RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eh
February 19, 2009 - March 02, 2009
-->
RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)mac.com"
Now that my engine is broken in and
running well, I am starting to run LOP
and have one injector (#4)
that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It
does not peak until
the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My
engine is a stock
IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I
am interested
in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to
get the
injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza
and
they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on
the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any
thoughts
or ideas will be appreciated.
--------
David
Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online
here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
Just checked with Falcon Insurance (EAA) They say no company writes $10k
deductible for aircraft insurance.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the
policy
Very common in Alaska for pilots to go without insurance, because few have
significant assets and insurance is so expensive. A more conservative
compromise was to go liability only. As was mentioned, I went with liability
and not in motion hull, just to protect against what could happen while
plane was tied down....fire, theft, wind damage, other planes colliding into
it.
In fact, when I moved to AZ, I was able to get full liability and in flight
hull for what the liability and not in motion cost me in Alaska.
I think the not in motion coverage is a great option for homebuilders,
because if you ding it, you can fix it yourself, and from the build
experience you are well prepared for that kind of work.
I don't know if any brokers offer it, but seems to me the ideal would be a
hull coverage with a very high deductible, so they wouldn't have to pay for
hangar rash, scraped wing tip, etc, but were there if you had substantial
damage.
linn wrote:
> -
> That's something I should do too. I just never thought about it.
>
> The bottom line is if you can stand the complete loss .... salvage
> doesn't usually pay much .... or have the means to fix it, then you
> should be comfortable not having insurance. Just make sure that your
> assets are protected from a lawsuit.
> We've all lost friends, and their friends, in airplane accidents .....
> and you have to weigh the causes with an open mind .... and compare
> those losses with all the successful flights we make every day. It's
> a gamble, and the odds are you will live to be an old pilot if you
> survive all your stupid mistakes. I've survived my share.
> Best of luck to everyone ..... just be comfortable with your insurance
> decision.
> Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1537 |
With the dicussion of LOP operation, I enclose a picture of the return from
OSH. I believe the altitude was 12000 and TAS was about 145 kts. This is the
backup EFIS being used as an engine monitor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Rib OOPS |
| From: | "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu> |
If only my mistakes were so minor. :D Think of the ribs as those that face inward
and those that face outward. Same for both wings.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231053#231053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
At what min/max should one make a change to tighten the spread? At what min
/max should one be satisfied that it is good enough without wringing out th
e last 2% that costs triple?
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Wed, 2/18/09, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
Hi David,
As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine
to see if you can get the high and low's closer together.
That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple
of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a
flow system to check and balance them. You may be able
to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they
can match them up for you.
Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of
EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it
so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning
runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors
are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
> run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the
> other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30
> degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled
> locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be
> willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had
> GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't
> want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard
> Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be
> appreciated.
>
> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
David,
Here's the do-it-yourself procedure...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Engine/engine.html#InjectorBalancing
Very worthwhile, I run 50-75 degrees LOP all the time and enjoy very
economical operation.
Randy Lervold
www.rv3works.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
>
> Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to run LOP
> and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the other 5. It
> does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30 degrees LOP. My
> engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled locally in Minnesota. I
> am interested in finding someone who will be willing to work with me to
> get the injectors matched closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza
> and they were great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on
> the Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts
> or ideas will be appreciated.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
In my case it is not an effort to wring out more performance, just need them
close enough so that the engine will run smooth and I won't damage any
cylinders. Of course, running LOP is to get better gas milage..running 50
rich a peak at ~12,000 to 14,000 I was burning 12.0 to 12.2 at speeds in the
lower 160's.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
At what min/max should one make a change to tighten the spread? At what
min/max should one be satisfied that it is good enough without wringing out
the last 2% that costs triple?
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Wed, 2/18/09, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
Hi David,
As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine
to see if you can get the high and low's closer together.
That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple
of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a
flow system to check and balance them. You may be able
to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they
can match them up for you.
Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of
EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it
so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning
runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors
are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
> run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the
> other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30
> degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled
> locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be
> willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had
> GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't
> want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard
> Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be
> appreciated.
>
> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>
>
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
Thanks Randy, Jim, and all the rest who have responded. Sounds like a
good excuse for a trip to Spartanburg for one of Airflow's private
nozzle tuning sessions is going to be in our future!
Any excuse for a cross country at this point. ^_^
David Maib
40559
On Feb 19, 2009, at 11:44 AM, Randy Lervold wrote:
David,
Here's the do-it-yourself procedure...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Engine/engine.html#InjectorBalancing
Very worthwhile, I run 50-75 degrees LOP all the time and enjoy very
economical operation.
Randy Lervold
www.rv3works.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
>
> Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
> run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to
> the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to
> 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was
> overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone
> who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched
> closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were
> great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the
> Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any
> thoughts or ideas will be appreciated.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AirCrafters Overhead Consoles--Price Reduced |
| From: | "jim mclaughlin" <jimm(at)mweltd.com> |
I had decided not to do the overhead due to cost, weight and hassle, but ordered
one from Dave anyway. It is really nice. An easy way to hide a GPS antenna connector
and trim that area.
--------
Jim McLaughlin
40154
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231092#231092
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Dave:
Don also puts on a weekend seminar about fuel injection. I have not
been but I understand it's a good program and worth the trip. Like you
said, any excuse . . . .
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
Thanks Randy, Jim, and all the rest who have responded. Sounds like a
good excuse for a trip to Spartanburg for one of Airflow's private
nozzle tuning sessions is going to be in our future!
Any excuse for a cross country at this point. ^_^
David Maib
40559
On Feb 19, 2009, at 11:44 AM, Randy Lervold wrote:
David,
Here's the do-it-yourself procedure...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Engine/engine.html#InjectorBalancing
Very worthwhile, I run 50-75 degrees LOP all the time and enjoy very
economical operation.
Randy Lervold
www.rv3works.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
>
> Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
> run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to
> the other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to
> 30 degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was
> overhauled locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone
> who will be willing to work with me to get the injectors matched
> closely. I had GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were
> great. But, I don't want to spend the money for GAMI's on the
> Lycoming. This is standard Bendix fuel injection system. Any
> thoughts or ideas will be appreciated.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230945#230945
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"One other thing; be sure and get your high performance endorsement along the way.
I had planned to offer RV10 transition training in the Phoenix area but after
submitting the plan to the FSDO, the subject of the high performance endorsement
surfaced. I was told that I could not sign a HP endorsement as a part of
the transition because that could be accomplished in certified aircraft (even
though a person will not be considered proficient in an RV10 without the instruction
for it.). Upon hearing that I decided that I don't need to do this and
canned the paperwork "
IMHO this is the FAA's typical over-reaction to a few cheaters. Just as they're
re-considering the whole 51% rule because there are a few professional builders
(rather than attacking that specific problem head-on), the FAA is afraid someone
will offer Flight Reviews in their -10 with no real intention of 'transition
training'. It's all a question of the integrity of CFI's, and the FAA is
saying that they don't trust anyone. It is of course absurd to think that any
decent transition training would not meet the requirements of a Flight Review,
a High Performance endorsement, and an IPC (for ifr rated pilots).
High Performance endorsement. As a CFI, I'd have to say that this is mostly ground
instruction in the use of the MP gauge and prop control. And maybe, but not
necessarily, a step up for the pilot in terms of speed and weight of the aircraft.
If the pilot already has experience with a constant speed prop (e.g., 172RG,
201 ) because he obtained a complex endorsement first, then I agree that
the High Performance one is redundant. Recall, there was a time when only one
endorsement sufficed for both types of aircraft; I have no idea why the FAA changed
the rules on this.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231100#231100
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
GAMI normally aims to get the cylinders within 0.5 gph between first and
last to peak, with 0.3 gph or less being very good.
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> At what min/max should one make a change to tighten the spread? At
> what min/max should one be satisfied that it is good enough without
> wringing out the last 2% that costs triple?
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB, flying
>
>
> --- On *Wed, 2/18/09, Tim Olson //* wrote:
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
>
>
> Hi David,
>
> As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine
> to see if you can get the high and low's closer together.
> That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple
> of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a
> flow system to check and balance them. You may be able
> to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they
> can match them up for you.
>
> Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of
> EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it
> so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning
> runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors
> are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
> > run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the
> > other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30
> > degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled
> > locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be
> > willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had
> > GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't
> > want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard
> > Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
If you are high enough that your engine can't produce above 65% power,
you can run at peak or perhaps 10 LOP all day long and not hurt
anything. I'd guess that at 12K you are already at or below 65%
Rene Felker wrote:
>
> In my case it is not an effort to wring out more performance, just
> need them close enough so that the engine will run smooth and I wont
> damage any cylinders. Of course, running LOP is to get better gas
> milagerunning 50 rich a peak at ~12,000 to 14,000 I was burning 12.0
> to 12.2 at speeds in the lower 160s.
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> DeRouchey
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:29 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
>
> At what min/max should one make a change to tighten the spread? At
> what min/max should one be satisfied that it is good enough without
> wringing out the last 2% that costs triple?
>
> Bill DeRouchey
>
> N939SB, flying
>
>
> --- On *Wed, 2/18/09, Tim Olson //* wrote:
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
>
>
>
>
> Hi David,
>
>
>
> As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine
>
> to see if you can get the high and low's closer together.
>
> That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple
>
> of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a
>
> flow system to check and balance them. You may be able
>
> to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they
>
> can match them up for you.
>
>
>
> Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of
>
> EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it
>
> so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning
>
> runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors
>
> are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want.
>
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am starting to
>
> > run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared to the
>
> > other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30
>
> > degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled
>
> > locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who will be
>
> > willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I had
>
> > GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't
>
> > want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is standard
>
> > Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be
>
> > appreciated.
>
> >
>
> > -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <3D>*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com <3D>*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <3D>*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injector Flow Matching |
I think I might have disremembered those numbers. I think the real guide
is at 0.5gph or greater between 1st and last to peak, GAMI or Airflow
can improve your performance, and probably get you to 0.3 or better, 0.2
or better is very good.
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> GAMI normally aims to get the cylinders within 0.5 gph between first
> and last to peak, with 0.3 gph or less being very good.
>
> Bill DeRouchey wrote:
>> At what min/max should one make a change to tighten the spread? At
>> what min/max should one be satisfied that it is good enough without
>> wringing out the last 2% that costs triple?
>>
>> Bill DeRouchey
>> N939SB, flying
>>
>>
>> --- On *Wed, 2/18/09, Tim Olson //* wrote:
>>
>> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Flow Matching
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
>>
>>
>> Hi David,
>>
>> As Kelly said, you could swap injectors on your own engine
>> to see if you can get the high and low's closer together.
>> That's one option. Otherwise, you could buy a couple
>> of other injectors swap them around too. Aerosport has a
>> flow system to check and balance them. You may be able
>> to send your injectors to a place like that and see if they
>> can match them up for you.
>>
>> Also, with the EFIS you have, you'll want to buy a copy of
>> EGView, by EGTrends. It's got a GAMI leaning module in it
>> so you can download your data on some nice slow leaning
>> runs, and it will actually tell you how far off your injectors
>> are, and what kind of flow increase/decrease you want.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>>
>> > > Now that my engine is broken in and running well, I am
>> starting to
>> > run LOP and have one injector (#4) that is a bit rich compared
>> to the
>> > other 5. It does not peak until the other cylinders are 10 to 30
>> > degrees LOP. My engine is a stock IO-540 C4B5 that was overhauled
>> > locally in Minnesota. I am interested in finding someone who
>> will be
>> > willing to work with me to get the injectors matched closely. I
>> had
>> > GAMI injectors on my old Bonanza and they were great. But, I don't
>> > want to spend the money for GAMI's on the Lycoming. This is
>> standard
>> > Bendix fuel injection system. Any thoughts or ideas will be
>> > appreciated.
>> > > -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>> > >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Tim,
As a cfi I'd say you're correct: for many couples (not necessarily all) it's probably
best for a new pilot to get instruction from someone other than his/her
spouse. This summer I instructed a college student whose father was a cfi. They
realized that the dynamic between them was not the best for a teacher-student
relationship.
As to this:
"One other option, get your CFI and have your wife log time with you
while in your RV-10. A cheap way to build total time to reduce
insurance costs."
You may well find that you're caught in a Catch-22. Most insurance policies forbid
the use of the aircraft for instruction, except instruction for the named
insured. So to do this (and maintain insurance coverage), you'll have to name
your wife on the policy. And that will cost more (as will telling them you're
going to use the plane for instruction). I cannot imagine what an insurance company
will charge to allow a student to fly solo in a -10, but it won't be cheap.
Too much speed and power.
There is another quasi-legal option for building time if your wife gets her license
at the local FBO. If your policy says that only you will act as "pilot in
command", then there is nothing wrong with allowing your wife to manipulate the
controls. And as a private pilot and the 'sole manipulator of the controls'
she can log the time (of course, you are not supposed to log this time, in this
case). At the same time you would be PIC (presumably, you'd take over if things
went wrong, or at least make the decisions. And you'd be legally responsible
for the safe and legal operation of the aircraft). Now of course a few years
down the road, when you tell the insurance company that your wife now has 400
hours, they might ask where she got them, and not like the answer! Probably
best to be up-front with them. I don't think they should have any real problem
with her flying as long as you are PIC.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231104#231104
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
To add a little more to the nose wheel discussion: I asked Rob at Grove
for his opinion of the various "fixes" available.
In his opinion the problem on the 10 and the other models in his opinion
stems from the fact that the bearing seal is rubber rather than
felt. This creates, again, in his opinion excessive wheel spin up drag
which can lead to a for and aft shimmy condition. He believes the 10
gear assy
is a better designed gear than the others with the solidly mounted gear
leg. He said while the spinning spacer issue can be stopped by any
method of securing the spacer, screw whatever, the other deficiency in
the stock design he feels is the fact that the axle bolt is unsupported
and subjected
to bending loads rather than the bolt being supported by a collar or
spacer and thus putting the bolt under a shear load only.
I did not have any of the issues with the stock parts in the first
hundred hours, but will change to the Grove wheel and axle assy anyway.
Dick Sipp
N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
This will ruffle some feathers I'm sure, but, I really think
there are a few things that will work against it for a few years
yet.
#1. A small risk-pool. We need a lot more than the
small number of RV's that would likely sign up to get the
risk pool large enough. I know it's not RV-10's ONLY
that would be part of it, but, there are less than 200
RV-10's listed as flying, and the RV-10 is the only one
of the RV's that is looking like a real insurance hurdle.
Why the hurdle? Hull value, and 4 seats. So we're unique
in our rate problmes. Many other RV-ers will be plenty happy
to just pay their normal, many years experienced, big
corporation owned insurance policy, knowing it has a
track record. I myself even at $2,750 would be hard
to pull away from a known-good-reputation company.
The hull value is what makes the rate so high, for even
someone with > 400 hours in RV-10's now, and plenty of
total time and Instrument rating. When I compare the rates
I paid on a Sundowner, really if you adjust for the hull
value differences, I'm actually paying less. This doesn't
negate any benefits of what was proposed, but it's one of
those things that I'm not willing to switch for something
that isn't a super-firmly back and stringent plan, with
real big financial benefits. I just paid $140/yr more
for Global, just because of some little additional
benefits that I'll probably never use. I don't think I'd
be willing to give up any of the added frills for even
a $500/yr or more savings.
#2. This is the kicker for me, personally. The plan that
you guys were working on was very very open, open to all,
and it didn't screen out situations to the degree that I
would be comfortable being part of.
For instance, alternative engines, low-time pilots, and
unknown build quality. The goal of the plan was to provide
lower cost insurance, and get a large pool of RV's in it.
But, if there are going to be lots of "unknowns", and some
real, true "experimenters" in it, I'm not nearly as comfortable
with the risk. Our first RV-10 crash was an experimental
engine, and the plane was built and flown with so many
questionable issues that it was a perfect illustration. I'm
very sure that had he been around to join that insurance
plan, he would have gladly joined....and nobody would have
complained a bit about it. I'm NOT saying that
alternative engines are bad, but, if you watch the track
records of accidents, they do have more incidents in
many areas. They are for those who want to do some real
experimenting. One of the other 2 crashes involved some
pretty poor airmanship, which sounds like poor autopilot/EFIS
use, or unfamiliarity. This leads into the other half
of this issue. I PERSONALLY HAVE SEEN MANY cases of real
lack of standards in our own little community. I'm sorry
if one of you readers sees yourself in this comment, but
I have seen many many situations where people have had
poor wiring, unprotected wiring, have COMPLETELY ignored
calibrations of their equipment and programming of alarm
limits, completed ENTIRE FLYOFF Periods without ever
calibrating their EFIS magnetometer, Completed 70+ hours
of flying without properly configuring an engine monitor,
and then ADJUSTING THE OIL PRESSURE on the engine because
the reading was too high, rather than set the oil pressure
sensor to the proper setting. And there is just more and
more and more. Now NONE of those people were bad people,
and none WANTED to have an issue, but some of them
have LOTS of building/flying experience yet they STILL
do not follow through with things like calibrations,
and other things. It happens just way too often, almost
consistently. This is the problem in the risk pool
that we'd have to be signing up with. At least in a
certified plane, you can reasonably expect that
Cessna/Piper/Beech have calibrated and configured the
EFIS properly, and done their diligence. Heck, if you
buy a G900 system, the dealers are supposedly REQUIRED
to complete the calibrations and setup for you...they
aren't supposed to allow you to just D-I-Y. But,
we're allowed to D-I-Y on our planes for the most part,
and not everyone actually really follows through on all
of those good suggestions. Not everyone goes for real
transition training. Not everyone builds to the same
quality standard. Not everyone has a stock plane, and
any mod is allowed.
Yeah, I know, it sounds like a pretty harsh rant.
It's not meant to discourage the people from looking
for better insurance opportunities, and it's certainly
not intended to offend anyone. I've made some
mistakes too, and forgotten things. It can happen
to anyone. But some things like not calibrating
your EFIS for 40+ hours are just plain ridiculous
in my mind, and show a real lack of common sense.
Those aren't "oops I forgots"...they're "I just really
want to get this baby flown off" things, that are the
same exact attitudes that kill people from flying
through thunderstorms. And don't even get me started
on people who don't read the manuals, watch videos,
or get to know their new EFIS systems that we all
put in our homebuilts... It's all part of being a
diligent builder and flier. Unfortunately, with
some of the flexibility we are given in building,
equipping, and and maintaining, I think there are
some valid reasons why companies are reluctant to cover
us at any real low cost. And while we aren't in the
same accident statistic category as the Lancair builders
seem to be, we still have 3 total losses with 4 fatalities
in the first 150 or so flying RV-10s, and it would be
nice if we don't see any more.
So if we had a maybe more cohesive group, that would
do some things like cross-inpections of eachother's planes,
and had some variable rates for variable risk levels
and pilot experience, then I think after we get maybe
500 flying RV-10's we may have a good opportunity.
The catch is, as in #1 above, the benefits have to be so
absolutely guaranteed that it would make even the most
happy-to-pay AIG/Global RV-10 builder jump ship and
get on board.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Bob Kaufmann wrote:
> That could be but until we get shown support it aint going to happen.
>
>
>
> Bob K
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 6:00 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on
> the policy
>
>
>
> As they say, timing is everything. I was aware that you guys were doing
> something, but I was still building and had my mind on other things.
> Now I am flying and focused on insurance issues. I suspect others are
> more interested. Now we have many more folks flying and near flying, it
> might be worth while to tap the pulse of the 10 community again and see
> if now the time is right. I know it is a lot of work, but it might be
> well worth it.
