back to you.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
>
>
============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with
the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise
and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well.
Squeezer didn't. I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does
not support the rivet shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 12:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
John
I'll see you at Whitman.
Cheers
Les
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: July-19-08 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to size the grip
measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job. I will send
you one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt, fastener or rivet
is incorrect on the company plans. By the time you are out of parts,
you will be able to read the correct length and make certain they comply
with the guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is any good, he might
point out the error of the lengths during the paperwork review (oh yeh,
Canadians don't use DARs). Boy is Rob's new prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird ready for the
flight next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on Thursday) then
West Bend, WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big one (on Sunday).
Bringing a few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob, Mike and the
stakeout gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV Central at
OSH. There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if
they were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans
are either too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size.
Rivet cutters are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends
for wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I
made another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's.
This time when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed
to slump to one side. How does one squeeze these rivets without
slumping? Part of the problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying
to squeeze - the -11 rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic
squeezer jaws so I have to work at getting them to come down. I also
wonder if the hollow tube affects how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
Dave
I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem. Misery
loves company as the saying goes.
Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts tomorrow,
I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on so others can
learn from my mistakes.
* Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
* When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down the
exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center will cause
problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly off center, the rivet
head will conform to the radius of the tube and you will then be riveting
off center.
* Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the rod
end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off center (elongated)
if not drilled exactly down the centerline. (Dos anyone have any ideas why
Van's calls for pilots first and then final drilling through the rod ends?
It seems like this makes the whole process a bit riskier).
* I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively difficult.
What I did on my "test" pieces was:
* install the first rod end (which was very tight)
* drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
* drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
* cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the exterior holes
* back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
* repeated for the next hole
* primed the interior of the tube
* Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
* Deburred and riveted
* I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes but
they were just too tight to get off without damaging the assembly. Anyway, I
can't see how the interior burrs and chips would be a factor (is this a
reasonable assumption?).
Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of very
light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be adding to your
scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my ability.
In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square would
be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my problem as
parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a tube.
Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while before I
get my replacement parts.
BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - happily turning parts into scrap
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: July-20-08 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with the
rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise and used
my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well. Squeezer didn't.
I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does not support the rivet
shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
One comment, always drill round tubes and such with a drill press and a tube
holder. I made a tube holder out of a piece of 2"x6", making two 45 degree
cuts to make a 'V' using a radial arm saw. The tube sits in the 'V'. I
added a couple of bolts to hold the jig onto the drill press so that the
drill bit was in the exact center of the 'V'. You can buy an aluminum one
from Harbor freight cheap enough as well.
Be careful not to put too much pressure on the drill bit or it will wander
off center.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Dave
I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem. Misery
loves company as the saying goes.
Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts tomorrow,
I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on so others can
learn from my mistakes.
* Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
* When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down the
exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center will cause
problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly off center, the rivet
head will conform to the radius of the tube and you will then be riveting
off center.
* Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the rod
end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off center (elongated)
if not drilled exactly down the centerline. (Dos anyone have any ideas why
Van's calls for pilots first and then final drilling through the rod ends?
It seems like this makes the whole process a bit riskier).
* I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively difficult.
What I did on my "test" pieces was:
* install the first rod end (which was very tight)
* drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
* drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
* cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the exterior holes
* back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
* repeated for the next hole
* primed the interior of the tube
* Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
* Deburred and riveted
* I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes but
they were just too tight to get off without damaging the assembly. Anyway, I
can't see how the interior burrs and chips would be a factor (is this a
reasonable assumption?).
Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of very
light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be adding to your
scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my ability.
In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square would
be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my problem as
parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a tube.
Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while before I
get my replacement parts.
BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - happily turning parts into scrap
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: July-20-08 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with the
rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise and used
my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well. Squeezer didn't.
I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does not support the rivet
shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Before you do that, add me to the end of the list, I am coming up on the
canopy and can use it now
Whoever is last let me know who that is and I'll send my information
off-list.
Thanks Lew and John.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
>
> Hey Thane,
>
> I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in
> contacting Eric Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case there is
> a problem with the email, I have found a phone number and I will try to
> call him today. Maybe at OSH? If anyone has contact with him, let me
> know.
>
> By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the
> countersink - so that I can eventually get it back to you.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
I'll second the comment on using a drill press and tube holder. I
didn't clamp it down (which would be best) but it easily allows a
squarely drilled hole to be made.
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> One comment, always drill round tubes and such with a drill press and
> a tube holder. I made a tube holder out of a piece of 2"x6", making
> two 45 degree cuts to make a 'V' using a radial arm saw. The tube
> sits in the 'V'. I added a couple of bolts to hold the jig onto the
> drill press so that the drill bit was in the exact center of the 'V'.
> You can buy an aluminum one from Harbor freight cheap enough as well.
>
>
>
> Be careful not to put too much pressure on the drill bit or it will
> wander off center.
>
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (450 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (fuselage)
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Les Kearney
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 20, 2008 1:17 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem.
> Misery loves company as the saying goes.
>
>
>
> Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts
> tomorrow, I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on
> so others can learn from my mistakes.
>
>
>
> * Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
> * When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down
> the exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center
> will cause problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly
> off center, the rivet head will conform to the radius of the
> tube and you will then be riveting off center.
> * Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the
> rod end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off
> center (elongated) if not drilled exactly down the centerline.
> (Dos anyone have any ideas why Van's calls for pilots first and
> then final drilling through the rod ends? It seems like this
> makes the whole process a bit riskier).
> * I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively
> difficult. What I did on my "test" pieces was:
> o install the first rod end (which was very tight)
> o drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
> o drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
> o cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the
> exterior holes
> o back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
> o repeated for the next hole
> o primed the interior of the tube
> o Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
> o Deburred and riveted
>
>
>
> * I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes
> but they were just too tight to get off without damaging the
> assembly. Anyway, I can't see how the interior burrs and chips
> would be a factor (is this a reasonable assumption?).
>
>
>
> Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of
> very light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be
> adding to your scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my
> ability.
>
>
>
> In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square
> would be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my
> problem as parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a
> tube.
>
>
>
> Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while
> before I get my replacement parts.
>
>
>
> BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 -- happily turning parts into scrap
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Leikam
> *Sent:* July-20-08 8:15 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
>
>
>
> I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with
> the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench
> vise and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked
> well. Squeezer didn't. I think the problem /is/ that the rod is
> hollow and does not support the rivet shank inside.
>
>
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I am making the rear seats for my QB fuse. Half the hinges were
fabricated and installed on the floors. Are the matching halves in the
kit somewhere or do I make them from supplied hinge stock? (Can't find
matching halves.)
Anyone? Anyone?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
A little late on this thread, but for those who are yet to get to making
the pushrods - I used a similar back riveting technique. But I placed
the universal rivet set in a vice, placed the manufactured head into the
cup of the set, and then used the backrivet set to shoot the shop head.
A bit tricky for one person, but it can be done without too much hassle.
A squeezer simply would not work for me with these rivets either.
cheers,
Ron
187, paint prep
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, 20 July 2008 11:45 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the
rod with the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my
bench vise and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked
well. Squeezer didn't. I think the problem is that the rod is hollow
and does not support the rivet shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 12:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
John
I'll see you at Whitman...
Cheers
Les
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: July-19-08 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to
size the grip measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job.
I will send you one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt,
fastener or rivet is incorrect on the company plans. By the time you
are out of parts, you will be able to read the correct length and make
certain they comply with the guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is
any good, he might point out the error of the lengths during the
paperwork review (oh yeh, Canadians don't use DARs). Boy is Rob's new
prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird
ready for the flight next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on
Thursday) then West Bend, WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big
one (on Sunday). Bringing a few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob,
Mike and the stakeout gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV
Central at OSH. There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC
would wonder if they were too long to begin with. Many rivets called
out in the plans are either too short or too long. Up to us to
determine proper size. Rivet cutters are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10
construction, I hit something that causes me no end of grief. This time
it is the rod ends for wings. After trashing one set due to a
measurement error (duh!), I made another perfect set after getting
replacement tubes from Van's. This time when riveting with the
AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one side. How does one
squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the problem may be the
size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11 rivets are just a
bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to work at getting
them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects how the
rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve;
I'll increase my bid to $300
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
> steve
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Steve;
>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> To start I bid $200
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey guys,
>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>> without
>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
>>> of
>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>> toward
>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
>>> pay
>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>> camping
>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>> and
>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>> "its
>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>
>>> Steve dinieri
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve,
I'll bump it up to $320.
Bruce Snyder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Steve;
I'll increase my bid to $300
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
> steve
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Steve;
>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> To start I bid $200
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey guys,
>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>> without
>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
>>> of
>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>> toward
>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
>>> pay
>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>> camping
>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>> and
>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>> "its
>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>
>>> Steve dinieri
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
let's make this fun! since it is for a good cause!
$340
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>
> Steve,
>
> I'll bump it up to $320.
>
> Bruce Snyder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>
> Steve;
> I'll increase my bid to $300
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
>> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
>> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
>> steve
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>>
>>> Steve;
>>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share
>>> of
>
>>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> To start I bid $200
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey guys,
>>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>>> without
>>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a
>>>> lot
>
>>>> of
>>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>>> toward
>>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try
>>>> to
>
>>>> pay
>>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>>> camping
>>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>>> and
>>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>>> "its
>>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>>
>>>> Steve dinieri
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
| From: | "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> |
Steve,
I'll bid $350.
Bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194035#194035
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
great, thanks all
if there's no major objections, lets run this out until tomorrow night 9
pm. we're on a roll . Bruce was the winner at 9 tonight, but I'll agree to
sell him a set at his auction price so we can continue till tomrrow and
round up a few more bucks for the HQ.
steve
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> let's make this fun! since it is for a good cause!
> $340
>
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:45 PM
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>>
>> Steve,
>>
>> I'll bump it up to $320.
>>
>> Bruce Snyder
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
>> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>
>> Steve;
>> I'll increase my bid to $300
>> Thanks!
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till,
>>> say,
>>> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
>>> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
>>> steve
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Steve;
>>>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share
>>>> of
>>
>>>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>>>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> To start I bid $200
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>>>> To:
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hey guys,
>>>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>>>> without
>>>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a
>>>>> lot
>>
>>>>> of
>>>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>>>> toward
>>>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try
>>>>> to
>>
>>>>> pay
>>>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>>>> camping
>>>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>>>> and
>>>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>>>> "its
>>>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Steve dinieri
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 HQ Group 2 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Gary and I are on site for the duration and have "tentatively" staked out group
2. We are a contiguous block 2 rows west of Group 1 at 55th and Lindbergh in
Camp Scholler. There were sites closer however there was heavy rain last night
and a lot of standing water/mud/etc. Gary (he got here first) wisely chose
the high ground! I will post more later, but a few notes of interest:
- Crowd actually appears down a bit from last year. Gary and I commandeered 3
wood picnic tables for use in the HQ area. This would have been unheard of in
prior years. We also have a couple of smaller, regular tables for use.
