RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ee

January 27, 2009 - February 07, 2009



      
      http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/ELT/Ameriking.html
      
      Michael
      
      -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
Tim this brochure gives the detail you want. It looks like some dealers have very good discounts on this unit, under $600 http://www.seaerospace.com/lc/cart.php?target=productDetails&model=AK-451&substring=ak-451 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2009
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Recall: RV-List: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip
installation] Mark has a lot of cool little ideas. I've stole, er, ah, leveraged a few of his ideas including my hat shelf and baggage compartment lockers. :) Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 12:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: [Fwd: Re: Recall: RV-List: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation] Forwarded to both RV and RV-10 lists! I saw and RV recently that had screws holding ALL of the tips. It was really done nice, but the first thought that flitted through my brain ..... how much extra weight from screws and nutplates and how much extra time spent installing them? I'm leaning to the carbinge for the wing tips, but the rest will be attached with pulled rivets like the plans call for. Linn http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961 Hi Linn- Here's a direct link to the section of my Expercraft website detailing the wingtip installation. It is a single entry with subsequent entries accessed by clicking on the "Next Entry>>" link at the top of the page. Oddly, I am replying to your post to the RV-list but only your address appears in my "To" window (borrowed Mac!) so if you'd like to forward this to the RV-list feel free to do so! Any questionds, gimme a holler... Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
From: "msausen" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2009
Kelly wrote: > > > You are probably correct. From their brochure, if what you say is true, > I would call it deceptive advertising. I would interpret the w/GPS to > actually have a built-in GPS, as opposed to just an interface. BWTFDIK. > Sure would be nice if the literature were clearer on the available options. > > -- Steve wrote: > > > Is 36 years as an avionics technician enough experience? > > -- I agree and had the exact same thought as you Kelly. Even had an email T'd up to that effect when I slapped myself and remembered this old thing sitting in front of me with a bunch of numbered buttons on it. I punched a few of them and was talking (loosley defined as I wouldn't call what I was hearing english) to their tech guy. Either way he was very clear on the differences between the units and that only the expensive one could take GPS data. And Steve, I certainly wasn't disregarding what you were saying but I also wasn't sure if you were quoting direct experience or the brochure as it really could have been interpreted either way. As the old saying goes, trust but verify. Michael Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227193#227193 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2009
Subject: Re: GRT and G530W
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
I am away from my records until the end of the week. There used to be two wires going to G530. There are four wires now. They all relate to ARINC stuff. I am guessing 4from memory, 8-49 going to 3 &4 on the GRT. On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:54 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > Thanks Rob. I'm in the process of installing and just downloaded the latest > diagram WD-1007-01. Which wires are new? > > Bill Watson > > Rob Kermanj wrote: >> >> >> FYI: >> >> According to GRT, their latest update will now enable the unit to do the >> entire approach (procedure turns/holds, the whole nine yards!) without >> flipping any switches for the Trutrak auto pilot input. This requires two >> additional wires between G530w and GRT. If you are in the planning/building >> stage, this is a good time to think about it. They have an updated wiring >> diagram. >> >> Rob >> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Rob Kermanj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: FW: E04
Ask me a specific question .... maybe I can help. I don't see anything out of the ordinary .... but then I know what I'm looking at! Linn David McNeill wrote: > FYI. I am still trying to make sense of the diagram. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Mike Akatiff [mailto:MikeA(at)ackavionics.com] > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:56 AM > *To:* 'David McNeill' > *Subject:* RE: E04 > > Here it is > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net] > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 27, 2009 10:39 AM > *To:* mikea(at)ackavionics.com > *Subject:* E04 > > > > wiring pdf please > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
Tim Olson wrote: > > That's very cool that they have an In and an Out. Right now > I have a GPS signal split that goes to my APRS, also, so in the > case of the ELT, I'll probably change the APRS so that the ELT > gets the GPS signal and then outputs it to the APRS. It should > be almost nothing to change my wiring to support that plan. > Thanks for the update David. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Tim, I'd just hook all the items needing GPS input directly to the GPS. Going through the ELT may (or may not depending on just how it's wired) cause a problem if the ELT fails, and you'd never know it. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
Date: Jan 27, 2009
AWESOME Imagination!!! Where does he find the time?> Subject: RE: RV10-List : Ameri-King AK-451 ELT> Date: Tue=2C 27 Jan 2009 18:05:28 -0500> From: rob in1(at)mrmoisture.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > --> RV10-List message po sted by: "Robin Marks" > > Tim=2C> You have another option in case you go down. Searchers can just> go online to see your late st web postings of your trip with updated> crash photos and PIREPs on equip ment performance for off field landings.> I further expect by the time the rescue team located the site you will> have the whole Swill Family Robinson tree house thing going on with> Andria preparing lunch for the kids while they ride the stationary bike> you built to power the Satellite TV on your =======> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2009
Subject: Re: Fw: Alternator failure
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Suggest sending readers digest version of your story to Avweb for consideration as FBO of the week, and/or copy AirNav. FBOs see those comments and appreciate them. On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 12:04 PM, Bob-tcw wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob-tcw > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 12:19 PM > Subject: Alternator failure > Fellow builders, > > I'd like to share a little adventure we had last week and how it may > impact my RV-10 project. > My Dad and I were cruising along at 8500' enroute from PA down to FL in our > Glastar when I noticed an annoying red light on the instrument panel. That > little red light of course was a low voltage warning light, and sure enough > we were on battery power at that point, the alternator was doing nothing > useful at all. We requested a landing at Charlottesville VA, KCHO and > within 15 minutes were on the ground. They let us bring our airplane inside > a heated hangar to sort out our electrical problems. We'll we got the true > southern hospitality treatment. A mechanic came over and offered us the > use of any of his tools that we needed (although he was way to busy to work > on our plane). We removed the cowling and then the alternator and ohmed out > the field winding of the alternator, it appeared to be an open > circuit. The alternator was a Ford Motorcraft as originally supplied with > our 1960's vintage Lycoming 0-320. (however it had been rebuilt in > 2001, and now had about 350 hours of run time) We asked the mechanic if he > had any recommendations on a place to check and possibly replace our 'Ford' > alternator. He said, "Sure, I'll call Advanced Autoparts, I think they have > an alternator "spinner"". Sure enough, they did. So the mechanic gave us > the keys to his truck and we visited the aviation department of Advanced > Autoparts. Well the alternator was really dead and they actually had the > exact replacement in stock! So $57 later we were back on our way to the > airport. Well we put it all back together and sure enough we were back in > business, the aircraft bus voltage was back up to 14 volts!. We thanked > everyone over and over, took on some fuel and just over 2.5 hours after > discovering the problem we were back in the air. We were incredibly > fortunate that day to meet such wonderful folks as we did at KCHO. But we > also really enjoyed the benefits of building and flying a homebuilt. > There is no way that we would have been able to continue our journey that > day if we were flying a certified aircraft, There were no mechanics that > could spend their time working on our airplane on that day, And almost > certainly they would have had to order a new alternator (that wouldn't have > been $57!). > > So the lessons learned that I'm going to apply to my RV-10: > 1) Low voltage idiot lights work, they are a must have in my book > 2) Although we were able to safely make it to an alternate airport on > battery power, a back-up alternator equipped engine really ups the > convenience factor. We were incredibly lucky to get our airplane fixed and > flying again the same day. If we had a back-up alternator and were flying > VFR as we were, we would have probably just continued on our way to > Florida. > 3) Bring a decent tool kit, We had the very basic tools in our airplane > tool kit, but I'm now going to add a small DMM (multi-meter) to the kit. > 4) A condensed set of basic wiring schematics for the airplane could > have been a necessity. If the alternator wasn't the problem, I really > would have had a difficult time trouble shooting much more as I was working > completely from memory on how I wired the plane (almost 10 years ago). > > > Bob Newman > TCW Technologies, LLC. > www.tcwtech.com > RV-10 40176 - finish kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Door strut
Date: Jan 28, 2009
I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several people about this and they're having the same problem. A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others I'm sure. I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com. The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 each. They didn't have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in. On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good. Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100 miles in the dark. About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine. So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from the rudder. I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise. Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up there in the north country loosened it up. Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: hello all
From: "Y-it" <wyattwest(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2009
Welcome Dave, Sound like you and I are at about the same spot. I just purchased a QB wing/Fuse and am going over the plans to find out what the next step is (which is harder than I thought) Looks like it will be floor panels and baggage door. Its amazing how much work is done with the QB option. Kinda seems like if I put the lid on I could be flying tomorrow :) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227340#227340 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2009
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door strut
Wayne, What's with you and them nosewheels=C2- :) does anyone recommend increasi ng the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to chec k it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each other.=C2- At what=C2- point can you=C2-stop checking the tension=C2- frequently ? Rick S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RV10-List: Door strut I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by Va n's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me or a p assenger=C2-in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several peo ple about this and they're having the same problem. A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has a 1 0, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would pass along th e source for these in case any of you are having the same problem. Both Ron =C2-and I have full interiors with the doors being finished with arm rest s, so that makes them a little heavier than others I'm sure. I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com . The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 eac h. They didn=99t have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in. On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this pas t weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip ball was const antly out to the left so I had to keep applying left rudder. I usually don' t have an issue with rudder so I was attributing some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good. Anyway in=C2-leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I rented into=C2-a minus 30 degrees wind-chill=C2-weather. Man after being in T exas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was cold. =C2-One positive of the cold was thick air and=C2-the plane was really liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the ball centered.=C2-We ended up with=C2-head winds and=C2-had to fly the la st=C2-100 miles in the dark.=C2- About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly notic eable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't real thr illed with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was=C2-obviously concerned because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but everything fel t fine there and the=C2-engine parameters were all=C2-fine. So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what=C2-was causing th at problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of mine, lifted up th e plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. I found that the whee l was=C2-fairly loose and could be pushed from side to side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just gotten more play. I tigh tened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from the rudder. I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when I start ed to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise. Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this sam e thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional before flying to=C2-Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up ther e in the north country loosened it up.=C2- Wayne Edgerton N602WT == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Gascolator.
Topic of discussion at lunch today. Why isn't there a gascolator in the fuel injected systems? What would be the potential problems if there was one? Dr Fred. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door strut
Date: Jan 28, 2009
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
The day after you sell it...? neal << At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently? Rick S. >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Door strut
Date: Jan 28, 2009
Wayne, Do you know how many lbs of force these new struts have vs. how many lbs the struts have that came from vans? I was working on my doors/canopy recently and decided to measure the strut force on my van's supplied parts. I measured 120 lbs force required to compress the strut and thought that was an amazing amount of force even given the tight geometry of door/strut mounting brackets. thoughts?? Thanks, Bob Newman ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 10:37 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door strut I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several people about this and they're having the same problem. A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others I'm sure. I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com. The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 each. They didn't have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in. On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good. Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100 miles in the dark. About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine. So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from the rudder. I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise. Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up there in the north country loosened it up. Wayne Edgerton N602WT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Door strut
Rick, to answer your question about > 25lbs, that's what I did the 2nd or 3rd time I did mine. With that castlenut, I could choose between maybe 18-20lbs, or maybe 30-35lbs, so with the past experience, I chose the higher. Now when I did the Matco axle, I just did a guesstimate by hand and I'd say I was now in the 20's somewhere. So I'd err on the high side within reason, if you have to choose. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Rick Sked wrote: > Wayne, > > > > What's with you and them nosewheels :) does anyone recommend increasing > the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to > check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each > other. At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently? > > > > Rick S. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: RV10-List: Door strut > > I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by > Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me > or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several > people about this and they're having the same problem. > > A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has > a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his > problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would > pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same > problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being > finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others > I'm sure. > > I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business > Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com. > > The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 > each. They didnt have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they > said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in. > > On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this > past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I > thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip > ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left > rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing > some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good. > > Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow > storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I > rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in > Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was > cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really > liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the > ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100 > miles in the dark. > > About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly > noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't > real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine > was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned > because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but > everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine. > > So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and > landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was > causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all > surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of > mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. > I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to > side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. > The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just > gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight > and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from > the rudder. > > I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one > side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when > I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind > hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise. > > Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this > same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional > before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up > there in the north country loosened it up. > > Wayne Edgerton N602WT > > > > > > * > > get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > p://forums.matronics.com > blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door strut
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Jan 28, 2009
I'm swapping my nose wheel out with Grove unit so I thought I'd ask before lowering the nose down. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 13:16:42 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door strut Rick, to answer your question about > 25lbs, that's what I did the 2nd or 3rd time I did mine. With that castlenut, I could choose between maybe 18-20lbs, or maybe 30-35lbs, so with the past experience, I chose the higher. Now when I did the Matco axle, I just did a guesstimate by hand and I'd say I was now in the 20's somewhere. So I'd err on the high side within reason, if you have to choose. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Rick Sked wrote: > Wayne, > > > > What's with you and them nosewheels :) does anyone recommend increasing > the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to > check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each > other. At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently? > > > > Rick S. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: RV10-List: Door strut > > I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by > Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me > or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several > people about this and they're having the same problem. > > A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has > a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his > problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would > pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same > problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being > finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others > I'm sure. > > I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business > Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com. > > The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 > each. They didnt have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they > said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in. > > On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this > past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I > thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip > ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left > rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing > some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good. > > Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow > storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I > rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in > Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was > cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really > liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the > ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100 > miles in the dark. > > About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly > noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't > real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine > was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned > because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but > everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine. > > So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and > landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was > causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all > surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of > mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. > I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to > side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. > The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just > gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight > and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from > the rudder. > > I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one > side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when > I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind > hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise. > > Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this > same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional > before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up > there in the north country loosened it up. > > Wayne Edgerton N602WT > > > > > > * > > get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > p://forums.matronics.com > blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2009
does anyone now whether the 'footprint' on the small unit in the panel would be changed for the new gps-elt. i assume you would have to run a wire to the new elt from your gps. (long way to the tail!!) larry -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227409#227409 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
Date: Jan 28, 2009
The panel switch is compatible so you don't even change that. Also, I have a GPS signal to my APRS right next to the battery so in my case it's one short wire run and I'm done. Should maybe be a 1-2 hr project. Tim On Jan 28, 2009, at 5:16 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote: > > does anyone now whether the 'footprint' on the small unit in the > panel would be changed for the new gps-elt. i assume you would have > to run a wire to the new elt from your gps. (long way to the > tail!!) larry > > -------- > Larry and Gayle N104LG > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227409#227409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mistake on the Aft Deck: Fixed
