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August 12, 2008 - August 26, 2008

Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198235#198235 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
Date: Aug 12, 2008
how about if you connected it to the aux port in your audio panel? aka you would use "aux" to listen to the DVD/XM music. -------------------------------------------------- From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Car Radio output to headphones > > I don't know if this has been addressed before, but does anyone know what > I need to do to be able to listen to the DVD, XM, audio player I am > installing in my RV10 with headphones? There is no headphone output jack > on the player. It only has wires for speakers. > > Thanks, > Greg Hale > > -------- > Greg Hale rv8/rv10 > www.nwacaptain.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198235#198235 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
You will need to wire the output of the radio into your intercom and then most likely put all the inputs into your stereo. Which intercom and stereo are you using first and I bet we can look up the intercom wiring online as well as the stereo system you are using. I have a DVD/CD, XM radio, iPod all fed into my Pioneer stereo then to my PS Engineering intercom and it works great. My stereo accepts the inputs and then outputs to the intercom through two wires. On the PS Engineering intercom I have is a "karaoke" mode that allows the music to keep playing even though I am talking or someone is talking to me. This is done through the MUTE button. It shuts off if I pull the mic on. It makes it really nice. I'm not sure if you can do that with the Garmin stuff. I do know that on new planes with the G1000 or Avidyne anytime anyone talks in the plane or radio it mutes the radio and then takes a second to come back on. People who fly with these systems and then fly with me just love the fact that the music keep playing in the background while I listen to radio calls. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 4:15:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Car Radio output to headphones I don't know if this has been addressed before, but does anyone know what I need to do to be able to listen to the DVD, XM, audio player I am installing in my RV10 with headphones? There is no headphone output jack on the player. It only has wires for speakers. Thanks, Greg Hale -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198235#198235 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2008
I am using Garmin's audio panel for my intercom. The stereo I have is the Valor ITS-720W Mobile Multi-Media System. Everything DVD, XM radio control, IPOD input plug, FM radio are all installed in the unit. The output of the system is eight wires. Two for each front speaker and two for each back speakers. There is no two single wires for the audio panel. The system has a 35w x 4 amplifier with 4.1 channel surround output. My concern is blowing the audio panel with that much power. I was hoping to just provide a jack in the panel for my LightSpeed headset to plug into. The LightSpeed headsets allows me to listen to one thing and my wife listen to another by plugging a separate device into the other headset box. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198289#198289 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 12, 2008
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
You cannot plug any low power device like headphones or an audio panel directly into high power outputs like speaker feeds. They will blow the headphones or audio panel in short order. There are devices out there that will take a high level speaker feed and give you low level outputs but you will eventually toast the amplifier without it connected to speakers to use some of the power up. Without the amp you will have nothing. It seems odd that something with all that capability doesn't have low level out on it but if that's truly the case you are better off selling it on eBay or returning it for something that has low level out's. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of greghale Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 9:16 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Car Radio output to headphones I am using Garmin's audio panel for my intercom. The stereo I have is the Valor ITS-720W Mobile Multi-Media System. Everything DVD, XM radio control, IPOD input plug, FM radio are all installed in the unit. The output of the system is eight wires. Two for each front speaker and two for each back speakers. There is no two single wires for the audio panel. The system has a 35w x 4 amplifier with 4.1 channel surround output. My concern is blowing the audio panel with that much power. I was hoping to just provide a jack in the panel for my LightSpeed headset to plug into. The LightSpeed headsets allows me to listen to one thing and my wife listen to another by plugging a separate device into the other headset box. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198289#198289 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2008
I couldn't find the 720 model, but most of Valor's units have RCA level outputs. Check out the specs here: http://www.valordvd.com/product/productinformation.asp?pc=MSU&productid=ITS-710W Wire two of those RCA level outputs (L+R) into the intercom's music source and you're good to go. Awesome unit though! Is the screen pretty sturdy? I wouldn't want it to flap around in turbulence... :) Lenny, #40803 just out of gear mount hell... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198302#198302 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2008
Sorry about my typing. It is the Valor 702W. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198312#198312 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2008
I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I can do or use? http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf I really appreciate the comments and help. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and it seems to work fine. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 greghale wrote: > > I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I can do or use? > > http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf > > I really appreciate the comments and help. > > Greg... > > -------- > Greg Hale rv8/rv10 > www.nwacaptain.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
Date: Aug 13, 2008
Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one of them can be used for the door. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote: > Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage > door would also work on the canopy doors? I don=92t know the if space > between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock > since I don=92t have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks. > Thanks! > > Pascal > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and photos. Thanks, Doug Preston On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one > of them can be used for the door. > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote: > > Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door > would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the > exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the > doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks. > Thanks! > > Pascal > > * > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
That should work just fine and that is how I have mine hooked up as well. Like others have mentioned, not sure if you can mix the bass into the output as well. You may want to call the Garmin or PS Engineering guys that question. Here is something I found on the PS Engineering website. Like it mentions, if you don't have the low level output and only speaker outputs, you can buy the PL2 I have linked below. So, what song will played first after or during that first flight? Can I use my 200W AIWA Car Stereo? Sure. Just don't hook the speaker output directly to the intercom. It will fail. The PS Engineering intercoms are designed to accept a low-level ( less than 3 V P-P) audio signal, like the ones provided by portable devises. Car stereo headphone amplifiers are not referenced to ground, and our intercoms are, so the moment power is turned on, the output amplifier will try its darndest to find ground, even if it has to let the smoke out of components. We recommend using a "Line Level" output from the car stereo. This is the one usually used for power amplifiers, equalizers and other add-ons. Again, the signals on this line vary widely between the brands and model. IF your automotive stereo does not have a "line out" there is an adapter available from Crutchfield . Called the PowerLinkII (PL2) this connects between the stereo and the intercom. It provides the proper levels and can be adjusted to suit your needs. Naturally, the ideal solution is our PCD7100, which is FAA-approved and designed to work in airplanes. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-K9I5Jr0Z26g/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=101pl2&search=PL2 Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:17:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Car Radio output to headphones Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and it seems to work fine. PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 greghale wrote: > > I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I can do or use? > > http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf > > I really appreciate the comments and help. > > Greg... > > -------- > Greg Hale rv8/rv10 > www.nwacaptain.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2008
You know sometimes you can stare at something and still not get it until someone else points it out to you. LINE OUT!!--Duh. You guys are the greatest and it is times like this that make the forum great! Scott I am not sure about the exact first song, but I'm sure I GET AROUND by the The Beach Boys will be at the top of the list. Thanks again everyone for your input. Hopefully I will finally be done by early next year and be at Oshkosh to meet all of you. Greg... N210KH -------- Greg Hale rv8/rv10 www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198406#198406 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "Dennis Keller" <dennis(at)bullamanka.com>
Subject: Rudder: Oil canning
Hi - Last night, while final drilling my rudder, I noticed some oil canning in the bottom two panels of the left skin. I had been following the plans, so was a bit surprised to see it. It was what I would consider to be fairly significant oil canning (only comparison is to my old Cessna 170, which had that going in a few spots), where if I pushed on one panel, the next one up would pop. My question is whether this is something that will work itself out during riveting or whether there is a strategy for redrilling (or something) to deal with it before I begin riveting? I've seen some really good archived messages about specific rivet patterns being used to alleviate oil canning, but none that directly apply to the rudder. Should I just not worry about it and have faith that the riveting process will equalize the tension irregularities? Thanks, Dennis Keller Albany, CA http://www.n44dk.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder: Oil canning
Dennis; I've found pretty good luck with using a ton of clecos. I use the scatter method - one here, one way over there, etc. This seems to help keep canning to a minimum. I would pull out all the clecos and re-cleco it to see if the problem persists. Bruce flaps On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 11:23 AM, Dennis Keller wrote: > Hi - > > Last night, while final drilling my rudder, I noticed some oil canning in > the bottom two panels of the left skin. I had been following the plans, so > was a bit surprised to see it. It was what I would consider to be fairly > significant oil canning (only comparison is to my old Cessna 170, which had > that going in a few spots), where if I pushed on one panel, the next one up > would pop. > > My question is whether this is something that will work itself out during > riveting or whether there is a strategy for redrilling (or something) to > deal with it before I begin riveting? > > I've seen some really good archived messages about specific rivet patterns > being used to alleviate oil canning, but none that directly apply to the > rudder. Should I just not worry about it and have faith that the riveting > process will equalize the tension irregularities? > > Thanks, > > Dennis Keller > Albany, CA > http://www.n44dk.com > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank lables
Date: Aug 13, 2008
Thanks, I got the same offer from a local guy so I will let him do the work. Thanks though for offering. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 10:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables Gary, if you pick a font and give me the specific circle diameters you want in the decal I can cut one for you. I make decals on my plotter for my other job and can easily make you exactly what you want. pay for the stamp and you can have it... Steve dinieri iflyrv10.com -------------------------------------------------- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 4:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables > > I am looking for some nice fuel tank labels that go around the filler cap. > Aircraft Spruce has some big blue ones but I keep thinking I can find some > that have an inside hole to match Van's filler and printed in black, not > blue like AS. > > What have others done, a google search was not to my liking. > > Gary Specketer > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
Date: Aug 13, 2008
Does this do it for you? ----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Preston<mailto:dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and photos. Thanks, Doug Preston On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint > wrote: Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one of them can be used for the door. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote: Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks. Thanks! Pascal href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http:/ /forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution om/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
Date: Aug 13, 2008
-----Original Message----- That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer. Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio. It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd want, you would have to add another intermediate device to mix those signals back together. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Reflections on Rudder Trim
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
Thanks Roger. dp On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:46 PM, Roger Standley wrote: > Does this do it for you? > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Doug Preston > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement > > If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and > photos. > Thanks, > Doug Preston > > On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > >> Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one >> of them can be used for the door. >> Jesse Saint >> Saint Aviation, Inc. >> jesse(at)saintaviation.com >> Cell: 352-427-0285 >> Fax: 815-377-3694 >> >> On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote: >> >> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door >> would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the >> exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the >> doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks. >> Thanks! >> >> Pascal >> >> * >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> * >> >> >> * >> >> * >> >> > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: yikes! Subpanel cutouts
I'm looking at my subpanel next to the Vans plans chapter 41 (hey I'm back in the book again!). So far, I've trimmed the aft part of the two outboard ribs to allow for adequate EFIS clearance. However, the radio stack seems likely to require reinforced holes (just to the right of the center rib). Are the large cutouts in the plans meant to be a general sort of guideline? How are radios in the radio stack secured to the subpanel structure? Are the circular subpanel holes for round steam gauge stuff or for wire routing? This probably makes perfect sense once you've done it, but there are too many questions to just start whacking away. I'd love to hear what others have done and see some photos if possible. Thanks in advance for any replies! Cheers, Jay Engine, wiring, and panel stuff... oh my! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: yikes! Subpanel cutouts
Date: Aug 13, 2008
Van's sample is just for reference of different ways of reinforcing different sizes and shapes of holes. For a radio stack hole, if you use aluminum angle around the perimeter, with the horizontal angles on one side and the vertical angles on the other with a rivet holding the angles to each other in the corners, that seems to be the strongest format. Then you can make a bracket that ties the radios together or at least ties the heaviest and/or lowest to one of those angles or another sub-panel structure. Most radio trays have holes towards the back that you can put a #6 screw through into a brace, which can be made out of aluminum angle as well, which can then be bolted/screwed to one of the angles on the perimeter of the hole. Most round instruments aren't deep enough to need a hole in the sub- panel in my experience, but you may have things such as instrument cooling fans that will have hoses running to the back of the radio stack, and you will certainly have a lot of cables running between the radio stack and the other instruments, not to mention all of the wires for engine monitoring, electrical buss(es), pitot and static lines, remote magnetometers and ahrs units, etc. Find out how many things you have to run, then make at least double the number of holes you need to run them. I like to use 3/4" holes with snap bushings as much as possible, often with nutplates to screw cushion clamps onto for supporting wiring runs where needed around the subpanel, usually along the bottom. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 13, 2008, at 9:22 PM, Jay Brinkmeyer wrote: > > > > I'm looking at my subpanel next to the Vans plans chapter 41 (hey > I'm back in the book again!). > > So far, I've trimmed the aft part of the two outboard ribs to allow > for adequate EFIS clearance. However, the radio stack seems likely > to require reinforced holes (just to the right of the center rib). > Are the large cutouts in the plans meant to be a general sort of > guideline? > > How are radios in the radio stack secured to the subpanel structure? > > Are the circular subpanel holes for round steam gauge stuff or for > wire routing? > > This probably makes perfect sense once you've done it, but there are > too many questions to just start whacking away. I'd love to hear > what others have done and see some photos if possible. > > Thanks in advance for any replies! > > Cheers, > Jay > Engine, wiring, and panel stuff... oh my! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: OSH RV10 HQ mug shots
I just returned from a series of extended trips following OSH, and had a chance to unload and post some of the photos I took @ OSH. During the Tues (?) pm HQ dinner I snapped shots of as many faces as I could. Many have name tags, which helps in putting together faces with names. If for some reason I missed you. I apologize. Maybe next year. If anyone has objections to having your mug posted, let me know and I'll take it off. Here's the link to the mug shot album http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV10%20HQ%20Mug%20Shots/index.html And here's one to the RV10's that were there, during Sun-Thurs (am): http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV-10's/index.html Robin, I thought I had a close up picture of the nose wheel mod you asked about, but apparently I don't. There is a pic of the plane and you can load the pic from the website and zoom it perhaps. Deems patiently (?) waiting on the painter. http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2008
We used the IflyRV10 door handles and locks from Steve Dinieri. I am very happy with the results. Here are some photos. Steve also sent me and additional lock cylinder that I will use on the baggage door. Great company to work with. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198519#198519 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1260_150.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1445_270.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1256_129.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1246_151.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1230_342.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Reflections on Rudder Trim
Date: Aug 14, 2008
I tend to agree with Vans. We are on a trip around Australia at the moment so with only 20 hours on the plane when we left we just bent a 3 inch square piece of 032 and taped to rudder after adjustment we need slight right rudder for climb and then in cruise feet off and ball in the middle. Done 15 hours with it on and works well. Will paint and rivet on when we get home . Chris VH-ICY ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Fritzsche (Building) To: RV-10 Matronics Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 9:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Reflections on Rudder Trim I went to AirVenture with the intention of building a servo controlled rudder trim system into my rudder as I complete it. AirVenture gave me a good opportunity to look at the different implementations on flying RV-10s. There were quite a few. I stopped by Van's tent on several occasions and asked two different employees (those I consider two of the most knowledgeable) what Van's view is of servo controlled rudder trim. Both replied (independently of course) that it is not needed. That left me wondering about the rudder trim on commercially built, high performance aircraft. What better place to find out than to stroll over to the commercial exhibits. Here is what I found. The Bonanza has a 2.25" by 11" trim tab held onto the rudder by a comparable sized strip of aluminum on each side riveted to the rudder and to the trim tab. The Cirrus has a 2.5" by 8" tab riveted to one side of the rudder. The Columbia/Cessna 350/400 has the trim tab riveted to one side of the rudder. It is also slotted as shown in the picture. After talking with several Mooney salespeople, I was told that the airplane has a servo that is linked to the rudder control rod in a manner that effectively changes its length providing a trim effect. I was told by Cessna salespeople that the Skylane uses a servo and spring arrangement to adjust the tension on the rudder control cables. Thus there are a variety of methods used by the commercial manufacturers, almost as many as used by RV-10 builders. :-) Upon reflection, I have decided to rivet a tab, size yet to be determined, to one side of the rudder. It is a simple, inexpensive, ground adjustable solution in use by a number of high performance commercial airplane manufacturers. Dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: door lock size requirement
Date: Aug 14, 2008
My mind seems to be missing something=2C but the pic shows the pins in the door closed position and the lock arm I imagine preventing the pins from opening. With the lock arm recessed like it is in the picture =2C how do you get it out of the way to open the door...seems like the arm will just hit the side of the fiiberglass recess? The drawing that others show in later posts show the lockset out side of th e fiberglass recess=2C but in that case the lock arm would need a 90 degree bend at the end of it to be able to hit the back end of the geared pin arm . The lock set in this case would only be able to rotate about 30 degrees t o get out of the way of the geared pin arm=2C any further rotation would ma ke it hang up on the fiberglass recess walls. What am I missing here? JOhn G. From: taildragon(at)msn.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirementDate: Wed=2C 13 Aug 2008 14:46:27 -0700 Does this do it for you? ----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Preston Sent: Wednesday=2C August 13=2C 2008 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and photos.Thanks=2CDoug Preston On Wed=2C Aug 13=2C 2008 at 8:18 AM=2C Jesse Saint wrote: Yes=2C the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one of them can be used for the door. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation=2C Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 12=2C 2008=2C at 1:53 PM=2C pascal wrote: Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door woul d also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the exte rior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the do ors yet=2C just a few extra 5/8 locks. Thanks! Pascal href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con tribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: door lock size requirement
Date: Aug 14, 2008
