RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ew

August 09, 2009 - August 20, 2009



      between the three signal wires from the trim servo?  I looked for some
      info from Ray Allen on debugging at that level, without success.
      
      
      I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would try
      the list in case anyone has some insight there.
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      
      TDT
      
      
      Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      40025
      
      tdt(at)aurora.aero 
      
      617-500-4812 (office)
      
      617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Trim indicator
Date: Aug 09, 2009
You might have fried some of the individual LEDs. If you apply 12V directly to the indicator input line all LEDs should light. I don't have the indicator schematic handy but that is how I recall it is wired. When you applied 24V you got twice the current going through the elements. Depending on how long and the current capacity of the diodes they might e OK. At least one of them is.. Richard Bibb 972-771-2598 972-835-5979 mobile _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 10:38 AM Subject: RV10-List: Trim indicator All: Testing the trim (Safety-Trim) and trim indicator (Ray Allen), I got just one lit bar, at the far end of the indicator range. (can't tell yet whether it's the "up" or "down" end) Checking things, somehow I was applying 24 volts to the indictor power! I fixed that, but the result is the same. Do you think I "toasted" the indicator and now it will only show that one lit bar at the end of the scale, or is there some debugging I can do between the three signal wires from the trim servo? I looked for some info from Ray Allen on debugging at that level, without success. I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would try the list in case anyone has some insight there. Thanks, TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Bowmar" <paul(at)bwbco.com>
Subject: Re: Crimpers
Date: Aug 09, 2009
Here is a crimper sold by Plane Innovations LLC for $96.00. Call them at (435) 826-4662 Paul Bowmar N67KB RV-4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 10:38 AM Subject: RV10-List: Crimpers > > Listers, > Can anyone offer up an opinion as to what would be a good choice of a > crimper for wire terminals? Would like to start with the ring terminals > and then work up to the pins for DB connectors. > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Wing root fairing
Date: Aug 09, 2009
The gold and white rv10 has a nonfiberglass fairing. Does anyone know where I can get them. Robert Brunkenhoefer 661G corpus christi, Texas 170hrs Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing root fairing
Date: Aug 09, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Saint Aviation - Florida. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Brunkenhoefer Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 11:47 AM Subject: RV10-List: Wing root fairing The gold and white rv10 has a nonfiberglass fairing. Does anyone know where I can get them. Robert Brunkenhoefer 661G corpus christi, Texas 170hrs Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2009
Subject: Re: MAP sensor on GRT EIS?
From: DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net>
TDT, It's been a while for me but I don't remember anything special with the installation. So I would say 12V. Anh N591VU-flying On Sun 08/09/09 4:31 AM , "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero sent: Can anyone say if the Manifold Pressure sensor little box on a GRT EIS set up gets fed with 12 volts or 5 vollts? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 tdt(at)aurora.aero [1] 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [2] HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [4] Links: ------ [1] mailto:tdt(at)aurora.aero [2] http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [3] http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/ [4] http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2009
From: david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MAP sensor on GRT EIS?
12volts is correct David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying ________________________________ From: DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net> Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2009 3:38:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: MAP sensor on GRT EIS? TDT, It's been a while for me but I don't remember anything special with the installation. So I would say 12V. Anh N591VU-flying On Sun 08/09/09 4:31 AM , "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero sent: > >Can anyone say if the Manifold Pressure sensor little box on a GRT EIS set up gets fed with 12 volts or 5 vollts? > >TDT > >Tim Dawson-Townsend >40025 >tdt(at)aurora.aero >617-500-4812 (office) >617-905-4800 (mobile) > >http://ww://www.matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim indicator
From: Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Date: Aug 09, 2009
Does the trim actually move but the indicator does not? I went out and tested the POS-12 for my flaps and was able to get the indicator to move as I moved the trim itself, however it stayed in one position when the trim was not powered/working. could be a matter of calibrating it as well, if it's on the EFIS or other component. Pascal > All: > > > > Testing the trim (Safety-Trim) and trim indicator (Ray Allen), I got > just one lit bar, at the far end of the indicator range. (cant tell > yet whether its the up or down end) Checking things, somehow I > was applying 24 volts to the indictor power! I fixed that, but the > result is the same. > > > > Do you think I toasted the indicator and now it will only show that > one lit bar at the end of the scale, or is there some debugging I can > do between the three signal wires from the trim servo? I looked for > some info from Ray Allen on debugging at that level, without success. > > > > I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would > try the list in case anyone has some insight there. > > > > Thanks, > > > TDT > > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > > 40025 > > tdt(at)aurora.aero > > 617-500-4812 (office) > > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Transponder antenna location
Date: Aug 10, 2009
I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas attached to the fuselage bottom. I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'. I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin? Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2009
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8 Kit for sale
Guys- We lost an RV6 and two souls a few months back in Cottonwood, AZ. Below is the RV8 Paul-was building. I don't know any of these people but become sa d when-anyone is harmed by what we love to do. - Help find a good home for this aircraft. If I can assist with inspections o r arrangements let me know. - Bill DeRouchey N939SB, RV-10 928.237.1632 - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - This RV8 was being built by a friend of my brother Ron in Cottonwood, Az. - Ron's friend, Paul Haynie, was a long time commercial pilot and CFII wh o-died as a result of a plane crash-a couple of months ago. His widow h as asked Ron to sell the mostly completed kit. - It is an RV8 tail dragger.- I have inspected this plane and the workmansh ip is flawless.- Paul was even more of a stickler for details in construc tion-than Ron, and those of you who have seen Ron's-RV7a would understa nd the significance of this endorsement. - It needs an engine, prop, instruments, interior, and someone who appreciate s craftmanship.- If I had taildragger time and enough room in my hangar I would buy it to finish and show. - If you or anyone you know wants a two year head start on an RV8 call Ron di rect (tele # below). - > RV8 project for sale.- Empennage kit ordered 09/06, Quick Build wings & > fuselage ordered 08/07 and Finish kit 07/08. > > Empennage complete including all tips and transition fairing.- Tail > strobe/light installed.- Elevator trim installed. Empennage has been fi tted > to fuselage. > > Quick Build Wings are complete.- Wiring and pitot tube installed.- Pu sh > tubes have been fitted and installed.- Wing tips have been > fitted and are completed including navigation lights, strobes and > landing/taxi lights installed. > > Quick Build Fuselage is about 80% finished.- Brake/rudder pedals are > installed, brake lines and fuel lines installed and wings have been fitte d. > Whelen power supply has been mounted and floorboards are in place.- Can opy > frame has been fitted and mounted to fuselage.- Canopy has been fitted to > frame and match drilled.- Canopy skirt has been fitted to canopy/fusela ge. > Windshield has been fitted to rollbar/fuselage.- Baggage door and seats are > finished.- Aileron trim is installed.- Cockpit has been painted with epoxy > paint in light gray (the same color as van's powder coated parts). > > All parts have been primed with S.W. wash primer. > > The workmanship on this aircraft is as good as I have ever seen and I am > very picky. > > The cost of the above kits and extra parts is well over $31,000 plus a 6 to 8 > month order back log from Van's.---Over 1500 hours of very meticulo us labor > have been put into this project and can be purchased for $31,000.- You could > be flying this RV-8 in six months. > > This aircraft is in Cottonwood, Arizona and would have to be picked up > there. > > If interested please contact Ron Burden,- 928-649-2717 or 928-300-1448 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2009
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
I never knew of the 8' rule. I did read that 48" (I think, may be more) fr om any COM antenna was very important which is why I put it aft of the bagg age compartment and have not had any issues. =0A=0A Scott Schmidt=0Ascottms chmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bob Leffler =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mond ay, August 10, 2009 3:42:44 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Transponder antenna lo cation=0A=0A =0AI=99m in the process of installing doublers for all o f=0Amy antennas attached to the fuselage bottom.=0A =0AI understand that th e transponder antenna coax run should be=0A3=99to 8.8=99. I k now that some have mounted the transponder antenna=0Ain the center tunnel n ear the firewall. Others appear to have located it under=0Athe rear seat o r baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of=0Alonger than 8.8=99, I=99m curious to what issues (or lack thereof)=0Afolks have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these=0Aa reas? Is 8.8=99 really a hard limited from Garmin?=0A =0AThanks,=0A ===================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Crimpers
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 10, 2009
Wire crimpers for ring terminals, fast-ons, and the like can be bought from several sources. The important thing is to make sure they are the ratcheting type. The crimper does not release until it gets a full squeeze. These crimpers usually have three different dies on them: red, blue and yellow. This corresponds to the color code on the terminals (wire sizes). Get the best terminals you can (AMP are good) and don't go cheap on the tool. Connector pins work differently and depend on the type. The advice to check with Stein is a good one. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257055#257055 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2009
From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Bob, I don't see the minimum coaxial cable length in the installation manual (Garmin 327). The maximum 8.8' is for RG 400. On my 9A I have the TED antenna mounted right besides right gear mount and worked well. I keep it three feet away from my main COM antenna. There is no interference at all. On my 10 I will try to run all my antenna cables as short as possible. Ted Chang RV9A flying, RV10 Wing http://3limafoxtrot.com my flight track: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 On 8/10/2009 5:42 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas > attached to the fuselage bottom. > > I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to > 8.8'. I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the > center tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it > under the rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a > coax run of longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack > thereof) folks have experienced when they located their transponder > antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin? > > Thanks, > > Bob > > #40684 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Aussie to USA help
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Guys we are coming to USA for a short visit to pick some parts up from Stark avionics and do Disney world etc. We see there is a shuttle launch on the 12th of November and we will be staying in Jacksonville (Florida) and thought we could go and have a look. Any advise would be great like , its a must or don't bother due to crowds etc.Please email direct. Also can anyone advise on accommodation inside Disney world. Good, bad, ugly etc. vhicy(at)bigpond.com Chris VH-ICY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2009
Subject: Re: Aussie to USA help
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Chris, Many years ago I watched a shuttle launch from Jetty Park, about a mile south of the launch pad. It was truly awesome. Even at that distance the sound was amazing, and the image was spectacular. I hope you can make it. Go early because I remember there was a pretty big crowd. Dave On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 6:18 PM, Chris and Susie wrote: > > Guys we are coming to USA for a short visit to pick some parts up from > Stark avionics and do Disney world etc. We see there is a shuttle launch on > the 12th of November and we will be staying in Jacksonville (Florida) and > thought we could go and have a look. Any advise would be great like , its a > must or don't bother due to crowds etc.Please email direct. > Also can anyone advise on accommodation inside Disney world. Good, bad, > ugly etc. > > vhicy(at)bigpond.com > > > Chris > VH-ICY > > -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 10, 2009
In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals I can't help it. I am a sick man. Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on this list. Not an issue -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
8.8' of RG400, 12.5' of RG304, 17' of RG393. Some may know that I've had the 'leans' with my GRT EFIS. Initialises perfectly on the ground with no anomalous heading, but tilts 3-4deg once airborne. I have my XPDR antenna in the tunnel beneath the fwd baggage area, with the magnetometer in the 'stock' location on a shelf above and aft of the battery. Since the XPDR only transmits once airborne ('SBY' on the ground and automatically enters 'ALT' mode), and the AHRS only leans in flight, me thinks that perhaps the XPDR antenna is too close to the magnetometer and may be interfering when responding to a ping . . . . Will turn the XPDR off next flight and see what happens. Cheers, Ron VH-XRM flying in Oz -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Tuesday, 11 August 2009 3:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transponder antenna location In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals I can't help it. I am a sick man. Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on this list. Not an issue -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092 DISCLAIMER:--------------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Ron, Contact GRT for your lean problem. I don't think it is due to RF interference. I had that problem 520 hrs ago (at 120 hr). Called GRT and sent in a log file. They confirmed it was a bad MEMS gyro. They replaced both my magnetometer and AHRS (must be in pairs). I have no lean problem ever since. Ted Ted Chang RV9A flying, RV10 Wing http://3limafoxtrot.com my flight track: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 On 8/11/2009 2:46 AM, McGann, Ron wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "McGann, Ron" > > 8.8' of RG400, 12.5' of RG304, 17' of RG393. > > Some may know that I've had the 'leans' with my GRT EFIS. Initialises > perfectly on the ground with no anomalous heading, but tilts 3-4deg once > airborne. I have my XPDR antenna in the tunnel beneath the fwd baggage > area, with the magnetometer in the 'stock' location on a shelf above and > aft of the battery. Since the XPDR only transmits once airborne ('SBY' > on the ground and automatically enters 'ALT' mode), and the AHRS only > leans in flight, me thinks that perhaps the XPDR antenna is too close to > the magnetometer and may be interfering when responding to a ping . . . > . > > Will turn the XPDR off next flight and see what happens. > > Cheers, > Ron > VH-XRM flying in Oz > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike > Sent: Tuesday, 11 August 2009 3:58 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transponder antenna location > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" > > In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals > I can't help it. I am a sick man. > > Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on > this list. Not an issue > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092 > > > DISCLAIMER:--------------------------------------------------------------------------- > This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages > attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright > material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for > the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, > copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is > strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the > written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or > are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, > delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed > copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a > waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent > that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are > error or virus free. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Hi Bob, I installed mine in the tunnel forward to the firewall. It made the run very easy and I've had no difficulties that I'm aware of. Wayne Edgerton N602WT From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Subject: Transponder antenna location I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas attached to the fuselage bottom. I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'. I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin? Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aussie to USA help
From: "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Just don't plan your trip around the Shuttle launch- Nov is a long ways away and slips in schedule are fairly common. Dwight Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257124#257124 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Transponder antenna location
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
That makes a lot of sense on the limitation. I'll bet 8.8' is a multiple of the wavelength where they begin to lose significant amounts of their effective radiated power (erp). At the 1Ghz frequency range, the amount of signal loss is very high. The wavelengths are tremendously short and it takes a lot to get the signal out the other end of the coax and still have enough energy remaining at the antenna to broadcast a signal. The rule of thumb for all coax runs is to keep them as short as possible and to use higher-end coax on the higher frequencies. It's usually not that big of a deal at the VHF frequencies, but you still want to keep them fairly short because VHF is still pretty lossy - But it's nothing like the Ghz frequency range. I've measured power at the end of a 10' coax run in the 1.2ghz area and that's when it really sunk in at how much was lost in the coax. The shorter the better and the lower loss the coax the better. Phil From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com] Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 4:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Transponder antenna location I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas attached to the fuselage bottom. I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'. I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin? Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag measured at the axle. Might take more. Linn Wyatt Prunty wrote: > > Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed > (decelerating on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph > say. The vibration is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the > runway and worse with more rather than less flaps put in. We put new > doughnuts in at the top of the strut, plus the washer Van sends. And > the plane does better on level serfaces, especially if set with no flaps > and with some weight in the back. > We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels > (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, > as I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that > range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where > I am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the > vibration (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with > weight distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration > stops. The vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. > > Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level > surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose > down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, > as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at > the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in > the tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was > some bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for > the nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, > or just the installation of floats? > > This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS > > And wisdom welcomed. > > WP flying RV 10 N814BW ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel pants. If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance the wheel pants. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 > > > Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag > measured at the axle. Might take more. > Linn > > Wyatt Prunty wrote: >> >> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating >> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration >> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more >> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the >> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level >> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the >> back. >> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels >> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as >> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that >> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I >> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration >> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight >> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The >> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >> >> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level >> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose >> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, >> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at >> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the >> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some >> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the >> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or >> just the installation of floats? >> >> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >> >> And wisdom welcomed. >> >> WP flying RV 10 N814BW > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Also the transponder is transmitting in very short bursts, so you'd probably see those bursts showing up on your magnetometer if this was the issue. But as Bob said, the airframe is shielding that signal from reaching the magnetometer, just as it shields your genitals... :) Yeah, just come to think of it, I put my transponder antenna under the pilot seat... ooops. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257158#257158 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Nine feet of RG-400 loses about 30% of the power at 1 GHz. leaving you with 70% of what you started with (not counting connector losses). So if you double the length, to 18 feet, you only get 49% of what you started with to the antenna. This sounds like a lot (and it is!) but in practice if the shorter length works okay when you're 100 nm from the radar antenna, then the 18 feet will work okay when you're within 84 miles (square root of 0.7) of the antenna site. Not really that much difference. For years I've flown a 182 with the transponder antenna in the back, more than 9 feet of coax. Always works okay,passes biennial tests. So try to keep lengths down, but don't worry too much. Do make sure you use good connectors. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257160#257160 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
You will find most factory built aircraft will have the transponder and DME antennas right below the front seat ankle area or just ahead of leading edge of wing on belly. Why give away power and pay more for cable? On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Nine feet of RG-400 loses about 30% of the power at 1 GHz. leaving you with > 70% of what you started with (not counting connector losses). So if you > double the length, to 18 feet, you only get 49% of what you started with to > the antenna. > This sounds like a lot (and it is!) but in practice if the shorter length > works okay when you're 100 nm from the radar antenna, then the 18 feet will > work okay when you're within 84 miles (square root of 0.7) of the antenna > site. Not really that much difference. > For years I've flown a 182 with the transponder antenna in the back, more > than 9 feet of coax. Always works okay,passes biennial tests. So try to keep > lengths down, but don't worry too much. Do make sure you use good > connectors. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257160#257160 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
So I'm FINALLY getting close to putting my fingers on a QB fuselage. I've only been waiting for it the be delivered since early December. Hopefully it'll be here in mid-Sept. For those of you who received the QB fuse's, approximately what chapter did they leave off? I'm guessing it's somewhere between 29 and 32. Yeah, I know to start at the beginning and check box everything, but I'm also trying to get a handle on where we will realistically be so I can proactively get a handle on the steps ahead. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino
Date: Aug 11, 2009
