RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eo
May 26, 2009 - June 05, 2009
With no wheel pants it is requiring some right rudder trim and I am finding that
you have to watch your fuel distribution as it is easy to get a heavy wing.
I flew 2 times a day all 3 days of the weekend. One early morning, come back and
tear down, then do it again mid afternoon. Right now I am chasing an oil leak
around the pipe thread on the fittings going into the oil cooler. Also had
an intermittent #2 EGT which I think is fixed. Swapped #2 & #4 probes and now
all is working. May have been just the connectors. Time will tell if it comes
back. And that is all.
My speeds including stall speeds seem to be right on what Vans published or what
I would expect.
On takeoff, it is every bit a high performance airplane. It is a real joy landing.
Hit your speeds and you can grease it on.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245374#245374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slightly Off Topic: Quality Continual Flight Training |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
AV8ORJWC wrote:
> Too often I read posts of friends who talk of the ease of flying RVs and how
they don't need Advanced/Emergency Training. In my thirty six years of flying
I have lost way too many acquaintences and close friends. I want Advanced Training
for all RV-10 pilots and tomorrow is none to soon. Deems , Count me "IN".
Having just gone through the training and first flight, I can not agree more with
this. Insurance may want it, you should demand it of your self to take the
training. I am wondering if an hour of refresher training after 60 to 80 hours
would be in order. I am sure I will have developed some type of bad habits
by then. It might be as simple as flying with another experienced -10 pilot.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245375#245375
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slightly Off Topic: Quality Continual Flight Training |
C'mon guys ..... I've only had a little 30 min demo flight (that I paid
for) and y'all are starting to scare me!!!
But let me comment below:
John Cox wrote:
> Too often I read posts of friends who talk of the ease of flying RVs
> and how they don't need Advanced/Emergency Training. In my thirty
> six years of flying I have lost way too many acquaintences and close
> friends. I want Advanced Training for all RV-10 pilots and tomorrow
> is none to soon. Deems , Count me "IN".
Well John, We've been flying for about the same time ..... and probably
lost the same amount of friends ...... but I can honestly say that most
of the losses occurred when they were doing things they shouldn't have.
None of my missing friends left because they couldn't fly the airplane
(although there were some I wouldn't call 'skilled pilots).
> Saturday I lost a friend from work, Scott Resnick-49, who was flying a
> Lancair 320 (as the instructor, now with a wonderful widow and four
> great kids- fatherless) with the new, second owner (a non-builder - 29
> years old) of the Lancair. He was flying from Hillsboro, OR to his
> uncle's funeral in Prescott, AZ. They almost made it - NOT.
But you didn't say what caused the accident!
> I just read that the most prolific RV-10 builder in the world, Steve
> Raddatz has died in his RV when it collided in formation with
> another of my Red Star buddy's Nanchang CJ-6. As many of you know, I
> fly a Nanchang CJ-6A to OSH each year. The RV's wing fell off,
> crashing on the campus of a Community College. The Nanchang was
> damaged, but my friend BJ survived.
Truly fortunate that one survived! Midairs are most often fatal to all
involved. I feel your pain for Steve .... and am elated that one
survived. I love to fly formation ..... makes my 'trips' go faster
..... but (as I'm sure you're aware) the level of risk is 1,000 times
greater than just flying the airplane. I haven't flown one in formation
(remember the demo flight?) but it appears that it would make a very
good formation platform.
> You guy's talking of being Hot Sticks and the Easy To Fly RV-10's
> have a perspective I learned to shelve years ago.
Well, that's half right, I guess. I've not read of any 'Hot Sticks' on
my lists. To the contrary, I seem to detect a whole lot of humility.
> Let me say here. We are on different planets as I go back to crying
> a while longer. I don't ask why any more. I ask again..... Who is next?
Thank God we don't know! We do what we do because we really love the
activity .... OK, I'll admit it ..... I'm addicted ..... and accept the
risk. It's what sets us apart from the rest of the ground-attached
population.
> To Steve's partner and Steve's grieving/ surviving family... I deeply
> feel your loss.
I too feel the loss. I didn't know your friends ..... the names were
new to me ..... but they were kindred spirits ..... and, like the
friends I've lost, ...... will be missed terribly by their friends and
family. Sometimes Life sucks.
> His RV-10 creations were considered the best around by another RV-10
> builder on this list (and that builder I respect).
>
> Strive to be the safest pilot you can (Male or Female)...
It's important to a long life and enjoyment of our hobby. Anything less
will bite you in the butt.
> find a great instructor who can fly the RV-10 under the most difficult
> of circumstances.
Is there really one out there??? I think the breed is sufficiently
young for the 'super instructor' to still be in training.
> Don't buy the casual dialog.
I haven't seen that either. I haven't detected anything less than a
professional approach to the 'art' of flying the -10. I surely haven't
seen the 'if you got your ticket recently in a 150 then you shouldn't
have a problem with the -10' mentality.
> Let's raise a toast to Steve Raddatz's memory and kick off
> comprehensive and appropriate training that a few of us need - in his
> name. Let's raise the bar for RV-10's.
I'll drink to that!
Having said all this, I must say I don't know John .... except from this
list. I have to hope that some of the comments he's made here (and
which I responded to) are borne of the pain from his (and our) losses.
I only hope that if I depart this world early, that somebody will feel
about me as John feels about his friends.
I had a tough time yesterday remembering some of my fellow Vets that
have gone before me ...... and I'm grateful that we don't honer them
every week (as maybe we should) because it's painful for me. And maybe
I'm grateful that we don't have a 'National Day of Mourning' for our
fallen aviators for the same reason. I prefer to think of them now and
then throughout the year ..... it kinda spreads the pain out.
So, yesterday I went flying ...... and I took the memories of my
'missing' friends with me .... to share a little of my joy of flying
...... it was good therapy.
Kudos to you John! I hope to get some face time with you someday ......
I think you'd be a fascinating person to get to know.
Linn
PS .... Y'all be safe out there!
>
> John Cox
> #40600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | door latch sensor location |
There was someone a few months back that mentioned that they moved the
sensor/circuit location on the doors to a different angle to allow the
magnetic pins to trigger the circuit.
If anyone has that e-mail can they forward it to me?
Thank you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm surprised this hasn't been posted to the RV-10 list yet
but................
Steve Raddatz (list contributor) was killed this weekend in a mid-air
collision while flying formation.
I didn't know him personally, but thought I would share for those of you
who did.
Here is a link with the story and some photos.
http://comment-blog.advance.net/cgi-bin/mte/mt-search.cgi?tag=plane%20c
r
ash&blog_id=859
Phil
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
It's someplace else on the Van's airforce site. Just not under RV-10s.
Subject: RV10-List: Steve Raddatz
Date: Tue=2C 26 May 2009 08:16:51 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
I'm surprised this hasn't been posted to the RV-10 list yet but............
....
Steve Raddatz (list contributor) was killed this weekend in a mid-air colli
sion while flying formation.
I didn't know him personally=2C but thought I would share for those of you
who did.
Here is a link with the story and some photos.
http://comment-blog.advance.net/cgi-bin/mte/mt-search.cgi?tag=plane%20cra
sh&blog_id=859
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut
orial_QuickAdd1_052009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
My airbox pretty much follows the plans wrt to the location of retainers and filter.
After drilling holes and test fitting, it's obvious that the control cable
nutplate that holds the adel clamp interferes with the air filter. It would
be smack dab in the middle of the filter.
The cable pulls the VA-192B plate OPEN, right? If so, the nutplate can't be moved
inboard. It would have to be moved out further which would cause it to be close
to the curve of the airbox... and the cable would then rub against the fiberglass.
What have others done? Maybe ditch the nutplate/adel clamp and glass in a tube?
Thank goodness I don't have a carb as the door fab doesn't look fun at all!
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245405#245405
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
FAA data RV8
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 875MH Make/Model: EXP Description: RV-8
Date: 05/23/2009 Time: 1815
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: Y Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: DECATUR State: AL Country: US
DESCRIPTION
N875MH, AN EXPERIMENTAL RV-8 AIRCRAFT COLLIDED MIDAIR WITH ANOTHER
AIRCRAFT, N81817, AN EXPERIMENTAL NANCHANG CJ-6A, THE ONE PERSON ON BOARD
THE RV-8 WAS FATALLY INJURED, THE NANCHANG CJ-6A LANDED WITHOUT INCIDENT,
DECATUR, AL
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 1
# Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: AWOS 1753Z 07006KT 7SM -RA SCT014 21/19 A3003
OTHER DATA
Activity: Unknown Phase: Unknown Operation: OTHER
FAA FSDO: BIRMINGHAM, AL (SO09) Entry date: 05/26/2009
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Steve Raddatz
It's someplace else on the Van's airforce site. Just not under RV-10s.
_____
Subject: RV10-List: Steve Raddatz
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 08:16:51 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
I'm surprised this hasn't been posted to the RV-10 list yet
but................
Steve Raddatz (list contributor) was killed this weekend in a mid-air
collision while flying formation.
I didn't know him personally, but thought I would share for those of you who
did.
Here is a link with the story and some photos.
http://comment-blog.advance.net/cgi-bin/mte/mt-search.cgi?tag=plane%20crash
<http://comment-blog.advance.net/cgi-bin/mte/mt-search.cgi?tag=plane
crash&blog_id=859> &blog_id=859
Phil
_____
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Insert movie times and more without leaving HotmailR. See how.
<http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutor
ial_QuickAdd1_052009>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Just a side note for those who speculate. Under FAST Formation flight
rules, It is not the Lead's job to keep a visual on his WING. His job
is to fly the Briefing, be safe for the entire formation and fly within
the capability of the least experienced wingman and the most
underpowered formation aircraft. It is the Wingman's job not to lose
sight of his Lead. hence the need of the canopy requirement.
Communication is typically done visually through Hand Signals and not
audibly. The reports are that both pilots lost visual with each other.
I have not heard mentioned which was the Wingman.
Reports on the Aero-News Net was that BJ's plane returned to field with
wingtip damage (CJ's are built like Chinese or Russian flying Tanks) and
the RV spar snapped off in-flight after an overlap. Everything else is
tragic speculation.
RIP
John C
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 8:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Steve Raddatz
I'm surprised this hasn't been posted to the RV-10 list yet
but................
Steve Raddatz (list contributor) was killed this weekend in a mid-air
collision while flying formation.
I didn't know him personally, but thought I would share for those of you
who did.
Here is a link with the story and some photos.
http://comment-blog.advance.net/cgi-bin/mte/mt-search.cgi?tag=plane%20c
r
ash&blog_id=859
Phil
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slightly Off Topic: Portable intercom and Flight Training |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
" I would like to know how many women there are who have
RV10 type ratings"
Neil,
Not sure what the story is in NZ but here in the US there is no such thing as an
RV10 type rating. As far as the FAA is concerned, if you have a private license
(or even a student license and an instructor sign off) you can just hop in
and fly it. (There is a "high performance" (e.g., over 200 HP) instructor endorsement
required, but that can be done in a 182, etc.).
The real regulation is done by the insurance companies. And if you can afford to
(or choose the risk of) fly without insurance, then there is almost no regulation.
There have been a few cases of very wealthy, and very inexperienced, pilots
doing bad things to very expensive airplanes.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245414#245414
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi there,
I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000 as we have
it here in Europe per instructions from the installation manual. For some reason
after a power cycle the VFR code is back at 1200.
Did anyone else experience the same issue?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Slightly Off Topic: Portable intercom and Flight Training |
That sounds better than our system. We even need separate
endorsements for different types of GPS, i.e. Garmin 430 / Chelton /
G900 etc!
In that case, can anyone have a guess at how many women regularly fly
PIC in an RV10?
Neil
On 27/05/2009, at 5:23 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> " I would like to know how many women there are who have
> RV10 type ratings"
>
> Neil,
>
> Not sure what the story is in NZ but here in the US there is no such
> thing as an RV10 type rating. As far as the FAA is concerned, if you
> have a private license (or even a student license and an instructor
> sign off) you can just hop in and fly it. (There is a "high
> performance" (e.g., over 200 HP) instructor endorsement required,
> but that can be done in a 182, etc.).
>
> The real regulation is done by the insurance companies. And if you
> can afford to (or choose the risk of) fly without insurance, then
> there is almost no regulation. There have been a few cases of very
> wealthy, and very inexperienced, pilots doing bad things to very
> expensive airplanes.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245414#245414
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steve Raddatz |
I feel like John and I are having a little conversation here, so pardon
my comment .....
John Cox wrote:
>
> Just a side note for those who speculate.
>
Nobody should. If you do, keep it to yourself and wait for some FACTS.
>
> Under FAST Formation flight rules, It is not the Lead's job to keep
> a visual on his WING. His job is to fly the Briefing, be safe for the
> entire formation and fly within the capability of the least
> experienced wingman and the most underpowered formation aircraft. It
> is the Wingman's job not to lose sight of his Lead.
>
I don't have a FAST card, or that level of training, so bear with me.
My understanding is if you lose sight of your 'lead' (may not be the
flight leader) you pitch up and out .... and let the flight know by radio.
>
> hence the need of the canopy requirement.
>
John, please expand on the 'canopy requirement'. Educate me.
>
> Communication is typically done visually through Hand Signals and not
> audibly. The reports are that both pilots lost visual with each
> other. I have not heard mentioned which was the Wingman.
>
And until the CJ pilot makes his report, I doubt if we'll know exactly
what the situation was. Anything less, and we're in the speculation or
'rumor' mode, and that doesn't help anyone.
>
> Reports on the Aero-News Net was that BJ's plane returned to field
> with wingtip damage (CJ's are built like Chinese or Russian flying
> Tanks) and the RV spar snapped off in-flight after an overlap.
> Everything else is tragic speculation.
>
And you already know how John (and I) feel about that. Hopefully we
will get the REAL story in the future, and we can learn from it.
>
>
>
> RIP
>
Yes, indeed.
Linn
>
>
>
> John C
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Hi Michael,
When in the configuration menu, you have to ensure that your cursor is
completely been moved out of the options for changing entries. I think you
probably just need to move the cursor a few more times in that configuration
menu before exiting out of setup and re-starting the Txpdr in normal mode.
I'm not 100% sure this is your issue, but I'm fairly confident it is.
Cheers,
Stein
_________________________________________
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael
>Wellenzohn
>Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 1:19 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330
>
>
>
>
>Hi there,
>I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to
>7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR
>code is back at 1200.
>
>Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>
>Michael
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
The Fuel System section FF4-3 calls out fabrication of a hanger using a "crating
strap". My crates are long gone and I'm assuming that a piece of strap isn't
included in the kit...
Anyone have ideas about what could be used instead? I have a pretty good collection
of odds and ends in my homer bucket that might provide possible candidates.
If all else fails, Home Depot is just down the road.
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245431#245431
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
not seeing the step you're asking about. I have Tim's 12/08/06 version and
there is no reference to a crating strap on page FF4-3
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger
>
> The Fuel System section FF4-3 calls out fabrication of a hanger using a
> "crating strap". My crates are long gone and I'm assuming that a piece of
> strap isn't included in the kit...
>
> Anyone have ideas about what could be used instead? I have a pretty good
> collection of odds and ends in my homer bucket that might provide possible
> candidates. If all else fails, Home Depot is just down the road.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245431#245431
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
FF4-3 Rev 0 is attached...
Jay
pascal(at)rv10builder.net wrote:
> not seeing the step you're asking about. I have Tim's 12/08/06 version and
> there is no reference to a crating strap on page FF4-3
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jayb"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:36 PM
> To:
> Subject: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger
>
>
> >
> >
> > The Fuel System section FF4-3 calls out fabrication of a hanger using a
> > "crating strap". My crates are long gone and I'm assuming that a piece of
> > strap isn't included in the kit...
> >
> > Anyone have ideas about what could be used instead? I have a pretty good
> > collection of odds and ends in my homer bucket that might provide possible
> > candidates. If all else fails, Home Depot is just down the road.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Jay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 45431#245431
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245438#245438
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ff4_3_926.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Maybe call John A. - he just got his RV-9 wing kit!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 3:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap
Hanger
FF4-3 Rev 0 is attached...
Jay
pascal(at)rv10builder.net wrote:
> not seeing the step you're asking about. I have Tim's 12/08/06 version
and
> there is no reference to a crating strap on page FF4-3
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jayb"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:36 PM
> To:
> Subject: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger
>
>
> >
> >
> > The Fuel System section FF4-3 calls out fabrication of a hanger
using a
> > "crating strap". My crates are long gone and I'm assuming that a
piece of
> > strap isn't included in the kit...
> >
> > Anyone have ideas about what could be used instead? I have a pretty
good
> > collection of odds and ends in my homer bucket that might provide
possible
> > candidates. If all else fails, Home Depot is just down the road.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Jay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 45431#245431
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245438#245438
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ff4_3_926.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Stein
I'll try this again but I went through other menus and returned to the VFR ID menu
to check if the 7000 code is still there, and it was. However after the power
cycle the unit came up with 1200 again. I'll keep trying it must be possible.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245440#245440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | 2009 Spring NW RV-10 Builders and Fliers BBQ |
Just an FYI.
For those RV-10 Builders or Flyers living anywhere near the Northwest of the
US who might want to join our twice a year gatherings, please take note that
the 2009 RV-10 builders and flyers social get-together is happening this
Sunday, May 31st, at 1pm, at Lenhardt airpark outside of Hubbard, Oregon. I
know for sure that I do not have all NW RV-10 builders on the distribution
list, so if you have not gotten any of our communications about this event,
please send me an email off list.
For those of you who might suddenly have Sunday free, whether you live
within the US NW or not, and who might want to join us, great! Drop me a
line off list and I'll get you set up with all the information.
For those who might want to attend these gatherings in the future, I
encourage you to send me your contact information as well. We've had folks
come in from many parts of the US and Canada, timing their trip in part to
join us for our dinners. Many folks on our current list have not yet been
able to attend, but want to know when the next one is on the off chance that
they'll be available.
The "fall" meeting is scheduled on August 28th, Independence Airpark, the
night before Van's Homecoming.
My best,
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
Jay;
Looks like all they are trying to do is make an inexpensive bracket to
keep the two hoses from chafing. You could use some aluminum angle and
put two pieces back to back and make the same bracket. Clearance hole
for the bolt in one angle and longer rivets to hold the hole thing
together.
Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Latest Revision of the FF kit |
I sent Jay the Rev 1. Dated 12/08/2006- same as is on Tim's site.
Can someone who just got their FF kit tell me what revision their plans
have?
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger
>
> FF4-3 Rev 0 is attached...
>
> Jay
>
>
> pascal(at)rv10builder.net wrote:
>> not seeing the step you're asking about. I have Tim's 12/08/06 version
>> and
>> there is no reference to a crating strap on page FF4-3
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jayb"
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:36 PM
>> To:
>> Subject: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > The Fuel System section FF4-3 calls out fabrication of a hanger using
>> > a
>> > "crating strap". My crates are long gone and I'm assuming that a piece
>> > of
>> > strap isn't included in the kit...
>> >
>> > Anyone have ideas about what could be used instead? I have a pretty
>> > good
>> > collection of odds and ends in my homer bucket that might provide
>> > possible
>> > candidates. If all else fails, Home Depot is just down the road.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Jay
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 45431#245431
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245438#245438
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ff4_3_926.pdf
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Section FF4-3 ... Crating Strap Hanger |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Someone pointed out to me that there's a newer FF4 revision. It doesn't mention
the goofy bracket. Thanks!
