RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ej
March 10, 2009 - March 30, 2009
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Top COMM antenna |
so you disconnect each time the cowl is removed?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James McGrew
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Top COMM antenna
Michael,
I glassed a VHF comm antenna into the cowling. It is oriented vertically and
works great. More details and pictures from my previous post are located
here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=6664
-Jim
N312JE
On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 5:02 AM, Michael Wellenzohn
wrote:
Hi guys,
I want to mount a com antenna on top.
The tape comm antenna I understand is not an option for the -10.
Now COMMANT has a veriation of models:
Which one can you suggest?
http://www.comant.com/showproduct.aspx?CN=44
<http://www.comant.com/showproduct.aspx?CN=44&SCN=59> &SCN=59
Looking forward for your thoughts.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234006#234006
t Un/Subscription,
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Top COMM antenna |
| From: | James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
I said cowling... I meant cabin top. It is not removed quite as often as the
cowling.
-Jim
N312JE
On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:58 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> so you disconnect each time the cowl is removed?
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *James McGrew
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2009 3:54 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Top COMM antenna
>
> Michael,
>
> I glassed a VHF comm antenna into the cowling. It is oriented vertically
> and works great. More details and pictures from my previous post are located
> here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=6664
>
> -Jim
> N312JE
>
> On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 5:02 AM, Michael Wellenzohn > wrote:
>
>> rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> I want to mount a com antenna on top.
>> The tape comm antenna I understand is not an option for the -10.
>>
>> Now COMMANT has a veriation of models:
>> Which one can you suggest?
>>
>> http://www.comant.com/showproduct.aspx?CN=44&SCN=59
>>
>> Looking forward for your thoughts.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Michael
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234006#234006
>> t Un/Subscription,
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ====
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> |
| Subject: | 24 Volt Electrical System |
Are there any RV-10s that are running on a 24 volt electrical system?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Real airplanes fly 24 volts |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
We've got a 24 volt system, like all REAL airplanes! : )
Or like people who are pushed that way by their avionics.
But it does make for fun poking around to try and find the appropriate
24 volt contactors, etc. . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Real airplanes fly 24 volts |
Ah yes, *those* real aircraft that require real aircraft parts at unreal
pricing with unreal supply chains. 8-)
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> We've got a 24 volt system, like all REAL airplanes! : )
>
>
>
> Or like people who are pushed that way by their avionics.
>
>
>
> But it does make for fun poking around to try and find the appropriate
> 24 volt contactors, etc. . . .
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt Electrical System |
I will be running dual Oddessy batteries for both=C2-12 and 24 volts in m
y 10.=C2- Same thing I did on the Cozy MKIV.=C2- I want 24V cranking th
e engine and=C2-then have the flexibility to mix 12/24 volt as needed.=C2
- With the batteries wired=C2-together, I tapped the buss bar that conn
ects them for my 12V supply.=C2- Some state that one of the batteries wil
l drain first and the other will become a donner battery, killing the batte
ry in short order.=C2- Has not happened yet in the Cozy.=C2- There is a
battery equalizer that will solve the problem but it costs about $275 that
will prevent this. .=C2- One guy just flip-flops his batteries at every
oil change and states he never has had any problems.=C2- I made a very sl
ight modification to the Van's battery tray in the kit and dual Oddessy's f
it perfectly.=C2- I also added a second master solenoid.=C2- One for 12
volts and the other for 24.=C2- My engine is currently set up for 12 vol
ts (its out of a Maule) so I will need to swap out the starter and alternat
or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 1:37:47 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: 24 Volt Electrical System
mo.com>
Are there any RV-10s that are running on a 24 volt electrical system?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 24 Volt Electrical System |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remembrance of Mark Ritter |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Today is the One year anniversary of Mark Ritter's "Gone West" flight.
Mark was a valued contributor on this list and we shared several
memorable discussions "offline" over the months and years. Attached is
a picture of Mark's Scheme Designer paint job. Each loss to our group
is a painful one, but I reflect on the valued lesson Mark left behind
for me. Friends share observations with friends.
As a retired Pilot Examiner, I without fail would include an Oral
question for both Private and Commercial applicants from FAR 61.53 and
often would query the use of "Over the Counter" medications. Years
later the FAA expanded our responsibility to include a Task from the
Area of Operations in the PTS, of Preflight Preparation. I would always
delve into Aeromedical Factors. Applicants knew they would be getting
questions on the recognition and remediation on hypoxia and
hyperventilation. Sometimes a distracter to induce potential vertigo
would be included. Today, in the Air Carrier Maintenance arena - Human
Factors are the big FAA push. Fatigue/Distractions/Complacency/the list
goes on to make up the Dirty Dozen.
Mark was not my first friend to be lost to potential medical issues.
Another pilot Bob McCann "Went West" making a similar solo flight in
connection to that simple "Pilot's Pancake Breakfast" just an hour away.
The Search and Rescue effort brought scores of pilots into the mix with
the CAP (and a topic I won't go into here). We each benefit by our
candid discussion with friends when we observe something out of the
ordinary then do something more than silent observation. We each carry
the financial cost of increased insurance rates after their passing.
Let's all hope that Mark's passing is the beginning of a long and
extended period of Safe Flights in the RV-10 that are devoid of medical
issues.
I remember an incident in A&P school where another friend, Alan Johnson
(retired AF crew chief) seemed just a bit unusually stresses over our
Bendix Pressure Carb Fuel Metering Class. I let Alan know repeatedly
that he just did not look his Rosey self. Green and Grey with
perspiration were not typical school colors. Alan reluctantly visited a
doctor after class that day. Seems his smoking, drinking and sedentary
lifestyle required an immediate quadruple bypass. Although Alan left
that class and the program, the years have passed gently. Today Alan can
be found on the ramp of airports in Arizona with his Canon capturing the
aircraft he loves.
Let's spend a minute, think of Mark and others who have passed and
reflect on the value of sharing our observations.
I don't have an answer for you on those who pilots who cognitively fly
into bad weather or disregard clear and concise information to the
contrary in attempting flight with known aircraft problems. May 2009...
and Beyond continue the pattern... and that Mark be our last loss. I
know we're are all one day closer. <>
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Here are the shots I promised. One is a range of cheapo tools, another
is a modified Canon Plug pliers, another is the use of the ole busted
hacksaw blade. They should be self explanatory. They are designed to
work in Tight spaces to which the really cool $86 pair will not fit.
The blade is grooved with a 3" Harbor Freight cutoff wheel to accept 6,8
or 10-32 Adel Screws and MS attachment nuts. Your fingertips will love
you.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2009 2:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
No. However a simple piece of hacksaw blade and your pencil grinder can
make an Adel lock tool which is easy to install, easy to remove and just
plain slick. Discarded Medical Forceps work on the cheap.
If you are doing triple stacked or quad stacked Adels for a living then
maybe the tool will prove itself.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of johngoodman
Sent: Fri 3/6/2009 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
Has anybody tried out these Adel Clamp Pliers from Wicks? If so, are
they worth the money?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233494#233494
http://www.matronic
-
-> http://forums.matronics.com
p; - List Contribution bsp; -Matt Dralle,
List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
===============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aviation Consumer |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is a quote from an Aviation Consumer article reprinted at Avweb:
As far as we're concerned, the data that indicates that correctly executed lean-of-peak
operation both saves fuel and lowers EGTs and CHTs IS INARGUABLE, and
people who claim otherwise don't know what they're talking about. We can't make
it any plainer than this.
http://www.avweb.com/news/airman/are_you_wasting_avgas_196816-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234234#234234
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt Electrical System |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
David,
I assume you are using two PC680s?
davidsoutpost(at)comcast. wrote:
> I will be running dual Oddessy batteries for both 12 and 24 volts in my 10. Same
thing I did on the Cozy MKIV. I want 24V cranking the engine and then have
the flexibility to mix 12/24 volt as needed. With the batteries wired together,
I tapped the buss bar that connects them for my 12V supply. Some state that
one of the batteries will drain first and the other will become a donner battery,
killing the battery in short order. Has not happened yet in the Cozy.
There is a battery equalizer that will solve the problem but it costs about
$275 that will prevent this. . One guy just flip-flops his batteries at every
oil change and states he never has had any problems. I made a very slight modification
to the Van's battery tray in the kit and dual Oddessy's fit perfectly.
I also added a second master solenoid. One for 12 volts and the other for
24. My engine is currently set up for 12 volts (its out of a Maule) so I will
need to swap out the starter and alternator.
>
> ---
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234237#234237
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I actually bought a set of Adel Pliers at OSH a couple years ago and
after a couple times using them I went back to the fly market/Harbor
Freight hemostats and needle nose vise grips as shown in John's pix.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
Here are the shots I promised. One is a range of cheapo tools, another
is a modified Canon Plug pliers, another is the use of the ole busted
hacksaw blade. They should be self explanatory. They are designed to
work in Tight spaces to which the really cool $86 pair will not fit.
The blade is grooved with a 3" Harbor Freight cutoff wheel to accept 6,8
or 10-32 Adel Screws and MS attachment nuts. Your fingertips will love
you.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2009 2:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
No. However a simple piece of hacksaw blade and your pencil grinder can
make an Adel lock tool which is easy to install, easy to remove and just
plain slick. Discarded Medical Forceps work on the cheap.
If you are doing triple stacked or quad stacked Adels for a living then
maybe the tool will prove itself.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of johngoodman
Sent: Fri 3/6/2009 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
Has anybody tried out these Adel Clamp Pliers from Wicks? If so, are
they worth the money?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233494#233494
http://www.matronic
-
-> http://forums.matronics.com
p; - List Contribution bsp; -Matt Dralle,
List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
===============
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Here are a few more articles:
Why does proper leaning procedure seem to be such a confusing subject for pilots
when it's so darn easy?
http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_59_egt_cht_and_leaning_198162-1.html
Here's an amazing number: Merely by operating engines lean of peak, aircraft owners
are saving themselves more than $30 million a year. That's a big number.
Will Lycoming ever embrace the idea?
http://www.avweb.com/blogs/insider/AVwebInsiderBlog_TheGreatLeaningWar_198048-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234241#234241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt Electrical System |
| From: | Mike Much <mkmuch(at)gmail.com> |
Doesn't the 24V avionics cost more but do the same as 12V?
I do not know?
On 3/11/09, Robin Marks wrote:
> Interesting idea (dual 12/24) I wish I had considered it during my build.
> The G900X can be set up for 12V but the dual 18W COMMs require 24V so
> without knowing of another option I had to buy two Very Heavy and Very
> Expensive up converters. I hated adding that extra weight & bulk to my
> plane. I do however like the power & clarity of the Garmin 18W comms.
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 6:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 24 Volt Electrical System
>
>
> I will be running dual Oddessy batteries for both 12 and 24 volts in my 10.
> Same thing I did on the Cozy MKIV. I want 24V cranking the engine and then
> have the flexibility to mix 12/24 volt as needed. With the batteries wired
> together, I tapped the buss bar that connects them for my 12V supply. Some
> state that one of the batteries will drain first and the other will become a
> donner battery, killing the battery in short order. Has not happened yet in
> the Cozy. There is a battery equalizer that will solve the problem but it
> costs about $275 that will prevent this. . One guy just flip-flops his
> batteries at every oil change and states he never has had any problems. I
> made a very slight modification to the Van's battery tray in the kit and
> dual Oddessy's fit perfectly. I also added a second master solenoid. One
> for 12 volts and the other for 24. My engine is currently set up for 12
> volts (its out of a Maule) so I will need to swap out the starter and
> alternator.
>
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
This was supposed to be in reply in another thread but I started a topic by accident.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234243#234243
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aviation Consumer On LOP |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
This was supposed to be in reply in another thread but I started a topic by accident.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234242#234242
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advance pilot seminar (lean of peak) |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is a quote from an Aviation Consumer article reprinted at Avweb:
As far as we're concerned, the data that indicates that correctly executed lean-of-peak
operation both saves fuel and lowers EGTs and CHTs IS INARGUABLE, and
people who claim otherwise don't know what they're talking about. We can't make
it any plainer than this.
http://www.avweb.com/news/airman/are_you_wasting_avgas_196816-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234246#234246
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advance pilot seminar (lean of peak) |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Here are a few more articles:
Why does proper leaning procedure seem to be such a confusing subject for pilots
when it's so darn easy?
http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_59_egt_cht_and_leaning_198162-1.html
Here's an amazing number: Merely by operating engines lean of peak, aircraft owners
are saving themselves more than $30 million a year. That's a big number.
Will Lycoming ever embrace the idea?
http://www.avweb.com/blogs/insider/AVwebInsiderBlog_TheGreatLeaningWar_198048-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234247#234247
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advance pilot seminar (lean of peak) |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
And here are 3 articles from John Deakin of Advanced Pilot Seminars.
Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 1)
http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/182179-1.html
Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 2 The Climb)
http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/182176-1.html
Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 3 -- Cruise)
http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/182583-1.html
Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 4 -- Descent)
http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/183094-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234249#234249
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advance pilot seminar (lean of peak) |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is a Power Point from APS describing leaning procedures. If you have Power
Point it will open up in it. If not, Google Power Point Viewer and you can find
a file from Microsoft that will let you view it.
And no, I don't work for APS. Just trying to bust the myth that LOP is bad.
http://www.avweb.com/other/Leaning.pps
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234253#234253
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advance pilot seminar (lean of peak) |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
And a related article:
Pelican's Perch #84: Don't Set Mixture with CHT
http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/pelicans_perch_84_mixture_cht_194816-1.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234254#234254
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt Electrical System |
Yes,,,dual 680's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 5:04:36 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 24 Volt Electrical System
David,
I assume you are using two PC680s?
davidsoutpost(at)comcast. wrote:
> I will be running dual Oddessy batteries for both 12 and 24 volts in my 1
0.=C3=AF=C2=C2=BD Same thing I did on the Cozy MKIV. =C2-I want 24V cr
anking the engine and then have the flexibility to mix 12/24 volt as needed
. =C2-With the batteries wired together, I tapped the buss bar that conne
cts them for my 12V supply. =C2-Some state that one of the batteries will
drain first and the other will become a donner battery, killing the batter
y in short order. =C2-Has not happened yet in the Cozy. =C2-There is a
battery equalizer that will solve the problem but it costs about $275 that
will prevent this. . =C2-One guy just flip-flops his batteries at every o
il change and states he never has had any problems. =C2-I made a very sli
ght modification to the Van's battery tray in the kit and dual Oddessy's fi
t perfectly. =C2-I also added a second master solenoid. =C2-One for 12
volts and the other for 24. =C2-My engine is currently set up for 12 volt
s (its out of a Maule) so I will need to swap out the starter and alternato
r.
>
> ---
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234237#234237
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: 24 Volt Electrical System |
I am not sure either but if there is a difference, I think that it would be
small,,,,certainly not enough to change=C2- my plans.=C2-=C2- This w
ill give=C2-me a lot of flexibility in my electrical system.=C2- Worked
great in the Cozy and no messing with=C2-voltage converters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Much" <mkmuch(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 5:13:16 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 24 Volt Electrical System
Doesn't the 24V avionics cost more but do the same as 12V?
I do not know?
On 3/11/09, Robin Marks wrote:
> Interesting idea (dual 12/24) I wish I had considered it during my build.
> The G900X can be set up for 12V but the dual 18W COMM=99s require 2
4V so
> without knowing of another option I had to buy two Very Heavy and Very
> Expensive up converters. I hated adding that extra weight & bulk to my
> plane. I do however like the power & clarity of the Garmin 18W comms.
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 6:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 24 Volt Electrical System
>
>
>
> I will be running dual Oddessy batteries for both 12 and 24 volts in my 1
0.
> Same thing I did on the Cozy MKIV. =C2-I want 24V cranking the engine a
nd then
> have the flexibility to mix 12/24 volt as needed. =C2-With the batterie
s wired
> together, I tapped the buss bar that connects them for my 12V supply. =C2
-Some
> state that one of the batteries will drain first and the other will becom
e a
> donner battery, killing the battery in short order. =C2-Has not happene
d yet in
> the Cozy. =C2-There is a battery equalizer that will solve the problem
but it
> costs about $275 that will prevent this. . =C2-One guy just flip-flops
his
> batteries at every oil change and states he never has had any problems.
=C2-I
> made a very slight modification to the Van's battery tray in the kit and
> dual Oddessy's fit perfectly. =C2-I also added a second master solenoid
. =C2-One
> for 12 volts and the other for 24. =C2-My engine is currently set up fo
r 12
> volts (its out of a Maule) so I will need to swap out the starter and
> alternator.
>
>
>
>
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david b. jones" <d.j.goneflyin(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Remembrance of Mark Ritter |
-----Original Message-----
From: david b. jones [mailto:d.j.goneflyin(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 7:51 PM
Subject: Remembrance of Mark Ritter
Hello my fellow RV-10 owners,
I looked for several years for a paint scheme for my RV-10. I
thought
well maybe I could take a partial design from several
Airplanes that I liked and put something together. Mark Ritter put a
picture
of his RV-10 on the internet one time and I fell
In love with his paint job. I called Mark and complimented him of a
terrific
paint scheme. My first question was would he give
Me permission to copy it. Mark was very gracious and said OK. After
having
mine painted at GLO-Custom in North Dallas, I sent Mark
Several pictures and he enjoyed seeing them . Mark was a class person
and
someone I will remember every time I open my hangar doors.
People like Mark don't come along very often and I appreciated
seeing
him remembered.
Sincerely,
David Jones
N331DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
Bob,
Where we you when I started down this life of building 4 airplanes ago?!
Great pictures, nothing beats a simple/cheap approach. I'll certainly use
these a lot on my next project.
