RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ds
September 19, 2008 - October 12, 2008
Don, and others ..... when you send pictures, please reduce their size
to something like 640 X 480 ...... I'd love to make them wallpaper
..... but not on the computer room wall!!! :-)
I'm lazy ...... it's just too much trouble for me to save and then open
in a paint program, and reduce size so I can see them.
Linn
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM |
Hey Guys(gals),
I'm going to add more of the rv10 predrilled/machined parts to my
lineup of "stocked" parts available for resale. Does anyone have a list
of the parts using vans numbers
so I can look them up in the prints?
thanks
steven dinieri
IFLYRV10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge pictures) |
it's more about what version and what is being used to open .jpg. I have
XP and use the standard windows Image and fax viewer. Opens up nicely.
May be a Mac or he has the default application to be paint or other, in
which case that would be the steps needed to open up the file.
Linn;
if you have XP, let me know offlist and I'll assist with changing the
"open with" to be a different app. You'll be fine after that.
Pascal
From: Don McDonald
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge
pictures)
I'm not sure what your problem is, but when I click on the same
pics, from the email I sent, they come up nicely on the page. How about
you Rick? What system are you running?
Don
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, linn Walters
wrote:
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with
huge pictures)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 9:07 PM
Don McDonald wrote:
> Albert, I have been anticipating the same kind of problem, and
> hopefully the vents I added on the sides will help. I have a couple
> of extra vents if your interested.
> Don
>
Don, and others ..... when you send pictures, please reduce their size
to something like 640 X 480 ...... I'd love to make them wallpaper
..... but not on the computer room wall!!! :-)
I'm lazy ...... it's just too much trouble for me to save and then open
in a paint program, and reduce size so I can see them.
Linn
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
I occasionally get a screen that comes up and asks for letters and
numbers, basically a SPAM filter, when I send out a message is this a
Matronics thing? Anyone else get this as well?
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
To solve all the email problems, use the FORUM interface.
So much easier and you can scroll through all the messages for each thread checking
history of others posts without having to pull them out of your email program
history.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5102#205102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Hi
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are running
through a 3/8" bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger than
required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax so
that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
Inquiring m minds need to know.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
On the left side, if you go with a 4500, I don't think you will have enough room
for the 2.25 BU instruments. Maybe with a 3500. I will do some measuring tonight.
I have a 4500 on the left and like you 2 center stacks. I put my 3 2.25
BU instruments at the bottom of the left stack.
I also put my 430W in the left stack. For IFR purposes, I believe where you have
it, it will be out side of the 'legal' viewing area. True the AFS will be
your primary ADI/HSI but I still like it in my cross check.
My left stack is from top to bottom annunciator lights, AP, 430W and BU instruments.
Also, I am finishing up my wiring and if you can I sure would consider a 4500 on
the left side. But you need to include it in your construction before you cut
the panel. Also, you will need to increase the clearance on the rib by at
least a half inch over a 3500.
My .2 cents worth.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5124#205124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Les,
I put a few dabs of silicone on the the areas where the wire/tubes ran thro
ugh the bushings at the beginning and end of the runs.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:50:50 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Hi
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are runni
ng through a 3/8=9D bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is l
arger than required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes &
coax so that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
Inquiring m minds need to know.
Cheers
Les Kearney
========================
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Thanks Rick
That sounds like a plan.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 19-Sep-08, at 2:01 PM, Rick Sked wrote:
> Les,
>
> I put a few dabs of silicone on the the areas where the wire/tubes
> ran through the bushings at the beginning and end of the runs.
>
> Rick Sked
>
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:50:50 PM (GMT-0800) America/
> Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
>
>
> Hi
>
>
> As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring.
> I have two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system.
> They are running through a 3/8=9D bushing along with a COAX
cable. The
> bushing is larger than required so I am wonder if it is necessary t
> o secure the tubes & coax so that they do not move. If so, what is t
> he recommended procedure?
>
>
> Inquiring m minds need to know.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 =93 some assembly required.
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
I used adel clamps at the inspection panels to firmly attach the wiring; I
would be careful of potting them in with silicon or anything else as those
holes may need to carry another wire at a later date. it's difficult to
insert another wire in a hole potted with silicone within a wing.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Les,
I put a few dabs of silicone on the the areas where the wire/tubes ran
through the bushings at the beginning and end of the runs.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:50:50 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Hi
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are running
through a 3/8" bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger than
required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax so
that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
Inquiring m minds need to know.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing (with huge pictures) |
If the problem is file size, we can reduce the size of the pictures we post
to the list several ways. One simple one is to use Microsoft's Power Toy
ImageResizer program. It attaches to your right mouse button and when you
right click an image file name the option to resize appears.
Resizing one of Don's jpeg files (IMG_2277c) reduced it from a 2043x944
pixel 137KB file to a 640x296 pixel 29KB file.
The file name stays the same but the text (small) is added to the end of the
file name, i.e. IMG_2277c (Small).jpg The original is unaffected.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Don, and others ..... when you send pictures, please reduce their size
to something like 640 X 480 ...... I'd love to make them wallpaper
..... but not on the computer room wall!!! :-)
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You can get the best of both, using Gmail interface, including Google
search capabilities within your email.
On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 11:00 AM, orchidman wrote:
>
> To solve all the email problems, use the FORUM interface.
>
> So much easier and you can scroll through all the messages for each thread checking
history of others posts without having to pull them out of your email program
history.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5102#205102
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
I don't have the same situation since my pitot tube is running
separately from any coax. But where I have coax and lighting wires, I
am tying them together in the middle of each rib bay between the
bushings. I did this before the bottom skin went on. I used the waxed
string stuff. Seems better than letting them remain separate for the
12"+ between ribs.
Bill
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I
> have two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They
> are running through a 3/8" bushing along with a COAX cable. The
> bushing is larger than required so I am wonder if it is necessary to
> secure the tubes & coax so that they do not move. If so, what is the
> recommended procedure?
>
>
>
> Inquiring m minds need to know.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 -- some assembly required.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
-Unless you fly regularly with a co-pilot, you may want to consider putting the
AFS3500s next to each other and the VP-200 on the right. You would have the
reverisionay mode in case a display falis and or moving map if you get that option
right in fron of you.
-The GTX-327 transponder is not that deep, however the GTX-330 and it's European
equivalent, the GTX-328 is very deep (28.6 cm) and will require that you cut
through the secondary panel. At the bottom of the stack, cutting through the
secondary panel will provide little if any room for reinforcement. This is the
primary reason I placed my transponder further up the stack.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Hi,
> this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
>
> Best
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
Feedback that might be helpful to everybody online is regarding the
VP-200. My recommendation is to have the switch panel right by the
PFD, so right below your left AFS screen. You can fit it there even
if you have the 4500. Also, even if you plan to start with the 3500,
I would get a 4500 tray and adapter plate to mount the 3500 so it will
be a slide-in upgrade to go to the 4500. I've done this and it works
great.
Next, on the VP-200 Display Unit, that does not need to be as close to
the pilot's hands as you have it. It's a great reference item, but
you really spend very little time with your hands on it. In my
experience you will spend a lot more time with you hands on the 430
and maybe the backup COM than you will with the VP Screen. Once you
get it setup, you hardly ever have to mess with it, which is one of
the reasons VP is a great way to go for anybody. You will also now
have a dedicated Engine Monitor display, so you can use all of your
screen real estate for EFIS, Map and HSI.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 19, 2008, at 3:44 PM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> >
>
> Hi,
> this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
>
> Best
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Bill
I just received a spool of wire lacing from Stein today along with a package
of other goodies. I was going to tie the COAX and tubes using a running set
of knots. My only concern was the small tubes "bouncing" in the bushings.
This may be a non-issue though.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: September-19-08 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
I don't have the same situation since my pitot tube is running separately
from any coax. But where I have coax and lighting wires, I am tying them
together in the middle of each rib bay between the bushings. I did this
before the bottom skin went on. I used the waxed string stuff. Seems
better than letting them remain separate for the 12"+ between ribs.
Bill
Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are running
through a 3/8" bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger than
required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax so
that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
Inquiring m minds need to know.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Michael
You avionics selection matches mine exactly except that I am using the VP100
so as to save panel space.
I do not have any steam gauges as I plan to put my AFS4500's side by side.
They will have dual AHRS and battery back ups so I will have complete EFIS
redundancy. I don't think steam gauges will do anything for me. Besides, as
I am using an Eggenfelllner Subaru, I don't have a vacuum pump.
I suggest you print off a full size version of your panel and tape it to
your panel. Sit in your fuse and see how things look when actually sitting
in the fuse. I have gone through a dozen iterations of my panel before
landing on something that made sense to me.
You may want to look at the Accuracy Avionics panel or the Stein panel that
allows the stack to be canted towards you. Although Accuracy has gone tango
uniform, you can still get the fibreglass from Tony Sustare.
Cheers
Les Kearney
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: September-19-08 1:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Michael
Another thing to consider - you may want to have some annuciator lights that
will indicate that there is a MASTER ALARM or perhaps a door ajar. Mind you
if the door is ajar in flight, then its immediate departure will likely be
warning enough .
Seriously though, if the VP200 is moved out of your normal field of vision,
a MASTER caution located above the AFS 3500 will tell you scan everything
RIGHT NOW!
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: September-19-08 1:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I thought about the option of putting in the trays for the 4500 but consider this;
A 3400 has the same screen size and resolution as 4500 and according to AFS,
an upgraded 3400 will be functionally equivalent to a 4500 with the exception
of front mounting. The only thing you will not get with an upgraded 3400
is the form factor and front mounting. The 3400 form factor has certain benefits
over the 4500 form factor. With the 3400 form factor you can place the units
closer together than the 4500. With a 3400, you have less panel material
to remove, this can be important as you push the screens further to the edge of
the panel in order to make them fit. So if front panel mounting is not important
to you, get the 3400 and then upgrade the same units when you are ready.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Feedback that might be helpful to everybody online is regarding the
> VP-200. My recommendation is to have the switch panel right by the
> PFD, so right below your left AFS screen. You can fit it there even
> if you have the 4500. Also, even if you plan to start with the 3500,
> I would get a 4500 tray and adapter plate to mount the 3500 so it will
> be a slide-in upgrade to go to the 4500. I've done this and it works
> great.
>
> Next, on the VP-200 Display Unit, that does not need to be as close to
> the pilot's hands as you have it. It's a great reference item, but
> you really spend very little time with your hands on it. In my
> experience you will spend a lot more time with you hands on the 430
> and maybe the backup COM than you will with the VP Screen. Once you
> get it setup, you hardly ever have to mess with it, which is one of
> the reasons VP is a great way to go for anybody. You will also now
> have a dedicated Engine Monitor display, so you can use all of your
> screen real estate for EFIS, Map and HSI.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Sep 19, 2008, at 3:44 PM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> > >
> >
> > Hi,
> > this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
> >
> > Best
> > Michael
> >
> > --------
> > RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> > #511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Wow great panel lay out that is exactly what I was looking for can you send
me a complete equipment list you are planning on.
Thanks
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Evrery once in a while.... couple of months in between.- Yes, running XP.
- I use a program called Thunbs, to compress and crop the files.- Don
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, pascal wrote:
From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: RV10-List: SPAM filter
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 10:33 AM
I occasionally get a screen that comes up and asks for letters and numbers,
basically a SPAM filter, when I send out a message-is this a Matronics t
hing? Anyone else get this as well?
Thanks!
Pascal
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Remarkably well designed and laid out.
I am placing the VP-Switch panel in the overhead as part of the air
plenum construction. Les had an excellent recommendation on the Warning
and Caution light strip at the top of the instrument panel. Of course
the "Bitching Betty" feature on the AFS makes for a remarkable choice of
product.
You're doing a great job and I'm looking forward to its flight and the
news of the accomplishment.
John Cox
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Les, did you get your brackets yet?- I didn't know I was supposed to fill
out a cnkjdahaerfgf custom form... so let me know.--- In my wing I u
sed a length of that thin wall drip sprinkler system pipe.- Really cheap,
really light, and no chaffing.- Don
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 12:50 PM
Hi
-
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are runni
ng through a 3/8=94 bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger
than required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax
so that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
-
Inquiring m minds need to know.
-
Cheers
-
Les Kearney
#40643 ' some assembly required.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
You mean 3500, not 3400. The latter is the 6.4". There are a lot of
differences including 2 knobs, joysticks, better screen, faster
processor allowing for synthetic vision, front mount is a huge plus.
Olnly drawback is that it takes up more space. Forward planning for
4500 upgrade is wise, IMHO, and using the adapter for a 3500 makes it
front mount.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
On Sep 19, 2008, at 7:34 PM, "William Curtis"
wrote:
>
> I thought about the option of putting in the trays for the 4500 but
> consider this; A 3400 has the same screen size and resolution as
> 4500 and according to AFS, an upgraded 3400 will be functionally
> equivalent to a 4500 with the exception of front mounting. The only
> thing you will not get with an upgraded 3400 is the form factor and
> front mounting. The 3400 form factor has certain benefits over the
> 4500 form factor. With the 3400 form factor you can place the units
> closer together than the 4500. With a 3400, you have less panel
> material to remove, this can be important as you push the screens
> further to the edge of the panel in order to make them fit. So if
> front panel mounting is not important to you, get the 3400 and then
> upgrade the same units when you are ready.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>>
>> Feedback that might be helpful to everybody online is regarding the
>> VP-200. My recommendation is to have the switch panel right by the
>> PFD, so right below your left AFS screen. You can fit it there even
>> if you have the 4500. Also, even if you plan to start with the 3500,
>> I would get a 4500 tray and adapter plate to mount the 3500 so it
>> will
>> be a slide-in upgrade to go to the 4500. I've done this and it works
>> great.
>>
>> Next, on the VP-200 Display Unit, that does not need to be as close
>> to
>> the pilot's hands as you have it. It's a great reference item, but
>> you really spend very little time with your hands on it. In my
>> experience you will spend a lot more time with you hands on the 430
>> and maybe the backup COM than you will with the VP Screen. Once you
>> get it setup, you hardly ever have to mess with it, which is one of
>> the reasons VP is a great way to go for anybody. You will also now
>> have a dedicated Engine Monitor display, so you can use all of your
>> screen real estate for EFIS, Map and HSI.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Sep 19, 2008, at 3:44 PM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>> this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
>>>
>>> Best
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>> #511
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Attachments:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle quadrant and Stein panel |
I've got the Stein panel with the canted center stack (I'm liking it a
lot so far). However, I trying to install the throttle quadrant and
find a few challenges. Since the center stack sticks out a bit, it
seems to require that either the quadrant be installed 3/4" or more
below the bottom of the panel and also be installed an inch or so
further aft. Otherwise the center stack and the throttle controls
interfere with each other.
I've seen a post about the quadrant cables being just long enough when
installed normally. There is also a post or two about getting longer
custom cables to accomodate the Aerotronics or other panels.
Any one have any experience with this setup yet? How much lee way do I
have on the standard quadrant cables?
Bill Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Yup, I meant 3500. As I understand it, according to AFS, when the 3500 is upgraded,
you get all those features (processor, knobs, joystick, e tc.) in the same
chassis. I guess if you planned to remove it frequently, front mounting would
be a plus, but I would rather have the smaller frame. If Rob is listening
he can confirm this.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> You mean 3500, not 3400. The latter is the 6.4". There are a lot of
> differences including 2 knobs, joysticks, better screen, faster
> processor allowing for synthetic vision, front mount is a huge plus.
> Olnly drawback is that it takes up more space. Forward planning for
> 4500 upgrade is wise, IMHO, and using the adapter for a 3500 makes it
> front mount.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> On Sep 19, 2008, at 7:34 PM, "William Curtis"
> wrote:
>
> >
> > I thought about the option of putting in the trays for the 4500 but
> > consider this; A 3400 has the same screen size and resolution as
> > 4500 and according to AFS, an upgraded 3400 will be functionally
> > equivalent to a 4500 with the exception of front mounting. The only
> > thing you will not get with an upgraded 3400 is the form factor and
> > front mounting. The 3400 form factor has certain benefits over the
> > 4500 form factor. With the 3400 form factor you can place the units
> > closer together than the 4500. With a 3400, you have less panel
> > material to remove, this can be important as you push the screens
> > further to the edge of the panel in order to make them fit. So if
> > front panel mounting is not important to you, get the 3400 and then
> > upgrade the same units when you are ready.
> >
> > William
> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> >>
> >>
> >> Feedback that might be helpful to everybody online is regarding the
> >> VP-200. My recommendation is to have the switch panel right by the
> >> PFD, so right below your left AFS screen. You can fit it there even
> >> if you have the 4500. Also, even if you plan to start with the 3500,
> >> I would get a 4500 tray and adapter plate to mount the 3500 so it
> >> will
> >> be a slide-in upgrade to go to the 4500. I've done this and it works
> >> great.
> >>
> >> Next, on the VP-200 Display Unit, that does not need to be as close
> >> to
> >> the pilot's hands as you have it. It's a great reference item, but
> >> you really spend very little time with your hands on it. In my
> >> experience you will spend a lot more time with you hands on the 430
> >> and maybe the backup COM than you will with the VP Screen. Once you
> >> get it setup, you hardly ever have to mess with it, which is one of
> >> the reasons VP is a great way to go for anybody. You will also now
> >> have a dedicated Engine Monitor display, so you can use all of your
> >> screen real estate for EFIS, Map and HSI.
> >>
> >> Jesse Saint
> >> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> >> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >> Cell: 352-427-0285
> >> Fax: 815-377-3694
> >>
> >> On Sep 19, 2008, at 3:44 PM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> >>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Hi,
> >>> this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
> >>>
> >>> Best
> >>> Michael
> >>>
> >>> --------
> >>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> >>> #511
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Read this topic online here:
> >>>
> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Attachments:
> >>>
> >>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Michael,
You might consider swapping your left and right stacks. I find I spend a
lot of time fiddling with my audio panel, 530, and autopilot, so I put them
closer. My transponder and SL30 are in the same position you're showing in
the picture and sometimes I wish the nav/com was closer.
The AFS autopilot control might help with that one, but I would vote to put
the 430 and audio panel closer.
I think there's a picture of my panel (single 3400) on the AFS web site.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted
-->
Hi,
this is my desired panel layout. I would appreciate your feedback.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5119#205119
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v14_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
Hi Don
No brackets yet but I am sure they will appear in a few days. Crossing the
boarder always adds a bit to transit. Sorry about the &^*%*% customs forms.
Unfortunately we get all the government we pay for. Damn!
Cheers
Les
PS: I will look for some of the sprinkler tubing and see if it will do. I am
reluctant to tie the AOA tubes too tightly as they are so very soft. It
wouldn't help to accidently pinch a tube deep in the wing.
Cheers
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: September-19-08 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Les, did you get your brackets yet? I didn't know I was supposed to fill
out a cnkjdahaerfgf custom form... so let me know. In my wing I used a
length of that thin wall drip sprinkler system pipe. Really cheap, really
light, and no chaffing. Don
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 12:50 PM
Hi
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are running
through a 3/8" bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger than
required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax so
that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
Inquiring m minds need to know.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | A dream come true |
For those of you with mature flying airplanes disregard the
following...you already know.
For those still building or in early test flying your efforts will be
rewarded if you stick to your dreams of building and flying
the RV10.
My first attempt at building an experimental airplane was an RV4 that
provided 10 years and 700 hours of great fun and satisfaction.
The logic I used in deciding to build a 10 was to be able to still enjoy
flying a great handling airplane I might be able to build and exchange
the
"Harley Davidson" of the line for an "SUV" that could be shared more
comfortably by the rest of the family and others. Instead of formation
&
aerobatics, I hoped to find enjoyment in regaining the ability to fly in
the IFR system with state of the art avionics.
With the test phase complete and building confidence in the airplane &
Chelton EFIS/FMS system combined with the TruTrak autopilot in the IFR
system I can see that the above goals have been exceeded.
Part of the justification for the airplane was comfortable travel for
the family and the dog. So far all of the passengers have been very
happy.
The dog (wearing her ear protection) sleeps through the whole trip and
my wife says we are going to visit everyone in the address book as long
as the money holds out.