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245455#245455
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | N44YH - First Flight |
A delayed, but hearty congratulations! Just got to be a thrill and then
some.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 4:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N44YH - First Flight
-->
Yesterday we took N44YH on its first flight. All parts landed in the same
formation they departed, so all is good.
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - #40617 - Sheboygan Falls, WI Kyle Hokel Tony Kolar Wayne
Elsner Jason Kreidler
N44YH - FLYING!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245114#245114
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Yikes! Another one! Congratulations and safe skies.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 12:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
-->
This morning N410EG, SN40271 broke the surly bonds of the earth for the
first time.
The RV grin will not wash off the pilots face.
Eric Gohr
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245166#245166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | N2GB - First Flight |
Good grief. It's a contagion!
Congratulations, Gary. Blue skies to you and your Pink Panther.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 5:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N2GB - First Flight
Looks like this weekend is a popular date for first flights. Yesterday 2GB
(AKA the Pink Panther for now) took to the air for the first time.
My wife still has to climb a latter to get to me, I am so high.
What a great plane the -10 is. A real pleasure to land.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245201#245201
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict0038_169.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I started looking at my existing portable systems and concluded that the 50
CU tanks will not fit. I am considering an aluminum tank approximately 30"
long and 4.375" diameter. to secure to the center tunnel and between the
rear seats. Anyone else done this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Slightly Off Topic: Portable intercom and Flight Training
I've been watching this thread and biting my tongue a bit. It seems that
we are mixing 2 issues.
1. Pilot proficiency or lack there of. 2. How hard/easy to fly is the
RV10. I'm probably going to get thumped for what I'm about to say, but I
think that the RV10 is a relatively easy airplane to fly. Now I say that
based on my experience which is different from others. I'm not a hot
stick, and if you witnessed my landing Sat you would quickly agree.
Since the RV10 has a higher HP and a constant speed prop, it does have
some inherent complexity that trainer aircraft do not have. And learning
these skills will decidedly add to the learning curve for a new or lower
time pilot. But transitioning from a trainer to a complex high
performance aircraft doesn't (shouldn't) double the amount of training /
learning. Additionally I think there is something to be said for the
learning advantage that accrues from flying the same aircraft flight
after flight. The biggest variable in the learning to fly equation is
the capability and mindset of the individual. As individuals we all vary
widely and I encourage everyone to be honest and conservative in our
individual self assessments about our abilities and our respect for all
of the unexpected things that can happen in aviation. Commercial
aviation has proven statistically that re currency for even the most
experienced aviator pays high dividends in safety. I just don't want
people to be unnecessarily scared or worried about the RV10. As a point
of reference, I've recently flown a couple of local friends RV7's which
have flight characteristics which are IMO much more sensitive/critical
than the RV10. Yet there are many people that transition successfully
into RV6, 7's and 8's with relatively low time.
I maintain the RV10 is an easy airplane to fly. Flying it or any other
aircraft well, and flying them safely is a matter of pilot capability
and proficiency.
Deems Davis
N519PJ 28 hrs of 'expert' opinion
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
For those who have a G900x panel IO-540 which ground block did you
install?
24/48 tab or 24/24?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 5/26/2009 10:43 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> But transitioning from a trainer to a complex high
> performance aircraft doesn't (shouldn't) double the amount of training /
> learning. Additionally I think there is something to be said for the
> learning advantage that accrues from flying the same aircraft flight
> after flight.
Hi Deems,
I agree with your thoughts. It took me about 10 hours of dual to
transition from a Cessna 150 to a Glasair 1 FT, and at the time I had
about 200 hours in only Cessna aircraft. At 10 hours I certainly didn't
feel like an expert, but I felt that I could fly the plane safely. I
don't have very much time in a -10, but the little I do have felt like
the -10 flies somewhat like a Glasair, only not as quick and sensitive
(ie, the -10 is little easier). The Glasair is closer to a -7.
As long as a pilot gets the proper dual training until they feel safe,
and not put a time limit on it, I think they'd do fine in a -10.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I think you might have added "pilot judgment". Many of the problems that
have occurred within the RV10 community are judgment related. I won't rehash
the details of previous lapse of RV10 judgment but given enough flight time
and experience, the RV10 is a delight to fly. Each time I fly my Glastar I
think I am back in a car without power steering. Judgment is hard to teach.
The crash in AZ last Saturday night was a case in point. The aircraft was
single engine and operating IIRC in marginal conditions at midnight over
mountainous northern AZ. The moon was not visible. The odds of a favorable
outcome if anything goes wrong are small. A superior pilot once said that he
used his superior judgment in order to avoid having to demonstrate his
superior skill. As more 10s fly, take the time to acquire the necessary
skills to fly it "right". If you want an interesting exercise look each day
at the experimental NTSB summary of accidents as OSH approaches. For each
accident look to see whether that is a new flight test phase aircraft or
not. You will find many are or are aircraft of priors years where the pilot
may be trying to get proficient to fly to OSH. Evaluate the risks and fly
safe.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
Slightly Off Topic: Portable intercom and Flight Training
I've been watching this thread and biting my tongue a bit. It seems that we
are mixing 2 issues.
1. Pilot proficiency or lack there of. 2. How hard/easy to fly is the RV10.
I'm probably going to get thumped for what I'm about to say, but I think
that the RV10 is a relatively easy airplane to fly. Now I say that based on
my experience which is different from others. I'm not a hot stick, and if
you witnessed my landing Sat you would quickly agree.
Since the RV10 has a higher HP and a constant speed prop, it does have some
inherent complexity that trainer aircraft do not have. And learning these
skills will decidedly add to the learning curve for a new or lower time
pilot. But transitioning from a trainer to a complex high performance
aircraft doesn't (shouldn't) double the amount of training / learning.
Additionally I think there is something to be said for the learning
advantage that accrues from flying the same aircraft flight after flight.
The biggest variable in the learning to fly equation is the capability and
mindset of the individual. As individuals we all vary widely and I encourage
everyone to be honest and conservative in our individual self assessments
about our abilities and our respect for all of the unexpected things that
can happen in aviation. Commercial aviation has proven statistically that re
currency for even the most experienced aviator pays high dividends in
safety. I just don't want people to be unnecessarily scared or worried about
the RV10. As a point of reference, I've recently flown a couple of local
friends RV7's which have flight characteristics which are IMO much more
sensitive/critical than the RV10. Yet there are many people that transition
successfully into RV6, 7's and 8's with relatively low time.
I maintain the RV10 is an easy airplane to fly. Flying it or any other
aircraft well, and flying them safely is a matter of pilot capability and
proficiency.
Deems Davis
N519PJ 28 hrs of 'expert' opinion
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
David
The tunnel is unavailable to me so I decided to mount my O2 tank just behind
the left back seat. I used brackets from Mountain High (the retaining bands
are not shown) to mount my existing portable tank. I fabbed a cover to
protect the valve and regulator.
In my case, I will have a panel mount actuator and plan to plum the O2
access points in as well. I have a center console which will hold the O2 and
intercom outlets for the front and rear seats.
I am not sure of this is of use to you, but there are a number of options
available. I have recently seen a site where the O2 bottle was suspended
below a hat rack that was installed in the tunnel as well.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in a f/g world
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: May-26-09 8:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Portable oxygen
I started looking at my existing portable systems and concluded that the 50
CU tanks will not fit. I am considering an aluminum tank approximately 30"
long and 4.375" diameter. to secure to the center tunnel and between the
rear seats. Anyone else done this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Here are some photos of my center console. It has an E bottle inside, on
top of the tunnel. All of the parts were mix-and-match from Aerox. The
console attaches with two hinge pins up the sides (what else...?)
The ox system started as their portable kit. The standard valve protrudes
from the front of the console, and the round tube loosely surrounds the
quantity gauge, seen by looking straight down. It works really well, but I
do plan to put a filler port in the console somewhere. Now I have to remove
it for filling, which takes about 15 minutes in/out.
If there was enough interest for 5 or 10 of these, I'd sell them complete
(without upholstry) for about $2500, including the bottle and interior
plumbing.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Steve Raddatz |
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I spent last week with Steve in Alabama, and flew with him Friday. I can tell
you that Steve was an exceptional pilot, craftsman and person. He lived life
with great gusto, and radiated enthusiasm for all he enjoyed. This is a tragic
loss; he will be missed by many. RIP Steve.
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD final assembly
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245516#245516
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Deems:
I think your opinion is spot on. This has been a great thread and deserves
to continue. There are many more folk's thoughts out there that would add a
lot to the conversation. Vic S.?
I had 750 hours in an RV4 and 13,000 in transport/military aircraft and
would not have considered flying the 10 without some dual before the first
flight.
(flew 3 hours with Jerry VanGrunsven). As you say the 10 is not a difficult
airplane at all to fly well, but with all the training resources
available now, why would one not want to become at least familiar with the
type before flying one on the first flight. The first flight in an airplane
you built is not the time to be doing self instructed transition training.
A few hours, at least, in a relaxed training environment will pay huge
benefits
in the early flights in our own new airplane. Throughout commercial
aviation, formal training in a new type is required regardless of previous
experience.
If the 10, like the other RVs, have a fault it is that they fly so well, are
so responsive, they quickly build the self confidence of their pilots,
perhaps too much so.
The sports models all beg to rolled, looped, flown in formation, etc - Total
Performance - right? My guess would be that most 10 pilots value the
productivity of their 4 place efficient cross country SUV. Most 10s are
well equipped for IFR, beg to cover a lot of ground through changing weather
patterns, and often carry one or more family or friends.
I find my mental attitude to be very differnent in this environment than it
was by myself in the 4. Satisfaction now comes from providing a comfortable
travel experience for the passengers while continually refining flight
procedures to get the most out of that expensive instrument panel. With 130
hours I am still learning how to get the most out of myself, the avionics,
and the airplane. The process of trying to continually improve will provide
satisfaction for a long time to come.
We all take pride in deciding to become part of the most successful
experimental aircraft line ever. As the fleet and flight hours set new
records every day we as a group become more and more visable. Our record
and reputation is good but can always be improved. The past few days have
been costly to the family and deserve renewed commitment to safety.
Can a wife or any other women fly the 10? Of course. If they can fly
F-15s, catch the third wire on carrier in an F-18, or qualify for the
Thunderbirds, the 10, after good training, will be a walk in the park.
Dick Sipp
N110DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
I have the same basic idea and am going to use the Aerox 22 cu. ft. E cylin
der. Should supply 4 people for 8 hours at 15=2C000ft. while using the Oxys
aver cannulas. Their mounting brackets for the tank are part number BR-CDE.
Vern Smith #324 (finishing)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: Portable oxygen
Date: Tue=2C 26 May 2009 19:24:26 -0700
I started looking at
my existing portable systems and concluded that the 50 CU tanks will not fi
t. I
am considering an aluminum tank approximately 30" long and 4.375" diameter.
to
secure to the center tunnel and between the rear seats. Anyone else done
this?
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Hi Michael,
be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at the
end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hi there,
> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000 as we have
it here in Europe per instructions from the installation manual. For some reason
after a power cycle the VFR code is back at 1200.
>
> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Sorry Michael,
I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
"Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields on
each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric data
and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR key to
accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC key moves
to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
ground/air operation for the 330.
Werner
Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>
> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at the
> end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>
> Werner
>
> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi there,
>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000
>> as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the installation
>> manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR code is back at
>> 1200.
>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | building_partner(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to express and explain your though
ts and feelings to all of us.- Yes, our family is growing and we all need
to work together to keep our reputation at the highest possible level.-
We have lost 7 individuals in the Sacramento area within my 2.5 years of bu
ild time.... a little concerning to me as a newcomer to aviation.- (only
1 was an RV)--- BUT, each and every one involved experienced pilots,
most of which were making serious, stupid mistakes.- What would have me c
oncerned is individuals being killed and the crash was NOT, at least to som
e extent, pilot error.- Flying into bad weather, overloading the plane at
the same time the density altitude was at it's max, engine out on takeoff,
with fire, and trying to turn back to the airport, fuel pump and boost pum
p malfunctions at the same time, flying into the side of a mountain, and wh
at may have been a heart attack..... with the exception of the last, these
possibly were all avoidable.- The worst being the 10,000 hour pilot over
loading the plane and taking off with a high density altitude, from his hom
e airport, and killing his 2 best friends.- It seems that maybe the most
vulnerable are the pilots that accumulate 150 to 250 hours, and then let th
eir guard down.- Maybe all this is similar to a motorcycle rider.- The
new guy is overly cautious (unless he's under 20), and then once they get a
little experience they push the envelope further and further, until their
on the edge, and something out of the ordinary gets them.- For us that co
uld be weather, equipment failure, another aircraft, or terrain.- ok, tha
t's my 3 cents.
Thanks again guys...... and by the way, congrats to our new RV10 guys compl
eting their first flights!!!!!
Don McDonald
#40636- Done, but sailing on the east coast.
--- On Tue, 5/26/09, richard sipp wrote:
From: richard sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 10:02 PM
Deems:
I think your opinion is spot on.- This has been a great thread and deserv
es to continue.- There are many more folk's thoughts out there that=0A wo
uld add a lot to the conversation. Vic S.?
I had 750 hours in an RV4 and 13,000 in transport/military aircraft and wou
ld not have considered flying the 10 without some dual before the first fli
ght.
(flew 3 hours with Jerry VanGrunsven).- As you say the 10 is not a diffic
ult airplane at all to fly well, but with all the training resources
available now, why would one not want to become at least familiar with the
type before flying one on the first flight.- The first flight in an airpl
ane you built is not the time to be doing self instructed transition traini
ng. A few hours, at least, in a relaxed training environment will pay huge
benefits
in the early flights in our own new airplane.- Throughout commercial avia
tion, formal training in a new type is required regardless of previous expe
rience.
If the 10, like the other RVs, have a fault it is that they fly so well, ar
e so responsive, they quickly build the self=0A confidence of their pilots,
perhaps too much so.
The sports models all beg to rolled, looped, flown in formation, etc - Tota
l Performance - right? My guess would be that most 10 pilots value the prod
uctivity of their 4 place efficient cross country SUV.- Most 10s are well
equipped for IFR, beg to cover a lot of ground through changing weather pa
tterns, and often carry one or more family or friends.
I find my mental attitude to be very differnent in this environment than it
was by myself in the 4.- Satisfaction now comes from providing a comfort
able travel experience for the passengers while continually refining flight
procedures to get the most out of that expensive instrument panel.- With
130 hours I am still learning how to get the most out of myself, the avion
ics, and the airplane.- The process of trying to continually improve will
provide satisfaction for a long time to come.
We all take pride in deciding to=0A become part of the most successful expe
rimental aircraft line ever.- As the fleet and flight hours set new recor
ds every day we as a group become more and more visable.- Our record and
reputation is good but can always be improved.- The past few days have be
en costly to the family and deserve renewed commitment to safety.
Can a wife or any other women fly the 10?- Of course.- If they can fly
F-15s, catch the third wire on carrier in an F-18, or qualify for the Thund
erbirds, the 10, after good training, will be a walk in the park.
Dick Sipp
N110DV
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Don makes some very good observations here, and I'd like to comment
(yeah, I couldn't resist) and put some perspective here.
building_partner(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Thanks to all of you for taking the time to express and explain your
> thoughts and feelings to all of us. Yes, our family is growing and we
> all need to work together to keep our reputation at the highest possible
> level.
This is very important ..... especially when we're an emerging 'class'
and scrutinized by the insurance companies. Less than a professional
approach means we pay, and pay, and pay.
> We have lost 7 individuals in the Sacramento area within my 2.5
> years of build time.... a little concerning to me as a newcomer to
> aviation. (only 1 was an RV) BUT, each and every one involved
> experienced pilots, most of which were making serious, stupid mistakes.
> What would have me concerned is individuals being killed and the crash
> was NOT, at least to some extent, pilot error. Flying into bad weather,
> overloading the plane at the same time the density altitude was at it's
> max, engine out on takeoff, with fire, and trying to turn back to the
> airport, fuel pump and boost pump malfunctions at the same time, flying
> into the side of a mountain, and what may have been a heart attack.....
> with the exception of the last, these possibly were all avoidable.
Very, very seldom is the blame for an accident ever placed on the
airplane. At least until the Lawyers get involved! I've had three
'failures' ..... two that resulted in off-field landings. All three can
be attributed to poor performance by people ..... and not pilot error.
All three were attributable to poor performance by maintenance personnel
.... in my case two were really my fault because I hold the repairmans
certificate for my Pitts, which is now 28 years old.
> The worst being the 10,000 hour pilot overloading the plane and taking off
> with a high density altitude, from his home airport, and killing his 2
> best friends.
The same scenario figured in my second loss of close friends.
> It seems that maybe the most vulnerable are the pilots
> that accumulate 150 to 250 hours, and then let their guard down. Maybe
> all this is similar to a motorcycle rider. The new guy is overly
> cautious (unless he's under 20), and then once they get a little
> experience they push the envelope further and further, until their on
> the edge, and something out of the ordinary gets them.
Well, I have to admit that exuberance and youth played a great part when
I was a baby pilot. My AA-1B (little Grumman trainer)was my first
aerobatic airplane ..... and if I hadn't built the Pitts probably would
have cut my flying time short and become a statistic.
There are a lot of sayings that come to mind ..... 'we don't have time
to make all the mistakes ourselves so learn from others' ...... and the
'old, bold, pilot' to name a couple. I have my own .... 'An old pilot
is one that survives all his (or her) stupid mistakes.' I've surely
made my share. I'm a little (well, a lot)older, a little wiser, and try
hard to mentor others as they follow the path to aviation bliss. I am a
survivor!
> For us that could be weather, equipment failure, another aircraft, or terrain.
ok,
> that's my 3 cents.
Inflation again!!!
> Thanks again guys...... and by the way, congrats to our new RV10 guys
> completing their first flights!!!!!
I'll second that!!! It's been years since I first flew the Pitts, but
the excitement and every second of the flight is indelibly etched in my
mind.
Be safe out there!!!
Linn
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636 Done, but sailing on the east coast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530
owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Sorry Michael,
>
> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields on
> each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric data
> and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR key to
> accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC key moves
> to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>
> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
> ground/air operation for the 330.
>
> Werner
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Hi Michael,
>>
>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at the
>> end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi there,
>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000
>>> as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the installation
>>> manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR code is back at
>>> 1200.
>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>> #511
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
I did not realize it but that also occurs for a G327 hooked to a GRT EFIS.
My backup GRT Sport outputs the encoder serial data to the G327. I just turn
it on in standby and it automatically goes to alt on takeoff. I did not plan
it that way.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330
Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode if you have
it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530 owner too, you
won't need a squat switch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Sorry Michael,
>
> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields
> on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric
> data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR
> key to accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC
> key moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>
> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
> ground/air operation for the 330.
>
> Werner
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Hi Michael,
>>
>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi there,
>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000
>>> as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the installation
>>> manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR code is back at
>>> 1200.
>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> --------
>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>> #511
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
That is true Tim,
did you wire that via ARINC or serial? Does your GTX330 then also
provide vector info?
Werner
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
> if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530
> owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> Sorry Michael,
>>
>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
>> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
>> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
>> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields
>> on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric
>> data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR
>> key to accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC
>> key moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>
>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Michael,
>>>
>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to
>>>> 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR
>>>> code is back at 1200.
>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>> #511
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
David,
I'm not sure that is because of the GRT, the GTX 330 has standardwise a
function, when in climb
exceeding 500ft/min to switch to ALT. That is configurable.
br Werner
David McNeill wrote:
>
> I did not realize it but that also occurs for a G327 hooked to a GRT EFIS.