I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list at Chino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar there. Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern California that have been blessed for first flights. Unfortunately, the call came 3-6 months before I actually need it. The airport manager informed me that I could wait another 2 years for another hangar if I passed up this opportunity... so I jumped on it. If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the garage and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage), please contact me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease. In the long haul, I'd love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in this way. Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino
Hey Jeff, any chance of using/renting some space from time to time when we fly down to visit family?- We fly out of Lincoln... up in the Sacramento area. Thanks, Don McDonald --- On Tue, 8/11/09, Jeff Carpenter wrote: From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Subject: RV10-List: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 11:23 AM I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list at C hino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar there.- Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern California that ha ve been blessed for first flights.- Unfortunately, the call came 3-6 mont hs before I actually need it.- The airport manager informed me that I cou ld wait another 2 years for another hangar if I passed up this opportunity. .. so I jumped on it. If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the gara ge and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage), please cont act me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease.- In the long haul, I' d love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in this way. Jeff Carpenter 40304 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose tire switching back and forth) .... which is what he described .... classic symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of round ...... you may be right. Linn Bob Turner wrote: > > try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Maybe I'm wrong; my observation is most factory planes try to separate the DME and transponder antennas by as much as they can, since they operate on frequencies that are nearly the same. That's how you end up with long cable runs to the transponder. I think most DMEs can even be connected to the transponder, so they know not to 'listen' when the transponder transmits. But overall I agree, it's best to minimize the coax runs, especially at a GHz. Has anyone with a forward mounted antenna had any heat issues, similar to the hot tunnel issues? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257184#257184 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath. Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I sure didn't like it. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
If you look at a few single Cessnas you will find DME and transponder on opposite sides of the fuselage with maybe 36-40" separation. I'm sure that is more than a couple wavelengths, and yes I believe there is an interconnect cable to keep their pulse transmissions separated. On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:15 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Maybe I'm wrong; my observation is most factory planes try to separate the > DME and transponder antennas by as much as they can, since they operate on > frequencies that are nearly the same. That's how you end up with long cable > runs to the transponder. I think most DMEs can even be connected to the > transponder, so they know not to 'listen' when the transponder transmits. > > But overall I agree, it's best to minimize the coax runs, especially at a > GHz. > > Has anyone with a forward mounted antenna had any heat issues, similar to > the hot tunnel issues? > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257184#257184 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Subject: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Certainly raised the question of what level of QA/QC Van's actually does or does not do when QB assemblies arrive back at Aurora. Sounds like it isn't much more than looking for dents in the exterior. On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a > few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things > were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now > that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even > removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath. > > Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with > too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I > sure didn't like it. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever and make it permanent with epoxy. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel pants. If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance the wheel pants. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 > > > Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag > measured at the axle. Might take more. > Linn > > Wyatt Prunty wrote: >> >> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating >> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration >> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more >> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the >> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level >> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the >> back. >> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels >> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as >> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that >> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I >> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration >> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight >> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The >> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >> >> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level >> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose >> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, >> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at >> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the >> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some >> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the >> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or >> just the installation of floats? >> >> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >> >> And wisdom welcomed. >> >> WP flying RV 10 N814BW > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Go with the SoCal Rvlist on yahoo if you haven't already. Interestingly, with the economy the way it is hangars are opening up much faster now, my 7 year wait 1 year ago is now 1 year at Long Beach. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 11:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino > > I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list at > Chino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar there. > Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern California that > have been blessed for first flights. Unfortunately, the call came 3-6 > months before I actually need it. The airport manager informed me that I > could wait another 2 years for another hangar if I passed up this > opportunity... so I jumped on it. > > If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the > garage and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage), > please contact me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease. In the > long haul, I'd love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in this > way. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
Date: Aug 11, 2009
I would think it wise to develop an "incoming inspection" checklist and go completely over the quickbuild kit as it comes in. Whether Van's does a good QA incoming from the Phillipines or outgoing upon shipment to you makes no difference. You need to make sure the airplane is built compliant with the plans and to not any discrepancies to Van's. The only way they can fix their process is to get non-conformance notices from their customers. I just bought a partially built kit from another builder and I'm doing the exact same thing. Richard Bibb 972-771-2598 972-835-5979 mobile _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 4:40 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment Certainly raised the question of what level of QA/QC Van's actually does or does not do when QB assemblies arrive back at Aurora. Sounds like it isn't much more than looking for dents in the exterior. On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote: IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath. Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I sure didn't like it. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185 ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few videos showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying technique helps too. Try minimize the nose wheel run during take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I practice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift up when it is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After landing add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I don't usually experience shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel down too early and I did feel it). Ted Chang RV9A flying, RV10 Wing http://3limafoxtrot.com my flight track: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > > Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever and make it permanent with epoxy. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal" > > Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel > pants. > If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a > problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the > problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance > the wheel pants. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Linn Walters"<pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Linn Walters >> >> >> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag >> measured at the axle. Might take more. >> Linn >> >> Wyatt Prunty wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wyatt Prunty" >>> >>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating >>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration >>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more >>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the >>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level >>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the >>> back. >>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels >>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as >>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that >>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I >>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration >>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight >>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The >>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >>> >>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level >>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose >>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, >>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at >>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the >>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some >>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the >>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or >>> just the installation of floats? >>> >>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >>> >>> And wisdom welcomed. >>> >>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW >>> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
I would love to see someone in a 10 that has the luxury of ADDING power aft er touchdown to keep the nose wheel in the air.- My problem isn't keeping the nose in the air, it's getting the plane slowed down enough to GET off the runway.- My nose wheel is consistently off the runway for over a 1,00 0 ft after touchdown.- This plane just doesn't like to slow down. Anyone out there able to add power after touchdown? Don McDonald --- On Tue, 8/11/09, Ted Chang wrote: From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:46 PM All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few videos showi ng the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed increases, the a mplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement you make on nose wh eel/strut, different flying technique helps too. Try minimize the nose whee l run during take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I prac tice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at take o ff. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel slightly above runwa y to accelerate. Airplane will lift up when it is ready (no need to look do wn for rotation speed). After landing add power as necessary to keep nose w heel in the air until close to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gent ly, with minimum braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I don't usually experience shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel down too early and I did feel it). Ted Chang RV9A flying, RV10 Wing http://3limafoxtrot.com my flight track: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: ausen.net> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noti ceably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, w hatever and make it permanent with epoxy. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel pants. If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance the wheel pants. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag measured at the axle. Might take more. Linn Wyatt Prunty wrote: Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the back. We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or just the installation of floats? This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS And wisdom welcomed. WP flying RV 10 N814BW =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Date: Aug 11, 2009
I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door handle. Any opinions? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Futzing with the left side lock ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Date: Aug 11, 2009
I have found holding back on the stick removes the shimmy when I experience it at times. Robert 661g Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com On Aug 11, 2009, at 3:22 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > > > Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose > tire switching back and forth) .... which is what he described .... > classic symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of > round ...... you may be right. > Linn > > Bob Turner wrote: >> >> try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure. >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> Read this topic online here: >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Subject: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
No question, except there is a different level of "expectation". Van's is holding out quick-builds as professionally built to top notch quality, wher e buying another builders work, you know it is to some degree amateur built. Nothing wrong with either, and both should be checked. When one pays a substantial sum, one expects it built right, with tanks that don't leak. When Van's treats quick build issues like tank leaks as the builders proble m and not something they will fix, there is a problem. Given the number of folks reporting these problems, either the right person at Vans isn't getting the information, or is unwilling(or doesn't have authority) to spen d the time and effort to eliminate it. For Vans to advertise quick builds as a way to save time and worry, only to have you have to worry that things were skipped or not done right, doesn't speak well of the company. On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Richard Bibb wrote: > I would think it wise to develop an =93incoming inspection=94 checklist and > go completely over the quickbuild kit as it comes in. Whether Van=92s do es a > good QA incoming from the Phillipines or outgoing upon shipment to you ma kes > no difference. You need to make sure the airplane is built compliant wit h > the plans and to not any discrepancies to Van=92s. The only way they can fix > their process is to get non-conformance notices from their customers. > > > I just bought a partially built kit from another builder and I=92m doing the > exact same thing. > > > Richard Bibb > > 972-771-2598 > > 972-835-5979 mobile > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
I'm with you Don, I routinely run a considerable portion of the runout with the nosewheel off the ground and the stick in my belly trying to help slow the bird. some of the problem is admittedly my getting used to landing at a slower speed than previous a/c I've flown. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Don McDonald wrote: > I would love to see someone in a 10 that has the luxury of ADDING > power after touchdown to keep the nose wheel in the air. My problem > isn't keeping the nose in the air, it's getting the plane slowed down > enough to GET off the runway. My nose wheel is consistently off the > runway for over a 1,000 ft after touchdown. This plane just doesn't > like to slow down. > Anyone out there able to add power after touchdown? > Don McDonald > > --- On *Tue, 8/11/09, Ted Chang //* wrote: > > > From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:46 PM > > All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few > videos showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the > speed increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever > improvement you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying > technique helps too. Try minimize the nose wheel run during > take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I practice > what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at > take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel > slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift up when it > is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After landing > add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close > to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum > braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do > this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I > don't usually experience shimming (well, a few times I dropped > nose wheel down too early and I did feel it). > > Ted Chang > RV9A flying, RV10 Wing > http://3limafoxtrot.com > my flight track: > http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 > > > > On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >> >> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever and make it permanent with epoxy. >> >> Michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 >> >> >> Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel >> pants. >> If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a >> problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the >> problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance >> the wheel pants. >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 >> >> >>> >>> >>> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag >>> measured at the axle. Might take more. >>> Linn >>> >>> Wyatt Prunty wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating >>>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration >>>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more >>>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the >>>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level >>>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the >>>> back. >>>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels >>>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as >>>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that >>>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I >>>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration >>>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight >>>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The >>>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >>>> >>>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level >>>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose >>>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, >>>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at >>>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the >>>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some >>>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the >>>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or >>>> just the installation of floats? >>>> >>>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >>>> >>>> And wisdom welcomed. >>>> >>>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW >>>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > * > > get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com > blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Date: Aug 11, 2009
I know of at least one other -10 that left off the exterior handle, but I am not sure why the builder made that decision. Easy access to both sides of the airplane is one of the improvements over Bonanza/ Mooney/Piper airplanes in my opinion. Having said that, getting to do it the way you want it is also one of the great things about building your own! David Maib 40559 Flying "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain On Aug 11, 2009, at 8:37 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door handle. Any opinions? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Futzing with the left side lock ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Transponder antenna location
Wayne, could you please indicate the distance back from-the firewall for the trasnponder antenna please?=0A=0AAny effect on the antenna as a resut o f the exhaust?=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299=0ASouth Oz-=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Wayne Edgerton <wayne.e@g randecom.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, 11 August, 200 9 9:25:57 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder antenna location=0A=0A =0AHi Bob,=0A-=0AI installed mine in the tunnel forward to the firewall. It made the run very easy and I've had no difficulties that I'm aware of. =0AFrom: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> =0ASubject: Transponder anten na location ----- =0A----- I'm in the process of instal ling doublers for all of my antennas attached to=0A----- the fuse lage bottom.=0A----- =0A----- =0A----- I unde rstand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'.-- I =0A----- know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in t he center tunnel=0A----- near the firewall.- Others appear to h ave located it under the rear seat or=0A----- baggage area.-- Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than=0A----- 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced =0A----- when they located their transponder antennas in these ar eas?- Is 8.8' really=0A----- a hard limited from Garmin?=0A- ---- =0A----- =0A----- Thanks,=0A---- - =0A----- =0A----- Bob=0A----- =0A-- ========================0A=0A =0A __________________________________________________________________ ________________=0AFind local businesses and services in your area with Yah oo!7 Local.=0AGet started: http://local.yahoo.com.au ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Jeff, I'm not sure how far along in your build you are. But heres' some things to consider: 1. The RV10 is NOT an easy airplane to get into and out of the front seats with 2 doors. With only one door and having to deal with the center console it would only aggravate the situation. 2. Think of resale, you may decide that for you and the people that will fly with you that it's not a big issue. If you keep your plane forever that will work great, but I believe most folks would look at the lack of a passenger entry/exit as a negative. 3. After you mount the doors (or the last time), you will necessarily need to enter/exit the aircraft through the passenger side opening at least 500 times. this could add more time to your build than you'd potentially save by not installing them. Not having an external handle on the outside WILL add time to the mounting and adjustment of the doors, unless you leave the window out til the end. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door > handle. Any opinions? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > Futzing with the left side lock > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Ted Chang wrote: > All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. They don't have to. There are a few videos > showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed > increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement > you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying technique helps too. If you can't tighten up the spindle nut, then add another set of the Belleville washers. The way the washers are stacked (back to back, belly to belly or nested) can also make a difference. Try > minimize the nose wheel run during take-off and landing will help > improving the situation. I practice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick > back before adding power at take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. > Keep nose wheel slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift > up when it is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After > landing add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close > to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum braking. > Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do this on my 9A and > after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. All good advice. I don't usually experience > shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel down too early and I > did feel it). Even that will go away with correct pressure on the spindle washers. There is a very fine line between tight enough and not being able to pull the airplane around on the ramp. Linn > > Ted Chang > RV9A flying, RV10 Wing > http://3limafoxtrot.com > my flight track: > http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1 > > > On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >> >> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever and make it permanent with epoxy. >> >> Michael >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 >> >> >> Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel >> pants. >> If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a >> problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the >> problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance >> the wheel pants. >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM >> To: >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 >> >> >>> >>> >>> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag >>> measured at the axle. Might take more. >>> Linn >>> >>> Wyatt Prunty wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating >>>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration >>>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more >>>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the >>>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level >>>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the >>>> back. >>>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels >>>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as >>>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that >>>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I >>>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration >>>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight >>>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The >>>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >>>> >>>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level >>>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose >>>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin, >>>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at >>>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the >>>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some >>>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the >>>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or >>>> just the installation of floats? >>>> >>>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >>>> >>>> And wisdom welcomed. >>>> >>>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Filtered Air Box (FAB) alignment
