RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dt

October 12, 2008 - November 02, 2008



      the windows.
      I would like to hold off for several reasons, one being weight as the door
      will be on and off many more times and also to minimize the possibility of
      scratching them.
      
      My question is, is there any valid reason against moving the installation of
      the windows to after the door lock hardware is installed?
      
      --------
      Gary Blankenbiller
      RV10 - # 40674
      Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
      (N2GB registered)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8371#208371
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Alternate Static Air Valve
Date: Oct 12, 2008
I have this page bookmarked: http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 11:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Alternate Static Air Valve > > A couple of years ago, I saw a mechanical switch/valve to control > alternate static air in one of the forums. It was panel mounted. I cannot > find anything in the archives about it. Does anyone happen to have > information about that valve? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8341#208341 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2008
Subject: Mounting GRT AHRS & Magnetometer
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
While I"m leaning toward AFS, when I was considering GRT, I built this AHRS "shelf" just aft of the firewall. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage31f.html http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage31q.html Since the magnetometer is separate from the gyro, I didn't see the need to mount it any further from the displays only to run a bunch of wires to that location when there is ready space in this location. GRT has the footprint for their AHRS on their website and I used it to pre install plate-nuts in the mounting positions. If I don't go with GRT I can always use it form something else. http://www.grtavionics.com/File/Install%20Manuals/ahrs_b.pdf William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Harness and headset brackets
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2008
If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these send me a quick email to let me know if you received them. Thanks, Don McDonald Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions? -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Date: Oct 12, 2008
Don; Received mine. Thanks! Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets > > If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send me a quick email to let me know if you received them. > Thanks, Don McDonald > > Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternate Static Air Valve
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 12, 2008
David, There is also a panel mounted switch that somebody bought from McMaster-Carr. Look for part number 6791T12 for $14.15 (metal switch) or 6791T13 for $11.51 (plastic switch). John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8418#208418 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
For God's sake, you know, that I know, that you received yours!--- (- -; --- On Sun, 10/12/08, pascal wrote: From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 2:18 PM Don; Received mine. Thanks! Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets > > If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send me a quick email to let me know if you received them. > Thanks, Don McDonald > > Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414 > > > =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 12, 2008
Don, I received both as requested. I haven't gotten to the installation yet but they look good. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444#208444 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em'. Don --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy wrote: From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 5:32 PM Don, I received both as requested. I haven't gotten to the installation yet but they look good. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444#208444 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Date: Oct 12, 2008
you asked I answered! From: Don McDonald Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 4:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets For God's sake, you know, that I know, that you received yours! (--; --- On Sun, 10/12/08, pascal wrote: From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 2:18 PM Don; Received mine. Thanks! Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets > > If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send me a quick email to let me know if you received them. > Thanks, Don McDonald > > Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions? > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414 > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fire extinguisher
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2008
I will be mounting the fire extinguisher horizontally below the control stick. There is enough room for a small extinguisher to be mounted in this location. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8477#208477 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternator wire length - request
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
I am installing the main #8 wire from the panel to the alternator. Due to the breaker location on the panel, I think that I might be coming up short running it to the alternator. It is called wire #J1 in the Vans wiring kit. Question? To run it to the alternator - how much wire (length) do you need in front of the firewall where it emerges from the left side of the firewall to the alternator. If I do not have enough #8 wire, I will have to buy a new one as I was told on the high voltage wires to NOT solder them together or make any type of break in the wire. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8539#208539 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Alternator wire length - request
Date: Oct 13, 2008
Its easrier to run the alternator wire inside from the breaker to the right side of the firewall as the alternator will be on the right side of the engine. Also do not understand the high voltage business as the highest voltage they will see is about 14v DC. Inserta a piece of #8 with butt connectors -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 11:12 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternator wire length - request I am installing the main #8 wire from the panel to the alternator. Due to the breaker location on the panel, I think that I might be coming up short running it to the alternator. It is called wire #J1 in the Vans wiring kit. Question? To run it to the alternator - how much wire (length) do you need in front of the firewall where it emerges from the left side of the firewall to the alternator. If I do not have enough #8 wire, I will have to buy a new one as I was told on the high voltage wires to NOT solder them together or make any type of break in the wire. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8539#208539 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Date: Oct 13, 2008
Don Is it to late to order both of theses items I am just starting but would not mind sitting on them until needed. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em'. Don --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy wrote: From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 5:32 PM Don, I received both as requested. I haven't gotten to the installation yet but they look good. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444#208444 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offer
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
In response to Mike's post above, below is the original post thread. Email me direct for more information. Please, look at the pictures I have posted off site. I am adding more pics immediately. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=48900&sid=2cbd4c2bd76e633458ef1c65e7814fa5 -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8627#208627 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
OK guys here it is. Still not sure of the cost/price. It has about 40 minutes of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work. Definitely over $50, but certainly under $100. We'll do the best we can..promise.. but boy is that a nice piece! If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate. Don McDonald If interested make sure I get your mailing address. and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer. I did compress it. -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Heck no, especially for someone who is almost a neighbor.- How was the wi nd this past week.... if it was bad here in the Sac area, it must have been crazy there. Good to have you aboard....- wow, I actually am starting to feel like a b elong in this aviation thing.- I didn't know much about aviation when I s tarted my project in Nov of 2006, and still haven't got my private yet.- At least you're following this board pretty early on.- I knew so little I didn't start following until about 8 months ago. Anyway, I'm almost giving the brackets away..... but they look nice and wor k perfectly.- Is the address below good for shipping?- Did you see the scat tube solution?- Don McDonald #40636 --- On Mon, 10/13/08, John Cumins wrote: From: John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 5:21 PM Don - Is it to late to order both of theses items I am just starting but would no t mind sitting on them until needed.- - John G. Cumins President - JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax - Your Total Technology Solution Provider From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@ matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets - Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em'. Don --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy wrote: From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets keflyboy" -Don,I received both as requested.- I h aven't gotten to the installation yet butthey look good. ---------Dave Mo oreRV-6 flyingRV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell - - - -Read this topic online here: -http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444 #208444 - - - - - - - - - - - - -http://www.matronics.com/contribution - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Nice piece Don, The price is smokin if anyone knows what this type of work costs...I can't use it though, I used the standard Andair mounted to the top of the tunnel with braided lines run to one side of the tunnel and the scat run to the other side. If it is designed to use the standard Vans CRAPPO valve, (I know some love that boiler equipment) or the Andair with the handle extension it looks like the way to go... Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:16:52 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION OK guys here it is. Still not sure of the cost/price. It has about 40 minutes of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work. Definitely over $50, but certainly under $100. We'll do the best we can..promise.. but boy is that a nice piece! If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate. Don McDonald If interested make sure I get your mailing address. and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer. I did compress it. -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator Trim Tab Travel
Date: Oct 13, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Hi Everyone, I just finished my elevators and I have a question about the trim tabs. How much deflection should the trim tab have with a neutral elevator, nose up elevator, nose down elevator? The reason I'm asking is that one of my hinges has a 'catch' in it. If I lift the trim tab up all the way, it travels freely. If I push it down from neutral, it catches "aka: binds" before releasing to operate freely. I'm thinking that the binding action may be well beyond the limits we'll set the plane up for at a later step. 1) What are these limits? 2) Has anyone seen this - if so what did you do? 3) Does the hinge eventually wear over time and loosen up? If so, that will probably eliminate all areas of concern. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Thanks Rick. --- On Mon, 10/13/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 7:10 PM Nice piece Don, The price is smokin if anyone knows what this type of work costs...I can't use it though, I used the standard Andair mounted to the top of the tunnel with braided lines run to one side of the tunnel and the scat run to the other side. If it is designed to use the standard Vans CRAPPO valve, (I know some love that boiler equipment) or the Andair with the handle extension it looks like the way to go... Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:16:52 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION OK guys here it is. Still not sure of the cost/price. It has about 40 minutes of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work. Definitely over $50, but certainly under $100. We'll do the best we can..promise.. but boy is that a nice piece! If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate. Don McDonald If interested make sure I get your mailing address. and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer. I did compress it. -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator wire length - request
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
I would not splice theses wires, it just creates a failure point. Have you considered just running the alternator output to the battery side of the starter contactor? You could then run a wire from there to the distribution bus. I am not familiar with Van's schematic so I don't know if this will work for you. Nevertheless you can get #8 wire at your Home Depot aircraft parts store. It does not have to be tefzel for this application. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8654#208654 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator wire length - request
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
I really only need to know the length from the left side FW penetration now. I only have 60" in front of the Firewall now at the left corner next to the starter relay. I do not want to add a additional firewall penetration. I need to run the alt output separate as it is monitored on the AFS3500 system from a shunt on the sub panel inside the cockpit -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8661#208661 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: When to install door windows
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 13, 2008
I endorse Dave Saylor's comment. Hold off till the locks are in. Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay for the very expensive seal gas strut replacements. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8669#208669 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2008
Subject: Cab o Sil substitute
Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil? I don't know of any big differences but figured I would check with some of our glass gurus just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator Trim Tab Travel
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
I had a similar problem with binding on one side. I had let the rivet line move a little when drilling and created a small angle across the span of the hinge half. I replaced the hinge half and corrected the problem. Verify that the binding is not working the elevator skins. My did. Bobby Hughes 40116 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 9:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Tab Travel Hi Everyone, I just finished my elevators and I have a question about the trim tabs. How much deflection should the trim tab have with a neutral elevator, nose up elevator, nose down elevator? The reason I'm asking is that one of my hinges has a 'catch' in it. If I lift the trim tab up all the way, it travels freely. If I push it down from neutral, it catches "aka: binds" before releasing to operate freely. I'm thinking that the binding action may be well beyond the limits we'll set the plane up for at a later step. 1) What are these limits? 2) Has anyone seen this - if so what did you do? 3) Does the hinge eventually wear over time and loosen up? If so, that will probably eliminate all areas of concern. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2008
Don, I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem for most of us. The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away. The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Date: Oct 14, 2008
IIRC the vans valve does not lock in a given position; no positive detent for left or right or off. It could be nudged and inadvertently to off or to some intermediate position in flight? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:06 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION --> Don, I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem for most of us. The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away. The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cab o Sil substitute
I used the West System colodial silica. Its purpose as I understand it is to prevent/reduce the epoxies properties to 'bleed', so that the epoxy doesn't leech out of the joint while curing. Deems RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil? I don't know of any big differences but figured I would check with some of our glass gurus just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave? > > Michael > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-10 door gas strut longevity
Date: Oct 14, 2008
If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when the plane is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying? I have a pair of these (same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car. The car is a 1984 and they are original and they still work just fine. Lets hope the RV-10 door struts are of equal or better quality. Paul Hahn #40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting. original message: "........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay for the very expensive seal gas strut replacements." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
I've also heard that in the past they have leaked over time. I believe some people were replacing the seals in it proactively with better ones. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:25 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION IIRC the vans valve does not lock in a given position; no positive detent for left or right or off. It could be nudged and inadvertently to off or to some intermediate position in flight? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:06 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION --> Don, I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem for most of us. The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away. The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity
The struts are basic automotive struts, I already found them at Pepboys, If I recall they are for Lincoln Bonnets or hood to us Yanks. They should las t many years but are easily found to replace. About $30 a strut. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 9:50:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 door gas strut longevity If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when the plane is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying?=C2- I have a p air of these (same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car. The car is a 1984 and they are original and they still work just fine. Lets ho pe the RV-10 door struts are of equal or better quality. Paul Hahn #40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting. original message: "........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay for ====== ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Michael Perry
Date: Oct 14, 2008
I just heard that Michael Perry from Arizona died in a Maule over the weekend. He was registered in our upcoming composite class. Any other news or contact info for his family would be appreciated. Please email me directly. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offere
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2008
Contact me at davidnellis691(at)comcast.net Price is $175.00 plus $10.00 shipping Pictures available at http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com Thanks, Dave Nellis -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8811#208811 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Replacement Interior Door Handles
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2008
For those that are interested, contact me at davidnellis691(at)comcast.net Pictures available at davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com Price is $175.00 plus $10.00 shipping These handles replace the factory interior handles. They are CNC machined and are fitted to your lock mechanism. You need to send me your built or kit for the door lock. There is a picture at the site above that shows the factory handles. I do not need the rack gear but, I do need the pinion. I do not need the outer handle. These handles simply replace the factory handles. The action of the locking mechanism does NOT change. Thank you for the interest, Dave Nellis -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8812#208812 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com
I do know the struts on the car hoods will leak if you get paint over spray on the shafts and then close the hood. Ask me how I know.? During painting the shafts should be protected from over spray if possible. Jeff Nichols #40648 -----Original Message----- From: eagerlee <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> Sent: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:50 am Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 door gas strut longevity If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when the plane is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying?? I have a pair of these (same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car. The car is a 1984 and they are original and they still work just fine. Lets hope the RV-10 door struts are of equal or better quality. Paul Hahn #40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting. ? original message: "........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay for the very expensive seal gas strut replacements." ? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John, The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:05:32 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Don, I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem for most of us. The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away. The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) -
SOLUTION)
Date: Oct 14, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I vote for the Andair valve. I had a stock Vans valve on my -4 and it leaked, I swapped it for the Andair and no problems after that. I had a stock Vans valve on my 6A and it leaked, smelled of gas in the cockpit and moistened my hand on every fuel change. That got me to stop smoking on long flights. I swapped that one for an Andair valve and again problem solved. Let me tell you it's a lot easier to build one into your construction than to retrofit one later. I dont know where fuel management ranks in flight safety but I bet it's in the top 3. Why not spring for the best valve available. You will feel great about your choice every time you swap tanks. Find someplace else to save. I consider this a mandatory upgrade. Robin BTW for those that still dont get my humor I was kidding about smoking. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 6:40 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION John, The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) Rick Sked 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16
Date: Oct 14, 2008
Yikes, almost forgot. I'll give you a call tomorrow and give a cc number. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 4:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16 OK, let's make that November 15 and 16, which should really be a Saturday and Sunday. Just to be complete: This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top. Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first come, first served, no additional charge. Who: Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites. I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State. When: November 15 & 16, 2008 8AM-4PM Saturday 8AM-3PM Sunday Where: AirCrafters LLC Watsonville Airport (KWVI) 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Class size is limited to 15 builders Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 7. Balance due before class starts. Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI. Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics. Many thanks for your interest, Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com **************************************************************************** **************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 15, 2008
Rick, I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the box and some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valve and has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other. The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugly. So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication of a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve. If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would still be in ignorant bliss...... John ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote: > John, > > The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) > > Rick Sked > 40185 > > --- :( -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Cab o Sil substitute
Date: Oct 15, 2008
FWIW I have used them interchangeably, and I'd guess that they are from the same bin- but that's a guess only. Added to flox or glass microfiber mixtures, they make it easier to get a smoother surface and nicer flow when applying, thus less sanding next day. Disclaimer: I'm no fiberglass expert by a very long shot. John Ackerman On Oct 14, 2008, at 8:33 AM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I used the West System colodial silica. Its purpose as I understand > it is to prevent/reduce the epoxies properties to 'bleed', so that > the epoxy doesn't leech out of the joint while curing. > > Deems > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >> > >> >> Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil? >> I don't know of any big differences but figured I would check with >> some of our glass gurus just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave? >> >> Michael >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: efdsteve(at)aol.com
