RV10-Archive.digest.vol-em
April 30, 2009 - May 17, 2009
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands
or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase considerations |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
Guys & Gals,
I (I'm a builder) have an IO-540 (100 hrs since overhaul and new crank).
It has 270 HP and all the accessories. It had a propstrike and was
removed from a Lancair Legacy that bellied in (the owner now wants a
turbine). It will have been fully inspected by The New Firewall Forward,
it will be re-certified, will have a 4 year warranty on the cam &
lifters, and will be run on the dyno for 2 hours. Since the rings
weren't removed, no break-in will be required.
It can be had for less than $30K.
Tom Lawson
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIzQZQ4eLwbklvZg1bs7ciP7folMwvwcpd5oKyqLKdegXKMtIOJvK/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where the aer
alon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble. Thanks again
. Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install
> From: lenard(at)rapiddecision.com
> Date: Thu=2C 30 Apr 2009 11:43:58 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Dan=2C
>
> Linn's photo is of the elevator mounting of the Trio servo.
>
> Lenny
>
> --------
> Regards=2C
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242126#242126
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Updates2_042009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | random rivet hole in fuel tank |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to baffle
on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the machine countersunk
holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I can't find in the plans
what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't
show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
I don't remember if both the skin and the baffle have the extra hole,
or just one or the other. It just gets a normal rivet.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 30, 2009, at 4:39 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank
> skin to baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the
> rest of the machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on
> the bottom. I can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it
> gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in
> the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I'm not there yet, but they do sell a nice black anodized roll servo bracket.
I wish they would have given us a smilar bracket for the picth servo...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242171#242171
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/roll_servo_bracket_637.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Danny, Trio has a nifty bracket for the RV-10 aileron connection ......
saw it at Sun-N-Fun ..... and they wouldn't turn their back on it! It
does have a really short connecting tube.
Linn
Danny Riggs wrote:
> You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where
> the aeralon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble.
> Thanks again. Dan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
Rick S.
40185
------Original Message------
From: Strasnuts
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to baffle
on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the machine countersunk
holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I can't find in the plans
what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't
show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase considerations |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Okay. I've resisted, but it's the end of the day - so what the heck . . . I think
this post is getting a little off course, so I'm going to give my own two
cents, and that may be all it's worth :-)
The fact of the matter is that you can find an engine for a wide variety of prices.
If you are one of the individuals that happens upon a good mid-time engine
that is in good shape, that's great. Most of the engines that are available
from a company like Wentworth are coming from a damaged plane. Make no mistake,
they are a salvage dealer. Some are okay, some are not. You take your chances
with an engine like this, and that is your decision as the builder. Kudos
to those that get a good one!
But, buying a core (getting harder to do) and overhaul costs vary significantly
depending on the quality of the engine builder, if they use service limit parts,
if they install overhauled cylinders and/or reject parts (like crankshafts
people!!), if they have the tools, testing equipment, overhaul data and a significant
number of other variables.
>From our shop, an engine overhauled to factory new limits isn't much less than
a new engine. Everyone has their own needs, budget and performance alike. We
have folks that have factory engines drop shipped to us on a regular basis for
testing, balancing and blue-printing, high performance mods, and you do find
some "interesting" things from time-to-time.
Two quick side notes, I don't believe Lycoming says 1 qt. of oil leakage in 5 hours
is acceptable. I believe they say 1 qt usage in 5 hours is. Also, someone
made the statement about the adverse affects of porting/flow matching - you
can over port cylinders which will result in negative affects in terms of reliability
and performance. One pilot I know whose engine was built by another
shop recently told me he's losing compressions after about 5 hours of run time
on his engine. This may be a result of over porting.
Everybody have a great night . . . flame on!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 12:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Engine purchase considerations
Bob said
"Most of the folks that went with a rebuild ended up spending 80-90% of new and
had a slew of headaches and/or issues that wouldnt have happened with a new engine.
"
I have to challenge you one this one. There is a very strong rebuild market out
there and they wouldn't be in business if your statement was close to correct.
Most of the certified aircraft go for rebuilds at TBO. The other posts indicate
that you can get an engine for less than 50% of a new one. The worst oil
leak I saw on an engine was a brand new out-of-the-box Lyc. They say that
1 quart leak every 5 hours is "within limits".
Resale considerations are only for those that plan on selling and truly factor
cost/benefit into the equation. After all, a used airplane is a used airplane.
Would the actual sale price be $20,000 higher if you installed a new engine
in an airplane that now has 500 hours? Will you get $250 more because you installed
an Andair fuel valve or $500 more because you installed a throttle quadrant
or $3000 more because of the leather seats? I don't think so. IMHO the
best strategy strictly for resale profit is straight plans built, a rebuilt engine
and prop, second hand good avionics, local upholstery and a home paint job.
But who really wants to do just this? In the end you should spend what you
can afford and be able to live with decisions you made and not second guess
yourself. Go for the BPE engine if that is what you want. Or not.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242108#242108
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Look on the other side of the baffle...you will see the "other" hole
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:01:12
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Sean,
In looking at 18-5, I see what you are referring to.
Get use to it, it only gets worse as you progress. The plans start
assuming that you know what you are doing and start leaving out steps or not
totally correct illustrations. You'll find yourself having to read ahead
in the plans to get answers to some of things that aren't clearly
documented. The wing plans aren't too bad. I find that I'm spending
significantly more time with the fuselage plans studying things before I
actually start the task.
Yes, just put a rivet in it.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
One thing I haven't really seen mentioned is why micro is a bad idea for
anything structural or that takes a beating and some people might not know.
Microballoons are just that, little hollow glass or phenolic spheres that
are mostly air. This is why they are so light and can be sanded easy, but
unfortunately adding a mostly air filler to a structure will just weaken i
t. The primary exception to this is when you are preparing foam for compos
ite work but I won't go there. :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening
. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it
needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro
will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep
it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if y
ou haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 an
d 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more
: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselag
e. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I
can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall n
ear the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by
the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habi
t of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being
right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of st
ructural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quanti
ty. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or f
ilaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich"
destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at D
ave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakeni
ng it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tend
s to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Thanks Bob,
I don't know what I'm doing, it's just a good thing I have this forum to
bounce questions off of.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Sean,
>
> In looking at 18-5, I see what you are referring to.
>
> Get use to it, it only gets worse as you progress. The plans start
> assuming that you know what you are doing and start leaving out steps or
> not
> totally correct illustrations. You'll find yourself having to read ahead
> in the plans to get answers to some of things that aren't clearly
> documented. The wing plans aren't too bad. I find that I'm spending
> significantly more time with the fuselage plans studying things before I
> actually start the task.
>
> Yes, just put a rivet in it.
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:01 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
> rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
>
> thanks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
> To: "Rv"
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
>>
>> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>>
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>> ------Original Message------
>> From: Strasnuts
>> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> To: Rv
>> ReplyTo: Rv
>> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>>
>>
>> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin
>> to
>
>> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
>> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
>> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
>> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
>> know what this is?
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> A&P, ATP
>> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
>> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Gleixner <aarongleixner(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it.- I called-my insurance broker that is currently insuri
ng my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to pro
vide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10.--Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV?
- Have you been able to-insure a 5 seat RV?- Did you-register the p
lane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?-
-
Aaron-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
Aaron i am not sure of the rules over their however you can put 5 people
in a 4 seater if the extra person is under a ....not sure it is weight
or age?? So you could insure it as a 4 seater , carry the extra kid for
a while anyway.
not sure this will help
Chris ICY
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Gleixner
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 10:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench
seat in the back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next
few years until they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is
currently insuring my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance
companies willing to provide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone
else have a 5 seat RV? Have you been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did
you register the plane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring my
RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have you
been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat or
a 5 seat?
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I'll echo Les' comments.... great class, very informative, and it was fun t
o
met Les and a bunch of other RV-10 builders. The basics were good for me,
having no experience with composites; however, the real value was walking
through all the RV-10-specific stuff. We just finished trimming the cabin
cover, and it was definitely faster and we had more confidence, having seen
it done before.
-Rob
On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 11:55 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> I took Dave=92s class last fall and it was well worth the trip to
> Watsonville, even from Alberta Canada. The nice wx didn=92t hurt either.
>
>
> Dave=92s crew can fit a top so expertly that it will make you cry when yo
u
> see how simple they make it seem. Dave also gives =93lifetime tech suppor
t=94
> for people who take his class.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 ' some assembly required
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* April-30-09 12:19 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door
> opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regular
ly
> so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers.
> Micro will crack and chip.
>
>
> Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to kee
p
> it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if
> you haven't already.
>
>
> And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9
> and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and
> more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
>
>
> We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the
> fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no
> charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
>
>
> Thanks John!
>
>
> Dave Saylor
>
> AirCrafters LLC
>
> 140 Aviation Way
>
> Watsonville, CA
>
> 831-722-9141
>
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
> Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall
> near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done
by
> the dozens.
>
>
> To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long
> habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of
> being right".
>
>
> Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
> structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
> quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, stra
nds
> or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
> Rich" destroys that objective.
>
>
> This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
> Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
> weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob and Karen Brown
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> It=92s not thick enough. Add more micro.
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny Riggs
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when place
d
> on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still te
nds
> to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan**
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I don't agree that a bench seat automatically means it's a 5 seat aircraf
t. I also don't see that putting three kids in the back is necessarily a v
iolation of the oplims as long as you have a way to properly restrain every
one and don't exceed weights or CG's. I'm sure there are people wiser than
me in the regs that can chime in though, just my opinion and has no basis
in legal fact. :)
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring m
y RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have yo
u been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat
or a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put the
B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
I put mine up next to the brake reservoir. I didn't need any tabs on the firewall
side, dedicated grounds ran into the cabin using bulkhead AMP connectors. The
engine is also grounded to the same tab plate through the 3/8 mounting bolt.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 18:10:20
Subject: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put the
B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
I know this may be a dead horse but if you look at the baffles you will see three
very close holes on the bottom of the tank side of the baffle and only two
directly above it on the top side of the baffle...the "extra" hole indicates the
bottom of the baffle and the skins correspond accordingly....IIRC
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:01:12
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You
can locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the
cockpit side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you
make in the instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
Rob Kochman wrote:
> I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put
> the common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to
> put the B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the
> firewall, as described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the
> plans (except for the grounds, I suppose).
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Yep,
I definitely realized the top and bottom of the baffle to the skin and the three
close holes. The problem was the plans had no rivet in the middle of the three
close holes. I thought maybe I shouldn't be countersinking this hole but
realized it was missed in the rivet layout. You have to look extremely close
at the rivet layout to notice the hole without a rivet designation.
Thanks for responding though.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242225#242225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Okay thanks. I bought the complete kit from Trio (Hi Jerry!). It just seeme
d that the connecting rod was REALLY short. I want to get it correct before
I put the last skin on the wing as it will infinitely harder to make adjus
tments once its riveted down. The mounting bracket is pretty nice. wish the
y had one for the pitch. However that will be relatively easy to fab. Dan
> Date: Thu=2C 30 Apr 2009 17:58:28 -0400
> From: pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install
>
>
> Danny=2C Trio has a nifty bracket for the RV-10 aileron connection ......
> saw it at Sun-N-Fun ..... and they wouldn't turn their back on it! It
> does have a really short connecting tube.
> Linn
>
> Danny Riggs wrote:
> > You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where
> > the aeralon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble.
> > Thanks again. Dan
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Storage2_042009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The question sounds like ...."Has anyone successfully gotten the FAA to app
roved a four POB amateur built kit single engine aircraft as a five in thei
r Ops Limitation?"
I know of several pilots who have ignored the limitation cause the weight w
as within W&B and flew with five soles. The policy becomes automatically v
oidable. Someone should ask Sky Smith.
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thu 4/30/2009 6:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I don't agree that a bench seat automatically means it's a 5 seat aircraf
t. I also don't see that putting three kids in the back is necessarily a v
iolation of the oplims as long as you have a way to properly restrain every
one and don't exceed weights or CG's. I'm sure there are people wiser than
me in the regs that can chime in though, just my opinion and has no basis
in legal fact. J
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring m
y RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have yo
u been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat
or a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Maybe a good time to make a few friends in the Velocity crowd and ask a few
pointed questions.
Velocity advertizes a 5-place version of the XL. If memory serves, there is
no change to the airframe - just bucket seats out, bench seat in, add a
belt. And obey the W&B chart.
neal
==============
The question sounds like ...."Has anyone successfully gotten the FAA to
approved a four POB amateur built kit single engine aircraft as a five in
their Ops Limitation?"
I know of several pilots who have ignored the limitation cause the weight
was within W&B and flew with five soles. The policy becomes automatically
voidable. Someone should ask Sky Smith.
John Cox
============
I don't agree that a bench seat automatically means it's a 5 seat aircraft.
I also don't see that putting three kids in the back is necessarily a
violation of the oplims as long as you have a way to properly restrain
everyone and don't exceed weights or CG's. I'm sure there are people wiser
than me in the regs that can chime in though, just my opinion and has no
basis in legal fact. J
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
You might want to read subpart B flight rules ,91.107
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/30/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 7:42 PM
=0A=0A =0AI think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T =0ATELL.
=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-l
ist-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron =0AGleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat =0ARV-10
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A =0A I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and
have built a bench seat =0A in the back to fly my three young daughte
rs at least for the next few =0A years until they outgrow it.- I cal
led-my insurance broker that =0A is currently insuring my RV-8A, and
they said there were no insurance =0A companies willing to provide in
surance for a 5 seat RV-10.--Does =0A anyone else have a 5 seat RV
?- Have you been able to-insure a 5 =0A seat RV?- Did you-regi
ster the plane as a 4 seat or a 5 =0A seat?- =0A -=0A Aa
ron-
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
who is the manufacturer of the aircraft? who determines approved seating
Certainly not Vans or the FAA
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
You might want to read subpart B flight rules ,91.107
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/30/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 7:42 PM
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring my
RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have you
been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat or
a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I think it is how it is registered..just my opinion..
See the number of 5 seaters...also the number of 2 seaters?
http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/acftinqSQL.asp?striptxt=RV10&mfrtxt
&modeltxt=RV-10&cmndfind.x=16&cmndfind.y=16
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
who is the manufacturer of the aircraft? who determines approved seating
Certainly not Vans or the FAA
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
You might want to read subpart B flight rules ,91.107
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/30/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 7:42 PM
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring my
RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have you
been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat or
a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
I believe that is just there to let you kinow you have the baffle in the
right way...not upside down. Its only on the bottom. Machine and rivit it
with the rest.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
As kind of an outsider looking in, it seems that it doesn't matter at all w
hat the FAA regs say,=C2-the insurance company will say and do whatever t
hey want to better their position.=C2- If they can invent something that
keeps them from paying off, they will.
If the only accidents we had concerning the RV10 involved pilots with hours
in excess of 2,000 hours, who do you think the rate increase would fall on
....... I suspect it would be the new or low time pilot.
Don
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Rene Felker wrote:
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 7:27 AM
I think it is how it is registered.just my opinion
=C2-
See the number of 5 seaters..also the number of 2 seaters?
=C2-
=C2-
http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/acftinqSQL.asp?striptxt=RV10&mfrt
xt=&modeltxt=RV-10&cmndfind.x=16&cmndfind.y=16
=C2-
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
=C2-
who is the manufacturer of the aircraft? who determines approved seating Ce
rtainly not Vans or the FAA
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
You might want to read subpart B flight rules ,91.107
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/30/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 7:42 PM
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it.=C2- I called=C2-my insurance broker that is currently
insuring my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing
to provide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10.=C2-=C2-Does anyone else have a
5 seat RV?=C2- Have you been able to=C2-insure a 5 seat RV?=C2- Did
you=C2-register the plane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?=C2-
=C2-
Aaron=C2-
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=C2- =C2-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://w
ww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">ht
tp://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">htt
p://www.matronics.com/c =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1
0-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2
-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
Whoa, nothing like a gang stomp when one is wrong, lol. I apologize for
making the incorrect suggestion on the micro issue. I wasn't weighing in on
the appropriate of use issue (micro vs cabosil or other additives) in the
mixture, only answering the original question which was posed as a lack of
viscosity in a micro/flox mixture, where if you want more resistance to
flow, you'd add more micro. I'd be interested to know if there are ranges
of blends where specific physical qualities of additives are varied in a
wider mix blend range, ie, flox/mico/cabosil or micro/chopped silica or
flox/chopped silica etc. Generally as technologies evolve, they evolve in
the direction of more complex mixes of previously known materials.
Thanks to everyone for posting the correct material of choice in the doore
edge application. I'll also add that if you REALLY need resistance to
impact, I used to sell an additive to the automotive paint industry that
makes paint more impact resistant, and it follows the same logic laid out
above for why (one of the reasons) cabosil is recommended to be used rather
than micro, and that is density. Though the specific gravity of the base
material in Cabosil is the same as micro (about 2.4) , volume for volume
cabosil is more dense than micro, as micro is mostly air.