Thanks in advance to Tim and others who have documented their install. Can anyone tell me what the two pre-punched or pre-drilled holes in the VA-131-B Air Box Top Plate are for? I initially thought it was for alignment of the top plate with the VA131-C mount plate but that doesn't work. Now I'm thinking they are just some sort of tooling holes used in Van's fabrication process. The hole in the rear of the plate seems to be depicted on the "plans". The hole in the front isn't depicted but would probably be cut out as part of the carb heat door (which I don't need on my fuel injection setup). Thanks Bill "FWF" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I believe once you have the tires & wheel pants balanced plus upgrade the front axel all that is left is to refine your break out force. I have all the above mentioned refinements but I notice that I have significantly more shimmy now at 70 hours than I did at 50 hours. I believe Tim made his first correction (tightening) to the break out force around the 50-70 hour time frame to correct the weakening of the break out force. I also vaguely remember that Tim later reported that he had to re-adjust this less often after the initial tightening. I plan to try and use my cool little portable luggage scale http://www.balanzza.com/ to test and set the break out force for the firs time since the 10 hour mark. In regards to slowing down the plane once the mains touch I experience such tremendous thrust from my stout XIO-540 and BA prop. No different than controlling taxi speeds at rock bottom idle. The entire package is so efficient that the plane just wants to accelerate. Oh, by the way for those that are not flying yet, keep pounding, the plane is spectacular. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Brunkenhoefer Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 5:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 I have found holding back on the stick removes the shimmy when I experience it at times. Robert 661g Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com On Aug 11, 2009, at 3:22 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > > > Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose > tire switching back and forth) .... which is what he described .... > classic symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of > round ...... you may be right. > Linn > > Bob Turner wrote: >> >> try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure. >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> Read this topic online here: >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door > handle. Any opinions? That'll work fine unless you need to help someone get in the pass side .... get in, reach over and unlatch door, get out and walk around to help pass ..... But you'll go a little faster. Linn > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > Futzing with the left side lock > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
In the event of a fire, one might reconsider that decision. I would bet that the building of an amateur approved kit (VANS RV-10) has some trigger mechanism at DAR interpreted alterations that could go beyond the initial design and structure intent. I am not one to talk when it comes to mods to the RV-10, but it sure starts the thoughts flowing. Oh the thrill of Experiments. I might bet that you won't go a whit faster than the guys with the flush mounted handles but you might throw your main tire weight on the left main tire an ounce or two heavier than the right main. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 6:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door > handle. Any opinions? That'll work fine unless you need to help someone get in the pass side .... get in, reach over and unlatch door, get out and walk around to help pass ..... But you'll go a little faster. Linn > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > Futzing with the left side lock > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 11, 2009
In the last 3 months we have had 2 planes flip over on landing. One pilot extraction was a bit tricky. The lesson here is think about off-normal or accident scenarios. There may be times when you want someone to access the pass side real fast. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257238#257238 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Crushed oil filter
Date: Aug 11, 2009
Here are a couple of pictures of my Kelly oil filter after about 35 hours. There were no engine oil pressure issues or any indication that there was a problem with the filter. I was using straight weight Aeroshell 80 and changed the oil in May so there were no cold starts. I have switched back to Champion filters since that was my SECOND Kelly filter to collapse. This month's Aviation Consumer has an article on oil filters and rates the Kelly filter dead last. I talked with Mattituck's engine guru, Mahlon Russel, at OSH and he thought the problem was entirely with the filter. Sheldon Olesen N475PV 105 hours

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: Filtered Air Box (FAB) alignment
Date: Aug 11, 2009
IIRC, those are just tooling holes. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation jesse(at)saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Sent from my iPhone On Aug 11, 2009, at 9:20 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > > Thanks in advance to Tim and others who have documented their install. > > Can anyone tell me what the two pre-punched or pre-drilled holes in > the VA-131-B Air Box Top Plate are for? > I initially thought it was for alignment of the top plate with the > VA131-C mount plate but that doesn't work. Now I'm thinking they > are just some sort of tooling holes used in Van's fabrication process. > The hole in the rear of the plate seems to be depicted on the > "plans". The hole in the front isn't depicted but would probably be > cut out as part of the carb heat door (which I don't need on my fuel > injection setup). > > Thanks > > Bill "FWF" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Crushed oil filter
Wow, that's pretty amazing. I did read the Aviation Consumer article, and I have used all 3 filters in my plane....the Champion, the Kelly, and the Tempest. In fact, I've used each one more than once. For the past 6 I had a case of Tempest, and I was due to buy some more, so at OSH I went to the Tempest booth and asked them about the article. They actually are pretty sad that they didn't get to put in their rebuttal in time for print, but, to add a twist I'll fill you in. Indeed the things that they gave the edge to Champion over, some of them may not be 100% accurate, and those things apply only to one model of oil filter. For me, and most RV-10's, we'll use the 48110 filter. In our case I think Tempest really does have a better filter. Even where they mention the spring that pushes the filter in the can...they talk about Champion having a larger spring while the Tempest and Kelly have a cupped plate spring. As it turns out, there are good reasons to use that type of spring...it distributes the pressure to the outside of the element to hold it more securely from being moved by pressures and G loads. Anyway, after talking to them and having them point out all of the things that were different again, and where the article is less accurate or doesn't apply to me, I immediately went over to Aircraft Spruce and bought a case of Tempest to take home. After cutting many of them open, I can tell you that they seem more durable than the Champions, and should give just as good a service (and better in a couple respects) for less money. The Kelly, on the other hand, I used a couple of them and decided I'd never buy them again...they were not nearly as durable and cut open much much easier. So I agree with you. No Kelly's, but I'd definitely give high marks to Tempest after experience with them. I think I've used probably 15 - 18 Tempest filters on 2 planes, and probably just as many Champions. The magnet in the Tempest is a minor little bonus that I like, as well. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Sheldon Olesen wrote: > > Here are a couple of pictures of my Kelly oil filter after about 35 > hours. There were no engine oil pressure issues or any indication that > there was a problem with the filter. I was using straight weight > Aeroshell 80 and changed the oil in May so there were no cold starts. I > have switched back to Champion filters since that was my SECOND Kelly > filter to collapse. This month's Aviation Consumer has an article on > oil filters and rates the Kelly filter dead last. I talked with > Mattituck's engine guru, Mahlon Russel, at OSH and he thought the > problem was entirely with the filter. > > Sheldon Olesen > N475PV 105 hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I'd be stupid not to check and make sure everything is done. That's to be expected. But does anyone recall the approximate stage of completion where they could definitely say the work hadn't been completed? Thanks, Phil From: Perry, Phil Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment So I'm FINALLY getting close to putting my fingers on a QB fuselage. I've only been waiting for it the be delivered since early December. Hopefully it'll be here in mid-Sept. For those of you who received the QB fuse's, approximately what chapter did they leave off? I'm guessing it's somewhere between 29 and 32. Yeah, I know to start at the beginning and check box everything, but I'm also trying to get a handle on where we will realistically be so I can proactively get a handle on the steps ahead. Thanks, Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sounds like fun! But I'll still come out ahead on the clock.. J From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 4:40 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment Certainly raised the question of what level of QA/QC Van's actually does or does not do when QB assemblies arrive back at Aurora. Sounds like it isn't much more than looking for dents in the exterior. On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote: IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath. Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I sure didn't like it. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Lord mounts, tubes for tires
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Van's does not have any Lord engine mounts. They are back ordered with no delivery date in site. They gave me a Lord part number of J3804 but looking at Spruce's site the number includes a -20 or -15 etc. Can anyone tell me which part number to order? Or another source as Spruce's price is $50 more per mount than Van's? Also, I am about to put the plane on the gear. I have heard I should install better tubes in the tires than what Van's supplies because they leak. Which should I switch to and where to get them? Or are Van's supplied good enough? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 Fiddling with the doors. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Dave, what the heck is going on there that would produce-2 seperate incid ents like flipping planes over.- Maybe I DON'T want to come visit the Pla ntation! Don McDonald --- On Tue, 8/11/09, nukeflyboy wrote: From: nukeflyboy <flymoore(at)charter.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 7:45 PM In the last 3 months we have had 2 planes flip over on landing.- One pilo t extraction was a bit tricky.- The lesson here is think about off-normal or accident scenarios.- There may be times when you want someone to acce ss the pass side real fast. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257238#257238 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Deems, you need to change your signature message- ------ 'Its all don e....Its just not put together'... it better be put together, you're flying it. Don --- On Tue, 8/11/09, Deems Davis wrote: From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 6:02 PM I'm with you Don, I routinely run a considerable portion of the runout with the nosewheel off the ground and the stick in my belly trying to help slow the bird. some of the problem is admittedly my getting used to landing at a slower speed than previous a/c I've flown. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Don McDonald wrote: > I would love to see someone in a 10 that has the luxury of ADDING power a fter touchdown to keep the nose wheel in the air.- My problem isn't keepi ng the nose in the air, it's getting the plane slowed down enough to GET of f the runway.- My nose wheel is consistently off the runway for over a 1, 000 ft after touchdown.- This plane just doesn't like to slow down. > Anyone out there able to add power after touchdown? > Don McDonald > > --- On *Tue, 8/11/09, Ted Chang //* wrote: > > >- ---From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> >- ---Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10 /09 >- ---To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >- ---Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:46 PM > >- ---All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a fe w >- ---videos showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the >- ---speed increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to what ever >- ---improvement you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying >- ---technique helps too. Try minimize the nose wheel run during >- ---take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I pra ctice >- ---what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at >- ---take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel >- ---slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift up wh en it >- ---is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After lan ding >- ---add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until cl ose >- ---to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minim um >- ---braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I d o >- ---this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I >- ---don't usually experience shimming (well, a few times I droppe d >- ---nose wheel down too early and I did feel it). > >- ---Ted Chang >- ---RV9A flying, RV10 Wing >- ---http://3limafoxtrot.com >- ---my flight track: >- ---http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last =1 >- - - - - - --- > >- ---On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: )" >> >>- - ---Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at le ast the RV's.- A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably smoother.- Not terribly difficult to do, just u se some shot, nuts, whatever and make it permanent with epoxy. >> >>- ---Michael >> >>- --------Original Message----- >>- ---From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv1 0-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal >>- ---Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM >>- ---To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>- ---Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/1 0/09 >> on.net> >> >>- ---Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and ba lance the wheel- ---pants. >>- ---If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a- ---problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the- ---problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance- ---the wheel pants. >>- ---Pascal >> >>- ----------------------------------------------------- >>- ---From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> >>- ---Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM >>- ---To: >>- ---Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/1 0/09 >> >>- - --- bellsouth.net> >>> >>> >>>- ---Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 l b of drag- ---measured at the axle.- Might take more. >>>- ---Linn >>> >>>- ---Wyatt Prunty wrote: >>>- - - --- ewanee.edu> >>>> >>>>- ---Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow spee d (decelerating- ---on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to 35 mph say.- The vibration- ---is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more- ---rather than less flaps put in.- We put new doughnuts in at the top of the- ---strut, plu s the washer Van sends.- And the plane does better on level- ---s erfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the- - --back. >>>>- ---We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels- ---(now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as- ---I said, put a washer in at the top of t he strut.- Still there is that- ---range of a bout 4 mph when slo wing that comes right under 40 mph, where I- ---am guessing the ele vator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration- ---(getting under 30 mph).- I am not sure what that does with weight- ---dis tribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The- - --vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel. >>>> >>>>- - ---Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helpe d for level- ---surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can ge t the plane in a nose- ---down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,- ---as the plane slows below 40 mph. - What about installing two washers at- ---the top of the strut, instead of one?- Or a small amount of weight in the- ---tail?- Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some- --- bending in the old one?- What's the fix?- A heavier duty strut for the - ---nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the t ail, or- ---just the installation of floats? >>>> >>>>- ---This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS >>>> >>>>- ---And wisdom welcomed. >>>> >>>>- ---WP flying RV 10 N814BW >>>>- - - - --- >>>- - - --- >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>- - --- >- ---* > >- ---get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigato r?RV10-List >- ---=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com >- ---blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >- ---* > > > * > > > * le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Lord mounts, tubes for tires
Date: Aug 11, 2009
My kit was from 2005 and the tubes were Michelin leak proof tubes. check them... _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 10:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Lord mounts, tubes for tires Van's does not have any Lord engine mounts. They are back ordered with no delivery date in site. They gave me a Lord part number of J3804 but looking at Spruce's site the number includes a -20 or -15 etc. Can anyone tell me which part number to order? Or another source as Spruce's price is $50 more per mount than Van's? Also, I am about to put the plane on the gear. I have heard I should install better tubes in the tires than what Van's supplies because they leak. Which should I switch to and where to get them? Or are Van's supplied good enough? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 Fiddling with the doors. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord mounts, tubes for tires
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Dave, I dropped the tires and tubes from my finish kit and purchased them from Desser tire, which was mentioned by several other builders. I didn't pay too much more than the Vans price, but got Goodyear flight custom tires, and the leak proof tubes (the name was a little different than that though). They arrived in a couple of days and they added in a big bag of tire talc too. I too am waiting on Lord mounts. It looks like I am just going to have to get the credit and buy them on my own if Vans is going to procure any to provide in the kits. Eric Kallio 40518 Trimming doors, but on its wheels Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257291#257291 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose strut bend
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very subtle curve, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it has a constant curve to the right. The gap between the straight edge and the tube is very small - only about 1/16", but it's definitely there. Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is straight. Perhaps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of this? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Nose strut bend
John, Not sure if we're talking about the same part, but my nose gear had a curve in it.=C2- It was off by 3/16" in the middle.=C2-=C2- I contacted Va n's with pics and they sent a replacement.=C2- I did not have to send the old one back.=C2- It now resides in a scrap heap. Van's told me they had a few of these that came out this way from the suppl ier and there was an occassional jig issue during welding. Here's a pic:=C2- http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/index.php?q=log_ entry&log_id=19689 Sean Blair =C2-=C2- ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 10:25:19 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: RV10-List: Nose strut bend Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very subtle curv e, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it has a constant curv e to the right. The gap between the straight edge and the tube is very smal l - only about 1/16", but it's definitely there. Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is straight. Per haps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of this? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Pa nel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 =========== =========== MS - =========== e - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Nose strut bend
Date: Aug 12, 2009
i noticed my vans tires were wearing on the outside . is there a reason for this and a fix?robert 661G i will check my nose strut for your anomaly. On Aug 12, 2009, at 11:25 AM, johngoodman wrote: > > > > Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very > subtle curve, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it > has a constant curve to the right. The gap between the straight edge > and the tube is very small - only about 1/16", but it's definitely > there. > Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is > straight. Perhaps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of this? > > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine > & Panel delivery soon. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose strut bend
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Here are two photos of mine. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257307#257307 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06554_205.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06553_170.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lord mounts, tubes for tires
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Same here (sort of), I had Michelin leak stop tubes for the mains but something else for the nose. I've since replaced with a Michelin tube. Mains: 15x6.00-6 Michelin Airstop 6EL20, P/N 097-500-0 Nose: 5.00x5 Michelin Airstop 5CG67, P/N 092-308-0 Bob N442PM _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 1:55 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lord mounts, tubes for tires My kit was from 2005 and the tubes were Michelin leak proof tubes. check them... _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 10:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: Lord mounts, tubes for tires Van's does not have any Lord engine mounts. They are back ordered with no delivery date in site. They gave me a Lord part number of J3804 but looking at Spruce's site the number includes a -20 or -15 etc. Can anyone tell me which part number to order? Or another source as Spruce's price is $50 more per mount than Van's? Also, I am about to put the plane on the gear. I have heard I should install better tubes in the tires than what Van's supplies because they leak. Which should I switch to and where to get them? Or are Van's supplied good enough? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 Fiddling with the doors. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 12, 2009
All the Cessnas that I'm use to flying have an external lock only on the left door. You have to reach inside the cabin to unlock the right door. I'm planning on following that model. e.g., right door will have an external handle but will lock internally (I'll get a pin into the interior door handle which will prevent the latch pin from being pushed in). Said pin to be removed while in flight (emergency access issue). Yes, this means in the left side, then walk around to the right, to help passengers if needed. But I always get in first anyway, do pre-flight, etc., while passengers watch from the shade (or stay in shelter from rain and cold)! Not yet flying so this is all theory! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257322#257322 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Nose strut bend
This is just how the tires wear on the RV-10's. Run them that way and flip them 1/2 way through their life. To keep the subject lines accurate, you may want to start a new thread or change the subject line when taking the thread in a different direction. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote: > > i noticed my vans tires were wearing on the outside . is there a reason > for this and a fix?robert 661G i will check my nose strut for your > anomaly. > On Aug 12, 2009, at 11:25 AM, johngoodman wrote: > >> >> >> Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very subtle >> curve, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it has a >> constant curve to the right. The gap between the straight edge and the >> tube is very small - only about 1/16", but it's definitely there. >> Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is >> straight. Perhaps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of this? >> >> John >> >> -------- >> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine >> & Panel delivery soon. >> N711JG reserved >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Nose strut bend
Date: Aug 12, 2009