> My backup GRT Sport outputs the encoder serial data to the G327. I just turn
> it on in standby and it automatically goes to alt on takeoff. I did not plan
> it that way.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 6:44 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330
>
>
> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode if you have
> it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530 owner too, you
> won't need a squat switch.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry Michael,
>>
>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
>> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
>> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
>> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields
>> on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric
>> data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR
>> key to accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC
>> key moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>
>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Michael,
>>>
>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to 7000
>>>> as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the installation
>>>> manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR code is back at
>>>> 1200.
>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>> #511
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 05/27/2009 09:17 AM, linn wrote:
> My AA-1B (little Grumman trainer)was my first aerobatic airplane .....
> and if I hadn't built the Pitts probably would have cut my flying time
> short and become a statistic.
Hi Linn,
Given that I'm going to look at a 1969 AA-1A this weekend, I'm
curious. Can you elaborate on that a bit?
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I have about 4500 hours and in the last five years it has all been
Citation single pilot time. I hopped in Scott Schmidt's great RV-10 and
was suprised how behind I was in the airplane. I will be taking my time
transitioning into the slower airplane. It is funny how I thought it
would have been easier for me to fly the slower airplane. The flying
part wasn't hard, it was the systems and the scan that was the most
difficult, which makes the flying harder. I can see how you can get
behind the "flying part" by trying to figure the systems out. Hopefully
I will get more transition time by the time my RV-10 is done.(hint hint
Scott).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
My GNS480 is wired to the GTX330 via Serial. I'm not sure what
you mean about vector info though. For traffic I do get the
vector info.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> That is true Tim,
>
> did you wire that via ARINC or serial? Does your GTX330 then also
> provide vector info?
>
> Werner
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
>> if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530
>> owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>>
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> Sorry Michael,
>>>
>>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
>>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
>>> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
>>> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
>>> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields
>>> on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric
>>> data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR
>>> key to accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC
>>> key moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>>
>>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Michael,
>>>>
>>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>>>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>>
>>>> Werner
>>>>
>>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to
>>>>> 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR
>>>>> code is back at 1200.
>>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>>
>>>>> Michael
>>>>>
>>>>> --------
>>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>>> #511
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
I did not configure but found that the serial encoding data from the Sport
EFIS turned on the transponder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330
David,
I'm not sure that is because of the GRT, the GTX 330 has standardwise a
function, when in climb exceeding 500ft/min to switch to ALT. That is
configurable.
br Werner
David McNeill wrote:
>
> I did not realize it but that also occurs for a G327 hooked to a GRT EFIS.
> My backup GRT Sport outputs the encoder serial data to the G327. I
> just turn it on in standby and it automatically goes to alt on
> takeoff. I did not plan it that way.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 6:44 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin
> GTX 330
>
>
> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode if you
> have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530 owner
> too, you won't need a squat switch.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry Michael,
>>
>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access to
>> the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through the
>> configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the pages,
>> stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights selectable fields
>> on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric
>> data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list selections. Press the CRSR
>> key to accept changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC
>> key moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>
>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Michael,
>>>
>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to
>>>> 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR
>>>> code is back at 1200.
>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>> #511
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
The TR2 was known as the widow maker in the flight instruction world. Talk
to Andy Elliott ; he owned one for years. I will provide contact info
offlist if desired.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
On 05/27/2009 09:17 AM, linn wrote:
> My AA-1B (little Grumman trainer)was my first aerobatic airplane .....
> and if I hadn't built the Pitts probably would have cut my flying time
> short and become a statistic.
Hi Linn,
Given that I'm going to look at a 1969 AA-1A this weekend, I'm curious.
Can you elaborate on that a bit?
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 05/27/2009 12:59 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> The TR2 was known as the widow maker in the flight instruction world.
Would that be the same as having a student learn in an RV-10, or are
there inherent problems with the design of the Grumman Yankee AA-1? I
had not heard of this phrase being used in conjunction with the Yankee
until now.
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Do not discount how helpful it is to just sit in your AC and work with the
avionics/EFIS's. Many hours in this type of (hanger flying) helps with the
scan and knobology. Close your eyes and reach for what you want and
practice until you can do it successfully. Garmin has a wonderful simulator
for their 900X that helps with the procedures. Do others have this
simulator too? It is time well spent.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
I have about 4500 hours and in the last five years it has all been Citation
single pilot time. I hopped in Scott Schmidt's great RV-10 and was suprised
how behind I was in the airplane. I will be taking my time transitioning
into the slower airplane. It is funny how I thought it would have been
easier for me to fly the slower airplane. The flying part wasn't hard, it
was the systems and the scan that was the most difficult, which makes the
flying harder. I can see how you can get behind the "flying part" by trying
to figure the systems out. Hopefully I will get more transition time by the
time my RV-10 is done.(hint hint Scott).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
The reputation is that it has a nasty spin that is not recoverable. I had a
AA5 and loved it but was always wary of getting to slow.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
On 05/27/2009 12:59 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> The TR2 was known as the widow maker in the flight instruction world.
Would that be the same as having a student learn in an RV-10, or are
there inherent problems with the design of the Grumman Yankee AA-1? I
had not heard of this phrase being used in conjunction with the Yankee
until now.
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 05/27/2009 03:21 PM, gary wrote:
>
> The reputation is that it has a nasty spin that is not recoverable. I had a
> AA5 and loved it but was always wary of getting to slow.
>
Interesting! I had someone else tell me that about Piper Tomahawks,
but said the Yankee was fine. The cautions about the Yankee have been
about not overloading it, and trying to take off on a hot day with
obstacles at a short runway. It tends to like the runway more than the
other airplanes of its class from the same time frame, but it is also 10
knots faster in cruise.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Perhaps Andy will reply to the list. IIRC the problem was high approach and
landing speeds and high sink rates when speeds got slower than 90 mph. My
only experience with Grumman has been AA-5. Both have castoring hose wheels
like the RVs. The AA-5 with 150HP and cruise prop was not a good climber.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability'
On 05/27/2009 12:59 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> The TR2 was known as the widow maker in the flight instruction world.
Would that be the same as having a student learn in an RV-10, or are
there inherent problems with the design of the Grumman Yankee AA-1? I had
not heard of this phrase being used in conjunction with the Yankee until
now.
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I talked with the Grumman guru and found the following. The worst of the lot
was an AA-1 with an O235 engine. The wing was very fast and stalled about
60kts; not the characteristics desired in a trainer. Grumman modified the
wing airfoil and came with the AA-1A, AA-1B, and AA-1C. the later models had
the modified wing that reduced the stall and many of those have now been
STCed to a O320 150 HP engine. Grumman made an four place AA-5 airframe, if
it has the 150 HP engine it is really a two place aircraft ( Traveler) and
pretty anemic. If it has the O360 180HP engine it has respectable
performance and is called the Tiger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
A few more thoughts.
First I don't think gender has anything to
do with flying the -10. There are no physical requirements that
would make men any better or worse than women at flying this
airplane. I have found that I fly the airplane with my
fingertips. No need to grip the stick and yank it around. I
have flown with pilots who could not keep it level and I noticed they were
gripping the stick. Just not needed.
It's an
airplane with lots of power but no surprises. Stalls are announced
with plenty of feedback. Both of which make it a good honest
airplane. That doesn't mean it should not be respected.
What I have learned is the -10 reacts big time to ground affect. For
that reason take-offs result is a departure from the runway followed by a
short transition of acceleration in ground affect before climbing.
Landings when done at the correct airspeed result in some pretty sweet
touchdowns. It's not a Cessna (thank YOU!) and it should not be
flown like one.
I consider myself a low time pilot and did seek
transition training. I had never flown an RV at all prior to my
transition training. Nor had I flown behind a constant speed
prop. But I did get to the point where I am enjoying the
flying. I don't actually recall any bad experiences in my short 40
hours.
I currently have 212 total time, 40 hours
in type and 72 landings in type. While I still consider myself a low
time pilot, I consider the -10 to be the best airplane I have ever
flown. I do tend to make my patterns larger because of the
speed. But nothing compares to the ride.
Like riding a
motorcyle, treat it with respect, live long and prosper!
Thanks, Jim Combs
40192 (N312F) - Flying
Do Not
Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thank you for all your input. I tried it out and it still didn't work. All other
fields work and stay after the power cycle. I have software version 6.0 installed.
Is there probably a setting that always resets the VFR id to factory default
that needs to be disabled?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245625#245625
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned
index
holes in my left door halves. Based on Van=92s recommendation, I
=93created=94 the
front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile was
sitting
about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday, I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of
the
window index holes matched, the rear index holes were mismatched and of
course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had
already done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do
otherwise. To a certain extent, I was very, very lucky as the alignment
between the door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the
door
halves are not aligned against the canopy correctly, you can end up
trimming
too much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door
(especially if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the
bottom up and avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with =93gaps=94 in the seams on the first door. In
retrospect I think Van=92s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy
layer on
the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better
result.
Anyway, these are comments from a f/g neophyte ' YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Look ma, its snowing fiberglass
_____
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to
about
1/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I
found the
forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse
skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches
compared
to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with
it? I
spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for
him. I
guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 5/27/2009 3:21 PM, gary wrote:
>
> The reputation is that it has a nasty spin that is not recoverable. I had a
> AA5 and loved it but was always wary of getting to slow.
Don't know if anyone on this list cares, but thought I'd follow up with
input I got from the Grumman list:
"The AA-1 will recover, if you apply standard spin
recover technique immediately. It only becomes dangerous after 2-3
turns. This really shouldn't be an issue, as the plane doesn't really
have any bad stall characteristics and will only spin if pushed,
however, spins are prohibited. "
"The NASA tests involved a modified Yankee forced into very
aggravated spins of more than three turns. And yes, they had to use the
spin chute (a drag chute on the tail, not anything like the BRS on the
Cirrus) to recover from a lot of those spins. However, a stock Yankee
passed all the normal and utility category spin tests for an aircraft
with a "No Intentional Spins" limitations. In those spins, the aircraft
was only put into an incipient spin -- three seconds or one full turn,
whichever was longer. If you start into a spin, and use the book
recovery procedure, it will recover promptly. But you did get the right
idea -- don't let it spin. When doing stalls/slow flight, keep the ball
centered and the nose from yawing."
More than one mentioned that with my Glasair time, the AA-1 should be
an easy transition. In the spirit of the actual topic of this thread,
yes, if I buy it I will be going up with an experienced Grumman CFI
until I feel comfortable... :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Grumman 2 place |
Hi!
We own a=C2- low-time 79 Tiger and love it!
Brian and Ruth Preston
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 2:10:50 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Grumman 2 place
I talked with the Grumman guru and found the following. The worst of the lo
t was an AA-1 with an O235 engine. The wing was very fast and stalled about
60kts; not the characteristics desired in a trainer. Grumman modified the
wing airfoil and came with the AA-1A, AA-1B, and AA-1C. the later models ha
d the modified wing that reduced the stall and many of those have now been
STCed to a O320 150 HP engine.=C2- Grumman made an four place AA-5 airfra
me, if it has the 150 HP engine it is really a two place aircraft ( Travele
r) and pretty anemic. If it has the O360 180HP engine it has respectable pe
======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
Can you post the *exact* button sequence you're pushing? I still suspect you're
forgetting to move the cursor away from the field before moving away from that
setting..
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245641#245641
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Les,
I too ended up with some gaps in the seams of my first door, especially
around the window openings. I ended up squeezing more epoxy into the
gaps
as much as practical. The doors are still very solidly glued together
but I
was worried about moisture getting into the gaps over time. The thing
that
got me the most was that the amount of lip left before trimming the
window
opening is somewhat misleading. You don=92t realize how far in you end
up
trimming the window opening. It does seem like you cut out darn near
all
the glued surface. The second one I used about 30% more of the epoxy
layer
when gluing the halves together and spread it out wider on the contact
surfaces. That one came out much better.
I ended up inadvertently cutting off one of the alignment tabs (the
front
one I think) on one of my doors. I got a little wild with the cutoff
tool
when doing the initial trimming. It worked out OK cause I only did it
to
one of the halves. I don=92t think that any of my window holes actually
lined
up... maybe one.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 ' metal glaze is great!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup
observation)
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned
index
holes in my left door halves. Based on Van=92s recommendation, I
=93created=94 the
front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile was
sitting
about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday, I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of
the
window index holes matched, the rear index holes were mismatched and of
course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had
already done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do
otherwise. To a certain extent, I was very, very lucky as the alignment
between the door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the
door
halves are not aligned against the canopy correctly, you can end up
trimming
too much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door
(especially if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the
bottom up and avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with =93gaps=94 in the seams on the first door. In
retrospect I think Van=92s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy
layer on
the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better
result.
Anyway, these are comments from a f/g neophyte ' YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Look ma, its snowing fiberglass
_____
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to
about
1/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I
found the
forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse
skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches
compared
to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with
it? I
spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for
him. I
guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature
database 4109 (20090527) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Ben
A small 10cc hypodermic works well to push thickened epoxy into gaps. I
went
to the local pharmacy and bought a few along with a few #20 bore needles
(I
haven=92t tried them yet). The pharmacist didn=92t bat an eye when I
explained
what I wanted them for.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: May-27-09 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup
observation)
Les,
I too ended up with some gaps in the seams of my first door, especially
around the window openings. I ended up squeezing more epoxy into the
gaps
as much as practical. The doors are still very solidly glued together
but I
was worried about moisture getting into the gaps over time. The thing
that
got me the most was that the amount of lip left before trimming the
window
opening is somewhat misleading. You don=92t realize how far in you end
up
trimming the window opening. It does seem like you cut out darn near
all
the glued surface. The second one I used about 30% more of the epoxy
layer
when gluing the halves together and spread it out wider on the contact
surfaces. That one came out much better.
I ended up inadvertently cutting off one of the alignment tabs (the
front
one I think) on one of my doors. I got a little wild with the cutoff
tool
when doing the initial trimming. It worked out OK cause I only did it
to
one of the halves. I don=92t think that any of my window holes actually
lined
up... maybe one.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 ' metal glaze is great!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup
observation)
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned
index
holes in my left door halves. Based on Van=92s recommendation, I
=93created=94 the
front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile was
sitting
about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday, I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of
the
window index holes matched, the rear index holes were mismatched and of
course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had
already done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do
otherwise. To a certain extent, I was very, very lucky as the alignment
between the door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the
door
halves are not aligned against the canopy correctly, you can end up
trimming
too much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door
(especially if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the
bottom up and avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with =93gaps=94 in the seams on the first door. In
retrospect I think Van=92s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy
layer on
the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better
result.
Anyway, these are comments from a f/g neophyte ' YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Look ma, its snowing fiberglass
_____
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to
about
1/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then, as per the plans, I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well, the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I
found the
forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fuse
skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches
compared
to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with
it? I
spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for
him. I
guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin cover
is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at times I
have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area, and in other
places I get to create my own line.
Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the door
openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim at least
part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get a countersink
in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed in this area by
following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now. Anyone have a
recommendation?
Thanks...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Hi
This thread and the various perspectives are interesting to say the least.
I'd like to add a twist related to first flights especially given all the
newly minted -10s that have been taking off of late.
When the time comes to take my -10 up, I will be current in my PA28 and will
also have taken transition training. That being said, the first flight
really seems to me to be a flight into the unknown. Sure everything will
have been quadruple checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
that point experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
hours in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood) or
a serious emergency.
That being said, my plan was to get a pilot experienced in initial flights
to do the first test flight. What happens if something goes seriously wrong
on the initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial flight?
Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test* pilots for the first
time. Just food for thought.....
Cheers
Les
#40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
Rob
I had exactly the same concern; in fact I called Van=92s about the size
of the
gap between the door and the lower door flange on the canopy.
Initially, when drilling the screw holes, I cut notches in the canopy
cover
to allow access with a drill. I clecoed the holes from the back site and
haven=92t final drilled / countersunk the holes yet. The cleco tips
don=92t
interfere with the doors so this is not an issue. The attached pix is
not
great, but you can see where I cut notches for the clecoes. Later I
inserted
the clecoes from under the door sill.
Prior to fitting the doors, I cut to about =BC=94 of the scribe lines. I
was
concerned about the apparent gap between the door and canopy when I was
setting up the doors for gluing. What I found was that this gap all but
disappeared (except for the lower flange) when the doors were cut to fit
flush with the fuse / canopy door opening. I ended up cutting back to
and in
some places past the scribe lines. I was really surprised at how much
the
gap decreased. The place to be careful is the lower door flange. If you
trim
this to the scribe line, you may find the gap to be much larger than you
desire (depending on what you are using for weather seal.
Understanding your concern, I would cut the canopy back so the inner
door
half sits easily in the door opening without making contact with the
canopy
flange. After gluing the door, be prepared to trim back further as
required
when fitting the door to flit flush in the opening. It is more work but
less
stress.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' A friend of drunk monkeys
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: May-27-09 10:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
cover
is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at times
I
have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area, and in
other
places I get to create my own line.
Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
door
openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim at
least
part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get a
countersink
in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed in this area
by
following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now. Anyone have a
recommendation?
Thanks...
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Hi Tim,
does your GTX330, due to the serial GPS Info, output your flight path
vector in order to provide TCAS user with vector information? (some kind
of enhanced surveillance mode)
Werner
Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> My GNS480 is wired to the GTX330 via Serial. I'm not sure what
> you mean about vector info though. For traffic I do get the
> vector info.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>
>> That is true Tim,
>>
>> did you wire that via ARINC or serial? Does your GTX330 then also
>> provide vector info?
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
>>> if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a 430/480/530
>>> owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Sorry Michael,
>>>>
>>>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the manual:
>>>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides access
>>>> to the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences forwrad through
>>>> the configuration pages. The START/STOP key reverses through the
>>>> pages, stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR key highlights
>>>> selectable fields on each page. When a field is highlighted the 0-9
>>>> keys enter numeric data and the 8 or 9 keys move through list
>>>> selections. Press the CRSR key to accept changes. When a field is
>>>> highlighted, pressing the FUNC key moves to the next configuration
>>>> page without saving the changes."
>>>>
>>>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>>>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>>>
>>>> Werner
>>>>
>>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Michael,
>>>>>
>>>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code at
>>>>> the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>>>
>>>>> Werner
>>>>>
>>>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default) to
>>>>>> 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the VFR
>>>>>> code is back at 1200.
>>>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Michael
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --------
>>>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>>>> #511
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Hi Michael,
as my plane is currently in the driveway I just checked, I have SW
Version 4.01 my manual also refers to this.
I've just tested it as following and it works:
FUNC ON (I'm in Diagnostic mode)
12x FUNC (I'm on Operation config page with VS rate / Format / VRF ID
/ALT Alert Dev)
3x CRSR (the VFR ID Field is highlighted)
7 0 0 0 (Field has changed to 7000 Cursor is on 1st digit of ALT Alert Dev)
OFF (switching it off and saving)
Stein, any idea what Version 6 of the SW has different then 4.x (that is
two major releases) and how to get an update?
br
Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Thank you for all your input. I tried it out and it still didn't work. All other
fields work and stay after the power cycle. I have software version 6.0 installed.
Is there probably a setting that always resets the VFR id to factory
default that needs to be disabled?
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245625#245625
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> This thread and the various perspectives are interesting to say the least.
> I'd like to add a twist related to first flights especially given all the
> newly minted -10s that have been taking off of late.
>
> When the time comes to take my -10 up, I will be current in my PA28 and will
> also have taken transition training. That being said, the first flight
> really seems to me to be a flight into the unknown.
It absolutely is!!!!
Sure everything will
> have been quadruple checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
> that point experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
> hours in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood) or
> a serious emergency.