>
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Kaufmann
> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 12:18 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on
> the policy
>
>
>
> A few years back Rick and I had set up a self insurance group to solve
> these challenges, Thousands of dollars later we scrapped the idea
> because the community of RV 10s wouldnt support it for about $2500 a
> year as a cost with an estimated 10% a year rebate. Oh well, we tried.
>
>
>
> Bob K
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *KiloPapa
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 8:50 PM
> *To:* Matronics RV10 - List
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the
> policy
>
>
>
> Excellent discussion regarding insurance, flying spouses, etc.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Kevin
> 40494
> tail/empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
Quick follow up to this:
** New Slick mag SB comes out: "I'm not going to
do that right now.....these SB's/AD's don't apply
to us anyway and it's been running just fine.
** Van's releases tail bulkhead crack SB: "I don't
really think it's worth doing right now, after all,
we don't know that there's even a problem....only
Van's demo has had cracks"
Those are just another couple of examples of the types
of things you hear when a known problem is found.
Now if we were flying certified planes, we'd be forced
to deal with them in the way the companies think is
best. But we get a significant amount of comments
here that indicate that not everyone really cares to
deal with these things in a timely fashion, or maybe
at all...
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> This will ruffle some feathers I'm sure, but, I really think
> there are a few things that will work against it for a few years
> yet.
>
> #1. A small risk-pool. We need a lot more than the
> small number of RV's that would likely sign up to get the
> risk pool large enough. I know it's not RV-10's ONLY
> that would be part of it, but, there are less than 200
> RV-10's listed as flying, and the RV-10 is the only one
> of the RV's that is looking like a real insurance hurdle.
> Why the hurdle? Hull value, and 4 seats. So we're unique
> in our rate problmes. Many other RV-ers will be plenty happy
> to just pay their normal, many years experienced, big
> corporation owned insurance policy, knowing it has a
> track record. I myself even at $2,750 would be hard
> to pull away from a known-good-reputation company.
> The hull value is what makes the rate so high, for even
> someone with > 400 hours in RV-10's now, and plenty of
> total time and Instrument rating. When I compare the rates
> I paid on a Sundowner, really if you adjust for the hull
> value differences, I'm actually paying less. This doesn't
> negate any benefits of what was proposed, but it's one of
> those things that I'm not willing to switch for something
> that isn't a super-firmly back and stringent plan, with
> real big financial benefits. I just paid $140/yr more
> for Global, just because of some little additional
> benefits that I'll probably never use. I don't think I'd
> be willing to give up any of the added frills for even
> a $500/yr or more savings.
>
> #2. This is the kicker for me, personally. The plan that
> you guys were working on was very very open, open to all,
> and it didn't screen out situations to the degree that I
> would be comfortable being part of.
>
> For instance, alternative engines, low-time pilots, and
> unknown build quality. The goal of the plan was to provide
> lower cost insurance, and get a large pool of RV's in it.
> But, if there are going to be lots of "unknowns", and some
> real, true "experimenters" in it, I'm not nearly as comfortable
> with the risk. Our first RV-10 crash was an experimental
> engine, and the plane was built and flown with so many
> questionable issues that it was a perfect illustration. I'm
> very sure that had he been around to join that insurance
> plan, he would have gladly joined....and nobody would have
> complained a bit about it. I'm NOT saying that
> alternative engines are bad, but, if you watch the track
> records of accidents, they do have more incidents in
> many areas. They are for those who want to do some real
> experimenting. One of the other 2 crashes involved some
> pretty poor airmanship, which sounds like poor autopilot/EFIS
> use, or unfamiliarity. This leads into the other half
> of this issue. I PERSONALLY HAVE SEEN MANY cases of real
> lack of standards in our own little community. I'm sorry
> if one of you readers sees yourself in this comment, but
> I have seen many many situations where people have had
> poor wiring, unprotected wiring, have COMPLETELY ignored
> calibrations of their equipment and programming of alarm
> limits, completed ENTIRE FLYOFF Periods without ever
> calibrating their EFIS magnetometer, Completed 70+ hours
> of flying without properly configuring an engine monitor,
> and then ADJUSTING THE OIL PRESSURE on the engine because
> the reading was too high, rather than set the oil pressure
> sensor to the proper setting. And there is just more and
> more and more. Now NONE of those people were bad people,
> and none WANTED to have an issue, but some of them
> have LOTS of building/flying experience yet they STILL
> do not follow through with things like calibrations,
> and other things. It happens just way too often, almost
> consistently. This is the problem in the risk pool
> that we'd have to be signing up with. At least in a
> certified plane, you can reasonably expect that
> Cessna/Piper/Beech have calibrated and configured the
> EFIS properly, and done their diligence. Heck, if you
> buy a G900 system, the dealers are supposedly REQUIRED
> to complete the calibrations and setup for you...they
> aren't supposed to allow you to just D-I-Y. But,
> we're allowed to D-I-Y on our planes for the most part,
> and not everyone actually really follows through on all
> of those good suggestions. Not everyone goes for real
> transition training. Not everyone builds to the same
> quality standard. Not everyone has a stock plane, and
> any mod is allowed.
>
> Yeah, I know, it sounds like a pretty harsh rant.
> It's not meant to discourage the people from looking
> for better insurance opportunities, and it's certainly
> not intended to offend anyone. I've made some
> mistakes too, and forgotten things. It can happen
> to anyone. But some things like not calibrating
> your EFIS for 40+ hours are just plain ridiculous
> in my mind, and show a real lack of common sense.
> Those aren't "oops I forgots"...they're "I just really
> want to get this baby flown off" things, that are the
> same exact attitudes that kill people from flying
> through thunderstorms. And don't even get me started
> on people who don't read the manuals, watch videos,
> or get to know their new EFIS systems that we all
> put in our homebuilts... It's all part of being a
> diligent builder and flier. Unfortunately, with
> some of the flexibility we are given in building,
> equipping, and and maintaining, I think there are
> some valid reasons why companies are reluctant to cover
> us at any real low cost. And while we aren't in the
> same accident statistic category as the Lancair builders
> seem to be, we still have 3 total losses with 4 fatalities
> in the first 150 or so flying RV-10s, and it would be
> nice if we don't see any more.
>
> So if we had a maybe more cohesive group, that would
> do some things like cross-inpections of eachother's planes,
> and had some variable rates for variable risk levels
> and pilot experience, then I think after we get maybe
> 500 flying RV-10's we may have a good opportunity.
> The catch is, as in #1 above, the benefits have to be so
> absolutely guaranteed that it would make even the most
> happy-to-pay AIG/Global RV-10 builder jump ship and
> get on board.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>> That could be but until we get shown support it aint going to happen.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob K
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 6:00 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots
>> on the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> As they say, timing is everything. I was aware that you guys were
>> doing something, but I was still building and had my mind on other
>> things. Now I am flying and focused on insurance issues. I suspect
>> others are more interested. Now we have many more folks flying and
>> near flying, it might be worth while to tap the pulse of the 10
>> community again and see if now the time is right. I know it is a lot
>> of work, but it might be well worth it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Kaufmann
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 12:18 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots
>> on the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> A few years back Rick and I had set up a self insurance group to solve
>> these challenges, Thousands of dollars later we scrapped the idea
>> because the community of RV 10s wouldnt support it for about $2500 a
>> year as a cost with an estimated 10% a year rebate. Oh well, we tried.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob K
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *KiloPapa
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 8:50 PM
>> *To:* Matronics RV10 - List
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on
>> the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> Excellent discussion regarding insurance, flying spouses, etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kevin
>> 40494
>> tail/empennage
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
My two cents worth on the insurance issue:
It is very hard to make generalized comparisons. Insurance companies, in
addition to looking at the specific aircraft type, hull value, and aviation
experience, also look at age, location, credit ratings, and particularly
past insurance claims (including cars, boats, motorcycles, homeowners and
professional liability).
Policy limits are a big factor. It is hard to find more than $1M. Many
companies will have a maximum sub-limit per passenger of $100K for low-time
pilots and new clients. Higher sub-limits cost more, and $1M 'smooth', to
use their jargon, costs the most and is often not available to new clients
or those with limited experience.
Then you have the variability of the underwriters. They all have their own,
albeit similar, algorithms. Publicly held, privately held, non-profit and
mutual (owned by the policy holders) companies all have different profit
expectations, cost structure, discount multipliers (multi-year,
multi-aircraft, etc.), regulatory and reserve requirements, and claim
histories.
Since every pilot situation is different and every company is different, you
have to shop. I am a 350 hour instrument pilot with HP and complex
endorsements. Quotes on my Mooney ran from 1.3% to 3.5% of hull value the
first year, and a $100K sub-limit was the max they would offer. The second
year they offered a $250K sub-limit at higher cost, while the same coverage
was slightly less. Hope this helps.
Steve Roberts
N2700W 1966 M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN
(still lurking while waiting for suitable place to build my RV-10)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety Trim |
Box
Where have you been putting the FPS box? Unless you cut/splice the FPS
harness (which I really don't want to do), it would seem it almost has to go
in the tunnel where the flap motor is. How about locating the Safe trim
box? If you can direct me to some sites that would have photos of this, it
would save a thousand words.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob and Karen Brown
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 1:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the
Safety Trim Box
Where have you been putting the FPS box? Unless you cut/splice the
FPS harness (which I really don't want to do), it would seem it almost
has to go in the tunnel where the flap motor is. How about locating the
Safe trim box? If you can direct me to some sites that would have
photos of this, it would save a thousand words.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
We have had folks mount the Safety-Trim box in many places. We have a
few photo's on our website and there are few photos on the Van's
Airforce web site. However, the three places I hear about most are
1) under the front seats, 2) on the sub-panel behind the instrument
panel and 3) in the rear of the plane near the battery area. If you
visit our site you'll see the equipment trays we made for our RV-10,
that's were our Safety-trim goes. There's also a photo on the review's
page of an RV-8 with it mounted towards the back of the tail cone.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
The Safety trim can go many places. Mine is under the panel.
The FPS mounts well on the inside of the tunnel wall.
Just make sure to tie up any wires so nothing can interfere
with the flap mechanism.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
> Where have you been putting the FPS box? Unless you cut/splice the FPS
> harness (which I really dont want to do), it would seem it almost has
> to go in the tunnel where the flap motor is. How about locating the
> Safe trim box? If you can direct me to some sites that would have
> photos of this, it would save a thousand words
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
Although we don't condone the don't know and don't care attitude, we
understand the difference between an AD and an SB in the certified world.
SBs are still optional there for not for hire aircraft. I have examined the
SB for the slick mags and determined that one mag is outside the widest
envelope and the other is in the first two weeks of the earliest date.
Knowing the mentality of the lawyers,I am taking a wait and see approach and
checking to see if timing changes dramatically which will indicate the need
to do something. With respect to the Van's issued SB on the tail, We are
again watching the situation. Certified airplanes don't attract an SB for a
single airplane problem. If the problem is super serious an emergency AD
will be issued. We have had the Van's patch analyzed by friends who are
stress engineers at the big airplane company. Until they can suggest a means
to actually fixing the problem (if it exists in more than their prototype)
we inspect. Incidentally where Van's calls for AN3 bolts we are using
Hilocks which have an interference fit and have no play in the hole. So
although we have not accomplished the SBs we have seriously examined them
and will comply if we see signs of problems or the engineers come up with a
real fix rather than the doublers.
A couple of A&Ps and a couple of stress engineers.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the
policy
Quick follow up to this:
** New Slick mag SB comes out: "I'm not going to do that right
now.....these SB's/AD's don't apply to us anyway and it's been running just
fine.
** Van's releases tail bulkhead crack SB: "I don't really think it's worth
doing right now, after all, we don't know that there's even a
problem....only Van's demo has had cracks"
Those are just another couple of examples of the types of things you hear
when a known problem is found.
Now if we were flying certified planes, we'd be forced to deal with them in
the way the companies think is best. But we get a significant amount of
comments here that indicate that not everyone really cares to deal with
these things in a timely fashion, or maybe at all...
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> This will ruffle some feathers I'm sure, but, I really think there are
> a few things that will work against it for a few years yet.
>
> #1. A small risk-pool. We need a lot more than the
> small number of RV's that would likely sign up to get the risk pool
> large enough. I know it's not RV-10's ONLY that would be part of it,
> but, there are less than 200 RV-10's listed as flying, and the RV-10
> is the only one of the RV's that is looking like a real insurance
> hurdle.
> Why the hurdle? Hull value, and 4 seats. So we're unique in our rate
> problmes. Many other RV-ers will be plenty happy to just pay their
> normal, many years experienced, big corporation owned insurance
> policy, knowing it has a track record. I myself even at $2,750 would
> be hard to pull away from a known-good-reputation company.
> The hull value is what makes the rate so high, for even someone with >
> 400 hours in RV-10's now, and plenty of total time and Instrument
> rating. When I compare the rates I paid on a Sundowner, really if you
> adjust for the hull value differences, I'm actually paying less. This
> doesn't negate any benefits of what was proposed, but it's one of
> those things that I'm not willing to switch for something that isn't a
> super-firmly back and stringent plan, with real big financial
> benefits. I just paid $140/yr more for Global, just because of some
> little additional benefits that I'll probably never use. I don't
> think I'd be willing to give up any of the added frills for even a
> $500/yr or more savings.
>
> #2. This is the kicker for me, personally. The plan that you guys
> were working on was very very open, open to all, and it didn't screen
> out situations to the degree that I would be comfortable being part
> of.
>
> For instance, alternative engines, low-time pilots, and unknown build
> quality. The goal of the plan was to provide lower cost insurance,
> and get a large pool of RV's in it.
> But, if there are going to be lots of "unknowns", and some real, true
> "experimenters" in it, I'm not nearly as comfortable with the risk.
> Our first RV-10 crash was an experimental engine, and the plane was
> built and flown with so many questionable issues that it was a perfect
> illustration. I'm very sure that had he been around to join that
> insurance plan, he would have gladly joined....and nobody would have
> complained a bit about it. I'm NOT saying that alternative engines
> are bad, but, if you watch the track records of accidents, they do
> have more incidents in many areas. They are for those who want to do
> some real experimenting. One of the other 2 crashes involved some
> pretty poor airmanship, which sounds like poor autopilot/EFIS use, or
> unfamiliarity. This leads into the other half of this issue. I
> PERSONALLY HAVE SEEN MANY cases of real lack of standards in our own
> little community. I'm sorry if one of you readers sees yourself in
> this comment, but I have seen many many situations where people have
> had poor wiring, unprotected wiring, have COMPLETELY ignored
> calibrations of their equipment and programming of alarm limits,
> completed ENTIRE FLYOFF Periods without ever calibrating their EFIS
> magnetometer, Completed 70+ hours of flying without properly
> configuring an engine monitor, and then ADJUSTING THE OIL PRESSURE on
> the engine because the reading was too high, rather than set the oil
> pressure sensor to the proper setting. And there is just more and
> more and more. Now NONE of those people were bad people, and none
> WANTED to have an issue, but some of them have LOTS of building/flying
> experience yet they STILL do not follow through with things like
> calibrations, and other things. It happens just way too often, almost
> consistently. This is the problem in the risk pool that we'd have to
> be signing up with. At least in a certified plane, you can reasonably
> expect that Cessna/Piper/Beech have calibrated and configured the EFIS
> properly, and done their diligence. Heck, if you buy a G900 system,
> the dealers are supposedly REQUIRED to complete the calibrations and
> setup for you...they aren't supposed to allow you to just D-I-Y. But,
> we're allowed to D-I-Y on our planes for the most part, and not
> everyone actually really follows through on all of those good
> suggestions. Not everyone goes for real transition training. Not
> everyone builds to the same quality standard. Not everyone has a
> stock plane, and any mod is allowed.
>
> Yeah, I know, it sounds like a pretty harsh rant.
> It's not meant to discourage the people from looking for better
> insurance opportunities, and it's certainly not intended to offend
> anyone. I've made some mistakes too, and forgotten things. It can
> happen to anyone. But some things like not calibrating your EFIS for
> 40+ hours are just plain ridiculous in my mind, and show a real lack
> of common sense.
> Those aren't "oops I forgots"...they're "I just really want to get
> this baby flown off" things, that are the same exact attitudes that
> kill people from flying through thunderstorms. And don't even get me
> started on people who don't read the manuals, watch videos, or get to
> know their new EFIS systems that we all put in our homebuilts... It's
> all part of being a diligent builder and flier. Unfortunately, with
> some of the flexibility we are given in building, equipping, and and
> maintaining, I think there are some valid reasons why companies are
> reluctant to cover us at any real low cost. And while we aren't in
> the same accident statistic category as the Lancair builders seem to
> be, we still have 3 total losses with 4 fatalities in the first 150 or
> so flying RV-10s, and it would be nice if we don't see any more.
>
> So if we had a maybe more cohesive group, that would do some things
> like cross-inpections of eachother's planes, and had some variable
> rates for variable risk levels and pilot experience, then I think
> after we get maybe 500 flying RV-10's we may have a good opportunity.
> The catch is, as in #1 above, the benefits have to be so absolutely
> guaranteed that it would make even the most happy-to-pay AIG/Global
> RV-10 builder jump ship and get on board.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>> That could be but until we get shown support it ain't going to happen.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob K
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 6:00 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots
>> on the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> As they say, timing is everything. I was aware that you guys were
>> doing something, but I was still building and had my mind on other
>> things. Now I am flying and focused on insurance issues. I suspect
>> others are more interested. Now we have many more folks flying and
>> near flying, it might be worth while to tap the pulse of the 10
>> community again and see if now the time is right. I know it is a lot
>> of work, but it might be well worth it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> ---
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob
>> Kaufmann
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 20, 2009 12:18 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots
>> on the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> A few years back Rick and I had set up a self insurance group to
>> solve these challenges, Thousands of dollars later we scrapped the
>> idea because the community of RV 10s wouldn't support it for about
>> $2500 a year as a cost with an estimated 10% a year rebate. Oh well, we
tried.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob K
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *KiloPapa
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 8:50 PM
>> *To:* Matronics RV10 - List
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on
>> the policy
>>
>>
>>
>> Excellent discussion regarding insurance, flying spouses, etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Kevin
>> 40494
>> tail/empennage
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bart van Ruth" <bart.van.ruth(at)wxs.nl> |
I followed the discussions about the fixes of the nose wheel bearing
problem.
The fix I chose is to mount a bushing between the inner rings of the
bearings and make sure that the shaft is a little short.
That way the axial preload of the central bolt is clamping all inner
bushing and rings tightly together so that they do not rotate.
Of course I had to test mount and measure the amount of play in the
bearings carefully and adjust the length of the bushing accordingly.
This way I will not have any wear and successively a lot of bearing play
witch leads to shimmy.
Speaking of shimmy, I also replaced the standard Belleville washer
springs bye much thinner ones. The deflection on the standard springs
is so little that even a minimum wear will drastically reduce the
friction value. The ones I chose deflect at least 5 times more and will
not effect the friction bye much if some wear starts to appear.
I also added bushing to the main gear wheels so that I can put some real
torque on the main nuts and secure the wheel a little better in spite of
the flimsy backup bushing in the rear felt seal.
Bart van Ruth
PH-USN RV-10 wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
Here's what I did with mounting it in the tunnel. Plenty of room in
there. The wires are run forward thru the tunnel. I used some tape
backed wire holders but they will be riveted.
