RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eg

February 07, 2009 - February 19, 2009



      I don't remember any calibration, but there is a pitch offset.  I don't have
      my manual here, but will try to look it up tomorrow.  I think I am using 5
      degrees.  Figured it out by trial and error during my test phase last year.
      
      Rene'
      801-721-6080
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration...
How do I adjust the pitch and roll calibration of the AHRS on the Grand Rapids EFIS HX AHRS? I go into the AHRS Maintenance page and find the Pitch and Roll numbers for AHRS 1 and for AHRS 2, but when I select "Change", but none of the numbers are adjustable. I mounted my dual AHRS as level as I possibly could, but there's no way a mere mortal such as myself could possible get it perfect. Surely you are allowed to dial in the pitch and roll attitudes........? Thanks for the help! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration...
Date: Feb 07, 2009
Went and looked it up on line. Go to the Primary Flight Display Setting, Pitch Ladder Offset. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 9:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration... How do I adjust the pitch and roll calibration of the AHRS on the Grand Rapids EFIS HX AHRS? I go into the AHRS Maintenance page and find the Pitch and Roll numbers for AHRS 1 and for AHRS 2, but when I select "Change", but none of the numbers are adjustable. I mounted my dual AHRS as level as I possibly could, but there's no way a mere mortal such as myself could possible get it perfect. Surely you are allowed to dial in the pitch and roll attitudes........? Thanks for the help! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally
You guys are making me feel bad.- I built a craddle to hold the fuselage and emppage, then to install the legs, I just rolled it outside and picked it up with a forklift.... done.. Don McDonald --- On Sat, 2/7/09, John Gonzalez wrote: From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Subject: RV10-List: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally Date: Saturday, February 7, 2009, 8:16 PM #yiv2534827 .hmmessage P { margin:0px;padding:0px;} #yiv2534827 { font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;} People that visit the shop now say: 1) Hey how big are those tire gonna be? 2) Are ya goin to a monster truck rally? 3) You musta spend time at a boat yard. 4) How ya gonna get that thing outa here? This is 33" off the ground at the belly...it is level fore and aft and side to side. Only took a few hours and all the wood around the property that I could find. Tried to move the engine crate from the storage container to t he shop, but the fork lift got stuck in the gravel, we had to pull it out w ith the F250. Just another day, not much accomplished. Just having a little fun The last shot is a picture of my teeth after propping the plane up today, I was cleanching! Just a little nervous! John G.=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 08, 2009
I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior
Date: Feb 08, 2009
How about using a mid time engine? You can take at least half off the price of a new one and still have 1000 hours of flight time. I have a nice one available for $14k with under 1000 hours SMOH if anybody is interested. Email for details. Cheers... Evan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 1:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Interior > > With the downturn in the economy (my business, a commercial printing > company, is down 40%) I'm having to rethink my RV-10 plans and would love > to hear some thoughts about cost cutting options in the home stretch. I > imagine I'm not the only one struggling with these issues and I think the > conversation would benefit many. Because of where I am in the build, and > the many topics this will span, I think it's best to break this in to > three threads: Interior, Panel and Paint. Others may want to expand > beyond these three, but these are the areas I have in front of me to > consider. The option of taking on a partner is also something I'm > considering, but I want to see things play out a while longer before I go > that route. > > My plan has been to buy a Flightline Interior in leather at a cost of > about $5000. I'm now considering adding the craft of upholstery to the > list of things I've learned while building this plane. For those that > have "rolled your own" interiors, was the raw material cost low enough to > realize some savings? What are some good resources for headliner, carpet > and leather? What tools are required? What are the best "How To" books > to read? > > Up until now, I have had a nice mix of time and money. Now I've got a > surplus of time... money, not so much. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF (reserved) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nate Lewis" <nlewis(at)wildblue.net>
Subject: parts to omit from kit?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
delurking, and hello folks - I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a flight, and come home with the emp kit. The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, and dozens of items in the remaining kits. I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at order time? Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Schulz" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 08, 2009
I would take one. Mike Schulz Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC 4878 Edgewater Drive Mound, MN 55364 612-590-8604 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: parts to omit from kit?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
My only recommendation is to go to Tim's site and look at the list of things not included in the kit and at the mods. Also, there are a hand full of after market parts that would save you some time and effort. I did not buy any for the emp and wings. I did buy the door pins and flush door handles. http://www.myrv10.com/tips/index.html Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nate Lewis Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 9:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? delurking, and hello folks - I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a flight, and come home with the emp kit. The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, and dozens of items in the remaining kits. I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at order time? Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: parts to omit from kit?
Hey Nate, first tell us where you are?- Lot's of us have extra parts, and someone close to you could get together with you and give you a really goo d breakdown of what you could delete, and what you need in addition.- I d id delete quite a few things from the later kit segments, but I also sent q uite a few things back to Van's.... enough little items to pay for my seat belts. One thing is certain, buy more #6 and #8 nutplates. --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Nate Lewis wrote: From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 8:24 AM delurking, and hello folks - I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a flight, and come home with the emp kit. The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wonderin g: is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the win gs, and dozens of items in the remaining kits. I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, b ut I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advic e at order time? Thanks! =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Hey John. You might want to look up the chapter on the gear fairings and wheel pants while the plane is on jacks and level. Might save you some time and angst getting them aligned now. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229212#229212 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Up on its' gear
I put mine on top of a 34" workbench yesterday and that is clearly be high enough to install the gear legs and the wheels. I used my HF engine hoist to lift the fuse on the table. Worked very well. Bill John Gonzalez wrote: > Can someone give me a measurement of how high the fuse bottom is off > the ground while the plane is on it's gear. > > I need to barrow a pallet jack to raise my fuse holder off the ground > and I want to barrow it and return it in the same day. > > Thanks, > > JOhn G. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Feb 08, 2009
The problem I had with the parking brake valve is where it is, not how it is mounted. It is really difficult to bend up under the panel to remove or install it after everything is finished. I even took the seat out. I decided it was not worth the effort to put it back. I haven't had a need for it anyway. Kevin Belue Sent from my iPhone On Feb 7, 2009, at 5:59 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > > Did you have the PVPV-1 or PVPV-D? > > I just ordered a PV-2 yesterday from Van's, which I believe is the > PVPV-D. > > Just curious..... > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue > Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 11:43 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake > > > Yes, I was thinking it would be easy to repair, but after the pain of > getting to it and removing it, I decided to not go through that again > and left it out. It is really in a difficult place to access once > everything is finished. I mounted mine the same as most of you did- in > place of the bracket that holds the brake lines to the firewall. I > hope you guys have better luck than I did. > > Kevin Belue > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Feb 6, 2009, at 9:49 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > >> >> Wow, That's news, I wonder if others have also had the same problem? >> Looking at the parts diagram it looks like you should be able to >> replace the 3 O-rings fairly easily.http://matco.veracart.com/pdf/ >> mastercylinder23a.pdf >> I wonder if you could get the Vitron O-rings this size? >> >> Deems >> >> >> Kevin Belue wrote: >>> >>> I installed the Matco parking brake in my RV10 and it didn't leak >>> until I started using my brakes for engine runup. Then it started >>> leaking out of the valve (not the fittings), so I removed it. >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nate Lewis" <nlewis(at)wildblue.net>
Subject: Re: parts to omit from kit?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Thanks - I'm near Monroe, WA, northeast of Seattle. I'd love to meet any local -10 builders :) ----- Original Message ----- From: Don McDonald To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? Hey Nate, first tell us where you are? Lot's of us have extra parts, and someone close to you could get together with you and give you a really good breakdown of what you could delete, and what you need in addition. I did delete quite a few things from the later kit segments, but I also sent quite a few things back to Van's.... enough little items to pay for my seat belts. One thing is certain, buy more #6 and #8 nutplates. --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Nate Lewis wrote: From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 8:24 AM delurking, and hello folks - I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a flight, and come home with the emp kit. The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, and dozens of items in the remaining kits. I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at order time? Thanks! 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nate Lewis" <nlewis(at)wildblue.net>
Subject: Re: parts to omit from kit?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Thanks - I'm near Monroe, WA, northeast of Seattle. I'd love to meet any local -10 builders :) ----- Original Message ----- From: Don McDonald To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? Hey Nate, first tell us where you are? Lot's of us have extra parts, and someone close to you could get together with you and give you a really good breakdown of what you could delete, and what you need in addition. I did delete quite a few things from the later kit segments, but I also sent quite a few things back to Van's.... enough little items to pay for my seat belts. One thing is certain, buy more #6 and #8 nutplates. --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Nate Lewis wrote: From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 8:24 AM delurking, and hello folks - I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a flight, and come home with the emp kit. The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, and dozens of items in the remaining kits. I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at order time? Thanks! 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Mike, Nice talking with you on the phone. As discussed, please send a check for $300. After I ship it I'll send you a note on whatever the balance is for actual shipping cost. Carl Froehlich 40 Beechcraft Court Fredericksburg, Virginia 22405 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Schulz Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 11:35 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I would take one. Mike Schulz Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC 4878 Edgewater Drive Mound, MN 55364 612-590-8604 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: countersink doubler or wing skin?
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Quick question here: I've finished match drilling top wing skins to the ribs, time to countersink the area associated with the doublers. The instructions seem to suggest that it is the top skin that is machine countersunk, but the archives hold a couple of posts suggesting that the builders countersunk the doubler and dimpled the wing skin. It seems to me that either would work - What say ye all? -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229227#229227 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: countersink doubler or wing skin?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
when given the chance countersink the middle piece and dimple the top piece, with that said I think I countersunk the skins per the plans, but not knowing the section/step I can not be certain. The top is being held with the head of the rivet then bottom is being stretched, per se, by the shop head as the pressure is applied and flattened, I think I would chose the top that has the head pushing it down over the piece that is "holding it". Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 11:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: countersink doubler or wing skin? > > Quick question here: I've finished match drilling top wing skins to the > ribs, time to countersink the area associated with the doublers. The > instructions seem to suggest that it is the top skin that is machine > countersunk, but the archives hold a couple of posts suggesting that the > builders countersunk the doubler and dimpled the wing skin. It seems to me > that either would work - What say ye all? > > -------- > Andy Turner > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229227#229227 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally
Date: Feb 08, 2009
That is where i am going with it. Then wheels off and the gear remains for the engine and cowl. Engine is now next to the plane=2C lots of ply wood be neath the forklift so it could get down to the basement and back up the hil l. Engine and plane appear to be getting along quite well.Thanks=2CJOhn> Su bject: RV10-List: Re: Getting ready for the Monster Plane rally> From: Mike abel(at)Pacbell.net> Date: Sun=2C 8 Feb 2009 09:19:19 -0800> To: rv10-list@mat net>> > Hey John. You might want to look up the chapter on the gear fairing s and wheel pants while the plane is on jacks and level. Might save you som e time and angst getting them aligned now.> > --------> OSH '08 or Bust (bu sted) be there in "=3B09> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF> > > > > Read this t opic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229212#2 ===================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: parts to omit from kit?
Might as well buy an extra pair of trim tab skins as well. Some get them okay in 2 tries, some take 3. Not sure which category I will fit in, but not the perfect on first try group. ;-( Note, if you are thinking driving to the factory for your demo and purchasing emp kit to bring home, I don't know whether they have any kits crated ready to go...normally take a few days to ship them out. Also, takes a full size pickup with 49" between wheel wells and 8 ft bed with tailgate down. Their web site crate size is wrong, as they have gone from 2 crates to a single, wider crate. F150 and Dodge Ram are okay. Don't know about Chevy. Not to mention the box is around 300lbs. Don McDonald wrote: > Hey Nate, first tell us where you are? Lot's of us have extra parts, > and someone close to you could get together with you and give you a > really good breakdown of what you could delete, and what you need in > addition. I did delete quite a few things from the later kit > segments, but I also sent quite a few things back to Van's.... enough > little items to pay for my seat belts. > One thing is certain, buy more #6 and #8 nutplates. > > --- On *Sun, 2/8/09, Nate Lewis //* wrote: > > From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> > Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 8:24 AM > > > > delurking, and hello folks - > > I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a > flight, and come home with the emp kit. > > The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: > is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in > favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's > nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, > and dozens of items in the remaining kits. > > I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but > I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so > I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) > > I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and > beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at > order time? > > Thanks! > > > > > > * > > > * -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Standing In Backup in the event either sale falls through. John Cox Oregon ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sun 2/8/2009 11:44 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale Mike, Nice talking with you on the phone. As discussed, please send a check for $300. After I ship it I'll send you a note on whatever the balance is for actual shipping cost. Carl Froehlich 40 Beechcraft Court Fredericksburg, Virginia 22405 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Schulz Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 11:35 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I would take one. Mike Schulz Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC 4878 Edgewater Drive Mound, MN 55364 612-590-8604 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Parking brake
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 08, 2009
" no place for the expanded fluid to go. This happened with solid lines, so if you have flexible ones you might be OK. Someone with too much time on there hands could calculate the expansion volume and let us know. " Actually, this is backwards. When it gets hot, the fluid expands, but the aluminum lines and brake cylinders expand even more! So theoretically you might have a problem going hot to cold. Which is exactly what happens if you set the brake after landing - some of the brake heat will make its way to the brake cylinders, and later they will cool down. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229263#229263 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron rigging - Reflex ?
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Deems: I use the flaps in trail or 1st position down with the prepositioning switch mod for takeoff and again entering downwind. The limiting airspeeds are in section 5 of the text. As you get used to the airplane you can definitely feel the effect of the flaps moving into or out of the reflex or full up position. Dick Sipp N110DV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 7:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron rigging - Reflex ? > > I have the flaps and ailerons mounted to the wing and the wing is attached > to the fuse. (I don't have the wing tips on yet). It's pretty straight > forward to align the ailerons with the trailing edges of each flap. > However, I recall somewhere seeing/hearing about a 'reflex' position where > the ailerons were rigged 'up' 2-3 degrees on each side. IIRC correctly > this increased performance. What's the experience/advice from those who > are flying? > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....and it's almost put together.....' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron rigging - Reflex ?
Thanks Dick, what I was missing is that when the flaps are fully retracted they are in the 'Reflex' position. I'm going to mount the wing tips tomorrow, and then I'll 'final' rig the ailerons. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ r > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Subject: Re: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
From: Jay Wik <jaycwik(at)gmail.com>
Car, I'll take one off your hands. Jay Wik 16888 River Oaks Blvd Fergus Falls, MN 56537 218-205-5742 I can send you a check if you like... let me know. Jay (bld #40536) On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 8:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrot e: > I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for > a friend's project. > http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html > > > We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from > Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping ' half of what > I paid. > > > Carl Froehlich > > 540 371-8482 > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2009
Subject: Re: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
From: Jay Wik <jaycwik(at)gmail.com>
Looks like I was too slow On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Jay Wik wrote: > Car, I'll take one off your hands. > > Jay Wik > 16888 River Oaks Blvd > Fergus Falls, MN 56537 > 218-205-5742 > > > I can send you a check if you like... let me know. > > Jay (bld #40536) > > > On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 8:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wr ote: > >> I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and fo r >> a friend's project. >> http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html >> >> >> >> We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received fro m >> Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping ' half of what >> I paid. >> >> >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> 540 371-8482 >> >> * >> =========== =========== =========== =========== >> * >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: computer simulation of paint scheme
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different angles. I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but it w as a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half the cost of actual painting the plane. Thanks=2C JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve" <steveg(at)redmondair.com>
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 09, 2009
For any of you that did not get an overhead console, here is a document you might be interested in. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Wik Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 7:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale Looks like I was too slow On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Jay Wik wrote: Car, I'll take one off your hands. Jay Wik 16888 River Oaks Blvd Fergus Falls, MN 56537 218-205-5742 I can send you a check if you like... let me know. Jay (bld #40536) On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 8:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote: I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
I hate paying someone else to do what I can do for free. The simplest thing I've found is to import a 3-view into your favorite paint program. You can even cut and paste from a flying example picture. I don't need to rotate in 3-D to picture the results. You'll fine-tune the picture when you lay it out on the airplane to shoot paint. It was easier years ago when mostly straight lines prevailed, but now the 'swoosh' style is prevalent and will make drawing the lines a little more difficult. Once you have the lines drawn, however using the 'fill' tool makes it really easy to change colors. Linn John Gonzalez wrote: > Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that > allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different > angles. > > I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but > it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half > the cost of actual painting the plane. > > Thanks, > > JOhn G. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: computer simulation of paint scheme
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Thanks Linn=2C So what is your favorite paint program? JOhn> Date: Mon=2C 9 Feb 2009 10:45:52 -0500> From: pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.n et> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: computer simulatio ilot(at)bellsouth.net>> > I hate paying someone else to do what I can do for f ree. The simplest > thing I've found is to import a 3-view into your favori te paint > program. You can even cut and paste from a flying example pictur e. I > don't need to rotate in 3-D to picture the results. You'll fine-tune > the picture when you lay it out on the airplane to shoot paint. It was > easier years ago when mostly straight lines prevailed=2C but now the > 'sw oosh' style is prevalent and will make drawing the lines a little > more di fficult. Once you have the lines drawn=2C however using the 'fill' > tool m akes it really easy to change colors.> Linn> > John Gonzalez wrote:> > Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that > > allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different > > angles.> > > > I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service bu t > > it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half > > the cost of actual painting the plane.> > > > Thanks=2C> > > > JOhn G.> ====================> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: computer simulation of paint scheme
Date: Feb 09, 2009
I used x-plane.........but it is not real easy.......but it is cool to see it flying..... Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 8:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme I hate paying someone else to do what I can do for free. The simplest thing I've found is to import a 3-view into your favorite paint program. You can even cut and paste from a flying example picture. I don't need to rotate in 3-D to picture the results. You'll fine-tune the picture when you lay it out on the airplane to shoot paint. It was easier years ago when mostly straight lines prevailed, but now the 'swoosh' style is prevalent and will make drawing the lines a little more difficult. Once you have the lines drawn, however using the 'fill' tool makes it really easy to change colors. Linn John Gonzalez wrote: > Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that > allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different > angles. > > I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but > it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half > the cost of actual painting the plane. > > Thanks, > > JOhn G. > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