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Hi Everyone, I've had a couple of people ask how I repaired the boo-boo on the aft deck. Last night I finally got around to repairing it and thought I'd share with the group. Maybe you'll have an opportunity to do something similar during your build. :) It sounds like a lot of work and definitely is not the simplest fix, but I have absolutely no concerns about the long term integrity of the repair. I can't claim credit for solution. David McNeill put me in touch with an A&P IA who sketched out the design and sent it to me Thanks David! Phil This is the original damage... You can see the longeron below and it's fine, but the aft deck skin was pretty messed up. The damage extended beyond an AD5 rivet and it's possible that an AN3 bolt probably wouldn't have fully removed it. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3528 .jpg I was only 7 rivets into installing the aft deck when my screw up happened, so I went ahead and removed the entire deck. It made working on the pieces make easier. Once it was off the airplane, I removed the damaged area with a uni-bit and deburred the hole. It required a 5/16" hole to remove the damaged area. Next up was to create a 5/16" plug for the hole. The plug was made from .040 scrap and matches the same .040 thickness of the deck. My buddy is an A&P and he stopped by take part in the process. He did a great job of building a round plug that fits the hole perfectly! The first photo shows the plug and the sitting beside the hole. The second photo shows the plug sitting inside the hole. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3531 .jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3532 .jpg Next up was to re-create the rivet hole. We did this with a 90 degree drill and came up through the bottom of the longeron. To keep the plug from spinning, we taped it down with duct tape and applied pressure with a wooden block from the top. It worked pretty well. We were able to get 80% of the way through the plug before the tape gave and the plug started to spin. However the hole was started deep enough that we could finish drilling it out on the workbench. Looks pretty good! http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3534 .jpg Finally, we created a doubler out of .040 scrap (same thickness/strength as the deck skin). The doubler has 5 rivets. Obviously it's centered on the plug and we picked up the adjacent longeron rivets. Then we attached the doubler to the deck skin inboard of the longerons. We thought about adding two additional rivets by splitting the distance between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets, but after looking at it closer we opted out of that decision. There isn't much clearance for rivet pitch (spacing) by splitting those holes. Sure we could have done it and it would have been fine by the book, but we would have been sitting a minimums. When we weighed that reality with the reality weakening the longeron by drilling additional holes - we decided it was better to leave well enough alone. On the inboard deck rivets, we chose to split them between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets. This was by design to share the shear load between the plug rivet and it's adjacent longeron rivets. Here is the finished product. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3535 .jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2009
I ran across these the other day. The mesh screen covers would be a bit more attractive than some other alternatives I've seen discussed in the past. http://www.directron.com/smf80.html Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227521#227521 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
Those are neat looking. My solution is to get window screen (used to be able to get aluminum, but now all I find is fiberglass) and spray a wet coat of paint on it to match and protect the screen from UV. Linn jayb wrote: > > I ran across these the other day. The mesh screen covers would be a bit more attractive than some other alternatives I've seen discussed in the past. > > http://www.directron.com/smf80.html > > Regards, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227521#227521 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: MT propeller and cowling work
Date: Jan 29, 2009
I have been told to not use the propeller and the spinner to do my cowl fii tting as it will most likely damage the finish of the spinner. Can anyone direct me to a source for how to make a plywood template and dir ection on how it comes together. I was told that this document exists=2C bu t I don't know it's source. Thanks=2C JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Regardless of which direction you go, it turns out that the location where the fans are (at least in my install) aren't really that visible in the first place. Now, if you had chrome grills or something like that where they stood out it would certainly make a difference. I've got the grill area painted flat black and the covering I used on the glare shield is also flat black, fake leather. Unless you're looking for the fans, you really don't notice that they're there. Here's what I'm using for the glareshield cover and edging: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GSF15 I've also heard that Abby also now makes glare shield covers and will put custom cutouts in for defrost fans. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens I ran across these the other day. The mesh screen covers would be a bit more attractive than some other alternatives I've seen discussed in the past. http://www.directron.com/smf80.html Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227521#227521 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Lynn - Check your local Ace Hardware. The one here in Navarre, FL keeps a roll of brass screen on the shelf. Not cheap, but it doesn't take much and it won't rust... Neal ============= Those are neat looking. My solution is to get window screen (used to be able to get aluminum, but now all I find is fiberglass) and spray a wet coat of paint on it to match and protect the screen from UV. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: heads up
Date: Jan 29, 2009
When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mistake on the Aft Deck: Fixed
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Hi Everyone, I've had a couple of people ask how I repaired the boo-boo on the aft deck. Last night I finally got around to repairing it and thought I'd share with the group. Maybe you'll have an opportunity to do something similar during your build. :) It sounds like a lot of work and definitely is not the simplest fix, but I have absolutely no concerns about the long term integrity of the repair. I can't claim credit for solution. David McNeill put me in touch with an A&P IA who sketched out the design and sent it to me Thanks David! Phil This is the original damage... You can see the longeron below and it's fine, but the aft deck skin was pretty messed up. The damage extended beyond an AD5 rivet and it's possible that an AN3 bolt probably wouldn't have fully removed it. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3528 .jpg I was only 7 rivets into installing the aft deck when my screw up happened, so I went ahead and removed the entire deck. It made working on the pieces make easier. Once it was off the airplane, I removed the damaged area with a uni-bit and deburred the hole. It required a 5/16" hole to remove the damaged area. Next up was to create a 5/16" plug for the hole. The plug was made from .040 scrap and matches the same .040 thickness of the deck. My buddy is an A&P and he stopped by take part in the process. He did a great job of building a round plug that fits the hole perfectly! The first photo shows the plug and the sitting beside the hole. The second photo shows the plug sitting inside the hole. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3531 .jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3532 .jpg Next up was to re-create the rivet hole. We did this with a 90 degree drill and came up through the bottom of the longeron. To keep the plug from spinning, we taped it down with duct tape and applied pressure with a wooden block from the top. It worked pretty well. We were able to get 80% of the way through the plug before the tape gave and the plug started to spin. However the hole was started deep enough that we could finish drilling it out on the workbench. Looks pretty good! http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3534 .jpg Finally, we created a doubler out of .040 scrap (same thickness/strength as the deck skin). The doubler has 5 rivets. Obviously it's centered on the plug and we picked up the adjacent longeron rivets. Then we attached the doubler to the deck skin inboard of the longerons. We thought about adding two additional rivets by splitting the distance between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets, but after looking at it closer we opted out of that decision. There isn't much clearance for rivet pitch (spacing) by splitting those holes. Sure we could have done it and it would have been fine by the book, but we would have been sitting a minimums. When we weighed that reality with the reality weakening the longeron by drilling additional holes - we decided it was better to leave well enough alone. On the inboard deck rivets, we chose to split them between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets. This was by design to share the shear load between the plug rivet and it's adjacent longeron rivets. Here is the finished product. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3535 .jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Date: Jan 29, 2009
One consideration prior to replacing your old ELT or installing a 406 MHz unit in your new aircraft: FAR 91.207 (d) (4) requires annual inspection for the presence of sufficient signal radiated from the ELT antenna. This is not a big deal for the old 121.5 ELT's and only requires an aviation receiver. It is a big deal for the 406 MHz units as the test devices are almost $3K. Not every shop has one and the DIYers in the experimental arena probably don't have one yet. Might be a good purchase for the local EAA chapter. Also, in most cases the unit will have to be removed from the aircraft for testing, and enclosed in a Faraday shield to prevent a false data burst. The aircraft antenna would then be tested separately. I have heard the FCC aggressively prosecutes violators, and after registration they will know who you are and where you live. The double and triple ELT units that transmit on 121.5 MHZ, 406 MHz and 243 MHZ (military) frequencies simultaneously will satisfy the ELT requirement as you can still DIY test the 121.5 MHz signal. The 406 MHz burst theoretically occurs 50 seconds after the unit is triggered, so hopefully you could get the unit deactivated before that occurs. How this will be addressed in the future is unknown, and is one of the reasons the 121.5 MHz units are still permitted. Until the dust settles on this issue, I am keeping my old ELT for the FAR requirement, and purchased the ACR ResqFix PLB with on-board GPS. Thanks Tim for recommending this unit, $520 at Puget Sound Inflatables. Steve Roberts (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2009
From: Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: MT propeller and cowling work
John, I found it on the Van's web site. (Hunt around a bit) Applicable to all models. Easy to make and quite useful. Regards, Dave Lammers forever finishing John Gonzalez wrote: > I have been told to not use the propeller and the spinner to do my > cowl fiitting as it will most likely damage the finish of the spinner. > > Can anyone direct me to a source for how to make a plywood template > and direction on how it comes together. I was told that this document > exists, but I don't know it's source. > > Thanks, > > JOhn G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 406 MHZ ELT
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2009
Steve, I recently discovered an easy way to do the signal radiation test. Several weeks ago I installed my Artex ME406 elt. About 9 PM that night I answered a knock on the door and was greeted by a very pleasant man from the Civil Air Patrol, holding his direction finder. I had inadvertently triggered my elt during installation and he had picked up the signal 10 miles away, ground to ground. This method is probably not FAA approved, but it is effective. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227590#227590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
Date: Jan 29, 2009
Jay I ordered these quite a while ago. I've installed them in the forward fuse but am not yet flying. All I can say as to their effectiveness is they fit nice and look good. -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens I ran across these the other day. The mesh screen covers would be a bit more attractive than some other alternatives I've seen discussed in the past. http://www.directron.com/smf80.html Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227521#227521 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3811 (20090129) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3811 (20090129) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 'do not tow'
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2009
Here is a sad towing story. Mary and I were bringing our airplane home from the paint shop. The maiden voyage! We stopped in Wichita to visit family and show off the airplane. I arranged to have it put into the hangar overnight and told the line manager I wanted to be there when they moved it. He was a sharp guy and came over and let me show him what the towing issues are. He said he was going to the other end of the airport to get another airplane and would move it when he got back. Elderly in-laws showed up and I got involved with them. Long story short, one of the other line guy's decided to hook up and move the airplane by himself. The results are attached. To make matters worse, he acted like he had not noticed the damage when he unhooked the airplane and went on his merry way! He is no longer employed, and my wheel pant is on it's way back to the paint shop and will be repaired and repainted on the FBO's nickle. [Crying or Very sad] -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227598#227598 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0916_777.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0914_314.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Subject: Re: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens
Date: Jan 29, 2009
Bob And Abby's glare shield covers with fan cutouts include the screens! John H ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 11:24 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens > > > Regardless of which direction you go, it turns out that the location > where the fans are (at least in my install) aren't really that visible > in the first place. Now, if you had chrome grills or something like > that where they stood out it would certainly make a difference. I've > got the grill area painted flat black and the covering I used on the > glare shield is also flat black, fake leather. Unless you're looking > for the fans, you really don't notice that they're there. > > Here's what I'm using for the glareshield cover and edging: > http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GSF15 > I've also heard that Abby also now makes glare shield covers and will > put custom cutouts in for defrost fans. > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb > Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:01 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Defrost fan steel mesh filter screens > > > I ran across these the other day. The mesh screen covers would be a bit > more attractive than some other alternatives I've seen discussed in the > past. > > http://www.directron.com/smf80.html > > Regards, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227521#227521 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: MT propeller and cowling work
I did some "hunting around" and found it on the Van's construction FAQ page. About half way down, titled Simulating the Propeller for fitting the Cowl <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm> Larry Rosen Dave Lammers wrote: > John, > I found it on the Van's web site. (Hunt around a bit) Applicable to > all models. > Easy to make and quite useful. > Regards, > Dave Lammers > forever finishing > > John Gonzalez wrote: >> I have been told to not use the propeller and the spinner to do my >> cowl fiitting as it will most likely damage the finish of the spinner. >> >> Can anyone direct me to a source for how to make a plywood template >> and direction on how it comes together. I was told that this document >> exists, but I don't know it's source. >> >> Thanks, >> >> JOhn G. 409 >> * >> >> >> * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Steve, You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. using a VHF radio. Patrick Thyssen One day I to will fly. --- On Thu, 1/29/09, Steven Roberts wrote: From: Steven Roberts <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 3:22 PM One consideration prior to replacing your old ELT or installing a 406 MHz unit in your new aircraft: - FAR 91.207 (d) (4) requires annual inspection for the presence of sufficient signal radiated f rom the ELT antenna. -This is not a big deal for the old 121.5 ELT=A2s and only requires an aviation receiver.- It is a big deal for the 406 MHz units as the test devices are almost $3K. -Not every shop has one and the DIYers in the experimental arena probably don=A2t have one yet. -Might be a good purchase for the local EAA chapter.- Also, in most cases the unit will have to be removed from the aircraft for testing, and enclosed in a Faraday shield to prevent a false data burst.- The aircraft antenna would then be tested separately. -I have heard the FCC aggressively prosecutes violators, and after registration they will know who you are and where you live. - The double and triple ELT units that transmit on 121.5 MHZ, 406 MHz and 243 MHZ (military) frequencies simultaneously will satisfy the ELT requirement as you can stil l DIY test the 121.5 MHz signal. The 406 MHz burst theoretically occurs 50 second s after the unit is triggered, so hopefully you could get the unit deactivate d before that occurs. - How this will be addressed in the future is unknown, and is one of the reasons the 121.5 MHz units are still permitted.- Until the dust settles on this issue, I am keeping my old ELT for the FAR requirement, and purchased the ACR ResqFix P LB with on-board GPS.- Thanks Tim for recommending this unit, $520 at Puget Sound Inflatables. - Steve Roberts (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) - N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E =A1Ms. Obsession=A2 KMOR Morristown , TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 'do not tow'
Date: Jan 30, 2009
My wheel pant too, was broken in half by an energetic line boy. As one who has suffered the same "low IQ and high authority" in a line boy, I think that this is one of those areas where we 10 owners just cannot allow others to handle our aircraft. Even after complete instructions they do not understand that the 10 is not a 20,000 lb corporate aircraft. It is painful to come out and see your brand new aircraft looking like that. My FBO bent over backwards to make it right, but no matter what they do, it cannot be made right. My heart goes out to you David. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 7:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: 'do not tow' Here is a sad towing story. Mary and I were bringing our airplane home from the paint shop. The maiden voyage! We stopped in Wichita to visit family and show off the airplane. I arranged to have it put into the hangar overnight and told the line manager I wanted to be there when they moved it. He was a sharp guy and came over and let me show him what the towing issues are. He said he was going to the other end of the airport to get another airplane and would move it when he got back. Elderly in-laws showed up and I got involved with them. Long story short, one of the other line guy's decided to hook up and move the airplane by himself. The results are attached. To make matters worse, he acted like he had not noticed the damage when he unhooked the airplane and went on his merry way! He is no longer employed, and my wheel pant is on it's way back to the paint shop and will be repaired and repainted on the FBO's nickle. [Crying or Very sad] -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227598#227598 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0916_777.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0914_314.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: Mistake on the Aft Deck: Fixed
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I tried to send this yesterday with embedded photo's but apparently the e-mail was too large with the attachments. So I'm resending with links to the appropriate photos. Thanks! Phil ________________________________ From: Perry, Phil Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:23 AM Subject: Mistake on the Aft Deck: Fixed Hi Everyone, I've had a couple of people ask how I repaired the boo-boo on the aft deck. Last night I finally got around to repairing it and thought I'd share with the group. Maybe you'll have an opportunity to do something similar during your build. :) It sounds like a lot of work and definitely is not the simplest fix, but I have absolutely no concerns about the long term integrity of the repair. I can't claim credit for solution. David McNeill put me in touch with an A&P IA who sketched out the design and sent it to me Thanks David! Phil This is the original damage... You can see the longeron below and it's fine, but the aft deck skin was pretty messed up. The damage extended beyond an AD5 rivet and it's possible that an AN3 bolt probably wouldn't have fully removed it. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3528 .jpg ============ I was only 7 rivets into installing the aft deck when my screw up happened, so I went ahead and removed the entire deck. It made working on the pieces make easier. Once it was off the airplane, I removed the damaged area with a uni-bit and deburred the hole. It required a 5/16" hole to remove the damaged area. Next up was to create a 5/16" plug for the hole. The plug was made from .040 scrap and matches the same .040 thickness of the deck. My buddy is an A&P and he stopped by take part in the process. He did a great job of building a round plug that fits the hole perfectly! The first photo shows the plug and the sitting beside the hole. The second photo shows the plug sitting inside the hole. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3531 .jpg http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3532 .jpg ============ Next up was to re-create the rivet hole. We did this with a 90 degree drill and came up through the bottom of the longeron. To keep the plug from spinning, we taped it down with duct tape and applied pressure with a wooden block from the top. It worked pretty well. We were able to get 80% of the way through the plug before the tape gave and the plug started to spin. However the hole was started deep enough that we could finish drilling it out on the workbench. Looks pretty good! http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3534 .jpg ============ Finally, we created a doubler out of .040 scrap (same thickness/strength as the deck skin). The doubler has 5 rivets. Obviously it's centered on the plug and we picked up the adjacent longeron rivets. Then we attached the doubler to the deck skin inboard of the longerons. We thought about adding two additional rivets by splitting the distance between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets, but after looking at it closer we opted out of that decision. There isn't much clearance for rivet pitch (spacing) by splitting those holes. Sure we could have done it and it would have been fine by the book, but we would have been sitting a minimums. When we weighed that reality with the reality weakening the longeron by drilling additional holes - we decided it was better to leave well enough alone. On the inboard deck rivets, we chose to split them between the plug and the adjacent longeron rivets. This was by design to share the shear load between the plug rivet and it's adjacent longeron rivets. Here is the finished product. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3535 .jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: heads up
This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. - Bill DeRouchey N939SB --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: heads up Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM When carrying four adults, be aware that one front-seater should remain s eated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, t he right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear a nd struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited t o the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have no t added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 406 MHZ ELT
I-not so brilliantly-tested mine to the COSPAS satellite and hence test ed the process from beginning to end. - My remote activation switch was located on a removable section of the Stein panel linking to a harness through a large AMP connector. Somehow when I r emoved the panel it set off my ME406. The buzzer that came with the unit ha s a high pitch that only a dog can detect. After an unknown amount of time I sensed something was amiss and started frantically removing the screws in the tail fairing. Note that my aircraft was inside a metal hanger with the big doors opened not more than one foot. - About halfway through the 30 (or so) screws securing the tail fairing my ce ll phone rang. It was a Sergeant from the Air Force in Florida. I told him the story and all was well. Then I asked what was the overall response time and the process he follows. From onset it was 13 minutes and he had alread y called my Dad and Sara. We said goodbye. I removed another 10 screws and the cell phone rang again. This time it was a lady from Search and Rescue i n Alaska. I went through the story again except she wanted the long alphanu meric string to verify it was really me. Fortunately, I had my aircraft dia ry nearby with the ME406 documented. She said goodbye and warned me that th e Coast Guard would call next. - I relocated the remote switch to a fixed point to the left of my lower leg. Actually, all the emergency switches are located in a row at the same loca tion to keep the panel uncluttered: ELT, alt air, oil winter flap, alt stat ic air. AND - I pasted and sealed an extra ELT Beacon sticker to the side o f my registration placard so I could say the long alphanumeric code without opening up the tail fairing. - Guys, these new 406Mhz units work exceptionally well and there is a good pr ocess behind the alert. The 121.5Mhz units were seldom more than a comfort while you died and never a bargain at $200 (or so). Note that the 121.5 pro cess had a mandatory 8 hour wait for additional verification to filter out false signals. So, if you calculate a blood drip rate at .... - One item of concern with carrying a PLB as your 406Mhz device. As I remembe r the COSPAS packet or Beacon ID indicates-if the alert source is a Perso nal LB, Aviation LB, or Marine LB. The rescue process could be very differe nt if a PLB alert is sent for an aircraft in distress. - I sent an email to the ME406 Product Manager in early 2006 telling him to p rovide a pin for serial GPS data that we could optionally provide else the AmeriKings and Acks would chew his tail. He never answered. Well, we will s ee how the ME406 competes in the future. - Bill DeRouchey N939SB - --- On Thu, 1/29/09, Jim Berry wrote: From: Jim Berry <jimberry(at)qwest.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: 406 MHZ ELT Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 4:00 PM Steve, I recently discovered an easy way to do the signal radiation test. Several weeks ago I installed my Artex ME406 elt. About 9 PM that night I answered a knock on the door and was greeted by a very pleasant man from the Civil Air Patrol, holding his direction finder. I had inadvertently triggered my elt during installation and he had picked up the signal 10 miles away, ground t o ground. This method is probably not FAA approved, but it is effective. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227590#227590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Date: Jan 30, 2009
