RV10-Archive.digest.vol-do
July 29, 2008 - August 12, 2008
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041107/RV200411060023.html
I figure if Proseal is used for the whole tank it should work fine for
the gasket.
Pascal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Patrick Pulis
Sent: Tuesday, 29 July 2008 11:37 AM
To: 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com'
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
According to the installation instruction supplied with the stock
standard fuel tank sender supplied by Vans, it is recommended that the
supplied neoprene gasket be installed between the tank wall and the
sender unit (and replaced if the sender is ever removed for
inspection/replacement).
Other than the recommendation to use the gasket, there are no specific
instructions as to the use (or otherwise) of any fuel proofing compound
(e.g. - Proseal) to leak proof the installation of the float sender
unit.
I have elected to use sealed nut plates (in lieu of the Vans standard)
to attach the fuel tank sender to the tank, so I only need to seal the
contact area between the sender unit face and the tank rib.
From the various photos that I have seen, other builders have used
Proseal to leak proof the sender to the tank, and thus this appears to
be the way to go.
Could anyone please confirm my assumptions regarding the application
of proseal to achieve a fuel/leak proof seal at this location, coupled
with confirming (or otherwise) the use of the supplied gasket.
Your thoughts would be very much appreciated please.
Regards
Patrick, RV-10 #40299, South Australia
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
We just finished an expansion of the shade/rain protection at RV-10 HQ thanks to
Tony D's addition. We now have 600 sq ft (in addition to the camper buit-in
awnings) with another 100 sq ft on standby if we need it Any rain tonight shouldn't
be a problem!
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon Jul 28 12:37:48 2008
Subject: RV10-List: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be Tues
evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is simply to provide
a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to get together, put faces
to names, make new friends and exchange ideas. Builders, "almost builders"
and others with an interest are welcome. There are also usually at least a
couple of vendors that show up so you can pick their brains.
We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc. As mentioned
before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs and shade
this year so it's a great way to end the day!
Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got something you'd
like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The only thing we ask
is that you consider a contribution to help defray costs so that we can continue.
We'll have a basket out for those that would like to donate but no specific
amount is requested, just whatever you feel it's worth or would like to give.
I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot dogs. Not
sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold drinks. Kids are
welcome and several people brought theirs camping this year.
We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs parallel to
Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is just south of the
Hangar B gate.
If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so that
we can insure enough food and drink.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denis Clegg" <denisclegg(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 project for sale |
What are you asking for it?
----- Original Message -----
From: "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 2:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 project for sale
>
> They say all good things must come to an end. I?Tm not sure I really
> believe that, but my RV10 project must. Do to major changes in life I must
> release my project to a new home. I have the empennage done with Vic style
> electric rudder trim, and attached to the quick build fuselage, along with
> several interior components. I have quick build wings with one wing
> rigged. In addition to the airframe I have a finishing kit (minus the
> cowl, as I was going with a James cowl), several misc. parts (strobe
> controller, ELT, antennas, wire, etc.), all of which must go, even my
> tools.
>
> The project is located at Falcon Field in Mesa, AZ.
>
> Won?Tt take the time or space to list everything or prices here, but if
> interested please contact me offline at paulevenda(at)mac.com.
>
> Thanks all and enjoy your projects!
>
> --------
> Paul Levenda
> #40090
> N974LV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195427#195427
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 project for sale |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
The Empennage/tailcone are attached to the fuse, so for this whole section I am
requesting $22,000. For the QB wings we are looking at about 7,000. The finishing
kit - 10,500. I would do all together for 38K.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195605#195605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Just finished inspecting the re installation of controls on N46007. Painting here
in Mena is complete and the crew is getting it ready for my departure. If all
goes well tomorrow , I will arrive OSH first aircraft at 0700 Thursday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Who in Mena did the paint?
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue Jul 29 15:18:39 2008
Subject: RV10-List: OSH arrival
Just finished inspecting the re installation of controls on N46007. Painting here
in Mena is complete and the crew is getting it ready for my departure. If all
goes well tomorrow , I will arrive OSH first aircraft at 0700 Thursday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Goodner Crider, the old Goodner brothers shop of last 20+ years. I understand there
are about six paint shops on the field now; some started when Junior Goodner
sold out to Crider. Some Goodners also started other shops on the field.
---- "Condrey wrote:
>
> Who in Mena did the paint?
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tue Jul 29 15:18:39 2008
> Subject: RV10-List: OSH arrival
>
>
> Just finished inspecting the re installation of controls on N46007. Painting
here in Mena is complete and the crew is getting it ready for my departure. If
all goes well tomorrow , I will arrive OSH first aircraft at 0700 Thursday.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
OK, Thane sent me the seatbelt countersink yesterday and I just did ours, so it
will go in tomorrow's mail to Don, then Pascal.
By the way, we had a heck of a time finding the bolts we had tucked away so we'd
remember where they were -- if I remember correctly they were in bag 1541 "miscellaneous".
I HATE wasting time looking for stuff that has vaporized!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195642#195642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Don & Pascal
Could you put me in line for the countersink?
Dr. Fred
40515
Finishing doors and windows.
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, Thane sent me the seatbelt countersink yesterday and I just did ours, so
it will go in tomorrow's mail to Don, then Pascal.
>
> By the way, we had a heck of a time finding the bolts we had tucked away so we'd
remember where they were -- if I remember correctly they were in bag 1541
"miscellaneous". I HATE wasting time looking for stuff that has vaporized!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195642#195642
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
Count me in for Friday evening. I did not get around to checking my
email until tonight and thus missed this evening. I arrived Monday and
was amazed by the number of 10s on the field. Have spent some time
looking them over. I will try to stop over tomorrow to say hello to
whoever is there. I have found a number of forums to be worthwhile.
Dave
bcondrey wrote:
>
> We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be Tues
evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is simply to provide
a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to get together, put
faces to names, make new friends and exchange ideas. Builders, "almost builders"
and others with an interest are welcome. There are also usually at least
a couple of vendors that show up so you can pick their brains.
>
> We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc. As
mentioned before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs and shade
this year so it's a great way to end the day!
>
> Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got something you'd
like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The only thing we ask
is that you consider a contribution to help defray costs so that we can continue.
We'll have a basket out for those that would like to donate but no specific
amount is requested, just whatever you feel it's worth or would like to give.
>
> I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot dogs.
Not sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold drinks. Kids are
welcome and several people brought theirs camping this year.
>
> We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs parallel
to Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is just south of the
Hangar B gate.
>
> If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so that
we can insure enough food and drink.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
>
>
>
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
Professor, Retired
Penn State
E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
Bob,
Just a quick note to Gary, Neil, and you for the hospitality and bever
ages during our breif stay at OSH this year. It is great to have friend
s that take the measures you all do to make it an enjoyable ADVENTURE.
We left early this AM to head home as my mom was critically ill in her
battle with lung cancer. At 9:30 this morning she went to heaven to be
with her Lord. The kids and I made it to SD to be with my family quick
ly thanks to a great RV-10.
Dean 805HL
____________________________________________________________
Save on Emergency Alert Systems. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iiexRVJuoUxB6zcbMKTTCoD
aTExAkcUnKNMLsJT4oOkKNcugk/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Campsite |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
The revised traveling countersink list is now:
8 ) Don
9) Fred
10) Pascal
Then back to me (hopefully someday I'll have a canopy) since John has abdicated
his parental rights!
Let me know if others want in on this -- it still works really well, may be getting
duller than new, but then I have nothing to compare it to.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195713#195713
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Patrick,
By chance, I happen to have done the Van's service bulletin on my RV-7A last weekend
that applies a safety wire to the fuel pickup in each tank. To do this
one has to remove the fuel tank access plates, which are essentially identical
to the ones on the inboard tank rib of the RV-10. I had done a little 'randomized'
experiment by using Van's cork gasket on one side, sealed with ProSeal,
and on the other side I just used ProSeal without any cork gasket, as was recommended
by Gary Sobek, my Tech Counselor at the time. The -7A is a bit over
three years old, and here is what I can report: both the ProSeal-only and the
ProSeal-applied to cork gasket work fine to hold the fuel in the tank with no
leaks. Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork
is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover
plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only
side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, and required sliding a single
edge razor blade between the bonded surfaces most of the way around the circumference
of the cover plate. However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier
to clean up using a razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of future maintenance.
Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
Hope this helps,
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
RV-7A N747DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jonathan Bryant" <bryantje(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
Dear Bob,
Jonathan and Vicky Bryant, new builders from Chapel Hill, NC, will love to
come by on Friday evening.
See you there,
----- Original Message -----
From: "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
>
>
> Count me in for Friday evening. I did not get around to checking my email
> until tonight and thus missed this evening. I arrived Monday and was
> amazed by the number of 10s on the field. Have spent some time looking
> them over. I will try to stop over tomorrow to say hello to whoever is
> there. I have found a number of forums to be worthwhile.
>
> Dave
>
> bcondrey wrote:
>>
>> We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be
>> Tues evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is
>> simply to provide a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to
>> get together, put faces to names, make new friends and exchange ideas.
>> Builders, "almost builders" and others with an interest are welcome.
>> There are also usually at least a couple of vendors that show up so you
>> can pick their brains.
>>
>> We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc.
>> As mentioned before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs
>> and shade this year so it's a great way to end the day!
>>
>> Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got
>> something you'd like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The
>> only thing we ask is that you consider a contribution to help defray
>> costs so that we can continue. We'll have a basket out for those that
>> would like to donate but no specific amount is requested, just whatever
>> you feel it's worth or would like to give.
>>
>> I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot
>> dogs. Not sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold
>> drinks. Kids are welcome and several people brought theirs camping this
>> year.
>>
>> We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs
>> parallel to Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is
>> just south of the Hangar B gate.
>>
>> If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so
>> that we can insure enough food and drink.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> Professor, Retired
> Penn State
> E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Wik" <jaycwik(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
Please add Jason and Jay Wik from Fergus Falls MN for Friday
Thanks!
On 7/30/08, Jonathan Bryant wrote:
>
> Dear Bob,
>
> Jonathan and Vicky Bryant, new builders from Chapel Hill, NC, will love to
> come by on Friday evening.
>
> See you there,
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 10:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
>
>
>>
>>
>> Count me in for Friday evening. I did not get around to checking my email
>>
>> until tonight and thus missed this evening. I arrived Monday and was
>> amazed by the number of 10s on the field. Have spent some time looking
>> them over. I will try to stop over tomorrow to say hello to whoever is
>> there. I have found a number of forums to be worthwhile.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> bcondrey wrote:
>>>
>>> We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be
>>>
>>> Tues evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is
>>> simply to provide a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to
>>>
>>> get together, put faces to names, make new friends and exchange ideas.
>>> Builders, "almost builders" and others with an interest are welcome.
>>> There are also usually at least a couple of vendors that show up so you
>>> can pick their brains.
>>>
>>> We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc.
>>>
>>> As mentioned before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs
>>> and shade this year so it's a great way to end the day!
>>>
>>> Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got
>>> something you'd like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The
>>>
>>> only thing we ask is that you consider a contribution to help defray
>>> costs so that we can continue. We'll have a basket out for those that
>>> would like to donate but no specific amount is requested, just whatever
>>> you feel it's worth or would like to give.
>>>
>>> I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot
>>> dogs. Not sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold
>>> drinks. Kids are welcome and several people brought theirs camping this
>>> year.
>>>
>>> We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs
>>> parallel to Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is
>>> just south of the Hangar B gate.
>>>
>>> If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so
>>>
>>> that we can insure enough food and drink.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> Dave Fritzsche
>> Professor, Retired
>> Penn State
>> E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Wik" <jaycwik(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers |
Please add Jason and Jay Wik from Fergus Falls MN for Friday
Thanks!
On 7/30/08, Jonathan Bryant wrote:
>
> Dear Bob,
>
> Jonathan and Vicky Bryant, new builders from Chapel Hill, NC, will love to
> come by on Friday evening.
>
> See you there,
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 10:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tues & Friday Night OSH RV-10 Get Togethers
>
>
>>
>>
>> Count me in for Friday evening. I did not get around to checking my email
>>
>> until tonight and thus missed this evening. I arrived Monday and was
>> amazed by the number of 10s on the field. Have spent some time looking
>> them over. I will try to stop over tomorrow to say hello to whoever is
>> there. I have found a number of forums to be worthwhile.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> bcondrey wrote:
>>>
>>> We are going to have 2 more large cookouts up here at OSH. First will be
>>>
>>> Tues evening and second will be Friday, both at 6:00 PM. Intent is
>>> simply to provide a social environment for our like minded RV-10 group to
>>>
>>> get together, put faces to names, make new friends and exchange ideas.
>>> Builders, "almost builders" and others with an interest are welcome.
>>> There are also usually at least a couple of vendors that show up so you
>>> can pick their brains.
>>>
>>> We will take care of the logistics of getting the supplies, cooking, etc.
>>>
>>> As mentioned before we have a large open area with picnic tables, chairs
>>> and shade this year so it's a great way to end the day!
>>>
>>> Many people have asked what they can do or bring. If you've got
>>> something you'd like to share with the group, by all means bring it! The
>>>
>>> only thing we ask is that you consider a contribution to help defray
>>> costs so that we can continue. We'll have a basket out for those that
>>> would like to donate but no specific amount is requested, just whatever
>>> you feel it's worth or would like to give.
>>>
>>> I'm told that Tuesday night's menu will likely be brats and maybe hot
>>> dogs. Not sure of side dishes, but there will also be plenty of cold
>>> drinks. Kids are welcome and several people brought theirs camping this
>>> year.
>>>
>>> We're still located at 55th & Lindbergh in Camp Scholler. 55th runs
>>> parallel to Knapp St (main N/S street at Air Venture) and Lindbergh is
>>> just south of the Hangar B gate.
>>>
>>> If you're coming and not part of the camping group, please let me know so
>>>
>>> that we can insure enough food and drink.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195397#195397
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>> Dave Fritzsche
>> Professor, Retired
>> Penn State
>> E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
Thanks Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Masys [mailto:dmasys(at)cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2008 9:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
Patrick,
By chance, I happen to have done the Van's service bulletin on my RV-7A
last weekend that applies a safety wire to the fuel pickup in each tank.
To do this one has to remove the fuel tank access plates, which are
essentially identical to the ones on the inboard tank rib of the RV-10.
I had done a little 'randomized' experiment by using Van's cork gasket
on one side, sealed with ProSeal, and on the other side I just used
ProSeal without any cork gasket, as was recommended by Gary Sobek, my
Tech Counselor at the time. The -7A is a bit over three years old, and
here is what I can report: both the ProSeal-only and the
ProSeal-applied to cork gasket work fine to hold the fuel in the tank
with no leaks. Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier,
since the cork is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the
pieces and the cover plate pried away and popped loose without much
difficulty. The ProSeal only side was quite a bit more difficult to
break loose, !
and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover plate.
However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a
razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
Hope this helps,
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
RV-7A N747DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Just goes to show that no design is perfect. Even the certified Cirrus SR-20/20
suffer from in flight door separation.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/DDEEEEC85C93EEEE862574820052610D?OpenDocument
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
I bought the 90 deg filter adapter with 1.5" spacer from vans and not having a
good day installing.
First I have to remove one of the original oil filter mounting studs and tried
the "jam nuts" method of removal (two nuts tightened against each other) without
success, but I was successful in twisting half the stud off.
Now I'm going to have to purchase an angle drill and use a bolt extractor. Sure
hope this method works, sure hate to have to remove the engine. Any one provide
any encouraging words on this exercise?
Secondly, the adapter + spacing isn't a perfect fit. Looks like at least the breather
tube has to be removed to remove the oil filter, hopefully the oil cooler
hose can be pushed out of the way. Has anyone else noticed this who installed
the oil filter adapter?
Not sure it's worth the effort.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195949#195949
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Onsite at OSH 2008 - First 2 RV-10's arrive! |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim,
Great photos! I'm looking at paint jobs as well, so keep 'em coming. On your web
post you made the following comment:
"Other than RV-10 photos, I took nothing today, so below are some photos my daughter
took. If I could only get her to write web stuff, I could finally retire.
:) (Actually, something tells me I'm not going to have a problem getting her
to write web stuff. She's keeping an Oshkosh journal, so maybe I'll have her
transpose it into HTML for everyone so that your kids can read)"
Why just our kids? Maybe she's a better reporter than you...........
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195957#195957
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator rear spar |
| From: | "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net> |
Hi folks,
First post on here. I had a sleepless night last night because I just can't figure
out what I did wrong.
I am at the point of riveting the rear spar and found that after riveting the ribs
to the rear spar, the flange holes and the skin holes don't line up anymore.
I don't know if the riveting of the ribs to the spar caused the 90 degree
angle between the rib and spar to open up a little. That is all I can figure.
The rivets connecting the ribs to the spar came out real nice. I can get all
the clecos in but since the hole is a little larger than the cleco the skin
is still not lined up just right. There is enough of a misalignment that if I
try to rivet it I get a bad squeeze. Some bend over and must be replaced and
the ones that don't bend seem to be off center of the hole but with a descent
shop head.
If I put a punch in it and try to pry it simultaneously to squeezing the adjacent
hole I feel I will damage the holes as I go. Am I wrong? Can this be done?
Is there any sort of tool stronger than a cleco that can hold it straight?
I am drawing a blank and don't want to screw it up to the point of having to
start the elevator over.
Thanks for any ideas. I actually had an hour in the middle of the night where
I was going to bag the whole project. Boy I get worked up when I don't know what
went wrong or how to fix it.
Thanks again in advance,
Bill Cannon
RV10 Elevator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195991#195991
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator rear spar |
Bill;
First of all don't give up. I hear the grin at the end is worth every
sleepless night.
Second. One of the basic rules of assembly is that if it is too hard to
put the clecoes in, something is reversed or in the wrong position.
Are the flanges upside down? Have you matched drilled everything? I
found a number 40 reamer from Avery helped the ease of alignment. It
makes for a rounder hole than a regular drill bit.
I do remember having some difficulty at the "nose" or leading edge. I
hadn't rounded off the tabs as well as I could have.
Again, if you are having that kind of trouble, something is reversed.
Re- look at the parts and the part order.
Fred Williams
40515
903 491 5207 cell.
Bill Cannon wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> First post on here. I had a sleepless night last night because I just can't
figure out what I did wrong.
>
> I am at the point of riveting the rear spar and found that after riveting the
ribs to the rear spar, the flange holes and the skin holes don't line up anymore.
I don't know if the riveting of the ribs to the spar caused the 90 degree
angle between the rib and spar to open up a little. That is all I can figure.
The rivets connecting the ribs to the spar came out real nice. I can get
all the clecos in but since the hole is a little larger than the cleco the skin
is still not lined up just right. There is enough of a misalignment that if
I try to rivet it I get a bad squeeze. Some bend over and must be replaced and
the ones that don't bend seem to be off center of the hole but with a descent
shop head.
>
> If I put a punch in it and try to pry it simultaneously to squeezing the adjacent
hole I feel I will damage the holes as I go. Am I wrong? Can this be done?
Is there any sort of tool stronger than a cleco that can hold it straight?
I am drawing a blank and don't want to screw it up to the point of having to
start the elevator over.
>
> Thanks for any ideas. I actually had an hour in the middle of the night where
I was going to bag the whole project. Boy I get worked up when I don't know
what went wrong or how to fix it.
>
> Thanks again in advance,
>
> Bill Cannon
> RV10 Elevator
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195991#195991
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator rear spar |
Bill;
I don't recall there being a alignment issue when I did the elevators. I do
recall however that there were times throughout the build that I put the
left side on the right side or I had the piece in upside down initially and
that resulting in misalignment. The good news is that the holes are very
precise in the kits so if it doesn't fit initially than something is
backwards. If you already match drilled everything than for sure it should
be right and the pieces should line right up. I don't know specifically
where you are doing this under Section 9 but a good reference is John
Jensen's site
http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Empennage/Elevators/Elevators.htm
and Mike rowe's http://www.etigerrr.com/RV10HomePage.htm#Elevators for what
they did at this point. use these sites for the rest of the Empennage as
reference as well for "gotchas".
Don't force it with anything to make it right, it wont be in the end, the
empennage kit is much easier than the following kits when it comes to steps
so assure you review the plans again to make sure your not missing a piece
or other. Also don't be afraid to call Van's for support, there are horror
stories that there are those who make one seem doubt when you call them but
my experience has always been one of helpfulness and guidance even if there
is that occasional attitude sometimes and you may find they know what your
are dealing with.
As far as losing hope and giving up, we all go through that. I recall losing
some important time of my life pondering steps I completely messed up.. In
time I realized that it really wasn't as big a deal as I initially thought.
I got advice and fixed it. It will always be a challenge in the steps you
take to make this RV-10 but at the end of each section I always remind
myself that it actually turned out nicely.
You may find that your misalignment can be easily rectified when you know
why it's like this. Try Van's if you don't get the response your looking
for.
Lastly, if something isn't going well, walk away and come back to it later.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator rear spar
>
> Hi folks,
>
> First post on here. I had a sleepless night last night because I just
> can't figure out what I did wrong.
>
> I am at the point of riveting the rear spar and found that after riveting
> the ribs to the rear spar, the flange holes and the skin holes don't line
> up anymore. I don't know if the riveting of the ribs to the spar caused
> the 90 degree angle between the rib and spar to open up a little. That is
> all I can figure. The rivets connecting the ribs to the spar came out
> real nice. I can get all the clecos in but since the hole is a little
> larger than the cleco the skin is still not lined up just right. There is
> enough of a misalignment that if I try to rivet it I get a bad squeeze.
> Some bend over and must be replaced and the ones that don't bend seem to
> be off center of the hole but with a descent shop head.
>
> If I put a punch in it and try to pry it simultaneously to squeezing the
> adjacent hole I feel I will damage the holes as I go. Am I wrong? Can
> this be done? Is there any sort of tool stronger than a cleco that can
> hold it straight? I am drawing a blank and don't want to screw it up to
> the point of having to start the elevator over.
>
> Thanks for any ideas. I actually had an hour in the middle of the night
> where I was going to bag the whole project. Boy I get worked up when I
> don't know what went wrong or how to fix it.
>
> Thanks again in advance,
>
> Bill Cannon
> RV10 Elevator
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195991#195991
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Bob
I would like to thank you for hosting the RV10 Campsite. The few days I
was in KOSH were made all the more fun by being able to sit and chat
with other RV10 fanatics. It was great being able to put faces to the
names I kept seeing on the list and this was all possible to your
organizational skills.
Cheers
Les =9Csome assembly required=9D Kearney
~,=03g=D3=93
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | engine- when to buy |
Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the engine?
Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything seems to be
coming together and wonder if I should be getting it soon with the delay
in ultimately receiving it.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
If I recall correctly most engine builders, including Lycoming/Vans
have 1-3 month lead times for ordering an engine. You should contact
your short list of builders for lead times and current quotes to get
your timing right.
On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 2:51 PM, pascal wrote:
> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the engine?
> Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything seems to be
> coming together and wonder if I should be getting it soon with the delay in
> ultimately receiving it.
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | N104BS is painted! |
Just brought home my airplane today from GLO Custom. I'm really happy
with the quality of their work!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
59.5 hours (and no, I haven't completed the SB yet! >:o )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | N104BS is painted! |
Beautiful!!!!!
Congrats on great looking airplane, well done!
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N104BS is painted!
