RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dx

December 08, 2008 - December 29, 2008



      
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Andair Valve Installation
f Carpenter -I'm installing my Andair Valve under a plate at the top of the tunnel...essentially the same location as Vans i ntended for their valve except flush tothe tunnel cover.- I'm routing the scat tube under the valve and between thefuel lines.- I'll cut a hole in the tunnel cover to the size of theIndicator Plate so the cover can be rem oved without disturbing the valve. -For those with a similar installation (I think Deems may be one), what type ofscrew are you using to attach the Indicator Plate, through the mounting plateand valve and into the K1000-3 n utplates?- Do you have a spec to save me somehunting around? -Jeff Carp enter40304I think I've just started that 90% done 90% to go construction ph ase - - - -=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Andair Valve Installation
Date: Dec 08, 2008
you might consider segmenting the tunnel cover; it makes it very easy to inspect beneath without a lot of disassembly _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 9:01 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valve Installation Don, That application looks really nice! If you have any more of those metal cups you can use them to hold your beer. We cut up an Cleveland wheel disk that was hanging around and mounted the valve in the center of the cup. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 6:18 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Valve Installation Here's what I did... and we made enough pieces to weld up 10. I finished the install, and it looks great. Routing of the scat was easy. Used Van's bridge to support a connector. Will take pics tomorrow. Don McDonald #40536 --- On Mon, 12/8/08, Jeff Carpenter wrote: From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valve Installation Date: Monday, December 8, 2008, 5:20 PM I'm installing my Andair Valve under a plate at the top of the tunnel... essentially the same location as Vans intended for their valve except flush to the tunnel cover. I'm routing the scat tube under the valve and between the fuel lines. I'll cut a hole in the tunnel cover to the size of the Indicator Plate so the cover can be removed without disturbing the valve. For those with a similar installation (I think Deems may be one), what type of screw are you using to attach the Indicator Plate, through the mounting plate and valve and into the K1000-3 nutplates? Do you have a spec to save me some hunting around? Jeff Carpenter 40304 I think I've just started that 90% done 90% to go construction phase ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Subject: RV-10 Plan revision on Van's website
To All: For those who have not seen it yet, there is a revisions to the plans Manual Section: 31Q Pages: 4, 9, 10 Date Posted 12/08/08 Dave Syvertson 40625 Almost ready for finishing kit **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis Palmenteri ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a conservative figure of $125,000 for each one flying times the 166 that VAN shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database, that is one serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena. Many are a darned bit more valuable with even more economic clout. December 9th, 2008 with 6,000 flying RVs of all flavors "is an awesome accomplishment". Now if only a small fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it would be a wonderful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented. John Cox - KUAO #600 Congrats to Louis ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis Palmenteri ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. Some of the particulars include: dual buss dual batt dual alt 3 screen GRT HX GRT EIS (hidden) Garmin stack PS 9000 TT AP TT ADI My plan so far includes: Door open - 2 lights Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light That's 5 lights Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for it. I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. Thanks Bill "building a panel" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
John, I'm pretty sure there were upwards of 1400 comments before the original September deadline, and surely more since. I've heard that's a lot for a NPRM. You're right, it is a small fraction, but it also shows the passion we have for our "hobby"--as does the $100M+ (925 x $125K) worth of RV-10s that potentially exists. The ARC is meeting again in late January to review the comments. Get'm in! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 2:55 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a conservative figure of $125,000 for each one flying times the 166 that VAN shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database, that is one serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena. Many are a darned bit more valuable with even more economic clout. December 9th, 2008 with 6,000 flying RVs of all flavors "is an awesome accomplishment". Now if only a small fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it would be a wonderful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented. John Cox - KUAO #600 Congrats to Louis _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/cgener ous ; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic--> http://forums.matronics.com ============= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and Fuel Pump On. Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence the alarm. I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and negative triggered lamps! David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS HS www.n142ds.com On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver wrote: > > Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. > Some of the particulars include: > dual buss dual batt dual alt > 3 screen GRT HX > GRT EIS (hidden) > Garmin stack > PS 9000 > TT AP > TT ADI > > My plan so far includes: > Door open - 2 lights > Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss > I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light > That's 5 lights > Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes sense > to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs > > The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for > it. > > I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. > > Thanks > Bill "building a panel" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> $125,000, I think that is a little too conservative. At $138K basic, still need to finish paying for the prop and the FWF. Unless I put a LS3 engine in, can't see how I could make it much cheaper. Hmm, a complete Quick built kit is $50,000--you have an additional $88,000 in the plane and you DON'T yet have an engine or prop? You using gold rivets or is this military contractor math? William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 14:54:46 -0800From: johnwcox(at)pacificnw.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a conservative figure of $125,000 for each one flying times the 166 that VAN shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database, that is one serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena. Many are a darned bit more valuable with even more economic clout. > > December 9th, 2008 with 6,000 flying RVs of all flavors "is an awesome accomplishment". > > Now if only a small fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it would be a wonderful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented. > > John Cox - KUAO > #600 > > Congrats to Louis > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jeff CarpenterSent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
I used 5 indicator lights from Lancair. My lights are: "Master Caution" - This is connected to the GRT EIS which goes off if any of the parameters are exceeded (voltage, pressures, fuel, ect...) "Alternator Caution" - This is connected to the B&C Specialty controller "Door Ajar" - I have my doors connected to this one light. If one of the four proximity sensors is open the door ajar light is illuminated. "Left Fuel Low" and "Right Fuel Low" - these two are connected to the fuel guardian which are two sensors set at 5 gallons in the tank. Additionally, the Cheltons also have settings which have audible alerts if anything is exceeded. It will say "Check Engine" and then highlight the problem area. Hope that gives you some more information. Here is a picture of the 5 annunciators. http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/3587176_3q6DT#433807776_pKJhW-A-LB Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 9, 2008 4:48:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Indicator lights - what functions to include Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. Some of the particulars include: dual buss dual batt dual alt 3 screen GRT HX GRT EIS (hidden) Garmin stack PS 9000 TT AP TT ADI My plan so far includes: Door open - 2 lights Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light That's 5 lights Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for it. I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. Thanks Bill "building a panel" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Its the tungsten bucking bars. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 7:17 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 > $125,000, I think that is a little too conservative. At $138K basic, still need to finish paying for the prop and the FWF. Unless I put a LS3 engine in, can't see how I could make it much cheaper. Hmm, a complete Quick built kit is $50,000--you have an additional $88,000 in the plane and you DON'T yet have an engine or prop? You using gold rivets or is this military contractor math? William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 14:54:46 -0800From: johnwcox(at)pacificnw.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a conservative figure of $125,000 for each one flying times the 166 that VAN shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database, that is one serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena. Many are a darned bit more valuable with even more economic clout. > > December 9th, 2008 with 6,000 flying RVs of all flavors "is an awesome accomplishment". > > Now if only a small fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it would be a wonderful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented. > > John Cox - KUAO > #600 > > Congrats to Louis > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jeff CarpenterSent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 > Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/cgener ous ; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic--> http://forums.matronics.com============== __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3679 (20081209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3679 (20081209) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
the policy is not an NPRM it is a policy change and the request for comments was an FAA courtesy. As of the September date, I read posted less than 350 responses. But! every one is of value. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dave Saylor Sent: Tue 12/9/2008 4:15 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 John, I'm pretty sure there were upwards of 1400 comments before the original September deadline, and surely more since. I've heard that's a lot for a NPRM. You're right, it is a small fraction, but it also shows the passion we have for our "hobby"--as does the $100M+ (925 x $125K) worth of RV-10s that potentially exists. The ARC is meeting again in late January to review the comments. Get'm in! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 2:55 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a conservative figure of $125,000 for each one flying times the 166 that VAN shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database, that is one serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena. Many are a darned bit more valuable with even more economic clout. December 9th, 2008 with 6,000 flying RVs of all flavors "is an awesome accomplishment". Now if only a small fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it would be a wonderful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented. John Cox - KUAO #600 Congrats to Louis ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000 Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c generous ; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic --> http://forums.matronics.com ============= href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: F-18 crashes in San Diego and kills four on the ground.
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Pilot ejected=2C but the people on the ground had were killed. What does th e North Las Vegas airport manager have to say about this?? Couldn't help b ut think about the two incidences when I heard this news.JOhn G.Do NOt Arch ive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: A 10 Makes #6000
Date: Dec 09, 2008
No I got a special deal from the U.S Gov. on depleted uranium bucking bars. They give pilots half lives and keeps new builders buying kits. That's eco nomic stimulus.JOhn G.> From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.co m> Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000> Date: Tue=2C 9 Dec 2008 19:19: com>> > Its the tungsten bucking bars.> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis> Sent: Tuesday=2C December 09=2C 2008 7:17 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes # om>> >> $125=2C000=2C I think that is a little too conservative. At $138K b asic=2C still> need to finish paying for the prop and the FWF. Unless I put a LS3 engine> in=2C can't see how I could make it much cheaper.> > Hmm=2C a complete Quick built kit is $50=2C000--you have an additional $88=2C000> in the plane and you DON'T yet have an engine or prop? You using gold> riv ets or is this military contractor math?> > William> http://nerv10.com/wcur tis/ > > -------- Original Message -------->> >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000Date: Tue=2C 9 Dec 2008 14:54:46> -0800From: johnwcox@pacific nw.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com>> >> There have been 925 RV-10 kits sold from Aurora as of today. Using a> conservative figure of $125=2C000 for ea ch one flying times the 166 that VAN> shows on the website or the 175 that I have in my database=2C that is one> serious chuck of Economic Development money into the Amateur Built arena.> Many are a darned bit more valuable w ith even more economic clout.>> >> December 9th=2C 2008 with 6=2C000 flyin g RVs of all flavors "is an awesome> accomplishment".>> >> Now if only a s mall fraction would let the FAA know their feelings on the> new 51% rewrite before the "Final-final" deadline of next Monday hits it> would be a wonde rful world. Last count a little over 300 have commented.>> >> John Cox - KUAO>> #600>> >> Congrats to Louis>> >> >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com on behalf of Jeff> CarpenterSent: Tue 12/9/2008 1:57 PMTo: rv10 -list(at)matronics.comSubject:> RV10-List: A 10 Makes #6000>> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter> Vans hit #6000 today... and it belongs to Louis p=3B> -- Please Support Your Lists This Mo nth November is the Annual List Fund> Raiser. Click> href="http://www.ma tronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/cgener> ous =3B -Matt Dralle=2C List nbsp=3B - The RV10-List> Email Foru m> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni c-->> http://forums.matronics.com============== > > > > > > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus=2C vers ion of virus signature> database 3679 (20081209) __________> > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.> > > > > > __________ Information fro m ESET NOD32 Antivirus=2C version of virus signature> database 3679 (200812 09) __________> > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.> > > > ========================> _ ==================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: wiring kit
I found all but one of the switch-breakers in the wiring kit .... the missing one is the 20 amp landing light. Is it squirreled away in another bag somewhere??? Give me a hint??? There wasn't room in the plastic bag for another breaker/switch so ..... Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Add one for the CO detector you might add for fuel pumps and you could go for low fuel detectors br Werner MauleDriver wrote: > > Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my > panel. Some of the particulars include: > dual buss dual batt dual alt > 3 screen GRT HX > GRT EIS (hidden) > Garmin stack > PS 9000 > TT AP > TT ADI > > My plan so far includes: > Door open - 2 lights > Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss > I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light > That's 5 lights > Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes > sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs > > The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use > for it. > > I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. > > Thanks > Bill "building a panel" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Bill, I've got L&R door, main & aux low voltage, oil pressure (driven independent of the EIS), x-feed enabled, starter engaged, EFIS Warn. I have an array of 10 indicators and currently have the last 2 as fuel pump & pitot heat on. I am either going to change these to incorporate the ignition fail warning lights for the dual LSE ignition system (recent addition to the LSE website) or put a couple of LEDs near the starter switch. The starter engaged and EFIS warn could easily be eliminated and you wouldn't miss much. I created an array of 10 simply because it is above the radio stack and that made the width very close to the same and gave me some option of swapping for something more important in the future (like the LSE failure warnings). Bob N442PM flying MauleDriver wrote: > > Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my > panel. Some of the particulars include: > dual buss dual batt dual alt > 3 screen GRT HX > GRT EIS (hidden) > Garmin stack > PS 9000 > TT AP > TT ADI > > My plan so far includes: > Door open - 2 lights > Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss > I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light > That's 5 lights > Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes > sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs > > The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use > for it. > > I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. > > Thanks > Bill "building a panel" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time
Just got to looking at parts used in elevators and tailcone. I know that Cleaveland Tools carries some of Rivethead's parts(or equivalent?). Ditto steve at iflyrv10.com Any recent experience with how quickly Rivethead ships? Would like to get all the trim cable attach pieces and F-1012D and F-1011D. Current recommendations? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire. What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of conditions? Thanks. (I love this list-server) David Schaefer wrote: > I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning > (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter > engaged and Fuel Pump On. > > Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence > the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to > silence the alarm. > > I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that > allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and > negative triggered lamps! > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT > EFIS HS > www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com> > > > On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver > wrote: > > > > > Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my > panel. Some of the particulars include: > dual buss dual batt dual alt > 3 screen GRT HX > GRT EIS (hidden) > Garmin stack > PS 9000 > TT AP > TT ADI > > My plan so far includes: > Door open - 2 lights > Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss > I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light > That's 5 lights > Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it > makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs > > The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a > use for it. > > I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. > > Thanks > Bill "building a panel" Watson > > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Scott, I have been unable to view your pics for awhile on smugmug. Perhaps I need to join or something. Thanks Scott Schmidt wrote: > I used 5 indicator lights from Lancair. > > My lights are: > "Master Caution" - This is connected to the GRT EIS which goes off if > any of the parameters are exceeded (voltage, pressures, fuel, ect...) > "Alternator Caution" - This is connected to the B&C Specialty controller > "Door Ajar" - I have my doors connected to this one light. If one of > the four proximity sensors is open the door ajar light is illuminated. > "Left Fuel Low" and "Right Fuel Low" - these two are connected to the > fuel guardian which are two sensors set at 5 gallons in the tank. > > Additionally, the Cheltons also have settings which have audible > alerts if anything is exceeded. It will say "Check Engine" and then > highlight the problem area. > Hope that gives you some more information. > > Here is a picture of the 5 annunciators. > http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/3587176_3q6DT#433807776_pKJhW-A-LB > > Scott Schmidt > scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* MauleDriver > *To:* RV10-List Digest Server > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 9, 2008 4:48:26 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Indicator lights - what functions to include > > > > > Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my > panel. Some of the particulars include: > dual buss dual batt dual alt > 3 screen GRT HX > GRT EIS (hidden) > Garmin stack > PS 9000 > TT AP > TT ADI > > My plan so far includes: > Door open - 2 lights > Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss > I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light > That's 5 lights > Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes > sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs > > The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use > for it. > > I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. > > Thanks > Bill "building a panel" > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Subject: F-18 crashes in San Diego and kills four on the ground.