Received.? Thank you. Steve Weinstock 40230 -----Original Message----- From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Sent: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 4:18 pm Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets ? Don;? Received mine.? Thanks!? Pascal? ? --------------------------------------------------? From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>? Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM? Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets? ? >? > If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send me a quick email to let me know if you received them.? > Thanks, Don McDonald? >? > Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions?? >? > --------? > Don A. McDonald? > 40636? >? >? >? >? > Read this topic online here:? >? > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414? >? >? >? >? >? >? >? >? >? >? > ? ? ? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John, For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for the weathervane. I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. My install was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the hard aluminum. This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and the scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. My valve stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that goes to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is installed and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and into the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Rick, I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the box and some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valve and has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other. The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugly. So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication of a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve. If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would still be in ignorant bliss...... John ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote: > John, > > The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) > > Rick Sked > 40185 > > --- :( -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Hey Rick here is the solution one of our local RV10 builder has. Don't inst all a back Heat outlet. Patrick Thyssen PS:-It's a-cheap fix --- On Wed, 10/15/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 2:21 PM John, For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for th e weathervane. I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. M y install was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the hard aluminum. This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and the scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. M y valve stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that goes to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is insta lled and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and into the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Rick, I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the bo x and some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valv e and has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other. The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugl y. So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication o f a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve. If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would still be in ignorant bliss...... John ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote: > John, > > The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hou rs. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. B ut then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, bu t you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) > > Rick Sked > 40185 > > --- :( -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Yeah but it get so chilly here in Las Vegas...I really don't plan much back seat pass. So I did give that some consideration...Tim on the other hand h as his girls and it is REALLY cold in his part of the country. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Thyssen" <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 12:58:39 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angele s Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Hey Rick here is the solution one of our local RV10 builder has. Don't inst all a back Heat outlet. Patrick Thyssen PS:=C2-It's a=C2-cheap fix --- On Wed, 10/15/08, Rick Sked wrote: From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 2:21 PM John, For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for th e weathervane. I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. M y install was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the hard aluminum. This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and the scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. M y valve stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that goes to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is insta lled and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and into the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION Rick, I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the bo x and some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valv e and has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other. The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugl y. So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication o f a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve. If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would still be in ignorant bliss...... John ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote: > John, > > The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hou rs. I mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. B ut then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, bu t you need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :) > > Rick Sked > 40185 > > --- :( -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Defrost fans
On the subject of the defrost fans; Don't put in chrome fan gaurds, that is unless you don't want to install the optional gun sight. Dr Fred Don't ask me how I know. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cab o Sil substitute
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Oct 15, 2008
Another alternative - this cellulose based structural filler is new on the market, promises to be easier on tools and our lungs. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/350113?&cid=chanintel&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=350113 When we find our glass expert I would like to learn about any tradeoffs associated with this product. -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8954#208954 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Michael Perry online guest book
Date: Oct 15, 2008
Hi all, Most of you probably know by now that Michael Perry (along with Jim Crosby) died in a crash last weekend at LOE. He was a fellow RV-10 builder and all around nice guy. Those of you who wish may sign a guest book his family is having put together online and they will print out a hard copy for his children and family at the upcoming service. His mother requested that I pass along this link to anyone wishing to contribute. http://www.legacy.com/AZCENTRAL/GB/GuestbookView.aspx?PersonId=118789689 I accidentally posted twice, so be patient and realize your comments won't show up right away. Best Regards, Stein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Harness and headset brackets
Thanks.... just wanted to make sure you got it.-- Don --- On Wed, 10/15/08, efdsteve(at)aol.com wrote: From: efdsteve(at)aol.com <efdsteve(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 11:03 AM Received.- Thank you. Steve Weinstock 40230 -----Original Message----- From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Sent: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 4:18 pm Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets - Don;- Received mine.- Thanks!- Pascal- - --------------------------------------------------- From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>- Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM- Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets- - - >- > If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send me a quick email to let me know if you received them.- > Thanks, Don McDonald- >- > Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions? - >- > --------- > Don A. McDonald- > 40636- >- >- >- >- > Read this topic online here:- >- > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414- >- >- >- >- >- >- >- >- >- >- > - - - McCain or Obama? Stay updated on coverage of the Presidential race while yo u browse - Download Now! =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2008
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
Defrost fans needed 5 times in the last 18 months of flying. MOF we use d them Monday AM leaving Goodland, KS ........window was 90% fog taxing to runway. When we got to the runway window was CLEAR. I put in the ve rtical squirrel cage PC fans versus the circular ones.........smaller ho le to cut in the glareshield and less glare issue. IF you ever plan to fly in humid or cool conditions I would definitely put in a defrost syst em. Dean 805HL ____________________________________________________________ Click for FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iieiReeglcX18mfflVjYZUR P1T7QSqTDFkHkg9IFYah9Owbko/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
Date: Oct 15, 2008
You can also just drill a little grid of small holes and no cage is needed. Just screw the fan on underneath the glareshield (screws going in from on top). Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Oct 16, 2008, at 1:02 AM, "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" wrote: > Defrost fans needed 5 times in the last 18 months of flying. MOF we > used them Monday AM leaving Goodland, KS ........window was 90% fog > taxing to runway. When we got to the runway window was CLEAR. I > put in the vertical squirrel cage PC fans versus the circular > ones.........smaller hole to cut in the glareshield and less glare > issue. IF you ever plan to fly in humid or cool conditions I would > definitely put in a defrost system. > > Dean 805HL > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Click for FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 15, 2008
I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about where I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash. The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move the air. For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 15, 2008
It looks like Andrew Angus of Angus aviation in Australia has finally gotten the GA1000 heated pitot back in production after a 6 month hiatus. The contact is Email: andrew(at)angusaviation.com www.angusaviation.com The link is also on the Gretzaero.com site -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8989#208989 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Cab o Sil substitute
Date: Oct 16, 2008
Here is a little primer for those still unsure exactly what product to use when. Straight epoxy is used to lay up fiberglass cloth. This should be done without additives like those listed below. Cabosil is used to stop slumping and running of the epoxy. It does not weaken the epoxy like micro Balloons does. Chopped fibers (chopped fiberglass), Flox (chopped cotton)are used like re-bar to give additional strength to the mix. The down side is that it makes the cured resin a bugger to sand and does not usually give a very smooth surface. Micro or Micro Balloons are small spheres used to extend the resin to make it easier to sand and have less weight than pure epoxy. However the strength of the mix is weaker. The more balloons you add the weaker the mix is. The trick is to analyze your need and then mix up the appropriate material for use. Hopefully this helps a little for those who are just getting there feet wet with this medium. Gary Specketer Dragonfly, Glasair III, Glastar, RV10, Tech counselor -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Turner Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 5:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cab o Sil substitute Another alternative - this cellulose based structural filler is new on the market, promises to be easier on tools and our lungs. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/ 350113?&cid=chanintel&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=350113 When we find our glass expert I would like to learn about any tradeoffs associated with this product. -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8954#208954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
AirMike wrote: > > I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about where I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash. > The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move the air. > > For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions > I find that even black painted glareshields 'reflect' off the inside of the windshield ...... and covered my glareshield in my Grumman (AA-1B) with speaker grille cloth. A real improvement. The grille cloth stretches and the edge was easily glued to the back side ..... used clothespins to hold the cloth while the glue dried. The easy part was that the galreshield in the Grumman is removable while the -10 isn't ..... so I'd do everything I could before installing the windshield. Linn > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
Date: Oct 16, 2008
I used flat black epoxy paint that is intended for propeller aft face painting. It was painted before installation of the windscreen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 6:37 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans --> AirMike wrote: > > I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about where I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash. > The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move the air. > > For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions > I find that even black painted glareshields 'reflect' off the inside of the windshield ...... and covered my glareshield in my Grumman (AA-1B) with speaker grille cloth. A real improvement. The grille cloth stretches and the edge was easily glued to the back side ..... used clothespins to hold the cloth while the glue dried. The easy part was that the galreshield in the Grumman is removable while the -10 isn't ..... so I'd do everything I could before installing the windshield. Linn > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
Hey Mike, where are you located.... you're shopping in my backyard.- I li ve in Granite Bay, and the build is finishing up in hanger J5 in Lincoln. - Got a part number for the fan?- You actually mounted it on top of the das h?- I bought a really nice piece of material at Joanne's.- Fabric made for boats and such.- Appears to have very little reflection.- I drilled out the rivets in the dash holding the doublers for the hand grips, then i nstalled the dash material, then reinstalled the hand grips.- Also added an additional doubler underneath for additional strength.- Then the winds hield went on right over the material. My cell is 916-801-8402 Don McDonald- #40636 --- On Wed, 10/15/08, AirMike wrote: From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 11:40 PM I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about wh ere I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash. The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move the air. For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
Date: Oct 16, 2008
Hi Mike=2C I primed the dash area before installing the windshield making sure the bon ding area for the window was free of paint. Installed computer fans with bl ack grills and am using Cleveland Tools glare shield cover http://www.cleav elandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GSF15. This cover was rough cut be fore installing the windshield and will be final installed very soon. Vern Smith (#324 main gear on & still finishing fiberglass:) > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Date: W ist message posted by: "AirMike" > > I got a really c ool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about where I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash.> The fan cove r is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they run yo u can barely hear them on low=2C but on high they really move the air.> > F or glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions> > --------> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "=3B09> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php? ==============> > > _________________________________________________________________ When your life is on the go=97take your life with you. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2008
Interest has been expressed by several RV-10 enthusiasts for a get-together at the Copperstate fly-in Oct 24,25,26th at Casa Grande AZ. I have volunteered to take an RV (as in fifth wheel) and canopy for a gathering place, along with tables, chairs, etc. I will be set up no later than midday on Friday through Sat night. People are welcome to hang out all they wish. We are planning to have an outdoor movie Friday night. Saturday at 4:30-5 ish, we will have a carne asada buffet with all the fixins. The cost will be a donation basis to offset the expense. I will handle the food. I would appreciate a volunteer(s) to handle beverages. Please email woxof(at)aol.com if you would like to eat at the gathering so I can get a rough idea of a head count. Hope to see you there! Myron Nelson 602 421 2868 -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9070#209070 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2008
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Defrost fans
In my aircraft the defroster fans have been renamed to panel coolers. I hav e a Grand Rapids EIS6000 located at the top-center of the panel that was sh owing 145F internal temp with the outside temp approx 70F. Cut the holes an d added 80mm fans and the temp dropped to 104F in similar conditions. My fa ns are turned on if the avionics are also on. - Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying - --- On Thu, 10/16/08, Vernon Smith wrote: From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 9:20 AM #yiv1398668913 .hmmessage P { margin:0px;padding:0px;} #yiv1398668913 { FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} Hi Mike, - I primed the dash area before installing the windshield making sure the bon ding area for the window was free of paint. Installed computer fans with bl ack grills and am using Cleveland Tools glare shield cover http://www.cleav elandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GSF15.-This cover was rough cut before installing the windshield and will be final installed very soon. - Vern-Smith (#324 main gear on & still finishing fiberglass:)-- > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 23:40:42 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about wh ere I thought that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the d ash. > The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. wh en they run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move t he air. > > For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and ta ke a template of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all before the windshield goes in????? suggestions > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988 > > > > > > > > > When your life is on the go=97take your life with y_new'>Try Windows Mobile =AE today ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2008
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Protecting fat wires from rear battery to firewall
I'm installing a Z-14 dual batt/bus in an RV-10 with the battery and contactors in the rear. I have current limiters on the firewall between the alternators and the panel busses. Should there be some protection in place for the fat wires running from the contactors in the rear and the firewall? Should I consider the ability to manually turn off the power through the contactors sufficient? Thanks in advance all. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Protecting fat wires from rear battery to firewall
I ran that cheap thin wall drip system black pipe the entire way.- I kept my large wires seperate, the antenna wires seperate, and I think I used 2 more, one on each side, for everything else. Don McDonald --- On Thu, 10/16/08, mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote: From: mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> Subject: RV10-List: Protecting fat wires from rear battery to firewall Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 5:14 PM I'm installing a Z-14 dual batt/bus in an RV-10 with the battery and contactors in the rear. I have current limiters on the firewall between the alternators and the panel busses. Should there be some protection in place for the fat wires running from the contactors in the rear and the firewall? Should I consider the ability to manually turn off the power through the contactors sufficient? Thanks in advance all. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Protecting fat wires from rear battery to firewall
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 16, 2008
Because of the large starting currents (in excess of 200 amps) this is difficult to do effectively. These big wires are generally not fused. Use good quality terminations, torque them properly, make sure they are protected with bushings through each bulkhead, inspect them at the annual, then forget about it. The wires that do not support the starter should be protected with a fuse or circuit breaker. But then, they are generally not big and fat. Bob K talks about this in his book. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9112#209112 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firesleeve Size
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Oct 17, 2008
Can anyone tell me the proper size firesleeve to use on pre-made hoses (hoses with crimped on ends, than can not be removed to install the firesleeve)? Looking at Aircraft Spruces catalog the list the ID of the firesleeve, the real question to anyone who has installed this stuff would be does it stretch at all? I have a fuel return line where the OD of the actual hose is .32", but the distance across the points of the end fitting is .62. Should I buy a firesleeve with an ID of .5 or .625, will the .5 firesleeve stretch without damage? Thanks in advance.... Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeve Size
Jason, I cannot answer your question ..... not enough experience ..... but I can help you get it installed. Put one end of the firesleeve on one fitting, and crimp over the other end. Put your air gun into the other fitting and the resulting air pressure will expand the firesleeve so it can be pushed onto the hose. Not easy to do by yourself, though. Linn ]jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote: > > Can anyone tell me the proper size firesleeve to use on pre-made hoses > (hoses with crimped on ends, than can not be removed to install the > firesleeve)? Looking at Aircraft Spruces catalog the list the ID of > the firesleeve, the real question to anyone who has installed this > stuff would be does it stretch at all? I have a fuel return line > where the OD of the actual hose is .32", but the distance across the > points of the end fitting is .62. Should I buy a firesleeve with an > ID of .5 or .625, will the .5 firesleeve stretch without damage? > Thanks in advance.... > > Thanks, Jason Kreidler > 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) > Sheboygan Falls, WI > #40617 > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Firesleeve Size
Date: Oct 17, 2008
Buy the larger size. The fire sleeve needs to be secured to the end fittings with bands so it will need to slide over them. If you stretch the length in the middle the diameter will shrink somewhat, but part of the fire protection is the air space between the hose and the fire sleeve so you want the sleeve not to be overly tight. Gary Specketer 40274Flying _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 8:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Firesleeve Size Can anyone tell me the proper size firesleeve to use on pre-made hoses (hoses with crimped on ends, than can not be removed to install the firesleeve)? Looking at Aircraft Spruces catalog the list the ID of the firesleeve, the real question to anyone who has installed this stuff would be does it stretch at all? I have a fuel return line where the OD of the actual hose is .32", but the distance across the points of the end fitting is .62. Should I buy a firesleeve with an ID of .5 or .625, will the .5 firesleeve stretch without damage? Thanks in advance.... Thanks, Jason Kreidler 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) Sheboygan Falls, WI #40617 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2008
Subject: Firesleeve Size
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
This is probably too late for you but next time, just exclude the hoses from the Van's FWF kit and purchase the integral firesleeve hose kit from aircrafthose.com. The cost for the kit of all hoses with integral firesleeve is less than the cost of regular hoses from Vans in the FWF kit. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: > > Buy the larger size. The fire sleeve needs to be secured to the end > fittings with bands so it will need to slide over them. If you stretch the > length in the middle the diameter will shrink somewhat, but part of the fire > protection is the air space between the hose and the fire sleeve so you want > the sleeve not to be overly tight. > > > > Gary Specketer > > 40274Flying > > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com > Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 8:18 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Firesleeve Size > > > > > Can anyone tell me the proper size firesleeve to use on pre-made hoses > (hoses with crimped on ends, than can not be removed to install the > firesleeve)? Looking at Aircraft Spruces catalog the list the ID of the > firesleeve, the real question to anyone who has installed this stuff would > be does it stretch at all? I have a fuel return line where the OD of the > actual hose is .32", but the distance across the points of the end fitting > is .62. Should I buy a firesleeve with an ID of .5 or .625, will the .5 > firesleeve stretch without damage? Thanks in advance.... > > Thanks, Jason Kreidler > 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) > Sheboygan Falls, WI > #40617 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeve Size
I agree with William, and thank him for itemizing the list of needed hoses. I have PHT hoses on my Mooney...far superior to standard hoses...lighter, easier to install, look great, take less space, and have indefinite life. On Fri, Oct 17, 2008 at 11:58 AM, William Curtis wrote: > > This is probably too late for you but next time, just exclude the hoses from the Van's FWF kit and purchase the integral firesleeve hose kit from aircrafthose.com. The cost for the kit of all hoses with integral firesleeve is less than the cost of regular hoses from Vans in the FWF kit. > > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html > > William > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > > -------- Original Message -------- >> X-Rcpt-To: >> >> Buy the larger size. The fire sleeve needs to be secured to the end >> fittings with bands so it will need to slide over them. If you stretch the >> length in the middle the diameter will shrink somewhat, but part of the fire >> protection is the air space between the hose and the fire sleeve so you want >> the sleeve not to be overly tight. >> >> >> >> Gary Specketer >> >> 40274Flying >> >> >> >> _____ >> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com >> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 8:18 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Firesleeve Size >> >> >> >> >> Can anyone tell me the proper size firesleeve to use on pre-made hoses >> (hoses with crimped on ends, than can not be removed to install the >> firesleeve)? Looking at Aircraft Spruces catalog the list the ID of the >> firesleeve, the real question to anyone who has installed this stuff would >> be does it stretch at all? I have a fuel return line where the OD of the >> actual hose is .32", but the distance across the points of the end fitting >> is .62. Should I buy a firesleeve with an ID of .5 or .625, will the .5 >> firesleeve stretch without damage? Thanks in advance.... >> >> Thanks, Jason Kreidler >> 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner) >> Sheboygan Falls, WI >> #40617 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cheap Dressup of the Rudder Pedals
