RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eb
January 09, 2009 - Present
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
Ron,
1. I haven't yet put nitrogen in my tires however yesterday when I went
to the hangar to fly my tires were low again and after some cussing I
made the decision that I'm putting nitrogen in the tires yet this week.
I have a good friend who is an A&P and runs an FBO and he maintained my
previous certified planes and I never had this low tire problem. He
always filled my tires then with nitrogen. He told me it will probably
stop 75% of the air loss I'm experiencing.
I'm going to take off the wheel pants and fly over to a nearby airport
and have a shop over there put in the good stuff. All repair shops
should have nitrogen because they need it for the struts on some of the
planes.
2. Yes I did installed static wicks. There was a write up, I believe
from this forum, on where to install them. I have instructions on this
at my hangar if you can't find it.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Subject: Old subject revisited
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that
prompts
some questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires.
I
have not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate
very
slowly. I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through
the
rubber membrane Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what
extent does
Nitrogen only in the tires reduce deflation? Any list
experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not
building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I
used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good.
When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up
inside the
hose and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks
greater
than 1/2" between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a
ground.
Greater than 10kV in this apparently! I expect the static buildup
on
the plastic paint I now have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty
conditions here in South Oz is likely to be quite significant.
Looks
like a bit more work on bonding the control surfaces and adding
some
wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish
and
FLY!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
I have had static problems on previous planes and thus bonded and static
wicked the 10. To date no issues, but I don't expect any either.
Gary Specketer
40274 flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 9:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts some
questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I have
not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very slowly.
I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the rubber membrane
Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does Nitrogen only in the
tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the hose
and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater than 1/2"
between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground. Greater than 10kV
in this apparently! I expect the static buildup on the plastic paint I now
have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty conditions here in South Oz is
likely to be quite significant. Looks like a bit more work on bonding the
control surfaces and adding some wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and FLY!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Brian,
First let me preface my comments by saying I'm not a fan of the KMA "Audio
Panels". They do work ok, but the don't have an intercom and they aren't
stereo. Is this for a new installation in your RV-10? If so, I'd strongly
encourage you to just file the KMA and go buy a modern audio panel with a
good intercom in it....it'll save you a lot of hassle down the road.
That being said, plugging the stereo cable into a mono jack wouldn't
normally be detrimental (dependin on whether they are physically mono or
stereo jacks). If they are mono jacks, then you may have to leave the
stereo plug out one "click". If they are mono jacks it shouldn't be a
problem. Just depends on the installation and how it was put together...
Sorry I don't have any more definitive answer, but it's not something that
is black/white unless I know all of the facts.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 7:27 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
Hello Stein,
My wife and I just bought a Garmin 696 for our plane. It has a stereo
output jack for music, a 3.5 mm. We were wondering if you know if the KMA24
audio panel is a stereo unit. There are two 3.5 mm input jacks on the panel
and don't know if it would be detrimental to the 696 unit if we plugged in
the stereo cable to a mono jack, if in fact it is.
Thanks.
Brian Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
Ron,
No direct personal experience but I hear that the air stop tubes from Mic
helin or any other Butyl rubber tubes work pretty well to minimize leaking.
I'll probably run Nitrogen in mine but I haven't decided on the delivery
method yet. As I will also transfill my oxy tank I may just get a Nitrogen
tank while I'm at it. You could also take one of those little portable ai
r tanks and go to many tire shops and dealerships and see if they will fill
that up for a couple bucks. Here in the US the big new fad is Nitrogen in
auto tires so almost every dealership or tire place has on site Nitrogen s
eparators to fill customer tires for a nice little fee.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts some
questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I have
not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very slowly. I
've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the rubber membrane
Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does Nitrogen only in th
e tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a pla
stic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two pack
Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When vacuuming th
e paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the hose and metal
fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater than 1/2" between any
conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground. Greater than 10kV in this a
pparently! I expect the static buildup on the plastic paint I now have, es
pecially in the hot, dry, dusty conditions here in South Oz is likely to be
quite significant. Looks like a bit more work on bonding the control surf
aces and adding some wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and FLY!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Winglet Photo |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
It seems like I heard of an RV-10 with winglets awhile back. If I
recall correctly, I think it was in Oregon.
Does anyone have a photo of the plane?
Stop the flames! :)
I'm not wanting to build them for my plane. I'm just looking to pass
along the photo.
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Questions - Help! |
As long as it's within engine design tolerances I wouldn't lose any sleep o
ver it.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV c
rowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing in
tended. One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both pressure
s. But according to Lycoming, they are normal. So I just wanted to get a
few more opinions.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I put the Michelin Air Stop tubes in my Mooney eight months ago. They are
filled with Georgia air (that's where they were installed). So far they
have been perfect. The previous tubes needed topped-off about once a month,
a real PITA.
Steve Roberts
N2700W 1966 M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN
(still lurking, no suitable place to build my RV-10)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Kelly,
I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why are you
dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out are AD-41s which
don't need a dimple.
Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps say cut out
and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each block. Personally
I made copies so my plans would always have the originals in case I needed to
make new ones in the future.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
Hello Stein, (sending this again, as it appeared not to work right the firs
t time)
Thank you for the answer. We have been using it, and although It works ok,
I didn't know if using a stereo cable could "hurt" the 696 when plugging
=C2-it into a mono jack. I wish we had a different audio panel, but=C2-
the story is that this in a 79 Grumman Tiger we just bought last May. Befor
e
=C2-that, we owned an RV10 tail kit and completed the empennage in
a class here in Eugene, Oregon=C2-but realized how hard it would be on bo
th of us
to complete the project, given that I have carpel tunnel and our small farm
=C2-here is not sellling. We may buy an RV-10 that someone has brought cl
oser
to completion in the future, should our farm sell, because it is such a
great airplane!
In the meantime we have this affordable Tiger to fly..maybe we shouldn't ha
ve
=C2-put in a 430WAAS, GI-106A and GMX200 that we just had done a few mont
hs
=C2-back, before we knew how bad the economy was getting.. Now this Tiger
is becoming less affordable..at least it's a low-time Tiger.
Thanks Stein. Who knows what the future will hold..
Brian Preston
----- Original Message -----
From: "Inc. SteinAir" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Sent: Friday, January 9, 2009 7:24:25 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
=EF=BB
Hi Brian,
First let me preface my comments by saying I'm not a fan of the KMA "Audio
Panels".=C2- They do work ok, but the don't have an intercom and they are
n't stereo.=C2- Is this for a new installation in your RV-10? If so, I'd
strongly encourage you to just file the KMA and go buy a modern audio panel
with a good intercom in it....it'll save you a lot of hassle down the road
.=C2-
That being said, plugging the stereo cable into a mono jack wouldn't normal
ly be detrimental (dependin on whether they are physically mono or stereo j
acks).=C2- If they are mono jacks, then you may have to leave the stereo
plug out one "click".=C2- If they are mono jacks it shouldn't be a proble
m.=C2- Just depends on the installation and how it was put together...
Sorry I don't have any more definitive answer, but it's not something that
is black/white unless I know all of the facts.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
Hello Stein,
=C2-My wife and I just bought a Garmin 696 for our plane. It has a stereo
output jack for music, a 3.5 mm. We were wondering if you know if the KMA2
4 audio panel is a stereo unit. There are two 3.5 mm input jacks on the pan
el and don't know if it would be detrimental to the 696 unit if we plugged
in=C2-the stereo cable to=C2-a mono jack, if in fact it is.
Thanks.
Brian Preston
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I think he's talking about slightly rolling the trailing edges of the
control surface to close any gaps that might exist around the
wedge-shaped insert.
I don't think he's talking about the big broom-stick roll on the
trailing edge.
-----Original Message-----
From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators
Kelly,
I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why
are you dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out
are AD-41s which don't need a dimple.
Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps
say cut out and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each
block. Personally I made copies so my plans would always have the
originals in case I needed to make new ones in the future.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Ahhhh. My mistake--apologies. Not the leading edge but the trailing edge. I forgot
that you put a bend on that edge as well. I seem to recall that I just went
slow and it turned out fine (I have the vise grip style edge roller).
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223728#223728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
I bought the tubes with the 90 deg stems but I didn't like the way they fit
the wheel. The stem on the tube came out of the center whereas the wheel has
a hole offset to the side. Then stem was forced out of its natural path in
order to fit the wheel. It appears the wheel needs to be altered to make the
90 deg stem fit. Maybe all 90 deg tubes are not the same. I don't think
there is sufficient room for any screw-on extension to work.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Linn,
We looked at the 90 degree valve extension but they would not
work (too close to the center shaft and extra spinning weight). You are
saying that there are tubes with built in 90 degree valves?
http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT (did not
look for exact size)
Rats... I just found them. Sure wish I knew about them before the plane
went to paint... I would have bored an access hole.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
As Tim and others point out, if the oxygen really diffused much faster than nitrogen,
all you'd have to do is overfill the tires by 20%, and, after a while,
they'd be at the correct pressure and 100% nitrogen. (Or let then deflate 20%,
the refill with air. You'd then be at 96% nitrogen).
I believe this owt started because the airlines use nitrogen in their tires. But
that's to reduce the fire risk (not leakage problems) following a rejected takeoff
when the tires can get really hot (and sometimes blow a "fuse plug").
The new leakstop tubes are a real improvement.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223759#223759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
John,
Not sure I saw the answer to your specific question.
The standard mike configuration uses the tip for PTT, and the mike is on the middle
or "ring" connection (and both use "ground" for the return). So you cannot
use a 2 connector jack, you need the 3 connector one. But for the rear seats
you can leave the tip connection open, unless you want them to be able to transmit!.
As others noted, this is an unusual jack, 0.230".
To eliminate noise from ground loops, "float" the jacks. Buy pairs of insulating
washers, one with a rib which goes into the hole (Stein sells them), and use
them to electrically isolate the jack from the frame. Use one of the wires inside
your cable to carry the ground back to the audio panel. Connect the shield
to ground only at the audio panel, leave it float (cut if off) at the jack end.
Do the same for the headphone jacks.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223761#223761
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
In previous emails it was discussed that the hinge pinsthe come with the SS
hinges used for the cowls need to be replaced with a different pin. WHich
pin needs to be used=2C it is not stated on the plans and is this smaller p
in only used on the top hinges or the side hinges also??? There is not enou
gh provided in the kit for both if it is the SSP-120 which is smaller than
the one inside the hinges. There is one long length which is of much smalle
r diameter but that seems too narrow.ThanksJOhn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Just from memory...small pins on top, it is a sizeable diameter difference.
You will need that to be able to make the turn. Larger pins on the side and
bottom. Do not use the AL pins..they will gall the hinge if you try to pull
them in and out with the hinge under stress...ask me how I know.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 3:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cowl hinge pins
In previous emails it was discussed that the hinge pinsthe come with the SS
hinges used for the cowls need to be replaced with a different pin. WHich
pin needs to be used, it is not stated on the plans and is this smaller pin
only used on the top hinges or the side hinges also??? There is not enough
provided in the kit for both if it is the SSP-120 which is smaller than the
one inside the hinges. There is one long length which is of much smaller
diameter but that seems too narrow.
Thanks
JOhn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
Correct.
Re the foam ribs, Copying the plans introduces a dimension change,
because unless you change the enlargement, most copiers add 2%
enlargement, and how does one know the originals from Van aren't a
copy of a copy?
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 12:15 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> I think he's talking about slightly rolling the trailing edges of the
> control surface to close any gaps that might exist around the
> wedge-shaped insert.
>
> I don't think he's talking about the big broom-stick roll on the
> trailing edge.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4(at)verizon.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:53 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators
>
>
> Kelly,
> I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why
> are you dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out
> are AD-41s which don't need a dimple.
>
> Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps
> say cut out and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each
> block. Personally I made copies so my plans would always have the
> originals in case I needed to make new ones in the future.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
My HP all-in-one made copies exactly the same size as the plans (I checked)-- I
guess I got lucky. As to whether the plans are copies of copies, I don't know.
There's an easy way to check. The forward end of the ribs fit in between
the rear spar flanges. Just measure the distance between the flanges and compare
to the width of the rib template. I bet it's pretty darn close. All I can
say is I followed the plans and mine fit fine, and in 5 years since the -10
was released I don't recall anyone ever posting an issue with the templates here
or over at VAF. Granted, there can always be a first time, but I wouldn't
worry too much about it--build on!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223799#223799
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude
through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver
blocks?
_____
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the
magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,
then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper
clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about
0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with
the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage
about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm
this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair
amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks
next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins
protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the
receiver blocks?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
Ben,
I was able to rig the pins so they went through the blocks and the door
frame. I let the pin protrude from the door about 3/16" when it's fully
retracted. It still clears the door frame, and it gives the pin a little
head start to fully engage the frame.
I also put two additional notches in the plate that catches the rollpin/stop
so the handle "locks" not just in the closed position but also in the fully
open position. The stock notches are are roughly 9:00 and 3:00. The new
notches are at about 12:00 and 6:00.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude
through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver
blocks?
_____
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the
magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,
then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper
clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about
0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
browse
Forums!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
From: pascal
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with
the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage
about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm
this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair
amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks
next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins
protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the
receiver blocks?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution ===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
Ben;
The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed
position.
1/16 past the door in the opened position
it's easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch
off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.
Pascal
From: pascal
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with
the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage
about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm
this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair
amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks
next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins
protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the
receiver blocks?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution ===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
Thanks for all the responses guys.
I actually spoke w/Van himself a while back about the rivethead door
blocks/pins which is what prompted my question. He looked at them with an
eye of skepticism because he hadn't "done the engineering" on them. He
continued by saying that the door locking design was engineered to spread
the load onto the door pins through the cabin top and frame. The analysis
of the parts when engineering the door mechanisms showed sufficient strength
for the forces that the door would be subject to.
He hadn't looked at the rivethead setup closely so my understanding of what
he was basically saying was I wouldn't install them if they departed from
the original design without doing an engineering analysis of their strength.
For legality reasons I'm sure he wouldn't say "yeah they are fine". I think
he wanted to make sure that the strength of the door closing mechanism
should come from the pins passing through the cabin top and frame.
I wanted to make sure that after installing the blocks that the door pins
would still pass all the way through so the load of the door pins was still
on the cabin top and frame and not just applied to just the two AN3 bolts
that will hold the door blocks on. I think that was Van's fear with the
product. Who knows if the shear strength of the AN3 bolts is sufficient w/o
proper research? Also is the threaded in tip just as strong as the rod end?
It's always prudent to look at any modification with an eye towards "does
this modify the engineering intent of the design?". I'm not qualified to
answer that so I'm overly paranoid about modifications sometimes.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed position.
1/16 past the door in the opened position
it's easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch off
my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.
Pascal
From: pascal <mailto:pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with the
seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage about
half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm this
weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair amount
that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks next to the
aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall <mailto:rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude
through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver
blocks?
_____
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the
magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,
then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper
clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about
0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
===========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3756 (20090110) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Bob,
Your suggestions are exactly what I've done. Wires are soldered and pulled to the
"rats nest" under the rudder pedals. The actual panel avionics are still a
dream until I do some big buying at Sun 'n fun. Can anybody suggest a way to test
my new soldered jacks without any avionics?
My Finish Kit is on it's way via ABF and my upholstery from Abby shipped Friday.
Avionics and Engine choices to go.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223863#223863
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
I agree that having the frame as the core for the strength is key. The
blocks will add an extra measure of strength which would avoid the
threaded part from really being stressed/bent, per se.
One thing I am rather certain about, the mag tips will help with the
rear not closing correctly, an issue that resulted in many door issues
using the stock setup.
I am talking off of thought and not fact BTW, I still need to get the
door fully installed and tested to assure all is as I'm thinking, but I
expect it will be.
Let me know if you need any other guidance and I'll focus my build
around this section for you.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Thanks for all the responses guys.
I actually spoke w/Van himself a while back about the rivethead door
blocks/pins which is what prompted my question. He looked at them with
an eye of skepticism because he hadn't "done the engineering" on them.
He continued by saying that the door locking design was engineered to
spread the load onto the door pins through the cabin top and frame. The
analysis of the parts when engineering the door mechanisms showed
sufficient strength for the forces that the door would be subject to.
He hadn't looked at the rivethead setup closely so my understanding of
what he was basically saying was I wouldn't install them if they
departed from the original design without doing an engineering analysis
of their strength. For legality reasons I'm sure he wouldn't say "yeah
they are fine". I think he wanted to make sure that the strength of the
door closing mechanism should come from the pins passing through the
cabin top and frame.
I wanted to make sure that after installing the blocks that the door
pins would still pass all the way through so the load of the door pins
was still on the cabin top and frame and not just applied to just the
two AN3 bolts that will hold the door blocks on. I think that was Van's
fear with the product. Who knows if the shear strength of the AN3 bolts
is sufficient w/o proper research? Also is the threaded in tip just as
strong as the rod end?
It's always prudent to look at any modification with an eye towards
"does this modify the engineering intent of the design?". I'm not
qualified to answer that so I'm overly paranoid about modifications
sometimes.
-Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
The magnetic pin is more like 1/8 past the fusellage in the closed
position.
1/16 past the door in the opened position
it's easier to cut the rod than file down the blocks. I cut about 1 inch
off my rods to fit the 48/64 pins as starting reference for you.
Pascal
From: pascal
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with
the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage
about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm
this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair
amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks
next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins
protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the
receiver blocks?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -Matt
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution ===========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
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__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3756 (20090110) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi John,
Keep in mind that it might be wise to purchase at least the Garmin equipment
before SnF, as their yearly price increases are almost always put into
effect here before too long....
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 10:42 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Audio Jacks
>
>
>Bob,
>Your suggestions are exactly what I've done. Wires are soldered
>and pulled to the "rats nest" under the rudder pedals. The actual
>panel avionics are still a dream until I do some big buying at Sun
>'n fun. Can anybody suggest a way to test my new soldered jacks
>without any avionics?
>
>My Finish Kit is on it's way via ABF and my upholstery from Abby
>shipped Friday. Avionics and Engine choices to go.
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223863#223863
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
How about a price decrease to match my mutual fund/ 401K/ GE stock/unleaded
gas/ house/etc.?? Wouldn't they want to move some product? Show special?