Patrick, The old method won't work on the 406 MHz ELT's. That was the point I was trying to make. For one thing, 406 MHz is outside the frequency range of VHF airband receivers. Secondly, the old ELTs are amplitude modulated, the new ELTs are frequency modulated. Lastly, the old ELTs are a continuous wave analog tone, while the new ELT's are a short burst of digital data, very close to the way cellphone and wifi transmitters work. The short pulse allows a high power (five watt) signal from a very small battery. You need a special receiver to receive the signal and a digital processor to decode the data. That's what you get for 3 AMU's. (AMU is the American Monetary Unit or $1,000 US dollars. Also equivalent to one AJU, the American Jewelry Unit) :-) Steve Roberts (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:44 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT Steve, You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. using a VHF radio. Patrick Thyssen One day I to will fly. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lee Otto" <lotto(at)ciembroidery.com>
Subject: Dules Fuel Pump
Date: Jan 30, 2009
Anyone have a line on a good used 12 V Dukes Fuel Pump for my IO-540? I've been watching eBay for a while but they only show a new one and one damaged. Best, Lee Otto, RV-10 (installing fuel lines in fuselage) ci Embroidery lotto(at)ciembroidery.com (559) 651-8022 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: heads up
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Scott Schmitt has the same thing happen to him. We need a kickstand. :) ________________________________ From: Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. Bill DeRouchey N939SB --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: heads up To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: heads up
This has happened to many of us early on and was posted multiple times but it is good to repeat from time to time as it is sometimes difficult to read all the posts. My standard for loading is one person in back, one in front, then the second in back and finally the pilot. The issue arises when you have two in back and two people step up at the same time. That is like having two guys in the baggage compartment and two in the back seats. I also de-plane the same way. Also keep your tie-down in at all times. I have had it tip one other time but it just hit the tie down ring like previously mentioned. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:32:03 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. Bill DeRouchey N939SB --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: heads up Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: heads up
It's actually really old news, going back all the way to the beginning of customer built RV-10's flying. There are at least maybe 8 or 10 that I know of that cracked their rudder fairings by doing this. Just don't put two people on the steps at the same time, or don't load the plane and put two passengers in the rear seats and then go bounding on to the steps and you should be ok. But it does take some remembering to be careful. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Perry, Phil wrote: > Scott Schmitt has the same thing happen to him. > > We need a kickstand. :) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com] > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 10:32 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: heads up > > This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. > > Bill DeRouchey > N939SB > > > --- On *Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill //* wrote: > > From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > Subject: RV10-List: heads up > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM > > When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should > remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing > this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and > stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain > seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder > fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder > fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the > additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have > eliminated this incident.. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2009
Subject: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
Whoever may have used this, where does it go and do you have the instructio ns that you can share. I don't think they are up on Tim's site. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Steve, -I was not talking about the 406elt. You made a statement about the 121.5 elt that was not exactly correct. And those who still have 121.5 need to k now the correct- way to check their elts. -Pat Thyssen I will fly one day. --- On Fri, 1/30/09, Steven Roberts wrote: From: Steven Roberts <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT Date: Friday, January 30, 2009, 11:27 AM Patrick, - The old method won=A2t work on the 406 MHz ELT=A2s. -That was the point I was trying to make.- For one thing, 406 MHz is outside the frequency range of VHF airband receivers. -Secondl y, the old ELTs are amplitude modulated, the new ELTs are frequency modulated. -Lastly, the old ELTs are a continuous wave analog tone, while the new ELT=A2s are a short burst of digital data, very close to the way cellphone and wifi transmitters work. -The short pulse allows a high power (five watt) signa l from a very small battery.- You need a special receiver to receive the signal and a digital processor to decode the data. -That=A2s what you get for 3 AMU=A2s. - (AMU is the American Monetary Unit or $1,000 US dollars. -Also equivalent to one AJU, the American Jewelry Unit ) J Steve Roberts (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E =A1Ms. Obsession=A2 KMOR Morristown , TN - - From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:44 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT - Steve, You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. using a VHF radio. Patrick Thyssen One day I to will fly. - - ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: heads up
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Jan 31, 2009
If you leave the tail tiedown loop in does it stop the fairing from hitting? Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 16:31:39 Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up It's actually really old news, going back all the way to the beginning of customer built RV-10's flying. There are at least maybe 8 or 10 that I know of that cracked their rudder fairings by doing this. Just don't put two people on the steps at the same time, or don't load the plane and put two passengers in the rear seats and then go bounding on to the steps and you should be ok. But it does take some remembering to be careful. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Perry, Phil wrote: > Scott Schmitt has the same thing happen to him. > > We need a kickstand. :) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com] > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 10:32 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: heads up > > This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. > > Bill DeRouchey > N939SB > > > --- On *Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill //* wrote: > > From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > Subject: RV10-List: heads up > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM > > When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should > remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing > this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and > stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain > seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder > fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder > fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the > additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have > eliminated this incident.. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2009
Michael, Mine is mounted 8" behind the baggage bulkhead on the left. Rivets to the upper and middle J channel with 8 pull rivets. I don't have the instruction sheet anymore, but it is stone simple. It will not fit on the right, but it would be easy to make a mirror image if you wanted one for elt and one for strobe pack. Jim Berry 40482 Finishing the finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227783#227783 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Yes, the old method WILL work on all ELTs. Point is there is NO regulatory requirement to test the ELT on anything but 121.5. All units still broadcast 121.5, as it is a requirement of the TSO. In fact 91.207 does not specify a frequency, so you are free to test its broadcast as you see fit(within the 5 min after hour). KM A&P/IA Steven Roberts wrote: > > Patrick, > > The old method wont work on the 406 MHz ELTs. That was the point I > was trying to make. For one thing, 406 MHz is outside the frequency > range of VHF airband receivers. Secondly, the old ELTs are amplitude > modulated, the new ELTs are frequency modulated. Lastly, the old ELTs > are a continuous wave analog tone, while the new ELTs are a short > burst of digital data, very close to the way cellphone and wifi > transmitters work. The short pulse allows a high power (five watt) > signal from a very small battery. You need a special receiver to > receive the signal and a digital processor to decode the data. Thats > what you get for 3 AMUs. > > (AMU is the American Monetary Unit or $1,000 US dollars. Also > equivalent to one AJU, the American Jewelry Unit) J > > Steve Roberts > > (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) > > N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E Ms. Obsession KMOR Morristown, TN > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick > Thyssen > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 9:44 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT > > Steve, > > You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. using a VHF radio. > > Patrick Thyssen > > One day I to will fly. > > > > ** > * * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Dules Fuel Pump
You probably can get one overhauled for much less than a new one. Many Mooney models use them for the IO-360 and I think TIO-540 engines. You could try www.lasar.com as one Mooney service center. Lee Otto wrote: > Anyone have a line on a good used 12 V Dukes Fuel Pump for my IO-540? > I've been watching eBay for a while but they only show a new one and > one damaged. > > > Best, > > > > Lee Otto, RV-10 (installing fuel lines in fuselage) > > ci Embroidery > > lotto(at)ciembroidery.com > > (559) 651-8022 > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: heads up
Well, some transport aircraft have retractable tail skids, more to prevent a hit from over-rotation. Wouldn't be surprised if a DC8-62 needed something, given how long it is. Perry, Phil wrote: > Scott Schmitt has the same thing happen to him. > > We need a kickstand. :) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com] > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 10:32 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: heads up > > This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. > > Bill DeRouchey > N939SB > > > --- On *Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill //* wrote: > > From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > Subject: RV10-List: heads up > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM > > When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should > remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the > wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and > stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain > seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom > rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom > rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not > added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably > would have eliminated this incident.. > > * > > > * > > * > > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com > 3D============================================ > href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > 3D============================================ > > * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2009
I have the instructions but no way to post them electronically. I can either type them out here (there's 5 steps) or if you post or PM me a fax number I can send them that way. It gets installed between the F-1047C-L and F-1047D-L J-stiffeners, and between the F-1006 and f-1007 Frames, but closer to the F-1006. You slide it fore and aft to get a good fit. The outside face of the bracket's top flange goes against the bottom side of the 1047C stiffener, while the inside face of the bracket's bottom flange goes against the bottom side of the 1047D stiffener. The instructions have a drawing that makes this arrangement perfectly clear. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227784#227784 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
Date: Jan 30, 2009
I don't have the instructions on me, but I placed mine on the left side of the fuselage, about a foot behind the baggage compartment bulk head. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket Whoever may have used this, where does it go and do you have the instructions that you can share. I don't think they are up on Tim's site. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: heads up
Date: Jan 30, 2009
we used to fly a 747 combi DHA-AMS-IAH. Always at the AMS refueling, the announcement was made to remain seated until the tail stand was installed _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 12:26 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: heads up Scott Schmitt has the same thing happen to him. We need a kickstand. :) _____ From: Bill DeRouchey [mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. Bill DeRouchey N939SB --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: heads up Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution 3D=========================3 D=================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mistake on the aft deck
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I've been trying to send this fix out for a week and it's been unsuccessful. Apparently there is a problem with the e-mail, so I just posted it on VAF. Here's the link. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=39140 Phil ________________________________ From: Perry, Phil Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 8:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Mistake on the aft deck Hi Everyone, I'm going to be sending this to Vans too.. Tonight I was riveting the aft deck to the longerons of the tailcone. In the process, I screwed up a rivet and tried drilling it out. At that point, Murphy slapped me on the back for a second time and I managed to drill adjacent to the original hole. The good news is that I just barely touched the surface of the longeron, so it's just fine. The damage has been limited to the aft deck only. In the photo's below, you can see the longeron on the bottom and you can see that I've polished out the error to try and reduce the possibility of cracking later. I've got a couple of options. 1) I can drill for a 5/32 rivet, but that won't completely remove the mistake. 2) I thought about drilling and replacing with an AN3 bolt - That might remove it. 3) I thought about drilling the hole to be perfectly round (in the aft deck only) and then placing rivets on either side of the hole. In this case, the screw up would be similar to a lightening hole. 4) Just drop a rivet in and keep going. 5) Start over again with an entirely new aft deck. (Obviously last resort if I can't find a reasonable repair) In the process of the mistake, I've been trying to figure out what the real purpose of the aft deck is.... (???) I'm guessing it is designed to keep the longerons from pull apart or pressing together in the aft end of the aircraft. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks, Phil http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/?action= view¤t=DSC_3522-1.jpg http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/?action= view¤t=DSC_3528.jpg http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/?action= view¤t=DSC_3523.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Van's tach
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 30, 2009
I have dual lightspeed ignition, and now understand that it will not communicate with the Van's tach. So I ordered the tranducer. But upon receipt I then realized that with the backup SD20 Alternator mounted on the rear of the engine, there's no room to get the transducer to fit. Has ANYONE found a solution to this? Is there another way to provide the Van's tach with the required input. Thanks guys, Don McDonald -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227818#227818 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: heads up
Date: Jan 30, 2009
After having read about this before, I will probably mount a small piece of spring steel in the shape of a "U" at the tie down point using the tie down ring to hold it in place. Haven't decided where to get the spring steel yet, but that's my thought. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Schmidt To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:07 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up This has happened to many of us early on and was posted multiple times but it is good to repeat from time to time as it is sometimes difficult to read all the posts. My standard for loading is one person in back, one in front, then the second in back and finally the pilot. The issue arises when you have two in back and two people step up at the same time. That is like having two guys in the baggage compartment and two in the back seats. I also de-plane the same way. Also keep your tie-down in at all times. I have had it tip one other time but it just hit the tie down ring like previously mentioned. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:32:03 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. Bill DeRouchey N939SB --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: heads up To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have eliminated this incident.. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
From: "westexflyboy" <airplanedriver(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 30, 2009
Jim Berry wrote: > It will not fit on the right, but it would be easy to make a mirror image if you wanted one for elt and one for strobe pack Vans sells this same part in mirror image for the right. Search the onlike catalog for F-10112-R -------- Chase Snodgrass, CFI Presidio, Texas www.flybigbend.com 40820/40821 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227830#227830 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Ok,- heres a Hint.. VHF, AM radio. -- Read AC43.13.chapter 12- Ask your Faa inspector. I did not read or ask one day on a part135 inspecti on. Patrick Thyssen --- On Fri, 1/30/09, Kelly McMullen wrote: From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT Date: Friday, January 30, 2009, 6:48 PM Yes, the old method WILL work on all ELTs. Point is there is NO regulatory requirement to test the ELT on anything but 121.5. All units still broadcas t 121.5, as it is a requirement of the TSO. In fact 91.207 does not specify a frequency, so you are free to test its broadcast as you see fit(within the 5 min after hour). KM A&P/IA Steven Roberts wrote: > > Patrick, > > The old method won=A2t work on the 406 MHz ELT=A2s. That was the point I was trying to make. For one thing, 406 MHz is outside the frequency range o f VHF airband receivers. Secondly, the old ELTs are amplitude modulated, the new ELTs are frequency modulated. Lastly, the old ELTs are a continuous wave analog tone, while the new ELT=A2s are a short burst of digital data, very close to the way cellphone and wifi transmitters work. The short pulse allows a high power ( five watt) signal from a very small battery. You need a special receiver to rece ive the signal and a digital processor to decode the data. That=A2s what you ge t for 3 AMU=A2s. > > (AMU is the American Monetary Unit or $1,000 US dollars. Also equivalent to one AJU, the American Jewelry Unit) J > > Steve Roberts > > (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) > > N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E =A1Ms. Obsession=A2 KMOR Morristown, TN > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Thysse n > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 9:44 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT > > Steve, > > You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. usin g a VHF radio. > > Patrick Thyssen > > One day I to will fly. > > > ** > * * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: weight & balance program
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Jan 31, 2009
Is there a weight & balance program for the 10 that anyone has written? I know there is an older one here http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=135332088?KEYS=weight_&_balance_program?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=0501037899?SHOWBUTTONS=YES but it doesn't allow any parameters to change without a password. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Lake City, MI based at CAD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227851#227851 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Van's tach
You need the 12" extension. I believe you can get just the extension and add it to the transducer. Part number is IE VTACH EXT12 PJ Seipel RV-10 #40032 partner14 wrote: > > I have dual lightspeed ignition, and now understand that it will not communicate with the Van's tach. So I ordered the tranducer. But upon receipt I then realized that with the backup SD20 Alternator mounted on the rear of the engine, there's no room to get the transducer to fit. > Has ANYONE found a solution to this? Is there another way to provide the Van's tach with the required input. > Thanks guys, Don McDonald > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227818#227818 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
Subject: Re: heads up
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
You can see that setup on many a Cessna, combo tail skid and tiedown ring. Heck, even my Mooney has a tail skid. Helps when pilot gets confused and tries to land it like a taildragger. ;-) On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 9:45 PM, Dave Leikam wrote: > After having read about this before, I will probably mount a small piece of > spring steel in the shape of a "U" at the tie down point using the tie down > ring to hold it in place. Haven't decided where to get the spring steel > yet, but that's my thought. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA (Reserved) > Muskego, WI > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Schmidt > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:07 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up > This has happened to many of us early on and was posted multiple times but > it is good to repeat from time to time as it is sometimes difficult to read > all the posts. > My standard for loading is one person in back, one in front, then the second > in back and finally the pilot. > The issue arises when you have two in back and two people step up at the > same time. That is like having two guys in the baggage compartment and two > in the back seats. > I also de-plane the same way. Also keep your tie-down in at all times. I > have had it tip one other time but it just hit the tie down ring like > previously mentioned. > > > Scott Schmidt > scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com > > > ________________________________ > From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:32:03 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: heads up > > This is why we always have the tail tie-down ring installed. > > Bill DeRouchey > N939SB > > --- On Thu, 1/29/09, David McNeill wrote: > > From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > Subject: RV10-List: heads up > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, January 29, 2009, 12:39 PM > > When carrying four adults, be aware that one front seater should remain > seated while back seaters deplane. While I stood on the wing this morning, > the right seat passenger decided to deplane and stepped on the rear dismount > while the rear passengers remain seated. The aircraft tilted to the rear and > struck the bottom rudder fairing. Fortunately the damage seems limited to > the bottom rudder fairing which will be replaced. Unfortunately I have not > added the additional firewall avionics battery which probably would have > eliminated this incident.. > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
Subject: Re: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Precisely. Been doing it that way for years. That is what I meant by old method. In fact that method was first demonstrated to me by an avionics shop over 20 years ago. Keep in mind that the FAA works in strange ways, and hasn't updated 43.13-1B in 8 years. I won't hold my breath as to how long before they update an AC for 406 ELTs. Like the AIM, ACs are good guidance, but they aren't the reg, (except for GPSs). 2009/1/31 Patrick Thyssen : > Ok, heres a Hint.. > VHF, AM radio. Read AC43.13.chapter 12 > Ask your Faa inspector. I did not read or ask one day on a part135 > inspection. > Patrick Thyssen > > --- On Fri, 1/30/09, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, January 30, 2009, 6:48 PM > > > Yes, the old method WILL work on all ELTs. Point is there is NO regulatory > requirement to test the ELT on anything but 121.5. All units still broadcast > 121.5, as it is a requirement of the TSO. In fact 91.207 does not > specify a > frequency, so you are free to test its broadcast as you see fit(within the 5 > min > after hour). > KM > A&P/IA > Steven Roberts wrote: >> >> Patrick, >> >> The old method won't work on the 406 MHz ELT's. That was the point I > was trying to make. For one thing, 406 MHz is outside the frequency range of > VHF > airband receivers. Secondly, the old ELTs are amplitude modulated, the new > ELTs > are frequency modulated. Lastly, the old ELTs are a continuous wave analog > tone, > while the new ELT's are a short burst of digital data, very close to the way > cellphone and wifi transmitters work. The short pulse allows a high power > (five > watt) signal from a very small battery. You need a special receiver to > receive > the signal and a digital processor to decode the data. That's what you get > for > 3 AMU's. >> >> (AMU is the American Monetary Unit or $1,000 US dollars. Also equivalent > to one > AJU, the American Jewelry Unit) J >> >> Steve Roberts >> >> (still lurking while waiting for a suitable build location) >> >> N2700W 1966 Mooney M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Thyssen >> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 9:44 AM >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RE: 406 MHZ ELT >> >> Steve, >> >> You might want to look up in ac43.13 chapter 12 about checking ELTs. using > a VHF radio. >> >> Patrick Thyssen >> >> One day I to will fly. >> >> >> ** >> * * >> >> * >> >> >> > -= --> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Whelen/ELT bracket
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Jan 31, 2009
I just faxed a copy to Jesse so he can post. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227873#227873 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: test - please ignore
-- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop plate is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only engage about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short 1/4" length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out in step F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only a single thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling there's risk of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving the stop plate not properly attached. I don't like the picture of the stop plate rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll control. For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do you find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron stop system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided by the servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to better secure the stop plate? Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Date: Jan 31, 2009