I had a nose gear problem as well. It looked like the vertical portion of the nose gear strut was welded about 4 degrees off. I contacted Vans with photos with plumb bob and digital angle finder and they agreed and replaced it. Geoff Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose strut bend --> Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very subtle curve, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it has a constant curve to the right. The gap between the straight edge and the tube is very small - only about 1/16", but it's definitely there. Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is straight. Perhaps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of this? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Sturm und Drang
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
The N52KS Lycoming has breathed fire and made that thing on the front of the airplane spin around for the first time! Yeah hah! Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Sturm und Drang
Date: Aug 12, 2009
congrats! cool how the blades look like they are bent backwards! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Sturm und Drang > The N52KS Lycoming has breathed fire and made that thing on the front of > the airplane spin around for the first time! Yeah hah! > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > 40025 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Nose strut bend
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Sorry about that I wilco in the future Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com On Aug 12, 2009, at 1:14 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > This is just how the tires wear on the RV-10's. Run them that way > and flip them 1/2 way through their life. > > To keep the subject lines accurate, you may want to start a new > thread or change the subject line when taking the thread > in a different direction. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD > > > Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote: >> > >> i noticed my vans tires were wearing on the outside . is there a >> reason for this and a fix?robert 661G i will check my nose strut >> for your anomaly. >> On Aug 12, 2009, at 11:25 AM, johngoodman wrote: >>> > >>> >>> Looking at my untouched nose strut, I happened to notice a very >>> subtle curve, or bend, to it. If you put a straight edge on it, it >>> has a constant curve to the right. The gap between the straight >>> edge and the tube is very small - only about 1/16", but it's >>> definitely there. >>> Looking at the almost completed RV-10 next to me, the tube is >>> straight. Perhaps weight takes it out? Anybody seen or heard of >>> this? >>> >>> John >>> >>> -------- >>> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine >>> & Panel delivery soon. >>> N711JG reserved >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257297#257297 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sturm und Drang
Congrats. Looks like Tim is not worried about the rt side door lock. He's just skipping the doors altogether. Hope you'll be flying soon with that big ol grin. Dr Fred. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord mounts, tubes for tires
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2009
The correct Lord Mount part # is J-3804-28 I bought mine from Herber Aircraft Services, Inc. They had them in stock and shipped the same day @ $88.00 ea. www.herberaircraft.com Ph.310-322-9575 I found them great to deal with. Good luck. Ivan Kristensen Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257384#257384 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Nose Strut / Tires
I wanted to see if we could get some data on the distance between the prop and the ground when the prop is in the vertical position. Why do you ask? I want to know when I start to get some sag in the front rubber shocks. As I have posted I have a shimmy in my main wheels. I talked to Ken and Van at Oshkosh and they both said that shimmy in the main gears is common. Van said that he had it as well and unfortunately there is not much I can do for toe-in. I have talked to a few people about the design of the main gear and it is far from being optimal. Van's words to me was that it is not the optimal design for stiffness but they are inexpensive to manufacture. That is OK and I don't feel like it is a safety issue. Ken did say that you could re-align your gears and use a 7/16" bolt if you wanted to try and change the toe-in. Another factor that changes over time is the sag in the front gear which changes the geometry of the toe-in as the front gear begins to drop. Both the front gear leg sag and the application of the brakes causes more toe-out to occur. Depending on the results we get I may try to replace the front rubber bumpers. I will also call Ken and try to get an engineered measurement. Anyway, it is a number I wish I gathered before my first flight and tracked it every year. Maybe we can decide on what an average number is. Of course the prop will have to be the same size or we could just measure from the center of the spinner down. I will be at the hanger in the next night or two and will make the measurement. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Nose Strut / Tires
Date: Aug 12, 2009
If anyone decides to try and change the toe in give me a call. We did change the toe in on my Glastar and the tires do not wear the outsides as the 10 does. The original procedure for alignment on the Glastar provided 3 degrees per side although the documentation specified procedure should have produced 1/3 degree. We looked at the problem of toe in on the 10. One would have to jack the aircraft and rotate the gear in the socket slightly and re drill for a 7/16" bolt after using a pencil laser for measurement. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 5:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Nose Strut / Tires I wanted to see if we could get some data on the distance between the prop and the ground when the prop is in the vertical position. Why do you ask? I want to know when I start to get some sag in the front rubber shocks. As I have posted I have a shimmy in my main wheels. I talked to Ken and Van at Oshkosh and they both said that shimmy in the main gears is common. Van said that he had it as well and unfortunately there is not much I can do for toe-in. I have talked to a few people about the design of the main gear and it is far from being optimal. Van's words to me was that it is not the optimal design for stiffness but they are inexpensive to manufacture. That is OK and I don't feel like it is a safety issue. Ken did say that you could re-align your gears and use a 7/16" bolt if you wanted to try and change the toe-in. Another factor that changes over time is the sag in the front gear which changes the geometry of the toe-in as the front gear begins to drop. Both the front gear leg sag and the application of the brakes causes more toe-out to occur. Depending on the results we get I may try to replace the front rubber bumpers. I will also call Ken and try to get an engineered measurement. Anyway, it is a number I wish I gathered before my first flight and tracked it every year. Maybe we can decide on what an average number is. Of course the prop will have to be the same size or we could just measure from the center of the spinner down. I will be at the hanger in the next night or two and will make the measurement. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: PLBs
Date: Aug 12, 2009
I have a McMurdo Fastfind with GPS. The lithium battery reached its expiration date. I . have been trying to determine the deterioration of the battery over time. Unable to find the battery versus age graph I bought the new battery good until 4/2015. I measured the voltage of the old battery at 11.92V. The PLB when deployed summons help by locating itself via GPS and the broadcasting the info to a 406Mh satellite over the Atlantic or Pacific and then to Suitland MD SAR. It also broadcasts on 121.5Mh for local VHF ADF equipment. Response time from deployment until notification of SAR is supposed to be about 2 minutes. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Nose Strut / Tires
Date: - - - , 20-
If it helps I remember the Decathlon at 2 degrees toe in and 2 degrees bottom in. ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose Strut / Tires If anyone decides to try and change the toe in give me a call. We did change the toe in on my Glastar and the tires do not wear the outsides as the 10 does. The original procedure for alignment on the Glastar provided 3 degrees per side although the documentation specified procedure should have produced 1/3 degree. We looked at the problem of toe in on the 10. One would have to jack the aircraft and rotate the gear in the socket slightly and re drill for a 7/16" bolt after using a pencil laser for measurement. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 5:08 PM To: RV-10 List Subject: RV10-List: Nose Strut / Tires I wanted to see if we could get some data on the distance between the prop and the ground when the prop is in the vertical position. Why do you ask? I want to know when I start to get some sag in the front rubber shocks. As I have posted I have a shimmy in my main wheels. I talked to Ken and Van at Oshkosh and they both said that shimmy in the main gears is common. Van said that he had it as well and unfortunately there is not much I can do for toe-in. I have talked to a few people about the design of the main gear and it is far from being optimal. Van's words to me was that it is not the optimal design for stiffness but they are inexpensive to manufacture. That is OK and I don't feel like it is a safety issue. Ken did say that you could re-align your gears and use a 7/16" bolt if you wanted to try and change the toe-in. Another factor that changes over time is the sag in the front gear which changes the geometry of the toe-in as the front gear begins to drop. Both the front gear leg sag and the application of the brakes causes more toe-out to occur. Depending on the results we get I may try to replace the front rubber bumpers. I will also call Ken and try to get an engineered measurement. Anyway, it is a number I wish I gathered before my first flight and tracked it every year. Maybe we can decide on what an average number is. Of course the prop will have to be the same size or we could just measure from the center of the spinner down. I will be at the hanger in the next night or two and will make the measurement. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Strut / Tires
David McNeill wrote: > If anyone decides to try and change the toe in give me a call. We did > change the toe in on my Glastar and the tires do not wear the outsides > as the 10 does. The original procedure for alignment on the Glastar > provided 3 degrees per side although the documentation specified > procedure should have produced 1/3 degree. We looked at the problem of > toe in on the 10. One would have to jack the aircraft and rotate the > gear in the socket slightly and re drill for a 7/16" bolt after using a > pencil laser for measurement. David, would you elaborate on the laser part? For those of us that haven't drilled the gear .... what should we do??? Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Nose Strut / Tires
Date: Aug 12, 2009
I will describe the Glastar procedure. To determine the actual toe in we hung the aircraft on jacks and tail stand so that it was level a few inches off the floor. Using a plumb bob we dropped a line from the elevator of the aircraft perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft. We also measured the distance between the outboard faces of the main wheels. At that point we shot a laser from a pencil laser taped to the outboard face of the main wheels to the line below the aft elevator edge. At that point , if toe in/out were zero we would have traced a large rectangle on the floor of the hangar. What we had was a trapezoid where the base (aft ) was 115"(?) and the top was 95"(?). By measuring the height (distance between main gear line and elevator line we could determine the angles at the base and figure the toe in/out. In our case it was toe in. IIRC the base angles were computed to be about 87 degrees which meant that the toe in was 3 degrees. Because the measurements are large , any angular error is reduced. We then (after removing the bolt) rotated the gear leg in the socket and formed a near rectangle on the hangar floor. At that point we clamp the gear legs in the sockets, and proceeded to use a pencil grinder to open the weldment in the direction of the needed adjustment. When sufficient material had been removed we used a upsized drill ream to create d a new hole for a larger bolt. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-liste -server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 7:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose Strut / Tires --> David McNeill wrote: > If anyone decides to try and change the toe in give me a call. We did > change the toe in on my Glastar and the tires do not wear the outsides > as the 10 does. The original procedure for alignment on the Glastar > provided 3 degrees per side although the documentation specified > procedure should have produced 1/3 degree. We looked at the problem of > toe in on the 10. One would have to jack the aircraft and rotate the > gear in the socket slightly and re drill for a 7/16" bolt after using > a pencil laser for measurement. David, would you elaborate on the laser part? For those of us that haven't drilled the gear .... what should we do??? Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Boeing Surplus
Now that Boeing Surplus is gone, is there some place that surpluses out the Boeing tools and stock in the Seattle area? Steve 40212 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Nose Strut / Tires
Date: Aug 12, 2009
I might also add that this procedure was developed under the watchful eye of a retired GM suspension engineer and fellow pilot. The Glastar people continued to insist that their plans and procedure worked properly. Ask any Glastar owner for an evaluation of tire wear -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 7:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose Strut / Tires --> David McNeill wrote: > If anyone decides to try and change the toe in give me a call. We did > change the toe in on my Glastar and the tires do not wear the outsides > as the 10 does. The original procedure for alignment on the Glastar > provided 3 degrees per side although the documentation specified > procedure should have produced 1/3 degree. We looked at the problem of > toe in on the 10. One would have to jack the aircraft and rotate the > gear in the socket slightly and re drill for a 7/16" bolt after using > a pencil laser for measurement. David, would you elaborate on the laser part? For those of us that haven't drilled the gear .... what should we do??? Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2009
Subject: holes in control cable bracket
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Does anyone know the size of the holes in the control cable bracket for the standard throttle, prop, mixture, and alt air controls? Need to paint/label that part now, don't have the cables yet, and the size isn't noted in the plans. Thanks for the help... -Rob #40566 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sturm und Drang
Way to go Tim.... seems like only yesterday for me also..... but Tim,,,, it 's YEE HAH! --- On Wed, 8/12/09, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> Subject: RV10-List: Sturm und Drang Date: Wednesday, August 12, 2009, 11:53 AM The N52KS Lycoming has breathed fire and made that thing on the front of the airplane spin around for the first time!- Yeah hah! Tim Dawson-Townsend 40025 =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door seal info
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would require less install grinding, but still seal the door? Thanks, Frank -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 N46WD Flying RV-8 N84FD final assembly N40 Sky Manor Airport Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Door seal info
I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it. Deems Davis fdombroski wrote: > > Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would require less install grinding, but still seal the door? > > Thanks, > Frank > > -------- > Frank Dombroski > RV-10 N46WD Flying > RV-8 N84FD final assembly > N40 Sky Manor Airport > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Seatbelt countersink
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Hey Eric, The sealtbelt countersink arrived here today from Mike in MN !! Let me know if you still need it and I'll get it off to you tomorrow. If there are others interested, now would be the time to start a new list. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 7:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Seatbelt countersink > > Anyone have a list for the seatbelt countersink? I am just about to the > point where I will need to buy it if I can't get my hands on one. Thanks. > > Eric Kallio > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256434#256434 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: Door seal info
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the flange more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for a 1/4" instead of the 3/16". Just my thoughts. Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it. Deems Davis fdombroski wrote: > > Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would > require less install grinding, but still seal the door? > > Thanks, > Frank > > -------- > Frank Dombroski > RV-10 N46WD Flying > RV-8 N84FD final assembly > N40 Sky Manor Airport > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Interior
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days. I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and close side vents if you are keeping them. They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console. Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Door seal info
Date: Aug 13, 2009
I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock Van's seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger seal? the idea is to get a good seal without needing to do major work to have the doors flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from the flange or anything else, unless it is not large enough, in my case it would have been fine since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals, 1/8th would have worked great for me in retrospect, but it works just fine now with the stock seals. So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure there is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS too much however without needing work. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info > > > Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the > flange > more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange > Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for > a > 1/4" instead of the 3/16". > > > Just my thoughts. > > Geoff Combs > President > Aerosport Modeling & Design > 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway > Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 > 614-834-5227p > 614-834-5230f > www.aerosportmodeling.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info > > > I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent > it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed > material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same > size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it. > > Deems Davis > > fdombroski wrote: >> >> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would >> require less install grinding, but still seal the door? >> >> Thanks, >> Frank >> >> -------- >> Frank Dombroski >> RV-10 N46WD Flying >> RV-8 N84FD final assembly >> N40 Sky Manor Airport >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Crushed oil filter
From: "aviationpro" <bignc2(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2009
After reading your post and reviewing your pics it reminded me of other complaints I have seen regarding oil filters. Just a note - oil filters do not burst or collapse on their own - the chances of that happening are slim to none. There is another issue causing that condition. Here is a link to a gentleman posting on the AOPA forum in which he blames the oil filter for a problem and then goes on to claim how the company was selling defective parts, putting pilots and their passengers in jeopardy and demanding an FAA investigation much like this posting. http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=49420 His mechanic, the overhauler of his engine and all the forum experts told him it was the faulty filter and there was not a problem with his engine. The oil filter manufacturer pleaded with him to look at his lines and evaluate his engine to find the root cause because they knew the filter was not the culprit. Here is his retraction on his false statements about the filter after he found a problem in one of his lines: http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=50026 As for the article regarding oil filters - I have used Kelly filters for 4 years without any issues at all. The fact that Kelly produces a filter that exceeds the same specs with a thinner wall and less media tells me it is superiorly engineered to the other manufacturers. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257538#257538 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Interior
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Here are some smaller pictures on the side panels. We still have some tweaks to make to them. They will cover the rivet line and can be installed very easily. -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257539#257539 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/lf_side_panel_840.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door seal info
Pascal; I had to redo the fiberglass and drop the sill down enough to get the seal to fit. You add more layers to the underside and then grind down the top. I got the pleasure of seeing Deem's work at Osh last week. I really think that the process that he describes on his website and what he has done to the hinge area are as good as we can do with this design. I had a fair door fit before I put the seals on, but then could not close the door as the seal pushed up and took up too much room. Pulling the lip down enough to get it to seal fixed the problem. I don't have the gaps filled around the hinges and do not seem to have any significant water or wind thru the gap. I wish I had started out with the seals from Mc Master Carr and had them at the time of initial door fitting. It would have been a whole lot easier to do before I had the wings on and had to keep all the dust out of the avionics. Dr Fred Pascal wrote: > > I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock > Van's seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger > seal? the idea is to get a good seal without needing to do major work > to have the doors flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from > the flange or anything else, unless it is not large enough, in my case > it would have been fine since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals, > 1/8th would have worked great for me in retrospect, but it works just > fine now with the stock seals. > So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure > there is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS > too much however without needing work. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info > >> >> >> Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the >> flange >> more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange >> Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my >> flanges for a >> 1/4" instead of the 3/16". >> >> >> Just my thoughts. >> >> Geoff Combs >> President >> Aerosport Modeling & Design >> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway >> Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 >> 614-834-5227p >> 614-834-5230f >> www.aerosportmodeling.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis >> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info >> >> >> >> I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent >> it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed >> material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same >> size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it. >> >> Deems Davis >> >> fdombroski wrote: >>> >>> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would >>> require less install grinding, but still seal the door? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Frank >>> >>> -------- >>> Frank Dombroski >>> RV-10 N46WD Flying >>> RV-8 N84FD final assembly >>> N40 Sky Manor Airport >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Interior
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward for those who have the goal of a car like interior. ------Original Message------ From: Geoff Combs ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days. I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and close side vents if you are keeping them. They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console. Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Door seal info
Date: Aug 13, 2009
Hi Pascal The McMaster Carr seals require that you grind down the canopy door flanges until they are parallel to the door. The seal fit on this flange with the bulb against the door. This gives a great seal. I don't see how you can get a good result by fitting the doors first and then fitting the seals. Any kind of seal will impact the door geometry. As I understand it, the preferred course of action is to fit the doors with seals in place and then use epoxy etc to give a flush fit all the way around, feathering out to give a smooth transition between the door and the canopy. Doing this before the seals are installed just means more rework. Today I spent several hours getting my second door to fit (the first worked out very nicely right off the bat). Ultimately I had to shim the two delrin door blocks so as to provide a bit more space between the door and the seals. Now the doors close easily although I will need a pull strap in the center of the door to pull the door into the opening. A couple of pounds of pull in the center of the door is all that I need. I don't like the idea of using the door handle to pull the door closed as it doesn't seem like it was designed to take that kind of twisting pull. That's just my $0.02 though. Cheers Les #40643 - fitting doors & seals -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal Sent: August-13-09 2:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock Van's seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger seal? the idea is to get a good seal without needing to do major work to have the doors flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from the flange or anything else, unless it is not large enough, in my case it would have been fine since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals, 1/8th would have worked great for me in retrospect, but it works just fine now with the stock seals. So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure there is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS too much however without needing work. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info > > > Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the > flange > more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange > Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for > a > 1/4" instead of the 3/16". > > > Just my thoughts. > > Geoff Combs > President > Aerosport Modeling & Design > 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway > Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 > 614-834-5227p > 614-834-5230f > www.aerosportmodeling.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info > > > I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent > it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed > material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same > size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it. > > Deems Davis > > fdombroski wrote: >> >> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would >> require less install grinding, but still seal the door? >> >> Thanks, >> Frank >> >> -------- >> Frank Dombroski >> RV-10 N46WD Flying >> RV-8 N84FD final assembly >> N40 Sky Manor Airport >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: RV10 Interior