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Audio Jacks
>
> Hi John,
>
> Keep in mind that it might be wise to purchase at least the Garmin
> equipment
> before SnF, as their yearly price increases are almost always put into
> effect here before too long....
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of johngoodman
>>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 10:42 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Audio Jacks
>>
>>
>>
>>Bob,
>>Your suggestions are exactly what I've done. Wires are soldered
>>and pulled to the "rats nest" under the rudder pedals. The actual
>>panel avionics are still a dream until I do some big buying at Sun
>>'n fun. Can anybody suggest a way to test my new soldered jacks
>>without any avionics?
>>
>>My Finish Kit is on it's way via ABF and my upholstery from Abby
>>shipped Friday. Avionics and Engine choices to go.
>>
>>John
>>
>>--------
>>#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
>>N711JG reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223863#223863
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I don't know about Garmin stuff - I'm not sure I want to go down that road. Everything
they have is too pricey and they really treated me like a leper at Oshkosh.
The minute I mentioned that a GNS430W was good enough and does it integrate
with other brands, he started looking over my shoulder....
It kind of reminds me of Microsoft. Bose is another that seems to think that they
only excrete in clean, cellophane bags pre-tied with pretty pink ribbons.
I'll look but I'll view any price increase as an opportunity to go elsewhere.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223943#223943
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
Problem is Garmin is sort of the only one that has a decent GPS/NAV/COM that
intergrates with the AFS EFIS, if you know of better options, I sure am
interested.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 4:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Audio Jacks
>
> I don't know about Garmin stuff - I'm not sure I want to go down that
> road. Everything they have is too pricey and they really treated me like a
> leper at Oshkosh. The minute I mentioned that a GNS430W was good enough
> and does it integrate with other brands, he started looking over my
> shoulder....
> It kind of reminds me of Microsoft. Bose is another that seems to think
> that they only excrete in clean, cellophane bags pre-tied with pretty pink
> ribbons.
>
> I'll look but I'll view any price increase as an opportunity to go
> elsewhere.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223943#223943
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey folks,
I was playing around with xpanel panel design tool and it looks like it will
be tight to get a set of Advanced Deck screens side by side on the stock -10 panel
without pushing the com/gps/avionics stack to the right of center. I've
seen a couple post from Rob H that shows his panel and it looks like they will
fit, just snugly. (I'm assuming Rob is flying with the larger Advanced Deck
in his 10)
So, just curious with those that are flying with dual/triple screen efis's... is
it a big deal that the avionics stack is pushed off center? If you were doing
it again, would you keep the dual screens side by side (and/or stacked) or
would you split them up and move one screen to the right side and only fly with
the one screen in front of you?
I'm flying with a Dynon d10 in the 7A and of course without the moving map I want
the 430 close.
Won't I still need to have easy access to the 430 for IFR approaches/flight plans,
etc.
Hope to finish up the baffles/cowl tomorrow. Going to have to get off the fence
and decide on avionics soon to keep this thing moving forward...
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223990#223990
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Air is funny stuff, but it acts predictably. It is a fair assumption that oxygen
doesn't react with the tire appreciably over a 30 day period, therefore the
rate of deflation is a function of the diffusion rate across the membrane. In
these physical exchanges, molecular size matters. Nitrogen gas (N2) has a molecular
weight of 28, while oxygen gas (O2)has a molecular weight of 32. This
reflects a difference in size of the molecule and based on this you would predict
that nitrogen will leak out faster. I really think that all this effort
to put N2 in your tires is bad science and wasted effort, or perhaps a way to
extract a few more $ from you from the A&P. As the previous post points out,
N2 can be used but it is driven by other reasons, not leak rate.
By the way, humid air is less dense than dry air for the same reason. Water molecules
with a molecular weight of 18 displace N2/O2 molecules which have a proportional
molecular weight of about 31 making the average fluid denity less.
The same principle is behind reverse osmosis units.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224016#224016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jebrick(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Nitrogen in Tires |
Previous thread under "Old subject revisited"
I filled my tires with nitrogen a while back and they don't leak down
anymore... not much anyway, what a blessing. At the same time, I replaced my
inner tubes with Michelin Airstop tubes, so I'm not sure how much to credit
nitrogen for the improvement.
Curt Bryan also put nitrogen in his tires with the same result...very little
leak down. But he too botched the experiment by further tightening the valve
cores just to make sure they didn't leak.
Consumer Reports did a study on this by inflating 31 pairs of tires of
various models to 30 psi. One of each pair had nitrogen, the other air. They
were set outside for one year and then rechecked. They found that on average
the air filled tires dropped 3.5 psi, while the nitrogen filled tires
dropped 2.2 psi; a difference of 1.3 psi. Yes they were careful to measure
pressure at the same temperature, etc., etc. I assume they were tubeless
tires... not sure how that would make a difference but maybe it would. But
even if you have a much greater pressure loss due to actual tire use,
landing or braking technique, or whatever; there is only a 4.3 (four point
three) percent difference in air vs nitrogen. Hardly even measurable it
would seem.
http://blogs.consumerreports.org/cars/2007/10/tires-nitrogen-.html
Airliners and race cars use nitrogen too:
Air is a mixture of gases, not a gas in itself like oxygen or nitrogen;
there is no such thing as a molecule of air. Air is 78% Nitrogen, 21%
Oxygen, and 1% other stuff such as argon, carbon dioxide, neon, helium,
hydrogen, methane and krypton, not to mention a huge list of pollutants and
water vapor. The presence of water vapor in the air naturally dilutes or
displaces the other air components as its concentration increases. Water
vapor expands and contracts with temperature changes at a much greater rate
than air. NASCAR teams use nitrogen because it allows them to more
accurately predict tire pressure fluctuation. Nitrogen fluctuates with
temperature change, but it does so less than when water vapor is present.
The FAA requires nitrogen in all commercial aircraft tires to eliminate the
potential for water vapor from freezing at high altitudes. Also, nitrogen,
unlike oxygen, is not corrosive (no oxidation) and will not support
combustion.
If you want to rummage around on the internet you can look into molecular
weights, permeability coefficients, Fick's Law of Diffusion, Henry's Law of
Solubilities, Graham's Law of Effusion, and other fascinating gobbledygook,
to find out that O2 permeates faster through rubber than does N2. So if that
is true, and you keep filling your tires with air, and the oxygen keeps
leaking out faster than nitrogen, wouldn't you eventually end up with mostly
nitrogen anyway?
jb
RV-4
Tacoma
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 5:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Old subject revisited
Air is funny stuff, but it acts predictably. It is a fair assumption that
oxygen doesn't react with the tire appreciably over a 30 day period,
therefore the rate of deflation is a function of the diffusion rate across
the membrane. In these physical exchanges, molecular size matters.
Nitrogen gas (N2) has a molecular weight of 28, while oxygen gas (O2)has a
molecular weight of 32. This reflects a difference in size of the molecule
and based on this you would predict that nitrogen will leak out faster. I
really think that all this effort to put N2 in your tires is bad science and
wasted effort, or perhaps a way to extract a few more $ from you from the
A&P. As the previous post points out, N2 can be used but it is driven by
other reasons, not leak rate.
By the way, humid air is less dense than dry air for the same reason. Water
molecules with a molecular weight of 18 displace N2/O2 molecules which have
a proportional molecular weight of about 31 making the average fluid denity
less. The same principle is behind reverse osmosis units.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224016#224016
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
6:01 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel pants install - timing and helpful hints |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am proceeding on the messy (no - no - not fiberglass dust again) task of installing
the wheel pants and gear fairings. I have departed from the plans at several
points. Suggestions
1. Fit the wheel pants before you install the wings. They will be under the wings
and access is whole lot easier earlier in the game. It is a very time consuming
task with a lot of fitting, measuring and back and forth between the wheels
and the bench.
2. I used the composite pieces left over from the windows as shim material to
"right size" the distance between the support flanges and the fairings.
3. Measure the centerline carefully. It is not always where you think it is.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224038#224038
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
I have dual AFS 3500 set up to change to 4500 with garmin 'stack' between. They
are 'shifted 'left' so all is easy to reach. I was initially concerned that
the panel lacked 'symmetry but since really appreciate how easy it is to reach
430/530 and the right AFS. The copilot still can use the right AFS and also
reach the radios. The autopilot also is in each reach, and easy to see. cheers.
larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224051#224051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
Slightly off-topic, but here is my 3 screen GRT with Stein's "center
canted left" panel blank. Fair symmetry here but still pilot optimized.
Bill "wiring it up" Watson
40605
don't archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
Larry I'd love to see pictures if you have them.
-Ben
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3757 (20090111) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Don't discount Garmin entirely because of a few bad apples. The entire
company isn't that way. After dealing with them for years now, I can
honestly say that they are making a much better effort to work with the
homebuilders. A number of their people are RV builder who are really great
guys. They have in the past year created a new department within Garmin to
specialize and focus on LSA's and Homebuilders. While the OEM guys aren't
used to dealing with homebuilders, and admittedly Customer interaction is
not necessarily some of those guys strong points, there are a number of them
who are super to deal with. They have started listening, and listening for
real. Take for example the new 240 Audio panel. They actually designed that
thing 100% around experimental and LSA aircraft. It's Garmin's FIRST non
TSO'd product that is marketed exclusively to the non-certified world. On
top of that, they made it affordable and put all the functions in (and left
out others) that WE as homebuilders asked for...period!
Anyway, please don't judge the entire company by their inability to
communicate with you as a homebuilder. You have to understand they come
from a very different world, and while they are trying, this experimental
stuff is still somewhat new to them....but give them credit because they are
trying. Aside from that, at the moment there just aren't any good
alternatives.
Me, I like the Garmin guys for many reasons. I think if you were to work
through a credible dealer you'd find your experience to be quite different.
Garmin does not sell direct to homebuilders, therefore they really count on
their dealers to help them.
In the end I'd just encourage you not to rush to judgement on the entire
company and product line because I can tell you that is not representative
of the whole company. Here's another example of things I see as a
positive....they don't fly around in corporate jets - they have to fly
themselves around in single engine piston planes just like you and me. They
have made great leaps over the past year or two with homebuilders and I can
promise you they'll continue...based one what it coming down the pipeline!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of johngoodman
>Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 6:42 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Audio Jacks
>
>
>I don't know about Garmin stuff - I'm not sure I want to go down
>that road. Everything they have is too pricey and they really
>treated me like a leper at Oshkosh. The minute I mentioned that a
>GNS430W was good enough and does it integrate with other brands,
>he started looking over my shoulder....
>It kind of reminds me of Microsoft. Bose is another that seems to
>think that they only excrete in clean, cellophane bags pre-tied
>with pretty pink ribbons.
>
>I'll look but I'll view any price increase as an opportunity to go
>elsewhere.
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223943#223943
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
i'll see if i can get the picture attached. it's a crummy picture, but only one
i have of the panel. haven't finished it yet--still trying to figure out what
kind of labeling to do. i'll take some pictures next time at the hangar
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224124#224124
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0262_127.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS - Dual screen AFS advanced deck |
| From: | "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> |
I have developed a new panel for the RV-10 I am building and it will hold 2 AFS
advanced decks side by side. Here is a picture of the prototype
mock up in my Rv-10. In this picture the backups are above but I will put them
on the left side running vertical.
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224128#224128
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv10_afs11_v6c_142.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1201_114.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Maximum Panel Hieght |
| From: | "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com> |
I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I will have a problem
with my forward stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH Products grip
and I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid having
to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward clearance.
I know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm trying
to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward movement or do I
have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give me any insight?
Thanks,
Nick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speckter(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Maximum Panel Hieght |
I have the CH sticks and needed to also reweld the bases of the sticks to make
them clear the panel.
Gary Specketer
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
>
> I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I will have a
> problem with my forward stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH Products
> grip and I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid
> having to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward
> clearance. I know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm
> trying to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward movement or do
I
> have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
> Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give me any
> insight?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have the CH sticks and needed to also reweld the bases of the sticks to
make them clear the panel.
Gary Specketer
> --> RV10-List message posted by:
"Nick Leonard"
>
> I'm hoping to extend my panel
height to 13" but not sure that I will have a
> problem with my forward
stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH Products
> grip and
I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid
> having
to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward
>
clearance. I know that others have done this with various custom panels and
I'm
> trying to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward movement
or do I
> have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
> Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can
you give me any
> insight?
>
>
Thanks
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Maximum Panel Hieght |
I have a Stein panel and had to re-weld my stick.
Here is a copy of an e-mail from Scott Schmidt, he led the way for me and
gets the credit.....
"I had the same issues. There is nothing you can do with the rigging to
make it fit. I cut my stick toward the top, purchased some steel that was
the same grade and wall thickness. I can't remember what it was, but I
called Van's and they knew. I then extended the stick about 1" and also
angled it back just a little until it didn't hit anything. I hired a
professional tig welder to help me weld it up. It turned out great and I
actually like it back where it is.
Here is a picture of the finished product.
http://www.scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/1630837#101769967
Good luck.
Scott Schmidt
Office 801-990-1252
Cell 801-718-1277
Fax 801-990-1256
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com"
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Maximum Panel Hieght
I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I will have a
problem with my forward stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH
Products grip and I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying
to avoid having to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick
forward clearance. I know that others have done this with various custom
panels and I'm trying to find out if the elevator stops will limit the
forward movement or do I have to trim the panel back up the the original
height?
Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give me any
insight?
Thanks,
Nick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "westexflyboy" <airplanedriver(at)gmail.com> |
Van's Wiring Harness comes with a fuselage part F-10110-L, which covers the wires
in the left sidewall. I have quite a few wires running down the right sidewall,
and wonder if there is an aftermarket F-10110-R that would allow for similar
routing on the right side. I suppose I could make the part myself, but trying
to avoid the hours. Anybody have any better ideas?
--------
Chase Snodgrass, CFI
Presidio, Texas
www.flybigbend.com
40820/40821
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224150#224150
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Tried to order a RHS one from vans with no success. Made one using
mirror image of the left - took about an hour and works fine.
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of westexflyboy
Sent: Monday, 12 January 2009 2:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: F-10110-R?
-->
Van's Wiring Harness comes with a fuselage part F-10110-L, which covers
the wires in the left sidewall. I have quite a few wires running down
the right sidewall, and wonder if there is an aftermarket F-10110-R that
would allow for similar routing on the right side. I suppose I could
make the part myself, but trying to avoid the hours. Anybody have any
better ideas?
--------
Chase Snodgrass, CFI
Presidio, Texas
www.flybigbend.com
40820/40821
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224150#224150
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
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attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
I just installed the Bonaco Brake Lines on the pedals today.=C2- I'm very
impressed with the quality of the product and customer service received fr
om Brett.=C2- I think it was Deems (thanks) that pointed out these are av
ailable in color as well.=C2- I chose Royal Blue to go with one of the co
lors in the interior.=C2- I have no affiliation with Bonaco, just a happy
and impressed customer.=C2- Photo is attached.
Sean Blair
#40225=C2-=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Maximum Panel Hieght |
The elevator stops won't limit the travel, you will need to modify the
geometry of the control sticks to allow for full travel.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Nick Leonard wrote:
>
> I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I will have a problem
with my forward stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH Products
grip and I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid having
to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward clearance.
I know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm trying
to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward movement or do
I have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
> Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give me any insight?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I had wanted to do the same. Instead I ran my right side wires
according to the Wiring Harness kit's procedure (at least that's what I
recall). My thick wires (2 batt/2 alt) are both run on the left under
F-10110-L along with a few other wire. I only have thin wires on the
right side and they are run up under the triangular piece common to both
sides. It's working well so far.
BTW, I didn't buy the Van's kit but did use the manual to order the key
parts. The Wiring Harness manual is very useful even if one is doing a
very custom wiring job.
Bill
westexflyboy wrote:
>
> Van's Wiring Harness comes with a fuselage part F-10110-L, which covers the wires
in the left sidewall. I have quite a few wires running down the right sidewall,
and wonder if there is an aftermarket F-10110-R that would allow for similar
routing on the right side. I suppose I could make the part myself, but
trying to avoid the hours. Anybody have any better ideas?
>
> --------
> Chase Snodgrass, CFI
> Presidio, Texas
> www.flybigbend.com
> 40820/40821
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224150#224150
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I installed the new nose wheel axle assembly from Matco this weekend.
It is a very nice piece and at around $60.00 is great price.
Here is some more info on it and pictures of my install.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38336
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants install - timing and helpful hints |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Check the centerline very carefully. I ran a steel ruler (24") from the center
rivet out to an equidistant point on the wing flange and it was a hair off. Also
in the rear part of the fuse the ribs are not proportionately spaced. Like
I said check the centerline carefully. I also did the job alone. It is a lot better
to use a thin string line running from front to back with2 people monitoring
its position.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224165#224165
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Maximum Panel Hieght |
View this previous thread.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=42513&highlight=stick+weld
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:26:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Maximum Panel Hieght
The elevator stops won't limit the travel, you will need to modify the
geometry of the control sticks to allow for full travel.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Nick Leonard wrote:
>
> I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I will have a problem
with my forward stick movement hitting the panel. I have a CH Products
grip and I have cut the stick down as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid having
to reinstall the horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward clearance.
I know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm trying
to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward movement or do
I have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
> Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give me any insight?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Maximum Panel Hieght |
At 13" you shouldn't have any problem at all. Most of the panels we do are
exactly that size (our modular panel is exactly 13"). That is only .75" more
than the standard Van's panel. More of it depends on your stick grip than
the panel, as those can add 6" to the stick. As Rene said, sometimes the
easiest is just having a new stick welded or modify your current one. Been
done lots of times!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:49 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Maximum Panel Hieght
>
>
>I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I
>will have a problem with my forward stick movement hitting the
>panel. I have a CH Products grip and I have cut the stick down
>as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid having to reinstall the
>horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward clearance. I
>know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm
>trying to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward
>movement or do I have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
>Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give
>me any insight?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Nick
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OEM Vans
parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Mike,
Here's the repost, Later, - Lew
Hi Everyone,
I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for
the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen
everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the
axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load.
I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root
problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the
steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent
out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to
two issues.
The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is
curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned
cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating
surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy
surface to mate to.