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Where have you been putting the FPS box? Unless you cut/splice the FPS
> harness (which I really dont want to do), it would seem it almost has
> to go in the tunnel where the flap motor is. How about locating the
> Safe trim box? If you can direct me to some sites that would have
> photos of this, it would save a thousand words
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insuring an RV-10 with low-time pilots on the policy |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Tim,
You are right on target. Time and time again we have seen builders in this forum
with "better" ideas on aircraft construction than the engineers at Van's.
Most don't understand the difference between tension and compression and couldn't
do a stress calc if their life depended on it.
"I don't have to do the AD because it doesn't apply to experimentals".
"That SB is too much trouble and isn't necessary." They are reckless in my mind.
Caveat emptor to anyone that buys an experimental.
The FAA gives us enough rope to hang ourselves. That's why insurance companies
have so many restrictions. It's all about risk management and they know that
FAA legal doesn't mean squat. Three fatal crashes out of 200 flying is horrible.
A $2500 - $3000 policy on a $150,000 aircraft is cheap when you consider
that virtually ever crash results in a lawsuit. If you don't like the cost then
blame the lawyers and the crappy pilots that fly the airplanes, not the insurance
companies.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231283#231283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | Washington Aviation Conference |
Anyone going to attend the Washington Aviation Association Conference
held at the Puyallup Fairgrounds over the next two days?
Dave Fritzsche
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
I mounted mine in front of the right rear seat, same spot many are
mounting there back up batteries.
Larry Rosen
#356
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | locating the Flap Positioning System box and the Safety |
Trim Box
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Here is our position. Note you want to mount the unit with the text
upside down to access the adjustment screws.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Washington Aviation Conference |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I'll be there for renewal of my IA.
John Cox
503-453-6016
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Fritzsche (Building)
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Washington Aviation Conference
Anyone going to attend the Washington Aviation Association Conference
held at the Puyallup Fairgrounds over the next two days?
Dave Fritzsche
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Washington Aviation Conference |
Becky & I are there already!
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 20, 2009, at 8:08 PM, "John Cox" wrote:
>
> I'll be there for renewal of my IA.
>
> John Cox
> 503-453-6016
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> Fritzsche (Building)
> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:20 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Washington Aviation Conference
>
>
>
> Anyone going to attend the Washington Aviation Association Conference
> held at the Puyallup Fairgrounds over the next two days?
>
> Dave Fritzsche
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Engine start |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
First engine start today - what a buzz. Ranks better than first panel chec
ks and having the smoke stay in the wire.
Not quite without incident. I had previously removed the bottom plugs and
spun the prop to preoil the engine. The new Concorde battery had no proble
m turning an engine with no compression. Left the battery on charge overni
ght knowing a few starts may be required. The battery had barely enough cr
anking capacity to kick the engine. May need to go to a couple of Odysseys
in parallel. With battery sorted, the engine still would not fire. Found
I needed to remove the fuel injector lines to the cylinders and run the bo
ost pump to flush the lines. Once the lines were clean and free of air, sh
e fired with little trouble.
Did not take it over 1500 rpm for the first run (only 2-3 mins), but even 1
t 1500 she was screamin' to get over the chocks. Just the W&B and paperwor
k to do.
On a high - had to share.
cheers
Ron
-187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Engine start |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Ron,
That's great! Nothing like the roar of an IO-540 to get you blood pumping. It
must be nice to be that close. Any idea why the Concorde had so much trouble?
It should have enough oomph to turn it over.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231332#231332
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group...
anyone using the G3 Ignition system? http://www.g3ignition.com/
Vans recommends a shower of sparks type ignition enhancement so this looks interesting
to me.
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231333#231333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Self Insurance Pool |
The concept of a self-insurance program is intrigueing. It's a complex sub
ject whose success in the RV community may be hampered by that complexity a
nd other issues. I have had good and bad experiences with self insurance p
ools in business and its a very broad term that even the experienced can't
opine on without significant details. Do you have some specific plan docum
ent you can share that you developed a couple years ago?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: First Engine start |
A great achievement Ron, well done.=0A=0APat=0AVH-XPP - South oz=0A=0ADo No
t Archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "McGANN, R
on" =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Satur
day, 21 February, 2009 5:06:26 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: First Engine start
=0A=0A=0AFirst engine start today - what a buzz.- Ranks better than first
panel checks and having the smoke stay in the wire.=0A=0ANot quite without
incident.- I had previously removed the bottom plugs and spun the prop t
o preoil the engine.- The new Concorde battery had no problem turning an
engine with no compression.- Left the battery on charge overnight knowing
a few starts may be required.- The battery had barely enough cranking ca
pacity to kick the engine.- May need to go to a couple of Odysseys in par
allel.- With battery sorted, the engine still would not fire.- Found I
needed to remove the fuel injector lines to the cylinders and run the boost
pump to flush the lines.- Once the lines were clean and free of air, she
fired with little trouble.=0A=0ADid not take it over 1500 rpm for the firs
t run (only 2-3 mins), but even 1t 1500 she was screamin' to get over the c
hocks.- Just the W&B and paperwork to do.-=0A=0AOn a high - had to shar
e.=0A=0Acheers=0ARon=0A-187=0A=0A"Warning: The information contained in th
is email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia.
If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of t
his email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have receive
d this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, howe
ver, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's r
esponsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are compl
eted before installing any data sent in this email to your computer."
========== =0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the peop
le that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.
com/mail/smarterinbox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The Bendix "Shower of Sparks" was strongly promoted by the IA speaker on
Magnetos at the Washington State Aviation event yesterday. He was a
firm advocate due to their reliability and benefits. He surprised us
when he remained skeptical on the advantage of electronic systems. It
was an interesting point to ponder on a Saturday. So Shower of Sparks
is worth consideration.
Most of us wanted information on Slicks with Impulse Couplers and other
such things. I have seen several 500 hour Slick inspections which are
blown off by the Experimental Builder/Repairman. Most hobbyists and A&P
cannot remagnetize the needed components (without the right equipment)
to comply and I found that interesting.
One Take away point was the need to Ohm out each Champion resistor
sparkplug before re-insertion. Turns out old dogs can learn new tricks.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 5:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: G3 Ignition
Group...
anyone using the G3 Ignition system? http://www.g3ignition.com/
Vans recommends a shower of sparks type ignition enhancement so this
looks interesting to me.
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will
always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231333#231333
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Engine start |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Congratulations Ron,
I can't wait when I will do the same but that will take one more ear I believe.
All the best from freezing Switzerland
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231525#231525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type) |
Rene', the replaceent cooler just bolts on to the same place as the origina
l Vans cooler?=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________
________=0AFrom: Rene <rene(at)felker.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASen
t: Monday, 23 February, 2009 6:39:47 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How m
any push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)=0A=0A=0AHere is a picture of
the new cooler.looks just like the old cooler and the air controll
er.=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0ARene'=0A801-721-6080=0A=C2-=0A-
----Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mai
lto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene=0ASent: Tuesday
, February 17, 2009 10:04 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: R
V10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)=0A=C2-
=0AGot the oil cooler here=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://www.aviationtechproducts.com/h
tml/engine__parts.html=0A=C2-=0A$427=0A=C2-=0AI have not flown with it
yet, so I don=99t know if it will help my oil heat problem.=C2- In
the summer I have to restrict climbs due to oil heatwe wi
ll see this year.=0A=C2-=0ANot wanting the oil to be to cold, I put in th
is air controller, also have not flown with it in order to check the effect
iveness.=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller
-cooler-p-14566.html=0A=C2-=0ARene'=0A801-721-6080=0A=C2-=0A-----Origin
al Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-
rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis=0ASent: Tuesday,
February 17, 2009 4:29 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV1
0-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat type)=0A=C2-=0AR
ene, how much was the cooler and did you need to replace both the Vans supp
lied oil cooler and the mounting box?=0A=C2-=0AAny chance of a contact fo
r Alex please.=0A=C2-=0ARegards=0A=C2-=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299
=C2- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=C2-=C2-=0A=C2-=0ADo Not Arc
hive=0A=C2-=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0AFrom:Rene Felker <
rene(at)felker.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 18 Februa
ry, 2009 8:19:36 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol
cables (cabin heat type)=0AI don=99t have any pictures, but the new
cooler is the one Alex sells and I put a butterfly valve on the back of the
baffling in order to control the airflow.=C2- I can=99t remember w
ho I bought the butterfly valve from..I will have to look that up
at home.=0A=C2-=0ARene' Felker=0ARV-10 N423CF Flying=0A801-721-6080=0AFro
m:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis=0ASent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 2:3
6 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How many p
ush pull contol cables (cabin heat type)=0A=C2-=0AAny pictures of the "ne
w oil cooler" installation please Rene?=0A=C2-=0ARegards=0A=C2-=0APatri
ck Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299=C2- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=C2-
=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0AFrom:Rene Felker =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 18 February, 2009 6:45
:04 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabi
er.com>=0A=0AAlso, I used mine for air control to the "new" oil cooler I ju
st put in.=0A=0ARene' Felker=0ARV-10 N423CF Flying=0A801-721-6080=0A=0A----
-Original Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mail
to:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael=0AWellenzohn
=0ASent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:50 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: How many push pull contol cables (cabin heat typ
zohn.net>=0A=0AOk great thanks guys, that will come as a spare one since I
have an IO-540.=0A=0ACheers=0AMichael=0A=0A--------=0ARV-10 builder (engine
, prop, finishing)=0A#511=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ah
ttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230719#23071ics.com/Navigator?
RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigsp; =C2- =C2-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -=0A_==C2- --> =0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0A=C2-=0A=C2
-=0AMake Yahoo!7 your homepage and win a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find
out more. =0A=C2-=C2-=0A=C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Na
vigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/
contribution=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lnics.com/
contribution" target=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contr
ibution =0A============C2-=C2-=C2- =0A=C2-=0A
=0A________________________________=0A=0AMake Yahoo!7 your homepage and win
a trip to the Quiksilver Pro. Find out more. =0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://w
ww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp:/
/www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.m
atronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that m
atter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/
smarterinbox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
I think the 500hr inspection for mags is important. I had some mags on
my RV6A that were working well but were at the 500hrs so I had them
inspected. One mag had a bearing spinning in the case and was about
to come apart, which would have thrown balls and other parts into the
gears and throughout the engine. I was glad to catch that before
anything happened!
Kevin Belue
RV6A
RV10
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 22, 2009, at 9:34 AM, "John Cox" wrote:
>
> The Bendix "Shower of Sparks" was strongly promoted by the IA
> speaker on
> Magnetos at the Washington State Aviation event yesterday. He was a
> firm advocate due to their reliability and benefits. He surprised us
> when he remained skeptical on the advantage of electronic systems. It
> was an interesting point to ponder on a Saturday. So Shower of Sparks
> is worth consideration.
>
> Most of us wanted information on Slicks with Impulse Couplers and
> other
> such things. I have seen several 500 hour Slick inspections which are
> blown off by the Experimental Builder/Repairman. Most hobbyists and
> A&P
> cannot remagnetize the needed components (without the right equipment)
> to comply and I found that interesting.
>
> One Take away point was the need to Ohm out each Champion resistor
> sparkplug before re-insertion. Turns out old dogs can learn new
> tricks.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 5:00 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: G3 Ignition
>
>
> Group...
> anyone using the G3 Ignition system? http://www.g3ignition.com/
>
> Vans recommends a shower of sparks type ignition enhancement so this
> looks interesting to me.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will
> always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231333#231333
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | N519PJ Weigh -In |
Well today, I got up enough courage to put in12 qts if mineral oil and
push N519PJ up on the scales. I figured with the 'mods' that she might
be a bit on the portly side, sort of expected something in the
neighborhood of 1700lbs. The only thing she lacks is some carpet.
Well, the number turned out to be 1772 ! A bit more than I was
expecting, but I remembered that we had 40 + lbs of air in each tire,
....... so I let out 15 lbs out of each tire, so she should only weigh
1737 now. (that makes me feel slightly better), I'm not sure how many
lbs I have in the O2 tank, but when I get a guage on it, I figure there
should be 1000lbs or more, so I'll just bleed off enough to get her down
to her fighting weight.
Deems #406
it's all done, ......gonna light the fire soon.
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Deems,
I feel somewhat relieved that my 1769 lbs. (WITH carpet) has been
bested! However, if your 1772 is with paint, I may still own the most
portly 540 powered -10. I have not weighed mine since paint, but the
paint shop told me that they estimated 25-30 lbs.
Best regards,
David Maib
40559
On Feb 23, 2009, at 8:14 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
Well today, I got up enough courage to put in12 qts if mineral oil
and push N519PJ up on the scales. I figured with the 'mods' that she
might be a bit on the portly side, sort of expected something in the
neighborhood of 1700lbs. The only thing she lacks is some carpet.
Well, the number turned out to be 1772 ! A bit more than I was
expecting, but I remembered that we had 40 + lbs of air in each
tire, ....... so I let out 15 lbs out of each tire, so she should
only weigh 1737 now. (that makes me feel slightly better), I'm not
sure how many lbs I have in the O2 tank, but when I get a guage on
it, I figure there should be 1000lbs or more, so I'll just bleed off
enough to get her down to her fighting weight.
Deems #406
it's all done, ......gonna light the fire soon.
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Can you take any weight out of the pilot?
On Feb 23, 2009, at 5:14 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Well today, I got up enough courage to put in12 qts if mineral oil
> and push N519PJ up on the scales. I figured with the 'mods' that
> she might be a bit on the portly side, sort of expected something
> in the neighborhood of 1700lbs. The only thing she lacks is some
> carpet. Well, the number turned out to be 1772 ! A bit more than I
> was expecting, but I remembered that we had 40 + lbs of air in each
> tire, ....... so I let out 15 lbs out of each tire, so she should
> only weigh 1737 now. (that makes me feel slightly better), I'm not
> sure how many lbs I have in the O2 tank, but when I get a guage on
> it, I figure there should be 1000lbs or more, so I'll just bleed
> off enough to get her down to her fighting weight.
>
>
> Deems #406
> it's all done, ......gonna light the fire soon.
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | N519PJ Weigh -In |
A couple of weeks ago I was called a Cirrus by the RYN tower but I did not
qualify. I wasn't heavy enough. The DVT tower is going to begin mistaking
you for an SR22.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 6:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N519PJ Weigh -In
Well today, I got up enough courage to put in12 qts if mineral oil and push
N519PJ up on the scales. I figured with the 'mods' that she might be a bit
on the portly side, sort of expected something in the
neighborhood of 1700lbs. The only thing she lacks is some carpet.
Well, the number turned out to be 1772 ! A bit more than I was expecting,
but I remembered that we had 40 + lbs of air in each tire, ....... so I let
out 15 lbs out of each tire, so she should only weigh
1737 now. (that makes me feel slightly better), I'm not sure how many lbs I
have in the O2 tank, but when I get a guage on it, I figure there should be
1000lbs or more, so I'll just bleed off enough to get her down to her
fighting weight.
Deems #406
it's all done, ......gonna light the fire soon.
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
Bob,
Is this offer still open? When it was first posted back in June I
had no need for it so I saved it just in case. I have pretty much
the same main equipment and I am having some trouble with the
interface between the 480 and 330. I've got a pair of Horizon 1's.
Also the fuel/air data between the GRT and the 480 has been a
problem. How does the 330 get its encoder data from the GRT? I'm
trying to get everything working for a trip to Farmington, NM in mid
March and a trip to avionics shop to upgrade the 480 on Fri.
I've got my hours flown off and took a trip IA to pick up my mother-
in-law for a 2-3 week stay. That 4 hour round trip sure beat a 12
hour car trip. To my surprise the gas going down was about the same
as driving. I been having fun so far.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
On Jun 11, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
> Using GRT Wx with the WS/HS versions of the GRT requires high speed
> serial inputs to each DU (as opposed to using inter-DU communication).
> When the new HX displays are on the scene they will use USB
> directly to
> the Wx receiver (processor box not needed with the HX). Only ports
> 1 &
> 2 on the WS/HS support the 115,200 high speed serial rate. For
> redundancy there are some cases where a single device (like the
> AHRS/ADC) feeds multiple DUs.
>
> I'd be happy to email my connectivity and configuration documents to
> those interested. My panel config has the following so it's pretty
> complete starting point:
> GRT (3 screens)
> PMA-8000B
> SL-30
> GNS-480
> GTX-330
> TruTrak Digiflight II-VSGV
> GRT Weather receiver/processor
> CO Guardian 353
> AOA Pro
>
> It is a relatively minor wiring difference between the GNS-480 I'm
> using
> and a 430W and doesn't impact the serial port configuration.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
>
>
> Jason,
>
> Your GRT configuration is and will probably continue to be a popular
> configuration. I still have not decided on which solution I'm going
> with and will probably not for a while yet even though most of the
> electrical work is done. Why don't you share with the list what you
> are trying to accomplish. Those that have sent suggestion off list,
> might I suggest sharing with the list for those that are considering
> this same configuration.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/10PanelGRT.jpg
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/index.html
>
> Remember, for each transmit (Tx) serial line you can have multiple
> receivers (Rx). Many of your listed devices only require one or the
> other. Only a few require both Tx and Rx.
>
> GNS430; Tx Aviation data to EFIS1/2, GTX327, TT VSGV
> EFIS; Tx Icarus altitude data to GNS430, GTX327
> EFIS; Tx / Rx to - from SL-30
>
> I'll have to look up what the GRT XM Weather requires.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | OT - The hydraulic ram on my HF engine hoist failed |
It seems that the ram on my Harbor Freight engine hoist failed.
Suddenly, after getting my engine mounted, the ram ceased ramming.
There was no leakage. Pumping had no effect. My guess is that some
internal seal failed. I followed the directions to bleed it. After
making a bit of a mess, the ram still appears to have failed.
I don't know what to do next. Replace the ram, the whole hoist, or
repair.
I'm wondering what caused it.I left the engine hanging on the hoist for
several months (with protection but the whole weight was borne by the
ram). Is that the reason?
Advice is sought and welcome.
Bill "it sure looks great up on the wheels and with the engine on it" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on paint
and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior to
painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone who
has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the traditional
: scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - The hydraulic ram on my HF engine hoist failed |
Unscrew the 'lock' on the ram all the way out and remove the ball on the
bottom. Then look for metal shavings in the bottom that prevents the
ball from seating. For me it's been a common problem ..... from my
hoist to floor rams, and may happen more than once on the same item. If
your ram slowly leaks down over time ..... same problem. Holding
pressure over a long period of time is normal and doesn't hurt the ram
at all. What probably happened was when you let the hoist down the
hydraulic oil pushed trash from the machining through and it caught
under the ball. If you really tightened down on the 'lock' you may have
pressed the trash down into the 'well' and you'll have to dig it out.
Good luck!
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> It seems that the ram on my Harbor Freight engine hoist failed.
> Suddenly, after getting my engine mounted, the ram ceased ramming.
> There was no leakage. Pumping had no effect. My guess is that some
> internal seal failed. I followed the directions to bleed it. After
> making a bit of a mess, the ram still appears to have failed.
>
> I don't know what to do next. Replace the ram, the whole hoist, or
> repair.
> I'm wondering what caused it.I left the engine hanging on the hoist
> for several months (with protection but the whole weight was borne by
> the ram). Is that the reason?
>
> Advice is sought and welcome.
>
> Bill "it sure looks great up on the wheels and with the engine on it"
> Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Importing an Aircraft |
The 100 hours on a Homebuilt applies to aircraft moving from the US to
Canada. In Canada we have a final inspection where you do not in the US.
Canada considers the 100 hours that have been flown as the equivalent to a
final inspection. Without the 100 hours a final inspection is required which
means opening up all the closed parts. I have not heard that there has been
a change.
Wayne
RV10 working on the wiring
F1 Rocket
2008 Rocket 100 Winner
Checked by AVG.