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 18, 2008
Don't like the John Deere look to your rudder pedals but don't want to spend a fortune replacing them? I did this to my RV-6 about 8 years ago and it still works. Go to your Home Depot aircraft parts store and buy a stair tread, found in the floor covering area. Cut to fit and glue it on. One tread does all four pedals. Available in black and dark brown. Total cost: $2.50 (not counting the glue). -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9265#209265 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/063_844.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: fuel pump wiring
Date: Oct 18, 2008
How are people routing the wiring for their fuel pump and potentially their floscan in the tunnel? Are you routing the wires back and under the seats or forward and up the fuselage? Just curious what ways people have done this... pictures are always nice. THX -Ben Westfall ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 18, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pump wiring
Forward and up the firewall http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2037%20Fuel%20System/slides/DSC06423.html Deems Davis Ben Westfall wrote: > > How are people routing the wiring for their fuel pump and potentially > their floscan in the tunnel? Are you routing the wires back and under > the seats or forward and up the fuselage? Just curious what ways > people have done this... pictures are always nice. > > > > THX > > > > -Ben Westfall > > > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fuel pump wiring
Date: Oct 18, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Tim and Deems have both offered excellent pointers. Dan Checkoway did quite a bit (his RV7 website) on failures of his wire support brackets (Clickbond, DP100, 10 minute epoxy, electric tie wraps and two way tape) along with chafing damage on both wire and sheet aluminum. All of that in his RV7's first year of operation. The SFAR88 mods that are such a nemesis at work, are a result of 20th century (WWII) wiring techniques which needed updating on 21st Century aircraft. Standoffs, distance between supports, routing, proper size of wire, bundling techniques, heat buildup and a plethora of data lead me to say "Ask Stein". A little wire here, a little more wire there and it adds to grams, to ounces, to pounds, and finally to reduced "Useable" weight. You can always pencil whip your GW limitation to keep the VANS approved Useable number (as was recommended by a Hired Gun), "I sure don't encourage that without Static Loading of the Wings and Landing Gear to the new penciled number". The standard is yours to establish. "Trust the force Ben". The Turbanator - John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: fuel pump wiring How are people routing the wiring for their fuel pump and potentially their floscan in the tunnel? Are you routing the wires back and under the seats or forward and up the fuselage? Just curious what ways people have done this... pictures are always nice. THX -Ben Westfall __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3534 (20081018) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: fuel pump wiring
Date: Oct 18, 2008
Curiosity more than anything. I was thinking that if somebody was dead set on one way or another they would have a reason and probably say it. I couldn't quite decide. After looking at it I've decided to head aft with the wires. I'm also starting the stick wiring and safety trim this weekend which are going to be under the seats as well so I'll be able to follow the wiring runs from this. I'd rather not have to add additional Adel clamps and such up front and worry about routing up through the tunnel cover. The less I have to crawl under the dash for in the future is a plus in my opinion. Thanks for everyone's inputs. -Ben Who knows I'll probably change my mind 3 times before I actually proceed. You know how that goes ;-) Linn wrote: >I see no reason to route the wires aft ..... they'll end up terminating >behind the instrument panel anyway. Unless I'm missing something. What >prompted the question??? >Linn ..... Odyssey running .... on the bench. Ben Westfall wrote: > > How are people routing the wiring for their fuel pump and potentially > their floscan in the tunnel? Are you routing the wires back and under > the seats or forward and up the fuselage? Just curious what ways > people have done this... pictures are always nice. > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3535 (20081018) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 Axle Extensions
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 18, 2008
Not sure what most of you have done, but when I saw the extensions supplied with the kit, I knew I needed something different/better. So I machined a new set for myself. Then my neighbor, Mark Carey with a flying 10, told he he sure wished I had made him a set. That was 6 months ago. Last week he called me to tell me that after a hard landing, he broke one of the extensions. So, long story short, I gave him mine, and am now making more. Made out of Aluminum 6061T6, using an AN5 bolt to bolt to the axle nut, instead of the stk AN4. All that's left to do from the user end is drill out the attach hole in the nut, install the AN5 bolt, and drill for a cotter pin. I am initially making 15 sets and am giving them away for $40 a set including shipping. Don McDonald #40636 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 I can hardly wait for Ricks question asking me which one in the picture is the one I made!!!!!! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9327#209327 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2671c_144.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2670c_893.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Axle Extensions
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Oct 18, 2008
Don, Sign me up for a set! Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9329#209329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2008
From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10
I'm in the process of trying to work out where the Pinpoint GADAHRS should be placed. I would be grateful to anyone who has successfully installed their Cheltons using the SV-10 supplied wiring loom could share where they exactly placed their Pinpoint? The instructions supplied by D2A (remember them - some of us would rather forget?) assumed that the Pinpoint went in the area forward of the instrument panel. Looking forward to hearing from all the sages out there and wondering why neither Deems D nor Ron M are flying yet, Rodger Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Axle Extensions
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
Another good deal from Don. Sign me up for a pair - the check's in the mail. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9336#209336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
Subject: RV10 Axle Extensions
There are also these: http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/Billet_Pant_Leg_Extension.html and they look a lot like these: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RVAE10 :) Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 11:46 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Axle Extensions Not sure what most of you have done, but when I saw the extensions supplied with the kit, I knew I needed something different/better. So I machined a new set for myself. Then my neighbor, Mark Carey with a flying 10, told he he sure wished I had made him a set. That was 6 months ago. Last week he called me to tell me that after a hard landing, he broke one of the extensions. So, long story short, I gave him mine, and am now making more. Made out of Aluminum 6061T6, using an AN5 bolt to bolt to the axle nut, instead of the stk AN4. All that's left to do from the user end is drill out the attach hole in the nut, install the AN5 bolt, and drill for a cotter pin. I am initially making 15 sets and am giving them away for $40 a set including shipping. Don McDonald #40636 11460 Elks Circle Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-801-8402 I can hardly wait for Ricks question asking me which one in the picture is the one I made!!!!!! -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9327#209327 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2671c_144.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2670c_893.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10
Date: Oct 19, 2008
I did mount mine forward of the subpanel but have not flown yet. I am really hoping that this location will work out. John Testement N311RV Painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodger Todd Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 2:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10 I'm in the process of trying to work out where the Pinpoint GADAHRS should be placed. I would be grateful to anyone who has successfully installed their Cheltons using the SV-10 supplied wiring loom could share where they exactly placed their Pinpoint? The instructions supplied by D2A (remember them - some of us would rather forget?) assumed that the Pinpoint went in the area forward of the instrument panel. Looking forward to hearing from all the sages out there and wondering why neither Deems D nor Ron M are flying yet, Rodger Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 7:50 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2008
Subject: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Rodger, Have you looked at this thread? http://www.matronics.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49405 William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I'm in the process of trying to work out where the Pinpoint GADAHRS should be placed. I would be grateful to anyone who has successfully installed their Cheltons using the SV-10 supplied wiring loom could share where they exactly placed their Pinpoint? > > The instructions supplied by D2A (remember them - some of us would rather forget?) assumed that the Pinpoint went in the area forward of the instrument panel. > > Looking forward to hearing from all the sages out there and wondering why neither Deems D nor Ron M are flying yet, > > Rodger ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
Due to feedback from several parties, the meal/gathering will be changed to lunch instead of dinner. See you Saturday. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9410#209410 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 kit for sale - save years building!
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
Airframe finished; needs your engine and panel choices. Only the wheel pants and gear fairings not yet done. Save 1,500+ hours of construction labor Extras included: Tru-Trak roll servo installed Angle of Attack Reserve Lift Indicator ASI, Altimeter Landing lights, LED markers, Strobes Fuel level senders CH Products dual grips and trim relay 4 sets Seat Belts Parking Brake valve Tow bar - Bogert Aircraft construction tools: Cleaveland Main Squeeze, rivet gun & bucking bars, L&R shears, dimpler & table, and many more. $85,000 invested; make me an offer Phil White 630/985-1234 philwhite9(at)aol.com Downers Grove, IL (Chi suburb) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9427#209427 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/sales_photos_007_sml_127.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/sales_photos_003_sml_113.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
I put in a bunch of work perfecting my windshield's fit and finish including 220 sanding the edges to perfection. Today with the assistance of my friend Jae who is also building an RV10 we did the install with Weld-on. Having heard the stories about cracks and crazing I took a supreme amount of caution to not over-clamp the plastic. I USED ONLY ENOUGH PRESSURE TO HOLD THE PLASTIC DWN. We used 6 clamps - 3 on each side with quite light pressure. When the clamps were removed, I was appalled to see 6 sets of crazed patterns emanating from the site where the clamps were. I am still dumbfounded, but it is obvious that even the slightest clamping force causes the cracks. I would strongly urge against Weld-on. I had some crazing before on a rear window, but thought that it might have been my fault. WRONG As far as I can see - ANY CLAMPING WITH WELD ON IS TOO MUCH CLAMPING. Dave Saylor has another system. I urge you to look it up and use it. This Weld-On stuff does something to the plastic and screws it up, Appreciate any other comments on Crack-on adhesive -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9428#209428 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2008
I sent Andrew at at Angus my Visa card number. It was scammed with over $2000 in bogus charges from Australia. Use extreme caution in sending payment via charge card. I do not want to infer in any way that Andrew was guilty of any wrongdoing, but his e-mail is definitely not secure. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9429#209429 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 19, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Mike - I am feeling your pain tonight. Photographers with a Polarizing lens (one that rotates perpendicular to the lines of illumination) can rotate the lens and read the stress induced lines that are introduced into the plexi. It's a Mr. Wizard or Nye the Science Guy kind of thing. Polarizing sunglasses with discrete use and placement of the light (illumination) source will do the same thing. It is amazing the stress that is applied when clamping plexi. Weld On chemically alters the plexi to affect the adhesion properties of the product. Solvents present in Weld-On do their chemistry by magic. In A&P school I "stop drilled" a developing crack using a 1/8" (Plexi) drill bit. Then I inserted a 1/8" rod stock into the hole with solvent. I thought it would be nice to fill the stop drill hole to impress my instructor. The next day I found those 1,000 points of light from the swollen rod stock. Learned a valuable lesson. Know your chemistry. Read the plexi. Use smaller rod stock. Try a sample. Like all composite work. Use two coupons of similar material (one of plexi the other of fiberglass) and test your chemistry before investing the final product to production. Your recommendation of Dave Saylor's work is wise advise. Hope others learn by your efforts. Remember to work with warm not cold Plexi. Removal of scratches or keeping a polished final finish is another subject, for later. John Cox 40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 10:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) I put in a bunch of work perfecting my windshield's fit and finish including 220 sanding the edges to perfection. Today with the assistance of my friend Jae who is also building an RV10 we did the install with Weld-on. Having heard the stories about cracks and crazing I took a supreme amount of caution to not over-clamp the plastic. I USED ONLY ENOUGH PRESSURE TO HOLD THE PLASTIC DWN. We used 6 clamps - 3 on each side with quite light pressure. When the clamps were removed, I was appalled to see 6 sets of crazed patterns emanating from the site where the clamps were. I am still dumbfounded, but it is obvious that even the slightest clamping force causes the cracks. I would strongly urge against Weld-on. I had some crazing before on a rear window, but thought that it might have been my fault. WRONG As far as I can see - ANY CLAMPING WITH WELD ON IS TOO MUCH CLAMPING. Dave Saylor has another system. I urge you to look it up and use it. This Weld-On stuff does something to the plastic and screws it up, Appreciate any other comments on Crack-on adhesive -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9428#209428 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Rodger, I built a shelf that I mounted the GADAHRS on and put it just above the right brake pedal on the passengers side, using the bolts for the brake pedals to secure the shelf. However I didn't use the SV-10 wiring loom. Wayne Edgerton N602WT flying From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk> Subject: GADAHRS placement and the SV-10 I'm in the process of trying to work out where the Pinpoint GADAHRS should be placed. I would be grateful to anyone who has successfully installed their Cheltons using the SV-10 supplied wiring loom could share where they exactly placed their Pinpoint? The instructions supplied by D2A (remember them - some of us would rather forget?) assumed that the Pinpoint went in the area forward of the instrument panel. Looking forward to hearing from all the sages out there and wondering why neither Deems D nor Ron M are flying yet, Rodger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 20, 2008
I AM GETTING READY TO DO THE FRONT WINDSCREEN AND SOMEONE MENTIONED USING H YSOL=2C WHAT WAS THE HYSOL #? THANKS=2C JOHN GONZALEZ> Subject: RV10-List: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)> Fro m: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Date: Sun=2C 19 Oct 2008 22:00:44 -0700> To: rv10- Pacbell.net>> > I put in a bunch of work perfecting my windshield's fit and finish including 220 sanding the edges to perfection. > > Today with the a ssistance of my friend Jae who is also building an RV10 we did the install with Weld-on. Having heard the stories about cracks and crazing I took a su preme amount of caution to not over-clamp the plastic.> I USED ONLY ENOUGH PRESSURE TO HOLD THE PLASTIC DWN.> > We used 6 clamps - 3 on each side with quite light pressure. When the clamps were removed=2C I was appalled to se e 6 sets of crazed patterns emanating from the site where the clamps were. I am still dumbfounded=2C but it is obvious that even the slightest clampin g force causes the cracks.> I would strongly urge against Weld-on. I had so me crazing before on a rear window=2C but thought that it might have been m y fault. WRONG> > As far as I can see - ANY CLAMPING WITH WELD ON IS TOO MU CH CLAMPING.> > Dave Saylor has another system. I urge you to look it up an d use it.> > This Weld-On stuff does something to the plastic and screws it up=2C> > Appreciate any other comments on Crack-on adhesive> > --------> O SH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "=3B09> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopi ========================> _ ========================> _ ================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: windscreen crazing
Date: Oct 20, 2008
I suggest you check with Phoenix Composites of Mesa AZ. They had done hundreds of windscreens using hysol/epoxy also vinyl ester. We used west system epoxy and aluminum finger clamps without problems. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Van's strobe bracket
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Has anyone used the Van's strobe bracket with the Creative Air=2C Avi Flash Strobe power supply. Is the hole pattern the same or will i need to make a plate that interfaces the two. Any reason to use the Whelan power supply over the Avi Flash other than the fit...the Avi Flash is $120 less $$$$. Thanks=2C JOhn Gonzalez ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Van's strobe bracket
Date: Oct 20, 2008
I bought one of these. It mounted to the van's strobe bracket w/o modification. I'm not flying yet nor have I tested the unit. http://www.strobesnmore.com/nova-x-pak-strobe-power-supplies.html By the same argument of price I'm wondering why one would use the creative air supply either? It's nearly $300 where the Nova supplies are usually half that. There are even cheaper units available. sub $100 that would probably work fine. -Ben John Gonzalez wrote: Has anyone used the Van's strobe bracket with the Creative Air, Avi Flash Strobe power supply. Is the hole pattern the same or will i need to make a plate that interfaces the two. Any reason to use the Whelan power supply over the Avi Flash other than the fit...the Avi Flash is $120 less $$$$. Thanks, JOhn Gonzalez ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Van's strobe bracket
I used the Van's bracket with the Avi Flash Strobe. I don't recall having to do anything other than screw it on. No plate requiired. In retrospect, I would have mounted it as far forward in that bay as possible to give maximum distance from the projected mounting of my GRT Magnetometer - but it's ok centered in the bay too. John Gonzalez wrote: > Has anyone used the Van's strobe bracket with the Creative Air, Avi > Flash Strobe power supply. Is the hole pattern the same or will i need > to make a plate that interfaces the two. > > Any reason to use the Whelan power supply over the Avi Flash other > than the fit...the Avi Flash is $120 less $$$$. > > Thanks, > > JOhn Gonzalez > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Van's strobe bracket
Date: Oct 20, 2008
The holes are the same, you just need to install nut plates which I believe are included with the bracket. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 3:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's strobe bracket Has anyone used the Van's strobe bracket with the Creative Air, Avi Flash Strobe power supply. Is the hole pattern the same or will i need to make a plate that interfaces the two. Any reason to use the Whelan power supply over the Avi Flash other than the fit...the Avi Flash is $120 less $$$$. Thanks, JOhn Gonzalez ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: ADB-S Navworx
Date: Oct 20, 2008
Anybody heard what EFISes will display this data. http://www.navworx.com/press-releases.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2008
I think the Hysol number was 4360, but I would suggest you search the archives. Turned out that Hysol did not work well for at least one builder. I think it was Rob Hickman that had the problems. I was going to use Hysol, but changed back to Weld-On when I heard about poor adhesion issues. No problems with the Weld-On. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9612#209612 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business
From: "andrewleopold" <andrewleopold(at)robran.com.au>
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Thanks Mike for spreading the news about the Gretz pitots being available once more. Its taken a little longer than we would have liked, but finally we have the product available to ship. I think Warren Gretz's has done a great job on the design and it's been well worth the wait. You are right, email is not secure, and it's for this reason we have a PayPal shopping cart available on our website. PayPal is about as secure as you can get, with credit card details being transfered on their secure site between the customer and PayPal only. Thanks again. Andrew Leopold Angus Aviation Pty Ltd Level 1, 129 Greenhill Road Unley 5061, South Australia Tel 011 61 8 83571842 Fax 011 61 8 83571899 andrew(at)angusaviation.com www.angusaviation.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9618#209618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Just a bit of info on the subject of alternatives to Weld-on, I had planned on using Scotch Weld 2216 which was recommend to me by a 3M rep at OSH. I bought a small amount and did some experimenting with it recently on a scrap of window and canopy. After sanding and prepping both parts properly, the bond did not hold up as I would have hoped. I put one part in a vice and pulled as to apply peal pressure to the bond. After a week of curing at around 70 deg, the bond popped apart rather easily. I performed this test several times and the bond always failed on the lexan side, releasing almost completely with very little trace of epoxy left on the window scrap. I now plan to use Weld-on but have concerns about crazing. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 11:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) > > I think the Hysol number was 4360, but I would suggest you search the > archives. Turned out that Hysol did not work well for at least one > builder. I think it was Rob Hickman that had the problems. I was going to > use Hysol, but changed back to Weld-On when I heard about poor adhesion > issues. No problems with the Weld-On. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9612#209612 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
IMHO Vans has not thought out the design of the window install very well. Other designs capture the window in between two lips of fiberglass. Then you don't need to worry about how good the adhesion of the acrylic is. Acrylic is very susceptible to chemical crazing. Thus you can avoid it by capturing it between fiberglass and not worrying about the bond. The method has been described here several times and Glasair, Glastar, Lancair all use this method. Some have the capture on the inside and some on the outside. Gary 40274 Flying -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 8:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) Just a bit of info on the subject of alternatives to Weld-on, I had planned on using Scotch Weld 2216 which was recommend to me by a 3M rep at OSH. I bought a small amount and did some experimenting with it recently on a scrap of window and canopy. After sanding and prepping both parts properly, the bond did not hold up as I would have hoped. I put one part in a vice and pulled as to apply peal pressure to the bond. After a week of curing at around 70 deg, the bond popped apart rather easily. I performed this test several times and the bond always failed on the lexan side, releasing almost completely with very little trace of epoxy left on the window scrap. I now plan to use Weld-on but have concerns about crazing. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 11:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) > > I think the Hysol number was 4360, but I would suggest you search the > archives. Turned out that Hysol did not work well for at least one > builder. I think it was Rob Hickman that had the problems. I was going to > use Hysol, but changed back to Weld-On when I heard about poor adhesion > issues. No problems with the Weld-On. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9612#209612 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Dave, Be careful throwing around trade names. If you went to the 3M guys and said you wanted to bond Lexan and fiberglass you would be wrong which could have led to your problem. Lexan is polycarbonate which is not what we have. We have acrylic windows which also goes by the trade name Plexiglass. Might not have made a difference but I have no idea. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 7:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) Just a bit of info on the subject of alternatives to Weld-on, I had planned on using Scotch Weld 2216 which was recommend to me by a 3M rep at OSH. I bought a small amount and did some experimenting with it recently on a scrap of window and canopy. After sanding and prepping both parts properly, the bond did not hold up as I would have hoped. I put one part in a vice and pulled as to apply peal pressure to the bond. After a week of curing at around 70 deg, the bond popped apart rather easily. I performed this test several times and the bond always failed on the lexan side, releasing almost completely with very little trace of epoxy left on the window scrap. I now plan to use Weld-on but have concerns about crazing. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: AFS Magnometer mounting.