Thanks,
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 5:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
I actually bought a set of Adel Pliers at OSH a couple years ago and after a
couple times using them I went back to the fly market/Harbor Freight
hemostats and needle nose vise grips as shown in John's pix.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
Here are the shots I promised. One is a range of cheapo tools, another is a
modified Canon Plug pliers, another is the use of the ole busted hacksaw
blade. They should be self explanatory. They are designed to work in Tight
spaces to which the really cool $86 pair will not fit. The blade is grooved
with a 3" Harbor Freight cutoff wheel to accept 6,8 or 10-32 Adel Screws and
MS attachment nuts. Your fingertips will love you.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2009 2:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
No. However a simple piece of hacksaw blade and your pencil grinder can
make an Adel lock tool which is easy to install, easy to remove and just
plain slick. Discarded Medical Forceps work on the cheap.
If you are doing triple stacked or quad stacked Adels for a living then
maybe the tool will prove itself.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of johngoodman
Sent: Fri 3/6/2009 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Adel Pliers
Has anybody tried out these Adel Clamp Pliers from Wicks? If so, are they
worth the money?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233494#233494
http://www.matronic-->
http://forums.matronics.com
p; - List Contribution bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
===========
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Top COMM antenna |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Marcus,
based on what I know and what was also mentioned before the com antenna needs to
be as much vertical as possible. So how does your installation on the cabin
ceiling work then?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234318#234318
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top COMM antenna |
Another consideration is the radiation from the antenna. IIRC correctly the
intensity varies inversely with the square of the distance between the pilot
and the source.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 3:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Top COMM antenna
-->
Marcus,
based on what I know and what was also mentioned before the com antenna
needs to be as much vertical as possible. So how does your installation on
the cabin ceiling work then?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234318#234318
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remembrance of Mark Ritter |
John-
Thanks for the great post.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Wed, 3/11/09, John Cox wrote:
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Remembrance of Mark Ritter
Date: Wednesday, March 11, 2009, 10:17 AM
Today is the One year anniversary of Mark Ritter's "Gone West" flight.=C2
- Mark was a valued contributor on this list and we shared several memora
ble discussions "offline" over the months and years.=C2- Attached is a pi
cture of Mark's Scheme Designer paint job.=C2- Each loss to our group is
a painful one, but I reflect on the valued lesson Mark left behind for me.
=C2- Friends share observations with friends.
As a retired Pilot Examiner, I without fail would include an Oral question
for both Private and Commercial applicants from FAR 61.53 and often would q
uery the use of "Over the Counter" medications.=C2- Years later the FAA e
xpanded our responsibility to include a Task from the Area of Operations in
the PTS, of Preflight Preparation.=C2- I would always delve into Aeromed
ical Factors.=C2- Applicants knew they would be getting questions on the
recognition and remediation on hypoxia and hyperventilation.=C2- Sometime
s a distracter to induce potential vertigo would be included. Today, in the
Air Carrier Maintenance arena - Human Factors are the big FAA push.=C2-
Fatigue/Distractions/Complacency/the list goes on to make up the Dirty Doze
n.
Mark was not my first friend to be lost to potential medical issues.=C2-
Another pilot Bob McCann "Went West" making a similar solo flight in connec
tion to that simple "Pilot's Pancake Breakfast" just an hour away.=C2- Th
e Search and Rescue effort brought scores of pilots into the mix with the C
AP (and a topic I won't go into here).=C2- We each benefit by our candid
discussion with friends when we observe something out of the ordinary then
do something more than silent observation.=C2- We each carry the financia
l cost of increased insurance rates after their passing.=C2- Let's all ho
pe that Mark's passing is the beginning of a long and extended period of Sa
fe Flights in the RV-10 that are devoid of medical issues.
I remember an incident in A&P school where another friend, Alan Johnson (re
tired AF crew chief) seemed just a bit unusually stresses over our Bendix P
ressure Carb Fuel Metering Class.=C2- I let Alan know repeatedly that he
just did not look his Rosey self.=C2- Green and Grey with perspiration we
re not typical school colors. Alan reluctantly visited a doctor after class
that day.=C2- Seems his smoking, drinking and sedentary lifestyle requir
ed an immediate quadruple bypass. Although Alan left that class and the pro
gram, the years have passed gently. Today Alan can be found on the ramp of
airports in Arizona with his Canon capturing the aircraft he loves.
Let's spend a minute, think of Mark and others who have passed and reflect
on the value of sharing our observations.
I don't have an answer for you on those who pilots who cognitively fly into
bad weather or disregard clear and concise information to the contrary in
attempting flight with known aircraft problems.=C2- May 2009 and
Beyond continue the pattern and that Mark be our last loss.=C2-
I know we're are all one day closer. <>
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top COMM antenna |
Does anyone have VSWR values for the do it yourself COM antennas? if you ar
e near Prescott stop-bye and I'll measure it for you.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Thu, 3/12/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Top COMM antenna
Date: Thursday, March 12, 2009, 5:41 AM
Another consideration is the radiation from the antenna. IIRC correctly the
intensity varies inversely with the square of the distance between the pilo
t
and the source.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 3:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Top COMM antenna
-->
Marcus,
based on what I know and what was also mentioned before the com antenna
needs to be as much vertical as possible. So how does your installation on
the cabin ceiling work then?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234318#234318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cowl to fuse gap |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
My upper and lower cowl halves have been drilled and the hinges are clecoed in
place.
The upper cowl to fuse gap is right at 1/16" - this seems "too wide". I'm wondering
if the gap might grow over time as the parts break in? It would be lots easier
to add micro now before riveting the hinges.
I left a bit more material on the bottom cowl to allow for final fitting (20-20
hindsight). The horizontal split hinge gaps are about 1/32" as specified in the
plans.
It's odd how Vans is pretty explicit about the horizontal hinge gaps, but not about
the cowl-to-fuse ones.
Thanks,
Jay
#40011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234431#234431
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | cowl to fuse gap |
Remember that you will have paint on both sides of the gap.
John Testement
N311RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cowl to fuse gap
My upper and lower cowl halves have been drilled and the hinges are clecoed
in place.
The upper cowl to fuse gap is right at 1/16" - this seems "too wide". I'm
wondering if the gap might grow over time as the parts break in? It would be
lots easier to add micro now before riveting the hinges.
I left a bit more material on the bottom cowl to allow for final fitting
(20-20 hindsight). The horizontal split hinge gaps are about 1/32" as
specified in the plans.
It's odd how Vans is pretty explicit about the horizontal hinge gaps, but
not about the cowl-to-fuse ones.
Thanks,
Jay
#40011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234431#234431
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05:59:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline AC system for sale |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
The system is sold, thanks for the interest & emails of those who responded.
Dave
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Lake City, MI
based at CAD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234522#234522
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV -10 Partner Wanted Final Assembly NJ |
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I Have added a couple of Photos.
Thanks
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD final assembly
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234550#234550
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/26jan09_frank_finish_fiberglass_008_194.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/30jan09fandj_002_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/26jan09_frank_finish_fiberglass_001_958.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
In today's NY Times. This is one benefit to pay as you build.
Robin
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/14/business/14repo.html?pagewanted=1&th&e
mc=th
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Report on cabin cover and rear window install |
The windows are in and the cabin cover is installed !
Last week I asked some questions about installing the rear windows
before installing the cabin cover. After the research was done I
decided that installing the windows with the cabin cover off the
fuselage was the way I would do it. I also built a custom overhead
console into the canopy to bring fresh air in from overhead along with
some map lighting. My design for the overhead console include no
access cover for the door hinges as well as complete integration of the
center window strut mounting point. So some important questions had to
be answered about this construction technique. Well I am now happy to
say that I can answer them.
1) Yes you can bed the nuts and washers for the door hinges in an
epoxy/structural filler mix so that the hinges can be mounted blindly.
But make sure that you back the screws out shortly after the epoxy cures
to ensure you haven't got any epoxy on the screw threads.
2) Yes you can mount the front window strut to the canopy cover and mold
it into an overhead console before installing the canopy cover
permanently, however you must measure carefully to ensure it is at the
proper angle, otherwise it wont go together.
3) In my opinion, putting the windows in with the cabin cover off the
fuselage is the way to go. I was able to rotate the cover so gravity
did most of the work holding the window in. Additionally, the dripping
of weld-on on the inside went straight to the floor and not all over the
inside of the window.
4) When putting the cabin cover on I used some wood blocks of various
thicknesses sitting of the door sills to progressively low the canopy
into place, this allowed me to finesse the front strut into the fuselage
mounting hole. This worked like a charm. It also allowed me to put
down epoxy/flox mix on the door sill and tank sealant on the rear rivet
line with the canopy just 3/4" about its final resting spot, this made
handling and fitting a non-event.
So here's a link to my web album showing the progress. The last 20 or
so pictures shows the details.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork02?feat=directlink
Bob Newman
#40176
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped |
I started work on the rear wing spars today and noticed that the w-1013a
aileron hinge brackets are warped. With them lying flat on the table
there's 1/16-3/32" gap in the center off the table on all 4 of them.
Has anybody else run into this problem. Looks like it might have
happened when they were "stamped" out. Obviously I'll wait 'til monday
and see what Vans has to say but does anybody else have any thoughts on
this. Surely it's not wise to use them like this, or is it???
Anyhow, pictures are attached.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped |
I would say, treat it as the horizontal tabs that stick up from the
tailcone, beat on them in a vice with a rubber mallet to straighten
them.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 1:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped
I started work on the rear wing spars today and noticed that the
w-1013a aileron hinge brackets are warped. With them lying flat on the
table there's 1/16-3/32" gap in the center off the table on all 4 of
them. Has anybody else run into this problem. Looks like it might have
happened when they were "stamped" out. Obviously I'll wait 'til monday
and see what Vans has to say but does anybody else have any thoughts on
this. Surely it's not wise to use them like this, or is it???
Anyhow, pictures are attached.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped |
I vaguely remember the same issue (I'm kit #40176), I reasonably sure
I "flatened" them back out with a little vise and clamp action.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped
I started work on the rear wing spars today and noticed that the
w-1013a aileron hinge brackets are warped. With them lying flat on the
table there's 1/16-3/32" gap in the center off the table on all 4 of
them. Has anybody else run into this problem. Looks like it might have
happened when they were "stamped" out. Obviously I'll wait 'til monday
and see what Vans has to say but does anybody else have any thoughts on
this. Surely it's not wise to use them like this, or is it???
Anyhow, pictures are attached.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: W-1013A aileron hinge brackets warped |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Mine were like your's, I straightened them.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234600#234600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Simon Barber <simon(at)superduper.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 emp kit - finished - for sale |
I have purchased another kit, so have my completed emp kit for sale.
Workmanship is excellent - 1 small ding in one wing from storage hiccup
- easy to fill. Save yourself 250 hours by buying this kit already done.
Contact me for more details and photos. It's in Berkeley, CA. Asking
$4900 or best offer.
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance |
I'm wearing out my #40 drill bits pretty quickly trying to drill the #40
holes between the skin and stainless counterbalance. Any hints as to what
type of drill bit I should get in order to knock this out quicker would be
great. Thanks.
Andy Johnson
Poquoson, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance |
Make sure you're drilling with enough pressure... especially through stainl
ess and steel....- going to slow will burn the drill up fast.- Put the
pedal to the metal!-
Don
--- On Sat, 3/14/09, Andrew Johnson wrote:
From: Andrew Johnson <noconwud(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance
Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 10:33 PM
I'm wearing out my #40 drill bits pretty quickly trying to drill the #40 ho
les between the skin and stainless counterbalance.- Any hints as to what
type of drill bit I should get in order to knock this out quicker would be
great.- Thanks.
Andy Johnson
Poquoson, VA
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance |
| From: | "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Are you using Boelube? I only used it for the s.s. or really thick al. parts.
And there is a difference in drill bits, some work better/longer. I haven't tried
a bit sharpener yet, might be worth getting, I'm sure someone has and will
chime in.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234641#234641
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance |
I have a Drill Doctor and it works really well to sharpen dull bits. There
may be others which work as well.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 4:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance
>
> Are you using Boelube? I only used it for the s.s. or really thick al.
> parts. And there is a difference in drill bits, some work better/longer. I
> haven't tried a bit sharpener yet, might be worth getting, I'm sure
> someone has and will chime in.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234641#234641
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Report on cabin cover and rear window install |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Bob,
Great photos! Thanks for sharing. I really like those modified ribs on the sub-panel
you made - I did some snooping. Are you a machinist? That's awfully nice
work.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234731#234731
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling into stainless aileron counterbalance |
Drilling stainless steel works best with high bit pressure and low
temperature, which requires lubrication and SLOW bit speed and if the
piece is thick enough, frequent cooling breaks.
Paul Hahn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | 2nd Brake lining replacement |
This weekend I replaced my brake linings for the 2nd time.
The 1st set lasted 170 hours, the 2nd went about 270.
With even more self-discipline I would think I could get
over 300, but I wouldn't expect that on your first set,
for sure. I also just ordered my replacement spares for
the next time around, and decided to add to my original
write-up on brake replacement.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061104/index.html
Towards the bottom of the page you can find more info I
compiled regarding spare brake parts, and an update about
Rapco replacement linings. (Basically the aren't making
them yet, and may never...or may take a long time if they
decide to) Anyway, there is more info there for you all
that may help some day.
I also re-balanced my tires and found that they had stayed
about the same as when I previously balanced them. I just
adjusted them very slightly. The new tires are wearing
pretty well. At 115 hours or so on these retreads, one tire
looks really good. The other has a flat spot that is
pilot induced, and is wearing a little heavier on the
outside as before. Still a long way from flipping them
though, so I'm guessing 300hrs per pair might be about
right.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I got creative with my fuel line rounting to leave some space under the
valve to run the scat tube. See the picture here:
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_5098.jpg
My intent is to run the scat tube by the valve under the valve and rudder
cable on the right side (left when looking at the picture). I will likely
wrap the scat tube in the heat reflective material to minimize heat around
the fuel lines. Note: the fuel line from the valve to filter is not shown
in the picture, but goes straight down and thus should not interfere.
Anyone see a problem with this? Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
Looks like you've got more room than I do, I planned to make a fiberglass
plenum going from one 2" scat to two 1" scat, then another plenum back into
2" on the aft side of the spar.for sure it would be more work, but I wasn't
smart enough to turn one of the Andair fittings 90 degrees.mine are both
vertical so I have less room to work with unless I go back in and totally
replumb.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube
I got creative with my fuel line rounting to leave some space under the
valve to run the scat tube. See the picture here:
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_5098.jpg
My intent is to run the scat tube by the valve under the valve and rudder
cable on the right side (left when looking at the picture). I will likely
wrap the scat tube in the heat reflective material to minimize heat around
the fuel lines. Note: the fuel line from the valve to filter is not shown
in the picture, but goes straight down and thus should not interfere.
Anyone see a problem with this? Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com> |
Can anyone tell me where to find the information in the plans on how to set the
3 degree reflex or is it already set when you have the flaps retracted all the
way. I can see no way to move them higher because of the bracket that holds
the skin between the wing and the cabin. It also has a stopping point because
of the overlapping wing skins. [Question] [Question]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235023#235023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mills" <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
Yes...All the way up is the reflex position
Steve Mills N750SM (reserved)
RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6TI
Naperville, Illinois
Finishing kit, engine install
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of hsdexo
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 4:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 degree reflex
Can anyone tell me where to find the information in the plans on how to set
the 3 degree reflex or is it already set when you have the flaps retracted
all the way. I can see no way to move them higher because of the bracket
that holds the skin between the wing and the cabin. It also has a stopping
point because of the overlapping wing skins. [Question] [Question]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235023#235023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 degree reflex |
All the way up is the 3 deg. reflex.
Dave
hsdexo wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me where to find the information in the
plans on how to set the 3 degree reflex or is it
already
set when you have the flaps retracted all the
way. I can
see no way to move them higher because of the
bracket that
holds the skin between the wing and the cabin.
It also has
a stopping point because of the overlapping wing
skins. [Question] [Question]
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235023#235023
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
you mean like this? :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07074.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07075.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07076.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....finally!!!!!
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Looks like youve got more room than I do, I planned to make a
> fiberglass plenum going from one 2 scat to two 1 scat, then another
> plenum back into 2 on the aft side of the sparfor sure it would be
> more work, but I wasnt smart enough to turn one of the Andair
> fittings 90 degreesmine are both vertical so I have less room to work
> with unless I go back in and totally replumb.
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 17, 2009 9:37 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube
>
> I got creative with my fuel line rounting to leave some space under
> the valve to run the scat tube. See the picture here:
>
> http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_5098.jpg
>
> My intent is to run the scat tube by the valve under the valve and
> rudder cable on the right side (left when looking at the picture). I
> will likely wrap the scat tube in the heat reflective material to
> minimize heat around the fuel lines. Note: the fuel line from the
> valve to filter is not shown in the picture, but goes straight down
> and thus should not interfere.
>
> Anyone see a problem with this? Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3 degree reflex |
| From: | "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks guys for the help. [Laughing]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235090#235090
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start riveting
one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that even a word?) the
other side skin in place. It seems like I can but should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I clecoed all of mine together, but left a space for the saw horses all
the way around.
This way I could sit the tailcone on the saw horses and roll it
side-to-side so I could get access to the required area.
You may be asking because you don't have a rivet partner and you're
trying to shoot and buck at the same time. I managed to get a highly
unskilled helper in my wife. She dropped the rivets in the hole and
held them (flush side) in position with a bucking bar. I shot them from
the backside with a back-rivet set. Looks great and she didn't have to
develop any skills shooting or bucking.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that
even a word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but
should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
Thanks for the quick reply,
I have done 99.9% of the build on my own so far. My wife is making most of
the money so I will get a cheaper helper
It's getting to the point where I NEED some more hands!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
> I clecoed all of mine together, but left a space for the saw horses all
> the way around.
>
> This way I could sit the tailcone on the saw horses and roll it
> side-to-side so I could get access to the required area.
>
> You may be asking because you don't have a rivet partner and you're
> trying to shoot and buck at the same time. I managed to get a highly
> unskilled helper in my wife. She dropped the rivets in the hole and
> held them (flush side) in position with a bucking bar. I shot them from
> the backside with a back-rivet set. Looks great and she didn't have to
> develop any skills shooting or bucking.
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:43 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
>
> I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
> riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that
> even a word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but
> should I?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 emp started!!!!
