RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dr

September 06, 2008 - September 19, 2008



      >
      >             We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one
      > observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if this
      > was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting at the
      > time.
      >
      >             The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully
      > assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was 
      no
      > option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail and
      > disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the
      > stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly upsi
      de
      > down, left the cables connected.  It took about 4 hours to get to the poi
      nt
      > where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time start to finis
      h
      > was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the Port-A-Cool.
      >
      >             At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl &
      > custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now we
      > are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint itself
      =85
      >
      >
      > Robin
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket
partner14 wrote: > > Ok, the install is finished and it works and looks great. Based on the response I guess I need to run some more. Attached is a pic. > Rick Sked asked about using them as a headset holder.... I have a different bracket design already done and mounted in the plane. Will take a pic and send it out tomorrow. > Don McDonald > #40636 > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1524#201524 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_119.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GPS Antenna Mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2 options. On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges where the top is very thick. Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length or attaching the coax. If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I would have the nuts tighten up against. Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finish Kit
From: "jfgilmore" <jfg(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Call Van's on Monday and request they FAX you a copy of a current packing list. That way you be assured of getting an up to date list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2953#202953 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Finish Kit
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's 1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY. 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!! 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC. 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540) 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540) 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day Gary, I mounted mine on the top cabin centreline aft of the door posts in the thi nner material. Even there, the thickness of the cabin is close to 1/2" and the GPS antenna studs were not long enough. The studs are no where near l ong enough to penetrate the forward (thicker) part of the cabin. I made so me extensions out of steel tube tapped for the antenna studs, and threaded on the outside for the nuts. A bit of work but came out great. Antenna le ad passed through the windshield support brace and through a small cover st rip down the cabin top. I think you can buy an alternate antenna that has a flange mount rather tha n the studs. This (and some rivnuts)is probably a better option if you wan t to mount the antenna to the lid. cheers, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of orchidman Sent: Sun 9/7/2008 7:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 4 30W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2 options. On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges where the top is very thick. Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length or attaching the coax. If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I wou ld have the nuts tighten up against. Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Subject: Finish Kit
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
You stated the Finish Kit but did you mean the Firewall Forward Kit? Seems you would want the Firewall Forward Kit as listed below. Not too much in the Finish Kit is specific to the engine. Get a current FF or Finish kit contents from Van's William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's > > > 1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540 > 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK > 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE > 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP > 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540 > 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT > 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY > 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540 > 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT > 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 > 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE > 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES > 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING > 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 > 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 > 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 > 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT > 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY. > 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT > 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" > 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540 > 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE > 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!! > 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG > 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT > 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE > 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT > 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5 > 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4 > 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4 > 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5 > 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS > 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS > 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS > 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC. > 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS > 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS > 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW > 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE > 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540) > 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV > 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540) > 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT > 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 > 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD > 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN > 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore > Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit > > > I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order > the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other > components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from > Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a > shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't > need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 06, 2008
For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug fit of the standoff. Hope this helps Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 4:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting > > I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the > 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like > I have 2 options. > On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door > posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered > between the door hinges where the top is very thick. > Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw > length or attaching the coax. > If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about > getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I > would have the nuts tighten up against. > > Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Hi What engine are you using? I am using an Eggenfellner E6TI (3.6l) Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required Sent from my iPhone On 6-Sep-08, at 3:51 PM, jfgilmore wrote: > > I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready > to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom > cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want > to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will > not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who > might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just > the finish kit inventory list. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door seals???????
Date: Sep 06, 2008
Left them completely intact in that area, no razor blade down the middle. Thanks, John ---------------------------------------- > From: jesse(at)saintaviation.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seals??????? > Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 14:53:48 -0400 > > > The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around > the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there. > > do nor archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > >> >> >> >> I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, >> (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick >> to allow the doors to close. >> >> I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the >> doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit >> where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, >> I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. >> >> With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the >> bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the >> seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it >> back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I >> next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the >> entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at >> all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective >> the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the >> solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber >> seal. >> >> JOhn G. 409 >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote: > I don't know why you'd want to go to all that trouble unless your 430W > is mounted to the cabin top too. I'm nowhere near the point of mounting > anything electronic, so bear with me. Why not mount the GPS antenna > (and any other satellite antenna) on the glareshield???? The signal > attenuation due to the windshield is negligible. You could hide it > under the cowl (I think even under the cabin top) as long as the carbon > fiber isn't above it. Mine will probably go on the glareshield. > Linn > Linn, In the archives there is a rather large number of people experiencing problems mounting on the glare shield or under the cowl. I don't want to risk having a problem and having to 're-do' it. Thanks, Gary -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2985#202985 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2008
mckervey(at)charter.net wrote: > For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill > the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug > fit of the standoff. > > Hope this helps > > Joe > --- I think my next step is to get the coax connector and go from there. Guess I will be making a call to Stein Monday. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2986#202986 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Thanks Gary.... I guess the direct approach is best! Jim Gilmore, =C2-#40317 RV10 Wings/Empennage complete about to start fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Actually, I was referring to the finish kit. =C2-I won't need anything fro m a Van's FF FWD kit, as my engine package comes complete. Jim Gilmore, #41317 RV10 - Wings/Empennage complete =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-- about to start fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
I'm using a Vesta Inc. engine/prop package. =C2-I will probably start or a t least contribute to a storm of dialogue on the topic, but I like the idea of a non-air-cooled engine and parts that are readily available at local aut o parts stores at non-aviation part prices. =C2-Also, not giving up anythi ng to power and relying on a company that produces millions of engines rathe r than thousands is very appealing. Jim Gilmore, #40317 RV10 - Wings/empennage complete =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-- about to start fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 07, 2008
Any problem mounting the GPS antennas on the top of the tailcone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 9:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting > > > mckervey(at)charter.net wrote: >> For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill >> the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug >> fit of the standoff. >> >> Hope this helps >> >> Joe >> --- > > I think my next step is to get the coax connector and go from there. > Guess I will be making a call to Stein Monday. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2986#202986 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 07, 2008
That is where I mounted mine. It has worked great. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 7:39 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting Any problem mounting the GPS antennas on the top of the tailcone? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 9:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting > > > mckervey(at)charter.net wrote: >> For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill >> the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug >> fit of the standoff. >> >> Hope this helps >> >> Joe >> --- > > I think my next step is to get the coax connector and go from there. > Guess I will be making a call to Stein Monday. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2986#202986 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Lables
Date: Sep 07, 2008
Final call for any one still wanting a fuel lable. I ordered a few extras to get the price break and so have 4 more sets if anyone still wants one and missed the cut off date. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator pushrod safety wire size
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2008
What size safety wire did you guys use for the F-1089 elevator pushrod? I didn't see any size specified in the plans. I used .041 and it seems to be binding... Should I use a thinner wire or just make a bigger loop at the rod end bearing? Lenny, #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3074#203074 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2008
daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com wrote: > Any problem mounting the GPS antennas on the top of the tailcone? > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA (Reserved) > Muskego, WI > > --- That has been added to the list of possible locations. I dug out the installation manual and the one I have been using for the 430W is REV B. paragraph 3.10.1 It lists a max coax length of 35 feet and you have to calculate the minimum length. It comes out to about 15 feet. However, I have an updated version REV E and checking it, the text has changed. I have a GA35 antenna and the new text places this antenna in a new category only requiring a minimum length of 6.5 feet and the max still at 35 feet. All of this is based on a dB signal loss that is required for the receiver. If I mount it on the first AL skin on top, that would put me right in the middle of the dB loss range based on 2 connectors and the coax length and having a full view of the heavens. The only down side is that it would be within 19" of my magnatomitor. Guess I will need to call Rob tomorrow and see if they have any feeling about the amount of mag distoration the GPS antenna emits. All thoughts are appreciated. Nothing is locked in stone yet. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3083#203083 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finish Kit
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2008
What is the current price for the Vesta package and what do you get for that price? -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3084#203084 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 07, 2008
Your magnetometer is not much over 18" from your auto pilot servo. I don't think the GPS antenna emits anything. I think it is just a receiver. 19" should be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to verify that with Rob. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Sep 7, 2008, at 4:18 PM, orchidman wrote: > > > daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com wrote: >> Any problem mounting the GPS antennas on the top of the tailcone? >> >> Dave Leikam >> RV-10 #40496 >> N89DA (Reserved) >> Muskego, WI >> >> --- > > That has been added to the list of possible locations. > I dug out the installation manual and the one I have been using for > the 430W is REV B. paragraph 3.10.1 > It lists a max coax length of 35 feet and you have to calculate the > minimum length. It comes out to about 15 feet. However, I have an > updated version REV E and checking it, the text has changed. I have > a GA35 antenna and the new text places this antenna in a new > category only requiring a minimum length of 6.5 feet and the max > still at 35 feet. > > All of this is based on a dB signal loss that is required for the > receiver. > > If I mount it on the first AL skin on top, that would put me right > in the middle of the dB loss range based on 2 connectors and the > coax length and having a full view of the heavens. The only down > side is that it would be within 19" of my magnatomitor. Guess I > will need to call Rob tomorrow and see if they have any feeling > about the amount of mag distoration the GPS antenna emits. > > All thoughts are appreciated. Nothing is locked in stone yet. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3083#203083 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Epoxy on Trailing edges
Date: Sep 07, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Can anyone explain why the epoxy is needed on the trailing edges? =C2-I ha ve just finished the flaps and ailerons, and the clecoed trailing edges (wit h dry center wedge) follow a laser line of straightness. =C2-I'm afraid th at if I pry the skins apart enough (everything is such a nice tight fit now) to get the center wedge in with epoxy, that I'll bend the skins outward, an d I will ruin the nice straight edge that I now have. =C2-Therefore, I'd r ather not use the epoxy and just go ahead with the double-flush riveting... Has anyone done it this way? =C2-I went flying with a friend today in a 17 2, and there was certainly no epoxy used on the trailing edges of those wing s! Jim GIlmore, #40317 Wings, Empennage finished, ready to start fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2008
jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: > Your magnetometer is not much over 18" from your auto pilot servo. I > don't think the GPS antenna emits anything. I think it is just a > receiver. 19" should be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to verify that > with Rob. > > Jesse Saint > The battery + lead (closest part of the battery) and the AP servo are right at 23". The one thing that might be a problem is the strobe power supply which is 28" away. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3103#203103 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Empennage Kit for sale on E-Bay
Date: Sep 07, 2008
I have just posted my RV-8 Empennage kit for sale on E-Bay. Kit number 81777. I am currently building a -10. Details for item number: 140265193528 Listing URL: http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29296-2357-0?uid=47907171&site=0&ver=LCA080805&item=140265193528&lk=URL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting
Date: Sep 07, 2008
Gary, My battery and TruTrak servo are in the stock locations. I have my GPS antenna just aft of the cabin roof on the tail boom, a little to the right side. My AFS magnetometer is mounted high in the tailboom just forward of the first former aft of the battery. I mounted it on a little 7* tray to align it vertically with the panel. The thing I worried about most was a cabin speaker mounted high on the left side of the baggage compartment rear wall. I was prepared to move it if it affected the magnetometer, but everything (mentioned) works perfectly. I think you're on the right track. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 4:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting jesse(at)saintaviation.co wrote: > Your magnetometer is not much over 18" from your auto pilot servo. I > don't think the GPS antenna emits anything. I think it is just a > receiver. 19" should be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to verify that > with Rob. > > Jesse Saint > The battery + lead (closest part of the battery) and the AP servo are right at 23". The one thing that might be a problem is the strobe power supply which is 28" away. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3103#203103 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator pushrod safety wire size
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2008
Thanks Tim! Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3145#203145 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 51% Deadline Approaching
Date: Sep 08, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The NW RV-10 Builders completed a remarkable dinner on Saturday night at the home of Randy & Cheryl DeBauw (First flying RV-10, N610RV). We were fortunate enough to have both Dick and Diane Van Grunsven (N410DV) in attendance. Dick shared with all of us his personal perspective and experience as Co-Chair on the ARC Committee. The deadline for written comments is now just three weeks away - September 30th. The FAA would truly like to hear from you. Painfully, very few builders have written comments on this important policy changes. One of our members who could not attend asked that I forward to all of you, the information from the EAA perspective (the body the FAA chose to run with on this) and the contact on how to make your comments known. It is not important your politics, or politically correct affiliation. It was too easy to forget that not every member of this list is an EAA member and may or may not have already heard about the process. Several foreign countries are watching the direction the U.S. FAA takes on kit built aircraft policy. Please find attached, two PDFs on the EAA recommended position (for reference only 12 pages) and both the email or the US Postal address (two pages) for your needed written comments. Thanks John Cox #600 <> <> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Performance
Date: Sep 08, 2008
I made a flight from Yuma to Southern Idaho and return last week and recorded the following: OAT ALT RPM MAP GPH TAS 64f 7500' 2200 22.5 12.9 154k 50f 10500' 2150 20.7 11.2 155k 45f 11500' 2260 20.1 12.2 154k Engine is IO540 with 10:1, single Lightspeed, ACI 3 blade. WOT leaned to approx 100 ROP. Also, FYI, Fillmore, UT (KFOM) 100LL was $4.419. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 08, 2008