Date: Feb 09, 2009
this is the company you mention but they also have a tool one can use. http://www.aircraftpaintschemes.com/linedraw_details_guest.asp?AircraftID =385 P From: John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 7:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different angles. I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half the cost of actual painting the plane. Thanks, JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com>
GIMP is a great full featured open source image editing tool http://www.gimp.org/ On Mon, Feb 9, 2009 at 11:17 AM, Rene Felker wrote: > > I used x-plane.........but it is not real easy.......but it is cool to see > it flying..... > > Rene' Felker > RV-10 N423CF Flying > 801-721-6080 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters > Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 8:46 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme > > > I hate paying someone else to do what I can do for free. The simplest > thing I've found is to import a 3-view into your favorite paint > program. You can even cut and paste from a flying example picture. I > don't need to rotate in 3-D to picture the results. You'll fine-tune > the picture when you lay it out on the airplane to shoot paint. It was > easier years ago when mostly straight lines prevailed, but now the > 'swoosh' style is prevalent and will make drawing the lines a little > more difficult. Once you have the lines drawn, however using the 'fill' > tool makes it really easy to change colors. > Linn > > John Gonzalez wrote: >> Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that >> allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different >> angles. >> >> I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but >> it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half >> the cost of actual painting the plane. >> >> Thanks, >> >> JOhn G. >> * >> >> >> * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: computer simulation of paint scheme
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
John, I labored a lot over the paint scheme. In fact the plane is in paint now and I still think I should have gone a completely different direction. It can make one nuts. Early in the process I drew a blank outline of an RV-10 and posted it online including downloadable versions in .ai, .eps and .jpg forms. I started with a lot of hand drawings then with the illustrator file you can make a clipping mask and use the various illustrator tools to add color, designs, N numbers. Basically anything you can think of to prevent you from actually building the plane. Good luck, Robin Downloadable files: http://www.painttheweb.com/rv10/index.aspx end result: http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 7:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different angles. I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half the cost of actual painting the plane. Thanks, JOhn G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/08/09
From: Len Aune <Len_Aune(at)bcit.ca>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
dG8gQ2hhbmdlIGluIEVjb25vbXkgY2hhbmdlIGluIHBsYW5zDQoNCkkgd2FzIGFibGUgdG8gZmlu ZCBhbiBhaXJjcmFmdCBvdmVyaGF1bCBmYWNpbGl0eSB0aGF0IHJlZ3VsYXJseSBkaWQgcGFpbnQN CnByb2plY3RzIG9uIDc1NyBhbmQgNzM3IGFpcmNyYWZ0LiAgVGhleSB0eXBpY2FsbHkgdXNlZCBh bHVtYSBncmlwIHBhaW50IGFuZA0Kb2Z0ZW4gb3Zlci1lc3RpbWF0ZWQgZm9yIGEgbGFyZ2Ugam9i LiAgVGhpcyB0ZW5kcyB0byBrZWVwIHRoZSBzdG9jayBvZg0KdW51c2VkIHBhaW50IHF1aXRlIGZ1 bGwuICBUaGUgY3VzdG9tZXIgcGF5cyBmb3IgaXQgYW5kIHRoZXkga2VlcCB0aGUgZXh0cmEuDQpU aGV5IG1pZ2h0IGJlIHdpbGxpbmcgdG8gcGFydCB3aXRoIHNvbWUgb2YgdGhpcyBzdXJwbHVzIGlm IHlvdSB0YWxrZWQgbmljZS4NCkkgZ290IHRocmVlIGdhbGxvbnMgb2YgbWF0dGVyaG9ybiB3aGl0 ZSBhbmQgaXQgdHVybmVkIG91dCBncmVhdC4NCg0KDQoNCkxlbm9yZCBBdW5lDQo0MDM4MSAgRmx5 aW5nIGluIENhbmFkYQ0K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewall insulation
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
I recall seeing a website of aft-side firewall insulation templates that someone was selling. Does anyone have that info handy? Guess I could crawl around under there, but it might be easier to cut using a template. The path of least resistance would be to could use spray adhesive to attach insulation, but that's a permanent solution that wouldn't allow future inspection. What other options are there? I have several yards of insulation received from Abby @ Flightline Interiors. http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp Thanks, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229369#229369 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
My database has almost every painted RV-10 in the world in it. http://www. schemedesigners.com/ is by far the largest producer of aircraft schemes use d by paint shops applying the creation of two dimensional graphics to a thr ee dimentional object. Craig Barnett does presentation at OSH each year an d has a pallet of airline, certified production aircraft and kitbuilds to h is credit. Wayne Edgerton, the late Mark Ritter, Scott Schmidt and of course Mark Cham berlain are great resources for striking original paint schemes which quick ly get ripped off by copy artists - as direct and identical clones. Someti mes it goes right down to the exact paint colors and break lines in the lay out, which may have been copyrighted by the designer/client. However, computer simulation is different than those of the static two or t hree view graphics in a flat document. The computer simulation makes for a n exciting question indeed. My favorite scheme done by Craig is N900EM on an Embraer corporate jet out of Vegas. It utilized the natural flow lines of the three dimensional object, complementary colors and striking graphic s which denote speed, beauty and elegance in one final product - whether it is sitting "Static on the Ramp" at night or "On the Perch at V1" for lifto ff. Neil Colliver has none a unique job has have the Russians, the Poles and n ow Dan Benua with #40001 (IMHO). I will continue reading with interest the answers on simulation program. That bar continues to raise higher with mo re beautiful products arriving weekly. John Cox From: pascal Sent: Mon 2/9/2009 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme this is the company you mention but they also have a tool one can use. http ://www.aircraftpaintschemes.com/linedraw_details_guest.asp?AircraftID=385 P From: John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 7:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different angles. I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service but it w as a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half the cost of actual painting the plane. Thanks, JOhn G. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
I found a guy who designed my Lancair (the RV is next) (no charge) and painted the plane to perfection (he's been painting aircraft - large & small, for 20 years). He's in Colorado, but travels around (and he's reasonable). Tom 970-420-1798 The painter is: Arden Fisher 970-692-4881 ____________________________________________________________ Look your best with great tanning options. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1onOCG4uPyAw8dx06xeyuESfKmsjeHz5TcvOXXQHVknMnik/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Change in Economy... Change in Plans... Panel
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
I'd add, if you're truly going vfr for now with an SL-40, leave out the audio panel, too, to save $2K (you don't have any radios to switch!). Buy (or build) a portable intercom for now. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229387#229387 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insurance comparison...what's your opinion
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
You want to be a little careful with "backing down the hull value". Remember, if the insurance company pays out this amount, they then own the aircraft.To make up an extreme example, suppose you declare the hull value at $50K. You then damage both wings, and you think you can fix it for $30K. But the insurance company has the option to declare the plane a total loss, and pay you $50K. They then own the airplane, and can sell the engine, radios, etc., to recoup their loss. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229389#229389 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
As I picked up two OEM Cleveland Brake Discs at Vans this morning (ouch), I asked what the latest RV-10 order was. Patrick Kelly just committed to kit #40937. I had such high hopes for kit #1,000 sold before OSH '09 and seeing Tim lead a formation of Ten RV-10s over the field as the rest of us look up from RV parking or elsewhere. John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
Robin, I love the Lancair and I'm building a second one (Lancair ES), but I'm looking at buying an RV-10 kit next. Tom ____________________________________________________________ There's only one Club Med. Click now for great getaway package deals! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw3JB3hDSlB9KFsJ0VBQ54wjXY4M38CN9cvV7AvZAkiocWmI0/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall insulation
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
I bought some of the stuff from Abbey and used it wit Super 77 adhesive. (Be aware that I am Not flying yet). Just make some cardboard templates and cut away. I am not too worried about inspecting the firewall as it is a piece of monolithic SS and is not as subject to cracking like the aluminum. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229406#229406 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
John Gonzalez wrote: > Thanks Linn, > > So what is your favorite paint program? Photoimpact ..... came bundled with a camera long ago. Almost any digital camera has a paint program bundled with it. Linn > > JOhn > > > Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 10:45:52 -0500 > > From: pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: computer simulation of paint scheme > > > > > > > I hate paying someone else to do what I can do for free. The simplest > > thing I've found is to import a 3-view into your favorite paint > > program. You can even cut and paste from a flying example picture. I > > don't need to rotate in 3-D to picture the results. You'll fine-tune > > the picture when you lay it out on the airplane to shoot paint. It was > > easier years ago when mostly straight lines prevailed, but now the > > 'swoosh' style is prevalent and will make drawing the lines a little > > more difficult. Once you have the lines drawn, however using the 'fill' > > tool makes it really easy to change colors. > > Linn > > > > John Gonzalez wrote: > > > Does anyone know of a service or program that is user friendly that > > > allows one to play with their paint scheme and see it from different > > > angles. > > > > > > I remember reading something in our magazines about such a service > but > > > it was a paint scheme designer and their consultaion was about half > > > the cost of actual painting the plane. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > JOhn G. > > > * > > >==================== > > _==== > > > > > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale - SOLD
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Both overhead consoles are sold. Carl From: Carl Froehlich [mailto:carl.froehlich(at)cox.net] Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 9:49 AM Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 09, 2009
Photoimpact is my favorite image editor. I use it a lot. It's very capable and much more intuitive than adobe photoshop. I've seen some commercial airplane paintscheme software somewhere online. You'll find it on google. It was pretty inexpensive. Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229447#229447 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Firewall insulation
Jay, I used hi-temp RTV for adhesive.=C2- Just dabs in the corners and a few i n the middle is enough. If you can get the firewall=C2-material in the ballpark size-wise, hold i t up to the area you want to install it and press along the bulkheads and s upports.=C2- Run your hands along those areas a few times and you will ge t a light impression in the foil.=C2- Get a medium point Sharpie (not fin e-tip as it goes right through the foil)=C2-and mark the impressions, the n cut. Hope this helps. Sean Blair (observation deck) ----- Original Message ----- From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, February 9, 2009 10:13:46 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: RV10-List: Firewall insulation I recall seeing a website of aft-side firewall insulation templates that so meone was selling. Does anyone have that info handy? Guess I could crawl ar ound under there, but it might be easier to cut using a template. The path of least resistance would be to could use spray adhesive to attach insulation, but that's a permanent solution that wouldn't allow future ins pection. What other options are there? I have several yards of insulation received from Abby @ Flightline Interior s. http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp Thanks, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229369#229369 =========== =========== MS - =========== e - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <n520tx(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 09, 2009
As Neil says, it's a surprising amount of work. Some find it very satisfying, others not so much - it's not everyones cup of tea. For anyone who wants to get their feet wet, there are several *free* clinics held at various places throughout the country each year. The next one is mid April in the Atlanta area. These are tailored toward the total newbies and in my opinion worth ever penny and more. At the very least, you'll get to ride left seat while an experienced pilot is right/back seat to take you through what the picture and action is like up close. Food for thought. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil & Sarah Colliver" <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 3:07 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dreams of 1,000 > > I'll do my best to join any formation for 2010 at Osh. I did some air to > air pics with a very skilled pilot, and was simply amazed at how much > work it was as 110 knots in still air. I have a lot of respect for those > aerobatic formations now. But if we're going to do it, I'll get the > training. > > Neil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall insulation
Jay, -What I did was to put 4 nut plates around the firewall on each side to h old the insulation from moving. Use a large washer and screw to hold it and if you need to remove it you can without tearing things up. Patrick Thyssen Will fly one day. --- On Mon, 2/9/09, jayb wrote: From: jayb <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV10-List: Firewall insulation Date: Monday, February 9, 2009, 11:13 AM I recall seeing a website of aft-side firewall insulation templates that someone was selling. Does anyone have that info handy? Guess I could crawl around under there, but it might be easier to cut using a template. The path of least resistance would be to could use spray adhesive to attach insulation, but that's a permanent solution that wouldn't allow future inspection. What other options are there? I have several yards of insulation received from Abby @ Flightline Interior s. http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp Thanks, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229369#229369 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
I'm on thin ice here, but I was of the impression that the enclosed cabin cover, and lack a rearward visibility make the -10 a poor candidate for formation flying/work. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Ron Walker wrote: > > As Neil says, it's a surprising amount of work. Some find it very > satisfying, others not so much - it's not everyones cup of tea. For > anyone who wants to get their feet wet, there are several *free* > clinics held at various places throughout the country each year. The > next one is mid April in the Atlanta area. These are tailored toward > the total newbies and in my opinion worth ever penny and more. > > At the very least, you'll get to ride left seat while an experienced > pilot is right/back seat to take you through what the picture and > action is like up close. > > Food for thought. > > Ron > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil & Sarah Colliver" > > To: > Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 3:07 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dreams of 1,000 > > >> >> I'll do my best to join any formation for 2010 at Osh. I did some >> air to air pics with a very skilled pilot, and was simply amazed at >> how much work it was as 110 knots in still air. I have a lot of >> respect for those aerobatic formations now. But if we're going to do >> it, I'll get the training. >> >> Neil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall insulation
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Thanks for the great tips. Someone sent me a link to here for the templates... http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/Insulation_Templates.html I'm way past needing a variety of templates, so I'll opt for the crawl around method. Any small distracting task is a welcome reprieve from working on the doors or fitting the bottom cowl. Cheers, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229541#229541 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: Len Aune <Len_Aune(at)bcit.ca>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
SSB1c2VkIFBvd2VyIERyYXcgZm9yIHRoZSBNYWMgd2hpY2ggYWxsb3dzIGN1cnZlcyB0byBiZSBt YW5pcHVsYXRlZCBhbmQNCmNvbG91ciBhZGRlZCBlYXNpbHkuICBJIHRoZW4gdXNlZCBhIGNsZWFy IHNoZWV0IG9uIG15IGNvcGllciBmb3IgIGEgYmxhY2sNCmFuZCB3aGl0ZSBpbWFnZSBhbmQgbGlu ZWQgaXQgdXAgb24gdGhlIGFjdHVhbCBhaXJwbGFuZSB1c2luZyBhbiBvdmVyaGVhZA0KcHJvamVj dG9yLiAgV29ya2VkIHNsaWNrIGFzIHNudWZmLiBTYXZlZCBhIGxvdCBvZiBndWVzcyB3b3JrIG9u IHRoZQ0KYWxpZ25tZW50IG9mIHRoZSBsaW5lcyBvdmVyIHRoZSB0b3Agb2YgdGhlIGNvd2wuDQoN Ckxlbm9yZCBBdW5lDQo0MDM4MSBmbHlpbmc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
David McNeill wrote: > > Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty years or > so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with an IFR > clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along (sort of loose > deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When crossing the > Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about 1/2 mile > and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see if he was still > on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 o'clock" and there he was > at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not a bad thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way look at it as just another flying skill. It takes training, practice, and more practice. Formation flying isn't about how close you can get, but how it looks to those on the ground. Spacing is important to have a balanced group of airplanes. I like to fly formation when I'm going places with other airplanes. It makes the trip go faster as I'm intensely focused on that other airplane. Sometimes I get too close for their comfort, and they let me know so I can pick another 'sight picture' further out. I don't call 1/4 mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. ;-) Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Agreed. Its something I could do if I wanted to expend the effort but I don't. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 9:29 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dreams of 1,000 --> David McNeill wrote: > > Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty > years or so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with > an IFR clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along > (sort of loose > deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When crossing > the Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about > 1/2 mile and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see > if he was still on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 > o'clock" and there he was at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not a bad thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way look at it as just another flying skill. It takes training, practice, and more practice. Formation flying isn't about how close you can get, but how it looks to those on the ground. Spacing is important to have a balanced group of airplanes. I like to fly formation when I'm going places with other airplanes. It makes the trip go faster as I'm intensely focused on that other airplane. Sometimes I get too close for their comfort, and they let me know so I can pick another 'sight picture' further out. I don't call 1/4 mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. ;-) Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Linn, personally, I agree with you. I love flying side by side. It makes the time go quicker, and you can have a lot of fun being 50' (or less) away if you're careful. With only 2 planes involved, it isn't such a big problem. Make it 3 and bring them in to less than 50' and you are really changing the amount of workload. Bring them in to 15' and it's nonstop hard work. I really enjoy flying side by side with people. It's some of the best fun I've had, flying with Vic, and with Scott, Stein, and others. But, I definitely realize that while I may have fun with 2 or 3, there's no way without more training, and also TRUST that I'd want to get more involved. Trust is more important and involved than I think people understand until they've been that close. When I did the 3-ship, Josh B, a really REALLY good pilot, was the reason I was able to be that close. It was more his skill than mine. It was harder than it looks in the photo...and it took over a hundred photos to get that one. To me, I don't know that I know 10 RV-10 builders that I can say that I would without a doubt trust to do a 10, or even 5 ship formation. How COULD I know I could trust them. I know that 2 planes together isn't so bad, but I know that 3 is real hard work. The only way I know I could even begin to trust them, or me, is to take training, and then at least prove it enough to have a card in my pocket. Short of that, I don't think I'd be willing to even be a part of a large formation, and I'd seriously question someone's judgement if they thought that I was qualified without carrying the card. I think formation is a blast, and a great way to have fun. I just think that it deserves a lot of respect for training and skill. I would encourage anyone who likes this sort of thing to go for the training...I know I'd love to. Hope they do something up by MSP some day. Oh, and if you're thinking you'll want to do formation, get a throttle quadrant, not push-pulls. From what I hear, you can't really be a part of such things in most groups unless you have a quadrant. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying linn Walters wrote: > > David McNeill wrote: >> >> Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty >> years or >> so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with an IFR >> clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along (sort of loose >> deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When crossing >> the >> Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about 1/2 >> mile >> and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see if he was >> still >> on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 o'clock" and there >> he was >> at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. > Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not a > bad thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way look > at it as just another flying skill. It takes training, practice, and > more practice. Formation flying isn't about how close you can get, but > how it looks to those on the ground. Spacing is important to have a > balanced group of airplanes. I like to fly formation when I'm going > places with other airplanes. It makes the trip go faster as I'm > intensely focused on that other airplane. Sometimes I get too close for > their comfort, and they let me know so I can pick another 'sight > picture' further out. I don't call 1/4 mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. > ;-) > Linn > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Hi everybody, I'm new to the list (I unsubscribed 3 yrs ago after I finished my 7A) and am working on a 10 (#871) here in Independence, OR. I know a few of you here, like Vern Smithand Rob Hickman. I've got some questions. After an early failure of a Tefzel engine ground cable on my 7A, I replaced both cables coming off the battery with #2 welding cable, which I have been very happy with. I plan on utilizing it on the 10 as well. I based my wiring in the 7A on Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) wiring schematic (roughly z-11), on my 7A, including the "forest of ground tabs", which I've also been very pleased with. My 7A has no hums, pops or crackles in my intercom and no electric gremlins have made themselves known yet in 3 years of flying. I love my Sirius music setup! In reviewing Van's wiring plans for the 10, I see that the ground cable from the battery is attached to the airframe near the battery box. Is everyone utilizing single point grounding for all the accessories(?) and if so, where are you mounting those single point grounds and what are you grounding there or not grounding there? And most importantly, are you picking up hums/pops or voodoo transients from strobes etc? I have none of that in my 7A and am hopeful I'm smart enough to wire the 10 so its electrical system is as (electrically) clean as my other plane. Suggestions?? If anyone has photos or diagrams, feel free to load me up with them offline. The other question I have is whether anyone has a wiring diagram that incorporates a G900 system. I'd like some ideas on how it's wired before I cover up some critical areas. Although I'm a pro at drilling out rivets, I just don't dig it. Bob Brown ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Walker" <n520tx(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 10, 2009
> Oh, and if you're > thinking you'll want to do formation, get a throttle > quadrant, not push-pulls. From what I hear, you can't > really be a part of such things in most groups unless > you have a quadrant. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > I have a quadrant in my 7 - but I also know alot of others that don't, they have the normal push/pull throttle cables. The only real 'rule' for formation is that it *not* be a vernier type of cable. Flying close formation is constant throttle adjustments and they have to happen fluidly. Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: OT: Who's going to be the first to cross the Atlantic?