7:17 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
The PPG tech line is 1-800-647-6050. They've been instructed to refer
airplane questions to their aircraft paint line (different product), so
I couched my PPG Concept questions to apply to a custom car with
aluminum, fiberglass, steel, and plexiglass components.
I'm taking the route of:
- conversion (DX533/DX503 for aluminum, DX579/DX520 for the steps)
- DP48LF epoxy primer (DP402LF catalyst)
- DCC single stage top coat (DT885 reducer and DCX61 activator), DX73
fisheye eliminator if needed
I'm going to try the single stage (DCC) topcoat on a small piece first
(rudder, perhaps) to see what kind of rivet coverage I get. I've had
lots of problems with Imron not covering rivets properly (10 years ago
on my RV-6A). If the DCC covers the rivets OK I'll press ahead. If
not, I may try PPG's basecoat/clearcoat system.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
AirMike wrote:
>
> getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on paint
and finish
>
> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
>
> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone who
has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
>
> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the traditional
: scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
> I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sheldon,
I'm getting ready to head out to COS on a business trip but will send the info
tonight.
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon Feb 23 19:33:15 2009
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
Bob,
Is this offer still open? When it was first posted back in June I
had no need for it so I saved it just in case. I have pretty much
the same main equipment and I am having some trouble with the
interface between the 480 and 330. I've got a pair of Horizon 1's.
Also the fuel/air data between the GRT and the 480 has been a
problem. How does the 330 get its encoder data from the GRT? I'm
trying to get everything working for a trip to Farmington, NM in mid
March and a trip to avionics shop to upgrade the 480 on Fri.
I've got my hours flown off and took a trip IA to pick up my mother-
in-law for a 2-3 week stay. That 4 hour round trip sure beat a 12
hour car trip. To my surprise the gas going down was about the same
as driving. I been having fun so far.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
On Jun 11, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
> Using GRT Wx with the WS/HS versions of the GRT requires high speed
> serial inputs to each DU (as opposed to using inter-DU communication).
> When the new HX displays are on the scene they will use USB
> directly to
> the Wx receiver (processor box not needed with the HX). Only ports
> 1 &
> 2 on the WS/HS support the 115,200 high speed serial rate. For
> redundancy there are some cases where a single device (like the
> AHRS/ADC) feeds multiple DUs.
>
> I'd be happy to email my connectivity and configuration documents to
> those interested. My panel config has the following so it's pretty
> complete starting point:
> GRT (3 screens)
> PMA-8000B
> SL-30
> GNS-480
> GTX-330
> TruTrak Digiflight II-VSGV
> GRT Weather receiver/processor
> CO Guardian 353
> AOA Pro
>
> It is a relatively minor wiring difference between the GNS-480 I'm
> using
> and a 430W and doesn't impact the serial port configuration.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
>
>
> Jason,
>
> Your GRT configuration is and will probably continue to be a popular
> configuration. I still have not decided on which solution I'm going
> with and will probably not for a while yet even though most of the
> electrical work is done. Why don't you share with the list what you
> are trying to accomplish. Those that have sent suggestion off list,
> might I suggest sharing with the list for those that are considering
> this same configuration.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/10PanelGRT.jpg
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/index.html
>
> Remember, for each transmit (Tx) serial line you can have multiple
> receivers (Rx). Many of your listed devices only require one or the
> other. Only a few require both Tx and Rx.
>
> GNS430; Tx Aviation data to EFIS1/2, GTX327, TT VSGV
> EFIS; Tx Icarus altitude data to GNS430, GTX327
> EFIS; Tx / Rx to - from SL-30
>
> I'll have to look up what the GRT XM Weather requires.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I'm using Mike Loehle's products. Wonderfil is just that, rub it in with a towel
and prime..I've never seen such a great product. I'm aslo using Prekote, the
newest metal prep product the Airforce is using. Rub it on with a red pad and
it preps and conditions in one step. It is enviromentally safe. FWI Mike is the
guy who did the article for Van's RVator using Gen Grumpys aka Gen Miller's
RV-10 paint job. My total cost for the entire line of products was $2600 plus
shipping for four colors. This included everything, primer, filler, thinner,
Prekote.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:41:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on paint
and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior to
painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone who
has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the traditional
: scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
> prior to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
I'm sure you've read the advice to ALWAYS stay with one family of products.
I've painted three planes now (two were my own) and used PPG for all
including Concept DCC. Use SmoothPrime for the first heavy coat, sand off,
then switch to PPG K38 for subsequent coats.
> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone
> who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
Excellent product and system. Experience with it here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Paint/paint.html
...and here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
> traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
> I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
You absolutely need to Scotchbrite the bajeezus out of the aluminum to let
the coatings have both chemical and mechanical adhesion. You can use
self-etching primer in lieu of the etch/alodine process however. PPG makes
such a self-etch primer, DX1791 which is what I used -- no adhesion issues
whatsoever.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, 170 hrs and a joy to fly
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
A little off topic from this, but what can you expect from a painter
if you pay to have it done. How much of the finishing work so you
still have to do yourself before taking it to a painter?
thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Deems,
I hope you are better at building than math and science. Any fifth grader knows
that since the mains are at the same %MAC, you can only deduct half of the amount
of the pounds that you remove from them. I hate to tell you this, but you
are 15lbs heavier than you think.
The good news is that you easily compensate for that extra 15 by putting just your
EAA card and your favorite AMEX card on board and leaving your wallet at home.
Congrats on finishing.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231818#231818
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
;-)
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> I hope you are better at building than math and science. Any fifth grader knows
that since the mains are at the same %MAC, you can only deduct half of the
amount of the pounds that you remove from them. I hate to tell you this, but
you are 15lbs heavier than you think.
> The good news is that you easily compensate for that extra 15 by putting just
your EAA card and your favorite AMEX card on board and leaving your wallet at
home.
>
> Congrats on finishing.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231818#231818
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Heat sheild for cowl |
I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on the insid
e of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have people used and w
hat areas need covering?
Thanks=2C
Vern Smith (#324 finishing=3B firewall forward)
_________________________________________________________________
Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_0220
09
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
John,
It really depends on the painter. My painter helped me to do the finish
fiberglass work (sand, fill, prime, sand) to the point of perfection. I
think, mainly, because he has pride of workmanship. In other words, he
didn't want people to see his final product with my building flaws built
in.
Some painters don't care, but most want the finished product to be a
reflection of them.
I had my painter put a coat of black primer on the plane so it would show
any imperfections. Then, together, we work out the flaws. Like
everything else, it's a matter of whose time is more valuable.
Many painters will give the option of "who does what". If they feel
there is a lot of finish work to be done before paint, they may quote it
separately (so you have the option of doing it yourself, or paying them
to do it. Items like exterior window trim, I felt he could do a better
job than me.
Hope this helps.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click here to save cash and find low rates on auto loans.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group...
I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just talked myself
into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little concerned with head room.
I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have installed the console had any issues
with this... I'm not certain how deep the console is... appears to be a couple
inches.
Thoughts???
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Doug,
I am 6'1" and have the Flightline AC overhead console. I can bump my
headset on the overhead console switch panel when my seat is forward
a couple of notches. I can also bump my head on the Blue Sky sun
visor mounts. I do have my seat forward a couple of notches when
flying. Can't reach the pedals otherwise. Now that is legroom!
David Maib
40559
On Feb 24, 2009, at 1:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
Group...
I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain how
deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
Thoughts???
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and
will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I have installed the AA overhead console and I believe Stein's is the same or very
similar in shape.
>From your email I am confused. You are asking about head room and then
> I'm not certain how deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>
Which dimensions are you looking for? Pilots or passengers? I can give you the
dimensions of from the cabin top, inside, to the bottom of the console, giving
you what is lost in head room in the center of the cabin.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231846#231846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Doug,
I'm 6'4" and I have about 2-2.5" clearance with my seat position. I
was looking at this the other day and I was glad there was no
console. Best thing to do is to try out a seat position and measure
to the the cabin cover.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV out of phase 1
On Feb 24, 2009, at 12:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Group...
> I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
> talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
> concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
> installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain
> how deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>
> Thoughts???
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
I agree with Sheldon, I'd try a seat position and measure it out.
I know that I'm only 6'1" or a tad more, and I come pretty close
to the cabin top. Do the test with a headset on, and in the
seat position you expect. When it's cold out in the winter and
the seat foam is still stiff, I hit the cabin top until the foam
relaxes. At that point I feel like I have good headroom.
If the overhead console doesn't cover the area directly above
your head, you would probably be OK. But if it fits right above
your head you would do well to measure it out well first.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> I'm 6'4" and I have about 2-2.5" clearance with my seat position. I was
> looking at this the other day and I was glad there was no console. Best
> thing to do is to try out a seat position and measure to the the cabin
> cover.
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV out of phase 1
> On Feb 24, 2009, at 12:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
>>
>> Group...
>> I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
>> talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
>> concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
>> installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain how
>> deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>>
>> Thoughts???
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug
>>
>> --------
>> Doug
>> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
>> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
Is there any benefit or drawback to painting (or getting painted) the
pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
during storage and spread the cost out over the build. With it being
small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
vs a aircraft paint shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
I spoke at length to my painter. He said the range on RV-10 paint jobs
could run from $8,500, up.
Again, it's what you want.
Tom
____________________________________________________________
Click here to increase your salary by earning an online degree.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTKL6dS3TkG2Nt9ChBF37nF85O5kRCSqEC2faRhOxBCJpWrLTTy0bm/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I am planning to tape /glue Vans windscreen COM antenna to the front of the center
cabin brace.
For those who used it as well and are flying, where did you put yours?
I want to paint or put a black cover / tape over it.
Please let me know what you think.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231881#231881
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello,
I have a single Lightspeed Plasma III and a VP-200.
Where did you put the control boxes what is your experience pros & cons?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231882#231882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
I put mine in that place on my 6A and made it longer to make sure it would work.
I planned to have it checked by a bunch of HAM operators (also pilots) that
wanted to come see what I had built.
They hooked up their meters to it and told me that it was electrically too short
for the freqs that I wanted to use. They also indicated that the center cabin
brace could interfere with the radiation pattern of the antenna.
My recommendations:
Make it extra long - then trim it later after you get the SWR checked (with everything
else installed and running).
Invite the radio guys to come out and do the checking (unless you're a radio guy
too).
I'm still trying to figure out how to re-do mine...I do have more copper tape -
it's just the PITB factor....meanwhile, glad I have two radios for phase 1 flying
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 4.7 hrs
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Feb 24, 2009 4:21 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace
>
>
>Hi,
>I am planning to tape /glue Vans windscreen COM antenna to the front of the center
cabin brace.
>For those who used it as well and are flying, where did you put yours?
>
>I want to paint or put a black cover / tape over it.
>
>Please let me know what you think.
>
>Cheers
>Michael
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231881#231881
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | List of firewall penetrations |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello
I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /cables
and tubes going through the firewall.
Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
1) Throttle cable
2) Prop cable
3) Mixture cable
4) Alt air cable
5) Heater cable front
6) Heater cable rear
7) LSE Plasma III input cable
8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
9) Battery cable
10) Fuel pressure cable
11) Oil pressure cable
12) Manifold pressure tube
13) Oil temperature cable
14) CHT cables (6x)
15) EGT cables (6x)
16) Brake fluid container
Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrations?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
You may also have a fuel purge cable to pass through the FWF.
There are some more wires that will pass through
Starter contactor power to engage
Alternator field
Alternator warning signal
load shunt wires (2)
If you have a 2nd alternator you will have additional wires.
Larry
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello
> I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /cables
and tubes going through the firewall.
>
> Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
> 1) Throttle cable
> 2) Prop cable
> 3) Mixture cable
> 4) Alt air cable
> 5) Heater cable front
> 6) Heater cable rear
> 7) LSE Plasma III input cable
> 8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
> 9) Battery cable
> 10) Fuel pressure cable
> 11) Oil pressure cable
> 12) Manifold pressure tube
> 13) Oil temperature cable
> 14) CHT cables (6x)
> 15) EGT cables (6x)
> 16) Brake fluid container
>
> Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrations?
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
John Trollinger wrote:
>
> Is there any benefit
You get good paint coverage all over the part
> or drawback
You can't get good coverage in places like the wing/tail rear spar
because the ailerons/flaps/elevators/rudder is in the way.
> to painting (or getting painted) the
> pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
> flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
> during storage and spread the cost out over the build.
If you know what your base color will be, spray that and add the trim
after the plane is assembled.
> With it being
> small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
> vs a aircraft paint shop.
>
Much easier to take the pieces parts to your paint shop if you go that
route.
You've bought tools and learned to rivet, why not buy tools and learn to
paint??? It isn't hat hard!
Linn
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put the foam in
last weekend to check legroom for the control cables. So at lunch today, I crawled
in and sat on the hard as a rock foam (Iowa, cold garage). Any of you
that are above average height will recognize the "how many fingers stacked on
top of each other, on top of my head, will fit between me and whatever is over
me" exercise.
The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part of the canopy.
The low part was located towards the door so the ovhd console "might" fit
as it's in the center and there is more room there. That's when I started questioning
the sanity of the ovhd console for me.
The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting lights, vents and
maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my head. I already wear the clarity
aloft in-ear headset in the -7A to get a little more head room.
So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something forward to mount
map lights....
Decisions, decisions...
Doug...
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
it also makes a big difference as to how you position the seat back. If you sit
VERY erect, the head room is less, but not as comfortable for me flying. One
'notch' angled back on seat back (and I have the seat itself at least a couple
notches forward) gives me lotsa more head room--6-1+ using large David Clarks
and I don't hit. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231903#231903
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain
there's not room for me and the OVHD console
On Feb 24, 2009, at 3:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put
> the foam in last weekend to check legroom for the control cables.
> So at lunch today, I crawled in and sat on the hard as a rock foam
> (Iowa, cold garage). Any of you that are above average height will
> recognize the "how many fingers stacked on top of each other, on
> top of my head, will fit between me and whatever is over me" exercise.
>
> The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part
> of the canopy. The low part was located towards the door so the
> ovhd console "might" fit as it's in the center and there is more
> room there. That's when I started questioning the sanity of the
> ovhd console for me.
>
> The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting
> lights, vents and maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my
> head. I already wear the clarity aloft in-ear headset in the -7A
> to get a little more head room.
>
> So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something
> forward to mount map lights....
>
> Decisions, decisions...
>
> Doug...
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
I would not mind painting myself (and a solid color base coat with the
colors after assembly is what I would do) but I am building in the
garage of my town home and not sure how conducive that is to painting.
I guess I have to research it some or see if anyone has a paint booth
in the northern Virginia area that I could use.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
There are multiple variables in play here - not only are the front seats
adjustable fore/aft, you can also install the rudder pedals forward or
aft. Because the front seat rails are on a slope (up as you move
forward), having the seat more aft gives you more headroom. While maybe
a bit counterintuitive, if you're tall consider mounting the pedals aft
so you'll have the seat in a more aft position. Most people jump to
installing them in the forward position to give more legroom. Not sure
how tall a person would have to be to actually NEED the pedals installed
forward but my guess would be around 6'4".
As a datapoint, I'm 6'1" and have the pedals mounted in the forward
position. I fly with the seat in the 3rd notch forward from the aft
stop. I have an OH console and no headroom issues wearing Lightspeed
Zulu headsets.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OVHD console
I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain
there's not room for me and the OVHD console
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
We have the cold hard seat thing beat!!!
Vertical Power Unit + Seat Heaters will allow for a comfortable bottom
temperature by the time you actually get into the plane.
The Vertical Power unit is programmable and allows you to turn on the
seats and lights while you are in the pre-start mode.
Dave
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain there's
> not room for me and the OVHD console
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2009, at 3:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put
>> the foam in last weekend to check legroom for the control cables. So
>> at lunch today, I crawled in and sat on the hard as a rock foam (Iowa,
>> cold garage). Any of you that are above average height will recognize
>> the "how many fingers stacked on top of each other, on top of my head,
>> will fit between me and whatever is over me" exercise.
>>
>> The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part of
>> the canopy. The low part was located towards the door so the ovhd
>> console "might" fit as it's in the center and there is more room
>> there. That's when I started questioning the sanity of the ovhd
>> console for me.
>>
>> The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting lights,
>> vents and maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my head. I
>> already wear the clarity aloft in-ear headset in the -7A to get a
>> little more head room.
>>
>> So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something
>> forward to mount map lights....
>>
>> Decisions, decisions...
>>
>> Doug...
>>
>> --------
>> Doug
>> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
>> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Graphics and Number of colors in transition over parts have a BIG
impact. The painter, even if that is you, will decide what is best.
Good chemistry requests a min/max time to wait before sanding to apply
second coats. If done withing a few hours or days, the second
application will still etch into the previous without mechanical
intervention.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Trollinger
Sent: Tue 2/24/2009 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Is there any benefit or drawback to painting (or getting painted) the
pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
during storage and spread the cost out over the build. With it being
small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
vs a aircraft paint shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
effectus(at)rogers.com wrote:
> We have the cold hard seat thing beat!!!
>
> Vertical Power Unit + Seat Heaters will allow for a comfortable bottom
> temperature by the time you actually get into the plane.
>
> The Vertical Power unit is programmable and allows you to turn on the
> seats and lights while you are in the pre-start mode.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
Yea, cool that you used your battery to heat your seats while you sit there and
enjoy it while you can't crank the engine!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231930#231930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin L (Ted) French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Importing an Aircraft |
Thanks for the replies folks. Seems I was getting the US and Canadian
requirements mixed up.
Ted
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Hadath
Sent: February 24, 2009 4:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Importing an Aircraft
The 100 hours on a Homebuilt applies to aircraft moving from the US to
Canada. In Canada we have a final inspection where you do not in the US.
Canada considers the 100 hours that have been flown as the equivalent to a
final inspection. Without the 100 hours a final inspection is required which
means opening up all the closed parts. I have not heard that there has been
a change.
Wayne
RV10 working on the wiring
F1 Rocket
2008 Rocket 100 Winner
Checked by AVG.
23/02/2009 7:17 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrate.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.html
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hendricks door handles |
| From: | Bob Reno <fltsend(at)juno.com> |
Hello gang,
Any ideas as to the best process of installation for a Hendrick
door handle and necessary parts that must be conditioned to make it work
on a rv10? I believe this subject was covered before but cannot find.
Thanks. R. J. Reno
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTInoKDVgmaNNwEIDfk1cXkSQYRAu1i98rnKjWFruNwqMUtoFexM4I/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
I really don't have any great shots of waht you want.... but I can shoot so
me tomorrow.- Fo any explainations, let's arrange a time that both of us
are looking at the same pics.
What time zone are you in?- My number is 916-801-8402.- Evenings 6-11 b
est for me.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/24/09, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 1:48 PM
Hello
I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /ca
bles
and tubes going through the firewall.
Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
1) Throttle cable
2) Prop cable
3) Mixture cable
4) Alt air cable
5) Heater cable front
6) Heater cable rear
7) LSE Plasma III input cable
8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
9) Battery cable
10) Fuel pressure cable
11) Oil pressure cable
12) Manifold pressure tube
13) Oil temperature cable
14) CHT cables (6x)
15) EGT cables (6x)
16) Brake fluid container
Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrati
ons?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were set to be weighed...
mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since he made his public,
I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this info. Weigh in included
all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel pants, and the following painted;
interior, wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly in and about
60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport already, no need to
fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was only made aware of one potential
problem, and it's fixed already.
How about the 3 10's lined up?