- mosquitoes are BAD in the late evening. Bring your bug spray and be prepared
to do battle. Brenda had a citronella candle that may have been effective.
- WiFi is not yet functional. There is good RF signal strength and I can "see"
at least a half dozen access points however no actual Internet connection results
yet.
- We have Gary's motor home oriented to provide shade for afternoon gatherings.
Additionally, we have 2 10x10 canopies that we'll set up over the tables tomorrow.
- Susan acquired an industrial coffee maker at a garage sale and brought it along.
Assuming it works, we'll have coffee in the AM for those that don't want
to make the walk over to the camp store!
I will send pictures and GPS coordinates tomorrow.
Bob (and Susan, Gary, and Brenda)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194051#194051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
I noticed that some RV10 use a higher GW than Vans. What are the pros/cons.
thanks. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194055#194055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video |
For anyone who is into radio controlled, this is a pretty cool video of
the B-29 with the X-1.
http://users.skynet.be/fa926657/files/B29.wmv
This aircraft runs on four chain saw motors. You can just imagine how
much time, effort, skill and money these guys have put into this thing.
Made me think of us builders with our RV-10, not that anyone has
mentioned putting a chain saw engine in their planes .. yet .. but the
time, skill, effort and money does indeed apply to us.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Bracket Mod? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
great idea. have any pictures
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194067#194067
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Regarding weight mine is going to come in as "portly" due to a lot of extras. We
are at ~1625 before paint and partial interior. In our defense we have the OH
console, O2, Leather, dual 12V to 24V Comm voltage converters (heavy), balanced
wheel pants, double DVD players and the list keeps growing.
My question has to do with weight left to right. I placed the O2 system right of
centerline and the wing servos in the right wing expecting my generous proportions
would be PIC. But the empty weight was 20# greater on the left wheel than
the right. Any thoughts?
Robin
Travel Plans:
San Luis Obispo, LA, Chicago, Arkansas, Chicago, OSH, Kohler, Chicago, LA, San
Luis Obispo, LA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Dave,
Interesting timing. I was just looking for those hinge parts for my QB last night.
First time I haven't been able to find a part I put aside previously. Went
back to the earlier floor section and see that it's within the "slow build
only" section. I suspect it was never with the kit.
After 30 minutes of searching, I decided they didn't exist in my house and just
went ahead and cut up some existing piano hinge that came with the kit.
Works fine.
Tom H.
Boynton Beach, FL
40639
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194076#194076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Hey Tom, I live about a half an hour from you (Margate), we should meet up sometime.
Lenny
#40803 baggage door
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194117#194117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | handle auction for rv10 hq |
All, sorry for the confusion
I've been looking at the timestamp on my email software.
When compared with the matronics times, they are definitely off by a few
minutes. so it looks like bob was the winner.
I know I mentioned extending, but, if there's no objection I'd like to
crown Bob Leffler the winner and close this up.
I always like to keep things informal and easygoing, so If I may seem
disorganized sometimes its because I am ;)
Steve DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 HQ Group 2 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sites are staked out and awaiting "official" tagging which will take place in the
morning. Attached is a picture (sorry about the size) taken from 56th & Lindbergh
looking at the group 2 area to the southwest. For those wanting more
specific location: 43 deg 58.493 N, 88 deg 33.900 W.
I'll send more pictures to Tim later for him to post and save the bandwidth on
the list.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194159#194159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handle auction for rv10 hq |
How do you want the payment handled?
Check, cash, paypal? I can send something now, or hand it to you at OSH.
bob
>
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
> Date: 2008/07/21 Mon AM 11:53:45 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: handle auction for rv10 hq
>
>
> All, sorry for the confusion
> I've been looking at the timestamp on my email software.
> When compared with the matronics times, they are definitely off by a few
> minutes. so it looks like bob was the winner.
> I know I mentioned extending, but, if there's no objection I'd like to
> crown Bob Leffler the winner and close this up.
> I always like to keep things informal and easygoing, so If I may seem
> disorganized sometimes its because I am ;)
> Steve DiNieri
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reminder: Pre-OSH pool party |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
Just a reminder that my friends Jay and Mary Honeck will be hosting a
pool party at their hotel at KIOW on Saturday. Last year two RV-10s
made it along with 7-8 other RVs. Those of you coming from the West may
find it worth your while to stop by. See the invitation below...
------
To the Friends of Iowa City Airport:
Oshkosh is just nine days away, and the excitement is growing -- which
means it's almost time for our annual Fly-In Pool Party at the Alexis
Park Inn & Suites in Iowa City!
All pilots and aviation enthusiasts are invited to join us in
celebrating the start of the world's largest aviation "happening" on
Saturday, July 26th. This is the only fly-in pool party in the world (to
my knowledge), and we will be serving free:
- Burgers
- Brats
- Hot dogs
- Snacks
- Beverages
- Music
...all at poolside, starting at 3 PM.
Here's a copy of the official invitation:
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/iowa_city_pool_party.htm
Please help us get the word out by printing this and hanging it on your
airport FBO's bulletin board!
Here are some pictures from LAST year's pool party:
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/2007_fly-in_pool_party.htm
As you can see, a great time was had by all!
Then, on Sunday morning (not TOO early -- usually around 9 AM) we'll all
be flying up to Airventure in Oshkosh, WI. If you'd like to join us, we
fly in a loose "gaggle" (no Blue Angels stuff -- just keep each other in
sight) through the FISK approach into OSH. It's a great way to learn
the approach from a very experienced group -- and we all end up being
parked fairly close together, so the fun can continue throughout the
week!
Hope to see you at the party!
--
Jay & Mary
Jay Honeck
Friends of Iowa City Airport
AOPA Airport Support Network Volunteer
Owner/Innkeeper
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handle auction for rv10 hq |
Bob,
the easiest would be to send it directly to Bob Condrey
(bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com) via PayPal
otherwise osh is fine. I'm prepping a dozen kits tonight and I can ship
yours to you before osh or bring it, your choice...
thanks steve
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: handle auction for rv10 hq
>
> How do you want the payment handled?
>
> Check, cash, paypal? I can send something now, or hand it to you at OSH.
>
> bob
>>
>> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>> Date: 2008/07/21 Mon AM 11:53:45 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: handle auction for rv10 hq
>>
>>
>> All, sorry for the confusion
>> I've been looking at the timestamp on my email software.
>> When compared with the matronics times, they are definitely off by a few
>> minutes. so it looks like bob was the winner.
>> I know I mentioned extending, but, if there's no objection I'd like to
>> crown Bob Leffler the winner and close this up.
>> I always like to keep things informal and easygoing, so If I may seem
>> disorganized sometimes its because I am ;)
>> Steve DiNieri
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Corrosion |
Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice little
nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The pilot was
complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy that started flying in
2003. It has about 500 hours.
Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the bowl had a
small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started. The outside
looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole comes through.
Check carefully!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 HQ Group 2 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
People are REALLY pitching in to make this a great year and place to be. First,
thanks to Steve D. for the donation of the flush handle set and to Bob L. for
buying it!
Michael Sausen stopped by today with a lawnmower and folding table to leave here
for our use. In case you're wondering, Gary and I aren't planning on becoming
lawnboys... Michael is also going to bring by a large grill and a 10x20 canopy
for more shade. We have Gary's motorhome parked facing North so we get a
lot of afternoon shade from that and also have 2 additional 10x10 canopies.
All of that combined with the picnic tables that we scored plus folding tables
we already had will make this a LOT more comfortable than prior years.
WiFi is working (mostly) here at Scholler now. Bandwidth seems to be poor at the
moment but a big step forward from zero. I'm trying to send Tim some pix to
post but it's slow going...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194218#194218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Dave,
Have you replaced/removed the window yet? How did the silpruf work out?
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Window Trouble
Last week we bought a canopy cover from Van's. We used it in Eastern Oregon
a few days later, and when the plane got back to Watsonville, we found the
left rear window had gotten hot enough to distort pretty severly. Bummer.
In the picture, the reflection of the hangar in the door window is how it
should look. The back window is toasted.
I know that the polished wings sometimes reflect back towards the fuselage,
but I had no idea that the heat could be so intense. I think the cover may
have helped trap the heat, but I don't have any proof. The factory seems to
think it would have been worse without it. They talked about a polished
RV-4 that melted its canopy once. But ours has been outside for almost a
year now in some pretty hot, sunny climates without any issues, until the
cover went on.
As a bit of trivia, I just checked and found that the upper wing surface aft
of the spar is slightly concave, unlike an RV-6 we have in the hangar, which
is convex. With the flaps fully retracted, the concavity is more
pronounced. Now if I could just harness all that solar-collecting power...
Now I get to see just how easy that Sil-Pruf comes off.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 HQ Group 2 |
Thanks for everyones hard work and preparation, RaNae and I are very excited about
this year.
We will be bringing Guitar Hero (for the kids of course, not) and Tim is bring
a nice monitor and speakers.
I'm jealous that your there already Bob.
Thanks for the update on the mosquitoes as well.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: bcondrey <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 3:55:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 HQ Group 2
People are REALLY pitching in to make this a great year and place to be. First,
thanks to Steve D. for the donation of the flush handle set and to Bob L. for
buying it!
Michael Sausen stopped by today with a lawnmower and folding table to leave here
for our use. In case you're wondering, Gary and I aren't planning on becoming
lawnboys... Michael is also going to bring by a large grill and a 10x20 canopy
for more shade. We have Gary's motorhome parked facing North so we get a
lot of afternoon shade from that and also have 2 additional 10x10 canopies.
All of that combined with the picnic tables that we scored plus folding tables
we already had will make this a LOT more comfortable than prior years.
WiFi is working (mostly) here at Scholler now. Bandwidth seems to be poor at the
moment but a big step forward from zero. I'm trying to send Tim some pix to
post but it's slow going...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194218#194218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Hidden oil door hinge |
Anyone put one of these hidden door hinges on their oil door yet? I'm wrapping
up the little crap, I've had the door clecoed on for awhile and decided to install
it as, a, um..."little" Sunday afternoon project...I have the McMaster Carr
hinges and even fabricated a hinge based on Randy Phanzers (sp?) F1 rocket...the
darned thing just hangs up like it's spring loaded in the opening and won't
move off and away from the opening...I have made the opening very close tolerance
by casting it in micro/flox using the door as a mold...very neat and
precise fit...hacksaw blade gap. Well long story short....about 30 holes in the
cowl and door from moving it back and forth with no luck, now 30 floxed holes...I
can't get this thing to work...I know about the hinge from "justrvparts"...I'll
buy it if I think it will work, I just think that even though I passed
Algebra, Geometry and Trig I'm missing the correct location of the hinge line
or something simple...I even clecoed two business cards to the hinge trying to
understand it's operation while sitting on the couch last night...Even Sam Bucannan
(RV-6 guru) sorta slammed me when I asked this on the VAF list..."A person
who had made it this far building and RV would have no problem figuring out
where to mount the hinge"..well Sam @#$% @!#!!! Anyone have some insight? Oh
yeah......Sam %$#^ &^*!!!!