The fiberglass recess was slotted to allow the door lock arm to swing up and out of the way. It's hard to see the cut in the picture. Jim C =========================================================== From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Date: 2008/08/14 Thu AM 10:43:20 EDT Subject: RE: RV10-List: door lock size requirement My mind seems to be missing something, but the pic shows the pins in the door closed position and the lock arm I imagine preventing the pins from opening. With the lock arm recessed like it is in the picture, how do you get it out of the way to open the door...seems like the arm will just hit the side of the fiiberglass recess? The drawing that others show in later posts show the lockset out side of the fiberglass recess, but in that case the lock arm would need a 90 degree bend at the end of it to be able to hit the back end of the geared pin arm. The lock set in this case would only be able to rotate about 30 degrees to get out of the way of the geared pin arm, any further rotation would make it hang up on the fiberglass recess walls. What am I missing here? JOhn G. From: taildragon(at)msn.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirementDate: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:46:27 -0700 Does this do it for you? ----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Preston Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and photos.Thanks,Doug Preston On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one of them can be used for the door. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote: Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks. Thanks! Pascal href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =========================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: door lock size requirement
Date: Aug 14, 2008
makes sense now=2C thanks. John G.> From: jim(at)CombsFive.Com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: door lock size requirement> Date: Thu=2C 14 Aug 2008 12:16: erglass recess was slotted to allow the door lock arm to swing up and out o f the way. It's hard to see the cut in the picture.> > Jim C> > === =======> From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>> Date: RV10-List: door lock size requirement> > > My mind seems to be missing som ething=2C but the pic shows the pins in the door closed position and the lo ck arm I imagine preventing> the pins from opening. With the lock arm reces sed like it is in the picture=2C how do you get it out of the way to open t he door...seems like the arm will just hit the side of the fiiberglass rece ss?> > The drawing that others show in later posts show the lockset out sid e of the fiberglass recess=2C but in that case the lock arm would need a 90 degree bend at the end of it to be able to hit the back end of the geared pin arm. The lock set in this case would only be able to rotate about 30 de grees to get out of the way of the geared pin arm=2C any further rotation w ould make it hang up on the fiberglass recess walls.> > What am I missing h ere?> > JOhn G. > > > > From: taildragon(at)msn.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirementDate: Wed=2C 13 Aug 2008 ----- > From: Doug Preston > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday =2C August 13=2C 2008 8:27 AM> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requi rement> > If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us d etails and photos.Thanks=2CDoug Preston> On Wed=2C Aug 13=2C 2008 at 8:18 A M=2C Jesse Saint wrote:> > Yes=2C the same size l ock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one of them can be used fo r the door. > > > > Jesse Saint> Saint Aviation=2C Inc.> jesse@saintaviatio n.com> Cell: 352-427-0285> Fax: 815-377-3694> > On Aug 12=2C 2008=2C at 1:5 3 PM=2C pascal wrote:> > > Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) use d for the baggage door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know th e if space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger loc k since I don't have the doors yet=2C just a few extra 5/8 locks.> Thanks!> > Pascal> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www .matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> href="http://forums.matronics.com">ht tp://forums.matronics.com> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">h ttp://www.matronics.com/contribution> > > > > > > href="http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com> href="h ttp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c> > == ==============> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Account Info
Date: Aug 14, 2008
From: "Deloach, Harry S CAPT BUPERS-31" <harry.deloach(at)navy.mil>
Hey, I can not log on. Can you resend my user name and password. R/Harry DeLoach 1580 Old Humboldt RD Humboldt, TN. 38343 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Countersink
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2008
drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2008
From: Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink > >> Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. >> >> Will send on to Don McDonald in California. >> >> Fred Williams >> > > If possible, please add me to the end of the list. Please add me to the list also. Phil White, 580 Millbrook Dr. Downers Grove, IL 60516 #40220, tryin' to figure out the mounting of a Wankel engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2008
Lew Gallagher wrote: > The revised traveling countersink list is now: > > 8 ) Don > 9) Fred > 10) Pascal > > Then back to me (hopefully someday I'll have a canopy) since John has abdicated his parental rights! > > Let me know if others want in on this -- it still works really well, may be getting duller than new, but then I have nothing to compare it to. > > Later, - Lew Lew, Are you the keeper of the official/unofficial list? Am I the next builder after Pascal and Phil White after me? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198765#198765 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: tire air pressure checks
Date: Aug 15, 2008
How have flying RV10s handled the tire pressure checks without removing a portion of the wheel pant? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hartzell 3 blade prop
Date: Aug 15, 2008
From: nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com
If anyone is interested there is a 3 blade hartzell prop with 205 hrs being sold on Ebay with a Cherokee 235 that had a hard landing. No prop strike. I purchased the?O-540 out of the airplane. I spoke with "Zaidria" (ebay name) and he said for around $7000.00 he would sell the prop seperately. I am just throwing this out there as I will be going with a 2 blade prop. Jeff Nichols 40648 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder: Oil canning
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Date: Aug 15, 2008
A general rule of thumb that helps keep the metal work tight is to start riveting in the middle and work towards the ends/corners. -------- RV-10 #40333 N540XP (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198791#198791 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 15, 2008
Well, I suppose I am. It was on the way to 8] Don, 9) Fred, 10) Pascal, 11) Charles Usery. But then Fred said he was sending it to Don ...? So I'm not sure where it is now. If it's on schedule you would be 12) Gary Blankenbiller 13) Phil White then back to me. I have Phil's address, but not yours. Email me direct (lewgall(at)charter.net) if you like, and I'll try to get the latest mames and addresses tacked onto the end of the list. -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198817#198817 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Rudder Pedal Travel
Date: Aug 15, 2008
Hi Does anyone know (I am sure someone must) what the rudder pedal travel is from the lowest point +/- from a neutral position. Inquiring minds need to know. Cheers Les #40643 - Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes and insurance
The countersink was here waiting for me when I returned from Oskosh.- The countersink job was the first thing I did, and then the next day I sent it on to the next person on the list.- But that was a week and a half ago.. . I forgot who I sent it to.- But there was a list inside the package, al ong with address labels.--Thanks again for putting me on the list.... b eats spending more money on a tool you only use once. Don McDonald #40636 Finishing the finishing - and trying to secure insurance - PS.- For those of you out there who are just learning to fly (like me), w hile building your RV 10,- good luck on insurance.- The EAA quote I got wanted 20 hours of dual, 10 hours of dual instruments, and if my flyoff ho urs weren't done, then I had to hire a professional test pilot.- Best I f igure the cost of the above is around $12,000!- AND, their insuance quote was-$5,900.!--- Then they wonder why the number of GA pilots is dr opping. --- On Fri, 8/15/08, orchidman wrote: From: orchidman <gary(at)wingscc.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes Date: Friday, August 15, 2008, 12:25 PM Lew Gallagher wrote: > The revised traveling countersink list is now: > > 8 ) Don > 9) Fred > 10) Pascal > > Then back to me (hopefully someday I'll have a canopy) since John has abdicated his parental rights! > > Let me know if others want in on this -- it still works really well, may be getting duller than new, but then I have nothing to compare it to. > > Later, - Lew Lew, Are you the keeper of the official/unofficial list? Am I the next builder after Pascal and Phil White after me? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198765#198765 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vstab Forward Spar
Date: Aug 15, 2008
From: "Brent P. Humphreys" <bhumphreys(at)stonetek.com>
Quick question, as I can't find where it says to do it in the plans. The vertical stabilizer forward spar (VS-1002) does not explicitly say that the flange should be dimpled, but I assume it should be as the skins are dimpled. Just checking myself. -- Brent Humphreys Stone Technologies O: 417-255-0422 M: 314-477-3400 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Vstab Forward Spar
Date: Aug 15, 2008
Brent In the manual it will in one of the steps. I am in the same process that you are and the steps will guide you properly Contact me off list if you like I will look it up and see if I can find it It is after you final drill the skin. John G. Cumins Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent P. Humphreys Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Vstab Forward Spar Quick question, as I can't find where it says to do it in the plans. The vertical stabilizer forward spar (VS-1002) does not explicitly say that the flange should be dimpled, but I assume it should be as the skins are dimpled. Just checking myself. -- Brent Humphreys Stone Technologies O: 417-255-0422 M: 314-477-3400 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Vstab Forward Spar
Date: Aug 15, 2008
Sec 6 pg 5 Log Entry: Step 7 Dimple front spar and nose ribs Step 8 CS VS 1003 rear spar which are common to VS 1001 Step 9 Disamble rear spar debur all holes Step 10 Finish dimple VS 1003 Step 11 Final drill rudder attach holes as per plans Hope this helps Brent John G. Cumins _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent P. Humphreys Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Vstab Forward Spar Quick question, as I can't find where it says to do it in the plans. The vertical stabilizer forward spar (VS-1002) does not explicitly say that the flange should be dimpled, but I assume it should be as the skins are dimpled. Just checking myself. -- Brent Humphreys Stone Technologies O: 417-255-0422 M: 314-477-3400 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 16, 2008
OK Gary, I got your address. Pascal, has the countersink arrived yet? If so, let me know and I'll mail you the updated list and corresponding labels. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198897#198897 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Reflections on Rudder Trim
Date: Aug 16, 2008
Dave, I flew with a fixed tab taped in place for over 200 hours. It certainly was effective, however I ended up going with a cockpit adjustable tab as I found the trim required was inconsistent. You can probably find some previous threads in the archives, but one prominent theory is the nose wheel doesn't always center after takeoff leaving a slight yaw input. I can't say for certain, but no matter how I set the fixed trim tab it would work great on some flights but on others I'd be leaning on the rudder pedal slightly for over 2 hours and I got tired of it. I don't mess with the adjustable tab now very often, but it's handy to have when I do need to make a slight change. Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:31 PM Subject: RV10-List: Reflections on Rudder Trim I went to AirVenture with the intention of building a servo controlled rudder trim system into my rudder as I complete it. AirVenture gave me a good opportunity to look at the different implementations on flying RV-10s. There were quite a few. I stopped by Van's tent on several occasions and asked two different employees (those I consider two of the most knowledgeable) what Van's view is of servo controlled rudder trim. Both replied (independently of course) that it is not needed. That left me wondering about the rudder trim on commercially built, high performance aircraft. What better place to find out than to stroll over to the commercial exhibits. Here is what I found. The Bonanza has a 2.25" by 11" trim tab held onto the rudder by a comparable sized strip of aluminum on each side riveted to the rudder and to the trim tab. The Cirrus has a 2.5" by 8" tab riveted to one side of the rudder. The Columbia/Cessna 350/400 has the trim tab riveted to one side of the rudder. It is also slotted as shown in the picture. After talking with several Mooney salespeople, I was told that the airplane has a servo that is linked to the rudder control rod in a manner that effectively changes its length providing a trim effect. I was told by Cessna salespeople that the Skylane uses a servo and spring arrangement to adjust the tension on the rudder control cables. Thus there are a variety of methods used by the commercial manufacturers, almost as many as used by RV-10 builders. :-) Upon reflection, I have decided to rivet a tab, size yet to be determined, to one side of the rudder. It is a simple, inexpensive, ground adjustable solution in use by a number of high performance commercial airplane manufacturers. Dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Reflections on Rudder Trim
For what it's worth, (probably nothing), I agree with both ends of the discussion. I flew for what, maybe 285 hours, with a stick-on trim wedge. I wasn't totally displeased. It worked OK, and did get rid of 90% of the out-of-trim on the rudder. My position these days is that adjustable trim is great, and if you plan an electric version, do yourself a favor by at least pulling wires for it while you assemble the tail for final assembly. But I never called it a NECESSARY option to have adjustable trim. I think that some people will be plenty satisfied without it. The rub comes, as Marcus points out, that the trim isn't always going to be consistent, and depending on speed, altitude, loadings, or whatever, you may want more or less trim. Certainly on a 9 hour flying day, I got annoyed by keeping my foot on the pedal for hours on end....so that the plane would not fly in a slight bank. Yes, if your rudder trim is out, you will have a low wing with the Autopilot on.....and as you get cozy and used to your plane, you will notice that effect and over time it gets more annoying to hold your foot there on the pedal. I'm also all for the actual aerodynamics of actually trimming your rudder with an adjustable tab, just like you do with the elevator. I think it gives the most real trim effect that puts things into that comfortable equilibrium just like when you trim out the elevator. The aileron trim in the RV-10 is spring/servo driven and although I feel it is plenty good for the 10, it does feel like more of a "hack" than truly trimming....and it does add some spring tension to the controls. Is this bad? Not really....and I don't think that it would be so bad to do a mechanical trim on the rudder, either. Both can get the job done just fine. If it weren't just so simple to throw the servo in the rudder, certainly I'd be attracted to the other methods too, but I can't imagine being as satisfied in the end as right now I'm completely satisfied... especially when coupled to Bob's "Safety-Trim" so I have the fast/slow speed settings. It's a completely non-interfering way to accomplish the job. As for Van's opinion.... Sure, I'm positive that they'd say "nah, it's not needed to have adjustable trim." We've all learned what the Van's style is...simple, cheap, and VFR. The catch is, many of us want slick, comfortably, advanced IFR aircraft. So our opinion isn't really the same all the time. With something like rudder trim, it doesn't matter so much if you pick a side, or have a strong opinion....it's not one of the biggest issues you'll face. But, it IS one of the things that is easier dealt with BEFORE you are flying than after. Unfortunately, it probably isn't until you have 60-80 hours on the plane, including some good long X/C time, until you'll actually SEE what your opinion actually is. There's nothing like droning along in your RV-10 for some good X/C time, reflecting on your choices, to understand if those past choices and opinions were on the mark or not. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Marcus Cooper wrote: > Dave, > > I flew with a fixed tab taped in place for over 200 hours. It > certainly was effective, however I ended up going with a cockpit > adjustable tab as I found the trim required was inconsistent. You can > probably find some previous threads in the archives, but one prominent > theory is the nose wheel doesnt always center after takeoff leaving a > slight yaw input. I cant say for certain, but no matter how I set the > fixed trim tab it would work great on some flights but on others Id be > leaning on the rudder pedal slightly for over 2 hours and I got tired of > it. I dont mess with the adjustable tab now very often, but its handy > to have when I do need to make a slight change. > > > > Marcus > > > > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave > Fritzsche (Building) > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:31 PM > *To:* RV-10 Matronics > *Subject:* RV10-List: Reflections on Rudder Trim > > > > I went to AirVenture with the intention of building a servo controlled > rudder trim system into my rudder as I complete it. AirVenture gave me > a good opportunity to look at the different implementations on flying > RV-10s. There were quite a few. I stopped by Van's tent on several > occasions and asked two different employees (those I consider two of the > most knowledgeable) what Van's view is of servo controlled rudder trim. > Both replied (independently of course) that it is not needed. That left > me wondering about the rudder trim on commercially built, high > performance aircraft. What better place to find out than to stroll over > to the commercial exhibits. Here is what I found. > > The Bonanza has a 2.25" by 11" trim tab held onto the rudder by a > comparable sized strip of aluminum on each side riveted to the rudder > and to the trim tab. > > > The Cirrus has a 2.5" by 8" tab riveted to one side of the rudder. > > The Columbia/Cessna 350/400 has the trim tab riveted to one side of the > rudder. It is also slotted as shown in the picture. > > After talking with several Mooney salespeople, I was told that the > airplane has a servo that is linked to the rudder control rod in a > manner that effectively changes its length providing a trim effect. I > was told by Cessna salespeople that the Skylane uses a servo and spring > arrangement to adjust the tension on the rudder control cables. Thus > there are a variety of methods used by the commercial manufacturers, > almost as many as used by RV-10 builders. :-) > > Upon reflection, I have decided to rivet a tab, size yet to be > determined, to one side of the rudder. It is a simple, inexpensive, > ground adjustable solution in use by a number of high performance > commercial airplane manufacturers. > > Dave > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Dave Fritzsche > > 40813 > > Puyallup, WA > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Countersink
Date: Aug 16, 2008
I would like to be on the end of the list, Bob Kaufmann 7602 Grove Acre Court Las Vegas, NV 89131 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
Can you guys please add me to the list for the Countersink? My particulars are on the Builders list and I can send my full mailing address to whoever. Thanks Bill Watson Lew Gallagher wrote: > > OK Gary, I got your address. > > Pascal, has the countersink arrived yet? If so, let me know and I'll mail you the updated list and corresponding labels. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198897#198897 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: need part numbers
Date: Aug 16, 2008
Anyone have the Cleveland part numbers for the main wheel and nose wheel? also need brake lining Cleveland number. I thought I recorded them before I discarded the boxes but can not find. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Oil Filter Part Number
Date: Aug 16, 2008
Anyone have the part number for the IO-540 D4A5 oil filter? I am at home - plane is at hangar... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink
Bob, Just borrow mine when you need it. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:04:01 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Countersink I would like to be on the end of the list, Bob Kaufmann 7602 Grove Acre Court Las Vegas, NV 89131 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Oil Filter Part Number
Date: Aug 16, 2008
CH48110-1 CHAMPION OIL FILTER _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 12:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Part Number Anyone have the part number for the IO-540 D4A5 oil filter? I am at home - plane is at hangar... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Part Number
Mine has a Champion CH48108-1 Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 12:04:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Part Number Anyone have the part number for the IO-540 D4A5 oil filter? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
Date: Aug 16, 2008
Is this some sort of "Super Countersink Tool?" Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 6:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes > > OK Gary, I got your address. > > Pascal, has the countersink arrived yet? If so, let me know and I'll mail > you the updated list and corresponding labels. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198897#198897 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: engine cowling
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I've just started the initial steps of fitting the engine cowling. The directions seem somewhat vague to me. Trimming the opening for the prop was no problem for each separately. When I fit the upper and lower cowl flanges together around the spinner area, I cannot get a good fit while keeping the sides of the cowling aligned with each other. Is this normal? Should I err toward aligning the sides of the cowl halves to each other and filling the inconsistencies in the nose section later? It seems the steps for this initial "nose fitting" is critical to the rest of the process. Thanks for any help. Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Nose wheel fairing length
Date: Aug 16, 2008
Help, please. Amazingly, I could find nothing on this issue in the archives... When I slid the rear nose wheel fairing in place and fully forward against the vertical post, I found that the aft end of the fairing was _exactly_ one inch behind its proper location according to fig. 3 page 48-17. Now the instructions (same figure) say to "TRIM FLANGE IF/AS NEEDED". If I did that , I would trim right through the flange and 1/4" into the body of the fairing. The forward fairing half would be pushed forward a like amount, and the specified cutout(page 48-18 fig. 1) would not even be close. Clearly there is a mismatch between the instructions and the dimension of the rear fairing that I received. Either the fairing is too long by an inch, or the 20 5/32" dimension ( fig. 3 page 48-17.) should read 21 5/32". The drawings all show the fairing essentially flush against the post with little or no cutout. It may even be remotely possible that I'm missing something here. Any ideas?? John Ackerman 40458 PS This particular aft nosewheel fairing is not as nice as most of the RV10 glass. Big mismatch of the halves. :-( ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink
Ok countersinkers, we now know where the countersink is.... my brother just brought us our mail from the shop, and low and behold, Fred sent it right back to me.- Fred, thanks for thinking of me, but there's labels inside t he package, and there was a reason there wasn't a label for me.... cause I already finished with it.- Anyway, Pascal, you're next on the list follow ed by Lew.- Since it's Sat. night, it won't go out until Monday, so let m e know if either of you still need it..... and I'll revise the list.-- Thanks Fred. Don McDonald #40636 Finishing --- On Sat, 8/16/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 12:19 PM Bob, Just borrow mine when you need it. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:04:01 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Countersink I would like to be on the end of the list, Bob Kaufmann 7602 Grove Acre Court Las Vegas, NV 89131 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose wheel fairing length
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I fought with this fairing for a week or two. I attempted to follow the directions and ended up with a cutout that was too deep in the front and rear halves. I ended up reglassing the parts and setting the center of the fairing as pictured in the plans and letting the back end be long. I was careful to keep the center line parallel to the reference plane. The fairings seem to be of much lower quality than the other plastic parts. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199056#199056 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose wheel fairing length
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Hey John, I also remember puzzeling about this. I'm pretty sure I ended up cutting past the flange to make the aft fairing right, then making the nose fit accordingly. It turned out pretty good, I think -- but these pants are really time consuming. I'll try to remember to take disassembled pictures tomorrow. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199058#199058 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/pants_7_medium_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is a quart enough sealant for the fuel tanks?