Date: Oct 21, 2008
I made a bracket like the one someone posted a picture of in a prior email so that it mounts on the top portion of the bulhead aft of the battery comp artment. After looking at the mounting directions in the manual=2C I am perplexed th at AFS does not make a bracket which the magnometer it mounted on to allow fine tuning the direction of mounting the unit. A leveller to accounts for pitch=2C role and yaw. Guess I will have to fabricate a mounting plate that does this with fine tuning aluminum screws. Now using a laser leveller ins ide the plane from the EFIs screen to the magnometer=2C how will I manage t hat? Am I making this more complicated than it really is???????????????????????? ?????????????/ JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Thank You from across the pond. John Cox RV-10 Aurora, OR USA Be sure and archive the website! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of andrewleopold Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 3:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business Thanks Mike for spreading the news about the Gretz pitots being available once more. Its taken a little longer than we would have liked, but finally we have the product available to ship. I think Warren Gretz's has done a great job on the design and it's been well worth the wait. You are right, email is not secure, and it's for this reason we have a PayPal shopping cart available on our website. PayPal is about as secure as you can get, with credit card details being transfered on their secure site between the customer and PayPal only. Thanks again. Andrew Leopold Angus Aviation Pty Ltd Level 1, 129 Greenhill Road Unley 5061, South Australia Tel 011 61 8 83571842 Fax 011 61 8 83571899 andrew(at)angusaviation.com www.angusaviation.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9618#209618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AFS Magnometer mounting.
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2008
indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com wrote: > Am I making this more complicated than it really is When you build and mount the bracket, that is when you start with the level. Shims should work to fine tune it. This is not unique to AFS. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9687#209687 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
I tried the following from Lancair: 9360 Hysol is a two-component toughened paste adhesive, which combines high peel strength at room temperature with tensile lap shear strength at 225 =B0F to 250=B0F (107=B0C to 121=B0C). My front windshield is still in with this along with two layers of fiberglass over the top. I installed the side windows with WeldOn 10 and h ad absolutely no problems with it. In all the testing I did after the wind ows fell out the first time showed that the Hysol does not make a very strong bond a nd the WeldOn does. Before you do anything you should test your procedures and the product on a test piece. Rob Hickman RV-10 N402RH (Stuck in Cylinder recall Hell) **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)AOL.COM
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: ADB-S Navworx
In a message dated 10/21/2008 9:50:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: Hey Rob, is this in your pipeline to support in the AFS EFIS products? We believe that the traffic will already work from it with our system. We should have it verified in the next couple of weeks. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
What bonding agent failed on the windows the first time? Which windows fail ed? I will be putting fiberglass over the edges of all windows=2C but the front windscreen will need more than two layers to hold it in place if the under lying bond fails. John G. From: RobHickman(at)aol.comDate: Tue=2C 21 Oct 2008 14:28:19 -0400Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)To: rv10-list@matronics. com I tried the following from Lancair: 9360 Hysol is a two-component toughened paste adhesive=2C which combines hi gh peel strength at room temperature with tensile lap shear strength at 225 =B0F to 250=B0F (107=B0C to 121=B0C). My front windshield is still in with this along with two layers of fibergla ss over the top. I installed the side windows with WeldOn 10 and had absol utely no problems with it. In all the testing I did after the windows fe ll out the first time showed that the Hysol does not make a very strong bon d and the WeldOn does. Before you do anything you should test your procedures and the product on a test piece. Rob Hickman RV-10 N402RH (Stuck in Cylinder recall Hell) New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining=2C Mo vies=2C Events=2C News & more. Try it out! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: AFS Magnometer mounting.
In a message dated 10/21/2008 9:05:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com writes: Am I making this more complicated than it really is?????????????????????????????????????/ Yes, Take a look at the following picture from my RV-10 _http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg_ (http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg) It took less than an hour to make and install and it works perfectly. I used brass screws and nuts. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Match: #6 Message: #17373 From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Date: Jun 30, 2008 Subject: _Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install_ (http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=33682832?KEYS=hysol_&_rob_hickman?LISTNAME=RV10 ?HITNUMBER=6?SERIAL=1333066866?SHOWBUTTONS=NO) Match: #10 Message: #17334 From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Date: Jun 27, 2008 Subject: _Hysol 9360 Window install update_ (http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=33625865?KEYS=hysol_&_rob_hickman?LISTNAME=RV10? HITNUMBER=10?SERIAL=1333066866?SHOWBUTTONS=NO) Read these in the archives. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
It appears that the issue here is about clamping force/compression distribu tion and both products have their drawbacks but that Hysol is not being use d in the same way on the 10 as on the Lancairs. Better distribute the force with the Weld on. Again=2C I had no problems on the rear windows=2C but they didn't need to bend to get them to fit. John G. From: RobHickman(at)aol.comDate: Tue=2C 21 Oct 2008 16:41:55 -0400Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)To: rv10-list@matronics. com Match: #6 Message: #17373 From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Date: Jun 30=2C 2008 Subject: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install Match: #10 Message: #17334 From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Date: Jun 27=2C 2008 Subject: Hysol 9360 Window install update Read these in the archives. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining=2C Mo vies=2C Events=2C News & m2/aol?redir=http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=e mlcntnew00000002">Try it out! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
The Lancair window flange is also about 2" wide and the windows are installed from the inside of the plane. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
After the last post about the relatively light clamping pressure and the appearance of cracks, leads me to believe that perhaps the weld on product may create some exothermic heat during cure. Isn't it possible that the clamps may not be cracking the plexi from pressure but from the concentration of heat. or the lack of even temps during cure? Now I don't have any experience with weld on adhesive, but I'd be curious to here if anyone thinks this is possible. Steve DiNieri iflyrv10.com 40208 From: John Gonzalez Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) It appears that the issue here is about clamping force/compression distribution and both products have their drawbacks but that Hysol is not being used in the same way on the 10 as on the Lancairs. Better distribute the force with the Weld on. Again, I had no problems on the rear windows, but they didn't need to bend to get them to fit. John G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: AFS Magnometer mounting.
Maybe a little more complicated than necessary. I have a AFS 3500 unit. I went to the local airplane supply store ( home Depot) got two 3/4 x 1/8 aluminum angles. I then bolted them to the longerons in the bay aft of the battery compartment. Spaced them apart enough to hold the AFS unit. I then screwed the unit onto the rails with brass screws and locknuts. You now are automatically aligned side to side and for and aft. I have had no problems with the calibration or readings on the AFS. Also, I did put some clear vinyl hose on the rear seat belts to keep them from rubbing on the aluminum angles. Used some heat shrink to keep the tubes from creeping. I made up a shelf to put on the bulkhead, but took it off when I realized how hard it will be to adjust the shelf with the top skin on and crawling around in the back. I was also a little concerned about the autopilot motor and the Whelen strobes. I have had not seen any problems with the magnetometer readings or alignment or stability with my set up. Shoot me an email if I can be of further help. Dr. Fred. 40515 35 1/2 hrs. (why am I sitting here? I should be flying!) John Gonzalez wrote: > I made a bracket like the one someone posted a picture of in a prior > email so that it mounts on the top portion of the bulhead aft of the > battery compartment. > > After looking at the mounting directions in the manual, I am perplexed > that AFS does not make a bracket which the magnometer it mounted on to > allow fine tuning the direction of mounting the unit. A leveller to > accounts for pitch, role and yaw. Guess I will have to fabricate a > mounting plate that does this with fine tuning aluminum screws. Now > using a laser leveller inside the plane from the EFIs screen to the > magnometer, how will I manage that? > > Am I making this more complicated than it really > is?????????????????????????????????????/ > > JOhn G. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing)
Date: Oct 21, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
To measure exothermic, just mix a batch in a cup and then use an IR pistol thermometer from Harbor Freight to measure any temperature rise over the pot life. Temperatures beyond the product range can create adverse results. The IR gun will be invaluable at tracking sparkplug fowling, hot axle bearings and when not to insert your arm into the lower cowl near the exhaust stacks which have not cooled enough. John C. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) After the last post about the relatively light clamping pressure and the appearance of cracks, leads me to believe that perhaps the weld on product may create some exothermic heat during cure. Isn't it possible that the clamps may not be cracking the plexi from pressure but from the concentration of heat. or the lack of even temps during cure? Now I don't have any experience with weld on adhesive, but I'd be curious to here if anyone thinks this is possible. Steve DiNieri iflyrv10.com 40208 From: John Gonzalez <mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Windows and Weld-on angst (Crazing) It appears that the issue here is about clamping force/compression distribution and both products have their drawbacks but that Hysol is not being used in the same way on the 10 as on the Lancairs. Better distribute the force with the Weld on. Again, I had no problems on the rear windows, but they didn't need to bend to get them to fit. John G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1"
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
Does anyone have a source or suggestion for a reduction flange so I can reduce the size of heater hose tubing running in the tunnel? I'd like to reduce to 1" from standard 2", especially for rear passenger seating. Thanks, Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9828#209828 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts
Date: Oct 22, 2008
Van's did some study/engineering/testing when they needed a material to adhere plexi to fiberglass. They found that "Weld-on 10" did the job. They got the same crazing that many of us are getting and after several flying hours (1100?) the small cracks have NOT migrated from the edges of the material into the visible area. I suspect that after the paint is on and the masking is removed, we won't be able to see any defects on the edges of our windows. Paul Hahn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
Date: Oct 22, 2008
I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or plating of steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ? What are builders choosing to do and why? Dave Emond ZU- RVD 160 Hours flying time. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
d_emond(at)mweb.co.za wrote: > I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or plating of > steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ? Also Powder coated? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9896#209896 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
Edmond: I had mine chromed. They look good. Cost a little bit more. Only thing I would do (next time) is to step up to a AN4 bolt and use a reamer to do the hole. 35 hrs and my steps are getting loose. I think Deems was one of the first to suggest putting in a larger bolt. I think it is part due to the size of the bolt and the difficulty in getting a round hole with a normal drill bit. I will go back into the floor in the near future and put in access plates and fix the problem. Another reason to do the weight loss thing. Fred Williams 40515. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
Date: Oct 22, 2008
... and while you're at it... what are people doing to protect the inside of the step from corrosion... if anything? Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Oct 22, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Emond wrote: > > I would be interested to hear the pro's and cons for painting or > plating of steps and door hinges in particular on RV 10 builds ? > > What are builders choosing to do and why? > > > Dave Emond > ZU- RVD > 160 Hours flying time. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
I sure hope that you are correct. I cannot bear the thought or the cost of grinding the window out and redoing it............ -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9951#209951 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
I FITTED my steps in a long time ago. I strongly urge builders to: 1. Nut plate the entire rear baggage / back seat area - OR 2. Put an inspection panel in above the steps - to repair or replace the steps and check for corrosion on an ongoing basis I put the inspection plate in above the step bolts. This allows you to clean corrosion in the step area, upsize the step bolt as needed, inspect the area for corrosion, add an additional bolt, and remove the step (during the build) so that you do not have sore shins for the next year. As a 1200 hr pilot my observation is that the RV10 has (to my view) three major flaws. 1. An un-inspectable rear and front sub-floor area 2. permanently glued and secured windows and 3. badly molded vertical opening doors. ------ At least you can cure flaw #1 - do it...... -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9954#209954 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1000864_968.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
Oh yea - while you are at it - run some flex conduit for future wiring and put a nylon line or tent cord in the conduit -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9955#209955 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts
Date: Oct 22, 2008
One way to approach this is to distribute the force of the spring clamps by first putting down strips of 3/32 lite ply, the stuff you find in aircraft modelling stores. Make the strips 18 to 24 inches long and use three clamps over that area. JOhn G. ---------------------------------------- > Subject: RV10-List: Re: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 20:18:41 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I sure hope that you are correct. I cannot bear the thought or the cost of grinding the window out and redoing it............ > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9951#209951 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts
Date: Oct 22, 2008
To clearify, I am talking about using the plywood strips on the front windscreen, not the side windows. On those I used pieces of popsicle sticks and clecoes and had not crazing issues. JOhn G. ---------------------------------------- > Subject: RV10-List: Re: don't lose sight of these basic window weld-on facts > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 20:18:41 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I sure hope that you are correct. I cannot bear the thought or the cost of grinding the window out and redoing it............ > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9951#209951 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "bwestfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2008
I second or third or nth the access cover (keeps you from having to lose weight!) Mike are you aware that your access cover is going to be under the side panel? The side panel is supposed to be pop riveted through the floor which will put a rivet or two right through your access panel. I attached some pics of my install. I was pretty careful to make it accessible after the side panel is installed. A side effect of that though is the bolt cannot be dropped in from the top. You cannot tell from my pictures but I removed the bolt and redrilled it horizontally. This will allow me to remove/insert with my access plate slightly askew like it is. -Ben Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9958#209958 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim2367_273.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1000038_264.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1000037_188.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 23, 2008
I had mine chromed - cost $150 plus sales tax for $159. Took 4 weeks but they look great. As far as the inside of the steps, I took a piece of large wood dowel used for closet hangers and stapled some coarse sandpaper to it with enough wraps to make it snug. Let it overlap a little to get the bottom of the tube. Got it to shine, cleaned with acetone, masking tape over the holes, then enough Zinc Oxide to paint a small house. The chrome guy had removed all the factory primer and the outside of the unchromed shaft was pretty ugly with tape marks and stuff. Lots of sandpaper and scotchbrite later I got them looking like the chromed part. Will either prime them or coat with Boeshield T-9. Still not sure what to do about the AN3 bolt wobbling over time. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9986#209986 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ADS-B Navworx
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 23, 2008
Quick question for those who have used ADS-B. It uses a transponder/DME type antenna. Is the existing transponder antenna all you need or does it require a separate dedicated antenna? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9987#209987 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Step access
Date: Oct 23, 2008
I made my side panels removable on both sides. Replaced pop rivets with nutplates. That allowed access on the right for electrical runs and on the left for my aux tank plumbing. With the side panels removed there is a slot in the floors exposed thru which I can access the step bolts, and use a modified wrench to reach the bottom of the step tube , to access the nuts. Chris Hukill getting ready to fit cabin top ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1"
Date: Oct 23, 2008
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey Tom - I needed to reduce the heater tube diameter for my tunnel and I discovered that just reducing it from 2" to 1.5" gained me the necessary clearance for my application. If you discover that in fact 1.5" would be sufficient, take a look here: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ They have a pretty wide working temp range, and should work nicely for this application. For me, I got the 2" to 1.5" reducer, and used a piece of scrap tubing from the push pull controls (happily exactly 1.5" diameter) to connect the reducer. I also got one to re-largify back to 2" for the connection to the outlet at the pax feet. the 1.5" diameter tubing fits nicely between the spar and the tunnel cover. the only thing is that you should angle the aluminum T connector at the pax vent to point a bit forward, as the reducer pointed straight up would contact the tunnel cover. I also trimmed the reducer a bit to shorten it. cj -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of tomhanaway Sent: Wed 10/22/2008 7:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" Does anyone have a source or suggestion for a reduction flange so I can reduce the size of heater hose tubing running in the tunnel? I'd like to reduce to 1" from standard 2", especially for rear passenger seating. Thanks, Tom Hanaway Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9828#209828 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Oct 23, 2008
Decided to Boeshield T-9 the step shafts. Access through the lightening holes in the future for additional inspection/anticorrosion. Found the perfect solution for step wobble - an AN173-20 bolt. It's a "close tolerance" bolt that won't fit an AN3 hole without a little persuasion. I just spun a bit in my fingers until the AN173 decided to go through. Absolutely NO movement. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210060#210060 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Step access
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 23, 2008
Smart move. You will thank yourself years from now for putting in the extra effort. :D -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210064#210064 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ADS-B Navworx
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2008
johngoodman wrote: > Quick question for those who have used ADS-B. It uses a transponder/DME type antenna. Is the existing transponder antenna all you need or does it require a separate dedicated antenna? > John John, For the GDL-90, you can use the same antenna as your transponder, the GDL-90 has options to deconflict with the transponder signal. However, GDL requires two antenna's, one on the top and bottom for full spherical coverage, so you'll still need to add one more. It also requires a separate gps antenna. aj Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210066#210066 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1"
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 24, 2008
CJ, Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect. One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2". I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so. Thanks again, Tom Hanaway Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy?