Agreed. Geoff had a full set of samples on hand, and they seem to be of significantly higher quality than the stuff production aircraft used in the '60s and '70s. Nice finish, solid feel, well designed. If I ever get my QB kit from Vans, that is the way I plan on going. Kelly Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward for those who have the goal of a car like interior. > > > ------Original Message------ > From: Geoff Combs > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior > Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM > > > Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days. > I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as > well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and close side vents if you are keeping them. > They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console. > > Geoff > > -------- > Geoff Combs > RV-10 QB N829GW > Finishing > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg > > > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV10 Interior
Date: Aug 13, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Major step! Beyond anything any RV-10 builder has done to date. It was fun to watch from the sideline as guys scampered over and Geoff teased everyone with Xmas in July - "Wisconsin style" as he removed multiple items from the multiple storage compartments in his land yacht, at Camp Condrey. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 3:35 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward for those who have the goal of a car like interior. ------Original Message------ From: Geoff Combs ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days. I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and close side vents if you are keeping them. They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console. Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10. http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint scheme! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Very nice paint job. Nice looking plane. Robert Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com On Aug 14, 2009, at 8:03 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey=99s RV-10. > > > http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# > > > Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint > scheme! > > > Bob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Hi Bob That is a very nice -01 you have. Every time I see another -10 like yours, I start getting drool marks on my monitor. Looking at your panel, I see that it has an interesting looking set of annuciator lights. Was this something you built or is it available online? Cheers Les #40643 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: August-14-09 7:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10. http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# <http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10> Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint scheme! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
Date: Aug 14, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Very nice, Mr. Condrey!!! I'm looking forward to seeing her at Oshkosh next summer! Phil From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com] Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10. http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# <http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10> Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint scheme! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Mr. Leffler - thank you for the timely sharing of Doug's photography. Susan - Remarkable selection of color and graphics. Your efforts and the c ollaboration with Craig @ Scheme Designers raises the bar for the rest of u s (800 strong). The finish is worthy of every penny and a lesson is in the re for those who cut such a valuable corner on the way to completion. The R V-10 deserves such a finish. As I told Bob. WOW! Thanks again for your efforts at Camp Condrey - OSH '09. John From: Bob Leffler Sent: Fri 8/14/2009 6:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10. http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint scheme! Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Bob your plane looks great. And I would like to say thanks again for Oshkosh. Laurel and I had a great time. Geoff Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 10:23 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online Very nice, Mr. Condrey!!! I'm looking forward to seeing her at Oshkosh next summer! Phil From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com] Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online Doug just posted these fantastic photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10. http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10# <http://picasaweb.google.com/VansAirForce/N442PM_RV10> Bob, you can tell Susan she did a great job on selecting the paint scheme! Bob http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: VA-189 fuel servo inlet hose fitting question
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Those who participated in the non-Van hose "group buy" a while back may want to take note... Can someone tell me if the stock Vans VA-189 hose shown on FF4-3 comes with an integrated 90 degree fitting? My non-Vans hose is straight through and would require an extra fitting to connect properly. It may be possible to find a hose with an integrated fitting (preferred), but if not you'd have to figure out what type and where to get the proper fitting. Thanks in advance for any replies, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257657#257657 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Subject: Re: Crushed oil filter
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Here's the statement from the AOPA forum: ************************************************************* Regarding my prior post, "Oil Filter Failure", where my Kelly Aerospace oil filter burst open on the ramp, I have a solution to report. It was NOT the oil filter. My A&P sliced open the hoses that went to my ADC filter adapter and there's a nice, big rubber flap in one hose that was overlooked when the hoses were made up. The in/out orientation was correct when it blew, but it is likely that hose-b got swapped with hose-a when the new engine was installed, therefore the oil direction in the defective hose was against the flap. There had been 4 previous flights where this could have closed, so I'm just thankful it happened on the ramp. I wanted to make it clear that it was not a fault of the oil filter. ******************************************************************************************* FWIW, I can add that you should check all new hoses really well. I've seen several examples of that exact failure, even one from a professional hose shop. A flap in the hose is almost impossible to detect unless you're specifically looking for it, and it's relatively easy to make even using the right tools. -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Subject: Re: VA-189 fuel servo inlet hose fitting question
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Yes, this was mentioned on this<http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/20Engine/hose.html>page. http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/20Engine/hose.html I had excluded this hose on my hose order since Mattituck includes this hose but also with the straight fitting. http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/10FFwd/FF3c.html I was able to get a 90 degree AN-AN fitting from AN Plumbing.com. See below. http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/10FFwd/FF3e.html William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 12:47 PM, jayb wrote: > > Those who participated in the non-Van hose "group buy" a while back may > want to take note... > > Can someone tell me if the stock Vans VA-189 hose shown on FF4-3 comes with > an integrated 90 degree fitting? > > My non-Vans hose is straight through and would require an extra fitting to > connect properly. It may be possible to find a hose with an integrated > fitting (preferred), but if not you'd have to figure out what type and where > to get the proper fitting. > > Thanks in advance for any replies, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257657#257657 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-189 fuel servo inlet hose fitting question
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
I called Mattituck this morning and after some back and forth, they said maybe they'd trade my unused straight hose that came with the Silverhawk system purchase FROM them to one that had an integrated 90 fitting. Several phone calls later, they said too bad you didn't buy an engine from us, else we'd trade your hose out for another. However, we'd be more than happy to sell you a brand new hose for $290. How generous of them... No thanks. Thanks for the link in the previous reply. Here's another Aeroquip fitting from Summit Racing. It's aluminum, not steel however. Don't know which would be better for the inlet side of the injector servo. Any opinions? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM3155/ Regards, Jay P.S. I have an extra VA-189 straight hose from Precision with fire proof jacket. If interested, contact me offline. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257696#257696 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: don't buy baffle fasteners
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
These were a waste of money as the screws are much too short to fit through both baffle and black seal material... Twice as long would have been about right. Maybe they're useful elsewhere... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/bafflefastener.php Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257702#257702 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Photos of Bob Condrey's RV-10 are online
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Thanks for the kind words from those that have posted online and also those that sent emails. Plane is now back home in its rightful location! Les: the annunciators (above the radio stack and just above & left of the starter switch) are Honeywell AML-45s. Individually they are about 1.1" wide by .3" high and there is mounting hardware available to cluster them together. They are available with red, green and yellow lenses and are deadface design (can't see anything if they aren't lit). I printed the actual inserts using overhead viewfoils in a laser printer (white on black background). Scott Schmidt also has these in his plane. They are available online, I used http://www.alliedelec.com/. > Looking at your panel, I see that it has an interesting looking set of > annuciator lights. Was this something you built or is it available online? Bob N442PM Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257704#257704 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Oil door hidden hinge
Well, I screwed up the FAB and have to re-order the top plate so on to the oil door... I have the hidden hinge and am ready to attach to cowl. But I'm concerned about what fastener to use to go through the honey combed strips surrounding the oil door cutout. There seems to be thin honeycomb throughout the cowl but there is a strip of slightly thicker honeycomb around the edge of the cowl and surrounding the oil door cutout. After drilling it, It became clear it is 'hollow'. So I'm concerned that rivets will not work well. I'm thinking something like 4-40 flat head screws (with the heads overlayed with glass. Or perhaps I need to fill the honeycomb with flock then drill. Or cut it out and fill. I think the standard door hinges are attached where there isn't any honeycomb, inside the square of honecomb surrounding the cutout. Any thoughts? Bill "FWF" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2009
I removed the core and layed up solid epoxy and glass. Be careful as the outer skin is very thin. Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257724#257724 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2009
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Good instincts, Bill. Replace the honeycomb with flox/resin to make a hard point and it should last forever. Dave On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 5:48 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson < MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote: > MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> > > Well, I screwed up the FAB and have to re-order the top plate so on to the > oil door... > > I have the hidden hinge and am ready to attach to cowl. But I'm concerned > about what fastener to use to go through the honey combed strips > surrounding the oil door cutout. > > There seems to be thin honeycomb throughout the cowl but there is a strip > of slightly thicker honeycomb around the edge of the cowl and surrounding > the oil door cutout. After drilling it, It became clear it is 'hollow'. > > So I'm concerned that rivets will not work well. I'm thinking something > like 4-40 flat head screws (with the heads overlayed with glass. Or perhaps > I need to fill the honeycomb with flock then drill. Or cut it out and fill. > > I think the standard door hinges are attached where there isn't any > honeycomb, inside the square of honecomb surrounding the cutout. > > Any thoughts? > > Bill "FWF" Watson > > -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternator belt alignment
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I was putting on my alternator today and find that the belt is misaligned by about 1/3 of the belt width to the belt groove on the engine. I have a Aerosport engine and the stock PLane Power alternator has any one else seen this problem? Or is this standard and leave it alone. I would think they need to be perfectly aligned. Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257779#257779 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternator belt alignment
From: "greghale" <ghale5224(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
My Plane Power alternator pulley did not align with th ring gear pulley groove. I swapped ends with the alternator bracket and that corrected the problem. I did however have to make new spacers on the bracket to hold the alternator in position. I am using the dual groove ring gear for the air conditioning compressor. Greg... -------- Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH www.nwacaptain.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257781#257781 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Subject: Garmin 296 $350 with Gizmo
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Garmin 296 for sale. I bought it new, and it works great in the air and in the car. Lots of accessories: AirGizmo panel mount, car bean bag mount, yoke mount, external antenna, external speaker/power cord, 128M data card for driving that covers about half the U.S. at a time, AC power, owner's manual, more. $350 plus shipping -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How long to build an RV10
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Alternator belt alignment
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Mystery is solved. I some how had turned the ring gear pulley groove plate one stud off and was just hand tighten it. Once I got it holes in the correct alignment everything was good. All is good and prop is on. Thanks Geoff Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1 Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 10:06 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternator belt alignment --> I was putting on my alternator today and find that the belt is misaligned by about 1/3 of the belt width to the belt groove on the engine. I have a Aerosport engine and the stock PLane Power alternator has any one else seen this problem? Or is this standard and leave it alone. I would think they need to be perfectly aligned. Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257779#257779 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
YOU shouldn't need to get into the honeycomb areas of the top cowl to attach a hidden hinge here is a link to some pictures I hope will help you understand the process. http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_4268126#imageID=77306227 This hidden hinge and the door latches are from Non Stop Aviation Regards, Ivan Kristensen #40838 FF and wiring Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257821#257821 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296 $350 with Gizmo
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sold. Thanks for the calls--Dave On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 8:35 AM, Dave Saylor < dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> wrote: > Garmin 296 for sale. I bought it new, and it works great in the air and in > the car. Lots of accessories: AirGizmo panel mount, car bean bag mount, > yoke mount, external antenna, external speaker/power cord, 128M data card > for driving that covers about half the U.S. at a time, AC power, owner's > manual, more. > > $350 plus shipping > > -- > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > * > > * > > -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge - OT
Ivan, I see you are an RC Pattern flyer. You may know my brother Glen. I don't think he went to the Nats this year but he won the 07 Masters and I think he did 2nd last year. I've got a few backyard flyers here in the shop but can't find the time to fool around much. Bill "now ready for the oil door" Watson ivankris wrote: > > YOU shouldn't need to get into the honeycomb areas of the top cowl to attach a hidden hinge here is a link to some pictures I hope will help you understand the process. http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_4268126#imageID=77306227 > This hidden hinge and the door latches are from Non Stop Aviation > > Regards, > > Ivan Kristensen > > #40838 > > FF and wiring > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257821#257821 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Was this a QB fuse and wings? Oh poop=2C I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 Everyone that know me asks=2C "are you done yet?" I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two people...that's w hat he said. John > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat=2C 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV1 0? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder=2C with modest m echanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training fro m the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification=2C I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site an d sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 15, 2009
The correct answer to "are you done yet" is" I will be done on Tuesday". Some Tuesday some month some year. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:07 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 Was this a QB fuse and wings? Oh poop, I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 Everyone that know me asks, "are you done yet?" I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two people...that's what he said. John > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
Date: - - - , 20-
I think all of the newbies who have the time should by the slow build. I am finishing section 29 this week and started the SB kit Feb 3 09. I don't know how long the wait is right now for the QB kits but it seems like it's just as fast to build the sb. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez To: RV 10 group Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:06 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 Was this a QB fuse and wings? Oh poop, I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 Everyone that know me asks, "are you done yet?" I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two people...that's what he said. John > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
There are differing opinions as to where it should go. The problem with putting it in the line to the spider is that line normally is mostly vertical, and there is very little horizontal line to insert the sender. EI, which I think uses the same sender recommends between the mechanical fuel pump and the fuel servo, unless it is a Continental time injection that returns fuel to the tank full time. It comes down to where it will conveniently fit, and have a straight, horizontal line/hose for several inches before the sending unit. .1-.2 gph fluctuation is pretty normal, more than that may be a problem. The connections between the sending unit and the instrument can be an issue. On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 1:24 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? > I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. > Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in > the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow > Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the > meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the > distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue > on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting > location. > I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any > attempts to improve or correct the situation. > > Thanks > > Deems Davis N519PJ > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were having the same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from anyone that mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize the impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have some data since he's flying now. Thanks, Bob #40684 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I think you need to put things in perspective. Everyone thinks that if you have a digital reading that's the last word. It used to be analog needles and a printed scale on the dial. Fluctuations occurred all the time but measurements were not precise enough to matter or be discernible. A variety of things including varying temps or pressures can cause a sensor to output differently. We are measuring milli and micro values of electricity. It is quite possible that the fluctuations are within the accuracy of the sensor but the measurement of the volt or pressure or gph on a digital gauge pretends to be more precise. That said: my fuel flow bounces around by .1 to .3 with the engine driven pump. Turn on the boost pump and see the same mixture setting show many gallons more flow. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I'm in Chapter 33 at the moment and at 1044 hours of time (2.5 years duration). Standard build all the way. I suspect I'm probably about half way done. Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 I think all of the newbies who have the time should by the slow build. I am finishing section 29 this week and started the SB kit Feb 3 09. I don't know how long the wait is right now for the QB kits but it seems like it's just as fast to build the sb. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Gonzalez <mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:06 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 Was this a QB fuse and wings? Oh poop, I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 Everyone that know me asks, "are you done yet?" I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two people...that's what he said. John > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Yes, this is the consensus of AFS, EI, Airflow et al. For this reason as well as easier access to the transducer, I have moved my fuel flow transducer from the tunnel to the servo output port. With some additional parts from AN Plumbing<http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=&dept=Steel>, I was able to put it there without any change to the hoses. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 4:24 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? > I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. > Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in > the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow > Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the > meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the > distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue > on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting > location. > I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any > attempts to improve or correct the situation. > > Thanks > > Deems Davis N519PJ > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I did a slow build. Only recorded the time for the sections from Van's. Didn't record the time for wiring design, instrument panel cutting and install, etc. In months it took 29 months and 25 days from receiving the emp kit to first flight. About 99.9% of the work was at home. Unless you live on the airport, when you move to the airport, progress will come to a screeching snails pace. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257863#257863 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I have no problems following AFS's recommendations as others here have also noted. The engine shop provided me with the new hoses. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257864#257864 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_3207_913.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
Thanks for the pics. Yes, I thought that's what I would be doing but I've already cut too big a hole and am planning a slightly larger door and door opening. Note to self; cut a small hole then enlarge as more is learned. Nice site and pics. Thanks! vankris wrote: > > YOU shouldn't need to get into the honeycomb areas of the top cowl to attach a hidden hinge here is a link to some pictures I hope will help you understand the process. http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_4268126#imageID=77306227 > This hidden hinge and the door latches are from Non Stop Aviation > > Regards, > > Ivan Kristensen > > #40838 > > FF and wiring > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257821#257821 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I too get variations using the stock location. In a previous aircraft I had it located between the servo and the spider with good success, but as pointed out, I did not have digital readout on it. I am tempted to move mine, but would really like to get input from those who have found a rock steady location. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Artex ME406 - are they shipping yet?
