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RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dq
August 26, 2008 - September 06, 2008

Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:45 PM
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html Michael -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers alt air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter. The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air. Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: APRS System
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this? Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency. Jim C N312F =========================================================== From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 12:20:55 EDT Subject: RV10-List: APRS System Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as required. Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV =========================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Interesting, I actually heard from one person who told me " I spoke to Rob Hickman at Oshkosh to get an idea of the 3-blade composite prop performance on his trip to OSH from Oregon. He told me that he was able to keep up with is buddy that was flying an RV-10 with the 2-blade prop. The difference being that Rob was about 500 lbs. heavier since he was carrying his family and luggage. I think Rob was very pleased with the performance of the 3-blade prop." Rob is searching for that MT in Portland to do a comparo, but I figured if the information I received on Rob's trip to OSH is accurate that tells me it can keep up with a 2 blade. Your points are good ones about prop choice. Rob Thoughts? Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers > that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the > MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell > numbers. > > 8500 FT > 2450 RPM > Full Throttle > 169-171 KTS True Airspeed > > > When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop > we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb > rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb > speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop > doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders > will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have > any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many > individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some > other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose > an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy, > you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could > destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your > options package. > > No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to > go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles, > and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more > good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because > right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than > what Van's puts out for numbers. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > pascal wrote: >> Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of >> response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin at >> Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially his >> fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and approval >> from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already mentioned. >> The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the >> details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something >> they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob >> already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that >> certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in >> being available for RV-10's once it became avilable. >> Price is the only thing standing in the way now.. >> Pascal >> *From:* RobHickman(at)aol.com >> *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade >> >> This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for >> them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend >> here in Oregon. >> >> Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft >> manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test data >> from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are going to >> have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from Van's. Getting >> performance data to Hartzell and Vans is at the top of my list for the >> RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, Ill have data to them this week. >> >> I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not >> trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Vans home coming on >> Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling >> me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has >> built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was >> amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop. >> >> In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this >> stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. >> >> Rob Hickman >> >> N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop >> >> N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop >> >> In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >> rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: >> >> >> >> Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss >> is others gain. >> >> Michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> rv(at)thelefflers.com >> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade >> >> >> Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs >> up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent >> quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If >> you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will >> ignore you. :^( >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal >> *here* >> <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>. >> >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c >> * >> >> * >> >> >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: APRS System
Date: Aug 26, 2008
See the following: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tracker.htm Sam has a great site there that applies to more than just his RV6. On Aug 26, 2008, at 1:16 PM, wrote: > > Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this? > > Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency. > > Jim C > N312F > > =========================================================== > From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> > Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 12:20:55 EDT > To: > Subject: RV10-List: APRS System > > Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the > Amateur > Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting > position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about > using it. I > thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the > equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and > powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder > containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at > Fry's > Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the > rubber > duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the > unit on > the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. > Seems to > work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on > the > internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/ > rescue as > required. > Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the > plane and > wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm > doing > something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the > position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give > speed, > heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, > required > from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the > board > and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the > transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a > cable > made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh > and a > trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to > fly to > burn up gas but now it to make tracks! > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > N991RV > > =========================================================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Subject: Re: APRS System
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote: > > Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this? > > Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency. > Yes, you do. It is a federal violation if you transmit on those frequencies without an amateur radio license. It is also very easy to pass the test to get your ham license, so there really isn't any excuse. Anyone that can get a pilot's license should have no trouble getting a ham license: <http://www.hello-radio.org/hello/doityourself.html> -Dj N1JOV -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson! Michael it would be great if life were that simple... For those that don't know I have: * BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction * James Plenum Installed * James Cowl Installed * Airworthiness certificate in hand * First flight ~2 weeks Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing builder) before & during OSH this year and there is NO good news. There is absolutely no way that Rod's unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold Induction. The space between the standard "Smile" air inlet and the injector body is just too short. The angles are all wrong and the spun canister conflicts in a major way with components on the underside of the engine and the lower cowl. A major modification to the James cowl much like Deems did would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" air inlet shape unaltered. Also of note there are a couple of different Forward Facing Cold Air Induction systems available from BPE. I happen to have the latest design which is different from Deems. Additionally there are different Injector Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known as the Model 300 while Deems has the Model 200 which is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know about the different Cold Induction systems or the different size Injector Body units. His response was "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. They have been waiting for a customer to develop a system and then send them a copy to use as a basis for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky business model if you require your customers to be responsible for your R&D. The largest challenge with the James cowl installation is the air box. We believe we have come up with a solution that is simple and straight forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't have photos (yet) of the transition from the Injector body to the Air Filter but I should have them soon. Attached are photos of the forward portion of the air box / filter mounted to the cowl very close to the air inlet. The angle of the filter allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the portion of the air box attached to the injector body. Note that the injector body is less than 3" away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit there is no way it would come close to fitting in this space. General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good write up on general fit however we seemed to have different issues when fitting our cowl. There was absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as is. We could get the front & right to fit but not the left. Or the left & front to fit but not the right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. When all else fails pull out the saw! We split the lower cowl on the centerline of the cowl starting from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg slot) and ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large split allowed us to easily fit all sides and give the cowl enough "relief" to attach w/o any tension. 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl fit perfectly. (Cowl Filter 3.jpg shows the lower cowl split patch) I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the any combination mentioned. Robin RV-4 Sold RV-6A 440 Hours RV-10 Soon RV-8A Purchased partially built One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
The only difference in the 2 systems that Robin mentions is how the intake pipes mount to the plenum chamber. On Deems and a few others (Michael), the intake pipes connect with a 72711 o-ring. With the revision A plenum, we have swedged a 1-5/8 pipe to the plenum and secure the intake pipe with a hose and 2 clamps. This makes for a better connection and gives a small increase in HP. However, it does not change the location of the plenum or the servo. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:50 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson! Michael it would be great if life were that simple... For those that don't know I have: * BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction * James Plenum Installed * James Cowl Installed * Airworthiness certificate in hand * First flight ~2 weeks Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing builder) before & during OSH this year and there is NO good news. There is absolutely no way that Rod's unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold Induction. The space between the standard "Smile" air inlet and the injector body is just too short. The angles are all wrong and the spun canister conflicts in a major way with components on the underside of the engine and the lower cowl. A major modification to the James cowl much like Deems did would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" air inlet shape unaltered. Also of note there are a couple of different Forward Facing Cold Air Induction systems available from BPE. I happen to have the latest design which is different from Deems. Additionally there are different Injector Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known as the Model 300 while Deems has the Model 200 which is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know about the different Cold Induction systems or the different size Injector Body units. His response was "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. They have been waiting for a customer to develop a system and then send them a copy to use as a basis for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky business model if you require your customers to be responsible for your R&D. The largest challenge with the James cowl installation is the air box. We believe we have come up with a solution that is simple and straight forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't have photos (yet) of the transition from the Injector body to the Air Filter but I should have them soon. Attached are photos of the forward portion of the air box / filter mounted to the cowl very close to the air inlet. The angle of the filter allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the portion of the air box attached to the injector body. Note that the injector body is less than 3" away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit there is no way it would come close to fitting in this space. General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good write up on general fit however we seemed to have different issues when fitting our cowl. There was absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as is. We could get the front & right to fit but not the left. Or the left & front to fit but not the right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. When all else fails pull out the saw! We split the lower cowl on the centerline of the cowl starting from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg slot) and ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large split allowed us to easily fit all sides and give the cowl enough "relief" to attach w/o any tension. 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl fit perfectly. (Cowl Filter 3.jpg shows the lower cowl split patch) I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the any combination mentioned. Robin RV-4 Sold RV-6A 440 Hours RV-10 Soon RV-8A Purchased partially built One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Tim I know you have the 2 blade prop on your plane, what are the tas numbers that you see in thee same conditions. Inquiring minds need to know. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell numbers. 8500 FT 2450 RPM Full Throttle 169-171 KTS True Airspeed When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy, you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your options package. No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles, and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than what Van's puts out for numbers. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying pascal wrote: > Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of > response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin > at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially > his fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and > approval from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already > mentioned. > The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the > details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something > they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob > already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that > certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in > being available for RV-10's once it became avilable. > Price is the only thing standing in the way now.. > > Pascal > > > *From:* RobHickman(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for > them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend > here in Oregon. > > > > Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft > manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test > data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are > going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from > Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van's is at the top of > my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I'll have data to them > this week. > > > > I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not > trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van's home coming on > Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling > me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has > built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was > amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop. > > > > In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this > stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve. > > > > Rob Hickman > > > > N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop > > N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop > > > > > > > > In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: > > > > Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss > is others gain. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > rv(at)thelefflers.com > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade > > > Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs > up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent > quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If > you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will > ignore you. :^( > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal > *here* <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>. > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fiberglass hazard
Date: Aug 27, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Folks, Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull (sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on the -10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts, but did not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up close work. Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the glass (cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were issue free. Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about two months ago (easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop vacuumed). In recent weeks I have noticed some irritation around the eyes after sanding the glass. This irritation has now blown into a significant allergy in my eyes - not a good thing for a pilot! Spent some time doing some final sanding for paint on Friday, had very sore eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on Sunday to find my eyelids swollen such that I could barely open my eyes. Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not use full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of goggles that cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out! I had heard (but did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins erodes gradually. You think you are suffering no ill effects until - bang!, your resistance is gone, and this stuff really makes you crook. I now BELIEVE!! Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles, make sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed. And do this 10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially epoxies and isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal anecdote may hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues. Cheers, Ron 187 paint prep. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Ok, I'll fess up with what we did.- For cold air induction we used the st d Vans cowling.... but also purchased a scoop with K&N filter kit that they use on the F1 Rocket.- I have quite a few pics on the process... so if a nyone wants more let me know.- Attached are the basics. Don McDonald #40636 --- On Tue, 8/26/08, rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote: From: rv(at)thelefflers.com <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 10:19 AM This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Power s alt air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter. The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air. Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions. > > From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> > Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 11:26:35 EST > To: > Subject: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 > > > When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only one RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he wa s a little reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake s ize. > > Have any other used this combination or will the original user step forward and say what size rings they have had success with. > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fiberglass hazard
Date: Aug 26, 2008
I am sorry to hear of your allergic reaction. A small % of folks react to either the resin or the fibers. This is not a wide spread phenomenon. In my experience over 40 years of working with the stuff and as safety director of a research facility, I have seen it only a few times. I know this doesn't make you feel better, but I don't want folks to think that epoxy is universally bad news. As with any chemical take it slow, wear protection and use good safety practices. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass hazard Folks, Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull (sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on the -10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts, but did not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up close work. Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the glass (cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were issue free. Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about two months ago (easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop vacuumed). In recent weeks I have noticed some irritation around the eyes after sanding the glass. This irritation has now blown into a significant allergy in my eyes - not a good thing for a pilot! Spent some time doing some final sanding for paint on Friday, had very sore eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on Sunday to find my eyelids swollen such that I could barely open my eyes. Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not use full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of goggles that cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out! I had heard (but did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins erodes gradually. You think you are suffering no ill effects until - bang!, your resistance is gone, and this stuff really makes you crook. I now BELIEVE!! Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles, make sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed. And do this 10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially epoxies and isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal anecdote may hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues. Cheers, Ron 187 paint prep. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 26, 2008