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 24, 2008
OK, I've spent way too much time searching for this answer. What do you think of glassing over the heads of the seatbelt countersunk screws in the canopy? Are others making this permanent? Will it crack over time? Just seal the screw and paint the screw head? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210093#210093 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate
John ; Sounds like a good idea. AN173 bolt. Let us know how tight it is after climbing in and out of the airplane the first couple months. My concern is that there just isn't enough mass on the outer tube to keep it from moving with the 200 + "foot lbs" that are placed on the step each time. If I had the flange out of the plane and not riveted in, I'd consider welding a 3/8 inch tab to get more beef for the the close tolerance bolt. Might even consider a sleeve over the tube and then welding it to the mount before drilling. Just a thought. Dr Fred. Should get that last 1 1/2 hrs done today and get her signed off. Let's go somewhere! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2008
All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. Lots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Date: Oct 24, 2008
What does your rig look like? I walked that line this morning but how will I distinguish yours? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. Lots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2008
I've got a "RV10 NEST" banner hanging from a checkerboard awning. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210148#210148 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: firewall and electrical
Date: Oct 24, 2008
I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? Thanks JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: firewall and electrical
John, I certainly can't advise you here but I'll tell you a little of what I've done... I used the Van's wiring kit plans as a reference for some of the fat wire routing (thanks Tim). I have a Z14 with 2 batteries and 2 alts. I ran a 2 AWG to the starter contactor on the firewall. The Van's wiring kit plan has a firewall hole plotted and the Van's starter contactor was already to mount on the QB firewall in just the right spot. My plan is run 8 AWG from the main Alt to the starter contactor, and then from there back to the panel where it will terminate at a fuse block. I have a current limiter to protect that circuit. I ran another 8 AWG from the other battery forward. I'm not sure whether it will terminate at a fuse block or whether I should take it forward thru the firewall to join the secondary Alt's 8AWG line. Then back to the fuse block (advice here very welcome). This secondary alt line will also be protected with a current limiter and that may be the best place to terminate the 2nd battery's line. Both batteries are grounded at the battery box. And an 8 AWG ground wire is run to the firewall where it terminates at a B&C forest of tabs with tabs on both sides of the firewall. And that's my basic power distribution scheme. Some of it is 'done' and most still in process. I'm doing my own panel so I get to figure out all of the power connections. My plan after drinking deeply of Bob's stuff is to fuse most of it with a very limited number of pull-able breakers. The forest of tabs will be the single common ground source for everything in the panel. Hope some of that helps. Bill "making holes in Stein's panel" Watson John Gonzalez wrote: > > > I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? > > Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) > > Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? > > Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? > > Thanks > > JOhn G. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2008
Subject: firewall and electrical
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
>four monster cables ??????????? Coincidentally, I just added some electrical pictures. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/indexEL1.html William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? > > Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) > > Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? > > Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? > > Thanks > > JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 24, 2008
Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1"
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Oct 25, 2008
I've run air conditioner lines within the tunnel. Reducing the size of the heater hose gives me more room, a cleaner install and avoids contact (and potential heat transfer) between the coolant hose and the heater hose. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210216#210216 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy?
David McNeill wrote: > > Just be prepared to repair the canopy surface should you ever decide to > change/repair your belt system. > I'm not there yet (but getting close) so explain in detail, if you will, why bonding that screw into the cabin top keeps you from unbolting the harness from the inside. If it's the fact that the screw wants to turn ...... I think you could just take a small chisel and smack some 'indents' around the circumference of the screw head. Help me understand here. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1"
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Oct 25, 2008
Tim, I wanted to be able to mix the cold with hot air also. This is what I came up with. I also have details on my web site page. http://www.nwacaptain.com/heatcool.html Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210236#210236 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/heat_1471_745.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Fix for loose steps
Date: Oct 25, 2008
There was some talk last week about wiggly steps. Although we are not flying yet I believe the follwoing fix for this is going to work. I turned a solid aluminum bushing that is pressed inside the step tube. This bushing gives the step bolt something to clamp against. The following link to our web site has pictures and brief write up on this bushing, GO TO Bottom of this page for details. http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10%20construction%20project.htm Bob Newman 40176 TCW Technologies, LLC. www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevating the fuse to put it up on it's gear
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 25, 2008
How high must the fuselage be elevated to put the gear on? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210262#210262 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: oil filter adapter
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Oct 25, 2008
Just mounting the engine. The used IO540 had a remote filter mount adapter, does any one have a standard adapter I could buy or trade for? Eric Gohr egohr1atcoxdotnet -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210279#210279 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
Subject: oil filter adapter
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Mattituck has the standard adapter for $239 and the 90 degree adapter for $282 + $45 for the spacer required with the 90 degree adapter. http://mattituck.com/oil%20filter%20adapter%20add.pdf William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Just mounting the engine. The used IO540 had a remote filter mount adapter, does any one have a standard adapter I could buy or trade for? > > Eric Gohr > egohr1atcoxdotnet > > -------- > eric gohr > EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210279#210279 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Many thanks to Myron for putting on a great lunch and gathering of RV10 builders. Weather was great, 4 flying RV10s that I counted were present. On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 1:16 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > I've got a "RV10 NEST" banner hanging from a checkerboard awning. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210148#210148 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 25, 2008
Thanks to all who participated. The group is greater than the sum of its parts. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210301#210301 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10nest_184.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Let me add a strong second. Third, or ?????? to what Kelly said. Myron put on a GREAT spread, and any time I can get to hang out with other -10 builders is good time, Those of you who haven't savored Myrons Carne Asada, haven't lived !!!!!!!!!! Thanks Deems Getting closer ! Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Many thanks to Myron for putting on a great lunch and gathering of > RV10 builders. Weather was great, 4 flying RV10s that I counted were > present. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Myron, your hospitality was as great as the airline you fly for. The shelter from the Arizona sun today and the chance to sit down with friends on your chairs, under that sunshade, while you did the hard work on the Barby- priceless. Thanks - back to work tomorrow. John Cox Aurora,OR (sneaking an early Copperstate sunbreak) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of woxofswa Sent: Sat 10/25/2008 7:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest Thanks to all who participated. The group is greater than the sum of its parts. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210301#210301 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10nest_184.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2008
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Myron, great job and it was great to meet you.- Thanks for providing a pl ace to get together.- Met some really nice people and I'm sure I'll see t hem all again.- Thanks again. Don McDonald --- On Fri, 10/24/08, woxofswa wrote: From: woxofswa <woxof(at)aol.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 11:26 AM All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. L ots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Hear, hear! Truly great, Myron. Thank you again John Ackerman On Oct 25, 2008, at 10:22 PM, Don McDonald wrote: > Myron, great job and it was great to meet you. Thanks for providing > a place to get together. Met some really nice people and I'm sure > I'll see them all again. Thanks again. > Don McDonald > > --- On Fri, 10/24/08, woxofswa wrote: > From: woxofswa <woxof(at)aol.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 11:26 AM > > > All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) > noonish. Lots > of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 > > > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Difficult to take pictures when you have drink in one hand and food in the other. 8-) On Sun, Oct 26, 2008 at 9:24 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > So this talented group of people can build an airplane from parts but can't > post Copperstate Fly In photos on the internet??? > > > Robin > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
Date: Oct 26, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
We can and will. We were just all enjoying the Arizona sunshine. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 1:26 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest Difficult to take pictures when you have drink in one hand and food in the other. 8-) On Sun, Oct 26, 2008 at 9:24 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > So this talented group of people can build an airplane from parts but can't > post Copperstate Fly In photos on the internet??? > > > Robin > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Subject: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Guess I should check spelling before sending! Sorry about that I finally get around to getting an official weight and balance for my airplane. But it has lead to a few questions. (1) I find in surprising that vans RV-10 sample WB pdf does not have arms for the nose wheel and the mains. Do they expect those to be different from one builder to another? I could not find any spreadsheets from other builders showing what their moment arms were. Yes I know I am supposed to measure this but I want to compare my results to some others. My nose wheel arm ended up being 50.125" forward of the leading edge (99.440 based on Vans numbers) which makes my nose wheel arm 49.315. My mains are back 24" from the wing LE making my mains arm 123.440". What did others measure? (2) So now I weigh the airplane (using certified scales) and I find the empty CG way forward (102.46"). I expected the forward CG but not quite that much. Even with me as the sole occupant and half fuel, I need to have 100 lbs in the baggage area just to get the CG back to the most forward allowable (107.84"). Now I played with the numbers and it does allow one to really load up the airplane for maximum capabilities, but wow I didn't expect to have to load up the baggage area on the first flights. Did others find the same conditions? If one were to take off on the first flight and not check the CG, it would make for an interesting landing! Looks like carrying passengers on the flights is not only good but maybe even required unless I want to carry around some extra weight (couple of 5 gallon water containers). Very interesting! Jim Combs N312F, 40192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Subject: Wegith and Balance
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
I finally get around to getting an official weight and balance for my airplane. But it has lead to a few questions. (1) I find in surprising that vans RV-10 sample WB pdf does not have arms for the nose wheel and the mains. Do they expect those to be different from one builder to another? I could not find any spreadsheets from other builders showing what their moment arms were. Yes I know I am supposed to measure this but I want to compare my results to some others. My Nose wheel arm ended up being 50.125" forward of the leading edge (99.440 based on Vans numbers) which makes my nose wheel arm 49.315. My mains are back 24" from the wing LE making my mains arm 123.440". What did others measure? (2) So now I weigh the airplane (using certified scales) and I find the empty CG way forward (102.46"). I expected the forward CG but not quite that much. Even with me as the sole occupant and half fuel, I need to have 100 lbs in the baggage area just to get the CG back to the most forward allowable (107.84"). Now I played with the numbers and it does allow one to really load up the airplane for maximum capabilities, but wow I didn't expect to have to load up the baggage area on the first flights. Did others find the same conditions? If one were to take off on the first flight and not check the CG, it woudl make for an interesting landing! Looks like carrying passengers on the flights is not only good but maybe even required unless I want to carry around some extra weight (couple of 5 gallon water containers). Very interesting! Jim Combs N312F, 40192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Jim, That empty CG sound WAY forward! Here's the link to a DB with data from several RV-10 W&B (including mine). What were your individual wheel weights? BTW, the numbers that I have show the following Arms for the gear - nose: 50.44", left main: 124.31", right main: 124.44". Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210417#210417 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2008
More helpful if the link is actually in the email... http://www.rvproject.com/wab/ Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210418#210418 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Weight and Balance Questions
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Jim, is your airplane close to the same configuration as Vans? If it is, I do not see how you got it to 102.46. I will send you my WB in PM. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 5:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance Questions Guess I should check spelling before sending! Sorry about that I finally get around to getting an official weight and balance for my airplane. But it has lead to a few questions. (1) I find in surprising that vans RV-10 sample WB pdf does not have arms for the nose wheel and the mains. Do they expect those to be different from one builder to another? I could not find any spreadsheets from other builders showing what their moment arms were. Yes I know I am supposed to measure this but I want to compare my results to some others. My nose wheel arm ended up being 50.125" forward of the leading edge (99.440 based on Vans numbers) which makes my nose wheel arm 49.315. My mains are back 24" from the wing LE making my mains arm 123.440". What did others measure? (2) So now I weigh the airplane (using certified scales) and I find the empty CG way forward (102.46"). I expected the forward CG but not quite that much. Even with me as the sole occupant and half fuel, I need to have 100 lbs in the baggage area just to get the CG back to the most forward allowable (107.84"). Now I played with the numbers and it does allow one to really load up the airplane for maximum capabilities, but wow I didn't expect to have to load up the baggage area on the first flights. Did others find the same conditions? If one were to take off on the first flight and not check the CG, it would make for an interesting landing! Looks like carrying passengers on the flights is not only good but maybe even required unless I want to carry around some extra weight (couple of 5 gallon water containers). Very interesting! Jim Combs N312F, 40192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
408 on the nose wheel and 547 on the mains. That puts us at an empty weight of 1502 lbs. These differ quite a bit from some of the other spreadsheets I have received from other builders. I have not painted the airplane and the interior is basically untouched. Plans are to do the interior (that be carpeting and decorating stuff) after flying a few hours. Both of these would add significant weight aft of the CG. Also we are using a Hartzel 2 blade prop (Not the blended airfoil) on a IO-540-C4B5 (Not new) with the original Lycoming starter. Maybe with all these affects added together, we have a really heavy front end. I have access to another set of scales and may re-weigh just to make sure of the numbers. Thanks, Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Rene and Bob, Thanks, for the info. I now have some numbers to compare to. My moment arms match up with yours very well. The weights however do appear to indicate a pretty nose heavy airplane. I will get a second set of scales and do it all again just to confirm or deny the numbers. The scales I used were just recently certified, so I believe they should be accurate. Maybe we will just have to go ahead and put the interior in too. Right now it's just a lot of painted metal. Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Might go without saying, but also double check the aircraft attitude when it's on the scales - should be level and that can make a huge difference! bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210428#210428 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
It was level. But I will continue the investigation! Thanks, Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
And one needs to be certain that it is flight level, however Van's defines that. On some aircraft models, taxi level is not flight level. bcondrey wrote: > > Might go without saying, but also double check the aircraft attitude when it's on the scales - should be level and that can make a huge difference! > > bob > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210428#210428 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork
Date: Oct 27, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Ball point pen with the ink above 212 degrees F. DAR approval after cool down. FAA acceptance upon receipt. "Cause it is - Experimental". I will listen for those using more than VAN's tested and approved 2700 lbs. for the Static Load to Gross Weight Testing results. Maybe the jettison Max Fuel Load for Landing back to 2700 prior to emergency touchdown? As more of the Van's fleet sustained collapsed nose gear incidents (not with the RV-10 Fleet), my attention became perked. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:24 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork Ok I have a max gross weight question. How are boilers able to change the max gross weight for there 10. I thought the published max gross is 2700lbs, but I see here they range from 2700 to 2850. How are they able to do that?? Van's RV-10 Ted French C-FXCS Lycoming IO-540 260 76" MT 3-blade Composite CS 49.58" 1557 2700 1143 60 783 Van's RV-10 Tim Olson N104CD Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.67" 1685 2700 1015 60 655 100% Complete right down to the ... Van's RV-10 Gary Specketer N204GS Lycoming IO-540 260 78" AeroComposites 2-blade Composite CS 0.06" 1699 2700 1001 60 641 Full IFR Upholstery, Dual Altena... Van's RV-10 Chuck Stuhrenberg N300WC Lycoming O-540 300 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 106.98" 1615 2900 1285 60 925 Van's RV-10 Rene Felker N423CF Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 109.22" 1698 2800 1102 60 742 Full IFR, 2 Alt, full interior Van's RV-10 Bob Condrey N442PM Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.2" 1632 2700 1068 60 708 All electric, dual batteries, du... Van's RV-10 David McNeill N46007 Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 109.13" 1630 2700 1070 60 710 Van's RV-10 Anh Vu N591VU Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 106.99" 1625 2700 1075 60 715 Datum is 99.44" forward of wing ... Van's RV-10 vic Syracuse N64VC Lycoming IO-540 310 72" MT 3-blade Composite CS 89.59" 1665 2850 1185 75 735 CG limits are aft of leading edg... Van's RV-10 Russell Daves N710RV Lycoming IO-540 260 76" MT 3-blade Composite CS 108.05" 1584 2700 1116 60 756 Van's RV-10 BARRY MARZ N789AB Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.73" 1648 2700 1052 60 692 Van's RV-10 Albert Gardner N991RV Lycoming IO-540 310 78" AeroComposites 3-blade Composite CS 110.35" 1634 2800 1166 60 806 Van's RV-10 Dave Emond ZU - RVD Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.33" 1631 2700 John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:07 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork I am assuming that your definition of "level" was with a digital level (indicating to the 0.1 degree) and not a bubble level. Just like in hand grenades and bombs. Level both fore and aft and port to starboard. The hangar doors need to be closed to wind effects as well, in a normal weight environment. John Cox - RV10 N49CX =Dreaming of Living the Dream ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork
Date: Oct 27, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