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
http://www.jetlev-flyer.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 11, 2009
I would second the throttle quadrant comment. That was the main thing I noticed when we did our air to air pics. We were so close to the camera ship (a C182) that the photographer used a standard lens. My co- pilot, Dave Philips (who actually flew, and was an instructor for our airforce aerobatics team), was constantly on the throttle. There wasn't a moment it wasn't moving. It was hard work. Each year we get a new aerobatics team, so their training program must work. Dave had never flown an RV10 before, & was instantly at home in it. The airtrainers our airforce uses has the same IO540, so it probably wasn't too great a jump. It was certainly scary being that close! We may not have 10 RV10 flyers with that level of skill now, but given a year and half lead time, & the will power to do it, I'm sure it could be done. Our problem in NZ is finding another RV10 to practice with. Anyone want to bring their's over? On 11/02/2009, at 6:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Linn, personally, I agree with you. I love flying side by side. > It makes the time go quicker, and you can have a lot of fun > being 50' (or less) away if you're careful. With only 2 planes > involved, it isn't such a big problem. Make it 3 and bring > them in to less than 50' and you are really changing the > amount of workload. Bring them in to 15' and it's nonstop > hard work. I really enjoy flying side by side with people. > It's some of the best fun I've had, flying with Vic, and with > Scott, Stein, and others. But, I definitely realize that while > I may have fun with 2 or 3, there's no way without more > training, and also TRUST that I'd want to get more involved. > Trust is more important and involved than I think people > understand until they've been that close. When I did the > 3-ship, Josh B, a really REALLY good pilot, was the reason > I was able to be that close. It was more his skill than mine. > It was harder than it looks in the photo...and it took > over a hundred photos to get that one. To me, I don't know > that I know 10 RV-10 builders that I can say that I would > without a doubt trust to do a 10, or even 5 ship formation. > How COULD I know I could trust them. I know that 2 planes > together isn't so bad, but I know that 3 is real hard work. > The only way I know I could even begin to trust them, or me, > is to take training, and then at least prove it enough to > have a card in my pocket. Short of that, I don't think > I'd be willing to even be a part of a large formation, > and I'd seriously question someone's judgement if they > thought that I was qualified without carrying the card. > I think formation is a blast, and a great way to have fun. > I just think that it deserves a lot of respect for training > and skill. I would encourage anyone who likes this sort of > thing to go for the training...I know I'd love to. Hope > they do something up by MSP some day. Oh, and if you're > thinking you'll want to do formation, get a throttle > quadrant, not push-pulls. From what I hear, you can't > really be a part of such things in most groups unless > you have a quadrant. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > linn Walters wrote: >> > >> David McNeill wrote: >>> >>> Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty >>> years or >>> so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with an IFR >>> clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along (sort >>> of loose >>> deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When >>> crossing the >>> Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about >>> 1/2 mile >>> and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see if he >>> was still >>> on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 o'clock" and >>> there he was >>> at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. >> Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not >> a bad thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way >> look at it as just another flying skill. It takes training, >> practice, and more practice. Formation flying isn't about how >> close you can get, but how it looks to those on the ground. >> Spacing is important to have a balanced group of airplanes. I like >> to fly formation when I'm going places with other airplanes. It >> makes the trip go faster as I'm intensely focused on that other >> airplane. Sometimes I get too close for their comfort, and they >> let me know so I can pick another 'sight picture' further out. I >> don't call 1/4 mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. ;-) >> Linn > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
My thoughts: Tim Olson wrote: > > Linn, personally, I agree with you. I love flying side by side. > It makes the time go quicker, and you can have a lot of fun > being 50' (or less) away if you're careful. With only 2 planes > involved, it isn't such a big problem. Make it 3 and bring > them in to less than 50' and you are really changing the > amount of workload. Bring them in to 15' and it's nonstop > hard work. For most planes 15' puts your wing inside the 'lead' wing, and to look good that close, you're forward of his tail. That isn't a good spot. To be safe, you need to have a clear path ahead and sideways so that if you're 'lead' has a problem, rapid slowing or rapid turn you don't collide. > I really enjoy flying side by side with people. > It's some of the best fun I've had, flying with Vic, and with > Scott, Stein, and others. But, I definitely realize that while > I may have fun with 2 or 3, there's no way without more > training, and also TRUST that I'd want to get more involved. > Trust is more important and involved than I think people > understand until they've been that close. When I did the > 3-ship, Josh B, a really REALLY good pilot, was the reason > I was able to be that close. It was more his skill than mine. > It was harder than it looks in the photo...and it took > over a hundred photos to get that one. To me, I don't know > that I know 10 RV-10 builders that I can say that I would > without a doubt trust to do a 10, or even 5 ship formation. Large formations are really small formations of 4 ship (most common) or 5 ship (rare, I think) > How COULD I know I could trust them. I know that 2 planes > together isn't so bad, but I know that 3 is real hard work. > The only way I know I could even begin to trust them, or me, > is to take training, and then at least prove it enough to > have a card in my pocket. Training is really the first step. The blue card is a 'satisfaction' thing .... proof of a job well done .... kinda like an IFR ticket. > Short of that, I don't think > I'd be willing to even be a part of a large formation, > and I'd seriously question someone's judgement if they > thought that I was qualified without carrying the card. This is really an issue between you and your 'close companion'. I don't have a blue card because there aren't any groups that fly a Pitts or Traumahawk, my two rides at this time, and the safest scenario is to not mix aircraft types. > I think formation is a blast, and a great way to have fun. > I just think that it deserves a lot of respect for training > and skill. Absolutely. There's no safer way to get the experience. > I would encourage anyone who likes this sort of > thing to go for the training...I know I'd love to. I plan on it when my -10 is done. Mike Stewart is near Atlanta and that's probably where I'll get my official training. > Hope > they do something up by MSP some day. Oh, and if you're > thinking you'll want to do formation, get a throttle > quadrant, not push-pulls. From what I hear, you can't > really be a part of such things in most groups unless > you have a quadrant. The problem is the vernier push-pull throttle cables. There is the possibility that you may need full throttle (or idle) instantly and the vernier button is something that may get overlooked in the panic. There's the problem in formation where you're constantly changing throttle and the 'button' keeps you from changing the throttle easily. People flying formation with vernier throttles use a clamp to keep the button pushed, and the clamp isn't easily removed. FWIW, I have some Grumman friends that love to fly formation, and one of the aircraft that flies formation with them .... is an RV-6. Linn > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > linn Walters wrote: >> >> >> David McNeill wrote: >>> >>> Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty >>> years or >>> so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with an IFR >>> clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along (sort of >>> loose >>> deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When >>> crossing the >>> Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about >>> 1/2 mile >>> and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see if he >>> was still >>> on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 o'clock" and >>> there he was >>> at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. >> Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not a >> bad thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way >> look at it as just another flying skill. It takes training, >> practice, and more practice. Formation flying isn't about how close >> you can get, but how it looks to those on the ground. Spacing is >> important to have a balanced group of airplanes. I like to fly >> formation when I'm going places with other airplanes. It makes the >> trip go faster as I'm intensely focused on that other airplane. >> Sometimes I get too close for their comfort, and they let me know so >> I can pick another 'sight picture' further out. I don't call 1/4 >> mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. ;-) >> Linn >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring
Bob and Karen Brown wrote: > > Hi everybody, Im new to the list (I unsubscribed 3 yrs ago after I > finished my 7A) and am working on a 10 (#871) here in Independence, > OR. I know a few of you here, like Vern Smithand Rob Hickman. Ive got > some questions. After an early failure of a Tefzel engine ground cable > on my 7A, I replaced both cables coming off the battery with #2 > welding cable, which I have been very happy with. I plan on utilizing > it on the 10 as well. I based my wiring in the 7A on Nuckolls > (Aeroelectric Connection) wiring schematic (roughly z-11), on my 7A, > including the forest of ground tabs, which Ive also been very > pleased with. My 7A has no hums, pops or crackles in my intercom and > no electric gremlins have made themselves known yet in 3 years of > flying. I love my Sirius music setup! In reviewing Vans wiring plans > for the 10, I see that the ground cable from the battery is attached > to the airframe near the battery box. Is everyone utilizing single > point grounding for all the accessories(?) and if so, where are you > mounting those single point grounds and what are you grounding there > or not grounding there? And most importantly, are you picking up > hums/pops or voodoo transients from strobes etc? I have none of that > in my 7A and am hopeful Im smart enough to wire the 10 so its > electrical system is as (electrically) clean as my other plane. > Suggestions?? > I'll be running a separate ground cable from the battery, through the firewall, and to the engine. From the firewall feed-through I'll run a ground cable to the sub-panel where all my ground wires will terminate. It's the 'ease of cranking' goal, and avoidance of gremlins you're wary of. Poor grounds can really make a bald spot on your head as you scratch while you try to trace down that gremlin!!! ;-) Certified aircraft save money and weight by grounding to the frame, and I've had some limited problems with that route over the years. Linn > > If anyone has photos or diagrams, feel free to load me up with them > offline. The other question I have is whether anyone has a wiring > diagram that incorporates a G900 system. Id like some ideas on how > its wired before I cover up some critical areas. Although Im a pro > at drilling out rivets, I just dont dig it > > Bob Brown > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Pascal, you are absolutely correct on this but it's not new news. It's actually been pointed out a couple times before and is how I knew to swap my rim a couple years ago at OSH before I installed it. You cannot mount the rim and then expect to return it as new. The reason I'm pointing this out is not to be a smart a$$, it's to remind people that all these conversations are archived on the Matronics server and sometimes a simple search can save you some time and $$. Use the tools given to you, if you have any doubt ask the manufacturer and the list first. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up This may be obvious to some but I'll mention this anyway. I received my rim before I knew of the issue of the stem hitting. Upon hearing about it I setup the rim to "test" with the inner tube and tire and inflated to see if I had an issue, I did, so I removed everything and, got an RMA and sent to Matco. I just discovered that unless the rim is brand new and never touched, as George at Matco put it, "like new to put back on shelf" one will be billed $60. so when the shipping is added one is in for about $80 to get the "right" piece. So the lesson learned for me is and Tim nailed it with: > So if you are not to the front wheel install portion yet, it is probably > worth looking into either NOT buying the wheel from Van's, but buying the > proper one direct....or, as soon as you get your brand new nosewheel, call > Matco and get them to swap the half out. The option I would have chosen is to have returned the rim and bought a Grove personally it would have been much less expensive then this experience turned out to be. you'll need to make the decision before hand because once you "test" it you're buying half of a new rim and that simply is not worth it. To be clear Matco is honoring doing the right thing by fixing a complete shortfall on Van's part and I commend them for doing so. I simply would not return a part without knowing it was an issue first. Assume it's an issue and let that decision be your final decision on what you determine is the right course, the valve will work it just needs to have the cap removed to do so. Let my pain be your gain! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Subject: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring
Welcome! As a some others have done, I ran a separate #2 welding cable a ll the way up to the firewall and used a bolt as a pass through and single point ground. I'll ground my forest of tabs and the engine directly to tha t point. It also serves as the airframe ground via the pass through bolt f or any far flung devices like the led nav lights. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring Hi everybody, I'm new to the list (I unsubscribed 3 yrs ago after I finishe d my 7A) and am working on a 10 (#871) here in Independence, OR. I know a few of you here, like Vern Smithand Rob Hickman. I've got some questions. After an early failure of a Tefzel engine ground cable on my 7A, I replace d both cables coming off the battery with #2 welding cable, which I have be en very happy with. I plan on utilizing it on the 10 as well. I based my wiring in the 7A on Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) wiring schematic (ro ughly z-11), on my 7A, including the "forest of ground tabs", which I've al so been very pleased with. My 7A has no hums, pops or crackles in my inter com and no electric gremlins have made themselves known yet in 3 years of f lying. I love my Sirius music setup! In reviewing Van's wiring plans for the 10, I see that the ground cable from the battery is attached to the air frame near the battery box. Is everyone utilizing single point grounding f or all the accessories(?) and if so, where are you mounting those single po int grounds and what are you grounding there or not grounding there? And m ost importantly, are you picking up hums/pops or voodoo transients from str obes etc? I have none of that in my 7A and am hopeful I'm smart enough to wire the 10 so its electrical system is as (electrically) clean as my other plane. Suggestions?? If anyone has photos or diagrams, feel free to loa d me up with them offline. The other question I have is whether anyone has a wiring diagram that incorporates a G900 system. I'd like some ideas on how it's wired before I cover up some critical areas. Although I'm a pro a t drilling out rivets, I just don't dig it... Bob Brown ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 10, 2009
FYI, my regular Vans supplied nose wheel works great. I am in annual right now and just changed the axle. The stem is close, but does not contact. Also, I used the newer, thicker, spacers from Vans when I built up the wheel. When I took them off it looked like there was some evidence rotation. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 3:23 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Pascal, you are absolutely correct on this but it's not new news. It's actually been pointed out a couple times before and is how I knew to swap my rim a couple years ago at OSH before I installed it. You cannot mount the rim and then expect to return it as new. The reason I'm pointing this out is not to be a smart a$$, it's to remind people that all these conversations are archived on the Matronics server and sometimes a simple search can save you some time and $$. Use the tools given to you, if you have any doubt ask the manufacturer and the list first. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up This may be obvious to some but I'll mention this anyway. I received my rim before I knew of the issue of the stem hitting. Upon hearing about it I setup the rim to "test" with the inner tube and tire and inflated to see if I had an issue, I did, so I removed everything and, got an RMA and sent to Matco. I just discovered that unless the rim is brand new and never touched, as George at Matco put it, "like new to put back on shelf" one will be billed $60. so when the shipping is added one is in for about $80 to get the "right" piece. So the lesson learned for me is and Tim nailed it with: > So if you are not to the front wheel install portion yet, it is probably > worth looking into either NOT buying the wheel from Van's, but buying the > proper one direct....or, as soon as you get your brand new nosewheel, call > Matco and get them to swap the half out. The option I would have chosen is to have returned the rim and bought a Grove personally it would have been much less expensive then this experience turned out to be. you'll need to make the decision before hand because once you "test" it you're buying half of a new rim and that simply is not worth it. To be clear Matco is honoring doing the right thing by fixing a complete shortfall on Van's part and I commend them for doing so. I simply would not return a part without knowing it was an issue first. Assume it's an issue and let that decision be your final decision on what you determine is the right course, the valve will work it just needs to have the cap removed to do so. Let my pain be your gain! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring
My preference is to run a ground wire out to the extremities instead of using airframe ground. Current flow along with a little moisture and the connection points will start to corrode where you have dissimilar metals. Spraying the airframe ground connection points with something like Boeshield cuts down on the moisture problem, but it won't go away entirely. Your maintenance time down the road should be a consideration. Linn RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > Welcome! As a some others have done, I ran a separate #2 welding cable > all the way up to the firewall and used a bolt as a pass through and > single point ground. Ill ground my forest of tabs and the engine > directly to that point. It also serves as the airframe ground via the > pass through bolt for any far flung devices like the led nav lights. > > Michael > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob and > Karen Brown > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:37 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Hi everyone, a newbie with a question on wiring > > Hi everybody, Im new to the list (I unsubscribed 3 yrs ago after I > finished my 7A) and am working on a 10 (#871) here in Independence, > OR. I know a few of you here, like Vern Smithand Rob Hickman. Ive got > some questions. After an early failure of a Tefzel engine ground cable > on my 7A, I replaced both cables coming off the battery with #2 > welding cable, which I have been very happy with. I plan on utilizing > it on the 10 as well. I based my wiring in the 7A on Nuckolls > (Aeroelectric Connection) wiring schematic (roughly z-11), on my 7A, > including the forest of ground tabs, which Ive also been very > pleased with. My 7A has no hums, pops or crackles in my intercom and > no electric gremlins have made themselves known yet in 3 years of > flying. I love my Sirius music setup! In reviewing Vans wiring plans > for the 10, I see that the ground cable from the battery is attached > to the airframe near the battery box. Is everyone utilizing single > point grounding for all the accessories(?) and if so, where are you > mounting those single point grounds and what are you grounding there > or not grounding there? And most importantly, are you picking up > hums/pops or voodoo transients from strobes etc? I have none of that > in my 7A and am hopeful Im smart enough to wire the 10 so its > electrical system is as (electrically) clean as my other plane. > Suggestions?? If anyone has photos or diagrams, feel free to load me > up with them offline. The other question I have is whether anyone has > a wiring diagram that incorporates a G900 system. Id like some ideas > on how its wired before I cover up some critical areas. Although Im > a pro at drilling out rivets, I just dont dig it > > Bob Brown > > * * > * * > ; - The RV10-List Email Forhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.=============== > < Same great content also available via the Web Forums! > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con > > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Some of you have seen our overhead console for the RV-10. It's a nice solution to clean up the area were the windshield strut ties into the cabin top, and it provides a convenient place for a lights and coax connections if you decide to put an antenna above it. I had a batch made and frankly they cost quite a bit more than I expected. I have several in stock, and the price is going down. See it here: www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm The new price is $75 plus shipping. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced
Date: Feb 11, 2009
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
On a budget?? Here is my """"Overhead Console"""". One ea blue and white LED strips switched at the box in the picture and dimmed at the panel. The led strips are mounted to an epoxy coated balsa cover that hides the RG400 to the GPS antenna. The switch box covers the brace mount screws. In the final configuration the switch box has a cover plate (over the slot) with a High intensity 'DOT' type LED (battery - independent of everything) with a diffused lens. The Blue LEDs are not only functional - they look coool. All I need is the fluffy dice! Not as flash as Dave's. But hey - it only cost me $20 (Ozzie) for the whole setup. cheers, Ron 187 final countdown. ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2009 9:47 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced Some of you have seen our overhead console for the RV-10. It's a nice solution to clean up the area were the windshield strut ties into the cabin top, and it provides a convenient place for a lights and coax connections if you decide to put an antenna above it. I had a batch made and frankly they cost quite a bit more than I expected. I have several in stock, and the price is going down. See it here: www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm The new price is $75 plus shipping. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Taxes in California
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Well with the wife as a Ca Sales tax Appeals auditor, I have some recommendations. Pay the tax on all the parts as you purchase them and claim them on your state yearly return. This will keep the BOE department off your case and will have proof the tax is paid on the actual cost to get the plane. If you wait until it is registered and the county and the state do there annual comparison on taxes paid vs registered aircraft, and they will I can promise you that. Paying as you purchase will save you a tone of $$ not counting the penalties and fines and the back taxes and interest in the long run. Now as for property tax once it is registered you have to take that up with the county you have the plane stored at. Plan on 1% of the average value for the make and model and how it is equipped. Any one is welcome to contact me if they have questions. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: parts to omit from kit?
Date: Feb 10, 2009
I had mine shipped to Ca and for the price I could not drive there and back,, John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 1:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? Might as well buy an extra pair of trim tab skins as well. Some get them okay in 2 tries, some take 3. Not sure which category I will fit in, but not the perfect on first try group. ;-( Note, if you are thinking driving to the factory for your demo and purchasing emp kit to bring home, I don't know whether they have any kits crated ready to go...normally take a few days to ship them out. Also, takes a full size pickup with 49" between wheel wells and 8 ft bed with tailgate down. Their web site crate size is wrong, as they have gone from 2 crates to a single, wider crate. F150 and Dodge Ram are okay. Don't know about Chevy. Not to mention the box is around 300lbs. Don McDonald wrote: > Hey Nate, first tell us where you are? Lot's of us have extra parts, > and someone close to you could get together with you and give you a > really good breakdown of what you could delete, and what you need in > addition. I did delete quite a few things from the later kit > segments, but I also sent quite a few things back to Van's.... enough > little items to pay for my seat belts. > One thing is certain, buy more #6 and #8 nutplates. > > --- On *Sun, 2/8/09, Nate Lewis //* wrote: > > From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> > Subject: RV10-List: parts to omit from kit? > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 8:24 AM > > > > delurking, and hello folks - > > I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and go visit the factory for a > flight, and come home with the emp kit. > > The recent talk of stainless heater valves and door latches has me wondering: > is there a list of parts to consider deleting from the stock RV-10 kits, in > favor of other solutions? from what I've read, I'm guessing there's > nothing to omit from the empennage, perhaps just a couple things in the wings, > and dozens of items in the remaining kits. > > I should probably ask the same question about the recommended tools list, but > I'm sure I wouldn't get the same answers from any two people, so > I'll just muddle through that part on my own. :) > > I guess I've got plenty of time to soak up ideas about the fuse kit and > beyond, but I might order the wing kit real soon now. any particular advice at > order time? > > Thanks! > > > > > > * > > > * -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Good point with the throttle comments Tim. The restriction is actually against a vernier type throttle that requires a push lock to be released to make large power changes like most prop levers. The normal push-pull type works fine. You are right that many folks prefer the quadrant type. Dick "Frogman" Sipp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 12:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dreams of 1,000 > > Linn, personally, I agree with you. I love flying side by side. > It makes the time go quicker, and you can have a lot of fun > being 50' (or less) away if you're careful. With only 2 planes > involved, it isn't such a big problem. Make it 3 and bring > them in to less than 50' and you are really changing the > amount of workload. Bring them in to 15' and it's nonstop > hard work. I really enjoy flying side by side with people. > It's some of the best fun I've had, flying with Vic, and with > Scott, Stein, and others. But, I definitely realize that while > I may have fun with 2 or 3, there's no way without more > training, and also TRUST that I'd want to get more involved. > Trust is more important and involved than I think people > understand until they've been that close. When I did the > 3-ship, Josh B, a really REALLY good pilot, was the reason > I was able to be that close. It was more his skill than mine. > It was harder than it looks in the photo...and it took > over a hundred photos to get that one. To me, I don't know > that I know 10 RV-10 builders that I can say that I would > without a doubt trust to do a 10, or even 5 ship formation. > How COULD I know I could trust them. I know that 2 planes > together isn't so bad, but I know that 3 is real hard work. > The only way I know I could even begin to trust them, or me, > is to take training, and then at least prove it enough to > have a card in my pocket. Short of that, I don't think > I'd be willing to even be a part of a large formation, > and I'd seriously question someone's judgement if they > thought that I was qualified without carrying the card. > I think formation is a blast, and a great way to have fun. > I just think that it deserves a lot of respect for training > and skill. I would encourage anyone who likes this sort of > thing to go for the training...I know I'd love to. Hope > they do something up by MSP some day. Oh, and if you're > thinking you'll want to do formation, get a throttle > quadrant, not push-pulls. From what I hear, you can't > really be a part of such things in most groups unless > you have a quadrant. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > linn Walters wrote: >> >> David McNeill wrote: >>> >>> Agreed. Another aircraft within a quarter mile; no thanks. Twenty years >>> or >>> so ago I and an instrument student left for OSH out TUL with an IFR >>> clearance on a VFR day. Another VFR pilot ask to tag along (sort of >>> loose >>> deuce) and we would keep in contact on the second radio. When crossing >>> the >>> Mississippi River near St. Louis, visibility had dropped to about 1/2 >>> mile >>> and I told my student I would check on the VFR pilot to see if he was >>> still >>> on frequency. To my surprise he said "check your 4 o'clock" and there he >>> was >>> at about 1/4 mile. That's close enough for me. >> Well, you're just not a candidate for formation flying. That's not a bad >> thing. It isn't for everyone. Those of us that fly that way look at it >> as just another flying skill. It takes training, practice, and more >> practice. Formation flying isn't about how close you can get, but how it >> looks to those on the ground. Spacing is important to have a balanced >> group of airplanes. I like to fly formation when I'm going places with >> other airplanes. It makes the trip go faster as I'm intensely focused on >> that other airplane. Sometimes I get too close for their comfort, and >> they let me know so I can pick another 'sight picture' further out. I >> don't call 1/4 mile (1300 feet) 'in formation'. ;-) >> Linn >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
Heres my problem. I do some of my assembly in the livingroom of our home and my wife thinks I'm crazy and that nobody else does this. If your assembly shop is in the house to lets here about it. Maybe that would help me with the debate. [Wink] [/b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#229662 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
Date: Feb 10, 2009
For the first year and a half it was in the house and garage. Then it got to big and I moved to the hanger.......my wife was not very happy with that because now I wasn't "home".........tell her that she needs to be careful what she asks for...... Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878 Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 7:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP Heres my problem. I do some of my assembly in the livingroom of our home and my wife thinks I'm crazy and that nobody else does this. If your assembly shop is in the house to lets here about it. Maybe that would help me with the debate. [Wink] [/b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#229662 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
Date: Feb 10, 2009
It's an excellent platform for wing position. A little tougher for lead due to poor aft visibility. grumpy On Feb 9, 2009, at 10:11 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I'm on thin ice here, but I was of the impression that the enclosed > cabin cover, and lack a rearward visibility make the -10 a poor > candidate for formation flying/work. > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done....Its just not put together' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > Ron Walker wrote: >> >> As Neil says, it's a surprising amount of work. Some find it very >> satisfying, others not so much - it's not everyones cup of tea. For >> anyone who wants to get their feet wet, there are several *free* >> clinics held at various places throughout the country each year. >> The next one is mid April in the Atlanta area. These are tailored >> toward the total newbies and in my opinion worth ever penny and more. >> >> At the very least, you'll get to ride left seat while an >> experienced pilot is right/back seat to take you through what the >> picture and action is like up close. >> >> Food for thought. >> >> Ron >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil & Sarah Colliver" <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz >> > >> To: >> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 3:07 PM >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dreams of 1,000 >> >> >>> > >>> >>> I'll do my best to join any formation for 2010 at Osh. I did some >>> air to air pics with a very skilled pilot, and was simply amazed >>> at how much work it was as 110 knots in still air. I have a lot >>> of respect for those aerobatic formations now. But if we're going >>> to do it, I'll get the training. >>> >>> Neil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
I brought home all parts possible for deburring.... right on the coffee tab le.... of course,-I put down towels and cardboard.- But that way I was (sort of) home with the wife, but managed to get some much needed work done ..... while watching the tube!-- (--; Don McDonald- --- On Tue, 2/10/09, mds4878 wrote: From: mds4878 <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> Subject: RV10-List: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 6:56 PM Heres my problem. I do some of my assembly in the livingroom of our home an d my wife thinks I'm crazy and that nobody else does this. If your assembly shop is in the house to lets here about it. Maybe that would help me with the de bate. [Wink] [/b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#229662 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Baggage door seal kit
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 10, 2009
I know somewhere I've seen a kit offered for baggage door seals, but I can't find it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229689#229689 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage door seal kit
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