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
Phil
Thanks for letting us know that trick. I am sure my wife can do the same
thing, I also have a very large flat steel plate that I use for back
riveting and it works great I am sure it will work for this.
Thanks again.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I clecoed all of mine together, but left a space for the saw horses all
the way around.
This way I could sit the tailcone on the saw horses and roll it
side-to-side so I could get access to the required area.
You may be asking because you don't have a rivet partner and you're
trying to shoot and buck at the same time. I managed to get a highly
unskilled helper in my wife. She dropped the rivets in the hole and
held them (flush side) in position with a bucking bar. I shot them from
the backside with a back-rivet set. Looks great and she didn't have to
develop any skills shooting or bucking.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that
even a word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but
should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
I did a lot of my tail cone by myself. I made small back rivet table
(stacked boards) and left as many clecos in as possible and then just stuck
my head in and started riveting. As you start filling rivet holes it gets
easier since you don't have as many clecos in to get in the way (hitting the
table).
I left both side skins on in fear that I would get the bulkheads out of line
somehow.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I clecoed all of mine together, but left a space for the saw horses all
the way around.
This way I could sit the tailcone on the saw horses and roll it
side-to-side so I could get access to the required area.
You may be asking because you don't have a rivet partner and you're
trying to shoot and buck at the same time. I managed to get a highly
unskilled helper in my wife. She dropped the rivets in the hole and
held them (flush side) in position with a bucking bar. I shot them from
the backside with a back-rivet set. Looks great and she didn't have to
develop any skills shooting or bucking.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that
even a word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but
should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
Thunderbolt IO-540 engine for sale.
Details available upon request.
Crated and ready to ship.
Email off line or call.
Paul Grimstad
Portland, Or.
503-849-2123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
Having just been there and done that, I didn't have both side skins on while
riveting and everything came out fine. I think the plans start you on the
bottom skin IIRC and you really have to have the frames in place with the
stiffeners, you won't be able to easily get the frames over the stiffeners
once riveted.
I put my clecoes on the inside of the skins and did as many rivets as
possible by back riveting. This worked great, just be sure there is no gap
between the stiffener and skin and that you're solid on the back riveting
plate.
Once the top skins go on, it really helps to have a ten year old (or petite
spouse) to sit inside and buck rivets for you. Someone else mentioned this
a while ago and offered their ten year old for rent, luckily I had one
available!
Hope this helps.
Kent
#40710 waiting for wing kit
>>> "Strasnuts" 3/18/2009 1:43 PM >>>
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that even a
word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'd really like to get one of those ten year olds - how much do they cost?
In a more serious vein, this is a good time to think about a couple of Adel Clamp
mounts in the aft tailcone area while it's easy to get to it. Even if you run
conduit back there, you'll need some way to hold the conduit in place - Adel
Clamps.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235130#235130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
That is exactly how Mary and I did ours. Worked fantastic and looks
great.
David Maib
40559
On Mar 18, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
I clecoed all of mine together, but left a space for the saw horses all
the way around.
This way I could sit the tailcone on the saw horses and roll it
side-to-side so I could get access to the required area.
You may be asking because you don't have a rivet partner and you're
trying to shoot and buck at the same time. I managed to get a highly
unskilled helper in my wife. She dropped the rivets in the hole and
held them (flush side) in position with a bucking bar. I shot them from
the backside with a back-rivet set. Looks great and she didn't have to
develop any skills shooting or bucking.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start
riveting one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that
even a word?) the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but
should I?
Thanks
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
This is an outstanding suggestion, and one which I wish I had thought about
before finishing the tailcone. Still won't be too hard to do before the
tailcone is mounted to the fuse. I wish Van's had put some suggestions in
the plans for doing this. You need some wires for the lights, plus the
elevator trim at a minimum, is there anything else (magnetometer etc) that
might go back there? Looking at some builders sites (Deem's comes to mind)
I found some pictures of what they did that gave me some ideas, but I like
the conduit idea best as it should provide the best protection for the
wire.
On a related note, I wonder if anyone has installed one of these integrated
position/strobes in the rudder:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/posistrobe.php (manufacturer
at http://www.aveoaviationlights.com/)
Looks pretty cool, no external HV power supply. Kind of expensive though.
I looked at the drawings for the light and measured the flat spot on the
rudder fairing, the light is exactly the right size. Maybe that's standard
for these lights (e.g. the same as the A625 light that Van's sells)?
Kent Ogden
#40710 Waiting for wing kit
>>> "johngoodman" 3/18/2009 3:28 PM >>>
I'd really like to get one of those ten year olds - how much do they cost?
In a more serious vein, this is a good time to think about a couple of Adel
Clamp mounts in the aft tailcone area while it's easy to get to it. Even if
you run conduit back there, you'll need some way to hold the conduit in
place - Adel Clamps.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235130#235130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mills" <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
I built a shelf for my magnetometer, about 1/2 way back in the tailcone
(see
picture), and it would of been lots easier to do while building the
tailcone. Simply mount it on the top longeron, and it will be very
close to
level. You can the fine-tune the level and direction, when you install
the
magnetometer.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Ogden
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 3:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tailcone Question
This is an outstanding suggestion, and one which I wish I had thought
about
before finishing the tailcone. Still won't be too hard to do before the
tailcone is mounted to the fuse. I wish Van's had put some suggestions
in
the plans for doing this. You need some wires for the lights, plus the
elevator trim at a minimum, is there anything else (magnetometer etc)
that
might go back there? Looking at some builders sites (Deem's comes to
mind)
I found some pictures of what they did that gave me some ideas, but I
like
the conduit idea best as it should provide the best protection for the
wire.
On a related note, I wonder if anyone has installed one of these
integrated
position/strobes in the rudder:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/posistrobe.php
(manufacturer
at http://www.aveoaviationlights.com/)
Looks pretty cool, no external HV power supply. Kind of expensive
though.
I looked at the drawings for the light and measured the flat spot on the
rudder fairing, the light is exactly the right size. Maybe that's
standard
for these lights (e.g. the same as the A625 light that Van's sells)?
Kent Ogden
#40710 Waiting for wing kit
>>> "johngoodman" 3/18/2009 3:28 PM >>>
I'd really like to get one of those ten year olds - how much do they
cost?
In a more serious vein, this is a good time to think about a couple of
Adel
Clamp mounts in the aft tailcone area while it's easy to get to it. Even
if
you run conduit back there, you'll need some way to hold the conduit in
place - Adel Clamps.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235130#235130
&~2=03
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
my 2 more cents.... I did as much of the riveting solo as possible. An
approx 1'x2'x3/8" back rivet plate made most of that possible. It was
all cleco'd together from the beginning
Some of the rivets in the top deck required some 2 person riveting.
Contrary to most, I found it easiest to teach my mate to operate the gun
when back riveting or flush riveting. The bar can be harder to handle
and definitely does the damage... and I want to be the one that does the
damage.
Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I am just starting to rivet the tailcone. I need to know if I can start riveting
one side skin and the bottom skin without clecoing (is that even a word?)
the other side skin in place. It seems like I can but should I?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 emp started!!!!
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235111#235111
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Factory |
| From: | "doctornigel" <nschultz3(at)cfl.rr.com> |
I just called Vans and was told that they just moved the factory, and some law
required them to fire the workers and then rehire them, that the same company
and people are building the kits and that the end of April/beginning of may is
when I should get my kit. I wonder if I call another person if I'll get another
story? What is up, I hate to react to something without being able to check
it out, I certainly want my QB to be put together by someone who has as much
experience as able. Can someone findout for sure? I would go with Slo build
if there is a doubt and I could switch. If anyone else hears or calls please
post.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235157#235157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Factory |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I was given essentially the same story when I placed my QB order about
a month ago. However a few days earlier I was told July. It really
would be nice to have accurate info, just to plan other work.
On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 3:16 PM, doctornigel wrote:
>
> I just called Vans and was told that they just moved the factory, and some law
required them to fire the workers and then rehire them, that the same company
and people are building the kits and that the end of April/beginning of may
is when I should get my kit. I wonder if I call another person if I'll get another
story? What is up, I hate to react to something without being able to check
it out, I certainly want my QB to be put together by someone who has as much
experience as able. Can someone findout for sure? I would go with Slo build
if there is a doubt and I could switch. If anyone else hears or calls please post.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235157#235157
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
I too wish I had built a shelf for my dual magnetometers back then. I
built and discarded one I tried to build to hug the very top of the cone
after the fuse was all together.. The challenge is figuring out an
optimal location relative to all the magnetic fields to be installed
later. 1) the elevator trim motor, 2) the pitch trim motor, 3) the
strobe power unit (which assume kicks of some field).
I Installed my tray further forward in the same bay and biased to the
left side of the cone to put it equidistant from the 2 trim motors.
Of course, the unit may not be as sensitive as suggested. Somewhere
down the line some one will have a documented a serviceable location
for the various brands and configs.
Steve Mills wrote:
> I built a shelf for my magnetometer, about 1/2 way back in the
> tailcone (see picture), and it would of been lots easier to do while
> building the tailcone. Simply mount it on the top longeron, and it
> will be very close to level. You can the fine-tune the level and
> direction, when you install the magnetometer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I would second Rene's recommendation to back rivet the tail cone. I was able to
back rivet the entire cone, minus about 6 rivets in the narrowest aft-most portion.
A suggestion that I have not seen mentioned before is that I would recommend
back riveting the F-1047B-R,L and C stiffeners to the F-1075 skin before
clecoing the skin to the bulkheads. It is much easier to do this with the skin
flat on your bench. Just leave the rivet holes open where the stiffeners cross
the bulkheads. I had some concern that I would not be able to get the stiffeners
into the corresponding bulkhead slots, but with a little flexing of the
stiffeners it worked out fine. And saved a lot of riveting inside the tail cone.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235187#235187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
I too back riveted almost the entire tail cone and all the side and bottom
skins (except for those few...) wherever I can figure out a way to back
rivet, I do!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 6:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tailcone Question
I would second Rene's recommendation to back rivet the tail cone. I was able
to back rivet the entire cone, minus about 6 rivets in the narrowest
aft-most portion. A suggestion that I have not seen mentioned before is that
I would recommend back riveting the F-1047B-R,L and C stiffeners to the
F-1075 skin before clecoing the skin to the bulkheads. It is much easier to
do this with the skin flat on your bench. Just leave the rivet holes open
where the stiffeners cross the bulkheads. I had some concern that I would
not be able to get the stiffeners into the corresponding bulkhead slots, but
with a little flexing of the stiffeners it worked out fine. And saved a lot
of riveting inside the tail cone.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235187#235187
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I did the saw horse method, turning the tailcone over and from side-to-side as
required. I did as much as I could solo and then recruited my wife to shoot while
I bucked. Came out fine.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235217#235217
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
Does anyone have pictures of their RV10 SJ mainwheel pant installation?
I am getting ready to start instaling a set of SJ RV10 mainwheel pants on my oversize
RV6A mains. I have the RV6 wheelpant hardware and want to be sure that
the RV10 hardware is not more appropriate.
I would also like to see the stock RV10 wheelpant installation dosumentation -
if someone is willing (or already has) to scan it for me.
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
I'm sure the Deems does. If he doesn't have a picture, nobody does. Let me know
if you need the url.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
Does anyone have pictures of their RV10 SJ mainwheel pant installation?
I am getting ready to start instaling a set of SJ RV10 mainwheel pants on my oversize
RV6A mains. I have the RV6 wheelpant hardware and want to be sure that
the RV10 hardware is not more appropriate.
I would also like to see the stock RV10 wheelpant installation dosumentation -
if someone is willing (or already has) to scan it for me.
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
Found his site - I'll poke around there......
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
>Sent: Mar 19, 2009 1:20 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>I'm sure the Deems does. If he doesn't have a picture, nobody does. Let me know
if you need the url.
>
>Bob
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
>To: RV10-list
>Subject: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>Does anyone have pictures of their RV10 SJ mainwheel pant installation?
>
>I am getting ready to start instaling a set of SJ RV10 mainwheel pants on my oversize
RV6A mains. I have the RV6 wheelpant hardware and want to be sure that
the RV10 hardware is not more appropriate.
>
>I would also like to see the stock RV10 wheelpant installation dosumentation -
if someone is willing (or already has) to scan it for me.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just a quibble: two 1" lines will not "maintain the flow volume" of one 2" line,
since the cross sectional area varies as the square of the diameter (e.g., two
1" lines provide half the cross sectional area as a single 2" line).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235256#235256
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 for sale |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I'm interested.
Myron
Woxof(at)aol.com
602 421-2868
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235258#235258
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I am not aware of any 10 yet featuring the James Wheel Pant Mod. I would be surprised
if Deems or Robin went that route. Let us all know what you find. Barnaby
Wainfan of Kitplanes Mag, did a presentation at OSH '08 on how poor the
massive, bulbous style is for drag reduction. I was even more enlightened that
the leg fairings can create so much loss of speed - I thought they were okay.
There was an interesting post that was never resolved (in the archives) on
the need for additional rudder trim as a result of the nose fairing trailing edges
resting canted off the longitudinal axis in flight.
Deems site is a great documentary on the Stock VANS wheel pant install. Good Luck
with the performance improvement.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
Found his site - I'll poke around there......
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
>Sent: Mar 19, 2009 1:20 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>I'm sure the Deems does. If he doesn't have a picture, nobody does. Let me know
if you need the url.
>
>Bob
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
>To: RV10-list
>Subject: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>Does anyone have pictures of their RV10 SJ mainwheel pant installation?
>
>I am getting ready to start instaling a set of SJ RV10 mainwheel pants on my oversize
RV6A mains. I have the RV6 wheelpant hardware and want to be sure that
the RV10 hardware is not more appropriate.
>
>I would also like to see the stock RV10 wheelpant installation dosumentation -
if someone is willing (or already has) to scan it for me.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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IA0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants |
We're installing both the James wheel pants, and one of my partners is a fiberglass
guru...so we'll see how he does on those. We're also doing a different style
of rudder trim, more like what the Lancair uses, in fact, it was built by
one of my partners who's built Lancairs (I only helped him with some metal bends).
As soon as it's finished (almost!!), I'll see if I'm smart enough to post
pics here. It uses a cut out section of the original rudder (with the extrusion
in it), that is then reinforced with a Z piece and some other pieces sandwiched
together with an extruded hinge section. It definitely looks spiffy,
but it has not been for the faint of sheet metal talent. There have been lots
of hours involved...and helping a lot was to have a complete working model of
the Lancair rudder trim system on the desk while we were building this.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 12:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
I am not aware of any 10 yet featuring the James Wheel Pant Mod. I would be surprised
if Deems or Robin went that route. Let us all know what you find. Barnaby
Wainfan of Kitplanes Mag, did a presentation at OSH '08 on how poor the
massive, bulbous style is for drag reduction. I was even more enlightened that
the leg fairings can create so much loss of speed - I thought they were okay.
There was an interesting post that was never resolved (in the archives) on
the need for additional rudder trim as a result of the nose fairing trailing edges
resting canted off the longitudinal axis in flight.
Deems site is a great documentary on the Stock VANS wheel pant install. Good Luck
with the performance improvement.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
Found his site - I'll poke around there......
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
>Sent: Mar 19, 2009 1:20 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>I'm sure the Deems does. If he doesn't have a picture, nobody does. Let me know
if you need the url.
>
>Bob
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:53 AM
>To: RV10-list
>Subject: RV10-List: Installing SJ RV10 mainwheel pants
>
>
>Does anyone have pictures of their RV10 SJ mainwheel pant installation?
>
>I am getting ready to start instaling a set of SJ RV10 mainwheel pants on my oversize
RV6A mains. I have the RV6 wheelpant hardware and want to be sure that
the RV10 hardware is not more appropriate.
>
>I would also like to see the stock RV10 wheelpant installation dosumentation -
if someone is willing (or already has) to scan it for me.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
And a good quibble it is...I know that, but my point was that going from one
2" line to a single 1" line may not provide enough heat...I was just trying
to "fit between" the pieces I have and that's why I proposed the idea. I
haven't started doing anything on it, still scratching my head...
Thanks for the clarity and observation!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube
Just a quibble: two 1" lines will not "maintain the flow volume" of one 2"
line, since the cross sectional area varies as the square of the diameter
(e.g., two 1" lines provide half the cross sectional area as a single 2"
line).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235256#235256
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube - amount of air/heat |
to cabin?
Bob, regarding the amount of heat. .... I've spoken with a couple of
builder/fliers that have told me that there is MORE than a sufficient
amount of heat supplied into the cabin. One builder went far as to put a
reducer in the baffle opening that supplies air to his heat exchangers.
This would be a good topic to hear from some other fliers as to their
experience.
Deems
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> And a good quibble it is...I know that, but my point was that going from one
> 2" line to a single 1" line may not provide enough heat...I was just trying
> to "fit between" the pieces I have and that's why I proposed the idea. I
> haven't started doing anything on it, still scratching my head...
>
> Thanks for the clarity and observation!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
> Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube
>
>
> Just a quibble: two 1" lines will not "maintain the flow volume" of one 2"
> line, since the cross sectional area varies as the square of the diameter
> (e.g., two 1" lines provide half the cross sectional area as a single 2"
> line).
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235256#235256
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube - amount of air/heat |
to cabin?
> When's
> that bird gonna fly?
>
As soon as the FAA sends me my medical cert. :-)
Deems
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Leaning and cruising. |
Another example of using the low power cruise to take advantage of the 30kt
tailwind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Leaning and cruising |
Just some pictures of our trip to Branson using the lean function of the GRT
EFIS. Fuel flows were in the 9-10 gph range with power percentages between
50-60%. I still haven't determined how fast it goes. The kids voted for
Disneyland but as senior voting member I voted to spend in a red state
rather than Calieeforneea. While touring the shows with my brother in law,
he related that although the Branson area had voted to replace an aging
bridge that our grand children will instead pickup the bill whether or not
they ever visit Branson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Leaning and cruising |
MAY BE DUPLICATE
Just some pictures of our trip to Branson using the lean function of the GRT
EFIS. Fuel flows were in the 9-10 gph range with power percentages between
50-60%. I still haven't determined how fast it goes. The kids voted for
Disneyland but as senior voting member I voted to spend in a red state
rather than Calieeforneea. While touring the shows with my brother in law,
he related that although the Branson area had voted to replace an aging
bridge that our grand children will instead pickup the bill whether or not
they ever visit Branson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leaning and cruising |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Ok, now I am really confused... Why didn't you want to visit California
because of how the state voted? And when you took a family vote only the
senior vote counted. How very red state of you... (all in fun)
David, my real question is how did you get CHT/EGT's to read on both the
Chelton & GRT?