Just brought home my airplane today from GLO Custom. I'm really happy with
the quality of their work!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
59.5 hours (and no, I haven't completed the SB yet! >:o )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
I just took delivery of my Lycoming ...through Vans. I don't think
they're going to be cheaper in the future so I bought mine after
Sun-n-fun. It's sealed in a heavy plastic bag with dessicant in it
..... so there's not much going to happen while it waits for you to get
to the 'needing' part.
Linn
pascal wrote:
> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the
> engine? Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything
> seems to be coming together and wonder if I should be getting it soon
> with the delay in ultimately receiving it.
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
>
> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
> Date: 2008/08/01 Fri PM 04:51:12 EST
> To: "rv10-list"
> Subject: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>
> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the engine? Looking
to delay as much as possible but lately everything seems to be coming together
and wonder if I should be getting it soon with the delay in ultimately receiving
it.
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
I've been struggling with the same decision. Especially since Van's/Lycoming announced
their most recent sale. I don't need it until the spring, but the debate
is whether or not the economy will cause the price to be higher or lower
next spring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator rear spar |
| From: | "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net> |
Thanks a bunch guys. I feel a little better today from reading these as well as
a visit from a friend with an 8. We looked it over and he had some ideas.
He is going to come over next week and we'll get it done right. I rechecked the
parts and position and it is correct. What I didn't do I think is put enough
clecos in the spar/skin when riveting the ribs to the spar. My friend thinks
this allowed some movement in one/some of the rib angles that attach to the
spar. We will carefully fix it. From now on a cleco goes in every hole available.
I should have done that to begin with. I hope that was it. Always a
dumb mistake. Have to mitigate those.
Thanks again,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196115#196115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
yep, same dilemma.
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>
>
>>
>> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
>> Date: 2008/08/01 Fri PM 04:51:12 EST
>> To: "rv10-list"
>> Subject: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>>
>> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the engine?
>> Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything seems to be
>> coming together and wonder if I should be getting it soon with the delay
>> in ultimately receiving it.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>
> I've been struggling with the same decision. Especially since
> Van's/Lycoming announced their most recent sale. I don't need it until
> the spring, but the debate is whether or not the economy will cause the
> price to be higher or lower next spring.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Mitchell" <chris(at)cmitchellfly.com> |
| Subject: | N104BS is painted! |
Brian, It looks incredibly nice!! I cant wait to see it live.
Chris Mitchell
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N104BS is painted!
Just brought home my airplane today from GLO Custom. I'm really happy
with the quality of their work!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
59.5 hours (and no, I haven't completed the SB yet! >:o )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | N104BS is painted! |
Thanks Vern! (et al.)
I would love to take credit for the design however I got it from
aircraftpaintschemes.com.
Brian
Vernon Smith wrote:
> Brian,
>
> My wife & I both agree your paint scheme is the coolest one we have
> seen! Nice Job.
>
> Vern (#324 finishing)
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2008 17:43:49 -0500
> > From: rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: N104BS is painted!
> >
> > Just brought home my airplane today from GLO Custom. I'm really happy
> > with the quality of their work!
> >
> > Brian Sutherland
> > Nashville, TN
> > N104BS
> > 59.5 hours (and no, I haven't completed the SB yet! >:o )
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. Help
> protect your kids.
> <http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_family_safety_072008>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N104BS is painted! |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Brian,
I am in the middle of paint prep (i.e. filling all the rivets in with Evercoat
Rage Extreme in the whole tail section, as per William and others) so I am EXTREMELY
interested and impressed with your paint job!
Here's a thought:
In painting cars with urethane basecoat/clearcoat, I understand that when they
first started this in the manufacturing business, they made the mistake of clearing
too long after the base was applied -- hence you would see 2-3 yr old cars
looking like a snake shedding skin as the clear peeled off. I've only painted
solid color cars with base/clear and the instructions say you have a 40 minute
to couple hours window to get the clear on so that it bonds to the color
coat.
I love the protection and "wet" look of clearcoat, but I would be concerned with
doing multi-color schemes (which requires drying enough to tape off and repaint)
then clearing the whole thing because of the delayed bonding thing. It could
be done if you cleared each section as you went, but what a chore! I think
most are going with Concept or other acrylic enamels that wouldn't have that
issue.
I don't know what you used, but I've been thinking about this for awhile and thought
I'd air it out.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196141#196141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
OK, Tim and others.
I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so
that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming
over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought
I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic,
whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only
less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects
the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently,
Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn
it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's
a source of pure carbon black?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Frickin Perfect Rod Ends |
Hi All
After returning from KOSH and seeing what great RV10s are out there, I was
energized to start building again.To that end, I decided to see if I could
turn my newly received rod end replacement parts into something usable.
Having some "spare" parts, I did a little riveting experimentation before
trying the real things. Pix P1010016.JPG shows what happens when you try to
put a AN470AD4-11 rivet in a piece of tubing without the rod end installed.
I tried this several times and always got the same result. It appears that
the rod end provides enough structure that the rivets don't bend too much
inside the rod end tube.
As I had already ruined a some installed rod ends, I used these parts to
practise the techniques suggested by Carl and others until I was certain I
could get good results.
Here is what I did to get 4 perfect rod ends:
* First I made a V channel holder (see P1010015.JPG) as suggested by
Carl. This I aligned on my drill press so that the drilled would always go
through the centerline of a tube and clamped in place.
* Drill the #40 pilot hole with the rod end in place. Care must be
taken to ensure that the rod end does not "wander" out of the tube when
drilling. Prevent this by holding the rod end in place by hand when
drilling. I also clamped the tube in the V channel to ensure it did not
move.
* Insert a #40 drill bit in the drilled hole (see P1010019.JPG) and
then drill the next hole. Re-drill this hole with the #30 bit then rotate
and re-drill the first hole #30 - use a #30 drill bit in the first hole to
keep everything aligned.
* After a bit of experimenting, I found that if I used a "fence" (See
P100024.JPG) to help align parts, I could easily get great results using the
back riveting method to install the ANAD4704-11 rivets.
* P1010023.JPG shows how I aligned the parts for riveting.
* I used several very short, light bursts on the rivet gun to get the
results shown in pix P1010026.JPG. The shop heads are round and meet spec
dead on. When riveting keep an eye on how the shop head on the rivet is
moving - you may have to slightly rotate the tube etc if to keep the the
shop head square to the back rivet plate.
Many thanks to those who passed on advice as to how to do these rod ends.
The instructions in the plans are not very specific as to how to do these
rivets. If you mess up - especially in riveting, you will be going back to
the House of Vans for extra parts.
I have a couple of suggestions for those who are doing this for the first
time. DO NOT cut the 21 11/32" rods from the stock. The stock rod is a few
inches longer than required and so there is a little "forgiveness" available
if you have a problem. I suggest installing a rod end first and then cutting
the rod to the required length. You can waste about 5" before you need to
order a new rod. As well, when cutting the rod, cut it about 1/16" too long
and then use a disk sander with a table to square the end down to the exact
length required.
This step seems quite simple in the plans but is deceptively difficult if
you are doing it for the first time. For me, I found it impossible to drill
out the -11 rivets without buggering the piece.
Cheers
Les "some assembly required" Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
Lew, why not just try the stuff that is made for it. I doubt they would be
selling it if it made any significant difference in strength. This is the
link to the product at ACS. I bought some but have not used it yet.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php
Hope this helps.
Bill S
7a Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
OK, Tim and others.
I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black
so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown
on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I
thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer,
plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that
only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that
affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?
Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much
toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about
this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Well, there ya go.
Thanks, Bill !!
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196234#196234
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
I went ahead and pulled the string weeks ago but I was about ready.
My 2 cents... I don't think availability will be a problem in the near
or not so near future. When you lay down the cash, it's on it's way.
That's been my experience with everything so far (except the latest
avionics). When big ticket items are on sale, there's inventory or
excess production capacity behind it and neither is easy to fix.
Can't opine regarding pricing. But you do need some space to store the
thing.
Just got back from Osh - oil prices up? There were not signs of it
there.... "Smoke On" baby!
Bill "MauleDriver" Watson
PS - I found $4.36 a gallon fuel coming and going... not bad.
pascal wrote:
>
> yep, same dilemma.
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:58 PM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
>>> Date: 2008/08/01 Fri PM 04:51:12 EST
>>> To: "rv10-list"
>>> Subject: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>>>
>>> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the
>>> engine? Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything
>>> seems to be coming together and wonder if I should be getting it
>>> soon with the delay in ultimately receiving it.
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>
>> I've been struggling with the same decision. Especially since
>> Van's/Lycoming announced their most recent sale. I don't need it
>> until the spring, but the debate is whether or not the economy will
>> cause the price to be higher or lower next spring.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
West Marine, epoxy colorant.- Mine had to order black; they seemed to hav
e every color but.- Comes in a small toothpaste-sized tube.- Only takes
a small dribble to turn a fair amount of epoxy black.=0ARob=0A#392=0Afairi
ng sanding and propeller work=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: Lew Gallagher =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent:
Saturday, August 2, 2008 6:40:06 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: toner in windshi
charter.net>=0A=0AOK, Tim and others.- =0A=0AI really like the idea of co
loring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from
inside.- BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberg
lass with bondo type materials.- =0A=0ANow then, I've got a good friend w
ho is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying
that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff i
s.- So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of tone
r is carbon black.- So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding qua
lity of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?- Apparently, Tim, you've h
ad no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black,
but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's
a source of pure carbon black?=0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A--------=0Anon-pilot
=0Acrazy about building=0ANOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549=0AEngine and FF here
, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onlin
e here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210=0A
-=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall
==========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
To belabor the point,=0AWest Marine.com, search for WM Part #184796.- Mad
e by Evercoat.- $10 per tube.=0Ahttp://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stor
es/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/13853/377%20710%20987%204294966637/69/Ep
oxy%20/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/10/0?N=377%20710%20987%204
294966637&Ne=69&Ntt=Epoxy%20&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=Catego
ryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum
=165=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
inside without painting the inside of the window.
Fred
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, Tim and others.
>
> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so
that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on
skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I
thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic,
whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only
less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects
the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently,
Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn
it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if
there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first
layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion
problem.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
inside without painting the inside of the window.
Fred
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, Tim and others.
>
> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and
I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he
verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm
wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed
with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it
doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone
has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
Rene'
By the time I had any significant lay up on the window it's about the 4
or 5th layer that really goes up the inside of the glass. I put it high
up and not in contact with the aluminum.
Thanks for the warning.
Fred
Rene wrote:
>
> No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first
> layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion
> problem.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
> M.D.
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
>
>
>
> Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
> carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
> layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
> inside without painting the inside of the window.
>
> Fred
>
>
> Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>>
>> OK, Tim and others.
>>
>> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
>>
> black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
> frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
>> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and
>>
> I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
> polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he
> verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm
> wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed
> with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it
> doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone
> has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> --------
>> non-pilot
>> crazy about building
>> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
>> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Thanks Guys,
If our West Systems dealer here has the black, that's definitely the way to go
with no worries. We'll find out tomorrow.
Carbon same as graphite as a corrosive to aluminum? I dunno, Rene'.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196329#196329
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers on aluminum
might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks with the use of MEK
and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades and putty knifes are a
quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier aircraft. Your family members
deserve no less.
FWIW
John C.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
Patrick,
By chance, I happen to have done the Van's service bulletin on my RV-7A last weekend
that applies a safety wire to the fuel pickup in each tank. To do this
one has to remove the fuel tank access plates, which are essentially identical
to the ones on the inboard tank rib of the RV-10. I had done a little 'randomized'
experiment by using Van's cork gasket on one side, sealed with ProSeal,
and on the other side I just used ProSeal without any cork gasket, as was recommended
by Gary Sobek, my Tech Counselor at the time. The -7A is a bit over
three years old, and here is what I can report: both the ProSeal-only and the
ProSeal-applied to cork gasket work fine to hold the fuel in the tank with no
leaks. Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork
is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover
plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only
side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded surfaces most
of the way around the circumference of the cover plate. However, when it came
loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a razor blade as a scraper combined
with MEK.
So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of future maintenance.
Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
Hope this helps,
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
RV-7A N747DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we would
like some feedback.
We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group
gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. Comments?
Are there other changes which would make things better next year?
We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick
up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you.
Any other comments?
A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use
and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for
all.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
A while back I reported an issue with my governor "surging" at certain RPM settings.
It would hold 2300 fine but trying 2500 it would jump up to about 2580/2600.
After research and a call to Van's it turned out to be a known issue with
SOME early revision MT governors. I was referred to MT in Florida, and after
a discussion with them, found out that they too also were aware of this. Fix
is to pull the governor, send it to them and they will modify it to the "F"
level revision. He said that they'd do the modifications and turn it around
in 2 days and that it was covered under warranty.
I was a little surprised when I called them back to get a Return Authorization
number and found out that they didn't use them... I sent the governor to them
insured and with a return receipt on a Thursday. Following Monday I got a call
acknowledging receipt with a couple of questions. Wednesday afternoon of that
same week I got a call from somebody else at MT asking if UPS ground shipping
would be OK!
I returned from OSH today to find my governor waiting for me. Haven't had a chance
to put it back on and try it, but here's the work they did per the 8130-3:
- installed new case hardened pilot valve
- installed new conical speeder spring
- installed new flyweight assembly
- installed new cover
- bench tested
The governor's serial number has also been changed to reflect the "F" level revision.
While it was a hassle to pull the governor, I am very happy with the service that
MT provided. I would have preferred (I think) an exchange so the plane wasn't
down, but this way I get back the same virtually new governor that I started
with. Great company to do business with!
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196345#196345
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything starts
with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on the flaps,
so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The instructions
for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect?
Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the wing
and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But now at
home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I remembered
reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc.
I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a reference
by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane as
the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about 1/4 inch
above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they
would be close to being right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron
position.
The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to the
early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take much to
add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is coming together
so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need to know what "right"
is!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I did my wing tips while my wings were on the stand and just put the flaps
all the way up to the stops, then aligned the aileron...then the wing tip.
When I put the wings on the airplane and when I did the final alignment, I
pulled the flaps all the way up and then did the final rigging of the
aileron. Early in the flight testing I had a heavy left wing and in an
effort to figure out where it was coming from, I checked the position of the
flaps in the "up" position, 3 degree reflex. I noted that the right flap
was not all the way in the reflex position. I fixed that, and my heavy left
wing is all but gone.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap alignment
OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything
starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on
the flaps, so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The
instructions for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you
know when it's perfect?
Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the
wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But
now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I
remembered reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons
for speed, etc.
I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a
reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane
as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about
1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends
tomorrow, but they would be close to being right if there is "up" built into
the flap/aileron position.
The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to
the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take
much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is
coming together so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need
to know what "right" is!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack
initiation? Accidental cuts and gouges?
What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see below)?
John Ackerman 40458
On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers
> on aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks
> with the use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor
> blades and putty knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on
> air carrier aircraft. Your family members deserve no less.
>
>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since
>> the cork is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the
>> pieces and the cover plate pried away and popped loose without much
>> difficulty. The ProSeal only side was quite a bit more difficult
>> to break loose, !
>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover
>> plate. However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean
>> up using a razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>
>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>> -Dan Masys
>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>> RV-7A N747DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Thanks Rene',
So -3 degrees it is? Just where in the heck do they tell you that?! And the "stops"
are just when the leading edge of the flap bumps the spar? I think that
leaves a fair amount of inaccuracy -- I like the -3 degrees better. It shouldn't
be too hard to make a quick jig.
This seems like a fairly critical setting and I'm surprised I couldn't find it
addressed in the plans.
We'll probably give Van's a call, but they're 3 hrs. behind us and we want to get
this nailed so we can get the wings back off today.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196377#196377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report |
I have the same issue with the MT prop governor, it was surging 100 to
200rpm in cruise, and I pulled it off yesterday to send back to MT. A
little bit of a hassle when you have the fairings installed. I asked
them about exchange and I got the impression that they might be willing
to do that but if you send them your current governor, when you receive
it back and install it, it will be set at the same max RPM as when you
removed it, so you don't have to do all of the adjustments that was
required initially.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT 175 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH gathering |
I thought everything went great, the timing worked for me. I enjoyed
putting faces with names! Thanks for a great cookout.
Sam Marlow
#40157
gary wrote:
>
> Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we would
> like some feedback.
>
> We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group
> gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. Comments?
>
> Are there other changes which would make things better next year?
>
> We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick
> up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you.
>
> Any other comments?
>
> A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use
> and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for
> all.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
The plans have you bringing the flap up to the stop. I do not remember if
they ref 3 degrees or if I got that number form the list. Either way, I
used my digital level to determine the 3 degrees. Measured the angle of the
top skin and made sure flap was 3 degrees reflex. When I originally set the
aileron and wing tip, I had the wings in the vertical stands and just pulled
the flap up to the stop, clamped the flap and aileron together and then went
to work on the wing tips.
I am also using the flap positioning system, but you know I have not checked
to see if the first stop is really 0 degrees, I think I may the next time I
am at the hanger.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 4:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flap alignment
Thanks Rene',
So -3 degrees it is? Just where in the heck do they tell you that?! And
the "stops" are just when the leading edge of the flap bumps the spar? I
think that leaves a fair amount of inaccuracy -- I like the -3 degrees
better. It shouldn't be too hard to make a quick jig.
This seems like a fairly critical setting and I'm surprised I couldn't find
it addressed in the plans.
We'll probably give Van's a call, but they're 3 hrs. behind us and we want
to get this nailed so we can get the wings back off today.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196377#196377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Same reason you don't use steel wool on aluminum. It can initiate
corrosion. Yes, steel scrapers will scratch the aluminum and can
generate all the issues of deep scratches. Phenolic scrapers, or
scrap plexiglass ground into a scraper works pretty well.
I don't disagree with Dan using what he did for that purpose(getting
to skins apart), IF you recognize that close inspection will be
required and you may have to scrap a piece if it gets too scratched.
On way of reducing risk is to select stainless steel putty knife, to
minimize the corrosion aspect.
Of course John is giving you the airline point of view, where tanks
frequently need attention, and costs are much higher, as are risks,
along with the maximum level of regulation/oversight. Different
standards, different needs...but the physics of steel and aluminum
remain the same.
On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:58 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack initiation?
> Accidental cuts and gouges?
> What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see below)?
> John Ackerman 40458
>
>
> On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
>>
>> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers on
>> aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks with the
>> use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades and putty
>> knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier aircraft.
>> Your family members deserve no less.
>>
>>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork
>>> is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover
>>> plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only
>>> side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
>>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover plate.
>>> However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a
>>> razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>>
>>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps,
>>> -Dan Masys
>>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>>> RV-7A N747DL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
Lew,
The best way I have seen to get the flaps correctly rigged is to have
them installed on the plane and to raise them to the point that the
bottom of the flap is flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Also,
both flaps should reach this point at the same time. If it possible
for one to reach this point early and put extra strain on the flap rod
while the motor reaches full up. If this happens, when you drop the
flaps the plane will want to roll because one flap will deploy more
than the other. BTW, you will have to file down the end of the flap
to remove any clearance issues with the side of the fuselage, and
don't forget that there will be paint added, so leave a little room
for paint, while not leaving a big gaping hole.
The length on all of the pushrods can vary a little based on different
components in the system. On the flaps, if you don't have them
drilled and bolted with the exact dimensions as the plans call for,
this can change the length of the pushrod. It's best to get it close
and then install it and adjust for full retraction and deployment of
the flaps and then snug up the jam nuts and mark which one is right
and left for reinstallation after the wings go back on, unless (of
course) you are rigging them with the final wing installation.
Also something I have seen in the Aileron rigging. It is not
uncommon, from what I have seen, to have the pushrod that connects to
the aileron itself to have clearance issues with the aileron attach
hinge when in full down. Make sure you don't have that issue when
rigging.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 3, 2008, at 9:47 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously
> everything starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there
> are adjustments on the flaps, so how do you know what the correct
> raised position is? The instructions for length of the connecting
> rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect?
>
> Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface
> of the wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get
> started. But now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better
> check since I thought I remembered reading about slight up angle on
> trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc.
>
> I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found
> a reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
>
> Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the
> same plane as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of
> the wingtips about 1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to
> reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they would be close to being
> right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron position.
>
> The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as
> opposed to the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem?
> It wouldn't take much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit.
> Heck, everything else is coming together so fine, I might as well
> make that right too -- I just need to know what "right" is!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
Did anyone get the tail number of the unpainter 10 with the compression mar
ks near the bulkhead so that the owner could be informed of what was happen
ing in case they are not aware of it on their own or not on this list?
John G. > Date: Mon=2C 4 Aug 2008 08:34:22 -0500> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com> To:
rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim noted at OS
king to another RV-10 pilot at OSH just before I left and> he told me he pe
eked at some of the RV-10's that flew in and looked> for asymmetrical trim
tab deployment. As we've discussed in> the past=2C the tabs should be both
neutral at the same time=2C but> when they go up=2C only one goes up (the o
ther does move up a> tiny amount)=2C and when they go down=2C they both sho
uld go down.> You should never have a situation where one goes up and one>
goes down.> > Having only one tab move up may sound crazy=2C but that's how
> it's supposed to work=2C and keep in mind that this isn't> strange at all
....many planes and even the other RV's> are built with only one trim tab o
n one side. But=2C what makes> our case unique is that if the builder screw
s up the rigging=2C> they can end up with the 2 tabs in opposite deflection
s.....and> if you follow the plans=2C you will likely have a small misalign
ment.> > These observations were not made by me=2C but were brought> to my
attention:> So what was observed was that N921AC has some asymmetrical trim
=2C> then another unpainted RV-10 had a worse condition of> asymmetrical tr
im. But the one that took the prize was one> of the build-for-customer RV-1
0's that was at the show....> from what I was told=2C that RV-10 had one tr
im tab that was> approx. 10 degrees up=2C while the other tab was approx. 1
0 deg> down. NOW=2C the interesting thing was=2C the person also> noticed t
hat it appeared that this particular RV-10 may> have had a little compressi
on deformity of that rear> bulkhead noted in the SB.> > Perhaps next year a
t OSH we should have a gathering to> specifically look at some noted areas
of every RV-10> and self-group-check for any potential safety issues?> This
year I just looked at all the pretty planes.> Pretty good turnout overall.
========================> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH gathering |
Unfortunately, we were unable to get by and see you guys.- We did manage
to drive through on Sunday, but couldn't remember the-location.... that b
eing said, how about a nice large flag with RV 10 HHQ on it?--Did manag
e to go to Van's dinner, but there were simply tooooo many-RV'ers there t
o actually find anybody..... we were a couple of months from having the 10
flying, so next year our 10 will be there.
Don & Kim McDonald
#40636- Finishing the Finishing--
--- On Sun, 8/3/08, gary wrote:
From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: OSH gathering
Date: Sunday, August 3, 2008, 6:27 PM
Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we would
like some feedback.
We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group
gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. Comments
?
Are there other changes which would make things better next year?
We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick
up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you.
Any other comments?
A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use
and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for
all.
Gary Specketer
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Let me add that we sneak Skin Knives into some applications (also a terminable
offence). Blending of scratches requires a 10:1 or 15:1 taper (depending on the
SRM = Structural Repair Manual). You all have written one to effect repairs,
haven't you? it is amazing how deep a scratch goes when force is used. Remember
that the Alclad pure coating is not very thick. Five percent on each side
for a total of 10 percent coating. So 0.032" means 0.0016" on each surface.