Rick Sked
40185
Little crap
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hidden oil door hinge |
Well Buddy, I went to the log to see what I had done and here's a snip
from it :
/The rest of the day was spent cutting out the oil cover. I got a
'hidden hinge'
but had some difficulty in mounting it. I finally figured out that in
order for the hinge to"lift" the oil door the way it is designed to
that I would have to reposition the hinge. Advice to anybody doing this
is to do a test with a couple pieces of scrap alum to see
where the hinge placement should be in order to avoid binding when
opening the door. It's not intuitive and took some
experimenting on my part./
So, I guess that means I'm not as smart as Sam or the others. IIRC what
I did was use some alum .032 pieces and experiment until I got it right
then transferred the hole positions to the cowl and fiberglass.
Deems
Plane is at the painters, the garage is empty, my Honey do list has gone
from 'suspended' to 'active' and growing, Help, I need an OSH fix
soon!!!!!!!!!
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Anyone put one of these hidden door hinges on their oil door yet?
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> Little crap
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hidden oil door hinge |
I just put one of these on my SJ cowl on my 6A I'll try to dig up the
pictures....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hidden oil door hinge
>
> Anyone put one of these hidden door hinges on their oil door yet? I'm
> wrapping up the little crap, I've had the door clecoed on for awhile and
> decided to install it as, a, um..."little" Sunday afternoon project...I
> have the McMaster Carr hinges and even fabricated a hinge based on Randy
> Phanzers (sp?) F1 rocket...the darned thing just hangs up like it's spring
> loaded in the opening and won't move off and away from the opening...I
> have made the opening very close tolerance by casting it in micro/flox
> using the door as a mold...very neat and precise fit...hacksaw blade gap.
> Well long story short....about 30 holes in the cowl and door from moving
> it back and forth with no luck, now 30 floxed holes...I can't get this
> thing to work...I know about the hinge from "justrvparts"...I'll buy it if
> I think it will work, I just think that even though I passed Algebra,
> Geometry and Trig I'm missing the correct location of the hinge line or
> something simple...I even clecoed two business c!
> ards to the hinge trying to understand it's operation while sitting on the
> couch last night...Even Sam Bucannan (RV-6 guru) sorta slammed me when I
> asked this on the VAF list..."A person who had made it this far building
> and RV would have no problem figuring out where to mount the hinge"..well
> Sam @#$% @!#!!! Anyone have some insight? Oh yeah......Sam %$#^ &^*!!!!
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> Little crap
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
I just talked to Eric -- he's been out of town -- and the countersink is on the
road again!
Headed to Thane next.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194288#194288
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | rear seat cover panel- should there be a gap? |
Is it normal to have a gap around the top of the rear seat cover panel
(35-4 figure 2)? I have a 1/8 gap from the skin as it sits on top of the
longeron and the aft of the cover panel off of 1034c. I have this the
same on both sides. I am thinking it should be a little more flush with
the skins, etc..
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Sorry to hear of your problem. I have a couple plexiglass scrapers from
the last time I worked on my Mooney fuel tanks. Be glad to assist if you
want. There is a Mooney shop that sells a solvent for PRC sealant that
can make that part of the work easier. I can get you contact info. A
more aggressive method is to use a stainless steel wire brush cup in an
air drill...but I don't like what that does to the tank skins.
My annual on my Mooney is turning into a lot more work than I
anticipated when I started it. Just typical stuff that shows up when
parts get old, but takes time and $$.
Kelly
Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
> Had one of the worst screw ups in my building career tonight......and
> of course the fact that was 103 and humid didn't soothe my termperment
> either. While match drilling the bottom skins on my wings, one of the
> spar ends fell and damaged the forward nose rib and skin pretty bad.
> The number one reason I bought QB wings was to avoid building those
> fuel tanks, and now it looks like I have to drill one apart and reskin
> it. Any shortcuts?..........(he asks, knowing there is likely only
> alot of elbow grease to look forward to)
>
> Mike Lefever
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hidden oil door hinge |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
It was a difficult job. but I just did not want those two didlies sticking up on
the nice smooth cowl. I found that I had to put a bit of camber in the door
to make it "go flat". I also ran a z-strip to rigidify the door at the closure
side. The Hartwell clip (available at OSH) are well made and last forever. Get
them at Osh on the cheap. Here is an inside view. Note - I am not flying so
it is not a proven product yet.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194307#194307
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pc250015_109.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hidden Oil Door hinge |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I've got the hidden oil door hinge from rvparts, but not installed it
yet. I'd like to maybe be able to skip the Harwell latches and have a
truly hidden system. I've seen other RVs with a cable release that runs
up to the air intake area. Anyone got any other clever ideas? Some
sort of magnetic-release latch?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hidden Oil Door hinge |
Tim,
Here are a few links:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7380&highlight=h
idden+oil+door+hinge
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=1606&highlight=d
oor
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=30158&highlight=
hidden+oil+door+hinge
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Dawson-Townsend" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 7:32:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Hidden Oil Door hinge
I=99ve got the hidden oil door hinge from rvparts, but not installed
it yet.=C2- I=99d like to maybe be able to skip the Harwell latches
and have a truly hidden system.=C2- I=99ve seen other RVs with a c
able release that runs up to the air intake area.=C2- Anyone got any othe
r clever ideas?=C2- Some sort of magnetic-release latch?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Andair Corrosion |
Hi,
That looks bad .. Have you been in contact with Andair about it ...??
Jan
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: 21 July 2008 22:34
Subject: RV-List: Andair Corrosion
Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice little
nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The pilot was
complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy that started flying in
2003. It has about 500 hours.
Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the bowl had a
small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started. The outside
looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole comes through.
Check carefully!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">
Hi,
That looks bad .. Have you been in
contact
with Andair about it …??
Jan
From:
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: 21 July 2008
22:34
To: 'Lancair Mailing
List';
rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Andair
Corrosion
Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice
little
nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The
pilot was
complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy
that started flying
in 2003. It has about 500 hours.
Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the
bowl
had a small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started.
The
outside looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole
comes
through.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140
Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Andair Corrosion - Fuel tank corrosion |
Makes me think ...Have anyone experience corrosion in the fuel tank on a RV
.... Assuming they have not used Alodine before assembling it with "Pro
Seal" ... Maybe not an issue in hot and dry climates ... but in humid
climates... ??
Jan
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: 22 July 2008 22:17
Subject: RE: RV-List: Andair Corrosion
Hi,
That looks bad .. Have you been in contact with Andair about it ...??
Jan
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: 21 July 2008 22:34
Subject: RV-List: Andair Corrosion
Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice little
nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The pilot was
complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy that started flying in
2003. It has about 500 hours.
Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the bowl had a
small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started. The outside
looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole comes through.
Check carefully!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">
Makes me think …Have anyone
experience corrosion in the fuel tank on a RV …. Assuming they
have not
used Alodine before assembling it with “Pro Seal” …
Maybe not
an issue in hot and dry climates … but in humid climates…
??
Jan
From:
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: 22 July 2008
22:17
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com;
'Lancair Mailing List'; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List:
Andair
Corrosion
Hi,
That looks bad .. Have you been in
contact
with Andair about it …??
Jan
From:
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: 21 July 2008
22:34
To: 'Lancair Mailing
List'; rv10-list(at)matronics.com;
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Andair
Corrosion
Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice
little
nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The
pilot was
complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy
that started flying
in 2003. It has about 500 hours.
Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the
bowl
had a small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started.
The
outside looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole
comes
through.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140
Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List: Andair Corrosion |
I've seen this many times on certified aircraft, it source is water in
the fuel.
jan wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> That looks bad .. Have you been in contact with Andair about it ??
>
> Jan
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* 21 July 2008 22:34
> *To:* 'Lancair Mailing List'; rv10-list(at)matronics.com;
> rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Andair Corrosion
>
> Here's a picture of an Andair GAS500 fuel bowl showing the nice little
> nozzle created by corrosion all the way through the bowl. The pilot
> was complaining of fuel smell. The plane is a Legacy that started
> flying in 2003. It has about 500 hours.
>
> Before the corrosion got all the way through, the inside of the bowl
> had a small, shiny, unanodized patch where the corrosion started. The
> outside looks perfect except for a small black speck where the hole
> comes through.
>
> Check carefully!
>
> Dave Saylor
>
> AirCrafters LLC
>
> 140 Aviation Way
>
> Watsonville, CA
>
> 831-722-9141
>
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
thanks much!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
>
> Hey Thane,
>
> I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in
> contacting Eric Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case there is
> a problem with the email, I have found a phone number and I will try to
> call him today. Maybe at OSH? If anyone has contact with him, let me
> know.
>
> By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the
> countersink - so that I can eventually get it back to you.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | federal gasoline tax |
Your representatives in lala land are considering increasing the federal gasoline
tax by $.14 to $.34 per gallon. My senators and representatives confirmed it
today by phone. The Congress has done everything within its power to prohibit
the exploration, production, transportation and refining of domestic energy.
Now they are trying to increase the taxes on gasoline. Consider contacting your
representatives to express your concern or rage as the case may be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net> |
This not the camping area is it?? Last year a lot of RV-10's were parked in front
of the camping area. Has anyone worked on a place for the camping RV-10's????
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194589#194589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
There are two RV parking areas. In the HBP area, there is a specific area,
similar to last year in which all RV-10's are parked together. I believe
that Tim and Jeff are still looking for volunteers to assist with that
effort. I'll be there assisting RV-10s that come in on Sunday.
I don't believe that the HBC area will be segregated by model type, but then
I could be wrong. I believe that it has been done on a first come, first
serve basis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie
Wade
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 4:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH
This not the camping area is it?? Last year a lot of RV-10's were parked in
front of the camping area. Has anyone worked on a place for the camping
RV-10's????
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194589#194589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Woods" <rwshooter(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: federal gasoline tax |
I have.....bummer is......I got Harry Reid......no joy my friends
----- Original Message -----
From: <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 12:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: federal gasoline tax
Your representatives in lala land are considering increasing the federal
gasoline tax by $.14 to $.34 per gallon. My senators and representatives
confirmed it today by phone. The Congress has done everything within its
power to prohibit the exploration, production, transportation and refining
of domestic energy. Now they are trying to increase the taxes on gasoline.
Consider contacting your representatives to express your concern or rage as
the case may be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: federal gasoline tax |
Good reason not to discuss politics here.