I had some fuel tank labels made and have a few extras I am willing to part with. They fit nicely around the cap and I will let them go for $12/pair shipping included. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Don, Where did you get that scoop? I was thinking about using something like that with the James Cowl. Just to have that "Rocket smile" :) Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0803#200803 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: APRS System
Date: Aug 26, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Yes, but when Wi-Fi and telephoney go down it will still be up. You Facebook generation types you might have to watch a Mickey Rooney moviee from Netflix when he played Andy Hardy to get the full impact. Hurricane Katrina drove the point over the top again. W7COX John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Sent: Tue 8/26/2008 11:16 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: APRS System Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this? Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency. Jim C N312F ========= From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 12:20:55 EDT Subject: RV10-List: APRS System Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as required. Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks! Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Old fuse, new plans...
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 26, 2008
William, I like the idea of using the bushings because I want to run flexible fuel lines to the wing root. Do you know if anyone sells them, or do i have to make my own? Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0822#200822 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: DAR Costs
Date: Aug 26, 2008
I paid $425. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: DAR Costs RV-10 List, What are people paying for DAR reviews? Robin Airworthiness Certificate in hand... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Fiberglass hazard
Date: Aug 26, 2008
Ron, Sorry to hear about that. I hope you can finish up and still enjoy at least part of the process. I once got a rash from some carbon I was cutting, but it disappeared and never came back. Now I'm more careful with the dust. I think you're on the right track--once you kind of fill your personal resistance reservoir, it overflows quickly. In 10 years and with at least 50 customers and employees exposed, I've only seen one other reaction that I'm sure of; there's annecdotal evidence of a few more, similar to yours. As Gary pointed out, it could be to the fiberglass or to the resin. Farm out the rest if you can. A lot of aircraft paint shops are pretty good with fiberglass finishing. Good Luck, Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass hazard Folks, Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull (sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on the -10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts, but did not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up close work. Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the glass (cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were issue free. Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about two months ago (easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop vacuumed). In recent weeks I have noticed some irritation around the eyes after sanding the glass. This irritation has now blown into a significant allergy in my eyes - not a good thing for a pilot! Spent some time doing some final sanding for paint on Friday, had very sore eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on Sunday to find my eyelids swollen such that I could barely open my eyes. Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not use full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of goggles that cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out! I had heard (but did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins erodes gradually. You think you are suffering no ill effects until - bang!, your resistance is gone, and this stuff really makes you crook. I now BELIEVE!! Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles, make sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed. And do this 10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially epoxies and isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal anecdote may hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues. Cheers, Ron 187 paint prep. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Nose Gear Ideas
Date: Aug 26, 2008
There has been quite a bit of discussion about the need to frequently re-tighten the nose gear castle nut, especially when the plane is new, and there seems to be some consensus that this is due to =93parts wearing in=94. One of us suggested that the Belleville washers be lapped to expedite the break in. This seemed pretty sensible, even if the washers don't move against each other much. I lapped ours lightly using SiC paper wet on a glass plate, starting with 180 grit. Very little effort produced a nice smooth contact surface. More recently, our local RV Guru and multiple repeat offender pointed out that he has had to flatten the part equivalent to the WD-1031 Axle Flange on RVs that he has built. This part bears and moves on the bronze bushing of the nose fork assembly, and undoubtedly wears into that bushing. Ideally, the flat of the 1031 flange and the surface of the bronze are well-mated and distribute the forces evenly. WD-1031 is a weldment ' essentially, a steel tube is welded into a hole in a flat plate. You wouldn=92t expect it to be really flat and square. We disassembled the nose gear and inspected the =93flat=94 surface. It was not. The tube protruded from the flat surface perhaps 0.030=94 at the front sides and was recessed maybe 0.015" across the back, and the flat was slightly warped (as would be expected). I lapped the flat of the WD-1031 flange using the same technique as for the Belleville washers, but removing a great deal more material. The protrusion and most of the warpage came off fairly quickly, but to get at the recessed surface, it was necessary to remove metal from the whole flat surface. That is slow. The photos show the surface in the early stages of flattening (the gray is the painted surface of the part; most of the protrusion is gone) and at the end of the process where most of the recess and all of my patience had been removed. J A leather glove is strongly recommended! The nose wheel now casters much more smoothly than before, and when it=92s greased, the grease emerges evenly all around, rather than in one spot. John Ackerman 40458 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Old fuse, new plans...
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> I like the idea of using the bushings because I want to run flexible fuel lines to the wing root. > > Do you know if anyone sells them, or do i have to make my own? Not that I'm aware of but I guess you can ask Bob Newman for the one he made and are not using because he is using the rubber washers. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > Regards, > Lenny > #40803 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0822#200822 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Gary, I'd be happy to take a pair off your hands. Sheldon Olesen 5073 Hwy 70 Webster, WI 54893 We've been working on the upholstery ( about 1/2 finished) and doing some color sanding. The graphics guy is coming on Friday so most of the painting will be done. I do have to finish up some screw ups however. I think I'll get to the airport about mid-Sept. When I have your address I'll send you a check. I see the 'Dogs are ranked #2 in preseason so I'm sure Brenda is anxious for the season to begin. Sheldon On Aug 26, 2008, at 8:02 PM, gary wrote: > I had some fuel tank labels made and have a few extras I am willing > to part with. They fit nicely around the cap and I will let them > go for $12/pair shipping included. > > > Gary Specketer > > 40274 Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 27, 2008
I also have the BPA cold air and James cowl. I am ready to fly just waiting for this southern WX to get better. I will say this; the James cowl will work with the cold air of BPA, with no intake mods to the cowl. I made my own airbox using a monster cone K-&-N filter. It has taken more than 20 hrs. of fab work, but it just fits between the cowl, and I am able to put the cowl on and off by myself. Once I fly it and confirm its performance I would be happy to post some pics for those interested. Right now the bird is all cowled up and ready to fly, after 3.5 years of building. I am Jonesing bad right now. Anyway just my 2 cents. My whole goal was to let that big motor get lots of cool air and still not have to cut up that nice cowl intake. Thane States #40337 Ready to fly!! > The only difference in the 2 systems that Robin > mentions is how the intake pipes mount to the plenum > chamber. On Deems and a few others (Michael), the > intake pipes connect with a 72711 o-ring. With the > revision A plenum, we have swedged a 1-5/8 pipe to > the plenum and secure the intake pipe with a hose > and 2 clamps. This makes for a better connection and > gives a small increase in HP. However, it does not > change the location of the plenum or the servo. > > > > Allen Barrett > > BPE, Inc. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Robin Marks > Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard > IO-540 > > > > Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson! > > > > Michael it would be great if life were that > simple... For those that don't know I have: > > > > . BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction > > . James Plenum Installed > > . James Cowl Installed > > > > . Airworthiness certificate in hand > > . First flight ~2 weeks > > > > Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing > builder) before & during OSH this year and there is > NO good news. There is absolutely no way that Rod's > unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold > Induction. The space between the standard "Smile" > air inlet and the injector body is just too short. > The angles are all wrong and the spun canister > conflicts in a major way with components on the > underside of the engine and the lower cowl. A major > modification to the James cowl much like Deems did > would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" > air inlet shape unaltered. > > > > Also of note there are a couple of different Forward > Facing Cold Air Induction systems available from > BPE. I happen to have the latest design which is > different from Deems. Additionally there are > different Injector Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known > as the Model 300 while Deems has the Model 200 which > is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know > about the different Cold Induction systems or the > different size Injector Body units. His response was > "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional > note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. > They have been waiting for a customer to develop a > system and then send them a copy to use as a basis > for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky > business model if you require your customers to be > responsible for your R&D. > > > > The largest challenge with the James cowl > installation is the air box. We believe we have come > up with a solution that is simple and straight > forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't > have photos (yet) of the transition from the > Injector body to the Air Filter but I should have > them soon. Attached are photos of the forward > portion of the air box / filter mounted to the cowl > very close to the air inlet. The angle of the filter > allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the > portion of the air box attached to the injector > body. Note that the injector body is less than 3" > away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit > there is no way it would come close to fitting in > this space. > > > > General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good > write up on general fit however we seemed to have > different issues when fitting our cowl. There was > absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as > is. We could get the front & right to fit but not > the left. Or the left & front to fit but not the > right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. > When all else fails pull out the saw! We split the > lower cowl on the centerline of the cowl starting > from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg slot) and > ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large > split allowed us to easily fit all sides and give > the cowl enough "relief" to attach w/o any tension. > 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that > was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl > fit perfectly. (Cowl Filter 3.jpg shows the lower > cowl split patch) > > > > I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the > any combination mentioned. > > > > Robin > > RV-4 Sold > > RV-6A 440 Hours > > RV-10 Soon > > RV-8A Purchased partially built > > > > (Michael Sausen)" > > > > One thing I would throw in there for the > non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems > have fairly extensive experience with glass given > they both previously have built glass aircraft. > Either cowl will require some modifications. The > good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett > cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold > taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl > and the induction so you can get a molded part to > minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: > > > > http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html > > > > Michael > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Composites for RV-10
Date: Aug 27, 2008
AirCrafters will be holding another workshop for composites on RV-10s on the weekend of November 18 and 19, 2008. The class will concentrate on RV-10s but is also applicable to other RVs and as an intro to other composite kitplanes. This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 18 & 19, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 10. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com **************************************************************************** **************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Subject: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
Ken Krueger, from Van's, and I tested our RV-10 with the three-blade composite prop against Van's RV-10 N410RV with the metal two-blade prop. We flew both airplanes at 8,000' density altitude, 2500RPM, full throttle, 50F ROP for a total of about 75 miles out and back. Our best estimate is that the three-blade prop is 7 kts slower than the blended airfoil metal p rop. Ideally, we should test the two-blade blended airfoil prop on our RV-10 and use that as the comparison. This would eliminate the variables involved whe n using two separate planes. Keep in mind that our RV-10 is still unpainted a nd needs some cleanup on the fairings. After we both landed, Ken flew our RV-10 and was very impressed with how smooth the prop was. Ken's direct quote was, "it is dramatically smoother t han N410RV, and it makes no difference if you run 2300, 2400 or 2500 RPM, it i s always extremely smooth". Even if it turns out to truly be 7 kts slower, there=99s no way I wou ld give up the smoothness for a little more speed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your trave l deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Gary, I'll take a pair. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: gary To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 10:39 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Composites for RV-10
I can recommend this highly. Especially if the Cabin top and most of the other glass parts are in front of you. As Gary said, composites are pretty forgiving and you can cobble your way through it pretty easily. I've been doing it for years. However, it's nice going into the work with a high confidence level, some model-specific tips, and basic skills taught by some pros. Bill Watson Dave Saylor wrote: > AirCrafters will be holding another workshop for composites on RV-10s > on the weekend of November 18 and 19, 2008. The class will > concentrate on RV-10s but is also applicable to other RVs and as an > intro to other composite kitplanes. > > This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and > techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct > materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, > spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve > hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. > Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to > view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. > > Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many > interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're > interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. > > Who: > > Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical > Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many > years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his > day working with composites. > > I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, > and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other > composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from > San Jose State. > > When: > > November 18 & 19, 2008 > > 8AM-4PM Saturday > > 8AM-3PM Sunday > > Where: > > AirCrafters LLC > > Watsonville Airport (KWVI) > > 140 Aviation Way > > Watsonville, CA 95076 > > 831-722-9141 > > _www.AirCraftersLLC.com_ > > Class size is limited to 15 builders > > Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. > Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required > before November 10. Balance due before class starts. > > Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. > > Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the > airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft > parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with > logistics. > > Many thanks for your interest, > > Dave Saylor > > 831-750-0284 CL > > _www.AirCraftersLLC.com_ <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> > > ******************************************************************************************************** > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Gary, I'll take a pair too. Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0996#200996 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Put me down for a pair. Cal Hoffman 97 Myrick Street Barnwell, SC 29812 40119 Fiberglas & Inst. Panel ----- Original Message ----- From: gary To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:39 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2008
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
-Maybe van needs to balance the prop? Pat Thyssen --- On Wed, 8/27/08, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: From: RobHickman(at)aol.com <RobHickman(at)aol.com> Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410R V Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:23 PM Ken Krueger, from Van's, and I tested our RV-10 with the three-blade compos ite prop against Van's RV-10 N410RV with the metal two-blade prop. - We flew both airplanes at 8,000' density altitude, 2500RPM, full throttle, 50F ROP for a total of about 75 miles out and back.-- Our best estimate is that the three-blade prop is 7 kts slower than the blended airfoil meta l prop. - Ideally, we should test the two-blade blended airfoil prop on our RV-10 and use that as the comparison. This would eliminate the variables involved wh en using two separate planes. Keep in mind that our RV-10 is still unpainte d and needs some cleanup on the fairings. - After we both landed, Ken flew our RV-10 and was very impressed with how sm ooth the prop was. Ken's direct quote was, "it is dramatically smoother tha n N410RV, and it makes no difference if you run 2300,- 2400 or 2500 RPM, it is always extremely smooth". - Even if it turns out to truly be 7 kts slower, there=A2s no way I would giv e up the smoothness for a little more speed. - - Rob Hickman N402RH- RV-10 It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Could I have your address please? Gary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:48 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables Gary, I'll take a pair. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: gary <mailto:speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 10:39 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Please send me your address and I will ship off the labels when they are done. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 4:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Tank lables Gary, I'll take a pair too. Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0996#200996 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
I was told that Van's RV-10 has had the prop balanced. Everyone that has flown with me in the RV-10 has been amazed with how smooth it is and it has not been balanced, it might even get better. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2008
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: It's Official!
Gary, -I was wondering if you have been able to down load the new soft ware 4.0 .1 version? I got an e-mail from Dexter and he said it was up and so I've been trying t o get it but it still down loads 3.1.8 version. Try it and let me know if y ou do any good. Thanks -Patrick Thyssen N15PT --- On Fri, 5/2/08, gary wrote: From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: It's Official! Date: Friday, May 2, 2008, 7:25 PM Congratulations. Let me know when you fly. - -I flew mine up to MN.- I still have OP stuff to work out with Stein bu t now I am in his back yard. - Gary - From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 2:38 PM Subject: RV10-List: It's Official! - Just finished up with the DAR and #40105 is now N442PM in every respect!- No squawks found during the inspection, just have to put everything back t ogether=85- First flight will wait until weather conditions locally impro ve a bit. - Bob - -http://www.matronics.com/contribution - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Who out there in RV-10 land is running the MT 3 blade prop. Can you post your average True airspeed at say 7500 or 8500 and what power setting are you using. This would be a nice data point to compare also. John G. Cumins #40864 Vstab done working on rudder _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 2:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV Maybe van needs to balance the prop? Pat Thyssen --- On Wed, 8/27/08, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: From: RobHickman(at)aol.com <RobHickman(at)aol.com> Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:23 PM Ken Krueger, from Van's, and I tested our RV-10 with the three-blade composite prop against Van's RV-10 N410RV with the metal two-blade prop. We flew both airplanes at 8,000' density altitude, 2500RPM, full throttle, 50F ROP for a total of about 75 miles out and back. Our best estimate is that the three-blade prop is 7 kts slower than the blended airfoil metal prop. Ideally, we should test the two-blade blended airfoil prop on our RV-10 and use that as the comparison. This would eliminate the variables involved when using two separate planes. Keep in mind that our RV-10 is still unpainted and needs some cleanup on the fairings. After we both landed, Ken flew our RV-10 and was very impressed with how smooth the prop was. Ken's direct quote was, "it is dramatically smoother than N410RV, and it makes no difference if you run 2300, 2400 or 2500 RPM, it is always extremely smooth". Even if it turns out to truly be 7 kts slower, there?s no way I would give up the smoothness for a little more speed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 _____ It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047> here. get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Lables