From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
The subject pretty much says it all. Van's online catalog states that the quart is ample for a 7/8, but doesn't mention the 10. I'm just getting ready to start the tanks and wanted to ensure I have enough sealant on hand. -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Wings RV-10 #40684 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199059#199059 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Which fuel caps did you use?
From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I'm curious to hear opinions on your decision to use the standard deluxe fuel caps supplied by Van's or something else like locking caps. I did a search, but didn't find anything in the archives. I think I'm leaning towards not using locking caps, since it appears that it will only keep unwanted things going into your tanks and not really stop fuel theft. Also, the keys are just one thing to lose. -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Wings RV-10 #40684 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199061#199061 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Is a quart enough sealant for the fuel tanks?
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Buy two quarts. You'll need some later on for odds and ends anyway. Store what you don't use in the freezer. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Is a quart enough sealant for the fuel tanks? The subject pretty much says it all. Van's online catalog states that the quart is ample for a 7/8, but doesn't mention the 10. I'm just getting ready to start the tanks and wanted to ensure I have enough sealant on hand. -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Wings RV-10 #40684 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199059#199059 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vstab Forward Spar
From: "brenthumphreys" <bhumphreys(at)stonetek.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Thanks. I was scanning looking for the part number, and didn't find it. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199102#199102 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: N416EC RV-10 for Sale
From: "N416EC" <N416EC(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
2006 RV-10 for sale. 305 hours TT. $217,500.00 Photos can be seen at http://www.myplane.com/ad/1466 For more information email N416EC(at)gmail.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199121#199121 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Newbie intro
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Hi guys. First time poster from Mesa, Az. I'm about nine months into an rv10 project. I really appreciate the value of these forums, and hope to be "one of the guys" sometime soon. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199129#199129 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie intro
Great...another in build mode to replace David who moved to flying mode. ;-) Welcome. Kelly KCHD Empennage EAA Tech Counselor On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 2:43 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > Hi guys. First time poster from Mesa, Az. I'm about nine months into an rv10 project. I really appreciate the value of these forums, and hope to be "one of the guys" sometime soon. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199129#199129 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Is a quart enough sealant for the fuel tanks?
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Can be done easily. I did it and had/have plenty left over. The secret is don't put on more than is needed. I took my time and did every single rivet with little excess using a syringe, toothpick and q-tip (without the cotton swab). There is a great write up on vansairforce search for it under "prosealing" otherwise I put a copy of the document on my site http://rv10builder.net/test.aspx Also if you're interested in a few pictures I have a slide show of the process with a review as I went along Section 18. http://rv10builder.net/sect18.aspx Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 5:57 AM Subject: RV10-List: Is a quart enough sealant for the fuel tanks? > > The subject pretty much says it all. Van's online catalog states that the > quart is ample for a 7/8, but doesn't mention the 10. I'm just getting > ready to start the tanks and wanted to ensure I have enough sealant on > hand. > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - Wings > RV-10 #40684 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199059#199059 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Countersink
Date: Aug 17, 2008
totally my fault! Dr Fred sent it to you. I thought you were after me and asked to send to you. Had in laws and they really confused me these last few weeks. Take your time and send it my way, I'll have it out per Lew's list by end of the week for the next user. My lesson learned is that the in-laws will not fly with me. Although those negative G's would be a fun ride to assure they never did again anyway Pascal From: Don McDonald Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink Ok countersinkers, we now know where the countersink is.... my brother just brought us our mail from the shop, and low and behold, Fred sent it right back to me. Fred, thanks for thinking of me, but there's labels inside the package, and there was a reason there wasn't a label for me.... cause I already finished with it. Anyway, Pascal, you're next on the list followed by Lew. Since it's Sat. night, it won't go out until Monday, so let me know if either of you still need it..... and I'll revise the list. Thanks Fred. Don McDonald #40636 Finishing --- On Sat, 8/16/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 12:19 PM Bob, Just borrow mine when you need it. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:04:01 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Countersink I would like to be on the end of the list, Bob Kaufmann 7602 Grove Acre Court Las Vegas, NV 89131 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Newbie intro
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Myron - what is your kit number? John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 4:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Newbie intro Great...another in build mode to replace David who moved to flying mode. ;-) Welcome. Kelly KCHD Empennage EAA Tech Counselor On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 2:43 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > Hi guys. First time poster from Mesa, Az. I'm about nine months into an rv10 project. I really appreciate the value of these forums, and hope to be "one of the guys" sometime soon. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199129#199129 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink
sorry for the confusion. I couldn't find the last email on the countersink so I sent it to the next person on the list and crossed my name off. Where's waldo? Dr. Fred. pascal wrote: > totally my fault! Dr Fred sent it to you. I thought you were after me > and asked to send to you. > Had in laws and they really confused me these last few weeks. Take > your time and send it my way, I'll have it out per Lew's list by end > of the week for the next user. > My lesson learned is that the in-laws will not fly with me. Although > those negative G's would be a fun ride to assure they never did again > anyway Winking smile emoticon > Pascal > > *From:* Don McDonald > *Sent:* Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:45 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink > > Ok countersinkers, we now know where the countersink is.... my brother > just brought us our mail from the shop, and low and behold, Fred sent > it right back to me. Fred, thanks for thinking of me, but there's > labels inside the package, and there was a reason there wasn't a label > for me.... cause I already finished with it. Anyway, Pascal, you're > next on the list followed by Lew. Since it's Sat. night, it won't go > out until Monday, so let me know if either of you still need it..... > and I'll revise the list. Thanks Fred. > Don McDonald > #40636 > Finishing > > --- On *Sat, 8/16/08, Rick Sked //* wrote: > > From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 12:19 PM > > > Bob, > > Just borrow mine when you need it. > > Rick S. > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:04:01 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Countersink > > > > I would like to be on the end of the list, > Bob Kaufmann > 7602 Grove Acre Court > Las Vegas, NV 89131 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman > Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink > > > > > drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > > John; > > > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > > > Fred Williams > > If possible, please add me to the end of the list. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 > > > > > > * > > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > 3D============================================ > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Moving day
Sorry I've been behind on the great countersink emails, but I finished getting the windows in and the doors on. I'd have taken a pic of the countersink next to the Paris Eiffel Tower, but put it back in the mail in less than 24 hrs. Moved to the hangar and put the wings on this weekend. Now trying to find all those little wing parts that have seemed to vanish in the move. Thank God for aircraft spruce. Took 2 hrs with Alex D. last weekend. Great teacher. Have two more hrs scheduled this next weekend. Should be close to DAR inspection by then. I can feel the corners of my mouth just starting to curl. :-) Few pics. http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/Movingday Dr Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Newbie intro
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Thanks for the welcome. Do I get a T-shirt? I bought my emp kit untouched from another guy at FFZ and inherited his builder number of 40733. I recently bought my fuselage kit from Van's. I didn't know about this venue until someone from the "other" forum told me about it. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199175#199175 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Air Conditioning
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Having owned an aircraft in AZ for several years, we decided if we ever had another one it would have AC. I would appreciate any feedback that anyone would have concerning Flightline vs. Airflow systems. Right now I am leaning toward the latter, but haven't written any checks yet. As I am just joining my fuselage sections together, I would appreciate feedback as to building stage suggestions on AC component installation. Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199177#199177 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Tank Earthing Point
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink
It seems like such a shame to get these again and not use them.....- mayb e I'll go down to the hanger in the morning and just countersink a few extr a holes in the canopy!--- Sorry Fred, it wasn't your fault.- You're allowed one punch in the arm when we meet up. Don --- On Sun, 8/17/08, pascal wrote: From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink Date: Sunday, August 17, 2008, 4:52 PM totally my fault! Dr Fred sent it to you. I thought-you were-after me a nd asked to send to you. Had in laws and they really confused me these last few weeks. Take your tim e and send it my way, I'll have it out per Lew's list by end of the week fo r the next user. My lesson learned is that the in-laws will not fly with me. Although those negative G's would be a fun ride to assure they never did again anyway Pascal From: Don McDonald Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink Ok countersinkers, we now know where the countersink is.... my brother just brought us our mail from the shop, and low and behold, Fred sent it right back to me.- Fred, thanks for thinking of me, but there's labels inside t he package, and there was a reason there wasn't a label for me.... cause I already finished with it.- Anyway, Pascal, you're next on the list follow ed by Lew.- Since it's Sat. night, it won't go out until Monday, so let m e know if either of you still need it..... and I'll revise the list.-- Thanks Fred. Don McDonald #40636 Finishing --- On Sat, 8/16/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Countersink Date: Saturday, August 16, 2008, 12:19 PM Bob, Just borrow mine when you need it. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:04:01 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Countersink I would like to be on the end of the list, Bob Kaufmann 7602 Grove Acre Court Las Vegas, NV 89131 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Countersink drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote: > John; > > Received and countersunk the 5/16 holes for the seat belts. Thanks. > > Will send on to Don McDonald in California. > > Fred Williams If possible, please add me to the end of the list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198623#198623 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com /contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Newbie intro
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
No T-shirt, but welcome anyway! Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199184#199184 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2008
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Reflections on Rudder Trim
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Newbie intro
Date: Aug 17, 2008
Myron This list is one of the best resources available to a builder. If you go to Matronics.com and follow the links, you can find a search engine that will allow you to go back to the beginning of time on the -10 list. There are many useful websites, one of the best has to be Tim Olson's at MYRV10.com. When building, you can do as I do and wait until you have created a new piece of aluminum scrap before posting a question and getting help. Or, you can avoid the pain and post first then build. Everyone on the list is more than willing to help out. You get your T-Shirt when you become a 3rd degree builder. When you become a master builder you are taught the secret handshake and a propeller hat. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: August-17-08 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Newbie intro Thanks for the welcome. Do I get a T-shirt? I bought my emp kit untouched from another guy at FFZ and inherited his builder number of 40733. I recently bought my fuselage kit from Van's. I didn't know about this venue until someone from the "other" forum told me about it. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199175#199175 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
The airflow system distributes the weight of the system throughout the airplane. Compressor at front, Condenser in the middle and evaporator in the rear. My calculations showed the cg moving 3/8" aft. Do not know anything on flight systems air conditioning other than they put the condenser and the evaporator in the tail. Alex DeDominicis has the system in his RV10. You may want to talk to him about his installation. I have the Airflow system in my RV10, but my airplane is not ready to fly yet. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199195#199195 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
Date: Aug 17, 2008
I have installed Flightline AC, but am not flying yet. Installation has been pretty straight forward. Instructions are a little slim, but the kit is well done. John at Flightline AC has been very responsive to questions and problems. I am installing the Vertical Power Climate Control System as well. Should be a very nice interface to the A/C. David Maib 40559 endlessly finishing. On Aug 17, 2008, at 8:32 PM, woxofswa wrote: Having owned an aircraft in AZ for several years, we decided if we ever had another one it would have AC. I would appreciate any feedback that anyone would have concerning Flightline vs. Airflow systems. Right now I am leaning toward the latter, but haven't written any checks yet. As I am just joining my fuselage sections together, I would appreciate feedback as to building stage suggestions on AC component installation. Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199177#199177 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Tank Earthing Point
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
Could anyone please tell me if they have installed (or are planning to install) an earthing point on their wing tanks next to the cap, to enable earthing of the fuel nozzle prior to commencing refuelling? Regards PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia Email: patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Pulis Sent: Monday, 18 August 2008 11:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Aug 17, 2008
If it were just me I would bag the A/C, but it is for my wife and future pax. My first flying job was flying tourons and river runners in and around the Grand Canyon. As the heat index increased, so did the puke index. (Japanese were the worst, must be the raw fish, but nobody pukes with more grace and dignity than the Japanese). I am building four seats because I want to fill them, and the last thing I want is puke in my new airplane. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199217#199217 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Earthing Point
I'm not, the fuel trucks use a clamp to bond the truck to the aircraft, I haven't seen any grounding points in the ramps except on military installations but then I really haven't looked that hard for them. If there were ramp grounding points then the trucks would be using a triangle grounding method, truck to ground, aircraft to ground, truck to aircraft. Which they may...self serve for me...nozzel bonds to the tank just like your car, through the metal on the nozzel. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:24:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point Could anyone please tell me if they have installed (or are planning to install) an earthing point on their wing tanks next to the cap, to enable earthing of the fuel nozzle prior to commencing refuelling? Regards PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia Email: patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Pulis Sent: Monday, 18 August 2008 11:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Earthing Point
Date: Aug 18, 2008
I just ground to the exhaust pipe with the grounding wire if fueling from truck. Bob Kaufmann 40125 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:44 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point I'm not, the fuel trucks use a clamp to bond the truck to the aircraft, I haven't seen any grounding points in the ramps except on military installations but then I really haven't looked that hard for them. If there were ramp grounding points then the trucks would be using a triangle grounding method, truck to ground, aircraft to ground, truck to aircraft. Which they may...self serve for me...nozzel bonds to the tank just like your car, through the metal on the nozzel. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:24:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point Could anyone please tell me if they have installed (or are planning to install) an earthing point on their wing tanks next to the cap, to enable earthing of the fuel nozzle prior to commencing refuelling? Regards PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia Email: patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Pulis Sent: Monday, 18 August 2008 11:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