I have my GPS 496 in an Air Gizmo holder in my panel After expending considerable anxiety trying to decide where to put the 2 antennas for my 496 (principal nav device) unit. I decided against putting them on a shelf in the engine compartment. I put them both on the glare-shield on the advice of Bob at Garmin. I hard wired and screwed the GPS antenna into the glare-shield. The XM is another case........ You have to procure two (2) metric M3x6 screws to fit the bottom of the XM antenna. You want to make the XM antenna removable form the aircraft so that (if you want) you can get satellite weather at home. I fabricated a bracket that fits on top of the glare-shield and is removable. The XM antenna is screwed to the bracket and the bracket unhooks from the glare-shield with one screw. You also need a 1/4" hole in the top of the glare-shield to push the wire and mini-USB cable through. My first though was to get another XM antenna. NO NO NO...... The XM WX subscription is dedicated to the antenna NOT the GPS 496 unit. Many thanks to Bob at Garmin Aviation division -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3321#203321 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
Date: Sep 08, 2008
I put velcro on my XM antenna to hold it on the glare shield so I can swap it between the RV-6A and RV-10. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 10:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting > > I have my GPS 496 in an Air Gizmo holder in my panel > > After expending considerable anxiety trying to decide where to put the 2 > antennas for my 496 (principal nav device) unit. I decided against putting > them on a shelf in the engine compartment. I put them both on the > glare-shield on the advice of Bob at Garmin. I hard wired and screwed the > GPS antenna into the glare-shield. The XM is another case........ > > You have to procure two (2) metric M3x6 screws to fit the bottom of the XM > antenna. You want to make the XM antenna removable form the aircraft so > that (if you want) you can get satellite weather at home. I fabricated a > bracket that fits on top of the glare-shield and is removable. The XM > antenna is screwed to the bracket and the bracket unhooks from the > glare-shield with one screw. You also need a 1/4" hole in the top of the > glare-shield to push the wire and mini-USB cable through. My first though > was to get another XM antenna. NO NO NO...... The XM WX subscription is > dedicated to the antenna NOT the GPS 496 unit. > > Many thanks to Bob at Garmin Aviation division > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3321#203321 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
Date: Sep 08, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Mike, You know that AirGizmos also sells an XM Antenna Dock that allows you to remove & use the ($500) XM antenna else ware. I purchased an Antenna Dock Premium at SNF 2 years ago. http://www.airgizmos.com/antennadock.asp Of course it's not as inexpensive as two M3x6 screws. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 51% Deadline Approaching
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2008
These are part of the comments that I sent to the FAA on the new proposals - what do you think? I like the education and recreation language of the current regulation. It seems that the words "significant personal involvement in the assembly and fabrication of the aircraft for education and recreation ", makes a lot of sense. A time log and or progress log (written or electronic) might have to become mandatory. Special accommodation may have to be made in the case of an Experimental aircraft that was started and then sold to another home builder. If I order an experimental aircraft from a professional builder - I should have ordered a Cessna or a Piper. If I show up at the professional builder's location for a few cameo assembly pictures, then try to pull the wool over the DAR's face, I should not expect an Experimental Certificate. Perhaps, for a fee, the FAA can certify professionally fabricated kit planes, but they would be something other than Experimental. Significant personal involvement should not be too difficult to ascertain with a simple checklist and careful questioning of the builder on the structure, and systems of the craft. An experimental owner builder MUST have an intimate familiarity with all of the structure, and systems of the craft. This gets back to the phrase education and recreation. An appeal process could also be implemented for those turned down for an Experimental Certificate. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3340#203340 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2008
OK, where are the pictures and plans. I want details, details, details [Mr. Green] -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3358#203358 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2008
From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 51% Deadline Approaching
Thanks John for the reminder. Mine's going out today.Bruce PS: Man, that pulled-pork was good. And the deserts! Way too many! On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 9:49 AM, John Cox wrote: > The NW RV-10 Builders completed a remarkable dinner on Saturday night at > the home of Randy & Cheryl DeBauw (First flying RV-10, N610RV). We were > fortunate enough to have both Dick and Diane Van Grunsven (N410DV) in > attendance. Dick shared with all of us his personal perspective and > experience as Co-Chair on the ARC Committee. The deadline for written > comments is now just three weeks away - September 30th. The FAA would > truly like to hear from you. Painfully, very few builders have written > comments on this important policy changes. > > One of our members who could not attend asked that I forward to all of you, > the information from the EAA perspective (the body the FAA chose to run > with on this) and the contact on how to make your comments known. It is > not important your politics, or politically correct affiliation. It was > too easy to forget that not every member of this list is an EAA member and > may or may not have already heard about the process. Several foreign > countries are watching the direction the U.S. FAA takes on kit built > aircraft policy. > > Please find attached, two PDFs on the EAA recommended position (for > reference only 12 pages) and both the email or the US Postal address (two > pages) for your needed written comments. > > Thanks > > John Cox > > #600 > > <> < on Convoluted Proposal for Enfo.pdf>> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Shoulder harness bracket
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2008
Ok, there's good news and bad news. The good news is that for all of you that requested the shoulder harness bracket only, they went out this morning.... even to some who I hadn't received ck's from yet. The bad news,,, which is actually good news, is that I pulled the headset bracket off my 10 and redesigned it so that it would fit almost all headsets, and also changed from aluminum to stainless. Also good news,,,, they ran them today on the cnc, are partially deburred, but now are awaiting the brake and about 6 hours in the tumbler. Best guess is that they will be ready the end of this week.... to probably ship next week. It's been great talking to everyone. Don McDonald #40636 Finishing the plane and the kitchen remodel ps. We ran another 45 of the shoulder harness brackets and the first run of the headset brackets was 32. [Laughing] -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3496#203496 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_114.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: elt locations
Date: Sep 09, 2008
I'm considering mounting the ELT antenna inside the airplane on the longeron behind the passenger side rear window. For people that have done this where are you mounting the ELT itself? Pictures would be nice. THX -Ben ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: power off glide and descent rate
Date: Sep 09, 2008
What sort of numbers are people seeing for best glide speed and rates of descent? I'm curious if there is an appreciable difference between the 2-blade descent rate and the 3-blade descent rate in a power off glide? Rob have you done any testing in this arena with the hartzell? If so do you know what your descent rate is? All this talk about cruise performance between the 2 and 3 bladed guys but so far we haven't discussed the "oh s**t" performance. -Ben Westfall ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: elt locations
Mine is on the floor of the tailcone right of the bellcrank assembly in the tailcone...used some angle stock atached to the J-stringers=C2-and made a floor for the bracket to be attached too...pretty basic..There is an adva ntage to making it accessible in the event of an unlikely water landing as you suggest behind the passenger...you could actually remove it, install th e external antenna=C2-and=C2-plug your headset into it easily if needed . Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 9, 2008 8:21:29 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: elt locations I=99m considering mounting the ELT antenna inside the airplane on the longeron behind the passenger side rear window. =C2-For people that have done this where are you mounting the ELT itself? =C2-Pictures would be n ice. THX -Ben ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aluminum Windshield Fairing
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2008
Has anyone tried fabricating an aluminum windshield front fairing instead of the fiberglass? I seem to remember seeing one, but cannot find anything in the archives. I have access to some pretty sophisticated metal forming equipment, so the thought crossed my mind.............. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3503#203503 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing
http://www.mlskunkworks.embarqspace.com/#/windscreenfairings/4528454960 dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > Has anyone tried fabricating an aluminum windshield front fairing instead of the fiberglass? I seem to remember seeing one, but cannot find anything in the archives. I have access to some pretty sophisticated metal forming equipment, so the thought crossed my mind.............. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3503#203503 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: elt locations
I hope the pics are self explainatory.- Any questions, just email. Don McDonald #40636 --- On Tue, 9/9/08, Ben Westfall wrote: From: Ben Westfall <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> Subject: RV10-List: elt locations Date: Tuesday, September 9, 2008, 8:21 PM I=A2m considering mounting the ELT antenna inside the airplane on the longe ron behind the passenger side rear window. -For people that have done thi s where are you mounting the ELT itself? -Pictures would be nice. - THX - -Ben - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Tach Pulse Generator
Date: Sep 09, 2008
There was some mention of a tach pulse generator that fit on the vacuum pump pad. Does anyone remember the source of that device? Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: power off glide and descent rate
Date: Sep 10, 2008
There are couple of Robs on the list ,I think. I have done the testing but won't have access to them until next week. I'll be happy to tell you mine if you tell me yours! On Sep 9, 2008, at 11:33 PM, Ben Westfall wrote: > What sort of numbers are people seeing for best glide speed and > rates of descent? I=92m curious if there is an appreciable difference > between the 2-blade descent rate and the 3-blade descent rate in a > power off glide? Rob have you done any testing in this arena with > the hartzell? If so do you know what your descent rate is? All > this talk about cruise performance between the 2 and 3 bladed guys > but so far we haven=92t discussed the =93oh s**t=94 performance. > > -Ben Westfall > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: elt locations
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I was told that antennas like these cannot "see" thru carbon fiber. Is any part of the cabin top made with carbon fiber? Also I think that Rob Hickman from Advanced Flight Systems also has his mounted in the baggage area. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3528#203528 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: elt locations
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I mounted my ELT antenna just inside the baggage compartment immediately on the left almost against the fuselage. It's out of the way and in case I ever need it hopefully I will be able to get at it. I thought about putting it behind the bulkhead, which I think many have done, but as I said I wanted to be able to get at it. Also I have an overhead console and I have the ELT antenna mounted horizontally up in the console. I've also seen some mount the antenna horizontally in the tail section area and you can access it if the rear fairing is off. I've attached a couple of photos of where I mounted it. I've done quite a bit of traveling, using the baggage compartment, and it's nit proved to be any problem. Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Aluminum Windshield Fairing
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Dick Nordquist from the Lino Air park made metal fairings for everything on his 6. He can tell you the good and the bad. Let me know if you want contact info. Gary Specketer 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum Windshield Fairing Has anyone tried fabricating an aluminum windshield front fairing instead of the fiberglass? I seem to remember seeing one, but cannot find anything in the archives. I have access to some pretty sophisticated metal forming equipment, so the thought crossed my mind.............. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3503#203503 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: power off glide and descent rate
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I'd tell you mine but I need to get busy attaching the wings and motor! Any response from a "Rob" will do of course :-) but I was thinking Rob Hickman but obviously didn't make that clear. THX -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 2:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: power off glide and descent rate There are couple of Robs on the list ,I think. I have done the testing but won't have access to them until next week. I'll be happy to tell you mine if you tell me yours! On Sep 9, 2008, at 11:33 PM, Ben Westfall wrote: What sort of numbers are people seeing for best glide speed and rates of descent? I'm curious if there is an appreciable difference between the 2-blade descent rate and the 3-blade descent rate in a power off glide? Rob have you done any testing in this arena with the hartzell? If so do you know what your descent rate is? All this talk about cruise performance between the 2 and 3 bladed guys but so far we haven't discussed the "oh s**t" performance. -Ben Westfall ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Subject: Re: power off glide and descent rate
I have not tried to measure it and I don't have enough experience flying another RV-10 with the two blade prop. Dan Benua and I flew both my RV-10 and his RV-10 on Sunday practicing IFR approaches and he felt that my RV-10 had more braking (prop drag) in the pattern. I am currently using the RV-10 for IFR training and flying over 5 hours a week with an instructor. I am finding that the 90 kts flap speed is pretty slow and the drag from the prop helps. In practicing engine out landings in the RV-10 I have not noticed a big difference between it and my RV-4. The fine pitch stop adjustment on the prop will also make a big difference in glide performance. When I switched from the 7660 Hartzell to the composite two blade Hartzell (same large blades as on my RV-10) in my RV-4 I lost a lot of the braking that I had been used to. I am not sure if it is because of the fine pitch stop or that the large blades have more thrust at idle rpm settings. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 85 Hours **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Not sure why putting the gps antennas under the cowling isn't good idea. except for the XM, rest of gps antennas are under cowl and work great. 530. 496,AFS, etc. 496 is mounted on gizmo bracket with usual cables hard wired to back. ran the XM 'extension' that is available thru small hole thru glare-shield and brought it out by center pole at base of glare-shield. the end of the extension just sits there--hardly able to see it. plug the xm hockey puck into it and good to go. no mounting. it sits there during takeoff, etc. works great. unplug and your ready to use it in another setting. simple, no fuss. larry b. -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3714#203714 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Annuciator Lights
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Les, I'm not sure if you got any responses so here's my .02. I have the same pitot and recommend you keep the lights as is. One is for power, one for low temp, and one for heat on. I don't think you would want just one light and it would take some creative electronic wizardry to employ a light with 3 colors available. I just drilled 3 holes in the panel next to the pitot heat switch and glued the lights in place, it works great. I haven't used any annunciator lights other that what came with the GRT EFIS so can't help you there. Marcus 40286 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Annuciator Lights Hi As I layout my panel I am wondering about what is the best choice for annuciator lights. I see Stein has some nice LEDS (http://www.steinair.com/lights.htm) that will do the job. Has anyone found a similar light that will display red/yellow/green on the same light? My Gretz heated pitot has a small board with three LEDS that I would like to combine into a single light. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Annuciator Lights
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Hi Marcus I might do as you suggest. Do you have a pix of your lights? I still have time to decide. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 10-Sep-08, at 5:52 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote: > Les, > > I=99m not sure if you got any responses so here=99s my .02. I > have the same pitot and recommend you keep the lights as is. One is > for power, one for low temp, and one for heat on. I don=99t think yo > u would want just one light and it would take some creative electron > ic wizardry to employ a light with 3 colors available. I just drill > ed 3 holes in the panel next to the pitot heat switch and glued the > lights in place, it works great. > > > I haven=99t used any annunciator lights other that what came with the > GRT EFIS so can=99t help you there. > > > Marcus > > 40286 > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Les Kearney > Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Annuciator Lights > > > Hi > > > As I layout my panel I am wondering about what is the best choice > for annuciator lights. I see Stein has some nice LEDS (http://www.steinair.com/lights.htm > ) that will do the job. > > > Has anyone found a similar light that will display red/yellow/green > on the same light? My Gretz heated pitot has a small board with > three LEDS that I would like to combine into a single light. > > > Inquiring minds need to know > > > Les Kearney > > #40643 =93 Some assembly required > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2008
From: "Bill Judge" <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting (orchidman)
Here is how I mounted my XM and GPS antenna for the 496: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=29027 > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting > From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> > > > OK, where are the pictures and plans. > I want details, details, details [Mr. Green] > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: baggage door seal on hinge
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I noticed that there is a gap on the hinge side of the baggage door that does not call for a seal in the plans (sect 34-6 fig 1) . Did anyone use anything on that side to fill the gaps? Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 10, 2008
Well folks I'm not a happy camper=2C Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10=2C and there is craz ing where some clamps were on the sides=2C photo & details below. So here a re my questions: 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from creepi ng? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it doesn't kee p creeping. The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no problems usi ng foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was install ed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks with additio nal clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only rubbing alcohol was use d for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no nick or scratches. T he gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit sand paper. The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing process. At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's=2C he has r equested pictures. Any help or suggestion would be appreciated=2C Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life together=97at home=2C work=2C or on the go. /9j/4QbSRXhpZgAASUkqAAgAAAALAA4BAgAgAAAAngAAAA8BAgAPAAAAvgAAABABAgALAAAAzgAA ABoBBQABAAAA2gAAABsBBQABAAAA4gAAACgBAwABAAAAAgAAADEBAgATAAAA6gAAADIBAgAUAAAA /gAAABMCAwABAAAAAgAAABQCBQAGAAAAEgEAAGmHBAABAAAAQgEAAAAAAADHZJXGbJXGbwAAAABL T05JQ0EgTUlOT0xUQSBESUdJVEFMIENBTUVSQSAgAEtPTklDQSBNSU5PTFRBAABEaU1BR0UgWjEw AABIAAAAAQAAAEgAAAABAAAARGlNQUdFIFoxMCBWZXIxLjAwAAAyMDA4OjA5OjEwIDE2OjQ2OjEw AAAAAAABAAAA/wAAAAEAAACAAAAAAQAAAP8AAAABAAAAgAAAAAEAAAD/AAAAAQAAACMAmoIFAAEA AAA0AwAAnYIFAAEAAAA8AwAAIogDAAEAAAACAAAAJ4gDAAEAAADIAAAAAJAHAAQAAAAwMjIwA5AC ABQAAADsAgAABJACABQAAAAAAwAAAZEHAAQAAAABAgMAA5IKAAEAAAAUAwAABJIKAAEAAAAcAwAA BZIFAAEAAAAkAwAAB5IDAAEAAAAFAAAACJIDAAEAAAAAAAAACZIDAAEAAAAQAAAACpIFAAEAAAAs 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Subject: Re: Garmin GPS496 Antenna & XM antenna mounting
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2008
It ain't beautiful, but it works. The Xaon XRX sits in from of the XM Puck -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3757#203757 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p9090713_865.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I am not flying yet, but had the same thing happen to me with one of my side windows. It is really frustrating and it seems 10x as big a deal with the front windscreen. It has not spread on mine, but it is not really subject to vibration yet. I am leaving it, but on the main windscreen, I would have to think about it. Stop drilling is always an option and works well on plexi. I did it on an old Piper Archer that I had. My three big beefs with the basically superb RV10 design are: 1)the structural windows that cannot be removed and replaced easily 2) the riveted down floors in the back with no inspection holes (I made some) and 3) electric pitch trim w/o manual backup -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3758#203758 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Same thing happened to me. I have seen no growth since I have been flying...~50 hrs. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 10:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing Well folks I'm not a happy camper, Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So here are my questions: 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it doesn't keep creeping. The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no problems using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only rubbing alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit sand paper. The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing process. At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he has requested pictures. Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) _____ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetgo/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spinner blade clearance