Now, I sure wish I could say that!>
> That being said, my plan was to get a pilot experienced in initial flights
> to do the first test flight. What happens if something goes seriously wrong
> on the initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
> hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial flight?
Locally, there have been two crashes of Kitfox on the first flight. One
with two fatalities .... an instructor went along with the builder/pilot
.... and they tried to return to the airport after engine failuer on
climbout. The second ended in injuries and totaled the airplane. So,
yes, S**t does happen.
>
> Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test* pilots for the first
> time. Just food for thought.....
And those are good thoughts!
I'm no 'hot stick', but the first flight in my Pitts was my first ever
in one. I flew anything with a tailwheel that I could wrangle prior to
that flight, but had the luxury of being current in my Grumman .....
which may or may not have any bearing on the successful completion of
that first flight. Took me 13 years to hurt it.
The first flight is special ..... after all, you built it ..... but if
you're the least bit uncomfortable or wary ..... get someone qualified
to do the deed. As I go down the building path, there will be more -10s
flying, and I hope to get some stick time, just to get the feel of it.
It's a great excuse to fly, and it'll surely help my confidence level.
Linn
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I omitted the 'read the whole section' step when I trimmed my first door
and ended up with little contact area to work with ....... trimmed to
the 'almost finished' line. So I have clecos everywhere that go into
the 'air space' between door inner shell and cabin top. At the bottom
of the door, I'll have to use strips to press the bottom glue line
together. But I think that having the clecos will actually help in the
gluing process.
But my alignment holes came out OK, so there's something going on that I
don't understand.
Linn
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
> cover is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at
> times I have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area,
> and in other places I get to create my own line.
>
> Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
> door openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim
> at least part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get
> a countersink in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed
> in this area by following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now.
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I also suck
at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was exciting
and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
Flights of memory in my life.... in order
1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a hay
field)
2. First flight in my RV-10
3. PPL check ride (note not my first flight after......)
4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with chapter 23
and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with the B-17
flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last year
Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and hope to
get in 5 or 6 this year.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Werner,
No, the standard 330 just does the normal transponder type functions
but has the datalink capability to listen and send TIS info to a
Display. I am not an expert but I don't think it transmits vector
info. BUT, if you buy the 1090-ES upgrade then yes indeed the system
MUST be tied into a very accurate GPS and then that fits into the ADS-
B system and does transmit out TCAS type info for others with 1090-ES
receivers to display. It's only with that upgrade though. The ADS-B
UATs do the same sort of thing but at 978mhz. In the US in a few
years one of the two will be a requirement.
Tim
On May 28, 2009, at 12:47 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> does your GTX330, due to the serial GPS Info, output your flight
> path vector in order to provide TCAS user with vector information?
> (some kind of enhanced surveillance mode)
>
> Werner
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> My GNS480 is wired to the GTX330 via Serial. I'm not sure what
>> you mean about vector info though. For traffic I do get the
>> vector info.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>>
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> That is true Tim,
>>>
>>> did you wire that via ARINC or serial? Does your GTX330 then also
>>> provide vector info?
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
>>>> if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a
>>>> 430/480/530
>>>> owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sorry Michael,
>>>>>
>>>>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the
>>>>> manual:
>>>>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides
>>>>> access to the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences
>>>>> forwrad through the configuration pages. The START/STOP key
>>>>> reverses through the pages, stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR
>>>>> key highlights selectable fields on each page. When a field is
>>>>> highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric data and the 8 or 9 keys
>>>>> move through list selections. Press the CRSR key to accept
>>>>> changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC key
>>>>> moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>>>>
>>>>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>>>>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>>>>
>>>>> Werner
>>>>>
>>>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>>> >
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Michael,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code
>>>>>> at the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Werner
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default)
>>>>>>> to 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the
>>>>>>> VFR code is back at 1200.
>>>>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Michael
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --------
>>>>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>>>>> #511
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
Linn
I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door, but
if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
On my first door I had a gap on the bottom door seam. I found that the epoxy
coverage wasn't what it should be and much of the door seam opened up. To
fix, I pumped *lots* and *lots* of thickened epoxy into the seam and then
clamped with 20 or so cleco clamps. I folded packing tape over the seam
first so the clamps didn't get epoxied to the door. The result was quite
good.
I found a 10cc syringe (of the type used to dispense meds to kids) was able
to suck up and dispense thickened epoxy.
If you have trimmed too much off the door bottom to cleco it into door
opening per the plans, you may find the above approach helpful. Just leave
the bottom seam unglued do it after the sides and top have been glued.
As far as alignment holes were concerned, that was my problem - they didn't
align nor did the placement (in case of the front tab) match the plans. For
such position sensitive parts, I am very disappointed with the Van's QC.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - living in a f/g world
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn
Sent: May-28-09 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
I omitted the 'read the whole section' step when I trimmed my first door
and ended up with little contact area to work with ....... trimmed to
the 'almost finished' line. So I have clecos everywhere that go into
the 'air space' between door inner shell and cabin top. At the bottom
of the door, I'll have to use strips to press the bottom glue line
together. But I think that having the clecos will actually help in the
gluing process.
But my alignment holes came out OK, so there's something going on that I
don't understand.
Linn
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
> cover is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at
> times I have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area,
> and in other places I get to create my own line.
>
> Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
> door openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim
> at least part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get
> a countersink in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed
> in this area by following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now.
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Les,I had transition training with Alex in Dallas.
I also had the training with Alex. I would say a must for any new -10 builder.
I now have over 10 hours in my -10. I have dual AFS in my plane and I set the
right seat EFIS full screen engine and my screen the stock Airspeed, Altimeter
with the engine across the bottom.
I just wanted to know what my airspeed and altitude was and to be able to monitor
the engine and not be confused with all the extra info. I am now adding all
the other info to the screen as I am becoming more comfortable with everything.
I just feel safer knowing that I will be able to stay with or ahead of all
the information in front of me, inside and out :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245710#245710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
a good job flying with one of the transition training
folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
> After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
> George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
>
> I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I also suck
> at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was exciting
> and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
>
> Flights of memory in my life.... in order
>
> 1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a hay
> field)
> 2. First flight in my RV-10
> 3. PPL check ride (note not my first flight after......)
> 4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
>
> Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
> flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
> signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with chapter 23
> and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with the B-17
> flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last year
> Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and hope to
> get in 5 or 6 this year.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Monoject 412 curved tip syringe=2C google and buy them from a dental supply
house. At a hooby store they are about a buck a piece. A person can get 50
for about $19.00.
From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observati
on)
Date: Wed=2C 27 May 2009 21:40:11 -0600
Ben
A small 10cc hypodermic works well to push thickened epoxy into gaps. I wen
t to the local pharmacy and bought a few along with a few #20 bore needles
(I haven=92t tried them yet). The pharmacist didn=92t bat an eye when I exp
lained what I wanted them for.
Cheers
Les
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: May-27-09 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observati
on)
Les=2C
I too ended up with some gaps in the seams of my first door=2C especially a
round the window openings. I ended up squeezing more epoxy into the gaps a
s much as practical. The doors are still very solidly glued together but I
was worried about moisture getting into the gaps over time. The thing tha
t got me the most was that the amount of lip left before trimming the windo
w opening is somewhat misleading. You don=92t realize how far in you end u
p trimming the window opening. It does seem like you cut out darn near all
the glued surface. The second one I used about 30% more of the epoxy laye
r when gluing the halves together and spread it out wider on the contact su
rfaces. That one came out much better.
I ended up inadvertently cutting off one of the alignment tabs (the front o
ne I think) on one of my doors. I got a little wild with the cutoff tool w
hen doing the initial trimming. It worked out OK cause I only did it to on
e of the halves. I don=92t think that any of my window holes actually line
d up... maybe one.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 ' metal glaze is great!
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday=2C May 27=2C 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observation)
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned index
holes in my left door halves. Based on Van=92s recommendation=2C I =93creat
ed=94 the front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile
was sitting about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday=2C I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of t
he window index holes matched=2C the rear index holes were mismatched and o
f course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had alr
eady done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do otherwise.
To a certain extent=2C I was very=2C very lucky as the alignment between t
he door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the door halves a
re not aligned against the canopy correctly=2C you can end up trimming too
much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door (especially
if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the bottom up and
avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with =93gaps=94 in the seams on the first door. In ret
rospect I think Van=92s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy layer on
the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better resu
lt.
Anyway=2C these are comments from a f/g neophyte ' YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Look ma=2C its snowing fiberglass
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to about 1
/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then=2C as per the plans=2C I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well=2C the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I found
the forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fus
e skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches compar
ed to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with it?
I spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for him
. I guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
t http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Portable oxygen |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I had the same idea as Les. All stuff from Mountain High, the bottle is behind
the left rear seat. Tubing is run to the tunnel console for the front seats
and to the rear seat side panels for the rear passengers. Bulkhead fittings are
used for service connections and to tie in the bottle. This way the bottle
can be removed easily for filling or use in the RV-6.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245728#245728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Another option that works good - if you have a local farm supply - they carry a
good variety of needles and syringes - some quite large. Appear less expensive
then the pharmacy. I used the large syringe with no needle fro things like
proseal and weld-on. Just drill hole larger if needed. $5.00 got me all I needed
for the project and then some..
Byron
N253RV Assigned
DNA
---- John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Monoject 412 curved tip syringe, google and buy them from a dental supply house.
At a hooby store they are about a buck a piece. A person can get 50 for about
$19.00.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
I second or third the value of the training with Alex. I felt very comfortable
with the RV-10 in after the training.
Alex's 10 has the Trutrak efis as the primary display, so the transition training
added to the comfort level with the AFS glass system.
I spent 10-15 hours with the AFS system powered up in the plane during building
and installation. I used a PC power supply as the power source allowing to unlimited
run times. This let me set up all the alarms and limits, test all the
connections. Tip the efis to simulate flight prior to taking the plane to the
airport. I highly recommend getting familiar with all displays on the ground.
As for the first flight, stick with the proven flight plans from vans and the FAA,
pick the right airport, check everything 4 times.
As for today I have 5 hours on my RV-10 with only a couple if minor squawks.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245731#245731
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic: Name that Plane |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I was
excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this time.
:)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | glueing the doors |
I'm currently working on the doors, and have a suggestion for others to
consider,i.e., don't be in a hurry to glue them together. I am modifying
the doors with molded armrests/handles as well as Hendricks latches and
a hardpoint for a pull down strap in the forward part of the door, that
is strong enough to use as
a hold-onto strap for taxing with the door partially open, for airflow
(poor mans AC).
There is a CONSIDERABLE amount of modifications to the inner door
panels, to accomplish these changes, especially the latches. I can trim
the openings in the cabin top, and cut the doors as needed to
accommodate all the mods, with the doors clecoed and clamped together
while making measurements, and then take the halves apart to make all
the cuts and glass on the parts as needed. I can't imagine trying to do
all that with the doors glued together.
Chris Hukill
turning parts into HAZMAT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of
the very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will
be, and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the
gluing went well, but it was really messy!!!
Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot
easier since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
Linn
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door, but
> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
SNIP!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Tim, I agree ..... My Pitts is 28 years old ...... and it's never gone
flying with me on the ground!!!
When I took my first flight, I'm not sure if I was really prepared, or
just in denial, but my Pitts landings turned out to be a non-event.
Fast forward 13 years later .... and I did an outside 1/2 loop on a
landing at Sun-n-fun. Formal training probably would have prevented
that because (as Curtis Pitts told me)I didn't know how to properly land
it!! It was an embarrassing and expensive education, but I'm still here
to relate.
For me, that first flight probably ranks up there with my wedding day,
kids and grandkids being born ...... put your big moments here.
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
> not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
> but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
> thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
> you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
> training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
> or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
> a good job flying with one of the transition training
> folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
> as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
> job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
> your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
> preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
> inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
> problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
> of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
> in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Agold <t_agold(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Interior paint under upholstery? |
I'm nearing the point of being done with the interior aluminum and will be transisioning
to the fiberglass. I know a lot of people have painted their interior
at this point. My question is, do you really need to? I've primed all my interior
parts gray and plan on a grey interior from Flightline. I know that the
interior covers most of the interior structure and there is some minor painting
to be done. Is there any benefit to painting the whole thing vesus just the
portions that won't be covered? I'm thinking that I could save some weight (hey,
it adds up ) by just painting a few areas after I get the cabin top secured
and doors done. Any thoughts or experiences out there?
Thanks!
__________________
Todd
RV-10 #362
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Interior paint under upholstery? |
Todd,
It appears that we are probably at similar points in the build. My opinion
would be to paint the interior now. I don't know what primer you used, but
I would guess that it probably requires a top coat. The top coat over the
primer will be a more effective sealer than just the primer. I used AKZO on
most of the parts. AKZO doesn't require a top coat, since it's a two part
epoxy, however, it needs to be covered with a more pleasant color. I'm
probably going to go with gray as well. I have some of the interior parts
primed with NAPA 7720, which does require a top coat.
As far as sequence of painting, I'm still contemplating the best approach.
I'm thinking that paint the aluminum before canopy attach and rudder
installation, but only those pieces that are visible. That way I don't have
to work about masking too many items. I suspect the canopy can be painted
before mounting to make life easier, although the whole canopy doesn't have
to be painted if you have a headliner. I imagine that painting with the
canopy on would create some real interesting overspray issues.
I would be interested in hearing from others as to what worked and didn't
work for them.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd Agold
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior paint under upholstery?
I'm nearing the point of being done with the interior aluminum and will be
transisioning to the fiberglass. I know a lot of people have painted their
interior at this point. My question is, do you really need to? I've primed
all my interior parts gray and plan on a grey interior from Flightline. I
know that the interior covers most of the interior structure and there is
some minor painting to be done. Is there any benefit to painting the whole
thing vesus just the portions that won't be covered? I'm thinking that I
could save some weight (hey, it adds up
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/images/smilies/wink.gif> ) by just
painting a few areas after I get the cabin top secured and doors done. Any
thoughts or experiences out there?
Thanks!
__________________
Todd
RV-10 #362
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The newer Pipers have the cowls with the round air inlets.
Not sure, but I think it's a fixed gear Saratoga.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245763#245763
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane |
RV-15;)
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I
was excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this
time. :)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Name that Plane |
This is a newer Cherokee 6
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
RV-15;)
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, <mailto:Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> Phil
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I was
excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this time.
:)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota
with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
<http://images.google.com/url?source=imgres&ct=tbn&q=http://www.kin
gschools.
com/otherimages/AOPA_card.gif&usg=AFQjCNFNKQrRmIWFLL7sGGboplx_sIJ47Q>
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I'll second what Tim said about the 1st flight in _your_ airplane, that
_you_ built. After 2 'false starts' at homebuilding, and delaying the
build for 25 years while the family grew and I attended to work. I don't
think there were too many nights when I went to bed that I didn't dream
about 'My 1st flight'. Strangely perhaps, a large part of the motivation
for building this airplane centered around that 1st trip down the
runway. I took 8.5 hours of Transition from Mike S. Had the opportunity
to fly another 2-3 hours in friends RV-10's. After dreaming about 'the
day' I'll admit to a whole bag of mixed emotions, anxiety being one of
the most dominant. When I pushed in the throttle pulled the stick back
and the plane just sort of magically levitated...... My 1st thought was
... Oh good I'm not going to die today ! As the engine & prop kept on
turning and the plane kept on climbing. The flood of joy, frequently
referred to as 'THE GRIN' swept its way through me. I orbited above the
airport for several circuits, trying REALLY hard to focus on temps, and
guages. Nonetheless I apparently missed at least one call from the
tower. I can vaguely remember the landing (I think) but in a couple more
months that will fade. The 1st TO however is etched permanently, and
while the event is now behind me, I relive it nearly every night just
before the last conscious thought of the day passes. With luck I'll have
that moment to carry with me for another 25 years.
Deems Davis
N519PJ 31.3 hrs and counting
Save us a place in the RV10 parking row @ OSH :-)
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
> not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
> but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
> thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
> you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
> training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
> or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
> a good job flying with one of the transition training
> folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
> as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
> job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
> your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
> preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
> inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
> problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
> of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
> in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>>
>> After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
>> George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
>>
>> I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I
>> also suck
>> at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was
>> exciting
>> and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
>> Flights of memory in my life.... in order
>> 1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a
>> hay
>> field)
>> 2. First flight in my RV-10 3. PPL check ride (note not my first
>> flight after......)
>> 4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
>>
>> Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
>> flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
>> signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with
>> chapter 23
>> and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with
>> the B-17
>> flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last
>> year
>> Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and
>> hope to
>> get in 5 or 6 this year.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Hi all,
I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the
part where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the
bulkhead frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and
to line up the marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the
stiffener should be "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008
frame... my question is, yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the
rivet hole in that back frame... is there supposed to be a rivet on
the back end, or is "captured" good enough? If there's supposed to be
a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or the plans are wrong... I even
re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
thanks,
James
#40400
Assembling tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Suggest looking at http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/TailCone_April_7.htm
and http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/tail_cone_april_23_2004.htm The
picture for step 2 shows correct positioning.
James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the
> part where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the
> bulkhead frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and
> to line up the marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the
> stiffener should be "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008
> frame... my question is, yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the
> rivet hole in that back frame... is there supposed to be a rivet on
> the back end, or is "captured" good enough? If there's supposed to be
> a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or the plans are wrong... I even
> re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
>
> thanks,
> James
> #40400
> Assembling tailcone
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
There's supposed to be a rivet. You sure one or both of the frames aren't
bowed? Make sure all the other frame/skin holes are aligned.
-Rob
On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 8:18 PM, James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the part
> where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the bulkhead
> frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and to line up the
> marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the stiffener should be
> "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008 frame... my question is,
> yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the rivet hole in that back frame...
> is there supposed to be a rivet on the back end, or is "captured" good
> enough? If there's supposed to be a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or
> the plans are wrong... I even re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't
> seeing things.
>
> thanks,
> James
> #40400
> Assembling tailcone
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UMPCs for the cockpit |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I have a samsung Q1 ultra, and it's mostly visible, but not always.
I'm building a 1600 nit screen with a capacitve touch sensor. Most of the resitive
sensors i looked at are rated for max 10000ft.
Has anyone ever had problems with resistive touch screens (most laptops tablets
& pdas use it) working at high altitude?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245833#245833
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior paint under upholstery? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I sprayed the entire interior. I decided it was going to take more time to figure
out what areas were not going to be covered by the Flightline interior and
mask it off, than it was to shoot the whole thing. Abby sent me a sample of the
material, and my local paint shop was able to mix a dead on match.
Jim Berry
40482 Weight & Balance
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245835#245835
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
The doors while sexy when finished are the real Achilles heel of the 10.
The top hinge leaves a lot to be desired safety wise.
As a part of the build experience it is not fun. The door part leaves you anxious
and frustrated. I think that a front hinged, jig assembled door would be a
real step up for the RV10.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245839#245839
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I too found the scribe lines confusing. The doors are a big project and they will
never be as perfect as you want them. But do not worry too much about over-cutting
the door (except if you disturb the glue joint). You can always build
up the cabin top flange to meet the door with epoxy and F/G tape or tape/micro-baloons
combo.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245842#245842
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
There are some mistakes that can be fixed without replacing the parts.
Look
at it as a repair. Using Acceptable Methods as a guide consider splicing
the
stiffener to make it the correct length.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners
Ok. Operator error. I guess I'm either getting tired or need to go
back to
tape measure school.
You know how something stares you in the face and you don't get it?