The material that is used by the automotive paint industry to add impact
(chip) resistance to both one part and two part paints is a fine grind of
barium sulfate (barite). It also has the side benefit of adding more
brilliance to any color and reducing the amount of pigment needed for any
color. Barite is what makes paint heavy. Barite replaced calcium carbonate
in this application even though it is much more expensive. Silica has a
specific gravity of about 2.4, barite has a specific gravity of 4.3. That
difference in density of the additive makes the final paint it more
resistant to chipping and impact. Fine barite is also a common additive in
sound insulation on aircraft, where its high density also reduces
transmitted sound and allows a thin heavy layer of insulation to deaden
sound more effectively than a thicker, less dense material. More useless
but interesting information.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
One thing I haven't really seen mentioned is why micro is a bad idea for
anything structural or that takes a beating and some people might not know.
Microballoons are just that, little hollow glass or phenolic spheres that
are mostly air. This is why they are so light and can be sanded easy, but
unfortunately adding a mostly air filler to a structure will just weaken it.
The primary exception to this is when you are preparing foam for composite
work but I won't go there. J
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening.
The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it
needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro
will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep
it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if
you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and
10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the
fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no
charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall
near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by
the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit
of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being
right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands
or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
&bsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum
-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.=
=============
< Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/
con
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Still wondering if anyone got their DAR to approve 5 soles for a 4 POB
kit (Who specifically?). Also wondering which insurance company accepts
5 POB regardless of being under gross weight? Testing for the approval
of the kit (N410RV) was done 4 POB and not to exceed 260hp at 2700 lbs.
The EAA tends to say a modification not to exceed 10% is within the Ops
Limit to avoid a new Phase ONE requirement. Isn't there a disclaimer
that the manufacturer did 51% of the tasks and complied with the kit
(parts) fabricators FAA approval process?
There are lots of things done in the real world of a questionable
ethical nature which make a policy voidable. Often the underwriter
looks the other way to clear the claim when it was not blatant. The
underwriter knows the claim payout is spread over the remain policy
holders in the years ahead.
My cowl design should allow for angle valve Lycoming heads and roller
lifters and twin turbo mods which will clearly be over the fence on the
original N410RV.
Dave, you know it's the DAR who approves the Limitations within their
limited authority. It is the FAA that grants final issuance and it is
the boldness of the builder/manufacturer who asks for an insurance
policy to provide a financial cushion to the surviving family/estate
members. Doing it and getting insurance after FAA approval is a
question worth listening for the answer.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 7:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I think it is how it is registered....just my opinion......
See the number of 5 seaters.....also the number of 2 seaters?
http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/acftinqSQL.asp?striptxt=RV10&mf
r
txt=&modeltxt=RV-10&cmndfind.x=16&cmndfind.y=16
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
who is the manufacturer of the aircraft? who determines approved seating
Certainly not Vans or the FAA
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
You might want to read subpart B flight rules ,91.107
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/30/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 7:42 PM
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in
the back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years
until they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently
insuring my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies
willing to provide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have
a 5 seat RV? Have you been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you
register the plane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
Rob,
I put mine of the inside of the firewall on the far left and ran a #2 ground
from the rear battery. On the engine side I ran a braided cable from the
mounting bolt to the engine. There was really nothing to ground on the
engine side of the firewall. As it ended up most of the grounds came from
the avionics and I put 3 10-tab ground 'buses' (got from Stein) next to/on
the avionics stack.
John Testement
N311RV flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You can
locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the cockpit
side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you make in the
instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
Rob Kochman wrote:
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put the
B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06:37:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
There are a number of potential items on the engine side of the firewall
are pressure senders, pressure switches, hall effect current sensor,
tach generator for RPM pickup, etc. Depending on your installation you
might have all, none or any combination. Also, some sensors will ground
through the case and others have a ground wire. I think I've got 4
items grounded on the engine side of the firewall.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 2:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
Rob,
I put mine of the inside of the firewall on the far left and ran a #2
ground from the rear battery. On the engine side I ran a braided cable
from the mounting bolt to the engine. There was really nothing to ground
on the engine side of the firewall. As it ended up most of the grounds
came from the avionics and I put 3 10-tab ground 'buses' (got from
Stein) next to/on the avionics stack.
John Testement
N311RV flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You
can locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the
cockpit side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you
make in the instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
Rob Kochman wrote:
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put
the B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except
for the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/29/09 06:37:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails have started!
I've already talked to both Gary and Tim and we'll again facilitate getting
a group of camp sites together for RV-10 folks. It's still a bit early for
detailed planning but I'll be posting here and Tim will be supporting via his
web site with contact lists, calendar, etc.
Here's the info available so far:
- There will be a single group instead of two groups like last year
- Sites will be staked out about a week prior to show start; don't know the exact
date yet
- Cost is simply the cost of the camping sites * the number of days from when staked
until the end of the show. You pay in advance from the day the sites are
staked out until the end of the show. Cost this year is $21 per night and we
have traditionally staked them out the Sunday or Monday a week before show start
(last year was 13 nights). You pay me in advance and sites will be paid
for by check when they get staked out. EAA refunds the full amount for unused
days directly to you as you leave the campground if you leave early.
- There are usually at least a couple nights where we've had a big cookout and
put out a voluntary money jar to offset food cost. We have excess money left
from last year so there will again be a dedicated site to have a large open area
for gathering.
- Tim will post relevant info on his website. If you want to split the cost of the site because you are going to leave early or come late, that is where you'll find others to coordinate with. Some info from last year: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
- We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's available
when we get there but it will be in the same area that we've been the last few
years which is immediately south of Pauls Park in Camp Scholler.
- Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of the camper,
tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether youve got kids, etc. If you dont like the
location you can swap around when you get there.
- Well have your car pass, etc. at one of our sites and you simply call when you
get close and well meet you at the registration gate.
Besides being a great social environment, you get to interact with builders at
all stages and even some vendors and other notables. Stein showed up with free
tee shirts and hats one evening last year!
Ill post more info in a few weeks when it gets closer.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242332#242332
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sorry, don't remember the exact question. Not a factor for me since
I've got the stock seat configuration.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Question, On your insurance form did they ask if you modified my plane
from vans plan? Mine did and I answered accordingly. I would certainly
say adding a fifth seat is a modification. or fifth seatbelt. Since
every one on board has to have their own with exception of child under
2yrs.
Just my reading of FARS Not EAA.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
wrote:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 12:44 PM
Happy to share John, but will point out that the registration process is
where things get fouled up - it's the clerk that reads the info from the
multi-part carbon (not kidding here) form and enters into to the DB.
The DAR I used was a retired FSDO employee that does contract work for
them in addition to offering DAR services. She was getting ready to
head over to the UK to inspect some mods to a biz jet the week after she
did my plane. The insurance paperwork simply asks for number of seats
which means (to me anyway) that they care about how many seats you
actually have, not how the plane is registered. You see a lot of
military aeroclubs that remove a couple seats for insurance purposes
since they focus mostly on flight training.
I made a call when I discovered the issue but it seems like once the
info is there it's a huge amount of effort to change. You'll also note
that the manufacturer field just has my last name even though my full
name was on the form and most other planes list full names.
DAR was Donna Basgall, #DARF830505CE and my insurance is via SkySmith.
Bob
N442PM (flying for a year now!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Thats ok I was just putting it out there for the group to think. I also hav
e 4 seats but wanted 12500lbs just to see what they would do, but did not w
ant to have to get another type rating,& Hassle with big brother. so I just
said 2800lbs. I got my insurance for $2400 for 150k hull and rest is usual
. Eaa falconcrest group.
Crazy thing is I got my C-310 for $2370 for the same coverage. go figure.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrot
e:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 3:39 PM
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ASorry, don=99t re
member the exact question.=C2-=0ANot a factor for me since I=99ve g
ot the stock seat configuration. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0ABob =0A=0A =C2- =0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom:=0Aowner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[
mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On=0ABehalf Of Patrick Thyssen
=0ASent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:27 PM
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat=0ARV-10 =0A=0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A
=0A Question, On your insurance form did they ask if you modified my plane
from=0A vans plan? Mine did and I answered accordingly. I would certainly
say adding=0A a fifth seat is a modification. or fifth seatbelt. Since ev
ery one on board=0A has to have their own with exception of child under 2y
rs.
=0A =C2-Just my reading of FARS Not EAA.
=0A Patrick Thyssen
=0A --- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (=0A US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.
com>=0A wrote: =0A
=0A From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
=0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0A Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 12:44 PM =0A =0A =0A Happy to share John
, but will point out that the registration=0A process is where things get
fouled up =93 it=99s the clerk that reads the info=0A from the
multi-part carbon (not kidding here) form and enters into to the=0A DB.
=C2- The DAR I used was a retired FSDO employee that does contract work
=0A for them in addition to offering DAR services.=C2- She was getting r
eady to=0A head over to the UK =0A to inspect some mods to a biz jet the
week after she did my plane.=C2- The=0A insurance paperwork simply asks
for number of seats which means (to me=0A anyway) that they care about how
many seats you actually have, not how the=0A plane is registered.=C2- Y
ou see a lot of military aeroclubs that remove a=0A couple seats for insur
ance purposes since they focus mostly on flight=0A training. =0A =C2-
=0A I made a call when I discovered the issue but it seems like once=0A t
he info is there it=99s a huge amount of effort to change.=C2- You
=99ll also=0A note that the manufacturer field just has my last name
even though my full name=0A was on the form and most other planes list fu
ll names. =0A =C2- =0A DAR was Donna Basgall, #DARF830505CE and my insu
rance is via=0A SkySmith. =0A =C2- =0A Bob =0A =C2- =0A N442PM (fl
ying for a year now!) =0A =0A =0A =C2- =0A =0A =0A =0A =C2- =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
Your insurance cost is lower than mine - do you have ground hull
coverage or full coverage? Mine is $3600 for full coverage, 150k hull.
Kevin Belue
RV6A
RV10
Sent from my iPhone
On May 1, 2009, at 4:13 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
> Thats ok I was just putting it out there for the group to think. I
> also have 4 seats but wanted 12500lbs just to see what they would
> do, but did not want to have to get another type rating,& Hassle
> with big brother. so I just said 2800lbs. I got my insurance for
> $2400 for 150k hull and rest is usual. Eaa falconcrest group.
> Crazy thing is I got my C-310 for $2370 for the same coverage. go
> figure.
> Patrick Thyssen
>
>
> --- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
> wrote:
>
> From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 3:39 PM
>
> Sorry, don=99t remember the exact question. Not a factor for me
since
> I=99ve got the stock seat configuration.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:27 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
>
>
> Question, On your insurance form did they ask if you modified my
> plane from vans plan? Mine did and I answered accordingly. I would
> certainly say adding a fifth seat is a modification. or fifth
> seatbelt. Since every one on board has to have their own with
> exception of child under 2yrs.
> Just my reading of FARS Not EAA.
> Patrick Thyssen
> --- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob ( US SSA)
> wrote:
>
>
> From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 12:44 PM
>
> Happy to share John, but will point out that the registration
> process is where things get fouled up =93 it=99s the clerk
that reads
> the info from the multi-part carbon (not kidding here) form and ente
> rs into to the DB. The DAR I used was a retired FSDO employee that
> does contract work for them in addition to offering DAR services. S
> he was getting ready to head over to the UK to inspect some mods to
> a biz jet the week after she did my plane. The insurance paperwork
> simply asks for number of seats which means (to me anyway) that they
> care about how many seats you actually have, not how the plane is r
> egistered. You see a lot of military aeroclubs that remove a couple
> seats for insurance purposes since they focus mostly on flight trai
> ning.
>
>
> I made a call when I discovered the issue but it seems like once the
> info is there it=99s a huge amount of effort to change.
You=99ll
> also note that the manufacturer field just has my last name even tho
> ugh my full name was on the form and most other planes list full nam
> es.
>
>
> DAR was Donna Basgall, #DARF830505CE and my insurance is via SkySmith.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> N442PM (flying for a year now!)
>
>
> http://www.matron="nofollow" target="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com
> ">http:/======================
=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
They both have full coverage. Been with falcon for 15+ yrs. RV 150k and 310
=C2- 155k. Enough time and no incidents in last 6 yrs. AP=C2- IA ATP
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Kevin Belue wrote:
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 4:32 PM
=0A=0AYour insurance cost is lower than mine - do you have ground hull cove
rage or full coverage? Mine is $3600 for full coverage, 150k hull.
Kevin BelueRV6ARV10
Sent from my iPhone
On May 1, 2009, at 4:13 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
Thats ok I was just putting it out there for the group to think. I also hav
e 4 seats but wanted 12500lbs just to see what they would do, but did not w
ant to have to get another type rating,& Hassle with big brother. so I just
said 2800lbs. I got my insurance for $2400 for 150k hull and rest is usual
. Eaa falconcrest group.
Crazy thing is I got my C-310 for $2370 for the same coverage. go figure.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrot
e:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 3:39 PM
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ASorry, don=99t remember
the exact question.=C2-=0ANot a factor for me since I=99ve got the
stock seat configuration. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0ABob =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom:=0Aowner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto
:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On=0ABehalf Of Patrick Thyssen
=0ASent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:27 PM
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat=0ARV-10 =0A=0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A
=0A Question, On your insurance form did they ask if you modified my plane
from=0A vans plan? Mine did and I answered accordingly. I would certainly
say adding=0A a fifth seat is a modification. or fifth seatbelt. Since ev
ery one on board=0A has to have their own with exception of child under 2y
rs.
=0A =C2-Just my reading of FARS Not EAA.
=0A Patrick Thyssen
=0A --- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (=0A US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.
com>=0A wrote: =0A
=0A From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
=0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0A Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 12:44 PM =0A =0A =0A Happy to share John
, but will point out that the registration=0A process is where things get
fouled up =93 it=99s the clerk that reads the info=0A from the
multi-part carbon (not kidding here) form and enters into to the=0A DB.
=C2- The DAR I used was a retired FSDO employee that does contract work
=0A for them in addition to offering DAR services.=C2- She was getting r
eady to=0A head over to the UK =0A to inspect some mods to a biz jet the
week after she did my plane.=C2- The=0A insurance paperwork simply asks
for number of seats which means (to me=0A anyway) that they care about how
many seats you actually have, not how the=0A plane is registered.=C2- Y
ou see a lot of military aeroclubs that remove a=0A couple seats for insur
ance purposes since they focus mostly on flight=0A training. =0A =C2-
=0A I made a call when I discovered the issue but it seems like once=0A t
he info is there it=99s a huge amount of effort to change.=C2- You
=99ll also=0A note that the manufacturer field just has my last name
even though my full name=0A was on the form and most other planes list fu
ll names. =0A =C2- =0A DAR was Donna Basgall, #DARF830505CE and my insu
rance is via=0A SkySmith. =0A =C2- =0A Bob =0A =C2- =0A N442PM (fl
ying for a year now!) =0A =0A =0A =C2- =0A =0A =0A =0A =C2- =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
http://www.matron="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://forums.matr
onics.com">http:/===================
======0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Heat vent pressure |
With all the history of the tunnel heat coming from the heat vents I am
looking for (testing) information.
Anyone know about how much volume and pressure is coming out of the heat
muff when in flight? As an example for testing I would like to use a
heat gun/ hair dryer to see how much heat comes through the vents versus
the aluminum vents.
As a side note, I wanted to comment on the Plane Innovations Heat vents.
They really are built nicely, they are stainless steel that is spot
welded together, in the pursuit to build a vent that is completely
fireproof the doors have tabs inside and the cable clamps are also
stainless steel. My question above is to determine how much air is
actually forced through to determine how well the vents would work with
smoke and fire heat.
One thing is for sure, the plane innovations vents are far superior to
the flimsy aluminum one that come with the kit.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Tongue in cheek....It's good to know Sky Smith, your DAR and the FAA clerk
all count cheeks as the basis for 10.
Safe Flyin!
John Cox
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Fri 5/1/2009 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Sorry, don't remember the exact question. Not a factor for me since I've g
ot the stock seat configuration.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Question, On your insurance form did they ask if you modified my plane from
vans plan? Mine did and I answered accordingly. I would certainly say addi
ng a fifth seat is a modification. or fifth seatbelt. Since every one on bo
ard has to have their own with exception of child under 2yrs.
Just my reading of FARS Not EAA.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrot
e:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 12:44 PM
Happy to share John, but will point out that the registration process is wh
ere things get fouled up - it's the clerk that reads the info from the mult
i-part carbon (not kidding here) form and enters into to the DB. The DAR I
used was a retired FSDO employee that does contract work for them in addit
ion to offering DAR services. She was getting ready to head over to the UK
to inspect some mods to a biz jet the week after she did my plane. The in
surance paperwork simply asks for number of seats which means (to me anyway
) that they care about how many seats you actually have, not how the plane
is registered. You see a lot of military aeroclubs that remove a couple se
ats for insurance purposes since they focus mostly on flight training.
I made a call when I discovered the issue but it seems like once the info i
s there it's a huge amount of effort to change. You'll also note that the
manufacturer field just has my last name even though my full name was on th
e form and most other planes list full names.
DAR was Donna Basgall, #DARF830505CE and my insurance is via SkySmith.