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix, prop and alt
air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor). As stated previously, I feel
that the stainless steel heater valves are a mandatory option for fire safety.
The eye ball openings are probably the best way to go for max fire safety, but
they are verrrrry expensive. I am opting to use a high quality fire block caulk
and nylon openings
I have a bunch of pictures that I will send to anyone who contacts me off line.
I took them at OSH '08. They are too large to post (1.5-2 meg)
Just a suggestion to the newbies here - if you go to OSH take a LOT of pictures
of the RV10's there. I took 300 pics last year and they have been invaluable
in finishing my project
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231966#231966
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hendricks door handles |
I am working through this right now. I should have pictures this
weekend,
Richard Reynolds
On Feb 24, 2009, at 10:45 PM, Bob Reno wrote:
>
> Hello gang,
> Any ideas as to the best process of installation for a
> Hendrick
> door handle and necessary parts that must be conditioned to make it
> work
> on a rv10? I believe this subject was covered before but cannot
> find.
> Thanks. R. J. Reno
> ____________________________________________________________
> Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/
> BLSrjpTInoKDVgmaNNwEIDfk1cXkSQYRAu1i98rnKjWFruNwqMUtoFexM4I/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hendricks door handles |
Here's a link to my web album. I have installed the Hendricks door locks.
This webalbum is called Fiberglass work, the door handle install and part
fabrication is in there.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Reno" <fltsend(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 10:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hendricks door handles
>
> Hello gang,
> Any ideas as to the best process of installation for a Hendrick
> door handle and necessary parts that must be conditioned to make it work
> on a rv10? I believe this subject was covered before but cannot find.
> Thanks. R. J. Reno
> ____________________________________________________________
> Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTInoKDVgmaNNwEIDfk1cXkSQYRAu1i98rnKjWFruNwqMUtoFexM4I/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
Just curious, with the mention of alt-air cable. Is anyone considering
an automatic alternate air? Many certified aircraft have them. Basically
an approx 4" diameter aluminum plate, held closed by a spring, that
allows the plate to be sucked open with about 4 lbs of pull. The
resulting opening is on the back side of the induction duct allowing air
inside the cowl to enter instead of the filtered outside air. As long as
the seal for the plate and the spring are checked annually, it is a
maintenance free item.
AirMike wrote:
>
> We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix, prop and
alt air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor).
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | List of firewall penetrations |
Don, question? In the second picture, looks like you have a plenum over
your engine. I am looking at ways of improving my airflow have considered
making my own but..not sure the best way of doing it. I have two general
questions. 1. Considering the heat (after engine shutdown), what materials
are best to use. 2. How does the front of the plenum interface with the
upper cowl.
I have never been happy with the baffle seals and think that is part of my
oil temp problem in the summer. I would love to do away with them and go
with a plenum. I have considered just building a fiberglass one, but
considering how much closer it will be to the engine (than the cowl) I am
worried about it being destroyed by the heat.
Any great ideas out there?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
I really don't have any great shots of waht you want.... but I can shoot
some tomorrow. Fo any explainations, let's arrange a time that both of us
are looking at the same pics.
What time zone are you in? My number is 916-801-8402. Evenings 6-11 best
for me.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/24/09, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 1:48 PM
Hello
I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires
/cables
and tubes going through the firewall.
Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
1) Throttle cable
2) Prop cable
3) Mixture cable
4) Alt air cable
5) Heater cable front
6) Heater cable rear
7) LSE Plasma III input cable
8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
9) Battery cable
10) Fuel pressure cable
11) Oil pressure cable
12) Manifold pressure tube
13) Oil temperature cable
14) CHT cables (6x)
15) EGT cables (6x)
16) Brake fluid container
Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall
penetrations?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
Van's have one that is magnetic, but says it will not work on the IO-540
because of the amount of airflow (opens to soon). I considered it, but
decided to go ahead with the cable, to hard to test for proper operation.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: List of firewall penetrations
Just curious, with the mention of alt-air cable. Is anyone considering an
automatic alternate air? Many certified aircraft have them. Basically an
approx 4" diameter aluminum plate, held closed by a spring, that allows the
plate to be sucked open with about 4 lbs of pull. The resulting opening is
on the back side of the induction duct allowing air inside the cowl to enter
instead of the filtered outside air. As long as the seal for the plate and
the spring are checked annually, it is a maintenance free item.
AirMike wrote:
We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix, prop
and alt air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor).
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I guess my concern with the manual cable is that the pilot has to recognize
that there is an induction problem and activate the alternate air, somethin
g
that is likely to be a high stress situation with loss of most power. I kno
w
that RV pilots have superior skills, but personally, I prefer to use
superior judgement to avoid needing those skills. Hmm, another mod to
design..............
On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 7:21 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
> Van=92s have one that is magnetic, but says it will not work on the IO-5
40
> because of the amount of airflow (opens to soon). I considered it, but
> decided to go ahead with the cable, to hard to test for proper operation.
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly McMullen
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 25, 2009 7:03 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: List of firewall penetrations
>
>
> Just curious, with the mention of alt-air cable. Is anyone considering an
> automatic alternate air? Many certified aircraft have them. Basically an
> approx 4" diameter aluminum plate, held closed by a spring, that allows t
he
> plate to be sucked open with about 4 lbs of pull. The resulting opening i
s
> on the back side of the induction duct allowing air inside the cowl to en
ter
> instead of the filtered outside air. As long as the seal for the plate an
d
> the spring are checked annually, it is a maintenance free item.
>
> AirMike wrote:
>
el(at)Pacbell.net>
>
>
> We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix, prop
and alt air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor).
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Very cool Don,
Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
weight and balance with the airplane level in both
directions, and the fore/aft level line is along
the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
the nose, your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
partner14 wrote:
>
> Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were set to be
weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since he made his public,
I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this info. Weigh in included
all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel pants, and the following painted;
interior, wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
> N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
>
> Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
> As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly in and about
60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport already, no need to
fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was only made aware of one potential
problem, and it's fixed already.
> How about the 3 10's lined up?
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Tim=2C
If I understand this correctly=2C the level should be put on the longerons
that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
> Date: Wed=2C 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
>
>
> Very cool Don=2C
>
> Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
> the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
> a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
> weight and balance with the airplane level in both
> directions=2C and the fore/aft level line is along
> the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
> area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
> the nose=2C your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> partner14 wrote:
m>
> >
> > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were set
to be weighed... mine last Sat=2C and Deems' yesterday. Anyway=2C since he
made his public=2C I guess I should=2C in case someone is tracking this in
fo. Weigh in included all upholstery=2C all carpet=2C balanced wheel pants
=2C and the following painted=3B interior=2C wheel pants=2C gear leg fairin
gs=2C and hs/vs fairing.
> > N414DM Left=639=2C Right=627=2C Nose=369....... Total = 1635
> >
> > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
> > As you can see=2C sorry about the large pics=2C we had over 25 RV's fly
in and about 60 people=2C as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport alr
eady=2C no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was only ma
de aware of one potential problem=2C and it's fixed already.
> > How about the 3 10's lined up?
> >
> > Don McDonald
> > #40636
> >
> > --------
> > Don A. McDonald
> > 40636
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
> >
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5
50F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
Although my actual experience is not there, for some reason I seem to be at
the airport quite a bit.... that being said, here's what I've heard.- Th
ere is no doubt when you need to go to alt air.- HP will drop incredibly,
probably no different that knowing when to go to carb heat.
Several people have tried the automatic versions.- Seems most have some a
mount of trouble.- It opens too soon, opens when it shouldn't at all, sta
ys open, doesn't open, etc.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 2/25/09, Kelly McMullen wrote:
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: List of firewall penetrations
Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 6:35 AM
I guess my concern with the manual cable is that the pilot has to recognize
that there is an induction problem and activate the alternate air, somethi
ng that is likely to be a high stress situation with loss of most power. I
know that RV pilots have superior skills, but personally, I prefer to use s
uperior judgement to avoid needing those skills. Hmm, another mod to design
..............
On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 7:21 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
Van=A2s have one that is magnetic, but says it will not work on the IO-540
because of the amount of airflow (opens to soon).- I considered it, but d
ecided to go ahead with the cable, to hard to test for proper operation.
-
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: List of firewall penetrations
-
Just curious, with the mention of alt-air cable. Is anyone considering an a
utomatic alternate air? Many certified aircraft have them. Basically an app
rox 4" diameter aluminum plate, held closed by a spring, that allows the pl
ate to be sucked open with about 4 lbs of pull. The resulting opening is on
the back side of the induction duct allowing air inside the cowl to enter
instead of the filtered outside air. As long as the seal for the plate and
the spring are checked annually, it is a maintenance free item.
.net>-We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix
, prop and alt air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor).-
-
--
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | List of firewall penetrations - plenum |
As with my previous response, may actual experience is down, but I listen a
lot.- Several people, one of the 10's in the pic I sent yesterday, have
used fiberglass.- You make the initial layup in the top cowl with it opbv
iously inverted.- The transition to the top cowl was a little tricky.-
What I did was take a bunch of measurements and then fabricated a loop to s
imulate the openning of the top cowl.- I also installed sheet metal on th
e-back which I hope will eliminate the stagnent air by forcing the air do
wn and through the cylinders.- One of the shot shows mounting brackets.
- Any other questions, don't hesitate.- Need any more pics, let me know
.
DonMcDonald-
--- On Wed, 2/25/09, Rene Felker wrote:
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 5:58 AM
Don, question? -In the second picture, looks like you have a plenum over
your engine.- I am looking at ways of improving my airflow have considere
d making my own but=85.not sure the best way of doing it.- I have two gen
eral questions.- 1. Considering the heat (after engine shutdown), what ma
terials are best to use.- 2. -How does the front of the plenum interfac
e with the upper cowl.
-
I have never been happy with the baffle seals and think that is part of my
oil temp problem in the summer.- I would love to do away with them and go
with a plenum.- I have considered just building a fiberglass one, but co
nsidering how much closer it will be to the engine (than the cowl) I am wor
ried about it being destroyed by the heat.
-
Any great ideas out there?
-
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
-
I really don't have any great shots of waht you want.... but I can shoot so
me tomorrow.- Fo any explainations, let's arrange a time that both of us
are looking at the same pics.
What time zone are you in?- My number is 916-801-8402.- Evenings 6-11 b
est for me.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/24/09, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
Michael Wellenzohn" -Hello I just thought wanted to
get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /cablesand tubes going thro
ugh the firewall. -Here is the list of things which need to cross the fir
ewall.1) Throttle cable2) Prop cable3) Mixture cable4) Alt air cable5) Heat
er cable front6) Heater cable rear7) LSE Plasma III input cable8) LSE ignit
ion cables (3x)9) Battery cable10) Fuel pressure cable11) Oil pressure cabl
e12) Manifold pressure tube13) Oil temperature cable14) CHT cables (6x)15)
EGT cables (6x)16) Brake fluid container -Does anyone have a picture of h
ow and where they did the firewall penetrations? -CheersMichael -------
--RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)#511 - - - -Read this topi
c online here: -http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#2318
85 - - - - - - - - -
-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
I think the longerons that run the full length are a little
lower, aren't they? I may be wrong, but yeah, they're not
far from the door sil. I do think that the door sil is
parallel to them though, but I never measured it to
be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
door sils for the horizontal.
You'd be surprised how huge a difference it makes if you
don't have things leveled though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Danny Riggs wrote:
> Tim,
> If I understand this correctly, the level should be put on the longerons
> that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
>
> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
> > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
> >
> >
> > Very cool Don,
> >
> > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
> > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
> > a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
> > weight and balance with the airplane level in both
> > directions, and the fore/aft level line is along
> > the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
> > area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
> > the nose, your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >
> >
> >
> > partner14 wrote:
>
> > >
> > > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were
> set to be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since
> he made his public, I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this
> info. Weigh in included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel
> pants, and the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg
> fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
> > > N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
> > >
> > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
> > > As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly
> in and about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
> already, no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was
> only made aware of one potential problem, and it's fixed already.
> > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
> > >
> > > Don McDonald
> > > #40636
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Don A. McDonald
> > > 40636
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Attachments:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
> > >
> > >
> &=====================
> >===========
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. View
> post.
> <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filtered air box - mixture door - pics please |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
The diagrams from Vans for the mixture door at the front intake of the FAB are
very poor and confusing. Any advise here would be appreciated. Please post any
detailed pictures of your mixture door on the FAB
Also, any hints on the install. Like..........
How far back in the box is the door?
How close is the fit?
Advice on installation
The diagrams on the bypass door are good - but the more important mixture door
suck.
Note - Tim Olsen has some verrrry good pictures and advice on the install of the
FAB box to the cowling on his web site. Kuddos to Tim.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232040#232040
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
That makes sense. Thanks=2C Dan
> Date: Wed=2C 25 Feb 2009 10:30:28 -0600
> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
>
>
> I think the longerons that run the full length are a little
> lower=2C aren't they? I may be wrong=2C but yeah=2C they're not
> far from the door sil. I do think that the door sil is
> parallel to them though=2C but I never measured it to
> be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
> line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
> door sils for the horizontal.
>
> You'd be surprised how huge a difference it makes if you
> don't have things leveled though.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> Danny Riggs wrote:
> > Tim=2C
> > If I understand this correctly=2C the level should be put on the longer
ons
> > that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
> >
> > > Date: Wed=2C 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
> > > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
> > >
> > >
> > > Very cool Don=2C
> > >
> > > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
> > > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
> > > a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
> > > weight and balance with the airplane level in both
> > > directions=2C and the fore/aft level line is along
> > > the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
> > > area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
> > > the nose=2C your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
> > >
> > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > partner14 wrote:
> >
> > > >
> > > > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were
> > set to be weighed... mine last Sat=2C and Deems' yesterday. Anyway=2C s
ince
> > he made his public=2C I guess I should=2C in case someone is tracking t
his
> > info. Weigh in included all upholstery=2C all carpet=2C balanced wheel
> > pants=2C and the following painted=3B interior=2C wheel pants=2C gear l
eg
> > fairings=2C and hs/vs fairing.
> > > > N414DM Left=639=2C Right=627=2C Nose=369....... Total = 163
5
> > > >
> > > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento
).
> > > > As you can see=2C sorry about the large pics=2C we had over 25 RV's
fly
> > in and about 60 people=2C as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
> > already=2C no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was
> > only made aware of one potential problem=2C and it's fixed already.
> > > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
> > > >
> > > > Don McDonald
> > > > #40636
> > > >
> > > > --------
> > > > Don A. McDonald
> > > > 40636
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Read this topic online here:
> > > >
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Attachments:
> > > >
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
> > > >
> > > >
> > &=====================
> > >===========
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> > Windows Live=99: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. View
> > post.
> > <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-
cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
It=92s the same Hotmail=AE. If by =93same=94 you mean up to 70% faster.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Same_022009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In Level the Aircraft |
In Section 4 "Gear Leg & Wheel Fairings" page 4 Step 5
"Raise the airplane on jacks so the tires are just off the ground ...
Level the airplane longitudinally and laterally at the F-1015C Mid Cabin
Deck."
The mid cabin deck is the door sill.
Larry Rosen
Danny Riggs wrote:
> That makes sense. Thanks, Dan
>
> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:30:28 -0600
> > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
> >
> >
> > I think the longerons that run the full length are a little
> > lower, aren't they? I may be wrong, but yeah, they're not
> > far from the door sil. I do think that the door sil is
> > parallel to them though, but I never measured it to
> > be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
> > line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
> > door sils for the horizontal.
> >
> > You'd be surprised how huge a difference it makes if you
> > don't have things leveled though.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >
> >
> >
> > Danny Riggs wrote:
> > > Tim,
> > > If I understand this correctly, the level should be put on the
> longerons
> > > that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
> > >
> > > > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
> > > > From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> > > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Very cool Don,
> > > >
> > > > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
> > > > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
> > > > a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
> > > > weight and balance with the airplane level in both
> > > > directions, and the fore/aft level line is along
> > > > the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
> > > > area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
> > > > the nose, your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
> > > >
> > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > partner14 wrote:
> > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's
> were
> > > set to be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway,
> since
> > > he made his public, I guess I should, in case someone is tracking
> this
> > > info. Weigh in included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel
> > > pants, and the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg
> > > fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
> > > > > N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
> > > > >
> > > > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators
> (Sacramento).
> > > > > As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25
> RV's fly
> > > in and about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
> > > already, no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was
> > > only made aware of one potential problem, and it's fixed already.
> > > > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
> > > > >
> > > > > Don McDonald
> > > > > #40636
> > > > >
> > > > > --------
> > > > > Don A. McDonald
> > > > > 40636
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Read this topic online here:
> > > > >
> > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Attachments:
> > > > >
> > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > &=====================
> > > >===========
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. View
> > > post.
> > >
> <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
>
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> >
> >
> >
> > _====
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Its the same Hotmail. If by same you mean up to 70% faster. Get
> your account now.
> <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Same_022009>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New picture pilot certificate |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>
> I saw something, in I think an AOPA publication, that said pilots
> needed to have pictures on their licenses by sometime next year. I
I believe the AOPA successfully lobbied that you can carry a gov't
issued photo ID (drivers license, passport, etc) along with your pilot
certificate and that would be sufficient to satisfy the photo requirement.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
Use the bottom of the door opening as the level reference. That is
what the plans tell you to use for leveling the airframe.
Jim
C
>
> I think the longerons that run
the full length are a little
> lower, aren't they? I may be wrong,
but yeah, they're not
> far from the door sil. I do think that
the door sil is
> parallel to them though, but I never measured it
to
> be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
>
line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
>
door sils for the horizontal.
>
> You'd be surprised how
huge a difference it makes if you
> don't have things leveled
though.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> Danny Riggs wrote:
>> Tim,
>> If I understand this correctly, the level should be put on the
longerons
>> that form the door sills? Is that correct?
Thanks
>>
>> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19
-0600
>> >
From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
>> >
>> > Subject: Re: RV10-List:
Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
>> >
>> > -->
RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>> >
>> > Very cool Don,
>> >
>> > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he
weighed
>> > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels
blocked up
>> > a couple extra inches. You want to make
sure to do your
>> > weight and balance with the airplane
level in both
>> > directions, and the fore/aft level line
is along
>> > the longerons that run along the aircraft
under the door
>> > area. If you don't have the rear wheels
elevated above
>> > the nose, your C.G. measure will be off
quite a bit.
>> >
>> > Tim Olson - RV-10
N104CD - Flying
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>> > partner14 wrote:
>> > > -->
RV10-List message posted by: "partner14"
>>
>> > >
>>
> > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's
were
>> set to be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems'
yesterday. Anyway, since
>> he made his public, I guess I
should, in case someone is tracking this
>> info. Weigh in
included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel
>> pants,
and the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg
>>
fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
>> > > N414DM Left=639,
Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
>> > >
>> > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the
SacRvators
>> (Sacramento).
>> > > As you can
see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly
>> in
and about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
>> already, no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because
I was
>> only made aware of one potential problem, and it's
fixed already.
>> > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
>> > >
>> > > Don McDonald
>>
> > #40636
>> > >
>> > >
--------
>> > > Don A. McDonald
>> > >
40636
>> > >
>> > >
>>
> >
>> > >
>> > > Read this
topic online here:
>> > >
>> > >
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
>>
> >
>> > >
>> > >
>>
> >
>> > > Attachments:
>> >
>
>> > >
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
>> >
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
>>
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
>> > >
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
>> >
>
>> > >
>> &=====================
>> >===========
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Windows Live™: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows
Live. View
>> post.
>>
<http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
List Features Navigator to browse
such as List Un/Subscription,
7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
content also available via the Web Forums!
--> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
John,
When you have a few minutes can you dig up some photos of
painted props. Especially Hartzell props. I have an interest in painting
the tips leaving most of the body factory color but I wanted to see what
others were doing design wise.
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | New picture pilot certificate |
I believe that the pix on the license is necessary if you plan on flying ou
t of the country only. Dan
> Date: Wed=2C 25 Feb 2009 13:25:42 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: New picture pilot certificate
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> >
> >
> > I saw something=2C in I think an AOPA publication=2C that said pilots
> > needed to have pictures on their licenses by sometime next year. I
>
> I believe the AOPA successfully lobbied that you can carry a gov't
> issued photo ID (drivers license=2C passport=2C etc) along with your pilo
t
> certificate and that would be sufficient to satisfy the photo requirement
.
>
> -Dj
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE=85more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_h
owitworks_022009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New picture pilot certificate |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Danny Riggs wrote:
> I believe that the pix on the license is necessary if you plan on
> flying out of the country only. Dan
I think that part was also not implemented. Here is the AOPA web
page on it:
<http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/regulatory/certificates.html>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | New picture pilot certificate |
Well that's cool! I needed to get a new license anyway as mine has gotten m
isplaced lately. I'm not flying now as I'm building a -10. That's taking al
l my time and money. Thanks for the link. Dan
> Date: Wed=2C 25 Feb 2009 14:38:43 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: New picture pilot certificate
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> Danny Riggs wrote:
> > I believe that the pix on the license is necessary if you plan on
> > flying out of the country only. Dan
>
> I think that part was also not implemented. Here is the AOPA web
> page on it:
>
> <http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/regulatory/certificates.html>
>
> fyi
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
> http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
>
> "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
> airplane." --Dave Prizio=2C 30 Aug 2005
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_0220
09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Thanks Jim/Larry,
I do think that the longeron and door sil are probably both
identical in angle, so this may be a horse-a-piece kind of
deal. I don't think you'd see any difference, but....
Straight from the RV-10 Weight and Balance section, provided
by Vans:
"Leveling Datum - A point or surface on the airframe where a
level can be placed to determine when the aircraft is in a
level position for weighing. For the RV-10 the Level Datum
line is the fuselage longeron at the door opening"
So, you guys may well be correct, and probably are, that the
door sil works, but the official word in the RV-10 W&B
procedure section from Van's specifies the longeron.
If anyone is near their plane, maybe you could take a sec
to verify if the door sil is completely parallel to the
longeron or not. I bet it is.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Use the bottom of the door opening as the level reference. That is what
> the plans tell you to use for leveling the airframe.
>
> Jim C
>
> >
> > I think the longerons that run the full length are a little
> > lower, aren't they? I may be wrong, but yeah, they're not
> > far from the door sil. I do think that the door sil is
> > parallel to them though, but I never measured it to
> > be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
> > line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
> > door sils for the horizontal.
> >
> > You'd be surprised how huge a difference it makes if you
> > don't have things leveled though.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >
> >
> >
> > Danny Riggs wrote:
> >> Tim,
> >> If I understand this correctly, the level should be put on the longerons
> >> that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
> >>
> >> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
> >> >
> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
> >> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Very cool Don,
> >> >
> >> > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
> >> > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
> >> > a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
> >> > weight and balance with the airplane level in both
> >> > directions, and the fore/aft level line is along
> >> > the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
> >> > area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
> >> > the nose, your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
> >> >
> >> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > partner14 wrote:
> >>
> >> > >
> >> > > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were
> >> set to be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since
> >> he made his public, I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this
> >> info. Weigh in included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel
> >> pants, and the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg
> >> fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
> >> > > N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
> >> > >
> >> > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators
> >> (Sacramento).
> >> > > As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly
> >> in and about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
> >> already, no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was
> >> only made aware of one potential problem, and it's fixed already.
> >> > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
> >> > >
> >> > > Don McDonald
> >> > > #40636
> >> > >
> >> > > --------
> >> > > Don A. McDonald
> >> > > 40636
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > Read this topic online here:
> >> > >
> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > Attachments:
> >> > >
> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> &=====================
> >> >===========
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. View
> >> post.
> >>
> <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
> >>
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> *
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box - mixture door - pics please |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I guess the little door is for the carburetor models - it is not needed on my IO-540
fuel injected model. Only the Alt door at the bottom is needed
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232093#232093
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
The door sill sits directly on top of the longeron. It gives a
convenient place to set the level.
Yes a horse-a-piece kind of deal.
Larry
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim/Larry,
>
> I do think that the longeron and door sil are probably both
> identical in angle, so this may be a horse-a-piece kind of
> deal. I don't think you'd see any difference, but....
>
> Straight from the RV-10 Weight and Balance section, provided
> by Vans:
>
> "Leveling Datum - A point or surface on the airframe where a
> level can be placed to determine when the aircraft is in a
> level position for weighing. For the RV-10 the Level Datum
> line is the fuselage longeron at the door opening"
>
> So, you guys may well be correct, and probably are, that the
> door sil works, but the official word in the RV-10 W&B
> procedure section from Van's specifies the longeron.
> If anyone is near their plane, maybe you could take a sec
> to verify if the door sil is completely parallel to the
> longeron or not. I bet it is.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
>> Use the bottom of the door opening as the level reference. That is
>> what the plans tell you to use for leveling the airframe.
>>
>> Jim C
>>
>> >
>> > I think the longerons that run the full length are a little
>> > lower, aren't they? I may be wrong, but yeah, they're not
>> > far from the door sil. I do think that the door sil is
>> > parallel to them though, but I never measured it to
>> > be sure. I just used a long level along that rivet
>> > line for the longeron. And the same long level across both
>> > door sils for the horizontal.
>> >
>> > You'd be surprised how huge a difference it makes if you
>> > don't have things leveled though.
>> >
>> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Danny Riggs wrote:
>> >> Tim,
>> >> If I understand this correctly, the level should be put on the
>> longerons
>> >> that form the door sills? Is that correct? Thanks
>> >>
>> >> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:58:19 -0600
>> >> >
>> From: Tim(at)MyRV10.com
>> >> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> >> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > Very cool Don,
>> >> >
>> >> > Everyone should make note of Don's last photo...he weighed
>> >> > the plane with the scales on the rear wheels blocked up
>> >> > a couple extra inches. You want to make sure to do your
>> >> > weight and balance with the airplane level in both
>> >> > directions, and the fore/aft level line is along
>> >> > the longerons that run along the aircraft under the door
>> >> > area. If you don't have the rear wheels elevated above
>> >> > the nose, your C.G. measure will be off quite a bit.
>> >> >
>> >> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > partner14 wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our
>> 10's were
>> >> set to be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway,
>> since
>> >> he made his public, I guess I should, in case someone is tracking
>> this
>> >> info. Weigh in included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel
>> >> pants, and the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg
>> >> fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
>> >> > > N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators
>> >> (Sacramento).
>> >> > > As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25
>> RV's fly
>> >> in and about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport
>> >> already, no need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was
>> >> only made aware of one potential problem, and it's fixed already.
>> >> > > How about the 3 10's lined up?
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Don McDonald
>> >> > > #40636
>> >> > >
>> >> > > --------
>> >> > > Don A. McDonald
>> >> > > 40636
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Read this topic online here:
>> >> > >
>> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Attachments:
>> >> > >
>> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
>> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
>> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
>> >> > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> &=====================
>> >> >===========
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >> Windows Live: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. View
>> >> post.
>> >>
>> <http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009>
>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> *
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> *
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hendricks door handles |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Wait a minute, Bob. Is that a pair of Crocs you're wearing in photo number 100?
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232098#232098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no
luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
2 what functions do you control from the stick??
3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
again, or go a different route??? Why?
5 Was price high on your list of importance???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
Ch grips are now at Tostens. http://tostenmanufacturing.com/
I am not yet flying, but I just installed these a couple of weeks ago and they
look and feel good to me.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232124#232124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
G'day Linn, FYI the CH stick grips can be viewed at tostenmanufacturing.com
and you can contact Kevin Willianson via email at acgrips(at)yahoo.com.=0A=0A
I purchased the CS-8's recently as I found them to be comfortable; useable
from the left and right handed positions; they have a comfortable hand rest
on the grip; they feature more than enough switches on the grip and I feel
that they're value for money.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299-
- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________
__________=0AFrom: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matroni
cs.com=0ASent: Thursday, 26 February, 2009 9:59:31 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List:
uth.net>=0A=0AI'm wanting to order my stick grips.=0AI looked at MAC and In
finity and tried to find the CH sticks with no luck (unless I take up compu
ter gaming!!!)=0ASo, I have some questions for those who are flying:=0A=0A1
what stick grip did you order ..... and why?- URL???=0A=0A2 what functio
ns do you control from the stick??=0A=0A3 What functions do you wish you ha
d provided for on the stick??? ;-)=0A=0A4 Now that you have experience with
your grip ..... would you do it again, or go a different route???- Why?
-========================
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admi
======0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most
with a smarter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinb
ox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks Eric!!!
Linn
egohr1 wrote:
>
> Ch grips are now at Tostens. http://tostenmanufacturing.com/
>
> I am not yet flying, but I just installed these a couple of weeks ago and they
look and feel good to me.
>
> --------
> eric gohr
> EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232124#232124
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks Patrick!
Linn
Patrick Pulis wrote:
> G'day Linn, FYI the CH stick grips can be viewed at
> tostenmanufacturing.com and you can contact Kevin Willianson via email
> at acgrips(at)yahoo.com .
>
> I purchased the CS-8's recently as I found them to be comfortable;
> useable from the left and right handed positions; they have a
> comfortable hand rest on the grip; they feature more than enough
> switches on the grip and I feel that they're value for money.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
> #40299 VH-XPP
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* linn
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, 26 February, 2009 9:59:31 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: stick grips
>
> >
>
> I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
> I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no
> luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
> So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
>
> 1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
>
> 2 what functions do you control from the stick??
>
> 3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
>
> 4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
> again, or go a different route??? Why?
>
> 5 Was price high on your list of importance???htts.com/" nbsp; -->
>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox.
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>Take a look
> <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/galaxy/mail/tagline2/*http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox>.
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
1. Infinity, fighter pilot want a be I guess.....looked comfortable and had
different switch positions
2. AP Disconnect, Trim (Al and EL), Flaps, PTT, Feq flip flop, Ident.
3. Comm switching from the audio panel
4. I would do it again but I would not do the ident and would do the audio
panel switching. I will be able to easily change that but have put it off
to next annual....ready to get the plane back in the air.
5. Price was not high on my list.
I find the grip very comfortable......looks cool also.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: stick grips
I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no
luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
2 what functions do you control from the stick??
3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
again, or go a different route??? Why?
5 Was price high on your list of importance???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
1. No particular reason, other than they looked like the grips in the
Army helicopters I flew and I liked and felt comfortable with those.
2. Pitch trim, aileron trim, rudder trim, autopilot disconnect/
control wheel steering, Vertical Power "acknowledge", and com 1 freq.
flip-flop.
3. Happy with my set up.
4. Again, happy with my choice
5. No.
David Maib
40559
flying.
On Feb 25, 2009, at 6:29 PM, linn wrote:
I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no
luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
2 what functions do you control from the stick??
3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
again, or go a different route??? Why?
5 Was price high on your list of importance???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
I gather your talking about the infinity grips- right?.. they are about as
close as I recall to the UH-1 grips.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Maib" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: stick grips
>
> 1. No particular reason, other than they looked like the grips in the
> Army helicopters I flew and I liked and felt comfortable with those.
> 2. Pitch trim, aileron trim, rudder trim, autopilot disconnect/ control
> wheel steering, Vertical Power "acknowledge", and com 1 freq. flip-flop.
> 3. Happy with my set up.
> 4. Again, happy with my choice
> 5. No.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> flying.
>
>
> On Feb 25, 2009, at 6:29 PM, linn wrote:
>
>
> I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
> I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no luck
> (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
> So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
>
> 1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
>
> 2 what functions do you control from the stick??
>
> 3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
>
> 4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
> again, or go a different route??? Why?
>
> 5 Was price high on your list of importance???
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
Have not flown but I just installed Infinity and like the look and feel.
I have:
coolie hat trim
left toggle - up com1 flip flop and down for com 2 flip flop
right toggle -moves left to page EFIS 1 and move right for EFIS 2 paging
middle button is A/P disconnect
Pinky is com 1 to com 2 swap
trigger is PTT
Playing around in the plane I think I am gonna like it.
Chris
#40072
"The Perpetual Builder since October 2003"
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 6:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: stick grips
>
> I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
> I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with no
> luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
> So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
>
> 1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
>
> 2 what functions do you control from the stick??
>
> 3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
>
> 4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
> again, or go a different route??? Why?
>
> 5 Was price high on your list of importance???
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Don,
You should be happy with your W&B numbers. After the paint I'll guess you
will be round about 1660 and I think you will be rewarded with good
performance numbers too.
Dan Checkoway has provided a W&B data base at www.rvproject.com/wab. Anyone
is free to post their results and it provides a convenient way for us to see
how we compare to the rest of the fleet.
Dick Sipp
N110DV
----- Original Message -----
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>Y
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 12:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In
>
> Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were set to
> be weighed... mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since he made
> his public, I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this info.
> Weigh in included all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel pants, and
> the following painted; interior, wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and
> hs/vs fairing.
> N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
>
> Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
> As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly in and
> about 60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport already, no
> need to fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was only made aware
> of one potential problem, and it's fixed already.
> How about the 3 10's lined up?
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231965#231965
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2797cc_395.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2792c_125.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2762c_171.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p2210036c_110.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
| From: | "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> |
Michael here is a link where I mounted my lightspeed. Sorry I do not have a VP-200.
I mounted them using 4 lord mounts. I have easy access to all cable and plugs.
http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/L5LenCCI/7068012/3161550
Geoff
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232165#232165
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Yep! I also flew the OH-58 and the CH-54 and I seem to recall the
grips were all somewhat similar.
I also have the trigger as PTT.
On Feb 25, 2009, at 9:43 PM, pascal wrote:
I gather your talking about the infinity grips- right?.. they are
about as close as I recall to the UH-1 grips.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Maib" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: stick grips
>
> 1. No particular reason, other than they looked like the grips in
> the Army helicopters I flew and I liked and felt comfortable with
> those.
> 2. Pitch trim, aileron trim, rudder trim, autopilot disconnect/
> control wheel steering, Vertical Power "acknowledge", and com 1
> freq. flip-flop.
> 3. Happy with my set up.
> 4. Again, happy with my choice
> 5. No.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> flying.
>
>
> On Feb 25, 2009, at 6:29 PM, linn wrote:
>
>
> I'm wanting to order my stick grips.
> I looked at MAC and Infinity and tried to find the CH sticks with
> no luck (unless I take up computer gaming!!!)
> So, I have some questions for those who are flying:
>
> 1 what stick grip did you order ..... and why? URL???
>
> 2 what functions do you control from the stick??
>
> 3 What functions do you wish you had provided for on the stick??? ;-)
>
> 4 Now that you have experience with your grip ..... would you do it
> again, or go a different route??? Why?
>
> 5 Was price high on your list of importance???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
No VP-200, but dual LSEs...
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Electrical/index.html
Scroll down towards the bottom for several photos.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232188#232188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
Here's where I mounted my dual LSE's.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 2/26/09, jayb wrote:
From: jayb <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU
Date: Thursday, February 26, 2009, 3:39 AM
No VP-200, but dual LSEs...
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Electrical/index.html
Scroll down towards the bottom for several photos.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232188#232188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve" <steveg(at)redmondair.com> |
| Subject: | FW: New Stock Market Terms |
Subject: FW: NEW STOCK MARKET TERMS
New Stock Market Terms
CEO - Chief Embezzlement Officer
CFO - Corporate Fraud Officer
BULL MARKET - A random market movement causing an investor to mistake
himself for a financial genius
BEAR MARKET - a 6 to 18 month period when the kids get no allowance, the
wife gets no jewelry, and the husband gets no sex.
VALUE INVESTING - The art of buying low and selling lower.
P/E RATIO - The percentage of investors wetting their pants as the market
keeps crashing.
BROKER - What my financial planner has made me.
STANDARD & POOR - Your life in a nutshell.
STOCK ANALYST - Idiot who just downgraded your stock.
STOCK SPLIT - When your ex-wife and her lawyer split your assets equally
between themselves.
MARKET CORRECTION - The day after you buy stocks.
CASH FLOW - The movement your money makes as it disappears down the toilet.
YAHOO - What you yell after selling it to some poor sucker for $240 per
share.
WINDOWS - What you jump out of when you're the sucker who bought Yahoo at
$240 per share.
INSTITUTIONAL INVESTOR - Past year investor who's now locked up in a
nuthouse.
PROFIT - an archaic word no longer in use.
LIQUIDITY - When you look at your investments and wet your pants.
# # # # #
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in Delta Airlines
one year ago, you will have $49.00 today.
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in AIG
one year ago, you will have $33.00 today.
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in Lehman Brothers
one year ago, you will have $0.00 today.
But---- if you had purchased $1000 worth of beer
one year ago, drank all the beer,
then turned in the aluminum cans for recycling refund,
you will have received $214.00.
Based on the above, the best current investment plan
is to drink heavily & recycle.
It's called the 401-Keg.
Mary <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/40.gif>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/25/09 06:40:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FW: New Stock Market Terms |
Heil 0bama. Is that spelled with a number or a letter?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 8:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: New Stock Market Terms
Subject: FW: NEW STOCK MARKET TERMS
New Stock Market Terms
CEO - Chief Embezzlement Officer
CFO - Corporate Fraud Officer
BULL MARKET - A random market movement causing an investor to mistake
himself for a financial genius
BEAR MARKET - a 6 to 18 month period when the kids get no allowance, the
wife gets no jewelry, and the husband gets no sex.
VALUE INVESTING - The art of buying low and selling lower.
P/E RATIO - The percentage of investors wetting their pants as the market
keeps crashing.
BROKER - What my financial planner has made me.
STANDARD & POOR - Your life in a nutshell.
STOCK ANALYST - Idiot who just downgraded your stock.
STOCK SPLIT - When your ex-wife and her lawyer split your assets equally
between themselves.
MARKET CORRECTION - The day after you buy stocks.
CASH FLOW - The movement your money makes as it disappears down the toilet.
YAHOO - What you yell after selling it to some poor sucker for $240 per
share.
WINDOWS - What you jump out of when you're the sucker who bought Yahoo at
$240 per share.
INSTITUTIONAL INVESTOR - Past year investor who's now locked up in a
nuthouse.
PROFIT - an archaic word no longer in use.
LIQUIDITY - When you look at your investments and wet your pants.
# # # # #
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in Delta Airlines
one year ago, you will have $49.00 today.
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in AIG
one year ago, you will have $33.00 today.
If you had purchased $1000 of shares in Lehman Brothers
one year ago, you will have $0.00 today.
But---- if you had purchased $1000 worth of beer
one year ago, drank all the beer,
then turned in the aluminum cans for recycling refund,
you will have received $214.00.
Based on the above, the best current investment plan
is to drink heavily & recycle.
It's called the 401-Keg.
Mary <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/40.gif>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I used Van's wood grips because I think the wood looks kind of classy, in
moderation.
I put their PTT in front, AP disconnect and Van's trim on top in the
supplied cover plate.
After about a year I had lost both little button caps on top of the AP
disconnects. Vans sells a rubber cap replacement for about $9 that works
well. I looked all over the place for a better price but no joy. Seemed
like a pretty simple part, especially here close to Silcone Valley. Not.