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Well, I'm sitting here on vacation at the outer banks (surf fish on Ocracoke Is. every Sept. for the past 45 yrs. -- was here on 9/11/01 also) ... and I'm building the -10 in my mind. Go figgur! The Hartzell prop came in right before I left and we temporarily mounted it in order to fit the cowl and spinner. As I recall, the instructions say to make sure the cut outs in the spinner for the blades have enough clearance through the pitch cycle ...????? It may be obvious (since I searched the archives and found no one else seems to have this problem), but how do you rotate the blades through their pitch manually? Later, - Lew (keeping an eye out for hurricanes and eating lots of fresh Bluefish -- there IS a landing strip out here, send me an email and I'll meet you there!) -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3793#203793 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Spinner blade clearance
Date: Sep 11, 2008
I clamped padded boards to the blades and then used the boards as a lever. I think the boards were only two feet or so. Gives you enough of a lever to move them. Sorry no pictures. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 7:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Spinner blade clearance Well, I'm sitting here on vacation at the outer banks (surf fish on Ocracoke Is. every Sept. for the past 45 yrs. -- was here on 9/11/01 also) ... and I'm building the -10 in my mind. Go figgur! The Hartzell prop came in right before I left and we temporarily mounted it in order to fit the cowl and spinner. As I recall, the instructions say to make sure the cut outs in the spinner for the blades have enough clearance through the pitch cycle ...????? It may be obvious (since I searched the archives and found no one else seems to have this problem), but how do you rotate the blades through their pitch manually? Later, - Lew (keeping an eye out for hurricanes and eating lots of fresh Bluefish -- there IS a landing strip out here, send me an email and I'll meet you there!) -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3793#203793 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Spinner blade clearance
Why would you need to rotate the blades? Seems you could just measure widest spot on the blades at the root and ensure your opening is circular with a diameter of that widest spot plus 2 times the clearance value you want. Or am I missing something? Rene Felker wrote: > > I clamped padded boards to the blades and then used the boards as a lever. > I think the boards were only two feet or so. Gives you enough of a lever to > move them. Sorry no pictures. > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher > Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 7:34 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Spinner blade clearance > > > Well, I'm sitting here on vacation at the outer banks (surf fish on Ocracoke > Is. every Sept. for the past 45 yrs. -- was here on 9/11/01 also) ... and > I'm building the -10 in my mind. Go figgur! > > The Hartzell prop came in right before I left and we temporarily mounted it > in order to fit the cowl and spinner. As I recall, the instructions say to > make sure the cut outs in the spinner for the blades have enough clearance > through the pitch cycle ...????? > > It may be obvious (since I searched the archives and found no one else seems > to have this problem), but how do you rotate the blades through their pitch > manually? > > > Later, - Lew > (keeping an eye out for hurricanes and eating lots of fresh Bluefish -- > there IS a landing strip out here, send me an email and I'll meet you > there!) > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3793#203793 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Spinner blade clearance
Date: Sep 11, 2008
You can twist it by hand, but using a couple of 2x4's with a 1x? spacer (as Rene mentioned) with a rag or foam padding makes it a little easier if you are doing it by yourself. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Sep 11, 2008, at 9:34 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Well, I'm sitting here on vacation at the outer banks (surf fish on > Ocracoke Is. every Sept. for the past 45 yrs. -- was here on > 9/11/01 also) ... and I'm building the -10 in my mind. Go figgur! > > The Hartzell prop came in right before I left and we temporarily > mounted it in order to fit the cowl and spinner. As I recall, the > instructions say to make sure the cut outs in the spinner for the > blades have enough clearance through the pitch cycle ...????? > > It may be obvious (since I searched the archives and found no one > else seems to have this problem), but how do you rotate the blades > through their pitch manually? > > > Later, - Lew > (keeping an eye out for hurricanes and eating lots of fresh > Bluefish -- there IS a landing strip out here, send me an email and > I'll meet you there!) > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3793#203793 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Spinner blade clearance
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Been a while since I did it. But.....the blades only rotate part way (degrees of pitch) and you do not end up with a circular hole. You could just cut the hole to fit worst case blade movement, but then you would end up with a larger gap than needed........might slow you down by .000000001 MPH.....:) Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Spinner blade clearance Why would you need to rotate the blades? Seems you could just measure widest spot on the blades at the root and ensure your opening is circular with a diameter of that widest spot plus 2 times the clearance value you want. Or am I missing something? Rene Felker wrote: > > I clamped padded boards to the blades and then used the boards as a lever. > I think the boards were only two feet or so. Gives you enough of a lever to > move them. Sorry no pictures. > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher > Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 7:34 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Spinner blade clearance > > > Well, I'm sitting here on vacation at the outer banks (surf fish on Ocracoke > Is. every Sept. for the past 45 yrs. -- was here on 9/11/01 also) ... and > I'm building the -10 in my mind. Go figgur! > > The Hartzell prop came in right before I left and we temporarily mounted it > in order to fit the cowl and spinner. As I recall, the instructions say to > make sure the cut outs in the spinner for the blades have enough clearance > through the pitch cycle ...????? > > It may be obvious (since I searched the archives and found no one else seems > to have this problem), but how do you rotate the blades through their pitch > manually? > > > Later, - Lew > (keeping an eye out for hurricanes and eating lots of fresh Bluefish -- > there IS a landing strip out here, send me an email and I'll meet you > there!) > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3793#203793 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Amen on the Gull Wing Door -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3824#203824 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
You know, the common thread I see when people bring up crazing with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some clamps, but not very tight clamps on mine....I think I may have only used those squeeze clamps that you open with your hands. Either way, I didn't use tons of pressure, just used them to hold position. I had no crazing. I'm starting to wonder if the people having crazing aren't maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps, or perhaps not spreading the force out enough on the windows. I'd say, pad the clamps, and don't clamp any tighter than necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to squeeze out excess glue, just position it. I don't know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem, but I do notice that in almost all cases, the person said it either crazed where the clamps were, or at least that they had used clamps. I'm betting this is the cause somehow. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Vernon Smith wrote: > Well folks I'm not a happy camper, > > Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is > crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So > here are my questions: > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? > > 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > doesn't keep creeping. > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no problems > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only rubbing > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit > sand paper. > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing process. > At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he > has requested pictures. > > Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, > > Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life > togetgo/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Don't know for sure, but just assuming that the clamping pressure increases the temperature of the Weldon during the curing process. It would not take much initial clamp pressure to do that once the Weldon starts to expand during the curing process. I would add that in my case I wiped off the excess Weldon except for the area under the clamp. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:17 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing You know, the common thread I see when people bring up crazing with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some clamps, but not very tight clamps on mine....I think I may have only used those squeeze clamps that you open with your hands. Either way, I didn't use tons of pressure, just used them to hold position. I had no crazing. I'm starting to wonder if the people having crazing aren't maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps, or perhaps not spreading the force out enough on the windows. I'd say, pad the clamps, and don't clamp any tighter than necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to squeeze out excess glue, just position it. I don't know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem, but I do notice that in almost all cases, the person said it either crazed where the clamps were, or at least that they had used clamps. I'm betting this is the cause somehow. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Vernon Smith wrote: > Well folks I'm not a happy camper, > > Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is > crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So > here are my questions: > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? > > 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > doesn't keep creeping. > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no problems > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only rubbing > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit > sand paper. > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing process. > At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he > has requested pictures. > > Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, > > Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > See how Windows Mobile brings your life > togetgo/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Hi Tim=2C I used the same hand type clamps as shown on your web site during install o f your window. All clamps were padded with layers of masking tape. There i s no sign of deflection of the acrylic during or after clamping=2C but mayb e hand springe clamps are not the best choice. The thought that direct pres sure on the Weld-on cause it to set off is an interesting idea. I am in contact with IPS technical service (they manufacture Weld-on) and t hey have the pictures also. It was suggested to try using a diluted deterge nt (two drops on non ammonium based dish soap in gallon of water) to clean the mating surfaces instead of the rubbing alcohol. Also there may be a nee d to anneal the acrylic before installing to normalize the internal stresse s of the plastic. They also said Weld-On 10 was a good choice for gluing ac rylic to fiberglass. As for repair they are working on it & I will pass along anything I learn. Van's did get back with me and here is Scott's reply: Vern=2C Thanks for the photos. This looks very similar to what we saw on bo th of our RV-10's. Spoke with the rest of the tech crew here and all input that we've had is that the crazing does not 'move' significantly after the weld-on sets up and clamps are removed. scott at van's Thanks=2C Vern Smith (#324) > Date: Thu=2C 11 Sep 2008 12:16:38 -0500> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com> To: rv10- list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing> > --> RV1 0-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > You know=2C the com mon thread I see when people bring up crazing> with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some> clamps=2C but not very tight clamps on m ine....I think I may have> only used those squeeze clamps that you open wit h your hands.> Either way=2C I didn't use tons of pressure=2C just used the m to> hold position. I had no crazing.> > I'm starting to wonder if the peo ple having crazing aren't> maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps =2C or perhaps> not spreading the force out enough on the windows.> > I'd s ay=2C pad the clamps=2C and don't clamp any tighter than> necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to> squeeze out excess glue=2C just posi tion it. I don't> know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem =2C> but I do notice that in almost all cases=2C the person> said it either crazed where the clamps were=2C or at least> that they had used clamps. I' m betting this is the cause> somehow.> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying> > > > Vernon Smith wrote:> > Well folks I'm not a happy camper=2C> > > > J ust finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10=2C and there is > > c razing where some clamps were on the sides=2C photo & details below. So > > here are my questions:> > > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint?> > > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window?> > > > 2: I s there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > > creepi ng? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > > doesn't keep creeping.> > > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windo ws with no problems > > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a st rap & foam blocks > > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the craz ing.) Only rubbing > > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded complete ly smooth with no > > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed u p with 240 grit > > sand paper.> > > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing process. > > At which time I removed the side cl amps. And called Scott at Van's=2C he > > has requested pictures.> > > > An y help or suggestion would be appreciated=2C> > > > Vern Smith (#324 finish ing sort of)> > > > ------------------------------------------------------- -----------------> > See how Windows Mobile brings your life > > togetgo/ms nnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now> > ---------------- ========================> > > _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5 50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Ahhhhhh!!!! You used rubbing alcohol!!! That's a definite no-no! There aren't that many things you can clean it with. Kerosene is one. There IS one thing that I used that I can't endorse, but can report on. During painting we used PPG DCX330 degreaser extensively in prep of things, INCLUDING all the window edges, and we tested it on the windshield scraps to make sure it wouldn't craze. So maybe that is an option. But yeah, NO SOLVENTS on the windshield for cleaning....that's definitely not a good idea. mild soap and water, maybe...but I'd be careful of anything else. kerosene obviously wouldn't be good pre-cleaning for paint....but might not be so bad pre-installation. Also, I'd leave any plastic on windows as long as possible. Tim Vernon Smith wrote: > > Hi Tim, > > I used the same hand type clamps as shown on your web site during > install of your window. All clamps were padded with layers of masking > tape. There is no sign of deflection of the acrylic during or after > clamping, but maybe hand springe clamps are not the best choice. The > thought that direct pressure on the Weld-on cause it to set off is an > interesting idea. > > I am in contact with IPS technical service (they manufacture Weld-on) > and they have the pictures also. It was suggested to try using a diluted > detergent (two drops on non ammonium based dish soap in gallon of water) > to clean the mating surfaces instead of the rubbing alcohol. Also there > may be a need to anneal the acrylic before installing to normalize the > internal stresses of the plastic. They also said Weld-On 10 was a good > choice for gluing acrylic to fiberglass. > > As for repair they are working on it & I will pass along anything I learn. > > Van's did get back with me and here is Scott's reply: > > /Vern, Thanks for the photos. This looks very similar to what we saw on > both of our RV-10's. > Spoke with the rest of the tech crew here and all input that we've had > is that the crazing does > not 'move' significantly after the weld-on sets up and clamps are > removed. scott at van's/ > // > // > /Thanks,/ > // > /Vern Smith (#324)/ > > > > Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:16:38 -0500 > > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing > > > > > > You know, the common thread I see when people bring up crazing > > with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some > > clamps, but not very tight clamps on mine....I think I may have > > only used those squeeze clamps that you open with your hands. > > Either way, I didn't use tons of pressure, just used them to > > hold position. I had no crazing. > > > > I'm starting to wonder if the people having crazing aren't > > maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps, or perhaps > > not spreading the force out enough on the windows. > > > > I'd say, pad the clamps, and don't clamp any tighter than > > necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to > > squeeze out excess glue, just position it. I don't > > know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem, > > but I do notice that in almost all cases, the person > > said it either crazed where the clamps were, or at least > > that they had used clamps. I'm betting this is the cause > > somehow. > > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > > > > > > Vernon Smith wrote: > > > Well folks I'm not a happy camper, > > > > > > Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is > > > crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So > > > here are my questions: > > > > > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? > > > > > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? > > > > > > 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > > > creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > > > doesn't keep creeping. > > > > > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no > problems > > > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > > > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks > > > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only > rubbing > > > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no > > > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit > > > sand paper. > > > > > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing > process. > > > At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he > > > has requested pictures. > > > > > > Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, > > > > > > Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2008
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Mineral spirits are recommended by one of the windscreen companies. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 3:29 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing Ahhhhhh!!!! You used rubbing alcohol!!! That's a definite no-no! There aren't that many things you can clean it with. Kerosene is one. There IS one thing that I used that I can't endorse, but can report on. During painting we used PPG DCX330 degreaser extensively in prep of things, INCLUDING all the window edges, and we tested it on the windshield scraps to make sure it wouldn't craze. So maybe that is an option. But yeah, NO SOLVENTS on the windshield for cleaning....that's definitely not a good idea. mild soap and water, maybe...but I'd be careful of anything else. kerosene obviously wouldn't be good pre-cleaning for paint....but might not be so bad pre-installation. Also, I'd leave any plastic on windows as long as possible. Tim Vernon Smith wrote: > > Hi Tim, > > I used the same hand type clamps as shown on your web site during > install of your window. All clamps were padded with layers of masking > tape. There is no sign of deflection of the acrylic during or after > clamping, but maybe hand springe clamps are not the best choice. The > thought that direct pressure on the Weld-on cause it to set off is an > interesting idea. > > I am in contact with IPS technical service (they manufacture Weld-on) > and they have the pictures also. It was suggested to try using a diluted > detergent (two drops on non ammonium based dish soap in gallon of water) > to clean the mating surfaces instead of the rubbing alcohol. Also there > may be a need to anneal the acrylic before installing to normalize the > internal stresses of the plastic. They also said Weld-On 10 was a good > choice for gluing acrylic to fiberglass. > > As for repair they are working on it & I will pass along anything I learn. > > Van's did get back with me and here is Scott's reply: > > /Vern, Thanks for the photos. This looks very similar to what we saw on > both of our RV-10's. > Spoke with the rest of the tech crew here and all input that we've had > is that the crazing does > not 'move' significantly after the weld-on sets up and clamps are > removed. scott at van's/ > // > // > /Thanks,/ > // > /Vern Smith (#324)/ > > > > Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:16:38 -0500 > > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing > > > > > > You know, the common thread I see when people bring up crazing > > with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some > > clamps, but not very tight clamps on mine....I think I may have > > only used those squeeze clamps that you open with your hands. > > Either way, I didn't use tons of pressure, just used them to > > hold position. I had no crazing. > > > > I'm starting to wonder if the people having crazing aren't > > maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps, or perhaps > > not spreading the force out enough on the windows. > > > > I'd say, pad the clamps, and don't clamp any tighter than > > necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to > > squeeze out excess glue, just position it. I don't > > know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem, > > but I do notice that in almost all cases, the person > > said it either crazed where the clamps were, or at least > > that they had used clamps. I'm betting this is the cause > > somehow. > > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > > > > > > Vernon Smith wrote: > > > Well folks I'm not a happy camper, > > > > > > Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is > > > crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So > > > here are my questions: > > > > > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? > > > > > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? > > > > > > 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > > > creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > > > doesn't keep creeping. > > > > > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no > problems > > > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > > > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks > > > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only > rubbing > > > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no > > > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit > > > sand paper. > > > > > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing > process. > > > At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he > > > has requested pictures. > > > > > > Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, > > > > > > Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 11, 2008