For example, we took a weekend trip from central MI to southern IL in
2:30, normally a 10 hour drive. While there we took a side trip with 4
folks for dinner at
the Land between the Lakes in KY., thirty minutes each way, normally a
2+00 drive.
The next mission was to ferry two normal guys and one big dude plus some
tools and bags from central MI to an airport just south of the DCA ADIZ
to pick up an Acro Sport biplane one of them was purchasing. Flight time
was 3+00 and fuel burn was 38 gallons. We spent several hours on the
ground and still arrived back in MI before 6:00 PM. On the return we
were given a number of re-routes which with the avionics, autopilot, and
a good copilot/radio operator, were easy to handle. We also spent a
little time in some rather rough building convective clouds. The
airplane and autopilot performed well. In spite of 10-25 knot headwinds
we still landed with an hour's fuel remaining.
The airplane is fun to fly and performs well even at max weight and is a
very productive transporter. Take your time, expand your comfort
envelope cautiously, and then accept the compliments of friends and
family with humility.
Dick Sipp
40065 N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
That tubing is great..I used it along both sides of the fuselage also.... a
dding wires later, either in the wings or fuselage, a piece of cake.- I u
sed cut off connectors to secure them on one side of each bulkhead.-- D
on
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 7:37 PM
Hi Don
-
No brackets yet but I am sure they will appear in a few days. Crossing the
boarder always adds a bit to transit. Sorry about the &^*%*% customs forms.
Unfortunately we get all the government we pay for. Damn!
-
Cheers
-
Les
-
PS: I will look for some of the sprinkler tubing and see if it will do. I a
m reluctant to tie the AOA tubes too tightly as they are so very soft. It w
ouldn=92t help to accidently pinch a tube deep in the wing.
-
Cheers
-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: September-19-08 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
-
Les, did you get your brackets yet?- I didn't know I was supposed to fill
out a cnkjdahaerfgf custom form... so let me know.--- In my wing I u
sed a length of that thin wall drip sprinkler system pipe.- Really cheap,
really light, and no chaffing.- Don
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions
Date: Friday, September 19, 2008, 12:50 PM
Hi
-
As I work on wiring, I am a bit unsure of how to secure wing wiring. I have
two small, light pitot tubes related to the AFS AOA system. They are runni
ng through a 3/8=94 bushing along with a COAX cable. The bushing is larger
than required so I am wonder if it is necessary to secure the tubes & coax
so that they do not move. If so, what is the recommended procedure?
-
Inquiring m minds need to know.
-
Cheers
-
Les Kearney
#40643 ' some assembly required. - -get=_blank rel=nofollow>http
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=nofollow>http://forums.matronics
.comblank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution -
- - -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matron
ics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution -
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A dream come true |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Di ck, in your humility do you have pictures of N110DV we can mutually
enjoy?
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard sipp
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: A dream come true
For those of you with mature flying airplanes disregard the
following...you already know.
For those still building or in early test flying your efforts will be
rewarded if you stick to your dreams of building and flying
the RV10.
My first attempt at building an experimental airplane was an RV4 that
provided 10 years and 700 hours of great fun and satisfaction.
The logic I used in deciding to build a 10 was to be able to still enjoy
flying a great handling airplane I might be able to build and exchange
the
"Harley Davidson" of the line for an "SUV" that could be shared more
comfortably by the rest of the family and others. Instead of formation
&
aerobatics, I hoped to find enjoyment in regaining the ability to fly in
the IFR system with state of the art avionics.
With the test phase complete and building confidence in the airplane &
Chelton EFIS/FMS system combined with the TruTrak autopilot in the IFR
system I can see that the above goals have been exceeded.
Part of the justification for the airplane was comfortable travel for
the family and the dog. So far all of the passengers have been very
happy.
The dog (wearing her ear protection) sleeps through the whole trip and
my wife says we are going to visit everyone in the address book as long
as the money holds out.
For example, we took a weekend trip from central MI to southern IL in
2:30, normally a 10 hour drive. While there we took a side trip with 4
folks for dinner at
the Land between the Lakes in KY., thirty minutes each way, normally a
2+00 drive.
The next mission was to ferry two normal guys and one big dude plus some
tools and bags from central MI to an airport just south of the DCA ADIZ
to pick up an Acro Sport biplane one of them was purchasing. Flight time
was 3+00 and fuel burn was 38 gallons. We spent several hours on the
ground and still arrived back in MI before 6:00 PM. On the return we
were given a number of re-routes which with the avionics, autopilot, and
a good copilot/radio operator, were easy to handle. We also spent a
little time in some rather rough building convective clouds. The
airplane and autopilot performed well. In spite of 10-25 knot headwinds
we still landed with an hour's fuel remaining.
The airplane is fun to fly and performs well even at max weight and is a
very productive transporter. Take your time, expand your comfort
envelope cautiously, and then accept the compliments of friends and
family with humility.
Dick Sipp
40065 N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A dream come true |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dick,
Nice motivating note.
I plan to fly with two, count them two dogs when my -10 is up and
running. We already have the Mutt Muffs for each but while at OSH this
year I saw a clear bag that goes over the dogs head fed by the ships O2
system. Seems like a good idea for X-Country flight at altitude.
Any PIREPS by users would be appreciated.
Robin
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of richard sipp
Sent: Sat 9/20/2008 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: A dream come true
For those of you with mature flying airplanes disregard the
following...you already know.
For those still building or in early test flying your efforts will be
rewarded if you stick to your dreams of building and flying
the RV10.
My first attempt at building an experimental airplane was an RV4 that
provided 10 years and 700 hours of great fun and satisfaction.
The logic I used in deciding to build a 10 was to be able to still enjoy
flying a great handling airplane I might be able to build and exchange
the
"Harley Davidson" of the line for an "SUV" that could be shared more
comfortably by the rest of the family and others. Instead of formation
&
aerobatics, I hoped to find enjoyment in regaining the ability to fly in
the IFR system with state of the art avionics.
With the test phase complete and building confidence in the airplane &
Chelton EFIS/FMS system combined with the TruTrak autopilot in the IFR
system I can see that the above goals have been exceeded.
Part of the justification for the airplane was comfortable travel for
the family and the dog. So far all of the passengers have been very
happy.
The dog (wearing her ear protection) sleeps through the whole trip and
my wife says we are going to visit everyone in the address book as long
as the money holds out.
For example, we took a weekend trip from central MI to southern IL in
2:30, normally a 10 hour drive. While there we took a side trip with 4
folks for dinner at
the Land between the Lakes in KY., thirty minutes each way, normally a
2+00 drive.
The next mission was to ferry two normal guys and one big dude plus some
tools and bags from central MI to an airport just south of the DCA ADIZ
to pick up an Acro Sport biplane one of them was purchasing. Flight time
was 3+00 and fuel burn was 38 gallons. We spent several hours on the
ground and still arrived back in MI before 6:00 PM. On the return we
were given a number of re-routes which with the avionics, autopilot, and
a good copilot/radio operator, were easy to handle. We also spent a
little time in some rather rough building convective clouds. The
airplane and autopilot performed well. In spite of 10-25 knot headwinds
we still landed with an hour's fuel remaining.
The airplane is fun to fly and performs well even at max weight and is a
very productive transporter. Take your time, expand your comfort
envelope cautiously, and then accept the compliments of friends and
family with humility.
Dick Sipp
40065 N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thank you all your valuable Feedback.
I plan to post two more versions with some of your suggestions baked in.
I will try out to swap the vp-200 and the garmin stack. I will however keep one
AFS-3500 for the copilot. The challenge will be to make it fit within the original
panel size including the lower bar.
What is the required edge distance to the glare shield for the AFS-3500?
Best regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5240#205240
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A dream come true |
Oh yeah! I can feel the dream.
I'm driving my "Jeep" around right now. The off road tires are a little
rough and the soft top is a pain sometimes but with the door off it's
fun in the summer. Exhausting on long trips though.
Can't wait for a full size, highway tired "SUV".
Thanks.
richard sipp wrote:
> For those of you with mature flying airplanes disregard the
> following...you already know.
>
> For those still building or in early test flying your efforts will be
> rewarded if you stick to your dreams of building and flying
> the RV10.
>
> My first attempt at building an experimental airplane was an RV4
> that provided 10 years and 700 hours of great fun and satisfaction.
>
> The logic I used in deciding to build a 10 was to be able to still
> enjoy flying a great handling airplane I might be able to build and
> exchange the
> "Harley Davidson" of the line for an "SUV" that could be shared more
> comfortably by the rest of the family and others. Instead of formation &
> aerobatics, I hoped to find enjoyment in regaining the ability to fly
> in the IFR system with state of the art avionics.
>
> With the test phase complete and building confidence in the airplane
> & Chelton EFIS/FMS system combined with the TruTrak autopilot in the
> IFR system I can see that the above goals have been exceeded.
>
> Part of the justification for the airplane was comfortable travel for
> the family and the dog. So far all of the passengers have been
> very happy.
> The dog (wearing her ear protection) sleeps through the whole trip and
> my wife says we are going to visit everyone in the address book as
> long as the money holds out.
>
> For example, we took a weekend trip from central MI to southern IL in
> 2:30, normally a 10 hour drive. While there we took a side trip with 4
> folks for dinner at
> the Land between the Lakes in KY., thirty minutes each way, normally a
> 2+00 drive.
>
> The next mission was to ferry two normal guys and one big dude plus
> some tools and bags from central MI to an airport just south of the
> DCA ADIZ to pick up an Acro Sport biplane one of them was purchasing.
> Flight time was 3+00 and fuel burn was 38 gallons. We spent several
> hours on the ground and still arrived back in MI before 6:00 PM. On
> the return we were given a number of re-routes which with the
> avionics, autopilot, and a good copilot/radio operator, were easy to
> handle. We also spent a little time in some rather rough building
> convective clouds. The airplane and autopilot performed well. In
> spite of 10-25 knot headwinds we still landed with an hour's fuel
> remaining.
>
> The airplane is fun to fly and performs well even at max weight and is
> a very productive transporter. Take your time, expand your comfort
> envelope cautiously, and then accept the compliments of friends and
> family with humility.
>
> Dick Sipp
> 40065 N110DV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Michael
Here is a link to the AFS3500 panel cutout: http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/Support/AF-3000support/AF-3400%20Dimensions.pdf
Here is a link to the AFS4500 panel cutout: http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/Support/AdvancedDeckSupport/ADVANCED%20deck%20AF-4500%20Install%20R1.pdf
I also suggest you place your switches and other miscellaneous bits and bobs on
your drawing so you get a sense of the overall effect.
Also consider what will go behind the panel and sub panel and where as well as
how you will access things after it is all installed. Installation is one thing,
maintainability is another - that thought is courtesy of John Cox.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5256#205256
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A dream come true |
I found Dick's original email with pics sent to the list last month
and forwarded it to John privately. It should be found in the
archives/forum from August 7 for others that wish to go back and look.
On Sat, Sep 20, 2008 at 12:06 AM, John Cox wrote:
> Di ck, in your humility do you have pictures of N110DV we can mutually
> enjoy?
>
>
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Perhaps the first or many wiring related questions |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Les,
I pulled my AoA tubing through individual snap bushings (SB375-4 I think) where
Van has his pitot tubing. Really not that hard to put in a new set of holes and
bushings and the tubes stay rigid by themselves. The snap bushings give just
enough resistance to keep everything in place.
For electrical conduit I drilled out Van's snap bushing run to take his corrugated
nylon tubing. You need the right size uni-bit and a nifty 12" drill bit extension
that fits the uni-bit shank from Home Depot. It's made by Ridgid and the
"chuck" is 3/4". It will follow a 3/4" uni-bit through a hole without a problem.
Van's conduit is corrugated so you need to use a vacuum to pull a string through
to get started. I replaced the string with a length of weed-eater line for future
use.
In the fuselage I used more of Van's tubing but also - as suggested by others on
this thread - thin wall irrigation tubing. The irrigation tubing has the advantage
of smooth insides so you can push a wire through. It's heavier but not
by much.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5274#205274
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
Initially I liked the thought of symmetry--main units centered over 'eyes' of pilot/copilot.
BUT decided (with help!!) on shifting left towards pilot. Dual
3500's set up for 4500s, 530w,sl30,330.trutrak between the 2 screens. By having
the second screen closer it is easily visible and useable. Turns out you
do use the 430/530 and autopilot a LOT and I would want them in my easy sight
and easy use without having to lean at all. It would be nice to have emergency
backup instruments where you have them but they may not fit there, and I would
set up panel for everyday work and use. The RV10 panel is wide and to reach
over to the far right knob on the Right EFIS is a reach on your panel. I would
think that you are going to use the 430/autopilot and the other EFIS more
often in flight than the 'centered' engine monitoring unit you show. Just my
thoughts after using the units in flight. If it's hard to use or you can't see
it easy you won't use it. NOTE--asked my copilot to look at your panel, and
with no prompting, she said that the right EFIS is too far to right, and radios
need to be closer!!!! and she's not even brainwashed!!! happy building/flying.
larry & gayle
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5286#205286
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant and Stein panel |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Bill,
I have Stein's panel with the set back center section i.e. not canted, but the
center section is 1" aft of the left and right sections. The throttle quadrant
also is 1" aft of standard, and there is plenty of cable length to reach my Airflow
Performance fuel controller. Not sure how it would work with other throttle
bodies.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5296#205296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant and Stein panel |
It looks like I have a Bendix fuel controller.
Right now, I'm working on dropping the quadrant down about 3/4" and
about 1/2" half aft and rotated 10 degrees. It looks like it gives me
just enough clearance from canted front end.
The thing that is still on my mind is someone's comment about having to
extend all the fittings on the cables as far as possible to reach the
various engine controls. But a 1/2" should be okay. We'll see.
Thanks.
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> I have Stein's panel with the set back center section i.e. not canted, but the
center section is 1" aft of the left and right sections. The throttle quadrant
also is 1" aft of standard, and there is plenty of cable length to reach my
Airflow Performance fuel controller. Not sure how it would work with other throttle
bodies.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5296#205296
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A dream come true |
It would be interesting to know how a dog's tolerance of reduced O2 compares
to humans.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 3:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A dream come true
Dick,
Nice motivating note.
I plan to fly with two, count them two dogs when my -10 is up and running.
We already have the Mutt Muffs for each but while at OSH this year I saw a
clear bag that goes over the dogs head fed by the ships O2 system. Seems
like a good idea for X-Country flight at altitude.
Any PIREPS by users would be appreciated.
Robin
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of richard sipp
Sent: Sat 9/20/2008 12:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: A dream come true
For those of you with mature flying airplanes disregard the following...you
already know.
For those still building or in early test flying your efforts will be
rewarded if you stick to your dreams of building and flying
the RV10.
My first attempt at building an experimental airplane was an RV4 that
provided 10 years and 700 hours of great fun and satisfaction.
The logic I used in deciding to build a 10 was to be able to still enjoy
flying a great handling airplane I might be able to build and exchange the
"Harley Davidson" of the line for an "SUV" that could be shared more
comfortably by the rest of the family and others. Instead of formation &
aerobatics, I hoped to find enjoyment in regaining the ability to fly in the
IFR system with state of the art avionics.
With the test phase complete and building confidence in the airplane &
Chelton EFIS/FMS system combined with the TruTrak autopilot in the IFR
system I can see that the above goals have been exceeded.
Part of the justification for the airplane was comfortable travel for the
family and the dog. So far all of the passengers have been very happy.
The dog (wearing her ear protection) sleeps through the whole trip and my
wife says we are going to visit everyone in the address book as long as the
money holds out.
For example, we took a weekend trip from central MI to southern IL in 2:30,
normally a 10 hour drive. While there we took a side trip with 4 folks for
dinner at
the Land between the Lakes in KY., thirty minutes each way, normally a 2+00
drive.
The next mission was to ferry two normal guys and one big dude plus some
tools and bags from central MI to an airport just south of the DCA ADIZ to
pick up an Acro Sport biplane one of them was purchasing. Flight time was
3+00 and fuel burn was 38 gallons. We spent several hours on the ground and
still arrived back in MI before 6:00 PM. On the return we were given a
number of re-routes which with the avionics, autopilot, and a good
copilot/radio operator, were easy to handle. We also spent a little time in
some rather rough building convective clouds. The airplane and autopilot
performed well. In spite of 10-25 knot headwinds we still landed with an
hour's fuel remaining.
The airplane is fun to fly and performs well even at max weight and is a
very productive transporter. Take your time, expand your comfort envelope
cautiously, and then accept the compliments of friends and family with
humility.
Dick Sipp
40065 N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New Dynon synthetic vision |
For you builders that have a year or better before you have to commit to
an avionics system, I suggest that you go to dynonavionics.com and click
on the upper left "next generation". This looks like a system that will
have all possible functions, at a reasonable price. I have a Dynon
system in my RV-8, and it has operated flawlessly. Their policy of free
software upgrades, and non-obsolescence of older hardware, is now
joined with a policy of trade-in's for earlier products to customers
that want to upgrade. This is a company that's big enough that it should
be around awhile to support your investment, unlike some vendors.
I don't work for, or have any affiliation with the company, but I
appreciate a company that supports their customers as well as Dynon,
without squeezing every last cent from you.
Tru-trak has also provided an excellent upgrade policy to their
customers, as I have traded-up my autopilot with them twice. However,
for the price of a Sorcerer, you can buy a complete 2 (6 Inch) screen,
dual AHRS, efis system, including engine/systems monitoring, with a full
function two axis autopilot from Dynon. How refreshing.
Chris Hukill
finishing all the baggage compartment mods
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller |
I'm getting ready to mount 2 of these in an RV10 - There are (6) 9/32"
holes in them for mounting and I just can't figure out what hardware
should be used. Or what was intended.
Bill Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller |
I used 4 AN3 bolts with nut plates.
-----Original Message-----
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller
I'm getting ready to mount 2 of these in an RV10 - There are (6) 9/32"
holes in them for mounting and I just can't figure out what hardware
should be used. Or what was intended.
Bill Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller |
I made this bracket to support both lr3C's and a dimmer in the middle.- K
ind of hard to picture where this is, but the pic is the upper-forward in
str panel, flipped over.
Don
--- On Sun, 9/21/08, MauleDriver wrote:
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller
Date: Sunday, September 21, 2008, 3:09 PM
I'm getting ready to mount 2 of these in an RV10 - There are (6) 9/32"
holes in them for mounting and I just can't figure out what hardware
should be used. Or what was intended.
Bill Watson
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | V-8 RV-10 Engine Run |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uao4lJrwnk
Just saw this on Youtube.
Don't know if it has been posted yet.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Adapting SJ mainwheel pant for RV10 size nosewheel |
Folks,
Since I operate primarily out of grass strips here on the DelMarVa peninsula, I
have fitted a larger nosewheel (thanks to Bill Knott - he has the fork project)
and put larger tires on my mainwheels.
I took one of my original mainwheel pants (that I bought before I decided to make
the tires larger) and:
Drew the waterline in the wheelpant - this gives me the optimal flight level alignment.
Cut out the bottom tire hole based on maingear fitment.
Put the mudshield in the rear half (per original instructions).
Cut the nosebowl off the front.
Flanged the nosebowl cutout to allow reattachment of the nosebowl.
Match drilled nosebowl to flange.
Nutplated the flange on each side.
Countersunk nosebowl attach holes.
Attach original front part to original rear part permanently.
Drilled the axle hole (per original instructions).
Cut nosegearleg pivot hole in top of pant and nosebowl (hole is too big).
With the aircraft in flight attitude - determine where attach brackets fit to pant.
Using Van's new stock RV6A nosewheel pant brackets - bent the top set of tabs on
each side to a more vertical alignment.
Laid-up six layers of BID tape to each side where the upper brackets would be attached.
Filed out axle hole to reposition axle 1/4" forward and 1/16" higher (to allow
for smaller nosegearleg pivot hole)
With the aircraft in flight attitude - drill pant through to attach bracket tops.
Nutplate the upper bracket attach points
Countersink the pant to bracket attach holes.
I still need to:
Modify the lower bracket attach points (cut off old flange and add new flange that
sticks out further).
Lay up six layers of BID where the lower brackets will attach.
Drill pant to lower flange.
Nutplate lower flange.
Countersink lower flange attach holes.
Close up the oversize nosegearleg pivot hole.