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From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Subject: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time
I seemed to be one of the lucky ones and got my parts within a few weeks of ordering them. That being said, if there was another option at the time like there is now, there wouldn't have been a snowballs chance in hades I would have got anything from them given the problems others have had. Now guys like Steve have stepped up and are offering almost all the same things so I see no reason to patronize Rivethead anymore. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time Just got to looking at parts used in elevators and tailcone. I know that Cleaveland Tools carries some of Rivethead's parts(or equivalent?). Ditto steve at iflyrv10.com Any recent experience with how quickly Rivethead ships? Would like to get all the trim cable attach pieces and F-1012D and F-1011D. Current recommendations? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time / Vendor report
Date: Dec 10, 2008
I cant help to think that Steven (iflyrv10.com) donated/auctioned a great set of door handles with proceeds going to the RV-10 coordinators at OSH last summer, has been great in providing quick response and product to those that buy things from him, yet I still sometimes see many buying things from a reliably poor source that consistently received poor responses from builders for their lack of follow through. With that example in place I propose there be a site that would allow builders to reference for places to go and avoid. Maybe I can request Tim to have a Vendor recommended list on his site since he gets so many hits and his site is the go to for RV-10 related information. This would allow many to benefit by going right to the source versus needing to search for a good place to buy things. Names like Steinair, Stark, come to mind as places to consider for avionics/panel, many more but I forget who they were the list would be that place to reference. I am designing and building my rear seats from ground up and will do my own work, hence I determined to build the rear seats with confor foam, as Oregon Aero, Classic Aero and Van's sells as the rear seat foam. If anyone is looking to do the same for far less I can recommend "KCH Enterprises Inc" as being an excellent source for the foam. They have good prices on the foam, excellent customer statuses with when it will ship (1-2 days') fed-ex shipping information, if it's delayed when it will ship with the option to cancel or return the merchandise if at all unhappy, etc.. I can also recommend a wire place (wiremasters.com) for excellent pricing and support (even got a Christmas card last year from the sales contact).. Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Bill, I've also got my EIS buried. To eliminate its warnings all you have to do is to set its limits to zero and set the "real" limits to whatever values are appropriate on the EFIS. With the EIS buried you wind up having the access it for the initial setup and then again as you calibrate the fuel flow settings. Fuel tank level sender calibration is better done in the EFIS. The EFIS Warning output is redundant with messages that you'll get on the EFIS itself. If you're trying to reduce annunciators that's probably the least useful of all. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 10:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Indicator lights - what functions to include I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire. What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of conditions? Thanks. (I love this list-server) David Schaefer wrote: I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and Fuel Pump On. Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence the alarm. I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and negative triggered lamps! David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS HS www.n142ds.com On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver wrote: Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. Some of the particulars include: dual buss dual batt dual alt 3 screen GRT HX GRT EIS (hidden) Garmin stack PS 9000 TT AP TT ADI My plan so far includes: Door open - 2 lights Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light That's 5 lights Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for it. I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. Thanks Bill "building a panel" Watson href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c o ntribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time / Vendor report
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Steve (iflyrv10.com) would be my absolute first choice for the parts that he makes. Only issue is that he doesn't make the full selection (like brackets and elevator trim attach pieces) but would probably consider doing so if there were requests. He has also been a great supporter of the RV-10 builder community including a generous donation to the RV-10 OSH HQ fund last year. I've also had experiences with Rivethead Aero that were not positive but there's no point in going into the details. Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 10:47 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time / Vendor report I cant help to think that Steven (iflyrv10.com) donated/auctioned a great set of door handles with proceeds going to the RV-10 coordinators at OSH last summer, has been great in providing quick response and product to those that buy things from him, yet I still sometimes see many buying things from a reliably poor source that consistently received poor responses from builders for their lack of follow through. With that example in place I propose there be a site that would allow builders to reference for places to go and avoid. Maybe I can request Tim to have a Vendor recommended list on his site since he gets so many hits and his site is the go to for RV-10 related information. This would allow many to benefit by going right to the source versus needing to search for a good place to buy things. Names like Steinair, Stark, come to mind as places to consider for avionics/panel, many more but I forget who they were the list would be that place to reference. I am designing and building my rear seats from ground up and will do my own work, hence I determined to build the rear seats with confor foam, as Oregon Aero, Classic Aero and Van's sells as the rear seat foam. If anyone is looking to do the same for far less I can recommend "KCH Enterprises Inc" as being an excellent source for the foam. They have good prices on the foam, excellent customer statuses with when it will ship (1-2 days') fed-ex shipping information, if it's delayed when it will ship with the option to cancel or return the merchandise if at all unhappy, etc.. I can also recommend a wire place (wiremasters.com) for excellent pricing and support (even got a Christmas card last year from the sales contact).. Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time
/ Vendor report)
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Does anybody have any documented pictures/ instructions on installing the billet trim cable brackets with screws instead of rivets for later removal??? Not sure if there's room for nutplates on the back of the billet brackets. Thanks, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: pascal To: rv10-list Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 10:47 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivethead Aero Parts-Lead time / Vendor report I cant help to think that Steven (iflyrv10.com) donated/auctioned a great set of door handles with proceeds going to the RV-10 coordinators at OSH last summer, has been great in providing quick response and product to those that buy things from him, yet I still sometimes see many buying things from a reliably poor source that consistently received poor responses from builders for their lack of follow through. With that example in place I propose there be a site that would allow builders to reference for places to go and avoid. Maybe I can request Tim to have a Vendor recommended list on his site since he gets so many hits and his site is the go to for RV-10 related information. This would allow many to benefit by going right to the source versus needing to search for a good place to buy things. Names like Steinair, Stark, come to mind as places to consider for avionics/panel, many more but I forget who they were the list would be that place to reference. I am designing and building my rear seats from ground up and will do my own work, hence I determined to build the rear seats with confor foam, as Oregon Aero, Classic Aero and Van's sells as the rear seat foam. If anyone is looking to do the same for far less I can recommend "KCH Enterprises Inc" as being an excellent source for the foam. They have good prices on the foam, excellent customer statuses with when it will ship (1-2 days') fed-ex shipping information, if it's delayed when it will ship with the option to cancel or return the merchandise if at all unhappy, etc.. I can also recommend a wire place (wiremasters.com) for excellent pricing and support (even got a Christmas card last year from the sales contact).. Pascal ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 12/10/2008 9:30 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Billet Cable brackets
Bill I found a couple pics to explain how I attached mine to the plates. Link below. http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/December2008# There is enough slack in the cables to attach the locknuts. I read someone was able to attach nutplates to the brackets. Would be easier install that way. I don't remember the number for the nutplates but a number 6 size with the thread on the side would probably fit. Dr Fred N515 FW To paint shop Jan 1. 60 hrs now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Selector
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Dec 10, 2008
I have had fuel selector valves on my brain, and have a few questions. Why can't a low wing airplane draw from both tanks at once? To me if the fuel is available at the inlet of the pump it should draw from both, just as well as a high wing with gravity working for it. Probably something obvious I am missing.... Has anyone ever considered using an electrically activated fuel selector valve like the ones used in dual fuel tank trucks? Switching tanks would then just be the flip of a switch. I think the failure mode of this device would be to stay open on whichever tank is selected. I will admit, complicating something as critical as fuel management any more than is absolutely necessary does make me nervous. Just got stuck on my brain for some reason..... Any thoughts? Thanks, Jason Kreidler N44YH - #40617 Finishing - 4 Partner Build ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Fuel Selector
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Here is my opinion on why we can not have a "both" position....not enough pressure (short column of fuel) on the fuel line at the valve to insure balancing of fuel between the tanks. This could result in the "un-porting" of one of the lines. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 12:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Selector I have had fuel selector valves on my brain, and have a few questions. Why can't a low wing airplane draw from both tanks at once? To me if the fuel is available at the inlet of the pump it should draw from both, just as well as a high wing with gravity working for it. Probably something obvious I am missing.... Has anyone ever considered using an electrically activated fuel selector valve like the ones used in dual fuel tank trucks? Switching tanks would then just be the flip of a switch. I think the failure mode of this device would be to stay open on whichever tank is selected. I will admit, complicating something as critical as fuel management any more than is absolutely necessary does make me nervous. Just got stuck on my brain for some reason..... Any thoughts? Thanks, Jason Kreidler N44YH - #40617 Finishing - 4 Partner Build ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Sender Float Wire
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
I found out the hard way that the right sender wire isn't an exact mirror of the left. Has this happened to anyone else, and how did you get a new piece of shepard's hook wire? -------- RV-10 #40333 N540XP (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218730#218730 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuselage before wings?
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Thought I'd follow up on this thread I started about 3 weeks ago. Earlier this week I ordered the QB fuse before the wings. No issue from Vans. It did require purchasing the $1,300 Wing Center Section. But they're crediting it back to me when I purchase the QB wings. No big deal at all. It was easy. Phil "Hoping 3 months goes by quickly" Perry ________________________________ From: Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 4:32 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings? Thanks everyone for the responses. Brian: Did Vans work with you on the center wing carry through??? Thanks, Phil ________________________________ From: Douglas, Brian S [mailto:brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu] Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 2:18 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings? That's the route I took and for nearly the same reason. It seemed like I'd be done with the QB wings before I had time to save up for the fuselage kit. On the other hand, there's lots of stuff to keep you busy in the fuse kit while you save up for QB wings. -Brian Iowa City, IA #40497 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings? Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the wings? I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better option. If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase in a few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer period of time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time to recover. I could: 1) Finish the fuse kit. 2) Join it to the tail cone. 3) Fit the canopy area. 4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc. 5) Run wiring 6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc. The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better sense at this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on meaningful tasks, instead of burning time waiting for the economy to recover while your completed wings sit in the cradle. Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings??? Phil http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c h ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics . com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fuel Sender Float Wire
Date: Dec 10, 2008
CAll the company that made the unit and be really charming and sweet and ma ybe the nice lady with the hispanic last name will shine light on you=2C ta ke pity and send you a new wire. I succeeded in the above endevour. JOhn G. 409> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender Float Wire> From: jskirkland@w ebpipe.net> Date: Wed=2C 10 Dec 2008 12:11:24 -0800> To: rv10-list@matronic pe.net>> > I found out the hard way that the right sender wire isn't an exa ct mirror of the left. Has this happened to anyone else=2C and how did you get a new piece of shepard's hook wire?> > --------> RV-10 #40333> N540XP ( reserved)> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics. =====> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Fuel Selector
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Jason, I can't speak with authority on why not both tanks at once, but I would suspect you would still need a left/right only option as you will most certainly get a fuel imbalance over time due to a number of factors. I would be very hesitant to use an electric fuel valve, even if it does stay on one tank when failed, you may not realize you've lost control of the valve until you really need the fuel out of the other tank. Marcus From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 1:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Selector I have had fuel selector valves on my brain, and have a few questions. Why can't a low wing airplane draw from both tanks at once? To me if the fuel is available at the inlet of the pump it should draw from both, just as well as a high wing with gravity working for it. Probably something obvious I am missing.... Has anyone ever considered using an electrically activated fuel selector valve like the ones used in dual fuel tank trucks? Switching tanks would then just be the flip of a switch. I think the failure mode of this device would be to stay open on whichever tank is selected. I will admit, complicating something as critical as fuel management any more than is absolutely necessary does make me nervous. Just got stuck on my brain for some reason..... Any thoughts? Thanks, Jason Kreidler N44YH - #40617 Finishing - 4 Partner Build ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
Date: Dec 10, 2008
One of the issues regarding a "both" position for a fuel selector value on a low wing plane is as follows: When a tank is low, and you turn in that direction you risk unporting that fuel pick up tube, with the selector set on both it will not draw from the tank that has its pick up tube nicely bathed in fuel. As an experiment try this, put two drinking straws in your mouth and drink some water out of two cups, pull one straw out of one of the cups of water while leaving the other straw submerged and try to suck on both straws, you'll get nothing but air, no water: that's how your engine would feel :( -bob newman ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene Felker To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 2:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Selector Here is my opinion on why we can not have a "both" position....not enough pressure (short column of fuel) on the fuel line at the valve to insure balancing of fuel between the tanks. This could result in the "un-porting" of one of the lines. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 12:15 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Selector I have had fuel selector valves on my brain, and have a few questions. Why can't a low wing airplane draw from both tanks at once? To me if the fuel is available at the inlet of the pump it should draw from both, just as well as a high wing with gravity working for it. Probably something obvious I am missing.... Has anyone ever considered using an electrically activated fuel selector valve like the ones used in dual fuel tank trucks? Switching tanks would then just be the flip of a switch. I think the failure mode of this device would be to stay open on whichever tank is selected. I will admit, complicating something as critical as fuel management any more than is absolutely necessary does make me nervous. Just got stuck on my brain for some reason..... Any thoughts? Thanks, Jason Kreidler N44YH - #40617 Finishing - 4 Partner Build http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Bob, that makes sense.... Following that theory I have attached a picture of an experimental apparatus showing why I believe high wing aircraft are allowed to have a 'both' selection. Thanks, Jason Kreidler [quote="rnewman(at)tcwtech.com"]One of the issues regarding a "both" position for a fuel selector value on a low wing plane is as follows: When a tank is low, and you turn in that direction you risk unporting that fuel pick up tube, with the selector set on both it will not draw from the tank that has its pick up tube nicely bathed in fuel. As an experiment try this, put two drinking straws in your mouth and drink some water out of two cups, pull one straw out of one of the cups of water while leaving the other straw submerged and try to suck on both straws, you'll get nothing but air, no water: that's how your engine would feel :( -bob newman > --- -------- RV-10 Quick Build 4 Partner Build - Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218790#218790 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/thirst4_176.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
Bob-tcw wrote: > One of the issues regarding a "both" position for a fuel selector > value on a low wing plane is as follows: > When a tank is low, and you turn in that direction you risk unporting > that fuel pick up tube, with the selector set on both it will not draw > from the tank that has its pick up tube nicely bathed in fuel. As an > experiment try this, put two drinking straws in your mouth and drink > some water out of two cups, pull one straw out of one of the cups of > water while leaving the other straw submerged and try to suck on both > straws, you'll get nothing but air, no water: that's how your > engine would feel :( > > > -bob newman > I'm not so sure ..... but I don't want to be a test pilot!!! The straw test fails because it isn't like our fuel system at all. Consider this: I think we all agree that there's no problem in level flight. In a truly coordinated turn there would be no difference from a level flight condition due to the dihedral. In a slipping turn if there's enough 'force' to cause the 'low' tank fuel to move toward the tip, then the 'high' side has the same force and would (in the absence of engine fuel flow) have head pressure and would tend to drain toward the low tank. The reverse would also be true. As long as the engine doesn't suck more fuel than would flow, then the 'low' port wouldn't 'unport'. At least that's my reasoning. Show me where I went wrong! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 2001
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
Sorry for the multiple posts .... clock screwed up again and I didn't catch it! See below. Linn Bob-tcw wrote: > One of the issues regarding a "both" position for a fuel selector > value on a low wing plane is as follows: > When a tank is low, and you turn in that direction you risk unporting > that fuel pick up tube, with the selector set on both it will not draw > from the tank that has its pick up tube nicely bathed in fuel. As an > experiment try this, put two drinking straws in your mouth and drink > some water out of two cups, pull one straw out of one of the cups of > water while leaving the other straw submerged and try to suck on both > straws, you'll get nothing but air, no water: that's how your > engine would feel :( > > > -bob newman > I'm not so sure ..... but I don't want to be a test pilot!!! The straw test fails because it isn't like our fuel system at all. Consider this: I think we all agree that there's no problem in level flight. In a truly coordinated turn there would be no difference from a level flight condition due to the dihedral. In a slipping turn if there's enough 'force' to cause the 'low' tank fuel to move toward the tip, then the 'high' side has the same force and would (in the absence of engine fuel flow) have head pressure and would tend to drain toward the low tank. The reverse would also be true. As long as the engine doesn't suck more fuel than would flow, then the 'low' port wouldn't 'unport'. At least that's my reasoning. Show me where I went wrong! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender Float Wire
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: efdsteve(at)aol.com
Lucky you.? I think I paid $5 to Van's for a new one.? Why is it sometimes that the plans don't become crystal clear until you've screwed something up? Steve W. 40230 -----Original Message----- From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Sent: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 3:28 pm Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Sender Float Wire CAll the company that made the unit and be really charming and sweet and maybe the nice lady with the hispanic last name will shine light on you, take pity and send you a new wire. ? I succeeded in the above endevour. ? JOhn G. 409 > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender Float Wire > From: jskirkland(at)webpipe.net > Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:11:24 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I found out the hard way that the right sender wire isn't an exact mirror of the left. Has this happened to anyone else, and how did you get a new piece of shepard's hook wire? > > -------- > RV-10 #40333 > N540XP (reserved) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218730#218730 > > > > > > >====================== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Fuel Selector
Date: Dec 11, 2008
I once was doing a very aggressive slip in my RV-9A trying to show my wife something one the ground on my side of the plane while sucking gas out of the left tank. Suddenly, the loudest no-sound I ever heard when everything was quite. Wings level, switch tanks, boost on, the fan started up. My wife said, "Don't EVER do that again!" I'm leaving my valve as Left/Right/Off. As far as I'm concerned, this wheel has been invented. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters I'm not so sure ..... but I don't want to be a test pilot!!! The straw test fails because it isn't like our fuel system at all. Consider this: I think we all agree that there's no problem in level flight. In a truly coordinated turn there would be no difference from a level flight condition due to the dihedral. In a slipping turn if there's enough 'force' to cause the 'low' tank fuel to move toward the tip, then the 'high' side has the same force and would (in the absence of engine fuel flow) have head pressure and would tend to drain toward the low tank. The reverse would also be true. As long as the engine doesn't suck more fuel than would flow, then the 'low' port wouldn't 'unport'. At least that's my reasoning. Show me where I went wrong! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Nearly the only thing that determines how hard a pump has to suck to get fuel is the difference in height between the outlet of the tank and the inlet of the engine. The lowest intake fuel port determines this number, not the number of lines. Rick, there is nothing complicated at all about Left - Right - Off. That is why there has never been a pile of aluminum laying on the ground with one empty tank of fuel, and one not so empty tank of fuel adding to the fire. Please remind those families that there is nothing complicated about Left - Right - Off. The point of my question was simply to ask why it is done this way in low wing aircraft; I know there must be some reason I am missing, which Bob, Linn, and Albert helped me understand. I for one will never stop asking why things are done the way they are. I am happy to know that your airplane has been built 100% per plans, you are a flawless robot of a pilot, and are at no risk of making me have to fight for my right to fly out of my field. Mistakes happen, there are defects in material and workmanship, and sometimes luck just isn't on our sides. Fortunately we have places like this to ask simple questions like these to help us understand why. Your absolutely right, the wheel is perfect, that is why I can't figure out why we ever invented wooden wheels, rubber wheels, then wheels filled with air, the stone wheel was perfect, it rolled just fine. If it ain't broke don't fix it, I get it, but I need to understand how and why. Sorry..... Thanks, Jason ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Selector
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
You can tie the tanks together with a transfer pump and timer. Requires one extra hole in your left tank unless you are already returning fuel back to the tank anyway. The cooling loop through the right tank is not needed with avgas. Bobby 40116 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 1:15 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Selector I have had fuel selector valves on my brain, and have a few questions. Why can't a low wing airplane draw from both tanks at once? To me if the fuel is available at the inlet of the pump it should draw from both, just as well as a high wing with gravity working for it. Probably something obvious I am missing.... Has anyone ever considered using an electrically activated fuel selector valve like the ones used in dual fuel tank trucks? Switching tanks would then just be the flip of a switch. I think the failure mode of this device would be to stay open on whichever tank is selected. I will admit, complicating something as critical as fuel management any more than is absolutely necessary does make me nervous. Just got stuck on my brain for some reason..... Any thoughts? Thanks, Jason Kreidler N44YH - #40617 Finishing - 4 Partner Build ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Selector
Well, that blows my theory. Thanks Albert, for being our test pilot!!! ;-) Linn .... hopefully with correct clock!!! Albert Gardner wrote: > > I once was doing a very aggressive slip in my RV-9A trying to show my wife > something one the ground on my side of the plane while sucking gas out of > the left tank. Suddenly, the loudest no-sound I ever heard when everything > was quite. Wings level, switch tanks, boost on, the fan started up. My wife > said, "Don't EVER do that again!" I'm leaving my valve as Left/Right/Off. As > far as I'm concerned, this wheel has been invented. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters > I'm not so sure ..... but I don't want to be a test pilot!!! The straw > test fails because it isn't like our fuel system at all. Consider > this: I think we all agree that there's no problem in level flight. In > a truly coordinated turn there would be no difference from a level > flight condition due to the dihedral. In a slipping turn if there's > enough 'force' to cause the 'low' tank fuel to move toward the tip, then > the 'high' side has the same force and would (in the absence of engine > fuel flow) have head pressure and would tend to drain toward the low > tank. The reverse would also be true. As long as the engine doesn't > suck more fuel than would flow, then the 'low' port wouldn't 'unport'. > At least that's my reasoning. Show me where I went wrong! > Linn > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender Float Wire
Hmm, I'm getting close to starting said trim tabs. Any enlightenment on how I can mis-re-read the plans so I can become a charter member of this do-over until get it right club? (yes, I've already been through the initiation ceremony). Kelly On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:48 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I made a total of three right trim tabs. > Plans don't become crystal clear until we screw up because we believe what > we want to believe, we believe what we think to be true and not necessarily > what is. > It happens with more than following aircraft plans. > John Socrates 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Trim Tab errors?