I have the Airflow system & my CG is 108.4, EW 1673. I have to watch my baggage weight as CG goes aft with fuel burn. Doug Preston RV10 N372RV On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 9:35 PM, greghale wrote: > > The airflow system distributes the weight of the system throughout the > airplane. Compressor at front, Condenser in the middle and evaporator in > the rear. My calculations showed the cg moving 3/8" aft. Do not know > anything on flight systems air conditioning other than they put the > condenser and the evaporator in the tail. Alex DeDominicis has the system > in his RV10. You may want to talk to him about his installation. I have > the Airflow system in my RV10, but my airplane is not ready to fly yet. > > Greg... > > -------- > Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH > www.nwacaptain.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199195#199195 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Earthing Point
I could be wrong, but it seems to me that the exhaust pipe is oxidized and exhaust coated stainless steel(not near the top of the list of conductors), connected through joints in the same condition to the engine exhaust ports with a gasket to the cylinders, to the crankcase, and then to your main ground point. My point being that sparks tend to take the shortest path. I prefer to ground to my wing tiedown point, which is attached to the spar that is part of my fuel tank. Maybe it makes no difference, maybe it does. I've seen a lot of starting problems that involved poor ground connections to the engine. Your mileage may vary. Kelly Bob Kaufmann wrote: > > I just ground to the exhaust pipe with the grounding wire if fueling from truck. > > Bob Kaufmann > 40125 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:44 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point > > > I'm not, the fuel trucks use a clamp to bond the truck to the aircraft, I haven't seen any grounding points in the ramps except on military installations but then I really haven't looked that hard for them. If there were ramp grounding points then the trucks would be using a triangle grounding method, truck to ground, aircraft to ground, truck to aircraft. Which they may...self serve for me...nozzel bonds to the tank just like your car, through the metal on the nozzel. > > Rick Sked > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:24:44 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point > > > Could anyone please tell me if they have installed (or are planning to > install) an earthing point on their wing tanks next to the cap, to > enable earthing of the fuel nozzle prior to commencing refuelling? > > Regards > > PATRICK PULIS > > RV-10 #40299 > Adelaide, South Australia > Email: patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Patrick Pulis > Sent: Monday, 18 August 2008 11:09 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Earthing Point > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Subject: N416EC RV-10 for Sale
Why are you selling? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N416EC Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: N416EC RV-10 for Sale 2006 RV-10 for sale. 305 hours TT. $217,500.00 Photos can be seen at http://www.myplane.com/ad/1466 For more information email N416EC(at)gmail.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199121#199121 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N416EC RV-10 for Sale
From: "N416EC" <N416EC(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
There are 2 partners that own this plane. They want to go their separate ways but neither is willing to buy the other out. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199260#199260 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: center of gravity
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Hey Guys, I've been wondering about this for awhile and Doug's "I have the Airflow system & my CG is 108.4" on the AC thread prompted me to just ask: Where is this 108.4" measured from? Probably obvious, but I haven't found it yet, and other general literature on COG talks about a reference point somewhere in front of the plane. It seems to be a very critical measurement. So far, I'm still head-down-building, but getting closer to needing to know stuff like this. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199261#199261 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: engine cowling
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sean, Don't know if you got any responses or not but we can discuss Thursday night. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dogsbark(at)comcast.net Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 10:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: engine cowling I've just started the initial steps of fitting the engine cowling. The directions seem somewhat vague to me. Trimming the opening for the prop was no problem for each separately. When I fit the upper and lower cowl flanges together around the spinner area, I cannot get a good fit while keeping the sides of the cowling aligned with each other. Is this normal? Should I err toward aligning the sides of the cowl halves to each other and filling the inconsistencies in the nose section later? It seems the steps for this initial "nose fitting" is critical to the rest of the process. Thanks for any help. Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: center of gravity
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Lew, Here's the info I've got at hand: Datum: 99.44" forward of the wing leading edge Allowable CG range: 107.84" - 116.24" (15-30% of wing chord) Front seats: 114.58" Rear seats: 151.26" Fuel: 108.9" Baggage: 173.5" Main wheel (right): 124.44" Main wheel (left): 124.31" Nose wheel: 50.44" Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 8:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: center of gravity Hey Guys, I've been wondering about this for awhile and Doug's "I have the Airflow system & my CG is 108.4" on the AC thread prompted me to just ask: Where is this 108.4" measured from? Probably obvious, but I haven't found it yet, and other general literature on COG talks about a reference point somewhere in front of the plane. It seems to be a very critical measurement. So far, I'm still head-down-building, but getting closer to needing to know stuff like this. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199261#199261 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: N416EC RV-10 for Sale
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Sales of RV-10s are an important and an often overlooked part of the total build/ownership consideration. It was interesting that a friend considered making improvements to a Cessna 172 and Vref from AOPA showed the impact of electronics and such things as interior and other cosmetics. His decision was easy - new and modern interior. Unfortunately AOPA does not currently track Amateur Built or Commercially built kit aircraft values... and they should with 30,000. Early in the product life cycle, almost 25% of all completed RV-10s were up for sale. Many languished for months (one N325HP more than a year), others sold in days... It creates a curiosity and a need to share data for the many still in the build. Over 150 are flying, 5% have sustained damage, 2% incurred destruction. The percentage sold has come way down and the values are going UP. The reason for selling plays into price. Whether SBs are complied with impacts final value. Whether the aircraft meets AIGS new Technologically Advanced Aircraft Credits has an impact. Whether the aircraft has sustained repairs. What the paint scheme looks like and also the quality of workmanship. Some aircraft get a push in value if they have received an award from Sun 'N Fun or OSH such as this year's - Robert Gray N410RG. We have a local builder in search of addition partners in a flying RV-10 which has the same identical paint as Wayne Edgerton's striking N602WT. It behooves partners to retain an ability to extricate themselves so as not to burden the value of an aircraft partnership. There is nothing wrong with selling as long as you are not prohibited and the other partner is stuck too. It is much like purchasing a hangar on leased land about to expire. Every now and then one comes along that has a panel so unorthodox or a paint scheme so unique you know that only its mother and loving builder could set an accurate value. The market forces can be far less forgiving. We should all share the dynamics of the market and strive to keep their value kicking the #$&* out of the Piper Comanche's that their engines derived their bloodline from. Stein said it best "If you want to kick #$% - then it's the panel, the paint and the interior that pushes the value over the top". We are getting a lot of great choices out there. Also remember that aircraft brokers make a fair living representing their commission charged, not the sale incurred. Use the web. Communicate openly. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: N416EC RV-10 for Sale Why are you selling? 2006 RV-10 for sale. 305 hours TT. $217,500.00 Photos can be seen at http://www.myplane.com/ad/1466 For more information email N416EC(at)gmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: center of gravity
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Another way is that your CG (empty) is 8.96" aft of the leading edge of your wings (in theory). The usable CG is a dynamic which moves forward and aft from that imaginary point based on your current Load considerations. Tim did a great job talking about aft of Empty CG and Forward of Empty CG changes to the flight characteristics in your hand. Flying forward of 15% or Aft of 30% of the MAC is "Not a good thing". Sean Tucker safely crashed aircraft #3 when he lost the prop and hub which radically changed the Aft CG more than 8" beyond the maximum. Oh by the way, he was on the ground 53 seconds later and he had onboard video of it. Do not try this at home. Many builders relocate or locate components with little regard for their impact on the empty CG. A few builders have announced that they have a left of center/right of center change as well. One builder took exception to why anyone would want to relocate avionics off the panel and remotely mount them. It is all about manipulation of the final empty CG. VAN has designed us a conservative and flexible platform. Those flying can comment more meaningfully on this important issue to insurance rates and flying pleasure. YMMV John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: center of gravity Hey Guys, I've been wondering about this for awhile and Doug's "I have the Airflow system & my CG is 108.4" on the AC thread prompted me to just ask: Where is this 108.4" measured from? Probably obvious, but I haven't found it yet, and other general literature on COG talks about a reference point somewhere in front of the plane. It seems to be a very critical measurement. So far, I'm still head-down-building, but getting closer to needing to know stuff like this. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199261#199261 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Myron, I'm in the middle of installing an Airflow system in my rv-10. Feel free to give me a call to discuss. Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, Fl 561space432space5055 (h) 561space682space6668 (w) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199317#199317 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Travel
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Les, I recall the travel at the cable it +/- 2.25" forward and aft of center. Paul Grimstad RV10 450 ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 4:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Travel Hi Does anyone know (I am sure someone must) what the rudder pedal travel is from the lowest point +/- from a neutral position. Inquiring minds need to know. Cheers Les #40643 - Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Technologically Advanced Aircraft
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
>From time to time, I get slapped "offline" for giving too much or too little information to our group. Some just don't want to embrace the acronyms that are a woven part of our professional aviation heritage. AIG is a major insurance underwriter. Those are the guys that inflict the pain or save us money based on our actions. Training, Transition Training and Proficiency Training are topics they love. Now it's the new age glass cockpit. "Technologically Advanced". With it, proper training and proper care and feeding of your RV-10, the day will come where real money is saved. Attached is a primer for those looking to buy an existing aircraft or outfit their pride and joy. This is a personal decision made in consort with your better half, your banker, your life insurance agent and most importantly your valued Avionics Fabricator. Everyone approaches the subject from their own value system. Just food for thought. Deems, it's time we primed the pump for Proficiency Training at OSH '09. I'm still in on the panel idea. <> John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: center of gravity
Date: Aug 18, 2008
John Since you brought up MAC you might need to explain it in better detail and in a e-mail that might be tuff. OK pulling out the old Flight engineer hat for this one. MAC stands for Mean Aero dynamic cord and when referenced, cg is usually a % of the mac. In flying the c-5 for almost 15 yrs our cg ran from 41% of mac for aft cg to 29% of mac for fwd cg. The airplane empty an 397,000 lbs was usually at 39% of mac. And remember this does not include any fuel, crew, baggage, or cargo. It really is just a math calculation to figure it out. WG is still based on weight x arm for the moment then added together and referenced to the appropriate table to insure your in the cg envelope for your flight conditions. I have nod sat down and plotted the cg envelope for the -10 but I will and I will make a spread sheet and reference diagram that I will share with everyone. This brings up another issue I have seen on the list about when people weigh there plane. I think people do not understand what is required to get the basic airplane weight. The basic weight of the plane, Is the airplane with zero fuel, Engine with full oil as called out in the engines service manual. It the manufacture states 12 qts then there needs to be 12 qts in the oil system. No accessories in the plane, no head sets, tow bars, maps, or any pilots accessories, just the basic airplane. The airplane needs to be perfectly level on both axes vertical and horizontal, this is very critical to get accurate weights. The manufactures maintenance manual will give you the level points. Once these conditions are met then you can get a good weight and figure out the arm and moments then your basic empty weight cg. >From what I have seen with the large variance of numbers that have been posted here, It looks to me there needs to be some re-weighting that needs to be done very carefully. Ok that's my 2 cents worth. John G. Cumins #40864 Virtal Stab done starting rudder Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 9:51 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: center of gravity Another way is that your CG (empty) is 8.96" aft of the leading edge of your wings (in theory). The usable CG is a dynamic which moves forward and aft from that imaginary point based on your current Load considerations. Tim did a great job talking about aft of Empty CG and Forward of Empty CG changes to the flight characteristics in your hand. Flying forward of 15% or Aft of 30% of the MAC is "Not a good thing". Sean Tucker safely crashed aircraft #3 when he lost the prop and hub which radically changed the Aft CG more than 8" beyond the maximum. Oh by the way, he was on the ground 53 seconds later and he had onboard video of it. Do not try this at home. Many builders relocate or locate components with little regard for their impact on the empty CG. A few builders have announced that they have a left of center/right of center change as well. One builder took exception to why anyone would want to relocate avionics off the panel and remotely mount them. It is all about manipulation of the final empty CG. VAN has designed us a conservative and flexible platform. Those flying can comment more meaningfully on this important issue to insurance rates and flying pleasure. YMMV John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: center of gravity Hey Guys, I've been wondering about this for awhile and Doug's "I have the Airflow system & my CG is 108.4" on the AC thread prompted me to just ask: Where is this 108.4" measured from? Probably obvious, but I haven't found it yet, and other general literature on COG talks about a reference point somewhere in front of the plane. It seems to be a very critical measurement. So far, I'm still head-down-building, but getting closer to needing to know stuff like this. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199261#199261 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: FW: need part numbers
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Since I received no answers I decided to answer my own question. The Cleveland kit number for the mains is 199-104(A) non chrome. This breaks into 30-59A brake assembly and 40-59A wheel assembly. The linings are 066-11200. You may want to file this for future reference when it comes time to replace the brake linings. or wheel bearings etc. _____ From: David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net] Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:28 AM Subject: need part numbers Anyone have the Cleveland part numbers for the main wheel and nose wheel? also need brake lining Cleveland number. I thought I recorded them before I discarded the boxes but can not find. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
I spoke to Hartzell briefly this morning and asked about the composite prop. They said to check back in three months. -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199337#199337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
In less than three weeks, Rob Hickman should be able to give us all the information we need. Quieter, Smoother, Faster Climbing, and lasts longer with easier care and maintenance. Now it's VAN that needs to tell us the price. John 600 KUAO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30 Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:42 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade I spoke to Hartzell briefly this morning and asked about the composite prop. They said to check back in three months. -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199337#199337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: need part numbers
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
David, thanks for the contribution. I am interested in which Cleveland numbers Tim James went with to significantly improve his braking on the RV-10 as well. Tim had a post on brake lining replacements for DIY. Most builders are using commonly available automotive grease rather than an aeroshell product for the bearings. John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:12 AM Subject: RV10-List: FW: need part numbers Since I received no answers I decided to answer my own question. The Cleveland kit number for the mains is 199-104(A) non chrome. This breaks into 30-59A brake assembly and 40-59A wheel assembly. The linings are 066-11200. You may want to file this for future reference when it comes time to replace the brake linings. or wheel bearings etc. ________________________________ From: David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net] Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 11:28 AM Subject: need part numbers Anyone have the Cleveland part numbers for the main wheel and nose wheel? also need brake lining Cleveland number. I thought I recorded them before I discarded the boxes but can not find. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: center of gravity
