RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ek

March 30, 2009 - April 16, 2009



      That's odd as I got my locks from HD also and had no problem putting it in 
      the baggage door.  If you watch for them, you can usually find 3 keyed alik
      e for the baggage and main doors.
      
      Michael
      
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 12:27 PM
Subject: Baggage door lock
Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage door o n the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a different style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062 latch that sh ips with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot lock/latch work , I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will just work with the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition switch, so it didn't ma ke sense to buy that set from Van's. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Nest at Sun n' Fun
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Mar 30, 2009
If someone is planning on a get together site at SnF and/or Osh, I have a "RV-10 Nest" banner that I had made for Copperstate that I would gladly forward to future site hosts. Maybe we can start a tradition. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236893#236893 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Baggage door lock
Date: Mar 31, 2009
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
I used the 2 keyed alike Spruce locks on the baggage door and pilot's door. That left the copilot side door to lock. I did not really want another lock on the RHS, so built an internal 'lock' for the RHS door. A piece of angle with a nut/bolt that prevents retracting the rack. Took 5 minutes to make, is very secure, is easy to insert/remove and there is no way you can open the door from the outside (or inside for that matter). Cheers, Ron ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tuesday, 31 March 2009 4:04 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage door lock That's odd as I got my locks from HD also and had no problem putting it in the baggage door. If you watch for them, you can usually find 3 keyed alike for the baggage and main doors. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door lock Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage door on the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a different style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062 latch that ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot lock/latch work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will just work with the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition switch, so it didn't make sense to buy that set from Van's. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Baggage door lock
Date: Mar 30, 2009
I'll use a tubular key cam lock. I have one on the baggage door of my 8A as I was concerned that a flat key could break off in the lock more easily than a tubular key. For the 10, recommend the MFW-1058 from Fort Lock. Here is a link: http://www.securitybase.com/Web_store/ws400CS.cgi?category=Cam+Locks <http://www.securitybase.com/Web_store/ws400CS.cgi?category=Cam+Locks&no_sea rch=Y> &no_search=Y Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 12:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door lock Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage door on the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a different style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062 latch that ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot lock/latch work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will just work with the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition switch, so it didn't make sense to buy that set from Van's. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2009
Subject: Re: Baggage door lock
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, all, for the advice. Sounds like I'll be placing an order with ACS in the near future. -Rob On Mon, Mar 30, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > Anyone know of a specific model lock that will work with the baggage door > on the RV-10? I bought one at Home Depot yesterday, but it has a different > style latch (thinner and smaller "hole" than the Van's F-1062 latch that > ships with the kit). Before I attempt to make the Home Depot lock/latch > work, I wanted to see if anyone is aware of a lock that will just work with > the latch in the kit. Note I'm not using the ignition switch, so it didn't > make sense to buy that set from Van's. > > Thanks... > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Wings > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com>
Subject: Re: timing advance
Date: Mar 30, 2009
Hello Dave, Well first off, we all know the aircraft engine is of large displacement, which has a very small rpm window of operation, and to top it off also, it has very poor air/fuel atomization with a huge combustion chamber. So, how? Well the fuel economy and extra hp comes from the Multiple Spark Discharge (MSD). When the first firing event of the MSD takes place, a flame front is created. As this flame front is burning in the combustion chamber, there is a swirling turbulence that takes place. Drawing unburned air/fuel mixture passed the spark plugs. This is where the MSD come into play. The second and third firing event then ignites this air/fuel mixture, which creates a quicker complete burn of the air/fuel mixture as the piston passes through TDC. The MSD spark is not hotter and doesn't need to be, that is why we do not use huge spark plug air gaps. As the saying goes, screwing a 75 watt light bulb into a 300 watt socket the bulb is not going to burn any brighter. The others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along with hotter spark. The key word in the sentence is "spark" that's singular. With one spark you need more time to get that complete combustion since it is so slow. The only way is to ramp up (advance) the timing close to the verge of detonation, and also deliver a hotter spark hoping that it will have a better chance (only chance) of ignition. With these timing advances, the cylinder pressures go up tremendously as the piston travels towards and over TDC. This creates more ware on engine internals from these pressures. As for a =BD and =BD mag/electronic advance ignition system.. For example, the electronics are firing @, let's say 35 degrees and the mag is set at 25 degrees. Since the combustion has already started, that mag is now confronted with firing though an incredible amount of cylinder pressure, if it can at all. I have seen mag failure on the =BD and =BD systems. I hope this helps some, these will be some of the topics spoken in great detail @ our booth at AirVenture this year. Sincerely, Thomas S. ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:43 PM Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus timing advance So you are saying there is negligible benefit to advancing timing greater than 25 degrees BTDC below 12,500 pressure altitude and only a 1% advantage above? Where then does the fuel economy and extra hp you see with your system come from? The hotter spark? I am really trying to understand all the different systems out there and yours seems to be the easiest to install, and I like the mag back-up. But the others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along with hotter spark. I'll be frank, I am torn between your system and Electroair. I would use a single mag and the Electroair system. Sell me on yours. Thanks!! Dave ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:18 AM Subject: Re: FormContactus timing advance Hello Dave, The G3i system dose not have a timing advance built in. A timing control module can be added which will give you a adjustable timing window of 15 degrees from base timing angle. We found in flight testing/research working with different timing angles, the benefits of economy and performance of running more than a couple of degrees higher than the stock manufacture timing setting were not all that beneficial below 12K. And less than 1% @ altitudes above 12,500ft and less than 60% power. All performance and economy specs.show are @ the stock engine manufacturer timing angle. Sincerely, Thomas Shpakow ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 11:29 PM Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus Does your system advance timing? Dave ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM Subject: Re: FormContactus Hello Dave, Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run half a ignition system to still have mag redunecy. Its doesn't require back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from 8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out our website on the insall manual or give us a call about our product. We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also. Thank you for you inquiry. Sincerely, Thomas Shpakow Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos Electronic Multiple Spark Technology GENERATION 3 IGNITION 2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130 Englewood, CO. 80110 T 303-781-9449 C 303-906-6846 F 303-806-5120 www.g3ignition.com mail(at)g3ignition.com ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM Subject: FormContactus > hearabout: matronics RV-10 list > question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair and others? > I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I saw your product. > Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 > Submit32: Submit > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Baggage door lock
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 31, 2009
I used the door locks from Steve Dinieri's iflyRV10.com. I just had him send me a third lock keyed the same as the cabin doors. Worked very nicely. Sorry, I don't have a photo. Seems like I took fewer and fewer photo's as I got near finishing! -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237089#237089 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: extra material
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2009
I finished the tailcone and started on the spars. I wanted to practice some .032 dimpling and countersinking but have no extra pieces. I found the left over "trim bundle, emp" Is this extra material for practice???? -------- Cust. #40936 A&P, ATP typed CE-525(s), CE-500 RV-10 tailcone finished N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237229#237229 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Apr 01, 2009
Subject: extra material
It's basically there for whatever you want to use it for. Sometimes they just throw scraps into the crate also. There are times when you will need various pieces for shims and stuff but there is normally plenty extra for "practice". Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 12:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: extra material I finished the tailcone and started on the spars. I wanted to practice some .032 dimpling and countersinking but have no extra pieces. I found the left over "trim bundle, emp" Is this extra material for practice???? -------- Cust. #40936 A&P, ATP typed CE-525(s), CE-500 RV-10 tailcone finished N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237229#237229 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: extra material
Date: Apr 01, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
If you have no 0.032" left and need some, post your address and I will send enough to accomplish your task. Dimpling, Deburring, drilling out errant MS rivets and installing NAS OOPs rivets are valued skills. If you don't have a microstop, you might give that a consideration. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 9:51 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: extra material It's basically there for whatever you want to use it for. Sometimes they just throw scraps into the crate also. There are times when you will need various pieces for shims and stuff but there is normally plenty extra for "practice". Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 12:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: extra material I finished the tailcone and started on the spars. I wanted to practice some .032 dimpling and countersinking but have no extra pieces. I found the left over "trim bundle, emp" Is this extra material for practice???? -------- Cust. #40936 A&P, ATP typed CE-525(s), CE-500 RV-10 tailcone finished N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237229#237229 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels
Date: Mar 30, 2009
Geoff, Dibbs........ pack it up , I'll take one if its still available. I've gotta be the first kid on my block to have one.. steve iflyrv10.com ebomb me direct for payment details -------------------------------------------------- From: "geoff Combs" <g.combs58(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 8:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rv-10 Carbon panels > > Normal Lead time is 10-12 days. I have one in stock at this time. > > Geoff ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: EGT Sensors installation and clocking
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2009
I have the AFS3500 EGT kit. Any suggestions or better yet pictures of the final installed position of the sensors? I was told to install 2" out from the flange on the engine. I am worried about the clocking so that the wire ends do not interfere with the cowling. Any suggestions, comments and pictures appreciated -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237488#237488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: EGT Sensors installation and clocking
Date: Apr 03, 2009
One other thing u have to be careful with is the plug removal, install them as to be able to install and remove the spark plugs. Contact me off list and I can tell you how I did my Saratoga. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 10:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: EGT Sensors installation and clocking I have the AFS3500 EGT kit. Any suggestions or better yet pictures of the final installed position of the sensors? I was told to install 2" out from the flange on the engine. I am worried about the clocking so that the wire ends do not interfere with the cowling. Any suggestions, comments and pictures appreciated -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237488#237488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: EGT Sensors installation and clocking
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Make sure as you set them up you also have your plugs and wires in place so you don't interfere there. If you do that and then clock them as low profile as possible you should be ok. Tim On Apr 3, 2009, at 12:05 AM, "AirMike" wrote: > > I have the AFS3500 EGT kit. Any suggestions or better yet pictures > of the final installed position of the sensors? > > I was told to install 2" out from the flange on the engine. I am > worried about the clocking so that the wire ends do not interfere > with the cowling. > > Any suggestions, comments and pictures appreciated > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237488#237488 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: EGT Sensors installation and clocking
Mike; How soon do you need pics.? I have the same setup. I can pull the cowling this weekend and take a few pics if that would help. Dr Fred call if needed 903 491 5207 cell I'll probably be free from that day job thing after 1 pm central time.. AirMike wrote: > > I have the AFS3500 EGT kit. Any suggestions or better yet pictures of the final installed position of the sensors? > > I was told to install 2" out from the flange on the engine. I am worried about the clocking so that the wire ends do not interfere with the cowling. > > Any suggestions, comments and pictures appreciated > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237488#237488 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: EGT Sensors installation and clocking
Can't remember exactly what distance was recommended (2"-4"?), but I believ e the critical element is to make them all the same.- I think mine are 3" ... Make sure you measure the inside radius of the pipe and make a mark, an d then the outside of the radius of the pipe and make another mark.- Then figure where the sensor needs to be to clear everything (plugs, wires, etc ), and then draw a line between those tow marks.- I kept mine to the insi de thus avoiding the cowl problem. Don McDonald --- On Thu, 4/2/09, AirMike wrote: From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Subject: RV10-List: EGT Sensors installation and clocking Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 10:05 PM I have the AFS3500 EGT kit. Any suggestions or better yet pictures of the f inal installed position of the sensors? I was told to install 2" out from the flange on the engine. I am worried ab out the clocking so that the wire ends do not interfere with the cowling. Any suggestions, comments and pictures appreciated -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237488#237488 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
QB Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 11:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
I don't think you'll get much debate. QB Wings over QB fuselage. The fuselage goes together quicker and is more interesting (i.e. less repetitive work). The fuselage requires less proseal too! (i.e fuel tanks are built in the QB wings) I think a better question to ask is what will be the quality level of the QBs with the new factory? Unfortunately, nobody will know that answer until this summer when they start to ship. I'm doing a standard build of both. bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 2:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Depends on how much you want to build, I would go SB the whole way, as I did, you lose so much of the building experience getting the QB. If you are sold on one or the other the fuselage requires more work than the wings did, the only section in the wings that are a challenge is the fuel tanks and that just requires an attention to detail, if you are meticulous in applying the proseal that section can be fun as well and really no big deal. So if in a rush, get the fusellage QB if not do the SB and enjoy the building process. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? > > > I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. > While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This > question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their > fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go > for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? > > Dave > > -- > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Dave Fritzsche > 40813 > Puyallup, WA > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Stella" <sstella(at)incisaledge.com>
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
I just ordered slow build wings and I'm fine with slow build all the way but it depends on how fast you want to finish. I heard of issues with leaking quickbuild tanks in the past. I don't know if it has been resolved but that might be something to consider. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 2:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I wish I hadn't ordered a QB fuse (Or wings for that matter) last December. I'm feeling like July or August is optimistic at this time. I really wish I had ordered parts only. I'd cancel my order now, but I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. If I cancel, I'm starting over from scratch 5 months late and I might be getting a QB fuse in a few months. A fuse completed to QB status is more than 3-6 months of work for me to do. So it's a catch 22. If I was ordering again, I'd just order the parts. Regardless of wings or fuse. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Dave Fritzsche (Building) [mailto:fritzsch(at)eskimo.com] Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? --> I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Another subject
Date: Apr 03, 2009
We had a Cessna 421 out for a pressurization check the other night when the windscreen blew out. All broken pieces went out into the slip screen and after the in rush pressurized the cabin, there was no blast into the airplane. pilots reported a bit of noise and one felt out for the windscreen and found it gone. They maintained 160Kts back to base and landed. no injuries and I saw the airplane in the hangar awaiting a new windscreen. It appears that if the back of the aircraft had an exit point for the air the drag would have been catastrophic. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Have you had any updates on the QB delivery time? My order is a couple months behind yours. On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Perry, Phil wrote: > > I wish I hadn't ordered a QB fuse (Or wings for that matter) last > December. > > I'm feeling like July or August is optimistic at this time. I really > wish I had ordered parts only. > > I'd cancel my order now, but I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. > If I cancel, I'm starting over from scratch 5 months late and I might be > getting a QB fuse in a few months. A fuse completed to QB status is > more than 3-6 months of work for me to do. So it's a catch 22. > > If I was ordering again, I'd just order the parts. Regardless of wings > or fuse. > > Phil > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Dave, The SB wings are largely repetition - 2 essentially identical parts. Each of them have a lot of ribs. There is nothing at all complex about building the wings - imagine a much larger scale version of the H-stab. Fuel tanks aren't that difficult either, just messy. They're also almost identical to the outboard leading edge assemblies, except for the proseal :) The SB fuselage is a lot more involved - longerons to be bent/twisted, lower forward/aft cabin skins to be rolled around a hardwood form, etc. The fuselage requires a lot more head scratching than the wings. Just depends on why you're considering QB - if it's to avoid complex construction go with the QB fuselage, if it's to avoid a lot of repetitious, mundane type of building then go with QB wings. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 12:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my instrument panel: Trim Servo Controller 2 Fuse Blocks 1 Terminal Strip ARINC Converter Forrest of Ground Tabs Ethernet Hub Have I forgotten anything? Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Jeff, It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather than the subpanel - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS - Potentially a Wx receiver Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my instrument panel: Trim Servo Controller 2 Fuse Blocks 1 Terminal Strip ARINC Converter Forrest of Ground Tabs Ethernet Hub Have I forgotten anything? Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: AFS Advanced Deck EE AFS 3400 EE GNS 430W SL-30 GTX-330 PMA-9000EX TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power Jeff On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > > Jeff, > > It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... > > - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. > - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there > - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather > than the subpanel > - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel > - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS > - Potentially a Wx receiver > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > > Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my > instrument panel: > > Trim Servo Controller > 2 Fuse Blocks > 1 Terminal Strip > ARINC Converter > Forrest of Ground Tabs > Ethernet Hub > > Have I forgotten anything? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Yep, depends on what you got - 2 more maybes - external GPS for GRT if you want belts and suspenders - backup battery for ADI if you want double straps on your suspenders and i'm hiding my GRT EIS behind the panel Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > Jeff, > > It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... > > - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. > - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there > - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather > than the subpanel > - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel > - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS > - Potentially a Wx receiver > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my > instrument panel: > > Trim Servo Controller > 2 Fuse Blocks > 1 Terminal Strip > ARINC Converter > Forrest of Ground Tabs > Ethernet Hub > > Have I forgotten anything? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend?