On the RV-12 using 0.020 skin it is even more critical. Just hand force used
on a tool can permanently stretch the skin - forever.
"Skin knives" and "thread taps" are two ways to get quickly busted. We use them,
on the sly and with high degree of situational awareness and desire for job
security.
John - back to GRAVES tonight after two weeks with real aviators.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
Same reason you don't use steel wool on aluminum. It can initiate
corrosion. Yes, steel scrapers will scratch the aluminum and can
generate all the issues of deep scratches. Phenolic scrapers, or
scrap plexiglass ground into a scraper works pretty well.
I don't disagree with Dan using what he did for that purpose(getting
to skins apart), IF you recognize that close inspection will be
required and you may have to scrap a piece if it gets too scratched.
On way of reducing risk is to select stainless steel putty knife, to
minimize the corrosion aspect.
Of course John is giving you the airline point of view, where tanks
frequently need attention, and costs are much higher, as are risks,
along with the maximum level of regulation/oversight. Different
standards, different needs...but the physics of steel and aluminum
remain the same.
On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:58 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack initiation?
> Accidental cuts and gouges?
> What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see below)?
> John Ackerman 40458
>
>
> On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
>>
>> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers on
>> aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks with the
>> use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades and putty
>> knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier aircraft.
>> Your family members deserve no less.
>>
>>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork
>>> is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover
>>> plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only
>>> side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
>>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover plate.
>>> However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a
>>> razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>>
>>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps,
>>> -Dan Masys
>>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>>> RV-7A N747DL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
Here is a picture of Van's flap in the up position.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/1100252_iPQ2t#53383949_nGRvz-A-LB
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 7:28:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap alignment
Lew,
The best way I have seen to get the flaps correctly rigged is to have
them installed on the plane and to raise them to the point that the
bottom of the flap is flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Also,
both flaps should reach this point at the same time. If it possible
for one to reach this point early and put extra strain on the flap rod
while the motor reaches full up. If this happens, when you drop the
flaps the plane will want to roll because one flap will deploy more
than the other. BTW, you will have to file down the end of the flap
to remove any clearance issues with the side of the fuselage, and
don't forget that there will be paint added, so leave a little room
for paint, while not leaving a big gaping hole.
The length on all of the pushrods can vary a little based on different
components in the system. On the flaps, if you don't have them
drilled and bolted with the exact dimensions as the plans call for,
this can change the length of the pushrod. It's best to get it close
and then install it and adjust for full retraction and deployment of
the flaps and then snug up the jam nuts and mark which one is right
and left for reinstallation after the wings go back on, unless (of
course) you are rigging them with the final wing installation.
Also something I have seen in the Aileron rigging. It is not
uncommon, from what I have seen, to have the pushrod that connects to
the aileron itself to have clearance issues with the aileron attach
hinge when in full down. Make sure you don't have that issue when
rigging.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 3, 2008, at 9:47 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously
> everything starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there
> are adjustments on the flaps, so how do you know what the correct
> raised position is? The instructions for length of the connecting
> rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect?
>
> Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface
> of the wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get
> started. But now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better
> check since I thought I remembered reading about slight up angle on
> trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc.
>
> I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found
> a reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
>
> Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the
> same plane as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of
> the wingtips about 1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to
> reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they would be close to being
> right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron position.
>
> The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as
> opposed to the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem?
> It wouldn't take much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit.
> Heck, everything else is coming together so fine, I might as well
> make that right too -- I just need to know what "right" is!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at |
OSH
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> Your post about "opting out" is a good segway into a topic that I wanted to
> raise with the group.
>
> Over my build process, this list has been my support group in a very real
> sense. There are few builders where I am so I have had to learn as a go
> along and call on the list when I run into problems. To that end, I find it
> easier and easier to admit my mistakes and get help.
>
They say confession is good for the soul!
> While at KOSH, I spoke with another builder who recognized my name from my
> "Oh sh*t" posts. As a builder he was only lurking as he found the list a bit
> intimidating. As a group, I believe that we need to encourage more builders
> to raise their issues and problems so that they can move forward in the
> knowledge that they are not alone in turning aluminum into scrap. If you
> read the list over time, it is easy to get the impression that not many
> "mistakes" are raised and therefore everyone is doing everything exactly
> right.
>
We all make mistakes. It's how we handle them that makes the
difference. I'll admit to welding up the elevator horn holes twice
because I wasn't satisfied. I ended up drilling the holes for the
pushrod starting with 1/8" and working my way up to the #12 .... in
three steps. Much, much easier although it took much, much longer. I'm
now a satisfied camper.
> While on the surface, having a "group inspection" of a/c at KOSH may sound
> like a good idea, I am not sure I would appreciate an uninvited critique of
> my workmanship. I suspect the process would all too easily evolve into a
> beauty contest. I understand that anyone can look at any a/c at KOSH and
> form their own opinions. This is fair dinkum. However, I don't think a
> "group inspection" would be such a great idea as it might offend the mere
> mortals on the list who are not building a show plane.
>
I see your point. There are no perfect airplanes out there .... whether
we build them or a factory does. When I built my Pitts, it was rough
compared to those who have built many. I was (and still am) really
proud of my accomplishment. About the only thing I'm learning about
with the RV-10 is the riveting .... and I'm getting the same education
everyone else is. However, I don't get anal about a 'slightly
imperfect' rivet. I'm not building my airplane for awards .... I'm
going to fly the dickens out of it. My RV-10 isn't going to sit in the
hangar like antique cars sit in garages.
It's the consensus of a group that I look for. Like I said, we're an
opinionated group, and the lone pair of eyes can do more 'damage' to
your building reputation by running his mouth. He may be ignorant of
the truth. The group opinion should be far more constructive. It's the
experience of those looking that's important.
> Perhaps a better approach would be to identify a few recognized
> knowledgeable builders who can offer to review a/c one on one if asked. This
> respects the individual builders while making a very worthwhile service
> available in an informal and non-threatening manner.
>
Another good point. However, when do you see the recognized
knowledgeable builders without a group??? ;-)
> Just my $0.02
>
And I appreciate your comments. I find this to be a really great group,
and don't want 'fear of criticism' to cause anyone not to participate.
Linn ..... will be part of the flying group someday
> Cheers
>
> Les "some assembly required" Kearney
> #40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
how about everybody come to my airport and inspect my airplane before the a
irworthiness inspector does?- That'd be great!=0Ai should be careful for
what I wish!=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0Awindshield fairing and spinner=0A=0A=0A
=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>=0ATo:
rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, August 4, 2008 2:10:42 PM=0ASubject
: Constructive Feedback was RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH=0A=0A
=0A=0AYour post about "opting out" is a good segway into a topic that I wan
ted to=0Araise with the group.=0A=0AOver my build process, this list has be
en my support group in a very real=0Asense. There are few builders where I
am so I have had to learn as a go=0Aalong and call on the list when I run i
nto problems. To that end, I find it=0Aeasier and easier to admit my mistak
es and get help. =0A=0AWhile at KOSH, I spoke with another builder who reco
gnized my name from my=0A"Oh sh*t" posts. As a builder he was only lurking
as he found the list a bit=0Aintimidating. As a group, I believe that we ne
ed to encourage more builders=0Ato raise their issues and problems so that
they can move forward in the=0Aknowledge that they are not alone in turning
aluminum into scrap. If you=0Aread the list over time, it is easy to get t
he impression that not many=0A"mistakes" are raised and therefore everyone
is doing everything exactly=0Aright. =0A=0AWhile on the surface, having a "
group inspection" of a/c at KOSH may sound=0Alike a good idea, I am not sur
e I would appreciate an uninvited critique of=0Amy workmanship. I suspect t
he process would all too easily evolve into a=0Abeauty contest. I understan
d that anyone can look at any a/c at KOSH and=0Aform their own opinions. Th
is is fair dinkum. However, I don't think a=0A"group inspection" would be s
uch a great idea as it might offend the mere=0Amortals on the list who are
not building a show plane.=0A=0APerhaps a better approach would be to ident
ify a few recognized=0Aknowledgeable builders who can offer to review a/c o
ne on one if asked. This=0Arespects the individual builders while making a
very worthwhile service=0Aavailable in an informal and non-threatening mann
er.=0A=0AJust my $0.02=0A=0ACheers=0A=0ALes "some assembly required" Kearne
y=0A#40643=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of l
inn Walters=0ASent: August-04-08 10:58 AM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0AS
ubject: Re: RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH=0A=0A--> RV10-List me
ssage posted by: linn Walters =0A=0AJohn Cox wro
>=0A>=0A> I second the comment of a pretty good turn-out and a good group o
f=0A> product representation entries.=0A>=0A> Kelly would be a good candida
te as one of those potential observers.=0A> Each plane should be able to OP
T out of the review if desired.=0AWhy (and how) would they do that???- Ki
nda defeats the purpose of =0Aincreasing your knowledge (I didn't know that
!!! :-P ) and everyone is =0Agoing to see the same thing anyway.- This gr
oup isn't full of sharks =0Awaiting for the chance to bite a head off, and
if the 'anomaly' is so =0Abad ..... shouldn't the owner be informed????=0A>
- As an EAA Tech, I would be happy to assist the team.=0A>=0A> Keeping ra
tes low is a result of frequent Pilot Proficiency and regular=0A> maintenan
ce.- Knowing what to look for, how to correct it and pending=0A> issues b
eginning to arise saves everyone a lot of money and a loss of=0A> friends.
- By Opting out we can avoid some of the non-productive=0A> criticism tha
t does not advance safety "One Iota".- I spent this year=0A> getting trai
ning on becoming a Warbird Judge and how the scoring system=0A> works at OS
H.=0A>- =0AWe'll always get some flames here and there ...... but as a gr
oup =0Afunction I don't think that'll happen.- The information could be
=0Apresented on a written sheet rather than having a public hanging.=0A> Th
e plastic plane crowd has publically conceded that the pursuit of=0A> milli
on dollar kits has given the bulk of the market to VANS and the=0A> RV-10 i
s becoming the pre-eminent X-Cntry cruiser.=0A>- =0AAs it should be.- M
y favorite is the Grumman line ..... and the RV-10 is =0Aeverything the Gru
mman AA-5s want to be.- Plus, we can customize our =0Abirds and they can'
t!!! :-)=0A=0AOur Grumman Gang is a great group to get info from (for the G
rummans), =0Aand the experience level is high ..... hence the info is excel
lent.- We =0Astill have some biting emails, but if there are sensitive ow
ners out =0Athere, they just consider the source and move on.=0A=0AThe more
we take care of our brethren, the better we get as a group, and =0Athat wi
ll result in better insurance rates and may even result in some =0Aflight c
ost savings.- I don't mind taking flak .... builders are an =0Aopinionate
d lot ..... but I'd hate to miss that little nugget of info =0Athat helps m
===================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PIREP: Tungsten Bucking Bar |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
My wife and I stopped by the Cleaveland truck during OSH to say hi to
Mike and of course browse the tool selection. After some glowing praise
of the tungsten bucking bars ("rivets practically melt with these
things") we decided to buy one and see what the hoopla is all about.
Well, after driving 30-ish rivets last night (many in very tight
quarters) I have to say I'm really impressed. The bar is so small it's
hard to imagine many spots on the plane that you couldn't get it lined
up on a rivet and yet it has the same mass of bars 4-5 times its size.
It's early but my initial impression is that this is a must have tool,
particularly for a new builder who doesn't already have a bunch of money
invested in regular steel bars.
Just my $.02
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
DONE! Thanks for your timely responses. I made a -3 degree jig and went with
that. Miraculously, when I adjusted the ailerons to the new flap position, the
wing tips were dead on! Unbelievable, made my day.
We started early while it was still cool and had the new adjustments made, all
push rod locknuts tightened and safety painted, then disassembled and wings off
and back in the garage by the time Van's opened up (12 noon our time). And
none too soon since it hit 98 today.
So we didn't bother to check with Van's.
Scott and Jessie, thanks for the tip of looking at the corner relative to the fuse
bottom edge. I did go ahead and trim the inner edge of the flaps to give
a good clearance. And with the -3 degree setting, the corner is just a bit lower
than the edge -- close enough since I don't want to mess with the great wingtip
alignment.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196492#196492
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at |
OSH
Les, et al,
I don't know if Canada has them, but this is one of the functions of the
EAA Tech Counselor program.
Perhaps there aren't too many tech counselors who are RV-10 builders
yet...but John C and myself are. I'm not far enough into my project to
offer much -10 specific advise, yet..but perhaps there are others who are.
Anyone who has built a plane such as the RV-10 can apply to the EAA for
designation as a Tech Counselor. I would encourage some of you that are
flying to consider this, and it is a good way to both meet new builders
and volunteer a little time to advise them. More information is
available on the EAA web site. Most EAA chapters will have several, and
some have even built an RV before. 8-)
Project visits are done one on one, a written report is given to the
builder, and a copy goes to EAA. It is one effort to reduce failures
during the test fly-off period.
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> Your post about "opting out" is a good segway into a topic that I wanted to
> raise with the group.
>
> Over my build process, this list has been my support group in a very real
> sense. There are few builders where I am so I have had to learn as a go
> along and call on the list when I run into problems. To that end, I find it
> easier and easier to admit my mistakes and get help.
>
> While at KOSH, I spoke with another builder who recognized my name from my
> "Oh sh*t" posts. As a builder he was only lurking as he found the list a bit
> intimidating. As a group, I believe that we need to encourage more builders
> to raise their issues and problems so that they can move forward in the
> knowledge that they are not alone in turning aluminum into scrap. If you
> read the list over time, it is easy to get the impression that not many
> "mistakes" are raised and therefore everyone is doing everything exactly
> right.
>
> While on the surface, having a "group inspection" of a/c at KOSH may sound
> like a good idea, I am not sure I would appreciate an uninvited critique of
> my workmanship. I suspect the process would all too easily evolve into a
> beauty contest. I understand that anyone can look at any a/c at KOSH and
> form their own opinions. This is fair dinkum. However, I don't think a
> "group inspection" would be such a great idea as it might offend the mere
> mortals on the list who are not building a show plane.
>
> Perhaps a better approach would be to identify a few recognized
> knowledgeable builders who can offer to review a/c one on one if asked. This
> respects the individual builders while making a very worthwhile service
> available in an informal and non-threatening manner.
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Cheers
>
> Les "some assembly required" Kearney
> #40643
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Which airport?
The DAR program involves non FAA personnel in the awarding of
Airworthiness Certificates and the submission of application for a
Repairman's Certificate. There was quite a discussion about DARs who
are knowingly signing off multiple builds by the same builder for hire
during the second 51% meeting at Osh. The first meeting on the 51% was
by the FED about the rule change, in reality a policy change which "Is
not about Safety".
You may have a DAR who is just right for you. We had a great
Airworthiness Inspector who moved from Hillsboro to Spokane and we lost
a valued resource locally.
"Das Fed"
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Constructive Feedback was RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim
noted at OSH
how about everybody come to my airport and inspect my airplane before
the airworthiness inspector does? That'd be great!
i should be careful for what I wish!
Rob Wright
#392
windshield fairing and spinner
----- Original Message ----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 2:10:42 PM
Subject: Constructive Feedback was RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim noted at
OSH
Linn
Your post about "opting out" is a good segway into a topic that I wanted
to
raise with the group.
Over my build process, this list has been my support group in a very
real
sense. There are few builders where I am so I have had to learn as a go
along and call on the list when I run into problems. To that end, I find
it
easier and easier to admit my mistakes and get help.
While at KOSH, I spoke with another builder who recognized my name from
my
"Oh sh*t" posts. As a builder he was only lurking as he found the list a
bit
intimidating. As a group, I believe that we need to encourage more
builders
to raise their issues and problems so that they can move forward in the
knowledge that they are not alone in turning aluminum into scrap. If you
read the list over time, it is easy to get the impression that not many
"mistakes" are raised and therefore everyone is doing everything exactly
right.
While on the surface, having a "group inspection" of a/c at KOSH may
sound
like a good idea, I am not sure I would appreciate an uninvited critique
of
my workmanship. I suspect the process would all too easily evolve into a
beauty contest. I understand that anyone can look at any a/c at KOSH and
form their own opinions. This is fair dinkum. However, I don't think a
"group inspection" would be such a great idea as it might offend the
mere
mortals on the list who are not building a show plane.
Perhaps a better approach would be to identify a few recognized
knowledgeable builders who can offer to review a/c one on one if asked.
This
respects the individual builders while making a very worthwhile service
available in an informal and non-threatening manner.
Just my $0.02
Cheers
Les "some assembly required" Kearney
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: August-04-08 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
John Cox wrote:
>
> I second the comment of a pretty good turn-out and a good group of
> product representation entries.
>
> Kelly would be a good candidate as one of those potential observers.
> Each plane should be able to OPT out of the review if desired.
Why (and how) would they do that??? Kinda defeats the purpose of
increasing your knowledge (I didn't know that!!! :-P ) and everyone is
going to see the same thing anyway. This group isn't full of sharks
waiting for the chance to bite a head off, and if the 'anomaly' is so
bad ..... shouldn't the owner be informed????
> As an EAA Tech, I would be happy to assist the team.
>
> Keeping rates low is a result of frequent Pilot Proficiency and
regular
> maintenance. Knowing what to look for, how to correct it and pending
> issues beginning to arise saves everyone a lot of money and a loss of
> friends. By Opting out we can avoid some of the non-productive
> criticism that does not advance safety "One Iota". I spent this year
> getting training on becoming a Warbird Judge and how the scoring
system
> works at OSH.
>
We'll always get some flames here and there ...... but as a group
function I don't think that'll happen. The information could be
presented on a written sheet rather than having a public hanging.
> The plastic plane crowd has publically conceded that the pursuit of
> million dollar kits has given the bulk of the market to VANS and the
> RV-10 is becoming the pre-eminent X-Cntry cruiser.
>
As it should be. My favorite is the Grumman line ..... and the RV-10 is
everything the Grumman AA-5s want to be. Plus, we can customize our
birds and they can't!!! :-)
Our Grumman Gang is a great group to get info from (for the Grummans),
and the experience level is high ..... hence the info is excellent. We
still have some biting emails, but if there are sensitive owners out
there, they just consider the source and move on.
The more we take care of our brethren, the better we get as a group, and
that will result in better insurance rates and may even result in some
flight cost savings. I don't mind taking flak .... builders are an
opinionated lot ..... but I'd hate to miss that little nugget of info
that helps me out.
Linn .... my opinion
do not
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Does anyone have a source for a center console similar to the ones sold by
Accuracy Avionics? I don't need a panel, just the center console along with
a storage box. I have fabbed an aluminum one but I really like the look of
the ones I saw at KOSH.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Stein had one in his booth made out of aluminum. It looked pretty nice.
$1,000 was a little too stiff for my budget.
I like what Greg Hale did with his panel and console.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/panel.html
http://www.nwacaptain.com/console.html
I asked, but he doesn't have copies of his plans anymore. When I get to
this stage, I think I may take the time to build molds. It shouldn't be too
hard to duplicate. It may take some time, but it will save some $$$.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Center console
Hi
Does anyone have a source for a center console similar to the ones sold by
Accuracy Avionics? I don't need a panel, just the center console along with
a storage box. I have fabbed an aluminum one but I really like the look of
the ones I saw at KOSH.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Bob
I have seen Greg's site before. It was what got me thinking about a center
console. I would like mine to be a little less elaborate however as I don't
want to divide my panel in thirds.
Greg's is pretty nice looking though..
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: August-04-08 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Center console
Stein had one in his booth made out of aluminum. It looked pretty nice.
$1,000 was a little too stiff for my budget.
I like what Greg Hale did with his panel and console.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/panel.html
http://www.nwacaptain.com/console.html
I asked, but he doesn't have copies of his plans anymore. When I get to
this stage, I think I may take the time to build molds. It shouldn't be too
hard to duplicate. It may take some time, but it will save some $$$.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Center console
Hi
Does anyone have a source for a center console similar to the ones sold by
Accuracy Avionics? I don't need a panel, just the center console along with
a storage box. I have fabbed an aluminum one but I really like the look of
the ones I saw at KOSH.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Chatting with the SMA Diesel guys at Fond du Lac waiting for Friday's
rain shower to blow through . . .
They hinted that they have been talking a little with Van's about
engineering an installation of the SMA diesel for the RV-10. This is a
change from a few years ago when they weren't interested in the
homebuilt market.
Obviously Van's is conservative when it comes to engines, and SMA is,
too. They want to make sure any installation is pretty well wrung out.
The engine has essentially been around for at least 6 years now, so they
think they have a pretty mature design.
It is in their interest, obviously, but they hinted that the end of
100LL is going to accelerate now that some have picked it up as an
environmental issue. (i.e. lead pollution)
Anyway, for those of you that are in the early stages of building, if
you want a certified diesel with a large company behind it for support,
it might behoove you to let Van's know about your interest in the SMA
diesel. The more folks that mention it to Van's, the more motivation
they have to support SMA and perhaps even setup some OEM pricing like
they have on Lycomonings.
Cheers,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I look forward to SMAs success in convincing VAN to consider a second
engine option other than the Lycoming IO-540. I will say prayers and
wish them luck for our brethren over the pond that have a hard time with
100LL avgas. I am adding Rob Hickman's 3 blade composite Hartzell to
those prayers as well.
I was just getting all excited about the Lycoming TEO-540-A ie2 engine
having about the same chance. I was also sorry to hear that John
Delamarter is no longer with Thunderbolt.
Let's start posting about all the new vendor products to get things
rolling again.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
Chatting with the SMA Diesel guys at Fond du Lac waiting for Friday's
rain shower to blow through . . .
They hinted that they have been talking a little with Van's about
engineering an installation of the SMA diesel for the RV-10. This is a
change from a few years ago when they weren't interested in the
homebuilt market.
Obviously Van's is conservative when it comes to engines, and SMA is,
too. They want to make sure any installation is pretty well wrung out.
The engine has essentially been around for at least 6 years now, so they
think they have a pretty mature design.
It is in their interest, obviously, but they hinted that the end of
100LL is going to accelerate now that some have picked it up as an
environmental issue. (i.e. lead pollution)
Anyway, for those of you that are in the early stages of building, if
you want a certified diesel with a large company behind it for support,
it might behoove you to let Van's know about your interest in the SMA
diesel. The more folks that mention it to Van's, the more motivation
they have to support SMA and perhaps even setup some OEM pricing like
they have on Lycomonings.
Cheers,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Apparently the new PMAG for the IO540 is going to be tested on an RV10
starting directly after Oshkosh 2008.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
I look forward to SMAs success in convincing VAN to consider a second engine
option other than the Lycoming IO-540. I will say prayers and wish them
luck for our brethren over the pond that have a hard time with 100LL avgas.
I am adding Rob Hickman's 3 blade composite Hartzell to those prayers as
well.
I was just getting all excited about the Lycoming TEO-540-A ie2 engine
having about the same chance. I was also sorry to hear that John Delamarter
is no longer with Thunderbolt.
Let's start posting about all the new vendor products to get things rolling
again.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
Chatting with the SMA Diesel guys at Fond du Lac waiting for Friday's rain
shower to blow through . . .
They hinted that they have been talking a little with Van's about
engineering an installation of the SMA diesel for the RV-10. This is a
change from a few years ago when they weren't interested in the homebuilt
market.
Obviously Van's is conservative when it comes to engines, and SMA is, too.
They want to make sure any installation is pretty well wrung out. The
engine has essentially been around for at least 6 years now, so they think
they have a pretty mature design.