Also am I reading that right on the GRT there is a fuel left/right that
don't seem to add up to the total. 22/19 (L/R) 45.6 Total. I ask because
this is the 3rd or 4th time I noticed this on peoples EMS photo posts.
You have to love 9-10 GPH and 169 ground speed.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 5:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Leaning and cruising
Just some pictures of our trip to Branson using the lean function of the
GRT EFIS. Fuel flows were in the 9-10 gph range with power percentages
between 50-60%. I still haven't determined how fast it goes. The kids
voted for Disneyland but as senior voting member I voted to spend in a
red state rather than Calieeforneea. While touring the shows with my
brother in law, he related that although the Branson area had voted to
replace an aging bridge that our grand children will instead pickup the
bill whether or not they ever visit Branson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leaning and cruising |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
David,
FYI, most of the numbers look pretty good but, the oil temp appears to be
a little low. Oil temps should ideally be in the 175-180 range (to
evaporate the condensation from the oil). Some guys who regularly fly
(LOP, or in cooler climates) rig a flap (controllable from the cockpit)
to limit the airflow across the oil cooler to regulate the oil
temperature.
____________________________________________________________
Digital Photography - Click Now.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmRThqnVQwCwB2PKUED4SPgZIKbuyrPf98QhlHjRrzWhxL9V4Ks/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 for sale |
Myron,
Thanks for your interest.
Great engine for the RV-10.
Paul Grimstad,
503-849-2123
----- Original Message -----
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 12:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 for sale
>
> I'm interested.
> Myron
> Woxof(at)aol.com
> 602 421-2868
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235258#235258
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with Andair valve and scat tube |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest. worked fine.
ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up after takeoff from the
Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it worked again. Does anyone else
have these problems? Why does the XM sight provide a self refresh
transaction on the net? I am considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx
box on the Chelton to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety
of flight issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
problem????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Sometimes our citation WSI fails the same way and then I notice they did
an upgrade or modification. I have to reboot the system and then it
works fine. Sometimes it needs 15 minutes of run time and then reboot.
It doesn't start working until the second flight.
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: XM Radio
I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest. worked
fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up after takeoff
from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it worked again. Does
anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM sight provide a self
refresh transaction on the net? I am considering cancelling XM and using
the Navworx box on the Chelton to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that
it is a safety of flight issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when
encountering adverse weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody
else have this problem????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
The problem seems to be with XM where a reboot does not solve the problem.
ONLY A STOP AT AN FBO WITH INTERNET CONNECTION AND AN XM REFRESH TRANSACTION
WHILE KEYING IN THE RADIO ID.. Is the TIS/FIS going to be any better? Too
bad I did not install a STRIKEFINDER..
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: XM Radio
Sometimes our citation WSI fails the same way and then I notice they did an
upgrade or modification. I have to reboot the system and then it works
fine. Sometimes it needs 15 minutes of run time and then reboot. It
doesn't start working until the second flight.
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: XM Radio
I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest. worked fine.
ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up after takeoff from the
Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it worked again. Does anyone else
have these problems? Why does the XM sight provide a self refresh
transaction on the net? I am considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx
box on the Chelton to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety
of flight issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
problem????
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I have had XM weather for 3 years on my 396 and never have had any
issues....
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 20, 2009, at 7:00 PM, "David McNeill" wrote:
> The problem seems to be with XM where a reboot does not solve the
> problem. ONLY A STOP AT AN FBO WITH INTERNET CONNECTION AND AN XM
> REFRESH TRANSACTION WHILE KEYING IN THE RADIO ID.. Is the TIS/FIS
> going to be any better? Too bad I did not install a STRIKEFINDER..
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Seano
> Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:25 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: XM Radio
>
> Sometimes our citation WSI fails the same way and then I notice they
> did an upgrade or modification. I have to reboot the system and
> then it works fine. Sometimes it needs 15 minutes of run time and
> then reboot. It doesn't start working until the second flight.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David McNeill
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: XM Radio
>
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest.
> worked fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up
> after takeoff from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it
> worked again. Does anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM
> sight provide a self refresh transaction on the net? I am
> considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box on the Chelton
> to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of flight
> issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
> weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
SGFkIGV4YWN0bHkgdGhlIHNhbWUgcHJvYmxlbSBvbiBleGFjdGx5IHRoZSBzYW1lIGRhdGUuIChB
ZnRlcm5vb24gaWYgSSByZWNhbGwgY29ycmVjdGx5KQ0KDQpBIHJlYm9vdCBmaXhlZCBpdCBmb3Ig
bWUgdGhvdWdoLiANCg0KUGhpbA0KDQoNCg0KX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19f
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DQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Gear leg faring hinges |
The manual doesn't state which hinge material to use on the gear legs.
I have my hinges installed on the firewall for the cowl to fuse junction=2C
but I have not done the cowl halves yet.
I have (three=2C 3 footers) steel .063 steel hinges remaining and (three=2C
6 footers) aluminum hinges left. Whats what???
Thanks=2C
John G. NO Not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Just wondering if I should attach the horizontal and vertical or wait until the
plane is closer to being finished. Also should I wait for the fiberglass tips
too. I just finished my tailcone and my wing is already here. I would think
Van's would put it off until the end if it was more convenient.
--------
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 emp started!!!!
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235463#235463
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Is this on the AV-300's, the new receivers that you see these
problems? My old AV-100 was fairly spotty, but my AV-300 has
been flawless. Also, with WSI, once you're activated you don't have
to go to any website to refresh.
Some people may remember that last year I flew the NavWorx system
on my Chelton. It worked for both Wx and TIS-B right out of the box.
The only problem is that FIS-B (ADS-B Weather) doesn't have great
coverage all over the US yet. Shortly I will be testing the box
again to provide only traffic, so that I can maintain my WSI for
Wx yet get both TIS-A and TIS-B traffic. If that works, I'll
be all set and will just use it that way until FIS-B coverage is
all over the US. You can cover so many miles in an RV-10 in a
day that having only scattered regions where Wx is available
wouldn't be any fun.
Tim
Seano wrote:
> Sometimes our citation WSI fails the same way and then I notice they did
> an upgrade or modification. I have to reboot the system and then it
> works fine. Sometimes it needs 15 minutes of run time and then reboot.
> It doesn't start working until the second flight.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David McNeill
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: XM Radio
>
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest.
> worked fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up
> after takeoff from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it
> worked again. Does anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM
> sight provide a self refresh transaction on the net? I am
> considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box on the Chelton
> to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of flight
> issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
> weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
numerous ways to look at this.
What I did was "built" the vertical and horizontal but did not match drill
the fiberglass parts. Now that I am at the finishing kit about to put the
gear on, I went back and finished off the fiberglass pieces with the added
experience of the canopy and doors.
With that said here are the ways to look at this
1) if you have time waiting for the next kit and you're ready to do it,
finish off all but riveting on the fiberglass.
2) If you have the next kit and are ready to keep going, come back to it
later , if it's in a garage do it before raising the fusellage up on the
gear
3) You can do it at the hangar when all is done and you are finishing up
everything
As far as convenient, you need to decide how accessible everything is now-
if you can readily work on the parts on a bench that would work, having it
on the fusellage worked better for me, height wise, having it on the gear
would have had it higher and been more difficult to reach as I did while it
was lower, plus at the end of the build I didn't see wanting to have to get
this done, one main reason is the fiberglass requires some work to make it
fit the way I want it and waiting for flox, plys, etc to cure is not
something I wanted to do at a airport that is 1 hour away from me.
I have seen and talked to numerous builders each did section 11 and 12 at
different times, it really doesn't matter, do it when it's best for you.
Pascal
#40720
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Section 11
>
> Just wondering if I should attach the horizontal and vertical or wait
> until the plane is closer to being finished. Also should I wait for the
> fiberglass tips too. I just finished my tailcone and my wing is already
> here. I would think Van's would put it off until the end if it was more
> convenient.
>
> --------
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 emp started!!!!
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235463#235463
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I think the key in all this is it has nothing to do with the transmission but
in how the receiving equipment is acting. If you are going in and essentially
sending a reactivation signal, your equipment is probably the issue and not
the XM signal. This is equivalent to blaming a web site provider for not being
accessible if your ISP is down. I believe that Sirius/XM occasionally reauthorizes
receives but the receiver shouldn't time out before receives a new authorization
assuming it's used with some regularity. Either way I would complain
to your hardware manufacturer first.
My $0.02
Michael
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David McNeill
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: XM Radio
>
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest.
> worked fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up
> after takeoff from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it
> worked again. Does anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM
> sight provide a self refresh transaction on the net? I am
> considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box on the Chelton
> to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of flight
> issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
> weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
When I was flying for a living, we had numerous instances where WSI
would not refresh and we had to call WSI and have them do some kind
of reboot. Then we would have to wait a half hour or so. This is NOT
the case with the WSI I have in my RV with the AV-350. It has been
flawless since initializing back in October. Don't know what the
difference is, but I am pleased with the service. I am following
Tim's work with the NavWorx system. Sounds pretty cool.
David Maib
40559
On Mar 20, 2009, at 11:09 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
Is this on the AV-300's, the new receivers that you see these
problems? My old AV-100 was fairly spotty, but my AV-300 has
been flawless. Also, with WSI, once you're activated you don't have
to go to any website to refresh.
Some people may remember that last year I flew the NavWorx system
on my Chelton. It worked for both Wx and TIS-B right out of the box.
The only problem is that FIS-B (ADS-B Weather) doesn't have great
coverage all over the US yet. Shortly I will be testing the box
again to provide only traffic, so that I can maintain my WSI for
Wx yet get both TIS-A and TIS-B traffic. If that works, I'll
be all set and will just use it that way until FIS-B coverage is
all over the US. You can cover so many miles in an RV-10 in a
day that having only scattered regions where Wx is available
wouldn't be any fun.
Tim
Seano wrote:
> Sometimes our citation WSI fails the same way and then I notice
> they did an upgrade or modification. I have to reboot the system
> and then it works fine. Sometimes it needs 15 minutes of run time
> and then reboot. It doesn't start working until the second flight.
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David McNeill
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: XM Radio
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest.
> worked fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up
> after takeoff from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it
> worked again. Does anyone else have these problems? Why does
> the XM
> sight provide a self refresh transaction on the net? I am
> considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box on the Chelton
> to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of flight
> issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
> weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
> *
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
If that is the case then the XM reauthorization should retry as the aircraft
hardware is not ON 90+% of the time. Other XM receivers i.e. car radios have
considerably more ON time than aircraft weather systems even though mine is
ON whenever I am flying.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 4:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: XM Radio
-->
I think the key in all this is it has nothing to do with the transmission
but in how the receiving equipment is acting. If you are going in and
essentially sending a reactivation signal, your equipment is probably the
issue and not the XM signal. This is equivalent to blaming a web site
provider for not being accessible if your ISP is down. I believe that
Sirius/XM occasionally reauthorizes receives but the receiver shouldn't time
out before receives a new authorization assuming it's used with some
regularity. Either way I would complain to your hardware manufacturer
first.
My $0.02
Michael
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David McNeill
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, March 20, 2009 3:39 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: XM Radio
>
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest.
> worked fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up
> after takeoff from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it
> worked again. Does anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM
> sight provide a self refresh transaction on the net? I am
> considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box on the Chelton
> to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of flight
> issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse
> weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009 |
AirCrafters will be holding our "Composites for RV-10s" class again May 9 &
10 (Saturday and Sunday), 2009.
More information is available here:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We will cover all of the composite parts, including the fitting of a cabin
top. The class consists of equal parts lecture and hands-on work. Wear old
clothes!
Although the cabin top and doors are specific to RV-10s, the class is a good
primer for any aircraft-related composite work.
Please email or call if you would like us to fit your top during the
class--no charge!
(This will be our fifth top fitting)
Again, rides will be available in our RV-10, weather permitting.
Class size is limited to 15 builders. Cost is $350. We get a lot of very
positive feedback, so sign up early!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Thanks Pascal, That is the info I needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Section 11
>
> numerous ways to look at this.
> What I did was "built" the vertical and horizontal but did not match drill
> the fiberglass parts. Now that I am at the finishing kit about to put the
> gear on, I went back and finished off the fiberglass pieces with the added
> experience of the canopy and doors.
> With that said here are the ways to look at this
> 1) if you have time waiting for the next kit and you're ready to do it,
> finish off all but riveting on the fiberglass.
> 2) If you have the next kit and are ready to keep going, come back to it
> later , if it's in a garage do it before raising the fusellage up on the
> gear
> 3) You can do it at the hangar when all is done and you are finishing up
> everything
>
> As far as convenient, you need to decide how accessible everything is now-
> if you can readily work on the parts on a bench that would work, having it
> on the fusellage worked better for me, height wise, having it on the gear
> would have had it higher and been more difficult to reach as I did while
> it was lower, plus at the end of the build I didn't see wanting to have to
> get this done, one main reason is the fiberglass requires some work to
> make it fit the way I want it and waiting for flox, plys, etc to cure is
> not something I wanted to do at a airport that is 1 hour away from me.
> I have seen and talked to numerous builders each did section 11 and 12 at
> different times, it really doesn't matter, do it when it's best for you.
> Pascal
> #40720
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 6:59 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Section 11
>
>>
>> Just wondering if I should attach the horizontal and vertical or wait
>> until the plane is closer to being finished. Also should I wait for the
>> fiberglass tips too. I just finished my tailcone and my wing is already
>> here. I would think Van's would put it off until the end if it was more
>> convenient.
>>
>> --------
>> A&P, ATP
>> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
>> RV-10 emp started!!!!
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235463#235463
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg faring hinges |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
John,
I just finished my landing gear fairings last week. I used the 3 foot sections.
Haven't started on the cowling yet but it looks to me like that is where I'd used
the 6 foot sections.
Tom H.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235575#235575
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
The problem you describe is an XM chip issue. If the XM doesn't see a
satellite for a while it drops the connection to stop theft. This was set
up long before weather when it was basically a radio only service. It
happens with the cheap XM and the 'certified' XM like I have in my RV. Real
pain in the but ... however the refresh only takes seconds .. especially if
you're airborne with you request it. I've never seen it stop working in
flight .. it's always after the aircraft has been hangered for a while. As
I understand it there is really no fix for it, although the weather folks
have been talking for some time that there may be a way.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
On Fri, Mar 20, 2009 at 4:39 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest. worked
> fine. ON the return March 19, the system failed to come up after takeoff
> from the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it worked again. Does
> anyone else have these problems? Why does the XM sight provide a self
> refresh transaction on the net? I am considering cancelling XM and using the
> Navworx box on the Chelton to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a
> safety of flight issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering
> adverse weather and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this
> problem????
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg faring hinges |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Just finished the cowling and it takes a hinge 39" long for the sides . So 36"
must be for the legs. I did not realize that hinges were used on the leg fairings,
hope I still have hinges left, haven't checked inventory box lately.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235581#235581
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wind screen fairing |
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has anyone
installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind
screen, would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 Parking Brake kit |
| From: | "westexflyboy" <airplanedriver(at)gmail.com> |
wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote:
> Can someone tell me what is in this kit that they are charging $179?
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/
If you're like me - devastated and losing sleep because I forgot about the parking
brake until after I had already installed the complete brake system according
to the plans - the David Ward adapter kit from Van's is FANTASTIC!. Simply
drill out eight rivets (i.e. remove the bracket that mounts the AN brake fittings
to the firewall) and rivet this beautifully machined anodized bracket in
the same holes. No drilling through stainless steel. All countersinking already
done and nutplates already installed. It comes with all the right fittings
and hardware with no trial and error, and no research required, and no modification
to my brake lines that I proudly fabricated exactly per plans. Well
worth the price IMHO. I did miss out on the satisfaction of solving the parking
brake challenge on my own.
Kudos to David Ward, whoever and where ever you are!
--------
Chase Snodgrass
Presidio, Texas
www.flybigbend.com
Simultaneous RV-10 twins under construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235594#235594
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vetterman Exhaust system - Page FF6-2 frm 2007 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
After twenty months I finally opened my box of exhaust parts and -oppps - it does
not match the drawing on pg FF6-2.................
My Vetterman exhaust manifold has two tail pipes instead of the two manifolds combining
into one tailpipe. Is this the new program for the IO540 engine?????
Is there a replacement Pg FF6-2 etc that shows the install of this two pipe system?
- Anybody with info or pics????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235596#235596
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Sony e-reader and ifr charts |
There was a mention of Sony ereader and PDF Approach Plates a while
ago which sparked my interest. I fly a few times a year from SE
Florida to New Mexico and carry a suitcase full of approach plates.
My favorites are Florida which is so thick that you cannot fold it
over and Texas, with three books in all. If you do not know where
your destination is (geographically in Texas) on the chart you do not
know which book to open to find the plate.
I bought the ereader 505 for $ 269, including shipping, form Amazon
with generous return policy. After downloading the entire US charts
from http://readerplates.com ($10, no subscription required), I found
that while magnify the plate, the orientation of the plate changes
from portrait to landscape. This requires turning the reader 90
degrees to view the chart. Although I can read the chart without
magnifying it, I found this to be a disadvantage.
I solved the problem as shown in the following pics ( I hope that I
have not clogged someone's download files with these pics).
First picture shows an aluminum plate with couple of heavy duty velcro
strips (they are about 3/16" thick), a hole I drilled and counter-sunk
in the plate and the knee pad, the ereader and a plastic coffee can
lid that provides the friction. Friction mechanism, courtesy of my
smarter friends.