Bob
N442PM (flying for a year now!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I don't think the question about how to keep it from sagging was answered. I am
absolutely no expert, but I remember Dave Saylor showing us how to use Peel Ply
(a dacron fabric I believe) on the practice chocks we made. I think lots of
flox/cabosil and a final "hold in place" with Peel Ply might work.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242388#242388
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LED NAV/Strobe/Landing Lights |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Albert,
At Sun 'n fun I noticed Kuntzleman has a new LED landing light in his offerings.
Looks pretty good.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242390#242390
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
I like to thicken my epoxy/flox mix until it starts to get stringy when
flowing off the mixing stick and then thicken it up to non sag stage with
cabosil. I don't use peal ply for this application, although I don't think
that it would hurt, but peal ply doesn't flow around the arc of the door
very well.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 7:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: final door trim
I don't think the question about how to keep it from sagging was answered. I
am absolutely no expert, but I remember Dave Saylor showing us how to use
Peel Ply (a dacron fabric I believe) on the practice chocks we made. I think
lots of flox/cabosil and a final "hold in place" with Peel Ply might work.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242388#242388
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Guys,
If there's anybody else out there ready for the seatbelt countersink, now's the
time to get on the list.
So far it is: 1) Jay, 2) Bob, then 3) back to me.
It will go out as soon as Bob gets me his mailing address, so let me know and I'll
add you to the list.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242396#242396
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Take it from me, you really don't want to go piddling on your wiring!
Causes corrosion.
Linn
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242396#242396
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | vetterman exhaust |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
can anyone share their pics of the left side muffler and tail pipe. Lacking any
instructions I think I've got it figured out, but it would be good to see how
others have done it. I installed it months ago, but trying to get the scat
tubes on I realize they are not lined up properly. Is the tail pipe welded on
to the the muffler or should I be able to move it?
much obliged,
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242459#242459
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vetterman exhaust |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Its a slip joint, no need to weld it Once in position its pretty tight make sure
you put some mouse milk on the ball/slip joints to easier assemble and take
apart
Rick S
40185
Paint
------Original Message------
From: cjay
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: May 2, 2009 7:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: vetterman exhaust
can anyone share their pics of the left side muffler and tail pipe. Lacking any
instructions I think I've got it figured out, but it would be good to see how
others have done it. I installed it months ago, but trying to get the scat
tubes on I realize they are not lined up properly. Is the tail pipe welded on
to the the muffler or should I be able to move it?
much obliged,
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242459#242459
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | elevator trailing edge |
Hi all,
Finally back to building after about a 2 year break :P I did the
dynaseal thing on the elevator trailing edges last night and after I
got the left elevator ribs in, the wedge sealed in, and the cleco's in
I realized I forgot to make the bend in the edge so there's about a
32nd (maybe a bit less) of a gap in the trailing edge. Is there
anyway to fix that after the fact?
I know it's a cosmetic thing, but it bugs me since the rudder and
right elevator came out pretty nice ;)
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up the elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Hi all,
I'm also interested in doing Vic's trim mod on my rudder. I found the
part #'s from an earlier post for the access plate, doubler(s) and
servo. Is there also a part # for the pushrod fairing, or is that
something we have to make ourselves?
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, guys for the advice; very helpful. I think I'll go with the same
spot Bill shows in his picture. I stumbled across a pic of Van's prototype
that seems to show it's a good location, too:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/undercowl/P0003082.html
-Rob
On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 12:43 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <
bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> wrote:
> There are a number of potential items on the engine side of the firewall
> are pressure senders, pressure switches, hall effect current sensor, tach
> generator for RPM pickup, etc. Depending on your installation you might
> have all, none or any combination. Also, some sensors will ground throug
h
> the case and others have a ground wire. I think I=92ve got 4 items groun
ded
> on the engine side of the firewall.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Testement
> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2009 2:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
>
>
> Rob,
>
>
> I put mine of the inside of the firewall on the far left and ran a #2
> ground from the rear battery. On the engine side I ran a braided cable fr
om
> the mounting bolt to the engine. There was really nothing to ground on th
e
> engine side of the firewall. As it ended up most of the grounds came from
> the avionics and I put 3 10-tab ground =91buses=92 (got from Stein) next
to/on
> the avionics stack.
>
>
> John Testement
>
> N311RV flying
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
>
>
> This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You ca
n
> locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the cock
pit
> side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you make in the
> instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
>
> Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
>
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
> common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put th
e
> B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
> described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
> the grounds, I suppose).
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> -Rob
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> * href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com
/contribution*
>
> * *
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/29/09 06:37:00
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
You can get them from Avery and Aircraft Spruce.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Hi all,
I'm also interested in doing Vic's trim mod on my rudder. I found the
part #'s from an earlier post for the access plate, doubler(s) and
servo. Is there also a part # for the pushrod fairing, or is that
something we have to make ourselves?
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 5/3/2009 1:01 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> That's just a normal rudder cable exit fairing available
> from Aircraft Spruce or Avery and other places. Or, you
> can make it yourself.
Page 38 of the June 2009 Kitplanes has an article showing how to make
them. Looks pretty easy.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just completed the first annual and re weighed after
installing the extra battery. The new weight is 1666 and a cg of 108.13.
installing the 680 on the firewall moved the CG about an inch forward. I won't
feel any anxiety loading 100 pounds in the baggage area (35 pounds of tools
and 65 pounds of family things). Based on a previous weight I calculate the
battery at 15 and the paint at 21.
> [b]
Can you show us where you placed the 680 in the front?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242523#242523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Exterior and interior views
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: W&B update
[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just completed the first annual and re weighed
after installing the extra battery. The new weight is 1666 and a cg of
108.13. installing the 680 on the firewall moved the CG about an inch
forward. I won't feel any anxiety loading 100 pounds in the baggage area
(35 pounds of tools and 65 pounds of family things). Based on a previous
weight I calculate the battery at 15 and the paint at 21.
> [b]
Can you show us where you placed the 680 in the front?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242523#242523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I am working on the cabin doors and would like to install some
reinforcements and nutplates in the doors to attach door straps to. I
would like some suggestions as to where on the door the straps should
attach to be easily reached and used to hold onto with the door cracked
while taxing for ventilation. Not having an airplane to sit in to
determine where a good location on the door would be that would allow
for a comfortable reach and yet be out of the way when not in use, I am
soliciting ideas and pictures.
Thanks
Chris (I can't believe people would build an entire airplane out of this
miserable fiberglass) Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I did this without the need for reinforcing the door.- Looked all over fo
r a decent strap.... then found these for $2.98 at $9.98 store in Roseville
, CA.- Can get them for you if you'd like.- Slight modification to the
strap and then paid to have a handle sewed.- Works great, looks pretty go
od to.
Don McDonald
Flirst flight scheduled tentatively for this Friday.
--- On Sun, 5/3/09, Chris Hukill wrote:
From: Chris Hukill <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Door Straps
Date: Sunday, May 3, 2009, 2:19 PM
I am working on the cabin doors and would like to install some reinforcemen
ts and nutplates in the doors to attach door straps to. I would like some s
uggestions as to where on the door the straps should- attach to be easily
reached and used to hold onto with the door cracked while taxing for venti
lation. Not having an airplane to sit in to determine where a good location
on the door would be that would allow for a comfortable reach- and yet b
e out of the way when not in use, I am soliciting ideas and pictures.
Thanks
Chris (I can't believe people would build an entire airplane out of this mi
serable fiberglass) Hukill
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Annual inspection |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Just finished my third annual inspection.Watch the area in the tunnel where the
rudder cables cross the spar.Gave up on Vans nose wheels and ordered a new fork
from Vans,and a?Groves axle and wheel.Vans is a great company but they dropped
the ball on the nose wheel and axle .Lightspeeds sent off for service bulletins,
and Vans service bulletins complied with. GRT modified for 430 waas approaches.If
your instrument rated? fly a waas approach there everywhere now and
amazing.What a great choice in an airplane.HOPE TO SEE MANY OF YOU AT OSH.????????????????????????
Jim-728DD-230 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi
It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated the
tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the
completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that
she had to park outside for the winter.
Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy.
It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it
nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very
precise & straight cut. I don't think a normal reciprocating saw would have
done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it was
well worth the investment.
The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite easily.
It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get everything
lined up and clecoed.
I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van's tomorrow
but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors square, I
notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16" above the skins (that is
the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side
skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have
to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Hey, Les... sounds like we're at about the same point in the build. I
actually found that the gap between the top of the skin and the joggle was
slightly bigger on the forward side (near the door opening). 3/16" sounds
like a lot, though. Ours is probably 1/16 or maybe 3/32 at its biggest
point. Even with that gap, we had to trim the bottoms of the door openings
very thin, pretty much eliminating that 1/16" the plans call for.
We clecoed on the tailcone forward top skin, and it fit nice and snug
against the cabin top. The canopy joggle gap was huge on the sides, but a
call to Van's confirmed that is okay, given there's plenty of edge
distance. I'm curious if you encounter the same thing.
-Rob
On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated t
he
> tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the
> completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that
> she had to park outside for the winter=85
>
>
> Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
>
>
> First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy
.
> It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it
> nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very
> precise & straight cut. I don=92t think a normal reciprocating saw would
have
> done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it w
as
> well worth the investment.
>
>
> The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite
> easily. It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get
> everything lined up and clecoed.
>
>
> I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van=92s
> tomorrow but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors
> square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16=94 above the
> skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the
top
> of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks li
ke
> I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 ' Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the first
two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two rivets
on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
wings......
We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a fix.
They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in. My
question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method? Was it
a temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a old
fleet to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem (new
tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing
minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
Jason, I would be interested in hearing your results. I've got a 22
year-old RV-4 that is leaking at several rivets. This was built using the
old Pro-Seal that Van's has since moved away from due to its becoming
brittle and cracking after 20 years. I would like to see if this fix works.
When I contacted Van's about my RV-4, their only solution was to build new
fuel tanks. Where did you buy this green, wicking Loctite?
Jack Phillips
RV-10 #40610
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 8:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the first
two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two rivets
on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
wings......
We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a fix.
They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in. My
question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method? Was it a
temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a old fleet
to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem (new
tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor
finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | WTB: Rivet Squeezer |
My rivet squeezer was rebuilt about 1 1/2 - 2 months ago and it has quit
again. I'm thinking it's time to retire this one and look for another
one.Anybody have a "C" style pneumatic rivet squeezer they're not using
anymore?? Thought I would try the groups before I call Avery or
Cleveland and order a new one.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Loctite 290 Threadlocker. Available at Amazon and many auto supply places. It's
about $20 for a tiny tube, so don't waste it.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242613#242613
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/threadlocker290_112.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it sounds like
you need a little more work on where the door part sits. :)
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242618#242618
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
We used "Napa 290", purchased at our local Napa store (obviously).
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing
minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | James McGrew <jsmcgrew(at)alum.mit.edu> |
I used this method on a single leaking rivet on a QB wing tank. I had a hard
time getting it to work. Someone recommended putting a slight vacuum on the
tank to get the Loctite 390 to get pulled in around the rivet. That is hard
to do with an installed tank. I used a ballon taped to the end of a short
piece of rubber hose to put some air pressure on the outside of the rivet. I
also used a heat gun on the area while the Loctite was still wet. It sealed
the leak and it has been leak free for 1.5 years now.
-Jim
N312JE
On Mon, May 4, 2009 at 7:00 AM, wrote:
>
> We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the first
> two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two rivets
> on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
> wings......
>
> We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a fix.
> They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
> applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in. My
> question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method? Was it a
> temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a old fleet
> to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
>
> I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem (new
> tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
>
> It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor
> finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
>
> #40617 N44YH
> Sheboygan Falls, WI
> (4) Partner Build
> Jason Kreidler
> Kyle Hokel
> Tony Kolar
> Wayne Elsner
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
Could this stuff be used before paint.... or could something else be used before
paint
It would be nice to solve the problem before it becomes a problem.
Don
--- On Mon, 5/4/09, jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
wrote:
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
Date: Monday, May 4, 2009, 6:04 AM
We used "Napa 290", purchased at our local Napa store (obviously).
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor finishing
and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
John, you got it done after only 15 fittings.... you're my new idol!
Don
--- On Mon, 5/4/09, johngoodman wrote:
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
Date: Monday, May 4, 2009, 6:11 AM
Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it sounds
like you need a little more work on where the door part sits.- :)
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242618#242618
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
The guys at Dave Saylor's (Aircrafters) did it with only two fittings.
I have a few more iterations...
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 4-May-09, at 7:11 AM, johngoodman wrote:
> >
>
> Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it
> sounds like you need a little more work on where the door part
> sits. :)
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242618#242618
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
I had to take mine down to 1/16" in a spot or two.
After watching Dave's team do it, I only required 20 or so fittings. I
think I could get it down to 15 on my 2nd or 3rd try. Maybe.
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> The guys at Dave Saylor's (Aircrafters) did it with only two fittings.
>
> I have a few more iterations...
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 4-May-09, at 7:11 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Unless you've pulled the canopy and sanded it at least 15 times, it
>> sounds like you need a little more work on where the door part sits. :)
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
>> N711JG reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242618#242618
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Schulz" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
| Subject: | WTB: Rivet Squeezer |
Give me a call Mike @ 612-590-8604 I have one it's older and works great.
Mike Schulz
Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC
4878 Edgewater Drive
Mound, MN 55364
612-590-8604
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 7:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: WTB: Rivet Squeezer
My rivet squeezer was rebuilt about 1 1/2 - 2 months ago and it has quit
again. I'm thinking it's time to retire this one and look for another
one.Anybody have a "C" style pneumatic rivet squeezer they're not using
anymore?? Thought I would try the groups before I call Avery or Cleveland
and order a new one.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | FW: 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner Meeting |
/ BBQ / Fly-in
I'm posting this on the main Matronic's RV-10 list in case there are folks
in the Northwest who are not on my mailing list, but do frequent this list
and who might want to join in. Respond to me off-line.
For newbie's on the Matronic's list, the NW RV-10 builders have been holding
these dinners for 4 years now. They keep getting bigger as more folks get
involved with the 10. And now with so many finished, it's starting to
become a fly-in as well. Come on out and join us some time.
John
_____
From: John Jessen [mailto:john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner Meeting / BBQ /
Fly-in
Folks,
We were going to have the Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner meeting
at Vernon Smith's in Albany, but Vern's got about three or four months more
work to do on his RV-10 before he'd like to show it off. He was willing to
go ahead with the Spring dinner, but I suggested that he hold off until he
got his pride and joy ready for prime time. I didn't want him to rush
anything. So one idea would be to, for the Fall meeting, combine Vern's
RV-10 debut and the RV homecoming gathering at Independence. Norm mentioned
something along these lines the last time we gathered at Randy's. I think
the idea has some legs. We can discuss it at the Spring meeting.
In the meantime, since I'm now lacking a sponsor for the Spring meeting, I
suggest we hold it at my hanger at Lenhardt's (7S9). By doing so we can
have it as a fly-in / BBQ. There are more than enough interesting planes at
Lenhardt (three Stearman, a PT-13, and so on) to add to the normal RV-10
interest. I'm sure Jack Lenhardt would be pleased to see all those
completed RV-10's parked on the grass. We could arrange to use Jack's large
hanger for the meal if there are enough of us, or simply hold it at mine.
Smaller, but serviceable. There are 3 RV-10's being built on the field,
although none of them is very active at the moment. Bruce and Becky have
set aside their RV-10 build temporarily while beginning another project
(I'll let them show-and-tell that, but I can guarantee you'll find it
interesting). George McNiel is still MIA, but his RV-10 QB is next door to
mine just waiting for him to resume work. My project was shelved while I
played with a GlaStar that I bought to fly while building. I've just now
restarted the RV-10 by pulling out my 2 year old wing kit and oiling up the
air tools.
Looking at my calendar, I see that May 30th and 31st are a possibility.
Maybe June 6th or 7th. Let me know if you're interested and what dates you
wouldn't be able to make. My thought would be to have a plain ol' BBQ.
Lots of good burgers, chicken, and dogs, with some vegi-burgers thrown in.
Folks could bring the fixings, side dishes and desserts. We could do it
earlier in the day, say arrive around noon. Eat around 2:00. People could
then have that evening free for other activities.
RV-10's that might fly in would be Dan Benua's, Ed Hayden's, Randy Debauw's,
Norm Rainey's, Tim James', Bruce Radke's, Dick VanGrunsven, Rob Hickman. We
might even coax Deems to fly up and show off. Or even get Dave Saylor up
from his digs in the Monterey Bay area. Maybe Ed could regale us with
stories of his flight to the islands, with Tim Olson. (Hey, Tim! You're
still on the list as one of the founding members. Best get out here one
day.)
Let me know. And, as usual, please let me know if I've forgotten anyone or
there is someone new to be invited.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi Les,
The height the joggle sits above the side skins is determined by the
canopy thickness at the door sill (something you can control) and as
you move aft by the distance from the tailcone forward top skin down
to the joggle (something you can't control). If the gap is even all
the way across or gets bigger as you move aft, you've probably done
all you can do.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 3, 2009, at 9:10 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I
> mated the tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I
> must say, the completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made
> my wife forget that she had to park outside for the winter=85
>
> Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
>
> First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the
> canopy. It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job
> but it did it nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut
> line and get a very precise & straight cut. I don=92t think a normal
> reciprocating saw would have done as neat a job. Given that it cost
> under $100 CDN (about $80US), it was well worth the investment.