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The Excel spreadsheet has been done and is in the Matronics archives (Tim and I have them as well). The weighing process is as you describe but many builders do not achieve balanced nirvana on the vertical and horizontal. Many are casual with the scale accuracy as well. Many weigh the aircraft Sans wheel skirts and fairings to get a beginning weight for the DAR. Those items come later in the Phase One completion (and may never be updated). VAN has designed the airfoil of the wing and established the minimum and maximum MAC as you describe. Rob Hickman's AFS Efis even allows a graphic presentation for up to the minute/up to the flight Weight and Balance changes. The large variance of numbers is due to/but not limited to avionics choices, trim servos, body putty on the composite pieces, size of battery and quality of fire suppression and noise suppression materials. All that up to each builder. What you left off is the aircraft being weighed needs to be out of the wind and elements to truly get a correct reading. If a DAR blows off the importance of an accurate list or proper weighing it is in the hands of the individual builder. If we are building... we should sure know what M.A.C. is. Note: When buying an aircraft. Have your Pre-purchase inspection include a Weight and Balance as part of the agreement. Takeoff 5% of the price for every 1% of weight variance and watch the seller squirm. If the Gross Weight is over the VAN approved RV-10 weight, take another 5% for every 1% of weight that is over limit without full FAA spin testing. Watch how quick the ink erasers come out. Though Dan Checkoway's weight table has fewer submittals than mine, his is easy to read and understand. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:53 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: center of gravity John Since you brought up MAC you might need to explain it in better detail and in a e-mail that might be tuff. OK pulling out the old Flight engineer hat for this one. MAC stands for Mean Aero dynamic cord and when referenced, cg is usually a % of the mac. In flying the c-5 for almost 15 yrs our cg ran from 41% of mac for aft cg to 29% of mac for fwd cg. The airplane empty an 397,000 lbs was usually at 39% of mac. And remember this does not include any fuel, crew, baggage, or cargo. It really is just a math calculation to figure it out. WG is still based on weight x arm for the moment then added together and referenced to the appropriate table to insure your in the cg envelope for your flight conditions. I have nod sat down and plotted the cg envelope for the -10 but I will and I will make a spread sheet and reference diagram that I will share with everyone. This brings up another issue I have seen on the list about when people weigh there plane. I think people do not understand what is required to get the basic airplane weight. The basic weight of the plane, Is the airplane with zero fuel, Engine with full oil as called out in the engines service manual. It the manufacture states 12 qts then there needs to be 12 qts in the oil system. No accessories in the plane, no head sets, tow bars, maps, or any pilots accessories, just the basic airplane. The airplane needs to be perfectly level on both axes vertical and horizontal, this is very critical to get accurate weights. The manufactures maintenance manual will give you the level points. Once these conditions are met then you can get a good weight and figure out the arm and moments then your basic empty weight cg. >From what I have seen with the large variance of numbers that have been posted here, It looks to me there needs to be some re-weighting that needs to be done very carefully. Ok that's my 2 cents worth. John G. Cumins #40864 Virtal Stab done starting rudder Your Total Technology Solution Provider ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Acronym's
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
If you have come across an acronym or phrase like CG, MAC, EFIS, AHRS, Flashpoint, burn rate, viscosity or Thixotrophic or any other of our daily lexicon and don't feel comfortable asking. Send me a private email. After 28 years of instruction, there are no dumb questions and it's the only way ole farts keep up with the young kids and their I-phone/facebook lingo. If it is a really GOOD ONE we will screen the submitter and send it worldwide for clarification. If it makes us all safer, then it is best to ask often. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore you. :^( > > From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Date: 2008/08/18 Mon PM 02:15:31 EST > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > In less than three weeks, Rob Hickman should be able to give us all the > information we need. Quieter, Smoother, Faster Climbing, and lasts > longer with easier care and maintenance. Now it's VAN that needs to > tell us the price. > > John > 600 > KUAO > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30 > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:42 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > I spoke to Hartzell briefly this morning and asked about the composite > prop. They said to check back in three months. > > -------- > Andrew Rayhill > RV-10 40078 > Phoenix > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199337#199337 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss is others gain. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore you. :^( > > From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Date: 2008/08/18 Mon PM 02:15:31 EST > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > In less than three weeks, Rob Hickman should be able to give us all the > information we need. Quieter, Smoother, Faster Climbing, and lasts > longer with easier care and maintenance. Now it's VAN that needs to > tell us the price. > > John > 600 > KUAO > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30 > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:42 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > I spoke to Hartzell briefly this morning and asked about the composite > prop. They said to check back in three months. > > -------- > Andrew Rayhill > RV-10 40078 > Phoenix > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199337#199337 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Van's Experimental IO-540
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Van's Experimental IO-540
CHRIS, I RECIEVED MY 540 LAST MONTH, YOU WILL RECIEVE A 1HR ENGIN RUN UP TEST LOG (ENGIN READY TO MOUNT AND FIRE UP) , MANUALS, ENGIN LOG, MAGS OF COURSE, AS FOR THE STARTER I HAVE NOT UNPACKED ALL THE FOAM AROUND ENGIN. DAVE LIUDVINAITIS #40466, FUSELAGE, FIBERGLASING, DOORS In a message dated 8/18/2008 6:57:57 P.M. Central Daylight Time, toaster73(at)embarqmail.com writes: Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for them ; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend here in Oregon. Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test data f rom it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van=99s is at the top of my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I=99ll have data to them this week. I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not trad e it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van=99s home coming on S aturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling me how quie t it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was amazed at how smoo th and quiet the plane was with this prop. In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss is other s gain. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.c om Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs up fro m Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you mention RV and it' s not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore you. :^( **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your trave l deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Experimental IO-540
Of course you don't really want those Slick mags right now that require immediate servicing to correct the recently discussed problems. If there isn't a starter, that would give you the chance to choose which flavor you like. DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com wrote: > CHRIS, > I RECIEVED MY 540 LAST MONTH, YOU WILL RECIEVE A 1HR ENGIN RUN UP > TEST LOG (ENGIN READY TO MOUNT AND FIRE UP) , MANUALS, ENGIN LOG, MAGS > OF COURSE, AS FOR THE STARTER I HAVE NOT UNPACKED ALL THE FOAM AROUND > ENGIN. > > > DAVE LIUDVINAITIS > #40466, FUSELAGE, FIBERGLASING, DOORS > > > In a message dated 8/18/2008 6:57:57 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > toaster73(at)embarqmail.com writes: > > Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's > experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the > plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. > What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, > break-in procedure etc. etc. > Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, > starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And > can any of these items be switched out or left off? > Thanks > Chris Lucas > #40072 Finishing...hah! > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
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From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Van's Experimental IO-540
Date: Aug 18, 2008
What sale? Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Van's Experimental IO-540
Date: Aug 18, 2008
www.Vanaircraft.com go to bottom of page there is a sale on a certain amount of engines. Pascal From: Carl Froehlich Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 6:50 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 What sale? Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Experimental IO-540
Go to vans website...they have an offer going on their engine deal with Lyc oming ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 6:50:33 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 What sale? Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental I O-540 engine.=C2- I am probably going to take the plunge before end of th e month with the "sale" price.=C2- What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV 10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ============ ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Van's Experimental IO-540
Date: Aug 18, 2008
The sale is until end of month, it says 11 engines at that price, but they will sell any amount of engines at the sale price until 8/30 I was told. -Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 Go to vans website...they have an offer going on their engine deal with Lycoming ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 6:50:33 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 What sale? Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:54 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Van's Experimental IO-540 Wondered if anyone could tell me what all comes with a Van's experimental IO-540 engine. I am probably going to take the plunge before end of the month with the "sale" price. What I am interested in is any type of paper work or user manuals, break-in procedure etc. etc. Also does anyone have the specs on the magnetos, engine fuel pump, starter, etc...those items actually included with the engine. And can any of these items be switched out or left off? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 Finishing...hah! http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: FW: need part numbers
I guess I can't fathom not using the specified grease for the bearings. Automotive wheels aren't asked to go from 0-80 in 1 second. They aren't asked to take side loadings from crosswinds and imperfect piloting. Tube of Aeroshell 5 is generally available under $10 at the airport, and will last for years. Heck, if more than one builder at airport, or local EAA chapter, do a shared resource buy if needed. I bought a tube of 5 and one of 6(for prop and other gear fittings on current aircraft) over 8 years ago, and am still using both. Bought separate gun for each grease, and total investment was under $50. Kelly John Cox wrote: > > David, thanks for the contribution. I am interested in which > Cleveland numbers Tim James went with to significantly improve his > braking on the RV-10 as well. > > > > Tim had a post on brake lining replacements for DIY. Most builders > are using commonly available automotive grease rather than an > aeroshell product for the bearings. > > > > John > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 18, 2008
I keep hoping the price will be affordable, wife is bought into the three blade, just not an expensive one, which leaves only MT at this point. I have hopes but she is really not happy about the blow off last time we spoke with Hartzell. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > In less than three weeks, Rob Hickman should be able to give us all the > information we need. Quieter, Smoother, Faster Climbing, and lasts > longer with easier care and maintenance. Now it's VAN that needs to > tell us the price. > > John > 600 > KUAO > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30 > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:42 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > I spoke to Hartzell briefly this morning and asked about the composite > prop. They said to check back in three months. > > -------- > Andrew Rayhill > RV-10 40078 > Phoenix > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199337#199337 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Acronym's
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2008
If you're the PIC, then you're the HMFIC and better CYA per FAR and SOP or some FNG/SOB from the FAA or NTSB will CNX your ATP/CFI and leave you SOL. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199460#199460 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Emailing: IMG_1204
Date: Aug 19, 2008
This is a picture of a bracket I bent. Note the tips up at the outboard sides of the bracket. I pull the racket down and insert/remove the belt. No scraping of the nyloon material on the glass. Of course if you have leather there it may be a non issue. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 19, 2008
Subject: MT propeller vs. Hartzell
Who has the closest RV-10 with an MT prop to Portland OR? I would like to compare the speed of my RV-10 with the Hartzell three blade to it. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2008
From: tony Dubeansky <mrdubea(at)yahoo.com>
First time on the forum even though I have been reading it daily and finding it very helpful for over a year... I am presently looking for a good deal on an engine for my RV10. I have found 2 mid-time engines, but I'm not sure that either will fit Van's motor mounts. One engine is a O- 540-A2B. The other is a O-540-A1D5. I called Van's and they advised me that the Lycoming engines had to have a #1 dyno mounting style. They were kind enough to send me a certified Lycoming aircraft engines model designation breakdown, but I still do not have any idea of the mounting style of either engine. If any of you have installed either engine or knows if they will fit Van's engine mounts, let me know. Another subject: My wife and I had the pleasure of attending and and camping with the RV10 at Airventure this year. It was fun to match faces to the writings on this forums. (We had the motor home with the big trailer.) Airventure truly has something for everyone. I went there for the airplanes; my wife thought it was a craft fair. Thank goodness for the Craft Tent! Thanks to all who helped make the camp such a success. Next year, my wife, Diane, and I would like to contribute by fixing a Texas Barbeque brisket dinner for one night's dinners. Thank you for any and all advice, Tony Dubeansky ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2008
From: tony Dubeansky <mrdubea(at)yahoo.com>
First time on the forum even though I have been reading it daily and finding it very helpful for over a year... I am presently looking for a good deal on an engine for my RV10. I have found 2 mid-time engines, but I'm not sure that either will fit Van's motor mounts. One engine is a O- 540-A2B. The other is a O-540-A1D5. I called Van's and they advised me that the Lycoming engines had to have a #1 dyno mounting style. They were kind enough to send me a certified Lycoming aircraft engines model designation breakdown, but I still do not have any idea of the mounting style of either engine. If any of you have installed either engine or knows if they will fit Van's engine mounts, let me know. Another subject: My wife and I had the pleasure of attending and and camping with the RV10 at Airventure this year. It was fun to match faces to the writings on this forums. (We had the motor home with the big trailer.) Airventure truly has something for everyone. I went there for the airplanes; my wife thought it was a craft fair. Thank goodness for the Craft Tent! Thanks to all who helped make the camp such a success. Next year, my wife, Diane, and I would like to contribute by fixing a Texas Barbeque brisket dinner for one night's dinners. Thank you for any and all advice, Tony Dubeansky ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: No Title
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2008
Tony, Looking forward to the BBQ! Either of those will work. The 540 engines have mount ears that determine exactly what they will mate up with. The ones that you need are Lycoming part number 70456 and have the smaller holes (about 1.25" diameter). These just bolt on and are replaceable if you wind up with the wrong ones. They are available new (expensive) or used (the Rocket builders need the large hole mount ears). Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199586#199586 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: No Title
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2008
For archival and reference purposes, Tim O. has collected a LOT of info from over the last few years and has it at http://www.myrv10.com/tips/index.html. If you look at the Engine Tips link from that page you'll find info on the mount ears, engine model details and a lot of other stuff. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199587#199587 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2008
Subject: Fitting cowling
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Can anyone that have their prop and spinner mounted, confirm that the distance from the face of the starter ring gear to the spinner is 1.75"? I don't have my prop yet and I want to fit the cowling by mounting a flat plate at 1.625" (1.75 - 1/8") from the face of the starter ring gear to fit the cowling. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2008
From: "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Enhanced Vision System
I noticed two vendors offering enhanced vision systems at AirVenture. They have come down in price significantly and hopefully will continue the downward trend. Has anyone had experience using one? I believe Husky was the first commercial builder to offer one last year. They look like they could provide a significant safety benefit. The two products I saw were the FLIR EVS3 and the Forward Vision EVS-100. Dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche Professor, Retired Penn State E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Oshkosh 08
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Hello, Does anybody have the website with all the pictures of the builders at Oshkosh this year? I saw them once but deleted the post so I can't find them now. Thanks. Brian..former RV10 builder
Hello,

Does anybody have the website with all the pictures of the builders at Oshkosh this year? I saw them once but deleted the post so I can't find them now.

Thanks.

Brian..former RV10 builder

________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Oshkosh 08
here's the link: http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV10%20HQ%20Mug%20Shots/index.html Deems cloudvalley(at)comcast.net wrote: > Hello, > Does anybody have the website with all the pictures of the builders at > Oshkosh this year? I saw them once but deleted the post so I can't > find them now. > Thanks. > Brian..former RV10 builder > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Oshkosh 08
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Hello Deems, Thanks! Brian -------------- Original message -------------- From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> > > here's the link: > > http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV10%20HQ%20Mug%20Shots/index.html > > Deems > > cloudvalley(at)comcast.net wrote: > > Hello, > > Does anybody have the website with all the pictures of the builders at > > Oshkosh this year? I saw them once but deleted the post so I can't > > find them now. > > Thanks. > > Brian..former RV10 builder > > * > > > > * > > > > >
Hello Deems,

Thanks!