The second and the third pictures how they assemble.
The forth picture shows the velcro on the back of ereader. I placed
it based on my needs. You may place it anywhere you think will work
for you. Also, the screw holding the assembly has to be cut very
short with a low profile lock washer to fit under the ereader.
The next pictures show the different orientations. With the push of
one button and flip of a finger, the ereader goes into landscape
magnification mode.
I flew an approach yesterday and believe that this is a good
alternative to carrying a lot of charts short of upgrading my now
three year old (outdated!) equipment. I plan to print the plates for
my destination and the alternate from AOPA site and carry the ereader
for unexpected diversion.
The folks at readerplates.com are very responsive. The organization,
the magnification and navigation of the plates are easy and logical.
I am sure people with machine shops and smarter folks can come up with
better solution.
IMG_2079.JPG
IMG_2080.JPG
IMG_2081.JPG
IMG_2082.JPG
IMG_2083.JPG
IMG_2084.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wind screen fairing |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I glassed mine, and would do so again. It seems to me that it would be at least
as much work, if not more, to trim the metal fairing to a good fit. I would make
one change from Van's instructions. If you make all pieces of your layup full
length it is going to be pretty thick at the door opening, and will be difficult
to get a smooth transition to the door. I have seen several -10s with a
noticeable bulge in this area. I made the first 4 layers of my layup full length,
then cut each additional layer 1" shorter than the previous layer on each
end. No bulge.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235666#235666
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wind screen fairing |
Piece of cake. Follow Van's instructions to the letter and it's
easy...just takes time, that's all (two days?). And the transition from
top to plexy will be smoooooth as glass (pun intended). This is my
second. Built a 'nine' too.
Chuck
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has anyone
installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind
screen, would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 Parking Brake kit |
This was asked a while ago by william and he was asking how it can justify
so much money when one can do the same thing for far less.
No disagreement that a parking brake is needed, and doing it oneself can be
accomplished for far less without major work.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "westexflyboy" <airplanedriver(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 Parking Brake kit
>
>
> wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote:
>> Can someone tell me what is in this kit that they are charging $179?
>>
>> William
>> http://nerv10.com/
>
>
> If you're like me - devastated and losing sleep because I forgot about the
> parking brake until after I had already installed the complete brake
> system according to the plans - the David Ward adapter kit from Van's is
> FANTASTIC!. Simply drill out eight rivets (i.e. remove the bracket that
> mounts the AN brake fittings to the firewall) and rivet this beautifully
> machined anodized bracket in the same holes. No drilling through
> stainless steel. All countersinking already done and nutplates already
> installed. It comes with all the right fittings and hardware with no
> trial and error, and no research required, and no modification to my brake
> lines that I proudly fabricated exactly per plans. Well worth the price
> IMHO. I did miss out on the satisfaction of solving the parking brake
> challenge on my own.
>
> Kudos to David Ward, whoever and where ever you are!
>
> --------
> Chase Snodgrass
> Presidio, Texas
> www.flybigbend.com
> Simultaneous RV-10 twins under construction
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235594#235594
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust system - Page FF6-2 frm 2007 |
Mike, the brackets that support the exhaust to the motor mount are really w
impy... I think I made up an extra set out of stainless.- Plus they need
to be bent upward to support the exhaust properly.
Don McDonald- #40636
Airworthiness inspection on Monday!
--- On Sun, 3/22/09, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Vetterman Exhaust system - Page FF6-2 frm 2007
Date: Sunday, March 22, 2009, 12:33 AM
After twenty months I finally opened my box of exhaust parts and -oppps - i
t does not match the drawing on pg FF6-2.................
My Vetterman exhaust manifold has two tail pipes instead of the two manifol
ds combining into one tailpipe. Is this the new program for the IO540 engin
e?????
Is there a replacement Pg FF6-2 etc that shows the install of this two pipe
system? -- Anybody with info or pics????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235596#235596
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust system torque values - etc - Vetterman 2 stack |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
The info is pretty slim on the installation of the Vetterman dual stack system.
Vans plans say to torque the exhaust nuts to 100-140 in/lbs
Vetterman's sheet says to torque the nuts to 140-180 in/lbs
Any idea which is preferred?????
Also Vans says to use anti-seize on the nuts. Any suggestions for what this product
is ..........???????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235672#235672
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wind screen fairing |
I would have considered the mlskunkworks fairing but it was not
available when I did my windscreen. It seems like it would save some
work on the front end and might be pretty nice in the event you ever
have to remove your windshield.
David Maib
40559
On Mar 22, 2009, at 1:22 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
Piece of cake. Follow Van's instructions to the letter and it's
easy...just takes time, that's all (two days?). And the transition
from top to plexy will be smoooooth as glass (pun intended). This is
my second. Built a 'nine' too.
Chuck
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has
anyone installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their
wind screen, would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wind screen fairing |
I am not asking as much from the standpoint of difficulty, as I am
asking for functionality regarding cracking and potential windshield
removal issues later. Thanks for the replies so far!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Weyant
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
Piece of cake. Follow Van's instructions to the letter and it's
easy...just takes time, that's all (two days?). And the transition from
top to plexy will be smoooooth as glass (pun intended). This is my
second. Built a 'nine' too.
Chuck
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:06 PM
To: RV-10 matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has
anyone installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind
screen, would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust system - Page FF6-2 frm 2007 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Thanks - Tim - John - Don for the help - the pictures really help
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235699#235699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 Parking Brake kit |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
For those of us cheapskates - you can do it youself. Maybe not as elegant as the
Ward kit , but still effective and cheeeeeeaaap
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=41575&highlight=matco
See my post of 3/31/08
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235700#235700
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust system torque values - etc - Vetterman 2 stack |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Antiseize keeps the nuts from becoming permanently corroded to the exhaust studs.
Look at Permatex 133A and similar products.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235712#235712
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Nav/Strobe Lights |
I'm starting to shop for Nav/Strobe lights and these Aveoflash units
sold by Spruce seem interesting. Does anyone have any experience
with these? Is there something else out there that is a sure bet?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveoFlash.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Wind screen fairing |
I'm interested in this as well. One of the areas that's been a concern for
me is replacing the windshield. I recently replaced the windshield on my
Cherokee, which was a pretty straightforward job and didn't really mess up
the paint job. At some point in time, I imagine that the RV-10 windshield
will need to be replaced due to cracks, scratches, or crazing. It make take
10-20 years for the windshield to get that bad, but I think it's just a
question of time. It would be nice to talk to any RV-10 builder that has
installed these fairings to get their opinion. Has anyone asked M L Blue
Skunk for reference RV-10 builder's names?
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
I am not asking as much from the standpoint of difficulty, as I am asking
for functionality regarding cracking and potential windshield removal issues
later. Thanks for the replies so far!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Weyant <mailto:chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
Piece of cake. Follow Van's instructions to the letter and it's easy...just
takes time, that's all (two days?). And the transition from top to plexy
will be smoooooth as glass (pun intended). This is my second. Built a
'nine' too.
Chuck
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has anyone
installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind screen,
would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron pushrod holes |
Today I started working on the rear wing spars. The instructions show a
"squared" hole to be cut into the W-1007D doubler plate however the hole
in my rear spar is actually a "teardrop" shape. Am I to modify the hole
in the spar or simply copy the shape in the spar? A picture is
attached.
Also, the doubler plates overhang the slot cut into the spar (slot is
for the flap brackets I assume) just a little. Do I need to trim the
doubler plates to the slot in the spar?? Another picture is attached.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nav/Strobe Lights |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Yeah, those look pretty interesting - a bit pricey. I went with Kuntzleman's triple magnum. Good price and they look great powered up in the shop. Give me a year & I'll tell you how they look in the air. http://www.kestrobes.com/cat3.htm
It seems like there are new LED lights coming out every month. I noticed that Kuntzleman
even has LED landing lights.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235734#235734
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron pushrod holes |
Just off of memory. The teardrop is an improvement so the rivet from the
aileron connecting rod can not get caught. Match the holes...just my old
memory at work. If you check the archives I think you can find some
discussion on the interference problem.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 5:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron pushrod holes
Today I started working on the rear wing spars. The instructions show a
"squared" hole to be cut into the W-1007D doubler plate however the hole in
my rear spar is actually a "teardrop" shape. Am I to modify the hole in the
spar or simply copy the shape in the spar? A picture is attached.
Also, the doubler plates overhang the slot cut into the spar (slot is for
the flap brackets I assume) just a little. Do I need to trim the doubler
plates to the slot in the spar?? Another picture is attached.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Wind screen fairing |
I'd just reiterate my input that.I cannot imagine a cleaner intersection on
these RV's (4,6,7,8,9,10) than what is already out there. I just cannot.
The fleet has not had these problems to much of a degree and, especially
when the windows are secured with adhesive (I used sikaflex on my 7A). You
say 10 or 20 years, I have owned a lot of airplanes that had windscreens
older than that which remained serviceable.so I think to some degree it
depends what you're willing to fly behind.
I'm not saying don't go for sheet metal fairing solution, but understand
that when you apply solutions to (what I'd consider in this case) non
problems, sometimes you get less than what you started with, especially with
thousands of flying examples using a technique that is well known, easily
accomplished and well documented. That would seem to be the case here.but I
have not seen an installation with a metal fairing, only hundreds done the
glass/micro/layup way. I am biased, I guess, I think they look great, and
in fact are in my opinion one of the big selling points of the basic RV
design.
Bob Brown
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
I'm interested in this as well. One of the areas that's been a concern for
me is replacing the windshield. I recently replaced the windshield on my
Cherokee, which was a pretty straightforward job and didn't really mess up
the paint job. At some point in time, I imagine that the RV-10 windshield
will need to be replaced due to cracks, scratches, or crazing. It make take
10-20 years for the windshield to get that bad, but I think it's just a
question of time. It would be nice to talk to any RV-10 builder that has
installed these fairings to get their opinion. Has anyone asked M L Blue
Skunk for reference RV-10 builder's names?
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
I am not asking as much from the standpoint of difficulty, as I am asking
for functionality regarding cracking and potential windshield removal issues
later. Thanks for the replies so far!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Weyant <mailto:chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
Piece of cake. Follow Van's instructions to the letter and it's easy...just
takes time, that's all (two days?). And the transition from top to plexy
will be smoooooth as glass (pun intended). This is my second. Built a
'nine' too.
Chuck
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 10:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has anyone
installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind screen,
would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore successful,
first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
Congrats John!
I am about a month behind you and working through the finishing details.
Keep us updated on the fly off!
Byron
South GA
N253RV Assigned
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | building_partner(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
Congrats John!!!!!- I guess there's several of us right behind you.- I
managed a couple of-somewhat high speed taxis today, and have the airwort
hiness inspection tomorrow.- So Deem's is ready, Byron Gillespie is ready
, I'm ready, anyone else out there within a month or so ready?
Don McDonald #40636
--- On Sun, 3/22/09, John Testement wrote:
From: John Testement <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
Date: Sunday, March 22, 2009, 6:26 PM
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore successful, f
irst flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!
-
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond , VA
-=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Affirmative - just waiting to have our Aussie instrument and radio ADs
signed off (tomorrow hopefully), with final airworthiness inspection
next weekend.
Cheers,
Ron McGann
40187/VH-XRM
South Australia
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
building_partner(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, 23 March 2009 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
Congrats John!!!!! I guess there's several of us right behind you. I
managed a couple of somewhat high speed taxis today, and have the
airworthiness inspection tomorrow. So Deem's is ready, Byron Gillespie
is ready, I'm ready, anyone else out there within a month or so ready?
Don McDonald #40636
--- On Sun, 3/22/09, John Testement wrote:
From: John Testement <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, March 22, 2009, 6:26 PM
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond , VA
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
Knowing how those first flights feel, I hope you've enjoyed the rest of your
day. Congratulations of the highest order, every person who completes a
homebuilt is at least persistent, that's a guarantee!
Enjoy and stay safe,
Bob Brown
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 6:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore successful,
first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
Well Done John!!!! Beautiful looking aircraft!
Congratulations!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....someday soon
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Testement wrote:
>
> N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
> successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
> What a great plane!
>
>
>
> Airborne photos to come.
>
> John Testement
> N311RV
> #40321
> Richmond, VA
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Agreed! Fantastic!
Robin
-------
Well Done John!!!! Beautiful looking aircraft!
Congratulations!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....someday soon
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Testement wrote:
>
> N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
> successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
> What a great plane!
>
>
>
> Airborne photos to come.
>
> John Testement
> N311RV
> #40321
> Richmond, VA
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
Congrats John... it's come a long way since I saw it in your
basement... beautiful plane... you should be proud.
Jeff
On Mar 22, 2009, at 6:26 PM, John Testement wrote:
> N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
> successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands
> off. What a great plane!
>
>
> Airborne photos to come.
>
> John Testement
> N311RV
> #40321
> Richmond, VA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Missing index holes in doors |
| From: | "precisedix" <precisedix(at)gmail.com> |
It is unfortunate that the Repeat Offenders and new Van kit builders believe the
Vans parts to be acceptable. The developments in solvents, cements, potting
compounds and substrates are easily a decade ahead of what is "Vans - State of
the Art". How is that man???
_________________
blanchard grinding (http://www.preciseplate.com)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235775#235775
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Missing index holes in doors |
You obviously never have seen some of my posts on the subject. :)
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of precisedix
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 3:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Missing index holes in doors
It is unfortunate that the Repeat Offenders and new Van kit builders believe the
Vans parts to be acceptable. The developments in solvents, cements, potting
compounds and substrates are easily a decade ahead of what is "Vans - State of
the Art". How is that man???
_________________
blanchard grinding (http://www.preciseplate.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | Mike Much <mkmuch(at)gmail.com> |
Nice plane! Exciting times!
I'm only 3+ years behind u...
www.2muchflying.com
On 3/22/09, John Testement wrote:
> N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore successful,
> first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!
>
>
> Airborne photos to come.
>
> John Testement
> N311RV
> #40321
> Richmond, VA
>
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
Congratulations, John Sweet looking airplane. Looks like you have
done a great job.
Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Gipson" <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wind screen fairing |
Dave, we installed a metal fairing that Bud Warren fabricated. He had done
it before and was up to the challenge. I think it came out quite nice.
May save a paint job down the road should the windshield need replacement.
The installation was the easy part. Bud spent several hours fashioning the
fairing from a piece of sheet metal. This job is for the experienced, not a
novice or else you will probably be disappointed.
Bill Gipson
N720WL
LS1 powered RV-10
Conroe, Texas
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 12:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wind screen fairing
An aluminum fairing is available for the RV-10 wind screen. Has anyone
installed one of these? For those who have glassed in their wind screen,
would you use a fairing if you had to do it again?
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Max X-wind speed to taxi |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I spent several hours yesterday at the hanger re-arranging it to receive the fuselage
for final assembly. The winds were 25 gusting to 35 and today it will
be higher. The wind was almost straight down the runway.
This started me to thinking, I will have up to a quarter mile taxing to/from the
runway at 90 deg to the wind.
Question: what is the max x-wind you have taxied your 10 in with no problems and
what do you use as your limit? This is my first airplane with a free castering
nose gear and I am wondering how much of a problem this will create.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235796#235796
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Max X-wind speed to taxi |
It was 11 knots gusting to 22 Saturday and I had no problem.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 7:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Max X-wind speed to taxi
I spent several hours yesterday at the hanger re-arranging it to receive the
fuselage for final assembly. The winds were 25 gusting to 35 and today it
will be higher. The wind was almost straight down the runway.
This started me to thinking, I will have up to a quarter mile taxing to/from
the runway at 90 deg to the wind.
Question: what is the max x-wind you have taxied your 10 in with no problems
and what do you use as your limit? This is my first airplane with a free
castering nose gear and I am wondering how much of a problem this will
create.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235796#235796
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod holes |
That is the shape of the hole in my quick build wings.
I will send you a photo off list.
Larry Rosen
#356
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Today I started working on the rear wing spars. The instructions show
> a "squared" hole to be cut into the W-1007D doubler plate however the
> hole in my rear spar is actually a "teardrop" shape. Am I to modify
> the hole in the spar or simply copy the shape in the spar? A picture
> is attached.
>
> Also, the doubler plates overhang the slot cut into the spar (slot is
> for the flap brackets I assume) just a little. Do I need to trim the
> doubler plates to the slot in the spar?? Another picture is attached.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
40271 - soon to be 410EG goes to paint this week. All parts have been fit in the
shop. Seats are in the engine cranks and the pannel is a no smoking zone.
Final assembly in 2 -3 weeks.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235818#235818
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
I have implemented XM using the Spruce XM receiver and my own software. Ear
ly on I had sporatic problems resetting the box when there was an extensive
delay in data reception. It made the box appear dead until next boot.
-
Another user had problems when stopping and restarting his subscription and
getting the timing right for reception of the "refresh". Another significa
nt outage I had was because the whole XM system went down and I needed a "r
efresh". Once these problems were resolved it has not failed once in the la
st 12 months and comes up briskly with the first nextrad image within 5 min
utes.
-
We need to focus problems on the exact piece of equipment talking to the XM
receiver and the mfg of the XM receiver, and the software version in the X
M receiver. The specification for this communication is a guarded secret th
at-nobody will share (with me)-so there is-much room for errors with
reverse engineering.- If you have a copy please contact me.
-
Also, when the-network "refresh" is activated it will not begin for appro
x 30 minutes and times out after 3 hours - so you need to get the timing an
d antenna reception right.
-
None of these comments nor the lack of a clear problem definition surprise
me.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
-
-
--- On Sat, 3/21/09, David Schaefer wrote:
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: XM Radio
Date: Saturday, March 21, 2009, 7:22 PM
The problem you describe is an XM chip issue.- If the XM doesn't see a sa
tellite for a while it drops the connection to stop theft.- This was set
up long before weather when it was basically a radio only service.- It ha
ppens with the cheap XM and the 'certified' XM like I have in my RV.- Rea
l pain in the but ... however the refresh only takes seconds .. especially
if you're airborne with you request it.- I've never seen it stop working
in flight .. it's always after the aircraft has been hangered for a while.