Tim Thanks for mentioning this. I just checked mine and I got two turns on those screws. Another 1/8" or 1/4" would be better. As I understand it, the stop plate is there to prevent any part of the linkage from going "over center". This would cause the servo to lockup when it reverses, Not a Good Idea. Check with Tru Track they might have longer screws. John H ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" <timrvator(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate > > Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at > <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. > > In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop plate is > held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only engage about one > thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short 1/4" length of the > screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out in step F). I'm not very > comfortable with this arrangement. Only a single thread engagement (1 > turn of the screw) leaves me feeling there's risk of the screw stripping > and/or backing out and leaving the stop plate not properly attached. I > don't like the picture of the stop plate rattling around where it can jam > the aircraft roll control. > > For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do you find > that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron stop system > keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided by the servo's > stop plate? Have others taken steps to better secure the stop plate? > > Thanks, > > Tim > > -- > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs > RV-10 #40059 under construction > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Tim, I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not yet flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look at Tim Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html>, but Deems does <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html> Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim Olson does <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html>, but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems does not have the pitch control stops installed <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html> Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak on Monday is called for. Larry Rosen #356 Tim Lewis wrote: > > Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at > <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. > > In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop plate > is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only engage > about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short 1/4" > length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out in step > F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only a single > thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling there's risk > of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving the stop plate > not properly attached. I don't like the picture of the stop plate > rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll control. > > For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do you > find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron stop > system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided by the > servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to better secure the > stop plate? > > Thanks, > > Tim > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mistake on the aft deck
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2009
From: "Doug Gee" <Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com>
Subject: Deburring
I have just started building the VS and I have a question about deburring technique. I have used the scotchbrite wheel t do most of the outside edges and this works well. I have used the deburring tool with the swivelling blade to do the lightening holes but how do I do the notches around the ribs? I used a needle file but very tedious - is there a better way or d these notches not need to be done? Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Date: Feb 01, 2009
Keep in mind that the photos on that first link are from 2004...2 years before I flew. Somewhere in early Feb 2006 you should see an update where I added the stops, as the new kit of parts came out. Either right before or right after first flight, I had to redo the aileron servo linkages with new parts because the added the stops. I think they had incidents of jammed aileron servos due to linkage travelling to far, so they made length changes and hard stops. I would absolutely add the stops. Although, I don't remember the screw length being an issue at that time. I'd call them and ask how long you can use and then report back here for your RV10 buds. Tim On Jan 31, 2009, at 9:18 PM, Larry Rosen wrote: > > Tim, > I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not > yet flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look > at Tim Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html > >, > but Deems does <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html > > > > Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim > Olson does <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html > >, but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems > does not have the pitch control stops installed <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html > > > > Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak > on Monday is called for. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > > Tim Lewis wrote: >> >> Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf >> >. >> >> In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop >> plate is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only >> engage about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short >> 1/4" length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out >> in step F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only >> a single thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling >> there's risk of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving >> the stop plate not properly attached. I don't like the picture of >> the stop plate rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll >> control. >> >> For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do >> you find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron >> stop system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops >> provided by the servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to >> better secure the stop plate? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tim >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Deburring
Doug, I find the cloth type sanding paper the best as it doesn't tear and c an easily be folded to get into the notches.=C2- I normally use around 24 0 grit and tear off a 1" wide x 3" piece and slide it through the notches a couple of time to debur.=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Doug Gee <Doug.Gee@fir estone-textiles.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, 1 Februa ry, 2009 3:09:16 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Deburring=0A=0A--> RV10-List mess age posted by: "Doug Gee" <Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com>=0A=0AI have jus t started building the VS and I have a question about deburring technique. =C2- I have used the scotchbrite wheel t do most of the outside edges and this works well.=C2- I have used the deburring tool with the swivelling blade to do the lightening holes but how do I do the notches around the rib s?=C2- I used a needle file but very tedious - is there a better way or d ==C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - List Contribution Web Site - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2 =====================0A=0A=0A Make Yahoo!7 your homepage and win a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find out m ore ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nitrogen in Tires
From: "vbhisey" <vishwasbhisey(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 01, 2009
If water vapor is the problem, wouldn't it be easier to just get the water vapor out during compression of the air? It's a fairly straightforward process. Scuba divers use it all the time while filling up their tanks with air. ... my 2c Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227970#227970 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
It looks like Tim Olson used the hardware from <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV-710RightWing.pdf>. This setup doesn't use the "RV-10 Attach Plate" called out in step "c" of <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. Alex De Dominicis told me the RV-10 Attach Plate is essentially a torque enhancer for more autopilot authority in rough air. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction Larry Rosen wrote: > > Tim, > I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not > yet flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look at > Tim Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop > <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html>, > but Deems does > <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html> > > > Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim > Olson does > <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html>, > but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems does > not have the pitch control stops installed > <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html> > > Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak on > Monday is called for. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > > Tim Lewis wrote: >> >> Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at >> <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. >> >> In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop >> plate is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only >> engage about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short >> 1/4" length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out >> in step F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only a >> single thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling >> there's risk of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving >> the stop plate not properly attached. I don't like the picture of >> the stop plate rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll >> control. >> >> For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do you >> find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron stop >> system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided by >> the servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to better secure >> the stop plate? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tim >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Here is a link to just before first flight time, when I changed the linkage and added the stops...they had just come out that week I think. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060208/index.html Tim Larry Rosen wrote: > > Tim, > I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not yet > flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look at Tim > Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop > <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html>, > but Deems does > <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html> > > > Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim Olson > does > <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html>, > but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems does > not have the pitch control stops installed > <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html> > > Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak on > Monday is called for. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > > Tim Lewis wrote: >> >> Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at >> <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. >> >> In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop plate >> is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only engage >> about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short 1/4" >> length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out in step >> F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only a single >> thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling there's risk >> of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving the stop plate >> not properly attached. I don't like the picture of the stop plate >> rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll control. >> >> For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do you >> find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron stop >> system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided by the >> servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to better secure the >> stop plate? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tim >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
From: "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 01, 2009
Best thing to do is stay away from the 451. I sent a new 450 back to them that would not work. It was 3 months old and I sent the BOS with it. They have failed to respond and still have my unit 1 year now. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227984#227984 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Date: Feb 01, 2009
I think it is very important to install the servo stop plates. The servo is capable of driving itself too far and get in a position that will lock the controls if the plates are not installed. I didn't think they were important when I watched the linkage and moved the controls to the stops, but when I moved the servo arm itself, I could get it into a locked position. Be careful! Kevin Belue RV6A RV10 flying Sent from my iPhone On Jan 31, 2009, at 9:18 PM, Larry Rosen wrote: > > Tim, > I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not > yet flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look > at Tim Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html > >, > but Deems does <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html > > > > Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim > Olson does <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html > >, but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems > does not have the pitch control stops installed <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html > > > > Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak > on Monday is called for. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > > Tim Lewis wrote: >> >> Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf >> >. >> >> In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop >> plate is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only >> engage about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short >> 1/4" length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out >> in step F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only >> a single thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling >> there's risk of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving >> the stop plate not properly attached. I don't like the picture of >> the stop plate rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll >> control. >> >> For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do >> you find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron >> stop system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops >> provided by the servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to >> better secure the stop plate? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tim >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
Subject: Re: Glad to be hangered!
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Patrick Pulis wrote: > I feel so sorry for all you snow bound folks. Skiis... :-) -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: 406 MHZ ELT
Date: Feb 01, 2009
I don't think we have any disagreement. You can still use the old testing methods to satisfy the annual testing requirement for ELTs. This is because the new ELTs still have a 121.5 MHz signal in addition to the 406 MHz signal. Testing the 406 MHz signal and data burst is not required by FAR at this time.at least so far. As Bill and others have indicated, you need to be careful when testing the ELT not to trigger the 406 MHz burst. You may be charged for SAR costs incurred, fined, or scare the crap out of your emergency contacts. To my knowledge there is no DIY method to fully test the 406 MHz signal. My wife and I have also been carrying our PLB whenever we travel.vacations, hiking, scuba, etc.. We let our registered contacts know where we will be. When we went to New Zealand we put our itinerary on our NOAA registration in the comments section. You never know. Steve Roberts N2700W 1966 M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN _____ Tim, Ok here's where I'm coming from. Steve made a blanket statement of using VHF and thats all you do With the old 121.5 elts and As I said, I was not talking about 406 elts, I was concerned about 121.5 elts which we mostly have in the general aviation. And do not want someone reading this and say all I have to do is use the VHF radio turn it to 121.5 and see if I get a signal.The Vhf radio only lets you test to see if it activates but is not good for the radiated signal. As per Far 91.207d4. You can test that as per AC43. And ac 43.13 is acceptable data. (Don't forget to read the notes).That is the only place I know you see testing for sufficient signal radiated from its antenna. Except for the manufacturer books which I know nothing of. So go ahead and shoot. Like I said ask your local FAA. otherwise don't ask and ask for forgiveness afterward, that's the pilots motto around my airport. Patrick Thyssen ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mistake on the Aft Deck: Fixed
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
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Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
Thanks for all the replies. Good info. I sent an email to Tru Trak asking about longer screws. I'll let you know what I hear. The screw max length will be a consideration, due to the moving pieces inside the servo that are right behind the screw holes. You can actually see movement of an interior servo part through the screw hole. Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction Tim Olson wrote: > > Keep in mind that the photos on that first link are from 2004...2 > years before I flew. Somewhere in early Feb 2006 you should see an > update where I added the stops, as the new kit of parts came out. > Either right before or right after first flight, I had to redo the > aileron servo linkages with new parts because the added the stops. I > think they had incidents of jammed aileron servos due to linkage > travelling to far, so they made length changes and hard stops. I > would absolutely add the stops. Although, I don't remember the screw > length being an issue at that time. I'd call them and ask how long > you can use and then report back here for your RV10 buds. > Tim > > > On Jan 31, 2009, at 9:18 PM, Larry Rosen wrote: > >> >> Tim, >> I cannot answer your question, but I looked at my installation (not >> yet flying) and I do not have the roll stop installed. If you look >> at Tim Olson's installation and he also does not have the roll stop >> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041231/RV200412310044.html>, >> but Deems does >> <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2020%20Bottom%20Wing%20Skin/slides/DSC02106.html> >> >> >> Also, I do not have the stop installed on the pitch servo, but Tim >> Olson does >> <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/RV200608160109.html>, >> but the Tru Trak RV-10 installation photos do not show it. Deems >> does not have the pitch control stops installed >> <http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Wiring/slides/DSC03209.html> >> >> Now I am even more confused than usual. I guess a call to Tru Trak >> on Monday is called for. >> >> Larry Rosen >> #356 >> >> Tim Lewis wrote: >>> >>> Tru Trak's RV-10 roll servo installation diagram is at >>> <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. >>> >>> In the first photo, item "F" is the servo stop plate. That stop >>> plate is held on by two little 6-32 screws, 1/4" long, which only >>> engage about one thread (!) into the servo body (due to the short >>> 1/4" length of the screws and the AN960-10 washer spacer called out >>> in step F). I'm not very comfortable with this arrangement. Only a >>> single thread engagement (1 turn of the screw) leaves me feeling >>> there's risk of the screw stripping and/or backing out and leaving >>> the stop plate not properly attached. I don't like the picture of >>> the stop plate rattling around where it can jam the aircraft roll >>> control. >>> >>> For those who have installed this system and gotten it flying, do >>> you find that the stop plate is needed, or does the RV-10's aileron >>> stop system keep the servo arm from running up to the stops provided >>> by the servo's stop plate? Have others taken steps to better >>> secure the stop plate? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Tim >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
And again, just so people don't get confused, no, when I built it BEFORE flying by a couple years, there hadn't been such a torque enhancing plate. But, the week or so before I flew, they sent me the parts and it all got changed out. So yes, today, and ever since first flight, I've had the torque enhancing plate. That's the problem with reading a book....if you don't read to the end, you don't know what totally happened. Shows the day I modified the aileron servo: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060208/index.html I've never had the opportunity to fly without it. Tim Tim Lewis wrote: > > It looks like Tim Olson used the hardware from > <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV-710RightWing.pdf>. This setup > doesn't use the "RV-10 Attach Plate" called out in step "c" of > <http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/RV10RollInstallation.pdf>. > Alex De Dominicis told me the RV-10 Attach Plate is essentially a torque > enhancer for more autopilot authority in rough air. > > Tim > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
One thing to consider if they won't let you go with longer screws is using loctite on them once you fix it in a position you are happy with. It would be better than having it come apart. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Tim Lewis wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies. Good info. > > I sent an email to Tru Trak asking about longer screws. I'll let you > know what I hear. The screw max length will be a consideration, due to > the moving pieces inside the servo that are right behind the screw > holes. You can actually see movement of an interior servo part through > the screw hole. > > Thanks, > > Tim > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 01, 2009
Here's a good one: http://nwacaptain.com/10weightandbalance.html Regards, Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228095#228095 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Deburring
Regarding the swiveling blade tool - I have used such a tool labeled "Vargus" for a couple of years to deburr an entire QB kit. It has a thin pencil shaped body with a swiveling but fixed in place blade. It was part of an RV tool kit I bought from "Ishmail Tools". Anyway, I figured that the tool must be getting dull so a couple of months ago I bought one of the deburring tools from Cleveland or Avery. The type with multiple blades stored in the fat handle. I quickly discovered the newer tool was inferior to the original. The blades chattered and caught on the work and quickly dulled. Apparently something less than hard tool steel or whatever is required for a good deburring too. I'm back to the Vargus and consider myself lucky it didn't happen the other way around. I have no idea where to buy a Vargus but if someone does, I'd still like to refresh it. FWIW Bill "I'm gonna put it up on the wheels" Watson. Jesse Saint wrote: > > Usually you can get those with the swiveling blade tool from the right > angle. That tool also can have different shaped blades for different > types of deburring. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2009
Subject: Re: Deburring
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Perhaps you mean Isham? Is this the tool you refer to? http://www.store-planetools.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=53 On Mon, Feb 2, 2009 at 7:15 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > Regarding the swiveling blade tool - I have used such a tool labeled > "Vargus" for a couple of years to deburr an entire QB kit. It has a thin > pencil shaped body with a swiveling but fixed in place blade. It was part > of an RV tool kit I bought from "Ishmail Tools". > > I have no idea where to buy a Vargus but if someone does, I'd still like to > refresh it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Deburring
Yes on both counts. I bought a tool kit from Isham Inc a couple of years ago and it turns out it was a very good kit for me. Of course I can't easily compare with others but it's worked out better than expected. Thanks for info. I never really made the connection with PlaneTools but I will adding it to my vendor list. Bill Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Perhaps you mean Isham? Is this the tool you refer to? > http://www.store-planetools.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=53 > > On Mon, Feb 2, 2009 at 7:15 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson > wrote: > >> >> >> Regarding the swiveling blade tool - I have used such a tool labeled >> "Vargus" for a couple of years to deburr an entire QB kit. It has a thin >> pencil shaped body with a swiveling but fixed in place blade. It was part >> of an RV tool kit I bought from "Ishmail Tools". >> >> > > >> I have no idea where to buy a Vargus but if someone does, I'd still like to >> refresh it. >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Deburring
Date: Feb 02, 2009
I have a set of the swiveling tools mentioned. I picked up a set of 4 different ones (from Cleveland or Avery I think) at the beginning of the project which has worked very well. I also use the mini scotchbrite wheels for some of those hard to get places and so far it has all worked quite well: http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel- -kit.aspx Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gee Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 8:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Deburring <Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com> I have just started building the VS and I have a question about deburring technique. I have used the scotchbrite wheel t do most of the outside edges and this works well. I have used the deburring tool with the swivelling blade to do the lightening holes but how do I do the notches around the ribs? I used a needle file but very tedious - is there a better way or d these notches not need to be done? Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Feb 02, 2009
That is a good program, thanks. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Lake City, MI based at CAD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228261#228261 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Attach the Tail Feathers?