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Maybe it just comes down to why you are building. Build everything yourself if you can. If you are short on time, because of age or because of "life happening", then consider quick build. I say "consider quick build" because in a perfect world the quick builds would be, well, perfect but we know they have their short comings. Many building starts end with incompletions. If quick builds will make the difference between not finishing and flying a mostly self constructed plane, then the answer is obvious. Roger Flying a most awesome beast! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche (Building) Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 12:25 PM To: RV-10 Matronics Subject: RV10-List: Which Quickbuild Would You Recommend? > I am working on my elevators and thinking about how I want to proceed. While I may go all self built, I want to consider all of my options. This question is mainly for those who are flying or have finished their fuselage. If you had to make a choice of one or the other, would you go for the quickbuild wings or the quickbuild fuselage? Dave -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Air filter cleaning
Date: Apr 03, 2009
What is being used to clean the Vans air filter and re oil it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Air filter cleaning
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Van's web store has the kit - or you can get it from most auto parts stores. K&N Recharge Kit Part Number = EA K&N 99-5050 KIT Price = $7.50 Carl Froehlich From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 8:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Air filter cleaning What is being used to clean the Vans air filter and re oil it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
From: jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Jeff, Advanced Flight Systems is now selling the TruTrack DGFII VSVG with a special load of software in the AP specifically for the AFS EFIS units. The new version 6 EFIS software is all tricked out for the AP too. Jim Combs N312F - Flying (WAY FUN!) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: AFS Advanced Deck EE AFS 3400 EE GNS 430W SL-30 GTX-330 PMA-9000EX TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power Jeff On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > Jeff, > > It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... > > - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. > - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there > - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather > than the subpanel > - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel > - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS > - Potentially a Wx receiver > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > Carpenter > > > Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my > instrument panel: > > Trim Servo Controller > 2 Fuse Blocks > 1 Terminal Strip > ARINC Converter > Forrest of Ground Tabs > Ethernet Hub > > Have I forgotten anything? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > - The RV10-List Email Forum - Features Navigator to browse Un/Subscription, Chat, FAQ, -->
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - available via the Web Forums! http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web Site - generous support! Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Nav antenna diplexer(s). Instrument cooling fan? Ammeter shunt? AFS wx receiver? Ethernet hub? Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> > >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> > >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 03, 2009
Jeff, Bob's right, you will want the manifold pressure sender back there. Possibly also the ammeter shunt. Depending on how many antennas you have, you may need a couple of splitters. If you have two nav antennas and a glideslope antenna, the point is moot. But if you are using a single nav antenna, it's going to get interesting. The SL30 splits its glideslope signal internally, but the 430 does not. So the SL has only one antenna input; the 430 has two: nav and glideslope. I took the single nav signal from the antenna, and split it into two signals with a Comant splitter. One side went into the SL30, which took care of its own glideslope. The other side gets split into nav and glideslope with another Comant splitter for the Garmin. I learned that there are two nav/glideslope splitters--one that goes from nav to nav + glideslope, and one that goes the other way. Get the cheaper one--they're identical and only differentiated for FAA purposes. And pricing... Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: AFS Advanced Deck EE AFS 3400 EE GNS 430W SL-30 GTX-330 PMA-9000EX TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power Jeff On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > > Jeff, > > It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... > > - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. > - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there > - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather > than the subpanel > - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel > - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS > - Potentially a Wx receiver > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > > Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my > instrument panel: > > Trim Servo Controller > 2 Fuse Blocks > 1 Terminal Strip > ARINC Converter > Forrest of Ground Tabs > Ethernet Hub > > Have I forgotten anything? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Air filter cleaning
Date: Apr 03, 2009
We use the K&N products from the auto parts store. The filter is grayish white when all the oil is washed off, then it gets red again after oiling. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Air filter cleaning What is being used to clean the Vans air filter and re oil it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Thanks for this Dave. This was an issue that I have been avoiding but I know is there. I have a single Bob Archer Nav in a wing tip with an SL30 and a 430. My concern is that the Bob Archer in a tip 'seems' like a backup solution but right now it's my one and only. What are others doing Nav-wise? I've read the archive and seen some external installations but I really don't want to stick more external antennas out there if I can help it. Can a split Bob Archer be enough? I'd hate to find that out after assembly. My intent at this point is to try to use the Bob Archer for both units. Then punt if that doesn't work. But I guess I need to invest in a couple of splitters. Thanks again. Dave Saylor wrote: > > Jeff, > > Bob's right, you will want the manifold pressure sender back there. > Possibly also the ammeter shunt. > > Depending on how many antennas you have, you may need a couple of splitters. > > If you have two nav antennas and a glideslope antenna, the point is moot. > But if you are using a single nav antenna, it's going to get interesting. > > The SL30 splits its glideslope signal internally, but the 430 does not. So > the SL has only one antenna input; the 430 has two: nav and glideslope. > > I took the single nav signal from the antenna, and split it into two signals > with a Comant splitter. One side went into the SL30, which took care of its > own glideslope. The other side gets split into nav and glideslope with > another Comant splitter for the Garmin. > > I learned that there are two nav/glideslope splitters--one that goes from > nav to nav + glideslope, and one that goes the other way. Get the cheaper > one--they're identical and only differentiated for FAA purposes. And > pricing... > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > >> >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
If you are planning to do the panel yourself, checkout the Approach FastStack product and service. For a DIY panel, FastStack is like the QB option. You get a fully customized wiring solution for your selection of gear including a customer wiring harness, documentation, and the FastStack box which makes it all work. The box is just an unpowered junction box that makes all the inter-unit connections. Seems real high quality and definitely done with a lot of avionics expertise by Tim Haas. You still end up making all the decisions about what to mount where, putting together a power distribution paln, and doing the power wiring but the inter-box connections are all designed and done for you. Price on the unit and the avionics stack was very right too. Very flexible and knowledgeable service. I haven't finished it yet so I can't actually comment on the final product but it certainly made doing it myself a much faster and I believe a more reliable panel. Very happy so far. Bill "anxious to light the whole thing up" Watson 40605 Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Bill, You can split the existing Archer nav antenna for both radios but it's probably about the same amount of money to just install another Archer nav (in the other wingtip). You'll get the added bonus of not losing signal strength due to splitting of the signal between the radios. Of course, most are using VOR as a backup to GPS and the ILS is very strong anyway... Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237654#237654 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Hey Bob, I'm hoping I can split the one Archer because I have my second Com antenna in the other tip. Indeed, the VOR is a backup and I expect that the ILS will quickly effectively become one with the WAAS setup. Thanks bcondrey wrote: > > Bill, > > You can split the existing Archer nav antenna for both radios but it's probably about the same amount of money to just install another Archer nav (in the other wingtip). You'll get the added bonus of not losing signal strength due to splitting of the signal between the radios. Of course, most are using VOR as a backup to GPS and the ILS is very strong anyway... > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237654#237654 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
I'll have an Archer Nav antenna in each wing tip... already purchased and on the shelf, so it looks like I can forgo the splitters. I've got my fuse blocks and Trim Controller. I'll visit the Radio Shack Aviation Department for the Ethernet Hub. I'm trying to get as much work done as I can before I have to sink the big dollars into the panel. Stein's spent a good chunk of time on the phone with me (and he also stood behind his customers in the great Chelton debacle), so he'll be getting my business. With that in mind, does anyone know the sizes of the following items: ARINC Converter AFS AOA Processor WX Receiver Ammeter Shunt Manifold Pressure Sender One other question comes to mind. When you cut the hole in the sub panel for the radio stack, are you simply creating an opening for the racks to pass through (so the size of the opening is not precise) or will you be supporting the racks back there (and thus need to be very accurate with the size of the opening)? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Thankful for the list.... On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:32 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > > Jeff, > > Bob's right, you will want the manifold pressure sender back there. > Possibly also the ammeter shunt. > > Depending on how many antennas you have, you may need a couple of > splitters. > > If you have two nav antennas and a glideslope antenna, the point is > moot. > But if you are using a single nav antenna, it's going to get > interesting. > > The SL30 splits its glideslope signal internally, but the 430 does > not. So > the SL has only one antenna input; the 430 has two: nav and > glideslope. > > I took the single nav signal from the antenna, and split it into > two signals > with a Comant splitter. One side went into the SL30, which took > care of its > own glideslope. The other side gets split into nav and glideslope > with > another Comant splitter for the Garmin. > > I learned that there are two nav/glideslope splitters--one that > goes from > nav to nav + glideslope, and one that goes the other way. Get the > cheaper > one--they're identical and only differentiated for FAA purposes. And > pricing... > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Do you have a separate glideslope antenna? You can use one, but the Archer will work for both nav and GS if you split it (430 needs seperate inputs). If your AOA is incorporated into the 3500, there won't be an external box. Your sense lines will plug right into the 3500. If you have the stand-alone system with a separate display, the box is about 4 x 5 x 1. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... I'll have an Archer Nav antenna in each wing tip... already purchased and on the shelf, so it looks like I can forgo the splitters. I've got my fuse blocks and Trim Controller. I'll visit the Radio Shack Aviation Department for the Ethernet Hub. I'm trying to get as much work done as I can before I have to sink the big dollars into the panel. Stein's spent a good chunk of time on the phone with me (and he also stood behind his customers in the great Chelton debacle), so he'll be getting my business. With that in mind, does anyone know the sizes of the following items: ARINC Converter AFS AOA Processor WX Receiver Ammeter Shunt Manifold Pressure Sender One other question comes to mind. When you cut the hole in the sub panel for the radio stack, are you simply creating an opening for the racks to pass through (so the size of the opening is not precise) or will you be supporting the racks back there (and thus need to be very accurate with the size of the opening)? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Thankful for the list.... On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:32 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > > Jeff, > > Bob's right, you will want the manifold pressure sender back there. > Possibly also the ammeter shunt. > > Depending on how many antennas you have, you may need a couple of > splitters. > > If you have two nav antennas and a glideslope antenna, the point is > moot. > But if you are using a single nav antenna, it's going to get > interesting. > > The SL30 splits its glideslope signal internally, but the 430 does > not. So the SL has only one antenna input; the 430 has two: nav and > glideslope. > > I took the single nav signal from the antenna, and split it into two > signals with a Comant splitter. One side went into the SL30, which > took care of its own glideslope. The other side gets split into nav > and glideslope with another Comant splitter for the Garmin. > > I learned that there are two nav/glideslope splitters--one that goes > from nav to nav + glideslope, and one that goes the other way. Get > the cheaper one--they're identical and only differentiated for FAA > purposes. And pricing... > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > >> >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Bill, That's the setup I have. The only issue I have seen is that when the fuselage is between the airport and the antenna, like when turning inbound, the GS/LOC blanks out momentarily. I notice this when flying away from KSNS, then turning 180 degrees to intercept the localizer. The GS/LOC flags for a few seconds until the wingtip comes out from behind the fuselage. I haven't done enough actual IFR to know if this is a big issue but in VFR conditions it doesn't seem to matter much, especially since I know it will come right back. I grouned my Archer antenna to the wingtip attach screws. I understand that anything less is sketchy. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 6:44 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... --> Thanks for this Dave. This was an issue that I have been avoiding but I know is there. I have a single Bob Archer Nav in a wing tip with an SL30 and a 430. My concern is that the Bob Archer in a tip 'seems' like a backup solution but right now it's my one and only. What are others doing Nav-wise? I've read the archive and seen some external installations but I really don't want to stick more external antennas out there if I can help it. Can a split Bob Archer be enough? I'd hate to find that out after assembly. My intent at this point is to try to use the Bob Archer for both units. Then punt if that doesn't work. But I guess I need to invest in a couple of splitters. Thanks again. Dave Saylor wrote: > > Jeff, > > Bob's right, you will want the manifold pressure sender back there. > Possibly also the ammeter shunt. > > Depending on how many antennas you have, you may need a couple of splitters. > > If you have two nav antennas and a glideslope antenna, the point is moot. > But if you are using a single nav antenna, it's going to get interesting. > > The SL30 splits its glideslope signal internally, but the 430 does not. So > the SL has only one antenna input; the 430 has two: nav and glideslope. > > I took the single nav signal from the antenna, and split it into two signals > with a Comant splitter. One side went into the SL30, which took care of its > own glideslope. The other side gets split into nav and glideslope with > another Comant splitter for the Garmin. > > I learned that there are two nav/glideslope splitters--one that goes from > nav to nav + glideslope, and one that goes the other way. Get the cheaper > one--they're identical and only differentiated for FAA purposes. And > pricing... > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter > Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > AFS 3400 EE > GNS 430W > SL-30 > GTX-330 > PMA-9000EX > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > Jeff > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > >> >> >> Jeff, >> >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >> >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather >> than the subpanel >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >> - Potentially a Wx receiver >> >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >> >> >> >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >> instrument panel: >> >> Trim Servo Controller >> 2 Fuse Blocks >> 1 Terminal Strip >> ARINC Converter >> Forrest of Ground Tabs >> Ethernet Hub >> >> Have I forgotten anything? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <SAOLESEN(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Missing parts on repaired prop?
Date: Apr 04, 2009
I had a leaky seal on my Hartzell prop at about 50 hours and took it in for repair. After a week, I got it back yesterday and was reinstalling it this morning when I noticed that there were parts on one side of the hub where the bade is attached that weren't on the other side. One side has 2 screws, an aluminum piece, and safety wire going across the hub at both the leading and trailing edges of the prop blade. The other side has nothing. It would seem that for rotational balance these parts should be on both sides of the hub. If this prop had not just come back from repair I would not be suspicious that something was forgotten. Would someone who has a prop sitting in a box at home look and see if these parts should be on both sides of the hub? I have enclosed pictures of what I am concerned about. The prop shop said that there is some guidance from Hartzell on props that have been sitting in a box for a long time. Mine sat in a box for about 2 years and that may have the cause of the early leakage from the seals. Thanks Sheldon Olesen N475PV 53.6 hours

      
      
      
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Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Re cutting holes in the sub panel, on the advice of Stein I cut mine so that the bottom side of long components would be supported by the lower edge of the sub panel hole. He recommended leaving about a 1-1.5" gap on each side of components that pass through the sub panel so you can pull through cables and d-sub connectors. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237694#237694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Missing parts on repaired prop?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 04, 2009
I believe you are looking at weights put on for static balance. On some props I've seen stacks of these. So one side only would be normal. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237696#237696 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Where can we look at the Approach Fastback........been searching without lo ok on the internet. > Date: Sat=2C 4 Apr 2009 09:57:07 -0400 > From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > rr.com> > > If you are planning to do the panel yourself=2C checkout the Approach > FastStack product and service. For a DIY panel=2C FastStack is like the > QB option. > > You get a fully customized wiring solution for your selection of gear > including a customer wiring harness=2C documentation=2C and the FastStack > box which makes it all work. The box is just an unpowered junction box > that makes all the inter-unit connections. Seems real high quality and > definitely done with a lot of avionics expertise by Tim Haas. > > You still end up making all the decisions about what to mount where=2C > putting together a power distribution paln=2C and doing the power wiring > but the inter-box connections are all designed and done for you. Price > on the unit and the avionics stack was very right too. Very flexible > and knowledgeable service. > > I haven't finished it yet so I can't actually comment on the final > product but it certainly made doing it myself a much faster and I > believe a more reliable panel. Very happy so far. > > Bill "anxious to light the whole thing up" Watson > 40605 > > > Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > > > Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: > > > > AFS Advanced Deck EE > > AFS 3400 EE > > GNS 430W > > SL-30 > > GTX-330 > > PMA-9000EX > > TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV > > > > The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power > > > > Jeff > > > > On Apr 3=2C 2009=2C at 4:31 PM=2C Condrey=2C Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> Jeff=2C > >> > >> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... > >> > >> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. > >> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there > >> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall rather > >> than the subpanel > >> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel > >> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS > >> - Potentially a Wx receiver > >> > >> Bob > >> N442PM (flying) > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff > >> Carpenter > >> Sent: Friday=2C April 03=2C 2009 5:17 PM > >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > >> m> > >> > >> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my > >> instrument panel: > >> > >> Trim Servo Controller > >> 2 Fuse Blocks > >> 1 Terminal Strip > >> ARINC Converter > >> Forrest of Ground Tabs > >> Ethernet Hub > >> > >> Have I forgotten anything? > >> > >> Jeff Carpenter > >> 40304 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 FWF Kit Mistral Engines
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Apr 04, 2009
I just wanted to share a couple pictures of the FWF Kit for the RV-10 from Mistral engines. I took the pictures today at the Aero Exhibition in Germany. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237699#237699 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04284_104.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04283_168.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04282_123.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04281_128.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04280_124.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote: > Where can we look at the Approach Fastback........been searching without > look on the internet. Hi Mike, It is Approach Fast Stack. Their website is at: http://approachfaststack.com/ fyi -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 FWF Kit Mistral Engines
Date: Apr 04, 2009
It brings back memories. At OSH 2004(5)? they offered me a $5000 discount on their engine if I agreed to bring a flying prototype to OSH the next year. Being a greybeard I was more than just a little wary. My building partner visited his parents in Switzerland that year and visited the Mistral factory. He talked with the engineers. They acknowledged that the engine could not fly for more than 30 minutes without overheating. Needless to say we passed on their "generous offer". They were looking for a sucker to develop /engineer all the firewall forward for the RV10 for $5000. I am sure that it cost them considerably more to do the job correctly. That's if it is done correctly now. As we don't see a flying aircraft but a mock up of the firewall forward -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 12:16 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 FWF Kit Mistral Engines --> I just wanted to share a couple pictures of the FWF Kit for the RV-10 from Mistral engines. I took the pictures today at the Aero Exhibition in Germany. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237699#237699 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04284_104.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04283_168.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04282_123.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04281_128.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04280_124.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Another subject
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Jets suck, props blow....... [Wink] -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237704#237704 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Nitrogen tank
Date: Apr 04, 2009
There was a thread some time ago about using nitrogen in tires. My intent is not to debate the pros or cons again, but I stumbled across a nitrogen tire inflation kit at Harbor Freight in case anyone is interested. Here's the link: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=97063&r=445 9_392269 Marcus 40286 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
da...thanks > Date: Sat=2C 4 Apr 2009 15:20:17 -0400 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... > From: deej(at)deej.net > > > Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote: > > Where can we look at the Approach Fastback........been searching withou t > > look on the internet. > > Hi Mike=2C > It is Approach Fast Stack. Their website is at: > http://approachfaststack.com/ > > fyi > > -Dj > > > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV > Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ > http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/ > > "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an > airplane." --Dave Prizio=2C 30 Aug 2005 > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Missing parts on repaired prop?