This is some good stuff! Now, can I conclude from David's post that insurance underwriters may actually accept an "Approval of Claim" rather than the more typical "Denial of Claim" when the VANs factory, a large number of builders and Dick V placed the hard gross weight at =<2700 lbs max for the RV-10 insurance pool and then the builder/claimant uses a higher arbitrary number? Can I conclude from Rene, that use of sandbags above 2700lbs is not to demonstrate the wing spars will take the static weight "In Flight" but is a rather a ground load test on the fuselage construction, the leg attachment and the wheels/tires? Can a builder disregard the 3.8 Positive and the negative G factors when submitting to DAR paperwork? At 3.8G that requires 5130 pounds of sand "Per Wing" or 10,260 GW for Wing Loading of the total Aircraft if exceeding the factory recommendation. Are the planes signed by the DAR to Normal, Utility, Aerobatic or a new category - based on specific Positive/Negative G forces? What can we do to make an RV-10 capable of legal aerobatic maneuvers? What fuel load reduction is required for a 3.8 Normal to go to Utility Flight or Aerobatic Flight? Does Maneuvering Speed change with higher Gross Weight entries into the POH? Is there more than Pen & Ink involvement? What is the Testing Practice (prior to DAR) when going "off the reservation"? No flame intended. This remains Good Stuff. John Cumin is to be commended for extracting Dan Checkoway's data. And Thanks to those honest enough to post on this important subject. Michael, I am missing your wit here. John Cox Aurora State -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:00 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork At the risk of being flamed. Adjusted g limits of my airplane based on a set of assumptions derived from the Vans number. In other words, my airplane is not rated for 3.8g at its max gross weight of 2800. Now, in reality, I will have trouble getting my airplane up to 2800 pounds. During testing, I loaded it out at 2780 putting it at the aft CG. I just could not fit any more sand bags in the front seat... :). Now, with the 2800 lbs I will not get caught being overweight during ramp check or accident investigation, but like I said, I will have trouble getting there anyway......and still staying within the aft CG. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:24 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork Ok I have a max gross weight question. How are boilers able to change the max gross weight for their 10. I thought the published max gross is 2700lbs, but I see here they range from 2700 to 2850. How are they able to do that?? Van's RV-10 Ted French C-FXCS Lycoming IO-540 260 76" MT 3-blade Composite CS 49.58" 1557 2700 1143 60 783 Van's RV-10 Tim Olson N104CD Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.67" 1685 2700 1015 60 655 100% Complete right down to the ... Van's RV-10 Gary Specketer N204GS Lycoming IO-540 260 78" AeroComposites 2-blade Composite CS 0.06" 1699 2700 1001 60 641 Full IFR Upholstery, Dual Altena... Van's RV-10 Chuck Stuhrenberg N300WC Lycoming O-540 300 72" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 106.98" 1615 2900 1285 60 925 Van's RV-10 Rene Felker N423CF Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 109.22" 1698 2800 1102 60 742 Full IFR, 2 Alt, full interior Van's RV-10 Bob Condrey N442PM Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.2" 1632 2700 1068 60 708 All electric, dual batteries, du... Van's RV-10 David McNeill N46007 Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 109.13" 1630 2700 1070 60 710 Van's RV-10 Anh Vu N591VU Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 106.99" 1625 2700 1075 60 715 Datum is 99.44" forward of wing ... Van's RV-10 vic Syracuse N64VC Lycoming IO-540 310 72" MT 3-blade Composite CS 89.59" 1665 2850 1185 75 735 CG limits are aft of leading edg... Van's RV-10 Russell Daves N710RV Lycoming IO-540 260 76" MT 3-blade Composite CS 108.05" 1584 2700 1116 60 756 Van's RV-10 BARRY MARZ N789AB Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.73" 1648 2700 1052 60 692 Van's RV-10 Albert Gardner N991RV Lycoming IO-540 310 78" AeroComposites 3-blade Composite CS 110.35" 1634 2800 1166 60 806 Van's RV-10 Dave Emond ZU - RVD Lycoming IO-540 260 80" Hartzell 2-blade Aluminum CS 108.33" 1631 2700 John G. Cumins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Subject: Holes in F1072
Date: Oct 27, 2008
The two large holes in the F 1072 Fwd fuselage bottom skin have scalloped edges. I presume they will need to be deburred smooth. I just want to make sure that this is correct. Rob Hunter Fuselage 40432 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Holes in F1072
Rob: I think what you are talking about are the gear leg holes. File the edges smooth and deburr. Fred 40515. Rob Hunter wrote: > > The two large holes in the F 1072 Fwd fuselage bottom skin have > scalloped edges. I presume they will need to be deburred smooth. I just > want to make sure that this is correct. > > Rob Hunter > Fuselage > 40432 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Weighing prior to DAR paperwork
Please note the reg cited does NOT allow any and every pilot to operate every plane at 115% of gross in Alaska. It requires specific approval for a specific operation and is in no way generic. It is more like getting a ferry permit for oceanic flights for extra fuel. Yes, you generally do have more power and lift available, as only in the heat of summer do you get to ISO or above conditions. On Mon, Oct 27, 2008 at 1:57 PM, David McNeill wrote: Likewise the FAA permits certified > aircraft less than 12500# to operate at 115% of certificated weight in > Alaska. I believe this is due to engine power availability rather than > structural strength of the airframe. So I am not worried that a 4% increase > in gross weight will compromise safety. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
Date: Oct 27, 2008
I usually re weigh my planes 2 or 3 times just to make sure I had no side load on any of the scales. Side load can give huge errors. Gary Specketer 40274 Flying _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 10:16 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Weight and Balance Questions It was level. But I will continue the investigation! Thanks, Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Purge Valves
Date: Oct 27, 2008
I'm in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didn't want to have to add anymore lines after I complete the tanks. I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purge valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel vent line. My concern with this approach is that I'm not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to the left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: cowl hinges
I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For those that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge material. Or...would you switch to Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks in advance. Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl hinges
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Not flying yet, but if I did it again I would use proseal between the hinge and cowl before rivetting. cheers, Ron -187 painting ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dogsbark(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, 28 October 2008 1:03 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: cowl hinges I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For those that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge material. Or...would you switch to Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks in advance. Sean Blair #40225 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl hinges
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
There are a lot of choices to connect your cowl. On my -10 we went all out with the sky bolts but they are unreasonably expensive and heavy IMHO. An excellent alternative to piano hinges and sky bolts or locks is a simple stainless screw. My RV-6A cowl is held together with S/S screws and they work great, look good and can you can replace 5 of them for a quarter. The cowl uses piano hinges along the vertical lower sides but S/S screws along the top, horizontal sides & the underside. I much prefer these to piano hinges. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Oct 28, 2008
Subject: Purge Valves
Bob, many people did option two and routed it back to the line before the selector. Seems to work ok. You wouldn't have hot fuel circulating as lo ng as you select the opposite tank. In my particular case I plumbed the re turn to the right tank so when purging hot fuel I would select the left tan k to draw from. Michael http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c ategory=0&log=57694&row=22 http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c ategory=0&log=56523&row=23 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves I'm in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been researc hing how to plumb the purge valve. I didn't want to have to add anymore li nes after I complete the tanks. I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg e valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch a nd let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed t o the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel vent line. My concern with this approach is that I'm not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of t he reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Purge Valves
I put in the Andair dual valve and plumbed both sides in to the tank and further in to the second bay. I had QB tanks and had to open them up for two SB's and getting my fuel senders aligned. My thinking was that now I won't have to placard "Select Left tank for purge operations" as it will always go back from where it came. Also, since I had the tanks open to put in a return line, I ran it in to the next bay at the same level to dilute the heat as you have discussed. I'll be testing my fuel system this weekend - if it passes, the dragon will breathe..... Ralph Capen -----Original Message----- >From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> >Sent: Oct 27, 2008 10:01 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves > >I'm in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been >researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didn't want to have to add >anymore lines after I complete the tanks. > > > >I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purge >valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a >lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch >and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed >to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. > > > >In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. >The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel >vent line. My concern with this approach is that I'm not sure what would >prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. > > > >The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to the >left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that the >hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of the >reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. > > > >I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the >return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Bob > >#40684 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: cowl hinges
I used SkyBolts around the perimeter of the firewall and heavier hinge material for the two horizontal runs. -----Original Message----- >From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net >Sent: Oct 27, 2008 10:33 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: cowl hinges > >I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For those that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge material. Or...would you switch to Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks in advance. Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: cowl hinges
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 28, 2008
After reading about cracked ears on the cowl hinges, we decided to go with camlocs all around the firewall, and it is sooo easy to mount/disassemble the cowl. As others have said, it's a one man operation. I didn't see the need to scallop -- the weight is negligible, it's easier, and stronger. I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW I saw a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim? ... still can't find it!) and I ran across a reference to using a smaller hinge pin than the one that comes with the hinge. Did I miss something? I've been sweating getting that dang pin in, even with the extra length and an angle on the surplus, it's a really tight fit to get it all the way in. With the bottom on first, if I put the tightest side hinge pin in first, thump it toward the other side, put the second pin in, then camloc it down -- it works. Really snug! I may just hand sand down the pin if folks are using a smaller pin. I've glassed in a tunnel from the entrance of the pin to the first ear (coated a scrap of pin with vasoline and glassed around it) so that I don't have to poke around hunting for that first ear. Let me know if anyone knows where to find those pics of anchoring the pins. I remember one guy in that thread said he'd fed his pin in through the cabin ... Wow! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210754#210754 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Purge Valves
Date: Oct 28, 2008
This is exactly what we did. It works great with very little additional pl umbing and no modifications to the tank. Just be sure the fuel selector v alve is on the opposite tank than the return is plumbed to when purging the system. -----Original Message----- From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 6:51 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Purge Valves - Bob, many people did option two and routed it back to the line before t he selector.- Seems to work ok.- You wouldn=92t have hot fuel circulati ng as long as you select the opposite tank.- In my particular case I plum bed the return to the right tank so when purging hot fuel I would select th e left tank to draw from. - Michael - http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c ategory=0&log=57694&row=22 http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c ategory=0&log=56523&row=23 - - From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:01 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves - I=92m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been resea rching how to plumb the purge valve.- I didn=92t want to have to add anym ore lines after I complete the tanks. - I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg e valve to be run back to the left tank.-- If you really want to go wit h a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank swit ch and let the switch control which tank is connected.- Just having it ro uted to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. - In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. -- The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel vent line.- My concern with this approach is that I=92m not sure wh at would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. - The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve.-- My concern here is t hat the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. - I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. - Thanks, [The entire original message is not included] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
Subject: Re: cowl hinges
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW I saw a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim? ... still can't find it!) http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/ William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: cowl hinges
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Here is a sweet pin cover: Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: cowl hinges
Date: Oct 28, 2008
I ran the hinge pins aft on my 8A. They run though 1/4" aluminum tube to out of sight bulkhead fittings under the panel. I'll do the same on the 10. Carl Froehlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:43 PM Subject: re: RV10-List: Re: cowl hinges > I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW I saw a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim? ... still can't find it!) http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/ William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Purge Valves
Date: Oct 28, 2008
I have 450 hours on my Airflow Performance 8A. I installed a return line to top of the left tank for the purge valve. Returning to either vent line is not a good idea. That said, I have never had a need to actually purge the engine. I do however use the purge valve for normal engine shut down to bleed the pressure out of the spider. Bottom line is I see no =93hot fuel=94 problem for returning the purge line fuel to a T in the left tank fuel line, nor is there any reason to do the expensive option of having a ganged fuel selector valve. If you are still building, installing a =BC=94 bulkhead fitting in the left tank is simple enough to do even if you end up not using a purge valve and just cap it. This is what I did for my 10. Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves I=92m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didn=92t want to have to add anymore lines after I complete the tanks. I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purge valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel vent line. My concern with this approach is that I=92m not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to the left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2008
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Fwd: cowl hinges
Sean, This got bounced when I tried to send to the digest. =C2-I must not be si gned up correctly. =C2-I have photos of several applications. The neatest seri es is the Lancair IV with hinges all the way around on the cowl. =C2-Let me kno w if you'd like to see them - I can email them to you. Would you mind forwarding the text below to the Digest for me? Thanks, John Barrett -----Original Message----- From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman(at)cablespeed.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 7:07 AM Subject: re: cowl hinges Sean Blair writes: **************** I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. =C2-For tho se that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge material. =C2-Or...would you switch to Skybolts? =C2-I'm aware of the p roblem of the lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks in advance. Sean Blair #40225 **************** Sean, Most people agree that fastening the cowl with a hidden system is far superior esthetically to Cam Locks or screws or other systems that require insertion and removal with a driver of some kind at various points along th e outside of the cowl. Aside from the extra work to service the engine compartment with the Skybolts, the likelihood of dinging up the paint is real and almost certain. =C2-There is additional drag that accompanies th ese systems as well. If you accept the above premises, then the discussion centers around what kind of hinge to use and how you apply it. =C2-Metal hinges attached to composite material may be a choice but if you had access to a composite hinge that weighs a lot less, and would outperform and outlast the metal hinge wouldn't that be preferable? With Carbinge, you simply bond the hinge to place with Hysol or some other high peel strength adhesive then secure the hinge at either end with a rive t or two and the job is done. =C2-We have applications in aircraft that are much higher performance than the RV's. The Lancair IVP that uses the initial prototype hinges we made has been flying almost 10 years and has well over 1,000 hours on it. =C2-The prototype hinges have about 1/3 the strength a nd quality of our production hinge and even so they have shown no deterioratio n such as the broken loops discussed on this thread. =C2-We now have a few aircraft that utilize Carbinge for attachment of the lower cowl to fuselage . Once again the reports are that the system works well and holds up because the composite doesn't deteriorate with load cycles and vibration like the aluminum ones do. =C2-There is at least one L IV that uses the Carbinge t o attach the rear of the top cowl to the fuselage. =C2-It has several hundr ed hours of flight time on it and still looks beautiful - the owner is very happy with it. =C2-He visited us from Southern California a couple of mon ths ago and I have to say the application is really cool. =C2- There are literally many hundreds of builders including lots of RV guys who have used our product for cowling attachment and who thank us for Carbinge. They appreciate the quality, the service, the ease of installation and the performance over time. This is a shameless plug, I realize, but it comes with a strong belief in the product and commitment to customer satisfaction. See www.carbinge.com Regards, John Barrett, CEO Leading Edge Composites PO Box 428 Port Hadlock, WA 98339 www.carbinge.com =C2- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: TCW Technologies Products
Date: Oct 28, 2008
Fellow RV builders, Just a note to let you know that the new products we had on display at Oshkosh are now available and in stock. We introduced two products: 1) The Intelligent Power Stabilizer (IPS) which allows critical equipment in the plane, such as GPS, EFIS and engine monitors to be up and running before and during engine starting without the need to carry an auxiliary battery. Additionally, based on feedback from the show, we've introduced an 8 amp model of this product as well. 2) The Intelligent Lighting Controller (ILC) which allows remote, electronic switching of the primary aircraft lighting circuits and includes the wig-wag function as well as dimming control of 3 lighting circuits. All the details are available on our web site. www.tcwtech.com As always thanks for your support Bob Newman RV-10 (40176) TCW Technologies, LLC. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Purge Valves
I too have the AFP system. I installed a "T" in the right fuel line. For hot starts I select the left tank and valve open which flushes cool fuel from the left tank back into the right (follow link below). http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rv10builder&project=7&category=501&log=15056&row=37 Brian Sutherland Nashville, TN N104BS - 91 flying hours Bob Leffler wrote: > > Im in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been > researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didnt want to have to add > anymore lines after I complete the tanks. > > I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the > purge valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go > with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel > tank switch and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just > having it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. > > In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two > solutions. The first solution routes the return line to a tee > connection in the fuel vent line. My concern with this approach is > that Im not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent > line when purging. > > The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed > to the left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here > is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and > defeat one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. > > I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing > the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > #40684 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Purge Valves