The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers
set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness
of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing
is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber
bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber
bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases
this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber
deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being
gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy.
I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham
and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the
interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called
Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to
put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked
him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix.
So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect
interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken
specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able
to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the
spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the
wheel apart.
Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of
10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke.
These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well,
you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because
it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings.
The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head
cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired.
All of these new components including the hardware is made from
stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance.
I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes
together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale
through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all
hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the
anti-rotation screws.
You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the
RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the
following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem
and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you
will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production
kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but
please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a
handle on how many are going to be required.
Many thanks for reading this long post.
Dave Hertner
RV-10 Builder #10164
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224230#224230
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I didn't wait for Van's to correctly solve the problem. I have gone with the Grove
nose wheel.
Was very easy to install and I think it removes the original problem.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224245#224245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tgesele(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Transporting Fuselage |
Does anyone have any suggestions for transporting the -10 fuselage to the airport?
I'm approximately 15 miles from the field, all on relatively congested roads.
Any suggestions or info on how others have done it are appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which address
this issue. Matco=2C $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling=2C $170.00 w
hich I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods blog guy. The
n I recall there also was another person who made the YouTube videos or are
these the same person. Which one is distributed by CLeaveland????
JOhn G.> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.ne
t> Date: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> >
- could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OEM Vans p
arts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue> > --------> OSH '08 or Bust
(busted) be there in "=3B09> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF> > > > > Read th
is topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2242
====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Tom,
Others have used snowmobile trailers, construction trailers, etc. -- has to be
8' wide. We checked into renting a trailer and found that it was a lot cheaper
to hire a tow truck (skid truck, roll back -- the kind that tilts) so we're
planning on doing that. It costs about $75 here in SC and they pick it up (we'll
secure it) and deliver it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224258#224258
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
have a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of
holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
(1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the
skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the
frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and
I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
1006 assembly.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
The one that Scott posted about is a new solution developed directly by M
atco (manufacturer of our wheels) to address the short comings of how the w
heels mount to our fork type RV's. The one that Dave Hertner is developing
is very similar and will be sold by Cleaveland.
Nothing against Daves fine work but given the one that Scott posted is ac
tually developed by Matco and is 1/3rd the price I just ordered a Matco.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which address
this issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling, $170.00 which
I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods blog guy. Then I
recall there also was another person who made the YouTube videos or are the
se the same person. Which one is distributed by CLeaveland????
JOhn G.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OE
M Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
>
>==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
Phil,
I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the longer
on meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to accept a shim
and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I have
a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some confusion
regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of ho
les=C2-that are part of the=C2-F-1006 frame".=C2- I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners (104
7's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the sk
in and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the frame.
=C2- Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and I w
ill be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?=C2-
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of 1006 a
ssembly.
============
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
I had to hire the "larger" flatbed because the little one did not carry enough
insurance to cover the aircraft. I had the avionics and engine installed which
exceeded the 100k coveage on the little tow truck. It cost me $165 to get it
to the airport for a 10 mile trip. I can't wait to haul it acrosed the county
to Boulder City for the first flight.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:05:29 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transporting Fuselage
Hey Tom,
Others have used snowmobile trailers, construction trailers, etc. -- has to be
8' wide. We checked into renting a trailer and found that it was a lot cheaper
to hire a tow truck (skid truck, roll back -- the kind that tilts) so we're
planning on doing that. It costs about $75 here in SC and they pick it up (we'll
secure it) and deliver it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224258#224258
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Tim,
Is this the Matco page?
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224271#224271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
yep
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38336
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Is this the Matco page?
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224271#224271
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Ah yes, sorry I didn't include a link before.
Also, Scott was asking on my behalf and here is an email that
they sent via him, regarding what you need to order:
-------------------------
"The WHLAXLE24 nose wheel axle is now linked on the home page
of our website. the address is http://www.matcomfg.com
We are offering them at a very good price! He will need two of the
WHLA24SP spacers as well as the WHLAXLE24 (the spacers are the 0.325
thick discs that go on each side of the axle) for the RV-10 installation
Thanks,
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg"
--------------------------
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Is this the Matco page?
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants install - timing and helpful hints |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
You can save a lot of time by using a laser level that is capable of shooting a
floor and ceiling line at the same time. Makes it much easier to determine the
fuselage centerline, then transfer it to the floor. Then establish parallel
offsets from that line for each wheel pant. The laser level also makes it easy
to establish level lines on each wheel pant.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224291#224291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Thanks Rick..
I know the 3 holes you're thinking of, and unfortunately this isn't
them. I'm talking specifically about the forward-most holes in the
stiffeners.
Those holes are shared with between:
1) The tailcone skin.
2) The stiffeners.
3) The F-1006 bulkhead (frame)
4) The aft end of the mid-fuse skin.
Phil
________________________________
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
Phil,
I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the
longeron meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to
accept a shim and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
have a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of
holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
(1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the
skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the
frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and
I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
1006 assembly.
Phil
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nitrogen in Tires |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Exactly. There are a host of reasons to use nitrogen per the previous note, none
of them have to do with leak rate, and non are particularly pertinent to RV-10s.
It's one of those things that you can do if you want (ie, does no harm)
but is of dubious value and not worth the effort and expense.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224312#224312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
John,
I make the IFLYRV10.COM parts and am also the one who tried to
describe the problem in the youtube video . Cleaveland aircraft tool has
most of my stuff available in their catalog, but I don't think mike
listed my version of the axle yet (its on my website @99$). there are
some great options for this fix, mine is based on a cessna axle style
with end cups instead of sleeves. As tim mentioned, matco has really
stepped up offering a nice setup at what seems to be nearly at cost to
manufacture.
steve dinieri
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which
address this issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling,
$170.00 which I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods
blog guy. Then I recall there also was another person who made the
YouTube videos or are these the same person. Which one is distributed by
CLeaveland????
JOhn G.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the
OEM Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
>
>==
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
Hi Everyone,
It seems as though I have been scooped in the marketplace!!
With the introduction of the Matco adjustable axle my product offering
has effectively been run outta town! There is little chance of me being
able to compete with a product being offered by the company with whom
the problem originated. This is just how things go sometimes.
I would like to inform those who had contacted Cleaveland Tools to place
a pre-order that I have canceled the product offering in fairness to
Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had ordered product already. I
would hate to have that product sit on their shelves with no interest in
them.
To those who had the confidence to pre-order my adjustable pre-load axle
spacers, Thank You. It is always gratifying to have the confidence of
your peers.
I look forward to offering other accessories and parts to the kit
builder and kit manufacturer alike.
Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gwayne" <waynepedersen4(at)gmail.com> |
> BTW, I didn't buy the Van's kit but did use the manual to order the key
> parts. The Wiring Harness manual is very useful even if one is doing a
> very custom wiring job.
Where can I get a copy of the "Van's Wiring Manual" ?
Thanks
[/quote][/quote]
--------
Wayne
RV 7 "eh?" 120 hrs
RV 10 fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224350#224350
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | gas strut installation gotcha |
I created another oops today when installing the wd-1023 gas strut attach
brackets to the cabin top. The plans say the overall position is determined
by the "best-fit". That is true but pay special attention to Figure 1 on
Sec 45, Page 16. I've attached a picture of the plans for reference.
Notice that the attach hole for the gas strut on the weldment piece is
roughly in line with the edge of the cabin top. This ends up being an
important height although not called out in the plans. If your attach hole
is higher than the cabin top edge be sure to "locally relieve" like the
plans say. If the wd-1023 is too high above the cabin top lip the gas strut
will contact the door before it can close all the way.
I installed mine too high thus I couldn't fit the C-1013 brackets to the
door. I didn't want to go to the work of filling the holes in the top with
epoxy and re-drill so I made a new attach hole lower on the wd-1023 bracket.
I'll cut the old hole off and round the bracket so it looks like the stock
ones.
Just thought I'd send this out in hopes I keep somebody else from inventing
new cuss words like I did today. Pictures attached.
-Ben Westfall
#40579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Hi,
I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
stand waiting on it.
After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
holder.
Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Battery Chassis Grounding... |
I'm mounting the battery in my RV-8 in the rear similar to the way the RV-10 is
mounted. But what's the recommend procedure for attaching the Ground cable?
I assume a AN5 bolt and aeronut, but what other hardware? Where's a good place
to physically attach it? Anyone have some pictures of their installation?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
As I recall, the plans have you leave those holes alone until you mate
up with the forward fuselage. I think the idea is that you want to
match drill them, and then dimple them after you've mated things together.
It still freaks me out that we can just butt join the fuse and
tailcone. I get the engineering but it still seems weird.
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Thanks Rick..
>
> I know the 3 holes you're thinking of, and unfortunately this isn't
> them. I'm talking specifically about the forward-most holes in the
> stiffeners.
>
> Those holes are shared with between:
> 1) The tailcone skin.
> 2) The stiffeners.
> 3) The F-1006 bulkhead (frame)
> 4) The aft end of the mid-fuse skin.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, January 12, 2009 11:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
> Phil,
>
> I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the
> longeron meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to
> accept a shim and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
>
> Rick Sked
>
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
> For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
> have a question....
>
> I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
> confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
> holes.
>
> The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception
> of holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
>
> However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
> (1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
>
> I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with
> the skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with
> the frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin
> again and I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at
> one.
>
> Anyone else run into this issue?
>
> I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
> 1006 assembly.
>
> Phil
> *
>
>
> *
> *
>
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> 3D============================================
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... |
Matt, Bob has an excellent article on his site with a pic:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html
I'm attaching 2 pics of my interpretation. You'll notice I added the
ground wire for the forest of tabs in one pic.
Thank You.
Bill
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> I'm mounting the battery in my RV-8 in the rear similar to the way the RV-10
is mounted. But what's the recommend procedure for attaching the Ground cable?
I assume a AN5 bolt and aeronut, but what other hardware? Where's a good place
to physically attach it? Anyone have some pictures of their installation?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I used two motorcycle stands from Harbor F (they were on sale). I used
a couple of 2x4s to connect them, then I threw a 4x4 board on top.
Crude but it is VERY easy to roll around.
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a
> fuse stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
Phil -
I used two engine stands from Harbor-Freight on my RV-7. Minor changes to
the aft attachment would adapt it to the -10.
Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | gas strut installation gotcha |
You'll get real anal later and look at how everyone of the 10s has a differ
ent appearence when the doors are completely opened...some the left door is
more open than the right and some the other way around. Kind bugs me.JOhnF
rom: rv10(at)sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: gas st
rut installation gotchaDate: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 16:36:09 -0800
I created another oops today when installing the wd-1023 gas
strut attach brackets to the cabin top. The plans say the overall position
is
determined by the =93best-fit=94. That is true but pay special
attention to Figure 1 on Sec 45=2C Page 16. I=92ve attached a picture of t
he
plans for reference.
Notice that the attach hole for the gas strut on the
weldment piece is roughly in line with the edge of the cabin top. This end
s up
being an important height although not called out in the plans. If your at
tach
hole is higher than the cabin top edge be sure to =93locally relieve=94
like the plans say. If the wd-1023 is too high above the cabin top lip the
gas
strut will contact the door before it can close all the way.
I installed mine too high thus I couldn=92t fit the
C-1013 brackets to the door. I didn=92t want to go to the work of filling
the holes in the top with epoxy and re-drill so I made a new attach hole lo
wer
on the wd-1023 bracket. I=92ll cut the old hole off and round the bracket
so it looks like the stock ones.
Just thought I=92d send this out in hopes I keep
somebody else from inventing new cuss words like I did today. Pictures
attached.
-Ben Westfall
#40579
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus=2C version of virus signa
ture database 3760 (20090112) __________The message was checked by ESET NOD
32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | flexible fuel lines |
Hey all,
After trying to make the bends=C2-in the solid aluminum fuel lines, I hav
e decided to go with the stainless/braided=C2-flexible lines.=C2- Can a
nyone recommend how much length to allow=C2-for the section of line exiti
ng the fuse for attachment to the tank?=C2- I assume=C2-most lines =C2
-are different on the overall dimension depending on the placement of the
fuel valve.
Thanks!
Sean Blair=C2-
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Here are some thoughts.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/index.html
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37550
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
> stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
> holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Here's the best pic I have of my fuse stand. all 2X4s .... the uprights
have a screw (protect the spar with plastic hose around the screw)
through the wing attach holes, and the blocks on the step keep it from
sliding off. One crosspiece across by the uprights. Then I added an 8'
2X4 under that because the CG went too far aft with the tail feathers
on. Note the block on the floor next to the step ..... the 8' 2X4 sags
too much and needs another caster. This keeps the fuse low so you can
lean over to work on the innards and it rolls around when I need it to.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
Is your favorite airport manager already banning experimental aircraft?
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 10:22 AM, Rick Sked wrote:
>
> I had to hire the "larger" flatbed because the little one did not carry enough
insurance to cover the aircraft. I had the avionics and engine installed which
exceeded the 100k coveage on the little tow truck. It cost me $165 to get it
to the airport for a 10 mile trip. I can't wait to haul it acrosed the county
to Boulder City for the first flight.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
Well, Rick, Kelly has a point.
If all the experimental-types on the field got together and refused to pay
their rent on a given month, buy no fuel, hire not a single instructor-hour,
not even a canned beverage out of the machine... say... Feb 09... you might
get city council's attention... I see an excuse for a community gathering;
homebuilders, local media, AOPA, EAA, AvWeb, AeroNews coverage... eggs and
livermush, biscuits and gravy (you guys know what that is?)... families,
well-wishers, bookies... Waffle House, (no)... on the ramp!... Around a pile
of shredded cardboard and discarded McNellis trash to heat the grill...
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transporting Fuselage
Is your favorite airport manager already banning experimental aircraft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | flexible fuel lines |
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IzQwMjI1DQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
In all fairness to Matco, it should be noted that Matco just
made the wheels and Vans picked them for the RV-10. Van's
designed the axle and spacers, and Van's chose to make them
the way they did...choosing not to make them fit the bearing
taper, choosing not to size the inside of the spacers for
the rubber seal....all of that. So the design flaws aren't
Matco's fault. They didn't even SEE an RV-10 application until
they worked with Scott to try to find out what they could do
to stop getting complaints about the design...so they worked
with him to come up with a better design for ALL of the
RV nosewheel kits. They HAD to come up with something, so that
their own reputation doesn't suffer from the bad design of
our original kits. This isn't a big slam on Van's, either.
They try their best to make things cheap for the builder.
The problem comes in that many people, especially people
building the higher-priced RV-10 model, aren't happy with
some of the cost compromises, and expect more. That's how
things like the axle extensions, this nosewheel fix, and
heck, all of those Rivetmaster and iflyrv10 parts came to
be....they're all improvements on the original design that
many builders think should have been done better initially.
That trim nut that goes on the trim cable access plate is
a HUGE one.....the original welded stuff is an accident waiting
to happen. If I hadn't silver-soldered mine up tough, I'd
never have felt good about it. Now you can buy a nice
replacement that is much better than the original. The
sad thing is, all of these improvements have never made it
into the RV-10 "standard package"...which would have made
it easier on the builder by maybe upping the kit price
by a few dollars, but providing you with the best in parts
right off the bat...saving you shipping, time, hassle, and
worry. With products like the Axle extensions, there are
going to be many people that don't hear about these
parts, and they'll have things like smashed wheel fairings
because of it.
Anyway, Matco wasn't the problem with the original design,
but they're part of the solution...and I think the pricing
is indicative of them trying to ensure that their company
name doesn't suffer because of an over-zealous cost-saving
attitude of our kit supplier. In the end, it's just a good
thing that there are becoming some good "standard fixes"
for the handful of shortcomings that we've found.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> It seems as though I have been scooped in the marketplace!!
>
> With the introduction of the Matco adjustable axle my product offering
> has effectively been run outta town! There is little chance of me being
> able to compete with a product being offered by the company with whom
> the problem originated. This is just how things go sometimes.
>
> I would like to inform those who had contacted Cleaveland Tools to place
> a pre-order that I have canceled the product offering in fairness to
> Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had ordered product already. I
> would hate to have that product sit on their shelves with no interest in
> them.
>
> To those who had the confidence to pre-order my adjustable pre-load axle
> spacers, Thank You. It is always gratifying to have the confidence of
> your peers.
>
> I look forward to offering other accessories and parts to the kit
> builder and kit manufacturer alike.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
You know I remember when all the aftermarket things started to come about and what
a great thing the people who made them have contributed, the trim nuts Tim
is talking about were a joke!! Mine broke off just trying to rivet them to the
plates...Has that changed? If not builder beware because it is a BIG safety
of flight issue. I think I've purchased almost all of the machined replacements
from rivethead when they first came out, iflyrv10 has great stuff too although
he wasn't around when I needed the parts. I mounted the door pin receivers
this past weekend and I have to tell you the door just sucks in and locks...I
was very impressed how they work. One thing I had to do is open the receivers
just a little, I used a sanding drum on a dremel. The machine fit of the pins/rods
was way too close to work with the movement of the door as the pins engaged.
A quick pass inside with the sanding drum proved enough to allow them to slide
in easily but still no movement once engaged. My pins protrude at least a
half inch past the vertical aluminum posts both fore and aft, I know someone
was asking if that was happening. One tip I can pass on to mark the holes for
the receivers, chop off the end of two AN-3 bolts and sharpen one side to a point.
Screw them in to receiver pointy side out. Put some masking tape where the
holes will be, Slide a piece of the door pin tubing into the 7/16 hole drilled
for the pins then slide the receiver on pressing the points into the masking
tape. The points will leave a nice dent to drill your bolt holes. Thanks Chris
H. for the idea!! Worked like a champ.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:12:36 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
In all fairness to Matco, it should be noted that Matco just
made the wheels and Vans picked them for the RV-10. Van's
designed the axle and spacers, and Van's chose to make them
the way they did...choosing not to make them fit the bearing
taper, choosing not to size the inside of the spacers for
the rubber seal....all of that. So the design flaws aren't
Matco's fault. They didn't even SEE an RV-10 application until
they worked with Scott to try to find out what they could do
to stop getting complaints about the design...so they worked
with him to come up with a better design for ALL of the
RV nosewheel kits. They HAD to come up with something, so that
their own reputation doesn't suffer from the bad design of
our original kits. This isn't a big slam on Van's, either.