Gary, I'll also take a pair.- Where can we send the money? Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, CA- 95742 --- On Wed, 8/27/08, gary wrote: From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 10:39 AM - I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out.- How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08.- Let me know and I will order what we need. - Gary Specketer 40274 Flying - -=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16
Date: Aug 27, 2008
OK, let's make that November 15 and 16, which should really be a Saturday and Sunday. Just to be complete: This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 15 & 16, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 7. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com **************************************************************************** **************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Sparling" <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Builder Available!
Date: Aug 27, 2008
If you are looking for someone to complete your project, I will be available in September. Please take a look at my blog and give me a call to discuss your needs. All the best, Jack Sparling N5115Q 40487 210hrs. Crestwood, Kentucky Cell: (502) 262-6557 Jhs_61(at)yahoo.com N5115Q.blogspot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RV-10 HQ Article
Date: Aug 27, 2008
All, I wrote an article about the RV-10 HQ for our chapter newsletter. If you were at one of the dinners, you may see you photo. Thanks to Deems, Tim, Scott, and Andrea for the photos. Here's a link to the article: http://eaa9.org/Members/Newsletters/2008/E9NL08Sep.pdf Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 27, 2008
I have a James cowl and plenum with an Air flow FI and Std air box from Van's. The fit of the cowl and plenum were pretty good but not alot of overlap to play with. I had to make some mods for the FI control arms. I used the Std intake ring and cooling rings Sam supplied, and used baffle material for the seals. I used Alex's finned grills on the sides of the bottom cowl for more cooling down here in FL. I also used Sam's main wheel pants and Van's nose wheel pant. All in all I am pleased with the results. I have only made one long trip so far, but I was truing out about 175 kts. at 8500' @ 22 squared, 14 gph on a warm day at gross wt. I was running rich of peak and #6 was my hottest cylinder @ 390 f and oil temp 210 f. I have about 50 hrs on the airframe. E-mail me off line for any more questions and when I get more Perf data I will post it. Blue Skys Barry Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IO-540; What Is Normal Oil Pressure?
From: "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 27, 2008
I searched and could not find a thread discussing normal oil Pressure for the mighty 0-540 or IO-540. I just adjusted my pressure up a tad. I now have readings of Take off (oil temps 100F) 105 PSI, 75PSI cruise, 24 PSI Hot engine idle @ 650 RPM. I am a tad concerned about the idle PSI. What are your readings? Thanks in advance. Go Huskers! :-) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1057#201057 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
Date: Aug 27, 2008
A few years ago there was the Vic Vans and Randy vans comparo..around the same altitude. I attached the sheet Pascal From: John Cumins Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 3:17 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV Who out there in RV-10 land is running the MT 3 blade prop. Can you post your average True airspeed at say 7500 or 8500 and what power setting are you using. This would be a nice data point to compare also. John G. Cumins #40864 Vstab done working on rudder ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 2:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV Maybe van needs to balance the prop? Pat Thyssen --- On Wed, 8/27/08, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: From: RobHickman(at)aol.com <RobHickman(at)aol.com> Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:23 PM Ken Krueger, from Van's, and I tested our RV-10 with the three-blade composite prop against Van's RV-10 N410RV with the metal two-blade prop. We flew both airplanes at 8,000' density altitude, 2500RPM, full throttle, 50F ROP for a total of about 75 miles out and back. Our best estimate is that the three-blade prop is 7 kts slower than the blended airfoil metal prop. Ideally, we should test the two-blade blended airfoil prop on our RV-10 and use that as the comparison. This would eliminate the variables involved when using two separate planes. Keep in mind that our RV-10 is still unpainted and needs some cleanup on the fairings. After we both landed, Ken flew our RV-10 and was very impressed with how smooth the prop was. Ken's direct quote was, "it is dramatically smoother than N410RV, and it makes no difference if you run 2300, 2400 or 2500 RPM, it is always extremely smooth". Even if it turns out to truly be 7 kts slower, there=A2s no way I would give up the smoothness for a little more speed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=nofollow>ht tp://forums.matronics.comblank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: It's Official!
Date: Aug 27, 2008
I cannot get it to download into my units. I talked with Dexter and he says they will check it out and get back to me. It is very frustrating. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: It's Official! Gary, I was wondering if you have been able to down load the new soft ware 4.0.1 version? I got an e-mail from Dexter and he said it was up and so I've been trying to get it but it still down loads 3.1.8 version. Try it and let me know if you do any good. Thanks Patrick Thyssen N15PT --- On Fri, 5/2/08, gary wrote: From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: It's Official! Date: Friday, May 2, 2008, 7:25 PM Congratulations. Let me know when you fly. I flew mine up to MN. I still have OP stuff to work out with Stein but now I am in his back yard. Gary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 2:38 PM Subject: RV10-List: It's Official! Just finished up with the DAR and #40105 is now N442PM in every respect! No squawks found during the inspection, just have to put everything back together. First flight will wait until weather conditions locally improve a bit. Bob http://www.matronics.com/contribution get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-10 HQ Article
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Nice job Bob, Gary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 7:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 HQ Article All, I wrote an article about the RV-10 HQ for our chapter newsletter. If you were at one of the dinners, you may see you photo. Thanks to Deems, Tim, Scott, and Andrea for the photos. Here's a link to the article: http://eaa9.org/Members/Newsletters/2008/E9NL08Sep.pdf Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Tank Lables
Date: Aug 27, 2008
WE are headed back to Georgia on Sept 3 so if you will send $12 to me there we will be square. I do not have a delivery date yet, after Friday I will place the order and hope to have it in a week after that. Gary Specketer 3030 Orchard Rd SW Conyers GA 30094 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:28 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables Gary, I'll also take a pair. Where can we send the money? Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 --- On Wed, 8/27/08, gary wrote: From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 10:39 AM I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Seat Belt support Bracket
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on how I installed mine, just give me a call. Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 #40636 Almost ready to pour fuel to it! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aluminum Door Handles
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 27, 2008
Recently, I was approached by an RV-10 builder about making aluminum inside door handles for an RV-10. Van's provides a handle made from square tubing that is functional, but not aesthetic. I would like to try making a set of handles and market them. I need to see, first hand, a set of handles. Is there anyone out there that would be interested in these handles? Here is my proposal. I need the factory handles to design my handles, including the locking mechanism. The first to send me there handles will get their new ones free. Any takers? Dave Nellis 7A slider right wing in process -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1098#201098 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Seat Belt support Bracket
Date: Aug 28, 2008
I would like one of the brackets, please. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on how I installed mine, just give me a call. Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 #40636 Almost ready to pour fuel to it! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV
Date: Aug 28, 2008
I recently flew up through Alaska with another RV10 friend of mine, Ron Grover, and he has the 2 blade blended foil prop and I have a 3 blade Aero Composite prop. We didn't do any direct speed comparisons during this long trip but it appeared obvious to me that he had a little more speed than I did in cruise. His plane is a little lighter than mine I think to begin with and on this trip we I was loaded heaver than him. Based on this trip and a couple other flights Ron and I have done together I would make a SWAG (scientific wild ass guess) that my plane with the three bladed Aero Composite is around 5 knots slower in cruise than Ron's. I like the smoothness and the looks of the 3 blade so I guess my answer his "what the hey" :>} Not very scientific but my best observation. Wayne Edgerton N602WT From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Subject: Hartzell Composite three blade test against Van's N410RV Ken Krueger, from Van's, and I tested our RV-10 with the three-blade composite prop against Van's RV-10 N410RV with the metal two-blade prop. We flew both airplanes at 8,000' density altitude, 2500RPM, full throttle, 50F ROP for a total of about 75 miles out and back. Our best estimate is that the three-blade prop is 7 kts slower than the blended airfoil metal prop. Ideally, we should test the two-blade blended airfoil prop on our RV-10 and use that as the comparison. This would eliminate the variables involved when using two separate planes. Keep in mind that our RV-10 is still unpainted and needs some cleanup on the fairings. After we both landed, Ken flew our RV-10 and was very impressed with how smooth the prop was. Ken's direct quote was, "it is dramatically smoother t han N410RV, and it makes no difference if you run 2300, 2400 or 2500 RPM, it i s always extremely smooth". Even if it turns out to truly be 7 kts slower, there=99s no way I wou ld give up the smoothness for a little more speed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 HQ Article
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Great article Bob! Bob N442PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Gary, Ill join in for a pair of labels. Ill mail a check for $12 to your Georgia address this weekend. Thanks in advance, Tom Hanaway 1029 Fosters Mill Road Boynton Beach, FL 33436 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1171#201171 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: APRS System
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 28, 2008
brenthumphreys wrote: > Due to an Amazon error on my part, I have an extra book if anyone is > interested. > Brent Humphreys > -- Brent, PM sent -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1172#201172 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Subject: Composites for RV-10
Date: Aug 28, 2008
I would love to go to the work shop, but was wondering how long in advance I should do it. I am just now riveting the bottom skins on the mid fuselage and I don't see getting to the cabin top until some time in the winter of 2009-2010. I don't want to forget what I've learned. Rob Hunter 40432 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 2:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Composites for RV-10 I can recommend this highly. Especially if the Cabin top and most of the other glass parts are in front of you. As Gary said, composites are pretty forgiving and you can cobble your way through it pretty easily. I've been doing it for years. However, it's nice going into the work with a high confidence level, some model-specific tips, and basic skills taught by some pros. Bill Watson Dave Saylor wrote: AirCrafters will be holding another workshop for composites on RV-10s on the weekend of November 18 and 19, 2008. The class will concentrate on RV-10s but is also applicable to other RVs and as an intro to other composite kitplanes. This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 18 & 19, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 10. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com ************************************************************************ ******************************** href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Columbia, SC
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: "Brent P. Humphreys" <bhumphreys(at)stonetek.com>
I am going to be in Columbia, SC Sep. 3-11 if anyone is interested in flying, or help with their project I may have some time in the evenings and over the weekend. -- Brent Humphreys Stone Technologies O: 417-255-0422 M: 314-477-3400 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Composites for RV-10
Date: Aug 28, 2008
We'll be holding this course about twice a year. You'll have a couple opportunities next year too. Dave _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Hunter Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 6:30 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Composites for RV-10 I would love to go to the work shop, but was wondering how long in advance I should do it. I am just now riveting the bottom skins on the mid fuselage and I don't see getting to the cabin top until some time in the winter of 2009-2010. I don't want to forget what I've learned. Rob Hunter 40432 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 2:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Composites for RV-10 I can recommend this highly. Especially if the Cabin top and most of the other glass parts are in front of you. As Gary said, composites are pretty forgiving and you can cobble your way through it pretty easily. I've been doing it for years. However, it's nice going into the work with a high confidence level, some model-specific tips, and basic skills taught by some pros. Bill Watson Dave Saylor wrote: AirCrafters will be holding another workshop for composites on RV-10s on the weekend of November 18 and 19, 2008. The class will concentrate on RV-10s but is also applicable to other RVs and as an intro to other composite kitplanes. This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 18 & 19, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 10. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com **************************************************************************** **************************** href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Annuciator Lights
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Hi As I layout my panel I am wondering about what is the best choice for annuciator lights. I see Stein has some nice LEDS (http://www.steinair.com/lights.htm) that will do the job. Has anyone found a similar light that will display red/yellow/green on the same light? My Gretz heated pitot has a small board with three LEDS that I would like to combine into a single light. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 HQ Article
Nice job Bob... can't argue with the picture selection. Bill Watson & Alicia Ortiz Bob Leffler wrote: > > All, > > > > I wrote an article about the RV-10 HQ for our chapter newsletter. If > you were at one of the dinners, you may see you photo. Thanks to > Deems, Tim, Scott, and Andrea for the photos. Here's a link to the > article: http://eaa9.org/Members/Newsletters/2008/E9NL08Sep.pdf > > > > Bob > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Hi Tim.
Hi-Tim, just wanted to say a quick hi from-Switzerland.- We are havin g a great time here-and the motorcycling is off the charts incredible.- -I might as well-just sell my bike and come-here once a year to ride. - We have the best flying though in the US by far. =0AGood to hear-Ed -had-his first flight and made it down-OK.--I bet that was a litt le stressful.- =0AI will-email-you later.- It is hard to-type on their-keyboards here.- They-switch the z and y.- =0ASay hi to the g irls from RaNae and I.- =0A-Scott Schmidt=0ACell 801-718-1277=0Ascottms chmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Tim Olso n =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:50:40 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: N929EH Flies!=0A=0A--> RV10-List mes sage posted by: Tim Olson =0A=0ANews from Saturday.....fell ow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden=0Adid his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Sat urday=0Aa.m.!- He's got a great looking plane, as you can=0Asee here:=0A =0Ahttp://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg=0A=0AHe's got the Flightlin e AC system installed, which is=0Aone of the things that is unique about hi s plane.=0AHe reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled=0Areal well...and he was very pleased with the performance.=0A=0AThe first flight, however, did not go uneventfully,=0Aand here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare=0Ayourself...=0A=0AEd has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag=0Aon the other, just like I and many other have.- I n this=0Acase, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing=0Ahe had go ing for him.- As I understand it (sorry that=0Ait's 2nd hand) he got to 1 000' on takeoff and the plane=0Astarted missing real bad....making lots of noise.- He=0Aradioed the tower of his problems and immediate need=0Ato re turn to land.- He ran it on the lightspeed only (which=0Aonly gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and=0Asaid he had a beautiful landing.=0A =0AUpon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was=0Areadily determin ed that this was indeed a slick mag=0Afailure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know=0Aof TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on =0Atheir first flight.=0A=0ASo be aware any time you're flying in these cur rent times=0Awith Slick mags having known problems, and if you get=0Astrang e missing, perhaps try running on R or L instead=0Aof Both.- It will most likely run much better than having=0Athat failed mag sparking at the wrong times.=0A=0ANow if they could only get their parts issues figured=0Aout at Unison and do an industry wide recall and=0Aexchange of these mags, or at least provide free=0Arebuild kits to all owners, it would be a very good=0A thing indeed.- Thank goodness as experimental builders=0Awe have the elec tronic ignition options we do have...its=0Abecoming one of our great benefi =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Hi Tim.
Hi Scott, tell me where you are this weekend and I will prove, that flying in Switzerland can compete with flying in the US :-) <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfeUZgk5rnk> You might know, the PC-12 and PC-6 are made in Switzerland, I would regard the PC-12 as the RV-10 in the certified world (ok a bit uprated RV-10) <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFzP9CRFdWw&feature=related> Sorry, couldn't resist on that. Werner Scott Schmidt wrote: > Hi Tim, just wanted to say a quick hi from Switzerland. We are having > a great time here and the motorcycling is off the charts > incredible. I might as well just sell my bike and come here once a > year to ride. We have the best flying though in the US by far. > > Good to hear Ed had his first flight and made it down OK. I bet that > was a little stressful. > I will email you later. It is hard to type on their keyboards here. > They switch the z and y. > Say hi to the girls from RaNae and I. > > Scott Schmidt > Cell 801-718-1277 > scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:50:40 PM > Subject: RV10-List: N929EH Flies! > > > > > News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden > did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday > a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can > see here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg > > He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which is > one of the things that is unique about his plane. > He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled > real well...and he was very pleased with the performance. > > The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully, > and here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare > yourself... > > Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag > on the other, just like I and many other have. In this > case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing > he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that > it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and the plane > started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He > radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need > to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only (which > only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and > said he had a beautiful landing. > > Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was > readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag > failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know > of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on > their first > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Subject: Re: IO-540; What Is Normal Oil Pressure?
My oil pressure numbers are almost the same as yours in my RV-10, I get 32 psi at 640 RPM hot. I was told that the Lycomming minimum spec is 25 psi @ 650 RPM I was instructed to remove the adjustor, spring, and ball and inspect the ball seat in the case. Then I am supposed to put the ball back onto the seat and using a brass punch and hammer tap the ball to make sure there is not a burr on it and it fits into the seat. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Handles
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Dave, I may be interested and could send my handles. I've not touched them yet. Haven't started the doors either. Let me know if you still need a taker. Sean Blair #40225 -------------- Original message -------------- From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> > > Recently, I was approached by an RV-10 builder about making aluminum inside door > handles for an RV-10. Van's provides a handle made from square tubing that is > functional, but not aesthetic. I would like to try making a set of handles and > market them. I need to see, first hand, a set of handles. Is there anyone out > there that would be interested in these handles? Here is my proposal. I need the > factory handles to design my handles, including the locking mechanism. The first > to send me there handles will get their new ones free. Any takers? > > Dave Nellis > 7A slider right wing in process > > -------- > David Nellis > 7A Slider > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1098#201098 > > > > > > > > > >
Dave,