woxofswa wrote: > I know somewhere I've seen a kit offered for baggage door seals, but I can't find it. Any ideas? > Thanks in advance. All the way to the bottom of this page: http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229703#229703 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Same here! Keeps you near.....also put a tv in the shop and hung a porch swing from the ceiling for the kids. Tim On Feb 11, 2009, at 12:29 AM, Don McDonald wrote: > I brought home all parts possible for deburring.... right on the > coffee table.... of course, I put down towels and cardboard. But > that way I was (sort of) home with the wife, but managed to get some > much needed work done..... while watching the tube! (--; > Don McDonald > > --- On Tue, 2/10/09, mds4878 wrote: > From: mds4878 <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> > Subject: RV10-List: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2009, 6:56 PM > > > > Heres my problem. I do some of my assembly in the livingroom of our > home and my > wife thinks I'm crazy and that nobody else does this. If your > assembly shop > is in the house to lets here about it. Maybe that would help me with > the debate. > [Wink] [/b] > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#229662 > > > _- > == > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D===================== > _- > == > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D===================== > _- > == > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D===================== > _- > == > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D= > 3D===================== > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe McKervey" <mckervey(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Baggage door seal kit
Date: Feb 11, 2009
aviationtechproducts.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 1:10 AM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door seal kit > > I know somewhere I've seen a kit offered for baggage door seals, but I > can't find it. Any ideas? > Thanks in advance. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229689#229689 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: Baggage door seal kit
Date: Feb 11, 2009
The Frost King X-Treme Rubber Weatherseal Self Stick Tape (3/8" wide 1/8" thick) #V23W also works well. http://www.frostking.com/windoorweather.php <http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AV4K54/ref=asc_df_B001AV4K54712270?smid=A1SV1B YDTUK2Z5&tag=dealt43-20&linkCode=asn> William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > aviationtechproducts.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 1:10 AM > Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door seal kit > > > > > > I know somewhere I've seen a kit offered for baggage door seals, but I > > can't find it. Any ideas? > > Thanks in advance. > > > > -------- > > Myron Nelson > > Mesa, AZ > > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve" <steveg(at)redmondair.com>
Subject: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Hey guys, for a full length option on overhead console check out this link. http://www.redmondair.com/RV-order_forms/RV10_Overhead_Console-OF.pdf Steve _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 4:06 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced On a budget?? Here is my """"Overhead Console"""". One ea blue and white LED strips switched at the box in the picture and dimmed at the panel. The led strips are mounted to an epoxy coated balsa cover that hides the RG400 to the GPS antenna. The switch box covers the brace mount screws. In the final configuration the switch box has a cover plate (over the slot) with a High intensity 'DOT' type LED (battery - independent of everything) with a diffused lens. The Blue LEDs are not only functional - they look coool. All I need is the fluffy dice! Not as flash as Dave's. But hey - it only cost me $20 (Ozzie) for the whole setup. cheers, Ron 187 final countdown. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Wednesday, 11 February 2009 9:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced Some of you have seen our overhead console for the RV-10. It's a nice solution to clean up the area were the windshield strut ties into the cabin top, and it provides a convenient place for a lights and coax connections if you decide to put an antenna above it. I had a batch made and frankly they cost quite a bit more than I expected. I have several in stock, and the price is going down. See it here: www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm The new price is $75 plus shipping. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ics.com .matronics.com/contribution "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insurance comparison...what's your opinion
From: "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Tim, can you tell us how much hull coverage you are caring. Then we can make a comparison. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229766#229766 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
When I built my Pitts S1S we lived in a much smaller house. I kept the upper wing on our dining room table for a year, the prop was under the bed,etc. Between the 2 planes, my wife's car has been outside for 7 winters. It probably helps that my wife is commercial and instrument rated, and she is looking forward to a plane we can fly together. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229778#229778 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
We deleted the nose wheel from our finishing kit and ordered one direct from Matco. At the same time we got the axle remedy parts and two sets of stick on lead weights. With shipping to Colorado it came to $207. Van's discounted our finishing kit by $95 back in 2007. The correct Matco wheel lists for $135, so it really cost us $40 (plus a portion of the $12 shipping) to make the switch. To those who shipped the untouched parts back to Matco for exchange, what was you total out of pocket? Paul Hahn #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
interesting information. Matco would replace a "new" for $20 so shipping from California it would end up about the same as the difference you had ($20 + $11 to ship + 9 to return= $40) Matco really is doing a great thing for the builder, you're breakdown is yet another example. Thanks for sharing that info. From: Eagerlee Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:57 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up We deleted the nose wheel from our finishing kit and ordered one direct from Matco. At the same time we got the axle remedy parts and two sets of stick on lead weights. With shipping to Colorado it came to $207. Van's discounted our finishing kit by $95 back in 2007. The correct Matco wheel lists for $135, so it really cost us $40 (plus a portion of the $12 shipping) to make the switch. To those who shipped the untouched parts back to Matco for exchange, what was you total out of pocket? Paul Hahn #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Torque value for boss mount planepower alternator
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Does anyone know what the torque value for the boss mount bracket for the planepower alternator is? Also where can I find the required tension for the alternator belt. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229838#229838 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
$31.32 on invoice dated 1/17/07 plus whatever it cost me to ship to them. Back then the correct wheel was $124.04 and they creditied me $105.44 for the Van's wheel. Shipping was $12.72. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > interesting information. Matco would replace a "new" for $20 so shipping from California it would end up about the same as the difference you had ($20 + $11 to ship + 9 to return= $40) > > Matco really is doing a great thing for the builder, you're breakdown is yet another example. > Thanks for sharing that info. > > > From: Eagerlee > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:57 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up > > > We deleted the nose wheel from our finishing kit and ordered one direct from Matco. At the same time we got the axle remedy parts and two sets of stick on lead weights. With shipping to Colorado it came to $207. Van's discounted our finishing kit by $95 back in 2007. The correct Matco wheel lists for $135, so it really cost us $40 (plus a portion of the $12 shipping) to make the switch. To those who shipped the untouched parts back to Matco for exchange, what was you total out of pocket? > Paul Hahn > #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2009
From: kenneth richard <kc_landscapes(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Baggage door seal kit
Alex d the transition trainer in TX has them for the door and baggage doors you can get to his site thru vans airforce under tranition training - ken --- On Wed, 2/11/09, William Curtis wrote: From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage door seal kit Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 10:15 AM The Frost King X-Treme Rubber Weatherseal Self Stick Tape (3/8" wide 1/8" thick) #V23W also works well. http://www.frostking.com/windoorweather.php <http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AV4K54/ref=asc_df_B001AV4K54712270?smid=A 1SV1B YDTUK2Z5&tag=dealt43-20&linkCode=asn> William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > aviationtechproducts.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 1:10 AM > Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door seal kit > > > > > > I know somewhere I've seen a kit offered for baggage door seals, but I > > can't find it. Any ideas? > > Thanks in advance. > > > > -------- > > Myron Nelson > > Mesa, AZ > > Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up For me it was $18. I took it to their booth in OSH and they offer free s hipping during OSH so I didn't have to pay any shipping charges either way. Just the exchange price of $18 two OSH's ago. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Eagerlee Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 2:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatc o RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up We deleted the nose wheel from our finishing kit and ordered one direct fro m Matco. At the same time we got the axle remedy parts and two sets of stic k on lead weights. With shipping to Colorado it came to $207. Van's discou nted our finishing kit by $95 back in 2007. The correct Matco wheel lists for $135, so it really cost us $40 (plus a portion of the $12 shipping) to make the switch. To those who shipped the untouched parts back to Matco for exchange, what was you total out of pocket? Paul Hahn #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
What is the correct wheel to ask for? Carl Froehlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 4:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up $31.32 on invoice dated 1/17/07 plus whatever it cost me to ship to them. Back then the correct wheel was $124.04 and they creditied me $105.44 for the Van's wheel. Shipping was $12.72. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > interesting information. Matco would replace a "new" for $20 so shipping from California it would end up about the same as the difference you had ($20 + $11 to ship + 9 to return= $40) > > Matco really is doing a great thing for the builder, you're breakdown is yet another example. > Thanks for sharing that info. > > > From: Eagerlee > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:57 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up > > > We deleted the nose wheel from our finishing kit and ordered one direct from Matco. At the same time we got the axle remedy parts and two sets of stick on lead weights. With shipping to Colorado it came to $207. Van's discounted our finishing kit by $95 back in 2007. The correct Matco wheel lists for $135, so it really cost us $40 (plus a portion of the $12 shipping) to make the switch. To those who shipped the untouched parts back to Matco for exchange, what was you total out of pocket? > Paul Hahn > #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2009
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Torque value for boss mount planepower alternator
I use the Superior Air Parts Inc. Vantage Engine Maintenance Manual. Most things translate equally from the IO-360 to the IO-540. You can find the document here: http://www.superiorairparts.com/vantageManuals.asp Alternator belt tension is in section 72-10-00. Brian N104BS (104 hours!) Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > Does anyone know what the torque value for the boss mount bracket for the planepower alternator is? > Also where can I find the required tension for the alternator belt. > > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229838#229838 > > > > . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:07 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up What is the correct wheel to ask for? Carl Froehlich ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alulminum Inside Door Handles
From: "truflite" <davidnellis691(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 11, 2009
I have made progress with the design and I now have 8 pairs of handles CNC machined and ready to mount to your lock mechanism. I made a small aesthetic change at the nose where there is the 45 degree angle. That angle is now a radius. I do not have pics available as of yet. My camera is in for repairs. Price is $175.00 US plus $10.00 US for shipping continental US. Pics of the old design are available at davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com Browse through the folders for Door Handles. Any questions are best directed to me at my email adddress davidnellis691(at)comcast.net -------- David Nellis 7A Slider Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229896#229896 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Thanks Michael. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:07 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up What is the correct wheel to ask for? Carl Froehlich ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10
Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
yep! WHLNW511.25, just in case P -------------------------------------------------- From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up > > > Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. > > michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:07 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement > write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up > > > What is the correct wheel to ask for? > > Carl Froehlich > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 11, 2009
Okay. I am about to put the nose whell on the plane=2C but I am ordering th e SS axle. If I stick with the current wheel=2C I know it will work with th e SS axle=2C but i will not be able to put the valve stem cap on...is this correct. If I call Matco and ask for the other half of the rim=2C will it w ork with the SS axle???I am inclined to leaving the valve cover off. Talk a bout making thing complicated...Good grief Charlie Brown!What else am I mis sing?John> From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subje ct: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV -10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up> Date: Wed=2C 11 Feb 2009 18:34:36 > > yep!> > WHLNW511.25=2C just in case> > P> > --------------------------- -----------------------> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sau sen.net>> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 5:39 PM> To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacemen t write-upMatco > RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up> >> --> RV10-Li st message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" >> >>>> Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10.>>>> mi chael>>>> -----Original Message----->> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matroni cs.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl F roehlich>> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 8:07 PM>> To: rv10-list@m atronics.com>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replaceme nt >> write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up>>>> --> RV10- List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" >>>> What ==========> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Feb 12, 2009
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Date: Feb 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Ditto Rick.=C2- I believe all 4 RV10's in this area have gone to the Grov e wheel.=C2- At least the 2 in Lincoln for sure.=C2- One had all the pr oblems from the beginning with the=C2-stock wheel, and since the switch, no problems at all.=C2- We did do some work prior to flight to insure the axle stayed locked.=C2- Once I get flying, I'll comment further. Don McDonald=C2-=C2-=C2- --- On Wed, 2/11/09, ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrot e: From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatc o RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 8:19 PM #yiv287311519 .hmmessage P {}#yiv287311519 {} FWIW, as a late post on my part, I bought the Grove wheel and axel...only t hing I can say is it's really nice to have a complete engineered WORKING as sembly with no valve stem, bearing preload or spacers to deal with....I hop e that this is the final answer to what equates to a very simple engineerin g solution...the nose wheel never should have generated this much trouble.. .I knew there would be a point in my life I would regret not getting my P.E . Stamp... Rick Sked 40185 Oh so close Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From: John Gonzalez Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:49:50 -0800 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatc o RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Okay. I am about to put the nose whell on the plane=2C but I am ordering th= e SS axle. If I stick with the current wheel=2C I know it will work with th= e SS axle=2C but i will not be able to put the valve stem cap on...is this = correct.- If I call Matco and ask for the other half o= f the rim=2C will it work with the SS axle??? I am= inclined to leaving the valve cover off. Talk about making thing co mplicat= ed...Good grief Charlie Brown! What else am I miss= ing? John > From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nos= ewheel Axle replacement write- upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement wri= te-up > Date: Wed=2C 11 Feb 2009 18:34:36 -0800 > > --> RV10-List= message posted by: "pascal" <=3Bpascal(at)rv10builder.net > > > yep!<= br>> > WHLNW511.25=2C just in case > > P > > ------------= -------------------------------------- > From: "RV Builder (Michael Saus= en)" <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> > Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 200= 9 5:39 PM > To: <=3Brv10-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-Li= st: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write- upMatco > RV-10 Nosewh= eel Axle replacement write-up > >> <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> >> >= > Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. >> >>= michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list= -server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] = On Behalf Of Carl Froe hlich >> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 8:= 07 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco= RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement >> write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle= replacement write-up >> ch(at)cox.net> >> >> What is the correct whee= l to ask for? >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> >> >> >> >= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =C2 =C2=B7=BA~=B0=C3=AD=C2=B2,=C3=9Eg(=93=C5-=C3=93M4=C3 =93G=C3=9Aq=C3=BC=C2=A2=C3=AA=C3=A2z=C2=B9=C3=9E=C3=81=C3=8A.=C2=AE'=C2=AB8 ^E]t.+-f=C2=A2=9DZ+=C2=BAt=C2=B1=C3=ABax=C3=86=C2=AD=C2=AE=B0 =C3=A2r=C3=82=C3=A2=C2=B2=C3=91^j=C3=9B=C2=ABz=C3=83Z=C2=BE(=C2=B6=C5-=C3 =AD=C2=A1=C2=BA=C3=A8=C3=82=C3=87=C2=B6=C2j|=B9=C5-=C3=8Bn=C2=B6 )b=C2=B6'=C2=AC=C2=B2=C3=A7!j=C3=82=C3=A2=C2=B2=C3-'=C3=BD+=BA=C2 =B1=C3=8A=C3=A2=C2=C3=98=C2=A8=C5=93+r=C2=AFy'=C5=A1=C2=AD=C3=88C=C2=A3 =C3=A5=C2=A1=C2=A7{ =C2=AC=EF=BD=C2=AE=C5=92,x(Z=C2=B4P=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 12, 2009
OK, earlier this week, I ordered the Matco nosewheel axle for both the RV7A and the RV10. Here=92s my question, does that mean I still have to order the Grove nosewheel if I want to put on the darned valve stem cap? If I order just the Grove nosewheel, do I still NEED the Matco nosewheel axle assy? Call me confused=85 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)embarqmail.com Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up FWIW, as a late post on my part, I bought the Grove wheel and axel...only thing I can say is it's really nice to have a complete engineered WORKING assembly with no valve stem, bearing preload or spacers to deal with....I hope that this is the final answer to what equates to a very simple engineering solution...the nose wheel never should have generated this much trouble...I knew there would be a point in my life I would regret not getting my P.E. Stamp... Rick Sked 40185 Oh so close Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T _____ From: John Gonzalez Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:49:50 -0800 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Okay. I am about to put the nose whell on the plane=2C but I am ordering th e SS axle. If I stick with the current wheel=2C I know it will work with th e SS axle=2C but i will not be able to put the valve stem cap on...is this correct.- If I call Matco and ask for the other half o= f the rim=2C will it work with the SS axle??? I am= inclined to leaving the valve cover off. Talk about making thing complicat= ed...Good grief Charlie Brown! What else am I miss= ing? John > From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nos= ewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement wri= te-up > Date: Wed=2C 11 Feb 2009 18:34:36 -0800 > > --> RV10-List= message posted by: "pascal" <=3Bpascal(at)rv10builder.net> > > yep!<= br>> > WHLNW511.25=2C just in case > > P > > ------------= -------------------------------------- > From: "RV Builder (Michael Saus= en)" <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> > Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 200= 9 5:39 PM > To: <=3Brv10-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-Li= st: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco > RV-10 Nosewh= eel Axle replacement write-up > >> <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> >> >= > Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. >> >>= michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list= -server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] = On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich >> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 8:= 07 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco= RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement >> write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle= replacement write-up >> <=3Bcarl.froehlich(at)cox.net> >> >> What is the correct whee= l to ask for? >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> >> >> >> >= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > = 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D The RV10-List Email Forum - many more: 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D List Contribution Web http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =B7~=89=B2, _____ g'=D3=D3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insurance comparison...what's your opinion
From: "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 12, 2009
Tim, I would say now to go with the best coverage. Your prices are right in line with mind for the same coverage. Go with the best value for you dollar. R/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229969#229969 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2009
From: Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:12:37 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatc o =C2- RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up OK, earlier this week, I ordered the Matco nosewheel axle for both the RV7A and the RV10.=C2- Here=99s my question, does that mean I still hav e to order the Grove nosewheel if I want to put on the darned valve stem ca p?=C2- If I order just the Grove nosewheel, do I still NEED the Matco nos ewheel axle assy?=C2- Call me confused From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)embarqmail.com Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatc o RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up FWIW, as a late post on my part, I bought the Grove wheel and axel...only t hing I can say is it's really nice to have a complete engineered WORKING as sembly with no valve stem, bearing preload or spacers to deal with....I hop e that this is the final answer to what equates to a very simple engineerin g solution...the nose wheel never should have generated this much trouble.. .I knew there would be a point in my life I would regret not getting my P.E . Stamp... Rick Sked 40185 Oh so close Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T >From : John Gonzalez To : RV 10 group Subject : RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMat co RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Okay. I am about to put the nose whell on the plane=2C but I am ordering th= e SS axle. If I stick with the current wheel=2C I know it will work with th= e SS axle=2C but i will not be able to put the valve stem cap on...is this = correct.- If I call Matco and ask for the other half o= f the rim=2C will it work with the SS axle??? I am= inclined to leaving the valve cover off. Talk about making thing co mplicat= ed...Good grief Charlie Brown! What else am I miss= ing? John > From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nos= ewheel Axle replacement write- upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement wri= te-up > Date: Wed=2C 11 Feb 2009 18:34:36 -0800 > > --> RV10-List= message posted by: "pascal" <=3Bpascal(at)rv10builder.net > > > yep!<= br>> > WHLNW511.25=2C just in case > > P > > ------------= -------------------------------------- > From: "RV Builder (Michael Saus= en)" <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> > Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 200= 9 5:39 PM > To: <=3Brv10-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-Li= st: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write- upMatco > RV-10 Nosewh= eel Axle replacement write-up > >> <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> >> >= > Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. >> >>= michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list= -server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] = On Behalf Of Carl Froe hlich >> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 8:= 07 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco= RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement >> write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle= replacement write-up >> ch(at)cox.net> >> >> What is the correct whee= l to ask for? >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> >> >> >> >= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > = =C2- 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=href="3D">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =C2=C2=B7~=B0=C2=B2, g=93=C3=93=C3=93 The Grove wheel is an entire assembly including the axel. I went with the G rove unit because it addresses the valve stem,and the spacer issue I had a lready mounted the wheel so trading in wasn't an option. The Grove axel is desi gned by Grove for that wheel. It fits perfectly and unless you use a 3 ' breaker bar to install the bolt it will free wheel all day long due to th e internal spacer. Plus you can get it in Magnesium if you want. I spoke wi th them about their version and they told me there had not been any issues at all with their wheel & Axel assembly. Once you see it you'll understand why. If I had the option I would have traded in my Matco just for cost savi ngs. All in all it was about $285 well spent. It was very easy to static ba lance the wheel on the axel. I spun it up with a buffer and it rode true wi ===================== == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco
RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up
Date: Feb 12, 2009
>From what I know $299 at Grove gets it all axle, rim etc.. If you already have the Matco rim, send it back to Matco and get the "right" one. I needed to verify that I had an issue first so I was charged as a used rim, even at that price it turned out to be less expensive than the Grove would have been. From: Rick Sked Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:42 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:12:37 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up OK, earlier this week, I ordered the Matco nosewheel axle for both the RV7A and the RV10. Here=99s my question, does that mean I still have to order the Grove nosewheel if I want to put on the darned valve stem cap? If I order just the Grove nosewheel, do I still NEED the Matco nosewheel axle assy? Call me confused From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)embarqmail.com Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up FWIW, as a late post on my part, I bought the Grove wheel and axel...only thing I can say is it's really nice to have a complete engineered WORKING assembly with no valve stem, bearing preload or spacers to deal with....I hope that this is the final answer to what equates to a very simple engineering solution...the nose wheel never should have generated this much trouble...I knew there would be a point in my life I would regret not getting my P.E. Stamp... Rick Sked 40185 Oh so close Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- From: John Gonzalez Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:49:50 -0800 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-up Okay. I am about to put the nose whell on the plane=2C but I am ordering th= e SS axle. If I stick with the current wheel=2C I know it will work with th= e SS axle=2C but i will not be able to put the valve stem cap on...is this = correct.- If I call Matco and ask for the other half o= f the rim=2C will it work with the SS axle??? I am= inclined to leaving the valve cover off. Talk about making thing complicat= ed...Good grief Charlie Brown! What else am I miss= ing? John > From: pascal(at)rv10builder.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Matco RV-10 Nos= ewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement wri= te-up > Date: Wed=2C 11 Feb 2009 18:34:36 -0800 > > --> RV10-List= message posted by: "pascal" <=3Bpascal(at)rv10builder.net> > > yep!<= br>> > WHLNW511.25=2C just in case > > P > > ------------= -------------------------------------- > From: "RV Builder (Michael Saus= en)" <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> > Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 200= 9 5:39 PM > To: <=3Brv10-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-Li= st: Matco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement write-upMatco > RV-10 Nosewh= eel Axle replacement write-up > >> <=3Brvbuilder(at)sausen.net> >> >= > Don't recall off hand but they know as soon as you say RV-10. >> >>= michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list= -server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] = On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich >> Sent: Wednesday=2C February 11=2C 2009 8:= 07 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Matco= RV-10 Nosewheel Axle replacement >> write-upMatco RV-10 Nosewheel Axle= replacement write-up >> <=3Bcarl.froehlich(at)cox.net> >> >> What is the correct whee= l to ask for? >> >> Carl Froehlich >> >> >> >> >> >= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > = 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= href="3D">http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D =C2=C2=B7~=B0=C2=B2, ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- g=93=C3=93=C3=93 The Grove wheel is an entire assembly including the axel. I went with the Grove unit because it addresses the valve stem,and the spacer issue I had already mounted the wheel so trading in wasn't an option. The Grove axel is designed by Grove for that wheel. It fits perfectlyand unless you use a 3' breaker bar to install the bolt it will free wheel all day long due to the internal spacer. Plus you can get it inMagnesium if you want. I spoke with them about their version and theytold me there had not been any issues at all with their wheel & Axel assembly. Once you see it you'll understand why. If I had the option I would have traded in my Matco just for cost savings. All in all it was about $285 well spent. It was very easy to static balance the wheel on the axel.I spun it up with a buffer and it rode true with no vibration. Rick Sked40185 get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 12, 2009
I have done a LOT of formation flying in my RV-6, including with a 10. My observation: the 10 is a poor formation platform. The visibility is not good because of the cabin top/door post location and they usually have a vernier throttle and not quadrant. It takes a lot of practice, you need to be really comfortable with the other pilots, and it should never be taken lightly. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230036#230036 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
Date: Feb 12, 2009
The dinning room table is where the fuselage resided for a few weeks. Every room in the house was storage... ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: mds4878 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, 11 February, 2009 1:26:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP > Heres my problem. I do some of my assembly in the livingroom of our home and my wife thinks I'm crazy and that nobody else does this. If your assembly shop is in the house to lets here about it. Maybe that would help me with the debate. [Wink] [/b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#22966r?RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Make Yahoo!7 your homepage and win a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229662#229662>Find out more<http://au.rd.yahoo.com/homepage/mailtagline/*http://au.docs.yahoo.co m/homepageset/?p1=other&p2=au&p3=tagline>. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Feb 12, 2009
I did not do any assembly / deburring in the house, but the parts storage was in many rooms. You must not have been as insightful on the purchase of the house. My real estate agent did not know how to handle a customer who specified the size and configuration of the garage , three cars, no posts, as the first priority . -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230042#230042 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Sure no posts...but look at all the posts you have now!!! On the list I mean ;) I never felt too cramped in my 2 car until I shoved the plane into our hangar...we're spoiled now...hangar is twice the size of the entire House!!! Rick Sked 40185 ------Original Message------ From: egohr1 Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ReplyTo: Rv Sent: Feb 12, 2009 6:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP I did not do any assembly / deburring in the house, but the parts storage was in many rooms. You must not have been as insightful on the purchase of the house. My real estate agent did not know how to handle a customer who specified the size and configuration of the garage , three cars, no posts, as the first priority .. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230042#230042 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2009
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dreams of 1,000
I am not a formation expert but...... I've done some formation work with the Texas Air Aces (T-34's) when they were in operation in Houston and have done a few formation flights with the 10 and other planes and feel like I have a ton of visibility. I also have a few hours flying in the Pitts bi-planes and the visibility is 50% worse than the RV-10, maybe more, and pilots do formation work with it every day. Sean Tucker's school even teach formation work with their Pitts. My guess is that the pilot is probably 95% of proper formation flying and not so much the plane. You guys just got me thinking about this. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 6:05:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Dreams of 1,000 I have done a LOT of formation flying in my RV-6, including with a 10. My observation: the 10 is a poor formation platform. The visibility is not good because of the cabin top/door post location and they usually have a vernier throttle and not quadrant. It takes a lot of practice, you need to be really comfortable with the other pilots, and it should never be taken lightly. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230036#230036 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Balance wheel pants ?