Robert Woods wrote:
>
> I have.....bummer is......I got Harry Reid......no joy my friends
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 12:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: federal gasoline tax
>
>
> Your representatives in lala land are considering increasing the federal
> gasoline tax by $.14 to $.34 per gallon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Dave,
If you are going to insure your aircraft, I would guess the insurance company would
use non-compliance with the SB as a reason to weasel out of paying a claim.
It could also be an issue if you wanted to sell the plane.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194627#194627
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Think of it as insurance
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 3:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I prefer to remove the empennage myself, in the hangar - rather than
have it do so on its own, at 10000'.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, 24 July 2008 8:22 AM
To: RV-10 matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
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checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
I am in the process of riveting together the vertical stab on my RV 10. I
see there is no provision for a strobe or beacon on the top of the VS. Has
any one made this mod. I am an old head and like to be seen at night on the
ground and in the air. But hate aircraft that run there strobe lights while
taxiing.
Please shoot me your thoughts on this thanks. I think it would be a very
easy thing to do and I probably will do something like this.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
Do you realy need to ask.......
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Woods" <rwshooter(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: federal gasoline tax |
sorry kelly...you are sooo right
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: federal gasoline tax
Good reason not to discuss politics here.
Robert Woods wrote:
>
> I have.....bummer is......I got Harry Reid......no joy my friends
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 12:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: federal gasoline tax
>
>
> Your representatives in lala land are considering increasing the federal
> gasoline tax by $.14 to $.34 per gallon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob Leffler!
We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the every arrival
crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If you're
a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp Scholler.
Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't run short
of food & drink.
Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 OSH Picnic |
Janice and I will be there. Let us know if there is anything we can do to
help. Our plans are to be there around 9-10am.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 10:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob Leffler!
We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the every
arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
Scholler.
Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
run short of food & drink.
Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
In all honesty, I just don't know if I believe there is any good reason
to
pull apart those assemblies. I know I have to do it, but man I don't
want
to!!!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris, Susie, Darcy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Do you realy need to ask.......
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Dave;
it's a bummer but I was surprised how quickly it actually took. I think
there was more time thinking about it than the 2.5 hours to complete it.
If you are at the flying stage just do your thing, check the area during
the annual as recommended and when you've had enough do it.
Personally I figure if Van's has a SB out there and they send the parts
they think it's worth the effort and realize this issue as being rather
serious. It may be all about liability, it may be about fixing an issue
they acknowledge is a weakness, but they think it's a good reason to do
the SB regardless.
Get motivated one day and do it,
P
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
In all honesty, I just don't know if I believe there is any good reason
to
pull apart those assemblies. I know I have to do it, but man I don't
want
to!!!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris, Susie, Darcy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Do you realy need to ask.......
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
What if I never do the SB on the tailcone of my plane?
Fire away!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Vans sells a combo (white) position-light/strobe that goes on the bottom of the
Rudder. I believe that the lights are on separate switches. If that is not adequate,
have at it. It should not be too hard. Whelen makes a small beacon that
they put on the newer Cessnas, but you could probably fabricate a better one
yourself using LED's.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194697#194697
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Can't think of anything we need. Just put up the 10x20 shade to complement the
2 smaller ones. Also now have a full size grill and barn fan! Quite the operation
this year...
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed Jul 23 19:44:53 2008
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Janice and I will be there. Let us know if there is anything we can do to
help. Our plans are to be there around 9-10am.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 10:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob Leffler!
We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the every
arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
Scholler.
Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
run short of food & drink.
Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out hole gets too
large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The others might be
fun to try on someone else's project.
Cheers,
Jay
1) AN3 + washer/nut
2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
3) duct tape
4) chewing gum
5) proseal
6) bailing wire
7) more primer
8) a good place for an adel clamp
Cheers,
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
I had a couple of these when doing the SB (I did it without removing the aft
deck--more trouble than it was worth in retrospect). I used CherryMax
CR-3243-4-x rivets. Just drill to #27 and they install like normal blind
rivets.
This place sells them individually:
http://www.ddaircraft.com/subcategory.cfm?Subcategory=CR3243&Category=RIVETS
-Rob
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 9:00 AM, Jay Brinkmeyer
wrote:
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The others
> might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
John, I mounted an LED beacon in the fairing on top of the vertical stabilizer.
I actually cut into the fairing, and glassed in a pocket so only the lens portion
of the beacon was sticking out. I did not want the entire assembly sticking
up in the air stream.
Obviously we are thinking alike, I do not want to have to run the strobes all the
time. The beacon is LED so it should last for along time, will not emit radio
noise, and uses very little power.
The 'trick' I used, if I can call it a trick, was to use a PVC pipe cap from the
hardware store as a mold for the pocket I glassed in. After receiving the beacon
I began to study it, and realized the the base of the beacon was in fact
a PVC pipe cap, so the fit in the end was perfect.
Got the beacon from Spruce $230 ish...
I wish I had a few pictures for you but I am at KOSH and don't have any with me.
--------
RV-10 Quick Build
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194737#194737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
Thanks so much Jason, I wish I was there with you maybe next year.
If you could please send me some pics when you get back from your trip that
would be great. I will make sure I install a conduit on the VS before I
rivet the skin on I am hoping next week.
Thanks again.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 10:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab
John, I mounted an LED beacon in the fairing on top of the vertical
stabilizer. I actually cut into the fairing, and glassed in a pocket so
only the lens portion of the beacon was sticking out. I did not want the
entire assembly sticking up in the air stream.
Obviously we are thinking alike, I do not want to have to run the strobes
all the time. The beacon is LED so it should last for along time, will not
emit radio noise, and uses very little power.
The 'trick' I used, if I can call it a trick, was to use a PVC pipe cap from
the hardware store as a mold for the pocket I glassed in. After receiving
the beacon I began to study it, and realized the the base of the beacon was
in fact a PVC pipe cap, so the fit in the end was perfect.
Got the beacon from Spruce $230 ish...
I wish I had a few pictures for you but I am at KOSH and don't have any with
me.
--------
RV-10 Quick Build
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194737#194737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
I used 3 AN3-X bolts in my whole SB; two .- There for a while I was wonde
ring if I was helping or hurting the structure.=0A-=0ARob=0A=0A=0A=0A----
- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>=0A
PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rive
o.com>=0A=0AWhat an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled
out hole gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2.
The others might be fun to try on someone else's project.=0A=0ACheers,=0AJa
y=0A=0A1) AN3 + washer/nut=0A2) #8 pan head screw +- washer/nut=0A3) duct
tape=0A4) chewing gum=0A5) proseal=0A6) bailing wire=0A7) more primer=0A8)
a good place for an adel clamp=0A=0ACheers,=0AJay=0A=0A=0A=0A- - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
======0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
too large to fit the old rivet?
I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much chewing
gum you use! ;-)
Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2 seem
fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4 to
AD4704-5, etc..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
CHECK OUT _http://www.kestrobes.com/beacon.htm_
(http://www.kestrobes.com/beacon.htm)
**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
Anyone know where to get a cover for a strobe. In other words. I have a
red strobe (like the white strobes put in the wingtips) and need a cover
for it. I too planned to do the VS or belly but haven't found a cover
option I can use.
Thanks!
Pascal
From: Dickk9(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab
CHECK OUT http://www.kestrobes.com/beacon.htm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse
Fantasy Football today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
I think the cherry max rivets are oversized to deal with slightly larger
holes due to removed rivets.
-CHris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> too large to fit the old rivet?
>
> I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much chewing
> gum you use! ;-)
>
> Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2 seem
> fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
> same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4 to
> AD4704-5, etc..
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
> To: "RV10"
> Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
>>
>> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out hole
>> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
>> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jay
>>
>> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
>> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
>> 3) duct tape
>> 4) chewing gum
>> 5) proseal
>> 6) bailing wire
>> 7) more primer
>> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I've heard speculation from someone close to the situation that they
believe that the bulkhead simply wasn't properly deburred on that one
aircraft. Given that it was primarily used for transition training,
with a lot of stalls shaking the tail, it wasn't too surprising. More
significant is that no one else seems to have found a crack, nor was
there one on 410RV.
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Chris wrote:
> John, you make some excellent points.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
Just do it and move on.
regards Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Over a year ago, while working on the emppange, I installed a gusset on eac
h side of the same area in question in the SB.- Can someone take a look a
t what I did and comment as to whether this should take care of the problem
?- Thanks guys.-
Don McDonald
#40636- - finishing the finishing
--- On Thu, 7/24/08, Kelly McMullen wrote:
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Date: Thursday, July 24, 2008, 3:04 PM
I've heard speculation from someone close to the situation that they
believe that the bulkhead simply wasn't properly deburred on that one
aircraft. Given that it was primarily used for transition training,
with a lot of stalls shaking the tail, it wasn't too surprising. More
significant is that no one else seems to have found a crack, nor was
there one on 410RV.
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Chris wrote:
> John, you make some excellent points.
>
============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
Don that looks a fantastic job indeed. I would direct the question to
engineering department at vans as we only have opinions. Sometimes
beefing something up can cause problems in other areas so I would ask
the people that designed the kit engineering(at)vansaircraft.com.
Looking forward to the afternoon today as I have completed the test
period of 15 hours and the family will be on board the sarvo for there
first flight!
regards Chris
VH-ICY
No tunnel heat
No cracks
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Over a year ago, while working on the emppange, I installed a
gusset on each side of the same area in question in the SB. Can someone
take a look at what I did and comment as to whether this should take
care of the problem? Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
#40636 - finishing the finishing
--- On Thu, 7/24/08, Kelly McMullen wrote:
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, July 24, 2008, 3:04 PM
I've heard speculation from someone close to the situation that they
believe that the bulkhead simply wasn't properly deburred on that one
aircraft. Given that it was primarily used for transition training,
with a lot of stalls shaking the tail, it wasn't too surprising. More
significant is that no one else seems to have found a crack, nor was
there one on 410RV.
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Chris wrote:
> John, you make some excellent points.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Heh heh...looks great Don but a few of them rivets on the J stingers on the
left side=C2-seem a little lightly driven...
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McDonald" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 4:36:23 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Over a year ago, while working on the emppange, I installed a gusset on eac
h side of the same area in question in the SB.=C2- Can someone take a loo
k at what I did and comment as to whether this should take care of the prob
lem?=C2- Thanks guys.=C2-
Don McDonald
#40636=C2- - finishing the finishing
--- On Thu, 7/24/08, Kelly McMullen wrote:
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1
Date: Thursday, July 24, 2008, 3:04 PM
I've heard speculation from someone close to the situation that they
believe that the bulkhead simply wasn't properly deburred on that one
aircraft. Given that it was primarily used for transition training,
with a lot of stalls shaking the tail, it wasn't too surprising. More
significant is that no one else seems to have found a crack, nor was
there one on 410RV.