I may be interested and could send my handles. I've not touched them yet. Haven't started the doors either.

Let me know if you still need a taker.

Sean Blair

#40225

> --> RV10-List message posted by: "truflite"
>
> Recently, I was approached by an RV-10 builder about making aluminum inside door
> handles for an RV-10. Van's provides a handle made from square tubing that is
> functional, but not aesthetic. I would like to try making a set of handles and
> market them. I need to see, first hand, a set of handles. Is there anyone out
> there that would be interested in these handles? Here is my proposal. I need the
> factory handles to design my handles, including the locking mechanism. The first
> to send me there handles will get their new ones free. Any takers?
>
> Dave Nellis
> 7A slider right wing in process
>
> ----- ---
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Handles
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Thank you for the offer. Unfortunately, I have a taker on the first set. I will keep you in mind when I have a product ready. Thanks, Dave -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1300#201300 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt support Bracket
I will take one also. Checks in the mail Dave Bowman 1713 Sandcroft St. Westlake, Village, CA 91361 805-778-0744 #40831 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:05 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket > > I would like one of the brackets, please. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > -----Original Message----- > Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I > will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to > make > money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had > promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already > spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on > how > I installed mine, just give me a call. > Don McDonald > 11460 Elks Circle > Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 > 916-801-8402 > #40636 > Almost ready to pour fuel to it! > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > Read this topic online here: > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 > Attachments: > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Lables
Gary, I will take a set also. I will put a check in the mail. Dave Bowman 1713 Sandcroft Street Westlake Village, CA 91361 805-778-0744 #40831 ----- Original Message ----- From: gary To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 7:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables WE are headed back to Georgia on Sept 3 so if you will send $12 to me there we will be square. I do not have a delivery date yet, after Friday I will place the order and hope to have it in a week after that. Gary Specketer 3030 Orchard Rd SW Conyers GA 30094 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 5:28 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables Gary, I'll also take a pair. Where can we send the money? Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 --- On Wed, 8/27/08, gary wrote: From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Lables To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 10:39 AM I got more request for labels than I had, however they are easy to get and if others want some I will get them made and send them out. How about if we put a deadline of this Friday 8/29/08. Let me know and I will order what we need. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Handles
Date: Aug 28, 2008
keep us updated on your progress with pictures. Thanks! -------------------------------------------------- From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 9:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum Door Handles > > Recently, I was approached by an RV-10 builder about making aluminum > inside door handles for an RV-10. Van's provides a handle made from square > tubing that is functional, but not aesthetic. I would like to try making a > set of handles and market them. I need to see, first hand, a set of > handles. Is there anyone out there that would be interested in these > handles? Here is my proposal. I need the factory handles to design my > handles, including the locking mechanism. The first to send me there > handles will get their new ones free. Any takers? > > Dave Nellis > 7A slider right wing in process > > -------- > David Nellis > 7A Slider > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1098#201098 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2008
From: William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Seat Belt support Bracket
I would also like one of the brackets,check is in the mail. Bill Souza, RV-10 N410RG Flying Fox Field, Lancaster, CA. SoCal RV Group --- Albert Gardner wrote: > > > I would like one of the brackets, please. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > -----Original Message----- > Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and > ready to install. I > will finish installing mine on Friday. They look > great. Not trying to make > money here, just taking advantage of my brothers > equipment and I had > promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off > 20, and 8 are already > spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and > shipping. Any questions on how > I installed mine, just give me a call. > Don McDonald > 11460 Elks Circle > Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 > 916-801-8402 > #40636 > Almost ready to pour fuel to it! > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > Read this topic online here: > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 > Attachments: > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg > > > > > > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > Forums! > > Admin. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Electroair ignition
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Does anyone have experience with Electroair ignitions? Compared to Lightspeed? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI Canopy trimming ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO-540; What Is Normal Oil Pressure?
From: "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 28, 2008
Thanks Rob, I appreciate it. I'll try setting the ball again. I pulled it out just to look at it, and it looked fine. I would like to see a tad bit higher oil pressure when idling hot, but may have to live with 24 PSI. I'm probably worrying about nothing, but that would be normal. :? Thanks again, Larry Geiger Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1380#201380 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Handles
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Pictures will be forthcoming. I hope to have something in about 2-3 weeks. Have to wait for the factory handles to get here and start design and manufacture the prototype. Stay tuned. Dave -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1384#201384 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Gary, My check went out yesterday afternoon also. Thanks, Gary -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1393#201393 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat Belt support Bracket
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Check went out in yesterdays mail. Thanks, Gary -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1394#201394 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Boost Pump - On or Off for Takeoff?
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Aug 29, 2008
A few days ago the conversation around our hangar was about the use of the electric fuel pump. I reviewed the POHs that were available on Tim's site and still didn't find a clear answer. So to my question, is the electric fuel pump supposed to be on or off during takeoff? The answer to this question even appears to vary in the certified world, some Pipers have it on for takeoff, some Beechcraft have it off. The follow up question of course would be, why, or why not? Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hi Tim.
Sorry about that all, stupid me forgot to change the To: section. And Werner you are right I was mainly concerned with fuel prices. Can you fly IFR in Switzerland with an Experimental? This country is beautiful. Scott Schmidt Cell 801-718-1277 scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com --- On Thu, 8/28/08, Werner Schneider wrote: > From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hi Tim. > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 1:40 PM > > > Hi Scott, > > tell me where you are this weekend and I will prove, that > flying in > Switzerland can compete with flying in the US :-) > > <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfeUZgk5rnk> > > You might know, the PC-12 and PC-6 are made in Switzerland, > I would > regard the PC-12 as the RV-10 in the certified world (ok a > bit uprated > RV-10) > > <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFzP9CRFdWw&feature=related> > > Sorry, couldn't resist on that. > > Werner > > Scott Schmidt wrote: > > Hi Tim, just wanted to say a quick hi from > Switzerland. We are having > > a great time here and the motorcycling is off the > charts > > incredible. I might as well just sell my bike and > come here once a > > year to ride. We have the best flying though in the > US by far. > > > > Good to hear Ed had his first flight and made it down > OK. I bet that > > was a little stressful. > > I will email you later. It is hard to type on their > keyboards here. > > They switch the z and y. > > Say hi to the girls from RaNae and I. > > > > Scott Schmidt > > Cell 801-718-1277 > > scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com > > > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > > From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:50:40 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: N929EH Flies! > > > > > > > > > News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden > > did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday > > a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can > > see here: > > > > http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg > > > > He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which > is > > one of the things that is unique about his plane. > > He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and > handled > > real well...and he was very pleased with the > performance. > > > > The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully, > > and here is where y'all should listen closely and > prepare > > yourself... > > > > Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick > mag > > on the other, just like I and many other have. In > this > > case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing > > he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that > > it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and > the plane > > started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He > > radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need > > to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only > (which > > only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and > > said he had a beautiful landing. > > > > Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it > was > > readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag > > failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I > now know > > of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail > on > > their first > > * > > > > > > * > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Not to rain on anyone's parade but fuel tank labels are usually provide at no charge by the paint shops. They do it in quantity for the aircraft that they paint. Also if they are on the plane when sent to the paint shop they will be removed and replaced after the paint. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 4:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Tank lables Gary, My check went out yesterday afternoon also. Thanks, Gary -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1393#201393 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hi Tim.
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Hey Scott, if you are close to Zuerich let me contact me would be great to meet up with you. Call +41 78 7905454. I am building my -10 in Zuerich. Best Michael www.wellenzohn.net -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1404#201404 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Boost Pump - On or Off for Takeoff?
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Here is my opinion...everyone has one. For fuel injected (IO-540) engines, the fuel pump should be on for takeoffs and landings as a precaution against the mechanical fuel pump failing. It is my understanding that on some engine types, you should NOT use the electric fuel pump because it can cause the engine to flood. I have the pump on for takeoffs and landing. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 6:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Boost Pump - On or Off for Takeoff? A few days ago the conversation around our hangar was about the use of the electric fuel pump. I reviewed the POHs that were available on Tim's site and still didn't find a clear answer. So to my question, is the electric fuel pump supposed to be on or off during takeoff? The answer to this question even appears to vary in the certified world, some Pipers have it on for takeoff, some Beechcraft have it off. The follow up question of course would be, why, or why not? Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Boost Pump - On or Off for Takeoff?
Look to aircraft with the same engine and fuel injection and low wings for your answer. Bonanzas have TCM engines with either a Bendix pressure carb or TCM fuel injection, with entirely different requirements than the plane your engine came out of, a Comanche 260. With the RV10, I'd say have it on. The RSA system(or equivalent) isn't sensitive to small variations in fuel pressure, and if the mechanical pump were to fail at 50 ft, you would have a much less eventful flight if you discovered it at 1000 ft when you turned the boost pump off than if the fire went out at 50 ft. On 8/29/08, jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote: > > A few days ago the conversation around our hangar was about the use of the > electric fuel pump. I reviewed the POHs that were available on Tim's site > and still didn't find a clear answer. So to my question, is the electric > fuel pump supposed to be on or off during takeoff? The answer to this > question even appears to vary in the certified world, some Pipers have it on > for takeoff, some Beechcraft have it off. > > The follow up question of course would be, why, or why not? > > Thanks, Jason Kreidler > 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) > Sheboygan Falls, WI > #40617 Finishing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Dial your RPM down, You'll do much better. On Aug 25, 2008, at 9:03 PM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > I have the MT govenor, speed test is scheduled for this week. > > Jennifer and I flew it to Seattle on Sunday and we got the > following speeds: > > 8500 FT > 2450 RPM > Full Throttle > 169-171 KTS True Airspeed > > Rob Hickman > N402RH RV-10 > > > It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal > here. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank lables
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote: > Not to rain on anyone's parade but fuel tank labels are usually provide at > no charge by the paint shops. They do it in quantity for the aircraft that > they paint. Also if they are on the plane when sent to the paint shop they > will be removed and replaced after the paint. > > -- True, but I will probably fly for several months before I paint. Would like something a little better then a Sharpie for this time period. [Mr. Green] -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1427#201427 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:11:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes: Dial your RPM down, You'll do much better. I am flying to eastern Washington later today to drop off my neighbors at Moses Lake so I will give different RPM settings a try. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 29, 2008
I have been told the IO54 has the most torque around 2200 RPM. I don't remember the source. I have tested different RPMs and I get the best speed around 2250. It kinda adds up, lower RPM has less drag. Rob. On Aug 29, 2008, at 11:21 AM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:11:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, flysrv10(at)gmail.com > writes: > Dial your RPM down, You'll do much better. > I am flying to eastern Washington later today to drop off my > neighbors at Moses Lake so I will give different RPM settings a try. > > Rob Hickman > N402RH RV-10 > > > It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal > here. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vegas crash
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
-------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1462#201462 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt support Bracket
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Put me on the list for the bracket. Check in the mail on 8/29. Cal Hoffman 97 Myrick Street Barnwell, SC 29812 40119 Fiberglas and Instruments ----- Original Message ----- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 11:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket > > Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I > will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to > make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had > promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already > spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on > how I installed mine, just give me a call. > > Don McDonald > 11460 Elks Circle > Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 > > 916-801-8402 > > #40636 > Almost ready to pour fuel to it! > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Avemco Insurance Quote
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 hours of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT, 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not bad for 6 years of flying (I thought). I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I hope to hear back from multiple insurance companies. I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should be closer to $3,000. I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier. Robin BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! Ready to fly... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance Quote
Give Jenny Estes A call at NATIONAIR AVIATION INSURANCE @ 877-475-5860 OR NATIONAIR.COM. I have my RV-10 insured for full coverage @ $225,000 hull and under $4800.00 yr. Bill Souza RV-10 SoCal RV Group --- Robin Marks wrote: > > > I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about > insuring my -10 for > first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have > 4 other plans > insured with them and receive a multi-plane > discount. Unfortunately > their quote is not reality based as coverage begins > only after 10 hours > of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K > hull coverage the > quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the > plane will be in a > hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft > (Panel), I have 800 TT, > 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 > Tail Wheel. Not bad > for 6 years of flying (I thought). > I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by > Wayne E and I hope to > hear back from multiple insurance companies. > I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the > insurance should be > closer to $3,000. > I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 > additional aircraft from > Avemco and move them over to the new insurance > carrier. > > Robin > BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! > Ready to fly... > > > > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > Forums! > > Admin. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: brake linings
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Just a follow up. I got my sets today and they are the Cleveland 66-11200 This is the real deal as these same linings are priced at about $70 for a set for the mains versus Vans price of $33 rivets included. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Avemco Insurance Quote
Date: Aug 29, 2008
I have a great independent agent who shops all the major carriers and the price is great. Contact me off line if you want his name. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 1:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Avemco Insurance Quote I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 hours of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT, 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not bad for 6 years of flying (I thought). I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I hope to hear back from multiple insurance companies. I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should be closer to $3,000. I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier. Robin BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! Ready to fly... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: baggage door lock length
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Anyone know how long the arm is for the baggage door lock. Have a 5/8th lock need to create the arm. Thanks Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another?
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Canopy is on (not yet riveted) and I'm satisfied with fit. Does it make more sense to go forward with doors and windows now or should I fill pinholes (with canopy either on or off fuselage) and do initial prime of canopy before moving forward? Just trying to figure out best order of steps to follow. Thanks, Tom H. Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1508#201508 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance Quote
I found insurance to be very unrealistic. I have my 10 covered through Nation Air. The underwriter is AIG with 180K hull and with the TAA discount I paid almost $2900. I am a corporate pilot on a Citation, go to Simuflite every year, have over 24,000 hrs in over 50 types and I feel ripped. I did get first flight coverage. I had done the checkout with m\Mike Seagers. We get the shaft regardless. Good luck. Doug Preston RV10 N372RV KBHM On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 1:51 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for > first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans > insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately > their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 hours > of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the > quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a > hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT, > 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not bad > for 6 years of flying (I thought). > I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I hope to > hear back from multiple insurance companies. > I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should be > closer to $3,000. > I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from > Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier. > > Robin > BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! > Ready to fly... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another?
Tom, I completely body worked the interior and primed it prior to installing. I'm using a faux suede paint (stuff used on yachts in the bridge interiors) that was use on my panel and console to paint the interior once I get the filling completed around the point where it mates to the fuselage. I have done nothing to the exterior and won't until close to paint time. Do as much to the interior as you can stand before sticking it on for good. Mike Sausen is installing his headliner while it's off, leaving the part of the headliner rolled up that go to the rivet line. If I was doing a headliner I would do the exact same thing. If you have an upholster in mind now is a good time to contact them for a first look at the headliner unless you going to do it yourself. I really did a lot of body work to the interior of my cabin top...smoothed all the window areas, the posts, blended the area behind the doors that look like big ol square chunks of garbage. I also have the overhead console and the green top...you pink top owners may have less to do. I can say that at several times in the process I said I had enough, but I came back and did more and glad I did, Mine would take a headliner very nicely now due to the faring and rounding of the protrusions but I'm sticking with my suede paint...at $100 a quart, which I already purchased, I'm sticking to that plan!! Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 3:44:57 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another? Canopy is on (not yet riveted) and I'm satisfied with fit. Does it make more sense to go forward with doors and windows now or should I fill pinholes (with canopy either on or off fuselage) and do initial prime of canopy before moving forward? Just trying to figure out best order of steps to follow. Thanks, Tom H. Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1508#201508 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Shoulder harness bracket
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Ok, the install is finished and it works and looks great. Based on the response I guess I need to run some more. Attached is a pic. Rick Sked asked about using them as a headset holder.... I have a different bracket design already done and mounted in the plane. Will take a pic and send it out tomorrow. Don McDonald #40636 -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1524#201524 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_119.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket
Like I said Don, nice piece, now onto the headset holder...My checks in the mail for both. It saved me from the mechanics for both parts, actually I had it drawn out, and ready to fab...yours is perfect and an almost perfect finished surface from the tumbler :) I don't know why I love to polish metal!! Rick Sked 40185 d0 not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 5:24:26 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder harness bracket Ok, the install is finished and it works and looks great. Based on the response I guess I need to run some more. Attached is a pic. Rick Sked asked about using them as a headset holder.... I have a different bracket design already done and mounted in the plane. Will take a pic and send it out tomorrow. Don McDonald #40636 -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1524#201524 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_119.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Got PPL
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
I started building my rv-10 about 18 months ago because I really liked the idea of the project. Over the years (I'm currently 61 and working full time), I took some flying lessons but never as far as license. It always bothered me that I'd left this unfinished. So... passed my practical a few weeks ago and have the PPL ticket to learn. Now putting in some x-country hours while taking my initial intrument lessons. After building some time and experience, I'll do my transition training (probably another 18 months or so). What a neat feeling of accomplishment. Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1526#201526 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another?
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Hey Rick, what's the name of the paint you're using? -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1530#201530 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another?
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
Hey Rick, what's the name of the paint you're using? -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1531#201531 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Rob, thanks for your continual reporting. John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 8:22 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade In a message dated 8/29/2008 7:11:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, flysrv10(at)gmail.com writes: Dial your RPM down, You'll do much better. I am flying to eastern Washington later today to drop off my neighbors at Moses Lake so I will give different RPM settings a try. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ________________________________ It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047> . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another?
Andrew, It's made by Mankiewicz and imported through the NEXTEL brand Heres the link : http://www.gatewaycoatingsandsupply.com/nextelsuedecoating.html Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 6:02:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: filling canopy pinholes-better time than another? Hey Rick, what's the name of the paint you're using? -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1530#201530 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: baggage door lock length
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2008
It's 1 5/8 from the bolt center to the tip of the arm. Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1541#201541 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance Quote
Date: Aug 30, 2008
Hello, My wife owned a Grumman Tiger for 25 years and was given a good quote for an RV10 when we were about to build one. They have very good rates, shopping around for the best ones. My wife Ruth has about 3000 hrs in Grummans ( and 110 hrs in a Cirrus SR20) but stiill got a good approximate quote when we checked. Try calling Aircraft Marine and Assurnace Inc in Vancouver Washington. Ask for Vivian Hibbler. With your hours one would think you would get a much better rate than that. Phone number is: 800-466-4944 E-mail is mail(at)aircraftandmarine.com Brian Preston -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Doug Preston" <dougpflyrv(at)gmail.com> I found insurance to be very unrealistic. I have my 10 covered through Nation Air. The underwriter is AIG with 180K hull and with the TAA discount I paid almost $2900. I am a corporate pilot on a Citation, go to Simuflite every year, have over 24,000 hrs in over 50 types and I feel ripped. I did get first flight coverage. I had done the checkout with m\Mike Seagers. We get the shaft regardless. Good luck. Doug Preston RV10 N372RV KBHM On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 1:51 PM, Robin Marks wrote: I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 hours of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT, 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not bad for 6 years of flying (I thought). I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I hope to hear back from multiple insurance companies. I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should be closer to $3,000. I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier. Robin BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! Ready to fly...
Hello,

My wife owned a Grumman Tiger for 25 years and was given a good quote for an RV10 when we were about to build one. They have very good rates, shopping around for the best ones. My wife Ruth has about 3000 hrs in Grummans ( and 110 hrs in a Cirrus SR20) but stiill got a good approximate quote when we checked.

Try calling Aircraft Marine and Assurnace Inc in Vancouver Washington. Ask for Vivian Hibbler. With your hours one would think you would get a much better rate than that.

Phone number is: 800-466-4944

E-mail is mail(at)aircraftandmarine.com

Brian Preston

I found insurance to be very unrealistic. I have my 10 covered through Nation Air. The underwriter is AIG with 180K hull and with the TAA discount I paid almost $2900. I am a corporate pilot on a Citation, go to Simuflite every year, have over 24,000 hrs in over 50 types and I feel ripped. I did get first flight coverage. I had done the checkout with m\Mike Seagers. We get the shaft regardless. Good luck.
Doug Preston
RV10 N372RV
KBHM

On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 1:51 PM, Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> wrote:

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>

I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for
first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans
insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately
their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 hours
of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the
quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a
hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT,
500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not bad
for 6 years of flying (I thought).
I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I hope to
hear back from multiple insurance compa nies.< BR>I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should be
closer to $3,000.
I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from
Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier.

Robin
BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete!
Ready to fly...