What I would do differently:
Start by repositioning the axle hole from the start instead of figuring it out
later.
Cut the nosebowl further aft so it will go around the brackets easier.
Here's what it looks like
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Spinner cut-out diagram |
RV-10'rs:
Attached is a file that will save you a lot of time. It is the cut-out dia
gram for the RV-10 Spinner when using a new Hartzell Prop. I cut mine befo
re receiving an answer to my request. What amazes me is how close we came
by using a cardboard cutout and pretty much guessing on the amount of defle
ction.
Tim and others: this is a great file to add to your web-sites! I am also
sending to the Matronics Picture e-mail site.
Pete #40100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller |
I'll probably use a couple of AN3 bolts too.
I called Bill at B&C and he explained that the 6 large holes are there
to facilitate replacement installations in various other aircraft.
I just wanted to see if I was missing something - I wasn't.
and thanks for the pic Don.
Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> I used 4 AN3 bolts with nut plates.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 6:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: What did you use to mount B&C's LR3C controller
>
>
> I'm getting ready to mount 2 of these in an RV10 - There are (6) 9/32"
> holes in them for mounting and I just can't figure out what hardware
> should be used. Or what was intended.
>
> Bill Watson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing |
Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs. the one
you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice. This will
cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The one you see
in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger and pumps
the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over ice. IIRC
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing
PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is
much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
ones sold for airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | eMag/pMag issues |
If anyone is considering using any of the eMag products, I strongly sugge
st you do your research. I have heard of frequent problems and failures of
them over the years and have had discussions with some of you relaying wha
t I have heard from others. Marc Zeitlin and others have had quite a bit o
f discussion lately on the Cozy builders list and some of that discussion h
as trickled over into the Aeroelectric and other lists and I felt it was pe
rtinent for any of you that are interested in Emagair.
Below are a couple of links to discussions on this subject. Marc has doc
umented his experience and discussions with others on the Cozy builders web
site. If you don't know Marc he has the credentials to backup what he says
having graduated from MIT and working as an ME for upwards of 30 years inc
luding currently working on SS2/WK2 for Scaled.
I have no hunt in this but I know some of you have been very interested i
n the upcoming 6cyl version. Read the following items, do your research, m
ake your decisions accordingly. Be safe!
Michael
http://www.cozybuilders.org/Emagair_Warning/
http://www.maddyhome.com/cozysrch/ search for "emagair"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling via Ice Chest |
That is correct although it has an internal tray that holds the ice up out
of the melt water. You can then select 'icy breeze', 'water mister', or just
fan only. The ice doesn't last long depending on how cold the ice was to
begin with but it only needs to last until OAT drops. It's small enough to
fit between the seats and as PIC I require that the 'icy breeze' be directed
towards me. I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could drink
the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs. the
one you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice. This
will cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The one
you see in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger
and pumps the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over ice.
IIRC
Michael
-----Original Message-----
PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is
much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
ones sold for airplanes.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling via Ice Chest |
That is correct although it has an internal tray that holds the ice up out
of the melt water. You can then select 'icy breeze', 'water mister', or just
fan only. The ice doesn't last long depending on how cold the ice was to
begin with but it only needs to last until OAT drops. It's small enough to
fit between the seats and as PIC I require that the 'icy breeze' be directed
towards me. I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could drink
the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs. the
one you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice. This
will cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The one
you see in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger
and pumps the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over ice.
IIRC
Michael
-----Original Message-----
PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is
much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
ones sold for airplanes.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Go visit your local drop zone and see if you can rent a pilot's chute. A
ll pilots of drop planes where parachutes, usually flat packs which make it
easy to wear in our type of aircraft while flying.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: eMag/pMag issues
Aircraft Spruce sells parachutes. I used one for the test period on my 10.
It is one of the few aircraft you could actually use a parachute without a
lot of special rigging to get rid of the door.Mine is a National 425. Kind
of pricey but if needed priceless.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear Intersecting Fairing |
This is the area that an intersection fairing would have to cover and
allow
for gear movement. For what it's worth, in order to get my lower cowl
off
with a 3 blade prop I find it easiest to pull the tail down letting the
nose
gear drop and providing additional clearance for the cowl.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling via Ice Chest |
It all goes back to the question: It's not how many horsepower you
have, not how many gallons your wingtip tanks will hold - it's how big
's your bladder........
Dr Fred
DAR inspection ....... Wednesday
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> That is correct although it has an internal tray that holds the ice up out
> of the melt water. You can then select 'icy breeze', 'water mister', or just
> fan only. The ice doesn't last long depending on how cold the ice was to
> begin with but it only needs to last until OAT drops. It's small enough to
> fit between the seats and as PIC I require that the 'icy breeze' be directed
> towards me. I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
> feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could drink
> the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs. the
> one you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice. This
> will cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The one
> you see in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger
> and pumps the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over ice.
> IIRC
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
> provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that is
> much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
> rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
> ones sold for airplanes.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Cooling via Ice Chest |
Dr Fed
Your so right!!!!!!
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cooling via Ice Chest
It all goes back to the question: It's not how many horsepower you
have, not how many gallons your wingtip tanks will hold - it's how big
's your bladder........
Dr Fred
DAR inspection ....... Wednesday
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> That is correct although it has an internal tray that holds the ice up out
> of the melt water. You can then select 'icy breeze', 'water mister', or
just
> fan only. The ice doesn't last long depending on how cold the ice was to
> begin with but it only needs to last until OAT drops. It's small enough to
> fit between the seats and as PIC I require that the 'icy breeze' be
directed
> towards me. I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
> feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could
drink
> the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs.
the
> one you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice.
This
> will cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The
one
> you see in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger
> and pumps the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over
ice.
> IIRC
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
> provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that
is
> much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
> rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
> ones sold for airplanes.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling via Ice Chest |
I agree....Not much more than two hours for me....
Good luck on your inspection.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cooling via Ice Chest
It all goes back to the question: It's not how many horsepower you
have, not how many gallons your wingtip tanks will hold - it's how big
's your bladder........
Dr Fred
DAR inspection ....... Wednesday
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> That is correct although it has an internal tray that holds the ice up out
> of the melt water. You can then select 'icy breeze', 'water mister', or
just
> fan only. The ice doesn't last long depending on how cold the ice was to
> begin with but it only needs to last until OAT drops. It's small enough to
> fit between the seats and as PIC I require that the 'icy breeze' be
directed
> towards me. I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
> feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could
drink
> the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Al can confirm this but I think the big difference in the Cabellas vs.
the
> one you see at OSH is that the Cabellas simply blows air over the ice.
This
> will cause a lot of humidity and burn through the ice much faster. The
one
> you see in OSH is actually a closed loop system that uses a heat exchanger
> and pumps the cold water through that rather than just blowing air over
ice.
> IIRC
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> PS: after seeing the small ice chests sold at Oshkosh and elsewhere to
> provide some cooling in the cabin I found a tent cooler at Cabellas that
is
> much cheaper. Fits between the rear seats, blows cool air forward, runs on
> rechargeable batteries or a 12v plugin. Only $80 and far cheaper than the
> ones sold for airplanes.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
look up mini softie or softy parachute.
From: rvbuilder(at)sausen.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comDate: Mon=2C 22 Sep 20
Go visit your local drop zone and see if you can rent a pilot=92s chute.
All pilots of drop planes where parachutes=2C usually flat packs which mak
e it easy to wear in our type of aircraft while flying.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeillSent: Monday=2C September 22=2C 200
8 4:07 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: eMag/pMag issue
s
Aircraft Spruce sells parachutes. I used one for the test period on my 10.
It is one of the few aircraft you could actually use a parachute without a
lot of special rigging to get rid of the door.Mine is a National 425. Kind
of pricey but if needed priceless.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling via Ice Chest |
Zero ice weight for dry ice...... :)
I haven't weighed it with a full ice load but I think by the
feel it's going to be well under 18lbs. After the ice melts you could drink
the melt water and then the weight wouldn't count, would it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cooling via Ice Chest |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
Well Albert, you got me to thinking - it is true that chilling your ice below 0
C will give you a little more cooling, but just a little more, because it takes
to much more heat to melt a given quantity of ice than it does to merely raise
the temperature. The specific heat of ice is about 0.5 cal/g, the latent heat
of fusion is 80 cal/g. So, if you cool your ice in the freezer to -20 C (which
is a very cold household freezer), it requires just 10 cal to warm each gram
of ice to the melting point, but another 80 cal to actually melt it. So, in
round figures, you gain only about 10% by chilling the ice. The things I find
interesting...... [Wink]
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5609#205609
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
I've heard, but can't find documentation that the word "experimental" is required
on the interior of our planes.
I'm not talking about the panel placard but on either interior of door, baggage
bulkhead or similar location.
If this is true, is there any specific size or style of lettering required? Source
of requirement?
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5611#205611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
It is true, I put mine on my doors, upside down so it is readable when the
person enters the plane.....
Plug for Abbey.......she did a great job of sewing it on my door
upholstery...she knew what size to make it, so you guessed it, I don't. You
always learn from doing.....no so much from paying to have it done.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 7:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte
I've heard, but can't find documentation that the word "experimental" is
required on the interior of our planes.
I'm not talking about the panel placard but on either interior of door,
baggage bulkhead or similar location.
If this is true, is there any specific size or style of lettering required?
Source of requirement?
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5611#205611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
As with anything in the FAR's, it's there and worded very specifically.
The placard you're asking about is in section (b). I do believe
that although many people get away with putting it on the rear
passenger armrest area, or on the bulkhead wall in the baggage
area, those are actually not in conformance and not meeting the
intention, which is to inform people as they board.
See below: "Near the entrance"
FAR Sec. 45.23
Display of marks; general.
(a) Each operator of an aircraft shall display on that aircraft marks
consisting of the Roman capital letter "N" (denoting United States
registration) followed by the registration number of the aircraft. Each
suffix letter used in the marks displayed must also be a Roman capital
letter.
[(b) When marks include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the
registration number is displayed on limited, restricted or light-sport
category aircraft or experimental or provisionally certificated
aircraft, the operator must also display on that aircraft near each
entrance to the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station, in letters not less
than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches high, the words "limited,"
"restricted," "light-sport," "experimental," or "provisional," as
applicable.]
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
tomhanaway wrote:
>
>
> I've heard, but can't find documentation that the word "experimental"
> is required on the interior of our planes.
>
> I'm not talking about the panel placard but on either interior of
> door, baggage bulkhead or similar location.
>
> If this is true, is there any specific size or style of lettering
> required? Source of requirement?
>
> Thanks, Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5611#205611
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
That was quick,
Thanks.
Since Abby at Flightline is doing my interior, I'll go with the doors.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5623#205623
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Since I was doing a custom interior, I didn't really want to use the standard "Experimental"
sticker or the size of the letters. I checked with EAA about the
FAR and what is really required. They told me the wording has to be at all
passenger entrances into the aircraft. The great thing I found out was that the
only size requirement for the EXERIMENTAL is it has to be at least 2" tall
and not taller than 6". This was perfect. I used my computer and condensed the
wording down to a 6" length but still had the 2" height. A wood placard was
made with the lettering engraved in it and will be inset into the upper interior
door panel. I attached some pictures on what I did.
Greg Hale
N210KH
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5624#205624
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_2053_218.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_placard_192.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cooling via Ice Chest |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Albert,
Sometimes I can't tell yet when you guys are spoofing, but just in case I'll pass
this along. Just this last week I heard of two guys that died because they
kept dry ice in their tent and the CO2 got them. Probably lots of ventilation
in the plane, CO2 sensors, etc. but I don't think I'd use dry ice.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5629#205629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
Thanks for the great idea.- I have a friend who does engraving.- Was no
t looking forward to sticking that god awful looking sticker on each door.
- I'll have him make up some nice looking aluminum pacards about the same
size you made.- He can do them in most colors.- Anyone else interested
, let me know.- I attached one of my HUGE pics, sorry, haven't had time t
o do the conversion.... it's one he made for my cabin heat, emerg brake and
alt air.
Don
--- On Mon, 9/22/08, greghale wrote:
From: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte
Date: Monday, September 22, 2008, 6:58 PM
Since I was doing a custom interior, I didn't really want to use the
standard "Experimental" sticker or the size of the letters. I checked
with EAA about the FAR and what is really required. They told me the wordi
ng
has to be at all passenger entrances into the aircraft. The great thing I
found
out was that the only size requirement for the EXERIMENTAL is it has to be
at
least 2" tall and not taller than 6". This was perfect. I used my
computer and condensed the wording down to a 6" length but still had the
2" height. A wood placard was made with the lettering engraved in it and
will be inset into the upper interior door panel. I attached some pictures
on
what I did.
Greg Hale
N210KH
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5624#205624
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_2053_218.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_placard_192.jpg
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adapting SJ mainwheel pant for RV10 size nosewheel |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Ralph,
Did you go up to something like a Bonanza 7.00-8?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5701#205701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
On page 27-2 step 6 it has you dimple all the rivet holes. In step 7 it
has you rivet everything and it tells you two of the nut plates are to
go on the forward side of the firewall. I have dimpled all these to be
flush on the forward side. What do I do with these two nut plates now
that the holes are dimpled for a flush mounting on the forward side.
Rob Hunter
40432
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adapting SJ mainwheel pant for RV10 size nosewheel |
John,
The changes are on my 6A - posted here for the benefit of the -10 crowd wanting
a SJ type nosewheel pant.
My original nosewheel was a Matco 501.25 rim with 11 inch tire and the mains 5x5
- with me operating primarily from a grass strip - I wanted something bigger
all around.
The nose now has a 5x5 and the mains are upgraded with 380x15x5 (essentially a
6x6 tire on e 5x5 rim).
I already had the SJ mainwheel pants for the stock size so it was an easy decision.
I got a set of 6x6 pants for my new mains.
Hope this helps,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Sep 23, 2008 10:50 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Adapting SJ mainwheel pant for RV10 size nosewheel
>
>
>Ralph,
>Did you go up to something like a Bonanza 7.00-8?
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5701#205701
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
Linn,
I agree, the wording isn't vague at all:
"the operator must also display on that aircraft near each entrance to
the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station,"
The baggage bulkhead isn't "near each entrance" unless perhaps
you're trying to conform for the baggage door entrance.
It's not a big pissing match, but I think that anything but
near the door neither meets the law technically, nor the
laws intent. If you can get away with it, or away with it
for a while, so be it.
I'm always amazed that people want to HIDE some of these things.
I mean, you're PROUD that you built the plane. Having that
word there not only ensures people know what they're getting
into when they board, but gives great awareness to people
who see it and they may just get interested in exactly what
makes your plane unique.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
linn Walters wrote:
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Why on the door? Mine is across the baggage aft bulkhead.
> Actually, the answer is below .....
>
> "They told me the wording has to be at all passenger entrances into the
> aircraft."
> In actuality, I think it says "must be visible to persons entering the
> aircraft" ..... I didn't look it up. When the NTSB looked at my Pitts
> (don't ask ... long story)the only 'experimental' visible was on the
> engraved data plate attached to the baggage compartment door .... behind
> the pilots head. There was discussion about it, but they accepted it.
> Being on the baggage bulkhead may meet the letter of the law, but I
> think it skirts the intent. When you (the collective 'you') do things
> like this, where the subject isn't specifically defined (the position of
> the label) ponder how you'd answer the question from a lawyer.
>
> Putting the "experimental" label on the door 'upside down' so it can be
> read getting into the plane makes it hard to miss, and is probably where
> mine will go, thanks to Greg.
> Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Rob,
Your gonna think I'm crazy but I'm sure everyone has done this at least once...redimple
it on the correct direction...
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 7:55:19 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall
On page 27-2 step 6 it has you dimple all the rivet holes. In step 7 it
has you rivet everything and it tells you two of the nut plates are to
go on the forward side of the firewall. I have dimpled all these to be
flush on the forward side. What do I do with these two nut plates now
that the holes are dimpled for a flush mounting on the forward side.
Rob Hunter
40432
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
I like it when the placard reads "does not meet the standards" and they add in
"It exceeds them" I think I saw that on Sam Bucahannan's RV..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:41:46 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte
Linn,
I agree, the wording isn't vague at all:
"the operator must also display on that aircraft near each entrance to
the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station,"
The baggage bulkhead isn't "near each entrance" unless perhaps
you're trying to conform for the baggage door entrance.
It's not a big pissing match, but I think that anything but
near the door neither meets the law technically, nor the
laws intent. If you can get away with it, or away with it
for a while, so be it.
I'm always amazed that people want to HIDE some of these things.
I mean, you're PROUD that you built the plane. Having that
word there not only ensures people know what they're getting
into when they board, but gives great awareness to people
who see it and they may just get interested in exactly what
makes your plane unique.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
linn Walters wrote:
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Why on the door? Mine is across the baggage aft bulkhead.
> Actually, the answer is below .....
>
> "They told me the wording has to be at all passenger entrances into the
> aircraft."
> In actuality, I think it says "must be visible to persons entering the
> aircraft" ..... I didn't look it up. When the NTSB looked at my Pitts
> (don't ask ... long story)the only 'experimental' visible was on the
> engraved data plate attached to the baggage compartment door .... behind
> the pilots head. There was discussion about it, but they accepted it.
> Being on the baggage bulkhead may meet the letter of the law, but I
> think it skirts the intent. When you (the collective 'you') do things
> like this, where the subject isn't specifically defined (the position of
> the label) ponder how you'd answer the question from a lawyer.
>
> Putting the "experimental" label on the door 'upside down' so it can be
> read getting into the plane makes it hard to miss, and is probably where
> mine will go, thanks to Greg.
> Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
you'll use them later. One of them to hold the hydraulic lines the other for
something else.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 7:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall
>
> On page 27-2 step 6 it has you dimple all the rivet holes. In step 7 it
> has you rivet everything and it tells you two of the nut plates are to
> go on the forward side of the firewall. I have dimpled all these to be
> flush on the forward side. What do I do with these two nut plates now
> that the holes are dimpled for a flush mounting on the forward side.
>
>
> Rob Hunter
> 40432
> Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
What can work is to pound them flat with the mushroom head on a back rivet plate
or the squeezer and then dimple them the correct way. So I've heard :)
What I found confusing on that step was whether or not to dimple the holes for
the oil cooler. The step said "rivet holes" and the oil cooler holes do eventually
get riveted.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5727#205727
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Maybe I shouldn't comment due to ignorance, this ain't my hunt, but it
seems to me that experienced aviation people already know that a
particular aircraft is EXP so the location of the placard really is not
THAT relevant. And, people who have not been exposed climb into an
airplane and are immediately in awe of all the gadgets, screens, gauges
and buttons on the panel. Seems to me the appropriate place is right
under their noses. I know that when I climb into an unfamiliar aircraft
(one I haven't been in before), I'm looking over the panel to see where
everything is located. With the placard on the panel I have NEVER not
seen it.
Allen B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required
on inte
I like it when the placard reads "does not meet the standards" and they
add in "It exceeds them" I think I saw that on Sam Bucahannan's RV..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 8:41:46 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required
on inte
Linn,
I agree, the wording isn't vague at all:
"the operator must also display on that aircraft near each entrance to
the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station,"
The baggage bulkhead isn't "near each entrance" unless perhaps
you're trying to conform for the baggage door entrance.
It's not a big pissing match, but I think that anything but
near the door neither meets the law technically, nor the
laws intent. If you can get away with it, or away with it
for a while, so be it.
I'm always amazed that people want to HIDE some of these things.
I mean, you're PROUD that you built the plane. Having that
word there not only ensures people know what they're getting
into when they board, but gives great awareness to people
who see it and they may just get interested in exactly what
makes your plane unique.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
linn Walters wrote:
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Why on the door? Mine is across the baggage aft bulkhead.
> Actually, the answer is below .....
>
> "They told me the wording has to be at all passenger entrances into
the
> aircraft."
> In actuality, I think it says "must be visible to persons entering the
> aircraft" ..... I didn't look it up. When the NTSB looked at my Pitts
> (don't ask ... long story)the only 'experimental' visible was on the
> engraved data plate attached to the baggage compartment door ....
behind
> the pilots head. There was discussion about it, but they accepted it.
> Being on the baggage bulkhead may meet the letter of the law, but I
> think it skirts the intent. When you (the collective 'you') do things
> like this, where the subject isn't specifically defined (the position
of
> the label) ponder how you'd answer the question from a lawyer.