Brian

&

________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2008
From: eric Ison <eison1969(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Options
I am about- to start pounding rivets on the emp cone.- I have done a fa ir amount of reading of the daily e-mails as well as Doug's site over the l ast few years, but I feel like I am missing some information. =0AI was caug ht slightly underprepared when I got to the instructions regarding not incl uding the tiedown rings.- Then I got the point of needing to decide wheth er I am using the van's static ports or not.=0AMy question is whether there is a list somewhere of all of the decisions I need to make?- I know ther e will be a ton when I get to panel/engine etc, but I would like to know "b efore starting the tail cone you may want to investigate which static ports you want to use".=0AI want to make informed decisions so I would like to b e prepared.- =0AIs there any such list?- Or do I need dig through every ones website to get the info?=0ABy the way, I love reading the daily e-mail s.- Frankly, I have no idea what the countersink cutter is all about, but I love to hear where it is headed next.=0AEric Ison=0A40764=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Options
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Aug 21, 2008
I've been there, friend. I did a panic and searched like you. I'm sure Van's static port is fine, but I went with SafeAir1: http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm There are other perfectly good vendors out there as well. I liked the complete kit from SafeAir1, it is really straight forward. Plan on some mounting points for tubing, wires, ELT, and Strobe Power Supply. Pre-drilled holes in the J-channels would have been great for me. Think conduit and Adel clamps. Diving the finished cone sucks. I would suggest you buy the Van's ELT/Strobe Power Supply mount. One look at it and you will feel a slap on your forehead (take the ring off first). It's a good way to mount anything on those j-channels. By the way, you do have the latest Service Bulletin, right? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199781#199781 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 21, 2008
I am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiation and that it should not be placed (very conveniently and easily) under the front seats. My avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation. Since I need to decide the placement pretty soon , does anybody have a comment on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toes, three heads, and an IQ of 63. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199856#199856 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2008
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
Mike, The aluminum skin on the belly of the aircraft will provide more than ample protection between the antenna and your...ahem...jewels. Besides, the duty cycle/PEP of transponder transmissions isn't really a threat to human tissues as much as it is to adjacent antennas of other avionics. That's where your real concern should be and plan accordingly. Brian Nashville N104BS Flying AirMike wrote: > > I am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiation and that it should not be placed (very conveniently and easily) under the front seats. > > My avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation. > > Since I need to decide the placement pretty soon , does anybody have a comment on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toes, three heads, and an IQ of 63. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199856#199856 > > > > . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Subject: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Put it in the tunnel by your feet. This is where I will put mine: http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/antenna.html The good new is that aluminum does provide ~some~ shielding from radio waves. With a composite aircraft, you would definately have to worry. This is one of the reasons I have one of my comm antennas on the fuselage top. I know most put both on the belly for looks. Think of when you are operating out of towered fields and are using ground communications or god forbit land hard off airport and rip out the belly antennas. Even in my Cessna with BOTH comm antennas on the top, occasionally, depending on my position on the field, there are issues communicating with ground and clearance. I can't imagine this being any better with both comm antennas on the belly. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiation and that it should not be placed (very conveniently and easily) under the front seats. > > My avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation. > > Since I need to decide the placement pretty soon , does anybody have a comment on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toes, three heads, and an IQ of 63. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199856#199856 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
The transponder antenna emits 250w of power and is the most powerful transm itter in the plane. One problem is the antenna transmitting back into the t ransponder unit and also transmitting into the COM antennas. Check your ins tallation specifications for your transponder and com radios - it should pr ovide guidance on the transponder antenna.=0AThe Garmin 330 specs 8 feet of coax from the antenna back to the unit and the Garmin 430 specs greater th an 36 inches from com antenna to transponder antenna. So you need to study both units to determine placement.=0ABTW if you are using a bent whip under neath the belly for COM then the VSWR (range) will be much better if you in stall the antenna aft of the trailing edge. This location-sets up the tra nsponder to be installed-underneath the seats or just behind the firewall in the tunnel. I was originally concerned that the transponder antenna wou ld be close to the exhaust tubes and soak up too much heat if installed all the way forward in the tunnel but this turned out to be not a problem.=0AB ill DeRouchey=0AN939SB, flying=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFro m: AirMike =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu rsday, August 21, 2008 6:16:30 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Glowing genitles an abel(at)Pacbell.net>=0A=0AI am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiati on and that it should not be placed (very conveniently and easily) under th e front seats. =0A=0AMy avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation.=0A=0ASince I need to decide the placeme nt pretty soon , does anybody have a comment on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toes, three heads, and an IQ of 63. =0A=0A--------=0AOSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09=0AQ/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here: =0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199856#199856=0A=0A=0A - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admi ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Knowing about the separation and the ground control issue, I have placed my com antenna (vertically - facing up) at the rear of the fuse almost to the tail cone fairing (just over the pitch control unit) Might try the Archer or the Vans Nav antenna in the wing tip rather than the more effective cat whiskers on the tail -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199868#199868 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Bill is spot on. Review the documentation for your unit. The position relative to your cohoneys is not relevant given: 1. the antenna cannot be too close to the transponder unit, 2. the antenna cannot be too close to obstructions eg gear legs, 3. the natenna cannot be too close to other antennas 4. the length of RG400 cable between the xpdr and antenna should not exceed a given length (or an alternate cable is required) I have deliberately exlcuded distances etc because I don't know what Xpdr you plan to use - the above were ceratinly considerations for my GTX 327. For the record, I have one belly mount comm whip under the pilot seat and the XPDR antenna is close to the centreline just aft of the rear wing spar/fuse carrythrough that meets the requirements above, as best I could. cheers, Ron 187 paint prep ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Friday, 22 August 2008 12:17 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glowing genitles and three headed babies The transponder antenna emits 250w of power and is the most powerful transmitter in the plane. One problem is the antenna transmitting back into the transponder unit and also transmitting into the COM antennas. Check your installation specifications for your transponder and com radios - it should provide guidance on the transponder antenna. The Garmin 330 specs 8 feet of coax from the antenna back to the unit and the Garmin 430 specs greater than 36 inches from com antenna to transponder antenna. So you need to study both units to determine placement. BTW if you are using a bent whip underneath the belly for COM then the VSWR (range) will be much better if you install the antenna aft of the trailing edge. This location sets up the transponder to be installed underneath the seats or just behind the firewall in the tunnel. I was originally concerned that the transponder antenna would be close to the exhaust tubes and soak up too much heat if installed all the way forward in the tunnel but this turned out to be not a problem. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying ----- Original Message ---- From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 6:16:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Glowing genitles and three headed babies I am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiation and that it should not be placed (very conveniently and easily) under the front seats. My avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation. Since I need to decide the placement pretty soon , does anybody have a comment on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toes, three heads, and an IQ of 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
Guys, You need to think about some positive points...having been exposed to many a bad chemical I've grown a small tail...granted..it's shocking but I can t ell you, there's nothing like a tail...nobody ever doubts when your happy.. .cause your tails "wags", if your scared...it goes between your legs...when a good bird is near...it stands up...given all the benefits of=C2- mutat ion due to radiation from our transmitters...fear not...you can get a tail too!! Once you learn to put the "fly" of your underwear towards the back... to allow room for your tail...all is good...The down side is, you don't nee d to use the fly in your underwear up front anymore...seems when you grow a tail...the portion that used to protrude in the front...shrivels up and fa lls off, but heck your tail still wags!!! Rick Sked 40185 do not achive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron McGANN" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 8:34:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Glowing genitles and three headed babies Bill is spot on.=C2- Review the documentation for your unit.=C2- The=C2 -position relative to your cohoneys is not relevant given: 1.=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-the=C2-antenna cannot be too close to the trans ponder unit, 2.=C2-=C2-=C2- the antenna cannot be too close to obstructions eg gea r legs, 3.=C2-=C2-=C2- the natenna cannot be too close to other antennas 4.=C2-=C2-=C2- the length of RG400 cable between the xpdr and antenna should not exceed a given length (or an alternate cable is required) I have deliberately exlcuded distances etc because I don't know what Xpdr y ou plan to use - the above were ceratinly considerations for my GTX 327. For the record, I have one belly mount comm whip under the pilot seat and t he XPDR antenna=C2-is close to the centreline just aft of the rear wing s par/fuse carrythrough that meets the requirements above, as best I could. cheers, Ron 187 paint prep From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Friday, 22 August 2008 12:17 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glowing genitles and three headed babies The transponder antenna emits 250w of power and is the most powerful transm itter in the plane. One problem is the antenna transmitting back into the t ransponder unit and also transmitting into the COM antennas. Check your ins tallation specifications for your transponder and com radios - it should pr ovide guidance on the transponder antenna. The Garmin 330 specs 8 feet of coax from the antenna back to the unit and t he Garmin 430 specs greater than 36 inches from com antenna to transponder antenna. So you need to study both units to determine placement. BTW if you are using a bent whip underneath the belly for COM then the VSWR (range) will be much better if you install the antenna aft of the trailing edge. This location=C2-sets up the transponder to be installed=C2-unde rneath the seats or just behind the firewall in the tunnel. I was originall y concerned that the transponder antenna would be close to the exhaust tube s and soak up too much heat if installed all the way forward in the tunnel but this turned out to be not a problem. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying ----- Original Message ---- From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 6:16:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Glowing genitles and three headed babies I am trying to decide where to place my transponder antenna. I was told by another builder that it emits quite a bit of radiation and that it should n ot be placed (very conveniently and easily) under the front seats. My avionics tech told me "no problem - not an issue". No appreciable amount of radiation. Since I need to decide the placement pretty soon , does anybody have a comm ent on radiation and transponders. I do not want my Grandkids to have 8 toe s, three heads, and an IQ of 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D "'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10- List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D matronics.com 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D "Warning: Th e information contained in this email and any attached files is confidentia l to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohib ited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediatel y. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachment s are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure vir us checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to yo ====================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to you r wallet=C2-though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it?=C2- I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> To: "RV-10 matronics" Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Glowing genitles and three headed babies
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 21, 2008
Thanks for the educational and amusing responses. I checked the archive on this topic and found out that this topic had been hashed before in November of 06. Of the interesting comments: How do you like 'em- sunny side up, over easy, hard boiled or poached. Scrambled is not an option. Inquiring organs want to know. >From Mr. Jesse Saint: I put mine on the tunnel just aft of the firewall, which allows for a very short wiring run and keeps it away from the other cables and antennas. I have the comms under the pilot and copilot. The main thing I would recommend, if you are comfortable putting it under your seat, would be that you have at least 30-36 inches between it and the comms, which shouldn't be a big problem. Also, I understand that it is a good idea to keep the cable run separate from your other antennas. >From the ultimate guru : Robert L. Nuckolls, III A hangar myth. Folks have looked at the peak output power rating of a transponder (100 to 250W) and tried to make a connection between a desire to make one's airplane visible to a distant radar receiver and cooking meat. When you buy a microwave, it too is rated in the hundreds of watts . . . but CONTINUOUS duty. A good 700W microwave will boil a cup of water in about 2 minutes. (Remember the traveler's immersion heaters in the hardware store? They're 300W heaters and take about 4 minutes to boil a cup of water). If you measure the current draw of this machine, it will be on the order of 8-9 amps or 1000W total input. Your transponder draws about 1.5 amps while being interrogated for a total input power of 18W. The output comes in the form of a series of 0.5 uSec pulses in respond to an interrogation that represent a string of binary numbers representing either your squawk code (mode A) or altitude (mode C). Assuming you are interrogated once per second (quite often) your average output power for a 250W transponder is on the order of 250W x 20 pulses x 0.0000005 seconds/1 second or 2.5 milliwatts per second. This isn't going even going to warm up much less cook anything. Another fallacy of the myth concerns body parts most sensitive to microwave radiation . . . turns out that your eyes are the most vulnerable . . . but the story isn't nearly so interesting to really macho pilots. None the less, there are folks who have armor-shielded their seat bottoms in deference to this myth. The story was REALLY popular about 15 years ago in the heyday of the Long-Ezs -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199882#199882 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Hi Dave, Go to http://www.comant.com and look for the VOR/GS/LOC entry in the single engine plane entries. Any of them will do; I personally went for the CI-158 C3, and Vans can supply any of them. Best wishes, Rodger --- On Fri, 22/8/08, Dave Leikam wrote: > From: Dave Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna > To: "RV-10 matronics" > Date: Friday, 22 August, 2008, 4:49 AM > Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style > VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a > "Bob Archer" style. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA (Reserved) > Muskego, WI Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: LAS visit
Date: Aug 22, 2008
I will be in LAS for the dates Sept 29 ,30, Oct 1 for a company reunion; I will be staying on the strip. Any recommendations for airports, hangars, fuel etc. There should be enough time for a ride or two. N46007 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: LAS visit
Date: Aug 22, 2008
VGT is the closest, but talk to me off line. My email is above. Bob K 702 767-3587 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 4:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: LAS visit I will be in LAS for the dates Sept 29 ,30, Oct 1 for a company reunion; I will be staying on the strip. Any recommendations for airports, hangars, fuel etc. There should be enough time for a ride or two. N46007 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: LAS visit
Date: Aug 22, 2008
I have flown into Vegas at least a half of dozen times and have found HND (Henderson) to be my favorite. LAS is not bad if you can find a parking spot, but that is hard to do. On an Angel Flight mission, I flew into LAS arriving about 30 minutes after sun up and it was beautiful, the controller had me fly toward the Stratosphere, then hang a left basically flying parallel to the strip, wish I would have had a video camera. HND is about 10 miles to the south, plenty of ramp space, very nice FBO (run by the city I think), and a shuttle to take you to the Strip. Fuel was $5.40 when I was there on the 4th of July. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 5:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: LAS visit I will be in LAS for the dates Sept 29 ,30, Oct 1 for a company reunion; I will be staying on the strip. Any recommendations for airports, hangars, fuel etc. There should be enough time for a ride or two. N46007 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: tip on wing construction
Date: Aug 22, 2008
The bellcrank and other inspeciton panels have #6 standard nutplates at the corners. You might consider replacing these with single wing nutplates. When the standard nutplate gets damaged there , the rivet on one end is under the skin there. It changes an easy repair to one which requires some finesse. BTDT. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: tip on wing construction
Interesting... just as I finish putting the skin over them. Of course, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't damage them - so curious minds want to know, what happened? Just a mis-thread with a power driver or ? David McNeill wrote: > The bellcrank and other inspeciton panels have #6 standard nutplates > at the corners. You might consider replacing these with single wing > nutplates. When the standard nutplate gets damaged there , the rivet > on one end is under the skin there. It changes an easy repair to one > which requires some finesse. BTDT. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Subject: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
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From: "Markaire, Inc." <markaire(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Would anyone be interested in a kit to install Precise Flight speed brakes on a RV-10? These are the same units available on the Mooney - there are also STC's for Bonanzas, 210's etc. They can be added after the wing has been constructed - I just did it - but it is a lot of work (ie a LOT of rivets have to be drilled out, doublers installed, 2 ribs replaced, etc). If installed during construction of the wing it would add about 25 to 30 hours to the job - doing it after the fact would be about 3 weeks!!! The kit would consist of all doublers, brackets, access plates, ribs, etc plus instructions - I could even supply the speed brake itself (I'm a Precise Flight dealer). I'm guessing that the cost, including the speed brakes from Precise Flight would be about $6K but that is only a guess at this point. Anyone interested contact me at markaire(at)gvtc.com or 830-439-2507. Ed Markline builder # 40675 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose wheel fairing length
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Hey John, It took longer than I thought to get back to it but here are the pictures showing the hole cut past the flange in the rear nose fairing. Everything lines up and I don't see why it won't work just fine. By the way, I ended up reinforcing several times the countersunk holes where the fairing attaches to the gear on all wheels. This still seems like a weak point to me, and we may go with countersunk washers to spread the force ... but then it wouldn't look so slick. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199971#199971 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/nose_3_medium_141.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/nose_2_medium_208.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/nose_1_medium_994.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Make your own out of a piece of wire and glass it into the bottom cowl. A simple dipole will work well, and it will not be out in the breeze. Something like 50=9D total length (25=9D each side), fed in the middle with RG-58 coax, and don=99t worry about bending it around the bottom of the cowl. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked <mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matr onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.c om/contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: tip on wing construction