I have one backordered at AS and wondering if they are shipping from anywhere yet. Hoping to install it before closing up the battery bay. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
I'm coming up in my 36th month after starting my build at Ron Alexander's builders assist shop. Did a QB and have an ideal building situation so I'm able to do something on most days. But I'm far from being a dedicated builder. I don't have any idea how many hours I've spent. If things go well, I hope to be flying 12 months from now having done my own panel and own paint. We'll see. Bill "FWF" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 15, 2009
On the Matronics web site Matt used to sell a small spherical device to put in the line to dampen out pulsations to improve accuracy or minimize disturbances. Sort of like a "water hammer" shock absorber put in your water line at home. Might be worth a try... See: http://www.matronics.com/fuelchec/dampener.html Richard Bibb 972-771-2598 972-835-5979 mobile -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations I too get variations using the stock location. In a previous aircraft I had it located between the servo and the spider with good success, but as pointed out, I did not have digital readout on it. I am tempted to move mine, but would really like to get input from those who have found a rock steady location. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I found photo's of Rob Hickman's installation: http://lh6.ggpht.com/RobHickmanAFS/SNltW4FJUII/AAAAAAAAAQo/sX7EW06y0Zg/s800/ Fuel%20Flow%20Transducer.jpg Gary Blankenbiller's at: http://www.wingscc.com/n2gb/FF1-Engine/100_3207.jpg Looking at the install procedures for the EI FT-60 on EI's site (which is used by several of the EFIS vendors): 1. Find a convenient location between the Fuel Servo and Flow Divider and away from any hot exhaust pipes to suspend the Fuel Flow Transducer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 7:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations I too get variations using the stock location. In a previous aircraft I had it located between the servo and the spider with good success, but as pointed out, I did not have digital readout on it. I am tempted to move mine, but would really like to get input from those who have found a rock steady location. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
FF is definitely more stable measured between the servo and the spider. I moved my sender because of the erroneous reading with the boost pump on, and I'm happy with the results. I do see very minor fluctuations now and then, but I suspect that with an analog instrument, you would never notice. It's just that digital instruments are so...digital. On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 4:25 PM, gary wrote: > > I too get variations using the stock location. In a previous aircraft I > had > it located between the servo and the spider with good success, but as > pointed out, I did not have digital readout on it. I am tempted to move > mine, but would really like to get input from those who have found a rock > steady location. > > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > > > Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? > I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. > Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted > in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow > Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of > the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the > distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some > dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about > mounting location. > I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and > any attempts to improve or correct the situation. > > Thanks > > Deems Davis N519PJ > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > -- Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door seal info
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
I am going to order both sizes, and will report back in a couple of weeks if the 1/8" bulb works out. The flange size is the same. The stock seals are not doing the job, so back to the dust buster... Thanks all. -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 N46WD Flying RV-8 N84FD final assembly N40 Sky Manor Airport Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257912#257912 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge - OT
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Aug 15, 2009
Glen Watson? No I don't think I know him. This year is the first time back to the US Pattern Nationals in about 10 years so I have been out of the "Pattern" loop for a few years. Building the RV-10 is taking most of my time these days but I still find some time to go the the R/C field now and then. Ivan Kristensen #40838 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257916#257916 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 16, 2009
IMHO it takes as long as it takes. The variables of: builder experience, fast/slow build, amount of contracted work (paint, avionics, interior, builder assist etc.) personal situation, $$, retired/working full time are so broad that there is no good answer. I would suggest that a builder proceed at whatever is a comfortable pace as his or her circumstances allow. Too fast risks burn-out, mistakes, and family issues. Rather than set deadlines or unrealistic goals try to do something or a regular schedule and before you know it a completed airplane will be sitting on the ramp ready to be flown. Keep the pace at an enjoyable level without obsessing. Our first project, an RV-4 took (classified # years over 10), I was working two flying jobs and was away from the project often. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. The second project, a slow build -10 was finished in about 4 years. This time the kit was way more advanced, I was retired, and the avionics was sub-contracted. As for actual hours? Probably pretty close to what Mike reported. The most important thing is to have fun doing it. Tailwinds Dick Sipp RV4 sold, RV-10 N110DV 170 hours > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 16, 2009
Hi We are the guilty ones. We built an RV10 in 6 months. It sounds unbelievable but you have to remember that my husband took a break from building houses and was working on it full time with another guy for that time. We also had another guy helping and supervising quality etc (he had built an RV7 and just loved being around helping). All in all it took over 2000 hours to build but with 2 guys going from 8 to 5:30 and one pottering over the weekend and evenings and another helping out and giving advice. We had a great team of aviation specialists who were on hand to come and look at things we weren't sure of, or just offer advice. The door was open to CAA all the time so that everyone new what was going on. It is a family plane and we wanted to make sure it was safe. Sarah ZK RVT On 16/08/2009, at 7:06 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Was this a QB fuse and wings? > > Oh poop, I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready > to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 > > Everyone that know me asks, "are you done yet?" > > I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two > people...that's what he said. > > John > > > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build > an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, > with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. > I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally > Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly > carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 > to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP > certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of > builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human > hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours > on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > > > -------- > > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
Well Said Richard.- It seems each build-will be a little different.- In my case, I had no aviation knowledge or experience, including ZERO fligh t time...... but I did have some metal working experience, and enough smart s to know that in order to have a completed project, it boiled down to one main thing..... putting in the hours.- I logged every hour on the project , including anyone who helped even for an hour, and even logged the non pro ductive time when I-might have been just thinking about what to do next.. (luckily, those hours were not logged seperately)- .... the air worthine ss cert was issued 2.5 years after receipt of the emp boxes, and I had logg ed approximately 5,000 hours.- Ok, it was more than 5,000.... 5,229. But I have a storage spot for the longer golf clubs, cold air induction, an d other than paint, did everything myself.- Although in hindsite, I would hire certain things out if I did this again! And for what it's worth, it's one of the most satisfying and fun projects I 've ever done. Which, of course, is why I finished the airplane 2 months before completing the training for my private pilot license. Don McDonald #40636 Flying - 65 hours - and headed for Van's Flyin the 28th. - --- On Sat, 8/15/09, richard sipp wrote: From: richard sipp <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 Date: Saturday, August 15, 2009, 9:03 PM #yiv750573731 .hmmessage P { PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TO P:0px;} #yiv750573731 { FONT-FAMILY:Verdana;FONT-SIZE:10pt;} IMHO it takes as long as it takes.- The variables of: builder experience, fast/slow build, amount of contracted work (paint, avionics, interior, bui lder assist etc.) personal situation, $$, retired/working full time are so broad that there is no good answer.- - I would suggest that a builder proceed at whatever is a comfortable pace as his or her circumstances allow.- Too fast risks burn-out, mistakes, and family issues.- Rather than set deadlines or unrealistic goals try to do something or a regular schedule and before you know it a completed airplane will be sitting on the ramp ready to be flown. Keep the pace at an enjoyable level without obsessing. - Our first project, an RV-4 took (classified # years over 10), I was working two flying jobs and was away from the project often. That's my story and I 'm stickin' to it. The second project, a slow build -10 was finished in about 4 years.- This time the kit was way more advanced, I was retired, and the avionics was su b-contracted. - As for actual hours?- Probably pretty close to what Mike reported. - The most important thing is to have fun doing it. - Tailwinds Dick Sipp RV4 sold, RV-10 N110DV 170 hours - > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build an RV1 0? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, with modest mec hanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR . I logged my build hours fairly carefully for all 32 months of the build p rocess. Starting on 1/3/07 to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with F AA EXP certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of b uilder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human hours of pla n study and build. This does not include the many hours on this site and se nding/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which can assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If the accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. John #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were having the same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from anyone that mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize the impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have some data since he's flying now. Thanks, Bob #40684 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
I agree there is a proven improvement with the forward location and with Matt's ball (which btw would never fit for me in my limited space) however I remind the group the flip side to this. A while back Tim Olson and the Grumpy General, two people I respect, mentioned that there is a brief time the pump is actually even on, take off and landing. The time it actually caused an issue was rather brief and played a minor issue in the total scheme of things. >From a part of the e-mail by Tim, written last January- " While I do see the increase in fuel flow, just like you do, with mine installed in the stock location, it doesn't cause me any headaches. I only use the fuel boost for maybe 60 seconds during takeoff, and even on landing if I do, it's only for about 60 seconds again....just that timeframe that I'm under about 500' AGL If you only use it a couple minutes during the flight, it won't change those readings much at all. I've consistently been accurate to within about .1-.2 gallons over a 40-45 gallon flight, so it's just not worth worrying about. In over 400 hours I've never had a fuel fill up that had any noticeable amount of difference over what the totalizer told me I should be adding." By all means consider moving the location to the front, especially if you haven't done the install already per the plans, but for those who already have the sensor in place, think about this before you make a modification from the Van's plans- new hoses?, new setups?.. ask yourself with this information if it's worth the effort? Just bringing a difference perspective for anyone who worried about this, as I did initially. Tim may have changed his mind on this, if so Tim please advise. Pascal #40720 -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:45 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > > Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which can > assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If the > accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of > fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. > > > John > #40600 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler > Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > > > Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were having > the > same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from anyone > that > mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize > the > impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. > > My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have > some > data since he's flying now. > > Thanks, > > Bob > #40684 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > > > Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? > I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. > Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted > in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow > > Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location of > the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and the > distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some > dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about > mounting location. > I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and > any attempts to improve or correct the situation. > > Thanks > > Deems Davis N519PJ > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
Nope, I'm still very happy. As far as access to the sender goes, I've never had reason to touch it since it was first wired in. It works plenty well for me and I can usually plan on the reading being dead on when I refuel. Tim On Aug 16, 2009, at 11:44 AM, "Pascal" wrote: > > I agree there is a proven improvement with the forward location and > with Matt's ball (which btw would never fit for me in my limited > space) however I remind the group the flip side to this. A while > back Tim Olson and the Grumpy General, two people I respect, > mentioned that there is a brief time the pump is actually even on, > take off and landing. The time it actually caused an issue was > rather brief and played a minor issue in the total scheme of things. >> From a part of the e-mail by Tim, written last January- " While I >> do see the > increase in fuel flow, just like you do, with mine installed in the > stock location, it doesn't cause me any headaches. I only use the > fuel boost for maybe 60 seconds during takeoff, and even on landing > if I do, it's only for about 60 seconds again....just that timeframe > that I'm under about 500' AGL If you only use it a couple minutes > during the flight, it won't change those readings much at all. I've > consistently been accurate to within about .1-.2 gallons over a > 40-45 gallon flight, so it's just not worth worrying about. In over > 400 hours I've never had a fuel fill up that had any noticeable > amount of difference over what the totalizer told me I should be > adding." > By all means consider moving the location to the front, especially > if you haven't done the install already per the plans, but for those > who already have the sensor in place, think about this before you > make a modification from the Van's plans- new hoses?, new setups?.. > ask yourself with this information if it's worth the effort? > Just bringing a difference perspective for anyone who worried about > this, as I did initially. > > Tim may have changed his mind on this, if so Tim please advise. > > Pascal > #40720 > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:45 AM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > >> >> Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which >> can >> assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If the >> accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of >> fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. >> >> >> John >> #40600 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob >> Leffler >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were >> having >> the >> same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from >> anyone >> that >> mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize >> the >> impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. >> >> My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have >> some >> data since he's flying now. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob >> #40684 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems >> Davis >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? >> I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. >> Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter >> mounted >> in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ >> Airflow >> >> Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the >> location of >> the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and >> the >> distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some >> dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about >> mounting location. >> I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings >> and >> any attempts to improve or correct the situation. >> >> Thanks >> >> Deems Davis N519PJ >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How long to build an RV10
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
And at the other end of the spectrum, I built my flat pack kits, all avionics and wiring, engine installation, paint etc entirely solo (with very occasional help from bucking partners) in ~4500hrs in just on 5 years. The only outsourced item was the seat upholstery and some extra help with the final fuse paint. Professional Engineer (Software and Electronic Systems), but never so much as changed the oil in a car before hand. Would I do it again? In an instant - the journey was a most rewarding experience!! Should anyone ever believe the 2000 hrs over 2 years advertising malarkey - never!!! Cheers, Ron VH-XRM, grounded in Oz while I move the magnetometer to the wingtip -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil & Sarah Colliver Sent: Sunday, 16 August 2009 2:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 Hi We are the guilty ones. We built an RV10 in 6 months. It sounds unbelievable but you have to remember that my husband took a break from building houses and was working on it full time with another guy for that time. We also had another guy helping and supervising quality etc (he had built an RV7 and just loved being around helping). All in all it took over 2000 hours to build but with 2 guys going from 8 to 5:30 and one pottering over the weekend and evenings and another helping out and giving advice. We had a great team of aviation specialists who were on hand to come and look at things we weren't sure of, or just offer advice. The door was open to CAA all the time so that everyone new what was going on. It is a family plane and we wanted to make sure it was safe. Sarah ZK RVT On 16/08/2009, at 7:06 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > Was this a QB fuse and wings? > > Oh poop, I am at 1900 hrs with a QB fuse and wings and about ready > to put the engine on and do the cowl. Started in 2004 > > Everyone that know me asks, "are you done yet?" > > I know a guy who said he built one in six months with two > people...that's what he said. > > John > > > Subject: RV10-List: How long to build an RV10 > > From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net > > Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:39:47 -0700 > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > > > > > A big question that newbees have is how long does it take to build > an RV10? Well I have a pretty good answer. I am a novice builder, > with modest mechanical skills. I was motivated to build a QB myself. > I took training from the excellent empenage build class (Wally > Anderson) at Synergy in Eugene OR. I logged my build hours fairly > carefully for all 32 months of the build process. Starting on 1/3/07 > to Thursday when it was 100% ready to fly with FAA EXP > certification, I logged 2600 hours of my own time and 307 hours of > builder assist and assistance time. Total investment 2907 human > hours of plan study and build. This does not include the many hours > on this site and sending/receiving e-mails from fellow builders. > > > > -------- > > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257815#257815 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > DISCLAIMER:--------------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
I notice fluctuations while I am trying to adjust LOP. Like Tim, I can live with the change during the operation of the boost pump, but the LOP adjustment is more irritating. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 2:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Nope, I'm still very happy. As far as access to the sender goes, I've never had reason to touch it since it was first wired in. It works plenty well for me and I can usually plan on the reading being dead on when I refuel. Tim On Aug 16, 2009, at 11:44 AM, "Pascal" wrote: > > I agree there is a proven improvement with the forward location and > with Matt's ball (which btw would never fit for me in my limited > space) however I remind the group the flip side to this. A while > back Tim Olson and the Grumpy General, two people I respect, > mentioned that there is a brief time the pump is actually even on, > take off and landing. The time it actually caused an issue was > rather brief and played a minor issue in the total scheme of things. >> From a part of the e-mail by Tim, written last January- " While I >> do see the > increase in fuel flow, just like you do, with mine installed in the > stock location, it doesn't cause me any headaches. I only use the > fuel boost for maybe 60 seconds during takeoff, and even on landing > if I do, it's only for about 60 seconds again....just that timeframe > that I'm under about 500' AGL If you only use it a couple minutes > during the flight, it won't change those readings much at all. I've > consistently been accurate to within about .1-.2 gallons over a > 40-45 gallon flight, so it's just not worth worrying about. In over > 400 hours I've never had a fuel fill up that had any noticeable > amount of difference over what the totalizer told me I should be > adding." > By all means consider moving the location to the front, especially > if you haven't done the install already per the plans, but for those > who already have the sensor in place, think about this before you > make a modification from the Van's plans- new hoses?, new setups?.. > ask yourself with this information if it's worth the effort? > Just bringing a difference perspective for anyone who worried about > this, as I did initially. > > Tim may have changed his mind on this, if so Tim please advise. > > Pascal > #40720 > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:45 AM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > >> >> Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which >> can >> assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If the >> accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of >> fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. >> >> >> John >> #40600 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob >> Leffler >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were >> having >> the >> same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from >> anyone >> that >> mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize >> the >> impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. >> >> My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have >> some >> data since he's flying now. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob >> #40684 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems >> Davis >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? >> I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. >> Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter >> mounted >> in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ >> Airflow >> >> Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the >> location of >> the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo and >> the >> distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some >> dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about >> mounting location. >> I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings >> and >> any attempts to improve or correct the situation. >> >> Thanks >> >> Deems Davis N519PJ >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