Well it
turns out I cut them 50 and 5 hash marks on the tape, not 50 and
5/8's...
the tape measure is marked in sixteenths. *goes very red in face* At
least
all the others are right :P
back to vans web store for replacement parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UMPCs for the cockpit |
Lenny,
any source/price for the 1600 nits screen?
Werner
Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> I have a samsung Q1 ultra, and it's mostly visible, but not always.
>
> I'm building a 1600 nit screen with a capacitve touch sensor. Most of the resitive
sensors i looked at are rated for max 10000ft.
>
> Has anyone ever had problems with resistive touch screens (most laptops tablets
& pdas use it) working at high altitude?
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245833#245833
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | user and password |
Hello Matt:
Please help with user ID and Password for me. I am on the RV-10 list
email distribution as: karolamy(at)roadrunner.com. I would like to post
today and cannot remember either! I can just set up a new one if needed
- please let me know how, as I can't seem to even get started!
Thanks,
Rich Hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: user and password |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 05/29/2009 11:26 AM, karolamy(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
> Please help with user ID and Password for me. I am on the RV-10 list
> email distribution as: karolamy(at)roadrunner.com
> . I would like to post today and
> cannot remember either! I can just set up a new one if needed -
> please let me know how, as I can't seem to even get started!
>
Hi Rich,
The email you just sent was posted to the RV10 list, so you are
doing the right thing! :-)
Just send another e-mail to "rv10-list(at)matronics.com" containing
what you want to post and you should be fine.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: user and password |
try dralle(at)matronics.com- that is the list Administrator. under
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
From: karolamy(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: user and password
Hello Matt:
Please help with user ID and Password for me. I am on the RV-10 list
email distribution as: karolamy(at)roadrunner.com. I would like to post
today and cannot remember either! I can just set up a new one if needed
- please let me know how, as I can't seem to even get started!
Thanks,
Rich Hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Learning through the efforts of others. |
Here is an AD for certificated GA production aircraft (posted this morning)
which could hold a kernal of wisdom on gps antenna mounting for 10 builder
s.
John Cox
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 group camping at OSH '09 |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
I understand that once again this year there will be a camping area set aside for
the RV-10 group. I found out from Tim Olsen that Bob Condrey and Gary Specketer
are looking after the arrangements this year but I don't know how to contact
either one of them.
Would one of you fellows please send me a PM to ivankris at rogers dot com with
information on how to get signed up with the RV-10 camping gang at OSH 2009.
Thanks
Ivan Kristensen.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245907#245907
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 group camping at OSH '09 |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
It sounds like its that time.Could you please post the info on the list for the
group camping two months will go by quickly!!!-Jim 728DD
-----Original Message-----
From: ivankris <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Sent: Fri, 29 May 2009 9:16 am
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 group camping at OSH '09
I understand that once again this year there will be a camping area set aside
for the RV-10 group. I found out from Tim Olsen that Bob Condrey and Gary
Specketer are looking after the arrangements this year but I don't know how to
contact either one of them.
Would one of you fellows please send me a PM to ivankris at rogers dot com with
information on how to get signed up with the RV-10 camping gang at OSH 2009.
Thanks
Ivan Kristensen.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245907#245907
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 group camping at OSH '09 |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ivan,
I'll contact you off-list also, but here's a post with tentative info
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=57784&highlight 09+osh
I'm compiling a list from folks that have contacted me offline but
intent was to post something in late June since there really isn't
anything that can be done before that.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ivankris
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 11:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 group camping at OSH '09
I understand that once again this year there will be a camping area set
aside for the RV-10 group. I found out from Tim Olsen that Bob Condrey
and Gary Specketer are looking after the arrangements this year but I
don't know how to contact either one of them.
Would one of you fellows please send me a PM to ivankris at rogers dot
com with information on how to get signed up with the RV-10 camping gang
at OSH 2009.
Thanks
Ivan Kristensen.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245907#245907
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doglas" <dougslawns(at)yahoo.com> |
John I can tell you for certain that the answer to your question is, YES! An emphatic
Yes!!! I have used these pliers for about six months now on plenty of
jobs, with success and a very low stress levels. I have in the past used hemostats,
safety wire, vise grips, screwdrivers...etc. All with cuts, limited success,
and 4 times the effort and time. I just finished using these pliers to
install adel clamps on all the fluid carrying lines that I replaced in a Mooney.
Need I say more than MOONEY. Here is one example... Two oil lines side
by side, double stacked adel clamps, bushing with the AN bolt running through
the firewall secured with a nut in the wheel well. Took me no longer than 45
seconds to perform this task without any stress. Buy the pliers, you'll be glad
you did.
--------
Douglas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245914#245914
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Just bumping the thread due to interest.
After consultation with Gary, we'll again stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/21 which
winds up being 13 nights. Price this year is $21 per night which comes out
to $273. You can either mail me a check (contact me offline for address) or
use PayPal. PayPal is much easier all the way around but there's a fee of about
$8 that they'll take out so if you use that service you'll need to send $281.
The campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and will be paid
for with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you leave early you
will receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site registration on your
way out of the campgrounds. Tim has said that he will once again have info
on his website to facilitate people leaving early coordinating with others coming
late in the week.
Summary, if you want a campsite:
- I need $273 from you ($281 if using PayPal)
-if using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net
- I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership must be
valid
- it would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're planning to
arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A, tent, etc)
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245919#245919
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
FAQs
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
or
- What do I do when I get to OSH?
When you get close to OSH you should call Gary or I to meet you at the Camp Scholler
registration entrance. Well already have registered you and will have your
car pass.
- Im flying in, what do I do when I get there?
There are EAA people that shuttle people from the plane parking area to Camp Scholler
in the days leading up to the opening. Give us a call when you get in and
well let you know specifically where we are at. If youre in the vintage parking
area its likely that a few of us can come over and help you carry stuff.
- What exactly does it mean when you stake out a site?
Camp Scholler starts out as a big, empty field. When you register you receive a
vehicle pass and also a card for your site. At that point you can rope off your
site and display the card. If a site is roped off and there is no card displayed
the stakes/ropes will be removed by security. Yes, they are actually driving
around looking for this! What Tim and I are doing is getting there early
(when prime locations are available), register the group, stake out/rope off sites,
and attach the registration cards to each site.
- Im arriving late, what about my site?
Your site will be registered and marked off at the same time as part of the big
batch. When you get in, regardless of when that is, your site will be there with
your name on it!
- Im leaving before the end of the show, can I get a refund for the unused days?
Yes, you can get a refund. You simply turn in the site registration card and theyll
give you a check on the spot. Regardless of how you pay us for your site
we will pay using a check which will allow for a cash refund.
- Im only staying for the first few days of the show, can somebody else takeover
my site when I leave?
Yes, Tim has an area on his website where it shows the on site information for
each person that has registered. One of the purposes of that is to facilitate
coordination with others. Any financial arrangements are completely up to the
individuals.
- Why so early for staking sites?
Whats the difference between having you get my site and doing it myself?
We are getting there early to get a group of sites together that is reasonably
close to the entrance, showers, camp store, etc. We arent doing anything special
except for that.
- Is there a place to fill the water tank in my motorhome? What about dumping the
tanks? There is a place at the southwest corner of Camp Scholler where you
can fill water tanks and/or dump tanks. Usually people fill the water tank on
the way in and dump tanks on the way out. There is also a septic service that
will (for a small fee) drive over to your site and dump your tanks. The only options
for refilling the water tank are to drive over to the area mentioned above
or use containers. I have done this in the past and will have a couple of
6 gal containers that you are welcome to borrow. Water is available near the shower
building for this purpose.
- Are the sites shaded?
It is highly unlikely that youll have a site with shade.
- What is the size of the sites in Camp Scholler? Nominal size is 20x30 feet however
some are slightly smaller, some are slightly larger and some have the same
number of square feet but are dimensionally a little different. This is the
reason that we are requesting info about what sort of camping accommodations
youll have. If you've got a large class A it's not a problem staking out the
site a little larger.
- How can I recharge my cell phone?
Generally in the afternoon and evening people with generators will fire them up
to recharge batteries, run air conditioning etc. Last year we had a couple of
power strips and people charged up. Another option would be to use the power
outlets on the exterior of the shower building.
- What bathroom and shower facilities are there?
There have been major improvements to the grounds this year including flush toilets!
There are also new shower facilities but I don't have details on them.
- Is there any sort of Internet access for checking email?
Near the shower building is a small building with a few internet connected computers
available for use free of charge. They are open during the day and usually
there isnt any wait. There is also supposed to be WiFi available at Camp Scholler
this year!
- Is there a place within walking distance for food, ice and other supplies?
There is a camp store with a large variety of food and camping essentials.
- What about getting around - is there any transportation besides walking?
There are shuttle buses that run from the Theater in the Woods area and will take
you all the way out to the warbirds at the north end of the field with numerous
stops in between. There is also a bus to Outlet Mall that departs from main
entrance.
- I already have lodging but would like to stop by, when is a good time?
Just about any afternoon or evening there will be a few people around!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245923#245923
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grumman 2 place |
| From: | James K Hovis <james.k.hovis(at)gmail.com> |
I miss my AA-1A with the 160hp engine!
On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 4:10 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> I talked with the Grumman guru and found the following. The worst of the
> lot was an AA-1 with an O235 engine. The wing was very fast and stalled
> about 60kts; not the characteristics desired in a trainer. Grumman modified
> the wing airfoil and came with the AA-1A, AA-1B, and AA-1C. the later models
> had the modified wing that reduced the stall and many of those have now been
> STCed to a O320 150 HP engine. Grumman made an four place AA-5 airframe, if
> it has the 150 HP engine it is really a two place aircraft ( Traveler) and
> pretty anemic. If it has the O360 180HP engine it has respectable
> performance and is called the Tiger.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning through the efforts of others. |
Wise advice indeed, but it does not look like an AD to me.
Informational only, I think.
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On May 29, 2009, at 11:50 AM, John Cox wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | glueing the doors |
Chris:
Great post! I am at the same place doing the same thing.
Sharing even further - simply fit/size/and drill all your door handle
hardware, pin blocks, and even latch pins to JUST the inner skin first,
then since you have already match drilled the skins on the canopy,
clecoe the inner and outer skins together and back drill the above
referenced holes. You can also now check the fit of the long and short
latch pins (the bend you made in them) for skin interference - you will
be able to SEE this fit as opposed to guessing since you can simply
separate the two skins and view the latch mechanism at work. In
addition you can perform the below with the skins apart.
Installing my grab handles in the middle of the door, necessitated
doublers and platenuts to be mounted on the inside skin and epoxied in
place. In addition I am fab/installing pull down straps that will have
a multi-function of holding the door partially open while taxiing in hot
temps. These, of course need doublers with platenuts. NONE of these
could have been done easily (or maybe at all) if the door skins had
already been epoxied together. So for others at this stage, take
Chris's GREAT SUGGESTION and don't glue your doors together without
thinking way ahead as to what accessories you may want.
Next would be planning, cutting, fitting for door locks of choice and
needed doublers of choice. Then once all the above steps are
completed, take everything off/out, epoxy the skins together per plans
and just keep the above pre-drilled holes clear by temporarily
installing some bolts in the holes and remove them once the epoxy has
begun to set up, but before it is fully cured and developed its
strength.
Yeah, it took about 30,000 hours of think time to fabricate the two
simple additions!
PS: Thanks to Tim and DJ and Matt for helping me get with the program
on posting!
Rich Hansen
Finishing Kit
RV-6A 1000hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
If there are any builders in the FTW/DAL/DFW area I will have some serious down
time June 4th to 6th. I would be willing to be a helper for a day or two.
Steve 40212 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Must-Have Tool Tip... |
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a tool,
but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one of these,
run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware store and
get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to work in and out
and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using this little guy on
the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The bendable shaft is really
strong and you can bend the heck out of it without impacting the torque.
Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal considering how handy it is.
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture of
mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Learning through the efforts of others. |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Whether or not an item is an AD has been beaten to death on this list in
the distant past. The kernal of wisdom lies with those who have not yet
taken the path of installation where the antenna's function might just
be degraded at a time which could impact safety in a negative manor.
This issue is much like the Emergency Locator Beacons of the 121.5
variety with antenna which could never transmit a signal to save the
soles on board.
Let me apologize for the casualness of my email which caused a few to
think in terms of narrow Airworthiness Directives. I did not forget
that many bask in the Experiment portion of Experimental Amateur Built
Kit and go defensive on the use of the work Airworthiness. I received
it from the Fed on a daily AD notification subscription. I found value
in what Cirrus was doing to make their aircraft safer for their
operators. Sorry to waste valuable bandwidth. it was offered as
Information Only for the Safe use of RV-10 builders.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David Maib
Sent: Fri 5/29/2009 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Learning through the efforts of others.
Wise advice indeed, but it does not look like an AD to me. Informational
only, I think.
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On May 29, 2009, at 11:50 AM, John Cox wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably conservative
for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry about it too much. I
will now have to go find something else to worry about.
Thanks again..
-Rob
On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn wrote:
> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
> together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
> bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
> together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the
> very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
> different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be,
> and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the gluing went
> well, but it was really messy!!!
>
> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>
> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier
> since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
> Linn
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>>
>> Linn
>>
>> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door,
>> but
>> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
>>
> SNIP!
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just some data points recently
weight: 2400 pounds 2250
OAT 57f
DA: 13150 13190
IA:11000 11000
MP: 19.7 19.8
RPM: 2230 2220
FF: 8.7 gal/hr 8.7
IAS: 123 kts 125
TAS:152 kts 154
GS: 162 kts 166
LOP range -10 to -25 -10 to -22
EGT range:1352-1395 1351-1392
CHT range: 267-316 264-313
% power: 56% 56%
David McNeill N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just some data points recently
weight: 2400 pounds 2250
OAT 57f
DA: 13150 13190
IA:11000 11000
MP: 19.7 19.8
RPM: 2230 2220
FF: 8.7 gal/hr 8.7
IAS: 123 kts 125
TAS:152 kts 154
GS: 162 kts 166
LOP range -10 to -25 -10 to -22
EGT range:1352-1395 1351-1392
CHT range: 267-316 264-313
% power: 56% 56%
David McNeill N46007
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Learning through the efforts of others. |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
I can't resist throwing my two cents in.In my location as in many others lpv approaches
are popping up everywhere and they are amazing,routinely taking us to
within 300ft agl through ground fog ang marine layers.I have enough to worry
about in these situations and appreciate the best antenna location possible.Thanks
for sharing I will be relocating my antennas
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Sent: Fri, 29 May 2009 8:37 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Learning through the efforts of others.
Whether or not an item is an AD has been beaten to death on this list in the distant
past.? The kernal of wisdom lies with those who have not yet taken the path
of installation where the antenna's? function might just be degraded at a
time which could impact safety in a negative manor.? This issue is much like the
Emergency Locator Beacons of the 121.5 variety with antenna which could never
transmit a signal to save the soles on board.
?
Let me apologize for the casualness of my email which caused a few to think in
terms of narrow Airworthiness Directives.? I did not forget that many bask in
the Experiment portion of Experimental Amateur Built Kit and go defensive on the
use of the work Airworthiness.? I received it from the Fed on a daily AD notification
subscription.? I found value in what Cirrus was doing to make their
aircraft safer for their operators.? Sorry to waste valuable bandwidth.? it was
offered as Information Only for the Safe use of RV-10 builders.
?
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David Maib
Sent: Fri 5/29/2009 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Learning through the efforts of others.
Wise advice indeed, but it does not look like an AD to me. Informational only,
I think.
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do
than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe
harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On May 29, 2009, at 11:50 AM, John Cox wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Must-Have Tool Tip... |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've already got one. It really works great - until it breaks. I plan on getting
a new one.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246026#246026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Must-Have Tool Tip... |
Sorry I don't have a picture ...... but Wal Mart has a nifty offset
screwdriver that's just a little longer than a bit extender ..... has a
sleeve that unlocks the ball joint that effectively does the same thing
as the spiral driver. Look for a red sleeve. Great tool for a couple
of bucks!!!
Linn
johngoodman wrote:
>
> I've already got one. It really works great - until it breaks. I plan on getting
a new one.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246026#246026
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | wiggly step syndrome |
I recently received a couple of beautifully machined bushings to preempt the wiggly
step syndrome. A couple of observations:
* One of my steps wiggled ever so slightly. My theory why this is so is that the
step holes weren't drilled perfectly perpendicular. Thus the AN3 bolt can't
grip quite enough... and the step would exhibit more wiggle over time.
* Using machined bushings sounds good, but they may not fit right if holes are
already drilled through the WD-1007 step and WD-1008 mounting bracket... unless
your holes are just about perfect.
* If anyone hasn't yet drilled their step and wants a pair of "new" bushings, mine
can be had for $23 including shipping ($33 otherwise). Contact me offline
if interested.
* Replacing the AN-3 bolts with AN-4 bolts made a huge difference. Once the hardware
was changed out there was no more step movement.
* Step access panels rock. Step inspection / tightening / replacement would be
very difficult without having panels installed and I don't know how you'd do it
otherwise. I used a couple of extra Vans wing type access panel kits for mine.
* Gottcha - Note that the bolt on page 30-4 installed with the head on top. Removing
that bolt bolt after the fact requires lots of upwards clearance and it
just so happens that there's a riveted on side panel in the way. Even with access
panels removing the bolt is difficult. I ended up cutting mine off and installing
the new -4 hardware with the bolt head on the bottom.
Now it's back to fiberglass work!
Regards,
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UMPCs for the cockpit |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Werner,
I bought the screens from Landmark Tech. LM190A-121X1-LO1 KIT $795 each. It comes
with the controller, and inverter. They are 12 inch screens.
http://www.landmarktek.com/
I also found a chinese manufacturer that sells 10 inch screens for only a couple
hundred bucks, 1500nits. The problem is that the resolution is only 800x600.
Regards,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246081#246081
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wiggly step syndrome |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
My steps had a slight wiggle, but I replaced the AN3 bolt with an AN173 close tolerance
bolt and it's rock solid. Get 'em at Aircraft Spruce.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246114#246114
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
I've added an additional note to the step bushing installion sheet
regarding what to do when the hole in the step tube is not centered in
the tube. Here's a copy of the revised install sheet for those that
already have the step bushings. It's also now on our web site.
One other note, the idea behind the step bushings was not only to help
resolve wiggly steps caused by the tube hole getting a little too big
during the drilling process, but also to help over the long haul by
providing a structure for the step bolt to actually provide a clamping
force against, thereby allowing the step tube to be tightly secured to
the step weld-mount.
Bob Newman
40176
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Who is selling a nose wheel tow bar for the RV10? I thought they were available
on Alex De Dominicis site.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246144#246144
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Bob=2C
Can I please=2C please please=2C pretty please...live in your shop!!!!!
From: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Subject: RV10-List: Step bushings
Date: Sun=2C 31 May 2009 09:13:53 -0400
I've added an additional note to the step bushing
installion sheet regarding what to do when the hole in the step tube is not
centered in the tube. Here's a copy of the revised install
sheet for those that already have the step bushings. It's also now
on our web site.
One other note=2C the idea behind the step
bushings was not only to help resolve wiggly steps caused by the tube hole
getting a little too big during the drilling process=2C but also to help ov
er the
long haul by providing a structure for the step bolt to actually provide a
clamping force against=2C thereby allowing the step tube to be tightly
secured to the step weld-mount.
Bob Newman
40176
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Bought mine from Aircraft Spruce.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246148#246148
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
This works great. BOGERT TOw BARS (BOGI-BARS). With a slight modification it
also works great as an excellent rudder gust lock and with a bungee it will lock
the stick. You can also get an attachment that extends the tow bar and has
a ring on it and you can tow plane with tractor. Once on it doesn't slip.