It is in their interest, obviously, but they hinted that the end of 100LL is
going to accelerate now that some have picked it up as an environmental
issue. (i.e. lead pollution)
Anyway, for those of you that are in the early stages of building, if you
want a certified diesel with a large company behind it for support, it might
behoove you to let Van's know about your interest in the SMA diesel. The
more folks that mention it to Van's, the more motivation they have to
support SMA and perhaps even setup some OEM pricing like they have on
Lycomonings.
Cheers,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I was told by a rep at SMA that the retro-fit cost for a C182 is north
of 100k.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 8:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
Chatting with the SMA Diesel guys at Fond du Lac waiting for Friday's
rain shower to blow through . . .
They hinted that they have been talking a little with Van's about
engineering an installation of the SMA diesel for the RV-10. This is a
change from a few years ago when they weren't interested in the
homebuilt market.
Obviously Van's is conservative when it comes to engines, and SMA is,
too. They want to make sure any installation is pretty well wrung out.
The engine has essentially been around for at least 6 years now, so they
think they have a pretty mature design.
It is in their interest, obviously, but they hinted that the end of
100LL is going to accelerate now that some have picked it up as an
environmental issue. (i.e. lead pollution)
Anyway, for those of you that are in the early stages of building, if
you want a certified diesel with a large company behind it for support,
it might behoove you to let Van's know about your interest in the SMA
diesel. The more folks that mention it to Van's, the more motivation
they have to support SMA and perhaps even setup some OEM pricing like
they have on Lycomonings.
Cheers,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Aside from cost issues...that package is designed to replace a 230 hp O-470,
which weigh as much as an IO-550. There would have to be some serious effort
to resolve W& B issues. Also, IIRC it needs a fair amount of cooling air for
the radiator...not very streamlined.
On Mon, Aug 4, 2008 at 9:03 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> I was told by a rep at SMA that the retro-fit cost for a C182 is north of
> 100k.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Las Vegas Area 10 Builders |
Any 10 builders in the Las Vegas area, I will be in Las Vegas for 4 days
and will have free time to visit to talk flying, building ect.
Please contact me
707-479-5895 cell
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIREP: Tungsten Bucking Bar |
I consider it a must have tool too.
However, I've found that I still need my favorite steel bars too. I
gave Mr Tungsten its first real workout on the bottom QB wing skins.
Lot's of reaching into tight spaces there.
The good news is that the tungsten greatly eased many of the bucks.
The bad news is that I soon found that I overused it. It's too small to
grip easily in some circumstances. That makes it difficult to hold on
to (and you know what happens if you lose your grip $%###&#!), and
therefore tiring on the hands. Once I experimented with my old standby
"Big Buck Chunk-o-iron" I found myself using it and the Mr Tungsten 50:50.
The surprising news is that I didn't drop either bar in the wing (yet).
Still waiting to see the ding that little dense piece of tungsten can
make when dropped. It'll probably happen the minute I stop using
padding....
Bill "psyched after Oshkosh and heads down panel planning" Watson
40605
Douglas, Brian S wrote:
> ...snippety snip...
> It's early but my initial impression is that this is a must have tool,
> particularly for a new builder who doesn't already have a bunch of money
> invested in regular steel bars.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap alignment |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Tim,
Dang, I was afraid you were too busy with Osh to chime in before Mon. !
Looks like we'll revisit the alignment after all. Fortunately, like just about
everything else, we get really good about the third time we re-do stuff.
The flaps were a bit shy of bumping, and a bit shy of the -3 jig, but MAN those
wing tip alignments just got the best of me! In hindsight (of COURSE) the tip
up above the fuse edge makes sense in terms of drag.
It will give us a chance to try out our flex, braided fuel lines we had made up
yesterday -- we really didn't like our "S" turns in the Van's fuel lines from
tank to fuse. So we cut them off at the fuse and flared them for the hose there.
And the plane in the driveway with the wings attached really gives the neighbors
something to gawk at -- almost caused several wrecks!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196582#196582
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Constructive Feedback was Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Tim,
We'll soon be mounting the windshield and making that fairing. I'm pretty sure
what you're talking about in that lower corner, but could you post a picture
to show "that seam forward"?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196583#196583
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Interesting thing on the Hartzell 3 blade, having heard that they would h
ave pricing available at OSH I stopped by their booth to find out how much
fully expecting it to be in the 10-15k range. I was basically told they ha
d no information and if I wanted to put it on a RV-10 I would have to get e
veryone to bug Van's to carry it otherwise I was out of luck. Easier solut
ion to me is sticking with an MT, no bugging Van's and plenty of people fro
m MT willing to discuss. :) Guess that's why Hartzell usually had a bunch
of employees standing around talking amongst themselves every time I walke
d by.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
I look forward to SMAs success in convincing VAN to consider a second engin
e option other than the Lycoming IO-540. I will say prayers and wish them
luck for our brethren over the pond that have a hard time with 100LL avgas.
I am adding Rob Hickman's 3 blade composite Hartzell to those prayers as
well.
I was just getting all excited about the Lycoming TEO-540-A ie2 engine havi
ng about the same chance. I was also sorry to hear that John Delamarter is
no longer with Thunderbolt.
Let's start posting about all the new vendor products to get things rollin
g again.
John Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new products |
Yes, I will look forward to Alex's feedback on how well the P-Mag
works. I have been talking to the P-mag guys now for 3 years on
getting the 6-cyl version going. Their design, from what I have seen,
is very simple both from an installation and a timing aspect, which
makes it very attractive to the amateur-built market. Also, the lack
of dependence on the aircraft electrical system puts it well above the
other offering(s) in my mind.
I have been talking with Brent Maule about their new plane with the
SMA for over a year now. They really like the engine so far. They
say the economy is great and that it is very smooth considering it is
a diesel.
Would anybody like to comment on their thoughts about Dynon's new
offering? Way too soon to be displaying a product slated for sometime
in 2009? Maybe just following suit with the other major players in
the experimental EFIS market? Personally, I can't wait to see the
final product and the Dynon-ish price tag and simplicity. We'll see.
Rob's prop looked great, although I really see the need to get true
comparison numbers. Rob, is it a 12" spinner? How about finding
someone who would be interested in loaning you their metal prop for a
day of testing? We have yet to get that test done with any of the
different prop offerings. Do we have any idea what the cost will be.
While not a new offering, I know there are a number of people still
waiting to hear numbers on the Barrett Cold Air Induction system. Is
Gary still the only one flying with that? He said he was going to be
getting together with Tim to compare numbers. May I propose that we
get you to do a max MP comparison at 10-14-18,000 feet? With the
standard IO-540 max MP is just over 15 at 17,500, so another inch or
two would go a long way and possibly even increase fuel economy as IAS
is below what we consider to be best glide, so a little boost in MP
would possibly get the best economy at those altitudes.
Numbers on the James cowl would be nice to get when one is flying. I
don't ever remember hearing numbers on the one flying in Canada.
Is there any more information on the turbo-charged -10 down in
Australia? I remember that being mentioned once on the forum a year
or two ago, but then it dropped off the map.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 4, 2008, at 11:26 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> Apparently the new PMAG for the IO540 is going to be tested on an
> RV10 starting directly after Oshkosh 2008.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders |
When are you going to be here John?
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 9:54:45 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
Any 10 builders in the Las Vegas area,=C2- I will be in Las Vegas for 4 d
ays and will have free time to visit to talk flying, building ect.=C2-
Please contact me
707-479-5895 cell
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell and their support |
Same experience at AOPA last year. My wife mentioned on the spot the
same thing, why would I want to spend energy when there is a prop that
has been tested for years and they are more open to discuss than the
Hartzell folks.. BTW this was also based on asking for the 2 blade
aluminum information and getting semi blown off with- "it's the best
prop out there.. period!" but did not seem interested in expanding on
why? which was what I was asking for.
I really like their prop and I know that Van's is considering it based
on feedback on testing (maybe Rob's data?) but unless the price is equal
or competitive and Rob can expand on his flight to OSH with the 3 blade
that shows it is equal or better than the MT, I'll be going MT. The wife
wants 3 blade, so no need to sell that to her.
Rob;
How about that review on the the prop for your flight to OSH and any
updates on your AFS you covered at OSH?
Pascal
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
Interesting thing on the Hartzell 3 blade, having heard that they
would have pricing available at OSH I stopped by their booth to find out
how much fully expecting it to be in the 10-15k range. I was basically
told they had no information and if I wanted to put it on a RV-10 I
would have to get everyone to bug Van's to carry it otherwise I was out
of luck. Easier solution to me is sticking with an MT, no bugging Van's
and plenty of people from MT willing to discuss. J Guess that's why
Hartzell usually had a bunch of employees standing around talking
amongst themselves every time I walked by.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
I look forward to SMAs success in convincing VAN to consider a second
engine option other than the Lycoming IO-540. I will say prayers and
wish them luck for our brethren over the pond that have a hard time with
100LL avgas. I am adding Rob Hickman's 3 blade composite Hartzell to
those prayers as well.
I was just getting all excited about the Lycoming TEO-540-A ie2 engine
having about the same chance. I was also sorry to hear that John
Delamarter is no longer with Thunderbolt.
Let's start posting about all the new vendor products to get things
rolling again.
John Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | NTSB checking Door Pins |
On Saturday afternoon I was at the plane getting things set up to leave.
Three guys from the NTSB came up and asked if they could measure my door
pins.
Jeff Guzzetti (guzzetj(at)ntsb.gov) said they have had a number of contacts
from RV-10 owners, and explained that they are doing a field study to see
how far the pins extend. They measured the pins both extended and
retracted, and photographed the guide blocks. I have all the stock system,
and some of my blocks are cracking at the outboard tangent of the pin hole.
I gotta fix that.
They wrote everything down and promised to share the findings with me. I
tried to peek at the other measurements from other planes but no joy.
I have never heard of the NTSB doing anything like that, so I asked Ken
Krueger a few minutes later what was up and he confirmed that they measured
Van's 10 as well. I don't know how many others were inspected.
I think the NTSB's attention is a good thing, but I could swear I felt a new
draft of air from the leading edge of the door all the way home...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC, 202 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Intersting New/Better stuff seen at OSH |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Cleveland tools has three cool items
1. Flared wheel pant stand-offs / extenders $45
2. A nice red anodized fuel selector handle for the Vans valve - $34
3. Nice set of flush fitting door locks for the main doors - not yet up on their
web site - I think that the price was a bit north of $100
Rob Hickman's cool 3 blade prop from Hartzell.
Ray Allen Company has a flap position indicator kit for about $100. If you have
an AFS unit apparently it will indicate on your EFIS. In that case you only need
to buy the $35 sending unit. Means that you do not need to look to confirm
how your flaps are deployed on final.
[b]TCW Safety Trim system[/b] for prevents run-away trim danger
McFarlane silicone impregnated baffle seal material - their web site is McFarlaneaviation.com
- called cowl saver
Leading Edge Graphics (Air Graphics LLC) - cool custom stripes for your RV-10 or
any other aircraft - a bit pricey
Bonaco RV-10 SS/Teflon Brake line kit $175 (Bonacolnc.com)
Andair locking fuel caps - $150 - pricey but nicey
If you saw any cool stuff at OSH - list it here so that we can all build a better
and hopefully safer airplane
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196640#196640
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NTSB checking Door Pins |
so the question is.. why are they doing this? NTSB wouldn't do it unless
they are looking for a consistent issue that could result in an accident
or has resulted in an accident they are reviewing.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: NTSB checking Door Pins
On Saturday afternoon I was at the plane getting things set up to leave.
Three guys from the NTSB came up and asked if they could measure my
door pins.
Jeff Guzzetti (guzzetj(at)ntsb.gov) said they have had a number of contacts
from RV-10 owners, and explained that they are doing a field study to
see how far the pins extend. They measured the pins both extended and
retracted, and photographed the guide blocks. I have all the stock
system, and some of my blocks are cracking at the outboard tangent of
the pin hole. I gotta fix that.
They wrote everything down and promised to share the findings with me.
I tried to peek at the other measurements from other planes but no joy.
I have never heard of the NTSB doing anything like that, so I asked Ken
Krueger a few minutes later what was up and he confirmed that they
measured Van's 10 as well. I don't know how many others were inspected.
I think the NTSB's attention is a good thing, but I could swear I felt a
new draft of air from the leading edge of the door all the way home...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC, 202 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gasoline rebates |
| From: | "itsmyneck" <jimmiew(at)runbox.com> |
There is actually a new program of gas rebates that includes 25 brands. Once every
month for twenty consecutive months they send you a $25 gas debit card. It's
a brand loyalty deal:
http://www.SignUpForGasMoney.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196644#196644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
On the way home to California on Monday, we stopped at KEMM for fuel and a
break. The airport elevation is about 7200' and the OAT was 28C. Density
altitude was a bit above 10,000 feet. Landing was a little odd because the
ground speed seemed high, but otherwise uneventful. We had about a 10 knot
crosswind with very little headwind component. We were able to turn off
very easily at mid field.
They have an 8200' runway so I knew if the takeoff didn't seem to be going
well we would have plenty of time to evaluate and abort.
Our takeoff weight was about 2550-2600 lbs. I opted not to fill the tanks.
We had 45 gallons on board.
I was worried that at such a high DA, it would mush and climb lethargically.
I should have known better!
We made full power (20" MP) with the brakes set at the departure end, and
picked a landmark near mid field to help judge distance.
The take-off was a non event. It took longer to get airborne, but at mid
field we were 100 AGL and climbing well.
This plane is awesome!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Las Vegas Area 10 Builders |
Rick
I will be in Las Vegas Thursday Aug 7 - the 10th.
I will have a lot of time in the evenings to visit.
Shoot me your address and contact info and I will look you up when I get
there.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
When are you going to be here John?
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 9:54:45 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
Any 10 builders in the Las Vegas area, I will be in Las Vegas for 4 days
and will have free time to visit to talk flying, building ect.
Please contact me
707-479-5895 cell
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High DA takeoff |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Dave,
It is an awesome airplane and I look forward to flying mine in the mountains when
it is done. Thanks for putting on the fiberglass forum at OSH. It is always
helpful to see how the pros do it.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196659#196659
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I just finished putting the rudder cables in mine so this caught my eye. One of
the 10s at OSH had its rudder cable aft plastic tubes (that protect the skin
and rear bulkhead) pushed too far forward. The cable will start sawing the skin.
I never saw the owner, and some guys don't appreciate the feedback. For
me, you can never have too many eyes on a project. It is cheap insurance and
good QC.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196664#196664
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Constructive Feedback was Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Another $0.02
It never bothered me to see rivet lines on aluminum airplanes. They are supposed
to be there. What doesn't make sense to me is using filler (aka weight) to
make it look like a compost aircraft.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196666#196666
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bose X Aviation Headset For Sale |
| From: | "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com> |
I have a nice Bose X up for sale on e-Bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300247651009&rd=1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196669#196669
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Kelly, I wondered about that - certainly if particles of iron came off
the scraper, it would be possible to form a corrosion cell, but a fair
amount of material would be required to establish a significant
corrosion rate. For heaven's sake don't ask me to quantify that!
Steel wool is different - relatively large slivers do break off and
lodge in the surface
More wondering ...
Is there a concern wherever steel meets aluminum? (answer, I think:
"Of course, but Al forms a protective Al2O3 coating, limiting
corrosion rate to an acceptable level except under really adverse
circumstances")
Comment?
John
On Aug 4, 2008, at 7:12 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Same reason you don't use steel wool on aluminum. It can initiate
> corrosion. Yes, steel scrapers will scratch the aluminum and can
> generate all the issues of deep scratches. Phenolic scrapers, or
> scrap plexiglass ground into a scraper works pretty well.
> I don't disagree with Dan using what he did for that purpose(getting
> to skins apart), IF you recognize that close inspection will be
> required and you may have to scrap a piece if it gets too scratched.
> On way of reducing risk is to select stainless steel putty knife, to
> minimize the corrosion aspect.
> Of course John is giving you the airline point of view, where tanks
> frequently need attention, and costs are much higher, as are risks,
> along with the maximum level of regulation/oversight. Different
> standards, different needs...but the physics of steel and aluminum
> remain the same.
>
> On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:58 PM, John Ackerman
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack
>> initiation?
>> Accidental cuts and gouges?
>> What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see
>> below)?
>> John Ackerman 40458
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic
>>> scrapers on
>>> aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks
>>> with the
>>> use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades
>>> and putty
>>> knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier
>>> aircraft.
>>> Your family members deserve no less.
>>>
>>>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since
>>>> the cork
>>>> is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces
>>>> and the cover
>>>> plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The
>>>> ProSeal only
>>>> side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
>>>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>>>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover
>>>> plate.
>>>> However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up
>>>> using a
>>>> razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>>>
>>>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>>>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>>>
>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>> -Dan Masys
>>>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>>>> RV-7A N747DL
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Scratches, John:
Everything in this non-ideal world gets scratched. I believe the issue
is what are the stresses on the part, how big is the scratch, and how
sharp are its corners. I certainly don't disagree with what you say,
and your post is very helpful. Do you have any more quantitative
guidance for us? It would be most welcome.
John Ackerman 40458
On Aug 4, 2008, at 8:49 AM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Let me add that we sneak Skin Knives into some applications (also a
> terminable offence). Blending of scratches requires a 10:1 or 15:1
> taper (depending on the SRM = Structural Repair Manual). You all
> have written one to effect repairs, haven't you? it is amazing how
> deep a scratch goes when force is used. Remember that the Alclad
> pure coating is not very thick. Five percent on each side for a
> total of 10 percent coating. So 0.032" means 0.0016" on each
> surface. On the RV-12 using 0.020 skin it is even more critical.
> Just hand force used on a tool can permanently stretch the skin -
> forever.
>
> "Skin knives" and "thread taps" are two ways to get quickly busted.
> We use them, on the sly and with high degree of situational
> awareness and desire for job security.
>
> John - back to GRAVES tonight after two weeks with real aviators.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
>
>
> Same reason you don't use steel wool on aluminum. It can initiate
> corrosion. Yes, steel scrapers will scratch the aluminum and can
> generate all the issues of deep scratches. Phenolic scrapers, or
> scrap plexiglass ground into a scraper works pretty well.
> I don't disagree with Dan using what he did for that purpose(getting
> to skins apart), IF you recognize that close inspection will be
> required and you may have to scrap a piece if it gets too scratched.
> On way of reducing risk is to select stainless steel putty knife, to
> minimize the corrosion aspect.
> Of course John is giving you the airline point of view, where tanks
> frequently need attention, and costs are much higher, as are risks,
> along with the maximum level of regulation/oversight. Different
> standards, different needs...but the physics of steel and aluminum
> remain the same.
>
> On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:58 PM, John Ackerman
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack
>> initiation?
>> Accidental cuts and gouges?
>> What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see
>> below)?
>> John Ackerman 40458
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic
>>> scrapers on
>>> aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks
>>> with the
>>> use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades
>>> and putty
>>> knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier
>>> aircraft.
>>> Your family members deserve no less.
>>>
>>>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since
>>>> the cork
>>>> is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces
>>>> and the cover
>>>> plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The
>>>> ProSeal only
>>>> side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
>>>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>>>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover
>>>> plate.
>>>> However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up
>>>> using a
>>>> razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>>>
>>>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>>>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>>>
>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>> -Dan Masys
>>>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>>>> RV-7A N747DL
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | NTSB checking Door Pins |
This may involve their investigation of 415EC?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NTSB checking Door Pins
so the question is.. why are they doing this? NTSB wouldn't do it unless
they are looking for a consistent issue that could result in an accident or
has resulted in an accident they are reviewing.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor <mailto:Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: NTSB checking Door Pins
On Saturday afternoon I was at the plane getting things set up to leave.
Three guys from the NTSB came up and asked if they could measure my door
pins.
Jeff Guzzetti (guzzetj(at)ntsb.gov) said they have had a number of contacts
from RV-10 owners, and explained that they are doing a field study to see
how far the pins extend. They measured the pins both extended and
retracted, and photographed the guide blocks. I have all the stock system,
and some of my blocks are cracking at the outboard tangent of the pin hole.
I gotta fix that.
They wrote everything down and promised to share the findings with me. I
tried to peek at the other measurements from other planes but no joy.
I have never heard of the NTSB doing anything like that, so I asked Ken
Krueger a few minutes later what was up and he confirmed that they measured
Van's 10 as well. I don't know how many others were inspected.
I think the NTSB's attention is a good thing, but I could swear I felt a new
draft of air from the leading edge of the door all the way home...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC, 202 hours
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | re: Center Console - Buyer's remorse |
I have a case of buyer's remorse. I sent money to Lancair Avionics shortly
after OSH last year. I had returned the center console to Accuracy Avioni
cs for reasons that I won't go into here. For the record, Tony Sustare too
k very good care of me. My hat is off to him. I then negotiated a deal wi
th Lancair to provide a center console and panel for my plane.
Things with Lancair have not gone well. A year later, I still don't have t
he panel that I expected. I have now filed a claim in small claims court a
nd filed for a reversal of the final $12,045 charge on my Visa bill. Once
the case is settled, I will provide details to inquiring minds off list. I
have not gone public until now, since I don't want Lancair to have ammunit
ion to use against me in court.
Indeed, I helped them prototype a new panel that is an inch lower than the
standard panel. It has the large vents molded in and set at an angle. It
will be marvelous once it is installed. HOWEVER...I was put on the back bu
rner multiple times. I was told that my panel was put on hold while they t
ried to get their new ship into the air for SNF...only to then have it put
on hold for OSH this year. Part of why I say beware is this...I had a conve
rsation with employees and former employees stating that they won't be doin
g any more RV's. So while they have a GREAT center console and exactly the
panel I wanted for my plane... I wouldn't send them any money anytime so
on.
My plane should have been at OSH this year...and wasn't. I was promised th
at I would have my panel before Thanksgiving '07...and didn't get it until
JUNE '08. And it was WRONG! When all the dust has settled... it will be a
fabulous plane. Someday it will fly.
I would ask that NO ONE contact Lancair about this situation. I felt an ob
ligation provide a heads up when the question of center consoles came up.
Do business with Lancair at your own risk with your eyes wide open.
All I can say is - BUYER BEWARE!
Pete James #40100
=======
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Center console
Hi
Does anyone have a source for a center console similar to the ones sold by
Accuracy Avionics? I don't need a panel, just the center console along with
a storage box. I have fabbed an aluminum one but I really like the look of
the ones I saw at KOSH.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com> |
Excellent thread Tim!
I too noticed several trims that could have been better, including mine as it
turns out. I had a great conversation with several builders at the -10 camp.
I really learned alot and I look forward to learning more.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196717#196717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Center Console - Buyer's remorse |
My panel and center console are from Lancair and I knew from many that they
had issues with building the panel so I just ordered the panel and center
console from them and did all my own wiring. When I ordered my panel they
were quoting 12 months to deliver the completed panel. =0AI was actually v
ery impressed with the speed at which my panel and center console came. Th
e fit/finish and painting was very nice. =0A=0AI don't understand how they
get themselves into these situations after doing this for many many years.