>
> The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach
> quite easily. It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or
> so to get everything lined up and clecoed.
>
> I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van=92s
> tomorrow but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the
> doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16=94
> above the skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy
> joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to
> get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off
> the bottom of the door.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 ' Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Les,
3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that much thinner...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242671#242671
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IAS for Pahse 1 without pants/fairings |
I got about +18 kts when I put the pants and fairings on!!
grumpy
On Apr 29, 2009, at 10:20 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> What IAS are people seeing during their flyoff without pants/
> fairings. Today @ 3500' running 25 x 25, I was indicating 134 kts.
> I know I've got some rigging problems (which I hope are now
> remedied) and have been dragging the airplane through the sky with a
> yaw. Just curious as to what I should be looking for once I get her
> rigged right and flying straight.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> A whooping 3.2 hours and 3 flights !
>
>
> BTW the RAM air is an INSTANT turbo, pull the valve open and MP
> pressure jumps 1.9" !!!!!!!!! WOOOOHOOOOO. What a surge!!!!!! I
> spoke with Rod Bower tonight and he's working on an enhancement and
> testing with Lycon, and he's confident we can get 3" + boost
> additional with the BPE cold air and forward facing servo :-)
> Who needs any stinking turbo !?
>
>
> ...... More to come
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic log books |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Sorry, I meant Excel.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242682#242682
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electronic log books |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I just use Exel (spreadsheet). If you're familiar with it, it's easy enough to
sort by aircraft type, hours last 12 months, etc. I so this at least once a year
for the insurance questionaire.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242681#242681
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Question / Observation |
Les,
>> After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy
sits about 3/16" above the skins (that is the distance between the top of
the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want
to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the
bottom of the door. <<
The thing to look for in the seam under the windows is to make sure you have
good edge distance on the fiberglass for the rivets along that horizontal
line. As long as you have that, the width of the gap left over by the
joggle isn't too important. 3/16" seems like a bit on the large side, but
as you remove material from the bottom of the door frame, you also might
start interfering along the lower side of the joggle. So you have to
balance how thick you want the bottom of the door frame with how much you
can afford to remove from downward-pointing leg of the joggle. My plane has
ALL of the lower door frame removed in one tiny area. For the most part,
you'll see the lower outboard edge of the frame thinner than 1/8".
Any questions just call.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
I used their method and it worked. The stuff does not dry on top of
the rivet and is misleading. However, my fix has lasted three years.
On Mon, May 4, 2009 at 8:00 AM, wrote:
>
> We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the first
> two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two rivets
> on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
> wings......
>
> We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a fix.
> They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
> applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in. My
> question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method? Was it a
> temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a old fleet
> to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
>
> I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem (new
> tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
>
> It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing minor
> finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
>
> #40617 N44YH
> Sheboygan Falls, WI
> (4) Partner Build
> Jason Kreidler
> Kyle Hokel
> Tony Kolar
> Wayne Elsner
>
>
--
Rob Kermanj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Much" <mkmuch(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | FS: RV-10 Tailkit (New) & All my tools |
Guys - I am just not a builder... I am selling my tailkit and all my
tools - My website has a partial listing as well as posted on VAT. I
have all receipts for all parts and kits. If you're looking for
something specific and not lists - ask I might have it. I love the
RV-10's and RV-I'd - I will buy one complete... Thought I'd at least
try it...
email is mkmuch(at)gmail.com Website is www.2muchflying.com
Thanks for all the help...
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: FW: 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner Meeting |
/ BBQ / Fly-in
Hi John,
=C2-Thanks for the heads up. Our mechanic lives in Independence and we go
there all the time.
We=C2- =C2-w ould love to see you all at Lenhardt's also. We are=C2-
doing the Farmers' market on S aturday and will be also doing it on T uesda
y. Frida y and S aturday wouldn't work for us, but if everyone decides on S
unday that would be great! Thanks for the heads up. Sounds like so much fun
.
Brian and Ruth
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2009 9:15:28 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: FW: 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner Mee
ting / BBQ / Fly-in
I'm posting this on the main Matronic's RV-10=C2-list in case there are f
olks in the Northwest who are not on my mailing list, but do frequent this
list and who might want to join in.=C2- Respond to me off-line.=C2-=C2
-
For newbie's on the Matronic's list,=C2-the=C2-NW RV-10 builders have b
een holding these dinners for 4 years now.=C2- They keep getting bigger a
s more folks get involved with the 10.=C2- And now with so many finished,
it's starting to become a fly-in as well.=C2- Come on out and join us so
me time.=C2-
John
From: John Jessen [mailto:john.m.jessen(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner Meeting / BBQ / Fl
y-in
Folks,
We were going to have the Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Dinner meetin
g at Vernon Smith's in Albany, but Vern's got about three or four months mo
re work to do on his RV-10 before he'd like to show it off.=C2- He was wi
lling to go ahead with the Spring dinner, but I suggested that he hold off
until he got his pride and joy ready for prime time.=C2- I didn't want hi
m to rush anything.=C2- So one idea would be to, for the Fall meeting, co
mbine Vern's RV-10 debut and the RV homecoming gathering at Independence.
=C2- Norm mentioned something along these lines the last time we gathered
at Randy's.=C2- I think the idea has some legs.=C2- We can discuss it
at the Spring meeting.=C2-
In the meantime, since I'm now lacking a sponsor for the Spring meeting, I
suggest we hold it at my hanger at Lenhardt's (7S9).=C2- By doing so we c
an have it as a fly-in / BBQ.=C2- There are more than enough interesting
planes at Lenhardt (three Stearman, a PT-13, and so on) to add to the norma
l RV-10 interest.=C2- I'm sure Jack Lenhardt would be pleased to see all
those completed RV-10's parked on the grass.=C2- We could arrange to use
Jack's large hanger for the meal if there are enough of us, or simply hold
it at mine.=C2- Smaller, but serviceable.=C2- There are 3 RV-10's being
built on the field, although none of them is very active at the moment.=C2
- Bruce and Becky have set aside their RV-10 build temporarily while begi
nning another project (I'll let them show-and-tell that, but I can guarante
e you'll find it interesting).=C2-=C2-George McNiel=C2-is still MIA,
but his RV-10 QB is next door to mine just waiting for him to resume work.
=C2- My project was shelved while I played with a GlaStar that I bought t
o fly while building.=C2- I've just now restarted the RV-10 by pulling ou
t my 2 year old wing kit and oiling up the air tools.=C2-
Looking at my calendar, I see that May 30th and 31st are a possibility.=C2
-=C2-Maybe June 6th or 7th.=C2- Let=C2-me know if you're interested
and what dates you wouldn't be able to make.=C2- My thought would be to
have a plain ol' BBQ.=C2- Lots of good burgers, chicken,=C2-and dogs, w
ith some vegi-burgers thrown in.=C2- Folks could bring the fixings, side
dishes and desserts.=C2-=C2-We could do it earlier in the day, say arri
ve around noon.=C2- Eat around 2:00.=C2- People could then have that ev
ening free for other activities.=C2-=C2-=C2-
RV-10's that might fly in would be Dan Benua's, Ed Hayden's, Randy Debauw's
, Norm Rainey's, Tim James', Bruce Radke's, Dick VanGrunsven, Rob Hickman.
=C2- We might even coax Deems to fly up and show off.=C2- Or even get D
ave Saylor up from his digs in the Monterey Bay area.=C2- Maybe Ed could
regale us with stories of his flight to the islands, with Tim Olson.=C2-
=C2-(Hey, Tim!=C2- You're still on the list as one of the founding memb
ers.=C2- Best get=C2-out here one day.)=C2- =C2-
Let me know.=C2- And, as usual, please let me know if I've forgotten anyo
ne or there is someone new to be invited.=C2-
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi Guys
Many thanks for all the canopy responses. I plan to relook at my canopy
tomorrow and then call Van's. I was delayed today due to a tunnel access I
was installing and missed the tech support window.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: May-04-09 1:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Canopy Question / Observation
Les,
>> After fitting the doors square, I notice that the rear of the canopy
sits about 3/16" above the skins (that is the distance between the top of
the canopy joggle and the top of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want
to get it lower, it looks like I would have to take too much depth off the
bottom of the door. <<
The thing to look for in the seam under the windows is to make sure you have
good edge distance on the fiberglass for the rivets along that horizontal
line. As long as you have that, the width of the gap left over by the
joggle isn't too important. 3/16" seems like a bit on the large side, but
as you remove material from the bottom of the door frame, you also might
start interfering along the lower side of the joggle. So you have to
balance how thick you want the bottom of the door frame with how much you
can afford to remove from downward-pointing leg of the joggle. My plane has
ALL of the lower door frame removed in one tiny area. For the most part,
you'll see the lower outboard edge of the frame thinner than 1/8".
Any questions just call.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: RV-10 Tailkit (New) & All my tools |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Mike,
I wish you were here!
Any chance you can team up with local partners? I've seen several multiple owner/builders
on this forum.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242765#242765
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
Hello Jason,
I had the same problem twice, also with quick build wings. I also called
Vans and told them about the problem, I was talking to Gus, who normally
was really good at answers, and after our conversation that this is
quick build and by theory should be better than what I could do, his
answer in a back handed way was " Ya and what do you want me to do about
it" His attitude really turned me off and I told him if you don't know
what to do there's no sense in me talking to you and I hung up on him,
which I would never normally do but his attitude was so flipped it
ticked me off.
By the way he told me the same answer as he did you but but I was just
telling him that in inspecting the inside of the tank, I drained it,
that I could see that his hired help in the Philippines were only
putting a very small amount of pro seal in the tank in order to save
money. I'm assuming they're paid so much a unit and if you skimp you
save money, I guess. I was trying to tell Gus that he needs to tell them
to do a better job and stop cutting corners.
I actually drilled out the leaking rivets and put in cherry max rivets
with a lot of pro seal on the back side of the rivet. That was two years
ago and I've not had any additional leaks. When I had the leaks the
plane hadn't yet been painted so drilling out the rivet wasn't a paint
issue.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Subject: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in
the first
two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings,
two rivets
on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are
quickbuild
wings......
We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for
a fix.
They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets.
We
applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come
in. My
question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method?
Was it
a temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have
a old
fleet to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem
(new
tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done,
doing
minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
I also have one leaky rivet on the top of the tank in the "walk area". But,
so does 410RV. I did my transition training in that aircraft and it has
several leakers. I think it must have something to do with the doublers. My
leaky rivet is under the 3m non-skid in the walk area and only shows up when
the tank is full, so I have decided to live with it until this summer. When
it gets real hot, I will try to pull the 3m stuff up and seal the rivet.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
Hello Jason,
I had the same problem twice, also with quick build wings. I also called
Vans and told them about the problem, I was talking to Gus, who normally was
really good at answers, and after our conversation that this is quick build
and by theory should be better than what I could do, his answer in a back
handed way was " Ya and what do you want me to do about it" His attitude
really turned me off and I told him if you don't know what to do there's no
sense in me talking to you and I hung up on him, which I would never
normally do but his attitude was so flipped it ticked me off.
By the way he told me the same answer as he did you but but I was just
telling him that in inspecting the inside of the tank, I drained it, that I
could see that his hired help in the Philippines were only putting a very
small amount of pro seal in the tank in order to save money. I'm assuming
they're paid so much a unit and if you skimp you save money, I guess. I was
trying to tell Gus that he needs to tell them to do a better job and stop
cutting corners.
I actually drilled out the leaking rivets and put in cherry max rivets with
a lot of pro seal on the back side of the rivet. That was two years ago and
I've not had any additional leaks. When I had the leaks the plane hadn't yet
been painted so drilling out the rivet wasn't a paint issue.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time:
Subject:
Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
From:
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the
first
two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two
rivets
on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
wings......
We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a
fix.
They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in.
My
question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method?
Was it
a temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a
old
fleet to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem
(new
tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing
minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
One point of clarification...I built my own tanks.
Tim, I think it would be a good idea to get a list of quick build
leakers..but don't count me in, I did this to myself. J
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
I also have one leaky rivet on the top of the tank in the "walk area". But,
so does 410RV. I did my transition training in that aircraft and it has
several leakers. I think it must have something to do with the doublers. My
leaky rivet is under the 3m non-skid in the walk area and only shows up when
the tank is full, so I have decided to live with it until this summer. When
it gets real hot, I will try to pull the 3m stuff up and seal the rivet.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
Hello Jason,
I had the same problem twice, also with quick build wings. I also called
Vans and told them about the problem, I was talking to Gus, who normally was
really good at answers, and after our conversation that this is quick build
and by theory should be better than what I could do, his answer in a back
handed way was " Ya and what do you want me to do about it" His attitude
really turned me off and I told him if you don't know what to do there's no
sense in me talking to you and I hung up on him, which I would never
normally do but his attitude was so flipped it ticked me off.
By the way he told me the same answer as he did you but but I was just
telling him that in inspecting the inside of the tank, I drained it, that I
could see that his hired help in the Philippines were only putting a very
small amount of pro seal in the tank in order to save money. I'm assuming
they're paid so much a unit and if you skimp you save money, I guess. I was
trying to tell Gus that he needs to tell them to do a better job and stop
cutting corners.
I actually drilled out the leaking rivets and put in cherry max rivets with
a lot of pro seal on the back side of the rivet. That was two years ago and
I've not had any additional leaks. When I had the leaks the plane hadn't yet
been painted so drilling out the rivet wasn't a paint issue.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time:
Subject:
Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
From:
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
We noticed a few leaking rivets on the top of the fuel tanks in the
first
two inboard rows of rivets. Rivets were leaking on both wings, two
rivets
on the left wing, one rivet on the right wing. These are quickbuild
wings......
We called Vans for advice on how they would like us to proceed for a
fix.
They asked us to apply green wicking Loctite to the faulty rivets. We
applied the Loctite, and will file a PIREP when the results come in.
My
question to the group is, has anyone else used this repair method?
Was it
a temporary repair, or a long term fix (I understand we don't have a
old
fleet to prove this). Is this common in the industry?
I have my own opinions of what Vans should do to solve our problem
(new
tanks), but we will try it their way first.....
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
It runs, weight and balance complete, transition training done, doing
minor finishing and calibrations, waiting on paperwork.
#40617 N44YH
Sheboygan Falls, WI
(4) Partner Build
Jason Kreidler
Kyle Hokel
Tony Kolar
Wayne Elsner
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bending Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
If anybody is about to do section 29 and would like my clamping blocks and roll
angles give me a call 612-590-8604. I made both wood blocks and the roll angles
and if you pay shipping you can have them.
Mike Schulz
40447 and working on Fuse. 8)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242786#242786
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Please put me on the list.
Mike Schulz
#40447
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242789#242789
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Les,
Here is another way of looking at what the above have said in different ways.
Look at the horizontal joggle along the full length (fore-aft) relative to the
side skin. The front portion (joggle) should fit closely to the skin. It can
be brought down by trimming the door sill. There was not much door sill left
on mine when I was done. The aft joggle is really dictated by the attachment
to the bulkhead/top skin. You can't do much about it except fill it in later.
Mine was about 1/8 inch. Last, make sure that you trim excess off the joggle
flange to make sure it clears the longeron (no interference).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242808#242808
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Les,
Here is another way of looking at what the above have said in different ways.
Look at the horizontal joggle along the full length (fore-aft) relative to the
side skin. The front portion (joggle) should fit closely to the skin. It can
be brought down by trimming the door sill. There was not much door sill left
on mine when I was done. The aft joggle is really dictated by the attachment
to the bulkhead/top skin. You can't do much about it except fill it in later.
Mine was about 1/8 inch. Last, make sure that you trim excess off the joggle
flange to make sure it clears the longeron (no interference).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242809#242809
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 QB Wingkit for sale Columbia, SC |
| From: | "HAMILTON, PATTY" <PGILLIES(at)mailbox.sc.edu> |
For Sale Rv10 Quick built wing kit for sale in Columbia SC $12000
Contact Patty Hamilton at phamilton(at)sc.rr.com or (803) 240-8376
P Please help reduce our impact.
Do not print this e-mail unless absolutely necessary.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
The good news is we found the leaks before paint, as we intend to fly off Phase
1 without paint.
The RV-10 trainer in Texas also has leaking rivets on top of the wing, in the wing
walk area.
It would be interesting to note the location of all of the leaks found so far.
I suspect that the last inboard rivets at the end of the wing walk stiffeners
(T-1011) is where most leaks are occurring. This looks like it is a highly stressed
rivet joint. I think it might be good practice to not use this section
of the wing as a walking area. I may be wrong....
Thanks or 'tanks' for all the replies!