Re-sent to have correct subject. Hmm, I'm getting close to starting said trim tabs. Any enlightenment on how I can mis-re-read the plans so I can become a charter member of this do-over until get it right club? (yes, I've already been through the initiation ceremony). Kelly On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:48 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I made a total of three right trim tabs. > Plans don't become crystal clear until we screw up because we believe what > we want to believe, we believe what we think to be true and not necessarily > what is. > It happens with more than following aircraft plans. > John Socrates 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trim Tab errors?
I made three trim tabs, the first was awful and I ordered another skin, the second was OK and the third try as they say was the charm. If I were to build them again I would build a mini rib for the ends and screw bending them. I think the real key to a good bend is making your blocks out of a good piece of hardwood and clamping them very tight so there is no way they can slip. After doing all the fiberglass stuff a composite rib for the end would be a piece of cake. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:46:11 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab errors? Re-sent to have correct subject. Hmm, I'm getting close to starting said trim tabs. Any enlightenment on how I can mis-re-read the plans so I can become a charter member of this do-over until get it right club? (yes, I've already been through the initiation ceremony). Kelly On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:48 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I made a total of three right trim tabs. > Plans don't become crystal clear until we screw up because we believe what > we want to believe, we believe what we think to be true and not necessarily > what is. > It happens with more than following aircraft plans. > John Socrates 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wiring kit
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Mine came all in one bag. Call Vans to report the shortage. -------- RV-10 #40333 N540XP (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218951#218951 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Engine mounting ear nut torque
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Checked the archives with no luck, can't seem to find any info in engine documentation, therefore does anybody know the torque required for the nuts which hold the ears on the IO-540-D4A5 ? Its a 3/8 stud so does the usual torque number apply? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles etc. That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. However ANY warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front buttons on the EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago with a remote line out the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes back to GRT for this addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's just one wire sticking out the back of the EIS. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver wrote: > I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there > closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully > configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire. > > What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable > feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of > conditions? > > Thanks. > (I love this list-server) > > David Schaefer wrote: > > I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil > pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and > Fuel Pump On. > > Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the EIS > warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence the > alarm. > > I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that > allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and > negative triggered lamps! > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS > HS > www.n142ds.com > > > On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver wrote: > >> >> Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. >> Some of the particulars include: >> dual buss dual batt dual alt >> 3 screen GRT HX >> GRT EIS (hidden) >> Garmin stack >> PS 9000 >> TT AP >> TT ADI >> >> My plan so far includes: >> Door open - 2 lights >> Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss >> I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light >> That's 5 lights >> Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes >> sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs >> >> The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for >> it. >> >> I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. >> >> Thanks >> Bill "building a panel" Watson >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim Tab errors?
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
You might try bending them as closely as possible and then making them perfect with a dab or swipe of superfil and a little sanding/shaping. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219028#219028 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuselage before wings?
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
I am doing the fuselage first and it has worked out fine so far. One of my concerns was simply storing the wings during the much longer fuselage build, and dealing with spiders, rodents, moisture, et-cetera. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219030#219030 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so that it doesn't issue any warnings? If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured into there system. Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they require an external indicator light/audio signal? Thanks David Schaefer wrote: > The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles > etc. That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. > However ANY warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front > buttons on the EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago > with a remote line out the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes > back to GRT for this addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's > just one wire sticking out the back of the EIS. > > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS > www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com> > > > On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver > wrote: > > I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation > there closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS > and hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have > to look for that wire. > > What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully > configurable feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used > for a variety of conditions? > > Thanks. > (I love this list-server) > > David Schaefer wrote: >> I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS >> warning (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed >> engaged, Starter engaged and Fuel Pump On. >> >> Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to >> silence the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not >> available to silence the alarm. >> >> I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system >> that allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both >> positive and negative triggered lamps! >> >> David W. Schaefer >> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" >> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, >> GRT EFIS HS >> www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com> >> >> >> On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver >> > wrote: >> >> > >> >> Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights >> on my panel. Some of the particulars include: >> dual buss dual batt dual alt >> 3 screen GRT HX >> GRT EIS (hidden) >> Garmin stack >> PS 9000 >> TT AP >> TT ADI >> >> My plan so far includes: >> Door open - 2 lights >> Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss >> I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light >> That's 5 lights >> Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking >> it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs >> >> The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure >> out a use for it. >> >> I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. >> >> Thanks >> Bill "building a panel" Watson >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> * > > * > > * > > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
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Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Yes, this is possible. However, the recommended approach is to have only ONE warning set on EIS -- Low Oil Pressure. Nothing else (set limits to 0 so they don't generate warnings). All other warnings and limits should be programmed into the EFIS itself. In this case, you would not need any remote ACK button for EIS -- low oil pressure is not a warning that you dismiss with a button anyways :) You want this limit in EIS since it "boots up" instantly, whereas EFIS can take 20-30 seconds to boot up upon engine start.. I'd also recommend a warning light from EIS -- and if set up like this, you can even label it "low oil presure." From my experience, you do not need a "master warning" from EFIS... messages on the screen provide enough of "distraction" to catch your eye. Just to clarify a possible misunderstanding that was mentioned in this thread -- engine limits programmed on the EFIS itself are NOT generated by the EIS, hence do not need to be acknowledged/dismissed on EIS.. so you do not need a remote ack button. HTH Radomir RV-7A N777TY MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote: > Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so that it doesn't issue any warnings? > > If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured into there system. > > Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they require an external indicator light/audio signal? > > Thanks > > -------- RV-7A N777TY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219054#219054 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Sure .. don't set any alarms in the EIS. However the low oil pressure alarm is very nice for alerting before the EFIS comes completely to life. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 6:15 AM, MauleDriver wrote: > Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so > that it doesn't issue any warnings? > > If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured > into there system. > > Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they > require an external indicator light/audio signal? > > Thanks > > > David Schaefer wrote: > > The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles etc. > That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. However ANY > warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front buttons on the > EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago with a remote line out > the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes back to GRT for this > addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's just one wire sticking out > the back of the EIS. > > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS > www.n142ds.com > > > On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver wrote: > >> I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there >> closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully >> configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire. >> >> What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable >> feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of >> conditions? >> >> Thanks. >> (I love this list-server) >> >> David Schaefer wrote: >> >> I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil >> pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and >> Fuel Pump On. >> >> Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the >> EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence >> the alarm. >> >> I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that >> allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and >> negative triggered lamps! >> >> David W. Schaefer >> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" >> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS >> HS >> www.n142ds.com >> >> >> On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver wrote: >> >>> >>> Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. >>> Some of the particulars include: >>> dual buss dual batt dual alt >>> 3 screen GRT HX >>> GRT EIS (hidden) >>> Garmin stack >>> PS 9000 >>> TT AP >>> TT ADI >>> >>> My plan so far includes: >>> Door open - 2 lights >>> Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss >>> I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light >>> That's 5 lights >>> Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes >>> sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs >>> >>> The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use >>> for it. >>> >>> I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bill "building a panel" Watson >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* >> >> >> * >> * >> >> > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: fly droppings
Date: Dec 12, 2008
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons. Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing??? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Other option for oil pressure is to add a simple pressure switch (in addition to the EIS pressure sensor) on the manifold and have it drive the light which works rrespective of the status of the EIS. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:10 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Indicator lights - what functions to include Sure .. don't set any alarms in the EIS. However the low oil pressure alarm is very nice for alerting before the EFIS comes completely to life. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 6:15 AM, MauleDriver wrote: Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so that it doesn't issue any warnings? If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured into there system. Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they require an external indicator light/audio signal? Thanks David Schaefer wrote: The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles etc. That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. However ANY warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front buttons on the EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago with a remote line out the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes back to GRT for this addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's just one wire sticking out the back of the EIS. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver wrote: I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire. What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of conditions? Thanks. (I love this list-server) David Schaefer wrote: I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and Fuel Pump On. Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence the alarm. I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and negative triggered lamps! David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS HS www.n142ds.com On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver wrote: Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel. Some of the particulars include: dual buss dual batt dual alt 3 screen GRT HX GRT EIS (hidden) Garmin stack PS 9000 TT AP TT ADI My plan so far includes: Door open - 2 lights Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light That's 5 lights Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use for it. I would love to hear what others are doing or planning. Thanks Bill "building a panel" Watson href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c o ntribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c o ntribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
From: "DejaVu" <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net>
To summarize the various responses: Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that system. Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is no longer there. Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the EIS remote button. > > Yes, this is possible. However, the recommended approach is to have only > ONE warning set on EIS -- Low Oil Pressure. Nothing else (set limits to 0 > so they don't generate warnings). All other warnings and limits should be > programmed into the EFIS itself. > > In this case, you would not need any remote ACK button for EIS -- low oil > pressure is not a warning that you dismiss with a button anyways :) You > want this limit in EIS since it "boots up" instantly, whereas EFIS can > take 20-30 seconds to boot up upon engine start.. I'd also recommend a > warning light from EIS -- and if set up like this, you can even label it > "low oil presure." From my experience, you do not need a "master warning" > from EFIS... messages on the screen provide enough of "distraction" to > catch your eye. > > Just to clarify a possible misunderstanding that was mentioned in this > thread -- engine limits programmed on the EFIS itself are NOT generated by > the EIS, hence do not need to be acknowledged/dismissed on EIS.. so you do > not need a remote ack button. > > > HTH > Radomir > RV-7A N777TY > > > MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote: >> Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so >> that it doesn't issue any warnings? >> >> If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire >> configured into there system. >> >> Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they >> require an external indicator light/audio signal? >> >> Thanks >> >> > > > -------- > RV-7A > N777TY > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219054#219054 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fly droppings
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Did they etch the aluminum or are they just glued to the surface really well? Phil ________________________________ From: Bill Britton [mailto:william(at)gbta.net] Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons. Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing??? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: fly droppings
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Bill Try MEK that will not harm the alum. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Britton Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons. Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing??? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: fly droppings
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Try a small amount of metal polish like "Flitz" or even an auto paint polish. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Britton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:10 AM Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons. Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing??? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: fly droppings
Date: Dec 12, 2008
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Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fly droppings
=0AMore info on the web about this. This is a serious problem and should p robably take precedence over the auto-makers bail out plan. =0A=0AScott Sch midt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________________ _____=0AFrom: Bill Britton <william(at)gbta.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:31 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings=0A=0A =0AWell, water and a little soap did the trick. =0ANot su re why I didn't ever try it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope =0Athere's not any acids left that will cause problems down the road but I will be =0Asure to mention it to whomever ends up painting the plane. Rest assured , I =0Awill not let it happen again. By the way I did consider the wet =0A towel. It was my next move if the warm water didn't work.=0A =0ANow, as lo ng as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell =0Ame that dawn dish soap eats alum inum, I feel better.=0A =0AThanks again,=0ABill=0A----- Original Message -- --- =0AFrom: John Cox =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, Dece mber 12, 2008 12:53 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings=0A=0AOrgan ics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my fibergla ss boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious amounts of water made a difference. =0A =0AOn vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed the white vinyl color.=0A =0AOn aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts seemed to be slightly better p rotected. The copious water flush can remove the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater can lead to primer and topcoat separation i n extreme cases. Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one course of cleaning. Polishing compound which removes the acids and pitted metal in the crater is anothe r. Alclad is the substrate we are talking about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and humid locations along with the air. All of us should be able to visually determine when the pure aluminum is gone and we are down to t he base metal (with copper alloy). It is also good to know just how shall ow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of builders scotchbrite away si mple abrasions (during the course of a build) and with it goes the pure ox idized aluminum protection. Months later, the goal is to prep some more A lclad in the topcoat process which was already down to minimums.=0A =0ACessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and little separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned out the aircraft were parked overnight during the s ummer awaiting Topcoat. The higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights of insects at night, left a mark which did not show till years later in the paint. That all took place with standard preparation proced ures not looking for organic trails.=0A =0AYour topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to warrant his craftsmanship. Be sure and menti on the issue in writing so as to share the journey.=0A =0AFor the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless hours of cleanup and du st abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill=85. good luck.=0A =0AGood luc k.=0A =0AJohn Cox - KUAO=0A =0Ado not archive=0A =0AFrom:owner-rv10-list- server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Beha lf Of Perry, Phil=0ASent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM=0ATo: rv10-li st(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings=0A =0AHey Bill, =0A =0AI was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try. =0A =0AGet a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on the surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften it up enough to wipe off.=0A =0ASounds like we need to be using fly poop in stead of flox! :)=0A =0APhil=0A =0A =0A=0A_______________________________ _=0A =0AFrom:Bill Britton [mailto:william(at)gbta.net] =0ASent: Friday, Decem ber 12, 2008 11:55 AM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Li st: fly droppings=0AYeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen, but I did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked i f it etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get ri d of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what happens. =0A =0AWhile on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wra p on my finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any in put on doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or no t (moisture wise--good or bad).=0A =0AThanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep. where's the best place to get a litt le bit of it???=0A =0ABill=0AOn Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wro te:=0A=0A=0AMy project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say t he least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the w hole thing down for several reasons.=0A =0ADoes anybody know of a quick ea sy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing???=0A =0ABill=0Aht tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.matro nics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matroni cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A=0A_____ ___________________________=0A - =0A270.9.17/1844 - Release Date: 12/11/20 =========0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Push Rod Height in Tunnel
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Hi All, I'm planning on mounting my two Comant Bent Whip Comm Antennas in the tunnel, centered below the push rod... one just forward of the forward rear seat bulkhead and the other just forward of the rear baggage bulkhead. I've started the process of installing the push rod to see if I've got adequate clearance for the coax connection, but thought some of you may have already figured that one out (and I've got some silly hope I can avoid multiple installations of the push rod). I'll be using a .063 backing plate. Thank you, Jeff Carpenter 40304 definitely in the 90/90 phase ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fly droppings
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2008
WD-40 works wonders. I use it to take off dried up bugs on my leading edge. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219124#219124 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Yes, I concur. I have the alarms on the EFIS, and not the EIS which is buried. The VP-200 handles all the annunciations and electrical alarms. avu1(at)md.metrocast.net wrote: > To summarize the various responses: > > Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. > Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. > Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. > Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. > Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that system. > Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based > on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is > no longer there. > Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the > EIS remote button. > > -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219214#219214 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Battery Size
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Some background. As I was building.........I was worried about the CG being to far forward and thus I was not concerned about putting in a bigger battery (Odyssey 925 at 24 LBS) and my O2 system behind the rear bulkhead. In the end, that left my empty weight CG at 109.22, which is pretty far aft. My first annual is due in Jan and thus I am considering options for moving the CG forward. I have a little more interior work to do, but I do not think it will have any affect. One of the options I am considering in moving the battery from the normal location behind the bulkhead and mounting it on the firewall. My rough calculation is the empty weight CG will move to 107.58 a little forward of the forward edge of the envelope. (this does not include some of the wiring changes which will also move the CG a little forward also.....). So here is the real question, anyone flying out there with just one PC680 battery? If so have you found it adequate? I am a little like Tim Taylor....why use a 680 anmp battery when you can get a 925 amp battery, but do I need all of that power. I have a standby alternator (8 amp) and a backup battery for my Alamo instruments (AS, Altimeter and ADI). So I am not to worried about the loss of the primary altinator Anybody have any other ideas? Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Battery Size
Date: Dec 13, 2008