I work with acrylics every day in my job as an engineer in the medical device industry. Acrylics in general can stand stress, or exposure to alcohol (or other solvents) but not at the same time. They, like many plastics, are subject to a phenomenom known as "stress cracking", which starts as crazing. It is caused by the material having stress (either molded in or induced by a load, such as a clamp) while being exposed to a chemical, and the result is a crack at a stress far lower than would normally cause a crack to start. The good news is that once the solvent and/or the stress is removed, the crazing stops and is not likely to spread, so if the crazing doesn't show, you probably won't have to replace the windshield. Jack Phillips #40610 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:29 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing Ahhhhhh!!!! You used rubbing alcohol!!! That's a definite no-no! There aren't that many things you can clean it with. Kerosene is one. There IS one thing that I used that I can't endorse, but can report on. During painting we used PPG DCX330 degreaser extensively in prep of things, INCLUDING all the window edges, and we tested it on the windshield scraps to make sure it wouldn't craze. So maybe that is an option. But yeah, NO SOLVENTS on the windshield for cleaning....that's definitely not a good idea. mild soap and water, maybe...but I'd be careful of anything else. kerosene obviously wouldn't be good pre-cleaning for paint....but might not be so bad pre-installation. Also, I'd leave any plastic on windows as long as possible. Tim Vernon Smith wrote: > > Hi Tim, > > I used the same hand type clamps as shown on your web site during > install of your window. All clamps were padded with layers of masking > tape. There is no sign of deflection of the acrylic during or after > clamping, but maybe hand springe clamps are not the best choice. The > thought that direct pressure on the Weld-on cause it to set off is an > interesting idea. > > I am in contact with IPS technical service (they manufacture Weld-on) > and they have the pictures also. It was suggested to try using a diluted > detergent (two drops on non ammonium based dish soap in gallon of water) > to clean the mating surfaces instead of the rubbing alcohol. Also there > may be a need to anneal the acrylic before installing to normalize the > internal stresses of the plastic. They also said Weld-On 10 was a good > choice for gluing acrylic to fiberglass. > > As for repair they are working on it & I will pass along anything I learn. > > Van's did get back with me and here is Scott's reply: > > /Vern, Thanks for the photos. This looks very similar to what we saw on > both of our RV-10's. > Spoke with the rest of the tech crew here and all input that we've had > is that the crazing does > not 'move' significantly after the weld-on sets up and clamps are > removed. scott at van's/ > // > // > /Thanks,/ > // > /Vern Smith (#324)/ > > > > Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:16:38 -0500 > > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing > > > > > > You know, the common thread I see when people bring up crazing > > with window installation is the use of clamps. I did use some > > clamps, but not very tight clamps on mine....I think I may have > > only used those squeeze clamps that you open with your hands. > > Either way, I didn't use tons of pressure, just used them to > > hold position. I had no crazing. > > > > I'm starting to wonder if the people having crazing aren't > > maybe using a bit more pressure on their clamps, or perhaps > > not spreading the force out enough on the windows. > > > > I'd say, pad the clamps, and don't clamp any tighter than > > necessary to hold the window in position. Don't try to > > squeeze out excess glue, just position it. I don't > > know WHY clamping with pressure would add to the problem, > > but I do notice that in almost all cases, the person > > said it either crazed where the clamps were, or at least > > that they had used clamps. I'm betting this is the cause > > somehow. > > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > > > > > > Vernon Smith wrote: > > > Well folks I'm not a happy camper, > > > > > > Just finished installing my windshield with Weld-on 10, and there is > > > crazing where some clamps were on the sides, photo & details below. So > > > here are my questions: > > > > > > 1: How common is crazing at the glue joint? > > > > > > 1: If left as is will the crazing run across the window? > > > > > > 2: Is there anything (other than replacement) that will keep it from > > > creeping? The crazing is small and can easily be hidden as long as it > > > doesn't keep creeping. > > > > > > The fine print: I have installed all the other windows with no > problems > > > using foam blocks and straps to clamp it in place. The windshield was > > > installed at 80 degrees. Main pressure was from a strap & foam blocks > > > with additional clamps on sides (the area of the crazing.) Only > rubbing > > > alcohol was used for cleaning. Edges sanded completely smooth with no > > > nick or scratches. The gluing surfaces were roughed up with 240 grit > > > sand paper. > > > > > > The crazing was noticed 1 1/2 hours after I started the gluing > process. > > > At which time I removed the side clamps. And called Scott at Van's, he > > > has requested pictures. > > > > > > Any help or suggestion would be appreciated, > > > > > > Vern Smith (#324 finishing sort of) > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fire rated foam insulation
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 12, 2008
I came across a fire rated expanding foam insulation that sounds like it might work for those who wish they had insulated their floors. It's called Abesco FP200 and it sounds like it would work. The biggest gripe from folks who have used it is that it doesn't expand as much as they expect - a good thing for us. Here is a spec sheet: http://images.cableorganizer.com/abesco-FP200/Abesco%20FP200%20FR%20Expanding%20Foam%20(DS6).pdf John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3948#203948 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2008
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Vern, I had the same problem when I installed my windshield. Decided it was going to be far easier to replace the windshield right away and risk having problems after fairing and paint and glad I did. When I started knocking the bad windshield out it cracked quite readily from those crazed areas. Based on talks with a buddy of mine who's blown several of bubble canopies we suspect the "problem" windshields are being blown at a slightly lower temperature or are being allowed to cool faster after blowing. Perry Casson C-FMHP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 12, 2008
I did get an answer from the tech group at IPS the makers of Weld-On10 abou t possible repairs. They don't recommend using Weld-On 3 ( a capillary acti on cement) for surface cracks/crazing as it can make the cracks worse. Only other idea they had was try removing the cracks mechanically with somethin g like Micro-Mesh or leave them alone. So there you have the options: 1. Leave them alone 2. Try buffing them out 3. Replace the window Again I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts and encouragement. vern > Date: Fri=2C 12 Sep 2008 08:57:15 -0600> From: pcasson(at)sasktel.net> Subje ct: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > --> RV1 0-List message posted by: Perry Casson > > Vern=2C > > I had the same problem when I installed my windshield. Decided it was goin g> to be far easier to replace the windshield right away and risk having> p roblems after fairing and paint and glad I did. When I started knocking> th e bad windshield out it cracked quite readily from those crazed areas.> Bas ed on talks with a buddy of mine who's blown several of bubble canopies> we suspect the "problem" windshields are being blown at a slightly lower> tem perature or are being allowed to cool faster after blowing.> > Perry Casson > C-FMHP > _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5 50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 12, 2008
I'd be exceptionally cautious about using this site as a guide for what to put on my windshield: > http://www.ridoutplastics.com/plexiglas-chemical-resistance.html For example, they rate ammonium hydroxide as "excellent". John > > > Not sure exactly what type of "plastic" our windows are made of, but > the list at the link below gives the effects of using various > solvents/substances on acrylic plexiglass and I figure ours is > pretty close. It's a pretty inclusive list, and I used it as a > guide for figuring out what substances to avoid (anything with an > "N" in both columns). Isopropyl alcohol is not so good. Ethyl > alcohol is better if you can find it without any additives. > http://www.ridoutplastics.com/plexiglas-chemical-resistance.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 12, 2008
Sorry to hear of your crazing Vern. I appreciate this thread and the responses on what to do and not do to install the windows without crazing or other issues it will serve me well when I go to do them myself. Thanks all for the insight! Pascal From: Vernon Smith Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 11:47 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing I did get an answer from the tech group at IPS the makers of Weld-On10 about possible repairs. They don't recommend using Weld-On 3 ( a capillary action cement) for surface cracks/crazing as it can make the cracks worse. Only other idea they had was try removing the cracks mechanically with something like Micro-Mesh or leave them alone. So there you have the options: 1. Leave them alone 2. Try buffing them out 3. Replace the window Again I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts and encouragement. vern ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- > Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 08:57:15 -0600 > From: pcasson(at)sasktel.net > Subject: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Vern, > > I had the same problem when I installed my windshield. Decided it was going > to be far easier to replace the windshield right away and risk having > problems after fairing and paint and glad I did. When I started knocking > the bad windshield out it cracked quite readily from those crazed areas. > Based on talks with a buddy of mine who's blown several of bubble canopies > we suspect the "problem" windshields are being blown at a slightly lower > temperature or are being allowed to cool faster after blowing. > > Perry Casson > C-FMHP > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. Learn Now ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing
Date: Sep 10, 2008
I would like to talk to Dick. I was at his home/hangar for a Minnesota Wing meeting last winter when the FADEC guy was the speaker. I did not get a chance to look at Dick's airplane. BTW, thanks for the fuel labels. Your check is enroute. Regards, David Maib 40559 On Sep 10, 2008, at 6:57 AM, gary wrote: Dick Nordquist from the Lino Air park made metal fairings for everything on his 6. He can tell you the good and the bad. Let me know if you want contact info. Gary Specketer 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum Windshield Fairing Has anyone tried fabricating an aluminum windshield front fairing instead of the fiberglass? I seem to remember seeing one, but cannot find anything in the archives. I have access to some pretty sophisticated metal forming equipment, so the thought crossed my mind.............. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3503#203503 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: GPS Antenna template
Date: Sep 13, 2008
I haven't purchased my IFR GPS yet but would like to fashion a doubler plate for the antenna. Does anyone have a detailed drawing of the antenna that comes with the GNS430W unit? I have the antenna that comes with the Apollo GX-65 GPS/COM. Are the mounting holes the same? If I use that to drill my holes will the WAAS antenna bolt up ok? Thanks, -Ben Westfall ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS Antenna template
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2008
rv10(at)sinkrate.com wrote: > I havent purchased my IFR GPS yet but would like to fashion a doubler plate for the antenna. Does anyone have a detailed drawing of the antenna that comes with the GNS430W unit? > > I have the antenna that comes with the Apollo GX-65 GPS/COM. Are the mounting holes the same? If I use that to drill my holes will the WAAS antenna bolt up ok? > > Thanks, > > -Ben Westfall > The GPS antenna I received with my 430W was a GA35. I have attached a copy of the installation sheet that came with the antenna. Hope this helps. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4159#204159 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ga35a_669.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: MT vs Whirlwind
Date: Sep 13, 2008
Well I am at the Reno Air aces. I was talking to American Propeller / Eagle Engines (They did the engine and prop for our Saratoga) They were recommending the Whirlwind over the MT for the RV-10 due to the fact the Whirlwind is all Carbon fiber composite prop not Wood/composite. Has any one in the RV-10 world use or have a Whirlwind prop. I would like to more info on this. Thanks John G. Cumins 40864 Emp. Kit Rudder ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MT vs Whirlwind
Date: Sep 13, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Whirlwind customer service should be thoroughly researched before spending the money. They would not repair a three blade Whirlwind system that needed some attention. It was sold to a hobbyist to be shortened and mounted on an airboat. Went with the MT 3 blade. Yes the MT has a wood (dampening) core. Don't ask me how I know. One of the big advantages of a composite vs. metal prop is the range of repairs that an owner/mechanic can do and the extended life of the product. American Propeller does some damned fine paint jobs on Aero props. I can give you a dozen painted three blade composites and not one will be a Whirlwind. YMMV John Cox 40600 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 4:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: MT vs Whirlwind Well I am at the Reno Air aces. I was talking to American Propeller / Eagle Engines (They did the engine and prop for our Saratoga) They were recommending the Whirlwind over the MT for the RV-10 due to the fact the Whirlwind is all Carbon fiber composite prop not Wood/composite. Has any one in the RV-10 world use or have a Whirlwind prop. I would like to more info on this. Thanks John G. Cumins 40864 Emp. Kit Rudder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: MT vs Whirlwind
Any word on Aerocomposite,(besides pricey) that a few RV10 owners selected? On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 5:50 PM, John Cox wrote: > Whirlwind customer service should be thoroughly researched before spending > the money. They would not repair a three blade Whirlwind system that needed > some attention. It was sold to a hobbyist to be shortened and mounted on an > airboat. Went with the MT 3 blade. Yes the MT has a wood (dampening) > core. Don't ask me how I know. > > > One of the big advantages of a composite vs. metal prop is the range of > repairs that an owner/mechanic can do and the extended life of the product. > American Propeller does some damned fine paint jobs on Aero props. I can > give you a dozen painted three blade composites and not one will be a > Whirlwind. > > > YMMV > > > John Cox > > 40600 > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 4:52 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: MT vs Whirlwind > > > Well I am at the Reno Air aces. I was talking to American Propeller / Eagle > Engines (They did the engine and prop for our Saratoga) They were > recommending the Whirlwind over the MT for the RV-10 due to the fact the > Whirlwind is all Carbon fiber composite prop not Wood/composite. > > > Has any one in the RV-10 world use or have a Whirlwind prop. > > > I would like to more info on this. > > > Thanks > > > John G. Cumins > > 40864 Emp. Kit Rudder > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MT vs Whirlwind
Date: Sep 13, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
There are a dozen testimonials lurking online. I count six with custom paint jobs flying right now. My collection of painted and flying RV-10s is getting downright exciting. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 7:38 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT vs Whirlwind Any word on Aerocomposite,(besides pricey) that a few RV10 owners selected? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewall penetrations - electrical
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 14, 2008
I see where some of the already built 10's have a really cool "firesleeve" that wires go through on the firewall. It looks like a tube with a flange on the bottom. The flange attaches to the firewall. The tube allows an excellent air and fire seal. Where do I get these??? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4213#204213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2008
From: Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Door Seals - Again
I found that when I installed the Vans seals per the illustration (Page 45-17, figure 2) the door fit was negatively impacted by the seal. Both doors now stuck up above the cabin lid. I ripped out the seals and replaced them with new Van's seals, but this time I placed the seal so that the lower edge of the seal flange fit snugly against the door wall (all the way down, in figure 2). During cure, the Van's seals were held in place with pieces of mixing stick (reduced in width). This worked much better. Photos attached. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction McGANN, Ron wrote: > > The Vans standard door seal is glued in place rather than rivetted. My > doors sat a little proud after installation of the seal. I'm with > Michael S. - I did not report the condition to Vans and just worked the > cabin top/door intersection to smooth the fit. Just another issue with > the (less than fun) construction of the doors. I have also noticed that > I have contacted Vans on build issues much less frequently during the > finishing activities, deferring to the collective experience of the > list. But I am surprised that Van does not recognise the weaknesses in > the door design compared to the rest of the kit. > > Cheers > Ron > 187 painting > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike > Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2008 7:23 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again > > > I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans > is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed > the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little > complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the > lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you > need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the > rivet ends rattling around inside the door. > > I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible > Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com > > He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who > have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin > top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189 > > > "Warning: > The information contained in this email and any attached files is > confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended > recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any > attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email > in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been > taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, > however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the > sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus > checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to > your computer." > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
Date: Sep 14, 2008