I've got a note on my 'to-do list' to balance the wheels and wheel pants. I remember seeing a writeup some where about someone who had not only balanced they wheels, but also their wheel pants. I tried the archieve search but came up short, anybody know anything about how you would balance wheel pants??? Deems Davis # 406 'getting close to 1st engine start' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2009
Subject: Re: Balance wheel pants ?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
So their pants aren't lopsided? ;-p Not sure what the goal might be. About all I can think of is putting them both on a scale to get their static weight close after all glass work is done. Can't think of any difference it would make in how things work. On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 10:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I've got a note on my 'to-do list' to balance the wheels and wheel pants. I > remember seeing a writeup some where about someone who had not only balanced > they wheels, but also their wheel pants. I tried the archieve search but > came up short, anybody know anything about how you would balance wheel > pants??? > > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'getting close to 1st engine start' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torque value for boss mount planepower alternator
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Thanks Brian, I also found after some research the required bolt torques on the B & C website. I believe that will be the same for planepower. 1.Mount alternator on engine case. Use the two bolts that are already in the bracket and bolt the bracket to the boss with the two 5/16" NC tapped holes. Torque the bolts to 110-150 in-lbs. Safety wire the bolts and bend the tabs up against the flat of the heads. 2.Mount the belt tension arm in the standard location. The bolt is taped to the belt tension arm. Install the other bolt (already on the alternator) through the slot in the tension arm. Michael 3.Install the belt (prop must be removed), adjust the tension of the belt, and tighten the two belt tension arm bolts to 110-150 in-lbs. Safety wire these two bolts also. 4.Tighten the long pivot bolt to 360-480 in-lbs. -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230070#230070 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I started building in a 2.5 room apartment and the size of the room I called my "workshop" was 96 sq ft. At least the workbench and the compressor fitted in there. See attached picture or website: www.wellenzohn.net Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230071#230071 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture_66_151.jpeg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LIVINGROOM ASSEMBLY SHOP
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Claudia and Martin Sutter built their first RV-6 in their living room - just rolled back the carpet and went to work. I built mine in the garage and stored all the finished pieces and some parts in the house: wing cradle and tail feathers in the bedroom, canopy and cowl in the girls' closets, etc. It made for some interesting conversation with visitors. RV-10 tail feathers were stored above the kitchen cabinets until we moved back to TX and now have a hanger in the back yard. That's the only way to go. Whatever you do, you better have her on board 100% or your life will be miserable. "When Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy". -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230073#230073 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Balance wheel pants ?
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Deems, There have been a few discussions on this with no definitive answers. Based on my experience with Cessna nose wheel shimmy I think it is worth doing, at least with the nose wheel though I will do all three. It isn't that hard to do and it does not have to be exact to a nanogram. You are looking for fore-aft balance, not top-bottom. Temporarily attach a rod to the wheel pant in line with the axle. Hang it between something and if the tail is heavy then epoxy some weight in the nose - or vise versa. You can make a good case that it is wasted effort on the mains since there have been no reports of shimmy or damaged wheel pants that I am aware. There have been so many issues with the nose wheel that it may be good insurance. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230074#230074 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Balance wheel pants ?
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Deems Davis wrote: > I remember seeing a writeup some where about someone who had not only balanced they wheels, but also their wheel pants. I tried the archieve search but came up short, anybody know anything about how you would balance wheel pants??? > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'getting close to 1st engine start' > http://deemsrv10.com/ Deems, Tim has talked about balancing both the tires and pants. The link to the balancing is http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230078#230078 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Balance wheel pants ?
Dave, you're right on with this. I don't remember if I have yet balanced my mains. I don't think I have, but I did on the nose. If you have one side way heavier than the other, then the arm of the weight will give it the tendency to really put some action into the movement as you go over bumps or get other vibrations. I know others who have seen shimmy problems go away after balancing. As you said, it doesn't have to be exact...just getting them more evened out is good. For what it's worth, I don't think I did the mains (I probably should, and will) but I have had some shimmy and was surprised one day when John C. said he noticed that it was one of my mains that was shimmying, kind of tipping up and down, forward and aft. I'm sure balancing the tire helped, but I think balancing the wheel fairing would have been a good idea too. I just need to get out there and do it this year while I'm repacking my wheel bearings. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying nukeflyboy wrote: > > Deems, > > There have been a few discussions on this with no definitive answers. > Based on my experience with Cessna nose wheel shimmy I think it is > worth doing, at least with the nose wheel though I will do all three. > It isn't that hard to do and it does not have to be exact to a > nanogram. You are looking for fore-aft balance, not top-bottom. > > Temporarily attach a rod to the wheel pant in line with the axle. > Hang it between something and if the tail is heavy then epoxy some > weight in the nose - or vise versa. > > You can make a good case that it is wasted effort on the mains since > there have been no reports of shimmy or damaged wheel pants that I am > aware. There have been so many issues with the nose wheel that it > may be good insurance. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Balance wheel pants ?
Date: Feb 13, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Hey Deems, This is a write up that has stuck with me. I plan on replicating it. http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/wheel%20pants.htm Phil -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis [mailto:deemsdavis(at)cox.net] Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 11:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Balance wheel pants ? I've got a note on my 'to-do list' to balance the wheels and wheel pants. I remember seeing a writeup some where about someone who had not only balanced they wheels, but also their wheel pants. I tried the archieve search but came up short, anybody know anything about how you would balance wheel pants??? Deems Davis # 406 'getting close to 1st engine start' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2009
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Balance wheel pants ?
First, the reason. Balancing the wheelpants fore/aft takes the stress off of the mounting hardware and the pant during rough operations Second ... the how. Make another hole opposite the outboard bolt hole, run a rod through the hole and balance ..... Just get it close since any position other than 'completely level' will unbalance it due to the pant CG. Epoxy and some lead shot work great when you find out how much you need and where you need it. Also remember that it's additional weight ..... Observation: I've never like the tubular gear on the RVs ..... they look horrible rolling over rough ground/ramps ..... the walk, not roll. :-P . But they do seem to stand up, so who am I to complain. Linn Deems Davis wrote: > > I've got a note on my 'to-do list' to balance the wheels and wheel > pants. I remember seeing a writeup some where about someone who had > not only balanced they wheels, but also their wheel pants. I tried the > archieve search but came up short, anybody know anything about how you > would balance wheel pants??? > > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'getting close to 1st engine start' > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
From: "Nictech" <nyenhuis(at)eastlink.ca>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I am new to this forum so I hope that I'm doing this right. On the Van's website on the links page is Greg Hale. http://74.86.118.26/~ikkfqrxr/rv10_home.html He has a weight and balance program that looks pretty good. I am still building the empannage so I have no idea if it is good. Let me know how it works out for you. -------- Nick Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230109#230109 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: "Nictech" <nyenhuis(at)eastlink.ca>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I don't know how this software is but it looks interesting. http://www.airplanecolor.com/ I haven't installed it yet because I am just starting my project and if I don't purchase the full program, I want the 15 days when I am considering paint. -------- Nick RV10 Building Nova Scotia, Canada Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230113#230113 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I just loaded Greg's W&B program yesterday. It is really nice. I now have it on my EFB so I will have access to it in the airplane. There are some very smart people out there!! David Maib 40559 Flying On Feb 13, 2009, at 11:21 AM, Nictech wrote: I am new to this forum so I hope that I'm doing this right. On the Van's website on the links page is Greg Hale. http:// 74.86.118.26/~ikkfqrxr/rv10_home.html He has a weight and balance program that looks pretty good. I am still building the empannage so I have no idea if it is good. Let me know how it works out for you. -------- Nick Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230109#230109 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: computer simulation of paint scheme
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Yep, this is the one I was talking about. They now have an RV-10 model in the software. For $15 it's a no brainer... You can move the airplane around in 3D and see how it looks from different angles. http://www.airplanecolor.com/aircraft/rv-10/index.htm Lenny #40803 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230124#230124 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowl Seal - Std Vans or low friction
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
Is anyone out there using the "Cowl Saver" brand of cowl seal. You can buy it direct or from Aircraft Spruce. I am at that point and trying to decide? Is the stuff that great? Feed back appreciated. Link to the Spruce web site on cowl saver http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/baffleSeal.php -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230137#230137 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I agree, John. I'm so looking forward to seeing his airplane. Hey Greg, Are you going to make OSH this year? Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230143#230143 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Gasket between airbox and fuel injection system
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2009
I didn't find anywhere a remark that a gasket is required between the airbox and the fuel injection system. is that correct? See attached picture. Kind regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230163#230163 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0231_741.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2009
Subject: Apollo GX-series owners--a deal
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
For those that didn't catch it on the RV Builders Hotline: http://havionics.com/future_service_on_apollo.htm Future Service on Apollo GX Products Impacted by Critical Component Availability: Garmin offering customers upgrade path to GNS430W and GNS530W series products. The availability of spare display boards for the Apollo GX series of GPS navigators is depleted and the original parts manufacturer has discontinued producing the parts. Garmin will continue to support the GX products with repair service as long as possible, but as a result of these events Garmin is launching a trade in program for GX owners with non-repairable units. For a limited time customers can purchase a GNS430W / 530W series product at a discounted price. The trade-in value depends on the model number of the Apollo GX. GX55 owners will receive $1,000 off the list price of any GNS430W / 530W series product; GX65 owners qualify for $1,500 off, GX50 owners $1,750 off, and GX60 owners can receive $2,000 off the list price. This is a limited time offer by Garmin that will expire December 31, 2009. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2009
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Rubberized Wing Walk Material For Sale
Hi Everyone, I have purchased a quantity of 3M Safety Walk Medium Resilient Self Adhesive Tread for my own project and there is lots left over. This is a rubberized material instead of the mineral based tread that is usually applied to the wing walk area. The material is less aggressive than the sand paper type yet still has the anti-skid properties that are needed in the wing walk area. The material is a medium grey in color and I have approximately 21 pieces that are 6 inches wide by 30 inches long for sale. These are slightly longer and narrower than the ones Van's sells in its catalog and there is no logo cut into them. Personally, I am going to be using 1 - 6 inch strip and 1 - 3 inch strip on each side of my RV-10 for a total of 3 strips. If everyone orders this same way I have enough for 7 aircraft. The price for these are US$ 15.00 per strip plus shipping. Please contact me at the e-mail address below with the words "Wing Walk" in the Subject box if you are interested. Thanks, Dave -- Dave Hertner President Effectus AeroProducts Inc. Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com Phone: (519) 933-2055 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Apollo GX-series owners--a deal
Date: Feb 14, 2009
The wording of non-repairable units tells me that if min is working OK (and it is), they don't want to hear from me..... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 9:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: Apollo GX-series owners--a deal > > For those that didn't catch it on the RV Builders Hotline: > > http://havionics.com/future_service_on_apollo.htm > > Future Service on Apollo GX Products Impacted by Critical Component > Availability: > Garmin offering customers upgrade path to GNS430W and GNS530W series > products. > > The availability of spare display boards for the Apollo GX series of > GPS navigators is depleted and the original parts manufacturer has > discontinued producing the parts. > > Garmin will continue to support the GX products with repair service as > long as possible, but as a result of these events Garmin is launching > a trade in program for GX owners with non-repairable units. For a > limited time customers can purchase a GNS430W / 530W series product at > a discounted price. > The trade-in value depends on the model number of the Apollo GX. GX55 > owners will receive $1,000 off the list price of any GNS430W / 530W > series product; GX65 owners qualify for $1,500 off, GX50 owners $1,750 > off, and GX60 owners can receive $2,000 off the list price. > > This is a limited time offer by Garmin that will expire December 31, 2009. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: VA-186 Oil cooler box
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2009
I am in the midst of the fuselage kit, and just installed the Matco parking brake valve. While I was riveting the PB bracket to the firewall, I started thinking about the oil cooler box. It seems to me that now would be a good time to rivet the oil cooler box to the firewall with much better access and the ability to insulate that part of the firewall. The plans show the box being installed much later even after the engine mount is installed. I am thinking of ordering the oil cooler box assembly now and installing it rather than waiting for the firewall forward kit when it will be much harder to buck those rivets with the upper fuselage on and the rudder pedals installed. Is there some reason you guys can think of that I should wait? If installing the box later, is there a possibility of using pulled rivets to install the box? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230261#230261 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2009
From: Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
Myron, I did exactly what you are thinking of doing, and would do it again that way. No problem installing mount and engine etc. later. Regards, Dave Lammers woxofswa wrote: > >I am in the midst of the fuselage kit, and just installed the Matco parking brake valve. While I was riveting the PB bracket to the firewall, I started thinking about the oil cooler box. > >It seems to me that now would be a good time to rivet the oil cooler box to the firewall with much better access and the ability to insulate that part of the firewall. >The plans show the box being installed much later even after the engine mount is installed. > >I am thinking of ordering the oil cooler box assembly now and installing it rather than waiting for the firewall forward kit when it will be much harder to buck those rivets with the upper fuselage on and the rudder pedals installed. > >Is there some reason you guys can think of that I should wait? If installing the box later, is there a possibility of using pulled rivets to install the box? > >Thanks in advance. > >-------- >Myron Nelson >Mesa, AZ >Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230261#230261 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale
Date: Feb 14, 2009
Mike, Shipped out FedEx today. Tracking number is 045720410041419. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Schulz Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 11:35 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I would take one. Mike Schulz Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC 4878 Edgewater Drive Mound, MN 55364 612-590-8604 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 8:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 overhead consoles for sale I purchased two Accuracy Avionics overhead panels for my project and for a friend's project. http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html We decided not to install an overhead console. They are as received from Accuracy Avionics. Selling them for $275 each plus shipping - half of what I paid. Carl Froehlich 540 371-8482 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: VA-186 Oil cooler box
Date: Feb 14, 2009
I did the same thing, just received the oil cooler box yesterday and plan on installing it now so I can begin installing the parking brake and firewall insulation. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 2:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: VA-186 Oil cooler box I am in the midst of the fuselage kit, and just installed the Matco parking brake valve. While I was riveting the PB bracket to the firewall, I started thinking about the oil cooler box. It seems to me that now would be a good time to rivet the oil cooler box to the firewall with much better access and the ability to insulate that part of the firewall. The plans show the box being installed much later even after the engine mount is installed. I am thinking of ordering the oil cooler box assembly now and installing it rather than waiting for the firewall forward kit when it will be much harder to buck those rivets with the upper fuselage on and the rudder pedals installed. Is there some reason you guys can think of that I should wait? If installing the box later, is there a possibility of using pulled rivets to install the box? Thanks in advance. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230261#230261 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Started
Date: - - - , 20-
Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introduce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Started
Date: Feb 14, 2009
Sean, I think you will have a great time with the RV-10.. Where are you from? Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 7:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Started Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introduce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Started
Welcome aboard.... I hope you have as much fun and achieve the same level o f satisfaction that most of us have had. ... somehow I'm almost thinking th at I'm no longer the newcomer.- Question for all-out there.....- Since Sean is #40936, and I'm 40636, d oes that mean they sold 300 kits since my purchase in Nov 2006? Keep after it Sean, it's all about the hours put in....- I'm doing my wei ght and balance this coming weekend.- Not totally painted, but almost all put together. Don McDonald --- On Sat, 2/14/09, Seano wrote: From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> Subject: RV10-List: Started Date: Saturday, February 14, 2009, 6:29 PM Hello everyone, - My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10.- I wanted to intro duce myself and make sure I am doing this right.- I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS.- I have already l earned a lot from reading this matronics list.- Also, I wanted to thank S cott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and g etting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Started
Date: - - - , 20-
I grew up in West Jordan, UT. I'm having a great time so far on the kit. I feel like I know everyone from reading these emails. Sean 801-557-0658 ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Started Sean, I think you will have a great time with the RV-10.. Where are you from? Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 7:30 PM To: rv10 list Subject: RV10-List: Started Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introduce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Subject: Started
Yep Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 12:40 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Started Welcome aboard.... I hope you have as much fun and achieve the same level o f satisfaction that most of us have had. ... somehow I'm almost thinking th at I'm no longer the newcomer. Question for all out there..... Since Sean is #40936, and I'm 40636, does that mean they sold 300 kits since my purchase in Nov 2006? Keep after it Sean, it's all about the hours put in.... I'm doing my weigh t and balance this coming weekend. Not totally painted, but almost all put together. Don McDonald --- On Sat, 2/14/09, Seano wrote: From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> Subject: RV10-List: Started Date: Saturday, February 14, 2009, 6:29 PM Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introdu ce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Sch midt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting m e a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: AML34 connectors
Date: Feb 15, 2009
What connectors should I use for the Honeywell AML34 rocker switches? The common 1/4" Fast Ons are too loose. Thanks. Wayne rwayne(at)gamewood.net Checked by AVG. 6:01 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Started
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Ditto the welcome. Yes, serial numbers are empennage kits sold. I'm 40866, June 08. Sean, don't worry if a task doesn't come out perfect. We all get familiar with how to order replacement parts from Vans, how to devise work arounds/repairs. All part of the learning process. It really pays if you have a mentor or two nearby to brainstorm fixes, or just what the manual means, if there are key elements to the instructions, or a better way. It pays to spend time looking at Tim Olsen's construction log, Mike Howe's log and others before initiating a task. You will find some pictures work a lot better for understanding than Van's 3D drawings. Just yesterday I was puzzling over an instruction, stopped for lunch, read ahead a ways, and suddenly the light bulb went on as to where my brain was trying to take a left turn that wasn't in the plans. Also, very few of us are trying to set any records for fastest completion time. Main goal is to get it built in a form that is safe, meets your personal standards and satisfies you. It takes whatever time it takes. Kelly A&P/IA Tech Counselor On Sat, Feb 14, 2009 at 11:39 PM, Don McDonald wrote: > Welcome aboard.... > Question for all out there..... Since Sean is #40936, and I'm 40636, does > that mean they sold 300 kits since my purchase in Nov 2006? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Stock Lycoming
Date: Feb 15, 2009
I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. In order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell prop combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision regarding engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection system, smoothness and overall performance compared to the BPE or other engine shop engine. I will probably install an ElectroAir ignition with one mag. Thanks in advance for the input. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AML34 connectors
Wayne Williams wrote: > > What connectors should I use for the Honeywell AML34 rocker switches? The > common 1/4" Fast Ons are too loose. Thanks. > Well, they shouldn't be. The problem may be in the connectors you're using. Get some from an automotive supply place and compare the thickness of the metal. Should be obvious. You can crimp the 'curl' of the faston .... just be gentle, adn don't overdo it ..... they're a b...h to push on of they're too tight!!! Linn > Wayne > rwayne(at)gamewood.net > > Checked by AVG. > 6:01 PM > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Stock Lycoming
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Hard to go wrong with stock. That doesn't necessarily mean factory built via Vans. I'd guess that the authorized engine kit shops, like Barrett and Aerosport and Mattituck could be pretty competitive on price if you stay with stock components. It is the changing fuel system, ignition, sump, compression ratio, etc that add to the bottom line. I'd be inclined to pursue quotes from at least the two shops closest to you on a real apples to apples comparison so you have comfort with your decision. I operate LOP frequently on my IO-360A1A with stock Bendix mags, Bendix FI with stock injectors. Plenty smooth after I had prop balanced. Not sure what you mean on performance. With stock setup you should get 260hp, within +/- 5%. While I think I want the cold air induction sump, I also realize it entails extra work if I go that route. I'll try to get Bendix mags instead of the stock Slick. That's about all the changes I'd go for. The closer to stock you stay, the quicker you finish....but you already knew that. On Sun, Feb 15, 2009 at 7:36 AM, Dave Leikam wrote: > I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. In > order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell prop > combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision regarding > engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection system, smoothness > and overall performance compared to the BPE or other engine shop engine. I > will probably install an ElectroAir ignition with one mag. Thanks in > advance for the input. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA (Reserved) > Muskego, WI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AML34 connectors
Wayne Williams wrote: > > What connectors should I use for the Honeywell AML34 rocker switches? The > common 1/4" Fast Ons are too loose. Thanks. > Well, they shouldn't be. The problem may be in the connectors you're using. Get some from an automotive supply place and compare the thickness of the metal. Should be obvious. You can crimp the 'curl' of the faston .... just be gentle, and don't overdo it ..... they're a b...h to push on of they're too tight!!! Linn > Wayne > rwayne(at)gamewood.net > > Checked by AVG. > 6:01 PM > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Started
Date: Feb 15, 2009