If it works for your CG, another option is to use two identical but smaller batteries, one aft one forward. These would replace your one big battery and your small backup battery. Run them in parallel for normal ops, split if you have an problem on one side. PC-625s are more than adequate for starting. My normal maintenance is to replace one battery every other year. The old ones end up in law tractors and such - still going strong years later. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery Size Some background. As I was building.........I was worried about the CG being to far forward and thus I was not concerned about putting in a bigger battery (Odyssey 925 at 24 LBS) and my O2 system behind the rear bulkhead. In the end, that left my empty weight CG at 109.22, which is pretty far aft. My first annual is due in Jan and thus I am considering options for moving the CG forward. I have a little more interior work to do, but I do not think it will have any affect. One of the options I am considering in moving the battery from the normal location behind the bulkhead and mounting it on the firewall. My rough calculation is the empty weight CG will move to 107.58 a little forward of the forward edge of the envelope. (this does not include some of the wiring changes which will also move the CG a little forward also.....). So here is the real question, anyone flying out there with just one PC680 battery? If so have you found it adequate? I am a little like Tim Taylor....why use a 680 anmp battery when you can get a 925 amp battery, but do I need all of that power. I have a standby alternator (8 amp) and a backup battery for my Alamo instruments (AS, Altimeter and ADI). So I am not to worried about the loss of the primary altinator Anybody have any other ideas? Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Size
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Rene, I have 2 PC680 batteries in my RV10. One is for the main bus and the other is backup and for the EFIS to boot on during start. I can switch in both batteries for start if needed. My experience has been that 1 PC680 starts my RV-6A just fine, but it's not really enough for the IO540. It will start it but sometimes I have to use both batteries when it is cold and it still just barely gets it started. I'm using a skytec PM starter, so I different starter might help. Kevin Belue RV-6A Flying RV-10 Flying ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Battery Size > > Some background. As I was building.........I was worried about the CG > being > to far forward and thus I was not concerned about putting in a bigger > battery (Odyssey 925 at 24 LBS) and my O2 system behind the rear bulkhead. > In the end, that left my empty weight CG at 109.22, which is pretty far > aft. > > > My first annual is due in Jan and thus I am considering options for moving > the CG forward. I have a little more interior work to do, but I do not > think it will have any affect. > > One of the options I am considering in moving the battery from the normal > location behind the bulkhead and mounting it on the firewall. My rough > calculation is the empty weight CG will move to 107.58 a little forward of > the forward edge of the envelope. (this does not include some of the > wiring > changes which will also move the CG a little forward also.....). > > So here is the real question, anyone flying out there with just one PC680 > battery? If so have you found it adequate? I am a little like Tim > Taylor....why use a 680 anmp battery when you can get a 925 amp battery, > but > do I need all of that power. > > I have a standby alternator (8 amp) and a backup battery for my Alamo > instruments (AS, Altimeter and ADI). So I am not to worried about the > loss > of the primary altinator > > Anybody have any other ideas? > > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Size
Skytec PM starters have about the highest current draw out there. The NL series takes maybe 10-20% less, and the Kelly E-drive takes about 1/2 the current of the Skytec PM. Kevin Belue wrote: > > Rene, > > I have 2 PC680 batteries in my RV10. One is for the main bus and the > other is backup and for the EFIS to boot on during start. I can switch > in both batteries for start if needed. My experience has been that 1 > PC680 starts my RV-6A just fine, but it's not really enough for the > IO540. It will start it but sometimes I have to use both batteries > when it is cold and it still just barely gets it started. I'm using a > skytec PM starter, so I different starter might help. > > Kevin Belue > RV-6A Flying > RV-10 Flying > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:12 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Battery Size > > >> >> Some background. As I was building.........I was worried about the >> CG being >> to far forward and thus I was not concerned about putting in a bigger >> battery (Odyssey 925 at 24 LBS) and my O2 system behind the rear >> bulkhead. >> In the end, that left my empty weight CG at 109.22, which is pretty >> far aft. >> >> >> My first annual is due in Jan and thus I am considering options for >> moving >> the CG forward. I have a little more interior work to do, but I do not >> think it will have any affect. >> >> One of the options I am considering in moving the battery from the >> normal >> location behind the bulkhead and mounting it on the firewall. My rough >> calculation is the empty weight CG will move to 107.58 a little >> forward of >> the forward edge of the envelope. (this does not include some of the >> wiring >> changes which will also move the CG a little forward also.....). >> >> So here is the real question, anyone flying out there with just one >> PC680 >> battery? If so have you found it adequate? I am a little like Tim >> Taylor....why use a 680 anmp battery when you can get a 925 amp >> battery, but >> do I need all of that power. >> >> I have a standby alternator (8 amp) and a backup battery for my Alamo >> instruments (AS, Altimeter and ADI). So I am not to worried about >> the loss >> of the primary altinator >> >> Anybody have any other ideas? >> >> >> >> Rene' >> 801-721-6080 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2008
From: "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
I only have to ask one question... WHY? You have the alerting function on the EIS .. it's immediately available .. the EFIS takes a minute to come up. I want to know about low oil pressure immediately. I also don't understand why someone would up in another sensor .. you have the EIS. Anyone can do what they want ... however I've been flying mine for 4 years and it works wonderfully. Especially for those without dual busses .. who have to turn on their EFIS by switch. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Sat, Dec 13, 2008 at 10:55 AM, marcausman wrote: > > Yes, I concur. I have the alarms on the EFIS, and not the EIS which is > buried. The VP-200 handles all the annunciations and electrical alarms. > > > avu1(at)md.metrocast.net wrote: > > To summarize the various responses: > > > > Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. > > Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. > > Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. > > Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. > > Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that > system. > > Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based > > on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is > > no longer there. > > Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the > > EIS remote button. > > > > > > > -------- > Marc Ausman > http://www.verticalpower.com > RV-7 IO-390 Flying > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219214#219214 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
In the case below there isn't any additional sensors. The VP is the prim ary electrical system so it's up before anything else and it simply takes d ata feeds from the EIS and EFIS to redisplay. In most other cases I believ e the EFIS has a backup battery to keep the EFIS online during cranking so again, no additional sensors. I know when I was giving the GRT's serious c onsideration I also planned on burying the EIS display. Not a lot of panel space with the amount of stuff some of us are cramming in along with large r displays so it's easier to hide the box and let it display on the EFIS or a VP unit. Ultimately I went with the AFS stuff so it's no longer a conce rn. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 8:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include I only have to ask one question... WHY? You have the alerting function on the EIS .. it's immediately available .. the EFIS takes a minute to come up . I want to know about low oil pressure immediately. I also don't underst and why someone would up in another sensor .. you have the EIS. Anyone can do what they want ... however I've been flying mine for 4 years and it wor ks wonderfully. Especially for those without dual busses .. who have to tu rn on their EFIS by switch. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com<http://www.n142ds.com> On Sat, Dec 13, 2008 at 10:55 AM, marcausman > wrote: o:marc(at)verticalpower.com>> Yes, I concur. I have the alarms on the EFIS, and not the EIS which is buri ed. The VP-200 handles all the annunciations and electrical alarms. avu1(at)md.metrocast.net<http://md.metrocast.net> wrote: > To summarize the various responses: > > Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. > Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. > Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. > Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. > Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that syste m. > Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based > on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is > no longer there. > Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the > EIS remote button. > > -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219214#219214 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
What Michael said. In my case, the VP-200 is on during start and that is used as the primary engine instrument (fed by the EIS). And, I'd prefer to look at graphical engine gauges instead of the character display on the EIS. -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219440#219440 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Dec 15, 2008
I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last summer. It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable connects to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at the servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to any who are interested. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler
Date: Dec 15, 2008
It isn't clear if CHT's are affected mainly because of the large drop in OAT. To recap, my original problem was high oil temps in the summer when OAT would routinely be well above 100F. The engine is a IO-540-exp with 10:1 and 310hp. I tried many things but lastly added a second oil cooler on the right side. It was installed just like the left side cooler. Unfortunately, gathering comparison data is difficult since OAT's have since followed the stock market (ie, down by almost 50%) but it does not appear that rerouting air to the new oil cooler has affected CHT's. I didn't think it would be any different since that is the way we cool the left side oil cooler. Now if this southern Arizona winter weather would just go away and get back to the 100+ temps I need for testing. 70 degree weather is just a pain. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Albert, Did that change the cylinder head temps at all? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: APRS (Automatic Positioning Reporting System)
Date: Dec 15, 2008
After reading the article in Kitplanes by Sam Buchanan, I got interested in this system. (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_Position_Reporting_System) A buddy had a license so we installed the equipment ($300) and have been trying it out. I was so pleased with the results that I took the test for a Technician class ham license and now have my own call sign and moved the transmitter to my aircraft. Pretty neat. You can log onto the internet and see the location in real time. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
I'd love to see pictures! I've modified my -10 so that the rudder cables hook to the pedals inside the tunnel, and will add a loop to tie the rudder pedals together. The trim is the only thing left! Linn Albert Gardner wrote: > > I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last summer. > It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the > rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. > Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the > aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead > against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable connects > to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at the > servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to > any who are interested. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Dec 15, 2008
You're going to get numerous requests, so please post pictures, parts lists, and instructions. Inquiring minds want to know...... thansk, bob > > From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> > Date: 2008/12/15 Mon PM 03:13:00 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim > > > I'd love to see pictures! I've modified my -10 so that the rudder > cables hook to the pedals inside the tunnel, and will add a loop to tie > the rudder pedals together. The trim is the only thing left! > Linn > Albert Gardner wrote: > > > > I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last summer. > > It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the > > rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. > > Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the > > aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead > > against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable connects > > to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at the > > servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to > > any who are interested. > > Albert Gardner > > Yuma, AZ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Albert Please send me pics I am very interested in this. Send them off list if you like. Thanks John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:35 AM Subject: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last summer. It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable connects to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at the servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to any who are interested. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Linn can you send me pics how you connected the rudder pedals in the tunnel I very much want to do that on my 10. thanks John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 12:13 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim I'd love to see pictures! I've modified my -10 so that the rudder cables hook to the pedals inside the tunnel, and will add a loop to tie the rudder pedals together. The trim is the only thing left! Linn Albert Gardner wrote: > > I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last summer. > It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the > rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. > Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the > aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead > against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable connects > to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at the > servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to > any who are interested. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Peterson <peterson(at)orbitec.com.au>
Subject: Garmin 430 WX protocol
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Hi all, I'm new to the list and I have a question (sorry if it's a bit off- topic) - does anybody know where I can find out more about the protocol for weather display that is used on the Garmin series of GPS receivers? For example, I know it is possible to display satellite weather that has been received by a Garmin GDL-69 (satellite receiver) on the display of Garmin 430. Does anyone happen to know the protocol / format for the communication between the GDL-69 and the Garmin 430? Is it documented anywhere, or perhaps an open standard (e.g. ARINC?). I have done a bit of google searching but didn't turn anything up. Thanks very much in advance. Regs, Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead console
From: "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
For those of you looking for the overhead console, its finally ready and fitting perfect to look at it go to nonstopaviation.com or I believe you can also contact Stein from SteinAir because he is putting together a package deal to include our overhead with his vents, lights and switches. Sorry for the advertisement but I know a lot of people where looking for an overhead. Steve Raddatz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219552#219552 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
I'll try!!! Linn John Cumins wrote: > > Linn can you send me pics how you connected the rudder pedals in the tunnel > I very much want to do that on my 10. > > thanks > > John G. Cumins > President > > JC'S Interactive Systems > 2499 B1 Martin Rd > Fairfield Ca 94533 > 707-425-7100 > 707-425-7576 Fax > > Your Total Technology Solution Provider > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 12:13 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim > > > I'd love to see pictures! I've modified my -10 so that the rudder > cables hook to the pedals inside the tunnel, and will add a loop to tie > the rudder pedals together. The trim is the only thing left! > Linn > Albert Gardner wrote: > >> >> I am very pleased with the spring bias rudder trim I installed last >> > summer. > >> It was easy to fabricate, install, and required no modifications to the >> rudder. It has adequate range for high attitude climbs and fast descents. >> Beats having to hold rudder pressure for long periods of time. I used the >> aileron trim servo kit and installed it just behind the baggage bulkhead >> against the bottom skin straddling a stiffener. An additional cable >> > connects > >> to the rudder horn on one side, wraps around a pulley, to the springs at >> > the > >> servo and back to the rudder horn on the other side. Pictures available to >> any who are interested. >> Albert Gardner >> Yuma, AZ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Dave, I don't think they would publish that. But we could hook up a port monitor between the two devices and document the protocol. We could then emulate the GDL-69 using a much cheaper WxWorks receiver. Then again, we could emulate the Garmin with a much cheaper computer, and then... :) oh, never mind... :) Regards, Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219553#219553 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Lemme try again!!! :-) linn Walters wrote: > I'll try!!! > Linn > > > John Cumins wrote: >> >> Linn can you send me pics how you connected the rudder pedals in the >> tunnel >> I very much want to do that on my 10. >> >> thanks >> >> John G. Cumins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Powder coating in Phoenix area
Date: Dec 15, 2008
I am looking for any experience anyone has with powder coating shops in the Phoenix area. I am building a 10 and have some interior and other parts I want to get coated. Thanks for any leads you have. Michael Lefever RV 10 "it will be done in a year=2C but who knows what year that will be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Dec 16, 2008
I had a lot of requests for pics so I'll post this to the list. I used the same servo kit that we use in the wing for aileron trim, servo, springs, assembly etc. I left a 12" gap in the cables for springs just like in the aileron setup and that seems to produce adequate trim. The pulley is a 3" dia for 3/32" cable. I put a keeper over the pulley so the cable couldn't come off but I think it is redundant. The bracket holding the pulley sits on top of F-1035 and under the elevator servo mounting bracket see page 10-24 fig 1. I bent a flange on the sides to make it stiffer. I installed the pulley bracket and then assembled the MAC servo kit. The servo and bracket are mounted about midway between the bulkheads and straddling a stiffener using 4 flat head screws up through the bottom skin. I used 3/32 7x19 s/s cable with MS20668 Eye Ends. At the rudder horn I used a longer AN3 bolt and attached the trim cable below the original rudder cable. This was actually very easy to install especially if you had thought ahead and the 5 wire cable was already in place. The dual cables at the rudder horn aren't too nice but I didn't want to clamp onto the rudder cables inside the tail cone for some reason. The new cables line up well with the snap bushings and the original rudder cables. You can easily over-ride the trim should it be necessary. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Subject: Overhead console
Holy cr@p! Is that thing gold plated for $640?!? I would hope at least carbon fiber. At least it has free shipping. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead console For those of you looking for the overhead console, its finally ready and fitting perfect to look at it go to nonstopaviation.com or I believe you can also contact Stein from SteinAir because he is putting together a package deal to include our overhead with his vents, lights and switches. Sorry for the advertisement but I know a lot of people where looking for an overhead. Steve Raddatz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219552#219552 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Powder coating in Phoenix area
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Until I found a local vendor, I used to send stuff to: Extreme Powder Coating 4120 E. Presidio Mesa, AZ 85215 480.832.9034 They did a great job and their prices were good. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 9:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: Powder coating in Phoenix area I am looking for any experience anyone has with powder coating shops in the Phoenix area. I am building a 10 and have some interior and other parts I want to get coated. Thanks for any leads you have. Michael Lefever RV 10 "it will be done in a year, but who knows what year that will be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Powder coating in Phoenix area
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Several of us in the Prescott area have been very happy with: Prescott Powder Coating 1435 Commercial Way Prescott, AZ , 86301-6503 Phone: 928-778-9490 FAX: 928-778-7173 and their prices have been very reasonable compared to what friends in the Minneapolis area pay. Marlys and John On Dec 15, 2008, at 10:34 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote: > I am looking for any experience anyone has with powder coating shops > in the Phoenix area. I am building a 10 and have some interior and > other parts I want to get coated. Thanks for any leads you have. > > Michael Lefever > RV 10 > "it will be done in a year, but who knows what year that will be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Overhead console
Date: Dec 16, 2008
I personally thought it sounded a little high myself, however, I'm sure lots of work went into designing it and coming up with a finished product. I guess they can ask whatever amount they want for it. The market will let them know if they're overpriced or not. I will probably go the chevrolet overhead console route if I ever get to that point. It already has the light bezels in it so It should be a fairly easy install--not to mention a Hell of a lot cheaper from a salvage yard!!! (Anybody else done this?) ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:06 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console > > > Holy cr@p! Is that thing gold plated for $640?!? I would hope at least > carbon fiber. At least it has free shipping. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:01 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Overhead console > > > For those of you looking for the overhead console, its finally ready and > fitting perfect to look at it go to nonstopaviation.com or I believe you > can also contact Stein from SteinAir because he is putting together a > package deal to include our overhead with his vents, lights and switches. > Sorry for the advertisement but I know a lot of people where looking for > an overhead. > Steve Raddatz > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219552#219552 > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 8:53 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Pg. 13-3 step 2 (wing spar construction)
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Can anybody clarify the 2nd step on page 13-3 in the wing spar construction section?? I understand to countersink the nutplate attach holes but the section that reads "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate." just kinda all runs together. Also, at what point do I need to start using a fuel tank dimple die instead of the regular 3/32 dimple die??? Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead console
From: "WMD" <wdeviny(at)kcbx.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Folks, FWIW - the Accurate Air console was considerably more (I know this as I purchased one of the last ones from Stein). Haven't unpacked it, but looking at the finish of Steve's unit versus pictures I have seen of the Accurate Air unit - the new one appears to be significantly better. Just a thought. Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219618#219618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Pg. 13-3 step 2 (wing spar construction)
Date: Dec 16, 2008
As far as the die. if you bought it, use it on all of the fuel tank pieces, if you didn't don't buy it. I did my whole fuel tank with a 3/32 dimple die, it worked fine. Pascal From: Bill Britton Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Pg. 13-3 step 2 (wing spar construction) Can anybody clarify the 2nd step on page 13-3 in the wing spar construction section?? I understand to countersink the nutplate attach holes but the section that reads "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate." just kinda all runs together. Also, at what point do I need to start using a fuel tank dimple die instead of the regular 3/32 dimple die??? Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: picture needed
Date: Dec 16, 2008
I am considering locating an APARS box under the fairing that covers the trim servo and cables. Anyone have a picture of the mounted horizontal stab and installed trim servo and cables? I am looking for a convenient place to install APARS AIO (all in one) box. I need a location under fiberglass to allow the GPS signals through. Also need a convenient place to wire external antenna and convenient to power supply with Master ON. Tailcone seems most appropriate but don't wish to cut a hole (with glass inspection panel) for the GPS antenna to see the sky. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead console
Yes, it was more but it included the aluminum vents and the lights which adds up to about $400, Tony told me his cost on the vents were about $85 each, Stein sells them for about 495 IIRC so by the time you add them to the cost of just the overhead your at $1000. Same as Accuracy...I like mine. I wish the interior of the cabin top was Gel coated like the overhead is/was. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "WMD" <wdeviny(at)kcbx.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:29:27 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console Folks, FWIW - the Accurate Air console was considerably more (I know this as I purchased one of the last ones from Stein). Haven't unpacked it, but looking at the finish of Steve's unit versus pictures I have seen of the Accurate Air unit - the new one appears to be significantly better. Just a thought. Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219618#219618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Subject: Overhead console