A little tricky to put on and not scratch your fiberglass. Reasonable price
too and light for travel. Carry it with you--many FBO can't move plane easily,
and it's a bummer to push backwards without tow bar. cheers. lbb
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246149#246149
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Kuddos to the BOGERT TOW BARS (BOGI-BARS). The bar is well made and very sturdy.
Fairly heavy to carry in the plane all the time, but sturdy in its construction.
Delivered cost $101.00 with shipping.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246151#246151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Bogi-bar at Aircraft Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars.php
-Ben
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 4117 (20090530) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Bogert Aviation
http://www.bogert-av.com/bogi-bars.php
They have a picture of Vic pulling his RV-10 on the bottom of that page.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of greghale
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: tow bars
Who is selling a nose wheel tow bar for the RV10? I thought they were
available on Alex De Dominicis site.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246144#246144
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Moving to the airport |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Moved the project 30 miles to the airport yesterday. We used a low-boy trailer
used for moving heavy construction equipment. The plane is about 90-92 inches
wide. the trailer is 8' giving about 2-3 inches on each side. There was also plenty
of room for the wings.
It was very cool. The driver disconnects the trailer in front and sets it on the
ground via hydo lift. The the rise is only about 12" over a 10 foot ramp so
that the tail does not hit the ground or the trailer when loading. :D :D :D
:D :D Then the driver reattaches the trailer and off he goes to the airport.
The unload only took 20 minutes.
After 2 years of home building, my wife has her garage back
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246153#246153
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p5302233_570.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tow bars/rudder gust lock |
Anyone wanting a custom rudder/aileron gust lock, DON'T buy or make one unt
il you see the one I came up with.- Will have pics when I get back from s
ailing.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 5/31/09, lbgjb10 wrote:
From: lbgjb10 <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: tow bars
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 8:22 AM
This works great.- BOGERT TOw BARS (BOGI-BARS).- With a slight modifica
tion it also works great as an excellent rudder gust lock and with a bungee
it will lock the stick.---You can also get an attachment that- ext
ends the tow bar and has a ring on it and you can tow plane with tractor.
- Once on it doesn't slip.- A little tricky to put on and not scratch y
our fiberglass.- Reasonable price too and light for travel.- Carry it w
ith you--many FBO can't move plane easily, and it's a bummer to push backwa
rds without tow bar. cheers.- lbb
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246149#246149
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving to the airport |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I was not able to locate a lowboy trailer in my area, so I hired a tilt-bed tow
truck. Worked great. The lady who schedules the trucks used to be an A & P, so
knew all about how to secure the fuselage, etc. Cost me $100. Between the -10
and my Pitts, my wife's car sat outside for 7 winters. A very tolerant woman.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Weight & balance this week, then get ready for the DAR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246160#246160
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I will add to the chorus about the Bogi-Bar for the RV-10. I bought
mine directly from Bogert. Collapses nicely to carry in the luggage
compartment.
BTW, Greg, I bought the seat latch levers you used to market and I
love them. They look great and work great. I also love your Weight
and Balance program.
Best regards,
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On May 31, 2009, at 11:01 AM, greghale wrote:
Who is selling a nose wheel tow bar for the RV10? I thought they
were available on Alex De Dominicis site.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246144#246144
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Steel Bits Revisited |
Hi
A while back there was a thread about what should be done regarding the
steel bits on the -10 (specifically the door hinges and steps). My door
hinges look like they came out of a medieval forge are only suitable for use
in a Lord of the Rings remake. I have read that some have plated their steps
but am uncertain if this would be suitable for hinges. I am a bit concerned
about changing the geometry, however slightly, that they have when sitting
on the canopy.
Is there a consensus on hinges?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - Living in a f/g world
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Bits Revisited |
Les,
I had my hinges powder-coated and they work fine. I initially powder-
coated the steps, but ended up painting them. We'll see how they hold
up.
David Maib
40559
On May 31, 2009, at 1:02 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
A while back there was a thread about what should be done regarding
the steel bits on the -10 (specifically the door hinges and steps).
My door hinges look like they came out of a medieval forge are only
suitable for use in a Lord of the Rings remake. I have read that some
have plated their steps but am uncertain if this would be suitable
for hinges. I am a bit concerned about changing the geometry, however
slightly, that they have when sitting on the canopy.
Is there a consensus on hinges?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 ' Living in a f/g world
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Must-Have Tool Tip... |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I use one on both the RV8 and RV10. Great tool. Purchased it at Home Depot.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246202#246202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Bits Revisited |
I have made up some really nice brackets that almost completely cover the h
inges.=C2- Made up about 50, but then made some changes to make them fit
even better and haven't rerun them yet.=C2- Will have pics of them and th
e rudder gust lock when I get home this week.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 5/31/09, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Steel Bits Revisited
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 10:02 AM
Hi
=C2-
A while back there was a thread about what should be done regarding the ste
el bits on the -10 (specifically the door hinges and steps). My door hinges
look like they came out of a medieval forge are only suitable for use in a
Lord of the Rings remake. I have read that some have plated their steps bu
t am uncertain if this would be suitable for hinges. I am a bit concerned a
bout changing the geometry, however slightly, that they have when sitting o
n the canopy.
=C2-
Is there a consensus on hinges?
=C2-
Inquiring minds need to know
=C2-
Les
#40643 =93 Living in a f/g world
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tow bars/rudder gust lock |
I haven't seen it , but I want one!
Deems
Don McDonald wrote:
> Anyone wanting a custom rudder/aileron gust lock, DON'T buy or make
> one until you see the one I came up with. Will have pics when I get
> back from sailing.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Sun, 5/31/09, lbgjb10 //* wrote:
>
>
> From: lbgjb10 <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: tow bars
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 8:22 AM
>
> <http://us.mc05g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=lbgjb@gnt.net>>
>
> This works great. BOGERT TOw BARS (BOGI-BARS). With a slight
> modification it also works great as an excellent rudder gust lock
> and with a bungee it will lock the stick. You can also get an
> attachment that extends the tow bar and has a ring on it and you
> can tow plane with tractor. Once on it doesn't slip. A little
> tricky to put on and not scratch your fiberglass. Reasonable
> price too and light for travel. Carry it with you--many FBO can't
> move plane easily, and it's a bummer to push backwards without tow
> bar. cheers. lbb
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246149#24614om/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator? -
> MATRONICS WEB FORUM; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
>
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246149#246149>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim(at)CombsFive.Com |
I have the one from SkyGeek.com
http://www.skygeek.com/4-rv10.html
works well for me.
Jim C
N312F - Flying 70 hours!
-->
RV10-List message posted by: "greghale"
Who is selling a nose wheel tow bar
for the RV10? I thought they were
available on Alex De Dominicis
site.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online
here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246144#246144
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
Features Navigator to browse
Un/Subscription,
Chat, FAQ,
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
available via the Web Forums!
http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
generous support!
Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Thanks everyone for your input. Now if I can figure a way to not damage the nose
wheel pant with the tow bar.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246246#246246
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I bought the same tow bar, but modified it by cutting off the female connec
tions, and replaced it-by welding-male pins which insert directly insid
e the allen head bolt instead of capturing the bolt on the outside.-- T
he advantage is a much smaller hole.... or if you made the hole the same si
ze, you'd have a lot more forgiveness in making the connection.-
Don McDonald-
--- On Sun, 5/31/09, greghale wrote:
From: greghale <ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: tow bars
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 8:43 PM
Thanks everyone for your input.- Now if I can figure a way to not damage
the nose wheel pant with the tow bar.-
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246246#246246
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Builders Gathering |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
Last year the four partners in N44YH hosted a gathering of Wisconsin RV-10
builders for lunch at our hangar. This year we are again inviting over
the 'locals' but have decided to expand the invitation a bit to include
Illinois builders and folks on the list. This is an informal event,
mostly geared around meeting other builders, and sharing tales of RV's.
Lunch is on us, so if you are available please fell free to stop in. All
RV builders welcome, one, two, or four seats who are we to judge.
No sales pitch or strings attached, just a chance to get together with
other builders and share ideas, and stories.
Date: Saturday 6/13/09
Time: 10:30, lunch at 12:00, break up after lunch (last year it ended
around 3)
Where: KSBM (Sheboygan County Memorial Airport) - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Who: Family and friends welcome
If you plan to attend please let me know so we can have enough to eat.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Wayne Elsner, Kyle Hokel, Tony Kolar, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - #40617 - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mills" <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Builders Gathering |
I will be there, possibly with my wife
Steve Mills
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 7:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Builders Gathering
Last year the four partners in N44YH hosted a gathering of Wisconsin RV-10
builders for lunch at our hangar. This year we are again inviting over the
'locals' but have decided to expand the invitation a bit to include Illinois
builders and folks on the list. This is an informal event, mostly geared
around meeting other builders, and sharing tales of RV's. Lunch is on us,
so if you are available please fell free to stop in. All RV builders
welcome, one, two, or four seats who are we to judge.
No sales pitch or strings attached, just a chance to get together with other
builders and share ideas, and stories.
Date: Saturday 6/13/09
Time: 10:30, lunch at 12:00, break up after lunch (last year it ended around
3)
Where: KSBM (Sheboygan County Memorial Airport) - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Who: Family and friends welcome
If you plan to attend please let me know so we can have enough to eat.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Wayne Elsner, Kyle Hokel, Tony Kolar, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - #40617 - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve source |
For those that purchased an Andair fuel valve recently, I have a couple
questions.
Is 12" the right size extension for the RV-10?
Van's only sells the valve and it's a special order from Aircraft Spruce.
Is it best to order both the valve and extension directly from Andair or get
the valve from Van's and the extension from Andair? I seem to recall
several folks having difficulties, but I don't recall the details.
Thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve source |
I don't know what the best way to order them is these
days, but the 12" extension should be good because
you will probably use less than 1/2 and that way if you
mess up you don't have to re-order from andair as that
could take some time and expense. I'd price the
valve from all places and get timelines on them if they
aren't in stock. If you can find them in stock, I'd
easily pay $20 more just to not have to wait for it.
It's too bad they don't have a good distributorship set
up in the U.S.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Bob Leffler wrote:
> For those that purchased an Andair fuel valve recently, I have a couple
> questions.
>
>
>
> Is 12 the right size extension for the RV-10?
>
>
>
> Vans only sells the valve and its a special order from Aircraft
> Spruce. Is it best to order both the valve and extension directly from
> Andair or get the valve from Vans and the extension from Andair? I
> seem to recall several folks having difficulties, but I dont recall the
> details.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> bob
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve source |
Bob,
I bought my valve and parts from Neal George. I don't know if he
still is selling them but it may be worth a shot. here's a clip from the
archives.
steve
Like many of you, I want an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV. I
bought an Andair FS20x3 from Vans and later learned that the valve and
fittings would be a very tight fit. I met with Andair's rep at
Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma - the major suppliers don't stock
the many variations; common fittings made the valves too big for the
space available; and banjo fittings are expensive, hard to find and add
unnecessary joints to the fuel system.
The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t.
Details and (poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
Current cost is $250 delivered.
I'll be happy to order more if there is enough interest.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (firewall clecoed)
RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve source
For those that purchased an Andair fuel valve recently, I have a couple
questions.
Is 12" the right size extension for the RV-10?
Van's only sells the valve and it's a special order from Aircraft
Spruce. Is it best to order both the valve and extension directly from
Andair or get the valve from Van's and the extension from Andair? I
seem to recall several folks having difficulties, but I don't recall the
details.
Thanks,
bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior paint under upholstery? |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I am at the same point and have decided to paint before the lid goes on. You don't
have to, but it will be more of a challenge later and you will curse yourself
if you don't. I am not painting everything - only what shows. The primer
is enough for the surfaces that will be hidden. I see no reason to waste $100/gal
paint on something that won't show. It just adds weight.
Remember that $450,000 Cessnas don't even bother to prime most of their aluminum.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246344#246344
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve source |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Bob,
Just to clarify, the actual extension is a piece of extrusion that you
cut to length. The exact amount you'll use is dependent on how far down
in the tunnel you mount the valve but as Tim said; it will likely be
less than 6". You don't want to come up short though!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve source
I don't know what the best way to order them is these
days, but the 12" extension should be good because
you will probably use less than 1/2 and that way if you
mess up you don't have to re-order from andair as that
could take some time and expense. I'd price the
valve from all places and get timelines on them if they
aren't in stock. If you can find them in stock, I'd
easily pay $20 more just to not have to wait for it.
It's too bad they don't have a good distributorship set
up in the U.S.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Bob Leffler wrote:
> For those that purchased an Andair fuel valve recently, I have a
couple
> questions.
>
>
>
> Is 12" the right size extension for the RV-10?
>
>
>
> Van's only sells the valve and it's a special order from Aircraft
> Spruce. Is it best to order both the valve and extension directly
from
> Andair or get the valve from Van's and the extension from Andair? I
> seem to recall several folks having difficulties, but I don't recall
the
> details.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> bob
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve source |
I received an email from Neal. He's not selling them anymore. He
recommended going direct with Andair.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve source
Bob,
I bought my valve and parts from Neal George. I don't know if he still
is selling them but it may be worth a shot. here's a clip from the archives.
steve
Like many of you, I want an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV. I
bought an Andair FS20x3 from Vans and later learned that the valve and
fittings would be a very tight fit. I met with Andair's rep at
Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma - the major suppliers don't stock
the many variations; common fittings made the valves too big for the
space available; and banjo fittings are expensive, hard to find and add
unnecessary joints to the fuel system.
The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t.
Details and (poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
Current cost is $250 delivered.
I'll be happy to order more if there is enough interest.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (firewall clecoed)
RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve source
For those that purchased an Andair fuel valve recently, I have a couple
questions.
Is 12" the right size extension for the RV-10?
Van's only sells the valve and it's a special order from Aircraft Spruce.
Is it best to order both the valve and extension directly from Andair or get
the valve from Van's and the extension from Andair? I seem to recall
several folks having difficulties, but I don't recall the details.
Thanks,
bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve source |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
When I bought mine, I shopped around the few places that carried the particular
model most of us were using. At the time I bought it (about a year and a half
ago) I went straight through Andair. It cost a little more after the conversion
to dollars, but I had just what I wanted and it arrived in less than a week
from ordering. Unless someone has a significantly good deal one one in stock,
I would purchase straight from them again if I needed to.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246354#246354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine |
I have an opportunity to get a Narrow deck IO540 engine and wonder if
anyone knows if it will work with the Van's engine mount and/or if there
are any issues with the cowl or anything else.
Thank you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
No problem - a lot of us have narrow deck engines.
Bob
N442PM
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine
I have an opportunity to get a Narrow deck IO540 engine and wonder if
anyone knows if it will work with the Van's engine mount and/or if there
are any issues with the cowl or anything else.
Thank you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
I had? no problems with a B4B5. Everything aligned and fit.Mine was a carb version
but I used an airflow performance FI-good luck-Jim 728DD
-----Original Message-----
From: pascal <pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 2:30 pm
Subject: RV10-List: WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine
I have an opportunity to get a Narrow deck IO540 engine and wonder if anyone knows
if it will work with the Van's engine mount and/or if there are any issues
with the cowl or anything else.
Thank you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK engine |
Depends on price, your desires, etc. Who knows how much longer Lycoming
will support the narrow deck engines. If you want roller cam,
forgedabowdit. If it is fresh overhaul and you don't expect to have more
than 12-15 years of flying left, it would be fine. Some accessories fit
easier on the narrow deck. It has been about 40 years since Lycoming
switched to the wide deck configuration.
pascal wrote:
> I have an opportunity to get a Narrow deck IO540 engine and wonder if
> anyone knows if it will work with the Van's engine mount and/or if
> there are any issues with the cowl or anything else.
> Thank you!
> Pascal
> *
>
>
> *
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I made stainless steel washers and plan to proseal them in place after painting.
I pressed a radius flange to fit the hole and also pressed a concave in the
thin washer to fit the contour of the wheel fairing. The washer is 1 1/2" O.D.
Hopefully this will save a few scratches.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246378#246378
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve source |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I was one of the posters that had problems getting an extention. I ordered mine
direct from Andair at Sun & Fun, but did not recieve confirmation that the order
was being processed. I finally recieved the extention last week. I ordered
the 12" model, but have not installed it yet, I cannot say if a six inch will
suffice.
For some reason I could not send Andair an e-mail , as my server would return the
e-mail as undeliverable in about three days.
I did recieve an e-mail from Jim Irwin , Aircraft Spruce ( they monitor these forums,
as I had mentioned that ACS had a different part for the extention than
Andair quoted) . He asked if he could help with my order in any way. I would
have ordered thru ACS had I had the correct part #. With ACS this is a special
order and not returnable.
I just looked up ACS 's e-mail with their quoted part # and it's the same as what's
on my invoice from Andair . EX-7 , TUB-12. Andair quoted me a part # on VAF
(exk-7) , to which ACS did not recognize and I did not dare order thru them.
Turns out ACS was correct and would have saved me a lot of frustrations.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246381#246381
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spinner Polished for sale |
| From: | "Tadsargent" <Tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have a beautifully Polished 14" 2 blade Spinner for sale. It includes the back
plate and front delrin spacer. This fits the Hartzell prop and RV 10. The
best fit is with the Sam James cowled 10. I will send photos with an Email response.
The offer price is $450 shipping included, this is half the price of
a new one. It can also be painted
Regards,
Tad Sargent
7A flying
10 flying
Team RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246426#246426
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Polished for sale |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
If that deal somehow doesn't go through, or anyone else has one for sale, i'll
take it.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246502#246502
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Polished for sale |
| From: | "Tadsargent" <Tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks for the replies, the spinner is sold pending contact with the seller and
payment
Tad
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246532#246532
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine weight & center needed |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
I am installing a Wankel engine in my -10. I need to know the actual installed
weight of the complete IO-540 with accessories, and the distance of the engine
CG point from the firewall, to assist in proper placement.
Anyone have accurate figures for either of these?
Thanks in advance for your help! :)
Phil
#40220 w/20B mounted and auxiliaries in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246531#246531
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Steel Bits Revisited |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
My steps are chrome plated. Look GREAT!
Did require enlarging hole thru sidewall to allow for 4 thousandths size growth.
Cost $75 for the pair after I did pre-polishing to smooth the tubes.
--------
RV-10 #40220 in Downers Grove, IL
(airframe done exc. gear fairings)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246534#246534
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to attach the
leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for "screw #6 x 1/2 SS SMS
3 Places". I assume these are Stainless Steal Sheet Metal Screws. I can't
find them listed in the hardware listing and going through all my packages,
I can't find anything resembling sheet metal screws.
For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these screws? I
know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if they were provided and
I have over looked them.
I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not sure if I can
get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try to add nut plates.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246617#246617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
| From: | David Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Gary,
I installed some mounting points called Nut-Serts for those screws. They
install from the outside. Then you can use a machine screw. Just be
careful however you mount them. Fuel and brake lines are just above.
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 9:31 AM, orchidman wrote:
>
> In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to attach
> the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for "screw #6 x 1/2
> SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless Steal Sheet Metal Screws.
> I can't find them listed in the hardware listing and going through all my
> packages, I can't find anything resembling sheet metal screws.
>
> For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
> screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if they were
> provided and I have over looked them.
>
> I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not sure if
> I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try to add nut
> plates.