If you ever need anything, let me know. I am up in Ogden and should be finishing up my first annual in the next couple of weeks. My airplane is no where near as nice as Scotts, but it just shows that with the right amount of determination, anyone can build one of these. Next month, out local EAA Chapter (58), is going on a hanger visit to Brigham City to see John Kirklands RV-10. If you want to see one that is partially built it would be a good opportunity. Our EAA chapter is very open to visitors and all are welcome. www.eaa58.org <http://www.eaa58.org/> Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 11:56 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Started I grew up in West Jordan, UT. I'm having a great time so far on the kit. I feel like I know everyone from reading these emails. Sean 801-557-0658 ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene <mailto:rene(at)felker.com> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Started Sean, I think you will have a great time with the RV-10.. Where are you from? Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 7:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Started Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introduce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AML34 connectors
My apologies for the multiple posts. Configuring a new computer. :-P Working 'till 3 AM probably has something to do with it!!! ;-) Good news is that is should fix my clock problem!!! :-) Linn linn wrote: > > Wayne Williams wrote: >> >> What connectors should I use for the Honeywell AML34 rocker switches? >> The >> common 1/4" Fast Ons are too loose. Thanks. >> > Well, they shouldn't be. The problem may be in the connectors you're > using. Get some from an automotive supply place and compare the > thickness of the metal. Should be obvious. > > You can crimp the 'curl' of the faston .... just be gentle, and don't > overdo it ..... they're a b...h to push on of they're too tight!!! > Linn > >> Wayne >> rwayne(at)gamewood.net >> Checked by AVG. 6:01 PM >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Stock Lycoming
Date: Feb 15, 2009
I went down the same road. I liked the BPA engine but the cost was $8K - $10K more than the deal you get at Van's. Considering the marginal gain from the cold air induction, I decided BPA did not present a value for me. I routinely run LOP above 6000' in my RV-8A, IO-360 (O-360 back fitted with Air Flow Performance fuel injection) and dual electronic ignitions and the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. The engine runs significant cooler and smooth. I expect the same from the XIO-540 from Van's. I recently completed RV-10 near me runs 20-30 degrees LOP, 176 kts TAS at 12 GPH. This is with a Van's stock IO-540 (mags) and Hartzell prop. Bottom line, you can get more engine if you want it - if you have no issue with cost and want to routinely feed it the fuel needed to get that margin of extra performance. For me, and what I want the airplane to do, the Van's engine/prop deal is the value proposition. Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 9:37 AM Subject: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. In order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell prop combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision regarding engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection system, smoothness and overall performance compared to the BPE or other engine shop engine. I will probably install an ElectroAir ignition with one mag. Thanks in advance for the input. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
good idea........ Actually the plans to say to put it on before the motor mount, but any time is a good time. I did wind up using some pull rivets on the assembly. I also notice that you are in AZ. It may not be a bad idea to buy Alex DeDominicis' enhanced oil cooler that claims 20% more capacity than the std Van's oil cooler. With the credit you get from Van's on the std cooler, you net cost is about $120. Not a bad investment in a $35-40K engine operating in a hot climate. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230344#230344 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stock Lycoming
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
You might want to wait for OSH in July/August. Mattituck and Vans always seem to have some kind of deal going the coincides with OSH. Last year Vans had a great deal on a prop/engine combo. I got a fair deal on a Mattituck at OSH 2007. Nice engine, and Mattituck claims a 2500 hr TBO on the TMX-IO540. They throw in the freight and even provided lift gate residential delivery at no extra charge. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230347#230347 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stock Lycoming
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Mike, I've never been to OSH, but would love to go this year if I thought I could get a really good deal on an engine. What was the price tag? Andy ----- Original Message ----- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 11:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Stock Lycoming > > You might want to wait for OSH in July/August. Mattituck and Vans always > seem to have some kind of deal going the coincides with OSH. Last year > Vans had a great deal on a prop/engine combo. I got a fair deal on a > Mattituck at OSH 2007. Nice engine, and Mattituck claims a 2500 hr TBO on > the TMX-IO540. They throw in the freight and even provided lift gate > residential delivery at no extra charge. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230347#230347 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Stock Lycoming
I can't offer any performance or reliability input at this point, but I can say that the customer service and quality of assembly from Aero Sport Power is excellent ( http://www.aerosportpower.com/ ). They delivered on time and as promised and the IO-390 they built is a work of art. I went with gloss black and chrome and she is a beauty! Sue and Bart at ASP were great and emailed me photos of the build and break in processes along the way. The engine arrived in perfect condition in a very well constructed, plywood box. The 3-year warrantee from the first flight is also hard to beat. Here is a link to all of the pictures I received from ASP and also some I took of the delivery: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dralle&project=638&categ ory=2972 I also opted for an additional 10 hours of break in to get me past those initial, critical break in hours. The log book shows 11.5 hours of total run time. Also the peace of mind knowing that the engine is running great for that amount of time is comforting. The extra $1k was well worth the investment in my opinion. I won't have to sweat some extended taxi testing now... Anyway, give Bart or Sue a call at ASP and talk to them about what they can build for you. Great people; great service; great product. http://www.aerosportpower.com/ Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880/N998RV Wiring... At 07:36 AM 2/15/2009 Sunday, you wrote: >I went down the same road. I liked the BPA engine but the cost was $8K - $10K more than the deal you get at Van=92s. Considering the marginal gain from the cold air induction, I decided BPA did not present a value for me. > >I routinely run LOP above 6000=92 in my RV-8A, IO-360 (O-360 back fitted with Air Flow Performance fuel injection) and dual electronic ignitions and the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. The engine runs significant cooler and smooth. I expect the same from the XIO-540 from Van=92s. I recently completed RV-10 near me runs 20-30 degrees LOP, 176 kts TAS at 12 GPH. This is with a Van=92s stock IO-540 (mags) and Hartzell prop. > >Bottom line, you can get more engine if you want it ' if you have no issue with cost and want to routinely feed it the fuel needed to get that margin of extra performance. For me, and what I want the airplane to do, the Van=92s engine/prop deal is the value proposition. > >Carl Froehlich > >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam >>Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 9:37 AM >>To: RV-10 matronics >>Subject: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming >> >>I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. In order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell prop combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision regarding engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection system, smoothness and overall performance compared to the BPE or other engine shop engine. I will probably install an ElectroAir ignition with one mag. Thanks in advance for the input. >> >>Dave Leikam >>RV-10 #40496 >>N89DA (Reserved) >>Muskego, WI Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AML34 connectors
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Wayne, You want the AMP PIDG Faston with a 0.205" tab width. Aircraft Spruce #640917-1 for 22-18AWG. See page 470 for other wire gauges. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230366#230366 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: weight & balance program
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Lenny, I may make it this year, but not with the 10. I am hoping to have it at Sun n Fun 2010 and Oshkosh 2010. All the extras I have done has slowed down my initial estimate of Oshkosh. This is probably going to be my last airplane project, so I am spending a little extra time making things right. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230369#230369 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Subject: Stock Lycoming
... or talk to any number of equally good US based companies and keep the dollars here. I did find when I was looking at engines that the key really is apples to apples comparison. Some throw in services that others charge for like balancing. If you change one component you need to make sure it's the same with everyone. Same thing with the prop, Jim Ayres is great to work with and matches Van's prices. He gave me a really good deal on a new MT that someone ordered and changed their mind on. The Van's combo deal is a good price and I don't believe that anyone can beat it flat out, but don't expect to change or customize anything. If you want to switch out one component here and there talk to the other shops and you may find they are competitive after having to order the extra components you want. If you really want to save $$ go with a rebuilt for now and a used prop. Oh, and you don't need to actually be at OSH or anywhere else for their "deals", they take the orders like usual and the last couple times they had way more than they actually advertised. It's the old "we only have a couple left so you better order now" sales pitch. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 11:40 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming I can't offer any performance or reliability input at this point, but I can say that the customer service and quality of assembly from Aero Sport Power is excellent ( http://www.aerosportpower.com/ ). They delivered on time and as promised and the IO-390 they built is a work of art. I went with gloss black and chrome and she is a beauty! Sue and Bart at ASP were great and emailed me photos of the build and break in processes along the way. The engine arrived in perfect condition in a very well constructed, plywood box. The 3-year warrantee from the first flight is also hard to beat. Here is a link to all of the pictures I received from ASP and also some I took of the delivery: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972 I also opted for an additional 10 hours of break in to get me past those initial, critical break in hours. The log book shows 11.5 hours of total run time. Also the peace of mind knowing that the engine is running great for that amount of time is comforting. The extra $1k was well worth the investment in my opinion. I won't have to sweat some extended taxi testing now... Anyway, give Bart or Sue a call at ASP and talk to them about what they can build for you. Great people; great service; great product. http://www.aerosportpower.com/ Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880/N998RV Wiring... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
AirMike wrote: > good idea........ Actually the plans to say to put it on before the motor mount, but any time is a good time. I did wind up using some pull rivets on the assembly. > > I also notice that you are in AZ. > > It may not be a bad idea to buy Alex DeDominicis' enhanced oil cooler that claims 20% more capacity than the std Van's oil cooler. With the credit you get from Van's on the std cooler, you net cost is about $120. > Not a bad investment in a $35-40K engine operating in a hot climate. Someone recommended this breather/separator http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php Anyone know what benefit this actually has and if they recommend it? cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230383#230383 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
cjay wrote: > > > AirMike wrote: > >> good idea........ Actually the plans to say to put it on before the motor mount, but any time is a good time. I did wind up using some pull rivets on the assembly. >> >> I also notice that you are in AZ. >> >> It may not be a bad idea to buy Alex DeDominicis' enhanced oil cooler that claims 20% more capacity than the std Van's oil cooler. With the credit you get from Van's on the std cooler, you net cost is about $120. >> Not a bad investment in a $35-40K engine operating in a hot climate. >> > > > Someone recommended this breather/separator > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php > > Anyone know what benefit this actually has Yes. It covers up the results of a tired engine so you don't care. > and if they recommend it? > Absolutely not! Especially if you route the 'separated' back to the engine for 'reuse'. That's some nasty stuff. INMHO, if you're getting that much blow-by you should be entertaining the top overhaul route and washing the belly more often. Linn > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230383#230383 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Stock Lycoming
Date: Feb 15, 2009
It all depends whether a builder wants to experiment and build or fly. One of my buddies has suggested that the RV10/IO540/Hartzell Prop takeoff is like a cat shot; another just likened it to pedal down on his corvette. I have nothing against experimenting but recognize that every change you make from the original plans require adjustments and time to accomplish them. For me it is the Van's IO540/blended prop. It goes like a bullet but when you see the fuel flow on takeoff at 22 gal/hr, its time slow down and lean. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 1:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming --> ... or talk to any number of equally good US based companies and keep the dollars here. I did find when I was looking at engines that the key really is apples to apples comparison. Some throw in services that others charge for like balancing. If you change one component you need to make sure it's the same with everyone. Same thing with the prop, Jim Ayres is great to work with and matches Van's prices. He gave me a really good deal on a new MT that someone ordered and changed their mind on. The Van's combo deal is a good price and I don't believe that anyone can beat it flat out, but don't expect to change or customize anything. If you want to switch out one component here and there talk to the other shops and you may find they are competitive after having to order the extra components you want. If you really want to save $$ go with a rebuilt for now and a used prop. Oh, and you don't need to actually be at OSH or anywhere else for their "deals", they take the orders like usual and the last couple times they had way more than they actually advertised. It's the old "we only have a couple left so you better order now" sales pitch. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 11:40 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming I can't offer any performance or reliability input at this point, but I can say that the customer service and quality of assembly from Aero Sport Power is excellent ( http://www.aerosportpower.com/ ). They delivered on time and as promised and the IO-390 they built is a work of art. I went with gloss black and chrome and she is a beauty! Sue and Bart at ASP were great and emailed me photos of the build and break in processes along the way. The engine arrived in perfect condition in a very well constructed, plywood box. The 3-year warrantee from the first flight is also hard to beat. Here is a link to all of the pictures I received from ASP and also some I took of the delivery: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dralle&project=638&category 2972 I also opted for an additional 10 hours of break in to get me past those initial, critical break in hours. The log book shows 11.5 hours of total run time. Also the peace of mind knowing that the engine is running great for that amount of time is comforting. The extra $1k was well worth the investment in my opinion. I won't have to sweat some extended taxi testing now... Anyway, give Bart or Sue a call at ASP and talk to them about what they can build for you. Great people; great service; great product. http://www.aerosportpower.com/ Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880/N998RV Wiring... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2009
Thanks for the info guys. It is good to know that I am not alone in my thoughts. Without the plans for the finish kit or FWF kit, I had visions of an oopsie by installing the box early, but now I will be ordering the box kit tomorrow. One other question I had concerned treatment of the box itself. Would painting or powdercoating of the box be appropriate or are most just installing FWF stuff as bare aluminum? The idea of the improved oil cooler is interesting. I imagine that it mates to the standard support box. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230400#230400 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
Date: Feb 15, 2009
I have this ok my RV-4 and see no benefit from it. I still have an oily belly... Your mileage may very.... Sent from my iPhone On Feb 15, 2009, at 4:03 PM, "cjay" wrote: > > > AirMike wrote: >> good idea........ Actually the plans to say to put it on before the >> motor mount, but any time is a good time. I did wind up using some >> pull rivets on the assembly. >> >> I also notice that you are in AZ. >> >> It may not be a bad idea to buy Alex DeDominicis' enhanced oil >> cooler that claims 20% more capacity than the std Van's oil cooler. >> With the credit you get from Van's on the std cooler, you net cost >> is about $120. >> Not a bad investment in a $35-40K engine operating in a hot climate. > > > Someone recommended this breather/separator > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php > > Anyone know what benefit this actually has and if they recommend it? > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230383#230383 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 15, 2009
A few people have asked about removing a window that was installed with SilPruf. The weatherman said this would be a good time to take the plane down for a few days, so I decided to replace our sun-damaged window. I pulled a little plug of sealant out of the groove on the outside. I was able to pretty easily put a piece of .020 safety wire through the sealant from the inside and fish it out from the outside. Then I just pulled the wire around the perimeter of the window. It took 10 minutes to get the window out. I cleaned up the old sealant with a scraper and some Scotchbrite, and installed the new window like the others. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Subject: Re: Stock Lycoming
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Hmm, I guess I worry a bit less with my IO-360. I'll run LOP anytime above 4000 ft and 75% or less. I set the amount LOP based on power generated. The closer to 75% the leaner I want to be, maybe 40 LOP. At 70% or less, I'll run between 0-10 LOP, because that is where my engine runs smoothest, EGT and CHT temps are closest together. My engine runs cool, often in the 280-290 range, rarely above 330 in cruise. Only if EGT or CHT on a cylinder goes unexpectedly high will I abandon LOP or go significantly leaner. I don't worry about how high peak EGT goes, as I have never seen it over 1500, and it isn't a limiting factor for normally aspirated engines. Depending on OAT, peak may be anywhere from low to high 1400s. With the normally aspirated engines, the red box is somewhat smaller than for turbos, and you mainly are protecting against long term impacts of high internal combustion pressures, rather than detonation per se. From what I recall from Walt Atkinson of APS, they haven't generated true detonation on a normally aspirated engine running 100LL with stock compression ratios of 8.7 to 1 or less. I would guess you would have to be more conservative with higher compression ratios. Kelly On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 5:59 AM, Tim Olson wrote: > > I try to get the power set to 65% or less, then I lean to at least > 25 degrees LOP on the richest cylinder (last to peak). So I may > have it set anywhere from 25-70 degrees LOP depending on the day. > You do feel the power come back if you take it further LOP than > necessary. But, I always lean using the EFIS as an initial starting > point, because then I don't have to worry so much about what > density altitude and conditions I'm in. I do try to avoid EGT's > that stretch too far above 1400, so if that means leaning to > 40 or 60 LOP on a particular day, I usually do, and typically > I end up with maybe one or two that are pretty close to 1400. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Dave, Did you use this on the windshield as well? Any photos? Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 10:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal A few people have asked about removing a window that was installed with SilPruf. The weatherman said this would be a good time to take the plane down for a few days, so I decided to replace our sun-damaged window. I pulled a little plug of sealant out of the groove on the outside. I was able to pretty easily put a piece of .020 safety wire through the sealant from the inside and fish it out from the outside. Then I just pulled the wire around the perimeter of the window. It took 10 minutes to get the window out. I cleaned up the old sealant with a scraper and some Scotchbrite, and installed the new window like the others. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Any suggestions as to where to buy this stuff? Their web site wasn't very h elpful. Thanks=2C Dan From: carl.froehlich(at)cox.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal Date: Mon=2C 16 Feb 2009 10:15:40 -0500 Dave=2C Did you use this on the windshield as well? Any photos? Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Sunday=2C February 15=2C 2009 10:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal A few people have asked about removing a window that was installed with Sil Pruf. The weatherman said this would be a good time to take the plane down for a few days=2C so I decided to replace our sun-damaged window. I pulled a little plug of sealant out of the groove on the outside. I was able to pretty easily put a piece of .020 safety wire through the sealant f rom the inside and fish it out from the outside. Then I just pulled the wi re around the perimeter of the window. It took 10 minutes to get the windo w out. I cleaned up the old sealant with a scraper and some Scotchbrite=2C and ins talled the new window like the others. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville=2C CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people=2C information=2C and fun that are part of your life. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: AML34 connectors
Assuming you have the right width, I encountered the same problem with some Faston's from McMasters. I have been able to give them a gentle squeeze with pliers to tighten them up. As other's mentioned, it's easy to over-tighten too. Wayne Williams wrote: > > What connectors should I use for the Honeywell AML34 rocker switches? The > common 1/4" Fast Ons are too loose. Thanks. > > Wayne > rwayne(at)gamewood.net > > Checked by AVG. > 6:01 PM > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
I get if from these guys: http://www.halowry.com/ Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:45 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal Any suggestions as to where to buy this stuff? Their web site wasn't very helpful. Thanks, Dan _____ From: carl.froehlich(at)cox.net Subject: RE: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:15:40 -0500 Dave, Did you use this on the windshield as well? Any photos? Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 10:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: SilPruf window removal A few people have asked about removing a window that was installed with SilPruf. The weatherman said this would be a good time to take the plane down for a few days, so I decided to replace our sun-damaged window. I pulled a little plug of sealant out of the groove on the outside. I was able to pretty easily put a piece of .020 safety wire through the sealant from the inside and fish it out from the outside. Then I just pulled the wire around the perimeter of the window. It took 10 minutes to get the window out. I cleaned up the old sealant with a scraper and some Scotchbrite, and installed the new window like the others. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution _____ See how Windows connects the people, informa/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Alaska summer 2010
Date: Feb 16, 2009
I am considering organizing a flying trip (ten planes or less) to Alaska via the ALCAN highway in summer 2010, probably mid June to mid July. My guess that the trip should allow about 5-7 days each way and 7-9 days in Alaska. During the winter all the Canadian snowbirds winter in AZ, so I currently have access to people who have made the trip multiple times. I will get.be getting some of their reference materials. I haven't decided which airplane (Glastar or RV10) to take but certainly the aircraft group would have to be pretty similar to accommodate similar cruise speeds and ranges. Anyone with an interest can contact me directly via email. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Thanks! From: Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-L ist: SilPruf window removalDate: Mon=2C 16 Feb 2009 08:52:53 -0800 I get if from these guys: http://www.halowry.com/ Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville=2C CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny RiggsSent: Monday=2C February 16=2C 2009 7 :45 AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: SilPruf window rem oval Any suggestions as to where to buy this stuff? Their web site wasn't very h elpful. Thanks=2C Dan From: carl.froehlich(at)cox.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-Li st: SilPruf window removalDate: Mon=2C 16 Feb 2009 10:15:40 -0500 Dave=2C Did you use this on the windshield as well? Any photos? Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave SaylorSent: Sunday=2C February 15=2C 2009 1 0:24 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: SilPruf window remova l A few people have asked about removing a window that was installed with Sil Pruf. The weatherman said this would be a good time to take the plane down for a few days=2C so I decided to replace our sun-damaged window. I pulled a little plug of sealant out of the groove on the outside. I was able to pretty easily put a piece of .020 safety wire through the sealant f rom the inside and fish it out from the outside. Then I just pulled the wi re around the perimeter of the window. It took 10 minutes to get the windo w out. I cleaned up the old sealant with a scraper and some Scotchbrite=2C and ins talled the new window like the others. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville=2C CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution See how Windows connects the people=2C informa/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt /direct/01/' target='_new'>See Now href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
I just bought some on Amazon.com. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230536#230536 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Subject: Stock Lycoming