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Sheldon What your talking about are weights that balance the prop. All props are balanced statically at the prop shop. They add or remove the thin weights and the base of the prop blades. This is very common. Once you are flying and have about 200 hours on the engine and prop combo you should have them dynamically balanced by some one who knows how to do it correctly. It is way worth the cost. John G. Cumins 40864 Starting elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 9:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: Missing parts on repaired prop? I had a leaky seal on my Hartzell prop at about 50 hours and took it in for repair. After a week, I got it back yesterday and was reinstalling it this morning when I noticed that there were parts on one side of the hub where the bade is attached that weren't on the other side. One side has 2 screws, an aluminum piece, and safety wire going across the hub at both the leading and trailing edges of the prop blade. The other side has nothing. It would seem that for rotational balance these parts should be on both sides of the hub. If this prop had not just come back from repair I would not be suspicious that something was forgotten. Would someone who has a prop sitting in a box at home look and see if these parts should be on both sides of the hub? I have enclosed pictures of what I am concerned about. The prop shop said that there is some guidance from Hartzell on props that have been sitting in a box for a long time. Mine sat in a box for about 2 years and that may have the cause of the early leakage from the seals. Thanks Sheldon Olesen N475PV 53.6 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 04, 2009
The best thing about Fast Srack, IMHO, is the flexibility and expandability, especially if you want to add on down the road. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 4, 2009, at 9:57 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > > If you are planning to do the panel yourself, checkout the Approach > FastStack product and service. For a DIY panel, FastStack is like > the QB option. > You get a fully customized wiring solution for your selection of > gear including a customer wiring harness, documentation, and the > FastStack box which makes it all work. The box is just an unpowered > junction box that makes all the inter-unit connections. Seems real > high quality and definitely done with a lot of avionics expertise by > Tim Haas. > > You still end up making all the decisions about what to mount where, > putting together a power distribution paln, and doing the power > wiring but the inter-box connections are all designed and done for > you. Price on the unit and the avionics stack was very right too. > Very flexible and knowledgeable service. > > I haven't finished it yet so I can't actually comment on the final > product but it certainly made doing it myself a much faster and I > believe a more reliable panel. Very happy so far. > > Bill "anxious to light the whole thing up" Watson > 40605 > > > Jeff Carpenter wrote: >> > >> >> Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: >> >> AFS Advanced Deck EE >> AFS 3400 EE >> GNS 430W >> SL-30 >> GTX-330 >> PMA-9000EX >> TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV >> >> The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power >> >> Jeff >> >> On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> > >>> >>> Jeff, >>> >>> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >>> >>> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >>> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >>> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall >>> rather >>> than the subpanel >>> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >>> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >>> - Potentially a Wx receiver >>> >>> Bob >>> N442PM (flying) >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Carpenter >>> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >>> >>> > >>> >>> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >>> instrument panel: >>> >>> Trim Servo Controller >>> 2 Fuse Blocks >>> 1 Terminal Strip >>> ARINC Converter >>> Forrest of Ground Tabs >>> Ethernet Hub >>> >>> Have I forgotten anything? >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Extra battery
Date: Apr 04, 2009
Anyone mount an extra Odyssey 680 on the firewall? I am planning on using the Piper battery box and mounting it diagonally to pick up two holes on the diagonal stiffener.and creating a couple of aluminum doublers for the other four holes. The holes in the battery box are .29 which means they will have to be bushed for an AN3 or enlarged and bushed for an AN4. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Extra battery
Date: Apr 04, 2009
If you're using a PC-680 battery, why not just buy the install kit for the RV7 or 7A? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 3:31 PM Subject: RV10-List: Extra battery Anyone mount an extra Odyssey 680 on the firewall? I am planning on using the Piper battery box and mounting it diagonally to pick up two holes on the diagonal stiffener.and creating a couple of aluminum doublers for the other four holes. The holes in the battery box are .29 which means they will have to be bushed for an AN3 or enlarged and bushed for an AN4. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Ethernet Hub
Date: Apr 05, 2009
In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys and Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? If not, how do I step the voltage down? Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
GRT recently shipped me a unit to connect my 3 GRT units. It was a bit pricey at $165. I questioned whether I should be able to just go out and find a hub for a better price. They commented that this is an 'industrial' or 'commercial' grade product and that I might have a hard time finding something equivalent. It's a EIBA5100T/R (DIN- rail mount) from Comtemporary Controls. The installation guides says "....hubs are designed for the Building Automation Environment". It has 5 ports, it s 3.5x3.31 by 1". It can be powered by AC 8-24V or DC 10-36V - no setup reuqired www.ccontrols.com Looks good to this builder. Bill Watson 40605 Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to > talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys and > Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? If > not, how do I step the voltage down? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Behind the Panel...
Date: Apr 05, 2009
anyone have the foot print of the AFX WX Receiver? On Apr 3, 2009, at 7:00 PM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > Nav antenna diplexer(s). > Instrument cooling fan? > Ammeter shunt? > AFS wx receiver? > Ethernet hub? > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > 352-427-0285 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 3, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Jeff Carpenter > wrote: > >> >> >> Good point Bob... the general panel plan is this: >> >> AFS Advanced Deck EE >> AFS 3400 EE >> GNS 430W >> SL-30 >> GTX-330 >> PMA-9000EX >> TruTrack DIgiFlight IIVSGV >> >> The Alternator will be the 60 amp Plane Power >> >> Jeff >> >> On Apr 3, 2009, at 4:31 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Jeff, >>> >>> It would help to know what was going in your plane/panel... >>> >>> - If B&C alternator you'll need to put the regulator(s) there. >>> - If GRT EIS you'll need to mount the manifold pressure sensor there >>> - The forest of tabs should be in the aft side of the firewall >>> rather >>> than the subpanel >>> - If you've got an AFS AOA the process will go on the subpanel >>> - potentially an AHRS or GADHRS depending on the EFIS >>> - Potentially a Wx receiver >>> >>> Bob >>> N442PM (flying) >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >>> Carpenter >>> Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 5:17 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Behind the Panel... >>> >>> >>> >>> Here's a list of the electrical items that will be mounted behind my >>> instrument panel: >>> >>> Trim Servo Controller >>> 2 Fuse Blocks >>> 1 Terminal Strip >>> ARINC Converter >>> Forrest of Ground Tabs >>> Ethernet Hub >>> >>> Have I forgotten anything? >>> >>> Jeff Carpenter >>> 40304 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Jeff Carpenter wrote: > In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to talk > to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys and > Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? If not, > how do I step the voltage down? Hi Jeff, If you only have two ethernet devices, you should be able to use an ethernet cross-over cable and have no need for a ethernet hub/switch. If you have 3 or more ethernet devices, you'll need a hub or switch. Here is a link to a typical cross-over cable: <http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812107216> Here are lots more to choose from: <http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N 52810132%201230513960&bop=And&Order=RATING> Here are lots of ethernet switches - One of them will likely run off 12v directly: <http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=30&name=Switches> Does AFS have any recommendations? If you can use a direct cross-over cable, that would be best I think. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Apr 05, 2009
That manufacturer sells online.. EIBA5-100T/R Five-port 10BASE-T/100BASE-TX switching hub, DIN-rail mount $99 (http://www.ccontrols.com/store/unmanaged.shtml#basswitch) -------- RV-7A N777TY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237827#237827 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
A search through the AFS support forum turn up the recommendation of a Linksys SD205 5 port switch. It is 12 volts and costs about $35. Here is the spec sheet. <http://www-qa.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheadername1=Content-Type&blobheadername2=Content-Disposition&blobheadervalue1=application%2Fpdf&blobheadervalue2=inline%3B+filename%3Dsd205_ds%252C7.pdf&blobkey=id&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1193762395327&ssbinary=true&lid=0620947063B04> Larry Rosen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
Date: Apr 05, 2009
AFS doesn't provide for this? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Ethernet Hub > > In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to > talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys > and Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? > If not, how do I step the voltage down? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
I have a 3500 and a 3400. They just hooked together with a cable. No need for a hub. I'd call AFS before I bought a hub. Fred. Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to > talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys and > Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? If > not, how do I step the voltage down? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > N410CF > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub
You're welcome! ---- N777TY wrote: > > That manufacturer sells online.. > > EIBA5-100T/R Five-port 10BASE-T/100BASE-TX switching hub, DIN-rail mount $99 > > > > (http://www.ccontrols.com/store/unmanaged.shtml#basswitch) > > -------- > RV-7A > N777TY > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237827#237827 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Extra battery
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Apr 06, 2009
John, I'm in the middle of spraying. Mike Loehle's paint on m y -10', how's it holding up on yours? Also what gap a re those flying using between the wing gap faring and t he fuselage I need to final fit the edge prior to pai nting them Rick Sked 40185 Can taste the flying..or maybe its polyurethane! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 21:23:23 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Extra battery ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Extra battery
Any pictures of the set-up please guys.=0A=0APat=0ASouth Oz=0A=0ADo Not Arc hive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Miller John <ge ngrumpy(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, 6 April, 200 9 11:53:23 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Extra battery=0A=0AI'm using 2 of t he 680s, both mounted aft of the bulkhead in 2 of Van's battery boxes (2 ba tt busses). =0A=0AWorks like a champ.=0A=0Agrumpy=0AN184JM=0A=0Ado not arch ive=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Apr 4, 2009, at 11:51 PM, Bob and Karen Brown wrote:=0A =0AIf you=99re using a PC-680 battery, why not just buy the install k it for the RV7 or 7A?=0A=C2-=0AFrom:=C2-owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com=C2-[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]=C2-On Behalf Of =C2-David McNeill=0ASent:=C2-Saturday, April 04, 2009 3:31 PM=0ATo:=C2 -rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject:=C2-RV10-List: Extra battery=0A=0AAn yone mount an extra Odyssey 680 on the firewall? I am planning on using the Piper battery box and mounting it diagonally to pick up two holes on the d iagonal stiffener.and creating a couple of aluminum doublers for the other four holes. The holes in the battery box are .29 which means they will have to be bushed for an AN3 or enlarged and bushed for an AN4.=0A =C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahttp://forums.matro nics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.mat ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List text-decoration: underline; ">http://forum s.matronics.com lor: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matron ======================== _ ===================== =0A=0A =0A Enjoy a better web experience. Upgrade to the new Internet Explore r 8 optimised for Yahoo!7. Get it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2009
Subject: Re: Extra battery
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
What does Van's have in 410RV? It probably does more starts, especially hot starts than any other -10 is likely to see. IIRC the plans call for RG25 battery? On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 1:24 AM, Rene wrote: > David, I have thought about going to a single 680 on the firewall. My C G > is aft and 4 adults is tough with the CG that way. You say cranking on o ne > 680 can be slow=85=85.how often to you crank with 1 batt. Would it be wo rth me > testing the single battery config? > > > Rene' > > 801-721-6080 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Ethernet Hub
Date: Apr 06, 2009
If your just linking 2 ea afs units then you can just use a Ethernet Cross over cable and will not need a hub. If you want to connect more then 2 devices then you will need a Ethernet switch/hib. If you want more info on a cross over cable shhot me a e-mail off list and I will assist you. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 8:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Ethernet Hub In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys and Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? If not, how do I step the voltage down? Jeff Carpenter 40304 N410CF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2009
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub - Crossover Cable
10/100 Base T CrossOver Cable Plug Code Plug Code 1 T2--------\ /------1 T2 2 R2-\ X /-2 R2 3 T3--\-----/ \---/--3 T3 4 nc \ /-------/ 4 NC 5 nc x 5 NC 6 R3---/ \-----------6 R3 7 nc 7 NC 8 nc 8 NC 10/100 Base T Cable COLOR CODES FOR STANDARD WIRING Plug Color 1 Orange-White 2 Orange 3 Green-White 4 Blue 5 Blue-White 6 Green 7 Brown-WHite 8 Brown -Jim 40384 John Cumins wrote: > >If your just linking 2 ea afs units then you can just use a Ethernet Cross >over cable and will not need a hub. If you want to connect more then 2 >devices then you will need a Ethernet switch/hib. > >If you want more info on a cross over cable shhot me a e-mail off list and I >will assist you. > >John G. Cumins >President > >JC'S Interactive Systems >2499 B1 Martin Rd >Fairfield Ca 94533 >707-425-7100 >707-425-7576 Fax > >Your Total Technology Solution Provider >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter >Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 8:25 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Ethernet Hub > > >In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units to >talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common Linksys >and Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a 12V hub? >If not, how do I step the voltage down? > >Jeff Carpenter >40304 >N410CF > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub - Crossover Cable
Date: Apr 06, 2009
Hi All, The cross over cable works if you're just connecting two AFS units together. When you add the WX Receiver in to the mix, then you need the hub. I won't have that initially (unless business gets a whole lot better fast), but I don want to make provisions for the space it needs as well as the power. Jeff Carpenter On Apr 6, 2009, at 12:50 PM, James Hein wrote: > > 10/100 Base T CrossOver Cable > > Plug Code Plug Code > 1 T2--------\ /------1 T2 > 2 R2-\ X /-2 R2 > 3 T3--\-----/ \---/--3 T3 4 nc \ /-------/ 4 NC > 5 nc x 5 NC > 6 R3---/ \-----------6 R3 > 7 nc 7 NC > 8 nc 8 NC > > > 10/100 Base T Cable > > COLOR CODES FOR STANDARD WIRING > Plug Color > 1 Orange-White > 2 Orange > 3 Green-White > 4 Blue > 5 Blue-White > 6 Green > 7 Brown-WHite > 8 Brown > > > -Jim 40384 > > > John Cumins wrote: > >> >> If your just linking 2 ea afs units then you can just use a >> Ethernet Cross >> over cable and will not need a hub. If you want to connect more >> then 2 >> devices then you will need a Ethernet switch/hib. >> >> If you want more info on a cross over cable shhot me a e-mail off >> list and I >> will assist you. >> >> John G. Cumins >> President >> JC'S Interactive Systems >> 2499 B1 Martin Rd >> Fairfield Ca 94533 >> 707-425-7100 >> 707-425-7576 Fax >> Your Total Technology Solution Provider >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff >> Carpenter >> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 8:25 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Ethernet Hub >> >> >> >> In my quest to find a small ethernet hub (for the two AFS units >> to talk to each other) yesterday I discovered that the common >> Linksys and Netgear models are 7.5V. Should I be able to find a >> 12V hub? If not, how do I step the voltage down? >> >> Jeff Carpenter >> 40304 >> N410CF >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2009
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Ethernet Hub - Crossover Cable