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 1:44 PM, Chris wrote:
> John, you make some excellent points.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Bob and company,
That's an offer we can't refuse. Dave and Wendy Moore will be there. We'll bring
some cookies.
--------
Dave
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194809#194809
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door seal |
| From: | "ScooterF15" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
To follow up on this thread, I found the name of the product I used for the baggage
door seal described below. I just checked and my local Home Depot has it
on the shelf next to the other weather stripping. It is made by Frost King, it's
called X-treme Rubber Weather Seal (3/8" wide 1/8" thick), product number "WhiteV23W".
Jim
N312JE
[quote="ScooterF15"]I ended up using some that I purchased at Home Depot. I initially
bought a roll of door seal that was the gray colored foam with a rectangular
cross section. I bought the thinnest one available and it just wouldn't
work because it was to thick.
I found a different style that worked perfectly on an adjacent shelf at Home
Depot: the box is out at the hangar so I can't give you a brand/model name right
now, but it is made of extremely soft tan colored foam that squishes flat
very well. Also the cross section has 3 ridges (it kind of looks like this:
/// ), so there isn't as much material to begin with. As far as my passengers
can tell (I've never ridden back there) it is sealed perfectly and allows for
easy opening and closing of the door.
-Jim
N312JE
In a message dated 1/13/2008 7:46:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, speckter(at)comcast.net
writes:
>
> I know the question has been asked before, but a search did not produce any
answers. What door seal works with the baggage door. I got some from Lowes
but it is too thick and McMaster doesnt show any the right size. Suggestions
from all you flying guys?
>
> Gary
> 40274
Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape (http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489) in the new year.
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194812#194812
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
John,
Sorry the timing doesn't quite work. We've talked about a couple more during the
week but haven't firmed up any plans yet. Of course, there's always the smaller,
ad hoc events that seem to happen almost every night!
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194821#194821
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Pascal, when an AN470 universal or an AN426 countersink rivet hole is
enlarged or elongated, the next step is to drill for a OOPs rivet which
has an NAS designation. They are designed to hide the travesty. I have
trays of them at Paul Grimstad's (no reflection on his drilling
prowess). I cannot recall the ID number but Paul could fill you in. My
trays are -3, -4 and -5's.
The technique of drilling, removing and re-installing comes to all who
acquire the Repairman Certificate. Those who use Professional
Gunslingers won' know what they are missing.
John (over night in Miles City, Montana enroute to the BIG ONE or
Aviation Mecca '08.)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of pascal
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
too large to fit the old rivet?
I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much
chewing
gum you use! ;-)
Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2
seem
fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4
to
AD4704-5, etc..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out
hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-10 OSH Picnic |
Hi Bob
There is a 50/50 chance my daughter and I will be at KOSH in time for some
BBQ. If we make it, is there a number we can call in advance?
Cheers
Les Kearney
& Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: July-23-08 8:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob Leffler!
We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the every
arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
Scholler.
Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
run short of food & drink.
Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?certainly good points and thanks to Tim's recommendation I have a
draw of Oops rivets myself. In the SB case however these are 470-4
rivets not 470-3 than require an Oops to repair. Jay is looking for an
option for his larger 470-4 rivet, I have used one size larger with -4
rivets. Done slowly has shown good results.
Also as a reminder from the Section 5, Jay was right with his two
options- "One of the common calls we get is "I had to drill out a bad
rivet and now the hole is oversize. What do I do?". Sometimes this is
done multiple times in the same hole and now the hole is so large that
the builder has to use a bolt and nut instead of a rivet."
Additionally for us gunslingers, with the technique of drilling maybe
shouldn't be drilling to start with:
EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated 1984.
"The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently
uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape,
inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the
shank (not "clinched") and whether there is excessive
cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked
heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength,
fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked)
rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well
formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile
strengths of all the rivets were within five per cent of the
strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the
theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or
replacement.
The second rivet that is driven in any one hole likely to be more
defective than the first because the hole is enlarged
and rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head."
I stand by my using a larger rivet in this case because we HAD to drill
and rivet again. I did it and it worked just fine.
Pascal
From: John Cox
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
Pascal, when an AN470 universal or an AN426 countersink rivet hole is
enlarged or elongated, the next step is to drill for a OOPs rivet which
has an NAS designation. They are designed to hide the travesty. I have
trays of them at Paul Grimstad's (no reflection on his drilling
prowess). I cannot recall the ID number but Paul could fill you in. My
trays are -3, -4 and -5's.
The technique of drilling, removing and re-installing comes to all who
acquire the Repairman Certificate. Those who use Professional
Gunslingers won' know what they are missing.
John (over night in Miles City, Montana enroute to the BIG ONE or
Aviation Mecca '08.)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of pascal
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
too large to fit the old rivet?
I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much
chewing
gum you use! ;-)
Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2
seem
fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4
to
AD4704-5, etc..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out
hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
&ghref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ic
&href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; - List Contribution Web Site bsp; -Matt
Dralle, List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Fellow RV builders,
We head out today to Oshkosh today and look forward to meeting
you all. We'll be camping with the RV-10 group this year and we'll be
exhibiting in the East Hall, Booth 5016.
Please stop by and see our new products. We will be
introducing two new products to the TCW Technologies offerings.
Come try out the working demos of "Intelligent Power Stabilizer" and
"Intelligent Lighting Controller". A preview of these new products
is now up on our web site. www.tcwtech.com
We also have our working demo of Safety-Trim and Intelligent
Flap Controller for your review.
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Don,
Sorry buddy, but the added gussets on the longerons won't cut the mustard. The
gussets provide stiffening in the yaw axis, but does not help the compression
on the bulkhead. I would do the SB as stated.
The discussion has been interesting and sometimes makes me, an engineering director,
squirm a little. This thread has raised issues of structural integrity
of the 10 based on a lot of speculation and not too many facts. PJ Seipel said
it best: "every aircraft is a set of compromises". If you want a completely
bullet proof structure, it will never get off the ground. The goal of the designer
is to make the stucture strong enough, no more. To the non-engineer, the
results sometimes look questionable.
The beauty of experimentals is that we have a lot of license to personalize our
aircraft. Use caution, however, when you tinker with the structure. You may
be doing more harm than good.
Remember that airplanes are never safe, only relatively safe, and that most accidents
are pilot induced and not a result of structural failure. Also remember
that you guys out there flying RV-10s are experimenters and still working out
the bugs in the aircraft. You are doing a great service for the rest of us.
On a couple other points. The brake cylinder location has not been an issue on
my RV-6. I suspect that they are located aft because to relocate them forward
would require at least 4 inches more clearance to the FW. This means moving
the engine forward 4 inches or the front seats back. Another CG compromise.
The over sized hole while doing the SB - why not use an AN470AD6 (3/16) rivet?
--------
Dave
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194850#194850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Laying here in the NoTell Motel in Miles City the revelation came to me
last night. NAS1097-x-x
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Cox
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
Pascal, when an AN470 universal or an AN426 countersink rivet hole is
enlarged or elongated, the next step is to drill for a OOPs rivet which
has an NAS designation. They are designed to hide the travesty. I have
trays of them at Paul Grimstad's (no reflection on his drilling
prowess). I cannot recall the ID number but Paul could fill you in. My
trays are -3, -4 and -5's.
The technique of drilling, removing and re-installing comes to all who
acquire the Repairman Certificate. Those who use Professional
Gunslingers won' know what they are missing.
John (over night in Miles City, Montana enroute to the BIG ONE or
Aviation Mecca '08.)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of pascal
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
too large to fit the old rivet?
I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much
chewing
gum you use! ;-)
Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2
seem
fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4
to
AD4704-5, etc..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out
hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
&ghref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ic
&href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; - List Contribution Web Site bsp; -Matt
Dralle, List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Drilling rivets do not necessarily mandate going oversized after
removal. The need for a large bit is often the result of eyesight, hand
coordination and the possibility of multiple sheets of skin fastened
together. It is not uncommon using typical techniques to get up to
three removals before things begin to get questionable. Us older guys
use more OOPs and the younger tykes can often pull off miracles.
The OOPs can keep the head appearing to conform to a correctly driven
original rivet.
I keep lots of OOPs and seldom need them.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of pascal
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
certainly good points and thanks to Tim's recommendation I have a draw
of Oops rivets myself. In the SB case however these are 470-4 rivets not
470-3 than require an Oops to repair. Jay is looking for an option for
his larger 470-4 rivet, I have used one size larger with -4 rivets. Done
slowly has shown good results.
Also as a reminder from the Section 5, Jay was right with his two
options- "One of the common calls we get is "I had to drill out a bad
rivet and now the hole is oversize. What do I do?". Sometimes this is
done multiple times in the same hole and now the hole is so large that
the builder has to use a bolt and nut instead of a rivet."
Additionally for us gunslingers, with the technique of drilling maybe
shouldn't be drilling to start with:
EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated 1984.
"The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently
uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape,
inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the
shank (not "clinched") and whether there is excessive
cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked
heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength,
fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked)
rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well
formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile
strengths of all the rivets were within five per cent of the
strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the
theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or
replacement.
The second rivet that is driven in any one hole likely to be more
defective than the first because the hole is enlarged
and rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head."
I stand by my using a larger rivet in this case because we HAD to drill
and rivet again. I did it and it worked just fine.
Pascal
From: John Cox <mailto:johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
Pascal, when an AN470 universal or an AN426 countersink rivet hole is
enlarged or elongated, the next step is to drill for a OOPs rivet which
has an NAS designation. They are designed to hide the travesty. I have
trays of them at Paul Grimstad's (no reflection on his drilling
prowess). I cannot recall the ID number but Paul could fill you in. My
trays are -3, -4 and -5's.
The technique of drilling, removing and re-installing comes to all who
acquire the Repairman Certificate. Those who use Professional
Gunslingers won' know what they are missing.
John (over night in Miles City, Montana enroute to the BIG ONE or
Aviation Mecca '08.)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of pascal
Sent: Thu 7/24/2008 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470
rivet?
too large to fit the old rivet?
I would not recommend using the old rivet, regardless of how much
chewing
gum you use! ;-)
Do you mean the hole is too large for the head of a 470? if so 1 or 2
seem
fine if you mean the hole is smaller than the head but to big to fit the
same length in than simply go up one length of the rivet aka AD4704-4
to
AD4704-5, etc..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet?