A bunch of people have done this including myself. It was originated by a member of my former chapter, EAA983, Jim Erskine. I picked up a brand new one that a dealer had ordered for someone but they never picked it up. It was less than $50 on eBay if I remember correctly. To make it fit I taped the bottom of it with professional release tape (aka packing tape), positioned it in the place I wanted it on the cabin lid, and went to town with professional molding foam (aka urethane foam door and window gap sealer). Once the foam hardened I sculpted it with a professional sculpting tool I acquired from the local Wal-Mart for about $9 in the knife area (aka electric knife). I then covered it with micro and some ply's in strategic places. For the hard points I took a piece of AL HVAC tape, made a small cylinder, put in a chunk of AL, and filled with flox. Drilled and tapped. All told I probably have $65 in it counting the knife and spent less than 10 hours on it. The lights are all in the correct places for use and it will look very nice once the headliner is in. Still haven't figured out a good use for the spot where the factory compass readout went though. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Britton Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 11:18 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead console I personally thought it sounded a little high myself, however, I'm sure lots of work went into designing it and coming up with a finished product. I guess they can ask whatever amount they want for it. The market will let them know if they're overpriced or not. I will probably go the chevrolet overhead console route if I ever get to that point. It already has the light bezels in it so It should be a fairly easy install--not to mention a Hell of a lot cheaper from a salvage yard!!! (Anybody else done this?) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Subject: Re: Overhead console
I hear one of Accuracy's old employees is still making the overhead consoles for about half of this new one, somewhere in the low $300's. I'm sure if anyone has contact info they will share it. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WMD Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 11:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console Folks, FWIW - the Accurate Air console was considerably more (I know this as I purchased one of the last ones from Stein). Haven't unpacked it, but looking at the finish of Steve's unit versus pictures I have seen of the Accurate Air unit - the new one appears to be significantly better. Just a thought. Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219618#219618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead console
That would be Eric McDonald, his email address is below. Rick Sked 40185 eric(at)redmondair.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:48:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console I hear one of Accuracy's old employees is still making the overhead consoles for about half of this new one, somewhere in the low $300's. I'm sure if anyone has contact info they will share it. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WMD Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 11:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console Folks, FWIW - the Accurate Air console was considerably more (I know this as I purchased one of the last ones from Stein). Haven't unpacked it, but looking at the finish of Steve's unit versus pictures I have seen of the Accurate Air unit - the new one appears to be significantly better. Just a thought. Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219618#219618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Overhead console
I did the same thing and it worked out great. I did change the lights over to safety red LEDs with a blue LED cabin illumination light. I did use the compass bay to add in a 9V transistor battery backup with a switch on a plate where the compass was. Thus if a total power out, I can reach up and have decent panel illumination via the 9V battery backup. Byron N253RV assigned - Hopefully early next year for flight! ---- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote: > > A bunch of people have done this including myself. ...> > To make it fit I taped the bottom of it with professional release tape (aka packing tape), positioned it ....> > All told I probably have $65 in it counting the knife and spent less than 10 hours on it. The lights are all in the correct places for use and it will look very nice once the headliner is in. Still haven't figured out a good use for the spot where the factory compass readout went though. > > Michael > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Powder coating in Phoenix area
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
I have also used extreme a couple of times for various projects. They are located close to Falcon Field and have a lot of experience with aircraft parts. http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Extreme.Powder.Coating.480-832-9034 -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219637#219637 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead console
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Stein, I am 90% sure that I will be purchasing the Airflow systems A/C package. How would your setup work with their A/C or compare to what they offer? If they will allow me to delete the console, I would just as soon get what you are offering. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219638#219638 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Icing Encounters
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Has any of the flying RV-10 fleet had an inadvertent icing encounter? If so, can you report on the details, amount and type of ice and effects on performance? Thanks, Steve Roberts (Still lurking while flying Mooney M20E) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Peterson <peterson(at)orbitec.com.au>
Subject: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Hi Lenny, Thanks for your feedback. I was beginning to suspect that it would be a proprietary protocol. Putting a protocol analyser onto the traffic and documenting the messages sounds like the only way forward. I am disappointed that there are no standardised protocols (e.g. an ARINC standard) for the exchange of WX data between receivers and MFD displays. Oh well. I presume this is also the case for traffic data, etc? Next question: do you happen to know the nature of the electrical interface between the GDL-69 and the 430? Is it a serial line protocol (RS-232 etc?) Regards Dave On 16/12/2008, at 6:58 PM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol > From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> > > > Dave, > > I don't think they would publish that. But we could hook up a port > monitor between > the two devices and document the protocol. We could then emulate the > GDL-69 > using a much cheaper WxWorks receiver. > > > Then again, we could emulate the Garmin with a much cheaper > computer, and then... > :) oh, never mind... :) > > Regards, > Lenny > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219553#219553 > -- Orbitec Pty Ltd Suite 1-11, 460 Pacific Hwy St. Leonards NSW 2065 AUSTRALIA Phone: +61 (0)2 8002 4780 Mobile: +61 (0)415 943 940 Email: support(at)orbitec.com.au Web: http://www.orbitec.com.au This email may contain CONFIDENTIAL information intended solely for the use of the intended recipient. If you receive this email in error, we ask that you notify us by email of our error and then delete the email as soon as possible. We ask that you do not copy, store or distribute any message that you have received in error and we thank you for your assistance. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: aveo products
Hey everyone, Does anyone have any experience with the vents at Aveo?=C2- Here's a link:=C2- http://www.diagnosys.com/Schematic-UDA.html Also, the rock rack they offer:=C2- http://www.aveoengineering.com/produc ts/AveoRockRack/index.php These look large to me when printed to size, but can't tell if they are sim ilar in size to other products. Thanks, Sean Blair #40225=C2- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead console
From: "raddatz" <n667sr(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Ok heres how this came to be. I purchased three overhead consoles from Tony, the first one costing $1895 and that included lights, vents and DVD player and the fit was bad. I called Tony and reported the fitting problems and sent pictures. Then I ordered number two only this time No DVD player and my cost was $1200 with lights and vents, i had to buy switches and wire and mount everything and when it showed up the fit had not changed. I then called Tony and ordered a third overhead which was going to fit better and this time the price was $1350 no DVD just lights and vents I had to buy the switches and mount and wire and the fit still hadn't changed. Thats when I decided to make my own mold and make some changes for what I think is the better. First off the number one reason I install the overheads is so I can run fresh air to all seats via two Naca vents located behind the baggage compartment, because keeping cool is the most important thing. The added benefits are overhead lighting a place to mount a DVD player a place to run wires for overhead antenna's like Traffic or GPS and a way to hide them ugly door hinge sockets. If your just looking for a way to put in overhead lighting or sun glass holder then by all means save your money and find a cheaper alternative. Steve Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219701#219701 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: vents
.....ooops!=C2- This is the correct link for the Aveo Vents. http://www.aveoengineering.com/products/AveoAir/index.php Sean B. #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: vents
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Can't see how much..Interested in price Still why not go with a proven product from Stein, he has the same vents that large aircraft building manufactures use, I think they get them from him actually. http://www.steinair.com/eyeballvents.htm Pascal From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 7:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: vents .....ooops! This is the correct link for the Aveo Vents. http://www.aveoengineering.com/products/AveoAir/index.php Sean B. #40225 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead console
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I purchased the AA Overhead Console fully loaded. I believe I "got a deal" on pricing but I have no recollection of what that pricing was at the time. To say they were a poor fit was an understatement. But with enough filling & sanding, filling & sanding the thing came together real well. http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/console.htm Now the bad news... I opted to include the DVD player with my purchase to minimize the "Are We There Yet?" syndrome. Unfortunately the location of the DVD is absolutely absurd. With the rear seats in place the DVD screen is about 12" from the PAX face. A properly designed console could have moved the DVD player 10", 12" maybe 14" forward dramatically improving the viewing angle for the users. As it is now I have added a heavy, expensive, nearly useless option to my plane with no real recourse. If I were to do it again I would either (option 1) build two screens into the back of the front seat headrests (like Chris J) and drive the screens off of the pop up DVD player in the panel or (option 2) I would just hang a portable DVD player off the back of the seat when needed. (option 3) Keep yelling "No were not there yet, cant you see we are still flying?" So I don't seem totally negative the added air flow is fantastic! My 2 cents, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead console
From: "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
I find it hard to believe that anyone would post a negative reply when someone is trying to provide a good product for a reasonable price. This has been a big discussion as who sells a overhead console. When someone does come out with one he gets bashed because of price. I have been doing custom fiberglass for over 20 years as part of my business and what Steve is offering is well worth the money. I have seen many pieces of fiberglass parts that are poor quality but this overhead is well worth the money. If you are spending over 120k on a airplane and you would like a nice overhead console spend the money. If you want to do it yourself have at it. Go spend 3-4 days when you could be doing something else on your airplane. Don't dog a guy for making a nice product. I could have made these but I looked at the time and money it cost and found $640.00 a steal. This overhead has many advantages as stated previously and solves many other issues that in the long run will save time and some money. Geoff -------- Build QB RV-10 N829GW Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219741#219741 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: vents
looks like $69.00 each for silver or black....plus $5.00 shipping.=C2- Go ld, green, blue are + $10.00. http://www.21stcentury-usa.com/aveo/misc/airvent/ Also, matching lights based on the same concept. http://www.21stcentury-usa.com/aveo/misc/ballbeam/ I have no idea of the quality.=C2- Looks interesting though. Sean ----- Original Message ----- From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:35:28 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: Re: RV10-List: vents Can't see how much..Interested in price Still why not go with a proven product from Stein, he has the same vents th at large aircraft building manufactures use, I think they get them from him actually. http://www.steinair.com/eyeballvents.htm =C2-Pascal From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 7:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: vents .....ooops!=C2- This is the correct link for the Aveo Vents. http://www.aveoengineering.com/products/AveoAir/index.php Sean B. #40225 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com /contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Dave, I have the install manual for a discontinued GDL-49 unit, which talks to the 400/500 series panel mounts via RS-232, so I think it's safe to assume that the 69 uses the same thing. If that's the case it's very easy to sniff the data from it. Assuming that it's coming from the same source as the WxWorks data, it won't be hard to guess the protocol unless they encrypted the data. Bill may be able to help you with that. The problem with the protocol hack would be that if you sent a bad packet to your Garmin screen during flight, you could possibly lock it up in flight. Not very desirable. I'm going to display WxWorks data on my own screen. It's much safer that way and allows for other interesting tricks... Lenny #40803 just opened the door to "door hell" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219745#219745 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: EFB's and charts
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Tim, Great idea! Thanks for the writeup! What does 233x translate to in Mb/sec? Does it work as fast as with the old hard drive? Did you have to disable write cache and other things for it to work right with Windows? I have a Samsung Q1 Ultra, and run Anywhere Map on it. I'm thinking of SSD-ing it Tim style :) It's small and pretty bright. I had to write an on-screen keyboard interface for it, because the original one is unusable in flight. Other than that it's a great system and cheaper than the Motion tablet. They sell them on ebay new for around $800. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219747#219747 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Subject: picture needed
David, it seems that many people have simply stuck them out in a wingtip. Easy enough to power from the position lights and I for one plan on havin g it on whenever I'm in the air which also works nicely with powering off o f the position lights. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 11:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: picture needed I am considering locating an APARS box under the fairing that covers the tr im servo and cables. Anyone have a picture of the mounted horizontal stab a nd installed trim servo and cables? I am looking for a convenient place to install APARS AIO (all in one) box. I need a location under fiberglass to a llow the GPS signals through. Also need a convenient place to wire external antenna and convenient to power supply with Master ON. Tailcone seems most appropriate but don't wish to cut a hole (with glass inspection panel) for the GPS antenna to see the sky. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
The reason I don't want to use the EIS is because it will be hidden, as other builders have indicated. I agree that a 'fail-safe' low oil pressure indication is valuable. I'm wondering if there is some way to hook up a low pressure light in parallel with the EIS (and the Hobbs meter)? Bill Watson David Schaefer wrote: > I only have to ask one question... WHY? You have the alerting > function on the EIS .. it's immediately available .. the EFIS takes a > minute to come up. I want to know about low oil pressure immediately. > I also don't understand why someone would up in another sensor .. > you have the EIS. Anyone can do what they want ... however I've been > flying mine for 4 years and it works wonderfully. Especially for > those without dual busses .. who have to turn on their EFIS by switch. > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS > www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com> > > > On Sat, Dec 13, 2008 at 10:55 AM, marcausman > wrote: > > > > > Yes, I concur. I have the alarms on the EFIS, and not the EIS > which is buried. The VP-200 handles all the annunciations and > electrical alarms. > > > avu1(at)md.metrocast.net <http://md.metrocast.net> wrote: > > To summarize the various responses: > > > > Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. > > Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. > > Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. > > Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. > > Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by > that system. > > Either system can have an external light which blinks when > tripped based > > on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when > problem is > > no longer there. > > Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need > for the > > EIS remote button. > > > > > > > -------- > Marc Ausman > http://www.verticalpower.com > RV-7 IO-390 Flying > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219214#219214 > > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Bill, I did exactly that. The manifold has space for 2 sensors and normally one of those ports is just plugged. A pressure switch (like used for a hobbs) in that port will drive a light just fine if the concern is an oil pressure indicator independent of the EIS. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of MauleDriver Sent: Wed 12/17/2008 02:38 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Cc: Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include The reason I don't want to use the EIS is because it will be hidden, as other builders have indicated. I agree that a 'fail-safe' low oil pressure indication is valuable. I'm wondering if there is some way to hook up a low pressure light in parallel with the EIS (and the Hobbs meter)? Bill Watson David Schaefer wrote: I only have to ask one question... WHY? You have the alerting function on the EIS .. it's immediately available .. the EFIS takes a minute to come up. I want to know about low oil pressure immediately. I also don't understand why someone would up in another sensor .. you have the EIS. Anyone can do what they want ... however I've been flying mine for 4 years and it works wonderfully. Especially for those without dual busses .. who have to turn on their EFIS by switch. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Sat, Dec 13, 2008 at 10:55 AM, marcausman wrote: Yes, I concur. I have the alarms on the EFIS, and not the EIS which is buried. The VP-200 handles all the annunciations and electrical alarms. avu1(at)md.metrocast.net wrote: > To summarize the various responses: > > Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS. > Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another. > Either system can be programmed to have no alerts. > Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other. > Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that system. > Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based > on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is > no longer there. > Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the > EIS remote button. > > -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219214#219214 href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Bill, if you have a an oil pressure switch (not pressure transducer) that you are using to run the hobbs meter, you can also wire that to a separate light. You should wire it to a bus powered when the battery contactor is closed. That way, you know oil pressure (good/bad) separately from the EIS. On a related note, I do have a 1" UMA oil pressure gauge mounted on the panel and it uses a separate pressure transducer than the one driving the EIS. I normally don't think that duplicate engine gauges are necessary, but in the case of oil pressure, it is the one instrument IMO that can drive some hard decisions if it or the transducer fails, so I have two separate ones. -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219838#219838 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Peterson <peterson(at)orbitec.com.au>
Subject: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Thanks Lenny, and to everyone else who responded. I think the best bet is obviously a protocol analyser and a lot of spare time ;) Dave On 17/12/2008, at 6:59 PM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 430 WX protocol > From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> > > > Dave, > > I have the install manual for a discontinued GDL-49 unit, which > talks to the 400/500 > series panel mounts via RS-232, so I think it's safe to assume that > the > 69 uses the same thing. > If that's the case it's very easy to sniff the data from it. > Assuming that it's > coming from the same source as the WxWorks data, it won't be hard to > guess the > protocol unless they encrypted the data. Bill may be able to help > you with that. > > The problem with the protocol hack would be that if you sent a bad > packet to your > Garmin screen during flight, you could possibly lock it up in > flight. Not > very desirable. > > I'm going to display WxWorks data on my own screen. It's much safer > that way and > allows for other interesting tricks... > > Lenny > #40803 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Gear Strut
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Does anyone have their WD-1017 Nose Gear Strut on hand, but that they won't actually be installing in the next month or so? We'd like to borrow one for some prototyping activity, after which we would return it promptly. We'd pay for all shipping, to us and return. Thanks, Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
H, I am in the final planning stage of my panel and in order to make a precise CAD drawing I'd like to know what the minimum distance for the AFS-3500 from the glare shield and the side should be. Based on the feedback I received I did some changes to the panel. See attached file. In case you have also the distances from the glare shield handy required for the AFS-4500 that would be great as well. Best Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219961#219961 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v15_208.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield
At a minimum, you'll need to observe the 3/4" x 3/4" angle that attaches the panel to the glare shield (or notch it if you find yourself near a curve enabling slot). I don't think that the 3500 is deep enough that you need to worry about the glareshield converging in to the box. -----Original Message----- >From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> >Sent: Dec 18, 2008 10:46 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield > > >H, >I am in the final planning stage of my panel and in order to make a precise CAD drawing I'd like to know what the minimum distance for the AFS-3500 from the glare shield and the side should be. >Based on the feedback I received I did some changes to the panel. See attached file. > >In case you have also the distances from the glare shield handy required for the AFS-4500 that would be great as well. > >Best >Michael > >-------- >RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) >#511 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219961#219961 > > >Attachments: > >http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v15_208.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers. Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering? Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Pascal, On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composite pieces. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Pascal There is a product that is designed for just that I will try and look it up and send it to you . It is not a filler primer but a filler then you pay the primer on top of that. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming From: pascal <mailto:pascalreid(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers. Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering? Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Pascal, You left out a critical part of the name below. It's actually called UV Smooth Prime and also acts as a UV blocker for composite parts which is cri tical. UV WILL breakdown our composites eventually making them brittle. W hatever you use make sure it has a UV inhibitor in it or you put it on thic k enough to have enough solids to do the job. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming From: pascal<mailto:pascalreid(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than r equires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid do ing the multiple layers. Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gath er based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it al l, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons befor e spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering? Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand until you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the parts. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming Pascal, On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composite pieces. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
I have a 4500 on the left side and a 3500 on the right side. If you can handle a Corel Draw file, I can send mine to you. I used it to design and then cut the panel. Just looking at your jpg file, I would say that the right side needs to be moved down about an inch. The main reason is how much you need to chop the rib above. If you are going for a 4500 on the left, then I think you need to move your 3 back up round instruments and move the 4500 down similar to the right side. I did have to cut an extra 1/4" from the rib for the 4500 as the top of the case appears to sit a little higher. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219988#219988 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