=0ASorry to hear about your frustration James. That is too bad. =0A=0AI
know some want a center console but after I have had one and flown with on
e, I wouldn't miss it if I didn't have one. =0AIt really isn't all that la
rge to hold stuff and I could have made side pockets by my feet or somethin
g under the dash in the center that hold just about as much. =0AIt is sort
of like a junk drawer at home. I find myself grabbing the center bar more
than resting my arm on the center console. =0AIt sure makes maintenance an
d the annual easier without it and of course it will be lighter. Then ther
e is the fact that is does take up some leg room. =0AI love the way it loo
ks and I wouldn't change anything now but I might not go through all the wo
rk again if I did it all over. =0A=0A Scott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.c
om=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "James, Peter [SD]" <P
eter.James(at)sprint.com>=0ATo: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 12:29:06 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: re:
Center Console - Buyer's remorse=0A=0A =0AI have a case of buyer=92s=0Are
morse. I sent money to Lancair Avionics shortly after OSH last year. I ha
d returned the=0Acenter console to Accuracy Avionics for reasons that I won
=92t go into=0Ahere. For the record, Tony Sustare took very good care of m
e. My=0Ahat is off to him. I then negotiated a deal with Lancair to provi
de a=0Acenter console and panel for my plane.=0A =0AThings with Lancair hav
e not=0Agone well. A year later, I still don=92t have the panel that I exp
ected. =0AI have now filed a claim in small claims court and filed for a re
versal of the final=0A$12,045 charge on my Visa bill. Once the case is set
tled, I will provide=0Adetails to inquiring minds off list. I have not gon
e public until now,=0Asince I don=92t want Lancair to have ammunition to us
e against me in court.=0A =0AIndeed, I helped them=0Aprototype a new panel
that is an inch lower than the standard panel. It=0Ahas the large vents mo
lded in and set at an angle. It will be marvelous=0Aonce it is installed.
HOWEVER=85I was put on the back burner multiple=0Atimes. I was told that
my panel was put on hold while they tried to get=0Atheir new ship into the
air for SNF=85only to then have it put on hold for OSH this year. Part of
=0Awhy I say beware is this=85I had a conversation with employees and forme
r=0Aemployees stating that they won=92t be doing any more RV=92s. So=0Awhi
le they have a GREAT center console and exactly the panel I wanted for my
=0Aplane=85 I wouldn=92t send them any money anytime soon.=0A =0AMy plane
should have been at OSH this year=85and=0Awasn=92t. I was promised that I
would have my panel before Thanksgiving=0A=9107=85and didn=92t get it unti
l JUNE =9208. And it was WRONG! =0AWhen all the dust has settled=85 it wil
l be a fabulous plane. Someday=0Ait will fly.=0A =0AI would ask that NO ON
E contact Lancair=0Aabout this situation. I felt an obligation provide a h
eads up when the=0Aquestion of center consoles came up. Do business with L
ancair at your own=0Arisk with your eyes wide open.=0A =0AAll I can say is
- BUYER BEWARE!=0APete=0AJames #40100 =0A =0A =0A========
ject: RV10-List: Center=0Aconsole=0A =0A =0AHi=0A =0ADoes anyone have a sou
rce=0Afor a center console similar to the ones sold by=0AAccuracy Avionics?
I don't=0Aneed a panel, just the center console along with=0Aa storage box
. I have fabbed=0Aan aluminum one but I really like the look of=0Athe ones
I saw at KOSH.=0A =0AInquiring minds need to know=0A =0ALes Kearney=0A#4064
=========================0A
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
Does anyone know which plane was used for spin testing of the RV-10?
I would not be surprised if it was the green and white one and that is where the
cracks originated from.
The loading that a couple of rotations in a spin could be an issue though.
I was just curious. With only one plane with the issue makes me wonder what type
of loading that plane has seen that no one else has seen.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Geico266 <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 1:28:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
Excellent thread Tim!
I too noticed several trims that could have been better, including mine as it turns
out. I had a great conversation with several builders at the -10 camp. I
really learned alot and I look forward to learning more.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196717#196717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It was N410RV (the yellow one). You can still see the mount points for
the spin chute on the tailcone.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
Does anyone know which plane was used for spin testing of the RV-10?
I would not be surprised if it was the green and white one and that is
where the cracks originated from.
The loading that a couple of rotations in a spin could be an issue
though.
I was just curious. With only one plane with the issue makes me wonder
what type of loading that plane has seen that no one else has seen.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Geico266 <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 1:28:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | The rear bulkhead SB |
Maybe this is the plane Nasa used for Oregon aero's High G seating ??
etc..
Seat Cushion Testing:
Cushions Pass Full Scale 19G Lumbar Load Test
FULL SCALE, REAL TIME TEST - While a highly modified seat with
Oregon Aero cushions was used in the pictured test conducted at NASA a
few years ago - and the Oregon Aero cushions passed the test - Oregon
Aero is developing a complete seat (frame, pan and cushions, with and
without legs) that will pass this test and be comfortable, reliable and
affordable.
Pascal
From: Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
Does anyone know which plane was used for spin testing of the RV-10?
I would not be surprised if it was the green and white one and that is
where the cracks originated from.
The loading that a couple of rotations in a spin could be an issue
though.
I was just curious. With only one plane with the issue makes me wonder
what type of loading that plane has seen that no one else has seen.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Geico266 <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 1:28:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new products |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I did not make it out to OSH but kept track of all the announcement virtually.
After waiting for Garmin to come out with a touch screen portable GPS, Bendix/King
beat them to the punch.
https://www.bendixking.com/AV8OR/
Not sure if this was a OSH but it seems someone has already developed a manual
spring bias rudder trim for RV's.
http://www.mlskunkworks.embarqspace.com/#/ruddertrim/4528455343
Then there is the Lycoming FADEC TEO-540 that no one seems to have a picture of.
Lycoming is certifying the IO-390 and seeking an STC first for the Cardinal 177
RG. Maybe Vans will develop a IO-390 Firewall Forward kit for the RV-10, but
I doubt it.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Yes, I will look forward to Alex's feedback on how well the P-Mag
> works. I have been talking to the P-mag guys now for 3 years on
> getting the 6-cyl version going. Their design, from what I have seen,
> is very simple both from an installation and a timing aspect, which
> makes it very attractive to the amateur-built market. Also, the lack
> of dependence on the aircraft electrical system puts it well above the
> other offering(s) in my mind.
>
> I have been talking with Brent Maule about their new plane with the
> SMA for over a year now. They really like the engine so far. They
> say the economy is great and that it is very smooth considering it is
> a diesel.
>
> Would anybody like to comment on their thoughts about Dynon's new
> offering? Way too soon to be displaying a product slated for sometime
> in 2009? Maybe just following suit with the other major players in
> the experimental EFIS market? Personally, I can't wait to see the
> final product and the Dynon-ish price tag and simplicity. We'll see.
>
> Rob's prop looked great, although I really see the need to get true
> comparison numbers. Rob, is it a 12" spinner? How about finding
> someone who would be interested in loaning you their metal prop for a
> day of testing? We have yet to get that test done with any of the
> different prop offerings. Do we have any idea what the cost will be.
>
> While not a new offering, I know there are a number of people still
> waiting to hear numbers on the Barrett Cold Air Induction system. Is
> Gary still the only one flying with that? He said he was going to be
> getting together with Tim to compare numbers. May I propose that we
> get you to do a max MP comparison at 10-14-18,000 feet? With the
> standard IO-540 max MP is just over 15 at 17,500, so another inch or
> two would go a long way and possibly even increase fuel economy as IAS
> is below what we consider to be best glide, so a little boost in MP
> would possibly get the best economy at those altitudes.
>
> Numbers on the James cowl would be nice to get when one is flying. I
> don't ever remember hearing numbers on the one flying in Canada.
>
> Is there any more information on the turbo-charged -10 down in
> Australia? I remember that being mentioned once on the forum a year
> or two ago, but then it dropped off the map.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Aug 4, 2008, at 11:26 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> > Apparently the new PMAG for the IO540 is going to be tested on an
> > RV10 starting directly after Oshkosh 2008.
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Does anyone have a detailed wiring diagram of the way you wire up the ignition
switch (I have the ACS master switch) to work with a single Plasma III? My left
Mag is an impulse and the right will be the Plasma III.
I am trying to polish up the wiring diagrams so I can get serious at pulling wires
and this is one of the last little things I need to hash out.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196804#196804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Crane on sale @ Harbor Freight |
Listers,
I used a 2 ton Harbor Freight crane and 4 ton load leveler to lift and
hold my empenage during joining to the fuselage (one man job), to fit,
lift and replace the "lid" during fit/sand/fit/sand (one man job), and
to install the engine (again, a one man job).
Harbor Freight has the crane on sale again (catalog 176-1B), this time
for $154.99. The 2-ton load leveler is $30.79, and they also have a
4-ton load leveler. Links follow:
Two ton crane, item 46766,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46766
Two ton leveler, item 5402:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=5402&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName
Four ton load leveler, item 5403:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=5403&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName
TTFN
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
This is the same line as last year and my same experience... I thought
it was just me. That post is probably is probably still in the
archives. Made me give greater appreciation to Deems propeller rather
than fund the continued rudeness of the Hartzell sales force.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
Interesting thing on the Hartzell 3 blade, having heard that they
would have pricing available at OSH I stopped by their booth to find out
how much fully expecting it to be in the 10-15k range. I was basically
told they had no information and if I wanted to put it on a RV-10 I
would have to get everyone to bug Van's to carry it otherwise I was out
of luck. Easier solution to me is sticking with an MT, no bugging Van's
and plenty of people from MT willing to discuss. J Guess that's why
Hartzell usually had a bunch of employees standing around talking
amongst themselves every time I walked by.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SMA Diesel
I look forward to SMAs success in convincing VAN to consider a second
engine option other than the Lycoming IO-540. I will say prayers and
wish them luck for our brethren over the pond that have a hard time with
100LL avgas. I am adding Rob Hickman's 3 blade composite Hartzell to
those prayers as well.
I was just getting all excited about the Lycoming TEO-540-A ie2 engine
having about the same chance. I was also sorry to hear that John
Delamarter is no longer with Thunderbolt.
Let's start posting about all the new vendor products to get things
rolling again.
John Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH RV-10 Nose Wheel Pants & Fairing |
That SUX
You are missing the best of the monsoon season...........8-)
On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 7:41 PM, wrote:
>
> Robin,
> I've got a picture of it, and will post it and all of the other OSHpics
> when I return next week.
>
> Deems Davis
> in Souix City enroute to Long Island
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elhershb(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: new products |
Hi All,
Just for a few talking points. I just received my engine from Barrett. This
is a Lycoming IO-540-X engine with Barrett Cold Air Induction, Airflow Performance
Injection, John Forsling Headers, Slick Mags and every thing else stock.
It dyno'ed out at 280 HP @ 2700 RPM. How it will do in the plane once built
is anyones guess?
Pmag told me they are close to going into production. Their quote was
they had two more parts to produce before they start assembly. As far as the running
version I took it that was to tweak the software. These will go on my engine
when they become available.
Ed Hershberger
SB Fuselage
N410EP (Reserved)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Yes, I will look forward to Alex's feedback on how well the P-Mag works. I have
been talking to the P-mag guys now for 3 years on getting the 6-cyl version
going. Their design, from what I have seen, is very simple both from an installation
and a timing aspect, which makes it very attractive to the amateur-built
market. Also, the lack of dependence on the aircraft electrical system puts
it well above the other offering(s) in my mind.
I have been talking with Brent Maule about their new plane with the SMA for over
a year now. They really like the engine so far. They say the economy is great
and that it is very smooth considering it is a diesel.
Would anybody like to comment on their thoughts about Dynon's new offering? Way
too soon to be displaying a product slated for sometime in 2009? Maybe just
following suit with the other major players in the experimental EFIS market?
Personally, I can't wait to see the final product and the Dynon-ish price tag
and simplicity. We'll see.
Rob's prop looked great, although I really see the need to get true comparison
numbers. Rob, is it a 12" spinner? How about finding someone who would be interested
in loaning you their metal prop for a day of testing? We have yet to
get that test done with any of the different prop offerings. Do we have any
idea what the cost will be.
While not a new offering, I know there are a number of people still waiting to
hear numbers on the Barrett Cold Air Induction system. Is Gary still the only
one flying with that? He said he was going to be getting together with Tim to
compare numbers. May I propose that we get you to do a max MP comparison at
10-14-18,000 feet? With the standard IO-540 max MP is just over 15 at 17,500,
so another inch or two would go a long way and possibly even increase fuel economy
as IAS is below what we consider to be best glide, so a little boost in
MP would possibly get the best economy at those altitudes.
Numbers on the James cowl would be nice to get when one is flying. I don't ever
remember hearing numbers on the one flying in Canada.
Is there any more information on the turbo-charged -10 down in Australia? I remember
that being mentioned once on the forum a year or two ago, but then it dropped
off the map.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 4, 2008, at 11:26 PM, David McNeill wrote:
Apparently the new PMAG for the IO540 is going to be tested on an RV10 starting
directly after Oshkosh 2008.
Hi All,
Just for a few talking points. I just
received my engine from Barrett. This is a Lycoming IO-540-X engine with Barrett
Cold Air Induction, Airflow Performance Injection, John Forsling Headers,
Slick Mags and every thing else stock. It dyno'ed out at 280 HP @ 2700 RPM.
How it will do in the plane once built is anyones guess?
Pmag told me they are close
to going into production. Their quote was they had two more parts to produce before
they start assembly. As far as the running version I took it
that was to tweak the software. These will go on my engine when they become
available.
Ed Hershberger
SB Fuselage
N410EP (Reserved)
Yes, I will look forward to Alex's feedback
on how well the P-Mag works. I have been talking to the P-mag guys now
for 3 years on getting the 6-cyl version going. Their design, from what
I have seen, is very simple both from an installation and a timing aspect, which
makes it very attractive to the amateur-built market. Also, the lack
of dependence on the aircraft electrical system puts it well above the other
offering(s) in my mind.
I have been talking with Brent Maule about their new plane with the SMA for
over a year now. They really like the engine so far. They say the
economy is great and that it is very smooth considering it is a diesel.
Would anybody like to comment on their thoughts about Dynon's new offering?
Way too soon to be displaying a product slated for sometime in 2009? Maybe
just following suit with the other major players in the experimental
EFIS market? Personally, I can't wait to see the final product and the
Dynon-ish price tag and simplicity. We'll see.
Rob's prop looked great, although I really see the need to get true comparison
numbers. Rob, is it a 12" spinner? How about finding someone
who would be interested in loaning you their metal prop for a day of testing?
We have yet to get that test done with any of the different prop offerings.
Do we have any idea what the cost will be.
While not a new offering, I know there are a number of people still waiting
to hear numbers on the Barrett Cold Air Induction system. Is Gary still
the only one flying with that? He said he was going to be getting together
with Tim to compare numbers. May I propose that we get you to do a
max MP comparison at 10-14-18,000 feet? With the standard IO-540 max MP
is just over 15 at 17,500, so another inch or two would go a long way and possibly
even increase fuel economy as IAS is below what we consider to be best glide,
so a little boost in MP would possibly get the best economy at those altitudes.
Numbers on the James cowl would be nice to get when one is flying. I
don't ever remember hearing numbers on the one flying in Canada.
Is there any more information on the turbo-charged -10 down in Australia?
I remember that being mentioned once on the forum a year or two ago, but
then it dropped off the map.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 4, 2008, at 11:26 PM, David McNeill wrote:
Apparently
the new PMAG for the IO540 is going to be tested
on an RV10 starting directly after Oshkosh 2008.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Asymmetrical trim , and other things |
I spoke with another -10 builder about the weird (to me) trim assembly.
I was postulating that if both trim cables ended up in the same hole on
the trim arm (either one), the asymmetrical issue would go away. His
comment was that it was designed that way for a reason, and that nobody
had issues so why not assemble to plans. OK, it seems that it is an
issue ..... but other than the slight asymmetrical problem .... is this
really a non-issue???
I'm assembling the tail surfaces to the fuselage, and I have two
problems ...... how do you get washers and nuts on the bottom flat-head
screws? I can't get my arms down that far!!! What an ideal place for a
nutplate!!!
How do you get the washers in between the elevator arms and the center
bearing??? Piece of cake without the vertical fin in place ..... but now???
When I hook up the rudder cables (remember that my cables hook up inside
the tunnel but that shouldn't change things) the pedals aren't even. It
would be a simple matter to drill the links to fit, but has anyone else
had the problem???
Linn .... this thing is getting bigger all the time!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constructive Feedback was Asymmetrical trim noted a |
t OSH
Few more .02 worth,
I have seen very little cracking on this cosmetic filled part of the RV1
0 when the proper fillers are used. If you feel with your hand over the
top of the plane in front of the windscreen it is fairly wavy over the
ribsn and down the sides. Most people are not trying to HIDE the rivets
and make it a composite plane.........even though the entire canopy and
cowl is composite, they are trying to blend it in and make it SLEEK jus
t as you do at the rear of the canopy where it meet the empenage. Again
, there is no right or wrong to HOW this is done, only a better finished
aircraft to the eye. As far as weight, most are adding more in the av
ionics area or the interior that would be less important IMHO.
Dean
____________________________________________________________
It's never too old to date. Senior Dating. Click Here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iig7plLPu7qbickwqYxITYM
XKH130jgUHCxKjy33lNCAJrsFu/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm on the finishing kit; just got the transparencies in and started on the
windshield fairing.- Also have the spinner match dirlled and getting rea
dy to install it and prop.=0AQB Wings/Fuse.- Only major things you have l
eft to buy are stick grips.=0AIO-540 L Mag/Electr. Ign=0AFlightline Interio
rs=0AIFR Panel - SteinAir panel=0AAndair Valve=0ADefog Fans=0ASBs done (VS
and Tailcone bulkhead)=0AThis is 100% ownership for the price of QB and mat
erials only; no labor factored in.=0AChanged careers and can't keep the lab
or of love.=0ARob=0A334-475-6440=0A912-228-3757=0Aflywrights(at)yahoo.com=0A
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Fuel sensor sealing |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
How about fuel sensor installed just with the cork gasket? Is the ProSeal 100%
necessary?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
| From: | "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com> |
This may be old news, but worth repeating on this thread. I as I understand it
the -10 trim tabs were originally designed to be partially actuated with flap
deployment. That system did not work out during testing and construction so it
was modified to the current configuration.
Seems to me both trim tabs should be equal all of the time as to not twist the
tail. I'm no engineer, just my $.02 worth. Maybe this is something that caused
the tail bulkhead SB?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196867#196867
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Gary,
The LSE wires in just like a mag - you use pins 1 & 9 on the LSE output
connector instead of the P lead from the mag. When configured that way
you don't use any sort of switch for LSE power.
You will see references to the "keyswitch option" in LSE's documentation
but all of them support it, it's just a matter of whether the wire is
installed in the connector. You can add it yourself if it's not there.
Wiring from either the mag or LSE is single conductor shielded. There
is a "GND" terminal where the shields connect and "L" and "R" where the
center wire from the respective ignition goes. There will be 2
terminals labeled "GND" and you want the center one (not the one
adjacent to the "R" terminal). The paper document that came with the
switch may be the only place where the actual terminal labels exist.
Contact me offline and I can send you a file with the info. It's in a
large (file size) document so I won't post it here.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram
Does anyone have a detailed wiring diagram of the way you wire up the
ignition switch (I have the ACS master switch) to work with a single
Plasma III? My left Mag is an impulse and the right will be the Plasma
III.
I am trying to polish up the wiring diagrams so I can get serious at
pulling wires and this is one of the last little things I need to hash
out.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196804#196804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | front seat picture |
I am planning my (rear) seat designs and need some pictures of the front
seat as delivered (no upholstery) to see how Oregon Aero lays out the
foam on the seat. Any pictures anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Thanks Bob. I am trying to get a handle on this. I ordered the Plasma at Osh
and have downloaded the manual. They say that it should ship in about 3 weeks.
If I can't get the wiring straight in my mind tonight I may give you a call.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196903#196903
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
No problem! Hardest part about the install is install of the crank
sensor and magnets in the ring gear assembly. Easy solution is to send
the assembly to Klaus and he will install the magnets for about $50.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Plasma III to ACS switch wiring diagram
Thanks Bob. I am trying to get a handle on this. I ordered the Plasma
at Osh and have downloaded the manual. They say that it should ship in
about 3 weeks. If I can't get the wiring straight in my mind tonight I
may give you a call.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196903#196903
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH |
I remember this being brought up before. Seems odd that they would try and do
this mechanically rather than electronically with something like Aircraft Extra's
Flap Positioning system that has the ability to adjust trim. BTW, if anyone
is thinking about getting that, don't get it from Van's as it seems they
really jacked up the price. Just get it from AE.
http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geico266
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Asymmetrical trim noted at OSH
This may be old news, but worth repeating on this thread. I as I understand it
the -10 trim tabs were originally designed to be partially actuated with flap
deployment. That system did not work out during testing and construction so it
was modified to the current configuration.
Seems to me both trim tabs should be equal all of the time as to not twist the
tail. I'm no engineer, just my $.02 worth. Maybe this is something that caused
the tail bulkhead SB?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196867#196867
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: front seat picture |
http://www.scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/1092733_2pqGD#54650525_HC6fZ
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 8:34:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: front seat picture
I am planning my (rear) seat designs and need
some pictures of the front seat as delivered (no upholstery) to see how Oregon
Aero lays out the foam on the seat. Any pictures anyone has would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net> |
Offering my RV-10 for sale. 230 Hrs since new. Many of you have seen it at Oshkosh
and Sun & Fun. All glass cockpit, new IO-540, Aerocomposite prop.
Here is you chance to get into a great looking and performing RV-10. Asking $225,000
Phone 662-873-7437
email jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net
Jim Wade
40383
N369JW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196932#196932
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/imgp0037_565.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel sensor sealing |
OK here is my .02 cents on the cork gasket for the Fuel sender unit.
In production airplanes almost all fuel take sending units and access covers
for the bladder type of takes are sealed with cork gaskets only and no
proseal is used at all. I think when I do mine it will have a touch of fuel
lube on the gasket and thats all, no proseal.
Now fuel take access panels are usually prosealed once installed and are a
bear to clean up and reseal. And I totally agree no metal scrapers if at
all possible.
#40864 Vertical stab skin riveting.
On my way to Las Vegas for a security conference and visit builders there.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Fuel sensor sealing
How about fuel sensor installed just with the cork gasket? Is the ProSeal
100% necessary?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
Any chance anyone has heard if Rob is going to add a flight path marker to the
AFS EFIS's? Seems like a glaring hole in capability that everyone else now
has and I would think it will be coming in a future release. Too me this is a
big item in an EFIS. I know he monitors our list so maybe he will chime in.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel sensor sealing |
I think I have had cork and neoprene gaskets on my fuel senders for my wet
wing Mooney. One of the few places leaks have not been a problem. (one tank
still has some sections with original 1965 sealant). Even access panels
should use the non-hardening variety of PRC, (PR1403-G-B2 or CS-3330-B).
Much easier to open and to reseal...and it uses isopropyl alcohol for
solvent for cleanup, rather than the nastier stuff.
On Wed, Aug 6, 2008 at 10:24 AM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> OK here is my .02 cents on the cork gasket for the Fuel sender unit.
>
> In production airplanes almost all fuel take sending units and access
> covers
> for the bladder type of takes are sealed with cork gaskets only and no
> proseal is used at all. I think when I do mine it will have a touch of
> fuel
> lube on the gasket and that's all, no proseal.
>
> Now fuel take access panels are usually prosealed once installed and are a
> bear to clean up and reseal. And I totally agree no metal scrapers if at
> all possible.
>
>
> #40864 Vertical stab skin riveting.