Here, let me do it for him. :) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:23 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming Tim, Below is the content that is ideal for the Archives (maybe with an updated Subject that contains LOP). Maybe consider removing the DNA? Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:59 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming I try to get the power set to 65% or less, then I lean to at least 25 degrees LOP on the richest cylinder (last to peak). So I may have it set anywhere from 25-70 degrees LOP depending on the day. You do feel the power come back if you take it further LOP than necessary. But, I always lean using the EFIS as an initial starting point, because then I don't have to worry so much about what density altitude and conditions I'm in. I do try to avoid EGT's that stretch too far above 1400, so if that means leaning to 40 or 60 LOP on a particular day, I usually do, and typically I end up with maybe one or two that are pretty close to 1400. Considering that I don't run LOP under about 7,000', my fuel flows are almost always 10gph or less....maybe 10.5 max, but I don't see that often. Usually 10.1 down into the 7's, depending on altitude. Common would be 8.5-10gph, as I don't get up in that 14,000-15,000' range too often. At altitudes running 10gph or so, I may commonly see 160-165kts TAS. If I'm leaner than normal, or higher, I can get down even to 155kts TAS or anywhere in that 154-165kt range. It's always an easy 3gph or more less than if I were running ROP, and generally costs me somewhere around 8 kts. The range stretches incredibly though, and I flight plan 160, and use the added range I get with LOP to give me fuel margins on my planned stops. It's really not hard to have 4.5-5 hr legs running LOP, or even more. But, you have to remember you're going to need higher flows once you start down out of altitude. The temps are nice and cool on the CHT's all the time running LOP. I would just lean to a fuel flow, and once I'm set up, I do actually use fuel flow to manage temps, but I'm hesitant to JUST use fuel flow because there are just too many variables that affect it. I figure with today's power in the EFIS's, I should use them. The Chelton's have a great leaning tool built into the engine page. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Bob and Karen Brown wrote: > > How many degrees lean of peak do you normally run at in typical cruise > settings? An example of fuel flow would be helpful. On my 7 for instance, I > typically lean to a fuel flow (say 7.5 gph) at a given cruise power setting > and density altitude, knowing that particular fuel flow will put me 40 or 50 > degrees LOP. It's a quicker setup than trying to lean to a specific LOP > number. I was just wondering how many degrees LOP you end up at. It's cool > that your temps (and by inference, your fuel flows) are balanced at those > LOP settings. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 5:56 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming > > > Hundreds of hours running LOP on my Bendix system and all is well. > There are some things you can do to better balance your injectors, > and some places will work with you on it. Bart at Aerosport > has always had an open offer with me to swap injectors to balance > the fuel flows as best I can. He balanced them originally. > They have worked so good I haven't yet taken the time to see > how much more perfect I can get them. It runs really well > LOP. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Dave Leikam wrote: >> I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. In >> order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell >> prop combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision >> regarding engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection >> system, smoothness and overall performance compared to the BPE or other >> engine shop engine. I will probably install an ElectroAir ignition with >> one mag. Thanks in advance for the input. >> >> Dave Leikam >> RV-10 #40496 >> N89DA (Reserved) >> Muskego, WI >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Stock Lycoming
Sure, it's an automatic, but here you go, I'll remove it. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Robin Marks wrote: > > Tim, > Below is the content that is ideal for the Archives (maybe with > an updated Subject that contains LOP). Maybe consider removing the Do > Nxt Arckive? > > Robin > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:59 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming > > > I try to get the power set to 65% or less, then I lean to at least > 25 degrees LOP on the richest cylinder (last to peak). So I may > have it set anywhere from 25-70 degrees LOP depending on the day. > You do feel the power come back if you take it further LOP than > necessary. But, I always lean using the EFIS as an initial starting > point, because then I don't have to worry so much about what > density altitude and conditions I'm in. I do try to avoid EGT's > that stretch too far above 1400, so if that means leaning to > 40 or 60 LOP on a particular day, I usually do, and typically > I end up with maybe one or two that are pretty close to 1400. > Considering that I don't run LOP under about 7,000', my fuel > flows are almost always 10gph or less....maybe 10.5 max, but > I don't see that often. Usually 10.1 down into the 7's, depending > on altitude. Common would be 8.5-10gph, as I don't get up in that > 14,000-15,000' range too often. At altitudes running 10gph > or so, I may commonly see 160-165kts TAS. If I'm leaner than > normal, or higher, I can get down even to 155kts TAS or > anywhere in that 154-165kt range. It's always an easy 3gph or > more less than if I were running ROP, and generally costs me > somewhere around 8 kts. The range stretches incredibly though, > and I flight plan 160, and use the added range I get with LOP > to give me fuel margins on my planned stops. It's really not > hard to have 4.5-5 hr legs running LOP, or even more. But, > you have to remember you're going to need higher flows once > you start down out of altitude. The temps are nice and cool > on the CHT's all the time running LOP. I would just lean to > a fuel flow, and once I'm set up, I do actually use fuel flow > to manage temps, but I'm hesitant to JUST use fuel flow because > there are just too many variables that affect it. I figure > with today's power in the EFIS's, I should use them. The Chelton's > have a great leaning tool built into the engine page. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Bob and Karen Brown wrote: > >> How many degrees lean of peak do you normally run at in typical cruise >> settings? An example of fuel flow would be helpful. On my 7 for > instance, I >> typically lean to a fuel flow (say 7.5 gph) at a given cruise power > setting >> and density altitude, knowing that particular fuel flow will put me 40 > or 50 >> degrees LOP. It's a quicker setup than trying to lean to a specific > LOP >> number. I was just wondering how many degrees LOP you end up at. > It's cool >> that your temps (and by inference, your fuel flows) are balanced at > those >> LOP settings. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 5:56 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stock Lycoming >> >> >> Hundreds of hours running LOP on my Bendix system and all is well. >> There are some things you can do to better balance your injectors, >> and some places will work with you on it. Bart at Aerosport >> has always had an open offer with me to swap injectors to balance >> the fuel flows as best I can. He balanced them originally. >> They have worked so good I haven't yet taken the time to see >> how much more perfect I can get them. It runs really well >> LOP. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> >> >> Dave Leikam wrote: >>> I am close to ordering my engine. I originally wanted a BPE engine. > In >>> order to save $$ I am now leaning toward a stock XIO-540 and Hartzell > >>> prop combo from Van's. I am looking for opinions on this decision >>> regarding engine reliability, LOP operation with Bendix injection >>> system, smoothness and overall performance compared to the BPE or > other >>> engine shop engine. I will probably install an ElectroAir ignition > with >>> one mag. Thanks in advance for the input. >>> >>> Dave Leikam >>> RV-10 #40496 >>> N89DA (Reserved) >>> Muskego, WI >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Is this stuff paintable? Dan > Subject: RV10-List: Re: SilPruf window removal > From: lenard(at)rapiddecision.com > Date: Mon=2C 16 Feb 2009 10:15:41 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I just bought some on Amazon.com. > > Lenny > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230536#230536 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people=2C information=2C and fun that are part of your life. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-186 Oil cooler box
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Alex DeDominicis' enhanced oil cooler mates exactly as the Vans same screws, etc -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230563#230563 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: NACA vent part #
Hi RV-10ers, Could someone please post the part number for -10=92s RH NACA vent. I=92ve got the aluminum eyeball vents and not sure if I over tightened the screws, the extra weight of the Aluminum eyeballs, Canadian cold or what but the face of my cheap plastic NACA vent flange broke off in flight making for a nasty breeze. Sorry to be a bother but I=92m 1500 miles from my manual and would like to get the part on its way. Sure hope I can separate the flange from the rest of the vent and just re-glue in that =BD of the part and not mess with the outside finish by replacing the whole vent. Thanks, Perry Casson C-FMHP 100 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Drilling Mid and tailcone Longerons
From: "Y-it" <wyattwest(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Hello all, I've got my tailcone temporarily attached to the fuse (awesome to see it come together), the mid fuse longerons do not have the bolt holes in the aft marked for match drilling to the tailcone longeron. I'm guessing since this was a QB kit thats the reason I don't have the template to actually make the longerons. I've combed through the plans and I can't find any reference for bolt spacing. Any help in this area would be helpful, of course Vans is closed today ;( Thank! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230580#230580 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Gasket between airbox and fuel injection system
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Hi Michael, There's no gasket between mine. I don't think you'd want bits of any gasket or sealant breaking off and entering here. John 40315 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Saturday, 14 February 2009 8:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Gasket between airbox and fuel injection system I didn't find anywhere a remark that a gasket is required between the airbox and the fuel injection system. is that correct? See attached picture. Kind regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230163#230163 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0231_741.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drilling Mid and tailcone Longerons
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
4 bolts 3/4" on center start 3/8 from the end to the center of the first hole -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230589#230589 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NACA vent part #
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
If you need one right now i could overnight mine to you in the morning. I get half price fedex rates... Let me know. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230599#230599 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 16, 2009
The instructions say no. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:57 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: SilPruf window removal Is this stuff paintable? Dan > Subject: RV10-List: Re: SilPruf window removal > From: lenard(at)rapiddecision.com > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:15:41 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I just bought some on Amazon.com. > > Lenny > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230536#230536 > >== > > > _____ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. See Now ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: Drilling Mid and tailcone Longerons
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Plans page 32-3 Sent from my iPhone On Feb 16, 2009, at 6:48 PM, "Y-it" wrote: > > Hello all, > I've got my tailcone temporarily attached to the fuse (awesome to > see it come together), the mid fuse longerons do not have the bolt > holes in the aft marked for match drilling to the tailcone > longeron. I'm guessing since this was a QB kit thats the reason I > don't have the template to actually make the longerons. I've combed > through the plans and I can't find any reference for bolt spacing. > Any help in this area would be helpful, of course Vans is closed > today ;( > Thank! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230580#230580 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2009
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: RE: NACA vent part #
Thanks for the link Tim, glad to see then sell them un-bonded, now as long as I can get the one in the plane to come apart without damage to the outer piece my worries are over. And Lenny thanks very much for the kind offer to lend a part, I've got it all duct taped up and flyable I can wait for the Vans order to arrive. Perry >If you need one right now i could overnight mine to you in the morning. I get half >price fedex rates... Let me know. > >Lenny ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
Dan, Here's the Amazon link for Silpruf: http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1234844526/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?ie=UTF8&rs=&keywords=silpruf&rh=i:aps,k:silpruf,i:tools or you can get it here http://www.dkhardware.com/product-3620-scs2003-black-ge-silpruf-silicone-sealant.html for a couple dollars cheaper. I just trust Amazon a little more... Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230611#230611 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drilling Mid and tailcone Longerons
From: "Y-it" <wyattwest(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Feb 16, 2009
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport wrote: > Plans page 32-3 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Feb 16, 2009, at 6:48 PM, "Y-it" wrote: > > > > > > > > Hello all, > > I've got my tailcone temporarily attached to the fuse (awesome to > > see it come together), the mid fuse longerons do not have the bolt > > holes in the aft marked for match drilling to the tailcone > > longeron. I'm guessing since this was a QB kit thats the reason I > > don't have the template to actually make the longerons. I've combed > > through the plans and I can't find any reference for bolt spacing. > > Any help in this area would be helpful, of course Vans is closed > > today ;( > > Thank! > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 30580#230580 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Page 32-3 on my plans don't show any detail for measurements, and I don't seem to have the template for the longerons. I got called in for baby duty anyhow, so It didn't turn out to be a big letdown in the end! (Well from a plane building standpoint I guess it did) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230616#230616 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I am trying to install the tie rods on the bottom of the engine and am getting interference from the aluminum oil lines down there. Is there an anti-chafe material that I can use there or do I have to cut new oil lines to avoid any contact with the tie rods. It seems like kind of a foolish system for controlling the baffles. Why not just screw tabs on each cylinder? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230636#230636 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
Date: Feb 17, 2009
High temp spital wrap from McMaster Carr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 5:56 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tie rods on baffles and chafe I am trying to install the tie rods on the bottom of the engine and am getting interference from the aluminum oil lines down there. Is there an anti-chafe material that I can use there or do I have to cut new oil lines to avoid any contact with the tie rods. It seems like kind of a foolish system for controlling the baffles. Why not just screw tabs on each cylinder? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230636#230636 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I don't have the plans here but if I remember correctly, the plans calls for cutting some of the provided clear plastic tubing. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230668#230668 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
Exactly, here's some links to some pics: http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC04994.html http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC04995.html http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC04996.html http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF2%20Baffling%20and%20Plenum/slides/DSC04997.html Deems Davis # 406 close http://deemsrv10.com/ orchidman wrote: > > I don't have the plans here but if I remember correctly, the plans calls for cutting some of the provided clear plastic tubing. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
Slip a length of tubing over the tie rods. The lower parts of the baffles don't have to be perfect .... tighten the nuts to snug the aluminum up but not stretch the tab. Also, use washers under the nuts (bigger is better) and Locktite one nut so that you can remove the other nut and slip the tierod out. Linn AirMike wrote: > > I am trying to install the tie rods on the bottom of the engine and am getting interference from the aluminum oil lines down there. Is there an anti-chafe material that I can use there or do I have to cut new oil lines to avoid any contact with the tie rods. It seems like kind of a foolish system for controlling the baffles. Why not just screw tabs on each cylinder? > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230636#230636 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Thanks for the link. I am doing the windows as soon as I get this stuff in. One more question..... there is a flange about 3/4" wide that the plexiglas s will sit on where the Silpruf will be bedded. Since the Silpruf is white (I presume) what do you do about the white ring that will be left around ea ch pane where the Silpruf will show thru? If it's clear then the pink canop y will show thru. Do you paint the fiberglass first to eliminate this? I'm just trying to visualize the procedure before applying the $18 per tube stu ff. Thanks again=2C Dan > Subject: RV10-List: Re: SilPruf window removal > From: lenard(at)rapiddecision.com > Date: Mon=2C 16 Feb 2009 20:28:19 -0800 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Dan=2C > > Here's the Amazon link for Silpruf: > > http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1234844526/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?ie=UTF8&r s=&keywords=silpruf&rh=i:aps=2Ck:silpruf=2Ci:tools > > or you can get it here http://www.dkhardware.com/product-3620-scs2003-bla ck-ge-silpruf-silicone-sealant.html for a couple dollars cheaper. I just tr ust Amazon a little more... > > Lenny > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230611#230611 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5 50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
Recently my wife has been interested in learning to fly. She would probably do her 40 hours and get her certificate but then may or may not ever fly alone from that point on. She would just love to do it, and be able to do it if she wants to. It opens the doors, anyway. So I checked in to ask about insurance effects of things like: Adding another pilot with 200hrs in RV-10's. Adding my dad who would have over 300 hours TT, just in case some day I would consider letting him fly it. Adding my wife for either training, or just post-training, so that she can be listed. See the bottom of the email for final comments, but... What I found was: "It should not cost to add a 200 make and model pilot" Therefore, if I called and said I wanted Scott to be listed on my policy, probably wouldn't cost me a penny. ---- "Their min pilot requirement is PVT 300 total hours, he would need 5 hours of dual." So that portion of the reply means, yeah, I can add my dad to the policy, but he needs to for sure have 300 hours total time, and needs 5 hours of dual. (or with AIG, 250 but the dual from Mike or Alex). ---- And regarding my wife: "Your training plan for your wife sounds good but unfortunately Global would not add your wife until she is a PVT pilot with 300 total hours, this is their minimum pilot requirements for this aircraft. AIG is PVT 250 Total with IFR and must have dual with Mike Seager or Alex DeDominicis." "I could try another company with her having 100 total hours but the premium will come in higher then your current premium with Global." (I say...no sh1t) :) ----- So this is just put out there to illustrate the importance of piloting time prior to insuring your RV-10. Notice that AIG wants 250+Instrument rating. Global wants 300. Yeah, you may find insurance out there for someone with less hours, but I've basically come to the conclusion that there is no way that I can bother to add my wife to the policy until she has at least 100 if not 300 hours. For someone who's building the RV-10 to use for instruction....who wants to actually get their pilot cert in it, or who JUST got their pilot cert and now wants a plane, I really think you should consider buying a spam can for 2-3 years, and flying 100 hrs per year first. It will help your rates. Or at least plan to build a pretty trimmed down RV-10, that doesn't cost a fortune, and just don't insure the hull for a few years. Insurance is going to be a tough topic for I'm sure a couple hundred of you builders at least, so I figured it's good to keep the dialog open. Now, for those of us flying, it's OUR job to FLY SAFE and not have any claims. Remember that we may be "nice guys" (or maybe not...:)) to the RV-10 community, but we're certainly not being good to our fellow builders if we do stupid and reckless things and cause claims, or especially death, in our model of aircraft. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Dan, You can get the silpruf in white, black, gray and bronze. I'm planning on using the black one like Dave did. Before gluing the window in, you apply a very light coat on the glass where the window flange goes, and it will give it a uniform black color. Let that dry for a day and then you glue in the window. I think it's worth getting the videotape from Airlinktech. Looks like they sell the silpruf too, but they only have white and gray: http://mall.igfarm.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=airlinktech&Category_Code=Supplies I need to mention that i hate VHS. I needed to borrow a VHS player and then the tape was stuck, so i had to open it up and straighten out the guts inside before it would start playing... Check out Dave's writeup about this at: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=39388 For what it's worth, Cirrus uses the aluminum color silicone on their windows. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230688#230688 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gasket between airbox and fuel injection system
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Thank you John! Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230695#230695 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: SilPruf window removal
Danny; I bought the black. It is not paintable. If I had to do it again, paint a small ring of black at the edge where the silpruf meets the fiberglass. It would help the painters get a crisper line . I really like the way the windows came out. I think it makes for a very nice installation. If you are going to paint before you fly, you could leave out the last fillet until _after_ final paint. That way, you could get the silpruf to cover the paint as it wraps over the edge of the fiberglass. It would look really slick then. Dr Fred. Danny Riggs wrote: > Thanks for the link. I am doing the windows as soon as I get this > stuff in. > One more question..... there is a flange about 3/4" wide that the > plexiglass will sit on where the Silpruf will be bedded. Since > the Silpruf is white (I presume) what do you do about the white ring > that will be left around each pane where the Silpruf will show thru? > If it's clear then the pink canopy will show thru. Do you paint the > fiberglass first to eliminate this? I'm just trying to visualize the > procedure before applying the $18 per tube stuff. Thanks again, Dan > > > > Subject: RV10-List: Re: SilPruf window removal > > From: lenard(at)rapiddecision.com > > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:28:19 -0800 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > > Dan, > > > > Here's the Amazon link for Silpruf: > > > > > http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1234844526/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?ie=UTF8&rs=&keywords=silpruf&rh=i:aps,k:silpruf,i:tools > > > > or you can get it here > http://www.dkhardware.com/product-3620-scs2003-black-ge-silpruf-silicone-sealant.html > for a couple dollars cheaper. I just trust Amazon a little more... > > > > Lenny > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230611#230611 > > > > > Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > >= > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. > Learn Now > <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns%21550F681DAD532637%215295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_getmore_092008> > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Robert Cullinan <n2756c(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: "new" builder
Hello =0AAll.=0A =0AI=99m also a new RV10 builder (kit =0A40520). Cu rrently finishing the fuselage and waiting on a April delivery of QB =0Awin gs. I=99ve been reading the postings on and off for a few months and =0Aappreciate all the information. I have a flying RV9A completed in 2005 . =0A =0ARobert =0ACullinan=0Awww.pilotlights.net=0A =0A(We make the LED i nstrument light =0Astrips sold by Van=99s, Stein and others)=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I took the time to really get my workshop cleaned up and while working through my "to be used" parts I came across a 4th push pull cable (cabin heat type). I will have two for cabin heat (rear & front) one for alternative air for the airbox. So why is there a forth since it came with the kit? Am I missing something here? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230713#230713 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Carb heat for o-540's ? Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) I took the time to really get my workshop cleaned up and while working through my "to be used" parts I came across a 4th push pull cable (cabin heat type). I will have two for cabin heat (rear & front) one for alternative air for the airbox. So why is there a forth since it came with the kit? Am I missing something here? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230713#230713 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I have it also. If you installed the air cut off door in the front of the air box, then you would use it. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230718#230718 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Ok great thanks guys, that will come as a spare one since I have an IO-540. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#230719 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Also, I used mine for air control to the "new" oil cooler I just put in. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) Ok great thanks guys, that will come as a spare one since I have an IO-540. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#230719 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009
Date: Feb 17, 2009
AirCrafters will be holding our "Composites for RV-10s" class again May 9 & 10 (Saturday and Sunday), 2009. More information is available here: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm We will cover all of the composite parts, including the fitting of a cabin top. The class consists of equal parts lecture and hands-on work. Wear old clothes! Although the cabin top and doors are specific to RV-10s, the class is a good primer for any aircraft-related composite work. Please email or call if you would like us to fit your top during the class--no charge! Again, rides will be available in our RV-10, weather permitting. Class size is limited to 15 builders. Cost is $350. We get a lot of very positive feedback, so sign up early! Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Started