spread and spray by Sherman Williams is the primer/filler used by Piper and their fiberglass starts pretty rough (about like Vans). _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming From: pascal <mailto:pascalreid(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers. Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering? Thanks! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Good point, I'll be using a paint that has the UV protection in it, Same one used for corvettes and such. Thanks for pointing that out. Pascal From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:59 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming Pascal, You left out a critical part of the name below. It's actually called UV Smooth Prime and also acts as a UV blocker for composite parts which is critical. UV WILL breakdown our composites eventually making them brittle. Whatever you use make sure it has a UV inhibitor in it or you put it on thick enough to have enough solids to do the job. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming From: pascal Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers. Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering? Thanks! Pascal http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this. I had an idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain cells to think about something else now. Thanks all! Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > > > Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the > biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe > clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone > again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card, > they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) > to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with > the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any > of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you are > planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the > process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should > be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy > process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. > Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and > imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u! > ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good enough, > I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the process that > has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal work method I > have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for the best prep. > This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the parts. > > Rick Sked > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) > America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > > > Pascal, > > On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used > PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" > Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the > first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. > By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your starting > point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will > start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which > is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Let the > primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop temperature. Block sand > to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. Spray a final coat of > primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to > be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composite > pieces. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
pascal wrote: > > > *From:* pascal > *Sent:* Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* canopy top smoothing/priming > > Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy > top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a > "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I > am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers. If you really want it to come out nice, you need the multiple layers ..... you'll be sanding most all of it off, but it really needs to be done. > Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I > gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont > get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some > balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be > considering? I wouldn't do the epoxy route because it won't be smoother than the top is now, and you do not want to trap air in the pinholes .... the chances of them creating bubbles down the road is high. Sanding out the Smooth Prime is much easier than sanding the epoxy. It's a lot of work and it's messy (dusty) but the Smooth Prime is my choice, followed by a urethane primer for the paint to adhere to. Linn > Thanks! > > Pascal > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Van's and Loehle aviation were raving about the Loehle product called Wonderfil to take care of the pinholes, there was an article in the latest RVator. I plan to try it. -Chris Lucas #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > > Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this. I had > an idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain cells to think > about something else now. > Thanks all! > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > >> >> >> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the >> biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe >> clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone >> again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card, >> they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) >> to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with >> the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any >> of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you >> are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will >> start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first >> coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need >> and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is >> usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave >> and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u! >> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good >> enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the >> process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal >> work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for >> the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the >> parts. >> >> Rick Sked >> 40185 >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) >> America/Los_Angeles >> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming >> >> >> Pascal, >> >> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I >> used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a >> 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply >> the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin >> holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your >> starting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The >> roller will start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the >> primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the >> primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop >> temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. >> Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 >> pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on >> all other composite pieces. >> >> Jim Berry >> 40482 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
I agree with almost all Rick says here ..... but instead of the epoxy, use the card to apply the first one (or maybe two) coat of _UV_ Smooth Prime (thanks Michael for the reminder) and roll the subsequent layers. That epoxy gets hard and I'm a little on the lazy side!!! You can also lightly (really lightly, like a mist) spray black paint on top of the UV Smooth Prime which will really highlight the highs and lows when you start to sand. Alternate with another dark color (such as blue) between successive coats. Linn_ _Rick Sked wrote: > > > Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u! > ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the parts. > > Rick Sked > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > > > Pascal, > > On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composite pieces. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Linn hit the nail on the head. You need atleast two different colors so tha t you can see the highs and lows when profiling the top. John> Date: Thu=2C 18 Dec 2008 14:05:34 -0500> From: pitts_pilot@bellsouth. net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top sm ot(at)bellsouth.net>> > I agree with almost all Rick says here ..... but inste ad of the epoxy=2C > use the card to apply the first one (or maybe two) coa t of _UV_ Smooth > Prime (thanks Michael for the reminder) and roll the sub sequent layers. > That epoxy gets hard and I'm a little on the lazy side!!! You can also > lightly (really lightly=2C like a mist) spray black paint o n top of the UV > Smooth Prime which will really highlight the highs and lo ws when you > start to sand. Alternate with another dark color (such as blu e) between > successive coats.> Linn_> > _Rick Sked wrote:> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Sked > >> >> > Having fil led way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water=2C wipe clean with ac etone=2C sand any gloss off the surface=2C clean with acetone again then ap ply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card=2C they are abun dunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the e poxy into all the pinholes=2C scrape the entire surface with the cards. Onc e it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill epoxy primers=2C use the same brand as the top coat you are planning to us e=2C sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the process. I d on't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should be almost sa nded away=2C rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the pinho les have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections with micro/ep oxy prime and sand!> u!> > ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or ju st say that's good enough=2C I quit. It sounds like more work than it is bu t that's the process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great w ith minimal work method I have found=2C sanding-priming-sanding-priming alw ays made for the best prep. This works well on the pants=2C cowl=2C doors =2C top=2C all the parts. > >> > Rick Sked> > 40185> > ----- Original Messa ge -----> > From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>> > To: rv10-list@matroni cs.com> > Sent: Thursday=2C December 18=2C 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) Ameri ca/Los_Angeles> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming> >> ascal=2C> >> > On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work ful l-time=2C I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applie d with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot=3B get several ). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your st arting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller w ill start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer=2C which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Le t the primer cure for 2-3 days=2C depending on your shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel=2C bits of roller foam=2C etc. Spray a final co at of primer=2C and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composi te pieces.> >> > Jim Berry> > 40482> >> >> >> >> > Read this topic online h ere:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977> >> ========================> _ =========> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: APRS Installation
Date: Dec 18, 2008
I put mine in the wingtip also. Powered from the Nav lights as it was convenient and controllable without running an extra circuit. Figured I'd always want it on at night. I used the MicroTrak 8000FA from Byonics.com and it works good. GPS antenna is RTV'd into the wingtip trailing edge and the transmitter was fitted into a piece of AL bent up at the ends. The DB9 connector was bolted onto one end and the coax supports the other end through a grommet. I used the access cover kit that Van's supplies for the stall warning switch and put a BNC bulkhead connector on the cover with the 2 meter rubber duck antenna mounted there. With the cover removed, enough of the DB9 connecter is exposed so you can change programming without removing the unit from the wing although it is only held on by 2 screws one of which is a cover screw. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Date: Dec 18, 2008
That was my RV 10 in the picture, and I can personally attest to the superb qualities of Mike Loehle's products! Grumpy N184JM On Dec 18, 2008, at 1:02 PM, Chris wrote: > > Van's and Loehle aviation were raving about the Loehle product > called Wonderfil to take care of the pinholes, there was an article > in the latest RVator. I plan to try it. > -Chris Lucas > #40072 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:44 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming > > >> >> Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this. >> I had an idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain >> cells to think about something else now. >> Thanks all! >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> >> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming >> >>> >>> >>> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one >>> of the biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap >>> and water, wipe clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the >>> surface, clean with acetone again then apply epoxy resin to the >>> entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here in >>> Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy >>> into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards. >>> Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of >>> the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat >>> you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way >>> off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing >>> because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling >>> applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals and fills >>> the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the >>> pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections >>> with micro/epoxy prime and sand u! >>> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good >>> enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the >>> process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with >>> minimal work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming >>> always made for the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, >>> doors, top, all the parts. >>> >>> Rick Sked >>> 40185 >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/ >>> Los_Angeles >>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming >>> >>> >>> Pascal, >>> >>> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full- >>> time, I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. >>> Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home >>> Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure >>> to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the >>> first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply >>> another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to >>> disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which >>> is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. >>> Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop >>> temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller >>> foam, etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think >>> I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I >>> also used this method on all other composite pieces. >>> >>> Jim Berry >>> 40482 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dimension data needed - distance behind wing to tail
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Dec 19, 2008
Looks like 13 ft. When the plane is still in the garage, it is easy to get the dimensions. Eric Gohr N410EG - Baffling -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220134#220134 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?
Date: Dec 19, 2008
Anyone find any cracks related to the SB 08-6-1 inspection yet? Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 19, 2008
Subject: Overhead console
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PTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNE PTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNEPTNE PTNEDQo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?
Date: Dec 19, 2008
I just did the SB, no use taking chances. Sort of like going up to the mountains and thinking it's warm down at sea level and not needing the jacket, but once one gets to the mountains and it's cold one regrets not getting the jacket when the opportunity was raised. Van's wouldn't have a SB if it wasn't needed in their engineering minds. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Barry Marz" <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 7:37 AM Subject: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks? > > Anyone find any cracks related to the SB 08-6-1 inspection yet? > > Barry Marz > 18735 Baseleg AVE. > FT. Myers, Fl 33917 > 239-567-2271 > blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?
Date: Dec 19, 2008
did my SB last month. #409 been in the shop for four years now...no cracks found=2C such a wise cracker.JOhn G. YEAH! FRIDAY=2C PLANE WORKING DAY.> Fr om: pascal(at)rv10builder.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10- List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?> Date: Fri=2C 19 Dec 2008 08:03:52 -0800> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "pascal" > > I just d id the SB=2C no use taking chances.> Sort of like going up to the mountains and thinking it's warm down at sea > level and not needing the jacket=2C b ut once one gets to the mountains and > it's cold one regrets not getting t he jacket when the opportunity was > raised.> Van's wouldn't have a SB if i t wasn't needed in their engineering minds.> Pascal> > -------------------- ------------------------------> From: "Barry Marz" <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com >> Sent: Friday=2C December 19=2C 2008 7:37 AM> To: "RV10-List Digest Serve r" > Subject: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?> >> Anyone find any cracks related to the SB 08-6-1 inspection yet?>>>> Barry M arz>> 18735 Baseleg AVE.>> FT. Myers=2C Fl 33917>> 239-567-2271>> blalmarz@ =====> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?
Date: Dec 19, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
To date, no one has found similar cracks upon compliance with the SB 08-6-1, Right? Just N220RV the second factory demo. John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 8:35 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks? did my SB last month. #409 been in the shop for four years now...no cracks found, such a wise cracker. JOhn G. YEAH! FRIDAY, PLANE WORKING DAY. > From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks? > Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2008 08:03:52 -0800 > > > I just did the SB, no use taking chances. > Sort of like going up to the mountains and thinking it's warm down at sea > level and not needing the jacket, but once one gets to the mountains and > it's cold one regrets not getting the jacket when the opportunity was > raised. > Van's wouldn't have a SB if it wasn't needed in their engineering minds. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Barry Marz" <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com> > Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 7:37 AM > To: "RV10-List Digest Server" > Subject: RV10-List: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks? > >> >> Anyone find any cracks related to the SB 08-6-1 inspection yet? >> >> Barry Marz >> 18735 Baseleg AVE. >> FT. Myers, Fl 33917 >> 239-567-2271 >> blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >================ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: SB 08-6-1 Got Cracks?
Does that make it a shop queen? aka hangar queen? Yup, 4 hours of moving clecos around and drilling today. On Fri, Dec 19, 2008 at 9:34 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > did my SB last month. #409 been in the shop for four years now...no cracks > found, such a wise cracker. > JOhn G. YEAH! FRIDAY, PLANE WORKING DAY. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: shoulder harness hardpoints
Date: Dec 19, 2008
Has anyone come up with a stronger method of attaching the front seat shoulder harness? The 5/16 countersunk holes don't seem that strong to me. I'm no engineer, but I would like something more robust. What has anyone else come up? Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: shoulder harness hardpoints
Date: Dec 20, 2008
I'm sure they are plenty strong. If the impact is strong enough to shear that bolt your f****d anyway. -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 5:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: shoulder harness hardpoints Has anyone come up with a stronger method of attaching the front seat shoulder harness? The 5/16 countersunk holes don't seem that strong to me. I'm no engineer, but I would like something more robust. What has anyone else come up? Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Gear Strut
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 20, 2008
Tim, My Finish Kit should be shipping this week. I'm certain I won't need the nose strut until April. If you can't find another, I'll work with you. John Goodman -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220332#220332 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: shoulder harness hardpoints
Date: Dec 20, 2008
I'll bet these attach points are designed to fail - at just the right force - so the occupant has a fighting chance of survival. I compare it to the passenger compartment of my wife's Saab 900. I gave up its life to save hers. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2008
Subject: HS attach bracket issue
From: jcumins(at)jcis.net
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; } Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: HS attach bracket issue
Date: Dec 20, 2008
send me the plans page and step so I can see where you are and try to remember what I did at that point. Pascal From: jcumins(at)jcis.net Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: HS attach bracket issue
Date: Dec 20, 2008
Just an Idea, but since it looks like they were parallel when you drilled them, just drill out the rivets...clamp them down and re-rivet. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jcumins(at)jcis.net Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Painting aircraft on the Science channel
Date: Dec 21, 2008
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
features the aircraft painting process. A few of us might learn something new on the Science Channel from Aerosmith Aviation. it is episode #16. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Painting aircraft on the Science channel
Date: Dec 21, 2008
It was on a couple days ago too. They spent most of the time on the chemical stripping process and a little time on filling misc patches. The whole segment was only 4-5 minutes. Not very detailed. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2008 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Painting aircraft on the Science channel aircraft painting process. A few of us might learn something new on the Science Channel from Aerosmith Aviation. it is episode #16. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HS attach bracket issue
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Dec 21, 2008
Another option would be to shim it back to level. When you attach the HS to the tailcone, two 1/8 shims get match drilled and placed under each bracket anyway. So adding a 3rd, thin one to the stack shouldn't be a problem. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220461#220461 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2008
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix
Hi Everyone, I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load. I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to two issues. The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy surface to mate to. The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy. I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix. So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the wheel apart. Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of 10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke. These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well, you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings. The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired. All of these new components including the hardware is made from stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance. I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the anti-rotation screws. You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a handle on how many are going to be required. Many thanks for reading this long post. Dave Hertner RV-10 Builder #10164 Effectus AeroProducts Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2008
Subject: HS attach bracket issue
From: John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Rene I did just that this afternoon and it looks like i am good to go. Bracket is re-rivited and parralel to the other. thanks so much On Sat 20/12/08 8:50 PM , "Rene" rene(at)felker.com sent: Just an Idea, but since it looks like they were parallel when you drilled them, just drill out the rivets..clamp them down and re-rivet. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- FROM: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] ON BEHALF OF jcumins(at)jcis.net SENT: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:26 PM TO: rv10-list(at)matronics.com SUBJECT: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 Links: ------ [1] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [2] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [3] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM [4] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [5] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [6] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aileron trim
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 22, 2008
Can someone tell me where Van's electric aileron trim is installed; which wing, which bay? Thanks. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220532#220532 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Merry Christmas!
Date: Dec 22, 2008
Jesse; In this wonderful season of the Lord's arrival, I pray all is well with you and your family. Merry Christ Day! Pascal and Reid Family ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Aileron trim
Date: Dec 22, 2008
I installed mine on the first access panel on the left wing. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 9:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim Can someone tell me where Van's electric aileron trim is installed; which wing, which bay? Thanks. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220532#220532 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron trim
Jim; aileron trim is on the inspection plate, left wing . You will install a couple of brackets on the aileron pushrod and the actuator screws to the inside of the inspection plate. Dr Fred. Jim Berry wrote: > > Can someone tell me where Van's electric aileron trim is installed; which wing, which bay? Thanks. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220532#220532 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Merry Christmas!