Well...almost flying, but=C2-I ran mine through the firewall with a AN-4 bulkhead adapter, inside the=C2-cabin and out the right=C2-wing root an d tee'd it to the fuel supply, I also put a check valve from Andair inline to allow fuel to only flow to the tank, not from it. It seemed like a good idea to prevent fuel from being somehow drawn up to the purge valve. I real ly want to point out that the valve is a critical part of flight for the fu el system. If it should somehow open, you're gonna shut down the engine. I used the same control cable on the valve as I did the throttle and took the same care to run the cable as I did with all the engine/mixture/prop contr ols. I played with a failsafe closed=C2-return spring but ended up gettin g frustrated trying to find a balanced spring to make it work well in all p ositions as well as allowing me to operate the control. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 3:57:59 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Purge Valves I have 450 hours on my Airflow Performance 8A.=C2- I installed a return l ine to top of the left tank for the purge valve.=C2- Returning to either vent line is not a good idea. That said, I have never had a need to actually purge the engine.=C2- I do however use the purge valve for normal engine shut down to bleed the press ure out of the spider.=C2- Bottom line is I see no =9Chot fuel =9D problem for returning the purge line fuel to a T in the left tank fu el line, nor is there any reason to do the expensive option of having a gan ged fuel selector valve.=C2- If you are still building, installing a =C2=BC=9D bulkhead fitting in the left tank is simple enough to do even if you end up not using a purge valve and just cap it.=C2- This is what I did for my 10. Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves I=99m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been researching how to plumb the purge valve.=C2- I didn=99t want to h ave to add anymore lines after I complete the tanks. I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg e valve to be run back to the left tank.=C2-=C2- If you really want to go with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tan k switch and let the switch control which tank is connected.=C2- Just hav ing it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve. In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions. =C2-=C2- The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel vent line.=C2- My concern with this approach is that I =99m not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging. The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve.=C2-=C2- My concern her e is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defea t one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation. I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not. Thanks, Bob #40684 =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://fo ====== ==== ======================= == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Wegith and Balance
Date: Oct 28, 2008
Based on a request from John Acherman, here is my WB Spreadsheet. Use at your own risk. :-) Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 5:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wegith and Balance I finally get around to getting an official weight and balance for my airplane. But it has lead to a few questions. (1) I find in surprising that vans RV-10 sample WB pdf does not have arms for the nose wheel and the mains. Do they expect those to be different from one builder to another? I could not find any spreadsheets from other builders showing what their moment arms were. Yes I know I am supposed to measure this but I want to compare my results to some others. My Nose wheel arm ended up being 50.125" forward of the leading edge (99.440 based on Vans numbers) which makes my nose wheel arm 49.315. My mains are back 24" from the wing LE making my mains arm 123.440". What did others measure? (2) So now I weigh the airplane (using certified scales) and I find the empty CG way forward (102.46"). I expected the forward CG but not quite that much. Even with me as the sole occupant and half fuel, I need to have 100 lbs in the baggage area just to get the CG back to the most forward allowable (107.84"). Now I played with the numbers and it does allow one to really load up the airplane for maximum capabilities, but wow I didn't expect to have to load up the baggage area on the first flights. Did others find the same conditions? If one were to take off on the first flight and not check the CG, it woudl make for an interesting landing! Looks like carrying passengers on the flights is not only good but maybe even required unless I want to carry around some extra weight (couple of 5 gallon water containers). Very interesting! Jim Combs N312F, 40192 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 29, 2008
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 29, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised that there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences however. http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html Bob RV-10 N442PM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Amazing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Hudes <phudes(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Amazing
Date: Oct 29, 2008
What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. Pete Hudes On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > > Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised that > there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences > however. > > http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html > > Bob > RV-10 N442PM > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Amazing > > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 29, 2008
It looks that way to me too. It looks like lite ply on the fuselage wing root and round wing rods. Just like on the RC planes. JOhn G. ---------------------------------------- > From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing > Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:42:26 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. > > Pete Hudes > On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> >> >> Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised that >> there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences >> however. >> >> http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html >> >> Bob >> RV-10 N442PM >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Amazing >> >> >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 29, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Doctored.... If it's missing one wing, the remaining wingtip should be on the ground because of the imbalance. -----Original Message----- From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 8:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Amazing It looks that way to me too. It looks like lite ply on the fuselage wing root and round wing rods. Just like on the RC planes. JOhn G. ---------------------------------------- > From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing > Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:42:26 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. > > Pete Hudes > On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> >> >> Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised that >> there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences >> however. >> >> http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html >> >> Bob >> RV-10 N442PM >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Amazing >> >> >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2008
Subject: Re: Amazing
From: Freddie Hegler <MaxHegler(at)msn.com>
Not in all cases, especially light aircraft. The wings on most civil aircraft are fairly light and may cause the aircraft to lean in that direction, but wouldn't necessarily touch the ground. I had to pull the right wing on my RV-7, and though I had a support under the left wing, it didn't lean enough to even touch the support. Max On 10/29/08 9:57 PM, "Perry, Phil" wrote: > > Doctored.... > > If it's missing one wing, the remaining wingtip should be on the ground > because of the imbalance. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 8:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Amazing > > > > It looks that way to me too. It looks like lite ply on the fuselage wing > root and round wing rods. Just like on the RC planes. > > JOhn G. > > > ---------------------------------------- >> From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing >> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:42:26 -0700 >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >> What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. >> >> Pete Hudes >> On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised that > >>> there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences >>> however. >>> >>> http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html >>> >>> Bob >>> RV-10 N442PM >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Carpenter >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Amazing >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 30, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Yeah, I agree. But let me clarify. If you pulled a wing at rest, you might be able to gently pull it out and have the plane stand there. But if you bounced it on the ground at 30mph, had that huge engine at high-rpm and torquing, then rolled it across a rough grass surface - that would be enough to tip the plane. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Freddie Hegler [mailto:MaxHegler(at)msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 10:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing Not in all cases, especially light aircraft. The wings on most civil aircraft are fairly light and may cause the aircraft to lean in that direction, but wouldn't necessarily touch the ground. I had to pull the right wing on my RV-7, and though I had a support under the left wing, it didn't lean enough to even touch the support. Max On 10/29/08 9:57 PM, "Perry, Phil" wrote: > > Doctored.... > > If it's missing one wing, the remaining wingtip should be on the > ground because of the imbalance. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 8:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Amazing > > --> > > > It looks that way to me too. It looks like lite ply on the fuselage > wing root and round wing rods. Just like on the RC planes. > > JOhn G. > > > ---------------------------------------- >> From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing >> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:42:26 -0700 >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >> What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. >> >> Pete Hudes >> On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised >>> that > >>> there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences >>> however. >>> >>> http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html >>> >>> Bob >>> RV-10 N442PM >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Carpenter >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Amazing >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amazing
Date: Oct 30, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I just found another one in there too. The right wing falls off, but the plane spins to the left. The lift of the left wing should have made the plane spin right. -----Original Message----- From: Freddie Hegler [mailto:MaxHegler(at)msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 10:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing Not in all cases, especially light aircraft. The wings on most civil aircraft are fairly light and may cause the aircraft to lean in that direction, but wouldn't necessarily touch the ground. I had to pull the right wing on my RV-7, and though I had a support under the left wing, it didn't lean enough to even touch the support. Max On 10/29/08 9:57 PM, "Perry, Phil" wrote: > > Doctored.... > > If it's missing one wing, the remaining wingtip should be on the > ground because of the imbalance. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 8:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Amazing > > --> > > > It looks that way to me too. It looks like lite ply on the fuselage > wing root and round wing rods. Just like on the RC planes. > > JOhn G. > > > ---------------------------------------- >> From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Amazing >> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:42:26 -0700 >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> >> >> What a crock! This was a doctored video using an RC airplane. >> >> Pete Hudes >> On Oct 29, 2008, at 5:10 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Here's the interview with the pilot after the event. Be advised >>> that > >>> there is some language that isn't appropriate for all audiences >>> however. >>> >>> http://www.jamesandersson.com/interview.html >>> >>> Bob >>> RV-10 N442PM >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Carpenter >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 4:51 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Amazing >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRCbkBfdBrQ >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: winter flying
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Oct 30, 2008
anyone found an easy way to preheat rv 10 engine when necessary due to brrrrr winter?? larry -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211185#211185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The Gorilla speaks
Date: Oct 30, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
After hearing from three separate sources directly that Garmin had no plans for upgrading the 496 anytime soon (Aug '08) we have all received word of the new, improved Garmin 696. Now it is clear why they were offering such a killer deal for upgrades to the 496XM with $100 back at OSH '08. Now we know "Coming Soon" is less than 3 months and "No time soon" is 3 months and three weeks. Its 2.3 lbs with a 7" screen displaying 800 x 480 pixels. XM weather, Chartview, SafeTaxi, Simulated Six pack and the kitchen ginsu knife. Now for a Gizmo mount. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2008
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Trim indicators - flying experience
To any of you flyers out there, what is your opinion about the need for the Allen trim indicators? Should I definitely install them? Not? Are they part of your 'scan' or not? I am installing TCW's Trim controller and will be operating the trim from the stick grips. Bill "deep in panel" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2008
Subject: Re: Trim indicators - flying experience
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
I am using the Advanced Flight Systems AF-3500. They have indicators built in for elevator, aileron and flap position. No need to mount the trim indicator. Jim Combs (N312F, 40192) > > > To any of you flyers out there, what is your opinion about the need for > the Allen trim indicators? Should I definitely install them? Not? Are > they part of your 'scan' or not? > > I am installing TCW's Trim controller and will be operating the trim from > the stick grips. > > Bill "deep in panel" Watson > > > List Features Navigator to browse such as List Un/Subscription, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > > content also available via the Web Forums! http://forums.matronics.com > > for your generous support! -Matt Dralle, List Admin. http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: The Gorilla speaks
Date: Oct 30, 2008
The Gorilla speakshttp://garmin.blogs.com/pr/2008/10/garmin-gpsmap-6.html I'll check it out at AOPA next week. Which is when it says it will be on sale. Thanks for the insight John! Pascal From: John Cox Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 9:10 AM Subject: RV10-List: The Gorilla speaks After hearing from three separate sources directly that Garmin had no plans for upgrading the 496 anytime soon (Aug '08) we have all received word of the new, improved Garmin 696. Now it is clear why they were offering such a killer deal for upgrades to the 496XM with $100 back at OSH '08. Now we know "Coming Soon" is less than 3 months and "No time soon" is 3 months and three weeks. Its 2.3 lbs with a 7" screen displaying 800 x 480 pixels. XM weather, Chartview, SafeTaxi, Simulated Six pack and the kitchen ginsu knife. Now for a Gizmo mount. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim indicators - flying experience
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 30, 2008
Bill, Same w/GRT - you can display trim and/or flap position on the display if you want. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211220#211220 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west....
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 30, 2008
Doug, There are several of the EFIS systems in -10s in this area. Pat Brandt has AFS in his -10 (Dennison, IA), Larry Geiger has Chelton (Lincoln, NE) Dean Sombke has Dynon (Aurora, NE) and as mentioned I've got GRT in mine. You can probably find them in a -7 closer but I've got contact for all of the above. With a little planing I suspect it wouldn't be too difficult to get them all together in a single location you can see them all side by side! Actually, I think we were all at the BNW fly-in this year along with Tim Olson (Chelton). Bob RV-10 N442PM Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211313#211313 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Speaking to the choir
Date: Oct 30, 2008
Just thought I would make a comment. I completed my airplane last Spring..well almost completed my airplane last Spring, always something else to do. I played hooky from work yesterday and took a friend up. I guess I had started getting comfortable with having the -10 and was starting to take it for granted. My friend has many hours (passenger) in C172s and C182s, but he left this flight with the "RV Grin." He just could not get over the airplane's performance and handling. So to make a long story short, I have regained my sense of excitement about my RV-10 and will have to think back to that flight every once in a while to remind myself what a beautiful airplane the RV-10 is. For those who are still building....it is truly worth all the effort. Rene' N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Subject: The Gorilla speaks
WOW.............Garmin with a GPS screen bigger than 3"? Bigger than m y Avmap..........bigger price too. Will wait for Avmap to come out wi th the new Avmap V...........it will not require a panel extension to fit. :) DEAN 805HL Oil change time. _____________________________________________________________ Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifXQ9BBRy8fmAQPSSZdKvz l8ijGzA5Mh7YAdFUiNe5GmnkEc/?count=1234567890 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Speaking to the choir
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Rene' Even the choir needs encouragement from time to time=3B) Thanks=2C Vern Smith (#324 finishing) don not archive From: rene(at)felker.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Speakin g to the choirDate: Thu=2C 30 Oct 2008 20:07:03 -0600 Just thought I would make a comment. I completed my airplane last Spring =85.well almost completed my airplane last Spring=2C always something else to do. I played hooky from work yesterday and took a friend up. I guess I had started getting comfortable with having the -10 and was starting to ta ke it for granted. My friend has many hours (passenger) in C172s and C182s =2C but he left this flight with the =93RV Grin.=94 He just could not get over the airplane=92s performance and handling. So to make a long story short=2C I have regained my sense of excitement abo ut my RV-10 and will have to think back to that flight every once in a whil e to remind myself what a beautiful airplane the RV-10 is. For those who are still building=85=85..it is truly worth all the effort. Rene' N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 _________________________________________________________________ You live life beyond your PC. So now Windows goes beyond your PC. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: The Gorilla speaks
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Whoaa...who started the rumor that you had to buy the stuff the "day" after expiration? I'm not 100% sure on this product, but most of the other Garmin products that use charting (like the GMX, MX, G900X, G1000, G600, etc..) have a "sunset" period where the data is still usable for some period of time. I think it's 180 days but I'm not 100% sure. I just know that on all the other products is doesn't become useless the day the data expires. How about your GPS? Does the map quit working the day the database expires? These are the rumors and wives tails that can get spread with little to no actual or factual first hand basis - so let's not hypothesize (at least negatively) about such things until we actually know the facts, eh? My 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint >Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 6:48 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: The Gorilla speaks > > >Of course, to be a good sun visor it would need to have synthetic >vision. It looks like they are not using Jep plates, so that should >make the updates cheaper, but it also would bother me if I had to >update on or after the day of expiration of the old plates to be able >to use them. > >Jesse Saint >Saint Aviation, Inc. >jesse(at)saintaviation.com >Cell: 352-427-0285 >Fax: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Subject: Re: The Gorilla speaks
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
SteinAir, Inc. wrote: > These are the rumors and wives tails that can get spread with little to no > actual or factual first hand basis - so let's not hypothesize (at least > negatively) about such things until we actually know the facts, eh? > > On page 125 of the 696 owners manual <http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GPSMAP695_OwnersManual.pdf> it says: "FliteCharts data is revised every 28 days. Charts are still viewable during a period that extends from the cycle expiration date to the disabled date. FliteCharts is disabled 180 days after the expiration date and are no longer available for viewing upon reaching the disabled date. When turning on the GPSMAP 695/696, the Powerup Page indicates any of five different possible criteria for chart availability. These indications are whether the databases are not configured, not available, current, out of date, or disabled." Looks like you can view them up to 180 days after they expire. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Subject: Re: Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west....
If you fly out to Oregon you can always fly in my RV-10 with three screens, weather, traffic, SL30, and a 430W. We should have the latest software with Flight Director, Autopilot interface, and weather released in the next couple of weeks. We just sent out the latest beta version and we should be very close if not finished with it. We are also making good progress on our new synthetic vision "ADVANCED SV"upgrade and it should be ready for Sun-n-Fun. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chris Johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com>
Subject: Re: Advanced SV - was Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west....
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Hey Rob - I've heard the little hints about your synthetic vision and was wondering if you'd be willing to share any details? Specifically whether it will be available for the 3400 and 3500 when it comes? C'mon, I know you're just itching to talk about it!!! Give us a little taste! cj aka "huge AFS fan" On Oct 31, 2008, at 5:19 PM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > If you fly out to Oregon you can always fly in my RV-10 with three > screens, weather, traffic, SL30, and a 430W. > > We should have the latest software with Flight Director, Autopilot > interface, and weather released in the next couple of weeks. We > just sent out the latest beta version and we should be very close > if not finished with it. > > We are also making good progress on our new synthetic vision > "ADVANCED SV"upgrade and it should be ready for Sun-n-Fun. > > Rob Hickman > Advanced Flight Systems > > > Plan your next getaway witx1200771803/aol?redir=http:// > travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001">Check out > Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west....