> On my way to Las Vegas for a security conference and visit builders there.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RE: Fuel sensor sealing
>
>
>
>
> How about fuel sensor installed just with the cork gasket? Is the ProSeal
> 100% necessary?
>
> TDT
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
If you are happy with just 100LL stop here. You won't like where this is going.
This effects us all even in other countries because one tends to follow the other
at some point.
If you are tired of someone saying we can't have 91 octane, read on. It's time
to pick a side and take 5 minutes to email. Our lives as people are good because
someone didn't just say ok. Some took the time to make change and made it better
for all of us. If we choose to sit on the sideline and just go along then
we deserve what we get. I would implore all to take a minute and email these
two people and any other fuel administrator in other companies. I will post on
as many aviation websites as possible and I would you all to pick a side and
stand up to be heard and maybe, just maybe we might effect change. I for one
don't want to roll over. You are about to read a bulletin about the use of Chevron
ground fuel verses aviation fuel. Then I have a response.
Don't sit back and pick my memo apart, use that time to write your own and be heard.
Post this on all your aviation websites. Let them hear a nation wide voice.
Send your emails to:
LIMG(at)chevron.com
kayalbitz(at)chevron.com
or any other fuel company administrator.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197015#197015
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2008_04_2008_04_bulletin_2008_04_chevron_position_autogas_for_aviation_use_449.pdf
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ryan_memo_727.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Las Vegas Area 10 Builders |
Rick
I will be in Las Vegas Thursday shoot me your contact info off list and I
will give you a call when I get there.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
Rick
I will be in Las Vegas Thursday Aug 7 - the 10th.
I will have a lot of time in the evenings to visit.
Shoot me your address and contact info and I will look you up when I get
there.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
When are you going to be here John?
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, August 4, 2008 9:54:45 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Las Vegas Area 10 Builders
Any 10 builders in the Las Vegas area, I will be in Las Vegas for 4 days
and will have free time to visit to talk flying, building ect.
Please contact me
707-479-5895 cell
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes:
Any chance anyone has heard if Rob is going to add a flight path marker to
the AFS EFIS's? Seems like a glaring hole in capability that everyone else
now has and I would think it will be coming in a future release. Too me this
is a big item in an EFIS.
We are currently working on it and it will be in a future release. You
should consider adding the following to your list of EFIS manufacturer glaring
holes:
1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to fly
an approach.
2. Battery backup so that when your master switch or battery contactor fails
you still have an EFIS.
3. Airspace data that is actually updated on the web site every 28 days, for
free.
4. An AHRS that works if and when you lose pitot or gps.
We got back yesterday from Oshkosh in our RV-10 and it now has 61 hours on
it, the more I fly it the more impressed I am with it. The weather, traffic,
built in oxygen, large moving map display, autopilot, and all that room make
it amazingly comfortable to fly on long trips.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Flying
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Hartzell Composite Three blade |
I am going to fly my RV-10 at the same weight and compare the prop directly
with another local unpainted RV-10 with the same engine and ignition.
We did fly with Randy Debauw for much of the trip to Oshkosh so I do have
some idea on how it performs.
Randy has the older two blade Hartzell prop and was around 300 to 400 lbs
lighter than we were with my three kids and all their stuff that just had to go
to Oshkosh in the RV-10. It looked like my RV-10 was around 3 kts slower,
but climbed faster even with the extra weight.
The polished spinner is the same diameter as Van's stock one.
Rob Hickman
N402RH
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
I'm using your AOA so I hope it doesn't have those problems. :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvbuilder@
sausen.net writes:
Any chance anyone has heard if Rob is going to add a flight path marker to
the AFS EFIS's? Seems like a glaring hole in capability that everyone else
now has and I would think it will be coming in a future release. Too me t
his is a big item in an EFIS.
We are currently working on it and it will be in a future release. You sho
uld consider adding the following to your list of EFIS manufacturer glaring
holes:
1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to fly
an approach.
2. Battery backup so that when your master switch or battery contactor fail
s you still have an EFIS.
3. Airspace data that is actually updated on the web site every 28 days, fo
r free.
4. An AHRS that works if and when you lose pitot or gps.
We got back yesterday from Oshkosh in our RV-10 and it now has 61 hours on
it, the more I fly it the more impressed I am with it. The weather, traff
ic, built in oxygen, large moving map display, autopilot, and all that room
make it amazingly comfortable to fly on long trips.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Flying
________________________________
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews
on AOL Autos<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=ao
laut00050000000017>.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
Rob;
Please tell us your developing all this for future releases. I am
already committed to get your AOA and 3500 or DECK so that would be
great news!
Thanks for the info.
Pascal
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes:
Any chance anyone has heard if Rob is going to add a flight path
marker to the AFS EFIS's? Seems like a glaring hole in capability that
everyone else now has and I would think it will be coming in a future
release. Too me this is a big item in an EFIS.
We are currently working on it and it will be in a future release. You
should consider adding the following to your list of EFIS manufacturer
glaring holes:
1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to
fly an approach.
2. Battery backup so that when your master switch or battery contactor
fails you still have an EFIS.
3. Airspace data that is actually updated on the web site every 28 days,
for free.
4. An AHRS that works if and when you lose pitot or gps.
We got back yesterday from Oshkosh in our RV-10 and it now has 61 hours
on it, the more I fly it the more impressed I am with it. The weather,
traffic, built in oxygen, large moving map display, autopilot, and all
that room make it amazingly comfortable to fly on long trips.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Flying
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read
reviews on AOL Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new products |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I have been trying to download the rudder trim drawing from the M.L. Skunkworks
site, but it has exceeded it's daily download limit. Does anybody have a copy
of it in word document or pdf they could send to me?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197057#197057
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Looking for suggestions for a firewall blanket to put on the engine side of the
firewall.
I heard a comment at OSH that it would be good (Cooler in Summer) to insulate both
the inside and outside of the firewall
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197071#197071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
I used coolmat on the firewall side only due to thinking about tunnel heat
problems however the tunnel does not even get warm so maybe it was not
needed . It is winter out here though. I also got rid of those huge heat
muffs that are on the exhausts and just put standard rap around muf saving
at least a couple of Kilos up the front and some perfomance improvement
maybe. Again thinking of tunnel heat which may or may not be a problem to
sum.
rgards chris
VH-ICY 20 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall insulation
>
> Looking for suggestions for a firewall blanket to put on the engine side
> of the firewall.
>
> I heard a comment at OSH that it would be good (Cooler in Summer) to
> insulate both the inside and outside of the firewall
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197071#197071
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
We have installed Kool Mat from Aircraft Spruce. Not flying yet, so
can't report on it. It is pretty heavy stuff, but that is probably a
good thing in our case since we have the air conditioner behind the
baggage compartment.
[URL=http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1405vk3.jpg][IMG]
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/1665/img1405vk3.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
David Maib
40559
endless finishing
On Aug 7, 2008, at 1:14 AM, AirMike wrote:
Looking for suggestions for a firewall blanket to put on the engine
side of the firewall.
I heard a comment at OSH that it would be good (Cooler in Summer) to
insulate both the inside and outside of the firewall
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197071#197071
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Sorry that photo link did not work. Hopefully this will.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197098#197098
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1405_299.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new products |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
David,
Here's the drawing. See attachment.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197110#197110
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rudder_trim_drawing_426.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Everyone,
Every website I posted on and I sent the letters to Flight Design have people
speaking up in support. I have received dozens of emails in support and that is
just since last night.
One voice will dye, but thousands may be heard.
Everyone,
Don't sit ideally and complain. 1-2 minutes of your time is all anyone is asking.
It's your future and your time to offer your hand in a worthwhile effort to
help shape it. Do it for yourself if not for anyone else.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197126#197126
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new products |
So has anyone installed this.... looks like it would work just fine.--
- Thanks
Don McDonald--
#40636-- Finishing the finishing
--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Lenny Iszak wrote:
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: new products
Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 7:09 AM
David,
Here's the drawing. See attachment.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197110#197110
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rudder_trim_drawing_426.jpg
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
According to the Lycoming folks at OSH, they're pushing for an ATSM 93
octane mogas standard. We'll see what comes of it, but I'm lead to
believe the legislative exemption that allows the use of leaded fuel in
airplanes expires in 2010. Supposedly the EPA is interested getting the
ball rolling on an alternative fuel that doesn't compromise safety,
usability, etc etc. Again, we'll see....
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 91 octane, time to be heard!
>
>
> If you are happy with just 100LL stop here. You won't like where this
> is going.
>
> This effects us all even in other countries because one tends to
follow
> the other at some point.
> If you are tired of someone saying we can't have 91 octane, read on.
> It's time to pick a side and take 5 minutes to email. Our lives as
> people are good because someone didn't just say ok. Some took the time
> to make change and made it better for all of us. If we choose to sit
on
> the sideline and just go along then we deserve what we get. I would
> implore all to take a minute and email these two people and any other
> fuel administrator in other companies. I will post on as many aviation
> websites as possible and I would you all to pick a side and stand up
to
> be heard and maybe, just maybe we might effect change. I for one don't
> want to roll over. You are about to read a bulletin about the use of
> Chevron ground fuel verses aviation fuel. Then I have a response.
>
> Don't sit back and pick my memo apart, use that time to write your own
> and be heard. Post this on all your aviation websites. Let them hear a
> nation wide voice.
>
> Send your emails to:
>
> LIMG(at)chevron.com
> kayalbitz(at)chevron.com
>
> or any other fuel company administrator.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Service Center
> 520-574-1080
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197015#197015
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2008_04_2008_04_bulletin_2008_04_che
> vron_position_autogas_for_aviation_use_449.pdf
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ryan_memo_727.doc
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
In a message dated 8/7/2008 3:35:39 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
All systems have some dependency; its in the math. The key is using two
systems with different dependencies or backup round instruments.
There is a major difference with how much dependency different AHRS designs
use and how they will perform under different conditions and with the loss of
aiding. The problem is that the MEMS sensors that are used in AHRS designs
drift with temperature, vibration and age. There is a major difference in
how well the different MEMS gyros behave under changing temperature, age and
vibration and is somewhat related to the cost of the sensors. To make an AHRS
that performs well one must understand how the sensors will perform under
these conditions for each AHRS being manufactured. The less accurate the
sensors are and the less predictable their behavior, more aiding is required.
Crossbow puts every one of their sensors through a 12-hour temperature
calibration cycle three different times to map how each sensor performs. Every
AHRS is
calibrated on a dual-axis ovenized rate table (cost $250,000 each) and the
Magnetometer is calibrated using an expensive Helmholtz cage. The same basic
Crossbow AHRS design that we use is also being used in many certified
aircraft and even regulated Air Taxi operations.
I think Rob was mentioning that list because those are things that the AFS
HAS and most/all of the others lack. Either that or he's not much of a
salesman. :-)
We have had all the items below for a long time.
1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to fly
an approach.
2. Battery backup so that when your master switch or battery contactor fails
you still have an EFIS.
3. Airspace data that is actually updated on the web site every 28 days, for
free.
4. An AHRS that works if and when you lose pitot or gps.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
N402RH RV-10 Flying
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Powder coated parts |
Listers,
Does anyone have a suggestion as to what should be done to a part
that has been treated with powdercoat, but has had some scraped off at
an edge.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder coated parts |
I put Rustolieum over the area and painted it.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 11:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Powder coated parts
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone have a suggestion as to what should be done to a part
> that has been treated with powdercoat, but has had some scraped off at
> an edge.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Powder coated parts |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Van's sells some touchup paint in a bottle that is an exact color match
for the powdercoat.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1218136490-384-99&
browse=misc&product=tu-paint
Bob
N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Godfrey
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 1:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Powder coated parts
Listers,
Does anyone have a suggestion as to what should be done to a part
that has been treated with powdercoat, but has had some scraped off at
an edge.
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
"1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to fly an
approach. "
I find this statement a little strange, although I'm not familiar with the AFS
AoA system. Angle of Attack is Angle of Attack; it doesn't matter if the flaps
are up or down. The stall indication should always be at actual stall. At least
that's true with analog systems. Does the AFS system do something to the raw
data?
John
"old Navy AoA user"
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197182#197182
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
"...but I'm lead to believe the legislative exemption that allows the use of leaded
fuel in airplanes expires in 2010."
This is correct. The 30 year waiver expires in 2010. It's part of a world-wide
treaty banning TEL. To my knowledge, there is only one manufacturer of TEL left,
and it is located somewhere in the UK. The UK has already said they will enforce
the ban, which means that the source will be gone.
The outcome is obvious. They will start filling those AvGas trucks with ordinary
91-93 octane high test (although they might call it something special). Ethanol
is mixed in after manufacture, so there will be a chain-of-control while the
fuel is in transit to ensure it's Ethanol free (assuming the various governments
allow aviation an exemption). Expect to pay plenty for that chain-of control.
You will then be forced to de-rate your engine. I would expect the engine
manufacturers to come out with new horsepower and limitations for their existing
engines. The only real issue will be Takeoff power and Go around. Cruise
should be the same. I guess climb settings might be effected, as well. I guess
the Warbirds at Oshkosh will be a little less impressive to boot.
I've heard that there is a Purdue University group starting a thing called Swiftfuel,
or something like that. It's supposed to be a bio-fuel that can achieve
104 octane - we'll see.
My uneducated guess is that the final solution should be in place by October of
2009, to ensure an uninterrupted supply chain. Whatever the final solution is,
the manufacturers will need to make some kind of commitment before the end of
this year. Have you ever noticed that panic deadlines are the only way Americans
get anything done?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197189#197189
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
In a message dated 8/7/2008 12:26:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
johngoodman(at)earthlink.net writes:
I find this statement a little strange, although I'm not familiar with the
AFS AoA system. Angle of Attack is Angle of Attack; it doesn't matter if the
flaps are up or down. The stall indication should always be at actual stall.
At least that's true with analog systems. Does the AFS system do something to
the raw data?
Best approach, L/D max, and the stalling aoa are a function of the airfoil,
if you drop the flaps you change the airfoil shape. Even the Vane based
Rite-Angle AOA systems have flap position inputs.
I have thee different AOA systems in my RV-4 from two different
manufacturers, there is a significant difference in how well they work.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
SwiftFuel is a real thing and is currently being evaluated by the FAA for a drop
in replacement of 100LL. It's been developed specifically for 100LL replacement
rather than it being a side benefit. Interestingly the feedstock for it
is Ethanol but it's a synthetic hydrocarbon once the process is complete so
there is no Ethanol remaining. If all the benefits hold true and it can be mass
produced, we will be much better off and it will cost less. There have been
articles in Avweb and other places about it. More info here:
http://www.swiftenterprises.com/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 3:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 91 octane, time to be heard!
"...but I'm lead to believe the legislative exemption that allows the use of leaded
fuel in airplanes expires in 2010."
This is correct. The 30 year waiver expires in 2010. It's part of a world-wide
treaty banning TEL. To my knowledge, there is only one manufacturer of TEL left,
and it is located somewhere in the UK. The UK has already said they will enforce
the ban, which means that the source will be gone.
The outcome is obvious. They will start filling those AvGas trucks with ordinary
91-93 octane high test (although they might call it something special). Ethanol
is mixed in after manufacture, so there will be a chain-of-control while the
fuel is in transit to ensure it's Ethanol free (assuming the various governments
allow aviation an exemption). Expect to pay plenty for that chain-of control.
You will then be forced to de-rate your engine. I would expect the engine
manufacturers to come out with new horsepower and limitations for their existing
engines. The only real issue will be Takeoff power and Go around. Cruise
should be the same. I guess climb settings might be effected, as well. I guess
the Warbirds at Oshkosh will be a little less impressive to boot.
I've heard that there is a Purdue University group starting a thing called Swiftfuel,
or something like that. It's supposed to be a bio-fuel that can achieve
104 octane - we'll see.
My uneducated guess is that the final solution should be in place by October of
2009, to ensure an uninterrupted supply chain. Whatever the final solution is,
the manufacturers will need to make some kind of commitment before the end of
this year. Have you ever noticed that panic deadlines are the only way Americans
get anything done?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, the goal was to have N110DV at OSH this year but we missed it by a
couple of days.
40065 is a pretty much standard airplane with Chelton EFIS and
Flightline interior. The paint is BASF base/clearcoat. We are based at
3BS Midland, MI
I will post the before and after paint&interior weights and CGs in a few
days. Flying the airplane after the paint and interior were added makes
a noticable difference with the CG moving aft.
A couple of minor avionics and interior issues remain and then the
traveling will begin! While this is a totally different airplane than
the RV4 we built it is a ball to fly and as others have noted should be
a very practical cross country machine.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
So I'm not trying to start any EFIS wars or anything but I notice that
Dynon has a AOA system:
http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D180_Feature_AOA.html
In reading the points below am I'm to believe that the dynon system
doesn't work well with flaps and cannot be used to fly an approach?
Again, I'm not trying to start anything but rather I'm trying to
understand the relative benefits of the AFS AOA vs the Dynon AOA.
Perhaps Rob, or someone else, can shed some light here.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:27:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes:
Any chance anyone has heard if Rob is going to add a flight path
marker to the AFS EFIS's? Seems like a glaring hole in capability that
everyone else now has and I would think it will be coming in a future
release. Too me this is a big item in an EFIS.
We are currently working on it and it will be in a future release. You
should consider adding the following to your list of EFIS manufacturer
glaring holes:
1. AOA that work properly with the flaps up and down and can be used to
fly an approach.
2. Battery backup so that when your master switch or battery contactor
fails you still have an EFIS.
3. Airspace data that is actually updated on the web site every 28 days,
for free.
4. An AHRS that works if and when you lose pitot or gps.
We got back yesterday from Oshkosh in our RV-10 and it now has 61 hours
on it, the more I fly it the more impressed I am with it. The weather,
traffic, built in oxygen, large moving map display, autopilot, and all
that room make it amazingly comfortable to fly on long trips.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Flying
________________________________
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read
reviews on AOL Autos
<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000500
0
0000017> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator root rib and gusset |
| From: | "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net> |
Hi,
I am to the point of setting the rivets from the root rib to the gusset and can't
seem to come up with a good way of doing it. The plans say to rivet the root
rib to the rear spar first. I did that but the thing is so tight that I can't
get a set straight on the manufactured head either with a squeezer or rivet
gun. I have the manufactured head on the outside.
If I take out the 3/32 rivets connecting the rear spar to the root rib it would
give me a little more room but not sure if it would be enough.
Maybe I'm not seeing something.
Thanks for any help in advance,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197216#197216
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010017_135.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator root rib and gusset |
| From: | "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net> |
9-14
After looking at it again with better lighting I found that with trying all sorts
of angles of holding the squeezer I was able to get it. The set on the squeezer
did have to ride the edge of the spar but I got two nice shop heads. A
little primer touch up where the set rubbed and I'll call that step done.
Thanks for the quick reply,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197222#197222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Ok guy's, I'm at the end of my rope here, I need help. I've tried
everything I can find to make my LSE tach work in conjunction with a
Bendix mag. The mag signal to my EIS6000 works just fine, but the
Lightspeed tach just won't work. I know some of you have it working,
how's it done?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
Current avgas has exactly the same chain of control. There are other
solutions, just each have technical issues. MTBE for example is around 104
octane, but any leaks contaminate soil and water very easily. ETBE is even
higher octane, a bit more costly and presumably less of environmental
problem. (MTBE is derived from methanol, ETBE from ethanol). Current avgas,
minus the TEL can be blended to 96 octane, which is okay for all but
turbocharged engines. The IO-540 used in the RV-10 with 8.5 compression will
be fine with anything over 91 octane as it was originally certified on
91/96, just like the O-360 with same compression. So main issue is getting
suppliers and FBOs to agree with ASTM as to what the standard is going to
be. As has been mentioned before, Lycoming is close to having a FADEC system
that will incorporate knock sensing and timing adjustment.
On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 1:11 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> "...but I'm lead to believe the legislative exemption that allows the use
> of leaded fuel in airplanes expires in 2010."
>
> This is correct. The 30 year waiver expires in 2010. It's part of a
> world-wide treaty banning TEL. To my knowledge, there is only one
> manufacturer of TEL left, and it is located somewhere in the UK. The UK has
> already said they will enforce the ban, which means that the source will be
> gone.
> The outcome is obvious. They will start filling those AvGas trucks with
> ordinary 91-93 octane high test (although they might call it something
> special). Ethanol is mixed in after manufacture, so there will be a
> chain-of-control while the fuel is in transit to ensure it's Ethanol free
> (assuming the various governments allow aviation an exemption). Expect to
> pay plenty for that chain-of control. You will then be forced to de-rate
> your engine. I would expect the engine manufacturers to come out with new
> horsepower and limitations for their existing engines. The only real issue
> will be Takeoff power and Go around. Cruise should be the same. I guess
> climb settings might be effected, as well. I guess the Warbirds at Oshkosh
> will be a little less impressive to boot.
> I've heard that there is a Purdue University group starting a thing called
> Swiftfuel, or something like that. It's supposed to be a bio-fuel that can
> achieve 104 octane - we'll see.
> My uneducated guess is that the final solution should be in place by
> October of 2009, to ensure an uninterrupted supply chain. Whatever the final
> solution is, the manufacturers will need to make some kind of commitment
> before the end of this year. Have you ever noticed that panic deadlines are
> the only way Americans get anything done?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197189#197189
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Looks great Dick!
So are you happy with the paint shop? I talked with them when they were
here in Columbus last fall. They seemed like great people. They helped me
get a very nice insurance settlement on my Cherokee.
I was heading home on Saturday, when I realized I hadn't seen you or your
plane. I was really looking forwarded to seeing it. If you head down to
any of the Ohio RVators UFO, please let me know. I want to make sure to be
there to see your great looking RV-10.
Bob Leffler
#40684
Mykitlog.com/rleffler
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard sipp
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 5:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pictures N110DV
Well, the goal was to have N110DV at OSH this year but we missed it by a
couple of days.
40065 is a pretty much standard airplane with Chelton EFIS and Flightline
interior. The paint is BASF base/clearcoat. We are based at 3BS Midland, MI
I will post the before and after paint&interior weights and CGs in a few
days. Flying the airplane after the paint and interior were added makes a
noticable difference with the CG moving aft.
A couple of minor avionics and interior issues remain and then the traveling
will begin! While this is a totally different airplane than the RV4 we
built it is a ball to fly and as others have noted should be a very
practical cross country machine.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems EFIS |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> Best approach, L/D max, and the stalling aoa are a function of the airfoil, if
you drop the flaps you change the airfoil shape. Even the Vane based Rite-Angle
AOA systems have flap position inputs.
>
> I have thee different AOA systems in my RV-4 from two different manufacturers,
there is a significant difference in how well they work.
>
> Rob Hickman
> N402RH RV-10
Rob,
You are correct but flaps do more that change the shape of the wing. They change
the angle of incidence. The part of the wing out at the ailerons is actually
moved to a lower angle of attack due to that change. That's why the tail (behind
the flaps) will stall first with washout. The wing is still flying and the
ailerons are too. I think the key here is Absolute AoA versus Geometric AoA.
If systems are making corrections to AoA, then they must be using some kind of
a Geometric AoA. A stall vane that measures nothing but the Absolute AoA will
indicate the exact same angle at stall for flaps up or flaps down.
I am not an expert so I'm sure somebody out there will make a better case. My original
bewilderment was about the statement that the AFS system AoA is not fully
usable with the flaps in a certain position.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197236#197236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pictures N110DV |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Dick,
VERY nice!