________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vegas crash
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vegas crash
Date: Aug 29, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
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From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance Quote
Date: Aug 30, 2008
Try Falcon, I did not have a 10 fly-off time and the I pay $2300. I have a bit more time than you do. On Aug 29, 2008, at 2:51 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > I just got off the phone with Avemco to see about insuring my -10 for > first flight and then basic flight coverage. I have 4 other plans > insured with them and receive a multi-plane discount. Unfortunately > their quote is not reality based as coverage begins only after 10 > hours > of fly off (no First Flight Coverage) and for $200K hull coverage the > quote was close to $8,000. I informed them that the plane will be in a > hangar, it is a Technically Advanced Aircraft (Panel), I have 800 TT, > 500 of which are Retract, High Performance plus 125 Tail Wheel. Not > bad > for 6 years of flying (I thought). > I now have filled out the EAA form as suggested by Wayne E and I > hope to > hear back from multiple insurance companies. > I read the archives (Really!) and it seems like the insurance should > be > closer to $3,000. > I am looking forward to the day I cancel 4 additional aircraft from > Avemco and move them over to the new insurance carrier. > > Robin > BPE Cold Induction / James Cowl Air box Complete! > Ready to fly... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Visiting Bend Oregon
Date: Aug 30, 2008
My wife and I will be visiting Bend Oregon next Monday and Tuesday. Would love to link up with any of you 10ers in the area. Send me a direct email. John Testement Richmond, VA 40321 N311RV Still waiting for the paint to dry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: tire pressure
Date: Aug 30, 2008
what tire pressures are being used? any recommended pressure in the plans? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: FW: tire pressure
Date: Aug 30, 2008
_____ From: David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net] Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:12 AM Subject: tire pressure what tire pressures are being used? any recommended pressure in the plans? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: tire pressure
Date: Aug 30, 2008
I believe the plans call for 40psi on the nose and 42psi on the mains. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Aug 30, 2008, at 1:11 PM, David McNeill wrote: > what tire pressures are being used? any recommended pressure in the > plans? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: aircraft extras fuel guardian
Date: Aug 30, 2008
I have for sale the two sensor system Fuel Guardian from Aircraft Extras http://www.aircraftextras.com/FuelSensor1.htm I purchased the kit new in Feb 2007 but decided not to install it. I thought I'd offer it up here before listing elsewhere. I paid $197 shipped but will sell it for $150 freight included (to the lower 48). Ben Westfall Portland, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 30, 2008
Rick Sked gave a call about the bracket and mentioned that he was going to try and use it for a headset holder. I told him I had made up a different bracket for those. So anyway, those of you that might want both brackets, or one or the other, just let me know. Pictures attached. I am going to modify the bracket slightly.... the ears will be cut back to 3/4", and the step down will be increased from 3/4" to 7/8". Cost..... $12 for either one, $20 for both. Sound fair? Don McDonald #40636 916-801-8402 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1670#201670 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2637c_582.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2636c_160.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2634c_128.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2633c_704.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Phase I finished--yipee
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Aug 30, 2008
Just Finished the 40 hour phase one.!!!! N104LG flies great. Temps are great, even in long climbs in hot Florida. Good speeds--173 Kts at 8500 75%. Handles very well. Likes to float on landing-I probably need to be a little slower. Lots of great people to thank for a super plane--especially my co-builder-my bestest buddy for past 39+ years. She's now ready to learn how to push all the buttons on the electronics. Dual AFS are great--just need to learn how to use them well myself. Easy to read, tremendous info, and great support from the company as I was learning and trouble shooting. Great trutrak autopilot. Great plane. Now if Hurricane Gustav will go away I can fly home. Larry & Gayle Blumberg N104LG -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1712#201712 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 30, 2008
Today N321BY flew for the first time out of 28A, Goose creek. 3.5 years of work lots of sweat and a little blood, and is was a near perfect flight. My air box worked very well and I will try to take some pics on my next cowl removal. I cant say enough about how smooth and powerful the BPA engine is. I am very pleased with how it flew today. As said many time by others, build on and you to will soon enjoy this wonderful airplane. Regards, Thane States #40337; finally in the air!! > I also have the BPA cold air and James cowl. I am ready to fly just > waiting for this southern WX to get better. I will say this; the James > cowl will work with the cold air of BPA, with no intake mods to the cowl. > I made my own airbox using a monster cone K-&-N filter. It has taken more > than 20 hrs. of fab work, but it just fits between the cowl, and I am able > to put the cowl on and off by myself. > Once I fly it and confirm its performance I would be happy to post some > pics for those interested. > Right now the bird is all cowled up and ready to fly, after 3.5 years of > building. I am Jonesing bad right now. > Anyway just my 2 cents. My whole goal was to let that big motor get lots > of cool air and still not have to cut up that nice cowl intake. > > Thane States > #40337 Ready to fly!! > >> The only difference in the 2 systems that Robin >> mentions is how the intake pipes mount to the plenum >> chamber. On Deems and a few others (Michael), the >> intake pipes connect with a 72711 o-ring. With the >> revision A plenum, we have swedged a 1-5/8 pipe to >> the plenum and secure the intake pipe with a hose >> and 2 clamps. This makes for a better connection and >> gives a small increase in HP. However, it does not >> change the location of the plenum or the servo. >> >> >> >> Allen Barrett >> >> BPE, Inc. >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >> Behalf Of Robin Marks >> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:50 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard >> IO-540 >> >> >> >> Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson! >> >> >> >> Michael it would be great if life were that >> simple... For those that don't know I have: >> >> >> >> . BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction >> >> . James Plenum Installed >> >> . James Cowl Installed >> >> >> >> . Airworthiness certificate in hand >> >> . First flight ~2 weeks >> >> >> >> Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing >> builder) before & during OSH this year and there is >> NO good news. There is absolutely no way that Rod's >> unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold >> Induction. The space between the standard "Smile" >> air inlet and the injector body is just too short. >> The angles are all wrong and the spun canister >> conflicts in a major way with components on the >> underside of the engine and the lower cowl. A major >> modification to the James cowl much like Deems did >> would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" >> air inlet shape unaltered. >> >> >> >> Also of note there are a couple of different Forward >> Facing Cold Air Induction systems available from >> BPE. I happen to have the latest design which is >> different from Deems. Additionally there are >> different Injector Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known >> as the Model 300 while Deems has the Model 200 which >> is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know >> about the different Cold Induction systems or the >> different size Injector Body units. His response was >> "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional >> note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. >> They have been waiting for a customer to develop a >> system and then send them a copy to use as a basis >> for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky >> business model if you require your customers to be >> responsible for your R&D. >> >> >> >> The largest challenge with the James cowl >> installation is the air box. We believe we have come >> up with a solution that is simple and straight >> forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't >> have photos (yet) of the transition from the >> Injector body to the Air Filter but I should have >> them soon. Attached are photos of the forward >> portion of the air box / filter mounted to the cowl >> very close to the air inlet. The angle of the filter >> allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the >> portion of the air box attached to the injector >> body. Note that the injector body is less than 3" >> away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit >> there is no way it would come close to fitting in >> this space. >> >> >> >> General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good >> write up on general fit however we seemed to have >> different issues when fitting our cowl. There was >> absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as >> is. We could get the front & right to fit but not >> the left. Or the left & front to fit but not the >> right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. >> When all else fails pull out the saw! We split the >> lower cowl on the centerline of the cowl starting >> from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg slot) and >> ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large >> split allowed us to easily fit all sides and give >> the cowl enough "relief" to attach w/o any tension. >> 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that >> was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl >> fit perfectly. (Cowl Filter 3.jpg shows the lower >> cowl split patch) >> >> >> >> I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the >> any combination mentioned. >> >> >> >> Robin >> >> RV-4 Sold >> >> RV-6A 440 Hours >> >> RV-10 Soon >> >> RV-8A Purchased partially built >> >> >> >> (Michael Sausen)" >> >> >> >> One thing I would throw in there for the >> non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems >> have fairly extensive experience with glass given >> they both previously have built glass aircraft. >> Either cowl will require some modifications. The >> good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett >> cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold >> taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl >> and the induction so you can get a molded part to >> minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: >> >> >> >> http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html >> >> >> >> Michael >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 30, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I have never heard a negative on the decision by any builder to use BPA. They are a class act. I am interested pictures of both your airbox and cowl decisions. Gary Foster was going to be the first with BPA and James but I have never heard a word. My impression is that most builders went with Aerosport and the stock Green or Pink Vans creations. Congrats. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 6:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540 Today N321BY flew for the first time out of 28A, Goose creek. 3.5 years of work lots of sweat and a little blood, and is was a near perfect flight. My air box worked very well and I will try to take some pics on my next cowl removal. I cant say enough about how smooth and powerful the BPA engine is. I am very pleased with how it flew today. As said many time by others, build on and you to will soon enjoy this wonderful airplane. Regards, Thane States #40337; finally in the air!! > I also have the BPA cold air and James cowl. I am ready to fly just > waiting for this southern WX to get better. I will say this; the James > cowl will work with the cold air of BPA, with no intake mods to the cowl. > I made my own airbox using a monster cone K-&-N filter. It has taken more > than 20 hrs. of fab work, but it just fits between the cowl, and I am able > to put the cowl on and off by myself. > Once I fly it and confirm its performance I would be happy to post some > pics for those interested. > Right now the bird is all cowled up and ready to fly, after 3.5 years of > building. I am Jonesing bad right now. > Anyway just my 2 cents. My whole goal was to let that big motor get lots > of cool air and still not have to cut up that nice cowl intake. > > Thane States > #40337 Ready to fly!! > >> The only difference in the 2 systems that Robin >> mentions is how the intake pipes mount to the plenum >> chamber. On Deems and a few others (Michael), the >> intake pipes connect with a 72711 o-ring. With the >> revision A plenum, we have swedged a 1-5/8 pipe to >> the plenum and secure the intake pipe with a hose >> and 2 clamps. This makes for a better connection and >> gives a small increase in HP. However, it does not >> change the location of the plenum or the servo. >> >> >> >> Allen Barrett >> >> BPE, Inc. >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >> Behalf Of Robin Marks >> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:50 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard >> IO-540 >> >> >> >> Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson! >> >> >> >> Michael it would be great if life were that >> simple... For those that don't know I have: >> >> >> >> . BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction >> >> . James Plenum Installed >> >> . James Cowl Installed >> >> >> >> . Airworthiness certificate in hand >> >> . First flight ~2 weeks >> >> >> >> Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing >> builder) before & during OSH this year and there is >> NO good news. There is absolutely no way that Rod's >> unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold >> Induction. The space between the standard "Smile" >> air inlet and the injector body is just too short. >> The angles are all wrong and the spun canister >> conflicts in a major way with components on the >> underside of the engine and the lower cowl. A major >> modification to the James cowl much like Deems did >> would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" >> air inlet shape unaltered. >> >> >> >> Also of note there are a couple of different Forward >> Facing Cold Air Induction systems available from >> BPE. I happen to have the latest design which is >> different from Deems. Additionally there are >> different Injector Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known >> as the Model 300 while Deems has the Model 200 which >> is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know >> about the different Cold Induction systems or the >> different size Injector Body units. His response was >> "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional >> note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. >> They have been waiting for a customer to develop a >> system and then send them a copy to use as a basis >> for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky >> business model if you require your customers to be >> responsible for your R&D. >> >> >> >> The largest challenge with the James cowl >> installation is the air box. We believe we have come >> up with a solution that is simple and straight >> forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't >> have photos (yet) of the transition from the >> Injector body to the Air Filter but I should have >> them soon. Attached are photos of the forward >> portion of the air box / filter mounted to the cowl >> very close to the air inlet. The angle of the filter >> allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the >> portion of the air box attached to the injector >> body. Note that the injector body is less than 3" >> away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit >> there is no way it would come close to fitting in >> this space. >> >> >> >> General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good >> write up on general fit however we seemed to have >> different issues when fitting our cowl. There was >> absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as >> is. We could get the front & right to fit but not >> the left. Or the left & front to fit but not the >> right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. >> When all else fails pull out the saw! We split the >> lower cowl on the centerline of the cowl starting >> from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg slot) and >> ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large >> split allowed us to easily fit all sides and give >> the cowl enough "relief" to attach w/o any tension. >> 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that >> was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl >> fit perfectly. (Cowl Filter 3.jpg shows the lower >> cowl split patch) >> >> >> >> I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the >> any combination mentioned. >> >> >> >> Robin >> >> RV-4 Sold >> >> RV-6A 440 Hours >> >> RV-10 Soon >> >> RV-8A Purchased partially built >> >> >> >> (Michael Sausen)" >> >> >> >> One thing I would throw in there for the >> non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary and Deems >> have fairly extensive experience with glass given >> they both previously have built glass aircraft. >> Either cowl will require some modifications. The >> good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett >> cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold >> taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl >> and the induction so you can get a molded part to >> minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link: >> >> >> >> http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html >> >> >> >> Michael >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: neil <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Hi Guys Just done a couple of quick tests this morning. By way of background we have the IO540 from BPA dynoed at 282hp. A wonderfully smooth combination. MT 3 blade prop. James cowl with plenum. The plenum needed a fair bit of work. The cold air induction & filter was definitely time consuming & not straight forward. But we have a K & N filter, the same as Gary's, and a top flap for alternate air. A pair of working mags. 1/2 fuel, 2 adults, 3 children+ clutter. Full throttle. 8500ft, 7410 DA 155 KIAS 172 TAS 22.7MAP 2340 RPM 2 runs, both cross wind, averages. PS - we fly off a grass 550m strip most of the time, with absolutely no probs, except when very wet. The landing lights need to be a pair, brighter, and centre mounted (somehow) - maybe on the cowl under the air intake? PPS - it was very dark when we landed late last week under heavy overcast & rain. Neil ZK-RVT On 31 Aug 2008, at 13:45, John Cox wrote: > > I have never heard a negative on the decision by any builder to use > BPA. > They are a class act. I am interested pictures of both your airbox > and > cowl decisions. Gary Foster was going to be the first with BPA and > James but I have never heard a word. My impression is that most > builders went with Aerosport and the stock Green or Pink Vans > creations. > > Congrats. > > John Cox > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Infinity grip
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Can anyone let me know how much to leave on the stick after trimming for an Infinity Grip? I'll be using the throttle quadrant and stock Van's panel/subpanel. Thanks, Sean Blair #40225
Can anyone let me know how much to leave on the stick after trimming for an Infinity Grip? I'll be using the throttle quadrant and stock Van's panel/subpanel.