>
> What an acceptable substitute for an AN470 rivet when a drilled out
hole
> gets too large to fit the old rivet? My best guess are #1 or #2. The
> others might be fun to try on someone else's project.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> 1) AN3 + washer/nut
> 2) #8 pan head screw + washer/nut
> 3) duct tape
> 4) chewing gum
> 5) proseal
> 6) bailing wire
> 7) more primer
> 8) a good place for an adel clamp
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
&ghref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ic
&href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; - List Contribution Web Site bsp; -Matt
Dralle, List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Jay,
I think the thread has drifted a little. The NAS1097 is an Oops rivet for an AN426,
and you were talking about a buggered hole for an AN470A4, right? My choices
would be:
AN470A5-x with a tensile strength of 16,000
AN470AD5-x with a tensile strength of 38,000
#8 screw with a tensile strength of 60,000
AN3-x with a tensile strength of 125,000
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194870#194870
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe or becan on top of Virtical Stab |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Pascal,
If you only need a streamline cover, check out this page at Kuntzleman lighting:
http://www.kestrobes.com/heads.htm#NEW_ITEM!
scroll down a little - only $10.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194876#194876
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Just give me a call on my cell: 402 651 0402.
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu Jul 24 21:03:37 2008
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Hi Bob
There is a 50/50 chance my daughter and I will be at KOSH in time for some
BBQ. If we make it, is there a number we can call in advance?
Cheers
Les Kearney
& Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: July-23-08 8:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob Leffler!
We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the every
arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
Scholler.
Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
run short of food & drink.
Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sunvisor installation (was Cabin Roof) |
Dave=2C
I have been wondering about drilling the holes in the rain channel for the
Rosen visors and have held off because of this concern. Did you come up wit
h a different approach for mounting them?
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
From: Dave(at)aircraftersllc.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List:
Cabin RoofDate: Thu=2C 24 Jul 2008 17:29:28 -0700
My sense is that the top is very strong.
I had a discussion with the factory=2C the upshot of which was that Enginee
ring was concerned about (prohibited) drilling the 2 #10 holes in the rain
channel for the visor mounts. Rather than thinking "jeez=2C it won't even
take a couple little holes"=2C the proper thought should be that some parts
are critical and should not be casually modified. Those channels were des
igned from the beginning to be strong enough to protect the occupants.
I know the upper roof section is VERY thick for a fiberglass piece. Again
=2C that is for a reason (added strength)=2C not because it was easy or che
ap. The core is pretty dense too=2C adding to the strength.
The cage formed by the door frames and roof looks pretty strong. Everythin
g has a limit=2C but the roof doesn't seem to me at all like a weak point.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_________________________________________________________________
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM
_WL_Refresh_messenger_video_072008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Sunvisor installation (was Cabin Roof) |
Vern,
Mine were in and working great before I heard the news. I guess my point is
that a lot of thinking went into the design of the structure, with the
intention of having it remain intact in a crash. I do believe that drilling
the holes in the structure makes is weaker, but I HOPE not too much. That's
all I can go on. I don't have any numbers.
If you were really concerned about it, you could lay up some additional BID
inside or outside the channel, as long as it didn't interfere with the fit
of the doors. Again, no numbers, but 4 layers of 7781 3" above and below
the holes should do it. This assumes there isn't some really elegant
engineering involved that takes compression rates and failure modes into
account. An extra stiff area would change all that. I'm just talking about
a big doubler to beef up the weakened part.
Now that I'm thinking about it, that would give you an oppurtunity to bond
in the screws and create a flat pad for the base. You could do it all in
one step. Mine ended up with a gap fore and aft that I had to fill after
the fact.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 7:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sunvisor installation (was Cabin Roof)
Dave,
I have been wondering about drilling the holes in the rain channel for the
Rosen visors and have held off because of this concern. Did you come up with
a different approach for mounting them?
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
_____
From: Dave(at)aircraftersllc.com
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Roof
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 17:29:28 -0700
My sense is that the top is very strong.
I had a discussion with the factory, the upshot of which was that
Engineering was concerned about (prohibited) drilling the 2 #10 holes in the
rain channel for the visor mounts. Rather than thinking "jeez, it won't
even take a couple little holes", the proper thought should be that some
parts are critical and should not be casually modified. Those channels were
designed from the beginning to be strong enough to protect the occupants.
I know the upper roof section is VERY thick for a fiberglass piece. Again,
that is for a reason (added strength), not because it was easy or cheap.
The core is pretty dense too, adding to the strength.
The cage formed by the door frames and roof looks pretty strong. Everything
has a limit, but the roof doesn't seem to me at all like a weak point.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. Get
started.
<http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_W
L_Refresh_messenger_video_072008>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sunvisor installation (was Cabin Roof) |
Hmmm=2C good information to chew on. Maybe I'll make a small mounting brack
et/pad and epoxy it to the inside of the window post. This would eliminate
the need for the holes in the rain channel.
Of course there shouldn't be a problem if I keep the plane shiny side up an
d the dirt side down=3B)
Thanks=2C
Vern
From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-L
ist: Sunvisor installation (was Cabin Roof)Date: Fri=2C 25 Jul 2008 10:00:2
Vern=2C
Mine were in and working great before I heard the news. I guess my point i
s that a lot of thinking went into the design of the structure=2C with the
intention of having it remain intact in a crash. I do believe that drillin
g the holes in the structure makes is weaker=2C but I HOPE not too much. T
hat's all I can go on. I don't have any numbers.
If you were really concerned about it=2C you could lay up some additional B
ID inside or outside the channel=2C as long as it didn't interfere with the
fit of the doors. Again=2C no numbers=2C but 4 layers of 7781 3" above an
d below the holes should do it. This assumes there isn't some really elega
nt engineering involved that takes compression rates and failure modes into
account. An extra stiff area would change all that. I'm just talking abo
ut a big doubler to beef up the weakened part.
Now that I'm thinking about it=2C that would give you an oppurtunity to bon
d in the screws and create a flat pad for the base. You could do it all in
one step. Mine ended up with a gap fore and aft that I had to fill after
the fact.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon SmithSent: Friday=2C July 25=2C 2008 7:45
AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Sunvisor installation
(was Cabin Roof)
Dave=2C I have been wondering about drilling the holes in the rain channel
for the Rosen visors and have held off because of this concern. Did you co
me up with a different approach for mounting them? Vern Smith (#324 finish
ing)
From: Dave(at)aircraftersllc.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List:
Cabin RoofDate: Thu=2C 24 Jul 2008 17:29:28 -0700
My sense is that the top is very strong.
I had a discussion with the factory=2C the upshot of which was that Enginee
ring was concerned about (prohibited) drilling the 2 #10 holes in the rain
channel for the visor mounts. Rather than thinking "jeez=2C it won't even
take a couple little holes"=2C the proper thought should be that some parts
are critical and should not be casually modified. Those channels were des
igned from the beginning to be strong enough to protect the occupants.
I know the upper roof section is VERY thick for a fiberglass piece. Again
=2C that is for a reason (added strength)=2C not because it was easy or che
ap. The core is pretty dense too=2C adding to the strength.
The cage formed by the door frames and roof looks pretty strong. Everythin
g has a limit=2C but the roof doesn't seem to me at all like a weak point.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. Ge
t started.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_mess
enger2_072008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
any consensus on oil choices--exxon elite 15w50 aeroshell?? larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194944#194944
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
I just wanted to post a few observations and comments about the RV 10 do
ors and maybe start a thread on it again as NEW builders may not look ba
ck at the archives. First, I seldom post on here anymore as I would rat
her help people via the phone then trying to argue a point in this forum
. But, when I feel new builders are being led down a path they need not
go I wanna balance out the discussion.
Several posts have been made implying or stating the doors on the RV 10
are unsafe or poorly designed. I disagree. If someone can show me an R
V 10 with the doors built per Van's specs and it is unsafe I would love
to see it. Can It be improved some.........sure...but what part on the
plane can you look at and say it cannot be improved?
I feel after seeing several doors over the past few years that more peop
le could benefit from learning how to fit/build these doors then dreamin
g up a fix to make them "safer". The doors are NOT an easy part to buil
d and fit on the RV10. Hire someone to do it if you are not qualified..
......this will save you time and money in the long run versus chasing d
own building a "new" design that has not been engineered and tested.
Comments were made earlier about how DUMB a person would be to not do th
e SB on the tail ASAP. My question is.......How dumb is it to modify AN
Y part of the RV 10 plans........rudder pedals, elevator trim, wing tank
s, etc.? If you think you may be at RISK with your insurance company by
NOT doing the SB,,,,,,,,,,how much at RISK are you when you do/did 25 m
ods or more to the plans and NONE of them have been approved by Van's or
any other authorized agency? Does that mean one should not do any mods
to the RV10? No. There is a big difference between WANTED mods versu
s NEEDED mods. But if it is not per Vans plans, it is considered a mod
and differs from how the plane was originally designed and flown.
If you are a new builder, look around at several RV 10's to see the doo
rs in person. Ask questions HOW they got them to fit so well. Take a c
lass on fiberglass. But do not waste time and money worrying these door
s are not safe and will function properly when constructed properly.
If anyone wants to discuss this topic in person see me at OSH Sunday til
l Thursday. Call me if you want.
Have a great time building this wonderful plane. Fly safe!
Dean 850HL
402-560-9755
____________________________________________________________
Click to make millions by owning your own franchise.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iifWGNh1Jv63y8pJyDyCW0x
dEnIDb9ALbMajLAQY7qD1ZBj2E/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I've been using Aeroshell 15W-50 in just about everything lately. In the
planes I'm familiar with, I've seen a solid 10-15 degree drop in oil temp.
And it has all the additives that Lycoming wants mixed in so you don't need
anything else.
What I really want someone else to do is run some automotive oil in an
airplane engine to see how well it works. But I'm not man enough for that
test.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 1:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil choice
any consensus on oil choices--exxon elite 15w50 aeroshell?? larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194944#194944
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 40725 is Alive and Flying |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
#40725 flies!!!! First flight 24 July after DAR on previous day. No major problems--full
throttle and no fairings getting about 157+kts @ 5500 with CHT's 390's
to 420s depending on fuel flows. Oil temp almost 200 on 90+ kt climb out
to 7500 ft in warm/hot Florida afternoon, settled down to 187 at full throttle
and 2450. Tunnel cool. TMX IO-540 with Hartzell prop. Flew straight and
level. Great plane!!
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194960#194960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 40725 is Alive and Flying |
Awesome! Great News. Now, if you could just relax those facial muscles
from smiling so much...! We need the RV Grin Pic!
On Fri, Jul 25, 2008 at 3:36 PM, lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> #40725 flies!!!! First flight 24 July after DAR on previous day. No major
> problems--full throttle and no fairings getting about 157+kts @ 5500 with
> CHT's 390's to 420s depending on fuel flows. Oil temp almost 200 on 90+ kt
> climb out to 7500 ft in warm/hot Florida afternoon, settled down to 187 at
> full throttle and 2450. Tunnel cool. TMX IO-540 with Hartzell prop. Flew
> straight and level. Great plane!!
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194960#194960
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 40725 is Alive and Flying |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Congratulations, Larry!