Date: Dec 22, 2008
My apologies for those who don't celebrate Christmas as this was meant for a brother in Christ! I had another one for this list and I confused them. So here is the "official" one for the list My thoughts to go to everyone on this list for a wonderful Holiday season no matter where you are in the World and what holiday you celebrate! Again sorry! Pascal From: pascal Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 8:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Merry Christmas! Jesse; In this wonderful season of the Lord's arrival, I pray all is well with you and your family. Merry Christ Day! Pascal and Reid Family ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Peter [SD]" <Peter.James(at)sprint.com>
Date: Dec 22, 2008
Subject: Measurement needed
Hello, I have vacuum bagged a circuit breaker panel to be placed in the pilot's ki ck panel area. Now that the part is done, I am afraid that I have made it so that it will protrude and possibly interfere with the pilots seat releas e handle when the seat is brought clear forward. Can someone please tell m e how far the seat comes forward of the spar/control box under the pilot's seat (if at all), especially when using the after-market seat lever? Thanks! Pete #40100 ________________________________ This e-mail may contain Sprint Nextel Company proprietary information inten ded for the sole use of the recipient(s). Any use by others is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and delete all copies of the message. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix
Date: Dec 22, 2008
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
David, Looks like a good solution to the problem. I locked the spacers to the fork with screws but I am unhappy with the fit between the seal and the spacers. Please put me down for a set. Bobby Hughes 40116 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2008 9:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix Hi Everyone, I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load. I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to two issues. The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy surface to mate to. The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy. I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix. So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the wheel apart. Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of 10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke. These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well, you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings. The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired. All of these new components including the hardware is made from stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance. I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the anti-rotation screws. You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a handle on how many are going to be required. Many thanks for reading this long post. Dave Hertner RV-10 Builder #10164 Effectus AeroProducts Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: HS attach bracket issue
Date: Dec 22, 2008
Rene' Your idea worked great. Thanks so much. Next time I am in SLC I will look you up. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 8:50 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Just an Idea, but since it looks like they were parallel when you drilled them, just drill out the rivets...clamp them down and re-rivet. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jcumins(at)jcis.net Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: DAR Blessed N475PV
Date: Dec 22, 2008
With the blessing of the local DAR my 5yr, 2 months and 1 day, 25,500 rivet project has been transformed into an airplane. I got my airworthiness certificate tonight. The first flight will have to be postponed due to some bad weather in TX last week-- I was unable to get my transition training done with Alex due to IFR conditions with 100-200 foot ceilings the whole time while I was there. I am rescheduled for the 30th and 31rst so there could be a potential first flight on New Year's day. I was lucky to get a 50 nautical mile test radius (we are very rural) and a 25 hour Phase 1 period even though I have a Mattituck TMX-540. I did not ask if he made a mistake on the testing hours. The only problems noted were no witness holes in the flap and engine control rod ends and the wires to the elevator trim servo were looser than he liked. I got what I wanted for Christmas and New Year's is looking good. I've included a picture of the new born. Sheldon Olesen #40080 Not flying just yet

      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: New Orleans
I'll be in New Orleans for New Years. (Dec 30 thru Jan 5) Any builders close by??? I don't like to spend as much time in the casino as my wife does!!! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: DAR Blessed N475PV
Date: Dec 23, 2008
Congratulations. I am sorry I couldn't make it up there while I was in MN. The weather sucked. Have fun flying off the hours then head south and visit us. It is much warmer here. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 11:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: DAR Blessed N475PV With the blessing of the local DAR my 5yr, 2 months and 1 day, 25,500 rivet project has been transformed into an airplane. I got my airworthiness certificate tonight. The first flight will have to be postponed due to some bad weather in TX last week-- I was unable to get my transition training done with Alex due to IFR conditions with 100-200 foot ceilings the whole time while I was there. I am rescheduled for the 30th and 31rst so there could be a potential first flight on New Year's day. I was lucky to get a 50 nautical mile test radius (we are very rural) and a 25 hour Phase 1 period even though I have a Mattituck TMX-540. I did not ask if he made a mistake on the testing hours. The only problems noted were no witness holes in the flap and engine control rod ends and the wires to the elevator trim servo were looser than he liked. I got what I wanted for Christmas and New Year's is looking good. I've included a picture of the new born. Sheldon Olesen #40080 Not flying just yet ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
Now That what I call a paint job !!!!!! Looking forward to your 1st flight. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Sheldon Olesen wrote: > With the blessing of the local DAR my 5yr, 2 months and 1 day, 25,500 > rivet project has been transformed into an airplane. I got my > airworthiness certificate tonight. The first flight will have to be > postponed due to some bad weather in TX last week-- I was unable to > get my transition training done with Alex due to IFR conditions with > 100-200 foot ceilings the whole time while I was there. I am > rescheduled for the 30th and 31rst so there could be a potential first > flight on New Year's day. > > I was lucky to get a 50 nautical mile test radius (we are very rural) > and a 25 hour Phase 1 period even though I have a Mattituck TMX-540. > I did not ask if he made a mistake on the testing hours. The only > problems noted were no witness holes in the flap and engine control > rod ends and the wires to the elevator trim servo were looser than he > liked. > > I got what I wanted for Christmas and New Year's is looking good. > I've included a picture of the new born. > > > Sheldon Olesen > #40080 Not flying just yet > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > >

      >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
      >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
      >
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > 
> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2008
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
Sheldon : Happy birthday! You should be one proud papa. I took transition training with Alex earlier this summer. He did a great job of showing me how to handle the 10. You will be glad you took the time to undergo the training. For me, I was driving a 152 before getting into my 10. I love your paint job. 10+ on style points and she hasn't even left the ground. Dr Fred. N515FW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: DAR Blessed N475PV
Date: Dec 23, 2008
Hi Sheldon, CONGRAT's and WELL DONE! I know it's been a long road for you, but the plane turned out really nice. Hopefully our weather will co-operate one of these days and you can come down so I can see it! Anyway, again - excellent! Cheers, Stein >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen >Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 10:00 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: DAR Blessed N475PV > > >With the blessing of the local DAR my 5yr, 2 months and 1 day, 25,500 >rivet project has been transformed into an airplane. I got my >airworthiness certificate tonight. The first flight will have to be >postponed due to some bad weather in TX last week-- I was unable to >get my transition training done with Alex due to IFR conditions with >100-200 foot ceilings the whole time while I was there. I am >rescheduled for the 30th and 31rst so there could be a potential >first flight on New Year's day. > >I was lucky to get a 50 nautical mile test radius (we are very rural) >and a 25 hour Phase 1 period even though I have a Mattituck TMX-540. >I did not ask if he made a mistake on the testing hours. The only >problems noted were no witness holes in the flap and engine control >rod ends and the wires to the elevator trim servo were looser than he >liked. > >I got what I wanted for Christmas and New Year's is looking good. >I've included a picture of the new born. > > >Sheldon Olesen >#40080 Not flying just yet > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: Rudder trim
Date: Dec 23, 2008
For those of you with or installing rudder trim, is their a kit available? I've seen a description of Vic's system (hinge on trailing edge) but cannot find a kit or a parts list. Thanks. Wayne Checked by AVG. 11:23 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder trim
No kits as far as I know, Tim has a complete write up using Vic's method. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071104/index.html Rick S, 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 4:55:16 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim For those of you with or installing rudder trim, is their a kit available? I've seen a description of Vic's system (hinge on trailing edge) but cannot find a kit or a parts list. Thanks. Wayne Checked by AVG. 11:23 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net
Subject: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm getting started on the wings and I have a dimpling question. In the tailkit I thought I dimpled the skin attach holes in the ribs so the skin dimples could fit into them. Now I don't see that instruction to dimple the same oles on the aft wing ribs in the plans. I looked on Mike H's site and he doesn't show a step for dimpling the ribs either. It seems logical to dimple the ribs if the skins are dimpled. What am I missing. Jeff Dalton Tail Kit done
Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm getting started on the wings and I have a dimpling question.
 
In the tailkit I thought I dimpled the skin attach holes in the ribs so the skin dimples could fit into them.  Now I don't see that instruction to dimple the same oles on the aft wing ribs in the plans.  I looked on Mike H's site and he doesn't show a step for dimpling the ribs either. 
 
It seems logical to dimple the ribs if the skins are dimpled.  What am I missing.
 
Jeff Dalton
Tail Kit done
 

      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2008
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
Jeff, You may want to jump ahead to the wing skin section, If I recall you match drill the skins then remove, deburr and dimple...But yes the ribs get dimpl ed with maybe the exception of the top skins at the wing root where the dou blers go, I think they are not dimpled due the the doubler/skin being machi ne countersunk but don't hold me to that. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 6:42:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs? Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm getting started on the wings and I hav e a dimpling question. In the tailkit I thought I dimpled the skin attach holes in the ribs so the skin dimples could fit into them.=C2- Now I don't see that instruction t o dimple the same oles on the aft wing ribs in the plans.=C2- I looked on Mike H's site and he doesn't show a step for dimpling the ribs either.=C2 - It seems logical to dimple the ribs if the skins are dimpled.=C2- What am I missing. Jeff Dalton Tail Kit done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: 45 degree angle on the door edge
Date: Dec 23, 2008
Does anyone have any neat tricks for putting a 45 degree edge on the inside of the doors? I'm just about to that point. -Ben ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Welcome to the RV 10 world!! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2008 05:07:42 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 23, 2008
Wow! Love the paint job! Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220881#220881 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 23, 2008
I was thinking of keeping it straight, but it looks like it won't work. So if anyone has a trick to do a perfect 45 angle, i'd be thankful... Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220882#220882 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Unexpected Workshop Contingency - Garage builders beware
Date: Dec 24, 2008
I had an unexpected wrinkle crop up in my building process and I figured I'd pass it on in case it saves anyone else some headaches. I've been building my project in my garage and things were great until about a few weeks ago. I went to the garage for some much anticipated RV-10 building and much to my dismay; the garage door opener wouldn't open the garage. After some research I realized one of the garage door springs had failed and I needed to replace the springs. The problem was that my normal building process at this stage was to densely pack the garage when not working on the plane, and to open the garage door to move idle things out of the way when engaged in building. Unfortunately, I hadn't considered the consequences of failed door springs and the fuselage and wings were blocking access to the springs for replacement. With the door inop and the garage tightly packed, rearranging the garage to accommodate this was problematic to say the least. So to those fellow builders with a small densely packaged garage such as my own, you might want to give some thought where you position the major sections of your RV-10 in relation to the garage door mechanisms before closing that garage door. Hopefully no one else has to go through what I just did! It wasn't fun. Patrick #40715 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Question about fuel sender float
From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Dec 24, 2008
I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent. My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another position than intended once the tanks are sealed. Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences. thanks, bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Wings RV-10 #40684 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Question about fuel sender float
If the arm can rotate, it's not installed completely/correctly. The sender-end of the arm should have a bend in it that goes through the sender attach point where the sender rotates to change the value. Unless they've changed senders...... -----Original Message----- >From: rleffler <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> >Sent: Dec 24, 2008 7:16 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float > > >I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent. > >My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another position than intended once the tanks are sealed. > >Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences. > >thanks, > >bob > >-------- >Bob Leffler >N410BL - Wings >RV-10 #40684 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Question about fuel sender float
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Bob, There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the float which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole at the base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation point. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float > > I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks > good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent. > > My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of > the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I > wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the > correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and > later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out > of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another > position than intended once the tanks are sealed. > > Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? > I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences. > > thanks, > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - Wings > RV-10 #40684 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Question about fuel sender float
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Ditto=2C the direction where not very clear and this is critical.> From: da veleikam(at)wi.rr.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Qu estion about fuel sender float> Date: Wed=2C 24 Dec 2008 06:54:50 -0600> > b=2C> > There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the float > which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole at the > base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation po int.> > Dave Leikam> RV-10 #40496> N89DA (Reserved)> Muskego=2C WI> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>> To: <r v10-list(at)matronics.com>> Sent: Wednesday=2C December 24=2C 2008 6:16 AM> Su bject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float> > >> --> RV10-List mess age posted by: "rleffler" >>>> I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks >> good and the floa ts clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.>>>> My concern is that the arm of th e float rotates due to gravity because of >> the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached=2C I >> wouldn't think this to be a n issue because gravity will keep it in the >> correct orientation. In the mean time=2C with the tanks in the cradle and >> later in the wing stand t he float will rotate forward in the tank and out >> of position. My concer n is that the float may get stuck in another >> position than intended once the tanks are sealed.>>>> Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? >> I'm interested in hearing about other's experien ces.>>>> thanks=2C>>>> bob>>>> -------->> Bob Leffler>> N410BL - Wings>> RV -10 #40684>>>>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:>>>> http://forums.matroni ========================> _ ===============> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Question about fuel sender float
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Bob don't worry the new arms are cheap. like a buck or two. Ask me how I know. Of course shipping and waiting for them isn't. -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:03 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float Ditto, the direction where not very clear and this is critical. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Question about fuel sender float
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Thanks! I must have missed that step in my rush to get done before leaving for the holiday. > > From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> > Date: 2008/12/24 Wed AM 07:54:50 EST > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float > > > Bob, > > There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the float > which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole at the > base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation point. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA (Reserved) > Muskego, WI > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:16 AM > Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float > > > > > > I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks > > good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent. > > > > My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of > > the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I > > wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the > > correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and > > later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out > > of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another > > position than intended once the tanks are sealed. > > > > Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? > > I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences. > > > > thanks, > > > > bob > > > > -------- > > Bob Leffler > > N410BL - Wings > > RV-10 #40684 > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Missed the paint job. Could someone point me to a link that has a picture. I'd love to see how it looks. Bill Britton PS. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. If you're traveling be very careful out there!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 12:42 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV > > Wow! Love the paint job! > > Lenny > #40803 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220881#220881 > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 11:23 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 24, 2008
My way of dealing with the 45 degree door edge was to eliminate it, as I was concerned that the edge would not hold up well to repeated opening and closing. I squared off the door edge, then built up the adjoining cabin top edge to match. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220942#220942 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge
I strongly endorse Jim's suggestion. The doors are one of the most difficult tasks in the build, and I've yet to see a set that match anywhere close to the way the alum parts do. so you have to do some composite work anyway to make them fit decent. Sand the doors back until they clear the cabin cover, then cover the door edges with duct tape, close/secure the door, and then build up the cabin cover frame by squeegeeing in a Flox mixture, let it cure, then sand flush with an orbital sander and some 80 grit. then reverse the process (duct tape on the cabin cover) and then build up any low spots on the doors and after cure sand as above. I just helped another builder with this and his doors are turning out great. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Jim Berry wrote: > > My way of dealing with the 45 degree door edge was to eliminate it, as I was concerned that the edge would not hold up well to repeated opening and closing. I squared off the door edge, then built up the adjoining cabin top edge to match. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Subject: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge
Date: Dec 24, 2008
Ben Here is was I used, see attached. The blocks were cut from 3/4" MDF, one for the door and one for the door frame. The Perma-Grit sanding boards, one coarse & one fine, are clamped to the blocks as needed. Clean the sanding boards regularly. Hope this helps. John ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben Westfall To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: 45 degree angle on the door edge Does anyone have any neat tricks for putting a 45 degree edge on the inside of the doors? I'm just about to that point. -Ben __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3715 (20081224) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 24, 2008
And I strongly endorse what Deems said, with one modification. You can build up both the door edge and cabin edge in one step by doing the following; Place 3 layers of duct tape on the door edge, perpendicular to the outer surface of the door. With a razor blade, trim the duct tape flush with the outer surface of the door. Close and lock the door shut( your door pins and receivers should already be adjusted to their final position). With a plastic spreader wide enough to bridge the low spots on the door and cabin edge, spread flox to fill all the low spots on both the door and cabin side of the duct tape. Unlock the door and open it just enough to to break the surface over the duct tape. This will disrupt the surface of the flox slightly, but it will be easy to fix. After the flox cures shut the door and lock it. Sand with a block long enough to bridge both door and cabin(maybe 12' long). Open the door, remove the duct tape, and touch up the edges with micro mixed with a little flox( about 4 to 1 ratio of micro to flox. This will give the edges more strength than plain micro, so that the edges won't chip out with use of the door). It is much easier to get a smooth door to cabin transition by floxing and sanding both at the same time. Three layers of duct tape will give you a consistant gap of about 0.020" With primer and paint, that gap will be very small. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220958#220958 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 25, 2008
Subject: Happy Holidays!
Merry Christmas everyone and have a safe 2009! [cid:image003.jpg(at)01C9665D.92B38500] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Happy Holidays!
Date: Dec 25, 2008
Merry Christmas! Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Happy Holidays! Merry Christmas everyone and have a safe 2009! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Flyer in New Zealand(Neil?)
Date: Dec 25, 2008
I will be heading to New Zealand for a trip of a life time with my wife and daughter at the end of March 2009. I had a wild idea that maybe I could in vite myself and my family to a scenic ride in Neil's Rv10 painted in the sc heme of the Space Shuttle as it re enters earth's atmosphere. I know we wil l have way too much to see in the seventeen days we will be there=2C we wil l be planning on more time in the south than in the north but we will be in both places. Since my 10 is in that 90 percent completed=2C 90% to go stat e=2C what better way to give the family a preview and what better way would there be to see some of New Zealand's beauty. What say you????Merry Christ mas and happy holidays to you all...sorry for inviting myself and doing it publicly=2C but I don't have the email address.John Gonzalez=2C Do Not Arch ive ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 26, 2008
To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have trim position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Cleanup of Proseal
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Merry Christmas To All! II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic? Cheers Les #40643 - Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Fuel Sender Calibration
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Merry Christmas to All! I have been reading with interest the various threads regarding fuel senders especially with respect to QB wings. I do have a couple of questions for the list. * I want to test my sender movement after installation. Given that the resistance ranges from 32-250 ohms, I thought I would test the empty tank resistance and then flip the tank upside down and test again. Is this a reasonable way to test the travel? * I like John G's idea to flush the tanks with water and then blow fresh air through to dry out them out. Is there any downside to this approach? Cheers Les #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Les, MEK is your best bet..not that nasty just use nitrile gloves and avoid the vapors..its biggest hazard is absorption (transdermal) and use in non ventilated confined spaces. It doesn't dissolve the proseal but transfers it to the cloth used to wipe it off...safety glasses are a plus if you're a splasher!! Rick S 40185 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2008 11:31:58 Subject: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Oscillating Tools
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Merry Christmas to All! I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster. Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a while and am going through withdrawal. Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Subject: Oscillating Tools
The Fein MultiMaster is a the top of the list of nice to haves for a lot of the composite guys, many of them think it's a must have. It works just like the tool used to cut casts off. I have one and it is by far the easie st thing to use on the fiberglass and acrylics we deal with. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 1:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools Merry Christmas to All! I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster. Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a while and am going through withdrawal. Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Oscillating Tools
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Michael Thanks for the info. I have been doing a bit of digging and found out that Dremel et al have been introducing their own versions as the Fein patent just expired (Sept 08). The Dremel has the same size motor but is not quite a "worksite ready" type of tool as is the Multimaster (based on the reviews I have found). Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: December-26-08 12:48 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools The Fein MultiMaster is a the top of the list of nice to haves for a lot of the composite guys, many of them think it's a must have. It works just like the tool used to cut casts off. I have one and it is by far the easiest thing to use on the fiberglass and acrylics we deal with. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 1:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools Merry Christmas to All! I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster. Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a while and am going through withdrawal. Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - some assembly required <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fuel Sender Calibration
Date: Dec 26, 2008
I bought a new shop vac for this purpose because I didn't want to be blowin g dust into the tank. I did this in summer or fall as the humidity level is extremely low at those times and air temps are higher.JOhn GFrom: kearney@ shaw.caTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender Calibrati onDate: Fri=2C 26 Dec 2008 11:43:10 -0700 Merry Christmas to All! I have been reading with interest the various threads regarding fuel senders especially with respect to QB wings. I do have a cou ple of questions for the list. I want to test my sender movement after installation. Given that the resistance ranges from 32- 250 ohms=2C I thought I would test the empty tank resistance and then flip the tank upside down and test again. Is this a reasonable way to test the travel? I like John G=92s idea to flush the tanks with water and then blow fresh air through to dry out them out. Is there any downside to this approach? Cheers Les #40643 ' some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 26, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
Depends on whether it is cured or not. While it is wet, isopropyl alcohol works, but not after curing. There is a solvent that is used for removing it from tanks, but it is very pricey(perhaps $50 a gal). If you just want it off a tool or part and they won't otherwise be harmed by a dunk in carburetor cleaner, it will dissolve it. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Probably good for cleaning clecos. MEK is not very effective on cured PRC. On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 11:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote: > Merry Christmas To All! > > > II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove > proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly > nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic? > > > Cheers > > > Les > > #40643 Some assembly required > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 26, 2008
FWIW...there isn't any chemical that can thin or dissolve proseal...MEK allows the sealant to be transferred from the metal to the rag...Denatured alcohol...in the precure stage...or working time frame can clean it but it is not the most practical way to clean up..MEK is still the best and the stuff we used on fighters to wipe excess and clean areas that proseal didn't belong Rick S 40185 ------Original Message------ From: Kelly McMullen Sender: ReplyTo: Rv Sent: Dec 26, 2008 1:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal Depends on whether it is cured or not. While it is wet, isopropyl alcohol works, but not after curing. There is a solvent that is used for removing it from tanks, but it is very pricey(perhaps $50 a gal). If you just want it off a tool or part and they won't otherwise be harmed by a dunk in carburetor cleaner, it will dissolve it. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Probably good for cleaning clecos. MEK is not very effective on cured PRC. On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 11:31 AM, Les Kearney wrote: > Merry Christmas To All! > > > II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove > proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly > nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic? > > > Cheers > > > Les > > #40643 Some assembly required > > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 26, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
Yes, there is a variety of chemicals that disolve proseal. I don't have the brand name handy. See: http://www.willmarairservice.com/tank.php On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 2:36 PM, wrote: > > FWIW...there isn't any chemical that can thin or dissolve proseal...MEK allows the sealant to be transferred from the metal to the rag...Denatured alcohol...in the precure stage...or working time frame can clean it but it is not the most practical way to clean up..MEK is still the best and the stuff we used on fighters to wipe excess and clean areas that proseal didn't belong > > Rick S > 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
Date: Dec 26, 2008
I use my GRT EFIS for elevator and aileron trim indication. Work great and they are very useful....preflight being the most useful time. I have a separate indicator for the rudder trim......not sure it is as useful. The rudder trim does not have much authority and I just center the ball with it once I get into a steady state....climb, decent or level flight. Also, I did not put in a flap indicator and I regret it. I am doing it this annual. I put markers on my flaps and use the P-1 LOT device (pilot..me), but don't like having to turn my head to see the flaps during pre landing checks. I have a flap positioning system, but like to check flap position on final...... Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 9:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have trim position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Rene' Thanks for the info. Your response prompts another question. I am just finishing up my rudder trim a la Tim, Vic and others. They both used 11" of hinge for their tab. If you do not have enough rudder trim authority, how much tab do you have and how much do you think it would take to have enough authority? If I am going to need more tab, now would be the ideal time to change it. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221282#221282 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
Date: Dec 26, 2008
Bill, Since you asked to see a pic of my plane, here it is. First flight should be around New Year's day. Gotta get that transition training done first. Sheldon Olesen On Dec 24, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > > > Missed the paint job. Could someone point me to a link that has a > picture. I'd love to see how it looks. > > Bill Britton > > PS. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. If you're > traveling be very careful out there!!! > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lenny Iszak" > > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 12:42 AM > Subject: RV10-List: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV > > >> >> >> Wow! Love the paint job! >> >> Lenny >> #40803 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220881#220881 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > ---------- > > > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > 11:23 AM > >

      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Brake system questions.