Hmm... Looks like I missed a Also, if you do find a way to connect three devices with a cable having only two ends, you'll provide endless hours of laughter to anyone in IT ! Take two: 10/100 Base T CrossOver Cable Plug Code Plug Code 1 T2--------\ /------1 T2 2 R2-\ X /-2 R2 3 T3--\-----/ \---/--3 T3 4 nc \ /-------/ 4 NC 5 nc x 5 NC 6 R3---/ \-----------6 R3 7 nc 7 NC 8 nc 8 NC 10/100 Base T Cable COLOR CODES FOR STANDARD WIRING Plug Color 1 Orange-White 2 Orange 3 Green-White 4 Blue 5 Blue-White 6 Green 7 Brown-WHite 8 Brown -Jim 40384 (Also now a RedHat Enterprise Linux Certified Engineer!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2009
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
Subject: HF LPHV Question
I am using a Harbor Freight purple LPHV spray gun for priming. I cannot get the spray fan to go beyond 2 to 3 inches. I would like it to be 5 to 6 inches. My compressor is a Campbell Hausfeld VT6271 which is a 3 HP unit with a 26 gallon tank that should provide enough air. Has someone got some experience with this gun and could provide insight on how to set the gun to function properly? Dave Fritzsche -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2009
Subject: Spins
From: jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Odd question: IF anyone has spun a -10, what is the procedure to recover? (1) Neutral stick and opposite rudder to stop spin? (2) Power - Reduce (3) Smooth elevator to level flight (4) Clean Shorts! I don't plan on doing that but wold like to know Thanks, Jim Combs N312F - Flying (Forward not round and round!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Spins
Date: Apr 07, 2009
I believe you have the order wrong. and I don't intend to spin the 10 either. power idle, neutral ailerons, opposite rudder, when (if) the spin stops, forward stick to break the stall and recover gently from the dive. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 5:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Spins Odd question: IF anyone has spun a -10, what is the procedure to recover? (1) Neutral stick and opposite rudder to stop spin? (2) Power - Reduce (3) Smooth elevator to level flight (4) Clean Shorts! I don't plan on doing that but wold like to know Thanks, Jim Combs N312F - Flying (Forward not round and round!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2009
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: HF LPHV Question
Knob on left side of gun controls fan size, I think full CCW is widest fan. -Chris #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch(at)eskimo.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 7, 2009 8:16:22 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RV10-List: HF LPHV Question I am using a Harbor Freight purple LPHV spray gun for priming. I cannot get the spray fan to go beyond 2 to 3 inches. I would like it to be 5 to 6 inches. My compressor is a Campbell Hausfeld VT6271 which is a 3 HP unit with a 26 gallon tank that should provide enough air. Has someone got some experience with this gun and could provide insight on how to set the gun to function properly? Dave Fritzsche -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Fritzsche 40813 Puyallup, WA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chad E. Carlson" <me(at)chadcarlson.com>
Subject: Spins
Date: Apr 07, 2009
Hi Jim, I don't think it's THAT odd a question. I asked a very similar question about this time last year. Please see the below link for details. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=179918 On a related note, I am planning to attend spin training next month (weather permitting) at a local, FAA-sanctioned course. We'll be spinning a C-172, wearing parachutes, etc. I must admit I am a little nervous, but I really want to spin for the experience of knowing what it feels and looks like first-hand. Kind Regards, Chad E. Carlson www.chadcarlson.com From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 8:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Spins Odd question: IF anyone has spun a -10, what is the procedure to recover? (1) Neutral stick and opposite rudder to stop spin? (2) Power - Reduce (3) Smooth elevator to level flight (4) Clean Shorts! I don't plan on doing that but wold like to know Thanks, Jim Combs N312F - Flying (Forward not round and round!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spins
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 07, 2009
I haven't spun a -10 either. All spins start with a wing stall. So for incipient spins (spin entries), immediate stick forward, plus opposite rudder (resist the temptation to roll level with ailerons) should keep you from entering a fully developed spin. Recovery from the latter is not guaranteed. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238259#238259 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Battery Service report
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 07, 2009
Is it gas recombinant or standard lead-acid with caps? After having acid spill in a Piper Archer a few years ago, I would not use anything except a sealed unit. With the elevator push-rod under the battery in the RV10 I would never use a std lead-acid-capped unit. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238271#238271 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Spins
Date: Apr 08, 2009
Has the FAA changed the way training is done? I remember having to do "reco very from unusual attitudes" (I think that it was called) that definately r equired recovery from stall/spins. It was a real rush as your vision narrow ed down to just the prop as it appeared to stand still and the plane appear ed to rotate around the prop! We stalled and then spun c-150s=2C C-172s and Warriers. Most of these were full on spins. This was for the private and t hen instrument airplane ratings. None of this with a parachute. It was real ly great training and lots of fun. This occured in the 1970 thru 1980s. D uring those times I trained with several different instructors. It really g ave you the confidence and skills to recover from "unusual attitudes". Aga in=2C I'm a bit puzzled by the questions about spins. Are they not being t aught anymore? Thanks=2C Dan P.S. I'm meeting my son-in-law in Vegas next weekend and we are signed up for sailplanes on Saturday at the Jean=2C NV airport. Anybody done that? Is it a rush? > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Spins > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Tue=2C 7 Apr 2009 20:11:24 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I haven't spun a -10 either. All spins start with a wing stall. So for in cipient spins (spin entries)=2C immediate stick forward=2C plus opposite ru dder (resist the temptation to roll level with ailerons) should keep you fr om entering a fully developed spin. Recovery from the latter is not guarant eed. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238259#238259 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_ Mobile1_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tach Time
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Apr 08, 2009
I have dug on this topic and can not find an answer. So it might be so obvious that I am not getting it, fortunately I have you guys! We a GRT EIS, and a Hobbs meter (oil pressure activated). Per the GRT EIS manual we can select a RPM where the unit begins to count 'tach time', however this is an on-off switch, in other words when the RPM rises above 1500 RPM the counter starts, below 1500 RPM it doesn't count. This differs from a mechanical tach which is proportional to a certain RPM. In a mechanical tach that records tach time, the base RPM is usually set to 2300 RPM. This means that when the engine is running at 2300 RPM for 1 hour the tach time will indicate 1 hour, if the engine RPM is set to 2000 rpm for 1 hour the tach time will indicate .87 hours, if the engine RPM is set to 2700 rpm for 1 hour the tach time will indicate 1.17 hours. How are other handling this? Is there a regulation? What RPM value seems reasonable? What values are being recorded in engine, prop, and airframe logs? BTW, if you are using a Westach RPM generator and a GRT EIS, the pulses per revolution need to be set to 11, not 0, 1, or 2 as the documentation indicates. Thanks, Jason Kreidler It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork. #40617 N44YH Sheboygan Falls, WI (4) Partner Build Jason Kreidler Kyle Hokel Tony Kolar Wayne Elsner ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spins
Date: Apr 08, 2009
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
Warriors are not certified for spins so you are a test pilot-congratulations .Spin training is required only for CFIs .It is optional for anyone.Spin awa reness and avoidence is however required.As an active cfi I support this and see little value in scaring some otherwise excellent pilotsThe best pilots use there superior judgement to avoid situations where they must use there s uperior skills.just my 2 cents.From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> Sent: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 6:40 am Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Spins Has the FAA changed the way=C2-training is done? I remember having to do " recovery from unusual attitudes" (I think that it was called) that definatel y required recovery from stall/spins. It was a real rush as your vision narr owed down to just the prop as it appeared to stand still and the plane appea red to rotate around the prop! We stalled and then spun c-150s, C-172s and W arriers. Most of these were full on spins. This was for the private and then instrument airplane ratings. None of this with a parachute. It was really g reat training and lots of fun. This occured in the 1970 thru 1980s. =C2- =C2-During those times I trained with several different instructors. It re ally gave you the confidence and skills to recover from "unusual attitudes". =C2- Again, I'm a bit puzzled by the questions about spins. =C2-Are they not being taught anymore? Thanks, Dan=C2-=C2- P.S. I'm meeting my son-i n-law in Vegas next weekend and we are signed up for sailplanes on Saturday at the Jean, NV airport. Anybody done that? Is it a rush? =C2- > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Spins > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu > Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 20:11:24 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > I haven't spun a -10 either. All spins start with a wing stall. So for inc ipient spins (spin entries), immediate stick forward, plus opposite rudder ( resist the temptation to roll level with ailerons) should keep you from ente ring a fully developed spin. Recovery from the latter is not guaranteed. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238259#238259 > > > ====================== > > > Rediscover Hotmail=C2=AE: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry Check i t out. -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Spins
Danny, I disagree. See below. pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote: > Warriors are not certified for spins so you are a test > pilot-congratulations. Didn't know that ... I learned something!!! > Spin training is required only for CFIs .It is optional for > anyone.Spin awareness and avoidence is however required. That's all well and good, as long as you're in the 'instructional environment'. > As an active cfi I support this and see little value in scaring some > otherwise excellent pilots IMHO, squashing the fear is the job of a good instructor. Good preparation on the ground works wonders in the air. But I agree, scaring the student (or anyone else) is not a good teaching tool. Spins aren't something to be afraid of. > The best pilots use there superior judgement to avoid situations where > they must use there superior skills. And how does a student get there? I don't think there's a pilot out there that hasn't done something stupid and lived to tell the tale. (I don't consider the dead ones in that category 'pilots' anymore). The wrong time to 'experiment' with spin recovery is when you get into one accidentally. I got my license in an AA-1B (which I still own) and it's placarded against spins. I had to check out in another plane to get my spin training as a student .... because if I did something stupid in the Grumman, which really does want to spin ..... I wanted to know what it was all about. > just my 2 cents.From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> And I'll add mine. In a few decades, we should have a fortune!!! (before taxes!) Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spins
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 08, 2009
My two cents: 1. Spin training has not been required for a private certificate since the 1970's (or maybe earlier?). 2. A CFI can give you spin training (in a plane certified for it), no parachutes required. 3. As a cfi I have always strongly suggested, and all my students have agreed to, doing a few spin entries (one or two turns) prior to solo stall practice. Just to see what they look like. Some students, on seeing the ground fill the windscreen, react by wanting to pull back, when of course they need to push forward. One or two spins is all it takes for them to recognize it, and react properly. A proper pre-flight ground briefing - so they know what to expect - takes most of the fear factor away. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238349#238349 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tach Time
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 08, 2009
This question is, really, of academic interest only, since the "times" are not used for anything (for not-for-hire, Part 91 operations). e.g., there is no requirement (in the US, at least) to overhaul at TBO, nor are 100 hr inspections required, etc. I seem to recall, somewhere in an advisory circular, that operators who are required to have 100 hr inspections may use tach time or Hobbs, their choice, but I cannot recall exactly where I read that. You need to keep reliable records; but a long as it's clear what you're recording (e.g., time with the engine over 1500 rpm) it should be okay. Now, personal flying time - such as time logged to meet the experience required for a new rating - is defined in the FARs as "block to block", e.g., the actual time from which the aircraft first moves, with the intent of flying (taxing to the fuel pump doesn't count), until it comes to a stop at its tiedown, hangar, fuel island, etc., after landing. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238351#238351 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Spins
Date: Apr 08, 2009
A proper briefing is always required. I once took an Instrument student and coaxed him into cross controlled stalls without the hood then under the hood. He was capable of hooded recovery of the snap to inverted and the start of a spin, a recovery from the dive. I cautioned that he needed to do it right or he might kill us both. I an writing this so he did it right. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 10:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Spins My two cents: 1. Spin training has not been required for a private certificate since the 1970's (or maybe earlier?). 2. A CFI can give you spin training (in a plane certified for it), no parachutes required. 3. As a cfi I have always strongly suggested, and all my students have agreed to, doing a few spin entries (one or two turns) prior to solo stall practice. Just to see what they look like. Some students, on seeing the ground fill the windscreen, react by wanting to pull back, when of course they need to push forward. One or two spins is all it takes for them to recognize it, and react properly. A proper pre-flight ground briefing - so they know what to expect - takes most of the fear factor away. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238349#238349 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2009
From: jeremy black <rv10builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-10 Empennage, Wings and Tools For Sale
I have a RV 10 empennage completed less fiberglass.- The wings are skinne d on the top and the leading edges are done.- The fuel tanks are complete except for the baffles and sending units. The ailerons are complete except for the trailing edges.- One flap is complete- except for trailing edg e. The other is halfway.- All parts have been etched then primed with Mar hide aluminum primer.- I did a very good job deburing all holes, skins, r ibs etc. Quality craftsmanship.- Always kept in climate controlled enviro nment until last month.- It is still stored inside.- All tools used for assembly are also for sale.- I'm asking Vans price for the parts $12,540 you get 670 hours of labor for free.- I have logs.- Tools to be sold a t 75% of Avery/Cleveland price.- I'm located in west central Indiana.- Pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rv10builder/ Jeremy Black rv10builder(at)yahoo.com 765-720-2434 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tach Time
Date: Apr 08, 2009
I had a C-35 Bonanza in which we put an electronics International Tach. I think it began counting at 1200 rpm and up. We basically used its time counter to determine when engine TBO was reached. I plan something to the same effect with the GRT EIS. As Bob Turner said its up to you, you can run your engine to what ever time you want. -Chris #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 9:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tach Time I have dug on this topic and can not find an answer. So it might be so obvious that I am not getting it, fortunately I have you guys! We a GRT EIS, and a Hobbs meter (oil pressure activated). Per the GRT EIS manual we can select a RPM where the unit begins to count 'tach time', however this is an on-off switch, in other words when the RPM rises above 1500 RPM the counter starts, below 1500 RPM it doesn't count. This differs from a mechanical tach which is proportional to a certain RPM. In a mechanical tach that records tach time, the base RPM is usually set to 2300 RPM. This means that when the engine is running at 2300 RPM for 1 hour the tach time will indicate 1 hour, if the engine RPM is set to 2000 rpm for 1 hour the tach time will indicate .87 hours, if the engine RPM is set to 2700 rpm for 1 hour the tach time will indicate 1.17 hours. How are other handling this? Is there a regulation? What RPM value seems reasonable? What values are being recorded in engine, prop, and airframe logs? BTW, if you are using a Westach RPM generator and a GRT EIS, the pulses per revolution need to be set to 11, not 0, 1, or 2 as the documentation indicates. Thanks, Jason Kreidler It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork. #40617 N44YH Sheboygan Falls, WI (4) Partner Build Jason Kreidler Kyle Hokel Tony Kolar Wayne Elsner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2009
Subject: Re: Tach Time