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
This morning I woke up early and finished the tailcone (Section 10). Now I'm waiting for the QB fuse to arrive in April!!! Apparently the facility in the Philippines was relocated and that has greatly increased the lead times from 3 months to at least 5+ months. So I'm looking for something to do. I wasn't planning on completing section 11 until after the tailcone is attached. But given my scenario, I'm temped to go ahead and press on with Section 11 and just leave the Elevators and Rudder off the plane. (I'll need the depth in the garage later) Anyone have any thoughts on completing section 11? I'm guessing it'll be much easier to attach the tailcone to the QB fuse without the hassle of the tail feathers. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Attach the Tail Feathers?
Date: Feb 03, 2009
I would start the section and get everything done you can. There are some steps you would wait until final assembly for like installing the trim cables or fairings and this is obvious. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Perry, Phil To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Attach the Tail Feathers? This morning I woke up early and finished the tailcone (Section 10). Now I'm waiting for the QB fuse to arrive in April!!! Apparently the facility in the Philippines was relocated and that has greatly increased the lead times from 3 months to at least 5+ months. So I'm looking for something to do. I wasn't planning on completing section 11 until after the tailcone is attached. But given my scenario, I'm temped to go ahead and press on with Section 11 and just leave the Elevators and Rudder off the plane. (I'll need the depth in the garage later) Anyone have any thoughts on completing section 11? I'm guessing it'll be much easier to attach the tailcone to the QB fuse without the hassle of the tail feathers. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Attach the Tail Feathers?
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 03, 2009
Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com wrote: > > Anyone have any thoughts on completing section 11? I'm guessing it'll be much easier to attach the tailcone to the QB fuse without the hassle of the tail feathers. > Thanks, > Phil I would do Section 11 for sure and probably start on much of Section 12. You then take everything apart and hang them from the ceiling or on the walls until you start the final assembly. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228325#228325 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tru Trak (RV-10) roll servo stop plate
I spoke with Zack from Tru Trak today. The control stop is not necessary on the RV 10 pitch servo because of the way the torque enhancer works. You will not be able to lock up the servo. However, it is part of there recommended install for the roll servo. They do want the screws to be as short as practical. If they are too long they will ride against a gear inside the servo. But, one thread is too short. The screw is a 6-32. I will need to look through my parts bins to see if I have the control stop for the roll servo. Otherwise TT will send one out to me. Thanks everyone for bringing up this topic. I will now know of a mistake that I can easily correct. Better now than when it is to late. Larry Tim Olson wrote: > > One thing to consider if they won't let you go with longer screws > is using loctite on them once you fix it in a position you are > happy with. It would be better than having it come apart. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Tim Lewis wrote: >> >> Thanks for all the replies. Good info. >> >> I sent an email to Tru Trak asking about longer screws. I'll let you >> know what I hear. The screw max length will be a consideration, due >> to the moving pieces inside the servo that are right behind the screw >> holes. You can actually see movement of an interior servo part >> through the screw hole. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tim >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Attach the Tail Feathers?
Don't forget to put some tie wire/coat hangar/string thru the hole where the trim cables run. It will save you 45 minutes (at least) when trying to install the tail feathers. (don't ask me how I know :) ) Dr Fred. Perry, Phil wrote: > This morning I woke up early and finished the tailcone (Section 10). > > Now I'm waiting for the QB fuse to arrive in April!!! Apparently the > facility in the Philippines was relocated and that has greatly > increased the lead times from 3 months to at least 5+ months. > > So I'm looking for something to do. I wasn't planning on completing > section 11 until after the tailcone is attached. But given my > scenario, I'm temped to go ahead and press on with Section 11 and just > leave the Elevators and Rudder off the plane. (I'll need the depth in > the garage later) > > Anyone have any thoughts on completing section 11? I'm guessing it'll > be much easier to attach the tailcone to the QB fuse without the > hassle of the tail feathers. > > Thanks, > Phil > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Motivation
Kit 40515 passed another major milestone Friday. Got her back from the paint shop. Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. Took four weeks. She is back in the air and doing fine. Keep pounding those rivets. It's worth it. See you at Sun in Fun and Oshkosh. Dr Fred. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Fuel Cap Leak
Date: Feb 03, 2009
In testing my first fuel tank, it appears that I have a leak. The only leak I can find in the fuel cap. Air bubbles were coming up from under the tab. I moved the tab to different positions to ensure that the leak moved with the tab and to rule out the leak was coming between the flange and skin. The leak did move. So I decided to increase the tension by =BC=94 turn. That helped eliminating the leak around the seal, but it does appear that I still have a leak coming from the center post. It also appears to be the same with both fuel caps. I=92ll give Van=92s a call in the morning, but I was curious as if anyone else has run into anything similar and have some advice to share. Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Cap Leak
I had to use packing tape over the whole gas cap to get a good enough seal to see if there were any leaks. I don't think the gas caps are designed to be totally leak proof. Dr Fred. Bob Leffler wrote: > > In testing my first fuel tank, it appears that I have a leak. The only > leak I can find in the fuel cap. Air bubbles were coming up from under > the tab. I moved the tab to different positions to ensure that the > leak moved with the tab and to rule out the leak was coming between > the flange and skin. The leak did move. So I decided to increase the > tension by turn. That helped eliminating the leak around the seal, > but it does appear that I still have a leak coming from the center > post. It also appears to be the same with both fuel caps. > > Ill give Vans a call in the morning, but I was curious as if anyone > else has run into anything similar and have some advice to share. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Fuel Cap Leak
Date: Feb 03, 2009
Same for me. I got one to seal, never got the other one to seal. Have some leakage in flight when the line guy fills up the tank to high. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 2:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Cap Leak I had to use packing tape over the whole gas cap to get a good enough seal to see if there were any leaks. I don't think the gas caps are designed to be totally leak proof. Dr Fred. Bob Leffler wrote: > > In testing my first fuel tank, it appears that I have a leak. The only > leak I can find in the fuel cap. Air bubbles were coming up from under > the tab. I moved the tab to different positions to ensure that the > leak moved with the tab and to rule out the leak was coming between > the flange and skin. The leak did move. So I decided to increase the > tension by turn. That helped eliminating the leak around the seal, > but it does appear that I still have a leak coming from the center > post. It also appears to be the same with both fuel caps. > > Ill give Vans a call in the morning, but I was curious as if anyone > else has run into anything similar and have some advice to share. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Motivation
Date: Feb 03, 2009
Dr. Fred, That is one of, if not my favorite RV10 paint designs. The colors pop out and flow with the airplane. Looks fast and sleek. Awsome job. Fly up to Oregon this spring we'll have a Northwest RV10 builders party with you and your wife as honored guests. Paul Grimstad RV10 450 Portland, Or. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 12:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Motivation > Kit 40515 passed another major milestone Friday. Got her back from the > paint shop. Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. Took > four weeks. She is back in the air and doing fine. Keep pounding those > rivets. It's worth it. See you at Sun in Fun and Oshkosh. > > Dr Fred. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Motivation
Looks great! We're envious here.,,, Thanks Bill Fred Williams, M.D. wrote: > Kit 40515 passed another major milestone Friday. Got her back from > the paint shop. Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. > Took four weeks. She is back in the air and doing fine. Keep > pounding those rivets. It's worth it. See you at Sun in Fun and > Oshkosh. > > Dr Fred. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Motivation
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Beautiful. Hmm, small world, I have landed at Paris Tx and Gainesville a couple times. On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 1:11 PM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote: > Kit 40515 passed another major milestone Friday. Got her back from the > paint shop. Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. Took four > weeks. She is back in the air and doing fine. Keep pounding those rivets. > It's worth it. See you at Sun in Fun and Oshkosh. > > Dr Fred. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Wingtips
Date: Feb 03, 2009
I read Tim's saga of the crooked wing tip on his site. Have others experie nced problems here? I have attached them only to find the right tip is pre tty straight but the left curves upward and is out at least 1.5 inches at t he end. I am looking for any creative solutions before I begin cutting and try to make them true. Mike Lefever Chandler Arizona ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Motivation
Very nice Doc.=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A________________________________=0AFrom: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@s uddenlinkmail.com>=0ATo: RV 10 =0ASent: Wednesday, 4 February, 2009 6:41:47 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Motivation=0A=0AKit 4051 5 passed another major milestone Friday.=C2- Got her back from the paint shop.=C2- Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. Took four we eks.=C2- She is back in the air and doing fine.=C2- Keep pounding those rivets.=C2- It's worth it.=C2- See you at Sun in Fun and Oshkosh.=0A =0ADr Fred.=0A=0A=0A Make Yahoo!7 your homepage and win a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find out more ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtips
Date: Feb 03, 2009
I was able to adjust mine slightly with a heat gun. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips I read Tim's saga of the crooked wing tip on his site. Have others experienced problems here? I have attached them only to find the right tip is pretty straight but the left curves upward and is out at least 1.5 inches at the end. I am looking for any creative solutions before I begin cutting and try to make them true. Mike Lefever Chandler Arizona ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Motivation
Lookin' great, Dr. Fred.- Thanks for the boost in motivation.- Although most of the boost needs to be in the form of flying lessons!!!--- Ho pefully, I'll join those of you flying,, soon.- Working on paperwork and finishing touches. Don McDonald --- On Tue, 2/3/09, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote: From: Fred Williams, M.D. <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Subject: RV10-List: Motivation Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 12:11 PM Kit 40515 passed another major milestone Friday. Got her back from the pai nt shop. Flying Colors of Texas in Gainesville did the job. Took four weeks. She is back in the air and doing fine. Keep pounding those rivets. It's worth it. See you at Sun in Fun and Oshkosh. Dr Fred. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2009
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
=C2-Hello Patrick. My wife and I operate out of Eugene Airport. We got new airport badges yest erday, and they put a "ghost" image of our picture up above it, claiming th at it will make it more difficult to make up a fake id, as if that will hel p=C2-some perceived "enemy"=C2-enter the gate-since it is locked!! We =C2- were also told, be aware that tsa will "show a higher presence" here . I told her that they are not coming in our hangar, and that they have no rights with general aviation. She said: Just to let you know , they will be around more! What a veiled threat! If someone doesn't stop them and their egregious power grabbing we will quit flying. It isn't enough to try to foi st this set of ridiculous 12,500 lb set of outrageous rules on GA; now they are already targeting small aircraft. They better not approach me! Oh well .. Hope someone does something. I called AOPA and reported this. I can't be lieve this. I told the airport staff in the office that they are brownshirt s who really want general aviation planes grounded if they had their way. Brian and Ruth ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 6:32:13 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements At the end of this month the new TSA security requirements for pilots opera ting out of Part 139 airports take effect. Unfortunately for me, my primary airport is one of those affected by the ne w rules (KSNA).=C2- I get to make the first of two trips this week to the airport=99s administrative office to apply for a TSA background chec k and access badge for continued ramp access. I know most of you operate out of smaller fields.=C2- But I figured I =99d see if any other list members have had the pleasure of this experie nce.=C2- Anyone else been through it yet? I=99m hoping it=99s pretty benign as far as red tape goes. Patrick #40715 =============== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
bruce breckenridge wrote: > It would be great if EVERYONE failed to comply. Might send a message, > but at the expense of many who might pay a high price for standing firm. I'm convinced you are correct, and that is probably the only way to convince the gov't to get rid of the menace that the TSA presents to the US and our way of life. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowl hinge sealant?
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Before I rivet on my firewall side cowl hinges... I recall adding sealant to the lower firewall to fuse tabs. Section 41-8 says rivet it all together, but doesn't mention any sealant. Seems like a good idea, but why bother if it's not a problem? What have others done? I noticed that Vans firewall high-temp sealant is marked "We are temporarily unable to ship this product. Available only for Will Call purchase until further notice". hmmm. Proseal would provide a good CO block, but not do much for a real thermal event with visual indication. Thanks, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228457#228457 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: New TSA Security Requirements
Date: Feb 04, 2009
I learned to fly and was part of a flying club out of BED (Hanscom Airfield near Boston), and one of my destinations was Westchester County (White Plains, NY) HPN. Very high number of private jets, etc, plus a military presence in the former, and an even greater number of jets, etc into the latter. So, needless to say, the security apparatus ratcheted up significantly at both very soon after 911. Double gates and all at Hanscom, where the 182 was hangered. You had to drive your car into a holding area, wait for the gate behind you to close and then the one in front to open. Cameras were installed that could be focused down each hanger row. The local FBO/charter company had to put in baggage screening equipment and procedures. American Eagle used to fly commercial out of there and had to put in a full system along with security folks, who mainly just sat around. Those of us with planes on the field had to go for training in order to get our badges. The training was worthless, in my opinion. Just designed to try to get you to turn in anyone that you thought looked suspicious. So, what does one do with the training? All become paranoid about everyone on the airfield? Be the civilian watch dogs for the state? If someone wanted to "take over" me and my 182 to do bad things, wouldn't it be very simple to come to my house, "secure" me and my badge and car in order to get through that joke of a gate to my hanger, or anyone else's hanger? This, to us at the field, was a system so easily defeated that it was laughable, but in the meantime it meant the loss of an intangible about flying that was dear to all those who sacrificed a great deal to participate. I don't know what the answer is, but I personally jumped at the chance to obtain a hanger at a small, open, old time airport when I arrived in Oregon. My fear is that soon, for any field with a 3k foot runway, we'll see the requirement for a razor fence and double security gates. There are decent sized biz jets with a good deal of speed, range, load capacity and mass that can operate into and out of a 3k strip, fully loaded. Is this what they are concerned about? What's the difference between a towered airport with a 5k strip and one without a tower with a 3k strip? They both offer opportunity, and I would think the latter would offer more. TSA has visited our little piece of flying heaven, and they were told by its owner to basically to get the H off the field. At my airfield we watch out for each other, for each other's safety and possessions. We know who's who on the field and introduce ourselves to those we may not recognize, only because it is a very friendly and helpful community, not because we have been asked to be paranoid watchdogs. I remember being absolutely shocked when I first arrived because folks would leave their hanger wide open when they left for a flight. I must admit I haven't gotten that comfortable yet, but what a wonderful feeling to be able to trust and depend upon your neighbors and fellow flying enthusiasts. Where or when, in every part of our extremely complex society, do we cross the line that means a significant and enduring loss of freedom, our way of life that makes us so unique a society? And, yes, we can debate what "freedom" means, pragmatically. Certainly no one wants total anarchy. Flying, the way we define the activity, is so much a symbol of freedom. We need more folks watching the watch dogs. We need folks, like Bruce's wife, to get involved, or, by fiat, these freedoms we have will be curtailed. Kurt Vonnegut where are you? John _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 7:51 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements My wife is the ASN (Airport Support Network) representative for our home base, 7s9. She has really taken this TSA thing to heart and attended in Burbank one of the only 5 or 6 hearings TSA put on to hear what GA pilots had to say. She and 74 others had 3 minutes each to say their concerns. Most conveyed facts, which is what they wanted to hear. By the 27th of this month, they plan to hand down the next doling of regulations. The "book" is 261 pages of rules and guidelines. Only 2 airports in Oregon will feel the change you mention, and both are part of the Portland system: Troutdale (KTTD) and Hillsboro (KHIO). Setting up increased securities in the airline industry was one thing. Really irritating at times, but probably inevitable and necessary. This long handed reach into the smaller towered airports is, I believe, a total waste of energy. The small commercial operation affected will have to provide and pay for the TSA approved employees to check out each aircraft and person boarding. I can see the closing of businesses due to the increased regulations and costs placed on them. It looks like they've been given too much freedom to act in the name of "security". We sure hope it stops soon, yet all indications are that the "red tape" is going to get really deep.... Bruce 40018 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com>
Subject: Cowl hinge sealant?