Jason Kreidler #40617 - 4 Partner Build
Do Not Archieve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242823#242823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "Paul Ohman" <ohman_paul(at)hotmail.com> |
Great timing Mike, we are starting that section soon. I will take them. PM sent
--------
Paul Ohman
40810
slow build wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242846#242846
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Phase 1 report and GRT with the 'leans' |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Phase 1 flight testing is complete. As others that are flying already
well know, this one sensational aircraft!! My stick time has been
limited, but just supporting the 'mandatory crew' testing of Vx/Vy and
gross weight has furthered my grin! Keep pounding those rivets - it is
really well worth the effort.
Here is my squawk list (if you can call it that):
a. had to replace a valve core to stop left main
deflating
b. adjusted governor to correct underspeed at full
throttle
c. added fixed rudder trim
d. added fixed aileron trim (very small amount) to
account slightly heavy right wing
e. removed a bug (literally!!) from the left tank vent
line that fully blocked the vent. I have seen photos of an RV8 with a
crushed tank that resulted from the vent being blocked and the vacuum
created by pumping out the fuel - makes for a very bad day. The bug
must have crawled in during the VERY brief period in which the tanks
were empty for fuel calibration. CHECK THOSE VENTS!
f. Dodgy CHT sensor (or connection)
g. My GRT EFIS presents a slight roll (~3degs) on some
occasions. This is intermittent, not significant, just bloody annoying.
The skid ball is also way out - no correlation to the mechanical ball at
all.
I thought my GRT installation was pretty standard for a -10, the AHRS
and magnetometer are located on a shelf aft and rear of the battery and
A/P pitch servo. Plenty of distance from battery, antennas, A/P,
mounted with non magnetic hw etc. The only magnetic item within cooee
is the rear seat harness attach cables. Carols from GRT still believes
it may be a magnetometer interference issue. Anyone else had similar
problems, and how difficult is it to move the magnetometer to the wing
tip while maintaining alignment with the AHRS?
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying --- man THAT sounds good :-D
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your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Phase 1 report and GRT with the 'leans' |
Ron,
On your point g. the GRT EFIS lean and skid ball problem, you may want
to
talk to Mark Allen at GRT. Early on I had the same problem with my 9A.
After talking to Mark I sent him a log file. Based on the log file, Mark
told me one of the sensor was off. They fixed that problem for me and it
was
more than 400 hours ago.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://3limafoxtrot.com/
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, left Mag + right
Lightspeed
EI, Sensenich FP
GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 572 hrs Hobbs
Last flight: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR
<http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1>
&last=1
RV10 emp, #40948
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Phase 1 report and GRT with the 'leans'
G'day all,
Phase 1 flight testing is complete. As others that are flying already
well
know, this one sensational aircraft!! My stick time has been limited,
but
just supporting the 'mandatory crew' testing of Vx/Vy and gross weight
has
furthered my grin! Keep pounding those rivets - it is really well worth
the
effort.
Here is my squawk list (if you can call it that):
a. had to replace a valve core to stop left main
deflating
b. adjusted governor to correct underspeed at full
throttle
c. added fixed rudder trim
d. added fixed aileron trim (very small amount) to
account
slightly heavy right wing
e. removed a bug (literally!!) from the left tank vent
line that fully blocked the vent. I have seen photos of an RV8 with a
crushed tank that resulted from the vent being blocked and the vacuum
created by pumping out the fuel - makes for a very bad day. The bug
must
have crawled in during the VERY brief period in which the tanks were
empty
for fuel calibration. CHECK THOSE VENTS!
f. Dodgy CHT sensor (or connection)
g. My GRT EFIS presents a slight roll (~3degs) on some
occasions. This is intermittent, not significant, just bloody annoying.
The skid ball is also way out - no correlation to the mechanical ball at
all.
I thought my GRT installation was pretty standard for a -10, the AHRS
and
magnetometer are located on a shelf aft and rear of the battery and A/P
pitch servo. Plenty of distance from battery, antennas, A/P, mounted
with
non magnetic hw etc. The only magnetic item within cooee is the rear
seat
harness attach cables. Carols from GRT still believes it may be a
magnetometer interference issue. Anyone else had similar problems, and
how
difficult is it to move the magnetometer to the wing tip while
maintaining
alignment with the AHRS?
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying --- man THAT sounds good :-D
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Extra holes in wing ribs??? |
Somehow in match drilling the left rear spar to the wing ribs I got two
extra holes in the trailing edge flange (flange that rivets to the rear
spar) of the #'s 3 and 4 ribs. They are holes that were there
originally if I remember right. However, the holes that I match drilled
to the rear spar were a little bit further from center than the original
holes. Pictures are attached. Anyhow, if it's a mistake it's already
made. How do I fix it or should I go on and not worry about it. If I
drill the holes to the rear spar and rivet them I think it will be too
close to the W-1007B rear spar reinforcement fork (it's going to be
right on the edge).
Thanks,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 report and GRT with the 'leans' |
Kudos Ron!!!
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Gday all,
>
>
>
> Phase 1 flight testing is complete. As others that are flying already
> well know, this one sensational aircraft!! My stick time has been
> limited, but just supporting the mandatory crew testing of Vx/Vy and
> gross weight has furthered my grin! Keep pounding those rivets it is
> really well worth the effort.
It's news like this that keeps me going. >
> Here is my squawk list (if you can call it that):
>
> a. had to replace a valve core to stop left main deflating
>
> b. adjusted governor to correct underspeed at full
> throttle
>
> c. added fixed rudder trim
>
> d. added fixed aileron trim (very small amount) to
> account slightly heavy right wing
>
> e. removed a bug (literally!!) from the left tank vent
> line that fully blocked the vent. I have seen photos of an RV8 with a
> crushed tank that resulted from the vent being blocked and the vacuum
> created by pumping out the fuel makes for a very bad day. The bug
> must have crawled in during the VERY brief period in which the tanks
> were empty for fuel calibration. CHECK THOSE VENTS!
We have mud daubers where I live (FL) and they like tank vents with or
without fuel in the tanks!!! Take a pipe cleaner and bend it like a 'W'
and insert the middle bend up inside the vent. Should keep the critters
out.
>
> f. Dodgy CHT sensor (or connection)
>
> g. My GRT EFIS presents a slight roll (~3degs) on some
> occasions. This is intermittent, not significant, just bloody annoying.
> The skid ball is also way out no correlation to the mechanical ball
> at all.
>
> I thought my GRT installation was pretty standard for a -10, the AHRS
> and magnetometer are located on a shelf aft and rear of the battery and
> A/P pitch servo. Plenty of distance from battery, antennas, A/P,
> mounted with non magnetic hw etc. The only magnetic item within cooee
> is the rear seat harness attach cables. Carols from GRT still believes
> it may be a magnetometer interference issue. Anyone else had similar
> problems, and how difficult is it to move the magnetometer to the wing
> tip while maintaining alignment with the AHRS?
My thoughts on this are the distance between the yaw axis and the
mechanical ball Vs. the distance to the AHRS. Your AHRS is pretty far
aft, so the reading MAY be accurate ..... if it's really mounted correctly.
Linn
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Ron
>
> VH-XRM
> Flying --- man THAT sounds good :-D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just in case the new builders have not considered HID lights. See the
difference on my 10.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
So the power requirement is < the stk Van's lights?- If true, then-the
wiring already in the wingtip for the existing landing light should work ju
st fine.- Soon as I get the first flight in, I'll consider the change out
.- Thanks for the info.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 5/5/09, David McNeill wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: HID lights
Date: Tuesday, May 5, 2009, 8:06 PM
Just in case the new builders have not considered HID lights. See the diffe
rence on my 10.
-
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | G900X AHRS & remote compass |
Does anyone have pictures of where they installed the AHRS and remote
compass for a G900X system?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra holes in wing ribs??? |
Van's keep production cheaper by making all of the ribs the same. Those
extra holes are just not used. It is the difference between the regular
rib holes and the gap seal holes(I believe, it's been a month since I
did that.)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Extra holes in wing ribs???
Somehow in match drilling the left rear spar to the wing ribs I got
two extra holes in the trailing edge flange (flange that rivets to the
rear spar) of the #'s 3 and 4 ribs. They are holes that were there
originally if I remember right. However, the holes that I match drilled
to the rear spar were a little bit further from center than the original
holes. Pictures are attached. Anyhow, if it's a mistake it's already
made. How do I fix it or should I go on and not worry about it. If I
drill the holes to the rear spar and rivet them I think it will be too
close to the W-1007B rear spar reinforcement fork (it's going to be
right on the edge).
Thanks,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | G900X AHRS & remote compass |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Does this help?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G900X AHRS & remote compass |
Robin my only concern would be the harness atach cables. We installed
our unit at the top of the baulkhead to get away from them
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Does this help?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | G900X AHRS & remote compass |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Stainless Steel hardware.
Every problem has a solution, just add dollars.
If this was not S/S they definitely will interfere with the electronics.
You may still have to do the same. These are really sensitive devices.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
Susie
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Robin my only concern would be the harness atach cables. We installed
our unit at the top of the baulkhead to get away from them
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks <mailto:robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Does this help?
Robin
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/05/09 13:07:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | G900X AHRS & remote compass |
I followed the recommendation from Garmin and put the AHRS on the mount from
Van and the Magnitromiter in the tail like they picture in the manual.
It works great
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 10:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Does anyone have pictures of where they installed the AHRS and remote
compass for a G900X system?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: G900X AHRS & remote compass |
Nice picture! Thinking more about the electronic slip indicator .....
what's it do sitting still on the ground??? The other post about the
AHRS being out of cal makes sense. If it's accurate on the ground ....
or taxiing straight and out in flight I think points to a true slip.
Linn
Robin Marks wrote:
> Does this help?
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
How did you mount your balasts? Photos?
Thanks,
Jay
[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just in case the new builders have not considered
HID lights. See the difference on my 10.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 (http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661)
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242921#242921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
The install pictures are available on a click from the original link or
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=685
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID lights
How did you mount your balasts? Photos?
Thanks,
Jay
[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just in case the new builders have not
considered HID lights. See the difference on my 10.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
(http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661)
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242921#242921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | G900X AHRS & remote compass |
The harness attach cables haven't really been a big problem in the RV-10's
with the G900X Remote Mag in that area, but the attach bolts usually are.
If either one of them causes an issue anyway, you can usually just degauss
it....at least that's been our experience with lots of these RV10's with
G900X's in them. Chris's solution isn't a bad one either, you just need to
make sure it's fairly robust as well.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:49 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Robin my only concern would be the harness atach cables. We installed our
unit at the top of the baulkhead to get away from them
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G900X AHRS & remote compass
Does this help?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Here's what I did:
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/img_4685.jpg
On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 8:19 AM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>
> The install pictures are available on a click from the original link or
>
> http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=685
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
> Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: HID lights
>
>
> How did you mount your balasts? Photos?
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
> [quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just in case the new builders have not
> considered HID lights. See the difference on my 10.
>
> http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
> (http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661)
>
> > [b]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242921#242921
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | hid lights question |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
With com and nav antenna in the wing tips has anyone using the hid lights noted
interference with nav,loc,gs or com?Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com> |
| Subject: | Stock Door Seals |
Hey all -
just a quick note for those who are wanting (trying!) to use the
stock door seals... others have reported that the new seals that are
being sent are tan in color, which is true. I had called Vans tech
support to get the straight skinny on whether there's a better way to
do door seals (answer: nope.) so I ordered a new one to replace the
one I beat up, and when I asked about the color, he checked, and
found that they had two grey seals left. I bought one, so there's
one lonely grey seal there if someone is interested. You'd have to
ask for it specifically, but as of 0900 Pacific, there's one available.
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | hid lights question |
none. Specs on emissions are available from the plane lights contact.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: hid lights question
With com and nav antenna in the wing tips has anyone using the hid lights
noted interference with nav,loc,gs or com?Thanks
_____
Shopping for Mom? Save
<http://shopping.aol.com/mothers-day-gifts-for-mom?ncid=emlweinstor00000003>
yourself a little time and money on AOL Shopping.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Planelights" <steve(at)rigidindustries.com> |
Hi guys, Steve here from Planelights.
Power draw:
On any HID system you will have about a 10sec warm up. During that 10sec they
will be pulling about 7a(80w) @ 12v. After they are warmed up, they will pull
about 4.5a(54w) @ 12v. Your stock lights should have been 75w halogen bulbs,
the wiring should be adequate to handle the HID's.
These lights will work fine with a wig wag system. You will need to be able to
wire the lights to stay on for at least 1 minute prior to flashing. That allows
the xenon gas inside the bulb to stabilize prior to flashing.
If you look at our website you will see the RFI comparison charts. http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=702 You will see that our ballast should not interfere with any Nav or Comm equipment. We have had a few people say that a strobe light causes more intercom interference than our lights.
Thanks
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242940#242940
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Schulz" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
Paul,
Glad to find someone that I can help. If you could give me a call we can get
them on the way.
Mike Schulz
Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC
4878 Edgewater Drive
Mound, MN 55364
612-590-8604
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Ohman
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins
Great timing Mike, we are starting that section soon. I will take them. PM
sent
--------
Paul Ohman
40810
slow build wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242846#242846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Dark Orange RV-10 |
Does anyone have pictures of the dark Orange RV-10 that was for sale a few
months ago that they can email me?
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dark Orange RV-10 |
It also had a FLIR camera, not the tan and orange one.
Rob Hickman
N402RH
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | David Bowman Please call re Seminar |
David Bowman,
Please give me a call about this weekend. I don't have contact info for
you, and would like to confirm a few things.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dark Orange RV-10 |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I also recently ran across my old section 29 clamping block (cut from
oak). Same deal, free to anybody that needs/wants it, contact me
offline and pick up the tab for shipping.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi
I have been late in posting this....
I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He also
advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at the
door frame was acceptable.
It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: May-04-09 11:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
Les,
3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that much
thinner...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242671#242671
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "Paul Ohman" <ohman_paul(at)hotmail.com> |
Mike,
Thanks for the phone call. Here is my address/phone
2410 Milton Way Unit F
Milton WA 98354
(253)-517-3491
Paul
--------
Paul Ohman
40810
slow build fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243031#243031
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dark Orange RV-10 |
That was it, thanks.
My RV-10 goes into the paint shop tomorrow and we are still working on th
e
final color scheme.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Painted for OSH
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dark Orange RV-10 |
_http://flightaware.com/photos/view/toptail/116892-4a89300b1260aace3c5f171
13
a535348658b14aa;tail=N939DM;o=0_
(http://flightaware.com/photos/view/toptail/116892-4a89300b1260aace3c5f171
13a535348658b14aa;tail=N939DM;o=0)
Was it already repainted white and gray?
Rob Hickman
N402RH
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
As stated before the important point is that there is enough material for t
he pop rivets to hang onto and that the intersection with the rear aluminum
on the top mates correctly.
One more thing to remember is that the thinner you make the door sill fiber
glass=2C notice that it tapers inward toward the part that is on the outsid
e of the sill(expososed side). So the more you thin it=2C the further insid
e the sill sits inside the aluminum fuse opening which then affect the way
the doors interface with the structures when the door is closed.
John 409
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
> Date: Thu=2C 7 May 2009 08:51:11 -0600
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have been late in posting this....
>
> I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
> should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He als
o
> advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at t
he
> door frame was acceptable.
>
> It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - some assembly required.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: May-04-09 11:01 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
>
>
> Les=2C
>
> 3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that muc
h
> thinner...
>
> Lenny
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242671#242671
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello
I am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the AFS Engine
monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a Y-connector available
that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the other to the AF Manifold transducer
from the firewall tube fitting.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EA10 electric aileron trim |
Anyone done this? Care to share your experiences? Care to share your
results?
I would like to find out how different their system on the pushrod is from
the one I designed for my 6A. Maybe theirs is better - either way, trying
to figure it out for my second offense.....
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 still flying off the hours - now undergoing builders
withdrawl......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
I had a similar issue for my 6A - I used one of the ports of Vans manifold
and doubled it off for my AFS3400 and the LASAR ignition
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p
>
>
> Hello
> I am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the
> AFS Engine monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a
> Y-connector available that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the
> other to the AF Manifold transducer from the firewall tube fitting.
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
ding the skin.
Kelly
40866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
Kelly, I used some padding, on each side and under to position the
tailcone so that those rivet lines would be flat to the table and the
large rivet plate positioned underneath them, then used the back rivet
set to pound them, worked pretty good for me.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> "Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
> bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
> F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
> skins*."
>
>
> Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
> of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
> side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
> rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
> ding the skin.
>
> Kelly
> 40866
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I forget what the ID is on the yellow tubing that comes with the LS kit but get
a barb T from Aircraft Spruce for that size. Call Rob at AFS and they can send
you a replacement fitting for the inside of the bulkhead fitting from Vans.
You then use the yellow tubing from the bulkhead to the T and from the T to
the LS. The use another short piece from the T perhaps 1/2" and push it inside
some tygon tubing. You will use something like the 1/8" ID tygon tubing and
slip it over the yellow tubing and together push it onto the 3rd T fitting.
The other end goes to the AFS manafold transducer.
Hope the attached picture helps.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243089#243089
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_3075_100.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
I just used a standard flush rivet set.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
ding the skin.