They try their best to make things cheap for the builder.
The problem comes in that many people, especially people
building the higher-priced RV-10 model, aren't happy with
some of the cost compromises, and expect more. That's how
things like the axle extensions, this nosewheel fix, and
heck, all of those Rivetmaster and iflyrv10 parts came to
be....they're all improvements on the original design that
many builders think should have been done better initially.
That trim nut that goes on the trim cable access plate is
a HUGE one.....the original welded stuff is an accident waiting
to happen. If I hadn't silver-soldered mine up tough, I'd
never have felt good about it. Now you can buy a nice
replacement that is much better than the original. The
sad thing is, all of these improvements have never made it
into the RV-10 "standard package"...which would have made
it easier on the builder by maybe upping the kit price
by a few dollars, but providing you with the best in parts
right off the bat...saving you shipping, time, hassle, and
worry. With products like the Axle extensions, there are
going to be many people that don't hear about these
parts, and they'll have things like smashed wheel fairings
because of it.
Anyway, Matco wasn't the problem with the original design,
but they're part of the solution...and I think the pricing
is indicative of them trying to ensure that their company
name doesn't suffer because of an over-zealous cost-saving
attitude of our kit supplier. In the end, it's just a good
thing that there are becoming some good "standard fixes"
for the handful of shortcomings that we've found.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> It seems as though I have been scooped in the marketplace!!
>
> With the introduction of the Matco adjustable axle my product offering
> has effectively been run outta town! There is little chance of me being
> able to compete with a product being offered by the company with whom
> the problem originated. This is just how things go sometimes.
>
> I would like to inform those who had contacted Cleaveland Tools to place
> a pre-order that I have canceled the product offering in fairness to
> Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had ordered product already. I
> would hate to have that product sit on their shelves with no interest in
> them.
>
> To those who had the confidence to pre-order my adjustable pre-load axle
> spacers, Thank You. It is always gratifying to have the confidence of
> your peers.
>
> I look forward to offering other accessories and parts to the kit
> builder and kit manufacturer alike.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I copied Rick's design and am very pleased with it:
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/fusestand32.html
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 8:27 PM, William Curtis wrote:
>
> Here are some thoughts.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/index.html
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37550
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
> > stand waiting on it.
> >
> > After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
> > holder.
> >
> > Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Phil
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
Here are a couple of fotos of the stand I built. I use my aerolift to
turn the stand on it's side, which allows me to work on the fuselage
without leaning over. This is a real back saver! 2 people can easily
rotate the stand without a lifting device. It cost about 30 bucks in
thin wall 1X2 steel and a set of cheap casters.
Chris Hukill
cabin top hell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
It worked well for me and the added benefit after I was done with it, I screwed
a 4 x 4 sheet of plywood I had laying around to it and now its a roll around
storage table.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kochman" <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 8:15:12 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Stands
I copied Rick's design and am very pleased with it:
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/fusestand32.html
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 8:27 PM, William Curtis < wcurtis(at)nerv10.com > wrote:
Here are some thoughts.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/index.html
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37550
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
> stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
> holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
I sort of did too except I found that I had lots of wood from the crates
the kits came in and used all that wood. Bought the caster/wheels from
HF. Works well and is inexpensive
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Stands
I copied Rick's design and am very pleased with it:
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/fusestand32.html
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 8:27 PM, William Curtis
wrote:
Here are some thoughts.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/index.html
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37550
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a
fuse
> stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
> holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop assembly? |
I can't remember the conversation I had a few months ago with the person I
am having assemble the prop=2C and I don't have the paper i wrote the info
on=2C but what have others paid for on the assembly of the MT prop? I seem
to remember it being less significant of a price than what i am hearing now
=2C but I could be wrong. Non of what I am hearing has anything to do with
crating=2C or licensing or import fees or any of that=2C just assembly.
Thanks=2C
John G
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Just a small addition - the iflyrv10 receivers are done a bit
differently. Instead of a tapped hole that you but a bolt/screw in from
the back, they are drilled through and have a recess on the exposed
face. He supplies stainless #10 capscrews for installation and the
heads sit inside the recess. Much easier to install.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
You know I remember when all the aftermarket things started to come
about and what a great thing the people who made them have contributed,
the trim nuts Tim is talking about were a joke!! Mine broke off just
trying to rivet them to the plates...Has that changed? If not builder
beware because it is a BIG safety of flight issue. I think I've
purchased almost all of the machined replacements from rivethead when
they first came out, iflyrv10 has great stuff too although he wasn't
around when I needed the parts. I mounted the door pin receivers this
past weekend and I have to tell you the door just sucks in and locks...I
was very impressed how they work. One thing I had to do is open the
receivers just a little, I used a sanding drum on a dremel. The machine
fit of the pins/rods was way too close to work with the movement of the
door as the pins engaged. A quick pass inside with the sanding drum
proved enough to allow them to slide in easily but still no movement
once engaged. M!
y pins protrude at least a half inch past the vertical aluminum posts
both fore and aft, I know someone was asking if that was happening. One
tip I can pass on to mark the holes for the receivers, chop off the end
of two AN-3 bolts and sharpen one side to a point. Screw them in to
receiver pointy side out. Put some masking tape where the holes will be,
Slide a piece of the door pin tubing into the 7/16 hole drilled for the
pins then slide the receiver on pressing the points into the masking
tape. The points will leave a nice dent to drill your bolt holes. Thanks
Chris H. for the idea!! Worked like a champ.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:12:36 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
In all fairness to Matco, it should be noted that Matco just
made the wheels and Vans picked them for the RV-10. Van's
designed the axle and spacers, and Van's chose to make them
the way they did...choosing not to make them fit the bearing
taper, choosing not to size the inside of the spacers for
the rubber seal....all of that. So the design flaws aren't
Matco's fault. They didn't even SEE an RV-10 application until
they worked with Scott to try to find out what they could do
to stop getting complaints about the design...so they worked
with him to come up with a better design for ALL of the
RV nosewheel kits. They HAD to come up with something, so that
their own reputation doesn't suffer from the bad design of
our original kits. This isn't a big slam on Van's, either.
They try their best to make things cheap for the builder.
The problem comes in that many people, especially people
building the higher-priced RV-10 model, aren't happy with
some of the cost compromises, and expect more. That's how
things like the axle extensions, this nosewheel fix, and
heck, all of those Rivetmaster and iflyrv10 parts came to
be....they're all improvements on the original design that
many builders think should have been done better initially.
That trim nut that goes on the trim cable access plate is
a HUGE one.....the original welded stuff is an accident waiting
to happen. If I hadn't silver-soldered mine up tough, I'd
never have felt good about it. Now you can buy a nice
replacement that is much better than the original. The
sad thing is, all of these improvements have never made it
into the RV-10 "standard package"...which would have made
it easier on the builder by maybe upping the kit price
by a few dollars, but providing you with the best in parts
right off the bat...saving you shipping, time, hassle, and
worry. With products like the Axle extensions, there are
going to be many people that don't hear about these
parts, and they'll have things like smashed wheel fairings
because of it.
Anyway, Matco wasn't the problem with the original design,
but they're part of the solution...and I think the pricing
is indicative of them trying to ensure that their company
name doesn't suffer because of an over-zealous cost-saving
attitude of our kit supplier. In the end, it's just a good
thing that there are becoming some good "standard fixes"
for the handful of shortcomings that we've found.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David Hertner wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> It seems as though I have been scooped in the marketplace!!
>
> With the introduction of the Matco adjustable axle my product offering
> has effectively been run outta town! There is little chance of me
being
> able to compete with a product being offered by the company with whom
> the problem originated. This is just how things go sometimes.
>
> I would like to inform those who had contacted Cleaveland Tools to
place
> a pre-order that I have canceled the product offering in fairness to
> Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had ordered product already.
I
> would hate to have that product sit on their shelves with no interest
in
> them.
>
> To those who had the confidence to pre-order my adjustable pre-load
axle
> spacers, Thank You. It is always gratifying to have the confidence of
> your peers.
>
> I look forward to offering other accessories and parts to the kit
> builder and kit manufacturer alike.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Neat to have but.. |
This may be a little off topic but does anyone find it a bit disturbing that these are so easily obtained? I wonder how well it would work in the cockpit? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55734 Rick S. 40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Phil,
I took an old heavy-duty pallet I had laying around and put some casters on it,
then covered the top with some old carpet padding. It worked well for a while
but it tends to become a pain when you need access to the bottom.
If I were doing it over, I'd use Bill Curtis' simple plan.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit is on it's way.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224521#224521
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Neat to have but.. |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
-------- Original Message --------
> This may be a little off topic but does anyone find it a bit disturbing that these are so easily obtained? I wonder how well it would work in the cockpit? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=55734 Rick S. 40185
Why do you find it disturbing?
That's almost like a lay-person saying "they find it disturbing that anyone can
build their own plane and fly it over their heads."
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I don't know whether it has been mentioned but a wooden dolly on wheels from
home deport aviation department under each wing attach point and one under
the baggage area works fine . Total about $40.
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gas strut installation gotcha |
| From: | "LarryRosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
You also want to make sure the bracket does not interfere with the door hing nut
and bolts.
Larry Rosen
--------
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224543#224543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
I just got a call from Brett at Bonaco.=C2- He said they use a type of ho
se in the S/S braided fuel lines that is good for approximately twelve year
s.=C2- Sorry, I didn't catch the type of material.
Sean Blair
#40225=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop assembly? |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
John,
I have the three blade prop. Assembled in Deland, FL last July. Assembly was
$400. Crating was $300. Unless you're picking the prop up yourself, I highly
recommend their crating. A very substantial box with the prop really well bolted
down inside.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
#40639
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224568#224568
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop assembly? |
I had mine shipped assembled from the factory. I do not remember the
amount, but I know it was less than having it shipped to the nearest
dealer, assembled, recrated, and then shipped to me. However, I lived
in a city (Minneapolis) that had a major airport and customs office,
so it could be shipped directly to me. I bought mine through Jim
Ayers at LessDragProducts.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 13, 2009, at 12:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
I can't remember the conversation I had a few months ago with the
person I am having assemble the prop, and I don't have the paper i
wrote the info on, but what have others paid for on the assembly of
the MT prop? I seem to remember it being less significant of a price
than what i am hearing now, but I could be wrong. Non of what I am
hearing has anything to do with crating, or licensing or import fees
or any of that, just assembly.
Thanks,
John G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop assembly? |
Me too...from Jim Ayers. AND I had to hire a stinkin customs broker for $15
0 to get it out of customs.For that fee I signed a limited power of attorne
y, she made a phone call and I drove back and picked it up.=C2-Our wonder
ful public servants would not deal with me direct. Odd how the customs agen
t had a card, (read stack of them)=C2-for a broker 2 miles away in his po
cket. And you think only the crooked ones are in Illinois.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Maib" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 1:39:48 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop assembly?
I had mine shipped assembled from the factory. I do not remember the amount
, but I know it was less than having it shipped to the nearest dealer, asse
mbled, recrated, and then shipped to me. However, I lived in a city (Minnea
polis) that had a major airport and customs office, so it could be shipped
directly to me. I bought mine through Jim Ayers at LessDragProducts.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 13, 2009, at 12:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
I can't remember the conversation I had a few months ago with the person I
am having assemble the prop, and I don't have the paper i wrote the info on
, but what have others paid for on the assembly of the MT prop? I seem to r
emember it being less significant of a price than what i am hearing now, bu
t I could be wrong. Non of what I am hearing has anything to do with cratin
g, or licensing or import fees or any of that, just assembly.
=C2-
Thanks,
=C2-
John G
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronic
s.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop assembly? |
Thanks guys. The price is as described=2C I=2Cm okay...My brain is just wor
ling from the cash outflow and lackof inflow in the last few months.
From: dmaib(at)mac.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop assembly?Date: Tue=2C 13
bled from the factory. I do not remember the amount=2C but I know it was le
ss than having it shipped to the nearest dealer=2C assembled=2C recrated=2C
and then shipped to me. However=2C I lived in a city (Minneapolis) that ha
d a major airport and customs office=2C so it could be shipped directly to
me. I bought mine through Jim Ayers at LessDragProducts.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 13=2C 2009=2C at 12:12 PM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:I can't remember th
e conversation I had a few months ago with the person I am having assemble
the prop=2C and I don't have the paper i wrote the info on=2C but what have
others paid for on the assembly of the MT prop? I seem to remember it bein
g less significant of a price than what i am hearing now=2C but I could be
wrong. Non of what I am hearing has anything to do with crating=2C or licen
sing or import fees or any of that=2C just assembly. Thanks=2C John Ghttp:/
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop assembly? |
Yeah, I had to hire a customs broker as well. Same deal, Customs
agent just happened to have the name and number of the nearest broker
handy.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 13, 2009, at 4:51 PM, Rick Sked wrote:
Me too...from Jim Ayers. AND I had to hire a stinkin customs broker
for $150 to get it out of customs.For that fee I signed a limited
power of attorney, she made a phone call and I drove back and picked
it up. Our wonderful public servants would not deal with me direct.
Odd how the customs agent had a card, (read stack of them) for a
broker 2 miles away in his pocket. And you think only the crooked
ones are in Illinois.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Maib" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 1:39:48 PM (GMT-0800) America/
Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop assembly?
I had mine shipped assembled from the factory. I do not remember the
amount, but I know it was less than having it shipped to the nearest
dealer, assembled, recrated, and then shipped to me. However, I lived
in a city (Minneapolis) that had a major airport and customs office,
so it could be shipped directly to me. I bought mine through Jim
Ayers at LessDragProducts.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 13, 2009, at 12:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
I can't remember the conversation I had a few months ago with the
person I am having assemble the prop, and I don't have the paper i
wrote the info on, but what have others paid for on the assembly of
the MT prop? I seem to remember it being less significant of a price
than what i am hearing now, but I could be wrong. Non of what I am
hearing has anything to do with crating, or licensing or import fees
or any of that, just assembly.
Thanks,
John G
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Neat to have but.. |
You ought to go, Rick. And take that airport manager along...
Neal
Heh, heh, you one smart cookie Rick! :) We're going Saturday night,
wanna go?
I'll give you three guesses who at BPA wrote this and I'll bet it's not
the good looking one or the distinguished gentleman who founded the
company!!
Coon huntin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lower Cowling attachment |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Another builder and myself are approaching the point of installing the engine.
We want to install the cowl flanges and hinges first. We are aware of the issue
with the eyelets on the hinges breaking on the bottom of the cowl, so we have
both decided to use a flange/screw and nut-plate arrangement.
The question is this.... In a recent post someone mentioned that they used .063
aluminum plate to support the bottom of the cowling. That is awfully heavy metal,
but maybe that is what is called for in this location.
I also see that Deems has used some kind of aluminum flange with 3 nut-plates on
each side. I also think that Tim Olsen did not use the hinge on the bottom of
the cowl. But I cannot see the pic on his site.
If anyone (or hopefully several) of you can give some insight here it would be
graciously appreciated
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224639#224639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowling attachment |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
The original hinge material was 0.063". Using a flange of the same thickness makes
it easier to maintain cowl to fuselage alignment.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224645#224645
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Cowling attachment |
Mike,
I replaced my broken hinges with .063 sheet of the same dimensions as the
two hinge halves pinned together, about 2" x 6". The sheet is riveted to
the horizontal return at the bottom of the firewall, exactly like the hinge
was. I have three nutplates in the sheet to support the aft end of the
cowl. The hinge half on the cowl was removed, and now the cowl screws
directly to the sheet.
The hinges cracked out at about 50 hours. We've got 306 hours as of today
and the new attach is working fine.
Soon after the hinges went away, the vertical center support also cracked.
That got duplicated in .063 (I think it was originally .032). So far so
good with that one too.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower Cowling attachment
Another builder and myself are approaching the point of installing the
engine. We want to install the cowl flanges and hinges first. We are aware
of the issue with the eyelets on the hinges breaking on the bottom of the
cowl, so we have both decided to use a flange/screw and nut-plate
arrangement.
The question is this.... In a recent post someone mentioned that they used
.063 aluminum plate to support the bottom of the cowling. That is awfully
heavy metal, but maybe that is what is called for in this location.
I also see that Deems has used some kind of aluminum flange with 3
nut-plates on each side. I also think that Tim Olsen did not use the hinge
on the bottom of the cowl. But I cannot see the pic on his site.
If anyone (or hopefully several) of you can give some insight here it would
be graciously appreciated
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224639#224639
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Cowling attachment |
Hi Mike=2C
I did the same as been echoed by others. There are some pictures and info a
t the bottom of my blog: http://www.aviationstop.com/
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
> Subject: RV10-List: Lower Cowling attachment
> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net
> Date: Tue=2C 13 Jan 2009 18:08:46 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Another builder and myself are approaching the point of installing the en
gine. We want to install the cowl flanges and hinges first. We are aware of
the issue with the eyelets on the hinges breaking on the bottom of the cow
l=2C so we have both decided to use a flange/screw and nut-plate arrangemen
t.
>
> The question is this.... In a recent post someone mentioned that they us
ed .063 aluminum plate to support the bottom of the cowling. That is awfull
y heavy metal=2C but maybe that is what is called for in this location.
>
> I also see that Deems has used some kind of aluminum flange with 3 nut-pl
ates on each side. I also think that Tim Olsen did not use the hinge on the
bottom of the cowl. But I cannot see the pic on his site.
>
> If anyone (or hopefully several) of you can give some insight here it wou
ld be graciously appreciated
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "=3B09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224639#224639
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_0
12009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowling attachment |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Thank you so much Tim, Dave and Jim. I cannot tell you how grateful I am that you
and other builders are out there to help us newbies through the building process.
From your efforts and others on this site we will have better built and
safer airplanes.
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
:)
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224669#224669
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lynell added you as a friend on Reunion.com! |
| From: | Lynell Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi,
I looked for you on Reunion.com, but you weren't there. Please connect
with me so we can keep in touch.
-Lynell
Do You Know Lynell?