Date: Feb 04, 2009
On the Van's high-temp sealant: I talked with them several months ago and the issue has to do with hazardous materials. In order to handle and ship a hazardous material the people at Van's have to be certified to handle the material. Van's doesn't want to pay for all of the government certification hassle. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:55 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl hinge sealant? Before I rivet on my firewall side cowl hinges... I recall adding sealant to the lower firewall to fuse tabs. Section 41-8 says rivet it all together, but doesn't mention any sealant. Seems like a good idea, but why bother if it's not a problem? What have others done? I noticed that Vans firewall high-temp sealant is marked "We are temporarily unable to ship this product. Available only for Will Call purchase until further notice". hmmm. Proseal would provide a good CO block, but not do much for a real thermal event with visual indication. Thanks, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228457#228457 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 08:24:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2009
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
Hello John! =C2-Thank you for that! I love it! Get the H off our field! I would have loved to see that! Ha Ha HA... =C2-We will look for a field like that also, or igve up flying before we allow any intrusion into our freedom=C2- when it comes to flying. We wrot e Phil Boyer before who agreed with me about the tsa. Brian Preston ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 9:22:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements I learned to fly and was part of a flying club out of BED (Hanscom Airfield near Boston), and one of my destinations was=C2- Westchester County ( Wh ite Plains, NY ) HPN .=C2- Very high number of private jets, etc, plus a military presence in the former, and an even greater number of jets, etc in to the latter.=C2- So, needless to say, the security apparatus ratcheted up significantly at both very soon after 911.=C2-=C2-Double gates and a ll at Hanscom, where the 182 was hangered.=C2- You had to drive your car into a holding area, wait for the gate behind you to close and then the one in front to open.=C2-=C2- Cameras were installed that could be focused down each hanger row.=C2- The local FBO/charter company had to put in ba ggage screening equipment and procedures.=C2- American Eagle used to fly commercial out of there and had to put in a full system along with security folks, who mainly just sat around.=C2- Those of us with planes on the fi eld had to go for training in order to get our badges.=C2- The training w as worthless, in my opinion.=C2- Just designed to try to get you to turn in anyone that you thought looked suspicious.=C2- So,=C2- what does one do with the training?=C2- All become paranoid about everyone on the airf ield?=C2-=C2- Be the civilian watch dogs for the state?=C2-=C2-If s omeone wanted to=C2-"take over" me and my 182 to do bad things, wouldn't it be very simple to come to my house, "secure" me and my=C2-badge and ca r in order to get through that joke of a gate to my hanger, or anyone else' s hanger?=C2- This, to us at the field, was a system so easily defeated t hat it was laughable, but in the=C2-meantime it meant the loss of=C2-an intangible about flying that was dear to all those who sacrificed a great deal to participate.=C2- =C2- I don't know what the answer is, but I personally jumped at the chance to o btain a hanger at a small, open, old time airport when I arrived in Oregon. =C2- My fear is that soon, for any field with a 3k foot runway, we'll see the requirement for a razor fence and double security gates.=C2- There a re decent sized biz jets with a good deal of speed, range, load capacity an d mass that can operate into and out of a 3k strip, fully loaded.=C2- Is this what they are concerned about?=C2- What's the difference between a t owered airport with a 5k strip and one without a tower with a 3k strip?=C2 - They both offer opportunity, and I would think the latter would offer m ore.=C2- TSA has visited our little piece of flying heaven, and they were told by its owner to=C2-basically to get the H off the field.=C2- At my airfield we watch out for each other, for each other's safety and pos sessions.=C2- We know who's who on the field and introduce ourselves to t hose we may not recognize, only because it is a very friendly and helpful c ommunity, not because we have been asked to be paranoid watchdogs.=C2- I remember being absolutely shocked when I first arrived because folks would leave their hanger wide open when they left for a flight.=C2- I must admi t I haven't gotten that comfortable yet, but what a wonderful feeling to be able to trust and depend upon your neighbors and fellow flying enthusiasts .=C2-=C2-=C2- Where or when, in every part of our extremely complex society, do we cross the line that means a significant and enduring=C2-loss of freedom, our wa y of life that makes us so unique a society?=C2- And, yes, we can debate what "freedom" means, pragmatically.=C2- Certainly no one wants total ana rchy.=C2- Flying, the way we define the activity, is so much a symbol of freedom.=C2- We need more folks watching the watch dogs.=C2- We need fo lks, like Bruce's wife,=C2-to get involved, or, by fiat, these freedoms w e have will be curtailed.=C2- Kurt Vonnegut where are you?=C2- John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce breckenridge Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 7:51 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements My wife is the ASN (Airport Support Network) representative for our home ba se, 7s9.=C2- She has really taken this TSA thing to heart and attended in Burbank=C2-one of the only 5 or 6 hearings TSA put on to hear what GA pi lots had to say.=C2- She and 74 others had 3 minutes each to say their co ncerns.=C2- Most conveyed facts, which is what they wanted to hear.=C2- By the 27th of this month, they plan to hand down the next doling of regul ations.=C2- The "book" is 261 pages of rules and guidelines. Only 2 airports in Oregon will feel the change you mention, and both are pa rt of the Portland system: Troutdale (KTTD) and Hillsboro (KHIO). Setting up increased securities in the airline industry was one thing.=C2 - Really irritating at times, but probably inevitable and necessary.=C2 - This long handed reach into the smaller towered airports is, I believe, a total waste of energy.=C2- The small commercial operation affected wil l have to provide and pay for the TSA approved employees to check out each aircraft and person boarding.=C2- I can see the closing of businesses due to the increased regulations and costs placed on them.=C2- It looks like they've been given too much freedom to act in the name of "security". We sure hope it stops soon, yet all indications are that the "red tape" is going to get really deep.... Bruce 40018 == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: New TSA Security Requirements
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Hey, Brian. How's the Cirrus running? Hope you can come up to Albany this Spring for the RV-10 gathering. Once an RV-10 builder, always an RV-10 builder! John _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cloudvalley(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements Hello John! Thank you for that! I love it! Get the H off our field! I would have loved to see that! Ha Ha HA... We will look for a field like that also, or igve up flying before we allow any intrusion into our freedom when it comes to flying. We wrote Phil Boyer before who agreed with me about the tsa. Brian Preston ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
Date: Feb 04, 2009
And what about the 45,000+ Americans who die on our nations highways annually? TSA money would be better spent giving those worthless TSA morons a radar gun and monitoring highway speeds. Chuck -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dj Merrill" <deej(at)deej.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 8:17 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements > > bruce breckenridge wrote: >> It would be great if EVERYONE failed to comply. Might send a message, >> but at the expense of many who might pay a high price for standing firm. > > > I'm convinced you are correct, and that is probably the only way to > convince the gov't to get rid of the menace that the TSA presents to the > US and our way of life. > > -Dj > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Jay, I debated about this also. Fortunately I got Van's high temp sealant before they stopped shipping it. Rather than seal the firewall flange, I sealed the aft side of the firewall to fuselage skins. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228490#228490 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MT prop governor rotation - final position
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2009
I need to position my MT prop governor to set the opening in the fwd baffle on the left front area of the engine. I know that you loosen the six screws that retain the governor arm. You only loosen the screws - DO NOT REMOVE. Then you can rotate the arm part of the prop governor. This related to me by Jurgen at MT. Question: What is the final position of the arm on the MT prop governor? It looks like the passive position of the arm should be in the 10:00 position as you look at it from the pilot side. Could anyone already flying please set me straight on this......... -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228509#228509 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Paul Bowmar at Plane Innovations LLC (formerly of EPM-AV) has an excellent and thoroughly tested products. He sells a 2000 degree silicone seal for his fire protection kits. He will sell you some at a reasonable price. This stuff should be a lot better than the red goop........I bought some myself. Bowmar also sells the stainless steel heater valves to replace the aluminum Van's valves on the firewall. I consider this a MANDATORY Option (along with the rivethead door pins and CNC trim blocks) when you are building this kit. It would be foolish to spend a lot of time on hi-temp sealant and ignore the biggest risk area on your firewall. As I recall the Plane Innovations SS valves are $200 and Vans will give you a $100 credit on the aluminum ones deleted from the kit. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228510#228510 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Motivation
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Verrrry nice :D :D :D :D -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228511#228511 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Nose Wheel Spacer - Shimmy
Date: Feb 04, 2009
I know this have been mentioned on the list before, but I have some new experience that I thought I would share to the list. I have recently checked the need for an additional spacer under the WD-1015 Nose Gear Link Collar. I found that to put a little preload on the Nose Gear Elastomers, I had to add 2 spacers for a total of 3 after the elastomers had seated. This definitely seems to help the shimmy issue. Also, on the nose gear axle, with the newer Van's spacers and after turning about 1/16" off the end of the axle (making it shorter to preload the bearings with the spacers), there seems to be no movement of the spacer or bearing after substantial use. The key, I think, is to shorten the axle a little bit. I have seen that the Bellville Washers that control the tension on pivoting the fork does loosen over time, and not just once, which can really cause a shimmy if loose. The problem is getting the 26 lbs of force that Van's recommends with a 1/6th turn increment on that castle nut. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: firewall sealant and valve option
Date: Feb 04, 2009
I have been working with Paul to modify the heater valves as I believe the product is very solid and seeing the RV-7 vents that have small lips around them I asked if he would make one like those for the RV-10. I believe he is working on this and it will be a Must have as Mike has mentioned. I am rather certain that the hot tunnel will be diminished. I'll report back once I have the new valve and have completed the heat gun test. I trust based on the products so far that it will be a worthwhile investment. My reasoning is what good is a stainless steel firewall with a weak aluminum valve that gaps/leaks when there is the option to have stainless steel valve that has lips that blocks the gaps. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowl hinge sealant? > > Paul Bowmar at Plane Innovations LLC (formerly of EPM-AV) has an excellent > and thoroughly tested products. > > He sells a 2000 degree silicone seal for his fire protection kits. He will > sell you some at a reasonable price. This stuff should be a lot better > than the red goop........I bought some myself. > > Bowmar also sells the stainless steel heater valves to replace the > aluminum Van's valves on the firewall. I consider this a MANDATORY Option > (along with the rivethead door pins and CNC trim blocks) when you are > building this kit. It would be foolish to spend a lot of time on hi-temp > sealant and ignore the biggest risk area on your firewall. As I recall the > Plane Innovations SS valves are $200 and Vans will give you a $100 credit > on the aluminum ones deleted from the kit. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228510#228510 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Spacer - Shimmy
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I know that on Mooneys, no play at all is allowable for the nose gear shock disks..probably exact same parts from Lord. In fact, when new there is a LOT of force compressing those disks. Once they age to where there isn't pre-tension on the disks, they need to be replaced on Mooneys. On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 2:23 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > I know this have been mentioned on the list before, but I have some new > experience that I thought I would share to the list. I have recently > checked the need for an additional spacer under the WD-1015 Nose Gear Link > Collar. I found that to put a little preload on the Nose Gear Elastomers, I > had to add 2 spacers for a total of 3 after the elastomers had seated. This > definitely seems to help the shimmy issue. Also, on the nose gear axle, > with the newer Van's spacers and after turning about 1/16" off the end of > the axle (making it shorter to preload the bearings with the spacers), there > seems to be no movement of the spacer or bearing after substantial use. The > key, I think, is to shorten the axle a little bit. I have seen that the > Bellville Washers that control the tension on pivoting the fork does loosen > over time, and not just once, which can really cause a shimmy if loose. The > problem is getting the 26 lbs of force that Van's recommends with a 1/6th > turn increment on that castle nut. > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: New TSA Security Requirements
Date: Feb 04, 2009
At KBED, you just arranged to get in and out of the fence through an FBO. I'm guessing that would hold for HIO. Two flying RV-10's there. You could always hook up with them for the procedures. Any reason for HIO? Nicer places to land, cheaper fuel. John _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James McGrew Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 4:18 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements So what does this mean if you are a transient aircraft at KHIO? That's where I go when I'm in Portland. -Jim n312je ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2009
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
Hello John! =C2-We would love to fly up and join you this year! Thank you. We are sta rting the Farmers' market in April on Saturday, since our farm has not sold yet. Th e price is down now and ma y sell this spring- can't count on that though.=C2-We may not go to every market early on. When is the gathering ? We sold that Cirrus because our house didn't sell, and lots of things kept needing maintenance; thank God=C2-it was=C2-under warrantee! We finally flew it to Scottsdale and sold it there. Then we found a low time 79 Grumm an Tiger that is really nice. Since Ruth flew those for over 30 years we bo ught it in Alabama from a retired=C2- 747 pilot. Flew it home. Affordable and fun! We go to Independence a lot. Our mechanic lives there.=C2-When we do sell the farm we may still be in the market for an RV-10 project that is much closer to completion if the economy comes back. Talk to you soon. Please let us know when and where John. Thanks again. Brian and Ruth ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 10:02:59 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements Hey, Brian.=C2- How's the Cirrus running?=C2- Hope you can come up to A lbany this Spring for the RV-10 gathering.=C2- Once an RV-10=C2-builder , always an RV-10 builder!=C2- John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of cloudvalley(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements Hello John! =C2-Thank you for that! I love it! Get the H off our field! I would have loved to see that! Ha Ha HA... =C2-We will look for a field like that also, or igve up flying before we allow any intrusion into our freedom=C2- when it comes to flying. We wrot e Phil Boyer before who agreed with me about the tsa. Brian Preston == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Spacer - Shimmy
Jesse Saint wrote: SNIP > I have seen that the Bellville Washers that control the tension on > pivoting the fork does loosen over time, and not just once, which can > really cause a shimmy if loose. The problem is getting the 26 lbs of > force that Van's recommends with a 1/6th turn increment on that castle > nut. More is better .... at least on my Grumman which has the same setup. The specs for the Grumman are 25 Lbs, measured by pull at the axle, but experience is that near 30 is better. Different scenarios in stacking the washers also makes a difference. Stacking two washers belly up and two washers belly down should help with the loosening problem. since I haven't gotten that far, I have no idea how Van recommends stacking the washers. Linn > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: THrottle Cable Length
Date: Feb 04, 2009
Was the chatter a while back about insufficient throttle cable length for the quadrant or the vernier style throttle? -Chris #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Installing Door Windows
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2009
The instructions call for installing the windows in the doors while the doors are not on the plane. While it might be easier that way, I am wondering if there would be any advantage of bonding the windows while the doors are on the plane, locked closed. My thoughts are that it might be possible to induce a small amount of twisting/distortion when bonded off the plane, vs being bonded on the plane. Thoughts would be appreciated. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228643#228643 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Door Windows
Date: Feb 05, 2009
If you're using Weld-on, the stuff runs.. it is MUCH easier to do it on a table than the plane. I did it on a table and there was no issue. I would suggest putting the Weld-on while flat, let it sit (after all the tape is removed) than put it on the plane after 2 hours, and lock it down, not needed but that would be be better than the mess that would occur from the weld-on dripping down the door. -------------------------------------------------- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Installing Door Windows > > The instructions call for installing the windows in the doors while the > doors are not on the plane. While it might be easier that way, I am > wondering if there would be any advantage of bonding the windows while the > doors are on the plane, locked closed. > My thoughts are that it might be possible to induce a small amount of > twisting/distortion when bonded off the plane, vs being bonded on the > plane. > Thoughts would be appreciated. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Engine, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228643#228643 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Door Windows
orchidman wrote: > > The instructions call for installing the windows in the doors while the doors are not on the plane. While it might be easier that way, I am wondering if there would be any advantage of bonding the windows while the doors are on the plane, locked closed. > My thoughts are that it might be possible to induce a small amount of twisting/distortion when bonded off the plane, vs being bonded on the plane. > Thoughts would be appreciated. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Engine, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228643#228643 > > > Much easier to do off the plane. Any small twist will be taken care of by the hours of filling and sanding at time of final prep for paint. Dr Fred. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2009
Subject: Kits
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I note that on Tim's site for what is in the various kits, there are listings for a firewall forward kit, separate from finishing kit. However, Vans only lists empennage, fuselage, wing and finishing kits. Has Vans changed how they package things? Or is that just a convenient division of parts in the finishing kit? Kelly 40866 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2009
Something like this? Problem is that vendors want to sell it by the case (12). Jay http://www.fireretardantsinc.com/3m/images/3m_2000_silicone.pdf Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228687#228687 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Antenna Mounting - Sealant vs Gasket?