- As I understand it there is really no fix for it, although the weather
folks have been talking for some time that there may be a way.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS -"Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
On Fri, Mar 20, 2009 at 4:39 PM, David McNeill wrote:
I was using XM for weather on the trip March 14 to the Midwest. worked fine
. ON the return March 19, the system failed-to come up after takeoff from
the Midwest. I stopped in TX to refresh and it worked again. Does anyone e
lse have these problems? Why does the XM sight provide a self refresh trans
action on the net? I am considering cancelling XM and using the Navworx box
on the Chelton to get TIS and FIS info... I told XM that it is a safety of
flight issue, in that expecting NEXRAD data when encountering adverse weat
her and being surprised, is not funny. Anybody else have this problem????
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Max X-wind speed to taxi |
Yesterday at KWVI, AWOS was saying 17 gusting to 24. I taxied out with
almost a direct crosswind with no problem. It was the first time I noticed
that I had to use bit of differential braking to go down the taxi way. The
nose wanted to point into the wind, and adding rudder didn't help. But a
touch of brake steered it back to centerline.
I was taxiing 020, and the wind was about 250. I turned 080 to use runway
26 for takeoff. When I turned to taxi downwind, the stick gave me a pretty
stiff push. Keeping it centered took more thought and effort than keeping
the nose straight.
After working with 17 knots, I wouldn't hesitate to taxi with a 20 knot
crosswind. Just hold on to the stick!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC 345 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 6:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Max X-wind speed to taxi
I spent several hours yesterday at the hanger re-arranging it to receive the
fuselage for final assembly. The winds were 25 gusting to 35 and today it
will be higher. The wind was almost straight down the runway.
This started me to thinking, I will have up to a quarter mile taxing to/from
the runway at 90 deg to the wind.
Question: what is the max x-wind you have taxied your 10 in with no problems
and what do you use as your limit? This is my first airplane with a free
castering nose gear and I am wondering how much of a problem this will
create.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235796#235796
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Max X-wind speed to taxi |
I have had several problems with the wind, most of them traced to my owning
a Piper Archer with steerable nose wheel for many years and not anticipati
ng what might happen if the nose wheel can flop about.
-
I have learned (and probably learn again) that this aircraft desperately wa
nts to weather vane.-I have approached the last transit parking place wit
h the nose pointed downwind, got out and watched the plane make a nice quic
k 90 degree turn.
-
Taxiing will be slow-in a cross wind because although the braking will ef
fectively steer the plane it will also stop the plane. Here is where you do
not appreciate the leverage and force the wind exerts on the aft side of t
he fuse/tail.
-
In a high wind condition the takeoff technique is exactly opposite of my Ar
cher. Assume the crosswind is from the right. With the Archer I could start
the takeoff roll with some right rudder (nose wheel) and the aircraft poin
ting slightly to the right. When I tried this with the RV-10 the-wind on
the aft fuse rotated the plane clockwise-accelerating it to the right. I
almost lost it. Now in these same conditions I am ready to slam in a non-in
ituitive hard left rudder.
-
I find the castering wheel very different. Instead of focusing on where I p
oint the nose I focus on where the wind will push my tail.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Mon, 3/23/09, Rene Felker wrote:
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Max X-wind speed to taxi
Date: Monday, March 23, 2009, 7:17 AM
It was 11 knots gusting to 22 Saturday and I had no problem.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 7:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Max X-wind speed to taxi
I spent several hours yesterday at the hanger re-arranging it to receive th
e
fuselage for final assembly.- The winds were 25 gusting to 35 and today i
t
will be higher.- The wind was almost straight down the runway.
This started me to thinking, I will have up to a quarter mile taxing to/fro
m
the runway at 90 deg to the wind.
Question: what is the max x-wind you have taxied your 10 in with no problem
s
and what do you use as your limit?- This is my first airplane with a free
castering nose gear and I am wondering how much of a problem this will
create.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235796#235796
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Max X-wind speed to taxi |
I can't answer your question for the -10 ..... I'm still building
.... but I have many hours in my Grumman (AA-1B) with similar nosegear.
Bear in mind that the -10 is bigger so .......
Power and good brakes will whip any crosswind .... short of hurricanes
and tornadoes! :-P so taxiing shouldn't be a problem. Once you
master the cross-controlled landing, it's a piece of cake ...... just
remember that there's a rudder back there and use it. You'll be amazed
at the number of 'high time pilots' that forget to move the rudder!!!
When you get a landing in a high crosswind .... write it down. That's
your demonstrated crosswind capability and should be in your aircraft
handbook. Keep it updated!!! My Grumman manual has a notation:
Demonstrated crosswind component 36 MPH, Nov. 10, 1999.
Having said all that, I don't think I'd go looking for a high number
just to say I did it!!!
Linn
orchidman wrote:
>
> I spent several hours yesterday at the hanger re-arranging it to receive the
fuselage for final assembly. The winds were 25 gusting to 35 and today it will
be higher. The wind was almost straight down the runway.
>
> This started me to thinking, I will have up to a quarter mile taxing to/from
the runway at 90 deg to the wind.
>
> Question: what is the max x-wind you have taxied your 10 in with no problems
and what do you use as your limit? This is my first airplane with a free castering
nose gear and I am wondering how much of a problem this will create.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Final Finishing - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235796#235796
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Max X-wind speed to taxi |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Thanks all for your comments. I have not seen this covered in the past and I am
within a little more then a month of my transition training and this has crossed
my mind more then once.
It is sounding like this is going to be a very good year for -10 first flights.
It shouldn't be a problem filling up more then 2 rows at Osh this year. :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235935#235935
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
Wow! Sweet. Inspirational. Congratulations!!
John Testement wrote:
>
> N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
> successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
> What a great plane!
>
>
>
> Airborne photos to come.
>
> John Testement
> N311RV
> #40321
> Richmond, VA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Congratulations John!
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 8:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore
successful, first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off.
What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Let me pass on the report I got from an RV-10 owner concerning the "Lose of
Door in Flight" situation. The part I like was the statement 'the plane flew
fine.'
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
"After the P seals are added to the doors it can be rather hard to close
them. Since the rear latch is difficult to see and you pull the door closed
from the forward edge the rear pin is the most likely to not be engaged. My
passenger failed to close it properly and I did not check it before
take-off. Immediately after rotation and within 200' of the ground there was
a loud bang and it became very noisy and windy. The plane flew fine, I kept
it to about 90kts, did a 180 and landed without further incident. The door
pulled through the bolts at the hinge and the gas strut broke loose both at
the door and cabin attach points. The door halves had mostly delaminated,
the window was broken, and the inner shell had broken through at the curve
but was easily repairable. There was no damage to the empennage."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Congrats Don. I am sure your inspection will go off with out a hitch.
When I get to the doors I will sure come visit you for advise.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
If I was going o do them again,,,, GOD forbid, I would insert a
strengthening plate aft of the door handle. Then you'd have something to
actually fasten a strap to.
My 2 cents.
Don McDonald
Received the FAA's blessing today with an airworthiness
cert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--- On Mon, 3/23/09, linn wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: doors
Date: Monday, March 23, 2009, 7:00 PM
<http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> >
OK, speaking of doors ..... has anyone suffered damage because the wind
caught the doors? Any other concerns with the doors??? Any 'fixes' that
you'd do when you're assembling the doors??? I'm getting ready to do mine
..... educate me!!!
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
<http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Tim@myrv10.com> > When the
winds are 20+, taxi isn't the worry,
> holding the doors when you open them is a bigger concern.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
sp; --> ht <http://forums.matronics.com/> - List Contribution
Web Site; &nb; http://=======================
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Passed already... yesterday.- then took the FAA inspector, Dilly, out for
a bbq dinner.- Great guy, unbelievable that he's a govt employee.- Bas
ically inspected my plane on his own time.- Now for finishing my flight t
raining.- Headed to Dallas this weekend for RV10 training and the hp endo
rcement with Alex.- The ducks are lining up!
Sure, come on up anytime.--
Don
--- On Tue, 3/24/09, John Cumins wrote:
From: John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
Date: Tuesday, March 24, 2009, 8:56 AM
Congrats Don.- I am sure your inspection will go off with out a hitch.
-
When I get to the doors I will sure come visit you for advise.
-
John G. Cumins
President
-
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
-
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
-
If I was going o do them again,,,, GOD forbid,- I would insert a strength
ening plate aft of the door handle.- Then you'd have something to actuall
y fasten a strap to.
My 2 cents.
Don McDonald
Received the FAA's blessing today with an airworthiness cert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--- On Mon, 3/23/09, linn wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: doors
Date: Monday, March 23, 2009, 7:00 PM
OK, speaking of doors ..... has anyone suffered damage because the wind cau
ght the doors?- Any other concerns with the doors???- Any 'fixes' that
you'd do when you're assembling the doors???- - I'm getting ready to do
mine ..... educate me!!!
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
the winds are 20+, taxi isn't the worry,
> holding the doors when you open them is a bigger concern.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not -----> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
sp;---> ht - - - - ---- List Contribution Web Site; - -
- - - - - - - - &nb; http://==========
=============
-
- - -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matron
ics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution -
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust system torque values - etc - Vetterman 2 stack |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Larry at Vetterman informed me that the bolt that he supplies with the exhaust
kit are stainless steel and have a higher torque value than the Vans bolts. He
said torque to about 150# is fine. With the SS bolts he said the anti seize is
not needed
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235981#235981
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Congrats, wish I was going to Dallas with you. But in due time hehe. 50000
more rivits to go.
Chat soon.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
Passed already... yesterday. then took the FAA inspector, Dilly, out for a
bbq dinner. Great guy, unbelievable that he's a govt employee. Basically
inspected my plane on his own time. Now for finishing my flight training.
Headed to Dallas this weekend for RV10 training and the hp endorcement with
Alex. The ducks are lining up!
Sure, come on up anytime.
Don
--- On Tue, 3/24/09, John Cumins wrote:
From: John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
Date: Tuesday, March 24, 2009, 8:56 AM
Congrats Don. I am sure your inspection will go off with out a hitch.
When I get to the doors I will sure come visit you for advise.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
If I was going o do them again,,,, GOD forbid, I would insert a
strengthening plate aft of the door handle. Then you'd have something to
actually fasten a strap to.
My 2 cents.
Don McDonald
Received the FAA's blessing today with an airworthiness
cert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--- On Mon, 3/23/09, linn wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: doors
Date: Monday, March 23, 2009, 7:00 PM
<http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
OK, speaking of doors ..... has anyone suffered damage because the wind
caught the doors? Any other concerns with the doors??? Any 'fixes' that
you'd do when you're assembling the doors??? I'm getting ready to do mine
..... educate me!!!
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
<http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Tim@myrv10.com>
Tim(at)myrv10.com> When the winds are 20+, taxi isn't the worry,
> holding the doors when you open them is a bigger concern.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not --> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
sp; --> <http://forums.matronics.com/> ht - List Contribution
Web Site; &nb; <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://=======================
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust system torque values - etc - Vetterman 2 stack |
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
So, the question is before the group... What are the Pros and the Cons of u
sing Copper Loctite with the improved S. steel fasteners?
John Cox
From: AirMike
Sent: Tue 3/24/2009 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust system torque values - etc - Vetterman 2 st
ack
Larry at Vetterman informed me that the bolt that he supplies with the exha
ust kit are stainless steel and have a higher torque value than the Vans bo
lts. He said torque to about 150# is fine. With the SS bolts he said the an
ti seize is not needed
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235981#235981
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baggage Area & Door Straps |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage area.... I know all
of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in that area, but is there a structural
limit.... assuming that whatever weight you put back there keeps you in
an ok situation as far as weight and balance.
Also, has anyone found a source for a decent strap to fasten to the door to not
only use to pull the doors down, but also pull them fully closed.
Thanks
Don McDonald
#40636
Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Area & Door Straps |
I think you would have a c/g issue causing the tail to hit the ground long
before there is a structural issue.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Area & Door Straps
Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage area.... I
know all of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in that area, but is
there a structural limit.... assuming that whatever weight you put back
there keeps you in an ok situation as far as weight and balance.
Also, has anyone found a source for a decent strap to fasten to the door to
not only use to pull the doors down, but also pull them fully closed.
Thanks
Don McDonald
#40636
Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
I think vans says the baggage area is rated at 100lbs.
Of course, I've sat back there a few times doing work,
so in a NON-flying situation I'm sure it's not a structural
limit. But while flying it would be a CG or perhaps
structural limit. Much more than that and you'd
start to risk tipping it onto it's tail anyway though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
partner14 wrote:
>
>
> Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage
> area.... I know all of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in that
> area, but is there a structural limit.... assuming that whatever
> weight you put back there keeps you in an ok situation as far as
> weight and balance. Also, has anyone found a source for a decent
> strap to fasten to the door to not only use to pull the doors down,
> but also pull them fully closed. Thanks
>
> Don McDonald #40636 Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
>
> -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
I see what you guys are saying, but if you had two 220 pounders in the fron
t seats, with noone in the rear seats, my guess (I'm not at the hanger) is
that if you put 150 pounds in the baggage area, you wouldn't come close to
flipping the plane on it's back, and should still be way within CG limits.
- Not that I'm planning on piling it up or anything!
Don
--- On Tue, 3/24/09, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Area & Door Straps
Date: Tuesday, March 24, 2009, 1:00 PM
I think vans says the baggage area is rated at 100lbs.
Of course, I've sat back there a few times doing work,
so in a NON-flying situation I'm sure it's not a structural
limit.- But while flying it would be a CG or perhaps
structural limit.- Much more than that and you'd
start to risk tipping it onto it's tail anyway though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
partner14 wrote:
>
>
> Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage
> area.... I know all of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in that
> area, but is there a structural limit.... assuming that whatever
> weight you put back there keeps you in an ok situation as far as
> weight and balance. Also, has anyone found a source for a decent
> strap to fasten to the door to not only use to pull the doors down,
> but also pull them fully closed. Thanks
>
> Don McDonald #40636 Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
>
> -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
| From: | "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net> |
Don't forget it's 100 (or 150) lbs times the maximum g-load under flight conditions
that the structure has to support.
Dwight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236028#236028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
>From page two of the weight and balance section of the manual: Baggage
compartment load limit 150lbs. and is determined by the structural limits of
the baggage floor.
I recently re-weighed my 10 after painting and interior were completed.
1701 lbs and a CG of 108.6. This was about 25 lbs. more than I was hoping
for but appears to be about average for the fleet. Looking at many of the
reported weights below 1650 in Dan's table I am thinking many of these are
initial weights sans paint and or interiors. If not, my hat is off to
anyone completing a 10 with paint and interior at under 1650.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 40065 120 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 2:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Area & Door Straps
>
> Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage area.... I
> know all of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in that area, but is
> there a structural limit.... assuming that whatever weight you put back
> there keeps you in an ok situation as far as weight and balance.
> Also, has anyone found a source for a decent strap to fasten to the door
> to not only use to pull the doors down, but also pull them fully closed.
> Thanks
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
> Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of the
airfoil across the chord line.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin L (Ted) French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
I found a couple of good looking dog leashes at our local pet store.
Had them shortened with a small loop at the door end, installed with a
pin to a piece of c channel. Looks good and works well.
Ted
C-FXCS flying
On 24-Mar-09, at 11:55 AM, partner14 wrote:
>
> >
>
> Is there a maximum weight limit on what can go in the baggage
> area.... I know all of us have spent some time in/on/sprawled in
> that area, but is there a structural limit.... assuming that
> whatever weight you put back there keeps you in an ok situation as
> far as weight and balance.
> Also, has anyone found a source for a decent strap to fasten to the
> door to not only use to pull the doors down, but also pull them
> fully closed.
> Thanks
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
> Airworthiness done, flight training not quite
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=235998#235998
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Sorry about the stupid question. Hugo enlightened me. It was a long day.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236069#236069
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
I always liked the way the Columbia has its door strap attached. I will
do something similar on my doors. Probably using a nylon strap, like
that found on luggage. I may wrap the strap in my interior fabric.
Attached is a photo of the Columbia door strap.
Larry Rosen
#356
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
| From: | "BrianNC" <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Space Cadet wrote:
> Don't forget it's 100 (or 150) lbs times the maximum g-load under flight conditions
that the structure has to support.
>
> Dwight
Just what I was going to say. It's when that 150lbs. becomes 300lbs. or greater
under G loads and causes the structure to fail. That's why there is a limitation.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236103#236103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps |
Thanks guys for all your comments.- The FAA inspector thought there shoiu
ld be some limit posted.... and now I'm off to the doggie store to find a l
eash suitable for my door strap.- I'm figuring I can attach a plate to th
e door then attach the strap.
-
I also assume if we were flying at, or close to max gross, or with a few ex
tra bags in the back, that we would fly our aircraft accordingly.... no ste
ep banks, inverted flight, etc.
-
Thanks again, you guys are great.... except you Pascal......... just kiddin
g!
-
Don McDonald
-
Pascal, you making any trips to Spruce in the near future?
--- On Wed, 3/25/09, BrianNC wrote:
From: BrianNC <EMINI2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Baggage Area & Door Straps
Date: Wednesday, March 25, 2009, 8:45 AM
Space Cadet wrote:
> Don't forget it's 100 (or 150) lbs times the maximum g-load under flight
conditions that the structure has to support.-
>
> Dwight
Just what I was going to say. It's when that 150lbs. becomes 300lbs. or gre
ater under G loads and causes the structure to fail. That's why there is a
limitation.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236103#236103
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
John, congratulations on your first flight and an very beautiful aircraft.