Same for me. And on hot days if the engine driven pump pressure falls too low, I use the electric fuel pump to keep the pressure up until I get to altitude. Totalizer and fuel used consistently accurate. grumpy N184JM On Aug 16, 2009, at 2:18 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Nope, I'm still very happy. As far as access to the sender goes, > I've never had reason to touch it since it was first wired in. It > works plenty well for me and I can usually plan on the reading being > dead on when I refuel. > Tim > > > On Aug 16, 2009, at 11:44 AM, "Pascal" > wrote: > >> >> I agree there is a proven improvement with the forward location and >> with Matt's ball (which btw would never fit for me in my limited >> space) however I remind the group the flip side to this. A while >> back Tim Olson and the Grumpy General, two people I respect, >> mentioned that there is a brief time the pump is actually even on, >> take off and landing. The time it actually caused an issue was >> rather brief and played a minor issue in the total scheme of things. >>> From a part of the e-mail by Tim, written last January- " While I >>> do see the >> increase in fuel flow, just like you do, with mine installed in the >> stock location, it doesn't cause me any headaches. I only use the >> fuel boost for maybe 60 seconds during takeoff, and even on landing >> if I do, it's only for about 60 seconds again....just that >> timeframe that I'm under about 500' AGL If you only use it a couple >> minutes during the flight, it won't change those readings much at >> all. I've consistently been accurate to within about .1-.2 gallons >> over a 40-45 gallon flight, so it's just not worth worrying about. >> In over 400 hours I've never had a fuel fill up that had any >> noticeable amount of difference over what the totalizer told me I >> should be adding." >> By all means consider moving the location to the front, especially >> if you haven't done the install already per the plans, but for >> those who already have the sensor in place, think about this before >> you make a modification from the Van's plans- new hoses?, new >> setups?.. ask yourself with this information if it's worth the >> effort? >> Just bringing a difference perspective for anyone who worried about >> this, as I did initially. >> >> Tim may have changed his mind on this, if so Tim please advise. >> >> Pascal >> #40720 >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:45 AM >> To: >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >>> >>> Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which >>> can >>> assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If the >>> accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of >>> fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. >>> >>> >>> John >>> #40600 >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob >>> Leffler >>> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >>> >>> >>> Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were >>> having >>> the >>> same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from >>> anyone >>> that >>> mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to >>> minimize >>> the >>> impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. >>> >>> My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may >>> have >>> some >>> data since he's flying now. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Bob >>> #40684 >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems >>> Davis >>> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >>> >>> >>> Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? >>> I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. >>> Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter >>> mounted >>> in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ >>> Airflow >>> >>> Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the >>> location of >>> the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo >>> and the >>> distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some >>> dialogue on this subject and basically verified what Don said about >>> mounting location. >>> I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings >>> and >>> any attempts to improve or correct the situation. >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> Deems Davis N519PJ >>> http://deemsrv10.com/ >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Has any one read their manuals from EI or JPI and How they are to mount the ir Transducer? You can learn a lot from manuals. Or go look at a shop and s ee how the Certified group put theirs in., -Has anyone thought maybe your sucking air in your line just enough? Not big enough to see fuel stain- but still sucking air. How about your bypas s is opening and closing.Anything passing through you mechanical pump. Just a little leak passing by? Everyone in Texas know how their fuel acst when its 100degree plus and just think when you stop and have that 100 dollar hamburger and then go and get in it to crank up. -These are just some of my thougths not knowing everyones paticular case but it is food for thought. Keep asking, but try reading, sometime you learn more then you need. Ok I'm not here to answere . Patrick Thyssen Yes I'm flying sorta When the electrons let me. - --- On Sat, 8/15/09, William Curtis wrote: From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Date: Saturday, August 15, 2009, 4:24 PM Yes, this is the consensus of AFS, EI, Airflow et al.- For this reason as well as easier access to the transducer, I have moved my fuel flow transdu cer from the tunnel to the servo output port.- With some additional parts from AN Plumbing, I was able to put it there without any change to the hos es.=0A=0A-=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/=0A -=0AOn Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 4:24 PM, Deems Davis wro te: =0A Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. -Typi cally the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don Rivera @ Airflow Performan ce, he believes that the variations are due to the location of the meter. A pparently the optimum location is between the servo and the distribution sp ider. I've searched the archives, as I recalled some dialogue on this subje ct and basically verified what Don said about mounting location. =0AI'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings and a ny attempts to improve or correct the situation. Thanks Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/ =0Abr>=0Awww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://ww w.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List =0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com =0AMatt Dralle, List Admin. =0A==== =0A =0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 16, 2009
The GRT display with the EIS system has a lean function and by using it EGTs are used rather than fuel flow. GRT users can invoke the lean function and watch the individual cylinders peak and then go lean: first to peak is boxed green? And last to peak is boxed white? If all the minus numbers for EGT data are between 0 to -30 and the engine is smooth I then look at the fuel flow. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 4:05 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations I notice fluctuations while I am trying to adjust LOP. Like Tim, I can live with the change during the operation of the boost pump, but the LOP adjustment is more irritating. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 2:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Nope, I'm still very happy. As far as access to the sender goes, I've never had reason to touch it since it was first wired in. It works plenty well for me and I can usually plan on the reading being dead on when I refuel. Tim On Aug 16, 2009, at 11:44 AM, "Pascal" wrote: > > I agree there is a proven improvement with the forward location and > with Matt's ball (which btw would never fit for me in my limited > space) however I remind the group the flip side to this. A while back > Tim Olson and the Grumpy General, two people I respect, mentioned that > there is a brief time the pump is actually even on, take off and > landing. The time it actually caused an issue was rather brief and > played a minor issue in the total scheme of things. >> From a part of the e-mail by Tim, written last January- " While I do >> see the > increase in fuel flow, just like you do, with mine installed in the > stock location, it doesn't cause me any headaches. I only use the > fuel boost for maybe 60 seconds during takeoff, and even on landing if > I do, it's only for about 60 seconds again....just that timeframe that > I'm under about 500' AGL If you only use it a couple minutes during > the flight, it won't change those readings much at all. I've > consistently been accurate to within about .1-.2 gallons over a > 40-45 gallon flight, so it's just not worth worrying about. In over > 400 hours I've never had a fuel fill up that had any noticeable amount > of difference over what the totalizer told me I should be adding." > By all means consider moving the location to the front, especially if > you haven't done the install already per the plans, but for those who > already have the sensor in place, think about this before you make a > modification from the Van's plans- new hoses?, new setups?.. > ask yourself with this information if it's worth the effort? > Just bringing a difference perspective for anyone who worried about > this, as I did initially. > > Tim may have changed his mind on this, if so Tim please advise. > > Pascal > #40720 > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:45 AM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > >> >> Matt Dralle offered a small but well built fluid accumulator which >> can assist the dampening pressure fluctuations of pump actions. If >> the accumulator is used and placed prior to the sensor the degree of >> fluctuation should be reduced at the point of indication. >> >> >> John >> #40600 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob >> Leffler >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:11 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Deems, good timing on your question. Ivan Kristensen and I were >> having the >> same discussion the other day. We too would like to hear from >> anyone >> that >> mounted there fuel flow sensor in a non-standard location to minimize >> the impact of when the fuel pump is engaged. >> >> My memory seems to think that Gary B. may have done this and may have >> some data since he's flying now. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob >> #40684 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems >> Davis >> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 4:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations >> >> >> Is anyone experiencing variations in fuel flow readings? >> I am experiencing variations in fuel flow readings of up to .5 gph. >> Typically the variations are .1-.3 gph. I've got the flow meter >> mounted in the tunnel per Van's plans. And after talking to Don >> Rivera @ Airflow >> >> Performance, he believes that the variations are due to the location >> of the meter. Apparently the optimum location is between the servo >> and the distribution spider. I've searched the archives, as I >> recalled some dialogue on this subject and basically verified what >> Don said about mounting location. >> I'm interested to know if others are experiencing similar readings >> and any attempts to improve or correct the situation. >> >> Thanks >> >> Deems Davis N519PJ >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 16, 2009
Bill, I cut a bit too much off on the inboard side also. It was pretty easy to just glass what was needed back on... Not a big deal. I left a lip all the way around. The door turned out nice. Be sure to reinforce the latch side cowl lip as there's not a lot of grip area. http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Engine/images/imag0095.jpg Jay MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote: > Thanks for the pics. Yes, I thought that's what I would be doing but > I've already cut too big a hole and am planning a slightly larger door > and door opening. Note to self; cut a small hole then enlarge as more > is learned. > > Nice site and pics. Thanks! > > vankris wrote: > > > > > > > YOU shouldn't need to get into the honeycomb areas of the top cowl to attach a hidden hinge here is a link to some pictures I hope will help you understand the process. http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_4268126#imageID=77306227 > > This hidden hinge and the door latches are from Non Stop Aviation > > > > Regards, > > > > Ivan Kristensen > > > > #40838 > > > > FF and wiring > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 57821#257821 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258131#258131 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
You might want to consider putting a couple of metal strips where the cam l ock locks on the cowling due to the fact it will vibrate and wear away the composite over time.. Just a thought. Patrick Thyssen flying when electrons let me. --- On Sun, 8/16/09, jayb wrote: From: jayb <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Oil door hidden hinge Date: Sunday, August 16, 2009, 11:23 PM Bill, I cut a bit too much off on the inboard side also. It was pretty easy to ju st glass what was needed back on... Not a big deal. I left a lip all the wa y around. The door turned out nice. Be sure to reinforce the latch side cow l lip as there's not a lot of grip area. http://www.brinkmeyers.net/Photos/Aircraft/Engine/images/imag0095.jpg Jay MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote: > Thanks for the pics.- Yes, I thought that's what I would be doing but > I've already cut too big a hole and am planning a slightly larger door > and door opening.- Note to self; cut a small hole then enlarge as more > is learned. > > Nice site and pics.- Thanks! > > vankris wrote: > > >- > > > >- YOU shouldn't need to get into the honeycomb areas of the top cowl t o attach a hidden hinge here is a link to some pictures I hope will help yo u understand the process. http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_426812 6#imageID=77306227 > >- This hidden hinge and the door latches are from Non Stop Aviation > > > >- Regards, > > > >- Ivan Kristensen > > > >- #40838 > > > >- FF and wiring > > > > > > > > > >- Read this topic online here: > > > >- http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 57821#257821 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >- - > > > > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258131#258131 le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Leaky Matco Brake
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
I had a heck of a time with the Matco Brake last week. It seems that the threads on the brass fitting that comes out of the brake itself have a wierd NPT fitting that does not marry well to the AN fitting. It was still leaking after the second time I sealed it. What a mess with hyro fluid all over the floor of the Pilot side. Finally I took it off and using form-a-gasket #2 assembled it. I cranked the heck out of the AN fitting on the vise and got it really tight. Finally - no more hydro fluid dripping on my face and arms. Advice - crank the AN fitting down really tight -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258149#258149 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How long to build an RV10
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
We used February 30th... The 29th comes every four years, and we didn't think we could narrow down the date that close. I suppose you could also use April 31st, June 31st, September 31st, or November 31 take your pick. One of the first questions we get from 'outsiders' is "How long did it take?". We stopped tracking hour by hour July 2008, at that time we had in 2300 hours, I think we easily topped 3000 hours, we did use a quick build. This has been said before but anyone wanting to build an airplane to fly will be very disappointed as to how long it takes. You need to enter this sort of project for the joy of the build, and the idea that one day it will be done. Go ahead and prove to all of the veterans, or repeat offenders just how much you don't know about building and give an estimated completion date, or an estimate of how long you have to go. I heard somewhere that Steve R's last RV-10 took him 60 days, not sure if that was QB or not, or how much help he had, but 60 days!! Sure wish he was still around to answer..... Enjoy every minute of the build, the highs and lows, after you are flying you might just start to miss building. But don't take too long, these things are a riot to fly!! Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Kyle Hokel, Tony Kolar, Wayne Elsner, Jason Kreidler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258150#258150 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaky Matco Brake
Thanks for the heads up. Could the problem be a badly machined part? Linn AirMike wrote: > > I had a heck of a time with the Matco Brake last week. It seems that the threads on the brass fitting that comes out of the brake itself have a wierd NPT fitting that does not marry well to the AN fitting. It was still leaking after the second time I sealed it. What a mess with hyro fluid all over the floor of the Pilot side. Finally I took it off and using form-a-gasket #2 assembled it. I cranked the heck out of the AN fitting on the vise and got it really tight. Finally - no more hydro fluid dripping on my face and arms. > > Advice - crank the AN fitting down really tight > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258149#258149 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil door hidden hinge
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Added some extra glass and a Z-bar stiffener and it seems to work well. Should have taken the time for the 100% hidden door, but at least it is flush and do not have the do-hickers sticking up. -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258152#258152 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/pc250015_810.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Leaky Matco Brake
Yes, the fitting into the caliper is pipe thread. No you should NOT need excessive tightening on the AN flare fitting. Either the fitting or the flare are likely to have a nick, causing the leak. Anytime a flare fitting needs more than moderate tightening there is a problem. Tighter is not better, and is likely to crack a tube flare. Kelly A&P AirMike wrote: > > I had a heck of a time with the Matco Brake last week. It seems that the threads on the brass fitting that comes out of the brake itself have a wierd NPT fitting that does not marry well to the AN fitting. It was still leaking after the second time I sealed it. What a mess with hyro fluid all over the floor of the Pilot side. Finally I took it off and using form-a-gasket #2 assembled it. I cranked the heck out of the AN fitting on the vise and got it really tight. Finally - no more hydro fluid dripping on my face and arms. > > Advice - crank the AN fitting down really tight > > -------- > OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday > Q/B Kit - end game > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258149#258149 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Leaky Matco Brake
Date: Aug 17, 2009
When you bleed the brakes, be sure and compress the puck before bleeding from the bottom and if you heat the tube to fit the brake valve nipple be sure and have fluid to the top of the tube before connecting to the nipple. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 5:14 AM Subject: RV10-List: Leaky Matco Brake I had a heck of a time with the Matco Brake last week. It seems that the threads on the brass fitting that comes out of the brake itself have a wierd NPT fitting that does not marry well to the AN fitting. It was still leaking after the second time I sealed it. What a mess with hyro fluid all over the floor of the Pilot side. Finally I took it off and using form-a-gasket #2 assembled it. I cranked the heck out of the AN fitting on the vise and got it really tight. Finally - no more hydro fluid dripping on my face and arms. Advice - crank the AN fitting down really tight -------- OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday Q/B Kit - end game Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258149#258149 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static System
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I posted this on VAF earlier in the week, but didn't get much of a response. At OSH, I bought the machined static ports from iflyrv10.com. These require a =BD" hole in the skin for the port to fit in and have a barbed male connector on the back for the =BC" static line to press onto. My plan has been to run =BC" tygon from each static port to a T-connector installed in the top of the tailcone. At that point, I would run forward toward the firewall. The idea was to: 1) Keep an equal length of tubing between the static port and the T. So a slip with a little ram air on one side would balance out with the other. 2) Also to eliminate the possibility of getting water inside the static ports. Then someone suggested that I could be setting myself up for condensation inside the static lines and that I should put the T on the left side and run the right port all the way over - before going forward. Condensation just doesn't sound like a very likely scenario to me. Even if the air was completely saturated and cooled to the dew point, I can't see enough water collecting to cause a blockage. It would take several days of the same scenario to actually fill the tube. Has anyone seen this before? How have you routed your static lines - most importantly why? Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static System
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
You are describing exactly what I did. FWIW, I think you're talking about the Cleveland static ports. Bob N442PM _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Static System I posted this on VAF earlier in the week, but didn't get much of a response. At OSH, I bought the machined static ports from iflyrv10.com. These require a =BD" hole in the skin for the port to fit in and have a barbed male connector on the back for the =BC" static line to press onto. My plan has been to run =BC" tygon from each static port to a T-connector installed in the top of the tailcone. At that point, I would run forward toward the firewall. The idea was to: 1) Keep an equal length of tubing between the static port and the T. So a slip with a little ram air on one side would balance out with the other. 2) Also to eliminate the possibility of getting water inside the static ports. Then someone suggested that I could be setting myself up for condensation inside the static lines and that I should put the T on the left side and run the right port all the way over - before going forward. Condensation just doesn't sound like a very likely scenario to me. Even if the air was completely saturated and cooled to the dew point, I can't see enough water collecting to cause a blockage. It would take several days of the same scenario to actually fill the tube. Has anyone seen this before? How have you routed your static lines - most importantly why? Phil ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Subject: Re: Static System
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Phil, Mooney uses a very similar static setup, which initially was built with right side coming over to left to a tee then forward. They later changed to mounting the tee near the top of the fuselage to avoid water incursion from driving rain affecting both sides. What you are planning makes a lot more sense than losing the advantage of uphill runs to the Tee. Kelly On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 7:19 AM, Perry, Phil wrote: > I posted this on VAF earlier in the week, but didn=92t get much of a > response. > > > At OSH, I bought the machined static ports from iflyrv10.com. These > require a =BD=94 hole in the skin for the port to fit in and have a barbe d male > connector on the back for the =BC=94 static line to press onto. > > > My plan has been to run =BC=94 tygon from each static port to a T-connect or > installed in the top of the tailcone. At that point, I would run forward > toward the firewall. > > > The idea was to: > > 1) Keep an equal length of tubing between the static port and the T. > So a slip with a little ram air on one side would balance out with the > other. > > 2) Also to eliminate the possibility of getting water inside the > static ports. > > Then someone suggested that I could be setting myself up for condensatio n > inside the static lines and that I should put the T on the left side and run > the right port all the way over ' before going forward. > > > Condensation just doesn=92t sound like a very likely scenario to me. Eve n if > the air was completely saturated and cooled to the dew point, I can=92t s ee > enough water collecting to cause a blockage. It would take several days of > the same scenario to actually fill the tube. > > > Has anyone seen this before? How have you routed your static lines ' m ost > importantly why? > > > Phil > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static System
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Yes. Sorry about that. The Cleveland ports. From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) [mailto:bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com] Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:27 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static System You are describing exactly what I did. FWIW, I think you're talking about the Cleveland static ports. Bob N442PM ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Static System I posted this on VAF earlier in the week, but didn't get much of a response. At OSH, I bought the machined static ports from iflyrv10.com. These require a =BD" hole in the skin for the port to fit in and have a barbed male connector on the back for the =BC" static line to press onto. My plan has been to run =BC" tygon from each static port to a T-connector installed in the top of the tailcone. At that point, I would run forward toward the firewall. The idea was to: 1) Keep an equal length of tubing between the static port and the T. So a slip with a little ram air on one side would balance out with the other. 2) Also to eliminate the possibility of getting water inside the static ports. Then someone suggested that I could be setting myself up for condensation inside the static lines and that I should put the T on the left side and run the right port all the way over - before going forward. Condensation just doesn't sound like a very likely scenario to me. Even if the air was completely saturated and cooled to the dew point, I can't see enough water collecting to cause a blockage. It would take several days of the same scenario to actually fill the tube. Has anyone seen this before? How have you routed your static lines - most importantly why? Phil http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static System
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Here's the photo. http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SPF50 Phil From: Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:49 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static System Yes. Sorry about that. The Cleveland ports. From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) [mailto:bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com] Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:27 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static System You are describing exactly what I did. FWIW, I think you're talking about the Cleveland static ports. Bob N442PM ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Static System I posted this on VAF earlier in the week, but didn't get much of a response. At OSH, I bought the machined static ports from iflyrv10.com. These require a =BD" hole in the skin for the port to fit in and have a barbed male connector on the back for the =BC" static line to press onto. My plan has been to run =BC" tygon from each static port to a T-connector installed in the top of the tailcone. At that point, I would run forward toward the firewall. The idea was to: 1) Keep an equal length of tubing between the static port and the T. So a slip with a little ram air on one side would balance out with the other. 2) Also to eliminate the possibility of getting water inside the static ports. Then someone suggested that I could be setting myself up for condensation inside the static lines and that I should put the T on the left side and run the right port all the way over - before going forward. Condensation just doesn't sound like a very likely scenario to me. Even if the air was completely saturated and cooled to the dew point, I can't see enough water collecting to cause a blockage. It would take several days of the same scenario to actually fill the tube. Has anyone seen this before? How have you routed your static lines - most importantly why? Phil http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VA-189 fuel servo inlet hose fitting question
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
I spoke to Mahion at Mattituck this morning. Finally, someone who knows their stuff and doesn't speak with forked tongue. The proper 90 degree "swivel" fitting, with proper 37 degree aircraft flare, is available here (a bargain at $5): http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroquipfitting.php The 90 degree aluminum fitting from Summit Racing referenced in a previous post would probably work too (most racing stuff uses aircraft flares). Using plumbing fittings was not recommended as the flare is likely not 37 degrees. Side note: The injector servo requires swapping the stock location of fuel inlet and plug. This can be seen on page FF3-1. The inlet straight out fitting is shown in the proper location just above the mixture. In addition to swapping the plug/inlet, there's a screen and spring inside the servo body that has to be swapped too. The spring side faces the plug. Not a big deal, just good to know it's been done correctly. Side note: make sure there's a letter "G" stamped on the servo plug shown just above the mixture arm. That means that the servo is compliant with the gasket replacement AD. Cheers, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258202#258202 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: extra air seal fabric?