I got mine a year or so ago from: EPM.AV Corp www.epm-avcorp.com 195 N. 700W. Escalante, Utah 84726 (435)826-4601 The URL did not work for me today - you may want to try the phone ... John 40458 On Sep 14, 2008, at 4:39 AM, AirMike wrote: > > I see where some of the already built 10's have a really cool > "firesleeve" that wires go through on the firewall. It looks like a > tube with a flange on the bottom. The flange attaches to the > firewall. The tube allows an excellent air and fire seal. > > Where do I get these??? > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4213#204213 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Hello fellow -10r's, I think there has been way too much made of gluing in windows, crazing, alt ernative glues, etc. I was scared to death to do mine after all the posts. It was a learning process, but didn't go nearly as bad as I expected .... . So here is what I did - take it or leave it: True: Weld-on is some of the gooiest stuff I have ever worked with...worse than pro-seal. The big problem is that it likes to 'string'...and it gets everywhere...just like pro-seal, it can jump 10 feet Put the window where you want it. Drill holes and cleco and fender washer the window in place. This does NOT put a lot of pressure on the window. It DOES allow the window to spring out to the exact shape of the canopy. T his is a GOOD thing. Draw a line with one of your kids Crayola washable markers (fine line) on t he inside. Take the window out. Use Black electrical tape to seal the window up to th e Crayola marker line. Get the seal nice and smooth and nice and tight to the line. Then come back over the electrical tape with BLUE tape. It doesn't have to get right to the edge of the electrical tape, but pretty close. I might e ven consider a second layer of blue tape. Do the same thing on the outside of the window...right out to the edge. IMPORTANT: Also blue tape a coupl e of layers on the outside of the fuselage around the window well. This wi ll be important to keep the Weld-on off the fuselage as you glue the window s in. YES - blue tape is expensive - but don't scrimp here. Get a 2 or 3" wide band of tape around the wells. Sand the inside flange with sandpaper - clean with ISOPROPYL alcohol from t he DRUG STORE - get the purest stuff they have. Remember not to leave it o pen as I it will absorb moisture from the air. I'm not sure that it matter s in this case, but I like the stuff to be as potent as possible for future uses. To glue in the window have 2 buddies over to help! One will be inside the plane, the other on the outside. Smear the mixed Weld-on 10 on the flange. Mine was somewhat runny.... It w ill try and run on you. MOVE FAST!!! Mine set in FAR less than the 20 min ute pot-life it is supposed to have. Gently set the window in place. DO NOT PRESS IT IN! If you do, the glue w ill squeeze out when you press in, the window will then 'spring' back to th e cleco and fender washers - leaving a big air pocket where the glue squeez ed out. Some of this is just plain going to happen. I will talk about tha t later. Have Buddy number 2 start clecoing and fender washering the windo w. Hit the four corners, and a few other places, then grab pliers, clecos, and washers and get them in. Don't delay. You want time to clean up and work with this stuff before it sets. The glue is going to be a mess! Have blue shop towels and a couple of plas tic resin spreaders handy. I took a couple spreaders to my band saw and cu t a couple of varying widths.. These are plastic and won't scratch the win dow. The also are stiff enough to scrape the excess glue off. Buddy numbe r 1 will be inside, scraping any excess off as it squeezes out. If you don 't have someone inside, this stuff will drip on you fuselage interior and w on't be easy to clean up or sand off later. If you did a good job of taping, you will be scraping the extra glue off th e BLUE TAPE - inside and out. Keep in mind, on the outside, you will have to scrape around the clecos and fender washers. Get the bulk off quickly. Next - again, moving very fast - pull the first layer of blue tape off. Th is will get the bulk of extra glue off and away from the plane. Have a big waste basket or paper bag nearby...because just like pro-seal - this stuff can jump 10 feet and get on anything and everything. On the outside of th e plane, you will have your extra buddy pull a cleco - you pull the tape pa st the hole, then have him put the cleco right back in. It should now be s etting on the second layer of tape, or the electrical tape. Go all the way around the windows, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape, clean ing, peeling a layer of tape. By the time you are done, the glue will be V ERY solid. It won't be impossible to get off, but it won't be easy. I the n used a metal square tip knife, to get the final remnants off the window o n the inside and outside of the fuselage. By using clecos and fender washers, the clamp force is regulated or elimina ted if the window has sprung up to 'meet' the fender washer. I did not get ANY crazing at all...not even one place. My result was not perfect. I le arned the lesson of pushing the window in too far, having it spring back, a nd leave a big air pocket the hard way on the first window. I later came b ack with a tiny drill....used a light and drilled two holes, then used a sy ringe with no needle to fill the sir pockets with weld-on. (I have extra w eld-on since I had some that had expired and I ordered fresh for the main p rocess.) The cleco holes are now filled with epoxy and the high strength West System s Adhesive filler. You will never know that there was a hole there. My results are not perfect, but they are not bad. The real key is to move fast. We did this on a warm summer evening...and the Weld-on went to set i n a real hurry. These are my experiences - you can use them - laugh at them - or ignore the m. I just know that it worked pretty well for my building team. I'd be ha ppy to answer any questions as this one of the most intimidating steps in t he whole kit. Pete #40100 - plan to have it Osh next year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 14, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Congrats on your success. Looking forward to seeing it at OSH '09. John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James, Peter [SD] Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 8:59 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing Hello fellow -10r's, I think there has been way too much made of gluing in windows, crazing, alternative glues, etc. I was scared to death to do mine after all the posts. It was a learning process, but didn't go nearly as bad as I expected ..... So here is what I did - take it or leave it: True: Weld-on is some of the gooiest stuff I have ever worked with...worse than pro-seal. The big problem is that it likes to 'string'...and it gets everywhere...just like pro-seal, it can jump 10 feet Put the window where you want it. Drill holes and cleco and fender washer the window in place. This does NOT put a lot of pressure on the window. It DOES allow the window to spring out to the exact shape of the canopy. This is a GOOD thing. Draw a line with one of your kids Crayola washable markers (fine line) on the inside. Take the window out. Use Black electrical tape to seal the window up to the Crayola marker line. Get the seal nice and smooth and nice and tight to the line. Then come back over the electrical tape with BLUE tape. It doesn't have to get right to the edge of the electrical tape, but pretty close. I might even consider a second layer of blue tape. Do the same thing on the outside of the window...right out to the edge. IMPORTANT: Also blue tape a couple of layers on the outside of the fuselage around the window well. This will be important to keep the Weld-on off the fuselage as you glue the windows in. YES - blue tape is expensive - but don't scrimp here. Get a 2 or 3" wide band of tape around the wells. Sand the inside flange with sandpaper - clean with ISOPROPYL alcohol from the DRUG STORE - get the purest stuff they have. Remember not to leave it open as I it will absorb moisture from the air. I'm not sure that it matters in this case, but I like the stuff to be as potent as possible for future uses. To glue in the window have 2 buddies over to help! One will be inside the plane, the other on the outside. Smear the mixed Weld-on 10 on the flange. Mine was somewhat runny.... It will try and run on you. MOVE FAST!!! Mine set in FAR less than the 20 minute pot-life it is supposed to have. Gently set the window in place. DO NOT PRESS IT IN! If you do, the glue will squeeze out when you press in, the window will then 'spring' back to the cleco and fender washers - leaving a big air pocket where the glue squeezed out. Some of this is just plain going to happen. I will talk about that later. Have Buddy number 2 start clecoing and fender washering the window. Hit the four corners, and a few other places, then grab pliers, clecos, and washers and get them in. Don't delay. You want time to clean up and work with this stuff before it sets. The glue is going to be a mess! Have blue shop towels and a couple of plastic resin spreaders handy. I took a couple spreaders to my band saw and cut a couple of varying widths.. These are plastic and won't scratch the window. The also are stiff enough to scrape the excess glue off. Buddy number 1 will be inside, scraping any excess off as it squeezes out. If you don't have someone inside, this stuff will drip on you fuselage interior and won't be easy to clean up or sand off later. If you did a good job of taping, you will be scraping the extra glue off the BLUE TAPE - inside and out. Keep in mind, on the outside, you will have to scrape around the clecos and fender washers. Get the bulk off quickly. Next - again, moving very fast - pull the first layer of blue tape off. This will get the bulk of extra glue off and away from the plane. Have a big waste basket or paper bag nearby...because just like pro-seal - this stuff can jump 10 feet and get on anything and everything. On the outside of the plane, you will have your extra buddy pull a cleco - you pull the tape past the hole, then have him put the cleco right back in. It should now be setting on the second layer of tape, or the electrical tape. Go all the way around the windows, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape. By the time you are done, the glue will be VERY solid. It won't be impossible to get off, but it won't be easy. I then used a metal square tip knife, to get the final remnants off the window on the inside and outside of the fuselage. By using clecos and fender washers, the clamp force is regulated or eliminated if the window has sprung up to 'meet' the fender washer. I did not get ANY crazing at all...not even one place. My result was not perfect. I learned the lesson of pushing the window in too far, having it spring back, and leave a big air pocket the hard way on the first window. I later came back with a tiny drill....used a light and drilled two holes, then used a syringe with no needle to fill the sir pockets with weld-on. (I have extra weld-on since I had some that had expired and I ordered fresh for the main process.) The cleco holes are now filled with epoxy and the high strength West Systems Adhesive filler. You will never know that there was a hole there. My results are not perfect, but they are not bad. The real key is to move fast. We did this on a warm summer evening...and the Weld-on went to set in a real hurry. These are my experiences - you can use them - laugh at them - or ignore them. I just know that it worked pretty well for my building team. I'd be happy to answer any questions as this one of the most intimidating steps in the whole kit. Pete #40100 - plan to have it Osh next year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wndwlkr1228(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
A search on AOL.com resulted in a notice that the President of EPM-AV corp was out and the business was closed. However, Aircraft Spruce sell three sizes of the firewall penetration sleeves. SafeAir1 also sells a kit. In a message dated 9/14/2008 7:59:18 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, johnag5b(at)cableone.net writes: EPM.AV Corp **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLIUDVINAITIS(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
HEY PETE, SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAD VERY GOOD EXIPERENCE, MAY BE YOU CAN LET US KNOW WHAT CLEANER OR PREPING YOU USED BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR WINDOWS? I'M REAL C LOSE TO INSTALLING MY WINDOWS. THANKS DAVE LUDD NJ #40466 In a message dated 9/14/2008 11:04:45 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Peter.James(at)sprint.com writes: Hello fellow -10r=99s, I think there has been way too much made of gluing in windows, crazing, alternative glues, etc. I was scared to death to do mine after all the pos ts. It was a learning process, but didn=99t go nearly as bad as I expecte d .. So here is what I did =93 take it or leave it: True: Weld-on is some of the gooiest stuff I have ever worked with worse than pro-seal. The big problem is that it likes to =98string =99and it gets everywherejust like pro-seal, it can jump 10 feet Put the window where you want it. Drill holes and cleco and fender washer the window in place. This does NOT put a lot of pressure on the window. I t DOES allow the window to spring out to the exact shape of the canopy. This is a GOOD thing. Draw a line with one of your kids Crayola washable markers (fine line) on the inside. Take the window out. Use Black electrical tape to seal the window up to th e Crayola marker line. Get the seal nice and smooth and nice and tight to th e line. Then come back over the electrical tape with BLUE tape. It doesn=99t have to get right to the edge of the electrical tape, but pretty close. I might ev en consider a second layer of blue tape. Do the same thing on the outside of the windowright out to the edge. IMPORTANT: Also blue tape a cou ple of layers on the outside of the fuselage around the window well. This will be important to keep the Weld-on off the fuselage as you glue the windows in. YES =93 blue tape is expensive =93 but don=99t scrimp here. Get a 2 or 3=9D wide band of tape around the wells. Sand the inside flange with sandpaper =93 clean with ISOPROPYL alcoho l from the DRUG STORE =93 get the purest stuff they have. Remember not to l eave it open as I it will absorb moisture from the air. I=99m not sure that it ma tters in this case, but I like the stuff to be as potent as possible for future use s. To glue in the window have 2 buddies over to help! One will be inside the plane, the other on the outside. Smear the mixed Weld-on 10 on the flange. Mine was somewhat runny . It will try and run on you. MOVE FAST!!! Mine set in FAR less than the 20 minute pot-life it is supposed to have. Gently set the window in place. DO NOT PRESS IT IN! If you do, the glue will squeeze out when you press in, the window will then =98spring =99 back to the cleco and fender washers =93 leaving a big air pocket where the glue squeezed out. Some of this is just plain going to happen. I will talk about that later. Have Buddy number 2 start clecoing and fender washering the window. Hit the four corners, and a few other places, then grab pliers, clecos, and washers and get them in. Don=99t delay. You want time to clean up a nd work with this stuff before it sets. The glue is going to be a mess! Have blue shop towels and a couple of plastic resin spreaders handy. I took a couple spreaders to my band saw an d cut a couple of varying widths.. These are plastic and won=99t scratch the window. The also are stiff enough to scrape the excess glue off. Buddy number 1 will be inside, scraping any excess off as it squeezes out. If you don =99t have someone inside, this stuff will drip on you fuselage interior and won =99t be easy to clean up or sand off later. If you did a good job of taping, you will be scraping the extra glue off th e BLUE TAPE =93 inside and out. Keep in mind, on the outside, you will have to scrape around the clecos and fender washers. Get the bulk off quickly. Next =93 again, moving very fast =93 pull the first layer of bl ue tape off. This will get the bulk of extra glue off and away from the plane. Have a b ig waste basket or paper bag nearbybecause just like pro-seal =93 this stuff can jump 10 feet and get on anything and everything. On the outside of the plane, you will have your extra buddy pull a cleco =93 you pull the t ape past the hole, then have him put the cleco right back in. It should now be setting on the second layer of tape, or the electrical tape. Go all the way around the windows, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape. By the time you are done, the glue will be VERY solid. It won=99t be impossible to get off, but it won=99t be easy. I then used a metal square tip knife, to get the final remnants off the window on the inside and outside of the fuselage. By using clecos and fender washers, the clamp force is regulated or eliminated if the window has sprung up to =98meet=99 the fender washer. I did not get ANY crazing at allnot even one place. My result was not perfect. I learned the lesson of pushing the window in too far, having it spring back, and lea ve a big air pocket the hard way on the first window. I later came back with a tiny drill.used a light and drilled two holes, then used a syringe with no needle to fill the sir pockets with weld-on. (I have extra weld-on since I had some that had expired and I ordered fresh for the main process.) The cleco holes are now filled with epoxy and the high strength West System s Adhesive filler. You will never know that there was a hole there. My results are not perfect, but they are not bad. The real key is to move fast. We did this on a warm summer eveningand the Weld-on went to set in a real hurry. These are my experiences =93 you can use them =93 laugh at them =93 or ignore them. I just know that it worked pretty well for my building team. I =99d be happy to answer any questions as this one of the most intimidating steps in the whole kit. Pete #40100 =93 plan to have it Osh next year. (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 14, 2008
IMHO you do not want to clean your windows prior to install. Leave the protective film on all but the working edge and prep only the working edge. If you clean the whole window you risk contaminating the edge with things that reduce the adhesion. I would think this is true no matter if you use weld-on, epoxy sikaflex or what ever. Most cleaners leave behind some residue, and I never wanted to chance that it would effect the bond. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 1:24 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing HEY PETE, SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAD VERY GOOD EXIPERENCE, MAY BE YOU CAN LET US KNOW WHAT CLEANER OR PREPING YOU USED BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR WINDOWS? I'M REAL CLOSE TO INSTALLING MY WINDOWS. THANKS DAVE LUDD NJ #40466 In a message dated 9/14/2008 11:04:45 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Peter.James(at)sprint.com writes: Hello fellow -10r's, I think there has been way too much made of gluing in windows, crazing, alternative glues, etc. I was scared to death to do mine after all the posts. It was a learning process, but didn't go nearly as bad as I expected ... So here is what I did - take it or leave it: True: Weld-on is some of the gooiest stuff I have ever worked with.worse than pro-seal. The big problem is that it likes to 'string'.and it gets everywhere.just like pro-seal, it can jump 10 feet Put the window where you want it. Drill holes and cleco and fender washer the window in place. This does NOT put a lot of pressure on the window. It DOES allow the window to spring out to the exact shape of the canopy. This is a GOOD thing. Draw a line with one of your kids Crayola washable markers (fine line) on the inside. Take the window out. Use Black electrical tape to seal the window up to the Crayola marker line. Get the seal nice and smooth and nice and tight to the line. Then come back over the electrical tape with BLUE tape. It doesn't have to get right to the edge of the electrical tape, but pretty close. I might even consider a second layer of blue tape. Do the same thing on the outside of the window.right out to the edge. IMPORTANT: Also blue tape a couple of layers on the outside of the fuselage around the window well. This will be important to keep the Weld-on off the fuselage as you glue the windows in. YES - blue tape is expensive - but don't scrimp here. Get a 2 or 3" wide band of tape around the wells. Sand the inside flange with sandpaper - clean with ISOPROPYL alcohol from the DRUG STORE - get the purest stuff they have. Remember not to leave it open as I it will absorb moisture from the air. I'm not sure that it matters in this case, but I like the stuff to be as potent as possible for future uses. To glue in the window have 2 buddies over to help! One will be inside the plane, the other on the outside. Smear the mixed Weld-on 10 on the flange. Mine was somewhat runny.. It will try and run on you. MOVE FAST!!! Mine set in FAR less than the 20 minute pot-life it is supposed to have. Gently set the window in place. DO NOT PRESS IT IN! If you do, the glue will squeeze out when you press in, the window will then 'spring' back to the cleco and fender washers - leaving a big air pocket where the glue squeezed out. Some of this is just plain going to happen. I will talk about that later. Have Buddy number 2 start clecoing and fender washering the window. Hit the four corners, and a few other places, then grab pliers, clecos, and washers and get them in. Don't delay. You want time to clean up and work with this stuff before it sets. The glue is going to be a mess! Have blue shop towels and a couple of plastic resin spreaders handy. I took a couple spreaders to my band saw and cut a couple of varying widths.. These are plastic and won't scratch the window. The also are stiff enough to scrape the excess glue off. Buddy number 1 will be inside, scraping any excess off as it squeezes out. If you don't have someone inside, this stuff will drip on you fuselage interior and won't be easy to clean up or sand off later. If you did a good job of taping, you will be scraping the extra glue off the BLUE TAPE - inside and out. Keep in mind, on the outside, you will have to scrape around the clecos and fender washers. Get the bulk off quickly. Next - again, moving very fast - pull the first layer of blue tape off. This will get the bulk of extra glue off and away from the plane. Have a big waste basket or paper bag nearby.because just like pro-seal - this stuff can jump 10 feet and get on anything and everything. On the outside of the plane, you will have your extra buddy pull a cleco - you pull the tape past the hole, then have him put the cleco right back in. It should now be setting on the second layer of tape, or the electrical tape. Go all the way around the windows, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape. By the time you are done, the glue will be VERY solid. It won't be impossible to get off, but it won't be easy. I then used a metal square tip knife, to get the final remnants off the window on the inside and outside of the fuselage. By using clecos and fender washers, the clamp force is regulated or eliminated if the window has sprung up to 'meet' the fender washer. I did not get ANY crazing at all.not even one place. My result was not perfect. I learned the lesson of pushing the window in too far, having it spring back, and leave a big air pocket the hard way on the first window. I later came back with a tiny drill..used a light and drilled two holes, then used a syringe with no needle to fill the sir pockets with weld-on. (I have extra weld-on since I had some that had expired and I ordered fresh for the main process.) The cleco holes are now filled with epoxy and the high strength West Systems Adhesive filler. You will never know that there was a hole there. My results are not perfect, but they are not bad. The real key is to move fast. We did this on a warm summer evening.and the Weld-on went to set in a real hurry. These are my experiences - you can use them - laugh at them - or ignore them. I just know that it worked pretty well for my building team. I'd be happy to answer any questions as this one of the most intimidating steps in the whole kit. Pete #40100 - plan to have it Osh next year. ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav igator?RV10-List .matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution _____ Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new <http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014> fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Seat Belt support Bracket
Date: Sep 14, 2008