>
> Putting the "experimental" label on the door 'upside down' so it can
be
> read getting into the plane makes it hard to miss, and is probably
where
> mine will go, thanks to Greg.
> Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
As a complete newcomer to aviation prior to ordering the RV10 in 11-06, I a
lways kind of thought there should be a 3rd category.- Certified, Experim
ental, and Non-certified.- It's not like the 10 is built by a couple of f
armers out back of Fred's barn, saying things like "hey, lets try it this t
ime without the tail".- Our 10's are a somewhat proven machine, we merely
are able to add, delete, and modify "stuff" that happens to be sometimes,
not TSO'd.- Ok, most of the time! As Rick always says "that's my 2 cents.
Besides, I can't beleive I will ever have someone as a paaenger in my plane
who doesn't already know exactly what the situation is.
Don McDonald
#40636 Finishing
om> wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on i
nte
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 8:41 AM
Linn,
I agree, the wording isn't vague at all:
"the operator must also display on that aircraft near each entrance to
the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station,"
The baggage bulkhead isn't "near each entrance" unless perhaps
you're trying to conform for the baggage door entrance.
It's not a big pissing match, but I think that anything but
near the door neither meets the law technically, nor the
laws intent. If you can get away with it, or away with it
for a while, so be it.
I'm always amazed that people want to HIDE some of these things.
I mean, you're PROUD that you built the plane. Having that
word there not only ensures people know what they're getting
into when they board, but gives great awareness to people
who see it and they may just get interested in exactly what
makes your plane unique.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
linn Walters wrote:
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Why on the door? Mine is across the baggage aft bulkhead.
> Actually, the answer is below .....
>
> "They told me the wording has to be at all passenger entrances into
the
> aircraft."
> In actuality, I think it says "must be visible to persons entering
the
> aircraft" ..... I didn't look it up. When the NTSB looked at my
Pitts
> (don't ask ... long story)the only 'experimental' visible was
on the
> engraved data plate attached to the baggage compartment door .... behind
> the pilots head. There was discussion about it, but they accepted it.
> Being on the baggage bulkhead may meet the letter of the law, but I
> think it skirts the intent. When you (the collective 'you') do
things
> like this, where the subject isn't specifically defined (the position
of
> the label) ponder how you'd answer the question from a lawyer.
>
> Putting the "experimental" label on the door 'upside
down' so it can be
> read getting into the plane makes it hard to miss, and is probably where
> mine will go, thanks to Greg.
> Linn
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
So I shouldn't fess up to who I had help me build this flying machine???
By the way, another timely post. Made up some decals today and will get
'em on the door tonight. Upside down. Will have to get the cows out
of the way first. We are in Texas. Everyone has their own cows.
Dr Fred. :-)
Don McDonald wrote:
> As a complete newcomer to aviation prior to ordering the RV10 in
> 11-06, I always kind of thought there should be a 3rd category.
> Certified, Experimental, and Non-certified. It's not like the 10 is
> built by a couple of farmers out back of Fred's barn, saying things
> like "hey, lets try it this time without the tail". Our 10's are a
> somewhat proven machine, we merely are able to add, delete, and modify
> "stuff" that happens to be sometimes, not TSO'd. Ok, most of the
> time! As Rick always says "that's my 2 cents.
> Besides, I can't beleive I will ever have someone as a paaenger in my
> plane who doesn't already know exactly what the situation is.
> Don McDonald
> #40636 Finishing
>
> */om>/* wrote:
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Standards for word "Experimental"
> required on inte
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 8:41 AM
>
>
> Linn,
>
> I agree, the wording isn't vague at all:
>
> "the operator must also display on that aircraft near each entrance to
> the cabin, cockpit, or pilot station,"
>
> The baggage bulkhead isn't "near each entrance" unless perhaps
> you're trying to conform for the baggage door entrance.
>
> It's not a big pissing match, but I think that anything but
> near the door neither meets the law technically, nor the
> laws intent. If you can get away with it, or away with it
> for a while, so be it.
>
> I'm always amazed that people want to HIDE some of these things.
> I mean, you're PROUD that you built the plane. Having that
> word there not only ensures people know what they're getting
> into when they board, but gives great awareness to people
> who see it and they may just get interested in exactly what
> makes your plane unique.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
> >
> > David McNeill wrote:
>
> >>
> >> Why on the door? Mine is across the baggage aft bulkhead.
> > Actually, the answer is below .....
> >
> > "They told me the wording has to be at all passenger entrances into
> the
> > aircraft."
> > In actuality, I think it says "must be visible to persons entering
> the
> > aircraft" ..... I didn't look it up. When the NTSB looked at my
> Pitts
> > (don't ask ... long story)the only 'experimental' visible was
> on the
> > engraved data plate attached to the baggage compartment door .... behind
> > the pilots head. There was discussion about it, but they accepted it.
> > Being on the baggage bulkhead may meet the letter of the law, but I
> > think it skirts the intent. When you (the collective 'you') do
> things
> > like this, where the subject isn't specifically defined (the position
> of
> > the label) ponder how you'd answer the question from a lawyer.
> >
> > Putting the "experimental" label on the door 'upside
> down' so it can be
> > read getting into the plane makes it hard to miss, and is probably where
> > mine will go, thanks to Greg.
> > Linn
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
reset the breaker.
DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
15 amp motors.
Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
Deems
not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
The problem is the startup current of the motor. The start winding
draws a lot of current getting up to speed where the run winding takes
over .... and uses less current. Typically the oilless compressors work
better, but you won't get the volume you're used to. It's a trade off.
The other problem is how far from the breaker box you are. Hangar
wiring is notoriously small .... the hangars were designed to house
airplanes .... not be manufacturing facilities. When we built new
hangars at my airport I inquired if we could increase the current
capability by paying a little more for the increased cost of the
wiring. Hangars are designed with a power density .... so much power
per sq. foot. I wanted 220 available for my big compressor and paid an
extra $150 for the addition, and it was drawn into the plans. It was
cooperation with the airport that made the difference.
Now for a little 'cheat' ...... typically hangars are wired so that
every other hangar is on the same leg of the 220. If you steal the hot
leg from the hangar next to you, and use your leg, you have 220 service,
and the 15A breakers will do just fine ...... unless you're on the
opposite end of the hangar from the breakers!
Linn
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
> 25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
> say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
> circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
> Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the
> compressor trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport
> service personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come
> out and reset the breaker.
> DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
> beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but
> it appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all
> come w/ 15 amp motors.
>
> Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
> 'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which
> will not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
>
>
> Deems
>
> not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
I have a Craftsman 2HP 25 gallon
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00919541000P same amps but never
has been an issue for me with a 15amp circuit and other electrical items
running on the same circuit.
You may want to assure that your CH is running alone with nothing else
running when you have it compress air. I turn my off "auto" and manually
select to have it load up again at my timing not whenever it feels it needs
it. The result is never a popped circuit.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 3:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
>
> I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a 25
> yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it say's
> draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage circuit,
> which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
> Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
> trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service personnel
> are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and reset the
> breaker.
> DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way beyond
> my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it appears
> that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/ 15 amp
> motors.
>
> Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
> 'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
> not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
>
>
> Deems
>
> not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Have them replace the breaker with 20 amp, it should be 12-2 wire and plenty enough
to handle the load plus the breaker may be shot anyhow
------Original Message------
From: Deems Davis
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Sep 23, 2008 3:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
reset the breaker.
DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
15 amp motors.
Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
Deems
not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Hmm, Home Depot has Husky 30 gal that is what I am using..but I have
20 amp circuit at the hangar, but I also am running all the lights on
same circuit. Lowes has equivalent Kobalt. Both are oil lubed, belt
driven compressors that I think have much lower starting current than
the oil-free pumps.
On Tue, Sep 23, 2008 at 6:38 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a 25 yr
> old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it say's draws
> 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage circuit, which I
> 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
> Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
> trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service personnel
> are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and reset the
> breaker.
> DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way beyond my
> understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it appears that
> most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/ 15 amp motors.
>
> Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be 'fixed'
> to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will not trip?
> What are you guys using at the hangar?
>
>
> Deems
>
> not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Not at most city owned hangars. It isn't uncommon for more than one
hangar to share a breaker, and wiring often is 14-2. They are not
interested in increasing capacity for owners. However, Deems, at DVT
there are relatively new outlets on the shades in front of the hangars
and they may be higher capacity.
On Tue, Sep 23, 2008 at 7:17 PM, wrote:
>
> Have them replace the breaker with 20 amp, it should be 12-2 wire and plenty
enough to handle the load plus the breaker may be shot anyhow
> ------Original Message------
> From: Deems Davis
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Sep 23, 2008 3:38 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
>
>
> I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
> 25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
> say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
> circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
> Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
> trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
> personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
> reset the breaker.
> DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
> beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
> appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
> 15 amp motors.
>
> Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
> 'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
> not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
>
>
> Deems
>
> not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Boy, this discussion really makes us sound like a bunch of sneeky old men..
.. oh, I guess we are!- I have a compressor I bought at Home Depot, can't
remember which one, but it has 3 speeds.- So you could find which speed
you can use without tripping the breaker.- My- hanger has a junction bo
x in the center overhead.- When I openned it up, I found that they had te
rminated all the wires with wire ties that lead to the rest of the hangers
down the line.- So naturally I tied into one of them, and now I have 2 20
amp services.... one for each side of the hanger.-- Don
--- On Tue, 9/23/08, ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrot
e:
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 4:17 PM
Have them replace the breaker with 20 amp, it should be 12-2 wire and plent
y
enough to handle the load plus the breaker may be shot anyhow
------Original Message------
From: Deems Davis
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Sep 23, 2008 3:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been
using a
25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
reset the breaker.
DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
15 amp motors.
Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
Deems
not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Deams
Do not change the breaker to 20 amp. the wire in hanger is problem 14-2
wire rated gauge. a 20 amp circuit would have a 12-2 wire rated gauge, as
stated by others this could cause a fire or trips from motor starts (higher amp
pulls). Deams your 25 yr old compressor might be the problem. 1) I would drain
& change the compressor oil to lower viscosity (buy @ homedepot or sears).
2) check belt tension. to tight this will cause higher startup amps ( need
amp meter to check) look @ motor plate to find runnning amps. hope this can
help if not recommend electrican or just buy newer compressor.
Dave Ludd
40466 NJ,
In a message dated 9/23/2008 5:40:47 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
deemsdavis(at)cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
reset the breaker.
DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
15 amp motors.
Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
Deems
not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and
calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Before I was in the aircraft building business, I purchased a small pancake
type of compressor used to build a deck. It's an oil less with only about
6 gal of capacity. I just checked it only draws 10 amps. While it wouldn't
be good for general building, it may be good enough to get you by in the
hangar.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 6:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
I'm moving the 'shop' from the garage to the hangar. I've been using a
25 yr old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor which has a motor which it
say's draws 15 amps @ 115VAC . It would frequently trip the garage
circuit, which I 'patched' by putting in a larger (20A) breaker.
Well, the electric service to the hangar is 15 amps, and the compressor
trips the breaker every time it plugged in. The airport service
personnel are getting annoyed at me calling for them to come out and
reset the breaker.
DC electricity was/is a challenge to me, so this AC stuff is way
beyond my understanding. I looked at Lowes for a new compressor, but it
appears that most of the ones suitable to run the air tools all come w/
15 amp motors.
Anybody got any suggestions ? Can the motor on my old compressor be
'fixed' to not trip the breaker, can it be replaced with one which will
not trip? What are you guys using at the hangar?
Deems
not so patiently waiting on my painter...............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Thanks to all who provided suggestions, both on and off-line. My plan is:
1. check/service the old compressor (change oil and re- tension belt)
2. Investigate alternative power options with Airport maintenance. KDVT
is the busiest general aviation airport in the US and is owned and
operated by the City of Phoenix, they have a 3 year waiting list to get
into hangars , and set of rules that would choke a horse, enforced by
annual and periodic random inspections. All of which seems to have
turned the notion of being serice/servant to the public on it ear.
3. Obtain a light duty compressor for hangar use. And move 'Ol Reliable
back home.
Thanks
Deems
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Hey Deems
The Nut Tree airport in Northern California is the same way. There
maintenance man is like a little Hitler and will bust your chops on any rule
violation he can see or sniff out.
The hangers are privately or county owned with a set of rules that an
attorney very proud of. And no they do not allow any experimental building
in the hangers. A kit does not constitute a airplane, and it will not
qualify for a hanger, it must be a registered airworthy airplane to qualify
for a hanger. The waiting list is over 4 yrs now. So ya do everything ya
can to keep the hanger ya have.
John
40864 Rubber inprocess.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 5:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker
Thanks to all who provided suggestions, both on and off-line. My plan is:
1. check/service the old compressor (change oil and re- tension belt)
2. Investigate alternative power options with Airport maintenance. KDVT
is the busiest general aviation airport in the US and is owned and
operated by the City of Phoenix, they have a 3 year waiting list to get
into hangars , and set of rules that would choke a horse, enforced by
annual and periodic random inspections. All of which seems to have
turned the notion of being serice/servant to the public on it ear.
3. Obtain a light duty compressor for hangar use. And move 'Ol Reliable
back home.
Thanks
Deems
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air compressor tripping circuit breaker |
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> OK, all you EE majors weigh in here.
>
> Do you know if you have more than one circuit in your hanger?
> If so, buy a couple of plugs and wire them together in parallel, then
> into a female plug end.
>
> I think this should give you 120 volts and 30 amps. Blast me if I'm
> wrong here.
> This could be the cheapest solution.
Well, this can get you hurt. Funny story. Might have been sad. My Dad
had need for higher current to his ham shack for his new linear. He
followed your same reasoning ..... just parallel them. His panel was
the old kind with two fuses (picture 3" long, 1/2" dia) in a block that
plugged into his panel. So, his idea was to wrap a piece of wire around
one end of the block, put the fuses back in and ..... I told him it
wouldn't work that way. Here it comes: "Of course it will, son!!!"
Well, I talked him into wrapping a towel around his hand (gloves would
have been better) but couldn't talk him our of his 'experiment'. The
noise when he plugged that into the panel was like a .45 going off close
by. Really loud in that garage!!!! The inside of the fuse block had
this nice copper finish to it. He still didn't understand what was
wrong with his ohms law logic ..... and there wasn't any. He shorted
the two legs of the 220 together. It's the simple mistakes that you pay
so dearly for.
Even if he had been successful, the wiring would still have been too
small, and could have resulted in fire. So, if you want to play
electrician, get some training first. If you're in a hurry ..... spend
the money on an electrician. You'll possibly save a whole bundle on
hospital bills ..... if you survive. I made my living guiding electrons
around, and the nasty b......s will turn and bite you in a heartbeat. I
just want you folks to be safe.
I'll bet that Rick has seen some pretty stupid stuff with his work .....
maybe he'll chime in.
>
> If not, buy an oil less compressor. I run my Sears compressor on 15
> amps all the time.
It depends on just how far you are from the breaker box too. Buy one
where you know you can return it.
>
> If you don't have two circuits steal one from the next door neighbor
> and just run an extension cord over to you place.
Again, you might be lucky ..... or you might let the magic smoke out.
Magic smoke will not work exposed to the atmosphere. Your best and
safest route is to get a buddy or electrician that's knowledgeable ....
and has the tools .... such as a meter ..... to help on this project.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
| From: | "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> |
I have been developing these handles and now have a prototype ready to be manufactured.
They will be precision machined and will replace the existing handle
on the RV-10.
If you are interested in these handles, here is what has to be done. The new handle
operates the lock exactly like the factory handle. I will need your factory
lock mechanisms as parts will be modified to fit the new handle. You can
send me the locks built up or as a kit of parts. You will receive the locks
back as a built assembly. Again, the lock will work exactly as the factory set
up.
Below is a link to some pictures of the prototype as well as a picture of what
I need from you. NOTE: I do not need the rack gears, but I do need the pinion.
http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com/
Click on "Door Handles" for the pics.
The price is $200.00 for two handle ready to install in your aircraft plus $10.00
for shipping.
Thanks for looking,
Dave Nellis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5993#205993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Guys;
I've only been flying for four years now, but I have never ever heard
anyone say that we have too many hangars and we can't rent them all
out. I live in a town of 30 thousand and we have a 20 person waiting
list. All the EAA newsletters and publications are always concerned
about the meager growth of general aviation. Have they ever considered
a campaign to work with the local airports to have reasonable rules and
make it easy to build more hangars? It seems to me like the demand is
there, but who wants to invest in a 100K + airplane, put several years
of work in it and then ....... well you can tie it down on the ramp for
$75 /month. Seems like a better way to support general aviation would
be to make a void of hangars that need to be filled. Everyone would
benefit.
Anybody on the list have any pull with the EAA?
Just my 2 cents.
Dr Fred.
DAR visit completed and signed off. I now "officially" have an airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
The problems are the local municipalities. A few years ago I offered to
build some T hangars at my local airport where the waiting list is 8 years+.
The response was OK but after 25 or 35 years the hangars become city
property. I had no intention of making an investment only to have the city
confiscate it. My residual assets are for my heirs. Bureaucrats get greedy
so let the FAA and city fund the hangars. Besides, when the FAA funds are
involved, the rates are lower than market for equivalent space.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 6:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hangars
-->
Guys;
I've only been flying for four years now, but I have never ever heard anyone
say that we have too many hangars and we can't rent them all out. I live in
a town of 30 thousand and we have a 20 person waiting list. All the EAA
newsletters and publications are always concerned about the meager growth of
general aviation. Have they ever considered a campaign to work with the
local airports to have reasonable rules and make it easy to build more
hangars? It seems to me like the demand is there, but who wants to invest
in a 100K + airplane, put several years of work in it and then ....... well
you can tie it down on the ramp for
$75 /month. Seems like a better way to support general aviation would
be to make a void of hangars that need to be filled. Everyone would
benefit.
Anybody on the list have any pull with the EAA?
Just my 2 cents.
Dr Fred.
DAR visit completed and signed off. I now "officially" have an airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Hello, I have a flywheel and contactors for a hot prop setup from IO540
C4B5, I need a plain flywheel without the contactor rings on it for my plane, so
if anyone is planning or think you might want to add a hot prop in the future
wanna trade flywheels? Contact me offlist im7shannon(at)aol.com
Thanks
Kevin Shannon
HRII N450KS
55 hours flying
**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and
calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
| From: | "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> |
I did some shopping today and as a result, I can lower the price to $175.00 for
the pair, mated to your lock mechanism.
Dave
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6239#206239
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Botton Wing Skins |
I anybody who has installed the bottom wing skin will agree it is not one of
the more pleasant or easiest job in the construction of an aluminum
aircraft. The RV 10 is no exception and the task is fraught with opportunity
to make the unsightly blemishes. At least for me the stiffener was the area
of greatest difficulty when I did the right wing. On the left wing I back
riveted the stiffener. This made the job of riveting the bottom skin much
easier and quicker. For those of you who have not reached this step yet you
might want to consider this method. Also remember that the spar line will
have to be trimmed about 1/16 because it is too wide or you will get
pillowing or oil canning. At least it was on my kit.
Wayne
F1 Rocket (280 hours)
Checked by AVG.
6:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
Ok, I'm game.- Can you spell out for us exactly what we need to send to y
ou, and where to send it. Also what the turnaround time might be???- Do y
ou market other products?- Have you seen the shoulder harness bracket and
headset bracket I have offered for the RV10?
Thanks, Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 9/25/08, truflite wrote:
From: truflite <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles
Date: Thursday, September 25, 2008, 8:39 PM
I did some shopping today and as a result, I can lower the price to $175.00
for
the pair, mated to your lock mechanism.
Dave
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6239#206239
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
David I looked at the pics and was trying to work out the advantage of your
lock? Is it a visual thing only?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles
>
> I did some shopping today and as a result, I can lower the price to
> $175.00 for the pair, mated to your lock mechanism.
>
> Dave
>
> --------
> David Nellis
> 7A Slider
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6239#206239
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
| From: | "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> |
Pictures are available at:
http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com/ Click on door handles. There are two pics of the prototype. The third pic shows what I need to have from you, minus the racks. I will need the pinion gear. Basically, I need the entire lock mechanism for both doors, either in parts or built up. You will receive the locks back built up and ready to install.