Thanks,

Sean Blair

#40225

________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vegas crash
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Enough with superchargers, turbochargers, super wham-o-dyne conversions, and other wierd things to make more Hp. I'm going nuclear. I figure to get about 280 Hp I will need a 700 kW reactor. It will have the added benefit of zero carbon emmissions and little noise so the environmentalists will love me. Only 1 problem to overcome: weight and balance will be tricky due to shielding. May use up all my useful load. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB building fuselage Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1771#201771 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Sound more than fair. My check is in the mail for both! -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB building fuselage Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1773#201773 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read
From: "dherring10" <dherring10(at)suddenlink.net>
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Don, Sounds fair to me, I am mailing my $20 check. Thanks, Dwayne Herring #40506 Midland, TX Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1788#201788 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2008
From: "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read
Sounds very fair to me. I already mailed a check for the shoulder harness bracket so I will send another check for the headset bracket. Dave Bowman #40831 ----- Original Message ----- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read > > Rick Sked gave a call about the bracket and mentioned that he was going to > try and use it for a headset holder. I told him I had made up a different > bracket for those. So anyway, those of you that might want both brackets, > or one or the other, just let me know. Pictures attached. > I am going to modify the bracket slightly.... the ears will be cut back to > 3/4", and the step down will be increased from 3/4" to 7/8". > Cost..... $12 for either one, $20 for both. Sound fair? > Don McDonald > #40636 > 916-801-8402 > 11460 Elks Circle > Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1670#201670 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2637c_582.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2636c_160.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2634c_128.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2633c_704.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Hi Don, I'd like a set if you still have them. Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: partner14<mailto:building_partner(at)yahoo.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Shoulder harness bracket - A Must Read > Rick Sked gave a call about the bracket and mentioned that he was going to try and use it for a headset holder. I told him I had made up a different bracket for those. So anyway, those of you that might want both brackets, or one or the other, just let me know. Pictures attached. I am going to modify the bracket slightly.... the ears will be cut back to 3/4", and the step down will be increased from 3/4" to 7/8". Cost..... $12 for either one, $20 for both. Sound fair? Don McDonald #40636 916-801-8402 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1670#201670 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2637c_582.jpg ics.com//files/img_2637c_582.jpg> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2636c_160.jpg ics.com//files/img_2636c_160.jpg> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2634c_128.jpg ics.com//files/img_2634c_128.jpg> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2633c_704.jpg ics.com//files/img_2633c_704.jpg> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Infinity grip
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Tim, What did you use to connect the 17 wires - a 21 pin D-sub, or did you use something else? -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB building fuselage Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1805#201805 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Infinity grip
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 31, 2008
nukeflyboy wrote: > Tim, > What did you use to connect the 17 wires - a 21 pin D-sub, or did you use something else? I am using an AMP 17-16 Mouser # 571-2060361 & 571-2060371 -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1829#201829 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2008
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity grip
Just my info. in my case.( I have an RV6A) I did use for the Intercom and if I re call theElevator? Any how I use the parts that came with the units,,the female and male, pin unit, one had 21 for the pins the other I think was 12 or something like that. I used as per instructions 22 Gauge teflon wires, and solder each pin to it...not an easy task, but with patience and care, can be done. In my case turned out to be OK.. same with the P to T. wires from stick to the controls.... bert rv6a --- On Sun, 8/31/08, nukeflyboy wrote: > From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Infinity grip > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 11:47 AM > > > Tim, > What did you use to connect the 17 wires - a 21 pin D-sub, > or did you use something else? > > -------- > Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB building fuselage > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1805#201805 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Visiting Bend Oregon
Date: Aug 31, 2008
John, Recommend you go to RDD in Redmond and ask for a view of their 10. It has some really cool upgrades and is being fitting with some neat things. I haven't seen them posted here so I don't want to jump the gun on a product announcement, but since you're here you might check out their plane and we would always be willing to show off some of our ac components. John Strain Flightline AC, Inc. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 6:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Visiting Bend Oregon My wife and I will be visiting Bend Oregon next Monday and Tuesday. Would love to link up with any of you 10ers in the area. Send me a direct email. John Testement Richmond, VA 40321 N311RV Still waiting for the paint to dry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Hi I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! Anyway, the question he couldn't answer definitively was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? By the way - I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won't help matters.. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
I have HID lights from www.planelights.com in the tips and the archer NAV antenna in the right tip; I have not experience any interference. no wig wag though. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Hi I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! Anyway, the question he couldn't answer definitively was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? By the way - I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won't help matters.. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
HI Dave Thanks for the info. Perhaps all is not liost. I took a look at the Plane Lights site and the setup seems similar to the LoPresti systems. How did you run the wires across the antenna and where did you place the ballast in particular? Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: August-31-08 4:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas I have HID lights from www.planelights.com in the tips and the archer NAV antenna in the right tip; I have not experience any interference. no wig wag though. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Hi I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! Anyway, the question he couldn't answer definitively was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? By the way - I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won't help matters.. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2008
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Les,=0AI'm contemplating the same situation. My current plan is to change t he location of the LoPresti lights from the wingtip to the leading edge of the wing. This will solve the 2 problems I'm facing. 1. LED NAV light place ment and 2. Bob Archer antenna placement. The LoPresti recommended instruc tions restricts &/or limits placement of the Luxeon Stars that I bought las t year. Relocation to the LE frees up the wingtip.=0A=0AInstallation looks simple according to Tim's instructions. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/d uckworksHIDS/index.html=0A=0AParts are available from Duckworks: http://www .duckworksav.com/InstallKits.html=0A =0A=0Ajohn=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:15:04 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Bob Arche r Antennas=0A=0A =0AHi=0A =0AI just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob A rcher regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful!=0A =0AAnyway, the question he couldn=92t answer definiti vely was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his ant enna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-e xist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? =0A =0ABy the way ' I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won=92t help matter s=85.=0A =0AInquiring minds need to know=85..=0A =0ALes Kearney=0A =0A#4064 =========================0A ============== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
IIRC Archer has a method to run the wires, you can see where I mounted the ballast by checking the site for the install photos as that is my aircraft pictured. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas HI Dave Thanks for the info. Perhaps all is not liost. I took a look at the Plane Lights site and the setup seems similar to the LoPresti systems. How did you run the wires across the antenna and where did you place the ballast in particular? Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: August-31-08 4:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas I have HID lights from www.planelights.com in the tips and the archer NAV antenna in the right tip; I have not experience any interference. no wig wag though. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Hi I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! Anyway, the question he couldn't answer definitively was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? By the way - I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won't help matters.. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Aug 31, 2008
I'm in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I've run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome. The area that I'm having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone. The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can't get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance.. Since there have been many going before me and I can't seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious. I tried using a chisel, but the results weren't good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn't able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together. I'm open to any suggestions at this point. Thanks! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2008
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: And now for the COM antennas
Hi Again I was looking at COM antennas on the ACS site and saw this antenna: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/av/antenna_composite.html Does anyone have any experience with the Advanced Aircraft Electronices High Gain Antenna Systems antenna? It would seem that mounting on the aft canopy would be a great location if it works as advertised. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Bob; I'm thinking your referencing 16-3 step 3. I looked at my end result (which tells me if I had a problem or not at this point) I see everything except the outermost rivet are riveted, which leads me to know that I used a squeezer at this point. I think I filed down my 3'' so it would fit than squeezed. Send me a picture if I have the wrong spot and we'll get this worked out. Pascal From: Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins I'm in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I've run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome. The area that I'm having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone. The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can't get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance.. Since there have been many going before me and I can't seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious. I tried using a chisel, but the results weren't good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn't able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together. I'm open to any suggestions at this point. Thanks! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Hi John I had thought about that as well and then decided I didn't want to mod the leading edge of the wing. The leading edge mod looks interesting though and Tim's website certainly makes it seem doable. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hurst Sent: August-31-08 6:01 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Les, I'm contemplating the same situation. My current plan is to change the location of the LoPresti lights from the wingtip to the leading edge of the wing. This will solve the 2 problems I'm facing. 1. LED NAV light placement and 2. Bob Archer antenna placement. The LoPresti recommended instructions restricts &/or limits placement of the Luxeon Stars that I bought last year. Relocation to the LE frees up the wingtip. Installation looks simple according to Tim's instructions. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/duckworksHIDS/index.html Parts are available from Duckworks: http://www.duckworksav.com/InstallKits.html john ----- Original Message ---- From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:15:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Hi I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! Anyway, the question he couldn't answer definitively was about possible interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? By the way - I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won't help matters.. Inquiring minds need to know... Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Bob Acher's installation instruction has the wires running AROUND THE FRONT of the wingtip antenna (Adel clamps provided.).=C2- This is supposedly imp roves the operation=C2-of the antenna. Running any wires ACROSS the=C2-antenna destroys the operation of the ante nna. The wingtip NAV antenna should mount as far forward in the wingtip as possib le. Regards, Jim Ayers RV-3 sn 50=C2-- Bob Archer wingtip=C2-antennas used for the last 20 year s, -----Original Message----- From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 4:40 pm Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas HI Dave =C2- Thanks for the info. Perhaps all is not liost. =C2- I took a look at the Plane Lights site and the setup seems similar to the Lo Presti systems. How did you run the wires across the antenna and where did y ou place the ballast in particular? =C2- Cheers =C2- Les =C2- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: August-31-08 4:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas =C2- I have HID lights from www.planelights.com in the tips and the archer NAV an tenna in the right tip; I have not experience any interference. no wig wag t hough. =C2- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas Hi =C2- =0 AI just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very helpful! =C2- Anyway, the question he couldn=99t answer definitively was about possi ble interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co-exist or am I going to h ave to forgo the Archer antenna? =C2- By the way =93 I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won =99t help matters. =C2- Inquiring minds need to know.. =C2- Les Kearney =C2- #40643 =93 some assembly required =C2- =C2- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List -==============3 D======================== ===================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! -= --> http://forums.matronics.com -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: And now for the COM antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
They should work just fine as they look to be just a basic dipole antennas that you can make for $5 or so in parts. The term "high gain" in interesting as by definition these are omni antennas (radiate in all directions) - as such they have no gain over a standard reference dipole. For an antenna to have gain it must radiate in one or more directions better than others. This is not a good characteristic for aircraft antennas. For mounting keep in mind that by convention communication antennas are vertically polarized and navigation antenna are horizontally polarized. Glassing in a dipole antenna in the top of the canopy would work well for a VOR antenna. For this application I recommend you run the legs parallel to the wings to avoid nulls off the nose and tail. Better yet would be to mount it in a 'V' shape were the angle is greater than 90 degrees. This will help to eliminate all nulls. For a communication antenna you will need to mount the dipole as vertical as possible to be most effective. I've seen these type of antennas mounted in the horizontal stabilizer on Lancairs and the reports are they work well for communications. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 9:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: And now for the COM antennas Hi Again I was looking at COM antennas on the ACS site and saw this antenna: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/av/antenna_composite.html Does anyone have any experience with the Advanced Aircraft Electronices High Gain Antenna Systems antenna? It would seem that mounting on the aft canopy would be a great location if it works as advertised. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antennas
Date: Aug 31, 2008
Jim When I spoke to Bob he explained that the wires were part of the antenna. That is why they MUST follow the angle of the antenna, otherwise they cause interferance. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 31-Aug-08, at 9:06 PM, lessdragprod(at)aol.com wrote: > Bob Acher's installation instruction has the wires running AROUND > THE FRONT of the wingtip antenna (Adel clamps provided.). This is > supposedly improves the operation of the antenna. > > Running any wires ACROSS the antenna destroys the operation of the > antenna. > > The wingtip NAV antenna should mount as far forward in the wingtip > as possible. > > Regards, > Jim Ayers > RV-3 sn 50 - Bob Archer wingtip antennas used for the last 20 years, > > -----Original Message----- > From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 4:40 pm > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas > > HI Dave > > Thanks for the info. Perhaps all is not liost. > > I took a look at the Plane Lights site and the setup seems similar > to the LoPresti systems. How did you run the wires across the > antenna and where did you place the ballast in particular? > > Cheers > > Les > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of David McNeill > Sent: August-31-08 4:58 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas > > I have HID lights from www.planelights.com in the tips and the > archer NAV antenna in the right tip; I have not experience any > interference. no wig wag though. > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Les Kearney > Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:15 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Bob Archer Antennas > Hi > > I just spent a few minutes chatting with Bob Archer regarding > placement of his NAV antenna in -10 wingtips. I must say he was very > helpful! > > Anyway, the question he couldn=99t answer definitively was about possi > ble interference between HID landing lights and his antenna. I have > a set of LoPresti HID landing lights that I plan to install as well > as an Archer Nav antenna. Has anyone found a way to get these to co- > exist or am I going to have to forgo the Archer antenna? > > By the way =93 I plan to have a wig wag capability which I am sure won > =99t help matters. > > Inquiring minds need to know.. > > Les Kearney > > #40643 =93 some assembly required > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ad, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ://forums.matronics.com > lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Get the MapQuest Toolbar. Directions, Traffic, Gas Prices & More! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Sep 01, 2008
After a little bit of head scratching, it came back to me. I used the attached bucking bar on those rivets. Eric Gohr All the things left after the finishing kit -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1955#201955 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4932_154.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Sep 01, 2008
Bob, I remember that lots of cussing helped! I used a small 1" by 1.5" steel bucking bar that I have (which hurts like hell to use btw). If you haven't already bought a tungsten bar I'd recommend shelling out for one. They are often small enough to get into tight places such as this. -Ben Westfall _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins I'm in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, but I've run into a snag that I need assistance to overcome. The area that I'm having difficulties are the rivets that go through the top wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the wing where the W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems impossible to reach. I can take a photo if that would assist anyone. The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can't get into the rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I have. I do have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into tight places, but they are still too thick in this instance.. Since there have been many going before me and I can't seem to find any references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking something obvious. I tried using a chisel, but the results weren't good. I could get the chisel into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn't able to get the head of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill out the rivets on the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the doubler. But that sure would be a pain, with the ribs so close together. I'm open to any suggestions at this point. Thanks! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2008
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Hi Perhaps the limited use of Cherry Max rivets in really tight spots would be a worthwile approach. If you are messing up rivets in difficult to reach spots, tryng something different may be in order. By the way, I agree with Ben that a tungsten bar a great idea. IMHO, it is the single best rivetting tool you can get. You'd have to pry mine from my cold dead hands.... Cheers Les Kearney #40643 ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben Westfall <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> Date: Monday, September 1, 2008 8:33 am Subject: RE: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins > Bob, > > > > I remember that lots of cussing helped! I used a small 1" > by 1.5" steel > bucking bar that I have (which hurts like hell to use > btw). If you haven't > already bought a tungsten bar I'd recommend shelling out for > one. They are > often small enough to get into tight places such as this. > > > > -Ben Westfall > > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler > Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:49 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins > > > > I'm in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, > but I've run > into a snag that I need assistance to overcome. > > > > The area that I'm having difficulties are the rivets that go > through the top > wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the > wing where the > W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems > impossible to reach. > I can take a photo if that would assist anyone. > > > > The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can't > get into the > rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I > have. I do > have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into > tight places, > but they are still too thick in this instance.. > > > > Since there have been many going before me and I can't seem to > find any > references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking > somethingobvious. > > > > I tried using a chisel, but the results weren't good. I could > get the chisel > into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn't able to > get the head > of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill > out the rivets on > the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the > doubler. But that sure > would be a pain, with the ribs so close together. > > > > I'm open to any suggestions at this point. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Sep 01, 2008
Every tool was designed to someone else's specifications-maybe you can redesign one to meet your specific requirements. My grinder has altered the design of several of my bucking bars and the pop rivet tool among others. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2008
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
With respects to the "purest" out there, I've found that; rather than trying to put a solid rivet in any hard to reach location, instead use a MK-319 BS. You will mess up less skin going this route. A while back I was about to order some MK-319BS from Van's. In addition to the $4 handling charge, MK-319 BS from Van's are $0.22 each. I was looking for some other items at Aircraft Spruce and found that they carry the MK-319 BS equivalent Cherry rivets for $0.15 each or 100 count for $13.50. A 100 count order shipped priority mail is less than #20. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/cherryqrivet.php No.: CCC-32 USM Equivalent: "MK319BS Size: 3/32 Drill: 41 Grip: .125 There are some minor visual differences between the Van's MK-319 BS and the Cherry CCC-32. The Van's MK-319 BS requires a hole larger than a #40 for placement where as the CCC-32 does not. The stem on the CCC-32 is stainless whereas the MK-319 BS is normal steel. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > Hi > > Perhaps the limited use of Cherry Max rivets in really tight spots would be a worthwile approach. If you are messing up rivets in difficult to reach spots, tryng something different may be in order. > > By the way, I agree with Ben that a tungsten bar a great idea. IMHO, it is the single best rivetting tool you can get. You'd have to pry mine from my cold dead hands.... > > Cheers > > Les Kearney > #40643 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ben Westfall <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> > Date: Monday, September 1, 2008 8:33 am > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Bob, > > > > > > > > I remember that lots of cussing helped! I used a small 1" > > by 1.5" steel > > bucking bar that I have (which hurts like hell to use > > btw). If you haven't > > already bought a tungsten bar I'd recommend shelling out for > > one. They are > > often small enough to get into tight places such as this. > > > > > > > > -Ben Westfall > > > > > > > > _____ > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler > > Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:49 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of finishing riveting the top wings skins, > > but I've run > > into a snag that I need assistance to overcome. > > > > > > > > The area that I'm having difficulties are the rivets that go > > through the top > > wing skin and the rear spar, at the inboard end of the > > wing where the > > W-1007C doubler is located. This row of rivets seems > > impossible to reach. > > I can take a photo if that would assist anyone. > > > > > > > > The problem is that because of the W-1007C doubler, you can't > > get into the > > rivet with a back rivet set or any of the bucking bars that I > > have. I do > > have a couple bucking bars that are angled to get them into > > tight places, > > but they are still too thick in this instance.. > > > > > > > > Since there have been many going before me and I can't seem to > > find any > > references to others having difficulties, I must be overlooking > > somethingobvious. > > > > > > > > I tried using a chisel, but the results weren't good. I could > > get the chisel > > into the back, but it push the rivet out and I wasn't able to > > get the head > > of the rivet flat. I guess the other choice is to drill > > out the rivets on > > the W1007C doubler, rivet the skin, the re-rivet the > > doubler. But that sure > > would be a pain, with the ribs so close together. > > > > > > > > I'm open to any suggestions at this point. > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Chelton Trutrak interface