I'm unfortunately slow to the fight, but I was wondering how folks are mounting these? My machine is painted so I don't really want to mount it from the outside skin. Seems like there's not too much load on the bracket (assuming nobody tugs on the straps, which is probably not a valid assumption) so perhaps just use sheet metal screws on the inside? Thanks, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:06 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket I would like one of the brackets, please. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on how I installed mine, just give me a call. Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 #40636 Almost ready to pour fuel to it! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Could a product like this http://www.intropc.com/item-25742-3m-auto-glass-urethane-windshield-adhes ive-medium-viscosity-3m8693.html be used to install the windows? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: gary To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 1:21 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing IMHO you do not want to clean your windows prior to install. Leave the protective film on all but the working edge and prep only the working edge. If you clean the whole window you risk contaminating the edge with things that reduce the adhesion. I would think this is true no matter if you use weld-on, epoxy sikaflex or what ever. Most cleaners leave behind some residue, and I never wanted to chance that it would effect the bond. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 1:24 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 & crazing HEY PETE, SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAD VERY GOOD EXIPERENCE, MAY BE YOU CAN LET US KNOW WHAT CLEANER OR PREPING YOU USED BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR WINDOWS? I'M REAL CLOSE TO INSTALLING MY WINDOWS. THANKS DAVE LUDD NJ #40466 In a message dated 9/14/2008 11:04:45 A.M. Central Daylight Time, Peter.James(at)sprint.com writes: Hello fellow -10r's, I think there has been way too much made of gluing in windows, crazing, alternative glues, etc. I was scared to death to do mine after all the posts. It was a learning process, but didn't go nearly as bad as I expected ... So here is what I did - take it or leave it: True: Weld-on is some of the gooiest stuff I have ever worked with.worse than pro-seal. The big problem is that it likes to 'string'.and it gets everywhere.just like pro-seal, it can jump 10 feet Put the window where you want it. Drill holes and cleco and fender washer the window in place. This does NOT put a lot of pressure on the window. It DOES allow the window to spring out to the exact shape of the canopy. This is a GOOD thing. Draw a line with one of your kids Crayola washable markers (fine line) on the inside. Take the window out. Use Black electrical tape to seal the window up to the Crayola marker line. Get the seal nice and smooth and nice and tight to the line. Then come back over the electrical tape with BLUE tape. It doesn't have to get right to the edge of the electrical tape, but pretty close. I might even consider a second layer of blue tape. Do the same thing on the outside of the window.right out to the edge. IMPORTANT: Also blue tape a couple of layers on the outside of the fuselage around the window well. This will be important to keep the Weld-on off the fuselage as you glue the windows in. YES - blue tape is expensive - but don't scrimp here. Get a 2 or 3" wide band of tape around the wells. Sand the inside flange with sandpaper - clean with ISOPROPYL alcohol from the DRUG STORE - get the purest stuff they have. Remember not to leave it open as I it will absorb moisture from the air. I'm not sure that it matters in this case, but I like the stuff to be as potent as possible for future uses. To glue in the window have 2 buddies over to help! One will be inside the plane, the other on the outside. Smear the mixed Weld-on 10 on the flange. Mine was somewhat runny.. It will try and run on you. MOVE FAST!!! Mine set in FAR less than the 20 minute pot-life it is supposed to have. Gently set the window in place. DO NOT PRESS IT IN! If you do, the glue will squeeze out when you press in, the window will then 'spring' back to the cleco and fender washers - leaving a big air pocket where the glue squeezed out. Some of this is just plain going to happen. I will talk about that later. Have Buddy number 2 start clecoing and fender washering the window. Hit the four corners, and a few other places, then grab pliers, clecos, and washers and get them in. Don't delay. You want time to clean up and work with this stuff before it sets. The glue is going to be a mess! Have blue shop towels and a couple of plastic resin spreaders handy. I took a couple spreaders to my band saw and cut a couple of varying widths.. These are plastic and won't scratch the window. The also are stiff enough to scrape the excess glue off. Buddy number 1 will be inside, scraping any excess off as it squeezes out. If you don't have someone inside, this stuff will drip on you fuselage interior and won't be easy to clean up or sand off later. If you did a good job of taping, you will be scraping the extra glue off the BLUE TAPE - inside and out. Keep in mind, on the outside, you will have to scrape around the clecos and fender washers. Get the bulk off quickly. Next - again, moving very fast - pull the first layer of blue tape off. This will get the bulk of extra glue off and away from the plane. Have a big waste basket or paper bag nearby.because just like pro-seal - this stuff can jump 10 feet and get on anything and everything. On the outside of the plane, you will have your extra buddy pull a cleco - you pull the tape past the hole, then have him put the cleco right back in. It should now be setting on the second layer of tape, or the electrical tape. Go all the way around the windows, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape, cleaning, peeling a layer of tape. By the time you are done, the glue will be VERY solid. It won't be impossible to get off, but it won't be easy. I then used a metal square tip knife, to get the final remnants off the window on the inside and outside of the fuselage. By using clecos and fender washers, the clamp force is regulated or eliminated if the window has sprung up to 'meet' the fender washer. I did not get ANY crazing at all.not even one place. My result was not perfect. I learned the lesson of pushing the window in too far, having it spring back, and leave a big air pocket the hard way on the first window. I later came back with a tiny drill..used a light and drilled two holes, then used a syringe with no needle to fill the sir pockets with weld-on. (I have extra weld-on since I had some that had expired and I ordered fresh for the main process.) The cleco holes are now filled with epoxy and the high strength West Systems Adhesive filler. You will never know that there was a hole there. My results are not perfect, but they are not bad. The real key is to move fast. We did this on a warm summer evening.and the Weld-on went to set in a real hurry. These are my experiences - you can use them - laugh at them - or ignore them. I just know that it worked pretty well for my building team. I'd be happy to answer any questions as this one of the most intimidating steps in the whole kit. Pete #40100 - plan to have it Osh next year. ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?RV10-List.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com://www.m atronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2008
I got mine from www.safeair1.com Excellent customer service from these folks. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4284#204284 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Sparling" <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: FAA Proposed Rule Changes
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Just my thoughts, hope it helps others who might be in the process of writing. _____ 4002 Oakridge Drive Crestwood, KY 40014 September 14, 2008 Miguel L. Vasconcelos Production and Airworthiness Division AIR-200, Room 815 800 Independence Ave., SW Washington, D.C. 20591 Reference: Proposed Policy changes regarding Certification of Amateur Built Aircraft. Dear Mr. Vasconcelos; I am a recreational aviation pilot who has built a Van's Aircraft RV-10 metal airplane, which was an educational experience for my whole family. Building this aircraft took 13 months and 9 days with the help of my wife and teenage daughters building with me full time. It was certificated in 2006 and we have flown it together all over the U.S. I will be purchasing another kit and building an airplane in the near future and am very concerned about the changes to the future 51% construction rules. I do not see a need to change the rules as they stand. This proposal is the typical response that takes place when a small percentage of individuals blatantly disregard the rules. Those types of individuals will always exist and the new rules will not prohibit their disregard. In any society, there will always be those who cross the line and the new rules will not be an exception. Those individuals who tempt fate will ultimately sponsor new and more stringent rules. The result of which, typifies treatment of the symptom and not the disease. Enforcement is the real solution, as without it, those who suffer are the ones adhering to the rules. My primary concern is that the complexities of this new policy will place significant new burdens on amateur aircraft builders and make them reluctant to participate in a market that has become an industry phenomenon. Those of us who have followed the regulations as they stand today are concerned that the daunting task of producing an airworthy craft will become secondary to a bureaucratic nightmare. This would not be in the best interest of the overall experimental market. In my lifetime, I have never witnessed a government agency's intervention actually promote the advancement of the free enterprise system. In fact, there is a basic premise that I have observed in terms of absolutes and that is; regulation is not the friend of free enterprise. Has the FAA considered the negative economic impact that these regulations could induce? It wouldn't be the first time that regulation killed or crippled an entire industry. It should be self evident that the overregulated commercial side of this industry has experienced this crippling effect. This is the primary reason the experimental market has had so much success. I fear that your proposed rule changes could have a far reaching and devastating effect on this market segment, i.e. the vendors, suppliers, and their employees and families. Please give this point of view the consideration it deserves and don't fix it if it's not broken. The rules worked well when the industry was in its infancy, they should work just as well now that it has matured. You will no doubt receive hundreds if not thousands of letters voicing concerns about this issue. Many will attempt to espouse the virtues of their changes to your proposed rules as they have already conceded that these changes are coming whether we speak out or not. I am of the belief that you are of an open mind, otherwise you would not have solicited our input. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity to submit my comments on this proposed policy change. Very Truly Yours, Jack H Sparling, Jr. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: FAA Proposed Rule Changes
Date: Sep 14, 2008
>From VAF. I read the postings by Van and the EAA about the NPRM. Vans shows why he's the man and most of us just gawkers: "As always, name-calling and vague gripes serve no purpose other than to help convince the FAA that we are a bunch of idiots." * The proposed rule has nothing to do with accommodating pro-built planes, even though some of us, maybe including me, think that should be allowed. Probably the FAA would need a directive from Congress to address that. So no point in mentioning such potential accommodation in a response. * Van again: "Unless the FAA sees a serious safety reason, they will not re-evaluate existing kits that have previously been found to meet the major portion rule." So most of us are good now. Of course we can still comment for the sake of future kit designs, but I see no problem for future builders of today's kits. * Aside from some relatively minor changes for clarity, the only change I'd like to see is a further definition of "fabrication" and percentage: by time? by task? Unlike the EAA and others, I think the further refinement of what constitutes an amateur built aircraft is welcome, or at the very least, simply not a big deal. I find it very unlikely that a legitimate amateur builder now will not be legit with these new rules. It might be a little more onerous documenting one's work, but I think better logging of work is to the good. * My guess is that in addition to wanting to halt the blatant pro-building, the FAA wants to head off a potential future problem: well-meaning amateur builders getting more and more pre-fabbed parts until only assembly, not fabrication, is done. I think such concern is fair and even forward-thinking, contrary to some stereotyped responses here. <http://www.vansairforce.com/community/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=255316> Reply With Quote ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Seat Belt support Bracket
--- On Sun, 9/14/08, Marcus Cooper wrote: From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)cableone.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket Date: Sunday, September 14, 2008, 11:52 AM I'm unfortunately slow to the fight, but I was wondering how folks are mounting these? My machine is painted so I don't really want to mount it from the outside skin. Seems like there's not too much load on the bracket (assuming nobody tugs on the straps, which is probably not a valid assumption) so perhaps just use sheet metal screws on the inside? Thanks, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:06 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket I would like one of the brackets, please. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on how I installed mine, just give me a call. Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 #40636 Almost ready to pour fuel to it! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Speed test today
Date: Sep 14, 2008
Got up today and ran a simple 4 course speed test. The GPS speed in the spreadsheet is GPS Ground Speed. Looks like 175.5 Knots..average. Looks like my indicated air speed may be a little low.. Any inputs? Rene' N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2008
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Speed test today
Rene, Awesome that you went out and did a couple of official runs! I plugged the numbers into Kevin Horton's speed spreadsheet, the 4-way version, here: http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=49 I get 175.6 for both runs. That just means that you maybe have 3.5 kts of error and when you report speed you will have to accommodate that. I am sure with a little playing you could improve the accuracy a small amount...maybe even try taking some aluminum tape and taping over your static ports with a nice clean circle sticker with a hole in the center, and by raising them you may get more accuracy....but at 3.5kts error I don't know that I'd invest a ton of time in it. Thanks also for adding all of the other data points in the spreadsheet too...that's the way to do it...record it all. From this I can look and get the idea of the conditions. Of course, to get max speed out of it, you'd fly a little lower, firewall the throttle and raise the RPM, and push that fuel flow up there a ways. But, most people will realize that the numbers you posted are just a good ROP higher-speed cruise number that you may get going x/c somewhere when you're not looking for max range. Very nice to see someone investing the time to ensure they know the accuracy of their systems. Good job! Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Rene wrote: > Got up today and ran a simple 4 course speed test. The GPS speed in the > spreadsheet is GPS Ground Speed. Looks like 175.5 Knots.average. > > > > Looks like my indicated air speed may be a little low > > > > Any inputs? > > > > Rene' > > N423CF Flying > > 801-721-6080 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2008
Subject: Clarification - Weld-on 10 & crazing
Hi folks, A couple of points of clarification: When I cut my windows and windshield, I left the plastic from the factory i ntact. I just peeled back the edges and inch or two, then used a knife sid eways to cut peeled back portion. I then used electrical tape to the edge of the window. I filled any gaps between the plastic and the electrical ta pe with blue tape. I drilled holes in the canopy, NOT the windows themselves. I didn't want t o risk cracking the window. There are many sizes of fender washers, do a c ouple of test fits to make sure you have some that are big enough. I had a couple of places that required a larger washer to reach the window. When you are done, many of the washers will have WELD-ON on them. In my origina l post, I didn't mention that when peeling and replacing clecos and washers , we sometimes flipped them over so that the weld-on that was on the washer didn't get onto the window. When finished, many of the washers will have left over weld-on on them. These are cheap and can be thrown away if they are beyond salvage. I sanded the edges and portion to be glued with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I then cleaned the edges and sanded portion with a blue Scott shop rag th at was DAMP with Isopropyl alcohol. It was not wet by any means. I don't think there was enough to soak into the Acrylic itself. I just wanted some thing to cut the greasy kids stuff fingerprints and the very fine dust off. I figured that any remaining dust or residual would be soaked into the we ld-on, much like a filler...and thus not have much effect. I was correct. Again, use alcohol at your own risk...as there are conflicting posts. I am just telling what worked for me. So far, so good. No crazing, but my windshield is not in yet either. Now I have another thing to worry about. ;- ) But based on my experience so f ar...I am not anticipating any problems. Chao! Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt support Bracket
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t 787 That is a very similar way that I used to attach my seat belt hangers. I used a piece of aluminum, put nut plates on one side and then milled out an area for the nut plates to fit inside the honeycomb area of the top. I then used pop rivets and epoxy to hold the aluminum to the ceiling. It makes if very easy to remove my lights or seat belt hanger if I need to replace of have a better idea. Scott Schmidt Cell 801-718-1277 scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ----- Original Message ---- From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 6:33:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket --- On Sun, 9/14/08, Marcus Cooper wrote: From: Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)cableone.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket Date: Sunday, September 14, 2008, 11:52 AM I'm unfortunately slow to the fight, but I was wondering how folks are mounting these? My machine is painted so I don't really want to mount it from the outside skin. Seems like there's not too much load on the bracket (assuming nobody tugs on the straps, which is probably not a valid assumption) so perhaps just use sheet metal screws on the inside? Thanks, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 2:06 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Belt support Bracket I would like one of the brackets, please. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Ok, it's been redesigned, punched out, tumbled, and ready to install. I will finish installing mine on Friday. They look great. Not trying to make money here, just taking advantage of my brothers equipment and I had promised 3 to RV10 guys in this area. We ran off 20, and 8 are already spoken for. $12 should cover the bracket and shipping. Any questions on how I installed mine, just give me a call. Don McDonald 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 #40636 Almost ready to pour fuel to it! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1090#201090 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2625c_159.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2008
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: CHP Stick Grips... company change
Just fyi. CH Stick Grips are no longer being made or supported by CH Products... Kevin Williamson (the original developer) bought out the molds and inventory from CHP after a change of ownership. I have the CS-8 Aircraft Grip and they are -nice-. Here's the new website and contact info: Tosten Manufacturing San Marcos, CA 92069 760-803-6034 http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com Regards, Jay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
Date: Sep 15, 2008
Just a quick update: I talked to Paul this morning; EPM.AV Corp is being reorganized due to incapacity of a partner. They think they will be open for business again in about a month, with an expanded product line. The phone # works, the website is down for now. They will announce the new company on VAF and, presumably, here. John 40458 On Sep 14, 2008, at 9:38 AM, Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com wrote: > A search on AOL.com resulted in a notice that the President of EPM- > AV corp was out and the business was closed. > > However, Aircraft Spruce sell three sizes of the firewall > penetration sleeves. SafeAir1 also sells a kit. > > In a message dated 9/14/2008 7:59:18 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, johnag5b(at)cableone.net > writes: > > I got mine a year or so ago from: > > EPM.AV Corp > www.epm-avcorp.com > 195 N. 700W. > Escalante, Utah 84726 > (435)826-4601 > > The URL did not work for me today - you may want to try the phone ... > John 40458 > > > Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus > the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 15, 2008
Thanks guys. But I only need 1/4" & 1/2" openings. The safe air is $47 - a bit pricey. Also it is only in .90" size opening - too large . I cannot see making a firewall hole any larger than the minimum necessary. Also, I cannot fine the "sleeves" on the spruce site. Anyone have the part numbers, and I do not mean the "eyeball type". Maybe I will just wait for the the EPV guy in Utah to reopen. Any other options? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4507#204507 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Clarification - Weld-on 10 & crazing
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 15, 2008
Excellent post. On the alcohol bit - what do you think of using mild detergent instead of alcohol to clean up the edges just before applying the glue? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4508#204508 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wndwlkr1228(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
Page 317 of the 2008 catalog. Part number 09-00977 for 1/2 inch but it is even more pricey. George Stanley RV-6A SLOW build-14 years In a message dated 9/15/2008 8:59:54 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" Thanks guys. But I only need 1/4" & 1/2" openings. The safe air is $47 - a bit pricey. Also it is only in .90" size opening - too large . I cannot see making a firewall hole any larger than the minimum necessary. Also, I cannot fine the "sleeves" on the spruce site. Anyone have the part numbers, and I do not mean the "eyeball type". Maybe I will just wait for the the EPV guy in Utah to reopen. Any other options? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4507#204507 **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Clarification - Weld-on 10 & crazing
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Absolutely not. It will contaminate the edge and interfere with the bond. IMHO wear gloves so as to not get body oils on the edge and sand with 120 grit paper. Wipe with slight amount of solvent of your choice. (No matter what I mention here someone will take exception) Rubbing Alcohol or Acetone in small amounts are my choice. AS always protect the acrylic everywhere except the working edge. Electrical tape works well as it is impervious to solvent and does not sand away during prep. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 12:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Clarification - Weld-on 10 & crazing Excellent post. On the alcohol bit - what do you think of using mild detergent instead of alcohol to clean up the edges just before applying the glue? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4508#204508 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Subject: Re: re: Re: Clarification - Weld-on 10 & crazing
I think a bit of dish soap and clear water rinse would get exactly that sam e result. I was just too lazy to walk into the house. ...that and water w on't be gone in seconds, when alcohol will. I think either will be just fi ne. Pete #40100 - about done customizing! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing?