Send the locks and $175.00 plus $10.00 shipping to
David Nellis
46293 Jasmine Court
Chesterfield Township, MI 48047
(586)329-3931
I need to have at least 10 sets ordered to get this price. Turnaround time should
be about 1 month or slightly less. If I get less orders than 10, I will return
your check, no questions or fees.
I have not seen your brackets, but I would be interested in seeing them.
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6255#206255
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Aluminum Inside Door Handles |
| From: | "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net> |
Chris,
This is in response to few builders that do not like the simplistic look of the
door handles. My handles are made for aesthetic or cosmetic reasons. They will
function with the lock the same as the factory setup.
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6257#206257
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nice engine out landing video (RV-4) |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
http://www.rv-4.de/video/RV_Power_off.wmv
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6263#206263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nice engine out landing video (RV-4) |
Over a glider no-less!
For people who have done that, is there a difference between a stopped prop and
just at idle you think?
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 3:38:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Nice engine out landing video (RV-4)
http://www.rv-4.de/video/RV_Power_off.wmv
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6263#206263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone have a picture of a 'powered' rudder trim for an RV-10 install?
I'd like to take a look at how folks did it while I'm working on the rudder.
Thanks....
--
David W. Schaefer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Tim has some on his site..the RV-10 bible:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071104/index.html
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 9:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
Does anyone have a picture of a 'powered' rudder trim for an RV-10 install?
I'd like to take a look at how folks did it while I'm working on the rudder.
Thanks....
--
David W. Schaefer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David J. Fritzsche" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | 51% Rule Interpretation |
Have you written you letter yet? Don't procrastinate any longer. Here
is my contribution for whatever it is worth.
I am very concerned that the rule interpretation proposed by the FAA
will create a bureaucratic obfuscation of the 51 percent rule to the
extent that it will discourage many potential builders and inhibit
technological developments of current and future builders. To establish
a clear delineation between fabrication and assembly is impossible. To
force such a distinction will result in builders following much more
conservative practices to insure that their aircraft will meet the 51
percent rule thus eliminating much of the dynamic development that has
been a hallmark of the experimental world. This would be a great loss
to the aviation industry.
Requiring each task in building an aircraft to be designated as either
fabrication or assembly would require extensive documentation of these
tasks creating a mountain of paperwork which at best could only be given
a cursory review by the FAA. Creative people are not known to have the
inclination or the time to spend on documentation. Thus this
interpretation would likely drive some very bright people into other
avenues of development than aviation.
If the FAA is concerned about cheating on the 51 percent rule, it should
tighten up enforcement of the existing rule. It has worked well for 55
years. If there is a problem now, update the enforcement, not the rule
that has served us well for so long.
I am an A & P who has not practiced since 1965 due to a change in my
career plans. I have recently retired and am in the process of building
an RV-10. It will be a fine airplane and I will certainly put in more
than 51 percent of the effort to make this aircraft airworthy. The
project is an excellent refresher and I am updating my knowledge of
aircraft construction and equipment; e.g. we did not use fiberglass in
the early '60s.
There were 20 RV-10s lined up at AirVenture this year. While the RV-10
is a recent, standard kit, no two of the RV-10s were the same. Each was
altered to meet the needs and dreams of the builder(s). Some
alterations were minor and some were major, but all demonstrated the
spirit of experimental in aviation.
Sincerely,
David J. Fritzsche
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
David J. Fritzsche
Professor, Retired
Penn State
E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
Professor, Retired
Penn State
E-mail: fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/RudderTrim.htm
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Bill O'Brien |
Just got an e-mail from AMT Online, in it was this attachment. Any of
you that are IA's have undoubtebly heard of him, some of you may know
him.
Prayers for Bill
AMTA
I am writing to you all to inform you of some sad news and I would
like to ask for your assistance. I have been told that Bill O'Brien is
in the hospital and he is in very bad shape. Many of you know Bill and
what he has done for our craft. For those of you who do not know Bill
let me just say that he is certainly one of a kind. Bill recently
retired from the FAA after a long career of championing the AMT craft
& profession. His accomplishments are many and Bill would be the first
person to down play his importance because that is Bill's style. He
never did anything for selfish reasons. His ultimate goal was helping
the AMT. One of the things that Bill did was create the FAA's Charles
E. Taylor Master Mechanic Award which recognized AMTs having FIFTY
YEARS of working experience, with 30 of those years being licensed.
This is a very prestigious award that recognizes those men and women
who helped shape our craft into what it is today. Without Bill's
energy there would be no such award.
Bill also worked with Eastern New Mexico University to not only
recognize that the A&P license is worth 72 credits towards a college
degree but also helped ENMU create the four courses necessary for a
licensed AMT to take in order to earn an Associates Degree. It is
because of this that I am going back to school, as are many others, to
finish my education. Bill also advocates AMTs to earn their I.A.
certificate because AMTs should be as knowledgeable as possible. He
has also written a wonderful monthly article in AMT Magazine
addressing issues concerning AMTs with an informative, direct and
humorous approach.
These are just some of the many positive impacts that Bill has had on
our craft. Bill is a mechanic's mechanic. He needs our prayers and I
would like to ask each of you to do just that. The Lord listens and if
we all talk to Him, wishing for a speedy recovery for Bill, I am sure
that Bill will be back doing what he has always done... fight for
AMTs. Cards can be sent to Mr. Bill O'Brien, 12508 Lt. Nichols Road,
Fairfax, VA 22033. Even if you have not heard of Bill he would be
happy to receive a card from you. With all that Bill has accomplished
if it was measured in the number of get well cards the USPS would have
dedicated trucks just for him. Please tell your fellow AMTs about
Bill's need for prayers and words of love and well wishes. Sincerely,
Kenneth MacTiernan Director AMTA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Robin,
Your rudder trim is the cleanest to date short of some of the knob and scre
w systems, how about a little info on the modifications you did such as rei
nforcement of the trailing edge, additional ribs inside the rudder...anythi
ng you can think of that would make this easier for us to duplicate..right
now I'm fixin to do the hinge method but some details of your design would
be great...I get the tray setup and the servo but what did you do internall
y to preserve the trailing edge integrity=C2-above and below the tab? I r
eally want to go this way, the only thing I may do different is a composite
tab instead of the aluminum one...and yes I have stared at your pictures f
or at least a year or ever since you posted them...just getting ready to ge
t off the pot and cross this one off my list of TODO's but a bunch of newbi
es to the list will start asking this question, which one just did, hence m
y request...So how bout a little writeup. Only address the stuff that is no
t obvious in your photos unless you're feeling expressive!!=C2- :)
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 10:43:48 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/RudderTrim.htm
Robin
============
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Congratulations. Call me on 480-626-4048 if you want to discuss Mena paint
shops.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
-->
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was uneventful.
Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock steady. I had too
much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend the
next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Big congratulations! And you know John wants pics.
On Sat, Sep 27, 2008 at 3:14 PM, Fred Williams, M.D.
wrote:
> Dr Fred. N515FW
>
> To John Cox
> Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Fred, Congrats!!!!- Glad all went well.- I'm trying to finish up the pa
nel so I can put some fuel in the thing.- Take care, but have fun!
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 9/27/08, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
From: Fred Williams, M.D. <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
Date: Saturday, September 27, 2008, 12:14 PM
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
Onya Fred have fun
Chris
VH-ICY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 5:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
>
>
> N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was uneventful.
> Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock steady. I had too
> much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in 325-50 range. Landing
> approach at 85 k and stall warning off just before main wheel touchdown.
> Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq. Will get some pics later.
> Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
> Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
> the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
>
> Dr Fred. N515FW
>
> To John Cox
> Add me to the flying database :)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
It's in and awaiting photos. Fly Safe, Gentle Breezes, Cool Head
Temperatures and Soft Landings.
JC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Williams, M.D.
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
Bob Hoover told me one day, "You might forget the first girl you were ever with,
but you will never forget that first flight!"
Congratulations, can't wait to see some pictures.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 1:14:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Botton Wing Skins |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Yesssss it is a formidable job. The suggestion on back riveting is a good one.
I also had to trim the skin carefully with a quality file to get a good fit. I
also put in a few pull rivets (4-5) in the really hard to get places. I figure
that it is on the bottom and not too visible. I figure that the non-uniform
pull rivets are better than a badly shot one.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6528#206528
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | cabin heat cables where and how? |
I can't locate where in the plans it tells one how to run cables for the
cabin heat. I see under Section 27 to bolt the Vents but other than the
AN3-3A setup there is nothing for the brackets nor cables or anything
else.
Any feedback on this is appreciated!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | cabin heat cables where and how? |
The firewall forward runs are in FF1-3. the inside runs are user choice.
Mine are two knobs on the right side of the throttle quadrant. see picture
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 9:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin heat cables where and how?
I can't locate where in the plans it tells one how to run cables for the
cabin heat. I see under Section 27 to bolt the Vents but other than the
AN3-3A setup there is nothing for the brackets nor cables or anything else.
Any feedback on this is appreciated!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have managed at long last to get the u/c brackets out.
It appeared that the guys in the Phillipines didn't chamfer the bottom edge of
of the flange on the F-1004D's. If they had done so a) they wouldn't have left
a non deburred edge there and b) the u/c brackets would probably have come out
with ease. This has held me up by over 6 months.
The front floors came out relatively easily. I too found that the area under the
floor did would not appear to have been primed, strange since the areas under
the rear floors did appear to be primed.
I'm going to sound proof the area under the front floors with Orkotec blanket which
is exceptionally light.
Many thanks to all who offered advice on how I could get the u/c brackets free;
it was much appreciated,
Rodger
--- On Sat, 9/8/08, Rodger Todd wrote:
> From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, 9 August, 2008, 2:00 PM
>
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to
> remove the main under carriage brackets from their QB
> fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked
> how people had managed to remove the bolts and after many
> hours I have succeded in that. Apparently most were
> defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those
> floors, installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB
> came with the front cabin floors temporarily in place. To
> be able to remove them you need to remove the u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the
> u/c brackets out because you need to pull them forwards
> whilst at the same time dropping the front attachment bar of
> the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
> clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed
> to solve the puzzle short of destroying the front floors -
> Tim's log stated that his floors were not supplied with
> his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email
> addresses available now at Yahoo!
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have managed at long last to get the u/c brackets out.
It appeared that the guys in the Phillipines didn't chamfer the bottom edge of
of the flange on the F-1004D's. If they had done so a) they wouldn't have left
a non deburred edge there and b) the u/c brackets would probably have come out
with ease. This has held me up by over 6 months.
The front floors came out relatively easily. I too found that the area under the
floor did not appear to have been primed, strange since the areas under the
rear floors did appear to be primed.
I'm going to sound proof the area under the front floors with Orkotec blanket which
is exceptionally light.
Many thanks to all who offered advice on how I could get the u/c brackets free;
it was much appreciated,
Rodger
--- On Sat, 9/8/08, Rodger Todd wrote:
> From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, 9 August, 2008, 2:00 PM
>
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to
> remove the main under carriage brackets from their QB
> fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked
> how people had managed to remove the bolts and after many
> hours I have succeded in that. Apparently most were
> defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those
> floors, installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB
> came with the front cabin floors temporarily in place. To
> be able to remove them you need to remove the u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the
> u/c brackets out because you need to pull them forwards
> whilst at the same time dropping the front attachment bar of
> the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
> clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed
> to solve the puzzle short of destroying the front floors -
> Tim's log stated that his floors were not supplied with
> his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email
> addresses available now at Yahoo!
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
Hello Fred,
Congratulations on getting to this stage. It is a wonderful feeling
after all that work you did between patients :>} I know if you are like
me you still have a lot of loose ends to complete but they get much
easier now that you can fly it. Heck I spent a couple of days last week
on stuff and I've been flying well over a year. A person is always
trying to fine tune things.
Get comfortable with your fly off and then we can meet somewhere for
lunch within your 75 mile fly off radius.
Wayne Edgerton
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: N515FW
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and
rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps
in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off
just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25
sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel
pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to
spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop crate size/weight |
I will be picking up my blended airfoil hartzell from the trucking
terminal... does anyone know the size and weight of the crate? I am
wondering if I can fit it in the Passat Wagon.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop crate size/weight |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
With the box it is about 70-90 lbs.
It can hang out the back as long as the hub is contained in the car.
Just watch the ends
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6618#206618
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installed standard Vans door lock |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Just installed the standard Vans door lock. Not the greatest. In a prior post I
think that Mr. Saint put out the idea that it would fit best if the lock stopped
the mechanism at a 180 degree angle rather than the 90 degree that seems
to be the default.
Since my pin throw is about 1.2" and the stock lock has a .90" lever, I installed
it the intuitive easy way. This also eliminated having to put a hole on the
inboard side of the door.
After installation you will note that the standard throw lever sits too far inboard
to catch the geared pin. You have to weld or rivet an extra piece on the
lower part of the lever. You can also tighten up the fit at this point to take
out the wiggle factor.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6623#206623
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin heat cables where and how? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Note - do not do a permanent install till your panel is all ready to install as
the heater cables have to be removed and run thru the hole in the bracket or
panel.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6626#206626
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A |
I'm subject to the bulletin and I want to get the kit. I've been trying
to reach Unison on the phone but get no answer or call back. I've
searched the site and come up empty handed.
I have a Lycoming YIO-540.
Can anyone point me to a contact or URL where I can go about getting the
kit?
Thanks.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unison Revises Slick Magneto Service Bulletin; Kits Available
> Unison Industries has revised service bulletins on its Slick magnetos
> and is currently shipping kits to enable compliance with the revised
> SBs. Service bulletins SB2-08A and SB3-08A are revisions of earlier
> bulletins. For affected Slick- and LASAR-brand magnetos (serial
> numbers from 0610XXXX to 0804XXXX), installing the kits will
> constitute a terminating action for the SBs. Others that might be
> affected are magnetos that have had their cam (or the cam as part of
> the contact point assembly kit) replaced with products shipped between
> October 1, 2006, and May 11, 2008. Unison is recommending replacing
> the entire contact point assembly and distributor block and gear
> assemblies. Service Bulletin SB3-08A affects magnetos with serial
> numbers from 0409XXXX to 08080453, and/or magnetos that have had the
> carbon brush or distributor block replaced with products shipped
> between September 1, 2004, and August 14, 2008. For a limited time,
> the company is making the kits available at reduced prices. Any Slick
> or LASAR magnetos manufactured after August 15, 2008, are not affected
> by the SBs. For more information, go to http://www.unisonindustries.com/
>
> https://unisonpubs.com/docs/F-1100-SB3-08A.pdf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Fred:
Congratulations on a huge accomplishment. Enjoy the flying. Come to
T-town for a visit anytime.
Best,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Williams, M.D.
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 2:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N515FW
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25 sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | dimensions for painting |
Anyone know dimensions off hand of all the pieces. I am researching
paint quotes and the shops want dimensions to accompany the pictures. I
have everything everywhere so it would take some work to measure
everything out.
Additionally, if anyone has had their plane painted already and were
given an idea of the amount of sq feet or other measurement to determine
quote/pricing, that would help too!
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
My understanding is that the kits are on back order due to
"overwhelming" response. Go figure. Another option would be to purchase
the brushes and cams through a shop like Quality Aircraft Accessories
(918) 835-6948. Quality will also do the labor for $75/mag, if new/low
time. If more than 100 hours, I think they are charging a little bit
more.
Best,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
I'm subject to the bulletin and I want to get the kit. I've been trying
to reach Unison on the phone but get no answer or call back. I've
searched the site and come up empty handed.
I have a Lycoming YIO-540.
Can anyone point me to a contact or URL where I can go about getting the
kit?
Thanks.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unison Revises Slick Magneto Service Bulletin; Kits Available
> Unison Industries has revised service bulletins on its Slick magnetos
> and is currently shipping kits to enable compliance with the revised
> SBs. Service bulletins SB2-08A and SB3-08A are revisions of earlier
> bulletins. For affected Slick- and LASAR-brand magnetos (serial
> numbers from 0610XXXX to 0804XXXX), installing the kits will
> constitute a terminating action for the SBs. Others that might be
> affected are magnetos that have had their cam (or the cam as part of
> the contact point assembly kit) replaced with products shipped between
> October 1, 2006, and May 11, 2008. Unison is recommending replacing
> the entire contact point assembly and distributor block and gear
> assemblies. Service Bulletin SB3-08A affects magnetos with serial
> numbers from 0409XXXX to 08080453, and/or magnetos that have had the
> carbon brush or distributor block replaced with products shipped
> between September 1, 2004, and August 14, 2008. For a limited time,
> the company is making the kits available at reduced prices. Any Slick
> or LASAR magnetos manufactured after August 15, 2008, are not affected
> by the SBs. For more information, go to
http://www.unisonindustries.com/
>
> https://unisonpubs.com/docs/F-1100-SB3-08A.pdf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Putting on the Landing Gear... |
I've just finished attaching the fuselage to the tail cone and am
contemplating installing the landing gear now instead of later. Dave
Saylor will be using my fuselage for the next composites class at
Aircrafters and I've got to trailer this beast about 350 miles up and
back in mid November. I'd feel better with the added suspension it
would pick up from the legs for the ride on the trailer... as well as
the ease of loading/unloading with it on wheels. With the fiberglass
work on the horizon, I'll need to be able to easily move the plane in
and out for sanding, etc. as I can't do that work inside my printing
plant.
Can any of you past the point of gear installation tell me why I
shouldn't do it now? Any other thoughts?
Thank you all...
Jeff Carpenter
40304
drowning in a sea of tubing and wire
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting on the Landing Gear... |
A couple of thoughts; Almost everything you'll be doing for awhile is
more difficult up on the gear. Battery, Electrical, panel, and even the
glass top. Most of the sanding you'll be doing for the fitting (after
Dave's cutting) will still involve sanding the top while it's off and
then fitting it back on. Then there's the doors which I've already
fitted, initially, but I know others recommend waiting. If you've just
connected the tail, you probably still have a good amount of interior
panel work to do. That seems easier with the whole thing down low.
Now having said that, my only experience is working on a fuse that's
rolling around on a pair of motorcyle stands from HF and a couple of
2x4s. So I don't have much comparison.
Bill "putting the engine mount on, fitting the panel, and prepping the
engine" Watson
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I've just finished attaching the fuselage to the tail cone and am
> contemplating installing the landing gear now instead of later. Dave
> Saylor will be using my fuselage for the next composites class at
> Aircrafters and I've got to trailer this beast about 350 miles up and
> back in mid November. I'd feel better with the added suspension it
> would pick up from the legs for the ride on the trailer... as well as
> the ease of loading/unloading with it on wheels. With the fiberglass
> work on the horizon, I'll need to be able to easily move the plane in
> and out for sanding, etc. as I can't do that work inside my printing
> plant.
>
> Can any of you past the point of gear installation tell me why I
> shouldn't do it now? Any other thoughts?
>
> Thank you all...
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> drowning in a sea of tubing and wire
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting on the Landing Gear... |
Is your trailer wide enough for the gear? When I moved mine 2 months
ago, the gear /tires were wider than the trailer. My mechanic buddy
has a special bracket to hold the gear . He has moved several planes
that way. We only had to go a couple miles. I don't think I'd want to
move 350 the way we had it on the trailer.
On the other hand. Any help you get with the top : fitting/sanding ,
etc, will be worth the trouble moving it . Should save you several
weeks work.
Dr Fred.
Link to picture.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/Movingday#5235655189454040098
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I've just finished attaching the fuselage to the tail cone and am
> contemplating installing the landing gear now instead of later. Dave
> Saylor will be using my fuselage for the next composites class at
> Aircrafters and I've got to trailer this beast about 350 miles up and
> back in mid November. I'd feel better with the added suspension it
> would pick up from the legs for the ride on the trailer... as well as
> the ease of loading/unloading with it on wheels. With the fiberglass
> work on the horizon, I'll need to be able to easily move the plane in
> and out for sanding, etc. as I can't do that work inside my printing
> plant.
>
> Can any of you past the point of gear installation tell me why I
> shouldn't do it now? Any other thoughts?
>
> Thank you all...