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Maintenance is determined by regulation on "flight time". That can be recording tach, hobbs, hobbs controlled by an airspeed switch or whatever. There are requirements for entering total time, time in service, etc for maintenance purposes. Perhaps using an airspeed switch to turn on the EFIS recording at say 50kts would suffice. On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 2:06 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > This question is, really, of academic interest only, since the "times" are > not used for anything (for not-for-hire, Part 91 operations). e.g., there is > no requirement (in the US, at least) to overhaul at TBO, nor are 100 hr > inspections required, etc. > > I seem to recall, somewhere in an advisory circular, that operators who are > required to have 100 hr inspections may use tach time or Hobbs, their > choice, but I cannot recall exactly where I read that. > > You need to keep reliable records; but a long as it's clear what you're > recording (e.g., time with the engine over 1500 rpm) it should be okay. > > Now, personal flying time - such as time logged to meet the experience > required for a new rating - is defined in the FARs as "block to block", > e.g., the actual time from which the aircraft first moves, with the intent > of flying (taxing to the fuel pump doesn't count), until it comes to a stop > at its tiedown, hangar, fuel island, etc., after landing. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238351#238351 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2009
Subject: Re: Spins
From: Stephen Blank <sblankdds(at)gmail.com>
You will enjoy your spin training in the C-172, it is very predictable and can be fun. Don't just spin, plan to exit on a specific heading, challenge yourself to get good. For a non-aerobatic pilot, the goals are two: Learn what it feels like to cause a plane to spin (they dont spin, we spin them) and know what it takes to exit a spin safely without detaching the wings on a rapid pull out from the new view of the earth in the windshield. I like just slowing the plane (C-170) down while keeping leve l with increasing back pressure (like going too slow in a flat pattern) with a little rudder input and all of the sudden, the nose drops and it seems like one wing is pinned and you see your town like never before! Enjoy! As for the parachute, unless there is an ejection seat, it seems silly to me, but it is the regs. If you get good at this, entering a spin in your -10 will not happen.....you will be that much more aware of what you do after the training. Steve On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 10:03 PM, Chad E. Carlson wrote : > Hi Jim, > > On a related note, I am planning to attend spin training next month > (weather permitting) at a local, FAA-sanctioned course. We=92ll be spinni ng a > C-172, wearing parachutes, etc. I must admit I am a little nervous, but I > really want to spin for the experience of knowing what it feels and looks > like first-hand* > > * > -- Stephen G. Blank, DDS 184 NW Central Park Plaza Port St. Lucie, FL 34986 772-475-5556 Cell 772-878-7347 Office ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Spins
Date: Apr 08, 2009
When this subject comes up, I've wanted to say this, so here goes. Any good test pilot will put your RV10 through spins, loops and rolls while in Phase I test. Once in Phase II, such maneuvers are prohibited unless done in Phase I and specifically noted in your Phase II Operating Limitations. Does that mean that you could/should go out in your RV10 and do spins, loops and rolls? Are you as good an acrobatic pilot as your test pilot? These maneuvers done correctly, solo, are well within the load range of the RV10. These maneuvers done poorly are probably not! Don't even think about doing spins, loops and rolls and/or other acrobatic maneuvers in your RV10 unless you have had extensive training and are proficient and current in other planes. Additionally, be sure you understand the unique design characteristics of the RV10 and how these characteristics affect the performance of these maneuvers. That said...if you want to do acrobatics, do them in a Citabria...they are in the mission of that airplane. Acrobatics are not in the mission of the RV10. Oh, but you are worried that you might approach spin conditions while in your daily flying. Well, maybe practice practice practice staying well away from those conditions by making early planned descents, flying larger patterns, making shallow bank turns, staying coordinated, tuning base and final airspeed to load conditions and remember that go-arounds are an option if things are not working out. Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: linn<mailto:pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 8:14 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Spins > Danny, I disagree. See below. pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote: > Warriors are not certified for spins so you are a test > pilot-congratulations. Didn't know that ... I learned something!!! > Spin training is required only for CFIs .It is optional for > anyone.Spin awareness and avoidence is however required. That's all well and good, as long as you're in the 'instructional environment'. > As an active cfi I support this and see little value in scaring some > otherwise excellent pilots IMHO, squashing the fear is the job of a good instructor. Good preparation on the ground works wonders in the air. But I agree, scaring the student (or anyone else) is not a good teaching tool. Spins aren't something to be afraid of. > The best pilots use there superior judgement to avoid situations where > they must use there superior skills. And how does a student get there? I don't think there's a pilot out there that hasn't done something stupid and lived to tell the tale. (I don't consider the dead ones in that category 'pilots' anymore). The wrong time to 'experiment' with spin recovery is when you get into one accidentally. I got my license in an AA-1B (which I still own) and it's placarded against spins. I had to check out in another plane to get my spin training as a student .... because if I did something stupid in the Grumman, which really does want to spin ..... I wanted to know what it was all about. > just my 2 cents.From: Danny Riggs > And I'll add mine. In a few decades, we should have a fortune!!! (before taxes!) Linn http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Phase I
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Apr 08, 2009
Is it possible/legal as a student pilot to be signed off for solo flight in ones own RV10 during the fly off of phase I? That would enable the checkride to be performed in the RV10 as well. Cross training with Alex has already been completed. A CFI with 350 hours of RV10 time, and 4900 hours total time would be doing the signoff. Don -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238421#238421 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Phase I
Date: Apr 08, 2009
Unless you get a change to the standard operating limitations, only one pilot is allowed in the RV10 during phase I testing and fly off. A change is possible maybe , but likely not. N289DT received an inspection by the FAA Airworthiness employee, not a DAR, and I believe got some exception but then he had a private license and he still rolled it into a ball five months after first flight -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 7:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Phase I --> Is it possible/legal as a student pilot to be signed off for solo flight in ones own RV10 during the fly off of phase I? That would enable the checkride to be performed in the RV10 as well. Cross training with Alex has already been completed. A CFI with 350 hours of RV10 time, and 4900 hours total time would be doing the signoff. Don -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238421#238421 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Where do I start?
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Apr 08, 2009
I purchased a QB 10 from a prior builder, the empenage is complete to the tips along with the wings being complete with control linkages. The fuselage is untouched. I've been going through the plans and I'm indecisive about where to start on the fuselage because I don't want to get ahead of myself with doing too much to the floor area. I believe I have to eventually drill the pop rivets out of the floor area before attaching the steps but would like to get some feedback from experienced builders who have been to this stage and have some wisdom about which path to take first...thanks for your help. I don't yet have the finish kit. I'm stuck and need a little push. 1. Should I first remove pop rivets from floor area and completely loosen to have access to all areas? 2. Start building control linkages working my way aft? 3. Do as much as I can before attaching tailcone to fuselage? 4. Since steps came with fuselage kit should I attach those first then close floor area? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Lake City, MI based at CAD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238437#238437 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where do I start?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 09, 2009
All of Bob's comments are good. Especially the ones about the wire runs in the baggage area. This is a real bug-a-bo if neglected now. (I hope that the wings are open or that the wire runs are in there also! I hate to see you drilling out all those rivets, but it may not be avoidable. One of the weaknesses of the kit in my humble opinion is the buttoned up baggage floors. I would nut plate the whole area like Cessna does if I were starting over again. I compromised and put a small nut-plated hatch in over the bolt for the steps. This gives you visibility for an inspection. Another solution would be to order new back floors and cut out only the outboard areas on both sides. You could nut plate as needed and lay in your conduit and wires. Just overlap the floor panels. I ordered Van's wire kit at the point you are at. I did not use all of it, but it saved me a lot of effort and helped in the planning process. Good luck -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238450#238450 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Throttle Cable length - short
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Using a standard Van's panel mounted throttle (no quadrant), it fits very tight in the engine compartment. I can install it and get the threads inserted properly, but it will definitely rub and chafe on the bottom of the engine case. Anyone else had this same issue. It could definitely use an extra 3/4 of an inch in length. The prop & mixture were fine -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - FWF end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238451#238451 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Throttle Cable length - short
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Date: Apr 09, 2009
We had the same problem, we ordered the cable called for on the RV-7, and it worked perfect. I think by trying to use the shorter cable it forces the throttle arm to a more horizontal position while at idle. This make the throttle more difficult to advance at low power settings, almost like you need to push on the throttle hard enough to get the arm to go over center. Ideally the angle between the cable and the throttle arm while the throttle cable is advanced half way is 90 degrees. Making the angle of the cable to the throttle arm at idle approximately 135 degrees, and at wide open throttle approximately 45 degrees. I think the standard cable forces the angle while at idle to be something like 160 degrees, which is the cause of the 'over center' feeling. I am not suggesting that it will ever approach an over center condition, just that it fells like it is approaching an over center condition. The aircraft we took transition training in had a throttle that was harder to advance for the first one third of travel. Not a big deal, just the sort of perfection we all strive for. BTW, Vans indicated "They have never had this come up before on the RV-10". I posted this question to the list a while back, and found one or two others with the same problem. Anyone need a standard length RV-10 throttle cable? Thanks, Jason Kreidler It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork. #40617 N44YH Sheboygan Falls, WI (4) Partner Build Jason Kreidler Kyle Hokel Tony Kolar Wayne Elsner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Throttle Cable length - short
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I installed the quadrant and found the mixture and throttle cables tight, They easily could have used another inch. I did cut a section of flexible tubing/high temp spiral wrap over the cables where they might have chaffed. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 5:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Throttle Cable length - short We had the same problem, we ordered the cable called for on the RV-7, and it worked perfect. I think by trying to use the shorter cable it forces the throttle arm to a more horizontal position while at idle. This make the throttle more difficult to advance at low power settings, almost like you need to push on the throttle hard enough to get the arm to go over center. Ideally the angle between the cable and the throttle arm while the throttle cable is advanced half way is 90 degrees. Making the angle of the cable to the throttle arm at idle approximately 135 degrees, and at wide open throttle approximately 45 degrees. I think the standard cable forces the angle while at idle to be something like 160 degrees, which is the cause of the 'over center' feeling. I am not suggesting that it will ever approach an over center condition, just that it fells like it is approaching an over center condition. The aircraft we took transition training in had a throttle that was harder to advance for the first one third of travel. Not a big deal, just the sort of perfection we all strive for. BTW, Vans indicated "They have never had this come up before on the RV-10". I posted this question to the list a while back, and found one or two others with the same problem. Anyone need a standard length RV-10 throttle cable? Thanks, Jason Kreidler It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork. #40617 N44YH Sheboygan Falls, WI (4) Partner Build Jason Kreidler Kyle Hokel Tony Kolar Wayne Elsner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Where do I start?
I would think that you want to remove the baggage floor immediately (along with most of the screw on panels) and set them aside for awhile. The baggage floor panels are just 'tack' riveted in place anyway. Not to be confused with the passenger compartment floors. You have a decision to make with those as to whether you want to remove and inspect or trust the QB builder and simply finish the riveting at some point later. It's a significant bit of work to remove these panels due to the landing gear support and the tight fit. I left them in. With baggage floor out, you have to build up the tailcone (assuming you have riveting skills, very straight forward). Then attach it all together. Others have made the point about getting wiring and controls in place as early as possible. I think getting the tail attached is first, then start your wiring and controls. As late as possible after the wiring and controls, put your step on and close up the baggage floor. You'll know it's the right time when you just can't think of anything else to go in there. Have fun! Bill "missing his shop while attending some family stuff" Watson ---- rvdave wrote: > > I purchased a QB 10 from a prior builder, the empenage is complete to the tips along with the wings being complete with control linkages. The fuselage is untouched. I've been going through the plans and I'm indecisive about where to start on the fuselage because I don't want to get ahead of myself with doing too much to the floor area. I believe I have to eventually drill the pop rivets out of the floor area before attaching the steps but would like to get some feedback from experienced builders who have been to this stage and have some wisdom about which path to take first...thanks for your help. I don't yet have the finish kit. I'm stuck and need a little push. > > 1. Should I first remove pop rivets from floor area and completely loosen to have access to all areas? > > 2. Start building control linkages working my way aft? > > 3. Do as much as I can before attaching tailcone to fuselage? > > 4. Since steps came with fuselage kit should I attach those first then close floor area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Lake City, MI > based at CAD > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238437#238437 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Where do I start?
I would think that you want to remove the baggage floor immediately (along with most of the screw on panels) and set them aside for awhile. The baggage floor panels are just 'tack' riveted in place anyway. Not to be confused with the passenger compartment floors. You have a decision to make with those as to whether you want to remove and inspect or trust the QB builder and simply finish the riveting at some point later. It's a significant bit of work to remove these panels due to the landing gear support and the tight fit. I left them in. With baggage floor out, you have to build up the tailcone (assuming you have riveting skills, very straight forward). Then attach it all together. Others have made the point about getting wiring and controls in place as early as possible. I think getting the tail attached is first, then start your wiring and controls. As late as possible after the wiring and controls, put your step on and close up the baggage floor. You'll know it's the right time when you just can't think of anything else to go in there. Have fun! Bill "missing his shop while attending some family stuff" Watson ---- rvdave wrote: > > I purchased a QB 10 from a prior builder, the empenage is complete to the tips along with the wings being complete with control linkages. The fuselage is untouched. I've been going through the plans and I'm indecisive about where to start on the fuselage because I don't want to get ahead of myself with doing too much to the floor area. I believe I have to eventually drill the pop rivets out of the floor area before attaching the steps but would like to get some feedback from experienced builders who have been to this stage and have some wisdom about which path to take first...thanks for your help. I don't yet have the finish kit. I'm stuck and need a little push. > > 1. Should I first remove pop rivets from floor area and completely loosen to have access to all areas? > > 2. Start building control linkages working my way aft? > > 3. Do as much as I can before attaching tailcone to fuselage? > > 4. Since steps came with fuselage kit should I attach those first then close floor area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Lake City, MI > based at CAD > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238437#238437 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Where do I start?