Wish I were that far. Engine away for rebuild. Airframe finished. Off to OSH
Wed to reqain my motivation.
Phil White 20B rotary to be installed.
--------
RV-10 #40220 in Downers Grove, IL
(windows+doors)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194968#194968
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
Aviation and automotive oils are two different animals altogether. There
was an article in one of the avaition magazines either this month or a month
ago about oils. I'll try to find the article and post, but basicly, unless
you are using a automotive engine (VW) or auto oil is the recommended oil by
the engine manufacturer, aviation oil is the only type to use.
Sorry I can't be more specific. After I read the article, I had a "well
duh" type of reaction and I didn't save it.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 40725 is Alive and Flying |
Congrats to you.....
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "lbgjb10" wrote:
#40725 flies!!!! First flight 24 July after DAR on previous day. No ma
jor problems--full throttle and no fairings getting about 157+kts @ 5500
with CHT's 390's to 420s depending on fuel flows. Oil temp almost 200
on 90+ kt climb out to 7500 ft in warm/hot Florida afternoon, settled d
own to 187 at full throttle and 2450. Tunnel cool. TMX IO-540 with Hart
zell prop. Flew straight and level. Great plane!!
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194960#194960
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
____________________________________________________________
Click for free information on obtaining a second mortgage.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/Ioyw6i4tzQ0Vu3risBCdE2R2v
ZdSVVh5Ng2Y1JfP8TvNNGIv3L83HO/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 40725 is Alive and Flying |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Congratulations on the new born! Enjoy!
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 3:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 40725 is Alive and Flying
#40725 flies!!!! First flight 24 July after DAR on previous day. No major
problems--full throttle and no fairings getting about 157+kts @ 5500 with
CHT's 390's to 420s depending on fuel flows. Oil temp almost 200 on 90+ kt
climb out to 7500 ft in warm/hot Florida afternoon, settled down to 187 at
full throttle and 2450. Tunnel cool. TMX IO-540 with Hartzell prop. Flew
straight and level. Great plane!!
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194960#194960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | going to Osh with FSX |
for those of us not really going here is a substitute if you have FSX.
http://www.fs-mp.com/oshkosh/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
so if you want to use multigrade does it make difference between exxon elite or
aeroshell??? what did sport aviation say??
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194988#194988
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
What can one use to tint white weld on black??
Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
My wife Angie, my friend Randy and myself will be there. Can we bring
anything?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Just give me a call on my cell: 402 651 0402.
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu Jul 24 21:03:37 2008
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Hi Bob
>
> There is a 50/50 chance my daughter and I will be at KOSH in time for some
> BBQ. If we make it, is there a number we can call in advance?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> & Alex
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
> Sent: July-23-08 8:00 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob
> Leffler!
>
> We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the
> every
> arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
> you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
>
> Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
> Scholler.
>
> Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
> run short of food & drink.
>
> Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 OSH Picnic |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
We've got the food covered, just trying to get a count. Thanks for asking though.
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Fri Jul 25 22:12:58 2008
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
My wife Angie, my friend Randy and myself will be there. Can we bring
anything?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Just give me a call on my cell: 402 651 0402.
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu Jul 24 21:03:37 2008
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Hi Bob
>
> There is a 50/50 chance my daughter and I will be at KOSH in time for some
> BBQ. If we make it, is there a number we can call in advance?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> & Alex
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
> Sent: July-23-08 8:00 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 OSH Picnic
>
>
> Time to spend some of generous donation from Steve DiNieri and Bob
> Leffler!
>
> We've decided to kick off the week with a BBQ Saturday evening for the
> every
> arrival crowd. RV-10 builders, flyers and families are all invited. If
> you're a serious wannbe we won't turn you away :)
>
> Let's plan on about 6:00 at RV-10 HQ located at 55th and Lindbergh in Camp
> Scholler.
>
> Please let us know if you'll be able to stop by so we can insure we don't
> run short of food & drink.
>
> Bob, Susan, Gary and Brenda
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194646#194646
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
Sport Aviation, July 2008 (The cover is a picture of white and yellow
Cessna 195), page 102: Engine Oils and Additives
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weld on thoughts and ?s |
I thought about this before gluing my windows in (wow it feels nice to know
I'm just past that).- I bought a tube of black epoxy tint from West Mari
ne for tinting the windshield fairing and sub-filler.=0AFor my windows I co
ntemplated mixing a batch of tinted epoxy and applying it to the glue flang
e around the perimiter of the window plexi, then when it cures, scuff it an
d the weld-on should adhere fine to it.- This way the good black color wo
uld show through instead of being a very dull gray after using tint in the
white Weld-On.- Not to mention that every second longer with the Weld-On
while you mix and tint it is one second you don't have to work with it on t
he plane.=0AMain downside I see to this approach is-that when you squeeze
the bead of Weld-On around the flange it will still be white and need to b
e colored; I had no answer to that.=0AMy final decision was driven by a cou
ple of things.- One, the beads around the windows aren't really beautiful
fillets, so it's not plug and play, which means that there is still extra
work that needs to go into making them look "finished."- On the inside, I
'll use a regular silicone sealer to even up the perimeter unless Abby's in
terior and piping will-cover the inside fillet.- Can anybody vouch for
this?=0ATwo, since it will need more work anyway, I've decided to use that
same double-electrical tape technique as the windshield to add-a layer of
2-4 oz glass around each window to cover the joint, make a better transiti
on to the window, and then paint over it.- I think this approach is close
or the same as other builders.=0A=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0AWindshield=0A=0A--
--- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkm
ail.com>=0ATo: RV 10 =0ASent: Saturday, July 26, 2
008 12:00:25 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Wled on=0A=0A--> RV10-List message po
sted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." =0A=0AWhat can on
===================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | America's Aircraft Engines |
I wanted to tell everyone of my recent outstanding customer service
experience with Americas Aircraft Engines.
I purchased an IO540 for my rv10 in November of 2005 and put about 320
hrs on it since then. My engine developed oil leaks that I could not
easily repair myself.
They offered to pay a local shop to repair the leaks. This cost them
$700+ which they paid without any questions. As it turned out, the
repairs did not cure all of the leaks and they offered to reassemble
the engine without any cost to me at any time.
I agonized over the decision for about a year imagining all kinds of
pit-falls but finally decided to take the offer. On my last vacation
trip to NM, with only two days notice to them, I dropped off the plane.
After opening the cowl, I showed them the leaks and walked away.
Exactly 10 days later (including the 4th of July holiday) I returned
on my way back to Florida to find the engine repaired and installed
back on my plane. I did not have to turn a single wrench!
I feel that I they went beyond my expectations in making the process
painless for me and highly recommend to anyone considering an engine
to at least talk to these guys. Call Richard or Steve Fowler. Their
web address is www.overhaul.com.
Rob Kermanj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net> |
My family and I just got done setting up on the NE corner of 30th and Elm ( tandem
green Jayco popup ). Feel free to stop by for a chat and a cold one. I will
not be able to attend the picnic tonight because of a previous engagement, but
will be around the remainder of of the week.
--------
Tom Ganster 40778 Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195077#195077
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Stop by anytime!
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat Jul 26 14:05:51 2008
Subject: RV10-List: Camp OSH
My family and I just got done setting up on the NE corner of 30th and Elm ( tandem
green Jayco popup ). Feel free to stop by for a chat and a cold one. I will
not be able to attend the picnic tonight because of a previous engagement, but
will be around the remainder of of the week.
--------
Tom Ganster 40778 Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195077#195077
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | rear seat height |
I am designing the rear seats and wonder how thick the bottom and backs
are. Anyone have access to measure your seats quickly for me?
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rear seat height |
I mean the the bottom and backs seat cushions.
Thanks!
Pascal
From: pascal
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 5:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: rear seat height
I am designing the rear seats and wonder how thick the bottom and backs
are. Anyone have access to measure your seats quickly for me?
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
This is good information and seems to reflect exactly what I was wanting to know...
How good is good enough? The original hole was way buggered (just one!).
The new hole is fairly large and at this point it's probably easiest to just live
with a screw/nut and call it a day as riveting this particular hole again could
just make it worse (Murphy is alive and well).
Cheers,
Jay
I think the thread has drifted a little. The NAS1097 is an Oops rivet for
an AN426,
and you were talking about a buggered hole for an AN470A4, right? My choices
would be:
AN470A5-x with a tensile strength of 16,000
AN470AD5-x with a tensile strength of 38,000
#8 screw with a tensile strength of 60,000
AN3-x with a tensile strength of 125,000
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195127#195127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rear seat height |
Pascal
My seats are Classic Aero. The seat backs are 4 1/2" thick at the sides
and 3" in the center section. The seat bottoms are 4" at the sides and
3" center section.
Deems
heading for the airport and OSH '08
pascal wrote:
> I am designing the rear seats and wonder how thick the bottom and
> backs are. Anyone have access to measure your seats quickly for me?
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I bought my kit from another builder and couldn't find the hinges
either. He assured me that everything he had ... I had. I just ordered
new hinge from Vans. You only need long enough hinge for one side since
you're going to separate them!
One interesting observation ..... the hinges attached to the QB fuselage
have the center eyelets cut out so pins can be inserted from the center
of the seat ..... in the RV-10, you can use a single pin for each seat
and don't need to remove the center eyelets. I didn't see any reason to
remove the eyelets on the hinge attached to the seat back ..... so I didn't.
Linn
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I am making the rear seats for my QB fuse. Half the hinges were
> fabricated and installed on the floors. Are the matching halves in
> the kit somewhere or do I make them from supplied hinge stock? (Can't
> find matching halves.)
>
> Anyone? Anyone?
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rear seat height |
As Always, Thanks Deems!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rear seat height
>
> Pascal
>
> My seats are Classic Aero. The seat backs are 4 1/2" thick at the sides
> and 3" in the center section. The seat bottoms are 4" at the sides and
> 3" center section.
>
> Deems
>
> heading for the airport and OSH '08
>
> pascal wrote:
>> I am designing the rear seats and wonder how thick the bottom and
>> backs are. Anyone have access to measure your seats quickly for me?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Pascal
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE - RV10 Quickbuild Kit |
Due to medical condition and financial situation, I am selling my Van's
Aircraft RV-10 quickbuild kit consisting of the empennage, wing, and
fuselage kits. I've only started on the tail kit with minimal work
being done on parts preparation without any assembly. Extras included
are the landing light kit, float fuel sending units, and flap
positioning system.
Also, available is a brand new pneumatic rivet squeezer.
Cost over $40,000. Asking $38,000.
Please contact me off list at 540-774-0387 or email av8or(at)cox.net
Located in SW VA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
I saw the one tip about the reverse sanding block for the windshield fairin
g.- What are others using for the 7" radius sanding block?=0ARob=0A392=0A
Windshield Fairing=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
n212pj(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
>
> Tim James, did not add bush tires to an RV-10, period, nor did I say such.