I wish I had put the trim switch in a different part of the grip cover.
Where the trim is now, it takes two hands to fly and trim on take-off if my
left thumb is trimming nose down. With my left hand on the grip and the
stick needing forward pressure, my left thumb rises too high to push on the
back part of the grip, so I have to resort to pushing with my right hand
while lefty does the trimming. I've learned to be very careful to get the
trim right before take-off, but a few of the first departures were
interesting.
On a recent customer's RV8, we installed Vans grips and trim switch, but
this time with the trim switch near the top of the cover plate, where my
AP disconnect is located. That works much better.
I couldn't bear to use the 2-lb. (OK, maybe 5 oz.) steel collar supplied
with Van's grips. I got a similar aluminum part from McMaster. For $160 I
think Vans should spring for the lighter part .
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Flying, 330 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I'm installing the CH/Tosten. I chose them over the Infinity because I
wanted fewer switches. Specifically I didn't plan to put flaps on the
stick.
Fit and finish is great.
The rotation of the grip is easily adjustable. The design of the grip
and it's rotation feature makes it seem reasonable to fly it with the
grip free to rotate, making it easy and comfortable to fly with either
hand. Has anyone done this or have any experience with it?
In any case, I'd make the same decision again but I have no meaningful
experience with the product.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finished, almost!!!! |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
Finally 'almost' finished with this iteration of the panel and plane!!! We enjoy
it. Third picture shows that we may need a larger vehicle, as all of this came
out of the -10 and we still had room in the back seats for more!!!! larry &
gayle
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232284#232284
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6274_124.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6276_200.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_6278_551.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Dombroski <f_dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV -10 Partner Wanted Final Assembly NJ |
Based at N40 in Pittstown NJ, hangar.- Everything New, IO540, with blende
d airfoil prop.- The panel is set for 2 AFS screens and a Dynon D100 back
up.- Radio stack includes Garmin 240 audio, GNS 430 W, Icom A210, AFS GP
S W receiver, GTX 330, TruTrac Digifly 2 VSGV fully coupled approach AP.-
Overhead console, most common upgrades.- The plane is in final assembly
with builder assist.- I will fly in about 30 days. Pictures available.-
Please contact f.dombroski at yahoo dot com.=0A-=0AThanks=0AFrank Dombro
ski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in
it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight
at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2
speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too
small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can
hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around.
I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finished, almost!!!! |
| From: | "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net> |
Nice Larry!
What's the thicker padded section for on the tunnel in front of the fuel switch?
Knee padding?
Dwight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232327#232327
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finished, almost!!!! |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
sharp eye!!! yes--knee, leg padding for my bony legs, knees!!!. works fine.
larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232340#232340
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
I have decided to pursue some financing to move my project forward a bit
faster. NAFCO will finance the project, but wants me to have FULL
coverage flying insurance to loan on firewall forward parts (engine
etc.) They think I may go fly the thing without insurance once I get
the engine hung and be out their money if I fold it up without coverage.
Plausible I guess. Here is an insurance quote I got from an agent they
recommended. I told the agent I have about 200 hours total with a high
perf/complex endorsement and 15 hours in a V35 and no IFR. (I plan to
be IFR rated by the end of summer.) The hull value is only 110k for now
because I plan to borrow about 100k. I will raise this before I fly. I
guess they want me to get a checked out in a -10 before they loan. Does
this all sound reasonable? Any suggestions on other lenders? EAA's Air
Fleet Capital says they are not lending on experimentals now. Thanks
for input.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ajruk84(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 2:22 PM
Subject: Fwd: Rukavina Aircraft Insurance (N89DA)
Hi Dave:
I received an alternative quote today from Aerospace Managers. It is
slightly better than the AIG quote.
2008 RV 10 N89DA
Hull value: $110,000
Deductibles: $250 not in motion / $2500 in motion
Med pay: $3000 per seat
Liability: $1,000,000 / $100,000 per passenger
Pilot: Dave Leikam to receive 10 hours dual instruction and 15 full stop
landings all in make and model prior to solo.
Annual premium: $2,474
Thank you!
Tony Rukavina
Rukavina Aircraft Insurance
2100 Sedalia Lane
Lexington, KY 40513
866-296-9665 toll free phone
866-563-3299 fax
www.rukair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Financing/Insurance |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
I went through Air fleet and the loan was sold to PNC
out of PA I'm on the road but you may want to
see if they can deal with you. The insurance requireme
nts were builders risk and movement coverage not to inclu
de flight $1200 for the year I'm not surprised to hear
of issues with loans...banks seem to be holding onto o
ur tax...I mean their money even though THEY have been
bailed out
Rick S
40185
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:14:56
Subject: RV10-List: Financing/Insurance
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
I just went through this 3 months ago. Probably a good thing that Airfle
et is now saying they are not loaning because they tried to royally screw m
e. Long story short, they were using NAFCO to underwrite their loan becaus
e they were not doing it at the time and tacked on their interest and fees
on top of NAFCO's. Can you say 50% of the principal amount in Interest in
5 years! It wasn't pretty and I wouldn't touch Airfleet with a 20 foot pol
e. They didn't even tell NAFCO all the relevant information and ended up q
uoting the wrong loan type. Well I went with NAFCO directly and was very p
leased for the most part.
All of what you said sounds normal for their completed aircraft loan whic
h they will give if you have the major components already even if you are n
ot done. With that, it's a full 20 year loan at the lower interest rate ra
ther than a short term up near 10%. As you discovered the down side is the
y need flying type coverage. Jenny Estes at NationAir was very helpful in
sorting out the in motion but not flying insurance they really needed. The
checking out in a -10 requirement is a new one and I certainly didn't do t
hat. I do have a Commercial with Multi and an IFR rating and around 600 ho
urs though so that might have had something to do with it. I would ask for
clarification on that. Unless you can find a local bank, your only option
at the moment really is NAFCO.
Give me a holler if you need any more info.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Financing/Insurance
I have decided to pursue some financing to move my project forward a bit fa
ster. NAFCO will finance the project, but wants me to have FULL coverage f
lying insurance to loan on firewall forward parts (engine etc.) They think
I may go fly the thing without insurance once I get the engine hung and be
out their money if I fold it up without coverage. Plausible I guess. Her
e is an insurance quote I got from an agent they recommended. I told the a
gent I have about 200 hours total with a high perf/complex endorsement and
15 hours in a V35 and no IFR. (I plan to be IFR rated by the end of summer
.) The hull value is only 110k for now because I plan to borrow about 100k
. I will raise this before I fly. I guess they want me to get a checked o
ut in a -10 before they loan. Does this all sound reasonable? Any suggest
ions on other lenders? EAA's Air Fleet Capital says they are not lending o
n experimentals now. Thanks for input.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ajruk84(at)aol.com<mailto:Ajruk84(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 2:22 PM
Subject: Fwd: Rukavina Aircraft Insurance (N89DA)
Hi Dave:
I received an alternative quote today from Aerospace Managers. It is slight
ly better than the AIG quote.
2008 RV 10 N89DA
Hull value: $110,000
Deductibles: $250 not in motion / $2500 in motion
Med pay: $3000 per seat
Liability: $1,000,000 / $100,000 per passenger
Pilot: Dave Leikam to receive 10 hours dual instruction and 15 full stop la
ndings all in make and model prior to solo.
Annual premium: $2,474
Thank you!
Tony Rukavina
Rukavina Aircraft Insurance
2100 Sedalia Lane
Lexington, KY 40513
866-296-9665 toll free phone
866-563-3299 fax
www.rukair.com<http://www.rukair.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Financing/Insurance |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components
during build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but
think I will want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be
stored in my locked hangar, none at home.
On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 7:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
wrote:
> I just went through this 3 months ago. Well I went with NAFCO directly and
was very
> pleased for the most part.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the
prop via the center of the crank shaft.
I don't the methods
used to remove it.
Jim C
N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2
Hours!)
Watson
Does the metal cup
pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before
installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is
in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific
reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
I've used Nationair (nationair.com) for years, works ok for me.
They have builders policies as well as when it's flying.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components
during build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but
think I will want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be
stored in my locked hangar, none at home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Hi Bill:
I attached a copy of the Lycoming SI1435 that should cover it pretty
well. I went through the same questions. If it doesn't show up you can
search the nes and locate it.
Byron
N253RV Assigned
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Aahhh, nevermind. I've re-read SI-1435 a third time and see that I must
"Remove expansion plug for Constant Speed operation". Seems pretty
clear now.
Thanks.
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be
> removed before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find
> a specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
> constant speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
> removal of the metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
I don't know the method to remove it either. Drill a hole and pry seems
crude. Looks like it has some sealant on it.
Thanks.
jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the
> prop via the center of the crank shaft.
>
> I don't the methods used to remove it.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2 Hours!)
>
>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
> before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
> specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
> speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
> metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
Another comment,
I have a used engine from a Piper
Aztec. The prop on the Aztec goes to full feather on low oil
pressure (Course Pitch / Low RPM). The Hartzel prop used on our
application goes to fine pitch / high RPM on low oil pressure. With
the Aztec governor, we were able to cycle the prop at low RPM on the
ground during run-up, but not in flight. Changing the governor for
the MT unit from Vans solved the problem.
Jim Combs
40192 - N312F - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Phase I Log book wording? |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
Excellent!
Thanks, Jim C
------------------------------------
They should be in
your operating limitations.
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
Albert,
Great idea!
How about some solar panels to recharge, then you could apply for a tax
credit as a eco friendly renewable energy vehical.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Liability Insurance |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
Builders insurance can be had for 1% of hull value per year. This includes
liability as well as hull; just don't start the engine until you have flight
insurance.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Financing/Insurance
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components during
build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but think I will
want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be stored in my locked
hangar, none at home.
On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 7:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
wrote:
> I just went through this 3 months ago. Well I went with NAFCO
> directly and was very pleased for the most part.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Yes remove it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
-->
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the metal
cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
I believe we used slotted screwdriver to punch a hole and it came out
easily.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the prop via
the center of the crank shaft.
I don't the methods used to remove it.
Jim C
N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2 Hours!)
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
There is a new file on line form. See asrs.arc.nasa.gov/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
If I remember right ...... Along with removing the front plug, you
must also put in the aft plug. In the fixed-pitch mode, oil flows past
the nose bearing into the hollow crank and back out through a hole next
to the #1 crank throw. With the constant speed, you need to pressurize
that hollow part of the crank .... hence the aft plug. Since I've never
played with an IO-540 before I may just be blowing smoke, but .......
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> Aahhh, nevermind. I've re-read SI-1435 a third time and see that I
> must "Remove expansion plug for Constant Speed operation". Seems
> pretty clear now.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be
>> removed before installation of the constant speed prop?
>>
>> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't
>> find a specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in
>> the documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
>> constant speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
>> removal of the metal cup.
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements. I
dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
>
> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
> Thanks guys.
>
> Don McDonald
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Funny you mention this I just finished putting the prop on to do cowling
/spinner fitting and went through the same questions last night. My Van's
IO-540 came with a sheet of warnings one of which was to remove the plug,
but no method. I found in archives where someone used a dent puller, I'll
probably punch a hole and then use the dent puller if its stubborn.
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
> before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
> specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
> speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
> metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wiring hole in the spar? |
In the plans where the stall warning is addressed, they refer to a snap
bushing hole through the main spar for routing the wring to the aft portion
of the wing and to the fuselage. Anyone know how big the hole is? I may have
other uses for the hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow
(S&W). My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60%
Imron. Even the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors.
Short of resorting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested
Tim's Base White per gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing
Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
Hi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lacks any holes at all (no s
ide frame or door lock holes at all - just a blank sheet).- Could someone
please check their kit if you haven't already completed Section 34 (or if
you can remember) to see if there are supposed to be pre-drilled holes to m
atch drill all the other door parts to.=0A=0AMany thanks in antcipation.=0A
=0ARegards=0A=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299--- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South
Australia=0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most with
a smarter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Ugg - what an ugly job. My 2 cents worth. First read the instructions like it
says in vans instruction kit. The diagrams suck, so you have to read them and
look at them several times. Also read Tim Olsen's excellent post on this item
- it has a lot of good info. You kind of have to work on all of the parts together
but start on the nose extension early. The whole process requires that you
put on and take off the cowl about 50 times.
1. I think that the reason that Tim had trouble on the alignment is that the box
is twisted as it comes from Vans - it is not straight.
2. I fitted my upper aluminum part of the box to the nose to get the length right
and the alignment. It seemed to work out well. Not so great on the length,
but great on the alignment. I cut off too much of the nose extension and had to
glue it back on.
3. Do not overlook DLM's post on reinforcing the alt air system. Do not want to
suck anything into your nice engine. Essentially, he says to put a reinforcement
ring INSIDE the FAB to reinforce the flimsy fiberglass so that your rivets
do not get sucked into the engine. His glass box failed at the rivets at 100
hrs. Thanks for the heads up Dave
4. Finally, spend a bit of time getting the cut out right for the mixture lever.
It is a bit difficult to get the cut out just right on the pilot side of the
box, and you do not want to have to redo it.
5. Be mindful of the orientation of everything especially the recessed aluminum
top to the FAB and the dimple direction
Any other hint on this ugly job will help all
Good luck on an ugly job. If you need pics or anything leave me a message
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232536#232536
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
Mike, I wasn't sure which thing you were talking about that
I wrote...is this the page?
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051127/index.html
It's been so long that I don't remember as much about it
as I should, other than that glassing the nozzle on the cowl
was a pain in the butt, building the FAB was a pain in the
butt, and the directions kind of stunk. :) It really wasn't
THAT bad, but by the time you're at this step, building
and fiberglass is starting to get old. I have yet to put
the reinforcement ring inside mine, but thanks for bringing
it up again...I need to remember to do that next time the
cowl is off.
There are definitely more fun parts of the plane to build.
I was just thrilled that being an IO-540, I didn't need
to install carb heat.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
AirMike wrote:
>
> Ugg - what an ugly job. My 2 cents worth. First read the
> instructions like it says in vans instruction kit. The diagrams suck,
> so you have to read them and look at them several times. Also read
> Tim Olsen's excellent post on this item - it has a lot of good info.
> You kind of have to work on all of the parts together but start on
> the nose extension early. The whole process requires that you put on
> and take off the cowl about 50 times.
>
> 1. I think that the reason that Tim had trouble on the alignment is
> that the box is twisted as it comes from Vans - it is not straight.
>
> 2. I fitted my upper aluminum part of the box to the nose to get the
> length right and the alignment. It seemed to work out well. Not so
> great on the length, but great on the alignment. I cut off too much
> of the nose extension and had to glue it back on.
>
> 3. Do not overlook DLM's post on reinforcing the alt air system. Do
> not want to suck anything into your nice engine. Essentially, he says
> to put a reinforcement ring INSIDE the FAB to reinforce the flimsy
> fiberglass so that your rivets do not get sucked into the engine. His
> glass box failed at the rivets at 100 hrs. Thanks for the heads up
> Dave
>
> 4. Finally, spend a bit of time getting the cut out right for the
> mixture lever. It is a bit difficult to get the cut out just right on
> the pilot side of the box, and you do not want to have to redo it.
>
> 5. Be mindful of the orientation of everything especially the
> recessed aluminum top to the FAB and the dimple direction
>
> Any other hint on this ugly job will help all
>
> Good luck on an ugly job. If you need pics or anything leave me a
> message
>
> -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit -
> wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232536#232536
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
If you are talking about the piece in the side? That gets cut out
and ends up being a piece of scrap sheet aluminum for whatever use you see
fit. There should be another piece of sheet aluminum already cut and
pre-drilled.
Jim C
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lacks any holes at all
(no
side frame or door lock holes at all - just a blank sheet).
Could someone
please check their kit if you haven't already completed
Section 34 (or if
you can remember) to see if there are supposed to
be pre-drilled holes to
match drill all the other door parts to.
Many thanks in antcipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
#40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South
Australia
Stay connected to the people that matter
most with a smarter inbox.
Take a look
http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
How about building a batch to sell, kits, plans?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
Thanks Jim.=0A=0ADo No Archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________________
__=0AFrom: "jim(at)CombsFive.Com" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronic
s.com=0ASent: Sunday, 1 March, 2009 12:49:10 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: F
-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled=0A=0AIf you are talking about the
piece in the side?- That gets cut out and ends up being a piece of scrap
sheet aluminum for whatever use you see fit.- There should be another pie
ce of sheet aluminum already cut and pre-drilled.=0A=0AJim C=0A=0A---------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------=0AHi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lack
s any holes at all (no=0Aside frame or door lock holes at all - just a blan
k sheet).- Could someone=0Aplease check their kit if you haven't already
completed Section 34 (or if=0Ayou can remember) to see if there are suppose
d to be pre-drilled holes to=0Amatch drill all the other door parts to.=0A
=0AMany thanks in antcipation.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299
--- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0AStay connected to the
people that matter most with a smarter inbox.=0ATake a look http://au.docs.
==0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smar
ter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | wiring hole in the spar? |
It's a 3/8" hole and uses a SB375-3 snap bushing. It's discussed on page 13
-3.
Vern Smith (324 finishing=3B engine baffles)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: wiring hole in the spar?
Date: Sat=2C 28 Feb 2009 15:44:37 -0700
In the plans where
the stall warning is addressed=2C they refer to a snap bushing hole through
the
main spar for routing the wring to the aft portion of the wing and to the
fuselage. Anyone know how big the hole is? I may have other uses for the
hole.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_03200
9
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
dlm46007(at)cox.net
Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized ring
(VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of the air
box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for the door pivot
was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum ring for the inside
and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I cleaned the bottom with
a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional layers of glass on the
bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the fabricated ring to the box and rivet
(1097s) after cure. I will then add small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails
on the inside to ensure that even if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the
injection system.
[quote][b]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232560#232560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Oppps - Is that why my prop doesn't cycle ???????????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232561#232561
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Does OSHA permit unenclosed batteries ???
Where is the air bag, warning labels, and the passive emergency cut off ?
Does it have NHTSA approval for Off-road use ?
Childproof safety lock
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232562#232562
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I was also told that propagation can be poor on the center post. I was advised
by Aerotronics that a conventional antenna is the best bet. I picked up a cheap
used Cessna antenna at OSH for $30. Experimenting with the NAV antenna from
Vans in the area just inside the windscreen. It runs across the front under the
upholstery. I ran the coax up thru the center post. I was also told that VOR
reception might be poor, but want to give it a try anyway. Some have had good
luck with the Bob Archer stuff
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232563#232563
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
Now being close to finished (just have to paint) I am cleaning up the
garage. I have two items that I have never used. Avery's Hand Riveting
Dimpling Tool kit and an Ameriking AK-450 ELT. Both are brand new "in
the box". Will accept any reasonable offer (plus shipping). Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Also related... I had to remove a prop flange bushing to drill holes in the case
for LSE crank sensor plate mount as my engine didn't have any bracket holes.
It sounds pretty scary, but wasn't actually too bad.
When I went to install the prop, it was discovered that several bushings were caked
with junk and needed to be rethreaded as they started coming out when the
bolts were tightened. I called Lycoming and they said it was okay to rethread
it needed.
I came across Lycoming Prop Flange Bushing Location doc SI1098G (attached) which
explains proper location and type of bushing required for different flanges.
Regards,
Jay
Cowl hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232575#232575
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/lycoming_prop_flange_bushing_location_si1098g_571.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
I plan on installing a simple dipole VOR antenna in the inside groove of the
cabin top, feed via coax running up the inside of the center post. The
antenna elements will be #18 wire (or whatever fits the groove the best).