=0A=0AWishing you safe, clear and smooth skies.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick P
ulis=0ARV-10 #40299- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___
_____________________________=0AFrom: John Testement <jwt@roadmapscoaching.
com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 23 March, 2009 11:56:16
AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!=0A=0A=0AN311RV took to the ai
r today for an uneventful, and therefore successful, first flight. As every
one else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!=0A-=0AAirborne pho
tos to come.=0AJohn Testement=0AN311RV=0A#40321=0ARichmond , VA=0A=0A=0A
The new Internet Explorer 8 optimised for Yahoo!7: Faster, Safer, Easier
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paul bonner <psbonner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | door ajar wiring diagram |
we have the van's wiring kit for the door ajar warning system but have misp
laced the wiring diagram.
-
does anyone have a link to a source or a copy they can email me?
psbonner(at)yahoo.com
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | door ajar wiring diagram |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Emailed directly to you (4.5MB attachment).
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul bonner
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: door ajar wiring diagram
we have the van's wiring kit for the door ajar warning system but have
misplaced the wiring diagram.
does anyone have a link to a source or a copy they can email me?
psbonner(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate the
device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I have
at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
Well worth the $9
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of the
airfoil across the chord line.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I purchased an electronic level from the aviation department of home depot.
Cost a little under $40 before tax. I though it was well worth it. Used on
tail...flaps....magnetometer placement... made it all a lot easier.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator level
I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate the
device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I have
at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
Well worth the $9
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of the
airfoil across the chord line.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
It's been a while but I think I layed a straight edge across the top
of the elevator and the horizontal stab, in the most consistent
place I could. Then that was zero. From there, at the time, I used
this $4 Dial-gauge angle finder from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
But these days, I found something way cooler....something that is
just my style.
http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
A level app for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
and dirt cheap if you own the device.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate the
> device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I have
> at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
> 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
>
>
> Well worth the $9
>
> Marcus
> 40286
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
>
>
> Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
> travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of the
> airfoil across the chord line.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 tailcone finished
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Ditto... Craftsman Digital Level for me.
Placed it on the elevator and pressed the "0" button. That was now the
starting point. Then I could rotate the elevator to confirm the travel.
Once I finished, I was curious as to why this was such a big deal. I
think it's nearly impossible to mess up the elevator travel. I suppose
it's a good thing to check, but mine were spot-on by .1 of a degree. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator level
I purchased an electronic level from the aviation department of home
depot.
Cost a little under $40 before tax. I though it was well worth it.
Used on tail...flaps....magnetometer placement... made it all a lot
easier.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator level
I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate
the device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one
I have at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeI
d=10
051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
Well worth the $9
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of
the airfoil across the chord line.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
This is also what I used. Works great for leveling the plane when working o
n wheel pants and weight and balance.
Here is a link to the tool: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv
let/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId
=100653598
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
> From: rene(at)felker.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator level
> Date: Thu=2C 26 Mar 2009 09:11:17 -0600
>
>
> I purchased an electronic level from the aviation department of home depo
t.
> Cost a little under $40 before tax. I though it was well worth it. Used o
n
> tail...flaps....magnetometer placement... made it all a lot easier.
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_03200
9
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nav/Strobe Lights |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
GS-Air in Rochester , MN
https://ssl.perfora.net/gs-air.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1549cbab3a82607/shopdata/index.shopscript
nice guy - good prices (1/2 of Whelen) - looks like good quality
Note: Whelen's warranty is only for 6 months
I held off to get my strobes because of this outrageously short warranty, then
I got my stuff from GS-Air. Nice guy - good warranty - reasonable
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236229#236229
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N311RV First Flight! |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Wow = way to go.
any comments on the paint system - looks great
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236230#236230
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Thanks everyone,
I bought the 40$ Ridgid digital level from Home Depot and it worked great.
I installed the elevators and they came out really close.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 tailcone finished
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236231#236231
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
I thought the elevator travel was limited by the stops in the tail of the
fuselage? The elevator horns contacted the stops. I don't
recall having to measure the elevator travel at all with a angle
finder.
I may be wrong about this.
Jim C
N312F - Flying
Olson
It's been a while but I think I
layed a straight edge across the top
of the elevator and the
horizontal stab, in the most consistent
place I could. Then that was
zero.
>From there, at the time, I used
this $4 Dial-gauge angle
finder from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
But these days, I
found something way cooler....something that is
just my style.
http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
A level app for the
iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
and dirt cheap if
you own the device.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message
posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>
> I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves
as you rotate
> the
> device. Easy way to measure moving
parts. Here's a link to the one I
> have
> at Home Depot
Aircraft Supply:
>
>
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
> 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
>
>
> Well worth the $9
>
> Marcus
> 40286
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> To:
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
>
>
> Anyone have a good
reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
> travel? I
can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of
>
the
> airfoil across the chord line.
>
>
--------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed
CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 tailcone finished
> N801VR
reserved
>
>
> Read this topic
online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
>
>
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
Features Navigator to browse
Un/Subscription,
Chat, FAQ,
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
available via the Web Forums!
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generous support!
Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Maybe it's been too long Jim! Before my first flight I created the
following list of alignments and rechecked all. Elevator alignment is
on page 11-6.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Elevator alignments
11-2
Up/Down Travel
11-6
limit stops
11-7
aft tube rod end bearing adjustment
39-10
control stick elevator neutral adjustment
Aileron Alignment
23-7
neutral position
23-8
bellcrank neutral position
23-9
aileron to flap alignment
44-4
control stick aileron neutral adjustment
Elevator trim alignment
11-10
deflection spec & adjustment
Rudder alignment
11-7
limit stops
Control Sticks
39-9
Control stick parallel alignment
Flap Alignment
44-5
Flap full up position alignment
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator level
I thought the elevator travel was limited by the stops in the tail of
the fuselage? The elevator horns contacted the stops. I don't recall
having to measure the elevator travel at all with a angle finder.
I may be wrong about this.
Jim C
N312F - Flying
It's been a while but I think I layed a straight edge across the top
of the elevator and the horizontal stab, in the most consistent
place I could. Then that was zero.
>From there, at the time, I used
this $4 Dial-gauge angle finder from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
But these days, I found something way cooler....something that is
just my style.
http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
A level app for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
and dirt cheap if you own the device.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate
> the
> device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I
> have
> at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
>
>
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeI
d=10
> 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
>
>
> Well worth the $9
>
> Marcus
> 40286
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
>
>
> Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure
elevator
> travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of
> the
> airfoil across the chord line.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 tailcone finished
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
Aw shoot....I was talking trim deflection.
You're right. For elevators I just lined up the horns with the HS.
Tim
On Mar 26, 2009, at 1:45 PM, jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> I thought the elevator travel was limited by the stops in the tail
> of the fuselage? The elevator horns contacted the stops. I don't
> recall having to measure the elevator travel at all with a angle
> finder.
>
> I may be wrong about this.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying
>
>
> It's been a while but I think I layed a straight edge across the top
> of the elevator and the horizontal stab, in the most consistent
> place I could. Then that was zero.
> From there, at the time, I used
> this $4 Dial-gauge angle finder from Harbor Freight.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
>
> Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
>
> But these days, I found something way cooler....something that is
> just my style.
> http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
>
> A level app for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
> and dirt cheap if you own the device.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> >
> > I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you
> rotate
> > the
> > device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I
> > have
> > at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
> >
> > http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
> > 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
> >
> >
> > Well worth the $9
> >
> > Marcus
> > 40286
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
> >
> >
> > Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure
> elevator
> > travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the
> middle of
> > the
> > airfoil across the chord line.
> >
> > --------
> > Cust. #40936
> > A&P, ATP
> > typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> > RV-10 tailcone finished
> > N801VR reserved
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
If I remember correctly. You need to check and adjust elevator travel once
the linkage all the way to the stick is established. I was having my stick,
with infinity grip, hit the panel and thus tried to solve that problem by
adjusting the linkage..so It may have been different to me.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator level
I thought the elevator travel was limited by the stops in the tail of the
fuselage? The elevator horns contacted the stops. I don't recall having to
measure the elevator travel at all with a angle finder.
I may be wrong about this.
Jim C
N312F - Flying
It's been a while but I think I layed a straight edge across the top
of the elevator and the horizontal stab, in the most consistent
place I could. Then that was zero.
>From there, at the time, I used
this $4 Dial-gauge angle finder from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
But these days, I found something way cooler....something that is
just my style.
http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
A level app for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
and dirt cheap if you own the device.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you rotate
> the
> device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I
> have
> at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
>
>
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
> 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
>
>
> Well worth the $9
>
> Marcus
> 40286
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
>
>
> Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure elevator
> travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the middle of
> the
> airfoil across the chord line.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 tailcone finished
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator level |
That is awesome for you to write this up Bob...I can't remember back
that far well anymore but I just followed the plans...
Your write up is a great quick reference!
Tim
On Mar 26, 2009, at 1:57 PM, "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
wrote:
> Maybe it=99s been too long Jim! Before my first flight I
created the
> following list of alignments and rechecked all. Elevator alignment
> is on page 11-6.
>
>
> Bob
>
> N442PM (flying)
>
>
> Elevator alignments
>
>
> 11-2
>
> Up/Down Travel
>
>
> 11-6
>
> limit stops
>
>
> 11-7
>
> aft tube rod end bearing adjustment
>
>
> 39-10
>
> control stick elevator neutral adjustment
>
>
> Aileron Alignment
>
>
> 23-7
>
> neutral position
>
>
> 23-8
>
> bellcrank neutral position
>
>
> 23-9
>
> aileron to flap alignment
>
>
> 44-4
>
> control stick aileron neutral adjustment
>
>
> Elevator trim alignment
>
>
> 11-10
>
> deflection spec & adjustment
>
>
> Rudder alignment
>
>
> 11-7
>
> limit stops
>
>
> Control Sticks
>
>
> 39-9
>
> Control stick parallel alignment
>
>
> Flap Alignment
>
>
> 44-5
>
> Flap full up position alignment
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com
> Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator level
>
>
> I thought the elevator travel was limited by the stops in the tail
> of the fuselage? The elevator horns contacted the stops. I don't
> recall having to measure the elevator travel at all with a angle
> finder.
>
> I may be wrong about this.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying
>
>
> It's been a while but I think I layed a straight edge across the top
> of the elevator and the horizontal stab, in the most consistent
> place I could. Then that was zero.
> >=46rom there, at the time, I used
> this $4 Dial-gauge angle finder from Harbor Freight.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214
>
> Surprisingly it worked pretty good.
>
> But these days, I found something way cooler....something that is
> just my style.
> http://www.teego.com/multilevel.html
>
> A level app for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This thing is super accurate,
> and dirt cheap if you own the device.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> >
> > I used a protractor with a weighted indicator that moves as you
> rotate
> > the
> > device. Easy way to measure moving parts. Here's a link to the one I
> > have
> > at Home Depot Aircraft Supply:
> >
> >
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=
10
> > 051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100165800
> >
> >
> > Well worth the $9
> >
> > Marcus
> > 40286
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:21 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Elevator level
> >
> >
> > Anyone have a good reference point to zero the level to measure
> elevator
> > travel? I can only think of trying to use a ruler across the
> middle of
> > the
> > airfoil across the chord line.
> >
> > --------
> > Cust. #40936
> > A&P, ATP
> > typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> > RV-10 tailcone finished
> > N801VR reserved
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236055#236055
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan & Tania" <etandrews(at)westnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | N311RV First Flight! |
Hi John,
what a fantastic result!! - looks great, nice design and colour also
Evan and Tania Andrews
VH-OSH flying Brisbane, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Monday, 23 March 2009 11:26 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: N311RV First Flight!
N311RV took to the air today for an uneventful, and therefore successful,
first flight. As everyone else says, it flies hands off. What a great plane!
Airborne photos to come.
John Testement
N311RV
#40321
Richmond, VA
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.12010
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.12050
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil lines
(VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor hoses.
What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of '07. My
VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people who got their
FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was right. I sent
back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the proper one. The VA190
takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller exterior nut - it is the wrong
size.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236318#236318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rv-10 Carbon panels |
| From: | "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> |
I was asked to post when carbon panels were available. The panels are
for sale at this time. They are available thru Steinair or Direct from
myself. Pricing is available on Steinair or call 614-834-5227 day or
614-519-4439eve. Price for entire set is $1150.00.
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236317#236317
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carbonrv10_111.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carbonpanel_151.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
sign me up..... what's the lead time.
steve
iflyrv10.com
--------------------------------------------------
From: "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 11:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
> I was asked to post when carbon panels were available. The panels are
> for sale at this time. They are available thru Steinair or Direct from
> myself. Pricing is available on Steinair or call 614-834-5227 day or
> 614-519-4439eve. Price for entire set is $1150.00.
>
> --------
> Build QB RV-10 N829GW
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236317#236317
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/carbonrv10_111.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/carbonpanel_151.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Aviation 37 degree flare fittings should need no sealant.
On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 10:05 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil lines
(VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor hoses.
> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>
> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of '07.
My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people who got
their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was right. I sent
back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the proper one. The VA190
takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller exterior nut - it is the wrong
size.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236318#236318
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
| From: | "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> |
Normal Lead time is 10-12 days. I have one in stock at this time.
Geoff
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236340#236340
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
Geoff,
Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
could send me?
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Torque_Spec_Aluminum_Fittings.pdf
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 7:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil
> lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
> hoses.
> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>
> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of
> '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people
> who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was
> right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
> proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller
> exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236318#236318
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
AirMike,
I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to support
Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about the
same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil
lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
hoses.
> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>
> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of
'07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people
who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was
right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller
exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that
program output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you
price separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I
said before your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality
improvement and pricing.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff,
Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
could send me?
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on $569
of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
That difference in based on the webstore and not the kit credits one would
receive, so there may be an even larger gap.
Van's runs the hoses they have in the kit in their own aircraft. They have
shown no issues thus far, with that said if someone thinks manifold and oil
cooler hoses need the extra firesleeve protection that is money well spent
going with the aircrafthose.com setup.
Here is the breakdown on my numbers:
PHT
Van's price
VA119/ 111417-4S0214 30.76 17
VA-102/ 124J001-4CR0154 68.36 15.50
VA-133/ 124J001-4CR0272 79.12 18.25
VA-138/ 124J001-6CR0140 78.14 63.30
VA-189/ 124J002-6CR0254 104.96 100.50
VA-135/ 124J001-8CR0164 95.68 64.40
VA-190/ 124J001-8CR0270 111.92 97.65
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
total
$568.94 $376.60
Delivery is 2 to 3 days
Van's hoses page:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238176072-388-450&browse=engines&product=hoses
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:42 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
> AirMike,
>
> I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to support
> Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
> instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
> aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about the
> same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil
> lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
> hoses.
>> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>>
>> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of
> '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people
> who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was
> right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
> proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller
> exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
I believe the consoles will be/are available separately from the panel - at
least I've priced them that way!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Cox
>Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:30 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
>
>Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that
>program output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you
>price separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I
>said before your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality
>improvement and pricing.
>
>John Cox
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
>
>Geoff,
>Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
>could send me?
>
>Larry Rosen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
Here are the .DWG file for the panel cut outs
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that
program
output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you price
separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I said
before
your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality improvement and
pricing.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff,
Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
could send me?
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
Geoff
I am totally impressed with your product. I am a long ways from needing one
but when the fuselage is done ready for the panel I will for sure look you
up.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Here are the .DWG file for the panel cut outs
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that program
output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you price
separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I said before
your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality improvement and
pricing.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff,
Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
could send me?
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
Ok here is my 2 cents worth. All hoses fwd of the firewall that transport
flammable liquids must have fire sleeve. I have seen when a fire starts with
out fire sleeve and it is a lot worse then hoses with fire sleeve. And the
additional cost for Teflon hoses with fire sleeve is the best way to go.
There longer live and do not require a time in service change like the
rubber hoses do.
I have seen several rubber hoses break due to people not changing them and
it usually means a off air port landing not a good thing.
My butt and the airplane is worth the difference in Teflon - vs- rubber
hoses and always include fire sleeve on all fluid hoses.
We all will have over $100k invested in our projects why scrimp on something
that has the potential of causing loss of aircraft or loss of life.
That's just plane stupid.
OK That's my 2 cents worth
John Cumins
A&P
Horz stab assy.
N864FN reverved
----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on $569
of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
That difference in based on the webstore and not the kit credits one would
receive, so there may be an even larger gap.
Van's runs the hoses they have in the kit in their own aircraft. They have
shown no issues thus far, with that said if someone thinks manifold and oil
cooler hoses need the extra firesleeve protection that is money well spent
going with the aircrafthose.com setup.
Here is the breakdown on my numbers:
PHT
Van's price
VA119/ 111417-4S0214 30.76 17
VA-102/ 124J001-4CR0154 68.36 15.50
VA-133/ 124J001-4CR0272 79.12 18.25
VA-138/ 124J001-6CR0140 78.14 63.30
VA-189/ 124J002-6CR0254 104.96 100.50
VA-135/ 124J001-8CR0164 95.68 64.40
VA-190/ 124J001-8CR0270 111.92 97.65
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------
total
$568.94 $376.60
Delivery is 2 to 3 days
Van's hoses page:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238176072-388-450&bro
wse=engines&product=hoses
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:42 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
> AirMike,
>
> I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to support
> Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
> instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
> aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about the
> same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and oil
> lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
> hoses.
>> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>>
>> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer of
> '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that people
> who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it was
> right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
> proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a smaller
> exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
Pascal,
I won't dispute your math but in Aug '07 I received a $584.60 credit from
Van's for excluding the hoses in the Firewall Forward kit and then paid
$450 to aircrafthost.com for the better hoses in their RV-10 kit. This
amount excluded the VA-189 hose since this was included with my
TMX-IO-540.
These were the prices then, I guess Van's has reduced the prices on the FWF
kit hoses considerably. IMHO, the kit from aircrafthose.com is still much
better and arguably worth the additional $200.
IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
(VA-119, AN924-4D, ED SPACER, PT 094X156) $55.00
VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 $51.00
VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 $61.00
VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 $83.00
VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" $130.00
VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 $78.50
VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 $126.10
Ya pays your money and ya takes your chances.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
> X-SmarterMail-TotalSpamWeight: 0
>
>
> No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
> the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on
$569
> of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
> That difference in based on the webstore and not the kit credits one
would
> receive, so there may be an even larger gap.