YES - Connect with Lynell, and see who's searching for you
http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=click&mailingid=68800&
messageid=6100&databaseid=1229335862&serial=1228209693&emailid=rv10-l
ist@matronics.com&userid=221001&extra=&&&2002&&&http://www.reunion.com/sh
owInviteRegistration.do?uid=318979543&invitee=rv10-list(at)matronics.com
NO - I don't know Lynell http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=
click&mailingid=68800&messageid=6100&databaseid=1229335862&serial=122
8209693&emailid=rv10-list(at)matronics.com&userid=221001&extra=&&&2000&&&h
ttp://www.reunion.com/showInviteRegistration.do?unsub=true&invitee=rv10-l
ist(at)matronics.com&uid=318979543
----------------------------
Reunion.com - Find Everyone from Your Past.
You have received this e-mail because a Reunion.com Member sent an invi
tation to
this e-mail address. For assistance, please refer to our FAQ or Contact
Us. http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=click&mailingid=68800&m
essageid=6100&databaseid=1229335862&serial=1228209693&emailid=rv10-li
st@matronics.com&userid=221001&extra=&&&2001&&&http://help.reunion.com/se
lfhelp?lid=2
Our Address: 2118 Wilshire Blvd., Box 1008, Santa Monica, CA 90403-5784
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Neat to have but.. |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Randy gets to wield the stick...
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of BPA
Don't feel too bad for them John. Those coons can get pretty mean when
they get surrounded by a couple of blue ticks. I've seen more than one
good coon dog get more than it bargained for. I could go off sounding
like Jerry Clower with some stories but I'll save those for SNF or OSH
:-)
Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Matt,
I pretty much stole Bill's setup (previous note) but used a ground bus instead
for the ground connection. These are available from B&C and it has enough room
for 2 large (5/16 I think) bolted connections plus about a dozen or so soldered
fast-on tabs. This gives you the option of grounding some components in the
aft end of the aircraft without grounding them locally on the fuselage or having
to run ground wires forward.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224733#224733
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Matt,
I pretty much stole Bill's setup (previous note) but used a ground bus instead
for the ground connection. These are available from B&C and it has enough room
for 2 large (5/16 I think) bolted connections plus about a dozen or so soldered
fast-on tabs. This gives you the option of grounding some components in the
aft end of the aircraft without grounding them locally on the fuselage or having
to run ground wires forward.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224734#224734
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I just ordered mine from MATCO (sorry Dave). Must be popular because they are
already backordered about 2 weeks. They are still offering the sale price. I
bought the balance weights too and will balance the mains as well as the nose
wheel. My thanks to y'all that have paved the way for the rest of us.
On some aircraft it is a good idea to balance the wheel pants too in order to reduce
shimmy. Does anyone think this is necessary?
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224739#224739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
I have a 2 week back order as well.
I'll balance all the heels, statically as I have found that has worked fine
with my bike tires, I know Scott mentioned that Dynamically they were out of
balance even after doing his statically so I may pursue it a little further.
I wont deal with the pants since I can't image they would cause a problem
unless they are way off aerodynamically
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
>
> I just ordered mine from MATCO (sorry Dave). Must be popular because they
> are already backordered about 2 weeks. They are still offering the sale
> price. I bought the balance weights too and will balance the mains as
> well as the nose wheel. My thanks to y'all that have paved the way for
> the rest of us.
>
> On some aircraft it is a good idea to balance the wheel pants too in order
> to reduce shimmy. Does anyone think this is necessary?
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224739#224739
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
I have a feeling they hadn't had a full production run yet as I ordered mine
right after reading Scott's post and I was also backordered.
As to the wheel pants, I've read in the past where people have balanced their
pants fore and aft and saw a large reduction in shaking of the mains on other
aircraft. It's fairly straightforward and doesn't add much weight so I'll probably
be doing it.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
I have a 2 week back order as well.
I'll balance all the heels, statically as I have found that has worked fine
with my bike tires, I know Scott mentioned that Dynamically they were out of
balance even after doing his statically so I may pursue it a little further.
I wont deal with the pants since I can't image they would cause a problem
unless they are way off aerodynamically
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
For those who asked: Yes, the more recent RV-10 kits do come with the upgraded
nut for the trim cable. Basically, a larger welded area between the nut and the
stainless plate. I thought Van's even issued a SB on this?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224771#224771
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
I have the same balancer as you and Tim but, rather surprisingly, I could
n't find really any point of imbalance on my nose wheel but I still have to
mount the mains. I like the buffer trick and will spin mine up and see if
I get a resonance out of it.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
I believe my issue with the static balance on the mains was that I put all
the weight on once side of the wheel.
You can imagine that weight wanting to be thrown off as an imbalance or vib
ration starts.
I also used the balancer that Tim shows in his write-up. http://www.myrv10.
com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
At first they were very out of balance statically and took close to 2.5 - 3
.0 oz to bet them balance statically.
Now when I spun them up I could not believe how bad they were. Part of my
problem I feel are my Goodyear Flight Custom III tires.
They seem to be heavier and have more tread and the place where you put the
weights on these wheels are very close to the center (low moment).
To answer how I balance them. I know where I had the weights before and ju
st started taking weights off as I spun them up.
My buffer was running at 3000 RPM (6" disc), so I had my wheels roughly at
54 mph. It was really cool that I could still pick up the harmonic I get a
round 30 mph.
Through trial and error I got them very close. I need to revisit this agai
n and I will take some video to show you what mine do.
By statically balancing my front wheel and placing weights on each side it
worked out perfect. I feel I just need to go back and statically balance m
y mains by evenly distributing the weight.
I may pull the brake off and put the weight on the inside to get it even cl
oser.
I am going to see how my vibration is before balancing the wheel pants.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
They did. You're supposed to inspect and replace the part at your cost.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-9-20.pdf
All SB's can be found here:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts
For those who asked: Yes, the more recent RV-10 kits do come with the
upgraded nut for the trim cable. Basically, a larger welded area between the
nut and the stainless plate. I thought Van's even issued a SB on this?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224771#224771
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3766 (20090114) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3766 (20090114) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
All you folks enjoying your nice, fancy, modern slick RV-10s.. Some of you
may have forgotten what it's like for the rest of us.
Brenda Specketer was recently reminded what it's like among the commoners,
the sub-100-kt peasants. .forced to suffer a trip around the patch in the
CherokeeJet.
Neal E. George
Navarre, FL 32566
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Project for Sale |
Hey everyone,
I wanted to let all of you know I've arrived at a very difficult decision t
o sell=C2-my RV-10 Project.=C2- I sure don't want to do this, but feel
it's the best decision for me at this time.=C2-=C2-
All is not in vain though.=C2- I've met some great people, made new frien
ds, became a pilot, lost a little weight, and learned a few things.=C2-
=C2-I hope to=C2-do it again someday.
Anyway....thanks for everything to this point.=C2- I could use some help
spreading the word about the sale of the project.=C2-=C2-A flyer is att
ached=C2-and I have a fairly detailed spreadsheet itemizing the contents
so far.=C2- Please.....only serious inquiries.
I'll keep in touch.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Colorado Springs, CO
719-660-9943
http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Project for Sale |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Man that's heart breaking, Sean.
Good luck with selling the project. I hope you can start another one at
some point in the future.
Phil
________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net [mailto:dogsbark(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 12:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Project for Sale
Hey everyone,
I wanted to let all of you know I've arrived at a very difficult
decision to sell my RV-10 Project. I sure don't want to do this, but
feel it's the best decision for me at this time.
All is not in vain though. I've met some great people, made new
friends, became a pilot, lost a little weight, and learned a few things.
I hope to do it again someday.
Anyway....thanks for everything to this point. I could use some help
spreading the word about the sale of the project. A flyer is attached
and I have a fairly detailed spreadsheet itemizing the contents so far.
Please.....only serious inquiries.
I'll keep in touch.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Colorado Springs, CO
719-660-9943
http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Is this corrosion?? |
Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on some
of the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I need to
worry about it and replace the parts or clean and prime them somehow???
I'll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
Thanks,
bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans Manifold pressure fitting replacement |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
FYI.
McMaster carr part number 5058K243 ALUMINUM SINGLE-BARBED TUBE FITTINGS, ADAPTER
FOR 1/4" TUBE ID X 10-32 UNF MALE, BLUE
This will replace the nylon fitting sent with vans FWF kit for connection to a
AFS or other system.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225053#225053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this corrosion?? |
Bill,
It looks like corrosion but not on a large scale, I suspect that there may
have been some corrosive chemial stored nearby in the garage/workshop? It w
ould take water quite awhile to develop the pitting I see. Pool chemicals,
fertilizer, pesticides etc in a oxygen/moisture enviromet will create an ac
idic atmoshphere that will accelerate the process. Just my $1.25 worth, her
es some info from the U.S.=C2-Army's corrosion identification and abateme
nt course. I did'nt include all the forms just the ones that would be appli
cable to bare metals. Filli form is another fun topic.
Rick Sked
40185
Uniform surface corrosion
Uniform surface corrosion results from a direct chemical attack on a metal
surface and involves only the metal surface. On a polished surface, this ty
pe of corrosion is first seen as a general dulling or etching of the surfac
e and if the attack is allowed to continue, the surface becomes rough and p
ossibly frosted in appearance. This type of corrosion appears uniform becau
se the anodes and cathodes are very small and constantly shift from one are
a of the surface to another. An example is the etching of metals by acids.
The discoloration or general dulling of metal created by exposure to elevat
ed temperatures is not considered to be uniform surface corrosion.
Pitting
The most common corrosion of aluminum and magnesium alloys is pitting. It i
s first noticeable as a white or gray powdery deposit, similar to dust, whi
ch blotches the surface. When the deposit is cleaned away, tiny pits or hol
es can be seen in the surface. Pitting corrosion may also occur in other me
tal types or alloys. The combination of small active anodes to large passiv
e cathodes causes severe pitting.
Galvanic Galvanic corrosion occurs when different metals are in contact wit
h each other and an electrolyte, such as salt water, is present. It is usua
lly recognizable by the presence of a buildup of corrosion at the joint bet
ween the metals. Two dissimilar metals joined together form a galvanic coup
le if moisture and contamination are present
Light corrosion
Where the condition of the metal is characterized by discoloration and pitt
ing to a depth of 0.001 INCH (1 mil). This type of damage can normally be r
emoved by light hand sanding. Where the condition of the metal is character
ized by discoloration and pitting to a depth of 0.001 INCH (1 mil). This ty
pe of damage can normally be removed by light hand sanding. mil). This type
of damage can normally be removed by light hand sanding. =C2-=C2-
Moderate corrosion
Where the condition of the metal is characterized by blisters, evidence of
scaling, of the coating or paint system, intergranular corrosion, and pitti
ng to a depth of 0.001 INCH (1 mil) to 0.010 INCH (10 mils). This type of d
amage shall be removed by extensive hand sanding, light mechanical sanding,
or by deoxidizing with a corrosion removing compound. system, intergranula
r corrosion, and pitting to a depth of 0.001 INCH (1 mil) to 0.010 INCH (10
mils). This type of damage shall be removed by extensive hand sanding, lig
ht mechanical sanding, or by deoxidizing with a corrosion removing compound
. type of damage shall be removed by extensive hand sanding, light mechanic
al sanding, or by deoxidizing with a corrosion removing compound. with a co
rrosion removing compound.
Severe corrosion
Where the condition of the metal is characterized by blistering, evidence o
f scaling, flaking of the coating or paint system, intergranular corrosion,
and pitting to a depth greater than 0.010 INCH (10 mills). This type of da
mage shall be removed by extensive mechanical sanding, grinding, or by deox
idizing with a corrosion removing compound or paint system, intergranular c
orrosion, and pitting to a depth greater than 0.010 INCH (10 mills). This t
ype of damage shall be removed by extensive mechanical sanding, grinding, o
r by deoxidizing with a corrosion removing compound of damage shall be remo
ved by extensive mechanical sanding, grinding, or by deoxidizing with a cor
rosion removing compound removing compound
Enviromental factors
Moisture
Moisture is present in the air and often contains contaminants such as chlo
rides, sulfates, and nitrates. Condensed moisture after it evaporates, will
leave its contaminants on surfaces of the aircraft. Accumulations of moist
ure may result from cycles of warming and cooling, and drawn along poor bon
d lines by capillary action. moisture after it evaporates, will leave its c
ontaminants on surfaces of the aircraft. Accumulations of moisture may resu
lt from cycles of warming and cooling, and drawn along poor bond lines by c
apillary action. result from cycles of warming and cooling, and drawn along
poor bond lines by capillary action.
Temperature/Climate
Generally, corrosion will increase as temperatures rise, but a moderate inc
rease may reduce corrosion by prevent- ing condensation. Temperatures above
104 =C2=B0 F (40 =C2=B0 C) will inhibit mold and bacteria growth. Temperat
ures held at the lower end of the range will generally reduce the rate of c
orrosion. Warm, moist air, normally found in tropical climates tends to acc
elerate corrosion while cold, dry air normally found in artic climates tend
s to reduce corrosion rates. Corrosion =C2-does =C2-not =C2-occur =C2
-in =C2-very =C2-dry =C2-conditions. =C2-Certain =C2-areas =C2
-within =C2-an =C2-aircraft, =C2-such =C2-as =C2-the =C2-cock
pit =C2-and =C2-air conditioned equipment bays, may be subjected to cli
matic dry air that has been cooled by air conditioners. This reduces its ab
ility to hold moisture, and when ducted into interior area of the aircraft,
can release sufficient moisture to accelerate corrosion. ing condensation.
Temperatures above 104 =C2=B0 F (40 =C2=B0 C) will inhibit mold and bacter
ia growth. Temperatures held at the lower end of the range will generally r
educe the rate of corrosion. Warm, moist air, normally found in tropical cl
imates tends to accelerate corrosion while cold, dry air normally found in
artic climates tends to reduce corrosion rates. Corrosion =C2-does =C2-
not =C2-occur =C2-in =C2-very =C2-dry =C2-conditions. =C2-Certa
in =C2-areas =C2-within =C2-an =C2-aircraft, =C2-such =C2-as
=C2-the =C2-cockpit =C2-and =C2-air conditioned equipment bays, may
be subjected to climatic dry air that has been cooled by air conditioners.
This reduces its ability to hold moisture, and when ducted into interior a
rea of the aircraft, can release sufficient moisture to accelerate corrosio
n. lower end of the range will generally reduce the rate of corrosion. Warm
, moist air, normally found in tropical climates tends to accelerate corros
ion while cold, dry air normally found in artic climates tends to reduce co
rrosion rates. Corrosion =C2-does =C2-not =C2-occur =C2-in =C2-ve
ry =C2-dry =C2-conditions. =C2-Certain =C2-areas =C2-within =C2
-an =C2-aircraft, =C2-such =C2-as =C2-the =C2-cockpit =C2-and
=C2-air conditioned equipment bays, may be subjected to climatic dry air
that has been cooled by air conditioners. This reduces its ability to hold
moisture, and when ducted into interior area of the aircraft, can release
sufficient moisture to accelerate corrosion. tends to accelerate corrosion
while cold, dry air normally found in artic climates tends to reduce corros
ion rates. Corrosion =C2-does =C2-not =C2-occur =C2-in =C2-very
=C2-dry =C2-conditions. =C2-Certain =C2-areas =C2-within =C2-an
=C2-aircraft, =C2-such =C2-as =C2-the =C2-cockpit =C2-and =C2
-air conditioned equipment bays, may be subjected to climatic dry air tha
t has been cooled by air conditioners. This reduces its ability to hold moi
sture, and when ducted into interior area of the aircraft, can release suff
icient moisture to accelerate corrosion. Corrosion =C2-does =C2-not =C2
-occur =C2-in =C2-very =C2-dry =C2-conditions. =C2-Certain =C2
-areas =C2-within =C2-an =C2-aircraft, =C2-such =C2-as =C2-th
e =C2-cockpit =C2-and =C2-air conditioned equipment bays, may be subj
ected to climatic dry air that has been cooled by air conditioners. This re
duces its ability to hold moisture, and when ducted into interior area of t
he aircraft, can release sufficient moisture to accelerate corrosion. condi
tioned equipment bays, may be subjected to climatic dry air that has been c
ooled by air conditioners. This reduces its ability to hold moisture, and w
hen ducted into interior area of the aircraft, can release sufficient moist
ure to accelerate corrosion. reduces its ability to hold moisture, and when
ducted into interior area of the aircraft, can release sufficient moisture
to accelerate corrosion. to accelerate corrosion.
Salt Salt
Salt dissolved in water forms a strong electrolyte. Normal winds carry 10 t
o 100 pounds of sea salt per cubic mile of air. Since dissolved salts are s
trong electrolytes, salt water environments are highly corrosive to aircraf
t. d.=C2-=C2-=C2- Ozone Ozone is an active form or oxygen which is fo
rmed naturally during thunderstorms, by arcing in electrical devices, and b
y photochemical reactions in smog. When ozone is absorbed by electrolyte so
lutions in contact with metals, it increases the rate of corrosion. air. Si
nce dissolved salts are strong electrolytes, salt water environments are hi
ghly corrosive to aircraft. d.=C2-=C2-=C2- Ozone Ozone is an active f
orm or oxygen which is formed naturally during thunderstorms, by arcing in
electrical devices, and by photochemical reactions in smog. When ozone is a
bsorbed by electrolyte solutions in contact with metals, it increases the r
ate of corrosion. d.=C2-=C2-=C2- Ozone Ozone is an active form or oxy
gen which is formed naturally during thunderstorms, by arcing in electrical
devices, and by photochemical reactions in smog. When ozone is absorbed by
electrolyte solutions in contact with metals, it increases the rate of cor
rosion. Ozone is an active form or oxygen which is formed naturally during
thunderstorms, by arcing in electrical devices, and by photochemical reacti
ons in smog. When ozone is absorbed by electrolyte solutions in contact wit
h metals, it increases the rate of corrosion. and by photochemical reaction
s in smog. When ozone is absorbed by electrolyte solutions in contact with
metals, it increases the rate of corrosion. increases the rate of corrosion
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 8:57:04 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on some of
the W-1025A flap hinge brackets.=C2- If it's corrosion do I need to worry
about it and replace the parts or clean and prime them somehow???=C2- I'
ll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
Thanks,
bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this corrosion?? |
Bill,
My suggestion is to take a scotchbrite pad to it until whatever that
is is gone and the surface is smooth. Clean it up with some coleman
fuel or acetone and shoot it with a bit of primer. Unless that runs
deep in to the part, I don't think you've got a problem.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
(spending a lot of time on the phone with Stein these days...
structure is almost done, control systems are in... but big money
between me and the finish line)
On Jan 15, 2009, at 8:57 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on
> some of the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I
> need to worry about it and replace the parts or clean and prime
> them somehow??? I'll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
>
> Thanks,
> bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
Page 28-14 step 3. Rivet callouts are on page 28-12
Riveting the bottom flange of the Fwd Center Section Bulkhead to the
F-1076 Center bottom skin and the F-1072. The outboard 7 rivets are to
be double flush on my plans. How does one go about that. Do you
counter sink the Bulkhead holes.