I would think that you want to remove the baggage floor immediately (along with most of the screw on panels) and set them aside for awhile. The baggage floor panels are just 'tack' riveted in place anyway. Not to be confused with the passenger compartment floors. You have a decision to make with those as to whether you want to remove and inspect or trust the QB builder and simply finish the riveting at some point later. It's a significant bit of work to remove these panels due to the landing gear support and the tight fit. I left them in. With baggage floor out, you have to build up the tailcone (assuming you have riveting skills, very straight forward). Then attach it all together. Others have made the point about getting wiring and controls in place as early as possible. I think getting the tail attached is first, then start your wiring and controls. As late as possible after the wiring and controls, put your step on and close up the baggage floor. You'll know it's the right time when you just can't think of anything else to go in there. Have fun! Bill "missing his shop while attending some family stuff" Watson ---- rvdave wrote: > > I purchased a QB 10 from a prior builder, the empenage is complete to the tips along with the wings being complete with control linkages. The fuselage is untouched. I've been going through the plans and I'm indecisive about where to start on the fuselage because I don't want to get ahead of myself with doing too much to the floor area. I believe I have to eventually drill the pop rivets out of the floor area before attaching the steps but would like to get some feedback from experienced builders who have been to this stage and have some wisdom about which path to take first...thanks for your help. I don't yet have the finish kit. I'm stuck and need a little push. > > 1. Should I first remove pop rivets from floor area and completely loosen to have access to all areas? > > 2. Start building control linkages working my way aft? > > 3. Do as much as I can before attaching tailcone to fuselage? > > 4. Since steps came with fuselage kit should I attach those first then close floor area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Lake City, MI > based at CAD > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238437#238437 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Throttle Cable length - short
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Hi Mike=2C I had the same problem. Ended up reclocking the throttle arm (for best trav el/leverage) and installing a cushion clamp=2C to hold the cable=2C in a s pare threaded mounting hole in the bottom rear of the oil sump (these are c oarse threads.) The hard one for me has been the mixture control. Vern Smith (finishing #324) > Subject: RV10-List: Throttle Cable length - short > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Thu=2C 9 Apr 2009 02:43:39 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > Using a standard Van's panel mounted throttle (no quadrant)=2C it fits ve ry tight in the engine compartment. I can install it and get the threads in serted properly=2C but it will definitely rub and chafe on the bottom of th e engine case. Anyone else had this same issue. It could definitely use an extra 3/4 of an inch in length. The prop & mixture were fine > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "=3B09 > Q/B Kit - FWF end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238451#238451 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_ Mobile1_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Mike, I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets definitely will break if you just use hinge there. On the top though it is a nice clean look. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > Mike, > > I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and > would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use > screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. > > Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more > weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. > Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. > > Bob > N442PM (flying) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus > Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts > > > > I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like > the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the > firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 > seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but > I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks > of them). > > So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both > (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to > remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock > set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I > already bought them... > > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > RV-4 Flying > RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Here is a glimpse of how the SkyBolts look on a -10 (SJ) cowl. Pins definitely look cleaner. SB's are more industrial looking. Since we are not discussing costs I won't mention that my 6A uses $0.05 S/S screws that work as well as SkyBolts. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hardware heads up
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Just completing the first annual inspection and glad I used some Ace or McMaster Carr or Aircraft Spruce aviation hardware. I have enclosed a picture to illustrate the four substitutions. The aluminum fairing under the horizontal stabilizer. The plans call for counter sinking a #6 screw into the longeron. Then the longeron is tapped.. by the time the CS is complete there are few threads in the longeron for the fastener to grip. we decided to use stainless button heads with an internal hex head. Without the countersink there are more threads to grip. Where practical internally we used NAS hardware that had a hex external head with a Phillips internal pattern. there are two ways to remove the screw before resorting to drilling and Easy Out tool. On the tunnel the three forward screws on each side are CS stainless with an internal hex head rather than the Phillips head. When you are flat on your back trying to remove/insert the forward screws it is much easier to use an Allen wrench than applying pressure to a Phillips head to prevent slipping of the screw driver point. On the panel we used stainless cap screws where the cap and internal hex head allow two means of removal.. As you can probably tell I have done a few annuals and had to remove screws in inspection plates where the previous mechanic used a Makita with max torque setting ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be > working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off > or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. > And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets > definitely will break if you just use hinge there. > On the top though it is a nice clean look. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> > >> Mike, >> I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and >> would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use >> screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. >> Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more >> weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a >> while. >> Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. >> Bob >> N442PM (flying) >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael >> Kraus >> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts >> >> I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't >> like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment >> to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on >> the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing >> the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I >> don't like the looks of them). >> So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done >> both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins >> to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the >> cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts >> because I already bought them... >> Thanks >> -Mike Kraus >> RV-4 Flying >> RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF >> Sent from my iPhone > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Subject: Re: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? thanks... -Rob On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I > like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl > instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > 352-427-0285 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be >> working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off >> or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. >> And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets >> definitely will break if you just use hinge there. >> On the top though it is a nice clean look. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> >> >> >> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>> bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> >>> Mike, >>> I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and >>> would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use >>> screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. >>> Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more >>> weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. >>> Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. >>> Bob >>> N442PM (flying) >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus >>> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts >>> >>> I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like >>> the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the >>> firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems >>> much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the >>> ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). >>> So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both >>> (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove >>> and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is >>> better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought >>> them... >>> Thanks >>> -Mike Kraus >>> RV-4 Flying >>> RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Good News
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Rick & Kelly, I'm sure you are pleased to hear this news. The fight goes on for general aviation, especially experimentals but we may have won a small victory on this one. A Nevada resolution that would have asked Congress to award precedent-setting authority to a local aviation agency to preempt the FAA and ban any general aviation flight activity deemed "high risk" at North Las Vegas Airport has been reworked. Thanks to the collaborative efforts of the Clark County Aviation Association, key state legislators, and AOPA, the Nevada Senate's Energy, Infrastructure, and Transportation Committee instead unanimously passed a resolution on April 8 to support a stakeholders group of FAA officials, AOPA staff, local pilots, and the Clark County Department of Aviation to develop meaningful solutions to improve safety at the airport. Paul Grimstad RV10 450 Portland, Or. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
The hinge eyelets have a record of breaking. This is just the ones on the short pin underneath the bottom cowl. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Apr 9, 2009, at 2:43 PM, Rob Kochman wrote: > Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the > hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? > > thanks... > > -Rob > > On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint > wrote: > > I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock > format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part > of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is > just as good or better. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation > jesse(at)saintaviation.com > 352-427-0285 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > > Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be > working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off > or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. > And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets > definitely will break if you just use hinge there. > On the top though it is a nice clean look. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > > Mike, > I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and > would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use > screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. > Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more > weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a > while. > Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. > Bob > N442PM (flying) > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael > Kraus > Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts > > I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't > like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to > the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the > -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the > pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't > like the looks of them). > So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done > both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins > to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the > cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts > because I already bought them... > Thanks > -Mike Kraus > RV-4 Flying > RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF > Sent um - > : > 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10- > List< - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > = --> h > a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Wings > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
The hinge eyelets on the bottom of the lower cowl will break over time because of vibration. Many people have put the hinge segments on and then after they break switched over to screws. I decided to just install the screw setup from the beginning. Tim probably has pix on his site. Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? thanks... -Rob On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets definitely will break if you just use hinge there. On the top though it is a nice clean look. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: Mike, I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent um - : 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List < - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ->= --> h a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://forums.matronics.com/> -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I know they're expensive, but has anyone tried carbinges yet? (www.carbinge.com) I wonder if they'll break if placed on the bottom too? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 4:09 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts The hinge eyelets on the bottom of the lower cowl will break over time because of vibration. Many people have put the hinge segments on and then after they break switched over to screws. I decided to just install the screw setup from the beginning. Tim probably has pix on his site. Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? thanks... -Rob On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets definitely will break if you just use hinge there. On the top though it is a nice clean look. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: Mike, I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent um - : 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List < - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ->= --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/> a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hardware heads up
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I didn't like the stock set up of threading holes in the longeron for screws (aluminum threads, steel screw). I put nutplates in each of these locations - keeping the countersunk screw with a tinnerman on the fiberglass. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 2:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Hardware heads up Just completing the first annual inspection and glad I used some Ace or McMaster Carr or Aircraft Spruce aviation hardware. I have enclosed a picture to illustrate the four substitutions. The aluminum fairing under the horizontal stabilizer. The plans call for counter sinking a #6 screw into the longeron. Then the longeron is tapped.. by the time the CS is complete there are few threads in the longeron for the fastener to grip. we decided to use stainless button heads with an internal hex head. Without the countersink there are more threads to grip. Where practical internally we used NAS hardware that had a hex external head with a Phillips internal pattern. there are two ways to remove the screw before resorting to drilling and Easy Out tool. On the tunnel the three forward screws on each side are CS stainless with an internal hex head rather than the Phillips head. When you are flat on your back trying to remove/insert the forward screws it is much easier to use an Allen wrench than applying pressure to a Phillips head to prevent slipping of the screw driver point. On the panel we used stainless cap screws where the cap and internal hex head allow two means of removal.. As you can probably tell I have done a few annuals and had to remove screws in inspection plates where the previous mechanic used a Makita with max torque setting ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I didn't think you were supposed to use carbon or graphite in contact with aluminum? Aren't these carbon fiber hinges? Back to the original question, I used skybolt "camlocs" all the way around on my 7A. Lots of work to mount them.lots more weight, lots of time. On the 10, I think I'll use hinges for everything but the bottom.It takes me about 15 seconds to undo the bottom camlocks on my 7A.no big deal to undo 6 camlocks. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 3:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I know they're expensive, but has anyone tried carbinges yet? (www.carbinge.com) I wonder if they'll break if placed on the bottom too? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 4:09 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts The hinge eyelets on the bottom of the lower cowl will break over time because of vibration. Many people have put the hinge segments on and then after they break switched over to screws. I decided to just install the screw setup from the beginning. Tim probably has pix on his site. Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? thanks... -Rob On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets definitely will break if you just use hinge there. On the top though it is a nice clean look. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: Mike, I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent um - : 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List < - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ->= --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/> a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
Date: Apr 09, 2009
I used hinges on my 8A all the way around, no problems. I'll do the same on the 10. I will also have the side hinge pins installed/removed from the cockpit. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:30 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I didn't think you were supposed to use carbon or graphite in contact with aluminum? Aren't these carbon fiber hinges? Back to the original question, I used skybolt "camlocs" all the way around on my 7A. Lots of work to mount them.lots more weight, lots of time. On the 10, I think I'll use hinges for everything but the bottom.It takes me about 15 seconds to undo the bottom camlocks on my 7A.no big deal to undo 6 camlocks. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 3:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I know they're expensive, but has anyone tried carbinges yet? (www.carbinge.com) I wonder if they'll break if placed on the bottom too? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 4:09 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts The hinge eyelets on the bottom of the lower cowl will break over time because of vibration. Many people have put the hinge segments on and then after they break switched over to screws. I decided to just install the screw setup from the beginning. Tim probably has pix on his site. Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:44 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts Jesse, Bob... what's the reason for using something other than the hinges for the bottom of the lower cowl? thanks... -Rob On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: I have done both and much prefer the look and ease of the stock format. I like the option of skybolt fasteners for the bottom part of the lower cowl instead of the pins, but nutplates & screws is just as good or better. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Put me down for the same. I like the pins. They seem to be working out real well. Once I even had the top cowl off or nearly off before my hangar door could crank down. And, I have screws on the bottom, because those eyelets definitely will break if you just use hinge there. On the top though it is a nice clean look. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: Mike, I've been flying for almost a year, am happy with the stock setup and would do it that way again. Only change I made was to use screws/nutplates on the lower cowl bottom attach. Sometimes it's hard to get a consensus about things so I'd give more weight to the opinions of those that have been flying for quite a while. Tim Olson, Scott Schmidt, etc. Bob N442PM (flying) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts I don't want to start a primer war here, but on my RV-4 I didn't like the set up for the upper cowl using the pins for attachment to the firewall so I went with SkyBolt Fasteners. The set up on the -10 seems much better. I like the clean look of not seeing the pins, but I like the ease of the SkyBolt Fasteners (but I don't like the looks of them). So my question is for those who either have the pins or have done both (repeat offenders) how much of a pain in the @ss are the pins to remove and install? Is it a good set up, or do you think the cam lock set up is better? Let not talk the cost of the SlyBolts because I already bought them... Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Cowling, wiring, FWF Sent um - : 0-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List < - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ->= --> h <http://forums.matronics.com/> a href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Sun N Fun '09
Date: Apr 09, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Will be on the ground Tuesday/Wednesday and Thursday in Lakeland. Are any other RV-10 builders considering attending Joe Norris' Seminar at Noon on Thursday "The 51% Rule... Are You Legal?" John Cox #600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowl Pins or Sky Bolts
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Date: Apr 09, 2009
second RV. First had all pins--yucko--the 10 has the 2 side pins (it does look cleaner there and they are pretty easy to remove, replace, BUT I really like the skybolts in all other places. IMHO looks are fine, and much easier to use. larry -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238570#238570 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Where do I start?
Date: Apr 09, 2009
Dave: I agree with everyone else that said the temporary floor installation should come out. Following that, I would start at the beginning of the instructions and check off/inspect everything that has been done, then start building as you come to incomplete areas. The instructions are written in a logical order and while you do have some options following them in order will keep you from building yourself into a corner or forgetting something that will be hard to go back to. The big choices regarding when to do things will come as you complete the forward upper fuselage section and deciding where to mount the various avionics and electrical components that can be installed behind the panel. Good luck. Dick Sipp N110DV 130 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 11:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Where do I start? > > I purchased a QB 10 from a prior builder, the empenage is complete to the > tips along with the wings being complete with control linkages. The > fuselage is untouched. I've been going through the plans and I'm > indecisive about where to start on the fuselage because I don't want to > get ahead of myself with doing too much to the floor area. I believe I > have to eventually drill the pop rivets out of the floor area before > attaching the steps but would like to get some feedback from experienced > builders who have been to this stage and have some wisdom about which path > to take first...thanks for your help. I don't yet have the finish kit. > I'm stuck and need a little push. > > 1. Should I first remove pop rivets from floor area and completely loosen > to have access to all areas? > > 2. Start building control linkages working my way aft? > > 3. Do as much as I can before attaching tailcone to fuselage? > > 4. Since steps came with fuselage kit should I attach those first then > close floor area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Lake City, MI > based at CAD > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238437#238437 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
John, =C2-I should be there for most of the week and will attend. I might even bring a hunk of flying aluminun. Patrick Thyssen --- On Thu, 4/9/09, John Cox wrote: From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> Subject: RV10-List: Sun N Fun '09 Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009, 7:23 PM =0A=0A=0A =0A =0ASun N Fun '09=0AWill be on the ground Tuesday/Wednesday an d Thursday in Lakeland.=C2- Are any other RV-10 builders considering atte nding Joe Norris' Seminar at Noon on Thursday "The 51% Rule Are Yo u Legal?"=0A=0AJohn Cox=0A=0A#600=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
Date: Apr 10, 2009
Mary and I are planning on being there with our airplane on Tuesday and Wednesday. David Maib 40559 On Apr 10, 2009, at 8:00 AM, Patrick Thyssen wrote: John, I should be there for most of the week and will attend. I might even bring a hunk of flying aluminun. Patrick Thyssen --- On Thu, 4/9/09, John Cox wrote: From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> Subject: RV10-List: Sun N Fun '09 Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009, 7:23 PM Will be on the ground Tuesday/Wednesday and Thursday in Lakeland. Are any other RV-10 builders considering attending Joe Norris' Seminar at Noon on Thursday "The 51% Rule=85 Are You Legal?" John Cox #600 http://www.matronics.com/Navtarget="_blank" href="http:// forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matron - List gt; ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 10, 2009