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> drowning in a sea of tubing and wire
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Putting on the Landing Gear... |
Jeff,
I built a short set of wheels and attached them to the outside of the wing spar
carry-thru. The lower height of the fuselage made putting on the cabin top much
easier. Made moving the fuselage around easy too. The gear make the -10
sit up off the ground to the point where you would need ladders to work on the
cabin top.
Just an opinion.
Jim C
N312F
40192
Working on my punch list before the DAR inspection! Maybe October! (I missed September!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A |
Purchased brand new Slicks about three months ago from Spruce. Installed
them on the engine but not run yet. What would you do, send them back for
refund then repurchase? What?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
>
> My understanding is that the kits are on back order due to
> "overwhelming" response. Go figure. Another option would be to purchase
> the brushes and cams through a shop like Quality Aircraft Accessories
> (918) 835-6948. Quality will also do the labor for $75/mag, if new/low
> time. If more than 100 hours, I think they are charging a little bit
> more.
>
> Best,
>
> Rhonda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 1:32 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
>
>
> I'm subject to the bulletin and I want to get the kit. I've been trying
>
> to reach Unison on the phone but get no answer or call back. I've
> searched the site and come up empty handed.
>
> I have a Lycoming YIO-540.
>
> Can anyone point me to a contact or URL where I can go about getting the
>
> kit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Unison Revises Slick Magneto Service Bulletin; Kits Available
>> Unison Industries has revised service bulletins on its Slick magnetos
>> and is currently shipping kits to enable compliance with the revised
>> SBs. Service bulletins SB2-08A and SB3-08A are revisions of earlier
>> bulletins. For affected Slick- and LASAR-brand magnetos (serial
>> numbers from 0610XXXX to 0804XXXX), installing the kits will
>> constitute a terminating action for the SBs. Others that might be
>> affected are magnetos that have had their cam (or the cam as part of
>> the contact point assembly kit) replaced with products shipped between
>
>> October 1, 2006, and May 11, 2008. Unison is recommending replacing
>> the entire contact point assembly and distributor block and gear
>> assemblies. Service Bulletin SB3-08A affects magnetos with serial
>> numbers from 0409XXXX to 08080453, and/or magnetos that have had the
>> carbon brush or distributor block replaced with products shipped
>> between September 1, 2004, and August 14, 2008. For a limited time,
>> the company is making the kits available at reduced prices. Any Slick
>> or LASAR magnetos manufactured after August 15, 2008, are not affected
>
>> by the SBs. For more information, go to
> http://www.unisonindustries.com/
>>
>> https://unisonpubs.com/docs/F-1100-SB3-08A.pdf
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thank you on the 51% responses |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
In four hours the deadline is nearing for comments. Thanks to those 300
soles who took the time to share their recommendations.
It was unfortunate that the FAA/EAA posted the wrong phone number for
FAXing responses. I sent mine by both email and FAX. The correct FAX
number to Miguel was 202-267-5580.
The ARC will soon review the comments and the final policy will be
implemented in a month.
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Standards for word "Experimental" required on inte |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> I like it when the placard reads "does not meet the standards" and they add in
"It exceeds them" I think I saw that on Sam Bucahannan's RV..
> ---
I think that's kind of silly. No matter how well it's built and maintained, none
of our exp aircraft meet the standards imposed on certified aircraft. It's something
you should be proud of, not try to hide. After all, isn't that why you
built it? Honestly, if experimentals had to meet all the certification, maintenance,
and equipment standards, there would be no such thing as an RV-x, or
any other experimental aircraft.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7024#207024
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door warning switch |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)AOL.COM> |
The door warning diagram Vans has uses a normally open switch to activate a relay.
What happens if the relay doesn't work? I decided to take the relay out
of the circuit. I checked with Mouser and found they sell both the normally open
and normally closed switch. I purchase 4 normally closed magnetic switches
from Mouser part number 540-MP201702. These are just like the magnetic switch
Vans sells but is normally closed when the magnet is pulled away. With this
switch I am able to eliminate the relay in the circuit. If any switch senses
the magnet in the door latch moving away from the switch, a ground is supplied
to the warning light and lights it up. Any thoughts on my idea. I am using
LED annunciator lights which require very little current.
Mouser on-line catalog page 1790 http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MP201702virtualkey54010000virtualkey540-MP201702
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7067#207067
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I'd be interested in seeing your circuit.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7124#207124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
Does anyone us a power tow bar for their RV10 and what brand are you using?
I hanger in a outdoor T-hanger and have to push back off a grass field. My
back is screaming for help.
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Greg,
Brilliant idea! Yet another one I'll have to copy from you :)
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7140#207140
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Door ajar warning system |
Hi John=2C
Van's calls it a "warning light kit" the part number is "10 door lock syste
m". Here's a link: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident
=1222958547-2-327&action=search
Vern Smith (#324)
> From: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-
List: Door ajar warning system> Date: Wed=2C 1 Oct 2008 19:02:32 -0700> > -
Does any one know the vans product number or where to look for this item i
n their catalog or web site. A search revealed nothing.> > Thanks=2C> > JOh
=============> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC=2C the Web=2C and your mobile phone with Windows
Live.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Door warning switch |
Nice simple idea.
If I'm following you correctly. Failure modes would be as follows:
If a magnetic switch stick closed it will show the door as not latched. Whi
ch is not a bad failure mode.
If the switch fails in the open position the LED will not light up and woul
d indicate the door is latched. This failure could be detected by adding a
"check door ajar lights are on" to the preflight check list with the power
applied and the doors open.
Double check the current rating of the switches compared to the current dra
w of the LEDs.
As a side thought=2C I also talked to a builder from Canada at the Arlingto
n Flyin that used micro-switches that were activated by the door rod as it
pushed through the frame.
Vern Smith (#324)
> Subject: RV10-List: Door warning switch> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com> Date: W
st message posted by: "greghale" > > The door warning di
agram Vans has uses a normally open switch to activate a relay. What happen
s if the relay doesn't work? I decided to take the relay out of the circuit
. I checked with Mouser and found they sell both the normally open and norm
ally closed switch. I purchase 4 normally closed magnetic switches from Mou
ser part number 540-MP201702. These are just like the magnetic switch Vans
sells but is normally closed when the magnet is pulled away. With this swit
ch I am able to eliminate the relay in the circuit. If any switch senses th
e magnet in the door latch moving away from the switch=2C a ground is suppl
ied to the warning light and lights it up. Any thoughts on my idea. I am us
ing LED annunciator lights which require very little current.> > Mouser on-
line catalog page 1790 http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=
MP201702virtualkey54010000virtualkey540-MP201702> > Greg...> > --------> Gr
eg Hale rv10 -- N210KH> www.nwacaptain.com> > > > > Read this topic online
here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7067#207067> > > >
======> > >
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people=2C information=2C and fun that are part
of your life.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Rivets |
I suspect it's because, many have found GREAT difficulty in attaching
the cover plates to the elevator WITH the cable anchors attached to
them. Many are opting for after market anchor cables (CNC machined) and
attaching then with AN hardware.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Steve Stella wrote:
>
> Can any one tell me the reason the plans on page 9-15 call for LP4-3
> pop rivets to attach anchor brackets instead of dimpling and using
> 426AD4-4 flush rivets. Am I missing something?
>
>
>
>
>
> Steve Stella
>
> #40654 Emp.
>
>
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Unfortunately, I have been told that Unison (now owned by Champion -
well the mags/harness lines anyway) will not honor a warranty/return on
new mags unless the cam/brushes are found to have wear at the inspection
intervals outlined in the SB. I also don't believe they will cover any
labor. If it were me I wouldn't wait, especially with Champion picking
up the product lines. I think the delay on the repair kit may end up
being significant.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
Purchased brand new Slicks about three months ago from Spruce.
Installed
them on the engine but not run yet. What would you do, send them back
for
refund then repurchase? What?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
>
> My understanding is that the kits are on back order due to
> "overwhelming" response. Go figure. Another option would be to
purchase
> the brushes and cams through a shop like Quality Aircraft Accessories
> (918) 835-6948. Quality will also do the labor for $75/mag, if
new/low
> time. If more than 100 hours, I think they are charging a little bit
> more.
>
> Best,
>
> Rhonda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 1:32 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick mag update SB2-08A and SB3-08A
>
>
> I'm subject to the bulletin and I want to get the kit. I've been
trying
>
> to reach Unison on the phone but get no answer or call back. I've
> searched the site and come up empty handed.
>
> I have a Lycoming YIO-540.
>
> Can anyone point me to a contact or URL where I can go about getting
the
>
> kit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Unison Revises Slick Magneto Service Bulletin; Kits Available
>> Unison Industries has revised service bulletins on its Slick magnetos
>> and is currently shipping kits to enable compliance with the revised
>> SBs. Service bulletins SB2-08A and SB3-08A are revisions of earlier
>> bulletins. For affected Slick- and LASAR-brand magnetos (serial
>> numbers from 0610XXXX to 0804XXXX), installing the kits will
>> constitute a terminating action for the SBs. Others that might be
>> affected are magnetos that have had their cam (or the cam as part of
>> the contact point assembly kit) replaced with products shipped
between
>
>> October 1, 2006, and May 11, 2008. Unison is recommending replacing
>> the entire contact point assembly and distributor block and gear
>> assemblies. Service Bulletin SB3-08A affects magnetos with serial
>> numbers from 0409XXXX to 08080453, and/or magnetos that have had the
>> carbon brush or distributor block replaced with products shipped
>> between September 1, 2004, and August 14, 2008. For a limited time,
>> the company is making the kits available at reduced prices. Any Slick
>> or LASAR magnetos manufactured after August 15, 2008, are not
affected
>
>> by the SBs. For more information, go to
> http://www.unisonindustries.com/
>>
>> https://unisonpubs.com/docs/F-1100-SB3-08A.pdf
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Here is the one I bought. Works great......
http://www.powertow.com/12V.html
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Towbars
Does anyone us a power tow bar for their RV10 and what brand are you using?
I hanger in a outdoor T-hanger and have to push back off a grass field. My
back is screaming for help.
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TowbarsTowbars |
Thanks for the info on the Power Tow. Are you using it on grass or concrete?
Any challenges with balance using one tire?
David
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Wide tire, so not really a balance problem. Once you hook it to the nose
wheel it is very stable.
I am using it on asphalt and concrete. Slight up hill and have to push it
over a ~1.5 inch lip. No problems with doing that. I built little ramps to
get over the lip just to make it easier.
I have no experience on grass, but I would not think it would be a problem,
you can push down on the handle to get better traction......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TowbarsTowbars
Thanks for the info on the Power Tow. Are you using it on grass or concrete?
Any challenges with balance using one tire?
David
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | M LEE <nila_myles(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate fly-in |
Hello=2C
Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning on attending the Coppersta
te
fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
Myles
RV-10 forever finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TowbarsTowbars |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
The 'standard' tow bar that a lot of 10 users have (http://www.bogert-av.com/bogi-bars.php) has an extension that you can get that will allow it to be hooked to golf cart, lawnmower etc. I've ordered one, but haven't tried it yet, but looks like it should work. Biggest concern I would have with ANY towbars is that it might slip as you push. don't ask how I know (previous airplane!!) The tow bar with slight addition, also does a very good job as a rudder gust lock. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7250#207250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
OK, after 2 1/2 months 'vacation' while the plane was at the painter,
the parts are back from the painter, and in reviewing the archive I see
reference to Van's spec of 37.5 in /lbs to balance the elevators, but
I'm not sure what exactly how to go about measuring / verifying them.
What procedure/process/technique have people used?
I also saw a reference, from Van's the 'just build them to plan and that
they naturally hang low. ???????
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
I plan on being there most days, since it is just down the road.
Kelly
40866
On Fri, Oct 3, 2008 at 8:04 AM, M LEE wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning on attending the
> Copperstate
> fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
>
> Myles
> RV-10 forever finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
Deems
You need a couple knife edges to put the hinge bolts on, an accurate
balance, preferably digital for ease of use, to measure the downforce on
the rear edge of elevator.
Perhaps you can persuade some Copperstate attendees to give you a hand.
It is an operation where 4 hands or more are helpful. I would NOT skip
the balancing, given all the speed mods and hp mods I think you have,
which will have you pushing the upper end of Vne. ;-)
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> OK, after 2 1/2 months 'vacation' while the plane was at the painter,
> the parts are back from the painter, and in reviewing the archive I
> see reference to Van's spec of 37.5 in /lbs to balance the elevators,
> but I'm not sure what exactly how to go about measuring / verifying them.
> What procedure/process/technique have people used?
> I also saw a reference, from Van's the 'just build them to plan and
> that they naturally hang low. ???????
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate fly-in |
I will be there on Friday.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Hello,
Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning on attending the
Copperstate
fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
Myles
RV-10 forever finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
I to have a Power tow, and move a Saratoga up a slope with no problems at
all.
Will be adapting it to the rv-10 when done
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TowbarsTowbars
Thanks for the info on the Power Tow. Are you using it on grass or concrete?
Any challenges with balance using one tire?
David
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Flying in on Friday Morning leaving Sun Morning
Bill & Sharon Souza
SoCal RV Group
RV-10
N410RG
--- On Fri, 10/3/08, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Copperstate fly-in
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 8:48 AM
> McMullen"
>
> I plan on being there most days, since it is just down the
> road.
> Kelly
> 40866
>
> On Fri, Oct 3, 2008 at 8:04 AM, M LEE
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning
> on attending the
> > Copperstate
> > fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
> >
> > Myles
> > RV-10 forever finishing
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Copperstate fly-in |
Yes N46007 will be there Saturday for sure; maybe Friday early morning only.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of M LEE
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Copperstate fly-in
Hello,
Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning on attending the
Copperstate
fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
Myles
RV-10 forever finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I added a second oil cooler on the right side which seems to have almost
solved my hot oil problems. It is a 6 row cooler but there is room for a
larger one.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Jack Sparling <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/02/08 |
Greetings!!=0A=0AI am looking for a door lock that can be installed without
modifying the current mechanism and a tow bar for the 10.- If you have a
ny ideas, I'm all ears!=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AJack Sparling=0A40487- Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate fly-in |
N939SB be there all day Saturday.
Bill DeRouchey and other propeller heads.
--- On Fri, 10/3/08, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Copperstate fly-in
Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 11:13 AM
#yiv1003735297 .hmmessage P {
PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-TO
P:0px;}
#yiv1003735297 {
FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;}
Yes N46007 will be there Saturday for sure; maybe Friday early morning only
.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of M LEE
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Copperstate fly-in
-
Hello,
-
Just wondering if there are any RV-10's planning on attending the Coppersta
te
fly-in in Casa Grande Arizona and if so what days?
-
Myles
RV-10 forever finishing
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Putting on the Landing Gear... |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I moved my 10 project (not on gear) a year ago and it it was quite easy. I used
a U-Haul trailer that is quite low to the ground. I used plywood planks and 2x4's
with two furniture dollies. Min 3 people to help 4 better.
I can assure you that it is a lot easier to do wiring and doors if it is NOT on
the gear legs(closer to the ground). I have probably been in and out 1000 times
and it is a whole lot easier closer to the ground.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7328#207328
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Gary,
This is the electrical circuit using the normally closed switches.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7343#207343
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/modified_door_warning_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
When I first received the Door light warning kit and looked over the schematic,
I thought "why so complicated?"
Vans is usually very conservative and will default to the KISS principle unless
there is a good reason to do otherwise. There is a very good reason for the
relays and the seemingly more complicated circuit in the original setup. With
the Van's circuit, all parts of the circuit MUST be functioning perfectly in
order to extinguish the light. The door unlatched or a failure of ANY component
in the circuit will keep the light illuminated as long as there is power.
If a wire breaks, the light will remain on; if the relay fails, the light will
remain on; if any of the switches fail, the light will remain on. The Van's
circuit requires power to the relays to keep the light extinguished.
Changing the switches to normally closed defeats the original purpose of the Van's
design and introduces a failure mode where a break in the switch circuit will
give the indication that all is well when in fact it may not.
I will not be using the relays but I will be using the normally open switches.
The AFS EFIS has inputs for things such as this and wired to normally open, can
trigger a master alarm whenever the input line is NOT grounded. This configuration
adheres to the Van's principle. If there is a break or failure of any
component in the circuit, the light (master alarm) will remain illuminated.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
It looks like at least 3 confrimed RV-10's (hopefully more) will be
flying in for this years EAA Cooperstate (10/23-10/26) and I estimate
they will include an avg of 2 passengers ea. John Cox is likely flying
in commercially, and there are 5-8 others of us in the valley that are
still 'cobbeling' our planes together and I expect will make our way
there via ground transp.
So this sounds like an excellent opportunity to pick some brains, is
anybody interested in arranging a 'get together' ?
Obvious options are:
1. Pick a day, time, and location to meet on the field and gab, visit,
oogle (the planes) etc.
2. #1 coupled with a run into Casa Grande later in the day for some
grub, (I'm sure we can arrange shuttles/rides for those flying in).
3. Either Fri. Night or Sat night the Davis's host a BBQ at our home.
(20 minute drive north from KDVT, 60 minutes from KCGZ) Again we can
arrange shuttle service to/from KDVT
4. ?????
What say yee?????
Deems
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there. I would
be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal on site.
Myron
602 421 2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Friday or Saturday night would be fine with me. For me, CGZ would be easier
as I can fly there but must drive to Anthem.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there. I
would be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal on
site.
Myron
602 421 2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
| From: | "N410RG" <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net> |
It would be nice to have a small RV-10 gathering. List time and
location on the airport.
Bill Souza, SoCal RV Group
RV-10, N410RG, New owner of Rick Grays
2007 OSH award winner.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7366#207366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to refuse. I'm planning on
going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an afternoon/lunch gathering?
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there. I would
be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal on site.
> Myron
> 602 421 2868
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate fly-in |
I'm always happy to meet other RV owners especially to talk about RV-10's.
I'm only going to be there until mid-afternoon Friday and will then return
to Yuma. So for me a get-together during the day is best-time is not
important. I should arrive about 8:30 AM. Cell phone is 928-210-9123 and
I'll be glad to meet with any and all interested.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
It all sounds great.... I screwed up at Osh and didn't get to meet hardly a
nybody, so hopefully this time will work out.- I'm flying down with a fri
end in his RV6 and would love to get together no matter what the circumstan
ce.- My cell is 916-801-8402.- While talking about meeting down there I
think everyone whould list their cell numbers,,,,, for obvious reasons.
Don McDonald & Dennis Mangan-
--- On Sat, 10/4/08, Deems Davis wrote:
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 2:08 PM
Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to refuse. I'm planning on
going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an afternoon/lunch gathering?
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there.
I
would be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal o
n
site.
> Myron
> 602 421 2868
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
>
>
>
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Any folks here planning on going to Land Of Enchantment Flyin next weekend?
I'm thinking of flying down for one day.
Don McDonald wrote:
> It all sounds great.... I screwed up at Osh and didn't get to meet
> hardly anybody, so hopefully this time will work out. I'm flying down
> with a friend in his RV6 and would love to get together no matter what
> the circumstance. My cell is 916-801-8402. While talking about
> meeting down there I think everyone whould list their cell
> numbers,,,,, for obvious reasons.
> Don McDonald & Dennis Mangan
>
> --- On *Sat, 10/4/08, Deems Davis //* wrote:
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 2:08 PM
>
>
> Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to refuse. I'm planning on
> going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an afternoon/lunch gathering?
>
> Deems
>
> woxofswa wrote:
>
> >
> > I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there.
I
> would be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal
on
> site.
> > Myron
> > 602 421 2868
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
The boss suggested a family outing in CA that weekend.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
Any folks here planning on going to Land Of Enchantment Flyin next weekend?
I'm thinking of flying down for one day.
Don McDonald wrote:
It all sounds great.... I screwed up at Osh and didn't get to meet hardly
anybody, so hopefully this time will work out. I'm flying down with a
friend in his RV6 and would love to get together no matter what the
circumstance. My cell is 916-801-8402. While talking about meeting down
there I think everyone whould list their cell numbers,,,,, for obvious
reasons.
Don McDonald & Dennis Mangan
--- On Sat, 10/4/08, Deems Davis
wrote:
From: Deems Davis <mailto:deemsdavis(at)cox.net> <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 2:08 PM
Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to refuse. I'm planning on
going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an afternoon/lunch gathering?