Kelly
40866
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
I picked up a part at the local auto parts store. Standard vacuum
tubing universal Y part.
Jim Combs
N312F - 60+ hours!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wellenzohn"
Hello
I
am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the
AFS Engine monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a
Y-connector available that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the
other to the AF Manifold transducer from the firewall tube fitting.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder
(engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this
topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Kelly,
I did the same as Deem's. With a couple of old pillows I was able to prop the tail
cone so the the section being riveted was always flat on the back rivet plate.
When you get to the upper aft tail cone skin, I would suggest you back rivet
the stiffeners to the skin before you cleco the skin to the bulkheads. Just
leave the rivets out temporarily where the stiffener crosses the bulkheads.
It is much easier to do the top skin with everything flat on your bench, than
it is to do it working inside the cone. With a little flexing of the stiffeners,
it was no problem getting them and the skin positioned on the bulkheads. I
had zero smiley's on my tail cone. I love back riveting.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243103#243103
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I back riveted them against a bucking bar - not a back rivet plate.
I gave my highly unskilled wife the bucking bar and asked her to hold it
tight against the skin and flush head. On the other side, I shot it
with a back rivet set.
Worked great and we didn't have to worry about rolling the entire
assembly around.
One word of caution on the back rivet technique for the bulkheads
though. Pay attention to where your retainer spring is located... The
retainer spring on the rivet gun is the right height and it will want to
hang on the bulk head. Qhen you pull the trigger, it'll cut into and
notch your bulkheads before you know it.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius of
each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the side
skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back rivet
might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not ding the
skin.
Kelly
40866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Air vent question |
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy with your
decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left the
vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am looking
for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision. At the
moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing the
opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver ample air
via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also think this would
minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
mykitlog.com/rleffler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air vent question |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Bob,
I removed the internal hinging mechanism, glassed them over on the
outside and had Abby make my interior side panels without the notch. No
regrets at all! Plenty of air from the OH vents, in fact, I think that
2 NACA vents feeding the overhead is actually overkill.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air vent question
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy with
your decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left
the vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am
looking for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently
closing the opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to
deliver ample air via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also
think this would minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come
in through the vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
mykitlog.com/rleffler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Air vent question |
I kept mine just because they were already there and sometime it good to ge
t air from more then one directions.Just like dthe forward vents. The two s
coops on side produce a lot of air thats for sure. Overhead has a lot of ai
r and lots of leaks that has to be addressed in the future.
imhop
Patrick Thyssen
hunk=C2- is flying.
--- On Fri, 5/8/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrot
e:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air vent question
Date: Friday, May 8, 2009, 1:49 PM
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ABob, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AI rem
oved the internal hinging mechanism,=0Aglassed them over on the outside and
had Abby make my interior side panels=0Awithout the notch.=C2- No regret
s at all!=C2- Plenty of air from the OH vents, in=0Afact, I think that 2
NACA vents feeding the overhead is actually overkill.=C2- =0A=0A =C2-
=0A=0ABob =0A=0AN442PM (flying) =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0AFrom:=0Aowner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-s
erver(at)matronics.com] On=0ABehalf Of Bob Leffler
=0ASent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:01 PM
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: RV10-List: Air vent=0Aquestion =0A=0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AFor=0A
those that installed an overhead console with air vents: =0A=0A =C2- =0A
=0AWhat=0Adid you do with the standard rear seat vents?=C2- Are you happy
with your=0Adecision? =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AIf=0Ayou removed the vent and pe
rmanently close the opening or you left the vent per=0Aplans , any regrets
in doing so? =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AAs=0Ayou might surmise, I=99m trying
to decide what to do myself and am looking=0Afor other opinions and data p
oints to help me make a decision.=C2-=C2- At=0Athe moment, I=99m
leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing=0Athe opening.=C2
-=C2- I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver=0Aample ai
r via two new naca vents in the tailcone.=C2- I would also think this=0Aw
ould minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the
=0Avents. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AThanks, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0ABob =0A=0A#40684
=0A=0Amykitlog.com/rleffler =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A =C2- =0A
=0A =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.
matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Tail Kit for Sale |
I'm posting this for a local RV-6 pilot who is unable to complete his
RV10 project. The project is located at Calaveras Airport San Andreas,
CA. (KCPU)
--Larry Mersek
RV-6, flying
RV10 Tail Kit for sale. Vertical and rudder are built. The horizontal
is drilled to fit, dimpled, countersunk, and has been clecoed together
before. It is ready for primer and priced at $2500. Marc at (209)
609-1947. fieldbaren(at)volcano.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
In lieu of the tires and tubes that come from Vans in the finish kit I went to
Desser tires and purchased the tires I thought suited me best (Goodyear Flight
Custom II...but don't want to start a tire war). With the tires, I ordered tubes
that had a 90 bent stem and were about an inch long after the bend and face
outward. The main tire tubes of that kind aren't stocked and they sent me the
bent stem tubes with the long bend in them that are closer to 2-2.5 inches.
Are these going to fit inside the wheel pants with the longer (part number TR-87)
valve stems? I plan on modifying the wheel pants to allow for a spring loaded
opening that allows me to service the tire without removing the wheel pants
and hope these tubes will work since the guys at Desser gave me the new, and
much more expensive, tubes at the price of the ones I ordered.
If noone is sure can anyone get me the measurement from the outboard edge of their
tire to the wheel pant? Thanks.
Eric Kallio #518
Waiting on the finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243196#243196
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I believe that 15/600-6 are supplied with the kit and the Michelin leak
proof tubes are also supplied. I remove the front cover of the wheel pant to
service. Service is required only about 2 or 3 times per year; unlike my
Cardinal RG which required air about every two weeks because of the old
standard tube. I also found that I inadvertently ordered 600-6 retreads for
the 10 and they fit fine as well. What ever tire you install, check wheel
pant clearance after removal from the jacks and rolling forward and reverse
to align the wheel after jacking. Otherwise you might think that the
clearance is insufficient.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 3:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tire tubes
In lieu of the tires and tubes that come from Vans in the finish kit I went
to Desser tires and purchased the tires I thought suited me best (Goodyear
Flight Custom II...but don't want to start a tire war). With the tires, I
ordered tubes that had a 90 bent stem and were about an inch long after the
bend and face outward. The main tire tubes of that kind aren't stocked and
they sent me the bent stem tubes with the long bend in them that are closer
to 2-2.5 inches. Are these going to fit inside the wheel pants with the
longer (part number TR-87) valve stems? I plan on modifying the wheel pants
to allow for a spring loaded opening that allows me to service the tire
without removing the wheel pants and hope these tubes will work since the
guys at Desser gave me the new, and much more expensive, tubes at the price
of the ones I ordered.
If noone is sure can anyone get me the measurement from the outboard edge of
their tire to the wheel pant? Thanks.
Eric Kallio #518
Waiting on the finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243196#243196
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for all the suggestions. Back riveted a couple, found it to be
difficult to get tail cone tight enough against back rivet plate, so
did the rest with flush set, and my able SO bucking. Came out fine.
Hangar at 103F this afternoon slowed progress a bit.
On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 8:32 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> I back riveted them against a bucking bar - not a back rivet plate.
>
> I gave my highly unskilled wife the bucking bar and asked her to hold it
> tight against the skin and flush head. On the other side, I shot it
> with a back rivet set.
>
> Worked great and we didn't have to worry about rolling the entire
> assembly around.
>
> One word of caution on the back rivet technique for the bulkheads
> though. Pay attention to where your retainer spring is located... The
> retainer spring on the rivet gun is the right height and it will want to
> hang on the bulk head. Qhen you pull the trigger, it'll cut into and
> notch your bulkheads before you know it.
>
> Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
Hi Bob,
With the overhead console, I really don't think you need the side air
vents, or at least in my plane I wouldn't. The overheads in my plane
deliver a lot of air. With the side ones closed off it would also make
your interior work easier. The only consideration might be that the air
is blowing on or around the passengers head vs coming in from the side.
But I really don't think that's big deal. If I were doing it over I
might consider doing what you're thinking of.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Air vent question
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy
with your
decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you
left the
vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and
am looking
for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision.
At the
moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently
closing the
opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver
ample air
via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also think this
would
minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through
the vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
When did you put the naca vents in the tail cone as I am thinking of doing
the overhead console thing as well, but my tail cone is already built.
On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 8:07 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> With the overhead console, I really don't think you need the side air
> vents, or at least in my plane I wouldn't. The overheads in my plane deliver
> a lot of air. With the side ones closed off it would also make your interior
> work easier. The only consideration might be that the air is blowing on or
> around the passengers head vs coming in from the side. But I really don't
> think that's big deal. If I were doing it over I might consider doing what
> you're thinking of.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
> rv(at)thelefflers.com>* *Subject: * *Air vent question*
> For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
>
>
> What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy
> with your
> decision?
>
>
> If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left
> the
> vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
>
>
> As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am
> looking
> for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision. At
> the
> moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing
> the
> opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver
> ample air
> via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also think this
> would
> minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the
> vents.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
You can put them on at just about any time. I installed mine while I was still
fitting the canopy and the forward tailcone skin was still off, but I can see
how it could be done at any time by pulling the panels for the tailcone access.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243257#243257
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Air vent question |
You can put the naca vents in at any time. It isn't a big deal until the
canopy and the top skin of the tail cone are permanently installed. I
haven't cut the hole yet in my tail cone, but will most likely be doing it
right after I attach the tail cone to the fuselage.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Trollinger
Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air vent question
When did you put the naca vents in the tail cone as I am thinking of doing
the overhead console thing as well, but my tail cone is already built.
On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 8:07 AM, Wayne Edgerton
wrote:
Hi Bob,
With the overhead console, I really don't think you need the side air vents,
or at least in my plane I wouldn't. The overheads in my plane deliver a lot
of air. With the side ones closed off it would also make your interior work
easier. The only consideration might be that the air is blowing on or around
the passengers head vs coming in from the side. But I really don't think
that's big deal. If I were doing it over I might consider doing what you're
thinking of.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time:
From:
"Bob Leffler"
Subject:
Air vent question
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy with
your
decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left
the
vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am
looking
for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision. At
the
moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing
the
opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver
ample air
via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also think this would
minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the
vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
What engine setting are people using ? My oil consumption seems to have
stabilized. So I'm backing off the high MP and RPM settings and looking
for that 'sweet spot'. So far it seems that the engine runs smoother @
2300 RPM and above, below that I seem to pick up some engine vibration
(probably need to get the prop balanced). What setting are folks using.
I'm still ROP and expect to stay that way for a while, So i'll wait for
the LOP discussion/s.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
12.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips... |
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine MP & RPM |
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> What engine setting are people using ? My oil consumption seems to have
> stabilized. So I'm backing off the high MP and RPM settings and looking
> for that 'sweet spot'. So far it seems that the engine runs smoother @
> 2300 RPM and above, below that I seem to pick up some engine vibration
> (probably need to get the prop balanced).
Best thing you can do to your engine, airframe, and instruments ....
well, the steam gauge kind. Have the prop balanced at your chosen
cruise RPM.
You might play with the mixture again when you throttle back to see if
it makes a difference with the vibration.
Linn
What setting are folks using.
> I'm still ROP and expect to stay that way for a while, So i'll wait for
> the LOP discussion/s.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> 12.5 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips... |
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I filled mine in solid. In my opinion, while simple and efficient, they looked
tacky and "homemade", and made a nice finished interior sidewall difficult.
I am definitely doing an overhead panel and most likely air conditioning.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243317#243317
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Fired up today for our first short taxi test. The engine would not run over 1350
RPM WOT. Fuel pressure was 48 PSI. After shutting down we pulled the plugs,
they were all black, way black. Indicating the engine was very rich. The
air box had raw fuel in it. We have an Airflow Performance injection.
We didn't have this problem during our last test run. Since then we have performed
the service bulletin on the mags, I double checked the timing. I did not
try to lean the engine using mixture, I think the richness may be caused by the
excess fuel pressure, and not the actual mixture setting. I could be wrong
but I don't think the mixture would be that far off.
Any thoughts??
Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build
N44YH - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243333#243333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich |
There is a service bulletin on the RSA fuel injection systems. I don't have
it here to get the numbers, but if I remember right, that is the failure
mod......you lose power. There is a screw on the side of the controller
that needs to be checked.....
Just an idea.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 7:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich
Fired up today for our first short taxi test. The engine would not run over
1350 RPM WOT. Fuel pressure was 48 PSI. After shutting down we pulled the
plugs, they were all black, way black. Indicating the engine was very rich.
The air box had raw fuel in it. We have an Airflow Performance injection.
We didn't have this problem during our last test run. Since then we have
performed the service bulletin on the mags, I double checked the timing. I
did not try to lean the engine using mixture, I think the richness may be
caused by the excess fuel pressure, and not the actual mixture setting. I
could be wrong but I don't think the mixture would be that far off.
Any thoughts??
Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build
N44YH - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243333#243333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich |
He has AirFlow Perfomance injection, not RSA, so should not have that
issue. I'm still trying to figure how he gets fuel pressure 50% above
redline.
Rene wrote:
>
> There is a service bulletin on the RSA fuel injection systems. I don't have
> it here to get the numbers, but if I remember right, that is the failure
> mod......you lose power. There is a screw on the side of the controller
> that needs to be checked.....
>
> Just an idea.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 7:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich
>
>
>
> Fired up today for our first short taxi test. The engine would not run over
> 1350 RPM WOT. Fuel pressure was 48 PSI. After shutting down we pulled the
> plugs, they were all black, way black. Indicating the engine was very rich.
> The air box had raw fuel in it. We have an Airflow Performance injection.
>
> We didn't have this problem during our last test run. Since then we have
> performed the service bulletin on the mags, I double checked the timing. I
> did not try to lean the engine using mixture, I think the richness may be
> caused by the excess fuel pressure, and not the actual mixture setting. I
> could be wrong but I don't think the mixture would be that far off.
>
> Any thoughts??
>
> Jason Kreidler
> 4-Partner Build
> N44YH - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243333#243333
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Seemed to run OK on the first run up, we had normal fuel pressures around 30.
I understand the theory behind leaning while on the ground, but if the idle mixture
has been set correctly leaning on the ground is not required (for 'standard'
conditions). This is according to the folks at Airflow Performance. The
manual provided with our fuel controller goes through this procedure.
Leaning also does not explain the high fuel pressure......
Thanks, Jason
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243351#243351
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
John,
I put mine in after the fact, so that's not an issue, however I bought
one of the first overheads from Tony S and his plan called for an air
intake at the base of the VS incorporated into the fairing. It was
something of a pain to put in if I'm honest. But I see now where most
are putting the naca vents just behind the baggage wall area which is a
much easier way than the way I did mine. If I were building now I would
be doing it that way.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Subject: Re: Air vent question
From: John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com>
When did you put the naca vents in the tail cone as I am thinking
of doing
the overhead console thing as well, but my tail cone is already
built.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent question |
Like most folks, I put my NACA vents right behind the baggage
compartment. In hindsight, the pressure is probably higher farther
aft. I did have some concern with disturbing the flow over the static
vents, though, so may farther forward is OK after all. Finally, most
people who post seem to think that there's adequate flow from the more
forward location.
FWIW
John
On May 10, 2009, at 4:16 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> John,
>
> I put mine in after the fact, so that's not an issue, however I
> bought one of the first overheads from Tony S and his plan called
> for an air intake at the base of the VS incorporated into the
> fairing. It was something of a pain to put in if I'm honest. But I
> see now where most are putting the naca vents just behind the
> baggage wall area which is a much easier way than the way I did
> mine. If I were building now I would be doing it that way.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
> Subject: Re: Air vent question
> From: John Trollinger
>
> When did you put the naca vents in the tail cone as I am
> thinking of doing
> the overhead console thing as well, but my tail cone is
> already built.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heat selector box assembly diagram |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I was looking all over the plans yesterday for the hardware and assembly diagram
of the TG-10 heat selector boxes. Could not find it anywhere. Searched the forums,
found nothing but a couple of post of others looking for it.
Today, i finally found it on the back of a hardware list page. I attached it here
just in case someone else is or will be looking for it.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243411#243411
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tg10_10_243.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich |
| From: | nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com |
Jason,
I am not real familiar with?mechanical fuel injection but on a car high fuel pressure
is usually caused by a blocked return line and the pump putting out max
pressure.
Jeff
#648
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Sent: Sat, 9 May 2009 8:48 pm
Subject: RV10-List: High Fuel Pressure - Extreme Rich
Fired up today for our first short taxi test. The engine would not run over
1350 RPM WOT. Fuel pressure was 48 PSI. After shutting down we pulled the
plugs, they were all black, way black. Indicating the engine was very rich.
The air box had raw fuel in it. We have an Airflow Performance injection.
We didn't have this problem during our last test run. Since then we have
performed the service bulletin on the mags, I double checked the timing. I did
not try to lean the engine using mixture, I think the richness may be caused by
the excess fuel pressure, and not the actual mixture setting. I could be wrong
but I don't think the mixture would be that far off.
Any thoughts??
Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build
N44YH - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243333#243333
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat selector box assembly diagram |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I was looking for this hardware list, and could not find it. I found it on the
other side of the TG-10 heat selector, when I no longer needed it.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243427#243427
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Heat selector box assembly diagram |
Page 27-6 of the fuselage plans.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Heat selector box assembly diagram
I was looking all over the plans yesterday for the hardware and assembly
diagram of the TG-10 heat selector boxes. Could not find it anywhere.
Searched the forums, found nothing but a couple of post of others looking
for it.
Today, i finally found it on the back of a hardware list page. I attached it
here just in case someone else is or will be looking for it.
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243411#243411
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tg10_10_243.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips... |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Matt,
I know someone that can laser engrave it. If you want their number, drop me a line.
Regards,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243487#243487
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front wheel service |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I use a loop of 1" nylon webbing through the upper tubes of the engine mount, then
lift with my engine hoist. Get the stuff climbers use, not the HD stuff. Climbers
webbing is good for 6,000 lbs.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243546#243546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Heads up for GRT users |
The latest software requires selecting the nav mode to be used. While
driving today I noticed that the GRT VOR CDI did not display on the Sport
even though a valid vor freq. had been selected. On the Cheltons the OBS CDI
must be selected to use GPS, NAV1 or NAV2. If the GRT PFD soft key is not
selected to Nav, the vor needle will not display. Another surprise when
updating software.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need ideas to remove aft crank plug for C/S prop |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Drilled a new hole in the old plug. Threaded in a self tapping bolt and popped
it out using an el-cheapo slide hammer from Harbor Freight. Unscrewed the bolt
using a channel lock and fished the plug out with a magnet. The new plug was
inserted using a magnet and seated by tapping on two brass rods.
A shopvac, magnet and oily rag got the metal shavings out. It took maybe half and
hour once all the right tools were in hand. All in all, there are lots of other
harder things to do on the project... once it's in the rear view mirror.
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243891#243891
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos of Van's Strobe sidewall mount? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
photos attached.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243908#243908
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_0626_400.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_0627_179.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts |
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to
about
1/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I
found the
forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse
skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches
compared
to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with
it? I
spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for
him. I
guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts |
Must be short term memory, I believe I had a similar conversation with him
a couple months back. I just fit the door based on pictures and look along
with making sure it had even spacing from the inside.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to about 1
/8" from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door halve
s and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the window
index holes didn't align - two were off by =BD". Next I found the forward i
ndex hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse skin. TRhe d
oor index holes is high by at least a couple of inches compared to the hole
in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with it?
I spoke to Ken Scott at Van's who mentioned that this was a first for him.
I guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Covered in f/g dust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?=0A=0AI am up to Section 28 where you join the fo
rward and mid fuselage assemblies together and I'm finding that some of the
smaller spar attachment bolts are really tight, whilst others slip into th
e holes fine.- All the bigger bolts are fine.=0A=0AIf anyone has a realis
tic solution could you please let me know as I'm loath to do anything that
will upset the holes in the carry through spars.=0A=0AMany thanks in antici
pation.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299--- VH-XPP=0AAd
elaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday
of your choice. Enter now.http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpB
F9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZG1lY2gDVGV4dCBMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQD
WWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YWdsaW5lBHRtX3BwdHkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/
/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline/creativeholidays/*http%3A//au.docs.yahoo.com/
homepageset/%3Fp1=other%26p2=au%26p3=mailtagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblie
s together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts a
re really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine. All the bigger bo
lts are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loat
h to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.<http://us.
lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpBF9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZG1lY2gDVGV4dC
BMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQDWWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YWdsaW5lBHRtX3Bwd
HkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline/creative
holidays/*http%3A/au.docs.yahoo.com/homepageset/%3Fp1=other%26p2=au%26p
3=mailtagline%0a>.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Only if this is the final install of the wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 3:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblies
together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts are
really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine. All the bigger bolts
are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loath
to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpBF9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZG1lY2
gDVGV4dCBMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQDWWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YWdsaW5lBH
RtX3BwdHkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline/crea
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=mailtagline%0a> .
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http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Yes Patrick so in the freezer for a night then a "slight tap" with a
small rubber mallat.
Chris
ICY
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency
amongst the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage
assemblies together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar
attachment bolts are really tight, whilst others slip into the holes
fine. All the bigger bolts are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm
loath to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through
spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
I agree. If it's just to pin them together, I just use a set of 3/8
bolts (4/wing) and hold it together with that. Some grease wouldn't
hurt either.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On May 15, 2009, at 7:29 AM, "David McNeill" wrote:
> Only if this is the final install of the wings
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 3:51 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
>
> Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
> Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
>
>
> Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency
> amongst the wing attachment bolts?
>
>
> I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage
> assemblies together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar
> attachment bolts are really tight, whilst others slip into the holes
> fine. All the bigger bolts are fine.
>
>
> If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as
> I'm loath to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry
> through spars.
>
>
> Many thanks in anticipation.
>
>
> Regards
>
>
> Patrick Pulis
>
> RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
> Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now..
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> <>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
Les
There are numerous issues with the door, the least being the index holes not
being right. All fixable but troublesome. Try a search but if that does not
help there are many here on the list who have gone before.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Since this is just a temporary installation to align the two spars, go to
your local aviation supply's(i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Minard's, etc) bolt
dept and get some slightly undersized bolts. Leave the ones from Van's for
the final mounting on the wings.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblies
together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts are
really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine. All the bigger bolts
are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loath
to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpBF9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZG1lY2
gDVGV4dCBMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQDWWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YWdsaW5lBH
RtX3BwdHkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline/crea
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question for the door experts |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Les,
I just finished what you are talking about a few days ago. You are right, the window
index holes don't line up. I discovered the culprits were the top ones,
so I clecoed the bottom ones, pressed the halves together as best I could and
drilled new top ones.
As far as the fore and aft index hole tabs, I initially found similar issues, but
discovered the aft hole tab is the critical one. Be careful about the TWO holes
you can use on the aft tab. It's the lower one. If you cleco it first, the
front one will line up. At least it should.
One problem I had was I hadn't done a great job on cutting the canopy opening and
some of it needed a little last-minute trimming to get the doors in properly.
If you still have the tabs on, measure the distance between the two factory holes,
then measure the distance between the two fuselage holes. They should be the
same or very close (allowing for some curve).
When you get to the hinges, don't waste your time cutting 1/8" aluminum shims like
I did. Just use a couple of tongue depressors. All you're trying to do is
give the hinges some basic alignment and a little wiggle room.
Speaking of the hinges, make SURE you have properly identified each and every piece
as Left or Right. My door half ones had no markings and you have to look
very close to see the difference.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244120#244120
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Sorry, I know better than to respond before my morning coffee. Everyone
is correct, if this is not a final assembly get some other bolts for the te
mp fits. The close tolerance bolts lose their close tolerance if they go i
n and out a couple times.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Since this is just a temporary installation to align the two spars, go to
your local aviation supply's(i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Minard's, etc) bolt de
pt and get some slightly undersized bolts. Leave the ones from Van's for
the final mounting on the wings.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblie
s together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts a
re really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine. All the bigger bo
lts are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loat
h to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.<http://us.
lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpBF9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZG1lY2gDVGV4dC
BMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQDWWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YWdsaW5lBHRtX3Bwd
HkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/tagline/creative
holidays/*http%3A/au.docs.yahoo.com/homepageset/%3Fp1=other%26p2=au%26p
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
Use 4-1/2 by =C2-3/8 bolts, cut the threads off and grind =C2-a pointy/
rounded, polished edge. You will need these to do the wing install. The rea
son the bolts fit so tight is 1), they are close tolerance and=C2-2) I do
n't think=C2-Vans took=C2-into consideration the thousandth of an inch
the anodizing adds the the inside diameter of the bored hole in the spar.
I used the actual bolts to do the assembly. The hardware bolts are just a t
ad to small for my personal alignment toleramces.=C2-When you do the fina
l install freezing the bolts and lubing only the shank=C2-portion of the
bolt helps the install. It is almost impossible to get them aligned and ins
talled =C2-without using the modified 3/8 bolts you made to align the hol
es. =C2-
Rick Sked
N246RS
Paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 5:57:12 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Since this is just a temporary installation to align the two spars,=C2- g
o to your local aviation supply=99s(i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Minard
=99s, etc) bolt dept and get some slightly undersized bolts.=C2-=C2-
Leave the ones from Van=99s for the final mounting on the wings.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblie
s together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts a
re really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine.=C2- All the bigg
er bolts are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loat
h to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299=C2-=C2-=C2- VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now. . =C2-
=C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =C2- http://fo
rums.matronics.com =C2- http://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =C2
- =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forum
=====
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts |
Hi Michael
Thanks for the comments.
/Rant on
I am beginning to question the value of Van=92s tech support. On more
than
one occasion I have gotten the =93I=92ve never heard of that before=94
only to
find that was not the case. It really ticks me off to vague or
non-answers
or non answers to specific questions. In the case of the doors, they
should
a) confirm that is a problem and b) give specific instructions as to how
to
deal with it. As a first time builder who has very limited local
support, I
expect to ask a lot of questions that may seem obvious to the master
builders at Van=92s. I don=92t expect to get a condescending attitude!
/Rant off
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: May-14-09 7:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts
Must be short term memory, I believe I had a similar conversation with
him a
couple months back. I just fit the door based on pictures and look
along
with making sure it had even spacing from the inside.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to
about
1/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I
found the
forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse
skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches
compared
to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with
it? I
spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for
him. I
guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I used 1/8 hardware store bolts inside of common automotive fuel tubing, along
with some washers and wing nuts for assembly.
Fit perfectly in the smaller holes, held everything tight, kept the final assembly
bolts virgin, and didn't mar the inside of the holes.
Everything aligned up perfectly when joining the fuselage sections together later.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244128#244128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
One tip. When doing the final install, I had to tap the bolts in. I
used a small piece of hard rubber and my rivet gun with a flat set. Low
pressure..tap tap tap. I started with a rubber mallet, but it
is hard to swing. The only caution with the rivet gun is to keep the
taps light.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Use 4-1/2 by 3/8 bolts, cut the threads off and grind a pointy/rounded,
polished edge. You will need these to do the wing install. The reason
the bolts fit so tight is 1), they are close tolerance and 2) I don't
think Vans took into consideration the thousandth of an inch the
anodizing adds the the inside diameter of the bored hole in the spar.
I used the actual bolts to do the assembly. The hardware bolts are just
a tad to small for my personal alignment toleramces. When you do the
final install freezing the bolts and lubing only the shank portion of
the bolt helps the install. It is almost impossible to get them aligned
and installed without using the modified 3/8 bolts you made to align the
holes.
Rick Sked
N246RS
Paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 5:57:12 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Since this is just a temporary installation to align the two spars, go
to your local aviation supply=99s(i.e. Home Depot, Lowes,
Minard=99s, etc) bolt dept and get some slightly undersized bolts.
Leave the ones from Van=99s for the final mounting on the wings.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency
amongst the wing attachment bolts?
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage
assemblies together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar
attachment bolts are really tight, whilst others slip into the holes
fine. All the bigger bolts are fine.
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm
loath to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through
spars.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.
<http://us.lrd.yahoo.com/_ylc=X3oDMTJxN2x2ZmNpBF9zAzIwMjM2MTY2MTMEdG1fZ
G1lY2gDVGV4dCBMaW5rBHRtX2xuawNVMTEwMzk3NwR0bV9uZXQDWWFob28hBHRtX3BvcwN0YW
dsaW5lBHRtX3BwdHkDYXVueg--/SIG=14600t3ni/**http%3A/au.rd.yahoo.com/mail
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question for the door experts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Les, it is just that there is so much better support right here. I
know I have yet to call Van's for support.
I suspect if they take a fair number of calls, their memory of
previous calls is poor. What would it cost Van's to have support staff
enter call subjects/answers into computer, so that is short time they
would have some real documentation of where problems exist and how to
fix them. When they take calls on anything from RV3 to RV12, they
probably don't develop much collective memory
On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 6:44 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> /Rant on
>
>
> I am beginning to question the value of Vans tech support. On more than
> one occasion I have gotten the Ive never heard of that before only to
> find that was not the case. It really ticks me off to vague or non-answers
> or non answers to specific questions. In the case of the doors, they should
> a) confirm that is a problem and b) give specific instructions as to how to
> deal with it. As a first time builder who has very limited local support, I
> expect to ask a lot of questions that may seem obvious to the master
> builders at Vans. I dont expect to get a condescending attitude!
>
>
> /Rant off
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Quick Build update? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I realize it has only been a month since Van's put out a letter on the
subject, hidden in an obscure area of their web site, but has anyone
had any updates?
IIRC there were a few folks that ordered in December that still don't
have their QB parts. Have they really shipped any RV-10 assemblies
from the Philippines yet?
It is going to be frustrating going through buildus interuptus for
lack of parts. With any luck they will have my stuff ready to ship the
week before OSH.
Kelly
40866
finishing tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Quick Build update? |
There have been updates every couple days. The link is one the bottom of
their home page.
The update yesterday was that the RV-10 parts were on the boat and should be
in Van's hands in about a month.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 10:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick Build update?
I realize it has only been a month since Van's put out a letter on the
subject, hidden in an obscure area of their web site, but has anyone
had any updates?
IIRC there were a few folks that ordered in December that still don't
have their QB parts. Have they really shipped any RV-10 assemblies
from the Philippines yet?
It is going to be frustrating going through buildus interuptus for
lack of parts. With any luck they will have my stuff ready to ship the
week before OSH.
Kelly
40866
finishing tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build update? |
Thanks, I had never scrolled to the bottom of their home page!
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> There have been updates every couple days. The link is one the bottom of
> their home page.
>
> The update yesterday was that the RV-10 parts were on the boat and should be
> in Van's hands in about a month.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-540 Available |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
Guys & Gals,
I have a beautiful IO-540 that has 100 smoh & 800 snew (new cylinders,
9.5:1 pistons, & crankshaft). This engine was removed from a Lancair,
has 260+ HP and runs very smooth. It has two new alternators, prop
governor, oil cooler, starter, and mags. Warranty. I have pics.
It needs a home in an RV-10.
Tom Lawson
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTI97wbFvxKUy6Xc96f8HQkjej3raEo40wd4VbZF2uJoOxeixDypeY/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tight Wing Attach Bolts |
For the final install, it also doesn't hurt to take the heat gun to each ho
le prior to sticking the bolt in.=C2- Also, lube up the bolt a bit.
Don
--- On Fri, 5/15/09, Rene Felker wrote:
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Date: Friday, May 15, 2009, 7:09 AM
One tip.=C2- When doing the final install, I had to tap the bolts in.=C2
- I used a small piece of hard rubber and my rivet gun with a flat set.
=C2- Low pressure..tap tap tap.=C2- I started with a rubber ma
llet, but it is hard to swing.=C2- The only caution with the rivet gun is
to keep the taps light.
=C2-
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
=C2-
Use 4-1/2 by=C2-3/8 bolts, cut the threads off and grind=C2-a pointy/ro
unded, polished edge. You will need these to do the wing install. The reaso
n the bolts fit so tight is 1), they are close tolerance and=C2-2) I don'
t think=C2-Vans took=C2-into consideration the thousandth of an inch th
e anodizing adds the the inside diameter of the bored hole in the spar.
=C2-
I used the actual bolts to do the assembly. The hardware bolts are just a t
ad to small for my personal alignment toleramces.=C2-When you do the fina
l install freezing the bolts and lubing only the shank=C2-portion of the
bolt helps the install. It is almost impossible to get them aligned and ins
talled=C2-without using the modified 3/8 bolts you made to align the hole
s.=C2-
=C2-
Rick Sked
N246RS
Paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 5:57:12 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
Since this is just a temporary installation to align the two spars,=C2- g
o to your local aviation supply=99s(i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Minard
=99s, etc) bolt dept and get some slightly undersized bolts.=C2-=C2-
Leave the ones from Van=99s for the final mounting on the wings.
=C2-
Bob
=C2-
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
=C2-
Throw the tight ones in the freezer overnight and give it a try again.
=C2-
Michael
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tight Wing Attach Bolts
=C2-
Could anyone please tell me if they have experienced inconsistency amongst
the wing attachment bolts?
=C2-
I am up to Section 28 where you join the forward and mid fuselage assemblie
s together and I'm finding that some of the smaller spar attachment bolts a
re really tight, whilst others slip into the holes fine.=C2- All the bigg
er bolts are fine.
=C2-
If anyone has a realistic solution could you please let me know as I'm loat
h to do anything that will upset the holes in the carry through spars.
=C2-
Many thanks in anticipation.
=C2-
Regards
=C2-
Patrick Pulis
RV-10 #40299=C2-=C2-=C2- VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
=C2-
Need a Holiday? Win a $10,000 Holiday of your choice. Enter now.. =C2-=C2
-=C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=C2-http://forums.ma
tronics.com=C2-http://www.matronics.com/contribution=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comh
ttp://www.matronics.com/contribution=C2- =C2- =C2-get=_blank>http:/
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://forums.matronics.comblank>http://
www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con
tribution =C2-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Upper intersection leg fairing |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I can't find any comments on Tim's or Deems site about how you construct the upper
leg intersection fairing.