The approximate length of the antenna follows the standard formula: Length
(ft) = 468/frequency (in MHz). So for VOR reception, the frequency range is
108.1 through 117.95 MHz. Using 110 MHz, antenna length (both sides total)
= 4.25 ft, or 51 inches, or 25.5 inches on each side of the center feed
point at the center post.
Some considerations:
1. Dipoles have the max current, min voltage point at the center. This
means the interaction of the center post is minimal. I do not expect any
noticeable performance degrade over something like a VOR antenna mounted on
top of the vertical stabilizer.
2. As the antenna elements will follow the contour of the cabin top, the
antenna is more like and inverted 'V', thus the typical nulls you would have
off the ends of a dipole are reduced (in this case 090 and 270 relative to
the fuselage axis).
3. I'll start with 27" or so of wire on each side of the center feed point,
trimming the ends after installation using an antenna tester to find the
best resonance point over the full frequency range.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (still on fuselage)
KV4U
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace
I was also told that propagation can be poor on the center post. I was
advised by Aerotronics that a conventional antenna is the best bet. I picked
up a cheap used Cessna antenna at OSH for $30. Experimenting with the NAV
antenna from Vans in the area just inside the windscreen. It runs across the
front under the upholstery. I ran the coax up thru the center post. I was
also told that VOR reception might be poor, but want to give it a try
anyway. Some have had good luck with the Bob Archer stuff
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232563#232563
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Check the archives, I posted info, and I think even the article, on it a year or
so back. If you have a Kitplanes subscription you can go back and download
it for free.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard sipp
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
How about building a batch to sell, kits, plans?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Your point on local supply
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Michael, your point is a good one on local supply houses. S&W here near Au
rora sells both Jet Glow and House of Color to the DIY. They offer classes
which can empower many DIY guys to lay a great coat. They share techniques
, shortcuts and gotchas. They even have classes on flame and other airbrus
h techniques.
Don't under-estimate the value of a quality gun with an adequate flow rate.
Our EAA chapter even has the correct breathing euipment available.
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Good points John. EAA 292 in Independence also has a Hobbyair breathing
system with extra hoses and Graco Turbine available for members. We just
don't have a place to paint. Besides Jet Glow and PPG, many of us here have
used Glasurit products. Expensive, but fantastic finishes. We've been
purchasing them from Industrial Finishes, who has stores all over the
Northwest.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Michael, your point is a good one on local supply houses. S&W here near
Aurora sells both Jet Glow and House of Color to the DIY. They offer classes
which can empower many DIY guys to lay a great coat. They share techniques,
shortcuts and gotchas. They even have classes on flame and other airbrush
techniques.
Don't under-estimate the value of a quality gun with an adequate flow rate.
Our EAA chapter even has the correct breathing euipment available.
John Cox
_____
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Fingers
crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local supply
house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier to
many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice
from their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply
houses in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Even
the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of
resorting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White
per gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com/
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
No one seems to enjoy making the air inlet nozzle on the lower cowl. I used a different
method that was easier and resulted in a very smooth transition to the
air box.
Instead of carving a hole in the foam with a hacksaw and trying to create a smooth
contour, I reversed the process. I cut a piece of foam thick enough to fill
the gap from the back of the existing cowl inlet to the front of the air box.
Reach through the cowl inlet and press the foam into the air box, so that the
air box leaves an indentation in the aft side of the foam. While holding the
foam in this position, hot glue the forward side of the foam to the cowl inlet.
Remove the cowl, being careful not to knock the foam loose. It is now very
easy to shape the foam to the indentation on the aft side of the foam and the
existing cowl inlet on the fore side. Lay up the fiberglass on the outside of
the foam plug and you will have a perfect contour from the cowl to the air box.
No messing around with trying to lay glass inside a female form. No messing
with balloons. When the glass is cured carve out the foam, and you will have an
interior surface that needs very little cleaning up.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232605#232605
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Industrial Finishes is my point of purchase as well dating back to 1968.
For decades I was a Dupont guy. They sell lots of volume of PPG with
tremendous results from the field. I side with Michael that the House
of Kolor is amazing as is Randolph's Spectrum line. Glasurit is my
choice on German autos. Many big iron shops swear by JetGlow. Don't
forget Scott's beautiful product. The big thing is don't mix
competitive chemistry or the wrong primer with your final topcoat. Know
where you are going chemistry wise.
Sounds like what we all need is a clandestine or a approved shop on an
airfield where the hobbyist can expand their skills under tutelage.
Deems went with a national race car painter that was across from the
Phoenix Raceway.
My favorite painter said "never again" to allow another craftsman to
adulterate his effort after trying to please a discriminate customer.
That means I might be looking elsewhere as well. Lighting, ventilation
and quality airline control impact the finish topcoat paint. Dust,
hair, runs and environmental factors work against many hobbyists. It is
not a point to wander from. Michael should be commended for reminding
us of the tremendous dollar savings by DIY just like from Randy and Tim
(years ago).
All of you should be looking to a Hobbyair source as you continue the
journey.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Good points John. EAA 292 in Independence also has a Hobbyair breathing
system with extra hoses and Graco Turbine available for members. We
just don't have a place to paint... Besides Jet Glow and PPG, many of
us here have used Glasurit products. Expensive, but fantastic finishes.
We've been purchasing them from Industrial Finishes, who has stores all
over the Northwest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered Air Box Failure |
While we're on the subject, two weeks ago after about 300 hours, our FAB was
found failed.
The filter had rubbed its way all the through the fiberglass on the bottom
edge. There was a split in the glass along the outside edge of the filter
in an arc of about 120 degrees.
I think the fact that the filter is slighly compressed when the airbox is
bolted closed gave it some preload against the glass, combined with enough
vibration to wear through.
We cleaned up the FAB and patched the crack, allowing the filter a tiny bit
more room inside the box so that maybe with less pressure against the glass,
it won't work against the inside as hard. But, too little pressure and it
won't seal. It's a fine line. I'll defineatly be watching it. From the
inside, you should be able to catch this happening long before it wears
through. I don't think I ever bothered to look closely.
Remember that any repairs on the FAB should be done with vinyl ester as it
is fuel proof. Epoxy may or may not be, and fuel does tend to end up in the
FAB from time to time.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC 335 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
for-in motion and not-in-motion. Also would you know what the cost
would be for hull replacement for not-in-motion? My thoughts are that I
need liability coverage for all possibilities but only need hull
coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while sitting on a
ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any mild to moderate damage
while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be able to care
if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements.
I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra
anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/27/09 13:27:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long time. The
AA-1B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now, which made
the change to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
> for-in motion
AA-1B was 250
> and not-in-motion.
115
> Also would you know what the cost would be for hull replacement for
> not-in-motion?
I don't. I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a loss is a
loss. I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the Pitts the
first year. I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
> My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all possibilities
> but only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something
> while sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any
> mild to moderate damage while in motion I can probably fix, and I
> probably won't be able to care if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay
> Rowe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* linn
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
>
> I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
> requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for
> many years.
> Linn
>
> partner14 wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
>> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --------
>> Don A. McDonald
>> 40636
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"2. As the antenna elements will follow the contour of the cabin top, the
antenna is more like and inverted 'V', thus the typical nulls you would have
off the ends of a dipole are reduced (in this case 090 and 270 relative to
the fuselage axis). "
I think your logic is off a little here. The 'end on' sensitivity of such an antenna
is only to vertical polarization. VOR and Localizer signals are horizontally
polarized. Expect trouble when the station is off to the side.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232654#232654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Ok, I'll bite,- what the hell is AA-1B.- Do most companies sell insuran
ce for liability only?- Recommendations?
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, linn wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 3:30 PM
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long time.- The AA-1
B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now, which made the cha
nge to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
Linn:- Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both for
-in motionAA-1B was 250
and not-in-motion.115
- Also would you know what the cost would be for hull-replacement for n
ot-in-motion?I don't.- I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a
loss is a loss.- I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the
Pitts the first year.- I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
- My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all possibilities bu
t only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while
sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses.- Any mild to mode
rate damage while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be abl
e to care if there is major damage.- Thanks,- Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements.- I
dropped it from in-motion this year.- No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
- Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
jayb wrote:
> Also related... I had to remove a prop flange bushing to drill holes in the case
for LSE crank sensor plate mount as my engine didn't have any bracket holes.
It sounds pretty scary, but wasn't actually too bad.
I got a couple 1.5" bolts and center drilled 2 of them I used them as a centering
guide for the tap drill. Once drilled, remove the bold and tap the hole with
a bottoming tap. I was able to get 5 holes using this method. Have not started
the engine yet but I believe I got a really good fit without having to
remove any bushings.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232665#232665
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Don McDonald wrote:
> Ok, I'll bite, what the hell is AA-1B. Do most companies sell
> insurance for liability only? Recommendations?
>
My '74 AA-1B is a Grumman American .... low wing, sliding canopy with
sports-car maneuverability. Most fun airplane I've ever flown ..... for
it's category. My Pitts is still #1 for my aerobatic fix.
I believe almost all underwriters carry liability only. My agent is
Aircraft & Marine Insurance 800 466-4944. They've been really good to
me over the years.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <n520tx(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
An AA-1B is a 2 seat certificated aircraft made by Grumman (American
Aviation). Basically a 2 seat Tiger/Cheetah.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
Ok, I'll bite, what the hell is AA-1B. Do most companies sell
insurance for liability only? Recommendations?
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, linn wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 3:30 PM
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long
time. The AA-1B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now,
which made the change to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance
costs both for-in motion
AA-1B was 250
and not-in-motion.
115
Also would you know what the cost would be for hull
replacement for not-in-motion?
I don't. I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a
loss is a loss. I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the
Pitts the first year. I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all
possibilities but only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone
or something while sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or
collapses. Any mild to moderate damage while in motion I can probably
fix, and I probably won't be able to care if there is major damage.
Thanks, Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many
years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra
anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
----------------------------------------------------------------
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ontribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
We don't recommend mounting the CU on the firewall. There are several options to
mount it around the intermediate bulkhead bw the firewall and the panel.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232678#232678
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
Hi
After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours in
today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
fibreglass console?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - lots of assembly required
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
Les,
You will want to stay with flush scews there. It's a tight fit as-is and
protruding screws will just make it worse.
If the glass is thick enough you can countersink it. Metal countersink
cutters get dull really fast on fiberglass, but these work great:
http://www.averytools.com/c-104-permagrit-countersinks.aspx
If the material is too thin to countersink without enlarging the hole, then
countersunk washers will help. Countersink far enough that the head of the
screw is flush, then use the washer to essentially enlarge the head of the
screw. That'll help spread out the load and keep the fiberglass in good
shape for a long time.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Countersinking Fiberglass
Hi
After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours in
today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
fibreglass console?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - lots of assembly required
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
Link: http://www.kitplanes.com/issues/pdfs/0405-5354.pdf
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
>
>
> Check the archives, I posted info, and I think even the article, on it a
> year or so back. If you have a Kitplanes subscription you can go back and
> download it for free.
>
> Michael
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
>
>
> I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
> didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
> $9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
> but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
> problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small
> so
> I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
> up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
> got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Speaking of breathing systems, another one that I have read good things a
bout is the PureAir system. It has the advantage of single airline to supp
ly breathing and the spray gun. The only real caveat with this is that you
need to know where your compressor air supply is coming from. My compress
or is located in a storage closet in the back of my bathroom with a CO dete
ctor nearby so I am comfortable that my air is not contaminated. Same rule
s apply to where you place the turbine in a HobbyAir system. If you go wit
h something like the PureAir and are not comfortable with your air quality,
it is very easy to extend your compressor inlet outside the building by re
moving the filter and piping it outdoors.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=17667&itemType=PRODUCT
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 2:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Industrial Finishes is my point of purchase as well dating back to 1968. F
or decades I was a Dupont guy. They sell lots of volume of PPG with tremen
dous results from the field. I side with Michael that the House of Kolor i
s amazing as is Randolph's Spectrum line. Glasurit is my choice on German
autos. Many big iron shops swear by JetGlow. Don't forget Scott's beautif
ul product. The big thing is don't mix competitive chemistry or the wrong
primer with your final topcoat. Know where you are going chemistry wise.
Sounds like what we all need is a clandestine or a approved shop on an airf
ield where the hobbyist can expand their skills under tutelage. Deems went
with a national race car painter that was across from the Phoenix Raceway.
My favorite painter said "never again" to allow another craftsman to adulte
rate his effort after trying to please a discriminate customer. That means
I might be looking elsewhere as well. Lighting, ventilation and quality a
irline control impact the finish topcoat paint. Dust, hair, runs and envir
onmental factors work against many hobbyists. It is not a point to wander
from. Michael should be commended for reminding us of the tremendous dolla
r savings by DIY just like from Randy and Tim (years ago).
All of you should be looking to a Hobbyair source as you continue the journ
ey.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Good points John. EAA 292 in Independence also has a Hobbyair breathing sy
stem with extra hoses and Graco Turbine available for members. We just don
't have a place to paint... Besides Jet Glow and PPG, many of us here have
used Glasurit products. Expensive, but fantastic finishes. We've been pu
rchasing them from Industrial Finishes, who has stores all over the Northwe
st.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Fiberglass |
Les.
I have the same console. I used round head screws to keep with similar
screws on the panel. "theme" thing I guess. Anyway, I don't think it
would be a problem to hold the front part of the console on with just
countersunk flush screws. However, you need to think about the center
console. As much as I try and help some people into the airplane in the
correct manner, a lot of weight sometimes gets put on the center arm
rest. People with poor mobility sometimes just cant do what is needed
to get in and out of the plane. It puts a lot of stress on that center
arm rest. So counter sinking and putting the counter sunk washers might
be a good idea on the center arm rest. Just depends on the look that
you want along the bottom edge.
Fred Williams
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours in
> today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
> wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
>
> The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
> flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
> screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
> tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
> fibreglass console?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Les Kearney
> #40643 - lots of assembly required
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglas |
Hi Fred
Thanks for the info especially about people putting weight on the console.
Too much weight could cause problems. Not being sure as to the structural
requirements, I have left the tunnel cover in place and put the console over
that. If need be, I could put a small insert between the tunnel cover and
the bottom of the storage compartment so any weight on the console is
transferred to the tunnel cover and not down the side panels to the screws.
I hope that makes sense...
Did you get Tony's panel as well and if so, how did you handle installation
or the radio stack etc?
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: March-02-09 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Countersinking Fiberglass
Les.
I have the same console. I used round head screws to keep with similar
screws on the panel. "theme" thing I guess. Anyway, I don't think it
would be a problem to hold the front part of the console on with just
countersunk flush screws. However, you need to think about the center
console. As much as I try and help some people into the airplane in the
correct manner, a lot of weight sometimes gets put on the center arm
rest. People with poor mobility sometimes just cant do what is needed
to get in and out of the plane. It puts a lot of stress on that center
arm rest. So counter sinking and putting the counter sunk washers might
be a good idea on the center arm rest. Just depends on the look that
you want along the bottom edge.
Fred Williams
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours
in
> today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
> wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
>
> The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
> flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
> screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
> tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
> fibreglass console?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Les Kearney
> #40643 - lots of assembly required
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
I have spent the last few hours and days working on the wheel pants for the
main gear.
I laser with a level on it is in my opinion a must. Even with all that hard
ware to aid the builder=2C the job of these pants is a real pain in the ars
s.
I am quite surprised as usual that the parts don't have pre marked pionts w
hich indicate their centerline at the ends=2C front and back. The front hal
f didn't fit well with the rear half and the 90 joggle was not in a straigh
t circumference. Contour was not true at the intersection either.
What I am asking is whether most people that have done this section found t
hat the outside hex extendion intersection with the faring is actually at t
he intersection between the front and the rear pieces of the fairing as is
indicated by the manual. With my faring all line up with the laser=2C my ex
tension's center point is about 3/8" aft of the front/rear seem. As long as
everything seems to fit and is lined up with the aircraft centerline and l
evel with the plane=2C does any one see a reason why I can't locate the att
achment there. By putting it there would mean that the front half of the fa
ring wouldn't have a 1/2 inch=2C half whole on its rear edge.
What have others found?
John G. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
My screw hole is aft of the intersection with the front edge of the whole
right on the intersection. I can take the front of the fairing off without
removing the screw.
Hope that helps.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wheel pants.
I have spent the last few hours and days working on the wheel pants for the
main gear.
I laser with a level on it is in my opinion a must. Even with all that
hardware to aid the builder, the job of these pants is a real pain in the
arss.
I am quite surprised as usual that the parts don't have pre marked pionts
which indicate their centerline at the ends, front and back. The front half
didn't fit well with the rear half and the 90 joggle was not in a straight
circumference. Contour was not true at the intersection either.
What I am asking is whether most people that have done this section found
that the outside hex extendion intersection with the faring is actually at
the intersection between the front and the rear pieces of the fairing as is
indicated by the manual. With my faring all line up with the laser, my
extension's center point is about 3/8" aft of the front/rear seem. As long
as everything seems to fit and is lined up with the aircraft centerline and
level with the plane, does any one see a reason why I can't locate the
attachment there. By putting it there would mean that the front half of the
faring wouldn't have a 1/2 inch, half whole on its rear edge.
What have others found?
John G. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | James Aircraft wheel pants |
Anyone have experience with the RV-10 James Aircraft wheel pants?
Pros/cons?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: James Aircraft wheel pants |
I have a set of these that I will be using on my 6A - I have put 380x15x5 tires
on my 5x5 rims to offset the fact that I have put a 5x5 wheel on the nose...I
operate primarily from a grass strip.
I have already put a SJ RV6 style main pant on the nose and like the way it came
out (so far),
I'm interested to read what others have to say also.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
>Sent: Mar 2, 2009 11:32 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: James Aircraft wheel pants
>
>Anyone have experience with the RV-10 James Aircraft wheel pants?
>Pros/cons?
>
>
>
>Carl Froehlich
>
>RV-8A (450 hrs)
>
>RV-10 (fuselage)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Fiberglass |
Fred,
How well does your overhead vent set-up work?
Paul Grimstad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Countersinking Fiberglass
>
>
> Les.
> I have the same console. I used round head screws to keep with similar
> screws on the panel. "theme" thing I guess. Anyway, I don't think it
> would be a problem to hold the front part of the console on with just
> countersunk flush screws. However, you need to think about the center
> console. As much as I try and help some people into the airplane in the
> correct manner, a lot of weight sometimes gets put on the center arm rest.
> People with poor mobility sometimes just cant do what is needed to get in
> and out of the plane. It puts a lot of stress on that center arm rest.
> So counter sinking and putting the counter sunk washers might be a good
> idea on the center arm rest. Just depends on the look that you want
> along the bottom edge.
>
>
> Fred Williams
>
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours
>> in
>> today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
>> wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
>>
>> The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
>> flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
>> screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the
>> fibreglass
>> tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
>> fibreglass console?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know...
>>
>> Les Kearney
>> #40643 - lots of assembly required
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Kick the Tires & Light the fire! |
A bit of a milestone (for me) today. N519PJ drew her 1st breath!!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its put together, time to call the DAR'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Kick the Tires & Light the fire! |
Congrats Deems!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 6:01 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Kick the Tires & Light the fire!
>
>
>A bit of a milestone (for me) today. N519PJ drew her 1st breath!!
>
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>'Its put together, time to call the DAR'
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
do nor archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kick the Tires & Light the fire! |
Fantastic Deems! Your gorgeous machine is alive! Congratulations.
David Maib
40559
February 19, 2009 - March 02, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eh