> Van's runs the hoses they have in the kit in their own aircraft. They
have
> shown no issues thus far, with that said if someone thinks manifold and
oil
> cooler hoses need the extra firesleeve protection that is money well
spent
> going with the aircrafthose.com setup.
> Here is the breakdown on my numbers:
>
> PHT
Van's price
>
> VA119/ 111417-4S0214 30.76 17
> VA-102/ 124J001-4CR0154 68.36 15.50
> VA-133/ 124J001-4CR0272 79.12 18.25
> VA-138/ 124J001-6CR0140 78.14 63.30
> VA-189/ 124J002-6CR0254 104.96 100.50
> VA-135/ 124J001-8CR0164 95.68 64.40
> VA-190/ 124J001-8CR0270 111.92 97.65
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------
> total
> $568.94 $376.60
>
> Delivery is 2 to 3 days
>
> Van's hoses page:
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238176072-388-450&bro
wse=engines&product=hoses
>
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:42 AM
> To:
> Subject: re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
> >
> > AirMike,
> >
> > I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to
support
> > Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
> > instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
> > aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about
the
> > same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
> >
> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
> >
> > William
> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> >>
> >> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and
oil
> > lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
> > hoses.
> >> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
> >>
> >> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer
of
> > '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that
people
> > who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it
was
> > right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
> > proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a
smaller
> > exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
> >>
> >> --------
> >> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> >> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you have worked with fuel and oil hoses of both varieties, there is
no comparison. The integral firesleeve are worth it for any hose that
should be firesleeved. One could debate with regard to MP hose. I
don't think there is any debate for fuel or oil hoses. I have the PHT
Parker 124J hoses in my Mooney right now.
On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 2:02 PM, pascal wrote:
>
> No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
> the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on $569
> of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
... Just making sure no one was shocked at the difference in prices is all.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
> Pascal,
>
> I won't dispute your math but in Aug '07 I received a $584.60 credit from
> Van's for excluding the hoses in the Firewall Forward kit and then paid
> $450 to aircrafthost.com for the better hoses in their RV-10 kit. This
> amount excluded the VA-189 hose since this was included with my
> TMX-IO-540.
>
> These were the prices then, I guess Van's has reduced the prices on the
> FWF
> kit hoses considerably. IMHO, the kit from aircrafthose.com is still much
> better and arguably worth the additional $200.
>
> IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
> (VA-119, AN924-4D, ED SPACER, PT 094X156) $55.00
> VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 $51.00
> VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 $61.00
> VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 $83.00
> VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" $130.00
> VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 $78.50
> VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 $126.10
>
> Ya pays your money and ya takes your chances.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>> X-Rcpt-To:
>> X-SmarterMail-TotalSpamWeight: 0
>>
>>
>> No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
>
>> the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on
> $569
>> of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
>> That difference in based on the webstore and not the kit credits one
> would
>> receive, so there may be an even larger gap.
>> Van's runs the hoses they have in the kit in their own aircraft. They
> have
>> shown no issues thus far, with that said if someone thinks manifold and
> oil
>> cooler hoses need the extra firesleeve protection that is money well
> spent
>> going with the aircrafthose.com setup.
>> Here is the breakdown on my numbers:
>>
>> PHT
> Van's price
>>
>> VA119/ 111417-4S0214 30.76 17
>> VA-102/ 124J001-4CR0154 68.36 15.50
>> VA-133/ 124J001-4CR0272 79.12 18.25
>> VA-138/ 124J001-6CR0140 78.14 63.30
>> VA-189/ 124J002-6CR0254 104.96 100.50
>> VA-135/ 124J001-8CR0164 95.68 64.40
>> VA-190/ 124J001-8CR0270 111.92 97.65
>>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
>> total
>> $568.94 $376.60
>>
>> Delivery is 2 to 3 days
>>
>> Van's hoses page:
>>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238176072-388-450&bro
> wse=engines&product=hoses
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
>> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:42 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>>
>> >
>> > AirMike,
>> >
>> > I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to
> support
>> > Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
>> > instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
>> > aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about
> the
>> > same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
>> >
>> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
>> >
>> > William
>> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>> >
>> > -------- Original Message --------
>> >>
>> >> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and
> oil
>> > lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
>> > hoses.
>> >> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>> >>
>> >> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer
> of
>> > '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that
> people
>> > who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it
> was
>> > right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
>> > proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a
> smaller
>> > exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>> >>
>> >> --------
>> >> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>> >> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Geoff, your email bounced... do you have a current email address? Great piece
of work!
Thanks
Frank
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD final assembly
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236446#236446
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ??? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Do we know who makes Van's hose kit and how high quality the assembly
is? When I was buying new hoses for my Mooney to complete install of
fresh engine, the cost difference for all 7 hoses was a net $110 to
get 124J over 124 with firesleeve from PHT with full TSO tagging.
On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 5:11 PM, pascal wrote:
>
> No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
> ... Just making sure no one was shocked at the difference in prices is all.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:47 PM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>
>>
>> Pascal,
>>
>> I won't dispute your math but in Aug '07 I received a $584.60 credit from
>> Van's for excluding the hoses in the Firewall Forward kit and then paid
>> $450 to aircrafthost.com for the better hoses in their RV-10 kit. This
>> amount excluded the VA-189 hose since this was included with my
>> TMX-IO-540.
>>
>> These were the prices then, I guess Van's has reduced the prices on the
>> FWF
>> kit hoses considerably. IMHO, the kit from aircrafthose.com is still much
>> better and arguably worth the additional $200.
>>
>> IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
>> (VA-119, AN924-4D, ED SPACER, PT 094X156) $55.00
>> VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 $51.00
>> VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 $61.00
>> VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 $83.00
>> VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" $130.00
>> VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 $78.50
>> VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 $126.10
>>
>> Ya pays your money and ya takes your chances.
>>
>> William
>> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>>
>> -------- Original Message --------
>>>
>>> X-Rcpt-To:
>>> X-SmarterMail-TotalSpamWeight: 0
>>>
>>>
>>> No disagreement in having the firesleeve hoses, however, just to clarify,
>>
>>> the price gap is very significant when all added up- close to $200 on
>>
>> $569
>>>
>>> of Aircrafthose.com hoses.
>>> That difference in based on the webstore and not the kit credits one
>>
>> would
>>>
>>> receive, so there may be an even larger gap.
>>> Van's runs the hoses they have in the kit in their own aircraft. They
>>
>> have
>>>
>>> shown no issues thus far, with that said if someone thinks manifold and
>>
>> oil
>>>
>>> cooler hoses need the extra firesleeve protection that is money well
>>
>> spent
>>>
>>> going with the aircrafthose.com setup.
>>> Here is the breakdown on my numbers:
>>>
>>> PHT
>>
>> Van's price
>>>
>>> VA119/ 111417-4S0214 30.76 17
>>> VA-102/ 124J001-4CR0154 68.36 15.50
>>> VA-133/ 124J001-4CR0272 79.12 18.25
>>> VA-138/ 124J001-6CR0140 78.14 63.30
>>> VA-189/ 124J002-6CR0254 104.96 100.50
>>> VA-135/ 124J001-8CR0164 95.68 64.40
>>> VA-190/ 124J001-8CR0270 111.92 97.65
>>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> --------------
>>>
>>> total
>>> $568.94 $376.60
>>>
>>> Delivery is 2 to 3 days
>>>
>>> Van's hoses page:
>>>
>>
>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238176072-388-450&bro
>> wse=engines&product=hoses
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:42 AM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: re: RV10-List: Fuel & Oil line torque values - help ???
>>>
>>> >
>>> > AirMike,
>>> >
>>> > I've had the below page up since before 2007 and while I love to
>>
>> support
>>>
>>> > Vans, builder should EXCLUDE all the hoses from the Vans FWF kit and
>>> > instead order the all Teflon hose kit with integral fire-sleeve from
>>> > aircrafthose.com. You get much better hoses for less than or about
>>
>> the
>>>
>>> > same price as the non fire-sleeve hoses in the Vans kit.
>>> >
>>> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/20Engine/hose.html
>>> >
>>> > William
>>> > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>>> >
>>> > -------- Original Message --------
>>> >>
>>> >> I was told to use a high temp permatex thread sealer on the fuel and
>>
>> oil
>>>
>>> > lines (VA190, VA135 etc) to the oil cooler and fuel pressure monitor
>>> > hoses.
>>> >> What are the torque values on these aeroquip hoses (fuel & oil)????
>>> >>
>>> >> Also - Alert note......................I got my FWF kit in the summer
>>
>> of
>>>
>>> > '07. My VA190 hose was of the wrong diameter. I would suggest that
>>
>> people
>>>
>>> > who got their FWF kits about then check the hose to make sure that it
>>
>> was
>>>
>>> > right. I sent back the defective hose and Gus very kindly sent me the
>>> > proper one. The VA190 takes a 7/8 wrench to turn. If you have a
>>
>> smaller
>>>
>>> > exterior nut - it is the wrong size.
>>> >>
>>> >> --------
>>> >> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>>> >> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Much" <mkmuch(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
What's the best program to use to design or layout your panel - I see a few
on the web but they don't appear to be compatible with auto cad files.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Here are the .DWG file for the panel cut outs
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that program
output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you price
separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I said before
your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality improvement and
pricing.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Geoff,
Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
could send me?
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval. Example, I
have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were excellent
for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in the mag, in
some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and continue to
fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R) mag drop is
recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do the mag
modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug gap is
slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total air gap
being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to ionize
the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A..Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or give him
a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: Generation 3 Ignition
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus
Do the mags still need overhaul at 500 hours? What does the system do
in the case of a mag failure?
I plan to order a stock IO-540 from Van's Aircraft in a few weeks.
Can I send you the mags for conversion?
Is the spark voltage energy increased over standard mag voltage? So
far your system sounds very good however I have not been able to get
much feedback in the field about it. How many systems do you have
flying? Thanks for taking the barrage of questions!!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
Cc: G3i
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be the
closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many benefits
to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product has the
best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run half a
ignition system to still have mag redundancy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the install manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by
> (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com) on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 at 21:56:57
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> name2: Dave
> Last name: Leikam
> address: S79W16389 Woods Rd
> city2: Muskego
> state2: WI
> zip: 53150
> phone number: 414-807-5499
> email2: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair and
others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I saw
your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval. Example,
I have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were excellent
for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in the mag, in
some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and continue to
fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R) mag drop is
recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do the mag
modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug gap is
slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total air gap
being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to ionize
the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A..Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or give him
a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: FormContactus
Do the mags still need overhaul at 500 hours? What does the system
do in the case of a mag failure?
I plan to order a stock IO-540 from Van's Aircraft in a few weeks.
Can I send you the mags for conversion?
Is the spark voltage energy increased over standard mag voltage? So
far your system sounds very good however I have not been able to get
much feedback in the field about it. How many systems do you have
flying? Thanks for taking the barrage of questions!!
Dave
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be
the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many
benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product
has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run
half a ignition system to still have mag redundancy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the install manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair
and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I
saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels |
For a easy to use drag and drop type instrument panel designer, I like
Xpanel <http://www.xpanelsoftware.com/>. They have a free web based
tool with only basic functions. The desk top version allows importing
avionics that are not in the database along with creating new panel
templates.
To get more precision use a drawing package like visio, autocad, etc.
Larry
Mike Much wrote:
>
> What's the best program to use to design or layout your panel - I see
> a few on the web but they don't appear to be compatible with auto cad
> files.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff Combs"
>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 3:13 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
>
> Here are the .DWG file for the panel cut outs
>
> Geoff Combs
> President
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
> Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:30 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
>
> Geoff you mentioned you did it in Solidworks. Will you allow that
> program
> output to be printed for placement of other devices? Will you price
> separately the console and lower unit for Old Men who cry? As I said
> before
> your price was dead on. I love the competition, quality improvement and
> pricing.
>
> John Cox
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:56 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
>
>
> Geoff,
> Do you have a drawing of the panel, preferably an autocad dwg, that you
> could send me?
>
> Larry Rosen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV-10 Interior Handles |
=0A=0AHi there fellow builders,-I've-just taken delivery of my aftermar
ket interior door handles from David Nellis (davidnellis691(at)comcast.net) an
d they look and feel just great.=0A-=0AThese handles are quality, CNC fab
ricated products that are-second to none, making them-a far cry from th
e standard handles.=0A-=0ATo finish them off,-I had the locking buttons
anodised red (before I supplied the parts to David, however in hindsight I
suggest that you do this after you receive them back, as the buttons need
to be modified slightly-to facilitate installation into the new handle).
=0A-=0AThese-handles are a professional and quality-product-that wi
ll significantly enhance your build, coupled with the fact that-=0ADavid
is great to deal with (especially from several thousand kilometres away); r
esponds to emails promptly; answers all-questions thoroughly; and most im
portantly,-delivers on his promises by turning-around your order in qui
ck time.=0A-=0AIf you decide to purchase these handles, all you need to d
o is to send your assembled door hardware and handles (don't need to attach
these to the hardware)-to David (minus the rack gears) and he does the h
ard yards by retrofitting-his replacement handles onto your existing hard
ware.=0A-=0ADave's handles-retail for US$175 (plus $10-freight for yo
u lucky US folks, a little more to down-under) and are value for money when
you see the quality of the-finished product.=0A-=0ACheck out the attac
hed photos and contact David if you're interested.- Wishing you all safe
skies.=0A-=0ARegards=0A-=0A-=0APATRICK PULIS=0ARV-10 #40299-- VH-
XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A-=0A_____________________________
___=0AEnjoy a better web experience. Upgrade to the new Internet Explorer 8
optimised for Yahoo!7. Get it now..=0A=0A=0A Yahoo!7 recommends that
you update your browser to the new Internet Explorer 8.Get it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket-List: Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello John,
The total mag height should not be increased, the coil stud terminal is
.500". Usally the height of the ignition harness or p-leads looming
around is the problem.
Are your Bendix 20-series or 1200 's mags, if there 20-series do they
have the flat top steel cover? I've attached a pic of Larry Vetterman's
flat top mag installed with the coil terminal stud. If you go to the
www.g3ignition.com a look @ the G3i pdf install manual, there are more
examples and mods.
The G3i system will eliminate the shower of sparks. It will receive the
retard contacts signal while cranking and will retard/energize both mags
@ start-up. (Drawing # 2 in manual)
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Generation 3 Ignition
Dear Thomas,
I have been following the string of communication on Rocket List...
I'm interested in adding your system.
My Rocket is equipped with non-impulse type mags and Bendix "Shower of
Sparks" ignition. Also, does your mod increase mag depth in any way ?
I have minimum space between mag (head and wiring) and the firewall.
Thanks for any info you might give.
In a message dated 3/28/2009 6:06:56 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mail(at)g3ignition.com writes:
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval.
Example, I have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were
excellent for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in
the mag, in some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and
continue to fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R)
mag drop is recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do
the mag modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug
gap is slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total
air gap being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to
ionize the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A.Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or
give him a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
Made the mistake today of getting weldon on the plexi as glueing in the rea
r windows. I searched the archive without luck. Any ideas how to remove wi
thout affecting the plexi?
Mike Lefever
finishing up cabin top while waiting on finish kit to ship
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Micro-mesh.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Roxanne and Mike
Lefever
Sent: Sun 3/29/2009 2:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Removing Weldon
Made the mistake today of getting weldon on the plexi as glueing in the
rear windows. I searched the archive without luck. Any ideas how to
remove without affecting the plexi?
Mike Lefever
finishing up cabin top while waiting on finish kit to ship
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing Weldon |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
I had some run off of weldon on the inside of the plexi on the first window I installed.
I tried several different polishing systems to get it off but really
wasn't happy with the result in such a high visibility area. The glass still
had a haze to it. I finally bit the bullet and ordered a replacement plexiglas
window.
5 months down the road on the build and I'm really glad I did a complete replacement.
No second guessing if it could have been done better. And I knew how not
to do the window.
Hint-be very careful that the masking tape is tightly sealed so you don't get any
weldon seeping under it. I found the 3m auto detailing tape from an auto body
shop much better than any of the painting masking tapes from Home Depot or
equivalent.
Tom H.
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236759#236759
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baggage door lock |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage door on
the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a different
style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062 latch that
ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot lock/latch
work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will just work with
the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition switch, so it didn't
make sense to buy that set from Van's.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door lock |
They are Aircraft Spruce locks.
ACS p/n 11-01600
They are shold in sets of 2 for $26.60
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/igswitches.php>
towards the bottom of the page.
Larry Rosen
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage
> door on the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a
> different style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's
> F-1062 latch that ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the
> Home Depot lock/latch work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a
> lock that will just work with the latch in the kit. Note I'm not
> using the ignition switch, so it didn't make sense to buy that set
> from Van's.
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Weldon |
I used acetone and a lot of rubbing...... Worked for me
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 29, 2009, at 9:10 PM, "tomhanaway"
wrote:
>
> I had some run off of weldon on the inside of the plexi on the first
> window I installed. I tried several different polishing systems to
> get it off but really wasn't happy with the result in such a high
> visibility area. The glass still had a haze to it. I finally bit
> the bullet and ordered a replacement plexiglas window.
> 5 months down the road on the build and I'm really glad I did a
> complete replacement. No second guessing if it could have been done
> better. And I knew how not to do the window.
>
> Hint-be very careful that the masking tape is tightly sealed so you
> don't get any weldon seeping under it. I found the 3m auto
> detailing tape from an auto body shop much better than any of the
> painting masking tapes from Home Depot or equivalent.
>
> Tom H.
> Boynton Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236759#236759
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door lock |
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08fuselage/fuselage34a.html
These work.
Pascal
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door lock
Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage
door on the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a
different style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062
latch that ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot
lock/latch work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will
just work with the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition
switch, so it didn't make sense to buy that set from Van's.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Baggage door lock |
March 10, 2009 - March 30, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ej