I'll be there all week. Driving down Monday & camping. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238610#238610 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spins
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 10, 2009
Many years ago I taught spins in the Navy. For straight winged aircraft it's pretty simple. Power idle, and neutralize the controls. All you really have to do is let go of the controls and wind the clock. After it recovers itself, gently bring the nose back up to level flight adding power. The biggest issue is the trim. If you absentmindedly trimmed into the stall, you are in for a big surprise when it comes out. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238615#238615 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
While we're at it, would it be possible to set a time when all the RV-10 owners are at their planes so the rest of us can talk to you? Last year I only got to talk to Jesse .... and he was loading up to leave! Linn johngoodman wrote: > > I'll be there all week. Driving down Monday & camping. > > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238610#238610 > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
My son and I will be at Sun-N-Fun on Tuesday and Wednesday. I will propose to meet at Vans booth at 11am each day of the show. Larry Rosen linn wrote: > While we're at it, would it be possible to set a time when all the > RV-10 owners are at their planes so the rest of us can talk to you? > Last year I only got to talk to Jesse .... and he was loading up to leave! > Linn > > johngoodman wrote: >> >> I'll be there all week. Driving down Monday & camping. >> >> John >> >> -------- >> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. >> N711JG reserved >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238610#238610 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2009
From: William Souza <electspec(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
RV-10 N279RB Rick Gray's OSH 2007 Award Winner. Will be at Sun & Fun Tuesday and Wednesday. Bill Souza, New Owner --- On Fri, 4/10/09, Larry Rosen wrote: > From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Sun N Fun '09 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, April 10, 2009, 10:12 AM > > > My son and I will be at Sun-N-Fun on Tuesday and Wednesday. > > I will propose to meet at Vans booth at 11am each day of > the show. > > Larry Rosen > > linn wrote: > > While we're at it, would it be possible to set a > time when all the > > RV-10 owners are at their planes so the rest of us can > talk to you? > > Last year I only got to talk to Jesse .... and he was > loading up to leave! > > Linn > > > > johngoodman wrote: > "johngoodman" > >> > >> I'll be there all week. Driving down Monday > & camping. > >> > >> John > >> > >> -------- > >> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit > started. > >> N711JG reserved > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Read this topic online here: > >> > >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238610#238610 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >> > >> > >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >> > >> > > > > * > > > > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 10, 2009
That sounds like a good plan. 11:00 at Van's display each day. -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238641#238641 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Sun N Fun '09
Date: Apr 10, 2009
I'll be attached to booth 87 in Hall A, so you all stop by and see us! -Bob Newman TCW Technologies, LLC. #40176, canopy installed :) ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Sun N Fun '09 > > That sounds like a good plan. 11:00 at Van's display each day. > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238641#238641 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: annual inspection
Date: Apr 11, 2009
Currently in the first annual at 135TT. Just installed the new Matco axle. Very easy install. Installed an addtional Odyssey 680 on the firewal. pictures enclosed. found some surface corrosion on the aileron torque tubes ; removed and treating with AVL externaly and internally Found slight seap of 5606 at the hard line bulkhead fitting at the tunnel for left main. Probably caused the left line to suck a little air and drag the left brake. left brake worn more than right, will replace both and new tires. My guess is that the tires have 250-300 landings. Horizontal stab bulkhead shows no stress whatsoever; we used Hi-Locs to install stab into he longerons. Found some abraison on the right side of tunnel caused by left rudder pedal linkage bolt Will put a thin delrin sheet on the side of the tunnel or perhaps stainless. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 8050-2 form
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 11, 2009
For registration, the EAA says a bill of sale is needed from Vans, not the invoice, and suggests FAA form 8050-2. Does Vans send this with the finishing kit? On request? Or is the other paperwork from Vans sufficient? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238748#238748 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 8050-2 form
Upon request Van's will provide you with a REAL bill of Sale.... they know what to send you. Don McDonald --- On Sat, 4/11/09, Bob Turner wrote: From: Bob Turner <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> Subject: RV10-List: 8050-2 form Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 9:49 PM For registration, the EAA says a bill of sale is needed from Vans, not the invoice, and suggests FAA form 8050-2. Does Vans send this with the finishing kit? On request? Or is the other pap erwork from Vans sufficient? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238748#238748 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: annual inspection
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Apr 12, 2009
Yet another thing to keep an eye out for at annual time... I just finished the bulkhead reinforcement SB as the first part of my first annual and found a bad bearing on one of the elevators - it almost feels like grit is in it. It wasn't noticeable through the control stick or when moving the elevators themselves but when disassembled it was very clearly an issue. Check those planes carefully! Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238768#238768 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2009
Subject: Re: annual inspection
From: jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Another item to check at annual time. Backup EFIS Battery. Run the EFIS on backup and time how long it takes to go flat. Don't just assume you have what is documented on the backup battery. Jim C (N312F - Flying - 55+ hours) --------------------------------------------------------- Yet another thing to keep an eye out for at annual time... I just finished the bulkhead reinforcement SB as the first part of my first annual and found a bad bearing on one of the elevators - it almost feels like grit is in it. It wasn't noticeable through the control stick or when moving the elevators themselves but when disassembled it was very clearly an issue. Check those planes carefully! Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238768#238768 - The RV10-List Email Forum - Features Navigator to browse Un/Subscription, Chat, FAQ, --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - available via the Web Forums! http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web Site - generous support! Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
Date: Apr 12, 2009
Hi Deems Do you know what he used to dilute the pro-seal? Cheers Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - some assembly required -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: April-12-09 9:42 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture --> RV-List message posted by: Deems Davis An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower) http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm gave me a great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a diluted mixture of Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to partially fill any creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and the skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do his RV8. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....' http://deemsrv10.com/ Kyle Boatright wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > JB weld is a good product for that application. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: annual inspection
Date: Apr 12, 2009
my avionics backup battery is trickle charged every time the engine runs. Health of the battery is apparent each time avionics are booted prior to engine start. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:06 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: annual inspection Another item to check at annual time. Backup EFIS Battery. Run the EFIS on backup and time how long it takes to go flat. Don't just assume you have what is documented on the backup battery. Jim C (N312F - Flying - 55+ hours) --------------------------------------------------------- Yet another thing to keep an eye out for at annual time... I just finished the bulkhead reinforcement SB as the first part of my first annual and found a bad bearing on one of the elevators - it almost feels like grit is in it. It wasn't noticeable through the control stick or when moving the elevators themselves but when disassembled it was very clearly an issue. Check those planes carefully! Bob N442PM (flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238768#238768 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 12, 2009
Hi I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate screws? I can't seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2009
Subject: Re: annual inspection
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Some what unnecessary in cold climates. In 22 yrs in Fairbanks never replaced a battery in less than 5 years. Cold weather may reduce the cranking ability at extreme cold temps by slowing the reaction, but has little impact on the capacity or life. Hot weather, such as Aridzona accelerates sulfation of the plates and vehicles that have batteries unprotected in the engine compartment rarely get more than 2 year life. On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 7:26 PM, gary wrote: > Since I lived up north for most of my life I have always replaced my > battery at every annual. In our cars we replace them every 2 to 3 years to > make sure we don=92t get stranded. I plan on the same schedule on my 10. You > can always use a spare battery for non critical non aviation uses around > home. > > > Gary Specketer > > 40274 Flying > > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > * * > > * > =========== ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =========== =========== com/contribution =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Question for the sheet metal mavens
The 'rule' is ...... how many screws do you want to remove while you're standing on your head in the belly of the beast in the summer heat???? Depending on the size of the access plate, one screw in the corners and one in between the corners should do just fine. Linn Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > > > I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can > access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. > > > > Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate > screws? I can't seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. > > > > Inquiring minds need to know > > > > Les Kearney > > #40643 -- some assembly required. > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Is it a structual area? ----- Original Message ----- From: linn To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:25 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens The 'rule' is ...... how many screws do you want to remove while you're standing on your head in the belly of the beast in the summer heat???? Depending on the size of the access plate, one screw in the corners and one in between the corners should do just fine. Linn Les Kearney wrote: Hi I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate screws? I can't seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 12, 2009
absolutely - it is the fuse so a four screw solution doesn't quote work. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 12-Apr-09, at 7:10 PM, Chris and Susie wrote: > Is it a structual area? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: linn > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:25 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens > > The 'rule' is ...... how many screws do you want to remove while > you're standing on your head in the belly of the beast in the summer > heat???? > Depending on the size of the access plate, one screw in the corners > and one in between the corners should do just fine. > Linn > > Les Kearney wrote: >> >> Hi >> >> >> I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I >> can access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. >> >> >> Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate >> screws? I can=99t seem to find anything in the usual reference mater >> ials. >> >> >> Inquiring minds need to know >> >> >> Les Kearney >> >> #40643 =93 some assembly required. >> >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Les sometimes its better to contact the engineering department at Vans as they designed the 10 and run it by them. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney To: RV10 Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:37 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens absolutely - it is the fuse so a four screw solution doesn't quote work. Cheers Les Sent from my iPhone On 12-Apr-09, at 7:10 PM, Chris and Susie wrote: Is it a structual area? ----- Original Message ----- From: linn To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:25 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens The 'rule' is ...... how many screws do you want to remove while you're standing on your head in the belly of the beast in the summer heat???? Depending on the size of the access plate, one screw in the corners and one in between the corners should do just fine. Linn Les Kearney wrote: Hi I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate screws? I can=99t seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 =93 some assembly required. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Checked by AVG - www.avg.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Question for the sheet metal mavens
The access plate for the stall warning horn might be a start. They are both 'structural'. Obviously, what Chris said applies. Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can > access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. > > Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate > screws? I cant seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les Kearney > > #40643 some assembly required. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Another alternative for those not wanting to manufacture their own access plate is available from Dave Ward. (www.airward.com) It's a little expensive, but Dave provides a nice prepackaged solution. Dave is also the gentleman that sells the parking brake assembly through Van's. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 7:45 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens The access plate for the stall warning horn might be a start. They are both 'structural'. Obviously, what Chris said applies. Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can > access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. > > Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate > screws? I can't seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les Kearney > > #40643 - some assembly required. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Subject: Running wire through bulkhead
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
How did you run wire past the bulkhead between the baggage area and rear seats? The 3/4" holes for wire on either side are definitely not big enough. Did you enlarge one or both of those holes (and if so, how large)? I called Van's and they wouldn't say how large you can make those holes. Did anyone run wires through the lightening hole, under the seat, and up through the seat bottom (between the side skin and cover)? Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Running wire through bulkhead
Date: Apr 13, 2009
This is how I did it. I ran three of Van's nylon conduits on each side. Another builder ran only two on each side and ran out of room. I got the large rubber grommets that fit the side lighting holes from Stein. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead How did you run wire past the bulkhead between the baggage area and rear seats? The 3/4" holes for wire on either side are definitely not big enough. Did you enlarge one or both of those holes (and if so, how large)? I called Van's and they wouldn't say how large you can make those holes. Did anyone run wires through the lightening hole, under the seat, and up through the seat bottom (between the side skin and cover)? Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Filter maintenance
Date: Apr 13, 2009
If you don't already have this. -----Original Message----- From: Airflow Performance [mailto:airflow2(at)bellsouth.net] Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:00 AM Subject: Fuel Filter David, Attached is a manual for a fuel filter assy. If you have any questions give us a call. Thanks, Kyle Day Airflow Performance 111 Airflow Drive Spartanburg, SC 29306 Phone: 864-576-4512 Fax: 864-576-0201 E-Mail: Airflow2(at)bellsouth.net Website: airflowperformance.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2009
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Possible problem with fuel over pressure
While crusing at 12,500 feet I got an engine warning with the fuel system p ressure at 52psi. I turned on the electric fuel pump and it went away for 1 0 seconds and then was back. Thereafter, there was no effect whether the el ectric fuel pump was on or off. - Next I looked at the fuel flow indicator and it was spot-on and steady, als o the engine never wavered. I am thinking that it is probably a sensor prob lem or the wiring associated with the sensor. Flew a second flight yesterda y with no warning. - Has anybody had experience with such a problem? It seems improbable that a mechanical fuel pump running at a somewhat low rpm would create that much p ressure. - Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Subject: Re: Running wire through bulkhead
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, Carl... I was starting to think that's the best option. How did yo u make the holes in the seat rib? On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 7:48 AM, Carl Froehlich wro te: > This is how I did it. I ran three of Van=92s nylon conduits on each sid e. > Another builder ran only two on each side and ran out of room. > > > I got the large rubber grommets that fit the side lighting holes from > Stein. > > > Carl Froehlich > > RV-8A (450 hrs) > > RV-10 (fuselage) > > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman > *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2009 9:52 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead > > > How did you run wire past the bulkhead between the baggage area and rear > seats? The 3/4" holes for wire on either side are definitely not big > enough. Did you enlarge one or both of those holes (and if so, how large )? > I called Van's and they wouldn't say how large you can make those holes. > Did anyone run wires through the lightening hole, under the seat, and up > through the seat bottom (between the side skin and cover)? > > > Thanks... > > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 Wings > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Running wire through bulkhead
Date: Apr 13, 2009
This is what I did at the rear cabin lower bulkhead to hold conduit. It was very easy and works great so far. Geoff Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:48 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead This is how I did it. I ran three of Van's nylon conduits on each side. Another builder ran only two on each side and ran out of room. I got the large rubber grommets that fit the side lighting holes from Stein. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead How did you run wire past the bulkhead between the baggage area and rear seats? The 3/4" holes for wire on either side are definitely not big enough. Did you enlarge one or both of those holes (and if so, how large)? I called Van's and they wouldn't say how large you can make those holes. Did anyone run wires through the lightening hole, under the seat, and up through the seat bottom (between the side skin and cover)? Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Running wire through bulkhead
I did roughly the same thing, but used the 1/2", or 3/4" pvc drip system li ne.=C2- It's cheap and light.=C2- Ran them in the wings also.=C2- Ran a totally seperate one for the magnatometer wires, all the way from front to back.=C2- The drip system stuff doesn't turn corners as well, but it's not corrugated, so smoother movement of wires.=C2- Run more than you thi nk you'll need. Don McDonald --- On Mon, 4/13/09, Carl Froehlich wrote: From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 7:48 AM This is how I did it.=C2- I ran three of Van=99s nylon conduits on each side.=C2- Another builder ran only two on each side and ran out of r oom. =C2- I got the large rubber grommets that fit the side lighting holes from Stein . Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) =C2- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Running wire through bulkhead =C2- How did you run wire past the bulkhead between the baggage area and rear se ats?=C2- The 3/4" holes for wire on either side are definitely not big en ough.=C2- Did you enlarge one or both of those holes (and if so, how larg e)?=C2- I called Van's and they wouldn't say how large you can make those holes.=C2- Did anyone run wires through the lightening hole, under the s eat, and up through the seat bottom (between the side skin and cover)?=C2 - =C2- Thanks... =C2- -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV 10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2 -=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Re: Possible problem with fuel over pressure
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Bill, I had the same problem with erratic high readings on the fuel pressure and solved it with a new heavier ground wire. Sheldon Olesen N475PV 57.3 hours On Apr 13, 2009, at 10:36 AM, Bill DeRouchey wrote: > While crusing at 12,500 feet I got an engine warning with the fuel > system pressure at 52psi. I turned on the electric fuel pump and it > went away for 10 seconds and then was back. Thereafter, there was > no effect whether the electric fuel pump was on or off. > > Next I looked at the fuel flow indicator and it was spot-on and > steady, also the engine never wavered. I am thinking that it is > probably a sensor problem or the wiring associated with the sensor. > Flew a second flight yesterday with no warning. > > Has anybody had experience with such a problem? It seems improbable > that a mechanical fuel pump running at a somewhat low rpm would > create that much pressure. > > Bill DeRouchey > N939SB, flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: GRT EFIS and Checklist loading
Date: Apr 13, 2009
I have my GRT EFIS and EIS working well, but I am unable to load the checklist. My checklist looks exactly like the GRT sample. There are no clues from the EFIS as to why the list won't load. I have tried several file formats for the file. I suspect the problem may be that I am a Macintosh user. Has anyone with a Mac solved this problem, and if so, how? Thanks, Sheldon Olesen N475PV 57 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: GRT EFIS and Checklist loading
Date: Apr 13, 2009
I had a similar problem, but it ended up being the thumb drive......try a different one and see if that fixes it. Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: GRT EFIS and Checklist loading I have my GRT EFIS and EIS working well, but I am unable to load the checklist. My checklist looks exactly like the GRT sample. There are no clues from the EFIS as to why the list won't load. I have tried several file formats for the file. I suspect the problem may be that I am a Macintosh user. Has anyone with a Mac solved this problem, and if so, how? Thanks, Sheldon Olesen N475PV 57 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel filter
Date: Apr 13, 2009
If you don't already have this. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Question for the sheet metal mavens
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Hi Bob I spoke to Dave this morning and decided to go with his solution. He also sent me a message offline as he monitors our list. While it is good business to stay in touch with your potential customers, it is always nice to see when suppliers make the effort. Thanks for the heads up. Cheers Les #40643 - Some assembly required -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: April-13-09 7:53 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens Another alternative for those not wanting to manufacture their own access plate is available from Dave Ward. (www.airward.com) It's a little expensive, but Dave provides a nice prepackaged solution. Dave is also the gentleman that sells the parking brake assembly through Van's. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 7:45 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question for the sheet metal mavens The access plate for the stall warning horn might be a start. They are both 'structural'. Obviously, what Chris said applies. Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > I am planning to install an access plate into the fuse tunnel so I can > access my fuel pumps without removing my center console. > > Can anyone tell me what the rules are for spacing the cover plate > screws? I can't seem to find anything in the usual reference materials. > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les Kearney > > #40643 - some assembly required. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: TG-10 vent Adel clamps
Date: Apr 13, 2009
I see on the section 27-6 (firewall) that they have one install the Heat vents . In figure 2 they show the adel clamps on the top of the vents (to hold the cable) but nothing to indicate what screw and the size of the clamp used. Is it a DG4 (1/4) or a 3/16. What are those who have done this used for the clamps. Thank you! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: TG-10 vent Adel clamps