Date: Aug 22, 2008
paint shop tried to start the screw with power screw driver _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 10:17 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: tip on wing construction Interesting... just as I finish putting the skin over them. Of course, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't damage them - so curious minds want to know, what happened? Just a mis-thread with a power driver or ? David McNeill wrote: The bellcrank and other inspeciton panels have #6 standard nutplates at the corners. You might consider replacing these with single wing nutplates. When the standard nutplate gets damaged there , the rivet on one end is under the skin there. It changes an easy repair to one which requires some finesse. BTDT. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Not as good reception. Maybe I can bolt a Bob Archer antenna to the bulkhead instead of doing the SB! Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:23 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Ya, go do your SB and then get an Archer. HA! Seriously though, why not an Archer? Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:56 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> To: "RV-10 matronics" Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.ma tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://forums.matronics.c om"'>http://forums.matronics.com3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com/ contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ======================= =EF=BD~=EF=BD=03 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Will this work for VOR/GS/LOC reception? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Froehlich To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 4:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Make your own out of a piece of wire and glass it into the bottom cowl. A simple dipole will work well, and it will not be out in the breeze. Something like 50=9D total length (25=9D each side), fed in the middle with RG-58 coax, and don=99t worry about bending it around the bottom of the cowl. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:56 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> To: "RV-10 matronics" Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.ma tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://forums.matronics.c om"'>http://forums.matronics.com3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com/ contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Chief Aircraft has the Comant CI-158C for $272.50: http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/Antennas/ComantIndustries-NAV.html#ci157 Here's how I installed it on my Vertical Fin: Page 1: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=564&category=0&log=60040&row=43 Page 2: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=564&category=0&log=60041&row=42 Page 3: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=564&category=0&log=60639&row=10 Looks great. Should work great. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 At 05:25 PM 8/22/2008 Friday, Dave Leikam wrote: > >Not as good reception. Maybe I can bolt a Bob Archer antenna to the bulkhead instead of doing the SB! > >Dave Leikam >RV-10 #40496 >N89DA (Reserved) >Muskego, WI >----- Original Message ----- >From: <mailto:rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>RV Builder (Michael Sausen) >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:23 PM >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna > >Ya, go do your SB and then get an Archer. HA! Seriously though, why not an Archer? > > > >Michael > > > >From: <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam >Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:56 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna > > > >Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? > > > >Dave Leikam >RV-10 #40496 >N89DA (Reserved) >Muskego, WI > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>Rick Sked > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna > > > >Dave, > >Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 > > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dave Leikam" <<mailto:daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> >To: "RV-10 matronics" <rv10-list(at)matronics.com> >Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles >Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna > >Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. > > > >Dave Leikam >RV-10 #40496 >N89DA (Reserved) >Muskego, WI > > > > > > >3D============================================ >href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >3D============================================ >href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com >3D============================================ >href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution >3D============================================ > > > > > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > >~ > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel fairing length
Date: Aug 22, 2008
Thanks, Lew. That's a really nice fit, and you don't have to fiddle with riveting the scrap back! We wound up just slightly (1/4") fitting the rear nose wheel fairing to the vertical post, and letting the rear fairing be long. On the suggestion of an experienced local builder, we put a couple layers of 9 oz. where the bracket-fairing mounting screws are before glassing the bracket/fairing mounting pads. Good idea! All seems well. The forward nose wheel fairing is not thick enough, so there is a flow "trip" where the intersection is. Doing it over again, I would put a few layers of glass on the interior of the forward fairing before fitting and match drilling the two. That would smooth the intersection and also reinforce the countersunk holes in the forward fairing. Am contemplating whether or not do to something similar even now, although keeping the hole locations would be tough. Alternatively, the area will have to be faired out with micro. John Ackerman 40458 On Aug 22, 2008, at 1:46 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey John, > > It took longer than I thought to get back to it but here are the > pictures showing the hole cut past the flange in the rear nose > fairing. Everything lines up and I don't see why it won't work just > fine. > > By the way, I ended up reinforcing several times the countersunk > holes where the fairing attaches to the gear on all wheels. This > still seems like a weak point to me, and we may go with countersunk > washers to spread the force ... but then it wouldn't look so slick. > > Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna
Date: Aug 22, 2008
It will work the same as any other VOR antenna. If your nav has a built in splitter like the SL-30, you need nothing else. If not, then you will need to add a splitter so that you connect the antenna to the VOR and GS antenna connections. The electrical properties of this or any other dipole (whisker) type VOR antennas are essentially the same. The fact that glide slope frequencies (329-335 MHz) are an odd multiple of VOR frequencies (108-118MHz) is why one antenna tuned as a half wave dipole for the lower frequency works just as well on the higher frequency. While an antenna mounted in the cowl will have some shadowing of aft stations and thus not perform as well as one in the clear (like the top of the VS), for most practical applications I would estimate the difference will be minor. Considering the high signal strengths for close in work (VOR or ILS approaches) and that my cross country navigation is GPS, I do not see any gain to have a perfectly optimized VOR antenna. Your application may be different. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 8:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Will this work for VOR/GS/LOC reception? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Froehlich <mailto:carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 4:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Make your own out of a piece of wire and glass it into the bottom cowl. A simple dipole will work well, and it will not be out in the breeze. Something like 50=9D total length (25=9D each side), fed in the middle with RG-58 coax, and don=99t worry about bending it around the bottom of the cowl. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Van's sells a Rami for $137. Any other suggestions? Anyone? Anyone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked <mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 11:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Dave, Aircraft Spruce sells Comant brand whiskers for GS/LOC/VOR...hang on to your wallet though...about $450 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:49:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Cat whisker VOR/GS/LOC antenna Can anyone recommend a good "whisker" style VOR/GS/LOC antenna and where to get it? I do not want a "Bob Archer" style. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matr onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.c om/contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Emailing: P1300045
Date: Aug 23, 2008
Ricks interview and comments again brought to mind my own findings with the 10. These aircraft engines rarely fail for catastrophic mechanical reasons. Almost always they fail for lack of fuel, fire or air. The attached picture shows the bottom of an orange bucket after the flush of my QB tanks with mineral spirits. Note the black specks on the bottom. It took multiple flushes of each tank, first with mineral spirits and then with av gas, to remove the flakes of pro seal. Even after 50 hours and multiple fill ups I still got a speck the size of a pinhead from the left tank sump. It may have been stopped by the screen, at any rate it washed into the sump drain valve. Suggest flushing the tanks, deburring the flares on the aluminium, and blowing out the lines with compressed air. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 23, 2008
Subject: Local crash and my media interview
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Subject: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2008
I've thought about installing speed brakes, however I never flown with them. While I understand the benefits of having them, I'm not sure if they would be necessary on the 10. Could anyone with more experience share their thoughts? Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0091#200091 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
Date: Aug 23, 2008
There are a couple of instances where it would be nice to have the speed brakes. (1) on top of an icy cloud layer and a descent is required through it; (2) a IFR approach at 120+ for spacing and needing to slow 70kts to land at the Class B airports; (3) a descent in rough air where the descent must be rapid but there is a requirement to keep airspeed below Va. There are occasional instances where speed brakes would be nice but the cost and time to install does not justify for my current flying. I will keep my $10000 and exercise a little prior planning which will all know prevents PP performance. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 8:56 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10 --> I've thought about installing speed brakes, however I never flown with them. While I understand the benefits of having them, I'm not sure if they would be necessary on the 10. Could anyone with more experience share their thoughts? Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0091#200091 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2008
Here's my dos centavos. Speedbrakes were designed primarily around high speed high, altitude jets that have very little drag increase when the power is brought back. At my day job there are instances where they are necessary, but mostly get used when either the pilot or ATC screws up. There is a reason why they are often referred to as "bozo boards". Bringing a propeller driven aircraft back to idle with the prop in flat pitch makes for a terrific speed brake. Likewise, a quick 360 is a lot easier in an RV than a Boeing. RV's are all about efficiency. You burned money (fuel) to get that altitude and speed which is energy in the bank that you paid for. Speed brakes dump that energy overboard. I have nothing against those who want them and am all for cool new things, but for me personally, I would rather put the weight and expense into something else and manage my energy as efficiently as possible without dumping it overboard. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0131#200131 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Speed brake installation kit for RV-10
Re sailplanes - most do have spoilers but they are used primarily for landing approach control instead of or in conjunction with flaps. In an aircraft with abundant lift and no engine, spoilers are a superior means of approach path control. They can even be retracted without concern. Flaps-only gliders exist but they are a bit more challenging to fly. I've never heard them called 'bozo boards' in glider circles (ouch) but it may seem appropriate when they are used to avoid being sucked into a cumulus and PCA over the Sierras. Bill "a glider guider before a Maule driver" Watson John Cox wrote: > Energy Efficiency is even more apparent with sailplanes ... so I guess I > am lost why some use "Bozo Boards". > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Tail light/strobe (A500) offer if needed
Date: Aug 23, 2008
My wife bought me a LED nav position/strobe light set and that leaves me with a new, never used/still in box A500 I wont need. Before I offer it up on the Vansairforce list wanted to see if anyone needs one. Van's sells it for $140, if interested contact me off list pascal(at)rv10builder.net with best offer. Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dickk9(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 23, 2008
Subject: Re: Tail light/strobe (A500) offer if needed
Pascal, where did she get the LED nav position/strobe light set? Dick **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Chelton limits file
Date: Aug 23, 2008
I was having difficulty setting the parameters in the Trutrak DF II and the Cheltons for the VNAV functions. Some of the limits file labels are not self explanatory and documentation is limited. I called Chelton Flight Systems and got the new numbers in Texas at S-TEC. No initial help there but I called Greg Schmidt, the western regional sales manager while waiting a call back from our normal contact. He happened to be in Phoenix and at Falcon field in Mesa. He came by the hangar and we modified the limits file to allow proper communication between the Chelton PFD and the DF II. The VNAV function seemed to be working well now; the only change I still need to test is a lowering of the Vproc speed to a value low enough allow the aircraft to land after the approach. If anyone wants a copy of my limits file as a starter file for their system, just advise direct to my email and I will attach the limits by return email. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing...
Dear Listers, Backing into the garage today I noticed the elevator skin bowing at the trailing edge in the review mirror because of the way the light was hitting it. Basically what the deal is I think is that I bent the trailing edge of the elevators more than necessary. So, when I pulled the leading edge apart to fit it over the spar, I now have a concave bowing effect between some of the bays. Van's goes to great lengths in the manual to make sure that bend the elevator trailing edges *enough*, but doesn't make mention of what is "too much". The radius of the trailing edge is still within spec and there is no cracking or stress marks. Its just bent too much and looks like of stupid. Somehow, I did the rudder perfectly, but both elevators suffer from the effect. I've included some pictures below. What the common thought on this issue? Are the safety/flutter issues with over-bending as I have done? What to do...? Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 RV-8 Fuse/Wing QB Kit Delivery Next Week! (Ordered May 20 2008) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 24, 2008
Subject: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
Most GPS units also have a Vertical Navigation calculator to assist in y our descent. With the Avmap you just choose your glideslope and it wil l continuously figure when to descend and at what FT/Min. You can also set a point X number of miles out from endponit to get down to PA. Of course using ones gray matter is another usesful way to calculate descen t rate..........mmmmmmmm.......3 miles/min. and need to decend 9000 ft. and I am 33 miles out.........nah..........use the GPS and EFIS. Dean 805HL (To Northern MN over Labor Day) ____________________________________________________________ Stop foreclosure. Click here to stay in your home and rebuild credit. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iie35sUW5BnQ2VaNiDMjyvo u65vHFnZ6t94pK1L019maXdGDy/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Tail light/strobe (A500) offer if needed
Date: Aug 23, 2008
creativair From: Dickk9(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tail light/strobe (A500) offer if needed Pascal, where did she get the LED nav position/strobe light set? Dick ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: eBay listings for mag, gears and starter
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2008
A few engine accessories that I have left over have been listed for sale on eBay. Slick Impulse Magneto 6350 LYCOMING (150286842891) >> Not subject to SB584 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0194#200194 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2008
From: "Ronald Grover" <rv8grover(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV10 Upholstery Shop
While at Oshkosh, many folks asked who did my interior, and I didn't have any of Frank's business cards. Frank Collins Upholstery is located at Propwash Airport in Justin, TX. Frank does a really good job and his web site is here: www.frank-collins-upholstery.com I can send you a picture if you contact me offline. Ron Grover 40063 N324RG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing...
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 24, 2008
Matt, On the RV-10, the elevator is a 3-piece rivited trailing edge. I am not that familiar with the RV-8 but it looks like my RV-6. I have never heard of any flutter issues on the elevator due to this condition and your problem appears to be primarily esthetic. Bending the trailing edges is always a little tricky and on the ailerons, too little (or too much) can cause one wing to be "heavy". Van talks about this in the manual and you can correct the heavy wing by pinching the trailing edge, ie, make the radius smaller. The slight bowing on the skin is also of no concern, and under flight loads the skins will do this regardless. Since your radius is within spec, I don't see a safety issue here. The only problem is is whether or not you can live with it. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB building fuselage Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0227#200227 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2008
Subject: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing...
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Yeah, this happened to my first trim tabs. Fortunately, or un, the trim tab is the only flying surface of the -10 that uses this construction technique. Us 9 & 10 builders have the AEX extrusion and Proseal to contend with for our flying surfaces with their own "got ya's." With the trim tabs, I created a brake from 2X4 to provide a more continuous mold while curing than the V brackets called for in the plans. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > Dear Listers, > > Backing into the garage today I noticed the elevator skin bowing at > the trailing edge in the review mirror because of the way the light > was hitting it. Basically what the deal is I think is that I bent > the trailing edge of the elevators more than necessary. So, when I > pulled the leading edge apart to fit it over the spar, I now have a > concave bowing effect between some of the bays. Van's goes to great > lengths in the manual to make sure that bend the elevator trailing > edges *enough*, but doesn't make mention of what is "too much". The > radius of the trailing edge is still within spec and there is no > cracking or stress marks. Its just bent too much and looks like of > stupid. Somehow, I did the rudder perfectly, but both elevators > suffer from the effect. I've included some pictures below. > > What the common thought on this issue? Are the safety/flutter issues > with over-bending as I have done? What to do...? > > Thanks! > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 > RV-8 Fuse/Wing QB Kit Delivery Next Week! (Ordered May 20 2008) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Speedbrake installation kit for RV-10
...to continue down the OT glider discussion I would submit that the devices used on glider wings serve to degrade the L/D performance of aircraft independent of whether they are called spoilers, dive brakes, or speed brakes. Whether you spoil lift or increase drag - you will come down at a greater rate and everything else being equal, you will slow down. Cases on point: - The Schweitzer 1-34, a 60s vintage a metal glider had "terminal velocity" dive brakes. You could point the ship straight down with what I assume you would call 'dive brakes' and you would not exceed Vne. There was nothing special about Vne, but just a good example of the drag created by what is now a typical glider 'spoiler' configuration. I understand that more than a few modern sailplanes have spoilers capable of terminal velocity performance, but simply haven't been fully tested and certified as such. - Trim a modern sailplane for a typical approach speed, apply the 'spoilers', and try to maintain the same pitch attitude without losing speed. Or conversely, apply spoilers and note the pitch change required to maintain speed. I'm thinking the banking devices on an MU-2 would properly be called (lift) spoilers since their function is drop a wing with minimal drag. The landing approach devices on gliders do varying amounts of lift spoiling and drag increasing based on their design but few are primarily 'spoilers' and most are very effective dive/speed brakes by design. And some like those on the Schweitzer 2-22 are excellent side slip trainers because they barely do anything at all. OK, I've returned home aboard the Maule on a very nice soaring day her in NC. Now I'm ready to go do some building before this weekend gets away. John Gonzalez wrote: > > To call them speed brakes on a sailplane is incorrect as mentioned before. To use them to reduce speed may cause real problems, as in very hard landing even at high speed. Correctly, they are for altitude loss and control, causing the glider wing to be less efficient. > > A real speed brake....think of an A-1 Skyraider with those barn doors that come out of the side of the fuselage so they can point the nose straight down at the ground and not overspeed. > > About to put the sailplane away and get back to building. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris, Susie, Darcy" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: oil consumption
Date: Aug 25, 2008
For those that are flying after 40 hours I am using 1 quart every 7 hours. Is this to much? I know what the manual says but if one went by that you would have to take spare oil on every flight! Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: O-540 A2B?