Date: Sep 01, 2008
This morning I allowed the AP to fly the complete approach ILS 5 @ CGZ. With very minimal flaps and Vproc set to 100 it was still slightly fast at DH. I will try it again with Vproc @ 90 and 1/2 flaps. Of course during the approach I had to manage throttle and trim. Now for the "auto throttle engage", "Beta" and "anti skid arm" options. Anybody offering these yet? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airbox for BPE Cold Induction & SJ Cowl
Date: Sep 01, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
RV-10 List, I finally got around to posting photos of our Air Box solution to mate the BPE Forward Facing Cold Induction unit to the Sam James Cowl. Please note that we have yet to lay up some fiberglass inside the air box to eliminate the deep corners and smoothly guide the air into the injector body. I will post additional photos once we get the alternate air flap fitted onto the top of the air box. Part of the beauty of this design is the lower cowl and filter should simply drop away from the injector body and upper air box when the lower cowl is removed. http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/Sj_Air_Box.htm Robin RV-4 Sold RV-6A 440 Hours RV-10 Ready, Set... Oh one more thing... RV-8A Next... Updated photos of the SJ Plenum: http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/SJ%20Plenum.htm Updated photos of the SJ Cowl: http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/SjCowl.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Sep 01, 2008
Thanks to all that have replied. I attempted Pascal's suggestion with a squeezer, but that didn't work well. I'll admit it could be my skill level causing some of the issue. For those that recommend either the short or long footed bucking bars from Cleaveland, I have those, but they are too thick. Since you can't ever have too many tools, I ordered an anvil style bucking bar from Cleaveland that appears to have a thinner foot (BB83) (http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB83). If that is still too thick, I'll start grinding. As far as using MK-319 BS, I prefer not to use them in this particular location. This is the top of the wing, so I'm going to perform a little more due diligence before I give up. If this was the bottom skin, I probably wouldn't think twice. Plus I now know I am going to have the same issue when it comes to the bottom skin. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 1:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins Every tool was designed to someone else's specifications-maybe you can redesign one to meet your specific requirements. My grinder has altered the design of several of my bucking bars and the pop rivet tool among others. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AFS WX & AP software (GRT WX??)
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Sep 01, 2008
I've got the GRT XM Wx in my plane and all is working well. I don't have the dimensional info handy but can send you some pictures of my install if you want/need them (contact me offline). I've got the receiver mounted under the front right seat up against the forward side of the spar. If you go with the HX version of the GRT it uses a USB interface and talks directly to the receiver. If you go with the HS or WS versions you'll also need the processor box and it will interface using a high speed serial port. The receiver that I got is actually a WxWorx unit. Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2051#202051 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: tire pressure
David McNeill wrote: > what tire pressures are being used? any recommended pressure in the plans? Don't know. I don't use a gauge. I inflate until the outer rib on the tire picks up off the ground. I get good, even tire wear. Linn > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Chelton Trutrak interface
Date: Sep 01, 2008
From: gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Dave, I've been trying to make the VSVG on GPS (non-lpv ones) do something other than nearly 1,000 ft/min rate of descent. I've tried differeng descent angles and descent rates, but they seem to be overridden by an unseen force. Have you experienced similar problems on VSVG descents to bug set altitudes??? Maybe you're on to something on the Vproc speeds here........ Grumpy -----Original Message----- From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 3:44 pm Subject: RV10-List: Chelton Trutrak interface This morning I allowed the AP to fly the complete approach ILS 5 @ CGZ. With very minimal flaps and Vproc set to 100 it was still slightly fast at DH. I will try it again with Vproc @ 90 and 1/2 flaps. Of course during the approach I had to manage throttle and trim. Now for the "auto throttle engage", "Beta" and "anti skid arm" options. Anybody offering these yet? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins
Date: Sep 01, 2008
Bob, It gets worse on the bottom skins because you have the flap attach brackets to work around. I used a long (12" or more) back rivet set polished mirror smooth on the manufactured head of the rivet and the tungsten bar on the shop head side. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 3:37 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Need some advice on riveting RV-10 wing skins Thanks to all that have replied. I attempted Pascal's suggestion with a squeezer, but that didn't work well. I'll admit it could be my skill level causing some of the issue. For those that recommend either the short or long footed bucking bars from Cleaveland, I have those, but they are too thick. Since you can't ever have too many tools, I ordered an anvil style bucking bar from Cleaveland that appears to have a thinner foot (BB83) (http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB83). If that is still too thick, I'll start grinding. As far as using MK-319 BS, I prefer not to use them in this particular location. This is the top of the wing, so I'm going to perform a little more due diligence before I give up. If this was the bottom skin, I probably wouldn't think twice. Plus I now know I am going to have the same issue when it comes to the bottom skin. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
From: "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I apologize. http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross country flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the oil (210F+) hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the crankcase low. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
Date: Sep 02, 2008
IIRC correctly there is already a thermal switch in the oil filter /cooler that restricts oil to the cooler until an appropriate temperature is reached. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geico266 Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I apologize. http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross country flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the oil (210F+) hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the crankcase low. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Subject: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
It's the Vernatherm valve. However there can still be some benefit to blocking off the cooler. Here is a picture: http://www.sacskyranch.com/53e22144apart.jpg and an article on how it operates. http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng18.htm William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > > IIRC correctly there is already a thermal switch in the oil filter /cooler > that restricts oil to the cooler until an appropriate temperature is > reached. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geico266 > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:18 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler > > > I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I > apologize. > > http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html > > Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross > country flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the > oil (210F+) hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the > crankcase low. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
We added the gate style control to the oil cooler housing to be able to control the temp with the pull of a knob. This is common in other RV models. Photos attached. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Extra Hole
All,=0A I am pretty sure that I have seen this topic before but I could not find it in the archives. Can someone tell me what to do with the extra hole on the bottom center of the fuel tank baffle on the fuel tanks? It's centered right by the middle rib. It looks like a nut plate is supposed t o go in there but I can't find any mention of it. In fact, on the rivet ca ll outs it shows the hole but doesn't have a rivet in it. See page 18-5, f igure 3.=0A=0A Also, has anybody come up with anything better for sealin g up the tooling holes on the inboard and outboard ribs? It seems that add ing the plates called out on 18-5 step 2 adds to the possibility of leaks. Thanks in advance.=A2=BC=0A=0A --Shawn=0A40366 - Wings=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Subject: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite
I changed the oil in the RV-10 on Saturday and decided that since it now has over 75 hours on it (in 6 weeks) I would change to the same oil I have been using in the RV-4 for years; multi weight 20-50 Exxon Elite. I had been using Aero Shell 100 (50 weight) and after changing to the Exxon 20/50 oil my oil pressures increased about 10 PSI in flight and 5-10 psi at idle when hot. I am currently getting 80 psi at 185F in flight and 43 psi at 190F and 675 RPM on the ground. The oil pressure on takeoff when the oil is cold has also dropped with the new oil. I plan on adjusting the pressure back to 70-75 PSI the next time I have the top cowl off. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite
From: "Geico266" <Geico266(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I think your oil pressure numbers are right where they should be. JMHO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2165#202165 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite
Probably better to leave it alone. Cessna now uses something like 95 or 100 psi from a spot further down the line, so really closer to 115 psi at normal pickoff. Improves upper cylinder lube, rocker arms and valve stems. Unless you are having any issues with leakage, I wouldn't change your pressure setting. Kelly A&P/IA On 9/2/08, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > > > I changed the oil in the RV-10 on Saturday and decided that since it now has > over 75 hours on it (in 6 weeks) I would change to the same oil I have been > using in the RV-4 for years; multi weight 20-50 Exxon Elite. I had been > using Aero Shell 100 (50 weight) and after changing to the Exxon 20/50 oil > my oil pressures increased about 10 PSI in flight and 5-10 psi at idle when > hot. I am currently getting 80 psi at 185F in flight and 43 psi at 190F and > 675 RPM on the ground. The oil pressure on takeoff when the oil is cold has > also dropped with the new oil. > > > I plan on adjusting the pressure back to 70-75 PSI the next time I have the > top cowl off. > > > Rob Hickman > > N402RH RV-10 > > > ________________________________ > It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Seals - Again
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the instructions. I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior posts, and big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we started to rework everything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new seals to replace the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans with the question (see copy below). I received a response from Vans, also copied below. I am shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't provide a solution, but also said that this is the first they have EVER heard of this problem. Not that it will do much good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity, but has anyone else asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud to be a Van's customer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers on a solution to the problem would be appreciated. Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008 "A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied with our kit. Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to perfect as we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals, the doors fit terribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the door to insure they were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that did not help. We are now considering different options, it seems as if the bulb on the seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a common problem all builders are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve this issue? I hate to buy after market seals to replace the stock seals without asking the question." Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008 "We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes, and I haven't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll of the tech help guys this morning, and none of us have had any questions that we can remember. I'm not sure what to tell you." Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Jason Ken's reponse is troubling. A quick look at the a/c at KOSH shows that some have been better than others in fitting the doors. I just don't believe that absolutely no one has spoken to Van's about this before. I spent quite some time with one builder at KOSH who fabbed fiberglass trim pieces and his own door seal for this very reason. That being said, a little help from the Van's team would have been nice - that is what tech support is for. Hopefully some of the more experienced builders on this list can help you. I for one, would be lost without all the advice, guidance and support that this list provides. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - Some assembly required ----- Original Message ----- From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008 12:06 pm Subject: RV10-List: Door Seals - Again > Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the > instructions. > I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior > posts, and > big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we > started to rework > everything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new > seals to > replace the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans > with the > question (see copy below). I received a response from > Vans, also copied > below. I am shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't > provide a solution, > but also said that this is the first they have EVER heard of > this problem. > Not that it will do much good, other than to satisfy my > own curiosity, > but has anyone else asked Vans this question? What > gives??? I am proud > to be a Van's customer, but they can be frustrating.... > BTW, any pointers > on a solution to the problem would be appreciated. > > Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008 > "A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied > with our kit. > Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to > perfect as > we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals, > the doors fit > terribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the > door to insure > they were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that > did not > help. We are now considering different options, it seems > as if the bulb > on the seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a > common problem > all builders are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve > this issue? > I hate to buy after market seals to replace the stock seals > without asking > the question." > > Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008 > "We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes, > and I > haven't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll > of the tech > help guys this morning, and none of us have had any questions > that we can > remember. I'm not sure what to tell you." > > Thanks, Jason Kreidler > 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) > Sheboygan Falls, WI > #40617 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: phil barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Extra Hole
the rivet hole in the baffle should be matched to a rivet hole in the skin. =C2- I thought this was funny when i saw it on the left tank - i through- drilled it to make a matching on in the skin - then i got to the other side of the skin - the skin hole had one, and the baffle didn't! =C2- so, would seem like there so the baffle only installs in one direction, but all the other holes seem to line up (eg z-bracket holes) =C2- so i guess one way would be just to swivel 180 degrees, unless you've alrea dy match drilled, in which case can drill through and rivet like all the ot hers =C2- phil RV-10 (wings) KSLC --- On Tue, 9/2/08, Shawn Moon wrote: From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Extra Hole Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 10:43 AM All, =C2-=C2-=C2- I am pretty sure that I have seen this topic before but I could not find it in the archives.=C2- Can someone tell me what to do w ith the extra hole on the bottom center of the fuel tank baffle on the fuel tanks?=C2- It's centered right by the middle rib.=C2- It looks like a nut plate is supposed to go in there but I can't find any mention of it.=C2 - In fact, on the rivet call outs it shows the hole but doesn't have a ri vet in it.=C2- See page 18-5, figure 3. =C2-=C2-=C2- Also, has anybody come up with anything better for seali ng up the tooling holes on the inboard and outboard ribs?=C2- It seems th at adding the plates called out on 18-5 step 2 adds to the possibility of l eaks.=C2- Thanks in advance.=99- =C2---Shawn 40366 - Wings =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2008
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
I am working on the doors now. Before doing the last 10% of fitting on the doors, i considered what effect the door seals would have. From the plans, it seems like the door seals are installed on the door to get sandwiched between the door and the door frame flange. It seems like the door seals would cause the doors to stick proud of the cabin top, if anything. In that case, I will continue to follow the plans and get the doors to fit perfectly flush with the cabin top, even before door seals are installed. When the seals are installed, then continue to trim down the door frame flange until the door is flush with the cabin top again. Does that seem reasonable? Of course, i got the fit almost "perfect", then i installed the hinges. The hinges have enough slop or magin for error, that it seems like it's inevitable that your door will not STAY perfect once the hinges are installed. Fortunately, it looks like shimming one of the hinges should get things close to lined up again. jae #40533 - doors jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote: > > Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the > instructions. I was concerned that our door fit would change based on > prior posts, and big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before > we started to rework everything to get back to a decent fit, or before > buying new seals to replace the factory seals I decided to send an > e-mail to Vans with the question (see copy below). I received a > response from Vans, also copied below. I am shocked that Ken Scott > not only couldn't provide a solution, but also said that this is the > first they have EVER heard of this problem. Not that it will do much > good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity, but has anyone else > asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud to be a Van's > customer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers on a > solution to the problem would be appreciated. > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nav Antenna
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I am at the point of installing an "In-Wing" Nav antenna. I saw that Vans has such a Nav antenna on their web site (with no picture)- it was quite inexpensive. I ordered it and it is essentially a piece of 25" copper tape to which you solder a connection with the (included) antenna wire to the panel. Has anyone installed this device and with what level of success in receiving VOR signals. If it is ho-hum on the reception, should I try the Bob Archer unit that sells for about $88 at Spruce??? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2187#202187 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Dick at AircraftDoorseals is a good guy to deal with. I've used several of his products on my Cherokee. He answered questions quickly and did whatever it took to help folks out. I don't have experience with his door seals on a RV-10 yet, but based upon my previous experience, I would go to him again. We just need to convince Dick to trade in his Lance for a RV-10! :^) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nav Antenna
Date: Sep 03, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Hi Mike, Sounds like you are describing the Marker Beacon Antenna. It won't be much chop for VOR reception. If you are after a VOR antenna in the wing, you will nee the Bob Archer Nav antenna (or equivalent). Cheers, Ron 187 painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2008 7:14 AM Subject: RV10-List: Nav Antenna I am at the point of installing an "In-Wing" Nav antenna. I saw that Vans has such a Nav antenna on their web site (with no picture)- it was quite inexpensive. I ordered it and it is essentially a piece of 25" copper tape to which you solder a connection with the (included) antenna wire to the panel. Has anyone installed this device and with what level of success in receiving VOR signals. If it is ho-hum on the reception, should I try the Bob Archer unit that sells for about $88 at Spruce??? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2187#202187 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Date: Sep 03, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
The Vans standard door seal is glued in place rather than rivetted. My doors sat a little proud after installation of the seal. I'm with Michael S. - I did not report the condition to Vans and just worked the cabin top/door intersection to smooth the fit. Just another issue with the (less than fun) construction of the doors. I have also noticed that I have contacted Vans on build issues much less frequently during the finishing activities, deferring to the collective experience of the list. But I am surprised that Van does not recognise the weaknesses in the door design compared to the rest of the kit. Cheers Ron 187 painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2008 7:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel tank lables
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I shipped out the labels for those folks who provided me with addresses today. When I get to Georgia on Friday I will get the addresses from those who already sent checks and send out those labels. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying (except when the RNC has a TFR) We have gotten quite an air show by the military folks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Subject: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full throttle. I started at 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 RPM drop I would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
Date: Sep 03, 2008
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Thanks Rob for the update. So 2600 produced the best speed at the price of higher fuel, and the loss of speed was consistent for every 100rpm? how did this effect fuel rate? Pascal From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 4:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full throttle. I started at 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 RPM drop I would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Hey Jason, IMHO, FWIW, IIRC, YMMV, (sorry, I'm just practicing!) We eventually got a perfect fit on the doors, then used good carpet tape (really sticky on both sides) to cut and temporarily mount the seals ... and they work just fine. Our latch pins really pull in the doors so that there's not much wiggle room for the seals to effect the fit. But it does make it a bit snug so that like everyone else, you have to be sure to pull in the rear. After leaving the seals clamped tight with the door latches for a couple of days, it's still snug but not as hard to close. The seals are marked for left, right and where to position them, and set aside until after painting and final installation. With weather seal/emblem glue, I see no reason to pop rivet. Are you sure you are orienting the seal correctly to the door per instructions? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2226#202226 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Date: Sep 03, 2008
Hi Mike! Looks like you made is to Oshkosh this year after all. We saw your picture at the barbeque. Good luck on finishing your 10 soon! Brian and Ruth Preston -------------- Original message -------------- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> > > I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not > the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal > the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air > intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you > have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop > rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. > > I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door > seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com > > He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have > installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 > > > > > > > > > >
Hi Mike!