I noticed that the older plans don't call for the double flush rivets.
My plans don't call for any prep of the holes for double flush rivets.
Just trying to prevent another screw up.
Thanks in advance,
Rob Hunter
40432
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this corrosion?? |
Thanks guys. Ken from Vans says to clean it up and prime it. It was
mentioned that I must store chemicals in the garage to create a somewhat
"acidic"environment but in reality I don't store any chemicals in there.
The blue "wrap" from vans was peeled off where the "corrosion" took
place.
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
Bill,
My suggestion is to take a scotchbrite pad to it until whatever that
is is gone and the surface is smooth. Clean it up with some coleman
fuel or acetone and shoot it with a bit of primer. Unless that runs
deep in to the part, I don't think you've got a problem.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
(spending a lot of time on the phone with Stein these days...
structure is almost done, control systems are in... but big money
between me and the finish line)
On Jan 15, 2009, at 8:57 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on
some of the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I need to
worry about it and replace the parts or clean and prime them somehow???
I'll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
Thanks,
bill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
1/16/2009 6:52 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
Rob,
Yes, you machine countersink to do this.=C2- If I remember correctly, the
landing gear bracket has a flange that resides in that area.=C2- It will
need to sit flush and the shop heads will interfere.
Sean Blair
#40225
For Sale
=C2-=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 10:03:14 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting
Page 28-14 step 3.=C2- Rivet callouts are on page 28-12
Riveting the bottom flange of the Fwd Center Section Bulkhead to the F-1076
Center bottom skin and the F-1072.=C2- The outboard 7 rivets are to be d
ouble flush on my plans.=C2- How does one go about that.=C2- Do you cou
nter sink the Bulkhead holes.
I noticed that the older plans don't=C2-call for the double flush rivets.
=C2- My plans don't call for any prep of the holes for double flush rivet
s.
Just trying to prevent another screw up.
Thanks in advance,
Rob Hunter
40432
=============
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
YUP!!! Sean has it right...I missed it at first, seems the misses are easy
to remember.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 9:19:16 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting
Rob,
Yes, you machine countersink to do this.=C2- If I remember correctly, the
landing gear bracket has a flange that resides in that area.=C2- It will
need to sit flush and the shop heads will interfere.
Sean Blair
#40225
For Sale
=C2-=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 10:03:14 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting
Page 28-14 step 3.=C2- Rivet callouts are on page 28-12
Riveting the bottom flange of the Fwd Center Section Bulkhead to the F-1076
Center bottom skin and the F-1072.=C2- The outboard 7 rivets are to be d
ouble flush on my plans.=C2- How does one go about that.=C2- Do you cou
nter sink the Bulkhead holes.
I noticed that the older plans don't=C2-call for the double flush rivets.
=C2- My plans don't call for any prep of the holes for double flush rivet
s.
Just trying to prevent another screw up.
Thanks in advance,
Rob Hunter
40432
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Is this corrosion?? |
Bill=2C
If you have Alumiprep and alodine these are good to use. The etching and co
nversion coat process will stop any corrosion that may be missed by the Sco
tchbrite.
Vern Smith (finishing #324)
From: william(at)gbta.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: Is
this corrosion??Date: Fri=2C 16 Jan 2009 11:04:39 -0600
Thanks guys. Ken from Vans says to clean it up and prime it. It was menti
oned that I must store chemicals in the garage to create a somewhat "acidic
"environment but in reality I don't store any chemicals in there. The blue
"wrap" from vans was peeled off where the "corrosion" took place.
Thanks=2C
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday=2C January 16=2C 2009 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
Bill=2C
My suggestion is to take a scotchbrite pad to it until whatever that is is
gone and the surface is smooth. Clean it up with some coleman fuel or acet
one and shoot it with a bit of primer. Unless that runs deep in to the par
t=2C I don't think you've got a problem.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
(spending a lot of time on the phone with Stein these days... structure is
almost done=2C control systems are in... but big money between me and the f
inish line)
On Jan 15=2C 2009=2C at 8:57 PM=2C Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on some of
the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I need to worry abou
t it and replace the parts or clean and prime them somehow??? I'll send pi
cs to Vans also to see what they say.
Thanks=2C
bill
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
- 270.10.8/1897 - Release Date: 1/16/2009 6:52 AM
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_hm_justgotbetter_expl
ore_012009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
Be glad the plans show it now. My plans did not and I had to redo the rivets when
fitting the landing gear brackets.
Make sure the rivet is flush with the bulkhead, otherwise the bracket will not
fit right.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225127#225127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
Thanks Guys!
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 12:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Riveting
-->
Be glad the plans show it now. My plans did not and I had to redo the
rivets when fitting the landing gear brackets.
Make sure the rivet is flush with the bulkhead, otherwise the bracket
will not fit right.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225127#225127
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jacksonville, FL? |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Linn,
My screener deleted your response before it went to my email, but I got a glimpse,
and I'll respond here because of that. Otherwise I'll keep the cancer stuff
off the forum. lewgall(at)charter.net
This treatment is proton beam therapy. Unlike traditional radiation which uses
photons that does damage on the way in and on the way out; they strip the electrons
off the hydrogen atom, then focus the remaining protons at the prostate.
Protons have a low energy entrance, peaks energy release at a very specific
distance, then dissipates - no exit damage. Unlike any other procedure (including
the ultrasound or microwave experiments), they have achieved accuracy at
0.1 mm. !!! Way cool. No collateral damage, no side effects, painless, non-invasive
- as good or better results cancer wise as every other procedure.
I'm off on weekends and I had thought of trying to catch a shuttle launch if there
is one during my time there.
Bill, you are absolutely right -- building is a wonderful reality check for me
in many ways. I tend to have a really vivid imagination that can lean toward
the worst case scenario if I let it -- one of the BIG reasons I'm not flying!
... yet! Other really neat uses of this proton therapy are for brain tumors
in children, optic nerve tumors, lung cancer, AND breast cancer.
Back to building -- let me know if there are any builds going on in Jacksonville
that could use some help.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225196#225196
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this corrosion?? |
Have you cleaned with acetone? Frequently the blue vinyl leaves adhesive
behind that looks like white residue. If not adhesive, probably fine
scotchbrite will clean it right up.
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Thanks guys. Ken from Vans says to clean it up and prime it. It was
> mentioned that I must store chemicals in the garage to create a somewhat
> "acidic"environment but in reality I don't store any chemicals in
> there. The blue "wrap" from vans was peeled off where the "corrosion"
> took place.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Jeff Carpenter
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, January 16, 2009 10:47 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
>
> Bill,
>
> My suggestion is to take a scotchbrite pad to it until whatever that
> is is gone and the surface is smooth. Clean it up with some coleman
> fuel or acetone and shoot it with a bit of primer. Unless that runs
> deep in to the part, I don't think you've got a problem.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> (spending a lot of time on the phone with Stein these days...
> structure is almost done, control systems are in... but big money
> between me and the finish line)
>
>
> On Jan 15, 2009, at 8:57 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
>> Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on
>> some of the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I
>> need to worry about it and replace the parts or clean and prime
>> them somehow??? I'll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> bill
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> - 270.10.8/1897 - Release Date: 1/16/2009 6:52 AM
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is this corrosion?? |
Haven't tried anything yet but will in the next day or two. Too busy
working on spars and ribs!!!
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
>
> Have you cleaned with acetone? Frequently the blue vinyl leaves adhesive
> behind that looks like white residue. If not adhesive, probably fine
> scotchbrite will clean it right up.
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>> Thanks guys. Ken from Vans says to clean it up and prime it. It was
>> mentioned that I must store chemicals in the garage to create a somewhat
>> "acidic"environment but in reality I don't store any chemicals in
>> there. The blue "wrap" from vans was peeled off where the "corrosion"
>> took place.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Jeff Carpenter
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 16, 2009 10:47 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Is this corrosion??
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> My suggestion is to take a scotchbrite pad to it until whatever that
>> is is gone and the surface is smooth. Clean it up with some coleman
>> fuel or acetone and shoot it with a bit of primer. Unless that runs
>> deep in to the part, I don't think you've got a problem.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> (spending a lot of time on the phone with Stein these days...
>> structure is almost done, control systems are in... but big money
>> between me and the finish line)
>>
>>
>> On Jan 15, 2009, at 8:57 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>
>>> Finally got around to wings and found what looks like corrosion on
>>> some of the W-1025A flap hinge brackets. If it's corrosion do I
>>> need to worry about it and replace the parts or clean and prime
>>> them somehow??? I'll send pics to Vans also to see what they say.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> bill
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> - 270.10.8/1897 - Release Date: 1/16/2009 6:52 AM
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
6:52 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I have a feeling that this may have been covered before - forgive me if I a
m going over old ground.
I spent today doing the final rigging of the ailerons pending first flight.
With the elevators in the neutral position, I managed to achieve a near p
erfect alignment of flaps, ailerons and wingtip on both sides, with the sti
cks both centered and bolt upright. I felt good.
With the wing trailing edges in alignment, I moved the elevator up and down
and found that both ailerons would move up more than 1/4" when the elevato
r TE was dropped. Not much (if any) movement of the ailerons from neutral
when the elevator TE is raised.
I don't think I have a problem, the ailerons move up only with full forward
stick (not a condition I expect much) and both are deflected the same amou
nt. Is it possible to achieve flap, aileron, tip alignment through all elev
ator positions?
cheers,
Ron
-187
gettin' nervous!
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I've seen mention of rudder trim made from hinge material. I'm going
that route and wonder how effective it is with just the hinge or if
extra area was needed.
So, for those that didn't cut the rudder and installed 'hinge trim', how
well does it work, how big (I saw 1') did you make yours, and did you
have to add a tab on the hinge.
TIA
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Rigging |
Just like Tim said. You want them even with the flaps when the
elevator is neutral. Because of the way the sticks are connected both
to the elevator and ailerons, the angle changes on the aileron
pushrods going from the sticks to the wingroot when the stick is moved
fore and aft, pulling the ailerons up when at either side of neutral
elevator. You did it just right.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 17, 2009, at 12:15 AM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> I have a feeling that this may have been covered before - forgive me
> if I am going over old ground.
>
> I spent today doing the final rigging of the ailerons pending first
> flight. With the elevators in the neutral position, I managed to
> achieve a near perfect alignment of flaps, ailerons and wingtip on
> both sides, with the sticks both centered and bolt upright. I felt
> good.
>
> With the wing trailing edges in alignment, I moved the elevator up
> and down and found that both ailerons would move up more than 1/4"
> when the elevator TE was dropped. Not much (if any) movement of the
> ailerons from neutral when the elevator TE is raised.
>
> I don't think I have a problem, the ailerons move up only with full
> forward stick (not a condition I expect much) and both are deflected
> the same amount. Is it possible to achieve flap, aileron, tip
> alignment through all elevator positions?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> -187
> gettin' nervous!
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
The trims I've used are about 8 inches long by about 1.5 inches wide,
from my memory. This is the aerotrim servo and tab (which is now in
limbo because Norm passed away). This may allow more trim then I
expect to use, but with a narrower tab you would have to turn it
further to trim the plane. I don't know if that would create more
drag or not.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 17, 2009, at 1:21 AM, linn Walters wrote:
> >
>
> I've seen mention of rudder trim made from hinge material. I'm
> going that route and wonder how effective it is with just the hinge
> or if extra area was needed.
>
> So, for those that didn't cut the rudder and installed 'hinge trim',
> how well does it work, how big (I saw 1') did you make yours, and
> did you have to add a tab on the hinge.
> TIA
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacksonville, FL? |
>From someone who has been through prostate cancer and out the other side
with a valid 3rd class physical, know that you will get through this and can
get your medical back. Find yourself a great flight surgeon and let him
help you.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 7:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Jacksonville, FL?
Hey Linn,
My screener deleted your response before it went to my email, but I got a
glimpse, and I'll respond here because of that. Otherwise I'll keep the
cancer stuff off the forum. lewgall(at)charter.net
This treatment is proton beam therapy. Unlike traditional radiation which
uses photons that does damage on the way in and on the way out; they strip
the electrons off the hydrogen atom, then focus the remaining protons at the
prostate. Protons have a low energy entrance, peaks energy release at a
very specific distance, then dissipates - no exit damage. Unlike any other
procedure (including the ultrasound or microwave experiments), they have
achieved accuracy at 0.1 mm. !!! Way cool. No collateral damage, no side
effects, painless, non-invasive - as good or better results cancer wise as
every other procedure.
I'm off on weekends and I had thought of trying to catch a shuttle launch if
there is one during my time there.
Bill, you are absolutely right -- building is a wonderful reality check for
me in many ways. I tend to have a really vivid imagination that can lean
toward the worst case scenario if I let it -- one of the BIG reasons I'm not
flying! ... yet! Other really neat uses of this proton therapy are for
brain tumors in children, optic nerve tumors, lung cancer, AND breast
cancer.
Back to building -- let me know if there are any builds going on in
Jacksonville that could use some help.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225196#225196
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Tip Construction Stall Warning System Steps |
Hello everyone, I'm new to the email list, but was wondering if someone
might have some guidance. I'm working on the wingtips, and the directions
recommend doing the steps on 19-2 before continuing onward. It doesn't
state which steps to perform on 19-2, and as I look at chapter 19, it looks
as though there are steps on 19-3 that could be done also. Can anyone tell
me exactly which steps they performed in chapter 19 as part of the chapter
17 wingtip construction? Thanks.
Andy Johnson
Poquoson, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gommone7(at)bellsouth.net |
| Subject: | Re: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gommone7(at)bellsouth.net |
| Subject: | Re: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
On my RV9A used a piece of Balsa obtained from the local hobby store. Cut
and ripped it into the shape of a wedge. After several flights and
shortening the length (I started with a piece 1.5" wide, 5" long, 3/8"
thick on the fat edge) I ended up with a wedge that was 3" long and 1/4"
thick on both rudder and aileron. Then I rattle canned it, and Scotch
Double Sided taped it to the rudder and aileron. Light and effective, easy
to modify if needed and it never came off after 300 hours even in coastal
marine air and five hours flying in rain. Worked for me and will use Balsa
on the RV10 about two months from completion.
Chuck
----------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder trim
>
> The trims I've used are about 8 inches long by about 1.5 inches wide,
> from my memory. This is the aerotrim servo and tab (which is now in
> limbo because Norm passed away). This may allow more trim then I expect
> to use, but with a narrower tab you would have to turn it further to trim
> the plane. I don't know if that would create more drag or not.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jan 17, 2009, at 1:21 AM, linn Walters wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> I've seen mention of rudder trim made from hinge material. I'm going
>> that route and wonder how effective it is with just the hinge or if
>> extra area was needed.
>>
>> So, for those that didn't cut the rudder and installed 'hinge trim', how
>> well does it work, how big (I saw 1') did you make yours, and did you
>> have to add a tab on the hinge.
>> TIA
>> Linn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacksonville, FL? |
Hey Gary,
Thanks for the response and the support. I'm not a pilot -- not sure I ever
will be -- just love building. I've done a great deal of work on my
friend's -10 and I'm hooked!
So no issue of getting my medical back, or getting a flight surgeon. By the
way, there is not an MD in my area (and they pride themselves on being state
of the art!) who is familiar with proton beam therapy -- or else they are
protecting their area of expertise or income. I had to find this on my own
and aggressively pursue it. Altho it will be difficult to be away from home
for two months, and no income for two months, and no -10 building for two
months, the benefits of no side effects, no pain, no collateral damage, no
incisions -- make it a no-brainer for me!
Don, Thanks for the great attitude! The closest treatment center (and the
first one, since early 90's) to you is Loma Linda hospital in LA -- I almost
went there, may yet if I get great offers like yours!
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Jacksonville, FL?
>
>>From someone who has been through prostate cancer and out the other side
> with a valid 3rd class physical, know that you will get through this and
> can
> get your medical back. Find yourself a great flight surgeon and let him
> help you.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | jammed main gear leg |
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the attach bracket? We got
the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle jiggle twist and turn
effort, but now its wedged in tight. I think that some of the powder
coat material chipped off and got between the leg and the bracket. We
heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with a lot of
effort) the leg about 10 degrees while pulling down on it. We've
sprayed some silicone in the tube. This baby is really stuck. My next
tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy hammer to
drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares the
hell out of me. Any ideas??
Paul Hahn
#40203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just saw an illustration of why we are , as country, screwed, Flew the 10 to
KPRC (Prescott AZ) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant, we saw 6
TSA/law enforcement types standing around. I believe they have a couple of
commuter flights a day.You and I paid 6 government employees (probably
overtime/premium pay). This is the Bin Laden secret plan; kill us with
bureaucracy..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Width between the wheel pants |
Can anyone tell me what the distance is between the wheels while the plane'
s weight is on the gear. A rough measure of the width from outside each whe
el aswell as to the outside of the wheel pants would be helpful.Thank=2CJoh
n G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: jammed main gear leg |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
I don't know if its any help but those legs fit with
a pretty close tolerance. If just a little residual po
wder coat worked its way into the areas between the leg
and bracket it made it even closer a fit.
I don't think you would have any issues with the hammer
and punch. If the leg rotates. I would do it but t
hat's just me..I'm blessed with the midas touch!! A li
ght tap will tell you how bad its stuck, if it moves
down a little your probably OK...