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I can take out there. I
would be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering site to do a meal on
site.
> Myron
> 602 421 2868
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
href="3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List%22">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="3D%22http://forums.matronics.com%22">http://forums.matronics.com
href="3D%22http://www.matronics.com/contribution%22">http://www.matronics.co
m/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Will be there Friday afternoon around 11am till Sunday leaving about 9am.
Anytime to get together and talk about RV-10's will be ok.
Bill Souza, Cell Phone # 661-547-6568
RV-10, N410RG
SoCal RV group
--- On Sat, 10/4/08, Don McDonald wrote:
> From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 5:41 PM
> It all sounds great.... I screwed up at Osh and didn't
> get to meet hardly anybody, so hopefully this time will work
> out. I'm flying down with a friend in his RV6 and
> would love to get together no matter what the
> circumstance. My cell is 916-801-8402. While talking
> about meeting down there I think everyone whould list their
> cell numbers,,,,, for obvious reasons.
> Don McDonald & Dennis Mangan
>
> --- On Sat, 10/4/08, Deems Davis
> wrote:
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 2:08 PM
>
>
>
> Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to refuse.
> I'm planning on
> going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an
> afternoon/lunch gathering?
>
> Deems
>
> woxofswa wrote:
> "woxofswa"
>
> >
> > I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy that I
> can take out there. I
> would be happy to set it up as a base kitchen/gathering
> site to do a meal on
> site.
> > Myron
> > 602 421 2868
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
Flying to LOE following Rosie and Tupperware gal Friday morning 7am, should arrive
about 3 o'clock at LOE and leave Sunday morning 9am.
Bill Souza, SoCal RV group
RV-10
Cell# 661-547-6568
--- On Sat, 10/4/08, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 5:47 PM
> Any folks here planning on going to Land Of Enchantment
> Flyin next weekend?
> I'm thinking of flying down for one day.
>
> Don McDonald wrote:
> > It all sounds great.... I screwed up at Osh and
> didn't get to meet
> > hardly anybody, so hopefully this time will work out.
> I'm flying down
> > with a friend in his RV6 and would love to get
> together no matter what
> > the circumstance. My cell is 916-801-8402. While
> talking about
> > meeting down there I think everyone whould list their
> cell
> > numbers,,,,, for obvious reasons.
> > Don McDonald & Dennis Mangan
> >
> > --- On *Sat, 10/4/08, Deems Davis
> //* wrote:
> >
> > From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Saturday, October 4, 2008, 2:08 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Myron, that sounds like an offer too good to
> refuse. I'm planning on
> > going out (driving) Saturday, How about we do an
> afternoon/lunch gathering?
> >
> > Deems
> >
> > woxofswa wrote:
> "woxofswa"
> >
> > >
> > > I have a fifth wheel and a big dining canopy
> that I can take out there. I
> > would be happy to set it up as a base
> kitchen/gathering site to do a meal on
> > site.
> > > Myron
> > > 602 421 2868
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Myron Nelson
> > > Mesa, AZ
> > > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > >
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7359#207359
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)AOL.COM> |
Interesting explanation. This is why I uploaded the diagram and idea. I needed
some thoughts into this change before I wired it in. Thanks for the replies.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7406#207406
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door warning switch |
Greg,here's a thought.
Put little green LEDs on the panel, across each NC switch. If the door
isn't closed, no 'green to go', and you'll know immediately which door is
causing the problem. The LEDs will draw less current than the relays which
may be significant if you lose alternator power. I like simplicity (and
weight) too, and that's my thought.
Linn
greghale wrote:
>
> Interesting explanation. This is why I uploaded the diagram and idea. I needed
some thoughts into this change before I wired it in. Thanks for the replies.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7406#207406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TowbarsTowbarsTowbarsTowbars |
Thanks everyone for your input. I guess I will fork out the cash and
purchase a Power Tow. In advance my back, Thanks You!
David
N2733K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I will set the trailer up for a base camp Friday Morning. I'll have a canopy and
plenty of tables and chairs, and a firepit. I'll have to leave for a few hours
Friday afternoon, but folks can hang out all they want.
I've got a setup for outdoor movies. I was thinking maybe "FlyBoys" on Friday
night.
Saturday afternoon/evening we can have a gathering and meal. 5pm sounds good to
me. I will provide a killer carne asada meal for cost, probably 5-6 bucks per
person.
I will handle all the food and preparation. What I would like is for someone to
organize and get a head count. Also if someone could handle all the beverages,
that would be great. I'll have a fridge in the trailer and a cooler or two.
Adult beverages are fine, I just don't want to provide them. Maybe we can
invite the Van's crew to join us.
I have an airline trip starting Sunday, so I'll be pulling out late Sat night.
I also have a nice family style tent that I would be happy to loan out if someone
wants to borrow it.
Myron
woxof(at)aol.com
602 421 2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7509#207509
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate fly-in |
I did confirm with the president of Copperstate that unlike OSH, the airport
reverts to a normal uncontrolled airport after 1800. Therefore a later than
1800 departure will not be a problem,
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 7:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate fly-in
I will set the trailer up for a base camp Friday Morning. I'll have a
canopy and plenty of tables and chairs, and a firepit. I'll have to leave
for a few hours Friday afternoon, but folks can hang out all they want.
I've got a setup for outdoor movies. I was thinking maybe "FlyBoys" on
Friday night.
Saturday afternoon/evening we can have a gathering and meal. 5pm sounds
good to me. I will provide a killer carne asada meal for cost, probably 5-6
bucks per person.
I will handle all the food and preparation. What I would like is for
someone to organize and get a head count. Also if someone could handle all
the beverages, that would be great. I'll have a fridge in the trailer and a
cooler or two. Adult beverages are fine, I just don't want to provide them.
Maybe we can invite the Van's crew to join us.
I have an airline trip starting Sunday, so I'll be pulling out late Sat
night.
I also have a nice family style tent that I would be happy to loan out if
someone wants to borrow it.
Myron
woxof(at)aol.com
602 421 2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7509#207509
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-540 Roller Tappet Kit Available |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
All:
Sorry for the blatant commercial plug here folks, but I have a customer
who is facing an indefinite delay in his RV-10 build. He has had his
engine on order here for some time and the 540 kit is stock, awaiting
assembly. He has authorized me to make his kit available to the market
for someone who is looking to purchase an engine.
I have not had a price increase in kits since this individual ordered
his engine. However, I have been told by Lycoming that kits will go up
effective 1/1/09. I have also been told that with Champion taking over
Unison's magneto lines, we will probably see a 15% price increase in
magnetos. If you are close to ordering your engine and want to take
delivery prior to the price increases, please let me know and I will
honor our 2007 pricing on this kit. If you would like to consider
purchasing the engine but are not ready to take delivery until after
1/1/09, I will gladly sell you the kit at '07 pricing with the exception
of any increases in accessory pricing.
The engine can be built in stock configuration or customized with cold
air induction and/or high compression pistons. Please contact me
directly for detailed information regarding pricing if you are
interested.
Thank you.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)AOL.COM> |
I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do now.
I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod
the ribs.
Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7559#207559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
Having just completed this with my panel all wired and together=2C I don't
see how you can do anything until you have the instruments mounted in the p
anel. Not only do you have to worry about the actual device(s)=2C but also
the connectors coming out of the back of the unit(s).
If you want to do it twice=2C you can do it now and then again later.
I'd wait.
John G. 409> Subject: RV10-List: upper fwd fuselage rib mods> From: woxof@a
ol.com> Date: Mon=2C 6 Oct 2008 10:07:19 -0700> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
lding my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified the r
ibs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics p
icked out and at hand before modifying=2C but it seems much easier to do no
w.> > I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.> > I was think
ing of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod the ri
bs.> > Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?> >
--------> Myron Nelson> Mesa=2C AZ> Emp completed=2C legacy build fuse in
progress> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.c
====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Zulu |
| From: | "WMD" <wdeviny(at)kcbx.net> |
Jesse,
Sent you and email on this group buy.
Thanks,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7563#207563
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
woxofswa wrote:
> I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do now.
>
> I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
>
> I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod
the ribs.
>
> Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
Get your instruments or exact mock up of them, lay out your panel and then figure
out how much you will need to trim the ribs.
As woxofswa notes, make sure you include the connectors, both electrical and pitot/static
that might be required.
Also, the top skin is the LAST thing you want to install. Get your wiring complete
before you put the top on followed by the wind screen. I am just finishing
up the wiring and working on the doors. After I finish them, I will put the
gear on, and then the engine. Some where in that stage, I will put the top
cover on, windshield and finish the cowling.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7564#207564
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Vans EI60 alternator |
Just found the pdf for the EI60. It's at
http://www.plane-power.com/installation%20instructions.htm . It contains the
info on the replacement belt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 : [ Terry McMillan ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Terry McMillan
Lists: AeroElectric-list,RV-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV10-List,RV9-List
Subject: Dual Battery System
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca.10.06.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 : [ Harry DeLoach ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Harry DeLoach
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: Leaving Pensacola with a load of Schrimp...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/harry.deloach@navy.mil.10.06.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 : [ Peter James ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Peter James
Lists: RV10-List
Subject: RV-10 Hartzell Prop Spinner Cut Diagram
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Peter.James@sprint.com.10.06.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I will offer that planes constructed such that wiring and avionics done prior to
close-up, without good consideration to maintenance, troubleshooting and upgrades
after construction, will be maintenance and upgrade nightmares. One way
to reduce the risk of this is to put a basic ground work in place prior to close-up
and then perform these functions after closeup. Avionics radio racks are
relatively standard and you can find the exact measurements for each possible
device in the installation manuals. This is why you can put an avionics device
in an aircraft manufactured 40 years ago and not have to "rebuild" the aircraft--in
most cases. The secondary benefit is that it allows you to wait until
the last possible moment before you purchase your avionics.
My top skin and lid is on. All electrical work was done after this and in such
a ways that I can re-do at any time without any extraordinary methods. I have
standard radio rack rails, front and rear that are 6.375" wide to allow for
most radio racks and associated clip-nuts. Also, I see a lot of builders using
nyloc nuts to hold their radio racks in place. These are easy enough to install
when things are open but will be very difficult to remove and replace when
the panel is in place. The standard for holding radio racks in place on certified
aircraft is to use floating clip-nuts. This is but one of those minor
changes that can make a big difference for maintenance and post construction installations.
If you construct your aircraft in such a way that system installations can only
be done during construction, you better hope the installation is perfect and
you will never want to upgrade. Consider not only the installation, but also
post construction maintenance and upgrades.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage41m.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> woxofswa wrote:
> > I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do
now.
> >
> > I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
> >
> > I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to
mod the ribs.
> >
> > Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
>
> Get your instruments or exact mock up of them, lay out your panel and then figure
out how much you will need to trim the ribs.
> As woxofswa notes, make sure you include the connectors, both electrical and
pitot/static that might be required.
> Also, the top skin is the LAST thing you want to install. Get your wiring complete
before you put the top on followed by the wind screen. I am just finishing
up the wiring and working on the doors. After I finish them, I will put
the gear on, and then the engine. Some where in that stage, I will put the top
cover on, windshield and finish the cowling.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7564#207564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowling bubble |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
My hangarmate just completed a Glastar Sportsman and needed to add a bulge on the
fiberglass cowling to accommodate some accessory. So they marked the spot,
cut a circular hole, made a form using an object of appropriate size (in the
hole) and glassed over it. After sanding, the bump-out looks like it belongs there
and it provides the clearance they were looking for.
I'm not so comfortable with fiberglass myself, and have avoided those parts of
the wingtips so far...
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Tail mostly done, wings complete, middle of SB fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7690#207690
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowling bubble |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
ddnebert wrote:
> I'm not so comfortable with fiberglass myself, and have avoided those parts of
the wingtips so far...
FWIW, I just went to one of the SportAir 2 day workshops on composites
last weekend. Prior to the class, I felt as you do. Now, I am
completely confident that I could do a cowling bubble or wingtips, and
although time consuming, it is actually pretty easy.
Spend a weekend at one of the SportAir classes - you won't regret it! :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over the fuel
selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough to put
the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the fasteners
will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run the tube below
the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I cannot for
the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Yes I found this to be a mongrel of a job and my scat now has some
strategically placed heatshrink tape and some additional layers of
electrical tape where the nutplates punched a nice hole while 'deforming
to fit'.
Cheers
Ron
-187 painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, 7 October 2008 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over
the fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube
enough to put the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the
screws from the fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used
a splitter or run the tube below the valve between the fuel lines and
the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I
cannot for the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
You can run the tube where ever you want keeping in mind that you will want
to be able to inspect/replace the fuel filter and have access to items in
the tunnel. If you plan on running it underneath the selector make sure it
does not interfere with the fuel lines. Some builders have placed the
selector much lower than Van did and used an extension shaft for the
selector knob. The fuel line routing from an Andair selector is somewhat
different that from Vans fuel selector.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over the
fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough to
put the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the
fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run
the tube below the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I cannot
for the life of me figure out why.
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
You are probably aware that Van would prefer that those ribs not be modified
although many builders have found it necessary to do so. I would not hasten
that step though-after you get your avionics you may find altering the
position even slightly can change the amount of modification necessary. And
as others have pointed out you need clearance for more than just the tray.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have
modified the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have
my avionics picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much
easier to do now.
I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to
mod the ribs.
Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
I know at least one person who put in a reducer and used smaller
sized duct going by the valve, or it wouldn't have fit very
well.
Myself though, I used the Andair valve with a handle extension.
This keeps the fuel lines down lower, away from that hot
(yes, it gets pretty hot) SCAT tube, and gives more room for
it to pass between the valve handle extension and the tunnel wall,
also keeping it more clear from those screws, nutplates, and
rudder cables.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
AirMike wrote:
>
> The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes
> over the fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my
> scat tube enough to put the front section of the cover on the tunnel.
> Also the screws from the fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has
> anyone used a splitter or run the tube below the valve between the
> fuel lines and the valve?
>
> I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I
> cannot for the life of me figure out why.
>
> -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit -
> wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <aarongleixner(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
I just struggled with the same issue recently and was unable to come up wit
h an elegant solution.- Unfortunately this is just a case where Van's des
ign department took a shortcut to the detriment of us all.- In the end, I
ran the tube under the valve support, next to the valve.- This worked wi
th a little flattening of the scat tube.- Use plenty of RTV to cushion th
e tube from the surrounding metal components.- I'm hopeful that there is
enough space between the scat and valve that heat will not be a problem.-
After trying several sample pieces, I was unable to get the scat over the
top without puncturing the tubing in some way.- Would love to hear if oth
ers have developed a better solution using Van's valve setup.
--- On Tue, 10/7/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
Date: Tuesday, October 7, 2008, 2:04 AM
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over th
e
fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough t
o put
the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the fast
eners
will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run the tube be
low
the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I canno
t
for the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
I managed to force mine into place per the plans but wasn't real impressed
with it. When I upgraded to the Andair fuel valve I rerouted the hose to
below the valve. Tim made some good comments about keeping the heat away
from the fuel lines, but the hose fits much better now and I haven't had any
issues.
Marcus.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 1:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over the
fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough to
put the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the
fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run
the tube below the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I cannot
for the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel valve.
Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks again to all
the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this project without
this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual donation.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel planning with Van's stock instrument panel |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am finally coming to the end of the line on my install of the panel and associated
wiring. I am using the stock Vans panel (main upper panel, lower panel for
breakers, and throttle extension)
One of my goals has been to make the panel fully removable should the need arise
or should I want to make a major makeover.
The amp plugs help that a great deal, in making the panel removable, but one big
thing you should be aware of.
[b]Note: it is impossible to install (or remove) the entire panel as a unit in
the RV10 [/b entire panel meaning the upper and lower parts.
The lower panel on the RV10 has to be completely removed from the upper panel in
order to install the upper (larger part) in the aircraft after the windscreen
is installed. This can be done by completely removing all breakers and wires
from the lower panel and detaching it from the upper panel. The lower panel can
then be shoehorned in and out with care.
I also relieved the corner on the part F1042 that protrudes in a sharp point just
next to the door. This makes the panel install a bit easier and probably is
a good ideas for general cabin safety.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7916#207916
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
If you're going to run that SCAT right next to fuel lines or the
valve, I'd strongly recommend wrapping the line in reflective
1/4" insulation to keep the heat from being spread to the
valve and lines.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
AirMike wrote:
>
> I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel valve.
Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks again to all
the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this project
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual donation.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I second Tim's responsible post of separating combustible fluids from
electrical and heat sources. The tunnel does not win any design awards
for either function or aesthetics. Remember to leave access or ability
to remove obstructions when you need to service the fuel pump or fuel
filter. Keep an eye open for chaffing. After all these months, the
beauty of the Andair valve remains a wondrous improvement.
23 days to Matt's Annual Fund Drive
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
If you're going to run that SCAT right next to fuel lines or the
valve, I'd strongly recommend wrapping the line in reflective
1/4" insulation to keep the heat from being spread to the
valve and lines.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
AirMike wrote:
>
> I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the
fuel valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it.
Thanks again to all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could
get through this project without this web site. Remember Matt when it is
time for his annual donation.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone inter
ested in the perfect solution to this problem.- My brother is designing a
nd then will make a plenim type system that will slip right over the fuel s
elector valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2" round to match up
to the scat tubing.- The total area will be slightly more than the origin
al scat.... not counting if you do it like Van's suggest, and smash it.-
A little rubber on the bottom and top, and it will be held perfectly in pla
ce.- Just let me know how many would be interested.- Will have pictures
of a completed part within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks aga
in to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this pro
ject
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual donatio
n.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
We're with Tim. If you wrap the tube with a thin heat barrier type fabric
you can run it anywhere in the tunnel. We're using a product from
http://www.chapmaninnovations.com/. You can use the product on the firewall
too.
Rick
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone
interested in the perfect solution to this problem. My brother is designing
and then will make a plenim type system that will slip right over the fuel
selector valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2" round to match up
to the scat tubing. The total area will be slightly more than the original
scat.... not counting if you do it like Van's suggest, and smash it. A
little rubber on the bottom and top, and it will be held perfectly in place.
Just let me know how many would be interested. Will have pictures of a
completed part within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks
again to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this
project
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual
donation.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Cox is in for Two Sets.
John Cox - #40600
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone
interested in the perfect solution to this problem. My brother is
designing and then will make a plenim type system that will slip right
over the fuel selector valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2"
round to match up to the scat tubing. The total area will be slightly
more than the original scat.... not counting if you do it like Van's
suggest, and smash it. A little rubber on the bottom and top, and it
will be held perfectly in place. Just let me know how many would be
interested. Will have pictures of a completed part within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under
the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it.
Thanks again to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get
through this project
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his
annual donation.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
| From: | fixitauto(at)aol.com |
I would like one also.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Sent: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 5:34 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Cox is in for Two Sets.
=C2-
John Cox - #40600
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
=C2-
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone intere
sted in the perfect solution to this problem.=C2- My brother is designing
and then will make a plenim type system that will slip right over the fuel s
elector valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2" round to match up t
o the scat tubing.=C2- The total area will be slightly more than the origi
nal scat.... not counting if you do it like Van's suggest, and smash it.=C2
- A little rubber on the bottom and top, and it will be held perfectly in
place.=C2- Just let me know how many would be interested.=C2- Will have
pictures of a completed part within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
=C2-
I wound up taking
Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks agai
n to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this proj
ect
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual donation
.
=C2-
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
Read this topic online here:
=C2-
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-========================
======3D===
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com
/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
I'll take one.
Kelly
On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 1:27 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone
> interested in the perfect solution to this problem. My brother is designing
> and then will make a plenim type system that will slip right over the fuel
> selector valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2" round to match up
> to the scat tubing. The total area will be slightly more than the original
> scat.... not counting if you do it like Van's suggest, and smash it. A
> little rubber on the bottom and top, and it will be held perfectly in
> place. Just let me know how many would be interested. Will have pictures
> of a completed part within a week or so.
> Don
>
> --- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
>
> From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
>
>
>
> I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
> valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks
> again to
> all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this
> project
> without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual
> donation.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice request for N.E. trip (PA, NY, CT, RI, MA, NH, ME, |
VT
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
It should be really easy.. NYC Class B goes only to 7,000ft... One option is
to follow V16... fly right over JFK... fly over Long Island (Deer Park, Calverton),
then zip across a little water onto CT side... and fly right to BOS area
(I'm guessing you're going to Norwood??)