> His use of the C206 gear and larger tires, as well as GlaStar type winglets,
> VG's, etc. was to purposefully enhance the -10 for short, rough field use.
> Those mods are for Tim something that makes the already good plane more
> useful for his needs.
> John J
>
> --
John,
Does Tim James have a log site or do you know how to get in touch? His mod's
are ones I would be interested in (minus the roll cage). My favorite 4 place
designs are the the rv10 and the Bearhawk. I think he found a way to make the
10 more utilitarian. Would love to find out more about the 206 gear and VG
mods. I always thought the 10 could support some rugged bush flying with some
gear reinforcement.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195285#195285
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Proofing Fuel Tank Sender |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
John Goodman has it correct. Bolt or 470-AD5-x rivets. Spruce sells some of the
#5 rivets - I bought a few (470-AD-5-6 ) and the #5 set to fix the buggered holes
in my SB work. About 10-12 bucks - not too bad to set. I used the same 60#
of air pressure that I used on the #4 rivets and whacked a few extra times.
I think that we hit it 12-15 times. We sill screwed up one mfg head, but decided
not to drill it out as it is soooo much stronger than the #4. Cheap piece of
mind.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195315#195315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
If exposed to sunlight, might the black toner possibly overheat the plexi causing
problems similar to Dave's
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195316#195316
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Onsite at OSH 2008 - First 2 RV-10's arrive! |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Tim,
We're trying to decide about paint schemes, so this is great timing! Beautiful
jobs, great pics, next best thing to being there.
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195328#195328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Movement of Fuel Sender ? |
I'm installing the fuel senders (Stewart Warner) and am concerned with the amount
of play in plastic attachment (where the sender arm slides in) There is an
extreme amount of play to the point that I'm concerned the float won't line up
properly. The float wants to swing freely around the bracket. Is this normal?
or should the float be more secure and have no movement in the plastic bracket?
My question is, should I add a small amount of proseal to keep the float arm
secure in the bracket?. See photo for better visual explanation.
I have QB wings and do not have a lot of room to "see" where the floats range of
motion is.
john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Movement of Fuel Sender ? |
Be very careful when bending the end. You will need to make a right and left part.
The instructions are not really clear on this point. Also make sure you
are installing the arms in the proper sender. They too are numbered for Left
/ Right.
Jim C
===========================================================
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 2008/07/28 Mon PM 01:07:19 EDT
Subject: RV10-List: Movement of Fuel Sender ?
I'm installing the fuel senders (Stewart Warner) and am concerned with the amount
of play in plastic attachment (where the sender arm slides in) There is an
extreme amount of play to the point that I'm concerned the float won't line up
properly. The float wants to swing freely around the bracket. Is this normal?
or should the float be more secure and have no movement in the plastic bracket?
My question is, should I add a small amount of proseal to keep the float arm
secure in the bracket?. See photo for better visual explanation.
I have QB wings and do not have a lot of room to "see" where the floats range of
motion is.
john
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Movement of Fuel Sender ? |
The metal arm at the sender end of the float should have a bend in it. The bend
goes through the hole in the base of the plastic arm to prevent the swivel as
you have described it.
It would appear you have cut the arm a little short at this point.
Jim C
40192 - Finishing
===========================================================
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 2008/07/28 Mon PM 01:07:19 EDT
Subject: RV10-List: Movement of Fuel Sender ?
I'm installing the fuel senders (Stewart Warner) and am concerned with the amount
of play in plastic attachment (where the sender arm slides in) There is an
extreme amount of play to the point that I'm concerned the float won't line up
properly. The float wants to swing freely around the bracket. Is this normal?
or should the float be more secure and have no movement in the plastic bracket?
My question is, should I add a small amount of proseal to keep the float arm
secure in the bracket?. See photo for better visual explanation.
I have QB wings and do not have a lot of room to "see" where the floats range of
motion is.
john
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Movement of Fuel Sender ? |
John,
With the last bend going through the sender, it shouldn't rotate at all. You shouldn't
need anything to keep it in place without rotating. It looks like you
have it in past where the clips engage so I think that part is OK - but it shouldn't
rotate - not nohow, not noway as the saying goes.
I bought a spare access panel and cut out a part of it so I could see inside to
make sure the float ranges line up correctly. I was able to put the 1/8" spacer
under the float and see where it barely touches - then turn the entire mess
upside down for the full range. This also allowed me to determine that the float
was catching on one of the reinforcing angles inside - so I could turn it
around...
I don't know the part number in a -10 and it may be the same as for my 6A. If you
have QB-type tanks - there's no easy way to line them up.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Jul 28, 2008 1:07 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Movement of Fuel Sender ?
>
>I'm installing the fuel senders (Stewart Warner) and am concerned with the amount
of play in plastic attachment (where the sender arm slides in) There is an
extreme amount of play to the point that I'm concerned the float won't line up
properly. The float wants to swing freely around the bracket. Is this normal?
or should the float be more secure and have no movement in the plastic bracket?
My question is, should I add a small amount of proseal to keep the float arm
secure in the bracket?. See photo for better visual explanation.
>
>I have QB wings and do not have a lot of room to "see" where the floats range
of motion is.
>
>john
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Onsite at OSH 2008 - First 2 RV-10's arrive! |
| From: | "dherring10" <dherring10(at)suddenlink.net> |
Tim,
Thanks for the updates and pictures, wish I was there to go flying with you and
Scott like we did last year. Lana and I have been moving to a new house so that
has put a damper on my flying and building for the last few weeks. Keep the
updates coming and tell Scott that if he will hold his mouth differently while
he is playing Guitar Hero he will probably do better. Ha!
Keep having fun for all of us.
Dwayne Herring
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195376#195376
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Movement of Fuel Sender ? |
The issue is the 90 degree bend needs to have a longer arm to it. Forget
any other option, you'll need to assure the "L" actually is a L and not
an "I" with a little bend to it.
Pascal
From: John Hurst
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 10:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Movement of Fuel Sender ?
I'm installing the fuel senders (Stewart Warner) and am concerned with
the amount of play in plastic attachment (where the sender arm slides
in) There is an extreme amount of play to the point that I'm concerned
the float won't line up properly. The float wants to swing freely around
the bracket. Is this normal? or should the float be more secure and have
no movement in the plastic bracket? My question is, should I add a small
amount of proseal to keep the float arm secure in the bracket?. See
photo for better visual explanation.
I have QB wings and do not have a lot of room to "see" where the floats
range of motion is.
john
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be Tues
evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is simply to provide
a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to get together, put faces
to names, make new friends and exchange ideas. Builders, "almost builders"
and others with an interest are welcome. There are also usually at least a
couple of vendors that show up so you can pick their brains.
We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc. As mentioned
before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs and shade
this year so it's a great way to end the day!
Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got something you'd
like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The only thing we ask
is that you consider a contribution to help defray costs so that we can continue.
We'll have a basket out for those that would like to donate but no specific
amount is requested, just whatever you feel it's worth or would like to give.
I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot dogs. Not
sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold drinks. Kids are
welcome and several people brought theirs camping this year.
We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs parallel to
Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is just south of the
Hangar B gate.
If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so that
we can insure enough food and drink.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sb 08-6-1: What's the equivalent of an AN470 rivet? |
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
I was able to scrounge a small handfull of AN470AD5 from my local A&P at the airport
just for the asking. I just cut to the length I need.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195398#195398
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 project for sale |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
They say all good things must come to an end. Im not sure I really believe that,
but my RV10 project must. Do to major changes in life I must release my project
to a new home. I have the empennage done with Vic style electric rudder trim,
and attached to the quick build fuselage, along with several interior components.
I have quick build wings with one wing rigged. In addition to the airframe
I have a finishing kit (minus the cowl, as I was going with a James cowl),
several misc. parts (strobe controller, ELT, antennas, wire, etc.), all of which
must go, even my tools.
The project is located at Falcon Field in Mesa, AZ.
Wont take the time or space to list everything or prices here, but if interested
please contact me offline at paulevenda(at)mac.com.
Thanks all and enjoy your projects!
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195427#195427
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Bob: Arriving Wed midday. Pls count me in for Friday nite feast. If anyone has
extra space where I can pitch my small tent + park a small car, I'd love to
be with the gang instead of in left field.
Phil White #40220 airframe done, Mazda engine not yet :)
--------
RV-10 #40220 in Downers Grove, IL
(windows+doors)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195430#195430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
Bob, also arriving Wednesday.... commercial flight into Chicago at 0'dark 3
0, should be in Osh by noon.- Count us in for 4 on Friday.- Thanks
Don McDonald - #40636- Finishing the finishing.
--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Phil White wrote:
From: Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 3:59 PM
Bob: Arriving Wed midday. Pls count me in for Friday nite feast. If anyo
ne
has extra space where I can pitch my small tent + park a small car, I'd
love to be with the gang instead of in left field.
Phil White #40220 airframe done, Mazda engine not yet :)
--------
RV-10 #40220 in Downers Grove, IL
(windows+doors)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195430#195430
============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Phil,
We just gave up the space at the end of our site tonight to somebody else that
didn't have reservations. Schedules seem to be changing daily, maybe somebody
will chime in.
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon Jul 28 15:59:31 2008
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
Bob: Arriving Wed midday. Pls count me in for Friday nite feast. If anyone has
extra space where I can pitch my small tent + park a small car, I'd love to
be with the gang instead of in left field.
Phil White #40220 airframe done, Mazda engine not yet :)
--------
RV-10 #40220 in Downers Grove, IL
(windows+doors)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195430#195430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EFDsteve(at)AOL.COM |
This problem happened to me as well. The fix wasn't too bad.
The end of the fuel tank was bent in, and the end bulkhead was deformed to
the point that there was a gap between it and the skin. So I ordered a new
T-1003C from Van's, and I drilled out all of the rivets from the old, deformed
T-1003C. I then drilled a large hole in the center of it and began removing
it with a small vice grip pliers. The old bulkhead basically broke into
small pieces when I did this, but it eventually did all come out. I removed the
old pro-seal from the skin and the T-1005 bracket with a plastic scraper and
a serrated plastic knife and cleaned the surfaces with MEK.
When I received the new part, I traced it out on a piece of 2x4 and cut out
a piece of wood of the same shape. I inserted the wood into the fuel tank
and used it as a backer as I gently tapped the skin back into shape with a
hammer. I then removed the wood, applied a generous amount of pro-seal, and
riveted the new T-1003C in place.
Good luck. I thought at the time that I probably wasn't the only one that
would have this problem. Needed to clamp the wing spar to the wing cradle
better.
Steve Weinstock
40230 Fuse
**************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Patrick;
I followed Tim's insight and used proseal around the gasket. I have
heard of many other options as many mentioned the difficulty of removing
it later, if needed.
July 14, 2008 - July 29, 2008
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dn