Rick S.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 10:51:17
Subject: RV10-List: jammed main gear leg
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | jammed main gear leg |
Paul=2CDId you put any lubricant on the two parts before you slid it in. Va
soline would be a good idea. This issue is very important to me because I n
eed to get my grear legs off in order to get the plane out of the basement
=2C so I am very worried about putting them on in the first place. This is
my next step.You might need to try cold=2C nitrogen or dry ice=2C before ba
nging on it.JOhn G.From: eagerlee(at)comcast.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSub
ject: RV10-List: jammed main gear legDate: Sun=2C 18 Jan 2009 10:51:17 -070
0
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the
attach bracket? We got the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle
jiggle twist and turn effort=2C but now its wedged in tight. I think that
some of the powder coat material chipped off and got between the leg and
the bracket. We heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with a
lot of effort) the leg about 10 degrees while pulling down on
it. We've sprayed some silicone in the tube. This baby is really
stuck. My next tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy
hammer to drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares
the
hell out of me. Any ideas??
Paul Hahn
#40203
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Width between the wheel pants |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
John,
I just measured it at 8' 6" from the pant spacer to
pant spacer
Rick S.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 10:26:53
Subject: RV10-List: Width between the wheel pants
Can anyone tell me what the distance is between the whe
els while the plane's weight is on the gear. A rough
measure of the width from outside each wheel aswell as
to the outside of the wheel pants would be helpful.Thank,
John G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin GPSMAP 496 For Sale |
Hi All,
I've decided to upgrade to the 696 and so I'm putting my 496 up for sale.
If anyone is looking for one, I figured I'd check with the list before
putting it up on ebay.
Unit is in excellent condition with all original accessories and box plus
one extra battery. I'm located in SoCal and anyone local is welcome to come
take a look first.
If anyone is interested feel free to make me an offer off list:
poneill(at)irealms.com.
Patrick #40715
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Door ajar indictors |
I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the directions.W
hat am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing the 5
/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a point and then
tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the theads of these bolt
s=2C only to replace them with a one inch long rare earth magnet and five m
inute epoxy?????There seems to be two issue that are confusing me. 1) I mad
e sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4 past the alu
minum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long enough the it wa
s still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that was housed by the nylon
block which is screwed to the door. I didn't want the pin bending in the g
ap between the fuse jam and the nylon door block.Now=2C am I asked to disca
rd this bolt pin and replace it with a one inch long cylindrical magnet?? A
ren't we weakening the mechanism just for the safety of seeing a light go o
ut??2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets=2C fore and af
t when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the swit
ch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?I made the inner portio
n of my cabin top flange fit so well that a business card cannot fit betwee
n the door and itself=2C so if the foreward pin is closed the rear one is o
bviously closed by just looking at he inner door fit.So with the relay or c
ircuit that Stein has placed in my system=2C can I just place a simple swit
ch with is pushed closed by the pin or should I just not hook power to the
door system and since the light will always be out=2C assume it is fine to
fly?What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not=2C PISSED.Two steps forward
=2C 1 and 3/4 steps backJOhn G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion door latch and it's
resulting possible problems. The next time you get next to a Cirrus,
look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk latch from a small
car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I have a good friend
with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info. If anyone out there
can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be really grateful!!
Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
John Gonzalez wrote:
> I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
> directions.
>
> What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
> the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a
> point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the
> theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a one inch long rare
> earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
>
> There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
> past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long
> enough the it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that
> was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't
> want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon
> door block.
>
> Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one
> inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just
> for the safety of seeing a light go out??
>
> 2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
> when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the
> switch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
>
> I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
> business card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the
> foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously closed by just
> looking at he inner door fit.
>
> So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
> just place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should
> I just not hook power to the door system and since the light will
> always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
>
> What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
>
> Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
>
> JOhn G.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
David McNeill wrote:
> Just saw an illustration of why we are , as country, screwed, Flew the
> 10 to KPRC (Prescott AZ) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant, we
> saw 6 TSA/law enforcement types standing around.
Just remember, TSA stands for Totally Screwing Aviation. I suppose it
could be Totally Screwing Americans if they continue down the path they
are on.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
the aircraft.
Steve 50212
--- linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion
> door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get
> next to a Cirrus,
> look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk
> latch from a small
> car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I
> have a good friend
> with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info.
> If anyone out there
> can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be
> really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> > I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began
> reading the
> > directions.
> >
> > What am I missing in the understanding of this
> system? Are we removing
> > the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time
> shaping the ends to a
> > point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum
> rod to receive the
> > theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a
> one inch long rare
> > earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
> >
> > There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> >
> > 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made
> penetrated atleast 1/4
> > past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was
> closed and was also long
> > enough the it was still inside the portion of the
> aluminum pin that
> > was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to
> the door. I didn't
> > want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse
> jam and the nylon
> > door block.
> >
> > Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and
> replace it with a one
> > inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening
> the mechanism just
> > for the safety of seeing a light go out??
> >
> > 2) Why are we using this complicated method with
> magnets, fore and aft
> > when we one switch could be thrown by the pin
> physically pushing the
> > switch closed/open and thus turning the light out
> or on?
> >
> > I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange
> fit so well that a
> > business card cannot fit between the door and
> itself, so if the
> > foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously
> closed by just
> > looking at he inner door fit.
> >
> > So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed
> in my system, can I
> > just place a simple switch with is pushed closed
> by the pin or should
> > I just not hook power to the door system and since
> the light will
> > always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
> >
> > What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not,
> PISSED.
> >
> > Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
> >
> > JOhn G.
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
No surprise...the forward hinged door presents its own issues...I just finished
to final fit of my doors today and have total faith in the mechanism...I imagine
Deems does too, it's all in how well you make everything fit..but I will say
I have an easy 100+ hours in fitting and the. linkage/ locks
Rick Sked
40185
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 19:53:25
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
the aircraft.
Steve 50212
--- linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion
> door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get
> next to a Cirrus,
> look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk
> latch from a small
> car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I
> have a good friend
> with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info.
> If anyone out there
> can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be
> really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> > I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began
> reading the
> > directions.
> >
> > What am I missing in the understanding of this
> system? Are we removing
> > the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time
> shaping the ends to a
> > point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum
> rod to receive the
> > theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a
> one inch long rare
> > earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
> >
> > There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> >
> > 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made
> penetrated atleast 1/4
> > past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was
> closed and was also long
> > enough the it was still inside the portion of the
> aluminum pin that
> > was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to
> the door. I didn't
> > want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse
> jam and the nylon
> > door block.
> >
> > Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and
> replace it with a one
> > inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening
> the mechanism just
> > for the safety of seeing a light go out??
> >
> > 2) Why are we using this complicated method with
> magnets, fore and aft
> > when we one switch could be thrown by the pin
> physically pushing the
> > switch closed/open and thus turning the light out
> or on?
> >
> > I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange
> fit so well that a
> > business card cannot fit between the door and
> itself, so if the
> > foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously
> closed by just
> > looking at he inner door fit.
> >
> > So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed
> in my system, can I
> > just place a simple switch with is pushed closed
> by the pin or should
> > I just not hook power to the door system and since
> the light will
> > always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
> >
> > What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not,
> PISSED.
> >
> > Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
> >
> > JOhn G.
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Door ajar indictors |
I used the rivethead blocks and pins..but had built mine IAW the plans
first.
1. IAW the plans, the bolt/pin is used to mark the frame, but is then
discarded. The end result is the angled piece of rod that is used to
"pull"
the door closed as the pin goes through the frame.
2. The magnet is placed, along with the switch, in a position such that
when the pin goes through the frame the switch is activated, but when
the
pin goes on the outside of the airplane it is not activated. The
problem
they are trying to address is when the door is closed the front pin
engages
but the back pin would pass outside the aircraft skin. If not carefully
inspected the pilot would think the door is completely closed but upon
takeoff, the air loads will open the door...and off it goes.
3. Why so complicated......fail safe? If you want the red like to
always be on unless the door is open. There are other ways of wiring
the
switches. Some people are just using green lights showing the door is
closed....
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 7:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
directions.
What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
the
5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a point and
then
tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the theads of these
bolts,
only to replace them with a one inch long rare earth magnet and five
minute
epoxy?????
There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
past
the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long enough
the
it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that was housed by
the
nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't want the pin bending
in
the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon door block.
Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one inch
long
cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just for the
safety
of seeing a light go out??
2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
when
we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the switch
closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
business
card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the foreward pin is
closed the rear one is obviously closed by just looking at he inner door
fit.
So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
just
place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should I just
not
hook power to the door system and since the light will always be out,
assume
it is fine to fly?
What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
JOhn G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
For those who have installed an AFS AOA, where did you mount the CPU?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Darton Steve wrote:
>
> Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
> G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
> door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
> the aircraft.
>
> Steve 50212
Steve, would you elaborate? I had my first flight in my friends Cirrus
today ..... well, yesterday ;-) ..... and found it to be rather solid
... and this newbie didn't have any problem closing and latching it on
the first try. I did find it much easier to close the door and then
move the seat forward. The only downside I saw was that when you open
the door, you really had to push the button real hard.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
Hi Dave,
I built a shelf and mounted it up under and to the rear of the
instrument panel.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: AOA CPU
For those who have installed an AFS AOA, where did you mount the
CPU?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Subpanel, behind GRT displays..
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 10:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AOA CPU
For those who have installed an AFS AOA, where did you mount the CPU?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
I was in the Moab=2C UT airport last September and saw that they had at lea
st six (there may have been more I didn't see) TSA personnel wandering arou
nd. I can't see why there were ANY TSA there. The airport only gets about t
hree scheduled flights a day from Salt Lake City using Piper Navajos. The t
own of Moab is only about 7000. This is not much of an airport. Just a smal
l rural strip. Typical government reponse I guess. Dan Riggs > Date: Sun=2C
ill > > David McNeill wrote:> > Just saw an illustration of
why we are =2C as country=2C screwed=2C Flew the> > 10 to KPRC (Prescott AZ
) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant=2C we> > saw 6 TSA/law enforce
ment types standing around. > > Just remember=2C TSA stands for Totally Scr
ewing Aviation. I suppose it> could be Totally Screwing Americans if they c
ontinue down the path they> are on.> > -Dj> > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV> Spor
tsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ> http://deej.net/sportsm
an/ http://deej.net/kr-2/> > "Many things that are unexplainable happen dur
===========> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_hm_justgotbetter_expl
ore_012009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get next to a Cirrus,
> look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk latch from a small
> car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I have a good friend
> with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info. If anyone out there
> can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>> I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
>> directions.
>>
>> What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
>> the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a
>> point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the
>> theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a one inch long rare
>> earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
>>
>> There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>>
>> 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
>> past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long
>> enough the it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that
>> was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't
>> want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon
>> door block.
>>
>> Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one
>> inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just
>> for the safety of seeing a light go out??
>>
>> 2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
>> when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the
>> switch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
>>
>> I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
>> business card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the
>> foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously closed by just
>> looking at he inner door fit.
>>
>> So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
>> just place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should
>> I just not hook power to the door system and since the light will
>> always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
>>
>> What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
>>
>> Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
>>
>> JOhn G.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Linn,
I have an RV10 with over 200 hours on it with both the lights and an open
door warning on the Advanced 2500. The Advanced operates either normally
open or normally closed. I used a single pole double throw momentary push
button switch in the rear pin.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get next to a Cirrus, look
> at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk latch from a small car. My
> problem is I don't know which small car! I have a good friend with a
> Cirrus that's trying to find me some info. If anyone out there can shed
> some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>> I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
>> directions.
>>
>> What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
>> the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a point
>> and then tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the theads of
>> these bolts, only to replace them with a one inch long rare earth magnet
>> and five minute epoxy?????
>>
>> There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>> 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
>> past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long
>> enough the it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that was
>> housed by the nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't want the
>> pin bending in the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon door block.
>>
>> Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one inch
>> long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just for the
>> safety of seeing a light go out??
>>
>> 2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
>> when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the
>> switch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
>>
>> I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
>> business card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the foreward
>> pin is closed the rear one is obviously closed by just looking at he
>> inner door fit.
>>
>> So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
>> just place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should I
>> just not hook power to the door system and since the light will always be
>> out, assume it is fine to fly?
>>
>> What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
>>
>> Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
>>
>> JOhn G.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPSMAP 496 For Sale |
Hello Patrick,
=C2-My wife and I did the exact same thing. We sold our 496 and got the 6
96. It's really great!
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 2:47:46 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GPSMAP 496 For Sale
Hi All,
I=99ve decided to upgrade to the 696 and so I=99m putting my 49
6 up for sale.=C2- If anyone is looking for one, I figured I=99d ch
eck with the list before putting it up on ebay.
Unit is in excellent condition with all original accessories and box plus o
ne extra battery.=C2- I=99m located in SoCal and anyone local is we
lcome to come take a look first.
If anyone is interested feel free to make me an offer off list: poneill@ire
alms.com .
Patrick #40715
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Brief heads up for those who haven't put their windshields in yet or
haven't gone to paint yet. My plane is in the paint shop now. I'm
getting mine done at Flying Colors in Gainsville, Texas. Mine is the
3rd 10 that they have painted. All three of us have had cracking that
had to be repaired in the bond between the epoxy fillet at the base of
the windshield to the aluminum. I scuffed, cleaned with acetone, didn't
touch the prepped surface, used West system epoxy and microballoons. I
put the aluminum tabs as per the instructions. It still had some
cracking. I have about 70 hrs. Frustrating.
Ronnie ( the paint and bondo guy), cut out the cracks and redid the
area with West systems and then screwed the repair to the aluminum. The
heads were then filled. The joint looks great now. Will have to give a
report later on how it holds up. I'll also ask him specifically what
fasteners he used.
I wanted to add this information. I remember the posts on the bond of
the windshield to the cabin top. I used the 2 part weld on, spring
clamps and did not get any of the crazing problems noted before.
I have been really impressed with their work so far. Will post pics
when she is done. The price is competitive, he will be done in about 3
weeks from start to finish. I didn't have to get in line for one year
to get it painted. He has good facilities. So far, he's worth a look
if you haven't gone to paint yet. website is flyingcolorsoftexas.com
Dr Fred
Waiting to get it out of the paint shop is almost as bad as waiting for
the DAR to get here to sign her off.......
Maybe done this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
HI,
I thought they were just "considering" monitoring planes over 12,500 lbs ,
and the proposed rule wasn't made yet. But now this? Navajos' are certainly
way under 12,500 lbs.=C2-tsa has no right to be there. I sure hope Obama
et al changes this=C2-and curbs their runaway power grab. They are getti
ng like brownshirts! Total waste of taxpayer dollars. One more reason we ar
e going into the red deepr and deeper on the deficit. How much did it cost
to just change their white uniforms to the new blue ones??
=C2-We are next=C2- if this keeps happening. Can you imagine them stopp
ing us at our hangar searching our car and luggage as we try to go in our
=C2- hangar and put our belongings in our own airplane, trying to tell us
we can't bring 80 items on our OWN plane?? If they tried that on me, I wou
ld end up being hauled off to jail before I would submit...
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Riggs" <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 6:27:49 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: TSA
I was in the Moab, UT airport last September and saw that they had at least
six (there may have been more I didn't see) TSA personnel wandering around
. I can't see why there were ANY TSA there. The airport only gets about thr
ee scheduled flights a day from Salt Lake City using Piper Navajos. The tow
n of Moab is only about 7000. This is not much of an airport. Just a small
rural strip. Typical government reponse I guess. Dan Riggs=C2-
> Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 22:26:26 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: TSA
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
> > Just saw an illustration of why we are , as country, screwed, Flew the
> > 10 to KPRC (Prescott AZ) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant, we
> > saw 6 TSA/law enforcement types standing around.
>
> Just remember, TSA stands for Totally Screwing Aviation. I suppose it
> could be Totally Screwing Americans if they continue down the path they
> are on.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
> http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
>
> "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
> air
>
>
>
Windows Live=84=A2 Hotmail=C2=AE: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail.
===============
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Fred=2C
Did you acid etch after you scuffed with sandpaper and cleaned with acetone
?
JOhn> Date: Mon=2C 19 Jan 2009 09:45:29 -0600> From: drfred@suddenlinkmail.
com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Windshield> > --> RV1
0-List message posted by: "Fred Williams=2C M.D." > > Brief heads up for those who haven't put their windshields in yet or
> haven't gone to paint yet. My plane is in the paint shop now. I'm > getti
ng mine done at Flying Colors in Gainsville=2C Texas. Mine is the > 3rd 10
that they have painted. All three of us have had cracking that > had to be
repaired in the bond between the epoxy fillet at the base of > the windshie
ld to the aluminum. I scuffed=2C cleaned with acetone=2C didn't > touch the
prepped surface=2C used West system epoxy and microballoons. I > put the a
luminum tabs as per the instructions. It still had some > cracking. I have
about 70 hrs. Frustrating.> > Ronnie ( the paint and bondo guy)=2C cut out
the cracks and redid the > area with West systems and then screwed the repa
ir to the aluminum. The > heads were then filled. The joint looks great now
. Will have to give a > report later on how it holds up. I'll also ask him
specifically what > fasteners he used. > > I wanted to add this information
. I remember the posts on the bond of > the windshield to the cabin top. I
used the 2 part weld on=2C spring > clamps and did not get any of the crazi
ng problems noted before. > > I have been really impressed with their work
so far. Will post pics > when she is done. The price is competitive=2C he w
ill be done in about 3 > weeks from start to finish. I didn't have to get i
n line for one year > to get it painted. He has good facilities. So far=2C
he's worth a look > if you haven't gone to paint yet. website is flyingcolo
rsoftexas.com> > Dr Fred> > Waiting to get it out of the paint shop is almo
st as bad as waiting for > the DAR to get here to sign her off.......> Mayb
====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
John Gonzalez wrote:
Yes. Been a year . Forgot I did that part.
Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
The only thing I can think of is that the luggage would get checked at Moab
(people also=2C perhaps) and then go directly to a connecting flight at SL
C without going thru security again. But=2C they sure don't need six people
standing around to take care of several (sometimes less) flights of Navajo
s a day. The flights weren't even full when we were there. What's to keep t
he plane from landing at some small airport on the way back to SLC and pick
ing up "unapproved" items? Bet they hadn't thought of that!