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2009
A couple of my antennas came with gaskets while others didn't. I spoke with an avionics guy yesterday and he was of the opinion that one should ditch the gasket in favor of a silicone sealant. Any other opinions out there? If sealant, what sort would do the job? Would antennas need to come off before painting? Cheers, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228698#228698 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna Mounting - Sealant vs Gasket?
I'm not in favor of scrapping the gaskets. They really help in the problem of dissimilar metals corrosion, and cushion the installation. A fillet of clear silicone will help keep water out .... and if you're worried about paint not adhering, there's paintable caulk out there. As for sealant, I really like the hi-temp red silicone .... for almost anything. Linn jayb wrote: > > A couple of my antennas came with gaskets while others didn't. I spoke with an avionics guy yesterday and he was of the opinion that one should ditch the gasket in favor of a silicone sealant. > > Any other opinions out there? If sealant, what sort would do the job? Would antennas need to come off before painting? > > Cheers, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228698#228698 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Avionics Liquidation website
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2009
Found this website and got a new COMANT 105 xponder antenna at a reasonable price. They have all sorts of misc avionics and he's willing to deal... http://www.jimkantor.com/ Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228705#228705 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Kits
Date: Feb 05, 2009
The firewall kit is highly dependent on which engine you get. There are too many options, so quite a few folks roll their own. Vans does sell a firewall kit for the 540 models they sell. It's in their catalog. You can use those as a starting point if you get an engine from another source. There is no overlap with the finishing kit. You can see the details here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1233864459-434-198&bro wse=engines&product=FF_Kit The following is off the web store. The RV-10 Firewall Forward Kits below can be ordered with or without a three lever throttle/prop/mixture quadrant part number "CT10-3". If you opt for the NON three lever quadrant, your engine control cables will be supplied as vernier style. >From December 2007, FWF kits DO NOT contain the wiring harness. EXAMPLE KIT FOR AN RV-7A, O-360, WITH A CONSTANT-SPEED PROPELLER: 1 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0" 1 VA-139 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 16.5" 1 CT BLUE VPROP 48 7(ALL)/9(ALL) 1 CT BLK THROTTLE 44 6(ALL)/7(360)/9(320) 1 CT RED VMIXTURE 45 7(360)/9(320) 1 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 1 BAF-360 COWL BAFFLE KIT 6/7/8 1 VA-149-360-PC KIT THROTTLE/MIXTURE BRACKET 1 VA-153-PC McCauley or MT governor cable bracket 1 PROP GOV MT P-860-4 (I)O-320/360 LYCOMING 1 AT0-028X3/16X6 ALUMINUM TUBE SOFT 1 AT6-058X5/16X15 7/8 ALUMINUM TUBE HARD 1 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 STAINLESS CLAMP MATERIAL 1 FF 3/4 FIREWALL PL SS FIREWALL PLUG 1 ES PC680 INSTALL KIT BATTERY MOUNT 7/9 1 AS3-063X1X12 ALUMINUM STRIP 1 EA LV-1 HEAT SHIELD EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD 2 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK 1 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE 1 EA CV HOSE 9816 BREATHER HOSE 4 CYL 1 EA DYNA BOLT BOLT SET 4 CYL DYNAFOCAL 4 EA DYNA VI-STD VIB.ISO. ALL EXCEPT-10 1 EA EXH W/MUFF 320/360 EXHAUST SYSTEM 1 EA OIL COOLER II O-320/360 OIL COOLER 1 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID RELAY 1 ES 24115 MASTER SOLENOID RELAY 1 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT 1 FF-705 OIL BREATHER TUBE 1 FF-709 OIL COOLER DOUBLER 1 VA-161 GASCOLATOR DOUBLER 1 IE VMP INSTALL KIT MANIFOLD PRESSURE FITTINGS 1 GAS-5 GASCOLATOR 1 PT-035X1/4X12 FUEL OVERFLOW TUBE 1 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 1 VA-168 FIREWALL SENDER MOUNT 1 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 1 VA-134 OIL COOLER HOSE 19.0 1 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 1 VENT DL-03 2" ALUMINUM DUCT FLANGE 1 VENT SCAT 2X6' RED SCAT TUBE 2"X 6' 1 VENT TG-10 CABIN HEAT SELECTOR 1 DOC FWF COMPLETE TEXT/DRAWINGS 1 CT BEARING HWR, CARB BOLT, NUT, WASHERS 1 CT BEARING HWR, PROP BOLT, NUT, WASHERS 1 BAG 604-1 FF MISC. HDWRE 1 BAG 607 FF MISC. HDWRE 1 BAG 608 FF MISC. HDWRE 1 BAG 611 FF MISC. HDWRE 1 BAG 613-1 FF MISC. HARDWARE 1 BAG 958 AN426AD3-4 1 BAG 991 AN426AD3-3.5 1 BAG 1907 AN426AD4-7 1 BAG 1916 AN426AD3-4.5 1 BAG 1934 AN426AD3-5 1 BAG 1935 AN426AD3-6 1 BAG 312 AN426AD4-6 1 BAG 1978 AN470AD4-5 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 10:57 AM Subject: RV10-List: Kits I note that on Tim's site for what is in the various kits, there are listings for a firewall forward kit, separate from finishing kit. However, Vans only lists empennage, fuselage, wing and finishing kits. Has Vans changed how they package things? Or is that just a convenient division of parts in the finishing kit? Kelly 40866 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Avionics Liquidation website
Date: Feb 05, 2009
Have you confirmed that the merchandise is as representeed i.e. new lightspeed headsets The 30-3G lists for $545. Anybody a clue as to value? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 12:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Avionics Liquidation website Found this website and got a new COMANT 105 xponder antenna at a reasonable price. They have all sorts of misc avionics and he's willing to deal... http://www.jimkantor.com/ Regards, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228705#228705 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Kits
Thanks for the replies. Appreciate all that. I think it is a bit disingenuous of Vans to not list it in the kit prices <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/kitprice.htm>, and in the price estimator to show $3400-4800 when the current price is $6000. Oh well, won't be the first chunk overlooked in budget. I don't see a whole lot changing in that kit if you stick with a 540 series engine, regardless of source, which is perhaps 98% of all RV-10s? Obviously we can choose to roll own, with the time issues to research, price, order, etc. Kelly Bob Leffler wrote: > > The firewall kit is highly dependent on which engine you get. There are too > many options, so quite a few folks roll their own. Vans does sell a > firewall kit for the 540 models they sell. It's in their catalog. You > can use those as a starting point if you get an engine from another source. > > There is no overlap with the finishing kit. You can see the details here: > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1233864459-434-198&bro > wse=engines&product=FF_Kit The following is off the web store. > > T ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: FW: pre-load axle spacers
Date: Feb 05, 2009
I received this email today and I am a little confused. I thought I had pur chased and received this product several weeks ago=2C but I can't seem to l ocate the box in the shop. I sometimes do not open the boxes until I need t he item so I may be completely confused the box as it may have been a box f or a different item. I may have purchased direct from the fabricator?....ca n anyone shed some light on this. At least to this point=2C I have not star ted working on the wrong tooth.Reviewing credit card statements.This is why I don't like it when the family throws their stuff down in the shop...I HA TE CLUTTER!!!!John Gonzalez 40409 with Old Timers at 42.Date: Thu=2C 5 Feb ol.comTo: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com**an immediate response is needed** After much discussion between Cleaveland Tool and Effectus=2C a decision wa s made to produce a one-time-run of the adjustable pre-load axle spacers fo r the RV10 nose wheel. This action is in consideration of the orders made prior to Matco producing their own part. Prices will be: RV10 axle spacer $170.00 RV6=2C 7=2C 8=2C 9 $180.00 (includes replacement axel) We want to have an accurate number of axles=3B therefore we ask that you pl ease respond to this email by Jan 27th. A positive response will lock you in for the purchase of the axle. Cleaveland Aircraft Tool www.cleavelandtool.com 515-432-6794 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Axle issue
Date: Feb 05, 2009
I think it figured it out. I never had the box nor the item...it was backor derred and they are asking if I still want it dispite a cheaper option. So rry for showing my confusion.Yes I still want it and this time I will put t he item in my hand and then store it. Should need it in a few days.John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Subject: Kits
There are definitely cheaper and better options for some of the items for t he FWF kit. For instance I believe both Bonaco and Aircrafthose.com have k its to replace the Van's hoses for less money and with integral fire sleeve . I know I went through and deleted probably about half the items in the F WF. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 9:30 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Kits Thanks for the replies. Appreciate all that. I think it is a bit disingenuo us of Vans to not list it in the kit prices <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pu blic/kitprice.htm><http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/kitprice.htm>, and in the price estimator to show $3400-4800 when the current price is $6000. Oh well, won't be the first chunk overlooked in budget. I don't see a whole l ot changing in that kit if you stick with a 540 series engine, regardless o f source, which is perhaps 98% of all RV-10s? Obviously we can choose to ro ll own, with the time issues to research, price, order, etc. Kelly Bob Leffler wrote: rv(at)thelefflers.com> The firewall kit is highly dependent on which engine you get. There are to o many options, so quite a few folks roll their own. Vans does sell a firewall kit for the 540 models they sell. It's in their catalog. You can use those as a starting point if you get an engine from another source. There is no overlap with the finishing kit. You can see the details here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1233864459-434-198& bro wse=engines&product=FF_Kit The following is off the web store. T [cid:image001.jpg(at)01C98830.6880A980] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Flamemaster Shelf Life
I have some expired Flamemaster. Some expired in 2007 and some in 2008. It has spent most of it life since I have had it in the freezer. Is it still good? How would I know if it is not good. Larry Rosen #356 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flamemaster Shelf Life
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Larry, Mine was crap after the expiration date...I cured so fast it never made it out of the tube, that was the firewall sealant...the proseal seemed Ok but I only used it on the cabin top and naca vents Rick S. ------Original Message------ From: Larry Rosen Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ReplyTo: Rv Sent: Feb 6, 2009 8:35 AM Subject: RV10-List: Flamemaster Shelf Life I have some expired Flamemaster. Some expired in 2007 and some in 2008. It has spent most of it life since I have had it in the freezer. Is it still good? How would I know if it is not good. Larry Rosen #356 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Take a look at this company, as well. I have used their FP200 expanding foam with excellent results. This caulk looks like it might fit your needs. http://cableorganizer.com/3m-fire-protection/fire-rated-caulk-cp310.htm John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228937#228937 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Bowmar" <paul(at)bwbco.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
The problem I found with intumescent fire block products is that they begin to intumess or expand at about 250 degrees. Close proximity to 400 degree cylinder heads could touch off the expansion leaving future voids. Plane Innovations sells a NON intumescent 2000 degree fireblock sealant. www.planeinnovations.com Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 1:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowl hinge sealant? > > Take a look at this company, as well. I have used their FP200 expanding > foam with excellent results. This caulk looks like it might fit your > needs. > > http://cableorganizer.com/3m-fire-protection/fire-rated-caulk-cp310.htm > > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228937#228937 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
There's no need to get Intumescent caulk online, it can be had at any local hardware store. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 2:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowl hinge sealant? Take a look at this company, as well. I have used their FP200 expanding foam with excellent results. This caulk looks like it might fit your needs. http://cableorganizer.com/3m-fire-protection/fire-rated-caulk-cp310.htm John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228937#228937 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Parking brake
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2009
I would appreciate the brain trust opinion on parking brake installation. I have one in my Socata and find it very useful. Are there downsides other than cost and more seals to leak? Are the Van's valve and install kit the way most are doing it or are there alternatives? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228974#228974 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge sealant?
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > There's no need to get Intumescent caulk online, it can be had at any local hardware store. > > Michael I had to look it up ..... great scrabble word!!! :-) : An *intumescent* is a substance which swells as a result of heat <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat> exposure, thus increasing in volume <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volume>, and decreasing in density <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density>. Intumescents are typically used in passive fire protection <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_fire_protection> and, in America, require listing and approval use and compliance <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Listing_and_approval_use_and_compliance> in their installed configurations in order to comply with the law <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law>. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Aileron rigging - Reflex ?
I have the flaps and ailerons mounted to the wing and the wing is attached to the fuse. (I don't have the wing tips on yet). It's pretty straight forward to align the ailerons with the trailing edges of each flap. However, I recall somewhere seeing/hearing about a 'reflex' position where the ailerons were rigged 'up' 2-3 degrees on each side. IIRC correctly this increased performance. What's the experience/advice from those who are flying? Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....and it's almost put together.....' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Hi Myron, It's pretty easy to roll your own bracket for mounting. I made mine from 3/4" angle and Nick Gautier gave me a duplicate of his plate design that you see between the bracket and valve in the picture attached that will hold the adel clamp for the vernier cable and forms the stop for the arm on the valve. The valve, straight fittings and other odds and ends shouldn't reach $200.00... and you can get it all from Spruce. Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF Progress suddenly slowed by the economy (all kinds of time, but no money for the panel) you have the same number of connections to make On Feb 6, 2009, at 2:31 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > I would appreciate the brain trust opinion on parking brake > installation. > I have one in my Socata and find it very useful. Are there > downsides other than cost and more seals to leak? > > Are the Van's valve and install kit the way most are doing it or > are there alternatives? > > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228974#228974 > >

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Subject: Re: Aileron rigging - Reflex ?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1233967990-424-648&browse=airframe&product=reflex talks about it, so I assume it exists. Wondering if this unit is preferable to the flap positioning system. On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 5:47 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I have the flaps and ailerons mounted to the wing and the wing is attached > to the fuse. (I don't have the wing tips on yet). It's pretty straight > forward to align the ailerons with the trailing edges of each flap. However, > I recall somewhere seeing/hearing about a 'reflex' position where the > ailerons were rigged 'up' 2-3 degrees on each side. IIRC correctly this > increased performance. What's the experience/advice from those who are > flying? > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....and it's almost put together.....' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Up on its' gear
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Can someone give me a measurement of how high the fuse bottom is off the gr ound while the plane is on it's gear.I need to barrow a pallet jack to rais e my fuse holder off the ground and I want to barrow it and return it in th e same day.Thanks=2CJOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Mills" <millstees(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Up on its' gear
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Mine is 27", measured at the landing gear. Steve Mills _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Up on its' gear Can someone give me a measurement of how high the fuse bottom is off the ground while the plane is on it's gear. I need to barrow a pallet jack to raise my fuse holder off the ground and I want to barrow it and return it in the same day. Thanks, JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Rene' 801-721-6080 Got an e-mail from Matco today saying they charged my CC, so I gave them a call and yes they were preparing to ship a whole bunch of the axles. Since I am only about 20 miles from them I just asked them to hold mine and ran down and got it. Very nice company to work with. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Myron, I think the parking brake is a 'no-brainer'. I assume that Van's is selling the Matco unit. The installation is straight forward, as far as seals go, The unit is fairly simple and easily serviced. I doubt that you will have a leak in the airplanes useful life. Do it! (its only money!) Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 06, 2009
I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. Kevin Belue Sent from my iPhone On Feb 6, 2009, at 8:55 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > Myron, I think the parking brake is a 'no-brainer'. I assume that > Van's is selling the Matco unit. The installation is straight > forward, as far as seals go, The unit is fairly simple and easily > serviced. I doubt that you will have a leak in the airplanes useful > life. Do it! (its only money!) > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to replace the 3 O-rings fairly easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/mastercylinder23a.pdf I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? Deems Kevin Belue wrote: > > I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak > until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started > leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron rigging - Reflex ?