From: "Paul Ohman" <ohman_paul(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Good luck. I waited almost 2 months without hearing anything. I had tried to contact them numerous times through email and voice. I then went through paypal to get my money back and i received the trim brackets a few days later. If it were me I would cancel the order now and order through www.iflyrv10.com. A friend ordered the brackets through them and had them in a week. Just my .02. -------- Paul Ohman 40810 slow build wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4569#204569 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing?
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
My experience was the same as Paul's. Only by filing a complaint with Paypal did I get a response. Use Iflyrv10 Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4585#204585 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: lights
Date: Sep 16, 2008
I just browsed the Iflyrv10.com website and noticed the replacement HID lights for $475. they look just like the ones (including ballast) I installed from www.planelights.com for $275. I used the elevator trim cable brackets but unable to remember where I purchased. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Section 36-3 step 6 Gotcha
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Tim; Unless I missed something in the plans please add the following as a Gotcha Section 36-3- Step 6 states- "..Screw the cushion clamps to the nutplates using the hardware shown in Figure 1." Figure 1 shows "AN515-8R8, 8 PLACES" If one looks at Figure 1 you might be led to believe there are 2 holes with two K1000-8 nutplates on the firewall since there really isn't any other place to use the 2 screws (6 go along tunnel- 3 on each side) . The Gotcha is there is a (one) K-1000-3 nutplate on the firewall and one needs to double the MS21919DG4 on top of each other and use a (one) AN3-4 to bolt it down. Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Stella" <sstella(at)incisaledge.com>
Subject: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing?
Date: Sep 16, 2008
I guess thats what I have to do, thanks for the info. Steve 40654 Emp. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:19 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing? My experience was the same as Paul's. Only by filing a complaint with Paypal did I get a response. Use Iflyrv10 Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4585#204585 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Wingtips
To the fiberglass gurus out there: I'd like to fill in the gap on the inside of the wing tip and smooth it out. I didn't do a great job of getting the line straight when I trimmed the gap between the wing tip and the aileron. What's the best way to do this? On the elevator tips we were able to get to the back side and use some Styrofoam to build it up. Here we have the metal from the support to work against. How have others' done this. I have seen a few show planes with all the elevator and wing tips filled. Is Styrofoam ok to use to fill the space? Any links to websites? Thanks in advance. Fred 40515. Waiting on paper work and DAR. Taxi test done this weekend. 10 more knots and she would have been airborne. To all the other builders who haven't flown yet. Get started on the paperwork 3 months before you think you might fly. I should be worrying about what Vx and Vy are for my plane and not trying to fill in cosmetic stuff during the prettiest days of the whole year!. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing?
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
I got my brackets after a month and a phone call. It still amazes me how could someone do this in such a close knit community. At least put a note on the site that all products ship sometime in the next three months or so ... Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4618#204618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Is everyone putting in the Alternate Air kit that Vans sends. If so where are most of you putting the pull knob in the cockpit. I was thinking about putting it to the lower frame next to your (pilot's) ankles. Seems to be out of the way yet available in an emergency. I have gotten many conflicting opinions as to where to place the red cube flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit. 1. In the tunnel near the fuel pump (seems cool and logical). 2. Just in front of the outlet on the firewall engine side 3. Just before the fuel injection distribution manifold. Advised by Lycoming Boy , as a first time builder it would be great if a veteran builder would put together a complete - "completion guide" for the RV10. It would be really worth it to a lot of us novice 1st time builders. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4631#204631 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing?
Date: Sep 16, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I use iflyrv10 when I can. But there's not quite the full assortment of RV-10 parts that Rivethead has. So I ordered what I could from inflyrv10 and the rest from Rivethead. I decided to get upset only once by ordering everything in one shipment. Instead of getting upset 5 times and ordering 5 separate shipments. It took about two months with no communication - but it showed. I really hope iflyrv10 gets off the ground. We need more folks like that. Phil -----Original Message----- From: tomhanaway [mailto:tomhanaway(at)comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 10:19 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead-Aero Missing? My experience was the same as Paul's. Only by filing a complaint with Paypal did I get a response. Use Iflyrv10 Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4585#204585 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: lights
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Dave, the technology used in the ballasts are the big difference in costs. I am currently waiting for results from tests on the new generation of hid ballasts. the ones offered now are almost bulletproof. they have been used in oem auto applications from the high end car manufacturers for some time now. The newer cheaper style ballast have some promise but until tested properly to work in adverse conditions, I'll have to hold off on offering them. The ability to cold start is the primary concern. Perhaps I can add the lower cost ballast and give the option. Steve DiNieri IFLYRV10.com From: David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:57 AM Subject: RV10-List: lights I just browsed the Iflyrv10.com website and noticed the replacement HID lights for $475. they look just like the ones (including ballast) I installed from www.planelights.com for $275. I used the elevator trim cable brackets but unable to remember where I purchased. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
Mike I put mine between the fuel pump and the firewall. Good location. Don't remember exactly where I read it, but they didn't want it in the engine compartment for heat reasons. Also, this list is the best information source for the RV 10. I have gained a world of experience from reading these posts. Also, Tim O's site has the most complete information. He has also been good about trying to pull together other helpful information for the rest of us into one site. Are you putting one 3500 or two screens? Fred. AirMike wrote: > > Is everyone putting in the Alternate Air kit that Vans sends. If so where are most of you putting the pull knob in the cockpit. I was thinking about putting it to the lower frame next to your (pilot's) ankles. Seems to be out of the way yet available in an emergency. > > I have gotten many conflicting opinions as to where to place the red cube flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit. > 1. In the tunnel near the fuel pump (seems cool and logical). > 2. Just in front of the outlet on the firewall engine side > 3. Just before the fuel injection distribution manifold. Advised by Lycoming > > Boy , as a first time builder it would be great if a veteran builder would put together a complete - "completion guide" for the RV10. It would be really worth it to a lot of us novice 1st time builders. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4631#204631 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
Date: Sep 16, 2008
where to place the red cube flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit I plan to follow the plans (section 37-4 fig 3) and put it in the tunnel. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow > > Is everyone putting in the Alternate Air kit that Vans sends. If so where > are most of you putting the pull knob in the cockpit. I was thinking about > putting it to the lower frame next to your (pilot's) ankles. Seems to be > out of the way yet available in an emergency. > > I have gotten many conflicting opinions as to where to place the red cube > flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit. > 1. In the tunnel near the fuel pump (seems cool and logical). > 2. Just in front of the outlet on the firewall engine side > 3. Just before the fuel injection distribution manifold. Advised by > Lycoming > > Boy , as a first time builder it would be great if a veteran builder would > put together a complete - "completion guide" for the RV10. It would be > really worth it to a lot of us novice 1st time builders. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4631#204631 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Just one AFS3500 . Send me your email and I will send pics -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4658#204658 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Wingtips
Date: Sep 16, 2008
Rigid foam will work, or even a piece of balsa or something similar. The thing to remember is that you need to glass over the filler or you will probably end up with a paint crack at the joint line. Another way to straighten up the line, if you don't care about filling the interior, is to extend the upper and lower skins by glassing a flat sheet onto the upper and lower surfaces of the tip. Think of it as replacing the part that got cut off. You can lay up a coupon of fiberglass on a smooth, flat surface to make some sheet material. Then put it in place inside the wingtip and glue it down with flox and resin. Then bodywork the new seam. Clear as mud? Give me a call if I can explain it better. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 9:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips --> To the fiberglass gurus out there: I'd like to fill in the gap on the inside of the wing tip and smooth it out. I didn't do a great job of getting the line straight when I trimmed the gap between the wing tip and the aileron. What's the best way to do this? On the elevator tips we were able to get to the back side and use some Styrofoam to build it up. Here we have the metal from the support to work against. How have others' done this. I have seen a few show planes with all the elevator and wing tips filled. Is Styrofoam ok to use to fill the space? Any links to websites? Thanks in advance. Fred 40515. Waiting on paper work and DAR. Taxi test done this weekend. 10 more knots and she would have been airborne. To all the other builders who haven't flown yet. Get started on the paperwork 3 months before you think you might fly. I should be worrying about what Vx and Vy are for my plane and not trying to fill in cosmetic stuff during the prettiest days of the whole year!. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
Date: Sep 16, 2008
For those not attaching the floscan under the cowl like AFS recommends (and I didn't either)... Don't rivet in the attach bracket to the bottom skin until you actually have the floscan (assuming afs's). The Van's bracket holes do not line up w/afs's floscan. You'll need nutplates that fit a AN4 bolt and you'll end up with them pretty close to the bracket edges. The stock bracket uses AN3's. You'll have to get pretty creative with the nutplates to get them under the bracket w/o having to a) modify the nutplates or b) make a larger bracket. You'll also want to plan it so that you can easily make the tubing that goes from the pump to the floscan so be mindful of where you "center" the floscan on the attach bracket. I think you want to avoid a straight tube here since technically the pump and floscan qualify as rigidly mounted but when things are snugged up I'd think a short straight piece of tubing would not ever become an issue. It's such a PIA to make that short of a tube with such a small curve and I highly doubt that the curve will absorb any vibrations and/or allow for flex. I used the 5052 tubing (not the soft stuff from Van's as it is much harder to make minimum radius bends w/o sacrificing tube diameter) wherever possible which included this piece. What you see in the attached picture is probably attempt number 3. I found it much easier on the back to attach the floscan and pump via the short tube and torque the fittings then install the whole unit as one. I also would think one could fabricate a lot of these fuel lines well before installing the side skins. I think I bent over the damn fuselage for about a month off and on before I got things wrapped up. If I were to do it again I'd plan to work on as much fuel line fabrication prior to the completion of sec 29. http://sinkrate.com/rv10/pics/P1000023.JPG -Ben Westfall #40579 (never going to fly... or at least I feel like it) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 12:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow where to place the red cube flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit I plan to follow the plans (section 37-4 fig 3) and put it in the tunnel. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow > > Is everyone putting in the Alternate Air kit that Vans sends. If so where > are most of you putting the pull knob in the cockpit. I was thinking about > putting it to the lower frame next to your (pilot's) ankles. Seems to be > out of the way yet available in an emergency. > > I have gotten many conflicting opinions as to where to place the red cube > flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit. > 1. In the tunnel near the fuel pump (seems cool and logical). > 2. Just in front of the outlet on the firewall engine side > 3. Just before the fuel injection distribution manifold. Advised by > Lycoming > > Boy , as a first time builder it would be great if a veteran builder would > put together a complete - "completion guide" for the RV10. It would be > really worth it to a lot of us novice 1st time builders. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4631#204631 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2008
From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Torquing finger strainer
When installing the finger strainers in the fuel tanks, what should the torque be? Not sure where I'm supposed to find this information. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 17, 2008
I am putting the AFS3500 flo-scan cube on the sidewall of the tunnel. 1. I fabricated a bracket out of "L" aluminum and a couple of flush rivets 2. Then I decided to route the tube in a U-turn backward going up the side wall. 3. Then another U-turn back to the firewall. (might use an elbow coupling) This way I can remove anything easily -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4732#204732 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 17, 2008
Thanks a lot guys. I talked to Paul Bowmar at Plane Innovations LLC (formerly of EPM-AV) today. He has excellent and thoroughly tested products, but I cannot see spending the extra $100+ for two firewall penetration kits. I will probably buy the Vans "el cheapo" SS covers ($9.50) and use a lot of Red goop. Again thanks for the advice. PS. I strongly urge you to buy the SS heater valves from Paul. Very good and high quality -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4733#204733 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel
flow I don't know about the design of that particular unit, but most fuel flow units want some straight fuel line without significant bends for a distance on either side of the sensor. On Wed, Sep 17, 2008 at 12:54 AM, AirMike wrote: > > I am putting the AFS3500 flo-scan cube on the sidewall of the tunnel. > > 1. I fabricated a bracket out of "L" aluminum and a couple of flush rivets > 2. Then I decided to route the tube in a U-turn backward going up the side wall. > 3. Then another U-turn back to the firewall. (might use an elbow coupling) > > This way I can remove anything easily > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4732#204732 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2008
Subject: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Replacement of the K1000-3 with K2000-3 one lug anchor nut will allow you to use the existing bracket. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage37e.html William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > For those not attaching the floscan under the cowl like AFS recommends (and > I didn't either)... Don't rivet in the attach bracket to the bottom skin > until you actually have the floscan (assuming afs's). The Van's bracket > holes do not line up w/afs's floscan. You'll need nutplates that fit a AN4 > bolt and you'll end up with them pretty close to the bracket edges. The > stock bracket uses AN3's. You'll have to get pretty creative with the > nutplates to get them under the bracket w/o having to a) modify the > nutplates or b) make a larger bracket. > > You'll also want to plan it so that you can easily make the tubing that goes > from the pump to the floscan so be mindful of where you "center" the floscan > on the attach bracket. I think you want to avoid a straight tube here since > technically the pump and floscan qualify as rigidly mounted but when things > are snugged up I'd think a short straight piece of tubing would not ever > become an issue. It's such a PIA to make that short of a tube with such a > small curve and I highly doubt that the curve will absorb any vibrations > and/or allow for flex. > > I used the 5052 tubing (not the soft stuff from Van's as it is much harder > to make minimum radius bends w/o sacrificing tube diameter) wherever > possible which included this piece. What you see in the attached picture is > probably attempt number 3. > > I found it much easier on the back to attach the floscan and pump via the > short tube and torque the fittings then install the whole unit as one. I > also would think one could fabricate a lot of these fuel lines well before > installing the side skins. I think I bent over the damn fuselage for about > a month off and on before I got things wrapped up. If I were to do it again > I'd plan to work on as much fuel line fabrication prior to the completion of > sec 29. > > http://sinkrate.com/rv10/pics/P1000023.JPG > > > -Ben Westfall > #40579 (never going to fly... or at least I feel like it) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 12:43 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel > flow > > > where to place the red cube flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced > AFS3500 kit > > I plan to follow the plans (section 37-4 fig 3) and put it in the tunnel. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 11:26 AM > To: > Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Fwd stuff - Alternate air / flo-scan fuel flow > > > > > Is everyone putting in the Alternate Air kit that Vans sends. If so where > > are most of you putting the pull knob in the cockpit. I was thinking about > > > putting it to the lower frame next to your (pilot's) ankles. Seems to be > > out of the way yet available in an emergency. > > > > I have gotten many conflicting opinions as to where to place the red cube > > flo-scan device that comes with the Advanced AFS3500 kit. > > 1. In the tunnel near the fuel pump (seems cool and logical). > > 2. Just in front of the outlet on the firewall engine side > > 3. Just before the fuel injection distribution manifold. Advised by > > Lycoming > > > > Boy , as a first time builder it would be great if a veteran builder would > > > put together a complete - "completion guide" for the RV10. It would be > > really worth it to a lot of us novice 1st time builders. > > > > -------- > > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > > Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4631#204631 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Section 37-2 revision 1
Date: Sep 17, 2008
FYI for anyone with a newer Fusellage kit. Fuel System Page 37-2 Revision 1 Figure 1 Figure 1 calls for a AN4-6A. the bolts are not in the (MY) inventory If one looks at Revision 0 the figure there calls for a AN4-5A, those two bolts are in the inventory. difference between two revisions is that two extra 960-416 washer are added. If you get to this point and don't see AN4-6A in the inventory you'll know why. I told Van's to update their inventory to reflect the hardware update. Pascal Reid #40720 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Section 30-3 The Steps
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 17, 2008
Helped a friend do his steps last night and I'm doing mine today. In both cases, the pre drilled hole in the WD-1007 steps are not in the correct position. In my case the new hole I will have to drill will actually join with the pre drilled hole creating a "figure eight." I'd be better off if Van had not put any hole in the steps at all. Because of these two experiences, I'm guessing others have run into this as well. Sizing up to an AN4 worked for my friend but is a poor option for me. A search of the forums didn't yield any results and no one has commented on it in their personal web sites. Perhaps these steps are generic for all of Van's tricycle gear airplanes and the hole was for the RV-6A? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4820#204820 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Section 30-3 The Steps
Date: Sep 17, 2008
Thanks for the reference in question of 30-3 makes for easier reviewing. I 'm not sure I understand the pre-drilled piece.. mine had no hole in the step, I needed to match drill it (step 3) . Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 12:38 PM Subject: RV10-List: Section 30-3 The Steps > > Helped a friend do his steps last night and I'm doing mine today. In both > cases, the pre drilled hole in the WD-1007 steps are not in the correct > position. In my case the new hole I will have to drill will actually join > with the pre drilled hole creating a "figure eight." > I'd be better off if Van had not put any hole in the steps at all. Because > of these two experiences, I'm guessing others have run into this as well. > Sizing up to an AN4 worked for my friend but is a poor option for me. A > search of the forums didn't yield any results and no one has commented on > it in their personal web sites. > Perhaps these steps are generic for all of Van's tricycle gear airplanes > and the hole was for the RV-6A? > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4820#204820 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2008