Any thoughts about my earlier comment on clear coating more than one color? To
state it again, I understand that the clear is supposed to be applied from 40
min to 2hrs. after the color is applied in order to get a good bond between the
color and clear -- otherwise the clear can peel off in a couple of years.
I've base/cleared urethane several cars over the years with great results, but
never tri color, stripes etc. So I'm wondering if they waited for the color to
dry enough to tape, second color and more time/tape, stripes, etc. THEN cleared?
Or if they cleared each color as they went? That would be really time consuming
and tough to blend the clear without showing the seams.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197237#197237
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com> |
According to several engine manufacturs if you have standard pistons 8.5:1 you
can run 92 MOGAS all day long. I've been burning it for years.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197248#197248
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pictures N110DV |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I used House of Colors paint on my RV8. I applied the base coat a few weeks before
the graphics artist could get to the plane. It took him 5 months of part
time evening painting to get the graphics on the airplane. After he finished,
I applied the clear coat. It took 3 days to put the clear coat on the airplane.
1 day to do the fuselage and 1 day to do the wings. One more day was used
to paint the small pieces. The norm for putting the clear coat on is usually
24 hours. The graphics artist told me a light scuffing will provide enough
grit for the clear coat to attach. After 7 years and 820 hours, the paint is
still a 10 with no hint of clear coat lifting. You can see the paint process
on my web site. I plan on painting my RV10 with the same process.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197267#197267
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flight16_107.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Sam,
I'm not sure if this is what you're after, but here is a schematic to get
two tach signals into a single input so you can do a mag check and see the
actual indicated RPM.
If you need to convert the LSE signal to something the EIS can handle, I'm
sure either vendor can help you out there.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pictures N110DV |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Greg (& Dick),
Thanks for the responses. Greg, that's what I'm looking for -- some real world
data and technique. Man, what a paint job! And LOT'S of labor!
Others have been concerned with the weight of multiple coats, especially clear.
Not a real factor?
Since most (if not all) of these family members will be hangared, I'm wondering
if that also is a factor with the peeling. As opposed to cars which are exposed
to UV, heat, weather, etc. constantly.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197289#197289
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck |
I figured some other people might find the below info useful......
-----Original Message-----
From: Gus Funnell [mailto:gusf(at)vansaircraft.com]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
No problem - the fuselage is rigid enough with the side and bottom skins
riveted on to add the engine weight.
Vans
On 7 Aug 2008 at 10:12, Michael Sausen wrote:
Forwarded by: "Support"
Forwarded to: Gusf
From: Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
> I am still deciding on panel components but I want to get my
> airframe up on its gear and the engine hung. The cabin top is on.
> Do you see any problem with hanging the engine prior to having the
> upper forward fuselage deck in place?
>
> Michael Sausen
> RV-10 40352
>
****E-MAIL PRIVILEGED INFORMATION****
(applicable to any email sent from Van's Aircraft, Inc.
or any employee of Van's Aircraft, Inc.)
This email message is for the sole use of the
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized
review, use, disclosure or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended
recipient, please contact the sender by reply
email and destroy all copies of the original
message. If you are the intended recipient,
please be advised that the content of this message
is subject to access, review and disclosure by the
sender's Email System Administrator.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck |
Thanks for that. After talking to a few people at Osh (perhaps you), I
decided to do the same. Nice to know that Vans agrees.
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I figured some other people might find the below info useful......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gus Funnell [mailto:gusf(at)vansaircraft.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:14 AM
> To: Michael Sausen
> Subject: Re: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
>
> No problem - the fuselage is rigid enough with the side and bottom skins
> riveted on to add the engine weight.
>
> Vans
>
> On 7 Aug 2008 at 10:12, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Forwarded by: "Support"
> Forwarded to: Gusf
> From: Michael Sausen <michael(at)sausen.net>
> To: "support(at)vansaircraft.com"
>
> Subject: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
>
>
>> I am still deciding on panel components but I want to get my
>> airframe up on its gear and the engine hung. The cabin top is on.
>> Do you see any problem with hanging the engine prior to having the
>> upper forward fuselage deck in place?
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>> RV-10 40352
>>
>>
>
>
> ****E-MAIL PRIVILEGED INFORMATION****
> (applicable to any email sent from Van's Aircraft, Inc.
> or any employee of Van's Aircraft, Inc.)
>
> This email message is for the sole use of the
> intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
> and privileged information. Any unauthorized
> review, use, disclosure or distribution is
> prohibited. If you are not the intended
> recipient, please contact the sender by reply
> email and destroy all copies of the original
> message. If you are the intended recipient,
> please be advised that the content of this message
> is subject to access, review and disclosure by the
> sender's Email System Administrator.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck |
That is the way I did mine...I had no problems.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
Thanks for that. After talking to a few people at Osh (perhaps you), I
decided to do the same. Nice to know that Vans agrees.
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
I figured some other people might find the below info useful......
-----Original Message-----
From: Gus Funnell [mailto:gusf(at)vansaircraft.com]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
No problem - the fuselage is rigid enough with the side and bottom skins
riveted on to add the engine weight.
Vans
On 7 Aug 2008 at 10:12, Michael Sausen wrote:
Forwarded by: "Support"
Forwarded to: Gusf
From: Michael Sausen <mailto:michael(at)sausen.net> <michael(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck
I am still deciding on panel components but I want to get my
airframe up on its gear and the engine hung. The cabin top is on.
Do you see any problem with hanging the engine prior to having the
upper forward fuselage deck in place?
Michael Sausen
RV-10 40352
****E-MAIL PRIVILEGED INFORMATION****
(applicable to any email sent from Van's Aircraft, Inc.
or any employee of Van's Aircraft, Inc.)
This email message is for the sole use of the
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized
review, use, disclosure or distribution is
prohibited. If you are not the intended
recipient, please contact the sender by reply
email and destroy all copies of the original
message. If you are the intended recipient,
please be advised that the content of this message
is subject to access, review and disclosure by the
sender's Email System Administrator.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 upper forward fuselage deck |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
msausen wrote:
> I figured some other people might find the below info useful......
>
> --
Did something get deleted? What 'below info'?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197352#197352
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pant Support Nuts - Nylock to all metal nut |
After I returned from Oshkosh I had to change the oil and was checking the whole
plane out to make sure everything was in tip top shape. I noticed that I had
developed a little bit of play in my main wheel pants and thought I had better
pull it all apart and look into it. I could move the back of the wheel pant
up and down about 3/8 (right) to 1/2" (left).
There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket in place and they were a little loose.
Since they go through some aluminum spacers and had some leverage I thought they
might have just deformed the aluminum and needed to be tightened. Unfortunately
you have to pull the wheel off to get to the other side of these bolts.
After pulling the wheel I noticed that the nuts had lost most of their locking
function. Van's recommends a nylock bolt. I know I have had those brakes hot
in the past and most likely overheated the elastic material in the nut. I could
almost turn them off by hand. So I am not sure if the bolts backed off or
just became looser because of some deformation of the aluminum where the spacer
and bracket touch but I thought I had better use something different.
If you are still building or have the wheels off sometime you may want to replace
these bolts with an all metal nut stop style nut (picture attached). (Or you
could go with cross-drilled rotors with dual caliper Brembo brakes to reduce
heating)
By doing this the nuts would help them be less susceptible to the heat and possible
loosening.
On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III tires are wearing so much less than
the stock tires.
I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are wearing at
all. I'm very impressed.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | California RV-10 Builders |
I am leaving Saturday morning and heading to Redlands CA to visit my brother for
a few days and wanted to some help contacting a couple of builders around the
area.
There is one RV-10 located at Redlands and one at French Valley. I believe the
RV-10 at Redlands is flying and they are still building the one at French Valley.
If anyone has any contact information that would be great. I have met both and
would enjoy seeing their progress.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pant Support Nuts - Nylock to all metal nut |
After I returned from Oshkosh I had to change the oil and was checking the whole
plane out to make sure everything was in tip top shape. I noticed that I had
developed a little bit of play in my main wheel pants and thought I had better
pull it all apart and look into it. I could move the back of the wheel pant
up and down about 3/8 (right) to 1/2" (left).
There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket in place and they were a little loose.
Since they go through some aluminum spacers and had some leverage I thought they
might have just deformed the aluminum and needed to be tightened. Unfortunately
you have to pull the wheel off to get to the other side of these bolts.
After pulling the wheel I noticed that the nuts had lost most of their locking
function. Van's recommends a nylock bolt. I know I have had those brakes hot
in the past and most likely overheated the elastic material in the nut. I could
almost turn them off by hand. So I am not sure if the bolts backed off or
just became looser because of some deformation of the aluminum where the spacer
and bracket touch but I thought I had better use something different.
If you are still building or have the wheels off sometime you may want to replace
these bolts with an all metal nut stop style nut (picture attached). (Or you
could go with cross-drilled rotors with dual caliper Brembo brakes to reduce
heating)
By doing this the nuts would help them be less susceptible to the heat and possible
loosening.
On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III tires are wearing so much less than
the stock tires.
I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are wearing at
all. I'm very impressed.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | California RV-10 Builders |
I am leaving Saturday morning and heading to Redlands CA to visit my brother for
a few days and wanted to some help contacting a couple of builders around the
area.
There is one RV-10 located at Redlands and one at French Valley. I believe the
RV-10 at Redlands is flying and they are still building the one at French Valley.
If anyone has any contact information that would be great. I have met both and
would enjoy seeing their progress.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | QB remove upper fuselage deck top skin ? |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
The QB fuselage comes with the Fwd Fuse topskin (L-1071) already attached to the
rib subassembly. I'd like to keep access to this area while running wires and
adding parts.
Does it make sense to drill out the rivets on the topskin, remove it, install subassembly
and reinstall topskin when further along?
Electronics are just being ordered now. I can do my cuts on subpanels since I'm
pretty close to final layout in Autocad.
Thoughts appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197380#197380
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: California RV-10 Builders |
Scott
I know of an RV-10 builder at French Valley that is flying.
His name is Mark Chamberlain
Cell phone is 951 283-6473.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt
To: RV-10 List
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 4:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: California RV-10 Builders
I am leaving Saturday morning and heading to Redlands CA to visit my
brother for a few days and wanted to some help contacting a couple of
builders around the area.
There is one RV-10 located at Redlands and one at French Valley. I
believe the RV-10 at Redlands is flying and they are still building the
one at French Valley.
If anyone has any contact information that would be great. I have met
both and would enjoy seeing their progress.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pant Support Nuts - Nylock to all metal nut |
I think if you look closer-you will find the U1008 spacer has galled the
large bracket giving you the impression that the nuts have backed off. Real
problem is a washer is needed between the U1008 and the bracket and make n
ew spacers out of 1/2" AL rod or add steel sleeves to the existing U1008. T
hen you will be able to tighten the three bolts.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Scott Schmidt wrote:
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pant Support Nuts - Nylock to all metal nut
Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 4:41 PM
After I returned from Oshkosh I had to change the oil and was checking the
whole plane out to make sure everything was in tip top shape.- I noticed
that I had developed a little bit of play in my main wheel pants and though
t I had better pull it all apart and look into it.- I could move the back
of the wheel pant up and down about 3/8 (right) to 1/2" (left).
There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket in place and they were a little loo
se.- Since they go through some aluminum spacers and had some leverage I
thought they might have just deformed the aluminum and needed to be tighten
ed.- Unfortunately you have to pull the wheel off to get to the other sid
e of these bolts.
-
After pulling the wheel I noticed that the nuts had lost most of their lock
ing function. Van's recommends a nylock bolt.- I know I have had those br
akes hot in the past and most likely overheated the elastic material in the
nut.- I could almost turn them off by hand.- So I am not sure if the b
olts backed off or just became looser because of some deformation of the al
uminum where the spacer and bracket touch but I thought I had better use so
mething different.
If you are still building or have the wheels off sometime you may want to r
eplace these bolts with an all metal nut stop style nut (picture attached).
- (Or you could go with cross-drilled rotors with dual caliper Brembo bra
kes to reduce heating)
By doing this the nuts would help them be less susceptible to the heat and
possible loosening.
On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III tires are wearing so much les
s than the stock tires.-
I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are weari
ng at all.- I'm very impressed.-
-Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB remove upper fuselage deck top skin ? |
Keep the entire deck off, not just the top skin. You can finish the
canopy and doors and install the engine with the entire deck off. You
will not be able to install the windshield or engine cowling.
Larry
tomhanaway wrote:
>
> The QB fuselage comes with the Fwd Fuse topskin (L-1071) already attached to
the rib subassembly. I'd like to keep access to this area while running wires
and adding parts.
>
> Does it make sense to drill out the rivets on the topskin, remove it, install
subassembly and reinstall topskin when further along?
>
> Electronics are just being ordered now. I can do my cuts on subpanels since
I'm pretty close to final layout in Autocad.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197380#197380
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sam(at)fr8dog.net" <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
This is pretty much the way I wired it, but it only works on the mag side with
this configuration.
LSE is no help,and I did the EIS mod, still dosen't work.
---- Dave Saylor wrote:
============
Sam,
I'm not sure if this is what you're after, but here is a schematic to get
two tach signals into a single input so you can do a mag check and see the
actual indicated RPM.
If you need to convert the LSE signal to something the EIS can handle, I'm
sure either vendor can help you out there.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Hullo Everyone,
Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to remove the main under
carriage brackets from their QB fuselage?
There was a link some time ago where the question was asked how people had managed
to remove the bolts and after many hours I have succeded in that. Apparently
most were defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those floors,
installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB came with the front cabin
floors temporarily in place. To be able to remove them you need to remove the
u/c brackets.
Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the u/c brackets out because
you need to pull them forwards whilst at the same time dropping the front
attachment bar of the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed to solve the puzzle
short of destroying the front floors - Tim's log stated that his floors were
not supplied with his kit and he did not have this problem.
I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
Many thanks,
Rodger 40437
__________________________________________________________
Not happy with your email address?.
Get the one you really want - millions of new email addresses available now at Yahoo! http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Roger,
It is possible! I did it so as to put sound insulation in that area.
I do remember it took a lot of head scratching and a few @#$%^& words
helped, but I don't remember the specifics.
Sorry no pictures. Wish I could help more, but the answer to your
question is yes, it can, and has, been done but is not easy.
Dave Lammers
Finishing forever
Rodger Todd wrote:
>
>Hullo Everyone,
>
>Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to remove the main under
carriage brackets from their QB fuselage?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Roger,
I went through the arduous process of removing the undercarriage
brackets to get the front floor panels out. There was much swearing and
numerous skinned knuckles. Not a fun project.
To keep from having to do this ever again should the need arise to get
under the front floor panels I decided to modify the outboard aft corner
of the floor panel. I cut the panel diagonally at a 45 deg. a couple of
inches out from the corner and attached it permanently under the gear
leg bracket brace. I then fashioned an aluminum brace under the floor
that I could pop rivet the two floor pieces to along the seam.
I can't say that I would relish the thought of doing it again but at the
time I rightly decided to gain access to the area under the front floors
so that I could put the sound insulation in and to inspect the work done
overseas.
Dave 40164
Rodger Todd wrote:
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to remove the main under
carriage brackets from their QB fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked how people had managed
to remove the bolts and after many hours I have succeded in that. Apparently
most were defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those floors,
installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB came with the front cabin
floors temporarily in place. To be able to remove them you need to remove the
u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the u/c brackets out because
you need to pull them forwards whilst at the same time dropping the front
attachment bar of the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed to solve the puzzle
short of destroying the front floors - Tim's log stated that his floors were
not supplied with his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email addresses available now at Yahoo! http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to remove the main under
carriage brackets from their QB fuselage?
I didn't bother. I used a reamer for the match drilling, and you can vacuum out
through the lightening holes on the aft side. I did check the torque on the bolts.
I'm giving all my business to Bose when it comes to sound.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197545#197545
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the B&C 20
Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked with Casper
Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they have been unable to make
fit.
Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the remote firewall
oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit before I order
the kit.
If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount with the 1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pictures N110DV |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Lew,
With the new paints available today, I don't think the weather has as much effect
on the clears. This wasn't the case with the old clears including the lacquers.
Keeping the airplanes hangared can really help protect the paint from the
elements.
As far as the weight, the 13 colors applied over the clear coat probably have a
total weight of many 2 and three color paint schemes. Even though I applied
4 coats of clear over the paint, there is probably 2 coats at the most left after
color sanding and polishing.
Forgot to say in last posting... Great paint scheme and nice paint on Dick's RV10.
The tip picture really shows the metallic paint.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197559#197559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
MAPA has a remote mount oil filter and the filters if you want to go
that route. I put it in series with my oil cooler on my Pitts.
Linn
do not arcdhive
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the B&C
20 Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked with Casper
Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they have been unable to
make fit.
>
> Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the remote firewall
oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit before I order
the kit.
>
> If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount with the 1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You can get a spacer and replacement shear coupling for the alternator from BandC
that will allow them to coexist fine. Talk to Bill and he'll know exactly
what you need.
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat Aug 09 14:17:19 2008
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter
I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the B&C 20
Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked with Casper
Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they have been unable to make
fit.
Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the remote firewall
oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit before I order
the kit.
If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount with the 1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB remove upper fuselage deck top skin ? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Amen brother. Makes the wiring and panel works a bunch easier. I did not pull the
top skin as the work on the Q/B is sooo good that I did not want to disrupt
it's great appearance
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197579#197579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
I have the AirWolf remote oil and the B&C SD-20 and they work together
fine.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the B&C
20 Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked with Casper
Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they have been unable to
make fit.
>
> Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the remote firewall
oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit before I order
the kit.
>
> If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount with the 1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Thanks Bob, I will call B&C first thing Monday AM.
David Maib
40559
On Aug 9, 2008, at 4:38 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
You can get a spacer and replacement shear coupling for the
alternator from BandC that will allow them to coexist fine. Talk to
Bill and he'll know exactly what you need.
Bob
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-
server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat Aug 09 14:17:19 2008
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter
I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with
the B&C 20 Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I
talked with Casper Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination
they have been unable to make fit.
Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the
remote firewall oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that
will fit before I order the kit.
If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount
with the 1.5 inch spacer, contact me offline.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I was still very new to this whole process when I ran into the same problem
....- after not receiving much from anyone, I got on the milling machine
and fabricated my own.... I know that's not much help.... but in case my do
esn't work, let me know what you find out.
Don McDonald
#40636--
Finshing the finishing.
--- On Sat, 8/9/08, dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
From: dmaib(at)mac.com <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 2:17 PM
I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the
B&C 20 Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked
with Casper Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they have be
en
unable to make fit.
Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the remote
firewall oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit before
I
order the kit.
If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount with the
1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Thanks Don. When I talked to Casper Labs, they suggested that milling
the spacer to a custom size might work. I will let you know what I
find out from B&C.
David Maib
On Aug 9, 2008, at 9:17 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
I was still very new to this whole process when I ran into the same
problem.... after not receiving much from anyone, I got on the
milling machine and fabricated my own.... I know that's not much
help.... but in case my doesn't work, let me know what you find out.
Don McDonald
#40636
Finshing the finishing.
--- On Sat, 8/9/08, dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
From: dmaib(at)mac.com <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 2:17 PM
I discovered that the 90 degree oil filter adapter will not fit with the
B&C 20 Amp back-up alternator installed on the vacuum pump pad. I talked
with Casper Labs and they confirmed that this is a combination they
have been
unable to make fit.
Does anybody with the B&C SD-20 mounted on the vacuum pad have the
remote
firewall oil filter kit installed? I want to make sure that will fit
before I
order the kit.
If anybody is interested in buying my Casper Labs 90 degree mount
with the 1.5
inch spacer, contact me offline.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197558#197558
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
There are several RV-10 folks with the B&C angled oil filter adapter and SD-20
combo. Specific problem is that the oil filter adapter requires a spacer to provide
clearance from the engine mount. When that is done the filter adapter
interferes with the body of the SD-20 alternator. B&C has a package "kit" for
that situation. The kit includes replacement studs for the vacuum pad, a spacer
for the SD-20, 2 gaskets and a replacement shear coupling for the SD-20.
It's a bit of a pain when the engine is already installed but pretty easy if not
yet hung.
I'm very happy with my install of the above but frankly if I was doing it again,
I'd look hard at a remote oil filter instead. While the angled filter gives
you better access than the stock setup, the remote filter would be a HUGE leap
forward. You add complexity, fittings, hoses, weight, etc. with the remote
solution but in the end I suspect the price is about the same (angled oil filter
adapter + SD-20 spacer kit together about equal to a remote solution) and access
would be even better. There is a lot of space available on the lower right
portion of the firewall for a remote oil filter mount.
Bob
N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197712#197712
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: resin and stuff |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The white, gel coated parts (wing tips and tips for the empenage) are polyester
resin. The cabin top, doors, cowl, empenage fairing, wheel pants and gear leg
fairings are epoxy resin. You can use epoxy with either, polyester can be used
only with the polyester resin parts.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197714#197714
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Bob, I know we had this conversation at the show. I will be installing
the SD-20 and understand that the stock oil filter mount probably
works. But most people seem intent on replacing the stock mount with a
90degree bracket or remote bracket.
Can any of you flyers with the stock mount comment on the servicability
of the stock location and the desirability of an alternative?
BTW, those of you preparing to discuss this with B&C - I talked to Bill
during the show about the problem with the SD-20 and the 90degree
mount. He professed total ignorance of the problem (?). My guess is
that I wasn't precise enough in describing the conflict... but you'd
think he'd know what I was trying to talk about since they are both his
products. Be prepared for initial denial.
Thanks for the insight here Bob.
Bill "with dozens of 4.25" wide instruments dancing in his head" Watson
bcondrey wrote:
>
> There are several RV-10 folks with the B&C angled oil filter adapter and SD-20
combo. Specific problem is that the oil filter adapter requires a spacer to
provide clearance from the engine mount. When that is done the filter adapter
interferes with the body of the SD-20 alternator. B&C has a package "kit" for
that situation. The kit includes replacement studs for the vacuum pad, a spacer
for the SD-20, 2 gaskets and a replacement shear coupling for the SD-20.
It's a bit of a pain when the engine is already installed but pretty easy if
not yet hung.
>
> I'm very happy with my install of the above but frankly if I was doing it again,
I'd look hard at a remote oil filter instead. While the angled filter gives
you better access than the stock setup, the remote filter would be a HUGE leap
forward. You add complexity, fittings, hoses, weight, etc. with the remote
solution but in the end I suspect the price is about the same (angled oil filter
adapter + SD-20 spacer kit together about equal to a remote solution) and
access would be even better. There is a lot of space available on the lower
right portion of the firewall for a remote oil filter mount.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Don't know what the magic words are (maybe IO-540 instead of RV-10) but a Colorado
Springs RV-10 builder friend of mine just got the SD-20 spacer stuff from
them about a month ago.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197730#197730
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: resin and stuff |
Thanks Bob. I'm comfortable using both, and like to stick with same
stuff. Don't know why, I just do. I have an assortment of resins;
polyester, vinylester, epoxy ....... even stuff they use on pre-preg
..... but I don't really know what it is ..... cures with heat rather
than a catalyst.
As an aside, the polyester and vinylester fiberglass can be re-molded
with judicious application of heat. I don't think the epoxy will become
plastic without destroying it's properties.
Linn
bcondrey wrote:
>
> The white, gel coated parts (wing tips and tips for the empenage) are polyester
resin. The cabin top, doors, cowl, empenage fairing, wheel pants and gear
leg fairings are epoxy resin. You can use epoxy with either, polyester can be
used only with the polyester resin parts.