Are you applying the 2 layers of glass to each one? If so, are you doing it on
the plane? If so, how are you holding it to the fuselage while applying the
glass?
I have trimmed the fairings and drilled the 4 holes and clecoed them to the fuselage.
I am happy so far. Now how do you add the glass while the clecos are
holding the fairing in place? [Shocked]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244232#244232
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
I built them up with additional layers of glass before fitting to the
fuse. here's a link to a photo album:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2048%20Gear%20Leg%20&%20Wheel%20Fairings/slides/DSC03905.html
follow the links on the left of the page to additional pictures.
Here's links to the build log:
http://deemsrv10.com/48-10&48-11.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/48-11&48-12.htm
I later decided to attach the lower intersection fairings directly to
the wheel pants, Additional pictures:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2048%20Gear%20Leg%20&%20Wheel%20Fairings/slides/DSC04260.html
Note: I haven't installed these on the 'finished; aircraft yet
Deems
N519PJ 16.5 hrs
orchidman wrote:
>
> I can't find any comments on Tim's or Deems site about how you construct the
upper leg intersection fairing.
> Are you applying the 2 layers of glass to each one? If so, are you doing it
on the plane? If so, how are you holding it to the fuselage while applying the
glass?
>
> I have trimmed the fairings and drilled the 4 holes and clecoed them to the fuselage.
I am happy so far. Now how do you add the glass while the clecos are
holding the fairing in place? [Shocked]
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Final Finishing - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244232#244232
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts - Redux |
Hi
I called Van's again today and spoke to Scott Risan (the GM) who answered
the tech support line. He was very, very helpful and a pleasure to deal
with. I asked about the door gap and he took the following photos to help
guide me.
His explanation about the gaps was also quite informative.
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: scottr(at)vansaircraft.com [mailto:scottr(at)vansaircraft.com]
Sent: May-15-09 11:31 AM
Subject: rv-10 door photos
Here's a few photos of the doors on our 10. Outside shots for reference to
door position
relative to the top.
The clearance depicted in dwg 45-04 (1/16-1/8") is optimal but not
necessary. Its a bit of a
cosmetic thing but will not affect how the door functions. You could have
much wider gaps
than called out all the way around without affecting function...and in my
opinion, without
affecting 'looks' much at all. I'd say from a cosmetic standpoint, shoot
for an 'even' gap on
each section of the door...top, sides, bottom...but not necessarily the same
on all
sides...bottom will be wider than the rest, for sure. As you can see from
the photos, this
clearance varies quite a bit on the sides and top on our plane and is
especially wide (3/8"-
1/2") at the bottom. All these photos were taken with the door pulled in
tight and latched.
give us a call or email if you have more questions.
scott at vans'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question for the door experts - Redux |
Scott Risan is one of the bright spots @ Van's.
The sad thing about the doors, is that Van's accepts a lower standard
for their fiberglass components than they do for their alum/machined
components. They have received countless amounts of feedback on the
subject. And the only visible improvement is that the materials went
from green to pink. There's no reason that the same computer controlled
CNC technology used to produce the alum components could not be employed
to produce quality molds for the larger fiberglass components. Even if
they insisted on continuing with hand layups it would be a dramatic
improvement. Going to pre-peg cloth and autoclaved lay-ups would yield
yet another leap in quality, (and a dramatic reduction in build time).
It will never happen, but it could/should.
Deems
still itching........
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> I called Van's again today and spoke to Scott Risan (the GM) who answered
> the tech support line. He was very, very helpful and a pleasure to deal
> with. I asked about the door gap and he took the following photos to help
> guide me.
>
> His explanation about the gaps was also quite informative.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scottr(at)vansaircraft.com [mailto:scottr(at)vansaircraft.com]
> Sent: May-15-09 11:31 AM
> To: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> Subject: rv-10 door photos
>
> Here's a few photos of the doors on our 10. Outside shots for reference to
> door position
> relative to the top.
>
> The clearance depicted in dwg 45-04 (1/16-1/8") is optimal but not
> necessary. Its a bit of a
> cosmetic thing but will not affect how the door functions. You could have
> much wider gaps
> than called out all the way around without affecting function...and in my
> opinion, without
> affecting 'looks' much at all. I'd say from a cosmetic standpoint, shoot
> for an 'even' gap on
> each section of the door...top, sides, bottom...but not necessarily the same
> on all
> sides...bottom will be wider than the rest, for sure. As you can see from
> the photos, this
> clearance varies quite a bit on the sides and top on our plane and is
> especially wide (3/8"-
> 1/2") at the bottom. All these photos were taken with the door pulled in
> tight and latched.
>
> give us a call or email if you have more questions.
>
> scott at vans'
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
I didn't like the way the Van's uppers fit, so we built our own.
Make sure you max the tape prior to applying the glass.
Don McDonald
--- On Fri, 5/15/09, orchidman wrote:
From: orchidman <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Upper intersection leg fairing
Date: Friday, May 15, 2009, 6:11 PM
I can't find any comments on Tim's or Deems site about how you construct th
e upper leg intersection fairing.
Are you applying the 2 layers of glass to each one?- If so, are you doing
it on the plane?- If so, how are you holding it to the fuselage while ap
plying the glass?
I have trimmed the fairings and drilled the 4 holes and clecoed them to the
fuselage.- I am happy so far.- Now how do you add the glass while the
clecos are holding the fairing in place?- [Shocked]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244232#244232
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Don,
what is the name of the blue stuff that you used to model the fairing with?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244246#244246
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
Clay...... wife bought it at Michael's.- Easy to form, not as easy to get
it all off.... but that doesn't matter much.... after you get off what you
can, use a heat gun.... but don't burn the glass.... it kind of rolls righ
t off.--
Don
--- On Fri, 5/15/09, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Upper intersection leg fairing
Date: Friday, May 15, 2009, 11:39 PM
>
Hi Don,
what is the name of the blue stuff that you used to model the fairing with?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244246#244246
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Deems Davis wrote:
> I built them up with additional layers of glass before fitting to the
> fuse. here's a link to a photo album:
> ...
> Here's links to the build log:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/48-10&48-11.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/48-11&48-12.htm
>
> I later decided to attach the lower intersection fairings directly to
> the wheel pants, Additional pictures:
> ...
> Deems
> N519PJ 16.5 hrs
>
Deems,
I saw those to pages but didn't read them slow enough the first time. It is falling
into place. This is the last thing to do construction wise. Now if I can
just get the Feds out. They are scheduled this next week and I hope to be
taking off exactly one week from now. SUBJECT TO CHANGE! :D
Thanks all.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244260#244260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upper intersection leg fairing |
You can also get blue foam insulation from Lowes or other building
supply places. My Home Depot didn't have it. It's messy, but I think
it'll dissolve with gasoline.
Linn
Don McDonald wrote:
> Clay...... wife bought it at Michael's. Easy to form, not as easy to
> get it all off.... but that doesn't matter much.... after you get off
> what you can, use a heat gun.... but don't burn the glass.... it kind of
> rolls right off.
> Don
>
> --- On *Fri, 5/15/09, Michael Wellenzohn //* wrote:
>
>
> From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Upper intersection leg fairing
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, May 15, 2009, 11:39 PM
>
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv-10@wellenzohn.net>>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> what is the name of the blue stuff that you used to model the
> fairing with?
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244246#244246>ht="http://forums.matronics.com/"
> target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.c
> &nbsf="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" ======
>
>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Has anybody ever bought the doors before the rest of the finish kit?
I would like to get started on the doors but don't want to spend all the money
for the finish kit yet. Does anybody know if this is possible? :? [/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244276#244276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Hi guys,
I have heard that you shouldn't apply polyester over epoxy. My question is can
you use polyester body filler over an epoxy finish? I am using Evercoat Extreme
Gold body filler on my RV10 fiberglass cabin top. The area I am curious about
is the epoxy glass layup at the bottom of the window to cowl area. Do you
know if this is OK on the epoxy layup or will I have to mix epoxy and micro-balloons
for the fill?
Thanks,
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244277#244277
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Since shipping alone for the finish kit was $990.00, I recommend you save
the wasted extra shipping charge and get the whole kit.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (475 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mds4878
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 1:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Buying Doors
Has anybody ever bought the doors before the rest of the finish kit?
I would like to get started on the doors but don't want to spend all the
money for the finish kit yet. Does anybody know if this is possible? :? [/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244276#244276
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buying Doors |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Shipping would be free my friend trucks right buy them on his way home once a week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244300#244300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buying Doors |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey MDS,
Maybe I've missed the point of your question, but everyone (us included) needs
to have the canopy installed so that when you put the inner and outer shells of
the doors together they conform to the exact curve of the canopy ...? Bounce
back if that doesn't address your issue.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244307#244307
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buying Doors |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Already have the canopy fitted and want to work on the doors. I figure the doors
will take up a good share of my summer before I need the rest of the kit. When
I'm done with the doors than I can start to make molds for interior trim panels.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244308#244308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buying Doors |
| From: | "mds4878" <mike(at)profishenterprises.com> |
Thanks for the advice. I have a perfection problem from my days of building corvettes
for shows and won't stop until every line and gap is perfect. Also door
seal crush will be exact. This illness takes a lot of time and money to get relief.
8)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244317#244317
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
While I was finishing my fuel tanks, my friend stopped by to watch me. He asked
me what happens if they leak? I told him about the green wicking loctite that
is commonly used for leaks. He then began to tell me at his work they work
on 1000psi fuel pumps which are tested for leaks. If they leak, they use the
green loctite. He told me it works great for the high pressure leaks. That
made me feel a lot better if they leak in three weeks when I test them. It also
made me believe it would make others out there who are working on the tanks
or will work on the tanks feel better about fixing leaks on the fuel tanks.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244333#244333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone (Rick
Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been using lacquer
thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active ingredient. Is
this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Les,
Wash all the parts first in dawn dish soap and hot water....then I wiped everything
down with acetone, I used Loehle wonder fill then their black high dill primer
sanded and patched the weave with Metal glaze and shot white high fill primer...were
doing that as I write this. Acetone is just a good cleaner to get
stubborn mold release out if present after washing...the thinned epoxy was not
needed with the wonderfull but I did use it on the cowl due to the potential
oil and fuel exposure
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandra & Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Starting finally |
Hi all
Well it's taken about 5 years to get to this point, but as of Thursday May
14, I became builder #40956. I've finally gotten to a point where I have
enough time to build. I've been following this group since the yahoo list
days so it's been a long time in the making.
My spouse and I were on a vacation in Oregon so I showed up at the Aurora
airport and ordered the tail kit. In typical Vans fashion my order was met
with no fan fare what so ever (not even a thankyou), not that I expected any
. None the less I'm pumped and looking forward to the build.
I learned to fly 32 years ago, have a commercial ticket, multi, single IFR,
presently co-own a '76 FG Cardinal and am located in Southampton, Ont.
I'm going to be at Oshkosh for a few days this year so hopefully can put
some faces to names that I recognize.
I also had a personal demonstration of the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
while I was in the Aurora area and want to thank Rob Hickman for his time.
For someone who has flown IFR behind "steam gauges" for as long as I have,
the new PFD's and MFD's are amazing.
Anyway keep expounding all your wisdom on me as I'm sure I'm going to need
it.
Rick Lark #40956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | =?us-ascii?Q?PosiStrobeXPT__Combination_Tail_Position_Light/Strobe_Light? |
I bought this light from Aircraft Spruce. The description below comes from
their Web catalog. The unit looks and works great but you may want to know
there is an issue with this light. This part no. will not flash the strobe
separately, it will strobe only when the tail light is also on. I contacted
the factory and they said "...What we can do is send you a different model
PosiXP that has a universal circuit board in it and which will permit you to
have whichever connection pattern you desire.... strobe on with light or
strobe off with light....."
They asked me to return the one I have and they would send the different
model out from the next production run in mid-June. BTW, this problem was
solved the same day I raised the issue with the manufacturer, aren't
airplane people great to deal with?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
>From Aircraft Spruce Web Catalog.
"PosiStrobeXPT, a higher performance mini-position / strobe, the all-new and
super bright PosiStrobeXPT. Integrating the most technologically-advanced
and brightest LEDs available in the world to the amazing and all-new
exclusive AveoOptimizerT circuitry.
White / White
Description Part Number Price
AveoFlash PosiStrobeXPT 9-32V 11-07361 $317.95" (actual price was $306)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am prepping the canopy interior surfaces for the upcoming interior and headliner
purchase from Abby at Flightline. When you get the interior pieces is there
a padded backing to it that covers minor surface blemishes of the fiberglass,
or is it just straight leather pieces that adhere to the surface? I have smoothed
out the 'veins' on the lid and am still sanding and smoothing, just want
to know how for to go on the sanding for the headliner and what areas won't be
covered and need to be finish sanded smooth.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244399#244399
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
The bulkhead panel sits on the forward edge of the corrugated panel and is about
1/4 thick overall. It covers the rivet line on the cabin top above the panel
------Original Message------
From: Eric_Kallio
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: May 17, 2009 10:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior prep
I am prepping the canopy interior surfaces for the upcoming interior and headliner
purchase from Abby at Flightline. When you get the interior pieces is there
a padded backing to it that covers minor surface blemishes of the fiberglass,
or is it just straight leather pieces that adhere to the surface? I have smoothed
out the 'veins' on the lid and am still sanding and smoothing, just want
to know how for to go on the sanding for the headliner and what areas won't be
covered and need to be finish sanded smooth.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244399#244399
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe Light |
Dan Langhout did an excellent write up on the posistrobexp from Aveo and the
suntail from AeroLEDs.
(http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42940)
I'm glad to hear that there is an upgrade in the works. Have you noticed
any RF issues with the posistrobexp as Dan reported?
Initial comparisons has the Suntail producing a brighter strobe output, but
at about $70 cost penalty.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe
Light
I bought this light from Aircraft Spruce. The description below comes from
their Web catalog. The unit looks and works great but you may want to know
there is an issue with this light. This part no. will not flash the strobe
separately, it will strobe only when the tail light is also on. I contacted
the factory and they said "...What we can do is send you a different model
PosiXP that has a universal circuit board in it and which will permit you to
have whichever connection pattern you desire.... strobe on with light or
strobe off with light....."
They asked me to return the one I have and they would send the different
model out from the next production run in mid-June. BTW, this problem was
solved the same day I raised the issue with the manufacturer, aren't
airplane people great to deal with?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
>From Aircraft Spruce Web Catalog.
"PosiStrobeXPT, a higher performance mini-position / strobe, the all-new and
super bright PosiStrobeXPT. Integrating the most technologically-advanced
and brightest LEDs available in the world to the amazing and all-new
exclusive AveoOptimizerT circuitry.
White / White
Description Part Number Price
AveoFlash PosiStrobeXPT 9-32V 11-07361 $317.95" (actual price was $306)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Hi Les=2C
I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV Smoothprime.
They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer thinner when pr
eparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to do with acetones
faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual solvents behind.
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Date: Sun=2C 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using
acetone (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have bee
n
using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active
ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
You will want to smooth out the inside of the top. There is no foam backing.
You will glue it right to the top. The top doesn't have to be sealed or any thing
like that, just get it smooth.
If you are going to put a center console in, it is best fit with the top off.
You will probably want to put the top on and dry fit the console a couple times
also. I believe most of us that are installing a console are attaching it with
the top off. It is much easier. Also you might want to attach the headliner
in the central area with the top off. It is much easier to apply the center
18 to 20 inches with the top up side down. Let it dry and install the top
for the last time.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244425#244425
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Vernon Smith
To: RV 10 list
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Hi Les,
I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer
thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to
do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual
solvents behind.
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
(Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active
ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep
work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://ww
w.matronics.com/contribution
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-----
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
You want to get rid of the powder from sanding that's down in the pores
...... it'll help everything stick better.
Linn
Dave Leikam wrote:
> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
> nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Vernon Smith
> *To:* RV 10 list
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> Hi Les,
>
> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
> Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting
> lacquer thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The
> reasoning had to do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not
> leaving residual solvents behind.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
> (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
> using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an
> active ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone
> for prep work?
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail. See how.
> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd1_052009>
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
You need to wash all oils and mold release agents off
or you will scrub them into the pin holes and con
taminate the surface when you sand them
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 18:23:54
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
| From: | David Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: David Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 17, 2009 at 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Scuffing with 80 grit then wiping with acetone is the standard prep before
applying resin. 80g mechanically opens up the material, then the acetone
washes and softens up the resin to make it ready for the resin.
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a nice
> bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Vernon Smith
> *To:* RV 10 list
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> Hi Les,
>
> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV Smoothprime.
> They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer thinner when
> preparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to do with acetones
> faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual solvents behind.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>
> ------------------------------
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>
> Hi
>
>
> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone (Rick
> Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been using lacquer
> thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active ingredient. Is
> this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> *
> *
>
>
--
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Eric,
April 30, 2009 - May 17, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-em