Deems; Put the flaps up in the reflex position and then line up the ailerons. You really have to have the wingtips on before you can set the ailerons. The cruise position is to have everything in the "reflex" position. Alex D. taught me to drop the flaps from the reflex to the neutral on downwind. It helps slow you down. Fred Cant wait to see you get done. Deems Davis wrote: > > I have the flaps and ailerons mounted to the wing and the wing is > attached to the fuse. (I don't have the wing tips on yet). It's > pretty straight forward to align the ailerons with the trailing edges > of each flap. However, I recall somewhere seeing/hearing about a > 'reflex' position where the ailerons were rigged 'up' 2-3 degrees on > each side. IIRC correctly this increased performance. What's the > experience/advice from those who are flying? > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....and it's almost put together.....' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 06, 2009
Yes, I was thinking it would be easy to repair, but after the pain of getting to it and removing it, I decided to not go through that again and left it out. It is really in a difficult place to access once everything is finished. I mounted mine the same as most of you did- in place of the bracket that holds the brake lines to the firewall. I hope you guys have better luck than I did. Kevin Belue Sent from my iPhone On Feb 6, 2009, at 9:49 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? > Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to > replace the 3 O-rings fairly easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/ > mastercylinder23a.pdf > I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? > > Deems > > > Kevin Belue wrote: >> >> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak >> until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started >> leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 06, 2009
I would let Matco know of this. I think they would make it right based on my experience with them thus far. Also if there is an issue, which I can't figure out why the valve would fail so soon then they need to be aware of it. Since yours is out already no harm calling Matco explaining the issue and seeing if they will RMA and fix for you and figure out why the valves are leaking. P -------------------------------------------------- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 7:49 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake > > Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? > Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to replace > the 3 O-rings fairly > easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/mastercylinder23a.pdf > I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? > > Deems > > > Kevin Belue wrote: >> >> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak until I >> started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started leaking out of >> the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Parking brake
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Did you have the PVPV-1 or PVPV-D? I just ordered a PV-2 yesterday from Van's, which I believe is the PVPV-D. Just curious..... Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 11:43 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake Yes, I was thinking it would be easy to repair, but after the pain of getting to it and removing it, I decided to not go through that again and left it out. It is really in a difficult place to access once everything is finished. I mounted mine the same as most of you did- in place of the bracket that holds the brake lines to the firewall. I hope you guys have better luck than I did. Kevin Belue Sent from my iPhone On Feb 6, 2009, at 9:49 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? > Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to > replace the 3 O-rings fairly easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/ > mastercylinder23a.pdf > I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? > > Deems > > > Kevin Belue wrote: >> >> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak >> until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started >> leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2009
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: New TSA Security Requirements
Hi John, =C2-Did you get my last message about going to the spring gathering and s elling our Cirrus and getting a low-time Tiger? Brian ----- Original Message ----- From: "" <n212pJohn Jessenj(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 10:02:59 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements Hey, Brian.=C2- How's the Cirrus running?=C2- Hope you can come up to A lbany this Spring for the RV-10 gathering.=C2- Once an RV-10=C2-builder , always an RV-10 builder!=C2- John From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of cloudvalley(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: New TSA Security Requirements Hello John! =C2-Thank you for that! I love it! Get the H off our field! I would have loved to see that! Ha Ha HA... =C2-We will look for a field like that also, or igve up flying before we allow any intrusion into our freedom=C2- when it comes to flying. We wrot e Phil Boyer before who agreed with me about the tsa. Brian Preston == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Parking brake
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Another leak issue is when you set the break and it is cool, go away and the weather warms, it will blow out the seal in the wheel because there is no place for the expanded fluid to go. This happened with solid lines, so if you have flexible ones you might be OK. Someone with too much time on there hands could calculate the expansion volume and let us know. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 10:50 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to replace the 3 O-rings fairly easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/mastercylinder23a.pdf I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? Deems Kevin Belue wrote: > > I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak > until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started > leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MT prop governor rotation - final position
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2009
AirMike wrote: > I need to position my MT prop governor to set the opening in the fwd baffle on the left front area of the engine. I know that you loosen the six screws that retain the governor arm. You only loosen the screws - DO NOT REMOVE. Then you can rotate the arm part of the prop governor. This related to me by Jurgen at MT. > > Question: What is the final position of the arm on the MT prop governor? > > It looks like the passive position of the arm should be in the 10:00 position as you look at it from the pilot side. Could anyone already flying please set me straight on this......... Did you ever find out the starting 'clocking' position. I want to do this, this weekend also. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229049#229049 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
I don't think any parking brake will stand up to that abuse. IMHO, a parking brake is to hold the aircraft just long enough for you to place chocks, or to hold it during runup so you don't inadvertently let it creep while running checklist. Holding pressure on the system for hours or days is just asking for a leak or failed O-ring. gary wrote: > > Another leak issue is when you set the break and it is cool, go away and the > weather warms, it will blow out the seal in the wheel because there is no > place for the expanded fluid to go. This happened with solid lines, so if > you have flexible ones you might be OK. Someone with too much time on there > hands could calculate the expansion volume and let us know. > > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 10:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake > > > Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? > Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to replace > the 3 O-rings fairly > easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/mastercylinder23a.pdf > I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? > > Deems > > > Kevin Belue wrote: > >> >> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak >> until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started >> leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >> >> > > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 07, 2009
The word "parking brake" is deceiving. It is not meant to be left on all the time when "parked". It is for temporary use. set to hold plane in place while a long term solution (chocks, etc) is completed. The parking brake is than released before leaving. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 5:42 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Parking brake > > Another leak issue is when you set the break and it is cool, go away and > the > weather warms, it will blow out the seal in the wheel because there is no > place for the expanded fluid to go. This happened with solid lines, so if > you have flexible ones you might be OK. Someone with too much time on > there > hands could calculate the expansion volume and let us know. > > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 10:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake > > > Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? > Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to replace > the 3 O-rings fairly > easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/mastercylinder23a.pdf > I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? > > Deems > > > Kevin Belue wrote: >> >> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak >> until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started >> leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: race
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Feb 07, 2009
this was posted on Vansairforce web site by Pierre Smith--neat!!!! Larry B. "I was reading my new EAA Chapter 172 newsletter this morning and the following story appeared: A friend of mine had flown his brand new RV-10 to Greenwood, S.C. for a breakfast meeting and so had another friend of ours, in his F-33 Bonanza. They agreed to do a formation takeoff with the RV ahead, then in level flight, start the race at 2500RPM. The Bonanza pilot hollered to slow down on take-off because the -10 was blistering him, so he rotated with only 18" MP showing. The Bo pilot flew directly behind the unpainted -10 in order to sync his prop with the ten, visually (how cool is that?). BTW, this guy flies airshows in his MX 20, then pulled up alongside the 10. "Let's go, full throttle", he said. The -10 couldn't believe that he was pulling the airplane of his dreams, the Bo' by a hefty margin, neither could the Bo's owner......end result.....even with the gear tucked, the -33 made 176 GPS knots and the RV did 184 GPS knots, on his Garmin 430!! full of fuel, one soul aboard both airplanes. The -10 has a three-bladed composite prop and a stock IO-540, and it's named "Bo Derek". They relayed the results back via radio to the EAA guys who were all made aware of the impending race beforehand...too cool. BTW...the -10 has a Sam James cowl and plenum. He's contemplating a new name now....Bo' smoker...Mercedes beater.. Yep, all you -10 builders will never regret your decision," Regards, __________________ Pierre Smith RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (410Hrs) Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor....green Transition training Louisville, Ga -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229066#229066 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MT prop governor rotation - final position
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 07, 2009
I looked in my archives from OSH-08 and found some pictures that indicate that the arm should be in the 10:00-10:30 position. See my prior comments on rotation. You want the arm to be able to pull down without too much fore and aft movement on the bushing One thing that this taught me was that my 200+ pictures of RV10's that I took at OSH were a real help in finishing this project. If you are a newbee, I cannot tell you how valuable the pictures that you take at OSH (of RV10's) are in finishing this plane -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229069#229069 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1020054_192.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Up on its' gear
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Yes to all of the above, but you need to raise it up higher than that in order to capture the gear in the receiver. I would est that you need to jack it 33-36" up to get the gear legs in the hole. Remember also to grease the gear legs before hand. Good luck. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229073#229073 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MT prop governor rotation - final position
Date: Feb 07, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Deems and Tim are my baseline when it comes to thousands of pictures. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of AirMike Sent: Sat 2/7/2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: MT prop governor rotation - final position I looked in my archives from OSH-08 and found some pictures that indicate that the arm should be in the 10:00-10:30 position. See my prior comments on rotation. You want the arm to be able to pull down without too much fore and aft movement on the bushing One thing that this taught me was that my 200+ pictures of RV10's that I took at OSH were a real help in finishing this project. If you are a newbee, I cannot tell you how valuable the pictures that you take at OSH (of RV10's) are in finishing this plane -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229069#229069 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1020054_192.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior
Date: Feb 07, 2009
With the downturn in the economy (my business, a commercial printing company, is down 40%) I'm having to rethink my RV-10 plans and would love to hear some thoughts about cost cutting options in the home stretch. I imagine I'm not the only one struggling with these issues and I think the conversation would benefit many. Because of where I am in the build, and the many topics this will span, I think it's best to break this in to three threads: Interior, Panel and Paint. Others may want to expand beyond these three, but these are the areas I have in front of me to consider. The option of taking on a partner is also something I'm considering, but I want to see things play out a while longer before I go that route. My plan has been to buy a Flightline Interior in leather at a cost of about $5000. I'm now considering adding the craft of upholstery to the list of things I've learned while building this plane. For those that have "rolled your own" interiors, was the raw material cost low enough to realize some savings? What are some good resources for headliner, carpet and leather? What tools are required? What are the best "How To" books to read? Up until now, I have had a nice mix of time and money. Now I've got a surplus of time... money, not so much. Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Panel
Date: Feb 07, 2009
This is the panel I want (well, what I really want is a Garmin G900X), but the current economic conditions are making it look like I'm going to have to work up to this panel instead of getting it all at once. I think I'm going to have to start out as a basic VFR machine. With that in mind, what is the essential subset here and in what order would you add the other items? AFS Advanced Deck with AOA and Battery Back Up ARINC 429 Datalink GNS 430W SL30 Trutrak Digiflight II VSGV GTX 330 Transponder PMA9000EX Audio Panel Compass and this: UMA 2 1/4" Airspeed Indicator UMA 2 1/4" Altimeter Trutrak 2 1/4" ADI with Battery Back Up or this: AFS 3400 and Battery Back Up Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Jeff, when I built my Pietenpol Aircamper (which, btw is in this month's Sport Aviation on page 78) I got an entire hide of leather from B&B Aircraft Supply at OSH for $110 (this was in 2002). I made the seat cushions with Temperfoam and then took the foam and the leather to a local upholstery shop that specializes in boat upholstery. They charged me $400 to make two seat cushions, so between the foam, the leather and the upholstery shop, I put a total of about $600 into two seats (and had enough leather left over to make the cockpit coamings, and still more is left). I would think if you do it yourself like that, even paying professionals to sew it (leather requires pretty heavy duty sewing machines) you should be able to do all four seats for about $1,000. Jack Philllips RV-10 #40610 Pietenpol NX899JP -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 4:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior With the downturn in the economy (my business, a commercial printing company, is down 40%) I'm having to rethink my RV-10 plans and would love to hear some thoughts about cost cutting options in the home stretch. I imagine I'm not the only one struggling with these issues and I think the conversation would benefit many. Because of where I am in the build, and the many topics this will span, I think it's best to break this in to three threads: Interior, Panel and Paint. Others may want to expand beyond these three, but these are the areas I have in front of me to consider. The option of taking on a partner is also something I'm considering, but I want to see things play out a while longer before I go that route. My plan has been to buy a Flightline Interior in leather at a cost of about $5000. I'm now considering adding the craft of upholstery to the list of things I've learned while building this plane. For those that have "rolled your own" interiors, was the raw material cost low enough to realize some savings? What are some good resources for headliner, carpet and leather? What tools are required? What are the best "How To" books to read? Up until now, I have had a nice mix of time and money. Now I've got a surplus of time... money, not so much. Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Panel
If are really trying to save money now with the ability to add it later consider this: Paint the interior, you can then add it later. The head liner would be easier to install now, but many have done it later. Don't paint the exterior until later You will get the most bang for your buck on the panel, and it will still be much better than most of the spam cans out there. Single screen ASF 3500, leave room for the second screen SL 30 portable Garmin gps x96 which you may already have GTX 327 PMA 8000 compass use your portable com as the back up add the air speed and altimeter (they are not that expensive) install the ADI later If you plan for the future adding in the other components later will not be that hard. You could even cut the openings now and cover them with a plate. Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > This is the panel I want (well, what I really want is a Garmin G900X), > but the current economic conditions are making it look like I'm going > to have to work up to this panel instead of getting it all at once. I > think I'm going to have to start out as a basic VFR machine. With > that in mind, what is the essential subset here and in what order > would you add the other items? > > > AFS Advanced Deck with AOA and Battery Back Up > ARINC 429 Datalink > GNS 430W > SL30 > Trutrak Digiflight II VSGV > GTX 330 Transponder > PMA9000EX Audio Panel > Compass > > and this: > > UMA 2 1/4" Airspeed Indicator > UMA 2 1/4" Altimeter > Trutrak 2 1/4" ADI with Battery Back Up > > or this: > > AFS 3400 and Battery Back Up > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MT prop governor rotation - final position
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2009
AirMike wrote: > I looked in my archives from OSH-08 and found some pictures that indicate that the arm should be in the 10:00-10:30 position. A picture is worth a 1000 words. Thanks -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229118#229118 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior
Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > With the downturn in the economy (my business, a commercial printing > company, is down 40%) I'm having to rethink my RV-10 plans and would > love to hear some thoughts about cost cutting options in the home > stretch. I imagine I'm not the only one struggling with these issues > and I think the conversation would benefit many. Because of where I > am in the build, and the many topics this will span, I think it's best > to break this in to three threads: Interior, Don't install an interior. You can always do that later. > Panel Don't know whether you're planning on full IFR, but you can install a VFR panel and then upgrade to IFR when you have the cash. > and Paint. If you have a hangar to store the completed plane in, then even paint can be delayed. If no hangar, I'd recommend painting it so it withstands the weather better. > Others may want to expand beyond these three, but these are the > areas I have in front of me to consider. The option of taking on a > partner is also something I'm considering, but I want to see things > play out a while longer before I go that route. > > My plan has been to buy a Flightline Interior in leather at a cost of > about $5000. $5000 will go a long way to populate your panel. And you'll be somewhat lighter for it! ;-) > I'm now considering adding the craft of upholstery to the list of > things I've learned while building this plane. For those that have > "rolled your own" interiors, was the raw material cost low enough to > realize some savings? By the time you invest in an industrial sewing machine and toss the 'learning experience' material, I'm not sure that you'd be very far ahead. You'll surely save on the frustration level by contracting that part out. Installing the 'bad' parts will aggravate you each time you lay eyes on it .... and that's true when only you notice!!! Good luck Linn > What are some good resources for headliner, carpet and leather? > What tools are required? What are the best "How To" books to read? > > Up until now, I have had a nice mix of time and money. Now I've got a > surplus of time... money, not so much. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Jeff; I feel your pain, my group at the Corp continues to diminish each month, they announced a 12K headcount reduction within the year and no one is safe, so I have slowed my project waaay down to assure I have funds for that thunderstorm should I get stuck in that layoff. I plan to spend the money on the engine- new one, maybe do what you did and get it on clearance at Sun n Fun, I plan to get the panel I planned on or maybe better as technology allows, , my seats are done locally using a good quality faux leather since my 2 daughters are very young and will test the seats for durability so anything less or more was not acceptable. Everything else is not critical to my mission and can be done to a minimum. I'll paint the interior with a decent paint and deal with better later, outside will probably get painted like Tim did since it will be far easier time and financially to do it in pieces than after completion in a pro shop. I'll take my time doing all this as it will cost money to park the plane in a hangar, pay California taxes and of course all those trips for the family as Tim has teased us all with these last three years once the plane is completed, THAT will far outdo any spending I am doing now. The good news for me is by my saving for the thunderstorm, if it dissipates before hitting me I'll have the funds to finish and afford flying the plane, so time is a good thing. Be patient and work on the plane, delay the major purchases as long as possible, and get the panel you want that too will cost more to replace and redo later than just doing it right the first time. Best of success with whatever you decide to do. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 1:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior > > With the downturn in the economy (my business, a commercial printing > company, is down 40%) I'm having to rethink my RV-10 plans and would love > to hear some thoughts about cost cutting options in the home stretch. I > imagine I'm not the only one struggling with these issues and I think the > conversation would benefit many. Because of where I am in the build, and > the many topics this will span, I think it's best to break this in to > three threads: Interior, Panel and Paint. Others may want to expand > beyond these three, but these are the areas I have in front of me to > consider. The option of taking on a partner is also something I'm > considering, but I want to see things play out a while longer before I go > that route. > > My plan has been to buy a Flightline Interior in leather at a cost of > about $5000. I'm now considering adding the craft of upholstery to the > list of things I've learned while building this plane. For those that > have "rolled your own" interiors, was the raw material cost low enough to > realize some savings? What are some good resources for headliner, carpet > and leather? What tools are required? What are the best "How To" books > to read? > > Up until now, I have had a nice mix of time and money. Now I've got a > surplus of time... money, not so much. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF (reserved) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally
Date: Feb 07, 2009
People that visit the shop now say:1) Hey how big are those tire gonna be?2 ) Are ya goin to a monster truck rally?3) You musta spend time at a boat ya rd.4) How ya gonna get that thing outa here?This is 33" off the ground at t he belly...it is level fore and aft and side to side. Only took a few hours and all the wood around the property that I could find. Tried to move the engine crate from the storage container to the shop=2C but the fork lift go t stuck in the gravel=2C we had to pull it out with the F250. Just another day=2C not much accomplished.Just having a little funThe last shot is a pic ture of my teeth after propping the plane up today=2C I was cleanching! 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January 27, 2009 - February 07, 2009

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ee