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
they're in bag# 1526 1 looks like small simple screws.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 9:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing
>
> In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to
> attach the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for "screw
> #6 x 1/2 SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless Steal Sheet
> Metal Screws. I can't find them listed in the hardware listing and going
> through all my packages, I can't find anything resembling sheet metal
> screws.
>
> For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
> screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if they
> were provided and I have over looked them.
>
> I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not sure if
> I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try to add nut
> plates.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246617#246617
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
I used rivnuts and machine screws.... No sheet metal screws in my
planes!!!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 3, 2009, at 12:31 PM, "orchidman" wrote:
>
> In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to
> attach the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for
> "screw #6 x 1/2 SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless
> Steal Sheet Metal Screws. I can't find them listed in the hardware
> listing and going through all my packages, I can't find anything
> resembling sheet metal screws.
>
> For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
> screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if
> they were provided and I have over looked them.
>
> I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not
> sure if I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try
> to add nut plates.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246617#246617
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
I installed Click-Bond nut plates. They can be installed pretty
easily from the inside. Riv-Nuts or Nut-Serts would be another option.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jun 3, 2009, at 12:31 PM, orchidman wrote:
In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to
attach the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for
"screw #6 x 1/2 SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless
Steal Sheet Metal Screws. I can't find them listed in the hardware
listing and going through all my packages, I can't find anything
resembling sheet metal screws.
For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if
they were provided and I have over looked them.
I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not
sure if I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try
to add nut plates.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246617#246617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
If you want to use nut plates, one way to do it is the following:
1. Get 2 pieces of small diameter wire about 18" long. I used welding wire, but
hinge pin material works also.
2. After drilling the rivet holes for the nut plate, insert one of the wires in
each rivet hole. This can be done from either inside or outside the fuselage.
Slide the nut plate down over both wires till it bottoms out on the fuselage
skin.
3. Install a machine screw in the nut plate to hold it firmly to the skin. Remove
one wire and install a blind rivet; remove the other wire and install second
blind rivet.
As others have mentioned, Rivnuts or Nutserts work well also.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246649#246649
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
And if you really want to prevent some aggravation, clean the nut-sert
and the aluminum around the hole and use some red Loctite or JB-weld on
the nut-sert before you squeeze it. Use anti-sieve on the screw. This
way you won't have the problem of turning the nut-sert when you remove
the screw.
Linn
David Saylor wrote:
> Gary,
>
> I installed some mounting points called Nut-Serts for those screws.
> They install from the outside. Then you can use a machine screw. Just
> be careful however you mount them. Fuel and brake lines are just above.
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 9:31 AM, orchidman > wrote:
>
> >
>
> In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to
> attach the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for
> "screw #6 x 1/2 SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless
> Steal Sheet Metal Screws. I can't find them listed in the hardware
> listing and going through all my packages, I can't find anything
> resembling sheet metal screws.
>
> For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
> screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if
> they were provided and I have over looked them.
>
> I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not
> sure if I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try
> to add nut plates.
>
>
>
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
I hate it when I do that!!! Meant riv-nut, not nut-sert. Sheesh!
Linn
linn wrote:
>
> And if you really want to prevent some aggravation, clean the nut-sert
> and the aluminum around the hole and use some red Loctite or JB-weld on
> the nut-sert before you squeeze it. Use anti-sieve on the screw. This
> way you won't have the problem of turning the nut-sert when you remove
> the screw.
> Linn
>
> David Saylor wrote:
>> Gary,
>>
>> I installed some mounting points called Nut-Serts for those screws.
>> They install from the outside. Then you can use a machine screw.
>> Just be careful however you mount them. Fuel and brake lines are just
>> above.
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 9:31 AM, orchidman > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> In section 48 Gear Leg & Wheel fairings, on page 48-12 Figure 1, to
>> attach the leg gear upper intersection fairing, the plans call for
>> "screw #6 x 1/2 SS SMS 3 Places". I assume these are Stainless
>> Steal Sheet Metal Screws. I can't find them listed in the hardware
>> listing and going through all my packages, I can't find anything
>> resembling sheet metal screws.
>>
>> For those who have already passed this point, did Vans provide these
>> screws? I know I can get them locally but no need to get dups if
>> they were provided and I have over looked them.
>>
>> I know some have gone to nutplates in all 4 locations but I am not
>> sure if I can get to the inside for the 3 fuselage locations to try
>> to add nut plates.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching upper leg intersection fairing |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Thanks all for the quick replies. I just ordered some nutserts from AC after I
called Dave and discussed a plan of attack.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246664#246664
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | America's Aircraft Engine |
Looking for feedback on America's Aircraft engine in Oklahoma.
Any feedback is appreciated!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on
how well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line
that I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very
simple and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now
we'll see how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
| From: | "AprilZer" <aprilzer(at)gmail.com> |
I got some information that I really need here in this discussion.,I am so relief
that I found this site.
_________________
Aprilaire (http://www.iaqsource.com/aprilaire.php)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246720#246720
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Installation and wing bolts |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Trying to get the wings fitted in the next 1-3 days.
I see that you have to do the installation twice to get the fairings done properly.
On the first installation - Should I use 2 or 4 of the 3/8 temporary bolts
per wing? Vans says that two are ok , but elsewhere in this site four were suggested
Any suggestions for getting the VERY TIGHT -high tolerance bolts in the wing. I
do not have a super cold freezer at the airport. Would dry ice work or is that
too cold - possibly causing damage to the bolts from the extreme cold.
All comments and suggestions appreciated
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246732#246732
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Installation and wing bolts |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I think I only used 2 bolts per side but they were very close fitting (not drive
tight). There was no play.
I did not chill my bolts but did lub the shafts just a little. I used a rubber
tipped hammer to tap the final bolts in but chilling would help also. On the
second installation, I put my temps back in first then installed the 4 large
bolts, removed the small ones and installed the final small ones.
Note, if you installed the blue AN fittings on the fuel tanks for tank testing
and fuel line construction, you will have to take them back off so you can get
the lower outside 3/8 bolt in.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246743#246743
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Autopilot |
| From: | fixitauto(at)aol.com |
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might be considering
a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon servos today and will
be test flying it tomorrow. ?I will report on how well it handles the plane,
especially compared to the TruTrak line that I am very familiar with. ?The
installation of the servos was very simple and the wiring was even easier. ?I
am impressed so far. ?Now we'll see how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Autopilot |
It was a bracket provided by Dynon. It mounts where the original
Van's bracket mounted for the TruTrak servo before TruTrak changed to
the Torque Enhanced Servo.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:33 AM, fixitauto(at)aol.com wrote:
> Jesse
>
> What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
>
> For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
> be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the
> Dynon servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will
> report on how well it handles the plane, especially compared to the
> TruTrak line that I am very familiar with. The installation of the
> servos was very simple and the wiring was even easier. I am
> impressed so far. Now we'll see how it flies.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: America's Aircraft Engine |
guess, other than Rob, no feedback..
My follow-up question is for those that went the non-new engine mode via
Van's. Specifically a standard engine build (non cold induction)
Why did you chose this route versus just getting a NEW engine through
Van's?
Thanks!
Pascal
From: pascal
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
Looking for feedback on America's Aircraft engine in Oklahoma.
Any feedback is appreciated!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | America's Aircraft Engine |
I did it to save money...in the end, no real price difference.. If I was
doing it again, I would buy a new engine.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
guess, other than Rob, no feedback..
My follow-up question is for those that went the non-new engine mode via
Van's. Specifically a standard engine build (non cold induction)
Why did you chose this route versus just getting a NEW engine through Van's?
Thanks!
Pascal
From: pascal <mailto:pascal(at)rv10builder.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
Looking for feedback on America's Aircraft engine in Oklahoma.
Any feedback is appreciated!
Pascal
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: America's Aircraft Engine |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
I purchased a high time used engine to test fly aircraft and settle coolin
g and airframe issues without worrying about babying new engine.I then ove
rhauled it myself.Worked out well but next time will purchase new from Van
s,as cooling and airframe issues were minimal.Experience of rebuilding was
fun ,cheaper than new but is time consuming and reduces resale.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 6:37 am
Subject: RE: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
I did it to save money..in the end, no real price difference
=C2- If I was doing it again, I would buy a new engine.
=C2-
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
=C2-
guess, other than Rob, no feedback..
My follow-up question is for those that went the non-new engine mode via
Van's. Specifically a standard engine build (non cold induction)
Why did you chose this route versus just getting a NEW engine through Van'
s?
Thanks!
Pascal
=C2-
From: pascal
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: America's Aircraft Engine
=C2-
Looking for feedback on America's Aircraft engine in Oklahoma.
Any feedback is20appreciated!
=C2-
Pascal
=C2-
=C2-
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=C2-
=C2-
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=C2-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon AP Flight Test |
Here's the first take on a short test flight on the Dynon Autopilot.
The weather was turning bad, so we only got a 20 minute flight, but it
was enough to know that the AP works.
First of all, turning on the autopilot can be done on the Dynon
screen, through the AP74 (which I don't have installed yet), or via
the Control Wheel Steering switch on the stick grip (hold for 2
seconds and release). There are 2 presets when activating via the
switch, one holds current heading and altitude, and I think the other
flies your heading bug and altitude bug (I didn't test the second yet,
but it is a main setting, so it can't be easily changed). Using the
current heading and altitude also syncs the heading and altitude bugs
to your current heading and altitude. The CWS function worked great
and it grabbed my heading and altitude and held them fine. I haven't
gotten into tweaking the sensitivity and torque, but the default
sensitivity (10) and torque (100%) seemed to work great at first glance.
There are 3 modes for steering. The first is heading bug, which it
flew just fine. We have the HS34, so there is a dedicated knob for
changing the heading bug, which is really nice. It flew that all just
fine at what seemed like a standard rate turn. The turn rate and max
bank angle can be changed in the settings. Second is track mode,
which then gives you a track bug that you change with the heading bug
knob when in track mode. So, when flying a heading given by ATC,
heading mode would be used. When flying a desired heading/track,
track would be used. Both worked great, with smooth and even turns.
The third mode is Nav. A nice thing about having the HS34 is that you
can get GPS and Nav Radio inputs, so it will fly the HSI on either GPS
(GPS Steering via the ARINC data stream) using Track or on the Nav
radio using heading. It flew GPS Steering perfectly. Without the
AP74, you have to use the EFIS menus to change which mode is used.
Heading is default, so 4 button presses will change the mode (Menu -
AP - Mode - select mode).
The altitude modes, at this point, are either Altitude Hold or
Altitude Preselect. In either mode it gives you an indicator to trim
up or down as is needed. To change from hold to preselect, you just
move the altitude bug. Again, with the HS34, there is a "Value" knob
that defaults to set the Baro, but pushing the button changes that to
the altitude bug value control. Turning the knob changes the bug in
100ft increments. I don't know if they sit it like the AFS, where if
you turn the knob quickly the sensitivity changes, but it must have
something like that, because it is easy to tweak a couple of hundred
feet, but it can easily be set for 11,000ft, for example. There is a
preset vertical speed that is used for all climbs and descents within
the indicated airspeed ranges that are preset. You can set this
yourself, but as mentioned earlier, it is fairly deep in the menus, so
you can't adjust it easily. I would certainly like to at least see a
desired vertical speed for climb separate from descent. I usually
like to climb at 115kts or so, and like to descend between 300 and 500
fpm. It would be really nice to have an option to climb based on an
airspeed, but that will hopefully be forthcoming as the software guys
have time away from working on the new EFIS system. It would also be
really nice to be able to dial in a vertical speed instead of just
having a single preset. Again, this should be relatively easy in
software, but I don't know where it is on their priority list.
When the AP servos are installed and configured, you have an "AP"
indicator on the bottom left corner of the EFIS screen. Normally it
reads "AP:OFF-OFF". When taxiing or on take-off or landing rolls, it
reads "AP:SPD-SPD", basically stating that you are outside of the
speed range. I assume that the AP won't turn on when it reads that,
but I didn't test it. When the airspeed is below the point where it
starts to read, it goes back to "AP:OFF-OFF", so testing on the ground
is no problem. When activated, the screen reads "AP:HDG-ALT" or
"AP:TRK-ALT" or "AP:GST-ALT" (I assume it will say "AP:NAV-ALT" when
using the NAV radio, but I haven't tested that yet).
A feature that I like is the option of turning on either pitch or roll
control alone. When flying around sightseeing, it will be nice to be
able to turn and look at stuff without having to worry about
altitude. This can be done by activating the ALT function and leaving
the roll servo OFF. Also, until they get the vertical functions I
mentioned above, it will be nice to be able to trim for climb while
flying a Heading, Track or GPS Steering.
While this was not intended as a comparison between Dynon and TruTrak
Auto Pilots, I think some may be interested in knowing my take on
comparing this with the Digiflight II VSGV. The TT has the vertical
speed selection modes and the vertical GPS Steering (which is
fantastic for flying GPS approaches), but it lacks a way to level off
at a desired altitude. The Dynon has the altitude preselect, which is
really nice, but lacks the vertical GPS Steering. Dynon plans to have
this functionality when they come out with their AP76, but they have
put that on the back burner while they develop their new EFIS system.
The TruTrak also lacks a Heading mode (as long as it has a GPS input,
it rolls into TRK mode automatically), but most people in this case
would just fly Track anyway, probably, even if ATS gives them a
Heading to fly. I personally don't see this as a big deal (I know I
may be flamed for that).
For those who care, the calibration of the servos was really easy and
"clever". I was wondering while installing the servos (power, ground,
disconnect and 2 DSAB wires) how it would have you tell it which servo
was which, since they both are controlled through DSAB (Dynon Smart
Avionics Bus - all Dynon components communicate with each other using
these same two wires). When setting it up, it detects the 2 servos
and then asks you to center both controls, push the disconnect switch,
and then go to all 4 corners with the stick is it prompts you,
pressing the disconnect switch after each one. This detects which
servo is which and the range of motion. Then it will go to two
corners using the servos and ask you to confirm. I will say this,
that when trying to go back, it wasn't strong enough to lift the
elevator all the way up (the test is done on the ground, of course),
but with the needed trim indicator, I don't see this as a big
problem. I personally didn't have any problems with the original
TruTrak servo before going with the torque enhancer, although the
original servo didn't have a trim indicator, so it could have made a
difference if the plane was accidentally trimmed until the servo let
go (which I have heard of happening on at least 2 occasions, one with
the normal servo and one with the torque enhanced servo, in which case
I would probably be glad if I didn't have the torque enhancer).
If there are any specific questions, please feel free to ask off the
list (or on, if you think people will want to know). I am expecting
to get some more testing done in the coming days, so will know more
about the Nav tracking function (I didn't have a chance to test it
this flight, just the GPS Steering).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James cowl.Specificaly how
hard was the install,how are the oil temps and where did you mount the oil
cooler.Would you do it again?
? Thanks-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might be considering
a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon servos today and will
be test flying it tomorrow. ?I will report on how well it handles the plane,
especially compared to the TruTrak line that I am very familiar with. ?The
installation of the servos was very simple and the wiring was even easier. ?I
am impressed so far. ?Now we'll see how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon AP Flight Test |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Are the dynon servos always in the control loop, like the TruTrak's, or do they
have a release clutch, like the Trio? If the former, could you detect any change
in control pressures before and after installation?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246806#246806
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James Cowl |
I have one on my 6A. I don't think my install was much different than a
stock van's cowl - except for the three rings.
The plenum OTOH was a real PITA. The fiberglass didn't fit the basic
shape and required a bunch of reworking. Then I added the fuel purge
valve for my AFP FI system to make it a little worse.
My oil cooler is mounted behind #4 (it's a 4cyl- so for you it would
probably be behind #6). I left some baffling material available in
order for me to mount the cooler as high as possible. The oil temp goes
to 185 on a warm day in May and flat-lines.....I get a little spike in
temp as I descend and land. CHT's for that side are fine too......
I would do it again after knowing that the plug/mold for the plenum had
been re-made....to fit....maybe they started over for the 540.....
----- Original Message -----
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Sam James Cowl
Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James
cowl.Specificaly how hard was the install,how are the oil temps and
where did you mount the oil cooler.Would you do it again?
Thanks-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on how
well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line that
I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very simple
and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now we'll see
how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cold air induction |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Those of you knowledgable about the cold air induction systems in the RV-10 application,have
you noticed an increase in oil temps.Does anyone sell a unit adaptable
to a vans/lycoming?
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might be considering
a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon servos today and will
be test flying it tomorrow. ?I will report on how well it handles the plane,
especially compared to the TruTrak line that I am very familiar with. ?The
installation of the servos was very simple and the wiring was even easier. ?I
am impressed so far. ?Now we'll see how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon AP Flight Test |
I believe they are always in the loop, but don't exercise any force
unless they are turned on. They do, however, have drag on the
controls, just like the TruTrak. I took out the TruTrak servos and
installed the Dynon servos for the testing, so I don't expect there
would have been a noticeable change. I haven't worked the controls
without an autopilot servo connected in a long time, so I can't help
much there. They certainly don't create a great deal of drag, but I
would say they would be equivalent to the TruTrak.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 4, 2009, at 2:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Are the dynon servos always in the control loop, like the TruTrak's,
> or do they have a release clutch, like the Trio? If the former,
> could you detect any change in control pressures before and after
> installation?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246806#246806
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cold air induction |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I have the BPE FFCI unit. Love it! I have no idea about this effecting
oil temps as there are so many other items on my build that probably
have more of an impact on oil temps.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 11:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cold air induction
Those of you knowledgable about the cold air induction systems in the
RV-10 application,have you noticed an increase in oil temps.Does anyone
sell a unit adaptable to a vans/lycoming?
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might be
considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on how
well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line that
I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very simple
and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now we'll see
how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
<http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00
0
00001> to learn how.
________________________________
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
<http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00
0
00001> to learn how.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/04/09 05:53:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cold air induction |
Barrett has a cold air sump that will bolt right on your engine, I did that
for mine. I don't have any comparative data about oil temps as I did mine
right away before flying.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 1:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cold air induction
Those of you knowledgable about the cold air induction systems in the RV-10
application,have you noticed an increase in oil temps.Does anyone sell a
unit adaptable to a vans/lycoming?
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might be
considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon servos
today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on how well it
handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line that I am very
familiar with. The installation of the servos was very simple and the
wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now we'll see how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
<http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal0000000
1> to learn how.
_____
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America
<http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal0000000
1> Takes it Off to learn how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Glider flying, HuH!! |
Just thought you all might find this interesting. This is Mount Whitney Cal
ifornia=2C 14=2C500' ASL=2C where I soar almost every weekend in the summer
months.
I am only sharing this=2C this is not me piloting the glider=2C nor am I en
dorsing this type of flying. In soaring cross country=2C we are always thin
king about many things=2C like where to land if we can't make the next airp
ort=2C not getting into a box canyon where we cant get out=2C where the lif
t is=2C what kind of lift etc. We often times are close to terrain=2C but n
ormally we don't put ourselves on purpose into this type of gliding. Indeed
=2C I have been in those canyons=2C albiet a little higher=2C but trying to
climb up and out=2C always having the ability to glide down and out=2C but
altitude is everything in soaring and IMO should be in any flying. Anyway
enjoy this crazy guy's adventure who lived to see another day. I was flying
in the area on that day=2C but away from the overdevelopment you see in th
e video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjTmNJmJXbk
John #409 faring in the gear fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold air induction |
Hard to tell if Cold Air contributes to oil temp issues or not. I've got
Cold air, and my temps are on the high side, in fairness I live in
Phoenix and it's 105 today. Thunderbolt (which was/is the experimental
builder for Lycoming0 listed a Cold Air Option on it's price list at one
time. don't know if it was Lycoming's on someone elses.