Looks like you made is to Oshkosh this year after all. We saw your picture at the barbeque. Good luck on finishing your 10 soon!

Brian and Ruth Preston

> --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike"
>
> I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not <BR>> the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal
> the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air
> intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you
> have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop
> rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door.
>
> I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door
> seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com
>
> He did give me a sample, but I did not get a Same g

________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Fan Grill
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Check these out folks. http://www.directron.com/x80.html 2 are on the way for my glareshield fans. I am pimping my ride. -Chris Lucas #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 02, 2008
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
I used both the original seals and then those sold by Alex DeDominicis and found those sold by Alex vastly superior and well worth the money.The doors close passivly yet still seal better than those supplied by vans.Just my individual experience. 728DD- ************** It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Grill
Date: Sep 02, 2008
You can find some very cool fan grills at frozencpu.com as well. David Maib 40559 On Sep 2, 2008, at 9:30 PM, Chris wrote: Check these out folks. http://www.directron.com/x80.html 2 are on the way for my glareshield fans. I am pimping my ride. -Chris Lucas #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Sep 03, 2008
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
This looks to be the same stuff that Alex sells. Not sure who is cheaper. If anyone has a quote from Aircraft Door Seals let us know. I know Alex is $68 but not sure if that is per door or for the set. Another $45 for the baggage door. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again Dick at AircraftDoorseals is a good guy to deal with. I've used several of his products on my Cherokee. He answered questions quickly and did whatever it took to help folks out. I don't have experience with his door seals on a RV-10 yet, but based upon my previous experience, I would go to him again. We just need to convince Dick to trade in his Lance for a RV-10! :^) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Date: Sep 03, 2008
That is $68 per door. I like them...... Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 7:27 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again This looks to be the same stuff that Alex sells. Not sure who is cheaper. If anyone has a quote from Aircraft Door Seals let us know. I know Alex is $68 but not sure if that is per door or for the set. Another $45 for the baggage door. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again Dick at AircraftDoorseals is a good guy to deal with. I've used several of his products on my Cherokee. He answered questions quickly and did whatever it took to help folks out. I don't have experience with his door seals on a RV-10 yet, but based upon my previous experience, I would go to him again. We just need to convince Dick to trade in his Lance for a RV-10! :^) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 03, 2008
Here's a picture of Don Orrick's door seal. -------- Regards, Lenny #40803 Fuel System... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2323#202323 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02917_195.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 03, 2008
It would be pretty useful to make a surface chart using Rob's engine data. rpm vs airspeed vs fuel flow... -------- Regards, Lenny #40803 Fuel System... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2327#202327 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Date: Sep 02, 2008
I installed mine as instructed. I could barely close the doors then from the outside. I'd probably have pulled the interior door handles off from the inside to close. Pulled the seals off and am too now looking for a suitable replacement seal. Perhaps our door tolerances are too close? Chuck Engine hung, prop installed, working on engine cowl fitment. ----- Original Message ----- From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 10:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Seals - Again Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the instructions. I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior posts, and big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we started to rework everything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new seals to replace the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans with the question (see copy below). I received a response from Vans, also copied below. I am shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't provide a solution, but also said that this is the first they have EVER heard of this problem. Not that it will do much good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity, but has anyone else asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud to be a Van's customer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers on a solution to the problem would be appreciated. Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008 "A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied with our kit. Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to perfect as we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals, the doors fit terribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the door to insure they were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that did not help. We are now considering different options, it seems as if the bulb on the seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a common problem all builders are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve this issue? I hate to buy after market seals to replace the stock seals without asking the question." Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008 "We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes, and I haven't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll of the tech help guys this morning, and none of us have had any questions that we can remember. I'm not sure what to tell you." Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2008
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
Lenny That is the one that I saw at KOSH. It was a asterful job - although David mentioned that making the fiberglass trim pieces was quite a bit of work. He had Abby of Flightline *I think* make the seals out of the same material used in the interior. Cheers Les ----- Original Message ----- From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Date: Wednesday, September 3, 2008 9:26 am Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again > > Here's a picture of Don Orrick's door seal. > > -------- > Regards, > Lenny > #40803 > Fuel System... > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2323#202323 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc02917_195.jpg > > > > > RV10-List Email Forum - > _- > = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > _- > = - List Contribution Web Site - > _- > = -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2008
Subject: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear an tear. What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: > > On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different > propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full throttle. I started at > 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 RPM drop I > would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. > > Rob Hickman > N402RH RV-10 > > > > **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel > deal here. > (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Sep 03, 2008
I had looked at Don's seals a while back. This is one of the options we are considering since Abby also did our interior. I was just hoping to drive to, and fix the root cause of the problem. In my opinion, since many people experience this same problem, and have provided many different solutions, Vans should provide a 'factory' solution. In talking with Don about his seals, he said the 'bulb' is smaller, and this is what he thinks fixed the problem. If I remember correctly he also said that Van's factory airplane used a seal with a smaller bulb than what is supplied in the kit. Our seals were installed per the plans, although orienting the seal in the opposite direction may help. While placing the seal on the cabin top instead of the door may work, I wonder what the long term durability of the seal will be with people grabbing the door frame to enter and exit. Would it matter if same seal were placed on the door? Thanks, Jason -------- RV-10 Quick Build 4 Partner Build - Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2350#202350 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Composite class correct dates
Date: Sep 03, 2008
I'm posting the correct dates again. Composites for RV-10s will be Saturday and Sunday, November 15 and 16. This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 15 & 16, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 7. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com **************************************************************************** **************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
Date: Sep 03, 2008
I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report back. I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it. I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference. The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence. It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows! Thank for making me think. On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote: > > This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best > speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking > in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at > 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. > Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 > for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. > > All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed > from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient > temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To > produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall > between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is > for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear > an tear. > > What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? > > William > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > > -------- Original Message -------- >> X-Rcpt-To: >> >> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different >> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full >> throttle. I started at >> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 >> RPM drop I >> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. >> >> Rob Hickman >> N402RH RV-10 >> >> >> >> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find >> your travel >> deal here. >> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
Date: Sep 03, 2008
Boy, I really feel slow now...... 12,500 12.2 GPH Rich of peak 2480 RPM 161 knots (TAS from GRT) My speed test at 8000 feet and 75% power showed about 171......but I have not seen speeds like that in cruise at 12500. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 4:28 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report back. I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it. I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference. The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence. It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows! Thank for making me think. On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote: > > This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best > speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking > in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at > 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. > Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 > for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. > > All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed > from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient > temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To > produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall > between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is > for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear > an tear. > > What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? > > William > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > > -------- Original Message -------- >> X-Rcpt-To: >> >> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different >> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full >> throttle. I started at >> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 >> RPM drop I >> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. >> >> Rob Hickman >> N402RH RV-10 >> >> >> >> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find >> your travel >> deal here. >> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Cool pics
Date: Sep 04, 2008
Hi again Mike. Glad you like the pictures. No, wee would never want an RV12. If anything, we are thinking of buying someones completed RV10 after moving to Ohio. Waiting until the house sells.. Talk to you soon Brian and Ruth PS the Tiger climbs better than the Cirrus SR0 and goes almost as fast. The Cirrus was great at LOP though. We are able to get about 130 kts at 7.6 gal/hr! Our Tiger now gets 132 kts at about 9.6-9.8 g/hr. It just had a top overhaul, and we broke it in- flew it like we stole it at first. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Mike Abel" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Looks like you guys are doing ok. Great pics. Keep looking at that RV12. Might be a really economical way to go. Plus easy to build
Hi again Mike.

Glad you like the pictures. No, wee would never want an RV12. If anything, we are thinking of buying someones completed RV10 after moving to Ohio. Waiting until the house sells.. Talk to you soon

Brian and Ruth

PS the Tiger climbs better than the Cirrus SR0 and goes almost as fast. The Cirrus was great at LOP though. We are able to get about 130 kts at 7.6 gal/hr! Our Tiger now gets 132 kts at about 9.6-9.8 g/hr. It just had a top overhaul, and we broke it in- flew it like we stole it at first.

Looks like you guys are doing ok. Great pics. Keep looking at that RV12. Might be a really economical way to go.

Plus easy to build

________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Sep 04, 2008
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
If anyone is curious I requested a quote from Aircraft Door Seals and they came back at $69.95 each door and the baggage is $39.95 each plus S & H. Alex is a couple bucks cheaper but if you have to order stuff from Alex anyway you would be better off getting them from him to save shipping. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again Dick at AircraftDoorseals is a good guy to deal with. I've used several of his products on my Cherokee. He answered questions quickly and did whatever it took to help folks out. I don't have experience with his door seals on a RV-10 yet, but based upon my previous experience, I would go to him again. We just need to convince Dick to trade in his Lance for a RV-10! :^) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door. I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Project Almost Done - Cleaning House...
Date: Sep 04, 2008
From: "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com>
After over 10 years I'm almost done with my Zodiac 601HDS project (yes, HDS) and I'm cleaning out/selling off the extras to make a little peace in the family... I've put up 2 Electric Gyros Indicators on eBay if anyone is interested: RCA15AK-1 14V Electric Directional Gyro (Lighted) http://tinyurl.com/6n66vm RCA26AK-1 14V Electric Attitude Indicator Gyro (Lighted) http://tinyurl.com/5nnfuu Both are brand new, have zero hours and were bought at R.C. Allen Booth at Oshkosh. Don Honabach Tempe, AZ 601HDS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
Date: Sep 04, 2008
I was thinking about this....may be I mean to say that at a given manifold pressure (19.0 in my case), 2250 RPM, 10 gal and 12,500 (65% as stated in lycoming HP chart) I will lose speed if I increase RPM and keep everything else, including fuel, constant. Now guys, don't jump all over me for being wishy-washy! Rene, you should always be able to go faster at a higher altitude! Right? At the end, I believe that we are very close to each other since it is hard to make a major rigging error on the 10. We are just measuring with different instruments and comparing speeds at different parameters. I have enclose two photos of my panel from a trip. They are both taken on the same trip at different altitudes. I have done the GRT speed correction but will try the GPS speed calibration for the next one. Now, if my outside temp sensor is really out of wack and my numbers are off, it is not my fault! I took these shots with the AP engaged and the plane level in smooth air, with everything settled. Notice no vertical speed, TAS on the right bottom and OAT. You might think that I am a real liar, but if I wiggle my rudder just right, I get a couple of more knots. On Sep 3, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Rene Felker wrote: > > Boy, I really feel slow now...... > > 12,500 > 12.2 GPH Rich of peak > 2480 RPM > 161 knots (TAS from GRT) > > My speed test at 8000 feet and 75% power showed about 171......but I > have > not seen speeds like that in cruise at 12500. > > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 4:28 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test > > > I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your > theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report > back. > > I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I > really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it. > > I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a > chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference. > The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence. > > It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I > also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows! > > Thank for making me think. > > > On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote: > >> >> >> This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best >> speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking >> in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at >> 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. >> Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 >> for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. >> >> All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed >> from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient >> temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To >> produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall >> between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is >> for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear >> an tear. >> >> What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? >> >> William >> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >>> X-Rcpt-To: >>> >>> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different >>> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full >>> throttle. I started at >>> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 >>> RPM drop I >>> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. >>> >>> Rob Hickman >>> N402RH RV-10 >>> >>> >>> >>> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find >>> your travel >>> deal here. >>> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator Counterbalance
Date: Sep 05, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the elevators. Without having a chance to balance the elevators first, trimming these weights make me a bit nervous. It seems like there is the possibility that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal. If I trim the weights as the plans describe, is there still more than enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later? If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weight that's already in place? A drill? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nav Antenna
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
This is supposed to be a Nav antenna (25") repeat request for any info on anyone who has installed one??? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2884#202884 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door seals???????
Date: Sep 06, 2008
I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick to allow the doors to close. I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber seal. JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Door seals???????
Date: Sep 06, 2008
The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there. do nor archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > > > I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, > (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick > to allow the doors to close. > > I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the > doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit > where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, > I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. > > With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the > bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the > seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it > back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I > next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the > entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at > all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective > the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the > solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber > seal. > > JOhn G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: Service Bulletin
Date: Sep 06, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
RV-list, We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if this was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting at the time. The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was no option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail and disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly upside down, left the cables connected. It took about 4 hours to get to the point where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time start to finish was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the Port-A-Cool. At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl & custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now we are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint itself... Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Subject: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Consider that the Cirrus SR-20 and SR-22 with both 2 and 3 blade props don't have any direct prop control. They have only two prop speeds--2500 and 2700 RPM. 2700 RPM when the throttle is pushed in all the way and 2500 when the throttle is anywhere but full power. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I was thinking about this....may be I mean to say that at a given > manifold pressure (19.0 in my case), 2250 RPM, 10 gal and 12,500 (65% > as stated in lycoming HP chart) I will lose speed if I increase RPM > and keep everything else, including fuel, constant. > > Now guys, don't jump all over me for being wishy-washy! > > Rene, you should always be able to go faster at a higher altitude! > Right? > > At the end, I believe that we are very close to each other since it is > hard to make a major rigging error on the 10. We are just measuring > with different instruments and comparing speeds at different parameters. > > I have enclose two photos of my panel from a trip. They are both > taken on the same trip at different altitudes. I have done the GRT > speed correction but will try the GPS speed calibration for the next > one. Now, if my outside temp sensor is really out of wack and my > numbers are off, it is not my fault! > > I took these shots with the AP engaged and the plane level in smooth > air, with everything settled. Notice no vertical speed, TAS on the > right bottom and OAT. > > You might think that I am a real liar, but if I wiggle my rudder just > right, I get a couple of more knots. > > > > > > On Sep 3, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Rene Felker wrote: > > > > > Boy, I really feel slow now...... > > > > 12,500 > > 12.2 GPH Rich of peak > > 2480 RPM > > 161 knots (TAS from GRT) > > > > My speed test at 8000 feet and 75% power showed about 171......but I > > have > > not seen speeds like that in cruise at 12500. > > > > > > Rene' Felker > > RV-10 N423CF Flying > > 801-721-6080 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj > > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 4:28 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test > > > > > > I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your > > theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report > > back. > > > > I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I > > really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it. > > > > I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a > > chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference. > > The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence. > > > > It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I > > also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows! > > > > Thank for making me think. > > > > > > On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best > >> speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking > >> in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at > >> 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. > >> Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 > >> for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. > >> > >> All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed > >> from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient > >> temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To > >> produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall > >> between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is > >> for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear > >> an tear. > >> > >> What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? > >> > >> William > >> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > >> > >> -------- Original Message -------- > >>> X-Rcpt-To: > >>> > >>> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different > >>> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full > >>> throttle. I started at > >>> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 > >>> RPM drop I > >>> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. > >>> > >>> Rob Hickman > >>> N402RH RV-10 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find > >>> your travel > >>> deal here. > >>> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2008
From: "James McGrew" <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: Service Bulletin
Thanks for the tip. I've been dreading having to deal with those cables again. This sounds like a real time saving idea. I'll be doing this next month during my annual. -Jim N312JE On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 1:52 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > RV-list,

August 26, 2008 - September 06, 2008

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