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Sean Welcome to the RV-10 world. I am serial number 40865 June 2008 and am just about to start the riveting of the Horz stab. I have enjoyed every hour and the friendship that comes with building the rv-10. Also I would recommend that you find an EAA chapter near you to join there great people doing what we all love. Congrats and don't worry about mistakes we all make them. 1 word of the wise is when you do your inventory make sure to organize everything well. It will prevent you from reordering parts you can not find, then when they show up you find the lost ones. Don't ask me how I know that routine but I have a set of spare Hors rear spar center hinge brackets if any one needs a set. Enjoy, I truly am. 40864 Priming Horv stab parts. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 6:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Started Hello everyone, My name is Sean Strasburg and I just started my RV-10. I wanted to introduce myself and make sure I am doing this right. I received my empennage on the 3rd and now I am getting ready to rivet the VS. I have already learned a lot from reading this matronics list. Also, I wanted to thank Scott Schmidt for helping me with the stupid questions starting my kit and getting me a ride in his wonderful RV-10. Serial 40936 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
Any pictures of the "new oil cooler" installation please Rene?=0A=0ARegards =0A=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299=C2- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Rene Felker <rene@f elker.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 18 February, 20 09 6:45:04 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cable ne(at)felker.com>=0A=0AAlso, I used mine for air control to the "new" oil cool er I just put in.=0A=0ARene' Felker=0ARV-10 N423CF Flying=0A801-721-6080=0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael=0AWel lenzohn=0ASent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:50 PM=0ATo: rv10-list@matroni cs.com=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin he wellenzohn.net>=0A=0AOk great thanks guys, that will come as a spare one si nce I have an IO-540.=0A=0ACheers=0AMichael=0A=0A--------=0ARV-10 builder ( engine, prop, finishing)=0A#511=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here: =0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#230719=0A=0A=0A - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, L ==========0A=0A=0A Make Yahoo!7 your homepage and wi n a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find out more ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I don=99t have any pictures, but the new cooler is the one Alex sells and I put a butterfly valve on the back of the baffling in order to control the airflow. I can=99t remember who I bought the butterfly valve from..I will have to look that up at home. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 2:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) Any pictures of the "new oil cooler" installation please Rene? Regards Patrick Pulis RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP Adelaide, South Australia _____ From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com> Sent: Wednesday, 18 February, 2009 6:45:04 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) Also, I used mine for air control to the "new" oil cooler I just put in. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) Ok great thanks guys, that will come as a spare one since I have an IO-540. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#23071ics.com/Navigat or?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#230719> " target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - _= --> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> _____ Make Yahoo!7 your <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> homepage and win a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find out more <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/homepage/mailtagline/*http:/au.docs.yahoo.com/hom epageset/?p1=other&p2=au&p3=tagline> . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Weld-on 10 void
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Finally got all transparencies installed. I noticed a few crazing cracks on the rear windows and we did not use clamps in those areas, nothing major. Installed the windscreen today and we have a small void on the flange one one side with the weld-on 10. Apparently some of the glue ran down before we placed the windscreen. An area about two inches long is filled only 1/2 the width. The forward edge is void. Would it be possible to fill this void with epoxy in a syringe , no weld -on left? All other flanges 99% filled, very pleased. This is my first post on Matronics, I'm a regular on VAF, hope that's OK with you guy's. I've been doing some research here for a while. Thanks Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230765#230765 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Weld-on 10 void
Date: Feb 17, 2009
I would just leave a small void like that alone. There's plenty more holding in the screen. If you need to touch it up for cosmetics, go ahead, but don't worry about a failure. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B. Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 3:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Weld-on 10 void Finally got all transparencies installed. I noticed a few crazing cracks on the rear windows and we did not use clamps in those areas, nothing major. Installed the windscreen today and we have a small void on the flange one one side with the weld-on 10. Apparently some of the glue ran down before we placed the windscreen. An area about two inches long is filled only 1/2 the width. The forward edge is void. Would it be possible to fill this void with epoxy in a syringe , no weld -on left? All other flanges 99% filled, very pleased. This is my first post on Matronics, I'm a regular on VAF, hope that's OK with you guy's. I've been doing some research here for a while. Thanks Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230765#230765 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Note that the build manual seems to recommend that you use the supplied plastic pipe (it only says something about 1/4" tube. ) The supplied tube that I see is Parker Parflex N 1/4" x .035 tube. This tubing is only good to 193 degrees if it is the Nylon tube shown in Parker's manual. Correct me if I am wrong......please -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230793#230793 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Started
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Does anybody know if the proseal comes in the wing kit for the tanks or do I have to buy it separately? -------- A&P, ATP typed CE-525(s), CE-500 RV-10 emp started!!!! N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230794#230794 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Started
You buy it separately. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Strasnuts wrote: > > Does anybody know if the proseal comes in the wing kit for the tanks or do I have to buy it separately? > > -------- > A&P, ATP > typed CE-525(s), CE-500 > RV-10 emp started!!!! > N801VR reserved > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230794#230794 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe
Date: Feb 17, 2009
Mine melted like wax. But somehow the tie rod doesn't rub the oil lines, so the tubing isn't needed in my case. But those lines are pretty delicate and if anything is close to touching them, then you'll have to do something to prevent contact.. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 8:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tie rods on baffles and chafe Note that the build manual seems to recommend that you use the supplied plastic pipe (it only says something about 1/4" tube. ) The supplied tube that I see is Parker Parflex N 1/4" x .035 tube. This tubing is only good to 193 degrees if it is the Nylon tube shown in Parker's manual. Correct me if I am wrong......please -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230793#230793 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
I took this course a little over a year ago. It was the best thing I've ever done (except for marrying my lovely wife of 40 years - in case she reads this). I would highly recommend it. In fact, if I lived closer I'd go again. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230862#230862 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
I was in the same class as John and agree, it is worth every penny. I am finishing up my windows right now and I am sure it has saved me weeks of work and no telling how much re-do that I didn't have to re-do because I did right the first time. I cut, and trimmed to fit my top in one day. Do it wrong and you may get to buy another one. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230878#230878 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 void
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Decided to fill the void with epoxy. I used a syringe and filled the void with no problem. One of those things that shouldn't hurt and only takes a few minutes. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230882#230882 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Flying your 10 will be even better, than the class, that is. Thanks, John and George. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 11:12 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009 --> I took this course a little over a year ago. It was the best thing I've ever done (except for marrying my lovely wife of 40 years - in case she reads this). I would highly recommend it. In fact, if I lived closer I'd go again. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230862#230862 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-on 10 void
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Thanks Tim Are you planning to go to Sun & Fun? We plan to make arrangements tomorrow (commercially) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230910#230910 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be appreciated. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
You could try swapping the injector with whatever cylinder is first to peak. dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be appreciated. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945 > > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
From: "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
One other option, get your CFI and have your wife log time with you while in your RV-10. A cheap way to build total time to reduce insurance costs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230953#230953 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Longtime Lurker
From: "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Just wanted to finally say Hi to the RV-10 group. I'm number 40740, have been building since July 2007. I'm finished with my emp and wings and am waiting for my fuse which won't be here till April. I live near Melbourne, Florida. Love the forum and I read most of the posts as they come into my email inbox, I've learned alot and enjoy the building process, Hello all! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230955#230955 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
A few years back there was talk of an experimental version of fuel injector that changed an insert in the injector rather than the whole injector like Gami. I googled to try and find them, but came up empty. You might switch the #$ injector with the one that peaks first to see if it will help even things out. Linn dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be appreciated. > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
Date: Feb 18, 2009
You can try these guys. You can replace individual nozzles. I am in the process of doing it this annual cycle......no results yet. I collected the data, put it in excel and sent it to them and they provided me restrictor recommendations......... Let you know how it works. http://www.airflowperformance.com/ Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 8:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be appreciated. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Feb 19, 2009
I didn't think the HP endorsement was applicable to experimentals..pardon my ignorance if I'm off base on that.. Rick Sked 40185 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:47:33 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
What a crock, typical SDL FSDO! I have yet to figure out what the "big" deal is about HP endorsement. I've flown both Aztec 250 and a Mooney 231. Neither had the need for rudder nor acceleration that my 200 hp(+/- 5%) Mooney has, because of their greater weight. They didn't land much different either. Based on prior flight in the Aztec I'm grandfathered for HP anyway. What the heck would you put in a syllabus to "train" someone for HP endorsement that already has complex endorsement? Be aware of extra P factor on takeoff and extra potential sink rate on approach? On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 8:47 PM, David McNeill wrote: > One other thing; be sure and get your high performance endorsement along the > way. I had planned to offer RV10 transition training in the Phoenix area but > after submitting the plan to the FSDO, the subject of the high performance > endorsement surfaced. I was told that I could not sign a HP endorsement as a > part of the transition because that could be accomplished in certified > aircraft (even though a person will not be considered proficient in an RV10 > without the instruction for it.). Upon hearing that I decided that I don't > need to do this and canned the paperwork > > COM CFII A&P. > ________________________________ > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Longtime Lurker
That's what I like about the forum too....the fact that it just comes into your inbox. It makes it possible for you to ask a question via email while you're building on a Sunday afternoon, and then just go back to building, and every time you hear the little "You've got mail" ding, you can see if you got the answer yet. I know as I was building, there were many days that I had my question answered and I could keep on happily building. It's also nice if you have a smartphone. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying doctornigel wrote: > > > Just wanted to finally say Hi to the RV-10 group. I'm number 40740, > have been building since July 2007. I'm finished with my emp and > wings and am waiting for my fuse which won't be here till April. I > live near Melbourne, Florida. Love the forum and I read most of the > posts as they come into my email inbox, I've learned alot and enjoy > the building process, Hello all! > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
Hi David, As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine to see if you can get the high and low's closer together. That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a flow system to check and balance them. You may be able to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they can match them up for you. Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to > run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the > other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 > degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled > locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be > willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had > GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't > want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard > Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be > appreciated. > > -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
Date: Feb 18, 2009
The way I read the FAR 61.31 (f) it is required to be "legal". The response I received was not that a person would not be HP qualified by the time I finished RV10 transition training but that I could not sign their book on the transition training basis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 9:18 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy What a crock, typical SDL FSDO! I have yet to figure out what the "big" deal is about HP endorsement. I've flown both Aztec 250 and a Mooney 231. Neither had the need for rudder nor acceleration that my 200 hp(+/- 5%) Mooney has, because of their greater weight. They didn't land much different either. Based on prior flight in the Aztec I'm grandfathered for HP anyway. What the heck would you put in a syllabus to "train" someone for HP endorsement that already has complex endorsement? Be aware of extra P factor on takeoff and extra potential sink rate on approach? On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 8:47 PM, David McNeill wrote: > One other thing; be sure and get your high performance endorsement > along the way. I had planned to offer RV10 transition training in the > Phoenix area but after submitting the plan to the FSDO, the subject of > the high performance endorsement surfaced. I was told that I could not > sign a HP endorsement as a part of the transition because that could > be accomplished in certified aircraft (even though a person will not > be considered proficient in an RV10 without the instruction for it.). > Upon hearing that I decided that I don't need to do this and canned > the paperwork > > COM CFII A&P. > ________________________________ > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Wing Rib OOPS
Date: Feb 18, 2009
Page 14-3 step 5. Tonight I was riveting the W-1025B-R Flap hinge rib and W-1025A Flap hinge bracket to one of the W-1011-L inboard wing ribs and my rivet gun slipped. Bottom line is that I "smilied" the flap hinge rib a little bit below one of the rivets. I'll attach pictures for details. Is there enough strength in the rest of the rib/rivets to leave it alone or do I need to fix it??? If I need to fix it could I cut a doubler to go over the damaged hole and to the rivets surrounding the damaged hole??? Also, while I'm at it, I'm only building the left wing so far as I go. When I go back to the right wing are all of the wing ribs the same as the instructions say for the left wing or do I put a -R rib where a -L rib is shown in the instructions? I know--clear as mud, right?. I remember some discussion about this subject a few years ago and don't remember the answers. Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Subject: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009
Date: Feb 19, 2009
Ditto on this. I attended the same class as John and Gary and can't recommend it highly enough. During the few days we went over procedures on all the composite parts and any other topics the class had questions about. Having Dave's completed plane right next to us in the hanger for reference was very helpful as well. After returning home I comfortably finished most of the canopy trimming in an afternoon. Being able to hang out and compare notes with all the other builders was also great as were the trips aloft in Dave's RV-10. If you are unsure about the composite work and can make the class, it is money very well spent. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 12:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009 I was in the same class as John and agree, it is worth every penny. I am finishing up my windows right now and I am sure it has saved me weeks of work and no telling how much re-do that I didn't have to re-do because I did right the first time. I cut, and trimmed to fit my top in one day. Do it wrong and you may get to buy another one. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Engine, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230878#230878 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
From: "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2009
Like I said get your CFI for your wife to build time sitting next to you, that is if you don't need the hours to reduce your insurance. I wouldn't suggest that you give your wife private pilot instruction. Most couple's dynamics couldn't handle that and the cost of divorce is WAY more than the cost of building time. As for the HP endorsement, I always wondered why they had it until I went to FCI in Pheonix for upset/spin training. At altitude my instructor trimmed us for landing config in an Extra300 and then gave me the stick and asked me to firewall the throttle. Amazing that we were upside-down within a one revolution of the prop. HP endorsement is a hand me down from military training where after private pilot and T-41 training (C172) the next step was a 300-450HP P-force beast. They had to set the bar somewhere and it was at 200HP. I did my RV-10 time already with Alex even though I'm 2 years from flying. I plan on doing some more time right before I'm done building. I reluctantly agreed to let a test pilot do first flight, but I still have time to wiggle outta that promise, might cost me some jewelry though. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231008#231008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
Date: Feb 19, 2009
Do the first flight if you have the experience. My wife wanted me to have someone else fly first but try as I would I could not get another test pilot insured unless I paid to send him to TX or OR for transition training. My only advice would be to get a standing start takeoff with the training. My one hour with Alex had him making the only standing start takeoff. I had flown my Glastar into his airpark where winds were 40 degree crosswind at 15G27. So my first flight push of the power lever forward completely was an eye opener. And yes I am giving my wife pinch hitter training. She insisted. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of doctornigel Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 4:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy Like I said get your CFI for your wife to build time sitting next to you, that is if you don't need the hours to reduce your insurance. I wouldn't suggest that you give your wife private pilot instruction. Most couple's dynamics couldn't handle that and the cost of divorce is WAY more than the cost of building time. As for the HP endorsement, I always wondered why they had it until I went to FCI in Pheonix for upset/spin training. At altitude my instructor trimmed us for landing config in an Extra300 and then gave me the stick and asked me to firewall the throttle. Amazing that we were upside-down within a one revolution of the prop. HP endorsement is a hand me down from military training where after private pilot and T-41 training (C172) the next step was a 300-450HP P-force beast. They had to set the bar somewhere and it was at 200HP. I did my RV-10 time already with Alex even though I'm 2 years from flying. I plan on doing some more time right before I'm done bui! lding. I reluctantly agreed to let a test pilot do first flight, but I still have time to wiggle outta that promise, might cost me some jewelry though. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231008#231008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 19, 2009
Thanks for the replies. I am going to contact Airflow Performance. Sure am enjoying flying this airplane! :D -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231015#231015 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 19, 2009
I'm a very low time pilot so definitely fall in this category. Is insurance somehow mandatory?? I understand liability issues. I also understand that a hangar lease may require insurance. Other than that, and avoiding philosophical discussion, if I'm willing to take the risk as to physical damage to myself, the plane and potential liability exposure to others for my actions,, is insurance mandatory?? Equally, I'm fully aware of an obligation to advise any passenger of the fact that there's no direct insurance coverage. Thanks, Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231022#231022 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
Date: Feb 19, 2009
I don't know of a mandatory insurance requirement for ground or flight operations. If one is comfortable with the possibility of funding the liability or hull losses (many of which are beyond one's control or knowledge) out of one's own checkbook,then no insurance; no problem. I don't think a verbal warning of no insurance is going to fly with any plaintiff's lawyer if the offender has any assets left. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 6:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy I'm a very low time pilot so definitely fall in this category. Is insurance somehow mandatory?? I understand liability issues. I also understand that a hangar lease may require insurance. Other than that, and avoiding philosophical discussion, if I'm willing to take the risk as to physical damage to myself, the plane and potential liability exposure to others for my actions,, is insurance mandatory?? Equally, I'm fully aware of an obligation to advise any passenger of the fact that there's no direct insurance coverage. Thanks, Tom H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231022#231022 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
tomhanaway wrote: > > I'm a very low time pilot so definitely fall in this category. > Is insurance somehow mandatory?? > No. > I understand liability issues. I also understand that a hangar lease may require insurance. > I just reduced my insurance by going from 'in motion' to 'not in motion' ..... which meets the requirements for my hangar lease. > Other than that, and avoiding philosophical discussion, if I'm willing to take the risk as to physical damage to myself, the plane and potential liability exposure to others for my actions,, is insurance mandatory?? Again, no it isn't. None of my airplanes are insured for hull. My history for my Pitts S-1 serves as my thoughts. When I built it, the first flight was insured with hull equal to the value of the plane because I didn't have any "Pitts" experience. The hull insurance was an extra $1000. I dropped it after the first year, my reasoning being that if I hadn't hurt it in a year (about 100 hours) then I wasn't liable to. It took me 13 years to hurt it. So, in the big bank in the sky, I had $12,000 to fix it .... which came to around $2500. > Equally, I'm fully aware of an obligation to advise any passenger of the fact that there's no direct insurance coverage. > That's something I should do too. I just never thought about it. The bottom line is if you can stand the complete loss .... salvage doesn't usually pay much .... or have the means to fix it, then you should be comfortable not having insurance. Just make sure that your assets are protected from a lawsuit. We've all lost friends, and their friends, in airplane accidents ..... and you have to weigh the causes with an open mind .... and compare those losses with all the successful flights we make every day. It's a gamble, and the odds are you will live to be an old pilot if you survive all your stupid mistakes. I've survived my share. Best of luck to everyone ..... just be comfortable with your insurance decision. Linn > Thanks, > Tom H. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231022#231022 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy
Very common in Alaska for pilots to go without insurance, because few have significant assets and insurance is so expensive. A more conservative compromise was to go liability only. As was mentioned, I went with liability and not in motion hull, just to protect against what could happen while plane was tied down....fire, theft, wind damage, other planes colliding into it. In fact, when I moved to AZ, I was able to get full liability and in flight hull for what the liability and not in motion cost me in Alaska. I think the not in motion coverage is a great option for homebuilders, because if you ding it, you can fix it yourself, and from the build experience you are well prepared for that kind of work. I don't know if any brokers offer it, but seems to me the ideal would be a hull coverage with a very high deductible, so they wouldn't have to pay for hangar rash, scraped wing tip, etc, but were there if you had substantial damage. linn wrote: > - > That's something I should do too. I just never thought about it. > > The bottom line is if you can stand the complete loss .... salvage > doesn't usually pay much .... or have the means to fix it, then you > should be comfortable not having insurance. Just make sure that your > assets are protected from a lawsuit. > We've all lost friends, and their friends, in airplane accidents ..... > and you have to weigh the causes with an open mind .... and compare > those losses with all the successful flights we make every day. It's > a gamble, and the odds are you will live to be an old pilot if you > survive all your stupid mistakes. I've survived my share. > Best of luck to everyone ..... just be comfortable with your insurance > decision. > Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2009
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
From: jim(at)CombsFive.Com
David, I too have a used IO540-C4B5. I pulled the entire injection system off and sent it to "Airflow Performance" for overhaul. All 6 injectors were replaced with their injectors. They can balance the fuel flow by replacing an insert in the injector once you are flying. I have not yet done this, but plan too. We are just finishing up our Phase I. You might give them a call. Great to work with and they know the engine well. Jim C 40192 - Phase I - Flying.


February 07, 2009 - February 19, 2009

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