Deems Davis
Phase 1 complete
pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote:
> Those of you knowledgable about the cold air induction systems in the
> RV-10 application,have you noticed an increase in oil temps.Does
> anyone sell a unit adaptable to a vans/lycoming?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
>
> Jesse
>
> What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
>
> For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
> be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
> servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on
> how well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line
> that I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very
> simple and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now
> we'll see how it flies.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
> <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001>
> to learn how.
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
> <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001>
> to learn how.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James Cowl |
I've got the James cowl and the plenum, and I've been asked this
question before, and I still don't have a good answer. 1st I don't
believe the 7-10 mph speed increase that's advertised. I'm not seeing
that, and I don't know of anyone else that is. IMO the installation of
the cowl is likely more difficult than Van's. Van's uses Nomex honeycomb
material as a sandwich, and James doesn't, I believe he uses Paralam (?)
a fiberglass type of sandwich. The result is that the James cowl is more
'floppy' (technical term). which makes fitting a bit more of a
challenge. I went through 3 rolls of duct tape in the fitting of my
cowl. I needed the James RV10 cowl in order to fit the BPE cold air.
However I ended up modifying it anyway because there was no James cowl
solution to allow for filtered air for forward facing fuel servos. The
early versions of the James Cowl for the RV-10 had a smaller exit area
on the lower cowl. He modified that and fixed the earlier versions, but
again IMO the exit area is still small, especially if you use the
Forsling exhaust headers/collectors which take up much of that area.
Will James is experimenting with some larger (12%) intake rings, I
don't know if there is any change in performance as a result.
The plenum is another story, I found that the intake rings did not match
the cowl intake rings. I ended up cutting one off and
repositioning/rebuilding it. i spoke with several other builders that
did the same. I did NOT use the James baffling plans but rather Van's
baffle kit. This requires further modification of the aft portion of the
plenum. as it's different than the Van's baffling. I also had to
fabricate an oil filler neck and seal for access to the oil
filler/dipstick. And I put a pop-up for the AFP fuel purge valve. The
fit of the plenum to the front of the engine case was terrible, I ended
up cutting it off entirely, and reglassing a new one. I'm not an
aerodynamicist, but I believe the plenum would benefit from slightly
larger volume of air. As it come from Sam it woujld require a major
modification to allow, in hind sight, I believe I could have fabricated
my own plenum for the amount of time I put into modifying Sam's. With my
Phase 1 complete. I am seeing pretty good CHT's (366-388) with OAT 24C @
altitude. I believe the differential will get smaller as I balance the
injectors.
Oil/CHT temps. I live in the desert and I've always been worried about
high engine temps. I followed almost all of the James cowl installations
and flights that went before mine, and I had developed a bias that at
least the BPE Jame Cowl. Had some high temp issues. After my initial
flights I felt this was also true for me. I initially had oil temps of
235 F and CHT of 425F. I sealed all known baffle/plenum leaks. installed
louvers on the bottom of the cowl, and installed a deflector inside the
oil cooler mount. The total improvement after 10 hours of flying
amounted to no more that 10 degree reduction in temps. Frustrated I
moved on, and installed the wheel pants/leg fairings. And temps droppped
to Oil 185-195 depending on OAT, and CHT's as noted above. I don't know
if it's was coincident with the engine 'breaking-in' or not, but my
personal beliefe is that installing the pants/fairings added 15 kts to
the TAS and that increase of airflow through the cowl/oil cooler had the
biggest effect on temps being reduced.
Lastly is appearance. IMO there is no question that the James cowl is a
major improvement on appearance over the stock Van's cowl. It just looks
good! And I'm very happy with how it looks.
So there's some more data , use your own individual decision weighting
criteria for how important/unimportant those items are to you.
Deems Davis
N519PJ Phase 1 complete!!!!!!!!!
pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote:
> Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James
> cowl.Specificaly how hard was the install,how are the oil temps and
> where did you mount the oil cooler.Would you do it again?
> Thanks-Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
>
> Jesse
>
> What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> >
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
>
> For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
> be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
> servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on
> how well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line
> that I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very
> simple and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now
> we'll see how it flies.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
> <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001>
> to learn how.
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
> <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001>
> to learn how.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Jim,
This is a loaded question. As I am one of the few flying -10
SJ Cowl & Plenums I will take a stab at it.
There is absolutely no actual engineering in the James cowl.
It looked good to them so they made one for the 10 with no specific
reason to be that shape and inlet size etc... As far as install it's
really not much different than the standard cowl but you have to
consider the Plenum too. Again not much more work than the baffles on
the standard cowl. You also have to know if you are using Carb/FI//Cold
Induction etc... That being said once you are flying there will be a
fair amount of trial work to get Oil Temps & CHT's down. The outlet area
on the cowl is not sufficient to allow for adequate air flow over the
cylinders and out the bottom. Especially with the awesome Forsling
exhaust that flair out and further reduce the outlet area. Deems was
fortunate enough to build on our experience by immediately adding
several sets of louvers to the bottom of the cowl. Ideally one would add
a set to the oil cooler side of the cowl to aid in air flow through the
oil cooler but we both didn't want to ruin the lines. That Deems is so
vein. The unfortunate thing about BOTH cowls is the poor airflow through
the oil cooler wedge and out the cooling fins on the oil cooler. Someone
makes an insert to better take advantage of the airflow through the oil
cooler but barely. Plan on upgrading to the larger 2006 oil cooler (at
minimum) with this combination. We actually reconfigured the oil cooler
to receive direct RAM air into our even larger 2008 oil cooler. This had
the added benefit of not taking oil cooler air from the plenum providing
more air to cool the cylinders.
To answer your question I would do it again? If I know what
I know now then most likely but all the R&D initially required made me
wish we stuck with the Vans plans. You may find that once you are flying
that Vans idea of simple, light & plans built is a pretty good option.
That being said it is undeniably good looking
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 11:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sam James Cowl
Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James
cowl.Specificaly how hard was the install,how are the oil temps and
where did you mount the oil cooler.Would you do it again?
Thanks-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
you guys are making me glad I went with the Vans plans. The only thing I had
had to do was eliminate the air dams in front of cyl 1 and 2.for AZ weather
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 4:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sam James Cowl
Jim,
This is a loaded question. As I am one of the few flying -10 SJ
Cowl & Plenums I will take a stab at it.
There is absolutely no actual engineering in the James cowl. It
looked good to them so they made one for the 10 with no specific reason to
be that shape and inlet size etc. As far as install it's really not much
different than the standard cowl but you have to consider the Plenum too.
Again not much more work than the baffles on the standard cowl. You also
have to know if you are using Carb/FI//Cold Induction etc. That being said
once you are flying there will be a fair amount of trial work to get Oil
Temps & CHT's down. The outlet area on the cowl is not sufficient to allow
for adequate air flow over the cylinders and out the bottom. Especially with
the awesome Forsling exhaust that flair out and further reduce the outlet
area. Deems was fortunate enough to build on our experience by immediately
adding several sets of louvers to the bottom of the cowl. Ideally one would
add a set to the oil cooler side of the cowl to aid in air flow through the
oil cooler but we both didn't want to ruin the lines. That Deems is so vein.
The unfortunate thing about BOTH cowls is the poor airflow through the oil
cooler wedge and out the cooling fins on the oil cooler. Someone makes an
insert to better take advantage of the airflow through the oil cooler but
barely. Plan on upgrading to the larger 2006 oil cooler (at minimum) with
this combination. We actually reconfigured the oil cooler to receive direct
RAM air into our even larger 2008 oil cooler. This had the added benefit of
not taking oil cooler air from the plenum providing more air to cool the
cylinders.
To answer your question I would do it again? If I know what I
know now then most likely but all the R&D initially required made me wish we
stuck with the Vans plans. You may find that once you are flying that Vans
idea of simple, light & plans built is a pretty good option. That being said
it is undeniably good looking
Robin
DSC08642.jpg
DSC08648.JPG
DSC08658.JPG
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 11:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Sam James Cowl
Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James
cowl.Specificaly how hard was the install,how are the oil temps and where
did you mount the oil cooler.Would you do it again?
Thanks-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged
on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came
close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from
Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave
for our 1st trip. Woohoo !
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)
N519PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours
logged on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but
this came close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover
arrived from Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat
Judy and I leave for our 1st trip. Woohoo !
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)
N519PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
Congratultions on a job well done
-----Original Message-----
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 6:18 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
?
Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!?
?
David Maib?
40559?
?
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do
than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe
harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."?
-Mark Twain?
?
On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:?
?
?
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged on 24
flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came close. Changed
oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from Abby. Fabbed some gust
locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave for our 1st trip. Woohoo !?
?
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)?
N519PJ?
?
?
?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Installation and wing bolts |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I used 2 temp bolts per wing, plus a little oil on the close tolerance bolts. We
had both wings on in 45 minutes, and I did not remove them or do a second install
per Van's. The only reason to pull the wings is to rivet the F-1099F and
G wing root fairing supports. I substituted CherryMax rivets for the AN470 driven
rivets. I figured if Van's calls for blind rivets to support the wing walk
area, CherryMax's would be adequate for the other supports. Disclaimer- I did
not check with Van's about the substitution. Use at your own risk.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246889#246889
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Deems, where is the first trip?
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2009 7:18:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!
David Maib
40559
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do
than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe
harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged on 24
flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came close. Changed
oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from Abby. Fabbed some gust
locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave for our 1st trip. Woohoo !
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)
N519PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Have fun, Fly safe.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246899#246899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
We're heading to Cedar City To see Judy's Mom Sat & Sun. Then up to
Provo, Mon & Tues to visit a couple of the kids. They will probably
want a ride, maybe we should head to Bountiful?
Deems
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Deems, where is the first trip?
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* David Maib
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 4, 2009 7:18:33 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
>
> >
>
> Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
> "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
> away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
> Explore. Dream. Discover."
> -Mark Twain
>
>
> On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> >
>
> Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours
> logged on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but
> this came close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover
> arrived from Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat
> Judy and
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Congrats Deems
Now the real fun starts!
Was there anything especially interesting that happened during your phase I?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in a f/g world
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: June-04-09 6:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged
on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came
close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from
Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave
for our 1st trip. Woohoo !
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)
N519PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Installation and wing bolts |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Wow - you guys are great with the help offered here.
Dave M gave me some great advice this morning. He said to go buy the 3/8" SERIES
8 bolts ($1.50/ea) at Ace Hardware to use as the temporary bolts. He said
to grind the threads down/off per Vans instructions. This high quality cadmium
plated product is sized slightly under dimension and after the threads are ground
off it slides in easily. He suggested using a minimum of 3-4 per side to
prevent scoring/gauling of the precision receptacle and to provide adequate support
to the wing.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246912#246912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Congrats - Your web site has been a real help and inspiration to all of us wanna-bee's
trying to get where you are. Kuddos on a great achievement . Calm seas
and tailing winds ahead.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246914#246914
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Your close.....Thunderbirds are at Hill AFB, Ogden this weekend......Airshow
should be great. We have tickets for a show in Reno, so I have to miss the
show....bumer.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
We're heading to Cedar City To see Judy's Mom Sat & Sun. Then up to
Provo, Mon & Tues to visit a couple of the kids. They will probably
want a ride, maybe we should head to Bountiful?
Deems
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Deems, where is the first trip?
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* David Maib
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 4, 2009 7:18:33 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
>
> >
>
> Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
> "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
> away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
> Explore. Dream. Discover."
> -Mark Twain
>
>
> On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> >
>
> Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours
> logged on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but
> this came close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover
> arrived from Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat
> Judy and
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 'Things' |
'Things' during Phase 1
Initial problem with the wrong oil temp sender, oil temp read WAY too
low, replaced on 2nd flight.
Sticky/'chirpy' right brake flts 1-3
Heavy right wing, Left flap not set correctly.
Roll trim reversed (embarassed).
Confirmed need for speed controller on elevator trim.
Worries about high temps. As stated before probably over thought this one.
Problem with poor crimps on coax for transponder antenna.
Difficulty calibrating fuel tanks w/ Op Tech/JPI
Volume too low on Com2.
Dynon D10A b/u efis configed as kilometers per hour - kph vs knots per
hour-kts (I thought I had a world record RV10 for a moment).
Deems
Les Kearney wrote:
>
>
> Was there anything especially interesting that happened during your phase I?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
This is sort of like seeing my daughter off to college Deems, for so long we
saw your journey building the -10 with bumps from the FAA medical along the
way but you are off and now out of the nest.. literally flying free!! (not
to mention darn fast too!)
Congratulations!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
>
> We're heading to Cedar City To see Judy's Mom Sat & Sun. Then up to Provo,
> Mon & Tues to visit a couple of the kids. They will probably want a ride,
> maybe we should head to Bountiful?
>
> Deems
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>> Deems, where is the first trip?
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* David Maib
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 4, 2009 7:18:33 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
>>
>> >
>>
>> Congratulations Deems. How sweet it is!
>>
>> David Maib
>> 40559
>>
>> "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
>> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
>> away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
>> Dream. Discover."
>> -Mark Twain
>>
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged
>> on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came
>> close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from
>> Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | stec 55x auto pilot |
Hi guys
I have the chance to get one of these auto pilots very
cheap however I cant get on to Stec (they do not answer there phone ) to
see if they will work on a RV10. I have some numbers and was wondering
if somone on the list new anything about these auto pilots. There is a
picture at the bottom of the numbers.
regards chris
VH-ICY
Computer/Radio
01192-0-53T
0628-10200
01192-0-53T
0703-10976
Roll Servos
0106-7-R2
0731-23347
0106-7-R2
0733-23401
Pitch Servos
0108-10-P2
0529-14952
0108-9-P2
0611-15789
Turn Coordinator
1394T100-14RB
K06-10652
1394T100-14RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stec 55x auto pilot |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
IMHO, STEC made a very good product, but the company and customer service
have gone down the tubes. They absolutely refuse to allow transfer of their
STC between certified planes, for any amount of money. Apparently the
management changed when Cobham came in, and it isn't a good picture. Given
that even if the autopilot were given to you, you would have to fab all the
interconnects, and any repair or parts would cost you certified prices, why
bother, compared to Trutrack, Dynon and others available in the OBAM
experimental market.
On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 9:46 PM, Chris and Susie wrote:
> Hi guys
> I have the chance to get one of these auto pilots very cheap
> however I cant get on to Stec (they do not answer there phone ) to see if
> they will work on a RV10. I have some numbers and was wondering if somone on
> the list new anything about these auto pilots. There is a picture at the
> bottom of the numbers.
>
> regards chris
>
> VH-ICY
>
>
> *Computer/Radio*
>
> 01192-0-53T
>
> 0628-10200
>
> 01192-0-53T
>
> 0703-10976
>
>
> *Roll Servos*
>
> 0106-7-R2
>
> 0731-23347
>
> 0106-7-R2
>
> 0733-23401
>
>
> *Pitch Servos*
>
> 0108-10-P2
>
> 0529-14952
>
> 0108-9-P2
>
> 0611-15789
>
> * *
>
> *Turn Coordinator *
>
> 1394T100-14RB
>
> K06-10652
>
> 1394T100-14RB
>
> <http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1FZh00>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
Congratulations Deems!
You've set such a high standard for build documentation on your web site, I
can't wait to see your trip reports.
I'm looking forward to seeing you and N519PJ at OSH.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged
on 24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came
close. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from
Abby. Fabbed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave
for our 1st trip. Woohoo !
Deems - living the dream - Davis 8-)
N519PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James Cowl |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
We have just started flying with our Sam James cowl and plenum. We have
not flown yet with wheel pants on, and experience is limited, so take this
for what it is worth.
I think the cowl installation was fairly simple, it really didn't go that
bad. The plenum we received was essentially a good template to use to get
started. Like Deems we used Vans baffling, which meant we had to modify
the aft end of the plenum significantly. It is important to note that the
aft mounting flange of the 'stock' plenum points downward, we flipped this
flange over so it points upward. Doesn't sound like a big deal but it
allowed us to move the intake for the oil cooler up an extra inch, which
meant less of the intake is blocked by the cylinder. Also had to modify
for our purge valve. Bottom line, between the plenum, and the ram air
installation I learned way more about fiberglass than I ever though I
would. Makes the cabin top and doors seem like a walk in the park.
Our temps have been what I perceive to be normal for the stage we are in,
cruise oil temps around 185, and CHTs 370 - 390, climb oil temps at 200
and CHTs from 400 - 420 (67 OAT at altitude). We do NOT have ANY louvers
cut in the bottom of the cowl yet. Our engine is a Lycoming Thunderbolt @
260HP, nothing special done to it other than flowed and 'extra' balanced,
no cold air induction, no bumps on compression, stock oil cooler, and
stock location.
Would I do it again??? Well now that I know how much fun it is to fly,
was worth the extra time? I like building and I like a challenge, I
probably would do it again, but I am a sucker. Can't speak to the speed
difference, but I will continue to tell myself that this speed mod is
responsible for 10 MPH, and the ram air is responsible for anther 5 MPH.
Making cruise at 200 MPH on 7 GPH a reality, oh wait reality, I forgot...
We all know the only thing that makes an airplane fly is cash, and the
only thing that makes it faster is more cash, these mods all seem to
satisfy the equation.
Just the story of one airplane, good luck reasoning yourself to a
decision.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
#40617 - N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Phase 1 'Things' |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Deems, you have been an incredible inspiration for a lot of the current
crop of RV-10 builders and flyers. I am hopeful that you will
transition gracefully into the flying field just like Tim and continue
web based support of your trips, mods, fixes and recommendations. I
have already felt the dearth of your postings for the last two months as
you left the nest to accomplish Phase One "without incident".
Enjoy the unencumbered flight in that beautiful
James/Barrett/Forsling/Davis creation - N519PJ. You and the Airbus 380
should make for quite an OSH '09.
Gentle Breezes & Soft Landings,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Phase 1 'Things'
'Things' during Phase 1
Initial problem with the wrong oil temp sender, oil temp read WAY too
low, replaced on 2nd flight.
Sticky/'chirpy' right brake flts 1-3
Heavy right wing, Left flap not set correctly.
Roll trim reversed (embarassed).
Confirmed need for speed controller on elevator trim.
Worries about high temps. As stated before probably over thought this
one.
Problem with poor crimps on coax for transponder antenna.
Difficulty calibrating fuel tanks w/ Op Tech/JPI
Volume too low on Com2.
Dynon D10A b/u efis configed as kilometers per hour - kph vs knots per
hour-kts (I thought I had a world record RV10 for a moment).
Deems
Les Kearney wrote:
>
>
> Was there anything especially interesting that happened during your
phase I?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken! |
A little late here.... but CONGRATS Deems.- Look forward to meetin up wit
h you again.- Trying to make it to Osh... we'll have to wait and see.-
Did get the pilot license just before heading to the east coast to clean up
our catamaran and sail for a bit.- Would have already done the first fli
ght on-our 10, but just as we were at the runup area it developed an igni
tion problem... so now that I'm back, that will be my first priority.
Congrats again, and now the fun starts.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 6/4/09, Deems Davis wrote:
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Phase 1 complete - The leash is broken!
Date: Thursday, June 4, 2009, 5:12 PM
Today I logged the last/final flight (1.3 hrs) of 40 Phase1 hours logged on
24 flights. I never thought I'd get my fill of flying, but this came close
. Changed oil & filter today to 15W-50. Cabin cover arrived from Abby. Fabb
ed some gust locks. No flying tomorrow. Sat Judy and I leave for our 1st tr
ip. Woohoo !
Deems- - living the dream - Davis 8-)
May 26, 2009 - June 05, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-eo