On a side note=2C I told the pilot that I'd bet the plane was older than he
was. Yep=2C the plane was 30 years old and he couldn't have been older tha
n 25. Dan
Date: Mon=2C 19 Jan 2009 15:48:54 +0000From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.netTo: rv1
0-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: TSA
HI=2C
I thought they were just "considering" monitoring planes over 12=2C500 lbs
=2C and the proposed rule wasn't made yet. But now this? Navajos' are certa
inly way under 12=2C500 lbs. tsa has no right to be there. I sure hope Obam
a et al changes this and curbs their runaway power grab. They are getting l
ike brownshirts! Total waste of taxpayer dollars. One more reason we are go
ing into the red deepr and deeper on the deficit. How much did it cost to j
ust change their white uniforms to the new blue ones??
We are next if this keeps happening. Can you imagine them stopping us at
our hangar searching our car and luggage as we try to go in our hangar and
put our belongings in our own airplane=2C trying to tell us we can't bring
80 items on our OWN plane?? If they tried that on me=2C I would end up bei
ng hauled off to jail before I would submit...
Brian
----- Original Message -----From: "Danny Riggs" <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>To: rv10
-list(at)matronics.comSent: Monday=2C January 19=2C 2009 6:27:49 AM GMT -08:00
US/Canada PacificSubject: RE: RV10-List: TSA
I was in the Moab=2C UT airport last September and saw that they had at lea
st six (there may have been more I didn't see) TSA personnel wandering arou
nd. I can't see why there were ANY TSA there. The airport only gets about t
hree scheduled flights a day from Salt Lake City using Piper Navajos. The t
own of Moab is only about 7000. This is not much of an airport. Just a smal
l rural strip. Typical government reponse I guess. Dan Riggs > Date: Sun=2C
ill > > David McNeill wrote:> > Just saw an illustration of
why we are =2C as country=2C screwed=2C Flew the> > 10 to KPRC (Prescott AZ
) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant=2C we> > saw 6 TSA/law enforce
ment types standing around. > > Just remember=2C TSA stands for Totally Scr
ewing Aviation. I suppose it> could be Totally Screwing Americans if they c
ontinue down the path they> are on.> > -Dj> > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV> Spor
tsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ> http://deej.net/sportsm
an/ http://deej.net/kr-2/> > "Many things that are unexplainable happen dur
ing the construction of an> air> > >
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail. Check it
out.
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_hm_justgotbetter_h
owitworks_012009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Stark <jerry_stark(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jammed main gear leg |
You might try Silkroil from Kano Laboratories. I have been amazed at what i
t will loosen. www.Kanolabs.com. No affiliation. About $10
--- On Sun, 1/18/09, eagerlee wrote:
From: eagerlee <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: jammed main gear leg
Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009, 11:51 AM
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the
attach bracket?- We got the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle
jiggle twist and turn effort, but now its wedged in tight.- I think that
some of the powder coat material-chipped off and got between the leg and
the bracket.- We heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with
a
lot of effort)-the leg about 10 degrees-while pulling down on
it.- We've sprayed some silicone in the tube. -This baby is really
stuck.- My next tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy
hammer to drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares
the
hell out of me.- Any ideas??-
-
Paul Hahn
#40203
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Vans Manifold pressure fitting replacement |
What is wrong with the nylon one van's sends?? Doesn't work with AFS or is
it just the material it is made of.
John G> Subject: RV10-List: Vans Manifold pressure fitting replacement> Fro
m: EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> Date: Fri=2C 16 Jan 2009 04:15:22 -08
" > > FYI. > McMaster carr part number 5
058K243 ALUMINUM SINGLE-BARBED TUBE FITTINGS=2C ADAPTER FOR 1/4" TUBE ID X
10-32 UNF MALE=2C BLUE> > This will replace the nylon fitting sent with van
s FWF kit for connection to a AFS or other system.> > --------> eric gohr>
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> > > > > Read this topic online here:> >
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225053#225053> > > > > > > >
============> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans Manifold pressure fitting replacement |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
SG9zZSBiYXJiIG9uIHRoZS4gQWZzIHNlbnNvciBpcyAxLzQgaW5jaCB2YW5zIGlzIDEvOA0KU2Vu
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IHN5c3RlbS4+ID4gLS0tLS0tLS0+IGVyaWMgZ29ocj4gRUdPSFI4NkBhbHVtbmkuY2FybmVnaWVt
ZWxsb24uZWR1PiA+ID4gPiA+IFJlYWQgdGhpcyB0b3BpYyBvbmxpbmUgaGVyZTo+ID4gaHR0cDov
L2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/cD0yMjUwNTMjMjI1MDUzPiA+ID4g
PiA+ID4gPiA+ID09PT09PT09PT09PT4gPiA+IA0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | Vans Manifold pressure fitting replacement |
Thanks=2C I'll order this now and I should need it in a few days. Really ap
preciate it!!!
John
itting replacementFrom: ricksked(at)embarqmail.comDate: Mon=2C 19 Jan 2009 19:
Hose barb on the. Afs sensor is 1/4 inch vans is 1/8
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: John Gonzalez Date: Mon=2C 19 Jan 2009 10:51:37 -0800To: RV 10 group<
rv10-list(at)matronics.com>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans Manifold pressure fitt
ing replacement
What is wrong with the nylon one van's sends?? Doesn't work with AFS or is
= it just the material it is made of. =3BJohn G>=3B Subject: RV10-Lis
t: Vans Manifold pressure fitting rep= lacement>=3B From: EGOHR86@alumn
i.carnegiemellon.edu>=3B Date: = Fri=2C 16 Jan 2009 04:15:22 -0800>
=3B To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com= >=3B >=3B -->=3B RV10-List messa
ge posted by: "egohr1" <=3BEGOH= R86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>=3B>
=3B >=3B FYI. >=3B Mc= Master carr part number 5058K243 ALUMINUM SI
NGLE-BARBED TUBE FITTINGS=2C AD= APTER FOR 1/4" TUBE ID X 10-32 UNF MAL
E=2C BLUE>=3B >=3B This w= ill replace the nylon fitting sent with
vans FWF kit for connection to a AF= S or other system.>=3B >=3B ----
---->=3B eric gohr>= =3B EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>=3B >=
3B >=3B &= gt=3B >=3B Read this topic online here:>=3B >=3B htt
p://f= orums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D225053#225053>=3B >=3B
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net> |
After the fiberglass cures, it's a good idea to use blind rivets before
applying the filler.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield
>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> Yes. Been a year . Forgot I did that part.
> Fred.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Had a similar case on my bird at about the 50 hour point and getting
ready for paint.
Windscreen was starting to work loose from the metal and you could
'oil can' it quite a bit.
On advice (and with significant help from) Joe Mckervy, we re did my
bond to the metal by using layers of 1 inch wide fiberglass strips
soaked in epoxy and laid up.
We did this for several layers, then used super fill to smooth it all
out.
So far, it looks as good as the day we painted it.
Joe is magic with fiberglass, so all the credit is his.
On another subject, I took Tim's advice and added 2 computer cooling
fans last weekend to serve as both avionics hot air exhaust and inner
windscreen defrost (not hooked to heated scat tubing0.
Test flight yesterday was 100% successful.
If you're not yet at the windshield install phase, strongly suggest
you make provisions for windscreen defrost capability of some sort
Lots easier than trying to do it afterwards.....
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 19, 2009, at 9:45 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> >
>
> Brief heads up for those who haven't put their windshields in yet or
> haven't gone to paint yet. My plane is in the paint shop now. I'm
> getting mine done at Flying Colors in Gainsville, Texas. Mine is
> the 3rd 10 that they have painted. All three of us have had
> cracking that had to be repaired in the bond between the epoxy
> fillet at the base of the windshield to the aluminum. I scuffed,
> cleaned with acetone, didn't touch the prepped surface, used West
> system epoxy and microballoons. I put the aluminum tabs as per the
> instructions. It still had some cracking. I have about 70 hrs.
> Frustrating.
>
> Ronnie ( the paint and bondo guy), cut out the cracks and redid the
> area with West systems and then screwed the repair to the aluminum.
> The heads were then filled. The joint looks great now. Will have
> to give a report later on how it holds up. I'll also ask him
> specifically what fasteners he used.
> I wanted to add this information. I remember the posts on the bond
> of the windshield to the cabin top. I used the 2 part weld on,
> spring clamps and did not get any of the crazing problems noted
> before.
> I have been really impressed with their work so far. Will post pics
> when she is done. The price is competitive, he will be done in
> about 3 weeks from start to finish. I didn't have to get in line
> for one year to get it painted. He has good facilities. So far,
> he's worth a look if you haven't gone to paint yet. website is
> flyingcolorsoftexas.com
>
> Dr Fred
>
> Waiting to get it out of the paint shop is almost as bad as waiting
> for the DAR to get here to sign her off.......
> Maybe done this weekend.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Construction Stall Warning System Steps |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Andy,
I've been a bit preoccupied lately, and I haven't gone back to the wingtip section
you refer to, so I'm not real sure what your question is. (Not much help
so far!)
But your post did remind me to mention that we got ahead of ourselves and fastened
the wingtips BEFORE we had installed the flaps and ailerons. As has been
mentioned in other posts, there is some play (rotation) in attaching the fiberglass
wingtip to the wing, and this is critical in lining up the trailing edge
of the wingtip to the trailing edge of the ailerons -- which are lined up with
the trailing edge of the flaps, which are lined up by bumping them in the full
up position (or -3 degree position ... at first glance you'd think they would
be level with the upper wing surface, but they're not).
I don't know if that's helpful, but I sure wish we had paid attention to that earlier
in the build instead of later! It was just irresistible to pop those suckers
on instead of being patient and waiting until the wings were installed
and the flaps/ailerons functional.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225790#225790
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm only building my wings at the moment, and I don't even have the section
of the plans that everyone has referred to with regard to the attaching the
windshield, but whenever I've wanted to attach fiberglass or plexiglass to
metal, I've used phenolics. A phenolic is a piece of composite material
that can be bought in many sizes, easily bonds to fiberglass, and is strong
enough to run a bolt through (with a washer) and attach to metal. I've made
some really solid transitions in the past with phenolics. You just embed
the phenolic into the plexiglass or foam, then bond it with fiberglass,
flox, or both. Then, drill a hole through it for the appropriate
fastener...good to go.
Again, don't know what's being referred to exactly, but figured I'd throw it
out in the chance it may help.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller John" <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield
>
> Had a similar case on my bird at about the 50 hour point and getting
> ready for paint.
>
> Windscreen was starting to work loose from the metal and you could 'oil
> can' it quite a bit.
>
> On advice (and with significant help from) Joe Mckervy, we re did my bond
> to the metal by using layers of 1 inch wide fiberglass strips soaked in
> epoxy and laid up.
>
> We did this for several layers, then used super fill to smooth it all
> out.
>
> So far, it looks as good as the day we painted it.
>
> Joe is magic with fiberglass, so all the credit is his.
>
> On another subject, I took Tim's advice and added 2 computer cooling fans
> last weekend to serve as both avionics hot air exhaust and inner
> windscreen defrost (not hooked to heated scat tubing0.
>
> Test flight yesterday was 100% successful.
>
> If you're not yet at the windshield install phase, strongly suggest you
> make provisions for windscreen defrost capability of some sort Lots
> easier than trying to do it afterwards.....
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> On Jan 19, 2009, at 9:45 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
>> > >
>>
>> Brief heads up for those who haven't put their windshields in yet or
>> haven't gone to paint yet. My plane is in the paint shop now. I'm
>> getting mine done at Flying Colors in Gainsville, Texas. Mine is the
>> 3rd 10 that they have painted. All three of us have had cracking that
>> had to be repaired in the bond between the epoxy fillet at the base of
>> the windshield to the aluminum. I scuffed, cleaned with acetone, didn't
>> touch the prepped surface, used West system epoxy and microballoons. I
>> put the aluminum tabs as per the instructions. It still had some
>> cracking. I have about 70 hrs. Frustrating.
>>
>> Ronnie ( the paint and bondo guy), cut out the cracks and redid the
>> area with West systems and then screwed the repair to the aluminum. The
>> heads were then filled. The joint looks great now. Will have to give a
>> report later on how it holds up. I'll also ask him specifically what
>> fasteners he used.
>> I wanted to add this information. I remember the posts on the bond of
>> the windshield to the cabin top. I used the 2 part weld on, spring
>> clamps and did not get any of the crazing problems noted before.
>> I have been really impressed with their work so far. Will post pics
>> when she is done. The price is competitive, he will be done in about 3
>> weeks from start to finish. I didn't have to get in line for one year
>> to get it painted. He has good facilities. So far, he's worth a look
>> if you haven't gone to paint yet. website is flyingcolorsoftexas.com
>>
>> Dr Fred
>>
>> Waiting to get it out of the paint shop is almost as bad as waiting for
>> the DAR to get here to sign her off.......
>> Maybe done this weekend.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: jammed main gear leg |
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
The leg, she is stuck no more! Today we sprayed some Aero Kroil on the stubborn
right gear leg bracket and packed the leg in ice. We let that set for about
10 minutes and just before adding some heat to the bracket we gave it a try and
it rotated quite freely so we pulled as we twisted and it came out in about
1 minute. Last Friday we worked for about an hour to get it the first half way
out. The differences were that on Friday we applied heat and cold (as appropriate)
to expand the outer and shrink the inner parts, and we lubricated with
silicone instead of penetrating oil. It was the oil that made all the difference,
so much so that we didn't need the heat. Physics and chemistry won out over
force once again. - OH that was one other difference: Today we had a huge double
jack standing next to the fuse in plain sight, but we never had to swing
it.
Paul Hahn
#40203
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225807#225807
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Our particular aircraft had problems with either the
left or right lower door latch popping open in flight.
The method of adjusting the mechanism was not very
well thought out, it was difficult to adjust by adding
or subtracting washers and or adjusting a rod end. Our
Cirrus service center had no guidance or instructions
as to how to make adjustments to the door hardware,
the adjustments were done through hours of trial and
error. The striker posts are mounted in a concentric
hole in the door jam that allows for alignment
adjustments. The posts are not very robust and will
get bent up if any part or the latch system gets out
of adjustment. If that happens you are back to square
one with the door adjustment.
To give you some perspective, our flight department
has a 2004 CJ2 Citation, 2004 Grand Caravan and this
2007 SR22. I am one of two professional pilots that
fly any of the three aircraft. I have flown Randy
DeBauw and Scott Schmidt's RV10s, I will use the basic
Vans design with aftermarket upgrades in my RV10.
Steve 50212
--- linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> Darton Steve wrote:
>
> >
> > Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus
> Turbo
> > G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion
> the
> > door latch mechanism is the weakest design point
> of
> > the aircraft.
> >
> > Steve 50212
> Steve, would you elaborate? I had my first flight
> in my friends Cirrus
> today ..... well, yesterday ;-) ..... and found it
> to be rather solid
> ... and this newbie didn't have any problem closing
> and latching it on
> the first try. I did find it much easier to close
> the door and then
> move the seat forward. The only downside I saw was
> that when you open
> the door, you really had to push the button real
> hard.
> Linn
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
My windscreen faring is about 1.25" taller in both dimensions than plans bu
ild...by accident. Hopefully with the number of laminations and the greater
coverage=2C mine will not separate. Notice there is a foam core buildup fo
llowed by two more layers of 9.0oz satin weave...no wonder I have so many h
ours into the project and I still don't have the engine mounted.The first p
hoto shows the amount of fiberglass overlap on the windscreen. It may look
like the visibility is hamperred=2C but really it isn't.JOhn> From: gengrum
py(at)aol.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield
> Date: Mon=2C 19 Jan 2009 19:48:33 -0600> > --> RV10-List message posted b
y: Miller John > > Had a similar case on my bird at abou
t the 50 hour point and getting > ready for paint.> > Windscreen was start
ing to work loose from the metal and you could > 'oil can' it quite a bit.
> > On advice (and with significant help from) Joe Mckervy=2C we re did my
> bond to the metal by using layers of 1 inch wide fiberglass strips > so
aked in epoxy and laid up.> > We did this for several layers=2C then used s
uper fill to smooth it all > out.> > So far=2C it looks as good as the day
we painted it.> > Joe is magic with fiberglass=2C so all the credit is his
.> > On another subject=2C I took Tim's advice and added 2 computer cooling
> fans last weekend to serve as both avionics hot air exhaust and inner
> windscreen defrost (not hooked to heated scat tubing0.> > Test flight yes
terday was 100% successful.> > If you're not yet at the windshield install
phase=2C strongly suggest > you make provisions for windscreen defrost cap
ability of some sort > Lots easier than trying to do it afterwards.....>
> grumpy> N184JM> > On Jan 19=2C 2009=2C at 9:45 AM=2C Fred Williams=2C M.D
ed(at)suddenlinkmail.com >>>>>>> Brief heads up for those who haven't put thei
r windshields in yet or >> haven't gone to paint yet. My plane is in the
paint shop now. I'm >> getting mine done at Flying Colors in Gainsville
=2C Texas. Mine is >> the 3rd 10 that they have painted. All three of u
s have had >> cracking that had to be repaired in the bond between the epo
xy >> fillet at the base of the windshield to the aluminum. I scuffed=2C
>> cleaned with acetone=2C didn't touch the prepped surface=2C used West
>> system epoxy and microballoons. I put the aluminum tabs as per the >> i
nstructions. It still had some cracking. I have about 70 hrs. >> Frust
rating.>>>> Ronnie ( the paint and bondo guy)=2C cut out the cracks and re
did the >> area with West systems and then screwed the repair to the alumi
num. >> The heads were then filled. The joint looks great now. Will hav
e >> to give a report later on how it holds up. I'll also ask him >> spe
cifically what fasteners he used.>> I wanted to add this information. I re
member the posts on the bond >> of the windshield to the cabin top. I use
d the 2 part weld on=2C >> spring clamps and did not get any of the crazin
g problems noted >> before.>> I have been really impressed with their work
so far. Will post pics >> when she is done. The price is competitive=2C
he will be done in >> about 3 weeks from start to finish. I didn't have
to get in line >> for one year to get it painted. He has good facilities.
So far=2C >> he's worth a look if you haven't gone to paint yet. websi
te is >> flyingcolorsoftexas.com>>>> Dr Fred>>>> Waiting to get it out of
the paint shop is almost as bad as waiting >> for the DAR to get here to s
========================> _
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January 09, 2009 - Present
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eb