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Good timing.. I was just looking at that yesterday too. The stainless steel ones that I got didn't have the predrilled hole like the Van's version did or mentioned the adel clamp. My thought was to wait until the plans call to install the cable and used whatever fits. Although by then, working room may be significantly tighter. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: TG-10 vent Adel clamps I see on the section 27-6 (firewall) that they have one install the Heat vents . In figure 2 they show the adel clamps on the top of the vents (to hold the cable) but nothing to indicate what screw and the size of the clamp used. Is it a DG4 (1/4) or a 3/16. What are those who have done this used for the clamps. Thank you! Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TG-10 vent Adel clamps
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 13, 2009
FWF instructions call for a AN525-8R8 screw, a MS21919WDG3 clamp; held on the underside by one washer plus a lock nut. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239027#239027 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Annual questions and tips
Date: Apr 13, 2009
Anyone find rudder pedals abrading the sides of the tunnel? Also another place to use the internal hex head CS 8-32 screws is a place under the gear leg /fuselage fiberglass. There is one screw there that will have to be removed with a right angle Phillips head tool or use an Allen wrench with the internal hex head CS screw. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 13, 2009
yes, mechanical things fail. After checking with one of the first to lose a door I decided not to install the light system. He said that the first time he lost the door there was no system; but the second time he lost the door the system was installed and he missed it. I just check the pins physically at engine start and before takeoff. Of course I can reach the pins and feel them in place; some have coverings there that make that sort of check difficult. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 13, 2009
also the three fatal crashes of RV10s did not involve an unclosed door. You note that the NTSB report confirms doors found in the crash site. I specifically asked the question of the NTSB investigator for 210HM. The only door opening that came close to a fatal was 415EC? (IIRC) and it may have had some other damage prior to door separation. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Door Closed switches or not
Date: Apr 14, 2009
I always get the passengers in then I close the passenger door from outside to make sure it is shut properly. Then with normal TMPFISH check I push the front and back of door to make sure its shut and try and pull the handle up without pushing button. I have after marked door guides and not sure if they make things better or not. I also check the door handles when I do fuel radio check each 30 min. They have not moved yet. One should not need lights buzzers etc for a door it isnt a 747. Just another opinion ofcourse and I am no expert. Maybe somone can design a door that swivels from the front? Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 1:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches yes, mechanical things fail. After checking with one of the first to lose a door I decided not to install the light system. He said that the first time he lost the door there was no system; but the second time he lost the door the system was installed and he missed it. I just check the pins physically at engine start and before takeoff. Of course I can reach the pins and feel them in place; some have coverings there that make that sort of check difficult. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Guys, I was not looking for a debate on whether I should have a door ajar annunciator or not. I decided long ago that I would have such a warning. I am days from first flight and have NO interest in removing the capability. The reed relay solution is entirely appropriate and should not be subject to many (if any) mechanical failure modes. I just should have thought a bit more about the magnets relative to the more sensitive instruments in the panel and have posted so that others who CHOOSE to go down this path do not make the same mistake. To my knowledge, the magnets/reed relay/annunciator are a standard inclusion in the kit these days. Ron ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 1:16 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches also the three fatal crashes of RV10s did not involve an unclosed door. You note that the NTSB report confirms doors found in the crash site. I specifically asked the question of the NTSB investigator for 210HM. The only door opening that came close to a fatal was 415EC? (IIRC) and it may have had some other damage prior to door separation. ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 13, 2009
I was not trying to change your mind, just providing another point of view for those who are in other stages of project. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:04 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Guys, I was not looking for a debate on whether I should have a door ajar annunciator or not. I decided long ago that I would have such a warning. I am days from first flight and have NO interest in removing the capability. The reed relay solution is entirely appropriate and should not be subject to many (if any) mechanical failure modes. I just should have thought a bit more about the magnets relative to the more sensitive instruments in the panel and have posted so that others who CHOOSE to go down this path do not make the same mistake. To my knowledge, the magnets/reed relay/annunciator are a standard inclusion in the kit these days. Ron _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 1:16 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches also the three fatal crashes of RV10s did not involve an unclosed door. You note that the NTSB report confirms doors found in the crash site. I specifically asked the question of the NTSB investigator for 210HM. The only door opening that came close to a fatal was 415EC? (IIRC) and it may have had some other damage prior to door separation. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
My fault Ron for going off topic so what about one of those switches in cars that turn the interior light on? Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
So Ron, what distance did you determine should be maintained as a minimum? John 40315 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 2:04 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Guys, I was not looking for a debate on whether I should have a door ajar annunciator or not. I decided long ago that I would have such a warning. I am days from first flight and have NO interest in removing the capability. The reed relay solution is entirely appropriate and should not be subject to many (if any) mechanical failure modes. I just should have thought a bit more about the magnets relative to the more sensitive instruments in the panel and have posted so that others who CHOOSE to go down this path do not make the same mistake. To my knowledge, the magnets/reed relay/annunciator are a standard inclusion in the kit these days. Ron _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 1:16 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches also the three fatal crashes of RV10s did not involve an unclosed door. You note that the NTSB report confirms doors found in the crash site. I specifically asked the question of the NTSB investigator for 210HM. The only door opening that came close to a fatal was 415EC? (IIRC) and it may have had some other damage prior to door separation. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Ron Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Ron, this very problem was brought up to me a few weeks ago by another builder, and what we decided to do is make some door guide pins up without magnets for the front of the doors. They will be available within the next few days. what I've decided to do is offer to swap out non-magnetic for the magnetic pins at no cost to any who already own the guide pin-block set regardless where they were purchased. There also will be the option to order new kits with non magnetic front pins added to the website soon. if any want to take advantage of this offer be sure to drop me an e-mail before you send the old pins to me so I can write them up with return addresses. steven dinieri iflyrv10.com capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com 716.579.5790 From: McGANN, Ron Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 14, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Another possibility is to keep the existing system and use some magnetic shielding material to keep the mag field localized to the door sensors. There are probably a lot of sources but here's one: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/edmomumetal.php Bob N442PM (flying) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 12:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron, this very problem was brought up to me a few weeks ago by another builder, and what we decided to do is make some door guide pins up without magnets for the front of the doors. They will be available within the next few days. what I've decided to do is offer to swap out non-magnetic for the magnetic pins at no cost to any who already own the guide pin-block set regardless where they were purchased. There also will be the option to order new kits with non magnetic front pins added to the website soon. if any want to take advantage of this offer be sure to drop me an e-mail before you send the old pins to me so I can write them up with return addresses. steven dinieri iflyrv10.com capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com 716.579.5790 From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Subject: Phase I
I would strongly recommend against it as a RV-10 is a much different beast than a trainer aircraft and it's a lot easier to get behind in a -10 than a trainer. Also, don't forget you need an HP endorsement under FAR 61.31(f) which is something, in my opinion, no instructor should be giving to a student pilot. http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgFar.nsf/FARSBySectLookup/61.31 Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 10:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Phase I Is it possible/legal as a student pilot to be signed off for solo flight in ones own RV10 during the fly off of phase I? That would enable the checkride to be performed in the RV10 as well. Cross training with Alex has already been completed. A CFI with 350 hours of RV10 time, and 4900 hours total time would be doing the signoff. Don -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238421#238421 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Phase I
Date: Apr 14, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Hey Michael......"The tree of life can be self pruning". John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tue 4/14/2009 1:18 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Phase I I would strongly recommend against it as a RV-10 is a much different beast than a trainer aircraft and it's a lot easier to get behind in a -10 than a trainer. Also, don't forget you need an HP endorsement under FAR 61.31(f) which is something, in my opinion, no instructor should be giving to a student pilot. http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgFar.nsf/FARSBySectLo okup/61.31 Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 10:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Phase I Is it possible/legal as a student pilot to be signed off for solo flight in ones own RV10 during the fly off of phase I? That would enable the checkride to be performed in the RV10 as well. Cross training with Alex has already been completed. A CFI with 350 hours of RV10 time, and 4900 hours total time would be doing the signoff. Don -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238421#238421 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Headsets
Date: Apr 15, 2009
RE: RV10-List: Phase IGuys I am looking at getting 2 David Clark H 10 -13 4 headsets and I see that a stereo model is available. It isnt much more in price and was wondering if anyone thinks it is worth getting over the standard model. Shall import them from USA as the prices here are rediculous! Chris VH-ICY ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Headsets
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
The answer is, "How is your plane wired?" If you have stereo jacks in place, then using mono headphones will result in shorting out one channel (which your audio panel should but may not handle okay). When you play music, you'll only hear one side of the music (but in both ears). If you have mono jacks in place, then with stereo phones you will hear no sound in one ear. Many headphones have switches to semi-fix these problems (e.g., convert stereo headphones to mono); there are also adapters available. I'm wiring for stereo; with CD's, XM, etc., I can tell a small improvement with stereo vs mono in the sound quality of the music. Of course, for the radio and intercom, it makes no difference. So it only matters for stereo music. One small note: The original Garmin audio panels were wired in such a way that they are "fail safe", e.g., if the audio panel power is turned off, you can still hear the #1 com - but this only works if you have a stereo headset! (Or use a stereo to mono adapter). -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239200#239200 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Closed switches
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Hey John, Distance between the door magnet and compass in my installation is around 10". YMMV, but I would not locate any avionics/instruments that are sensitive to magnetic fields within 18" of the magnets. Cheers, Ron ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 3:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches So Ron, what distance did you determine should be maintained as a minimum? John 40315 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 2:04 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Guys, I was not looking for a debate on whether I should have a door ajar annunciator or not. I decided long ago that I would have such a warning. I am days from first flight and have NO interest in removing the capability. The reed relay solution is entirely appropriate and should not be subject to many (if any) mechanical failure modes. I just should have thought a bit more about the magnets relative to the more sensitive instruments in the panel and have posted so that others who CHOOSE to go down this path do not make the same mistake. To my knowledge, the magnets/reed relay/annunciator are a standard inclusion in the kit these days. Ron ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Tuesday, 14 April 2009 1:16 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Closed switches also the three fatal crashes of RV10s did not involve an unclosed door. You note that the NTSB report confirms doors found in the crash site. I specifically asked the question of the NTSB investigator for 210HM. The only door opening that came close to a fatal was 415EC? (IIRC) and it may have had some other damage prior to door separation. ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Ron you could also just check the door is shut Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches Well here's another one for the books. My airpath compass is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand. The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less than 12" from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the interference zone of the door magnet. Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any designs/installation instructions?? Cheers, Ron -187 Finalising ADs and paperwork. "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. 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Subject: Phase I
Date: Apr 14, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sometimes the tree of life prunes others at the same time... From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 1:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Phase I Hey Michael......"The tree of life can be self pruning". John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tue 4/14/2009 1:18 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Phase I I would strongly recommend against it as a RV-10 is a much different beast than a trainer aircraft and it's a lot easier to get behind in a -10 than a trainer. Also, don't forget you need an HP endorsement under FAR 61.31(f) which is something, in my opinion, no instructor should be giving to a student pilot. http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgFar.nsf/FARSBySectL ookup/61.31 Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [ mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14 Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 10:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Phase I Is it possible/legal as a student pilot to be signed off for solo flight in ones own RV10 during the fly off of phase I? That would enable the checkride to be performed in the RV10 as well. Cross training with Alex has already been completed. A CFI with 350 hours of RV10 time, and 4900 hours total time would be doing the signoff. Don -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238421#238421 http://www.matronic--> http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/> p; - List Contribution bsp; -Matt Dralle, List href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Headsets
Date: Apr 15, 2009
Thanks Bob great answer I am upgrading my poverty panel as well and will be putting in a Garmin GMA 340 audio panel which I believe is stereo but will find out regards chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 9:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Headsets > > The answer is, "How is your plane wired?" > If you have stereo jacks in place, then using mono headphones will result > in shorting out one channel (which your audio panel should but may not > handle okay). When you play music, you'll only hear one side of the music > (but in both ears). > > If you have mono jacks in place, then with stereo phones you will hear no > sound in one ear. > > Many headphones have switches to semi-fix these problems (e.g., convert > stereo headphones to mono); there are also adapters available. > > I'm wiring for stereo; with CD's, XM, etc., I can tell a small improvement > with stereo vs mono in the sound quality of the music. Of course, for the > radio and intercom, it makes no difference. So it only matters for stereo > music. > > One small note: The original Garmin audio panels were wired in such a way > that they are "fail safe", e.g., if the audio panel power is turned off, > you can still hear the #1 com - but this only works if you have a stereo > headset! (Or use a stereo to mono adapter). > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239200#239200 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Headsets
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
The Garmin 340 does support stereo music. It's also the panel I referred to - the "fail safe" com 1 radio goes to the ring, or middle, connector, so it will fail to be fail safe if you use a mono plug! I have flown behind both the 340 and the PS8000 panel (same plane). If you are really interested in music, the PS8000 is audibly superior (and I am not a music critic) even in a noisy airplane. If you're not all that into music, they perform pretty much the same otherwise (Garmin has a manual intercom squelch but in my experience it worked just fine) and the 340 is less expensive. I also much prefer how the PS panel lets you switch the music between front and rear. The newer Garmin panel (347?) imitates the PS8000 in this and other ways. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239225#239225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Phase I
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Closed switches or not
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Amen: The 10 should have front hinged doors like Piper - muuuccch safer -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - FWF end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239262#239262 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rubberized baffle seal material - how much
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
How many inches of the cowl seal material should extend above the aluminum baffle material? >From looking at the pics that I took at OSH it seems that to leave about 3" extended is the standard. Seems like a lot or is that the norm? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - FWF end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239265#239265 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aircraft Door Seals vs Vans seal
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Has anyone purchase the product sold by: AircraftDoorSeals.com Also - did you put it on the door or the frame? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - FWF end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239268#239268 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2009
Subject: Re: Aircraft Door Seals vs Vans seal
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I have their initial product on the frame of my Mooney. I obtained and will install their newer product on the door. On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 9:25 PM, AirMike wrote: > > Has anyone purchase the product sold by: > > AircraftDoorSeals.com > > Also - did you put it on the door or the frame? > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - FWF end game > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239268#239268 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin. This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the fuselage skin. I am looking for comments. First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper. Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone. Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45. Allow to cure over night. Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots Sand and refill until smooth and fair. Larry Rosen #356 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the fiberglass strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window joints). My opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any cracking along the pop riveted seams, and the application of the fiberglass cloth is only to help hide/minimize this potential. It also adds to the buildup and makes fairing/blending a little more difficult. with the windows, your basically blending /fairing only in one direction - away from the window. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done.... http://deemsrv10.com/ Larry Rosen wrote: > > I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now > I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin. > This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also > going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the > fuselage skin. I am looking for comments. > > First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper. > Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone. > Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low > spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low > Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 > strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45. > Allow to cure over night. > Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots > Sand and refill until smooth and fair. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
Date: Apr 15, 2009
Looks good, I did the same thing except skipped the cloth as I have my ideas of cloth on aluminum causing cracks in the paint later. I just filled with epoxy and flox/cabosil, sanded and final coat epoxy cabosil, probably no different than the cloth in regards to cracking the paint later but that's what I did. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry Rosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 7:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin > > I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now I > need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin. This is > the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also going to use > the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the fuselage skin. > I am looking for comments. > > First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper. > Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone. > Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low spots. I > will keep this fill about 1/8" low > Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 strips > of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45. > Allow to cure over night. > Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots > Sand and refill until smooth and fair. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
Deems, Did you cover up both rivet lines (the pop rivets to the cabin top and the solid rivets to the bulk head? Larry Deems Davis wrote: > > Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the > fiberglass strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window > joints). My opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any cracking > along the pop riveted seams, and the application of the fiberglass > cloth is only to help hide/minimize this potential. It also adds to > the buildup and makes fairing/blending a little more difficult. with > the windows, your basically blending /fairing only in one direction - > away from the window. > > Deems Davis # 406 > 'Its all done.... > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Larry Rosen wrote: >> >> I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and >> now I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum >> skin. This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I >> am also going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin >> top the the fuselage skin. I am looking for comments. >> >> First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper. >> Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone. >> Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low >> spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low >> Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 >> strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45. >> Allow to cure over night. >> Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots >> Sand and refill until smooth and fair. >> >> Larry Rosen >> #356 >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
Yes Deems Larry Rosen wrote: > > Deems, > Did you cover up both rivet lines (the pop rivets to the cabin top and > the solid rivets to the bulk head? > > Larry > > Deems Davis wrote: >> >> Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the >> fiberglass strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window >> joints). My opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any >> cracking along the pop riveted seams, and the application of the >> fiberglass cloth is only to help hide/minimize this potential. It >> also adds to the buildup and makes fairing/blending a little more >> difficult. with the windows, your basically blending /fairing only >> in one direction - away from the window. >> >> Deems Davis # 406 >> 'Its all done.... >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> Larry Rosen wrote: >>>


March 30, 2009 - April 16, 2009

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