Should be a pretty cool trip.. 7,500 and higher will keep you above Class B.. ..
on a nice day, you should have magnificent views of Manhattan...
Enjoy it...
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8001#208001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice request for N.E. trip (PA, NY, CT, RI, MA, NH, ME, |
VT)
If you want to preserve your sanity and wallet, I'd avoid Teterboro.
Just check the Airnav prices and comments.
Lincoln Park and Caldwell are both nearby, have Enterprise available
and much less expensive. I've parked at CDW on 3 different trips this
year, with no problem...new FBO Avantair is cheaper than McDan, with
less facilities...depends on your needs.
On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 6:58 PM, wrote:
> Hi Tim
>
> I am an ex-New Yorker now living (and building) in the Berkshire Mountain
> region of western Ma. If you are planning on visiting the greater NY metro
> area, you can really see the city well.
> There is a VFR corridor from lower NY habor heading up the Hudosn River
> overflying the Statue of Liberty with a great view of Manhattan. If you are
> planning on spending any time in the City (NY that is) Teterboro Airport in
> New Jersey is a good place to overnight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice request for N.E. trip (PA, NY, CT, RI, MA, NH, |
ME, VT)
I'm an ex-NYer too - Just came back and used McDan at Caldwell. Not
bad but I may try Avantair next time.
VFR over the top of Manhattan can be nice on a clear day - lot's of them
this time of the year. Flying over at dusk and watching it light up
(the Maule is slow) is like a video game.
The Hudson River corridor is nice too but requires study and a plan.
Enjoy it Tim - keep an eye out for migrating birds.
Bill
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> If you want to preserve your sanity and wallet, I'd avoid Teterboro.
> Just check the Airnav prices and comments.
> Lincoln Park and Caldwell are both nearby, have Enterprise available
> and much less expensive. I've parked at CDW on 3 different trips this
> year, with no problem...new FBO Avantair is cheaper than McDan, with
> less facilities...depends on your needs.
>
> On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 6:58 PM, wrote:
>
>> Hi Tim
>>
>> I am an ex-New Yorker now living (and building) in the Berkshire Mountain
>> region of western Ma. If you are planning on visiting the greater NY metro
>> area, you can really see the city well.
>> There is a VFR corridor from lower NY habor heading up the Hudosn River
>> overflying the Statue of Liberty with a great view of Manhattan. If you are
>> planning on spending any time in the City (NY that is) Teterboro Airport in
>> New Jersey is a good place to overnight.
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Don,
Count me in for one as well. I've been trying to fabricate something like that
for the past few days and keep running into problems with materials.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8031#208031
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bowman" <davidbowman1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
I'm in for one
Bowman-40831
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy....
anyone interested in the perfect solution to this problem. My brother
is designing and then will make a plenim type system that will slip
right over the fuel selector valve on both sides, then convert back to
the 2" round to match up to the scat tubing. The total area will be
slightly more than the original scat.... not counting if you do it like
Van's suggest, and smash it. A little rubber on the bottom and top, and
it will be held perfectly in place. Just let me know how many would be
interested. Will have pictures of a completed part within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks
again to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this
project
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual
donation.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
count me in for one
DLUDD #40466
In a message dated 10/9/2008 12:40:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
davidbowman1(at)verizon.net writes:
I'm in for one
Bowman-40831
----- Original Message -----
From: _Don McDonald_ (mailto:building_partner(at)yahoo.com)
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
OK, guys, this is Don, the harness and headset bracket guy.... anyone
interested in the perfect solution to this problem. My brother is designing and
then will make a plenim type system that will slip right over the fuel selector
valve on both sides, then convert back to the 2" round to match up to the
scat tubing. The total area will be slightly more than the original scat....
not counting if you do it like Van's suggest, and smash it. A little rubber
on the bottom and top, and it will be held perfectly in place. Just let me
know how many would be interested. Will have pictures of a completed part
within a week or so.
Don
--- On Wed, 10/8/08, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 9:49 AM
I wound up taking Aaron's suggestion and routing the line under the fuel
valve. Worried about chafe, and took some measure to prevent it. Thanks again
to
all the great suggestions. I do not think that I could get through this
project
without this web site. Remember Matt when it is time for his annual donation.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7912#207912
3D============================================
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
3D=========================
3D===================
href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
3D==================================
==========
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
3D=====================================
=======
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
I used Van's RV10 AHRS Bracket kit to install the dual AHRS from GRT.
When I bought it, I hadn't even selected GRT yet but figured the kit
would be useful nonetheless. The kit appears to work well and is
pre-drilled for the GRT and the Garmin AHRS. Could be useful for other
AHRS as long as they are not combined with the magnetometer. Photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=63321&row=1
The only un-verified feature is it's alignment with the aircraft axes.
Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Comments?
Now, on to mounting the magnetometers. I've browsed the archives and
seen some of the trays built. It looks like the ideal fuselage location
is right where the rear seat belts attach. Sort of midway between the
elevator trim and elevator autopilot servo which would appear to be the
main potential antagonists. I'd welcome any additional comments from
flying builders regarding magnetometer performance. And any pics of
trays would be appreciated too.
Thanks
Bill "panel, engine, wiring, etc" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
Here's a couple of shots showing what I did.... don't know yet if it works, but
should know next week.
Don.... the bracket guy
--- On Thu, 10/9/08, MauleDriver wrote:
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 3:17 PM
I used Van's RV10 AHRS Bracket kit to install the dual AHRS from GRT.
When I bought it, I hadn't even selected GRT yet but figured the kit
would be useful nonetheless. The kit appears to work well and is
pre-drilled for the GRT and the Garmin AHRS. Could be useful for other
AHRS as long as they are not combined with the magnetometer. Photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=63321&row=1
The only un-verified feature is it's alignment with the aircraft axes.
Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Comments?
Now, on to mounting the magnetometers. I've browsed the archives and
seen some of the trays built. It looks like the ideal fuselage location
is right where the rear seat belts attach. Sort of midway between the
elevator trim and elevator autopilot servo which would appear to be the
main potential antagonists. I'd welcome any additional comments from
flying builders regarding magnetometer performance. And any pics of
trays would be appreciated too.
Thanks
Bill "panel, engine, wiring, etc" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
Don-
Your comment about mounting the magnetometer (and possibly the AHRS) at the
lateral center between the rear seat mount attach point is dead on target.
I have been flying with a Xbow unit which has Magnetometer & Attitude buil
t into one golden cube mounted at this location and have-proven that it i
s accurate with minimum hard iron interference.
-
This is actually a very good location for both functions since a mounting p
late from left side to right side-laying on top of the longeron is automa
tically aligned with the pitch-and roll axis. Mount the unit parallel wit
h a line from nose to tail and its also aligned with the yaw axis. No inter
nal offsets will be needed.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
billderou(at)yahoo.com
-
--- On Thu, 10/9/08, Don McDonald wrote:
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 4:32 PM
Here's a couple of shots showing what I did.... don't know yet if it works,
but should know next week.
Don.... the bracket guy
--- On Thu, 10/9/08, MauleDriver wrote:
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 3:17 PM
I used Van's RV10 AHRS Bracket kit to install the dual AHRS from GRT.
When I bought it, I hadn't even selected GRT yet but figured the kit
would be useful nonetheless. The kit appears to work well and is
pre-drilled for the GRT and the Garmin AHRS. Could be useful for other
AHRS as long as they are not combined with the magnetometer. Photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=
224&category=4053&log=63321&row=1
The only un-verified feature is it's alignment with the aircraft axes.
Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Comments?
Now, on to mounting the magnetometers. I've browsed the archives and
seen some of the trays built. It looks like the ideal fuselage location
is right where the rear seat belts attach. Sort of midway between the
elevator trim and elevator autopilot servo which would appear to be the
main potential antagonists. I'd welcome any additional comments from
flying builders regarding magnetometer performance. And any pics of
trays would be appreciated too.
Thanks
Bill "panel, engine, wiring, etc" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
I can't say how well it works but I'll show pictures.
I fabricated a lightweight shelf using .040" aluminum to attach to the
bulkhead behind the baggage wall. I attached it with aluminum pull rivets
and used nylon lock nuts and bolts. The only concern I have is the weight
on the bulkhead and possible vibration while in flight. The magnetometer
and shelf together are very light so it shouldn't be an issue. I suppose I
could fabricate a bracket to support the bulkhead to the skin above but I
haven't done that and I don't really think it's going to be necessary.
The seat belt cables are not ferrous metal. They don't attract a magnet so
they shouldn't influence the magnetometer at all.
Here's a thread on AFS's forum with some more information including a shot
of Rob's dual install which he says has worked w/o incident.
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10
-Ben Westfall
#40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 3:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
I used Van's RV10 AHRS Bracket kit to install the dual AHRS from GRT.
When I bought it, I hadn't even selected GRT yet but figured the kit
would be useful nonetheless. The kit appears to work well and is
pre-drilled for the GRT and the Garmin AHRS. Could be useful for other
AHRS as long as they are not combined with the magnetometer. Photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&c
ategory=4053&log=63321&row=1
The only un-verified feature is it's alignment with the aircraft axes.
Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Comments?
Now, on to mounting the magnetometers. I've browsed the archives and
seen some of the trays built. It looks like the ideal fuselage location
is right where the rear seat belts attach. Sort of midway between the
elevator trim and elevator autopilot servo which would appear to be the
main potential antagonists. I'd welcome any additional comments from
flying builders regarding magnetometer performance. And any pics of
trays would be appreciated too.
Thanks
Bill "panel, engine, wiring, etc" Watson
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3509 (20081009) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Am interested too but would like to see pictures.
Wayne
F1 Rocket 290 hrs
SARL Racer 14
Checked by AVG.
7:01 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
Real nice bracket - I'm afraid I can't easily produce something quite
like that but it's in a great location. How did you level it?
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I can't say how well it works but I'll show pictures.
>
> I fabricated a lightweight shelf using .040" aluminum to attach to the
> bulkhead behind the baggage wall. I attached it with aluminum pull rivets
> and used nylon lock nuts and bolts. The only concern I have is the weight
> on the bulkhead and possible vibration while in flight. The magnetometer
> and shelf together are very light so it shouldn't be an issue. I suppose I
> could fabricate a bracket to support the bulkhead to the skin above but I
> haven't done that and I don't really think it's going to be necessary.
>
> The seat belt cables are not ferrous metal. They don't attract a magnet so
> they shouldn't influence the magnetometer at all.
>
> Here's a thread on AFS's forum with some more information including a shot
> of Rob's dual install which he says has worked w/o incident.
>
> http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10
>
> -Ben Westfall
> #40579
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
OK Wayne, pictures it is.... when we get er done.- Unfortunetely, there's
no easy way to make this one.... welding necessary.- But I'll guarantee
that it'll look cool and work perfectly.
As an F1 pilot, thought you might like this photo of my project.- (scoop)
-
Don McDonald
#40636
Finishing the finishing
--- On Fri, 10/10/08, Wayne Hadath wrote:
From: Wayne Hadath <whadath(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 4:52 AM
-Am interested too but would like to see pictures.
Wayne
F1 Rocket 290 hrs
SARL Racer 14
Checked by AVG.
08/10/2008 7:01 AM
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
It was a PIA to make cause I don't really have the equipment for it either.
I laid out a bunch of lines on the aluminum and cut out the shape on the
band saw. Cleaned things up with the wheel and lots of filing then used my
hand seamers from Avery to make the bends. That's why there is a relief cut
in the middle of the shelf as the hand seamers are only 3.5" wide so I bent
the front support in two separate bends. The shelf has a 7 degree downward
tilt to match the backward tilt of the panel.
I leveled the fuselage on the stand across the door sills (which levels the
panel) using a precise carpenters level. I drilled only one attach hole
through the bracket to allow me to pivot the bracket up/down until it was
parallel with the fuse then drilled another attach hole, clecoed, then
drilled the rest. The tilt of the bracket was within 1 to 2 degrees of the
panel. I used some plastic nylon washers to make them closer.
All together took several hours on a couple of different days.
-Ben
MauleDriver wrote:
> Real nice bracket - I'm afraid I can't easily produce something quite
> like that but it's in a great location. How did you level it?
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3513 (20081010) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer |
Ben,
Your shelf looks great. Turns out I am doing the exact same thing.
Thank you for the spare part. It's nice to have good builders living so
close (like 2 miles away).
Also thanks, for the bucking bars and help riveting. My tech adviser has me
drilling out 5 or 6 do-overs.
Paul Grimstad,
RV10 450 fuselage
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 9:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
>I can't say how well it works but I'll show pictures.
>
> I fabricated a lightweight shelf using .040" aluminum to attach to the
> bulkhead behind the baggage wall. I attached it with aluminum pull rivets
> and used nylon lock nuts and bolts. The only concern I have is the weight
> on the bulkhead and possible vibration while in flight. The magnetometer
> and shelf together are very light so it shouldn't be an issue. I suppose I
> could fabricate a bracket to support the bulkhead to the skin above but I
> haven't done that and I don't really think it's going to be necessary.
>
> The seat belt cables are not ferrous metal. They don't attract a magnet
> so
> they shouldn't influence the magnetometer at all.
>
> Here's a thread on AFS's forum with some more information including a shot
> of Rob's dual install which he says has worked w/o incident.
>
> http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10
>
> -Ben Westfall
> #40579
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 3:17 PM
> To: RV10-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV10-List: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
>
>
> I used Van's RV10 AHRS Bracket kit to install the dual AHRS from GRT.
> When I bought it, I hadn't even selected GRT yet but figured the kit
> would be useful nonetheless. The kit appears to work well and is
> pre-drilled for the GRT and the Garmin AHRS. Could be useful for other
> AHRS as long as they are not combined with the magnetometer. Photos
> here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&c
> ategory=4053&log=63321&row=1
>
> The only un-verified feature is it's alignment with the aircraft axes.
> Does anyone have any experience with this setup? Comments?
>
> Now, on to mounting the magnetometers. I've browsed the archives and
> seen some of the trays built. It looks like the ideal fuselage location
> is right where the rear seat belts attach. Sort of midway between the
> elevator trim and elevator autopilot servo which would appear to be the
> main potential antagonists. I'd welcome any additional comments from
> flying builders regarding magnetometer performance. And any pics of
> trays would be appreciated too.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill "panel, engine, wiring, etc" Watson
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature
> database 3509 (20081009) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offered |
If anyone is interested Dave Nellis has been using my interior door handl
es to prototype machined replacements that have the same functionality but
are not as ugly. I know he posted something on this a couple weeks ago but
it sounds like he didn't really get any interest in it. I hate to see som
eone put this much work into these and have them go by the way side. I jus
t can't believe people are willing to spend $500 on exterior handles but ar
e not interested in replacing the fugly interior handles.
If you have ANY interest in these let Dave know!
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offered |
I am interested.- What's Dave's email.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 10/11/08, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wr
ote:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles o
ffered
Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 7:51 AM
- If anyone is interested Dave Nellis has been using my interior door han
dles to prototype machined replacements that have the same functionality bu
t are not as ugly.- I know he posted something on this a couple weeks ago
but it sounds like he didn=A2t really get any interest in it.- I hate to
see someone put this much work into these and have them go by the way side
.- I just can=A2t believe people are willing to spend $500 on exterior ha
ndles but are not interested in replacing the fugly interior handles.
-
- If you have ANY interest in these let Dave know!
-
Michael=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fire extinguisher |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
any good ideas for mounting the fire extinguisher?? larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8312#208312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | fire extinguisher |
I used this. Stroud inc OKC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fire extinguisher
any good ideas for mounting the fire extinguisher?? larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8312#208312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | fire extinguisher |
I mounted mine to the right of the pilots stick on the forward wall of the
seat frame.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 3:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fire extinguisher
any good ideas for mounting the fire extinguisher?? larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8312#208312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tech advisers |
Oh, I don't know. I have a tech adviser in-house, maybe not better, but
more accessible. :-P
I'd rather keep the smiles off the skins...tougher to fix than the
rivets. Keep up the good work.
KM
Paul Grimstad wrote:
>
>
> Kelly,
> You can't find a better tech adviser. He said keep the smile on your
> face and off the rivet.
> Some rivets are sure challanging, but better then fiberglass.
> Paul
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fire extinguisher |
I mounted mine on the flap cover of the right passenger seat. Right
against the floor.
Dr Fred
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> any good ideas for mounting the fire extinguisher?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8312#208312
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternate Static Air Valve |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control alternate static
air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot find anything in
the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have information about that valve?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8341#208341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Air Valve |
Dave,
I can't remember where to get it, but I believe it's made by Clippard.
Sean Blair
#40225
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
>
> A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control alternate
> static air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot find anything
in
> the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have information about that valve?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8341#208341
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dave,
I can't remember where to get it, but I believe it's made by Clippard.
Sean Blair
#40225
brows
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Air Valve |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's where I got them...
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2SP
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8347#208347
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offered |
Whats the price?
Pat Thyssen
--- On Sat, 10/11/08, Don McDonald wrote:
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handl
es offered
Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 10:57 AM
I am interested.- What's Dave's email.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 10/11/08, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wr
ote:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles o
ffered
Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 7:51 AM
- If anyone is interested Dave Nellis has been using my interior door han
dles to prototype machined replacements that have the same functionality bu
t are not as ugly.- I know he posted something on this a couple weeks ago
but it sounds like he didn=A2t really get any interest in it.- I hate to
see someone put this much work into these and have them go by the way side
.- I just can=A2t believe people are willing to spend $500 on exterior ha
ndles but are not interested in replacing the fugly interior handles.
-
- If you have ANY interest in these let Dave know!
-
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Air Valve |
David,
I installed a alternate static source that I got from Safeair1
http://www.safeair1.com/SA1_products/AirKits.htm They sell a complete
pitot static system that I think is quite good. This alternate air is
very simple to install, you just put a connector inline to your
pitot/static system with a pull cord to activate the alternate air. I
installed the alternate air under the panel just forward of my left
knee so I can just reach down and pull out the quick release plug if I
need to.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
flying N602WT
Subject: Alternate Static Air Valve
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control
alternate static
air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot find
anything in
the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have information
about that valve?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles |
offered
Sorry, knew I was forgetting something. He is a member of this list but
his direct email is davidnellis691 at comcast.net. I'll post more pictures
and my impression of them as soon as I have them back.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handl
es offered
I am interested. What's Dave's email.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 10/11/08, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wr
ote:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles o
ffered
Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 7:51 AM
If anyone is interested Dave Nellis has been using my interior door handl
es to prototype machined replacements that have the same functionality but
are not as ugly. I know he posted something on this a couple weeks ago but
it sounds like he didn=A2t really get any interest in it. I hate to see s
omeone put this much work into these and have them go by the way side. I j
ust can=A2t believe people are willing to spend $500 on exterior handles bu
t are not interested in replacing the fugly interior handles.
If you have ANY interest in these let Dave know!
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | When to install door windows |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Some time today, I should finish the second door installation. That is on the
hinges and trimmed to fit. Van's plans say to next install the windows. I would
like to hold off and complete the locking hardware before I install the windows.
I would like to hold off for several reasons, one being weight as the door will
be on and off many more times and also to minimize the possibility of scratching
them.
My question is, is there any valid reason against moving the installation of the
windows to after the door lock hardware is installed?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8371#208371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate Static Air Valve |
Curtiss valve is used. Check far left of panel and zoom in.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 9:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate Static Air Valve
A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control alternate
static air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot find
anything in the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have information
about that valve?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8341#208341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate Static Air Valve |
I used McMaster-Carr P/N 6791T13, for $11. It works great. It was in the
system for the static check to 20,000'--no leaks.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 9:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate Static Air Valve
A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control alternate
static air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot find
anything in the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have information
about that valve?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8341#208341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | When to install door windows |
Gary,
I don't see any reason you couldn't hold off until after the mechanisms are
installed. It shouldn't make any difference.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 8:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: When to install door windows
Some time today, I should finish the second door installation. That is on
the hinges and trimmed to fit. Van's plans say to next install the windows.
I would like to hold off and complete the locking hardware before I install
September 19, 2008 - October 12, 2008
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ds