>
> Bob
> N442PM (flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197714#197714
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: resin and stuff |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Dave,
Thanks for the catch - vinylester not polyester is correct. Must have not had
the brain totally engaged...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197741#197741
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Bill,
Having done hundreds of oil changes in the last 25 years, I can tell you
that if keeping the engine clean is important to you, you want the 90 degree
adapter. That's what I have. The remote firewall mounted unit would do an
even better job but I skipped it for cost and weight considerations. Also,
I don't have anything on the vac drive pad.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Oil Filter
Bob, I know we had this conversation at the show. I will be installing the
SD-20 and understand that the stock oil filter mount probably works. But
most people seem intent on replacing the stock mount with a 90degree bracket
or remote bracket.
Can any of you flyers with the stock mount comment on the servicability of
the stock location and the desirability of an alternative?
BTW, those of you preparing to discuss this with B&C - I talked to Bill
during the show about the problem with the SD-20 and the 90degree mount. He
professed total ignorance of the problem (?). My guess is that I wasn't
precise enough in describing the conflict... but you'd think he'd know what
I was trying to talk about since they are both his products. Be prepared
for initial denial.
Thanks for the insight here Bob.
Bill "with dozens of 4.25" wide instruments dancing in his head" Watson
bcondrey wrote:
> -->
>
> There are several RV-10 folks with the B&C angled oil filter adapter and
SD-20 combo. Specific problem is that the oil filter adapter requires a
spacer to provide clearance from the engine mount. When that is done the
filter adapter interferes with the body of the SD-20 alternator. B&C has a
package "kit" for that situation. The kit includes replacement studs for
the vacuum pad, a spacer for the SD-20, 2 gaskets and a replacement shear
coupling for the SD-20. It's a bit of a pain when the engine is already
installed but pretty easy if not yet hung.
>
> I'm very happy with my install of the above but frankly if I was doing it
again, I'd look hard at a remote oil filter instead. While the angled
filter gives you better access than the stock setup, the remote filter would
be a HUGE leap forward. You add complexity, fittings, hoses, weight, etc.
with the remote solution but in the end I suspect the price is about the
same (angled oil filter adapter + SD-20 spacer kit together about equal to a
remote solution) and access would be even better. There is a lot of space
available on the lower right portion of the firewall for a remote oil filter
mount.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Re: resin and stuff |
Bob, I saw your note and looked it up--Van's calls it polyester in Ch. 5 but
I'm pretty sure the latest parts are vinyl ester. I'm gonna look into it
tomorrow because now I'm wondering.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: resin and stuff
Dave,
Thanks for the catch - vinylester not polyester is correct. Must have not
had the brain totally engaged...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197741#197741
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I know I have posted this in the past but note that Mattituck TMX engines come
standard with a 2.5" spacer with the included angle oil filter adapter. I've
seen installations of the SD-20 on these engines with no interference. Mattituck
offers this separately for $282. You may want to go with the Mattituck 90
degree adapter rather than the B&C adapter since it eliminates the interference
issues and is less expensive. The Mattituck version is PMA'd/STC for $282
where as the uncertified B&C version is $395 + $53 for the 2.5" spacer.
http://mattituck.com/oil%20filter%20adapter%20add.pdf
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> There are several RV-10 folks with the B&C angled oil filter adapter and SD-20
combo. Specific problem is that the oil filter adapter requires a spacer to
provide clearance from the engine mount. When that is done the filter adapter
interferes with the body of the SD-20 alternator. B&C has a package "kit" for
that situation. The kit includes replacement studs for the vacuum pad, a spacer
for the SD-20, 2 gaskets and a replacement shear coupling for the SD-20.
It's a bit of a pain when the engine is already installed but pretty easy if
not yet hung.
>
> I'm very happy with my install of the above but frankly if I was doing it again,
I'd look hard at a remote oil filter instead. While the angled filter gives
you better access than the stock setup, the remote filter would be a HUGE leap
forward. You add complexity, fittings, hoses, weight, etc. with the remote
solution but in the end I suspect the price is about the same (angled oil filter
adapter + SD-20 spacer kit together about equal to a remote solution) and
access would be even better. There is a lot of space available on the lower
right portion of the firewall for a remote oil filter mount.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197712#197712
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Scott-what tubes are you using?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less than
the stock tires.
I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
wearing at all. I'm very impressed.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Scott's in California so I'll respond for him:
I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight
Custom III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6. I'm not sure about
the difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity
between a 6.00 and a 6.00-6. So far, so good on the tubes but I have
only had them for one month. The tires are defiantly more beefy.
I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly.
Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra
money. My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on
the Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness
is quite a bit more. Here is some data that Dresser posts on their
site.
http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html
http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html
http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT
Good luck.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
From: Albert Gardner
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 5:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tires
Scott-what tubes are you using?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less
than the stock tires.
I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
wearing at all. I'm very impressed.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You can get just as much wear, if not more on a standard Desser recap,
and get 2 or 3 tires from the price of one of the GY FCIII tires. The
savings will let you buy fuel for 2-3 hours of flying. ;-)
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:21 PM, pascal wrote:
> Scott's in California so I'll respond for him:
> I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight Custom
> III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6. I'm not sure about the
> difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity between a
> 6.00 and a 6.00-6. So far, so good on the tubes but I have only had them
> for one month. The tires are defiantly more beefy.
> I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly.
>
> Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra
> money. My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on the
> Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness is quite
> a bit more. Here is some data that Dresser posts on their site.
> http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html
>
> http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html
> http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT
>
> Good luck.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
> From: Albert Gardner
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 5:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: tires
>
> Scott-what tubes are you using?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less than
> the stock tires.
> I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
> wearing at all. I'm very impressed.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Check out Tim's site on that review and his impressions-
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tires
>
> You can get just as much wear, if not more on a standard Desser recap,
> and get 2 or 3 tires from the price of one of the GY FCIII tires. The
> savings will let you buy fuel for 2-3 hours of flying. ;-)
>
> On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:21 PM, pascal wrote:
>> Scott's in California so I'll respond for him:
>> I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight
>> Custom
>> III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6. I'm not sure about the
>> difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity between a
>> 6.00 and a 6.00-6. So far, so good on the tubes but I have only had them
>> for one month. The tires are defiantly more beefy.
>> I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly.
>>
>> Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra
>> money. My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on
>> the
>> Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness is
>> quite
>> a bit more. Here is some data that Dresser posts on their site.
>> http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html
>>
>> http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html
>> http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>> From: Albert Gardner
>> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 5:58 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: tires
>>
>> Scott-what tubes are you using?
>>
>> Albert Gardner
>>
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less
>> than
>> the stock tires.
>> I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
>> wearing at all. I'm very impressed.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I purposely did not mention the Monster Retread, as there are issues
when you put more tread on a tire than it started with.
I have been using Desser retreads for almost 15 years on both a Cessna
170 and on a Mooney M20E with no vibration or balance issues. That is
about 4 sets of them. Since both the above aircraft have gear that move
laterally depending on the weight on the gear, it is easy to get more
wear on one side, but never have had to rotate them. Y'all can buy
Goodyear$ or what ever you think is best for you.
pascal wrote:
>
> Check out Tim's site on that review and his impressions-
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I have no comparison to any other tire but it was very obvious that the Goodyears
are wearing much better.
I have to believe that the Goodyear tires have stiffer sidewalls and possibly better
puncher resistance but I have no data on that.
If Goodyear is good enough for Jeff Gordon and Dale Jr., they will be good for
me.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 7:36:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tires
You can get just as much wear, if not more on a standard Desser recap,
and get 2 or 3 tires from the price of one of the GY FCIII tires. The
savings will let you buy fuel for 2-3 hours of flying. ;-)
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:21 PM, pascal wrote:
> Scott's in California so I'll respond for him:
> I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight Custom
> III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6. I'm not sure about the
> difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity between a
> 6.00 and a 6.00-6. So far, so good on the tubes but I have only had them
> for one month. The tires are defiantly more beefy.
> I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly.
>
> Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra
> money. My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on the
> Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness is quite
> a bit more. Here is some data that Dresser posts on their site.
> http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html
>
> http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html
> http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT
>
> Good luck.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
> From: Albert Gardner
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 5:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: tires
>
> Scott-what tubes are you using?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less than
> the stock tires.
> I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
> wearing at all. I'm very impressed.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I have no comparison to any other tire but it was very obvious that
> the Goodyears are wearing much better.
> I have to believe that the Goodyear tires have stiffer sidewalls and
> possibly better puncher resistance but I have no data on that.
> If Goodyear is good enough for Jeff Gordon and Dale Jr., they will be
> good for me.
HUH??? You want to change tires as often as they do??? ;-)
I've had better luck with recaps ..... but then I've never had the
tapered rod gear before. :-P
Linn
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
You threw out the names, but-you must not have watched the NASCAR race at
Indy a couple of weeks ago.--NASCAR had to throw competition yellows e
very 10 to 15 laps or the tires would blow!-- Just a little ribbing.
-
Info on oil changes;- on our catamaran, we have twin volvo diesels, and w
hen I change either the oil or fuel filters, I slip a freezer bag all the w
ay over the filter.- Usually no mess at all.
Don McDonald
#40536- Finishing
--- On Sun, 8/10/08, Scott Schmidt wrote:
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tires
Date: Sunday, August 10, 2008, 10:19 PM
I have no comparison to any other tire but it was very obvious that the Goo
dyears are wearing much better.-
I have to believe that the Goodyear tires have stiffer sidewalls and possib
ly better puncher resistance but I have no data on that.-
If Goodyear is good enough for Jeff Gordon and Dale Jr., they will be good
for me.-
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 7:36:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tires
You can get just as much wear, if not more on a standard Desser recap,
and get 2 or 3 tires from the price of one of the GY FCIII tires. The
savings will let you buy fuel for 2-3 hours of flying. ;-)
On Sun, Aug 10, 2008 at 6:21 PM, pascal wrote:
> Scott's in California so I'll respond for him:
> I just recently replaced my main tires and tubes with Goodyear Flight Cus
tom
> III 15/6.00-6 and Leak Guard Tubes 15/6.00-6.- I'm not sure about the
> difference in size but there is a difference in weight capacity between a
> 6.00 and a 6.00-6.- So far, so good on the tubes but I have only had th
em
> for one month.- The tires are defiantly more beefy.
> I bought everything through Desser and received them very quickly.
>
> Tires and tubes is one area where I really didn't mind spending extra
> money.- My old tires went almost 300 hours and they say the compound on
the
> Goodyear tires are 20% more wear resistant and the rubber thickness is qu
ite
> a bit more.- Here is some data that Dresser posts on their site.
> http://www.desser.com/gy_perform.html
>
> http://www.desser.com/airtubes.html
> http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT
>
> Good luck.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
> From: Albert Gardner
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 5:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: tires
>
> Scott-what tubes are you using?
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On a side note, my Goodyear Flight Custom III are wearing so much less th
an
> the stock tires.
> I now have over 125 hours on these tires and can hardly tell they are
> wearing at all.- I'm very impressed.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
======================= =0A
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I'm doing the same thing. I removed one of them already and got one more to go.
After much cursing I managed to get the mount past the fuselage bulkhead that's
in the way and then it just came out.
What I'm worried about though is how do I torque those bolts. My monstrous torque
wrench will not fit in there. Is it OK to torque them with the torque wrench
on the bolt side instead of the nut side? It looked as if the phillippinos did
not bother torquing them. Some got lose very easily...
The bolts looked pretty whacked by the time they came out, so I replaced all of
them. All bolts and nuts cost about $20
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197872#197872
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's the info... I installed both Oil Filter Adapter and SD-20.
Jay
You will need the 1.4" spacer kit (FK502-1.4) $50.00 for the OFA and the
.75" spacer kit (FK710-.75) $90.00 for the SD-20.
Greg Jones
B&C Specialty Products, Inc.
123 East 4th Street
POB B
Newton, Kansas 67114 USA
Phone (316) 283-8000
Fax (316) 283-7400
www.bandc.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197892#197892
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
John;
Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks.
Will send on to Don McDonald in California.
Fred Williams
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vertical Compass |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
For those of you using an in-panel vertical compass similar to this: http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=15315~subid=7707/index.html...
How far away from other devices should it be mounted? Preferred location? Is 2.25"
too small? (I plan to use mine as a backup)
Thanks in advance for replies.
Jay
Colorado Springs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197940#197940
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vertical Compass |
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com> |
One thing to consider when mounting a compass in the instrument panel is
how close it is to the steel joysticks. Be sure when you swing the
compass that you do so with the sticks in the level flight attitude,
because it will certainly be different with the sticks all the way back,
all the way forward, or at full aileron deflection. I found this out
when I built my Pietenpol Air Camper - with a wooden structure I was
amazed how much influence the stick position has on compass indications.
This is why old Waco biplanes had a wooden stick that looked like a
baseball bat.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Putting ribs on the spars in the wing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Compass
For those of you using an in-panel vertical compass similar to this:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=15315~subid
7707/index.html...
How far away from other devices should it be mounted? Preferred
location? Is 2.25" too small? (I plan to use mine as a backup)
Thanks in advance for replies.
Jay
Colorado Springs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197940#197940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Vertical Compass |
I put mine right in the middle of the mix.......will only really need it if
the entire world (Alt, Stby Alt, battery and emergency battery) all go tango
uniform.....and thus it is affected when everything is powered up....not to
bad with the airplane is shut down.
If I had to do it again.....I would not include the compass. I have two
magnetometers, that is back up enough. Also the ADI has GPS track......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 12:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Compass
For those of you using an in-panel vertical compass similar to this:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=15315~subid=7707
/index.html...
How far away from other devices should it be mounted? Preferred location? Is
2.25" too small? (I plan to use mine as a backup)
Thanks in advance for replies.
Jay
Colorado Springs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197940#197940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I don't get it--you move the oil filter back 1.4 inches and then move the alternator
back 0.75 of that 1.4 inches?
And after speding $700 on the SD-20 you also need to spend $90 on the 3/4" spacer
for it? Do you still need the 3/4" spacer for the SD-20 with a 2.5" oil filter
spacer?
Got any pictures of your install? I'm holding out hope that Plane Power will come
out with a vacuum pad alternator. I haven't decided if I will have a second
alternator initally.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Here's the info... I installed both Oil Filter Adapter and SD-20.
> Jay
>
>
>
> You will need the 1.4" spacer kit (FK502-1.4) $50.00 for the OFA and the
> .75" spacer kit (FK710-.75) $90.00 for the SD-20.
>
> Greg Jones
> B&C Specialty Products, Inc.
> 123 East 4th Street
> POB B
> Newton, Kansas 67114 USA
> Phone (316) 283-8000
> Fax (316) 283-7400
> www.bandc.biz
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197892#197892
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank lables |
I am looking for some nice fuel tank labels that go around the filler cap.
Aircraft Spruce has some big blue ones but I keep thinking I can find some
that have an inside hole to match Van's filler and printed in black, not
blue like AS.
What have others done, a google search was not to my liking.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank lables |
I had my filler caps engraved......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables
I am looking for some nice fuel tank labels that go around the filler cap.
Aircraft Spruce has some big blue ones but I keep thinking I can find some
that have an inside hole to match Van's filler and printed in black, not
blue like AS.
What have others done, a google search was not to my liking.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Jay,
Looking at your pictures below, it seems that the SD-20 would clear the oil filter
adapter without the 3/4" spacer. Did you try the fit of the SD-20 without
the 3/4" spacer?
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Engine/images/hpim0066.jpg
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Engine/images/hpim0078.jpg
Also in the picture below you have two solenoids on your firewall. One looks like
the starter and the other looks like a--master? Do you have the cable from
your battery in the rear "always hot" to the firewall mounted master or is this
for something else?
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Engine/images/hpim0086.jpg
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I don't get it--you move the oil filter back 1.4 inches and then move the alternator
back 0.75 of that 1.4 inches?
>
> And after speding $700 on the SD-20 you also need to spend $90 on the 3/4" spacer
for it? Do you still need the 3/4" spacer for the SD-20 with a 2.5" oil
filter spacer?
>
> Got any pictures of your install? I'm holding out hope that Plane Power will
come out with a vacuum pad alternator. I haven't decided if I will have a second
alternator initally.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> >
> > Here's the info... I installed both Oil Filter Adapter and SD-20.
> > Jay
> >
> >
> >
> > You will need the 1.4" spacer kit (FK502-1.4) $50.00 for the OFA and the
> > .75" spacer kit (FK710-.75) $90.00 for the SD-20.
> >
> > Greg Jones
> > B&C Specialty Products, Inc.
> > 123 East 4th Street
> > POB B
> > Newton, Kansas 67114 USA
> > Phone (316) 283-8000
> > Fax (316) 283-7400
> > www.bandc.biz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Looking at your pictures below, it seems that the SD-20 would clear the oil filter
adapter without the 3/4" spacer. Did you try the fit of the SD-20 without
the 3/4" spacer?
>>> The spacer is needed. Nope, it's not cheap (can you say airplane?).
Also in the picture below you have two solenoids on your firewall. One looks like
the starter and the other looks like a--master?
>>> The S701-2 XFeed contactor is just to the left of the S702-1 starter contactor
in the photo (see attached pdf schematic).
Do you have the cable from your battery in the rear "always hot" to the firewall
mounted master or is this for something else?
>>> Wires to the Xfeed contactor are only hot if the associated battery contactor
is engaged thus allowing connection to the battery.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197992#197992
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10_electrical_188.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Compass |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Great backup devices! - I am putting my third one in my RV10. I have had previously
in 2 other planes. I would not recommend panel installation. High on the
center post is perfect for the installation. Keeps the magnetic interference to
a minimum. Even there it is hard to get these sensitive devices to a reasonable
calibration.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198039#198039
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivethead-Aero door pins - installation time saver |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Just worked on my door-open warning system yesterday with my electronics guru and
RV10 builder "Nick" from Sacramento. Nick pointed out the it is very difficult
to get the magnets in the system to activate the little magnetic switches
in the door frame at a 90 degree angle as shown in the Vans door kit plans. The
smaller magnets in the Rivethead-Aero door pins may not activate the little
magnetic switches at that 90 degree angle. I had to put the magnetic switches
pointing directly at the Rivethead-Aero door pins to get them activated. The magnetic
switches need to be mounted on the skin pointing dead at the door pins
- then they work fine. Nick probably saved me 5 hours of craziness figuring this
out... :D :D :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198042#198042
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivethead-Aero door pins - installation time saver |
Airmike;
"Just fixin' to" install the switches done. Any help with pics?
Dr. Fred. 3 windows down , 2 in the door to go.
AirMike wrote:
>
> Just worked on my door-open warning system yesterday with my electronics guru
and RV10 builder "Nick" from Sacramento. Nick pointed out the it is very difficult
to get the magnets in the system to activate the little magnetic switches
in the door frame at a 90 degree angle as shown in the Vans door kit plans.
The smaller magnets in the Rivethead-Aero door pins may not activate the little
magnetic switches at that 90 degree angle. I had to put the magnetic switches
pointing directly at the Rivethead-Aero door pins to get them activated. The
magnetic switches need to be mounted on the skin pointing dead at the door pins
- then they work fine. Nick probably saved me 5 hours of craziness figuring
this out... :D :D :D :D :D :D
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198042#198042
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivethead-Aero door pins - installation time saver |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
Any pictures please Mike?
-----Original Message-----
From: AirMike [mailto:Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net]
Sent: Tuesday, 12 August 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead-Aero door pins - installation time saver
Just worked on my door-open warning system yesterday with my electronics
guru and RV10 builder "Nick" from Sacramento. Nick pointed out the it is
very difficult to get the magnets in the system to activate the little
magnetic switches in the door frame at a 90 degree angle as shown in the
Vans door kit plans. The smaller magnets in the Rivethead-Aero door pins
may not activate the little magnetic switches at that 90 degree angle. I
had to put the magnetic switches pointing directly at the Rivethead-Aero
door pins to get them activated. The magnetic switches need to be
mounted on the skin pointing dead at the door pins - then they work
fine. Nick probably saved me 5 hours of craziness figuring this out...
:D :D :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198042#198042
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank lables |
Gary,
if you pick a font and give me the specific circle diameters you want in
the decal I can cut one for you. I make decals on my plotter for my other
job and can easily make you exactly what you want. pay for the stamp and you
can have it...
Steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
--------------------------------------------------
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 4:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables
>
> I am looking for some nice fuel tank labels that go around the filler cap.
> Aircraft Spruce has some big blue ones but I keep thinking I can find some
> that have an inside hole to match Van's filler and printed in black, not
> blue like AS.
>
> What have others done, a google search was not to my liking.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
> Dan Checkoway recommended a retread in the link below that he has been
> very happy with.
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t 784&highlight=tire
> <http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t 784&highlight=tire>
> I have always been a firm believer that you get what you pay for and
> have wondered if anyone out there has had any bad experiences with them?
I've used a set of the Wilkerson tires (retreads) for several hundred
hours on my RV-6A. No problems, and they sure do appear to exhibit
longer tread life than I experienced using new tires. I'll use
Wilkerson tires again.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivethead-Aero door pins - installation time saver |
I'm guessing that it matters how far you have the pins going into the
blocks.
My switches work in the normal Van's spec'd position but I have the pins
going slightly thru the door frames. That may change later so this is
good to know. Thanks
Bill
AirMike wrote:
>
> Just worked on my door-open warning system yesterday with my electronics guru
and RV10 builder "Nick" from Sacramento. Nick pointed out the it is very difficult
to get the magnets in the system to activate the little magnetic switches
in the door frame at a 90 degree angle as shown in the Vans door kit plans.
The smaller magnets in the Rivethead-Aero door pins may not activate the little
magnetic switches at that 90 degree angle. I had to put the magnetic switches
pointing directly at the Rivethead-Aero door pins to get them activated. The
magnetic switches need to be mounted on the skin pointing dead at the door pins
- then they work fine. Nick probably saved me 5 hours of craziness figuring
this out... :D :D :D :D :D :D
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198042#198042
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | SLC RV-10 Contacts |
I recently purchased a QB kit to jump start my -10 build process... I'm a r
epeat builder, with an RV-8 project in the books.=0AI will be in SLC Wed to
Friday, and am hoping to connect for a look, and perhaps ride.-I've not
yet flown in the -10.=0AThere seem to be few completed birds in the NE, I a
m based in NJ.=0AMany Thanks,=0AFrank=0A908-577-1625=0Af.dombroski at yahoo
dot com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Anyone have a spec on what the dihedral of the RV-10 wing is?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | SLC RV-10 Contacts |
Frank, wish I could help this week but there is no way I will be able to get
away from work and family before Sunday. Maybe next time.
When do you leave on Friday?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank Dombroski
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 6:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: SLC RV-10 Contacts
I recently purchased a QB kit to jump start my -10 build process... I'm a
repeat builder, with an RV-8 project in the books.
I will be in SLC Wed to Friday, and am hoping to connect for a look, and
perhaps ride. I've not yet flown in the -10.
There seem to be few completed birds in the NE, I am based in NJ.
Many Thanks,
Frank
908-577-1625
f.dombroski at yahoo dot com
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | door lock size requirement |
Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door
would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between
the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't
have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Car Radio output to headphones |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I don't know if this has been addressed before, but does anyone know what I need
to do to be able to listen to the DVD, XM, audio player I am installing in my
RV10 with headphones? There is no headphone output jack on the player. It
only has wires for speakers.
Thanks,
Greg Hale
--------
July 29, 2008 - August 12, 2008
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-do