Subject: Re: Section 30-3 The Steps
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Same here; my WD-1007 steps had no hole in them however the WD-1008 Step Mounting bracket had pilot holes. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage30a.html William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Thanks for the reference in question of 30-3 makes for easier reviewing. > I 'm not sure I understand the pre-drilled piece.. mine had no hole in the > step, I needed to match drill it (step 3) . > Pascal > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> > Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 12:38 PM > To: > Subject: RV10-List: Section 30-3 The Steps > > > > > Helped a friend do his steps last night and I'm doing mine today. In both > > cases, the pre drilled hole in the WD-1007 steps are not in the correct > > position. In my case the new hole I will have to drill will actually join > > with the pre drilled hole creating a "figure eight." > > I'd be better off if Van had not put any hole in the steps at all. Because > > of these two experiences, I'm guessing others have run into this as well. > > Sizing up to an AN4 worked for my friend but is a poor option for me. A > > search of the forums didn't yield any results and no one has commented on > > it in their personal web sites. > > Perhaps these steps are generic for all of Van's tricycle gear airplanes > > and the hole was for the RV-6A? > > John > > > > -------- > > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished > > N711JG reserved > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4820#204820 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Airflow Performance troubleshooting
Date: Sep 17, 2008
If someone is flying an RV-10 with an Airflow Performance fuel system, could you please give me a call? We're troubleshooting a problem with a customer's plane and I need to talk to someone who has an Airflow system working correctly in a 10. Thanks, Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Section 30-3 The Steps
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 18, 2008
The two sets of WD-1007 steps that we have are pre drilled for an AN3 bolt. I'm obviously going to have to move on, so I'll probably take mine to a welding shop and get them closed up. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4896#204896 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Section 30-3 The Steps
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 18, 2008
OK folks, I called Van's Tech Support on this one and they were surprised there was a pre drilled hole in the WD-1007-L & -R. When I told them that it moves the step from 45 1/4 inches to 46 inches, they said drop a bolt in it and move on. Turns out the 45 1/4 is a minimum to ensure flap clearance, nothing sinister like aerodynamics or something. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4917#204917 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: GDL-69a to MX-20 data stream/setup
Anyone have experience with the GDL-69A and the MX-20 setup? I fired up the GDL-69 for the first time last night and I'm not sure if there is anything wrong or not but heres a little info if someone has input. The Mx-20 interfaces perfectly with the NAV and GPS, they show up as good input on the system screen on port 1, and port 2. I installed the GDL-69 on port 3 but it shows no input from that device, is there a setup process for the MX-20 that I'm missing to enable that port or does is normally find the data stream as is is recieved? (sorta plug n play) I don't have the XM service yet but I was waiting to get closer to flying before starting the subscription. I was hoping to be able to at least confirm it is operating OK before paying for the subscrition. Pin checks show: There is power to the unit The shielded data wires from the two units cont. ck good No shorts to shields or ground on data wires This is a refurbished unit, so I have that unknown factor but it's from a good dealer. Any thoughts on this? Rick Sked 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2008
From: "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu>
Subject: Powdered Iridite or Alodine
Hello list, I've been looking for a source of powdered Iridite, I talked to Eldorado Solutions today and they aren't able to produce the powdered version of Iridite 14-2 right now. I did find some at Pegasus Auto Racing Supply: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6081. $60 for two pounds of powder which should be plenty. I don't see any powdered de-oxidizer there though (like the Eldorado D-1). Does anyone have any other/better sources for alodining chemicals/cleaners? Kent Ogden #40710 (real) slow-build, tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: GDL-69a to MX-20 data stream/setup
There is a set-up process for the ports. I remember having a similar issue - you gotta hold a couple of buttons while you power-up, IIRC. I don't have my manual here - you may be able to get it online - but not from Garmin anymore - I just tried. -----Original Message----- >From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> >Sent: Sep 18, 2008 12:07 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: GDL-69a to MX-20 data stream/setup > > >Anyone have experience with the GDL-69A and the MX-20 setup? >I fired up the GDL-69 for the first time last night and I'm not sure if there is anything wrong or not but heres a little info if someone has input. >The Mx-20 interfaces perfectly with the NAV and GPS, they show up as good input on the system screen on port 1, and port 2. > >I installed the GDL-69 on port 3 but it shows no input from that device, is there a setup process for the MX-20 that I'm missing to enable that port or does is normally find the data stream as is is recieved? (sorta plug n play) > >I don't have the XM service yet but I was waiting to get closer to flying before starting the subscription. I was hoping to be able to at least confirm it is operating OK before paying for the subscrition. > >Pin checks show: >There is power to the unit >The shielded data wires from the two units cont. ck good >No shorts to shields or ground on data wires >This is a refurbished unit, so I have that unknown factor but it's from a good dealer. >Any thoughts on this? > >Rick Sked >40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Powdered Iridite or Alodine
Date: Sep 18, 2008
Look up PreKote. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kent Ogden To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 11:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Powdered Iridite or Alodine Hello list, I've been looking for a source of powdered Iridite, I talked to Eldorado Solutions today and they aren't able to produce the powdered version of Iridite 14-2 right now. I did find some at Pegasus Auto Racing Supply: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6081. $60 for two pounds of powder which should be plenty. I don't see any powdered de-oxidizer there though (like the Eldorado D-1). Does anyone have any other/better sources for alodining chemicals/cleaners? Kent Ogden #40710 (real) slow-build, tailcone =B7>~?=ED=B2,=DE=03g(-S=D3M=D3Gq=A2z=C1=AE ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Section 30-3 The Steps
From: "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net>
Date: Sep 18, 2008
Just to pipe in, my steps also had the pre-drilled hole, also were off by the same amount, I also called and talked to tech support, who also acted surprised and gave me the same response. At least they're consistent. Dwight Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4970#204970 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall penetrations - electrical
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Sep 18, 2008
Update - Paul Bomar also sells a 2000 degree silicone seal for his fire protection kits. He has kindly offered to sell me some at a reasonable price. Sounds like this stuff is a lot better than the red goop........ -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5026#205026 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Date: Sep 18, 2008
I've been playing with this area but it's complicated by the fact that only the '10 has a hinged nose gear. It almost seems like a fairing doesn't buy much after allowance is made for the gear leg movement. So far I have just covered up as much of the slot forward of the leg as possible-that slot is pretty large to allow for cowl removal-to help with engine cooling. I have a real issue with cooling and I'm adding a second oil cooler. Just too hot here for 1 cooler. I have to keep the engine in my refrigerator until I'm ready to fly as it is! Actually, my worst flight was out of IPL Imperial one evening, OAT was about 95 and we were stuck on the ground for a few minutes, oil temp was 230 on takeoff, it hit 245 before I landed. Changed the oil but I don't want too see that again. Too many times with OAT's approaching 100 on takeoff I have to reduce power, keep mix full rich and flatten climb to keep temps down. Once OAT drops below 80 or so I'm fine. We frequently have a 10 degree inversion here with OAT on the ground above 100. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the ones sold for airplanes. -----Original Message----- Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Albert, Thanks for the note. We have discovered the drawback of the standard oil cooler (high temps) and will be playing with the Airflow 2008 X oil cooler designed for aircraft up to 390 Hp. We hope to be able to control oil temps with this mod instead of adding side or lower cowl louvers. We should know more in a week. Unfortunately the larger oil cooler does not resolve an apparent differential pressure issue in the SJ cowl & plenum preventing max flow of air over the cooler fins. I have a concept in mind that would place a shroud over the outlet side of the oil cooler and terminates on the bottom of the cowl. In flight the venturi effect should draw the air through the cooling fins at pretty high velocity helping to cool the oil. I am sure there are unintended consequences to this design that I can't yet comprehend. Additionally it falls well outside of the KISS principle. I would love to see photos of your dual oil cooler if at all handy. BTW I asked the question "off line" why one would not place a NACA vent on the lower cowl to drive air through the oil cooler. The response we received is that NACA vents are extremely efficient when no back pressure is present but when there is enough back pressure the NACA vent "plugs up" with the resisting air which results in basically no airflow through the scat tubing and thus no air through the cooling fins. Exactly the opposite of the desired effect. Whoops. On a lighter note. I was on my regular commute in the 6A climbing through 7,000' when I heard a BANG behind me. An unusual sound like that gets your attention, and quick. Because my plan was to level off at 7,500'that is when I am pulling back power, prop and refining mixture, engaging the altitude hold, checking temperatures, looking for traffic, talking to Santa Barbara Approach... Heck, I don't have time to look for anything that may be falling off the plane. In those moments the mind races, going over anything and everything that could account for that noise. Did I mention it was a BANG? The plane felt fine, all seemed in order, nothing unusual. Unable to account for the source of the sound I continued with my flight plan staying vigilant as to anything unusual. Once on the ground I gave the plane a once over and found the cause of the noise. I was transporting a large bag of wheat free crackers for my Mother-in-law "special" diet. The altitude change burst the Mylar style container in my baggage compartment. The good news is I was able to sample the crackers on my drive home. Turns out I prefer the regular crackers. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 10:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing I've been playing with this area but it's complicated by the fact that only the '10 has a hinged nose gear. It almost seems like a fairing doesn't buy much after allowance is made for the gear leg movement. So far I have just covered up as much of the slot forward of the leg as possible-that slot is pretty large to allow for cowl removal-to help with engine cooling. I have a real issue with cooling and I'm adding a second oil cooler. Just too hot here for 1 cooler. I have to keep the engine in my refrigerator until I'm ready to fly as it is! Actually, my worst flight was out of IPL Imperial one evening, OAT was about 95 and we were stuck on the ground for a few minutes, oil temp was 230 on takeoff, it hit 245 before I landed. Changed the oil but I don't want too see that again. Too many times with OAT's approaching 100 on takeoff I have to reduce power, keep mix full rich and flatten climb to keep temps down. Once OAT drops below 80 or so I'm fine. We frequently have a 10 degree inversion here with OAT on the ground above 100. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the ones sold for airplanes. -----Original Message----- Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Albert, I have been anticipating the same kind of problem, and hopefully th e vents I added on the sides will help.- I have a couple of extra vents i f your interested.- Don --- On Thu, 9/18/08, Albert Gardner wrote: From: Albert Gardner <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008, 10:58 PM I've been playing with this area but it's complicated by the fact that only the '10 has a hinged nose gear. It almost seems like a fairing doesn't buy much after allowance is made for the gear leg movement. So far I have just covered up as much of the slot forward of the leg as possible-that slot is pretty large to allow for cowl removal-to help with engine cooling. I have a real issue with cooling and I'm adding a second oil cooler. Just too hot here for 1 cooler. I have to keep the engine in my refrigerator until I'm ready to fly as it is! Actually, my worst flight was out of IPL Imperial one evening, OAT was about 95 and we were stuck on the ground for a few minutes, oil temp was 230 on takeoff, it hit 245 before I landed. Changed the oil but I don't want too see that again. Too many times with OAT's approaching 100 on takeoff I have to reduce power, keep mix full rich and flatten climb to keep temps down. Once OAT drops below 80 or so I'm fine. We frequently have a 10 degree inversion here with OAT on the ground above 100 . Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the ones sold for airplanes. -----Original Message----- Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Great story Robin.- Glad it turned out the way it did.- Don --- On Thu, 9/18/08, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008, 11:43 PM Albert, Thanks for the note. We have discovered the drawback of the standard oil cooler (high temps) and will be playing with the Airflow 2008 X oil cooler designed for aircraft up to 390 Hp. We hope to be able to control oil temps with this mod instead of adding side or lower cowl louvers. We should know more in a week. Unfortunately the larger oil cooler does not resolve an apparent differential pressure issue in the SJ cowl & plenum preventing max flow of air over the cooler fins. I have a concept in mind that would place a shroud over the outlet side of the oil cooler and terminates on the bottom of the cowl. In flight the venturi effect should draw the air through the cooling fins at pretty high velocity helping to cool the oil. I am sure there are unintended consequences to this design that I can't yet comprehend. Additionally it falls well outside of the KISS principle. I would love to see photos of your dual oil cooler if at all handy. BTW I asked the question "off line" why one would not place a NACA vent on the lower cowl to drive air through the oil cooler. The response we received is that NACA vents are extremely efficient when no back pressure is present but when there is enough back pressure the NACA vent "plugs up" with the resisting air which results in basically no airflow through the scat tubing and thus no air through the cooling fins. Exactly the opposite of the desired effect. Whoops. On a lighter note. I was on my regular commute in the 6A climbing through 7,000' when I heard a BANG behind me. An unusual sound like that gets your attention, and quick. Because my plan was to level off at 7,500'that is when I am pulling back power, prop and refining mixture, engaging the altitude hold, checking temperatures, looking for traffic, talking to Santa Barbara Approach... Heck, I don't have time to look for anything that may be falling off the plane. In those moments the mind races, going over anything and everything that could account for that noise. Did I mention it was a BANG? The plane felt fine, all seemed in order, nothing unusual. Unable to account for the source of the sound I continued with my flight plan staying vigilant as to anything unusual. Once on the ground I gave the plane a once over and found the cause of the noise. I was transporting a large bag of wheat free crackers for my Mother-in-law "special" diet. The altitude change burst the Mylar style container in my baggage compartment. The good news is I was able to sample the crackers on my drive home. Turns out I prefer the regular crackers. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 10:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing I've been playing with this area but it's complicated by the fact that only the '10 has a hinged nose gear. It almost seems like a fairing doesn't buy much after allowance is made for the gear leg movement. So far I have just covered up as much of the slot forward of the leg as possible-that slot is pretty large to allow for cowl removal-to help with engine cooling. I have a real issue with cooling and I'm adding a second oil cooler. Just too hot here for 1 cooler. I have to keep the engine in my refrigerator until I'm ready to fly as it is! Actually, my worst flight was out of IPL Imperial one evening, OAT was about 95 and we were stuck on the ground for a few minutes, oil temp was 230 on takeoff, it hit 245 before I landed. Changed the oil but I don't want too see that again. Too many times with OAT's approaching 100 on takeoff I have to reduce power, keep mix full rich and flatten climb to keep temps down. Once OAT drops below 80 or so I'm fine. We frequently have a 10 degree inversion here with OAT on the ground above 100. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the ones sold for airplanes. -----Original Message----- Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
One mod I saw at OSH was a metal shield that was curved and attached to the top of the oil cooler. The shield directed the air coming through the cool er down and back towards the cowl exit instead of forward and down in the c owl...I'm putting the side vents on as well and really considering a airflo w cooler after we see what happens on the first flight: http://www.aviation techproducts.com/html/engine__parts.html Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don McDonald" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 8:17:39 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing Albert, I have been anticipating the same kind of problem, and hopefully th e vents I added on the sides will help.=C2- I have a couple of extra vent s if your interested.=C2- Don --- On Thu, 9/18/08, Albert Gardner wrote: From: Albert Gardner <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008, 10:58 PM I've been playing with this area but it's complicated by the fact that only the '10 has a hinged nose gear. It almost seems like a fairing doesn't buy much after allowance is made for the gear leg movement. So far I have just covered up as much of the slot forward of the leg as possible-that slot is pretty large to allow for cowl removal-to help with engine cooling. I have a real issue with cooling and I'm adding a second oil cooler. Just too hot here for 1 cooler. I have to keep the engine in my refrigerator until I'm ready to fly as it is! Actually, my worst flight was out of IPL Imperial one evening, OAT was about 95 and we were stuck on the ground for a few minutes, oil temp was 230 on takeoff, it hit 245 before I landed. Changed the oil but I don't want too see that again. Too many times with OAT's approaching 100 on takeoff I have to reduce power, keep mix full rich and flatten climb to keep temps down. Once OAT drops below 80 or so I'm fine. We frequently have a 10 degree inversion here with OAT on the ground above 100 . Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the ones sold for airplanes. -----Original Message----- Has anyone designed / built an intersecting nose gear fairing that transitions from the lower cowl to the nose gear? This seems like an important place to manage the airflow (directly behind the prop) where sharp angles intersect. All the other Vans A models have a fearing in this location. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge pictures)
Don McDonald wrote: > Albert, I have been anticipating the same kind of problem, and > hopefully the vents I added on the sides will help. I have a couple > of extra vents if your interested. > Don > Don, and others ..... when you send pictures, please reduce their size to something like 640 X 480 ...... I'd love to make them wallpaper ..... but not on the computer room wall!!! :-) I'm lazy ...... it's just too much trouble for me to save and then open in a paint program, and reduce size so I can see them. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
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Date: Sep 19, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge pictures)
I'm not sure what your problem is, but when I click on the same pics, from the email I sent, they come up nicely on the page.- How about you Rick? - What system are you running? Don --- On Fri, 9/19/08, linn Walters wrote: From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge pictures) Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 9:07 PM Don McDonald wrote: > Albert, I have been anticipating the same kind of problem, and > hopefully the vents I added on the sides will help. I have a couple > of extra vents if your interested. > Don >


September 06, 2008 - September 19, 2008

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