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Aug 24, 2008
I'm hoping those of you more expert than I in the issues involved with using lycomings closely related to the recommended models can enlighten me here. I'm looking at a O-540 A2B. From what I can dig up, this model has short propeller governor studs, which I think is a good thing, but it lacks counterweights, which I understand to make it incompatible with Van's recommended compact hub props. Can one simply use a steel hub prop certified for use with this engine? Are there any other issues I should think about? Thanks in advance, -Andy -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0333#200333 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 24, 2008
Rob; Are you using a MT governor or the Hartzell governor with the 3 blade prop? Any speed test done yet? max speed, climb speeds etc?? Thanks! Pascal From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend here in Oregon. Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van=99s is at the top of my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I=99ll have data to them this week. I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van=99s home coming on Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop. In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss is others gain. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore you. :^( ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2008
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: QB Wing Questions
Hi This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps. While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper might work but was wondering what others have used. As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ? Inquiring minds need to know. Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: QB Wing Questions
Date: Aug 24, 2008
Hi Les, There should be plenty of material for tapping the tie downs. I had no problem here. Just go slow, use plenty of oil, and reverse out the tap often to clear the threads. I then used a small angled pick to remove chips from the holes. I used a small Vixen file to put a bevel on the skin edges for overlapping. Again, go slow and steady and keep a constant angle. Be sure to remove some material from the aft edge of the skins so they do not buckle and cause oil canning. You'll see what I mean after you cleco the skins on the first time. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: LES KEARNEY To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions Hi This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps. While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper might work but was wondering what others have used. As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ? Inquiring minds need to know. Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: QB Wing Questions
Date: Aug 25, 2008
trim the forward edge of the skin with a file or sanding block because riveting causes flattening of the skin and extends it .010-.015. results in a slight ridge. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 9:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions Hi Les, There should be plenty of material for tapping the tie downs. I had no problem here. Just go slow, use plenty of oil, and reverse out the tap often to clear the threads. I then used a small angled pick to remove chips from the holes. I used a small Vixen file to put a bevel on the skin edges for overlapping. Again, go slow and steady and keep a constant angle. Be sure to remove some material from the aft edge of the skins so they do not buckle and cause oil canning. You'll see what I mean after you cleco the skins on the first time. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: LES KEARNEY <mailto:Kearney(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions Hi This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps. While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper might work but was wondering what others have used. As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ? Inquiring minds need to know. Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB Wing Questions
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Hey Les, On the forward edge (I think Dave may have also meant forward instead of aft ...?) I headed the advice of others and paid attention when clecoing to see what they were talking about. Sure enough, the forward edge needed to be trimmed on both finishing panels. Since the amount that needed to come off was consistent, I ran the edge of a felt sharpie along the edge of the aluminum to give me a guide mark, then just used the belt sander to shave it off. Then debur and it gave a nice straight edge -- no oil canning, but bruised upper arms stretching to the max to back those hard to reach rivets! Here's a copy of a previously posted rivet pattern, if you didn't see it. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0382#200382 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/bottom_wing_skin_rivetting_pattern_168.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB Wing Questions
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 25, 2008
I also used the belt sander. Goes much quicker and I think you can get a very uniform taper. Watch it that you don't stay in one spot to long as the AL can get very hot. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0387#200387 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: SpeedBrakes
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
I bumped into a guy at Oshkosh from Bend, OR, whose small firm had engineered a speed brake installation for RV-10s. He implied they had done at least one installation already. I think they were Precise Flight brakes. I didn't ask the price . . . TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant
Folks, According to the James gang, a number of folks have converted a non-RV10 mainwheel pant for use as a RV10 nosewheel pant. I'm sorta doing this also as I have put a larger nosewheel fork assembly on my 6A and have upgraded the mainwheels to a larger tire. I had already purchased the James mainwheel pants so they are available for this mod. Here's what I have done so far: 1. Drilled and clecoed the two halves together so that it can be worked as a unit. 2. Measured and cut the bottom hole so the tire will stick out the bottom - I used the provided axel markings as my reference point. 3. Called Sam James to talk about the clearance between the top of the tire and the inside upper wall of the wheel pant. Sam graciously took my call on a Sunday, relieved my clearance fears, offered the info on other folks converting the main pant to a 10 nosepant, and reminded me to 'land on the mains'. 4. Measured and marked where the 'new' front cut will go - to accomodate the nosegear leg and fork. Here's what I'm getting ready to do: 1. Add the mudflap wall to the inside of the rear half - per instructions. 2. Fiberglass the original two halves together at the original cut line. 3. Make the 'new' front cut and glass in the attachment flange so it will go back together. 4. Install the (new one-piece-per-side) nosewheel pant attach brackets to the nosewheel fork. 5. Level the longerons on order to properly align the 'waterline' of the pant to flight level. 6. Drill the attach bracket holes through the pant and bracket. My real angst is the 'new' cut line....where should it go? My common sense tells me that the top of the aft part should end right behind the nosegearleg - but where is that? I tried to match the angle of the plans cut-line for their nosewheel pant and I'm not as concerned about the angle as I am the placement up top. I would appreciate any comments, suggestions, photos, measurements, and encouragement from anyone that has accomplished this feat of fiberglass manipulation. Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: SpeedBrakes
Date: Aug 25, 2008
checked their site. about 4K plus another 35-50 hours of labor. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: SpeedBrakes I bumped into a guy at Oshkosh from Bend, OR, whose small firm had engineered a speed brake installation for RV-10s. He implied they had done at least one installation already. I think they were Precise Flight brakes. I didn't ask the price . . . TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel
pant
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Out of curiosity what is achieved by doing this? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:15 AM Subject: RV10-List: James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant --> Folks, According to the James gang, a number of folks have converted a non-RV10 mainwheel pant for use as a RV10 nosewheel pant. I'm sorta doing this also as I have put a larger nosewheel fork assembly on my 6A and have upgraded the mainwheels to a larger tire. I had already purchased the James mainwheel pants so they are available for this mod. Here's what I have done so far: 1. Drilled and clecoed the two halves together so that it can be worked as a unit. 2. Measured and cut the bottom hole so the tire will stick out the bottom - I used the provided axel markings as my reference point. 3. Called Sam James to talk about the clearance between the top of the tire and the inside upper wall of the wheel pant. Sam graciously took my call on a Sunday, relieved my clearance fears, offered the info on other folks converting the main pant to a 10 nosepant, and reminded me to 'land on the mains'. 4. Measured and marked where the 'new' front cut will go - to accomodate the nosegear leg and fork. Here's what I'm getting ready to do: 1. Add the mudflap wall to the inside of the rear half - per instructions. 2. Fiberglass the original two halves together at the original cut line. 3. Make the 'new' front cut and glass in the attachment flange so it will go back together. 4. Install the (new one-piece-per-side) nosewheel pant attach brackets to the nosewheel fork. 5. Level the longerons on order to properly align the 'waterline' of the pant to flight level. 6. Drill the attach bracket holes through the pant and bracket. My real angst is the 'new' cut line....where should it go? My common sense tells me that the top of the aft part should end right behind the nosegearleg - but where is that? I tried to match the angle of the plans cut-line for their nosewheel pant and I'm not as concerned about the angle as I am the placement up top. I would appreciate any comments, suggestions, photos, measurements, and encouragement from anyone that has accomplished this feat of fiberglass manipulation. Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10
nosewheel pant Here's the background as I see it...... There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to the nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when, where, why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a new fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The purpose of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height of the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been significantly reduced. In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by putting a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires, giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims. The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are the same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match. Hope this helps. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Subject: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10
nosewheel pant
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
I'm still a little confused; Are you building a 6 with bigger tires or are you trying to modify the James 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant to an RV-10 nosewheel? William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Here's the background as I see it...... > > There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to the nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when, where, why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a new fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The purpose of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height of the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been significantly reduced. > > In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by putting a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires, giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims. > > The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are the same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match. > > Hope this helps. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as
RV10 nosewheel pant Both - the bigger tires include the nosewheel which is the equivalent of a 10 nosewheel. I'm trying to put a SJ 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant on my 10 sized nosewheel. -----Original Message----- >From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> >Sent: Aug 25, 2008 10:44 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: re: RV10-List: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant > > >I'm still a little confused; Are you building a 6 with bigger tires or are you trying to modify the James 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant to an RV-10 nosewheel? > >William >http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > >-------- Original Message -------- >> >> Here's the background as I see it...... >> >> There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to the nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when, where, why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a new fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The purpose of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height of the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been significantly reduced. >> >> In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by putting a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires, giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims. >> >> The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are the same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match. >> >> Hope this helps. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: QB Wing Questions
I did the 'scarf' on one wing using a variety of things. A die grinder mounted disk sander was most effective. I know it sounds like the wrong tool but it worked well. Sanding a scarf using a block with fine paper may exhaust your patience. Having done it, I did not think it worthwhile. Yes, look at what the QB builders did on the top skin overlap. They just knocked the exposed corner off at 45 degrees. Looks nice. I ended up not even doing that for the bottoms. I found enough material to tap the tiedowns. As recommended by others, use plenty of lube and back out often. This is not a place you want to break off a tap (as if there is anywhere you want to break off a tap). I used a vacuum to clean out the chips. Bill Watson LES KEARNEY wrote: > Hi > > This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the > botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how > to improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps. > > While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, > they neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from > a chain saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine > grit sandpaper might work but was wondering what others have used. > > As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at > the ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough > material to allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ? > > Inquiring minds need to know. > > Les Kearney > #40643 - some assembly required > > > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: QB Wing Questions
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Oops! Yes I meant forward, sorry. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Questions > > Hey Les, > > On the forward edge (I think Dave may have also meant forward instead of > aft ...?) I headed the advice of others and paid attention when clecoing > to see what they were talking about. Sure enough, the forward edge needed > to be trimmed on both finishing panels. > > Since the amount that needed to come off was consistent, I ran the edge of > a felt sharpie along the edge of the aluminum to give me a guide mark, > then just used the belt sander to shave it off. Then debur and it gave a > nice straight edge -- no oil canning, but bruised upper arms stretching to > the max to back those hard to reach rivets! > > Here's a copy of a previously posted rivet pattern, if you didn't see it. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0382#200382 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/bottom_wing_skin_rivetting_pattern_168.pdf > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Nosewheel spacers U-1023
Date: Aug 25, 2008
For those who haven't upgraded to the new style nosewheel spacers per the Service Letter, here's what the wheel eventually does if the spacers are allowed to loosen up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxZJ2E_qZxo I could feel this play in the towbar while moving the plane. This customer bought a new fork because it was cut up from the thin SS original style spacers. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake Linings
From: "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 25, 2008
AircraftSpruce price is for each lining and you will need 4 at $16, I just purchased them...will purchase from Van's in the future, I just needed them faster than Van's could ship. -------- MARK SUTHERLAND RV-10 40292 Flying since June 07 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0492#200492 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: N929EH Flies!
News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can see here: http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which is one of the things that is unique about his plane. He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled real well...and he was very pleased with the performance. The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully, and here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare yourself... Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag on the other, just like I and many other have. In this case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and the plane started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only (which only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and said he had a beautiful landing. Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on their first flight. So be aware any time you're flying in these current times with Slick mags having known problems, and if you get strange missing, perhaps try running on R or L instead of Both. It will most likely run much better than having that failed mag sparking at the wrong times. Now if they could only get their parts issues figured out at Unison and do an industry wide recall and exchange of these mags, or at least provide free rebuild kits to all owners, it would be a very good thing indeed. Thank goodness as experimental builders we have the electronic ignition options we do have...its becoming one of our great benefits. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: trim tab hinge pin
From: "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net>
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Hi All, I have seen plans for a better way of securing the trim tab hinge pins somewhere but can't find any reference to it now that the time is approaching. I saw what looked like a pdf with instructions a while back. Does anyone have a link or if you have the pdf could you email it to me? Thanks so much in advance, Bill Cannon BC777(at)optonline.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0510#200510 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
I have the MT govenor, speed test is scheduled for this week. Jennifer and I flew it to Seattle on Sunday and we got the following speeds: 8500 FT 2450 RPM Full Throttle 169-171 KTS True Airspeed Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: N929EH Flies!
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Congratulations Ed! Look forward to seeing your plane land here at Bend in the near future. I'm sure we're in your fly off zone. Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner is on us. Thanks for believing in our capabilities as much as we believed in yours. John Strain Harold Custard Flightline AC, Inc. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 12:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: N929EH Flies! News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can see here: http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which is one of the things that is unique about his plane. He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled real well...and he was very pleased with the performance. The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully, and here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare yourself... Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag on the other, just like I and many other have. In this case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and the plane started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only (which only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and said he had a beautiful landing. Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on their first flight. So be aware any time you're flying in these current times with Slick mags having known problems, and if you get strange missing, perhaps try running on R or L instead of Both. It will most likely run much better than having that failed mag sparking at the wrong times. Now if they could only get their parts issues figured out at Unison and do an industry wide recall and exchange of these mags, or at least provide free rebuild kits to all owners, it would be a very good thing indeed. Thank goodness as experimental builders we have the electronic ignition options we do have...its becoming one of our great benefits. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Old fuse, new plans...
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 25, 2008
I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the fuselage at the wing root. I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is different. Do any of you know why this was changed? The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector. I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Old fuse, new plans...
Date: Aug 25, 2008
In my plans, the fuel line is one piece from the tank to the fuel valve. I used a rubber grommet in the 1 inch hole. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:19 PM Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans... I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the fuselage at the wing root. I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is different. Do any of you know why this was changed? The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector. I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: DAR Costs
Date: Aug 25, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
RV-10 List, What are people paying for DAR reviews? Robin Airworthiness Certificate in hand... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: APRS System
Date: Aug 25, 2008
Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as required. Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: APRS System
Date: Aug 25, 2008
I plan to do a similar thing. I got my technicians license about a month ago but have been too busy flying and fixing to think about APRS. Byonics has developed an AIO (all in one) unit which I plan to power via a switch on the panel and place the unit and the antenna (a shortened aircraft bent whip) in the right wing/fuselage fairing. Probably won't get it working before first annual as I need to remove some interior panels on the right side. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: APRS System Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as required. Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Old fuse, new plans...
I have Rev 1 plans that shows a 1 piece fuel line. I guess I have a Rev 0 QB fuse. In any case, I bought some extra fittings and used some large aluminum washers to hold the fittings in the large tunnel hole. Just couldn't make sense out of the single piece fuel line and the Andair valve I ended up using. Bill Watson Lenny Iszak wrote: > > I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the fuselage at the wing root. > > I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is different. > > Do any of you know why this was changed? > > The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector. > > I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those. > > Regards, > Lenny > #40803 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Subject: APRS System
Like others I plan on putting mine on out in the wingtip and getting the power from the Nav lights. That way it's off when the Nav lights are which covers 99% of the scenarios I wouldn't want it on. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 11:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: APRS System Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as required. Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Old fuse, new plans...
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Lenny; I would discourage you copying Tim's plans that are 2 revisions behind yours. I would call Van's and ask for insight. You should have all the parts to go with the plans, if you don't Van's will send you what you are missing. Last week I had an issue with a piece that wasn't on the packing list at all, Van's sent me the part without question saying I should have it and it's on the way. They have been excellent with customer support and tech support through my build. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:19 PM Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans... > > I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw > the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits > the fuselage at the wing root. > > I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the > Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is > different. > > Do any of you know why this was changed? > > The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector. > > I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those. > > Regards, > Lenny > #40803 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Torque Tube Support Brackets
Listers, Did anyone have any difficulty placing the W-1029A and W1029B Torque Tube Support Bracket assembly into the W1010-R wing rib? It seems that the assemble is about 1/16 or greater longer than the space between the flanges of the rib. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Subject: Re: Old fuse, new plans...
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
It sounds like the new revision plans are doing what many builders (Bob Newman and me) have done and installed bulkhead fittings at the fuselage instead of a continuous tubing run from selector to tank. I'd really like to see what other changes they have instituted. Per the previous message from Bob, you probably want to use a large rubber grommet rather than solid washers as per AC 43, you do not want tubing between bulkheads without some type of strain relief. http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10%20construction%20project.htm William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Lenny; > I would discourage you copying Tim's plans that are 2 revisions behind > yours. I would call Van's and ask for insight. You should have all the parts > to go with the plans, if you don't Van's will send you what you are missing. > Last week I had an issue with a piece that wasn't on the packing list at > all, Van's sent me the part without question saying I should have it and > it's on the way. They have been excellent with customer support and tech > support through my build. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> > Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:19 PM > To: > Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans... > > > > > I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw > > the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits > > the fuselage at the wing root. > > > > I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the > > Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is > > different. > > > > Do any of you know why this was changed? > > > > The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector. > > > > I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those. > > > > Regards, > > Lenny > > #40803 > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: RV10 Upholstery Shop
Date: Aug 26, 2008
I missed Osh this year so I missed out on seeing your interior, can you post some pictures of the front and back seats? Thanks! Pascal From: Ronald Grover Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Upholstery Shop While at Oshkosh, many folks asked who did my interior, and I didn't have any of Frank's business cards. Frank Collins Upholstery is located at Propwash Airport in Justin, TX. Frank does a really good job and his web site is here: www.frank-collins-upholstery.com I can send you a picture if you contact me offline. Ron Grover 40063 N324RG ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Tube Support Brackets
Ed, I think we all ran into this, it is a tight fit, If I recall I polished the top and bottom of the bracket to a slight curved shape with the scotchbrite wheel untill it fit perfectly. Once you start to round the edges, it will slide into place much easier. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:19:44 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Torque Tube Support Brackets Listers, Did anyone have any difficulty placing the W-1029A and W1029B Torque Tube Support Bracket assembly into the W1010-R wing rib? It seems that the assemble is about 1/16 or greater longer than the space between the flanges of the rib. Ed Godfrey 40717 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 26, 2008
When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only on e RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he was a little reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake size. Have any other used this combination or will the original user step forward and say what size rings they have had success with. Thanks=2C John G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Subject: Old fuse, new plans...
That's funny, I had no idea they did that but it's exactly what I ended up doing. I used a rubber grommet and then captured it between a couple fender washers to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=1703&log=57694&row=2 Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans... It sounds like the new revision plans are doing what many builders (Bob Newman and me) have done and installed bulkhead fittings at the fuselage instead of a continuous tubing run from selector to tank. I'd really like to see what other changes they have instituted. Per the previous message from Bob, you probably want to use a large rubber grommet rather than solid washers as per AC 43, you do not want tubing between bulkheads without some type of strain relief. http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10%20construction%20project.htm William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially his fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and approval from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already mentioned. The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in being available for RV-10's once it became avilable. Price is the only thing standing in the way now.. Pascal From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend here in Oregon. Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van=99s is at the top of my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I=99ll have data to them this week. I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van=99s home coming on Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop. In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss is others gain. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore you. :^( ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 26, 2008
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers alt air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter. The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air. Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions. > > From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> > Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 11:26:35 EST > To: > Subject: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 > > > When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only one RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he was a little reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake size. > > Have any other used this combination or will the original user step forward and say what size rings they have had success with. > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell numbers. 8500 FT 2450 RPM Full Throttle 169-171 KTS True Airspeed When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy, you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your options package. No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles, and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than what Van's puts out for numbers. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying pascal wrote: > Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of > response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin > at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially > his fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and > approval from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already > mentioned. > The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the > details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something > they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob > already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that > certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in > being available for RV-10's once it became avilable. > Price is the only thing standing in the way now.. > > Pascal > > > *From:* RobHickman(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for > them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend > here in Oregon. > > > > Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft > manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test > data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are > going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from > Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Vans is at the top of > my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, Ill have data to them > this week. > > > > I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not > trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Vans home coming on > Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling > me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has > built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was > amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop. > > > > In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this > stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. > > > > Rob Hickman > > > > N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop > > N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop > > > > > > > > In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: > > > > Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss > is others gain. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > rv(at)thelefflers.com > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs > up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent > quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If > you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will > ignore you. :^( > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal > *here* <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>. > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers alt air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter. The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air. Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 26, 2008
It has always been my opinion that fiberglass is such a forgiving medium that all that is required for good results is the willingness to grind away what you don't like and reglass new stuff to make it like you want. Like anything it is a learned skill, just keep trying and have fun. Gary Specketer 40274 flying -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)

August 12, 2008 - August 26, 2008

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dp