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 31, 2008
Folks.... Thanks to all who've replied both here and via email. The great thing about this "problem" is that compared to 2003-2004 when I was finishing up the 7A.... about the only thing affordable then was the D10 from Dynon.... the functionality of these units today is just amazing. It looks like, at a minimum I'll get the chance to fly with Bob C. behind the GRT this weekend and maybe even get a chance to do the same with Pat and the AFS as well. (First flight in the 10 as well) > "If I had known now that they would be, they would > offer, they couldn't do". John.. isn't that the interesting quandary of life. We all make decisions based upon what information we have at our disposal today knowing full well that if you delay the decision for a day, a week, a month, a year, etc... you'll have more complete information than you do today and with a little God given intelligence make a better decision. But you do reach a point where you can't delay any more and you have to place your bets. In this economy, who's going to survive to support their units 5 years from now? (who would have bet against Lehman Bros a year ago or even 6 months ago?) Functionality wise, it's a pretty good bet that AFS and GRT are going to keep progressing with their respective units as long as they can maintain the cash flow to continue to invest in development. My mission is clear. IFR XC. Fly the 7A today that way with the D10, 430, digitrak & altrak a/p and round gauges as backup to the D10. Rob, thanks for the offer. Wish I was where I could fly with ya.... my plan includes the 430, sl30, 330 and digiflight vsgv which sounds like what you're basically flying with. This decision too shall be made :) Doug -------- Doug "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211427#211427 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: dralle(at)matronics.com
Subject: Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through soley through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts. Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/). These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: https://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really do feel like family. Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Subject: The Gorilla speaks
SGV5IE1pa2UsIGFyZSB5b3UgZ29pbmcgdG8gYmUgbWFraW5nIGEgZG9jayBmb3IgYW55IG9mIHRo ZXNlIG5ldyBjcm9wIG9mIOKAnHBvcnRhYmxl4oCdIGRldmljZXM/DQoNCk1pY2hhZWwNCg0KRnJv bTogb3duZXItcnYxMC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIFttYWlsdG86b3duZXItcnYx MC1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tXSBPbiBCZWhhbGYgT2YgTWljaGFlbCBTY2hpcHBl cg0KU2VudDogRnJpZGF5LCBPY3RvYmVyIDMxLCAyMDA4IDk6MDcgUE0NClRvOiBydjEwLWxpc3RA bWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0KU3ViamVjdDogUmU6IFJWMTAtTGlzdDogVGhlIEdvcmlsbGEgc3BlYWtz DQoNClllcC4gSSBoYWQgbXkgNDk2IHN0b2xlbiBmcm9tIG15IGNhciBvdmVyIHRoZSB3ZWVrZW5k LiBHcnIuDQpNaWtlIFNjaGlwcGVyDQo0MDU3NiAtIGZpbmlzaGluZyAtIHd3dy5ydnRlbi5jb208 aHR0cDovL3d3dy5ydnRlbi5jb20+DQoNCg0K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: OPPS! Windscreen and faring
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Confession time! I made an opps! I have to say that the instruction for building the windscreen faring could be written much better for someone with instructionitis. I have a fare amount of experience with fiberglass. The directions tell you to use a 7 inch radius to determine the forward edge height of the fiberglass overlap onto the windscreen. The trailing height near the door intersection is determined by the curve in the door window joggle. In any case, from what I can determine, I sanded my windscreen about one and a half inch higher than it needed to be. I didn't realize this until I started cutting the strips of fiberglass and wonderred, man if the widest strip of glass is only 3.5" and I am centering each layer of glass on top of the other, that is only going to make a 1.75" plexi glass overlap. Some of the confusion was that the directions stated to sand the aluminum 4" forward of the base of the windscreen. Why they ask this if the widest glass layer is only going to extend 1.75" forward is beyond me. If I were to do it all over again...I would use the height of the rear corner to define the height of the plexi glass overlap and extend that height forward and all the way around. I would make the fiberglass widths wider so that they cover more of the aluminum, but I wouldn't center them on one another. obviously, the overlap would progressively get wider over the aluminum than it does over the plexiglass. I would also mix some flox into the micro mix for the base of the windscreen. The first few layers of glass should be wider IMO because they should slightly over lap the plexiglass and it doesn't SEE FIGURE in manual. Because I sanded the windscreen, I did something different. Of course I was doing something different from the beginning because I was using 8.1oz satin weave cloth, so I planned on more laminations from the beginning. I ended up using the same beginning widths but after the 3.5", I did 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 6.75. Well, I have a bullet proof faring, I just want to say my profile and head on view will look different than the rest of them. I have never had the seats in the plane, but I don't think the view over the cowl will be too much different. HEADS UP IF YOU AREONE WITH INSTRUCTIONITIS. John G. 409, It almost looks like the Lancair Evolution, just kidding. Moving on now that I have purged. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: OPPS! Windscreen and faring
John, I wouldn't fret over it, I didn't like the appearance for the smaller Van's radius and so I made a template with a larger Radius (9"?) and then adjusted the widths of the layups accordingly as you did. It seems to have turned out fine. http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20PP%20Painting%20Preparation/slides/DSC04472.html http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06753.html http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06757.html http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06752.html Deems > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: OPPS! Windscreen and faring
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Thanks Deems. Your plane looks just great too. JOhn G ---------------------------------------- > Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 08:32:28 -0700 > From: deemsdavis(at)cox.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: OPPS! Windscreen and faring > > > John, I wouldn't fret over it, I didn't like the appearance for the > smaller Van's radius and so I made a template with a larger Radius > (9"?) and then adjusted the widths of the layups accordingly as you > did. It seems to have turned out fine. > > http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20PP%20Painting%20Preparation/slides/DSC04472.html > http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06753.html > http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06757.html > http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Painting/slides/DSC06752.html > > Deems > >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contribution Site URL Clarification
Dear Listers, In my List Fund Raiser kickoff email last night, I mistyped the URL for the *initial* Contribution web site and couple of people reported receiving SSL certificate errors. The actual payment entry pages where were correct, however, so there were no certificate issues that impacted payment data. I'm sorry for the confusion. Please use the following URL to start your List Contribution: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Screw hardware for instrument panel
I'm thinking of using black socket head screws for most of the panel. Stein's blank is setup for #8, the electronic instruments (autopilot, ADI) are setup for #6. I'm thinking black socket heads will look good on a tan/brown panel. What's a good source for black socket heads? A/C Spruce doesn't seem to do those. Any other thoughts? Bill "making holes in the panel blank" Watson 40605 in Durham NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Screw hardware for instrument panel
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Bill, Regardless of what screws you pick, if you go for black oxide screws you will definetly want to paint them first. Black oxide is not much of a rust inhibitor and you will have rusted panel screws after a couple of humidity cycles. -Bob Newman 40176 ----- Original Message ----- From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 12:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Screw hardware for instrument panel > > I'm thinking of using black socket head screws for most of the panel. > Stein's blank is setup for #8, the electronic instruments (autopilot, ADI) > are setup for #6. I'm thinking black socket heads will look good on a > tan/brown panel. > > What's a good source for black socket heads? A/C Spruce doesn't seem to > do those. Any other thoughts? > > Bill "making holes in the panel blank" Watson > 40605 in Durham NC > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Screw hardware for instrument panel
That's real good to know. Sounds like the voice of experience. Thanks Bob. Bob-tcw wrote: > > Bill, Regardless of what screws you pick, if you go for black oxide > screws you will definetly want to paint them first. Black oxide is > not much of a rust inhibitor and you will have rusted panel screws > after a couple of humidity cycles. > > > -Bob Newman > 40176 > ----- Original Message ----- From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> > To: "RV10-List Digest Server" > Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 12:08 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Screw hardware for instrument panel > > >> >> I'm thinking of using black socket head screws for most of the panel. >> Stein's blank is setup for #8, the electronic instruments (autopilot, >> ADI) are setup for #6. I'm thinking black socket heads will look >> good on a tan/brown panel. >> >> What's a good source for black socket heads? A/C Spruce doesn't seem >> to do those. Any other thoughts? >> >> Bill "making holes in the panel blank" Watson >> 40605 in Durham NC >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Screw hardware for instrument panel
Ace hardware, Home Depot, or Lowes Deems MauleDriver wrote: > > I'm thinking of using black socket head screws for most of the panel. > Stein's blank is setup for #8, the electronic instruments (autopilot, > ADI) are setup for #6. I'm thinking black socket heads will look good > on a tan/brown panel. > > What's a good source for black socket heads? A/C Spruce doesn't seem > to do those. Any other thoughts? > > Bill "making holes in the panel blank" Watson > 40605 in Durham NC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Screw hardware for instrument panel
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Bill, Try searching for this P/N: 96006A616 at http://www.mcmaster.com/ Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 9:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: Screw hardware for instrument panel I'm thinking of using black socket head screws for most of the panel. Stein's blank is setup for #8, the electronic instruments (autopilot, ADI) are setup for #6. I'm thinking black socket heads will look good on a tan/brown panel. What's a good source for black socket heads? A/C Spruce doesn't seem to do those. Any other thoughts? Bill "making holes in the panel blank" Watson 40605 in Durham NC ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Screw hardware for instrument panel
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 01, 2008
I tried those cap screws and then had a change of heart and went to regular black oxide screws... I do love the looks of black oxide against my tan panel.. The heads of those cap screws were too "tall" and I didn't care for that look that much after I saw it all mounted in the plane.. (easy to snag on..) McMaster is a good place for this kind of hardware.. their selection is hard to beat.. good luck.... Radomir RV-7A -------- RV-7A N777TY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211673#211673 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Hi Everyone, Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone. :) I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue. The shape of the bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the fuselage skin. I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured product? 2) How did you fix it? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
Date: Nov 01, 2008
This is where you use shims. Take some .032=94 and .025=94 scrap aluminum and cut into small squares, say =BE=94 by =BE=94 but you can trim them to fit as needed. Drill and dimple a hole in the center of the square and then prime. Insert the shim between the rib and the skin. In some places you will need to use two shims. The shims make the difference in having a nice curve in the skin as it follows the rib instead of flat spots where you drove in the rivet (without having anything in the gap between the skin and rib as shown in your photos). The rule is if you can squeeze a shim in between the skin and the rib, you need a shim. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (475 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 7:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin Hi Everyone, Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone. :) I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue. The shape of the bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the fuselage skin. I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured product? 2) How did you fix it? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west....
Date: Nov 01, 2008
Rob I just might take you up on that next spring. Looks like mother winter has arrived. Will be in Eugene over Thanksgiving but it will be a bit busy to visit. Any chance you might be coming down to Northern ca for aopa convention If so I would like to buy you a Starbucks. I am very interested in AFS and am very much leaning that way for my 10 but I have years to go I just started. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 5:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west.... If you fly out to Oregon you can always fly in my RV-10 with three screens, weather, traffic, SL30, and a 430W. We should have the latest software with Flight Director, Autopilot interface, and weather released in the next couple of weeks. We just sent out the latest beta version and we should be very close if not finished with it. We are also making good progress on our new synthetic vision "ADVANCED SV"upgrade and it should be ready for Sun-n-Fun. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems _____ Plan your next getaway witx1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntus trav00000001">Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Thanks Carl. I'm actually getting some small outward dents where the corners of the bulkheads are pressing against the inside of the skins. Do I shim to the point where the corners are lifted from the skin? Or do I leave the corners pressing against the skin and shim the gap only? I'm guessing option 1..... Phil ________________________________ From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)cox.net] Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin This is where you use shims. Take some .032" and .025" scrap aluminum and cut into small squares, say =BE" by =BE" but you can trim them to fit as needed. Drill and dimple a hole in the center of the square and then prime. Insert the shim between the rib and the skin. In some places you will need to use two shims. The shims make the difference in having a nice curve in the skin as it follows the rib instead of flat spots where you drove in the rivet (without having anything in the gap between the skin and rib as shown in your photos). The rule is if you can squeeze a shim in between the skin and the rib, you need a shim. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (475 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 7:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin Hi Everyone, Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone. :) I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue. The shape of the bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the fuselage skin. I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured product? 2) How did you fix it? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
Date: Nov 01, 2008
For corners that severe you might want to so some minor rounding of the rib=92s sharp edges using a scotch bright wheel in addition to using a shim. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 8:21 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin Thanks Carl. I'm actually getting some small outward dents where the corners of the bulkheads are pressing against the inside of the skins. Do I shim to the point where the corners are lifted from the skin? Or do I leave the corners pressing against the skin and shim the gap only? I'm guessing option 1..... Phil _____ From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)cox.net] Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:59 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin This is where you use shims. Take some .032=94 and .025=94 scrap aluminum and cut into small squares, say =BE=94 by =BE=94 but you can trim them to fit as needed. Drill and dimple a hole in the center of the square and then prime. Insert the shim between the rib and the skin. In some places you will need to use two shims. The shims make the difference in having a nice curve in the skin as it follows the rib instead of flat spots where you drove in the rivet (without having anything in the gap between the skin and rib as shown in your photos). The rule is if you can squeeze a shim in between the skin and the rib, you need a shim. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (475 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 7:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin Hi Everyone, Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone. :) I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue. The shape of the bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the fuselage skin. I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured product? 2) How did you fix it? Thanks, Phil href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avi gator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
I think If I remember back about 4 years ago...I saw the same thing and han d bent the tabs so they were rounded...this is not the only place you will run into this...I used the hand seamer on edge=C2-to make the tabs rounde d so the skin laid flat across the bulkheads tabs. I remember because the t ab center whre the hole is was too far for the cleco to reach and get a goo d grip...man the little things you can recall after four years..once you be nd the tabs, run the whole thing across the scotchbrite wheel to make a nic e smooth raduis for the skin to rest and remove any sharp edges for the tab to dig into the skin. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 4:36:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin Hi Everyone, Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone.=C2- :) I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue.=C2- The shape of the bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the fusel age skin. I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured produ ct? 2) How did you fix it? Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
From: "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net>
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Hey Phil, I saw this subject on VAF a while back. The discussion there went towards using liquid shim. Did you consider that? I'll be getting to where you are soon enough. Let me know. It's nice having an advance scout. Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211737#211737 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Subject: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
From: "DejaVu" <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net>
I can't remember either but I think Rick is correct. I would check the instructions again. I think you're supposed to flute those tabs. Try that first to reduce the amount of shimming required. Anh 40141-Flying > > > I think If I remember back about 4 years ago...I saw the same thing and > hand bent the tabs so they were rounded...this is not the only place you > will run into this...I used the hand seamer on edgeto make the tabs > rounded so the skin laid flat across the bulkheads tabs. I remember > because the tab center whre the hole is was too far for the cleco to reach > and get a good grip...man the little things you can recall after four > years..once you bend the tabs, run the whole thing across the scotchbrite > wheel to make a nice smooth raduis for the skin to rest and remove any > sharp edges for the tab to dig into the skin. > > Rick Sked > > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 4:36:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin > > > Hi Everyone, > > Last night I managed to stay awake until 2Am working on the tailcone. :) > > I finally had to go to bed when I found this issue. The shape of the > bulkhead flanges do not allow the flange to sit correctly against the > fuselage skin. > > I'm considering knocking off the corners of the flanges and letting it sit > against the skins correctly, however I wanted to pick your brain. > > 1) Did you experience this same gap, or do I have poorly manufactured > product? > 2) How did you fix it? > > Thanks, > Phil > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: The Gorilla speaks
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Yes, we will definitely have a dock for the 695/696, but it will be at least a month before it is available. Plenty of time for me to redesign my panel yet again! Regards, Mike Schipper 40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com On Nov 1, 2008, at 8:54 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > Hey Mike, are you going to be making a dock for any of these new > crop of =93portable=94 devices? > > Michael > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Source for high temp red silicone grommets?
From: "jbrinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 02, 2008
A high temp red silicone grommet is used around the fuel hose that traverses through the intercylinder cooling baffle between the upper fuel injection spider and the lower servo body. My engine started out life as an O-540, so I get to drill a baffle hole and somehow obtain the proper grommet. Checking the list of usual suspects (Spruce, Wicks, google, etc) wasn't very fruitful. Searching the Lyco parts manual didn't turn up a part number either (unless I missed it). Does anyone know where high temp grommets can be found? Thanks in advance for any replies. Handy grommet doc is attached. Cheers, Jay FWF stuff while procrastinating on door fitting Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211750#211750 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/grommets_ms35489_148.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Source for high temp red silicone grommets?
I don't have 6 cyl parts manual, but for the 4 cyl engines it is an AN931-12S17 grommet. Suspect the 6 cyl injected engines use same grommet. MS35489 is the correct replacement number. Genuine Hardware lists them in their catalog. You will need to know inside diameter needed and groove width needed. (pg 182-183 in the catalog I have). jbrinkmeyer wrote: > > A high temp red silicone grommet is used around the fuel hose that traverses through the intercylinder cooling baffle between the upper fuel injection spider and the lower servo body. My engine started out life as an O-540, so I get to drill a baffle hole and somehow obtain the proper grommet. > > Checking the list of usual suspects (Spruce, Wicks, google, etc) wasn't very fruitful. Searching the Lyco parts manual didn't turn up a part number either (unless I missed it). Does anyone know where high temp grommets can be found? > > Thanks in advance for any replies. Handy grommet doc is attached. > > Cheers, > Jay > FWF stuff while procrastinating on door fitting > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211750#211750 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/grommets_ms35489_148.pdf > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 02, 2008
I remember doing that last year. Fluting is the answer. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211762#211762 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Baggage door bowed
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Upon fitting my baggage door to the fuselage to drill the hinge, I find that the door has a pronounced outward bow, at the top, in the middle, so that the door's top edge isn't flush. With a strait edge, I can see the door is bowed out about 1/8 inch. To make matters worst, the QB fuselage has about a 1/16 inch bow IN the same area (center, top edge of door). The fuselage may push out some when the top is attached, but the bow in the door will still be un-acceptable. The bow probably came about due to the dimpling process, but I didn't notice until fitting. Can I tweak the door to try to straiten it, or do I need to build a new one, this time with some precautions to prevent it from warping? Obviously I may as well try to fix the door. Has anyone else had this issue, and how did you straiten the door? I'm thinking about ripping a 2x4 on the bandsaw,with a reverse curve to it, thus creating a male /female template, then squeezing the top of the door between the pieces. Anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas? Thanks Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage door bowed
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Q2hyaXMNCg0KU3RvcCBieSB0b2RheSBJIGxsIHNob3cgeW91IHdoYXQgSSBkaWQNCg0KUmljaw0K U2VudCB2aWEgQmxhY2tCZXJyeSBieSBBVCZUDQoNCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0t DQpGcm9tOiAiQ2hyaXMgSHVraWxsIiA8Y2podWtpbGxAY294Lm5ldD4NCg0KRGF0ZTogU3VuLCAy IE5vdiAyMDA4IDA4OjAwOjI1IA0KVG86IDxydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4NClN1Ympl Y3Q6IFJWMTAtTGlzdDogQmFnZ2FnZSBkb29yIGJvd2VkDQoNCg0KVGhpcyBpcyBhIG11bHRpLXBh cnQgbWVzc2FnZSBpbiBNSU1FIGZvcm1hdC4NCg0K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Nov 02, 2008
I completed my tailcone riveting in Aug and fluting does help. I also used a rubber grommet while riveting to allow me to push the tab and the skin together and it came out great. If you decide to shim, recommend going the liquid shim route--you can use epoxy and flox quite easily to make the shim. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211765#211765 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Gretz Pitot Connection
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Hi After a bout of builder interruptus, I am back at it again and want to finish of my QB wings (not that there really is all that much to do!). Anyway, I have got a Gretz heated pitot and am stumped on the preferred way to connect the =BC=94 OD copper pitot tube on the Gretz to some plastic pitot tubing. I have seen one site where some plastic tubing was used to make a connection. I also see that www.safeair1.com <http://www.safeair1.com/> has a connector but is with hardware for aluminum. To those who have gone before have any suggestions? Cheers Les Kearney #40643 ' some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Gretz Pitot Connection
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Les, I soldered on one of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20080401/5463K243L.GIF and screwed in one of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/library/1/1045732/5520K173L.GIF (These are pretty handy in a lot of places) Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Connection Hi After a bout of builder interruptus, I am back at it again and want to finish of my QB wings (not that there really is all that much to do!). Anyway, I have got a Gretz heated pitot and am stumped on the preferred way to connect the =BC=94 OD copper pitot tube on the Gretz to some plastic pitot tubing. I have seen one site where some plastic tubing was used to make a connection. I also see that www.safeair1.com <http://www.safeair1.com/> has a connector but is with hardware for aluminum. To those who have gone before have any suggestions? Cheers Les Kearney #40643 ' some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Gretz Pitot Connection
Date: Nov 02, 2008
Oops. Other way around. Solder the copper and screw in the plastic... _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 10:32 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Connection Les, I soldered on one of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20080401/5463K243L.GIF and screwed in one of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/library/1/1045732/5520K173L.GIF (These are pretty handy in a lot of places) Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot Connection Hi After a bout of builder interruptus, I am back at it again and want to finish of my QB wings (not that there really is all that much to do!). Anyway, I have got a Gretz heated pitot and am stumped on the preferred way to connect the =BC=94 OD copper pitot tube on the Gretz to some plastic pitot tubing. I have seen one site where some plastic tubing was used to make a connection. I also see that www.safeair1.com <http://www.safeair1.com/> has a connector but is with hardware for aluminum. To those who have gone before have any suggestions? Cheers Les Kearney #40643 ' some assembly required href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avi gator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


October 12, 2008 - November 02, 2008

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