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 26, 2008
A couple of questions for the brain trust. I am about to begin the chapter on the brake system. My first question concerns the pros/cons of a sealant whilst mating the connectors. Van's says okay, but not necessary, and to never use teflon tape. They say they don't use any sealant for the connections in their shop. My second question is wondering if anyone has any comment/experience in using the stainless steel braided lines versus the plastic tubing, for the actuators. Anyone have experience with the www.nonstopaviation.com brake line kit? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221303#221303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan & Tania" <etandrews(at)westnet.com.au>
Subject: First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Hi Everyone, We are pleased to advise that our RV-10 "VH-OSH" had its first flight at 10:30am on 17 Dec 2008 at Hervey Bay Airport in Queensland, Australia (yippee!!). We had to pinch ourselves a few times for it to really sink in. The OSH call sign came about when you were all busy organising the RV10 group gathering for OSH 2008 earlier this year. We simply couldn't resist using this registration for our plane when it was available at that time! Someday we hope to get over to OSH to meet everyone. The project began for us in Jan 2007 with the purchase of a partially completed empennage kit. We assembled our aircraft in a makeshift 9m x 3m gazebo in our small back garden (she got a big large for our double garage). Regular support and help was provided by Colin Crittenden (General Build and Test Pilot) and Jake Jansen (Avionics). VH-OSH now has 27hrs of flight time and is performing well. For those who are interested, we put in: Mattituck Lycoming TMX IO-540 ( with one Lightspeed Plasma IIIB ignition) Hartzel Prop Dynon EFIS (D100) and EMS (D120) PMA4000 Audio Panel Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com Garmin 327 Transponder Trio EZ auto pilot 740kg empty weight with paint and upholstery. Kindest regards and happy flying! Evan and Tania Andrews Queensland, Australia VH-OSH now Flying!!!!! 40379 E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11420 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Myron, I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes... If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on the first thread. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
Date: Dec 27, 2008
I recently finished my phase one flying and I found that I did not pay much attention to the rudder trim indicator. The aileron trim indicator was something I would reset after refueling, but did not really need it.. Pitch trim indicator, I used every takeoff. All three indicators are shown on the Vertical Power display in my airplane. David Maib 40559 On Dec 26, 2008, at 11:30 AM, Jim Berry wrote: > > To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have > trim position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks. > > Jim Berry > 40482 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
Date: Dec 27, 2008
also try removing most of it with a plastic serrated knife and clean up with lacquer thinner. On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:31 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > Merry Christmas To All! > > II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove > proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like > particularly nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is > effective and less toxic? > > Cheers > > Les > #40643 ' Some assembly required ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Standard practice is to use something like Seal Lube on the pipe thread (tapered thread) fittings which lets you get them tighter with less torque while helping to seal the threads as well. Flare fittings don't need sealant because they don't seal on the threads, but rather on the flared portion. I have never used other than the plastic lines as the plans call for. As mentioned, it helps detect a leak and also greatly helps bleading them in the first place because you can see air in the lines as fluid pumps through them. On the gear legs I have used the plans way and the Bonaco lines. IMHO, the solid lines will last longer if you keep them from chafing. The Bonaco lines have a rubber outer coating to b prevent chafing. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2008, at 10:27 PM, "woxofswa" wrote: > > A couple of questions for the brain trust. > > I am about to begin the chapter on the brake system. > > My first question concerns the pros/cons of a sealant whilst mating > the connectors. Van's says okay, but not necessary, and to never > use teflon tape. They say they don't use any sealant for the > connections in their shop. > > My second question is wondering if anyone has any comment/experience > in using the stainless steel braided lines versus the plastic > tubing, for the actuators. Anyone have experience with the www.nonstopaviation.com > brake line kit? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221303#221303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cabin Top Countersink
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Does anyone know the whereabouts of the traveling countersink for the shoulder harness attach point? It's that time for me and I would like to be added to the list. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221386#221386 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Drilling Control Stick
Date: Dec 27, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Holy Moley! =C2-What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control s tick/base assembly?? =C2-It's killing my bits -- I've had to re-sharpen mo re than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru even the first assembly! Jim Gilmore #40317 Legacy fuse complete/installing systems ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Drilling Control Stick
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Try some Boelube or cutting oil on the drill bit. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfg(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 5:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Drilling Control Stick Holy Moley! What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had to re-sharpen more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru even the first assembly! Jim Gilmore #40317 Legacy fuse complete/installing systems _____ Get a free MP3 every day with the Spinner.com Toolbar. Get <http://toolbar.aol.com/spinner/download.html?ncid=emlweusdown00000018> it Now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Top Countersink
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Hey Dave, It took some searching (my wife periodically rearranges and throws away "clutter" if I happen to leave stuff in the house instead of in the shop), but I have the traveling countersink in hand. Send your mailing address to me at: lewgall(at)charter.net and I'll send it to you. If others are ready, let me know and I'll start another circuit. If you are using Van's seat belts, all you need is your canopy to go ahead and drill and countersink the two hard spots -- you don't have to have fitted it yet. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting when it's 60+ degrees! Piddling with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221405#221405 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Drilling Control Stick
Date: Dec 27, 2008
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From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
I'll second the vote for the Bonaco kit. Back in May I paid $185 for them shipped and it came with new lines and fittings to replace the plastic lines. They also came with lines to run down the gear legs to replace those hard lines. They are SS Teflon lines with an anti chafe clear plastic sleeve. I was really impressed with how small they were as I've seen others that were quite bulky. Contact Brett for more info, brett(at)bonacoinc.com. Great stuff and great people to work with. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 3:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. Myron, I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes... If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on the first thread. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Jeff, That's a tough place to put them. I'm sure that you are aware that most of us have put them outboard of the centerline where there is no interference. The cables are stiff and don't easily bend. While you could use a 90 degree (elbow) coax connector, I don't think the clearance is there. Try a mock-up to get the height of the plates and connector to see if it fits. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221417#221417 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2008
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel
Jeff, I have mounted a couple of antennas in the center under the puss rods. The first is the transponder antenna just forward of the main spars and the other is the marker beacon antenna under the flap motor area. Both went in with 90 deg. BNC fittings and there was about a finger thickness of clearance between the top of the connector and the push rod. Dave Hertner RV-10 # 40164 Working on the wiring and cabin overhead console. nukeflyboy wrote: > > Jeff, > That's a tough place to put them. I'm sure that you are aware that most of us have put them outboard of the centerline where there is no interference. The cables are stiff and don't easily bend. While you could use a 90 degree (elbow) coax connector, I don't think the clearance is there. Try a mock-up to get the height of the plates and connector to see if it fits. > > -------- > Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221417#221417 > > > > > > > > > > > -- Dave Hertner President Effectus AeroProducts Inc. Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com Phone: (519) 933-2055 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Drilling Control Stick
From: "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Get some Boelube. It make drilling the steel MUCH easier. I got a small container of the paste and it has been used by myself and four other builders. Still have a bunch left. I don't remember where I bought it, but it really does the trick. Cool Tool also works well. It is a product used by machinists. A little of either product goes a long way. Use it on taps too. Jim Combs 40192 N312F > Holy Moley! What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control > stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had to re-sharpen > more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru even the first assembly! > > > Jim Gilmore #40317 > > Legacy fuse complete/installing systems > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Drilling Control Stick
From: "DejaVu" <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net>
Remember too that low rpm works better on steel. Anh N591VU > > > Get some Boelube. It make drilling the steel MUCH easier. I > got a small container of the paste and it has been used by myself and four > other builders. Still have a bunch left. > > I don't remember > where I bought it, but it really does the trick. Cool Tool also > works well. It is a product used by machinists. > > A little > of either product goes a long way. Use it on taps too. > > Jim Combs > 40192 > N312F > >> Holy Moley! > What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control >> stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had > to re-sharpen >> more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru > even the first assembly! >> >> >> Jim Gilmore > #40317 >> >> Legacy fuse complete/installing systems >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Drilling Control Stick
Date: Dec 28, 2008
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Thanks to all who chimed in. =C2-I had been using standard machine oil to lube the drilling process, which did not seem to help much. =C2-Where can the Boelube be purchased?=C2-=C2-=C2-I did realize the speed of my dri ll press was too high, and reducing it seemed to finally do the trick. =C2 -Both sticks are now drilled, but it took much longer than I would have ev er dreamed. Jim Gilmore, #40317 Wings & legacy fuse complete/installing systems/almost to fiberglass hell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <n520tx(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Drilling Control Stick
Date: Dec 28, 2008
You can get Boelube from Spruce or Avery Tools. My stocking contained a tube of the solid as well as a bottle of the liquid (from AveryTools). http://www.averytools.com/p-485-boelube--90-liquid-lubricant.aspx http://www.averytools.com/p-487-boelube--dry-lubricant.aspx Drill bits last a *lot* longer when this stuff is applied. Also, use it on the fasterners threads when screwing them into nutplates for the first time - makes it go much smoother. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: jfg(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 3:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Drilling Control Stick Thanks to all who chimed in. I had been using standard machine oil to lube the drilling process, which did not seem to help much. Where can the Boelube be purchased? I did realize the speed of my drill press was too high, and reducing it seemed to finally do the trick. Both sticks are now drilled, but it took much longer than I would have ever dreamed. Jim Gilmore, #40317 Wings & legacy fuse complete/installing systems/almost to fiberglass hell ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Get a free MP3 every day with the Spinner.com Toolbar. Get it Now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Cleanup of Proseal
Date: Dec 28, 2008
Hi Rob Your suggestion worked like a charm. The lacquer thinner did a nice job of softening up the proseal so it could be wiped off (after removing all but the surface layer with a plastic putty knife). Thanks for the advice Les #40643 - Some assembly required _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj Sent: December-27-08 5:55 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal also try removing most of it with a plastic serrated knife and clean up with lacquer thinner. On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:31 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Merry Christmas To All! II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic? Cheers Les #40643 - Some assembly required http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 28, 2008
Jeff, I had planned on doing the same, but gave up on it. At your forward location there is 5/8" clearance; the aft location has 3/4". Not enough room for even a 90 degree connector. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221495#221495 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cleanup of Proseal
Date: Dec 28, 2008
You are welcome. On Dec 28, 2008, at 11:28 AM, Les Kearney wrote: > Hi Rob > > Your suggestion worked like a charm. The lacquer thinner did a nice > job of softening up the proseal so it could be wiped off (after > removing all but the surface layer with a plastic putty knife). > > Thanks for the advice > > Les > #40643 ' Some assembly required > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj > Sent: December-27-08 5:55 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal > > also try removing most of it with a plastic serrated knife and clean > up with lacquer thinner. > > On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:31 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > > > Merry Christmas To All! > > II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove > proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like > particularly nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is > effective and less toxic? > > Cheers > > Les > #40643 ' Some assembly required > http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch ref= > "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Na vigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Top Countersink
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 28, 2008
OK the countersink is soon to be on the road again! 1) Dave Moore TX 2) Chris Hukill NV 3) John Goodman GA Let me know quickly if there are others that want in, since I include a list and mailing labels when I send it out -- hopefully tomorrow. '09 should be an interesting year! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting when it's 60+ degrees! Piddling with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221523#221523 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2008
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: RV-10 Interior Door Handles
A while back someone was offering=C2-after market interior door handles f or the RV-10.=0A=0ACould anyone please tell me who this might be.=C2- Any contact details would be very much appreciated please.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0A =0A=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdeliade, South Australia=0AS/No. 40299=C2-=C2- V H-XPP=0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most with a sm arter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Interior Door Handles
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Dec 28, 2008
Patrick, See this link: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=49441 -------- Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221570#221570 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
Date: Dec 29, 2008
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I've been thinking of using these.... Does anyone have any experience with them? http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-brake-lines-p-14588.html Thanks, Phil -----Original Message----- From: Lenny Iszak [mailto:lenard(at)rapiddecision.com] Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 3:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. --> Myron, I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes... If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on the first thread. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 29, 2008
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
Take note that that one does NOT come with the AN fittings. For those you will need: http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-brake-lines-p-14589.html Why not just go with the Bonaco lines which are less expensive ($20 less with shipping when I got them), and come with all the fittings, in addition to the lines to run down the legs, and a anti chafe sleeve on all the lines? Not to mention Bonaco does lines for a living. If you don't want the gear leg runs you can let Brett know and that will knock another $45 off the price. I would also find out what the core of those lines are, I believe Bonaco's are Teflon. If you don't get lines with an anti chafe on them, make sure you protect any locations that the brake lines touch. Stainless braid will act like a hacksaw if it moves against another material. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 7:28 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. I've been thinking of using these.... Does anyone have any experience with them? http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-brake-lines-p-14588.html Thanks, Phil -----Original Message----- From: Lenny Iszak [mailto:lenard(at)rapiddecision.com] Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 3:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. --> Myron, I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes... If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on the first thread. Regards, Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2008
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: New Year's Price increase
I know Van's set Jan 1 for next price adjustment. Has anything been announced as to how much the increase might be? Not quite ready to order next kit, but if the difference is big enough, might anyway. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Brake system questions.
Another little known fact is that Brett (Bonaco) has a variety of colors for the teflon sleves. I ordered black for the brake cylinders themselves. (They even have Hot Pink, to satisfy your wildest interior design plans! Deems RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > Take note that that one does NOT come with the AN fittings. For those you will need: > > http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-brake-lines-p-14589.html > > Why not just go with the Bonaco lines which are less expensive ($20 less with shipping when I got them), and come with all the fittings, in addition to the lines to run down the legs, and a anti chafe sleeve on all the lines? Not to mention Bonaco does lines for a living. If you don't want the gear leg runs you can let Brett know and that will knock another $45 off the price. I would also find out what the core of those lines are, I believe Bonaco's are Teflon. If you don't get lines with an anti chafe on them, make sure you protect any locations that the brake lines touch. Stainless braid will act like a hacksaw if it moves against another material. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil > Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 7:28 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. > > > I've been thinking of using these.... Does anyone have any experience > with them? > > http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-brake-lines-p-14588.html > > > Thanks, > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Lenny Iszak [mailto:lenard(at)rapiddecision.com] > Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 3:24 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions. > > --> > > Myron, > > I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes > the blue fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I > remember correctly the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks > before that I paid $120 for a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta > love experimental airplanes... > > If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread > sealants. Using that information I decided to use teflon paste, making > sure not to get it on the first thread. > > Regards, > Lenny > #40803 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: New Year's Price increase
Date: Dec 29, 2008
you can call Van's and ask if they know yet. I think it's usually around 3% or so To give you a comparison, increase last year (2007-2008) which may not apply again this year Tailcone $125 Wings $245 Fusellage $815 Finish $ 310 I think Van's made some changes to the fusellage that resulted in the large increase, I don't have the 2006 pricing to compare how much that kit went up in 2007 from 2006. Pascal From: Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 6:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: New Year's Price increase I know Van's set Jan 1 for next price adjustment. Has anything been


December 08, 2008 - December 29, 2008

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