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Jay, I used the silicone baffle material, so have almost all of the Van's stuff left over. I am just down the road from you at KAPA, if you want to stop by to pick it up. No charge. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258203#258203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Thanks to all for their responses on this topic. What's driving me on this, is that I want to balance my injectors so I can begin to play with LOP, and I'd like to have a more stable measurement when collecting the data for the injectors. Thanks to the link on Matt's bulb. I've got an email into him with some questions. Has anyone had any experience with this? I'm just wondering if this is one of those thing that should work i theory, but..... ? Also someone mentioned a lack of space to install. I've asked Matt for dimensions. If it works this might be the easiest 'fix'. We'll see, Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
We have the 'bulb' from Matt installed in the tunnel. Unfortunately it has not eliminated variations with the boost pump turned on and off. There is room for it, no pictures available though, sorry. We are at the very same point you are Deems, in fact we are probably fighting the same battles. I would give strong consideration before increasing the volume of fuel of air any more than absolutely needed in the tunnel. Any increase might invite the fuel to get warmer, and increase the chance of vapor issues. I say this because the tunnel is fairly warm, and with fuel boiling at ~125 degrees F, you can see the tunnel heat may be enough to create vapor already in the tunnel, long before it gets on top of the engine. Juts my 2 cents.... What is your spread while trying to lean? While performing the 'lean' test we nearly shut down the engine, not comfortable at all. Next step is to swap out the high and low injectors to see if we can get closer, or at least consistent. I do know the engine starts to run rough below 13.4 GPH at 65%, we need to do better than that! Jason Kreidler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258217#258217 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Linn As I understand the purpose of balancing injectors is to match fuel flow to EGTs. so that each cylinder is ba;anced at close to the same temps and fuel flows. Attached is the document I received from D. Rivera @ airflow performance regarding his recommended process for balancing injectors. It required both EGT and GPH data. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Linn Walters wrote: > > I may be wrong here, but I don't think you get any valuable info from > fuel flow when trying to match injectors. The data point is EGT > ...... which you work towards balancing the readings. > What info do you get from fuel flow in this scenario? > Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 17, 2009
The space issue is me Deems- getting the tube from the pump to the sensor is about 5-6 inches but the adaptors take a good 1 inch from that so if I needed to put a "t" in there for the bulb I would have no space for all the adaptors and such to work- it would be very difficult anyway. Certainly not worth that effort. If I needed to do it, which I wont, I would simply move the whole sensor to the front per the numerous feedback to that effectiveness. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 9:32 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations > > Thanks to all for their responses on this topic. > > What's driving me on this, is that I want to balance my injectors so I can > begin to play with LOP, and I'd like to have a more stable measurement > when collecting the data for the injectors. Thanks to the link on Matt's > bulb. I've got an email into him with some questions. Has anyone had any > experience with this? I'm just wondering if this is one of those thing > that should work i theory, but..... ? Also someone mentioned a lack of > space to install. I've asked Matt for dimensions. If it works this might > be the easiest 'fix'. We'll see, > > > Deems Davis N519PJ > http://deemsrv10.com/index.html > >> * >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
More info on the subject - here's the GAMI lean test. http://www.gami.com/gamijectors/leantest.php Bob N442PM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 12:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Linn As I understand the purpose of balancing injectors is to match fuel flow to EGTs. so that each cylinder is ba;anced at close to the same temps and fuel flows. Attached is the document I received from D. Rivera @ airflow performance regarding his recommended process for balancing injectors. It required both EGT and GPH data. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Linn Walters wrote: > > I may be wrong here, but I don't think you get any valuable info from > fuel flow when trying to match injectors. The data point is EGT > ...... which you work towards balancing the readings. > What info do you get from fuel flow in this scenario? > Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Wow.... Grumpy, thanks for explaining what I had experienced, I sure am glad it didn't develop to the extent of this video. I don't do well with things that happen that I don't understand, I kinda gota know. 2+2=4 why? Anyway, thanks again for the help, sure is neat to have the sort of experience you have to draw on and ask questions. Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying 4 Partner Build Wayne Elsner, Kyle Hokel, Tony Kolar, Jason Kreidler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258225#258225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
I would not describe the attitude of the -10 nose high when this happened to me. I had the nose pointed down, albeit not too far, it was pointed down to maintain an 85 knot airspeed. The lesson going forward is to not slip without flaps, the sub lesson is to keep the speed up when slipping (if necessary to slip without flaps), this will naturally point the nose further down. It did not feel anything like the entry of a spin, entering a spin usually causes the airplane to roll, this was just an abrupt yaw. The airplane remained relatively flat, maybe a 10 degree wing drop. Spin training was not part of the transition training, neither were slips without flaps. Thanks, Jason Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258241#258241 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Subject: Re: VA-189 fuel servo inlet hose fitting question
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
An Plumbing, as the name implies, sells primarily aircraft (AN-37 degree) fittings. Looks about the same price as Spruce but Spruce is probably more convienent for most. Regarding the "G" on the fuel survo. If your servo serial number is NOT on the SB list, you will NOT have or need a "G" stamp as only units on the serial number list are subject to the SB. My Silberhawk unit was not on the serial number listing. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 11:59 AM, jayb wrote: > > I spoke to Mahion at Mattituck this morning. Finally, someone who knows > their stuff and doesn't speak with forked tongue. > > The proper 90 degree "swivel" fitting, with proper 37 degree aircraft > flare, is available here (a bargain at $5): > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroquipfitting.php > > The 90 degree aluminum fitting from Summit Racing referenced in a previous > post would probably work too (most racing stuff uses aircraft flares). Using > plumbing fittings was not recommended as the flare is likely not 37 degrees. > > Side note: The injector servo requires swapping the stock location of fuel > inlet and plug. This can be seen on page FF3-1. The inlet straight out > fitting is shown in the proper location just above the mixture. In addition > to swapping the plug/inlet, there's a screen and spring inside the servo > body that has to be swapped too. The spring side faces the plug. Not a big > deal, just good to know it's been done correctly. > > Side note: make sure there's a letter "G" stamped on the servo plug shown > just above the mixture arm. That means that the servo is compliant with the > gasket replacement AD. > > Cheers, > Jay > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 18, 2009
From: "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Watching this thread with GREAT interest. I have consistently higher CHT on Cylinder #2 compared to the rest (when running rich), with consequentially greater EGT. I have trimmed the fwd air dam, but it makes little difference. Once running lean of peak, CHT #2 is lower than the rest. Suggests to me that I have a restriction in either the line or nozzle to the #2 cylinder. I am a philistine in all things related to the engine. How do you go about adjusting or changing the nozzles? Is this something an engine shop should be looking at?? Cheers Ron VH-XRM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, 18 August 2009 3:21 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Linn As I understand the purpose of balancing injectors is to match fuel flow to EGTs. so that each cylinder is ba;anced at close to the same temps and fuel flows. Attached is the document I received from D. Rivera @ airflow performance regarding his recommended process for balancing injectors. It required both EGT and GPH data. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Linn Walters wrote: > > I may be wrong here, but I don't think you get any valuable info from > fuel flow when trying to match injectors. The data point is EGT > ...... which you work towards balancing the readings. > What info do you get from fuel flow in this scenario? > Linn DISCLAIMER:--------------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Gurley" <rngurley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
Date: Aug 17, 2009
This makes me want to install speed brakes in the wings so I do not have to slip. Dick -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Departure from controlled flight I would not describe the attitude of the -10 nose high when this happened to me. I had the nose pointed down, albeit not too far, it was pointed down to maintain an 85 knot airspeed. The lesson going forward is to not slip without flaps, the sub lesson is to keep the speed up when slipping (if necessary to slip without flaps), this will naturally point the nose further down. It did not feel anything like the entry of a spin, entering a spin usually causes the airplane to roll, this was just an abrupt yaw. The airplane remained relatively flat, maybe a 10 degree wing drop. Spin training was not part of the transition training, neither were slips without flaps. Thanks, Jason Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258241#258241 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 17, 2009
I called Lycon to confirm my expectations of normal. I asked what should we expect for EGT range and CHT range for any given power setting. Assuming relatively new manufactured engine with new cylinders (not overhauled , welded, oversized, etc) one can expect the EGT range of 75 F and the CHT range should be 50 F. Each change of MP will may cause a different cylinder to have the peak temperature. Cylinders manufactured prior to say 2000 will probably repaired and the repairs will change the temperature and pressure characteristics. The implication of this is that if your EGTs or CHTs for a given stabilzed power setting fall outside of these norms then , perhaps, additional investigation is warranted, if not you may be chasing problems that don't exist. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations --> Watching this thread with GREAT interest. I have consistently higher CHT on Cylinder #2 compared to the rest (when running rich), with consequentially greater EGT. I have trimmed the fwd air dam, but it makes little difference. Once running lean of peak, CHT #2 is lower than the rest. Suggests to me that I have a restriction in either the line or nozzle to the #2 cylinder. I am a philistine in all things related to the engine. How do you go about adjusting or changing the nozzles? Is this something an engine shop should be looking at?? Cheers Ron VH-XRM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, 18 August 2009 3:21 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Linn As I understand the purpose of balancing injectors is to match fuel flow to EGTs. so that each cylinder is ba;anced at close to the same temps and fuel flows. Attached is the document I received from D. Rivera @ airflow performance regarding his recommended process for balancing injectors. It required both EGT and GPH data. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Linn Walters wrote: > > I may be wrong here, but I don't think you get any valuable info from > fuel flow when trying to match injectors. The data point is EGT > ...... which you work towards balancing the readings. > What info do you get from fuel flow in this scenario? > Linn DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Flow variations
Date: Aug 17, 2009
It is very easy to get a little crud in the injector nozzles. Disconnect the fuel line from #2 injector and turn on the fuel pump with the throttle partly in to flush out the line. Remove the injector from the cylinder and carefully disassemble the unit to clean it with and air line. It is very difficult to actually see the crud in an injector, but after cleaning they work much better. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 5:33 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Watching this thread with GREAT interest. I have consistently higher CHT on Cylinder #2 compared to the rest (when running rich), with consequentially greater EGT. I have trimmed the fwd air dam, but it makes little difference. Once running lean of peak, CHT #2 is lower than the rest. Suggests to me that I have a restriction in either the line or nozzle to the #2 cylinder. I am a philistine in all things related to the engine. How do you go about adjusting or changing the nozzles? Is this something an engine shop should be looking at?? Cheers Ron VH-XRM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, 18 August 2009 3:21 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow variations Linn As I understand the purpose of balancing injectors is to match fuel flow to EGTs. so that each cylinder is ba;anced at close to the same temps and fuel flows. Attached is the document I received from D. Rivera @ airflow performance regarding his recommended process for balancing injectors. It required both EGT and GPH data. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Linn Walters wrote: > > I may be wrong here, but I don't think you get any valuable info from > fuel flow when trying to match injectors. The data point is EGT > ...... which you work towards balancing the readings. > What info do you get from fuel flow in this scenario? > Linn DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
In both my RV-4 and RV-10 I ended up moving the flow transducer to the line between the Fuel Servo and distribution block on the top of the engine. This location has completely eliminated any difference in displayed fuel flow when the boost pump is on or off. This is also the location that most certified aircraft have you install the transducer. You want all the cylinders to peak at exactly the same fuel flow. Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow variations
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 17, 2009
Ron, Have you tried the coke bottle test? Pull the injectors off the cylinders, direct their output to individual bottles. Turn on the boost pump, fill the bottles half full or so. If #2's bottle is not up to the same level as the others, there's a restriction somewhere. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258326#258326 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andrew Johnson" <noconwud(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Has anyone considered making their own propeller?
Date: Aug 17, 2009
After seeing some other folks do it, and having done it with model airplanes, I'm considering attempting it. Has anyone else considered doing it? My two major concerns would be the harmonics and the potential for asymmetric thrust (one blade pulls more than another), but I've read plenty of accounts of folks making their own with great success. Thoughts? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Cruise figures
Date: Aug 17, 2009
I was talking to Ed Hayden about cruise performance for IO-540 engines with 10:1 pistons. I told him I would post some figures I recorded on a recent trip from Yuma to Albany, OR, Nampa, ID, SLC, UT, and home. 56f oat 10,500' 132ias 161tas 11.3gph 20.5" wot 2320rpm cht 411 403 353 357 393 385 egt 1372 1316 1335 1280 1365 1354 47f oat 12,500' 128ias 161tas 11.6gph 19.3" wot 2320rpm cht 399 389 340 347 387 374 egt 1289 1233 1242 1194 1267 1262 59f oat 10,500' 134ias 162tas 11.6gph 20.8" wot 2300rpm cht 405 400 340 353 390 381 egt 1337 1276 1303 1244 1317 1316 Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV N199RD parked beside me at Nampa, beautiful airplane! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Has anyone considered making their own propeller?
I've not heard of anyone trying it on an RV10. I suspect it's because most folks opt to install a constant speed prop in order to extract the most performance. I'm only aware of one -10 that was/is equipped with a fixed pitch prop, and every time I see/hear of it; its for sale. Deems Davis N519PJ http://deemsrv10.com/index.html Andrew Johnson wrote: > After seeing some other folks do it, and having done it with model > airplanes, I'm considering attempting it. Has anyone else considered > doing it? > > My two major concerns would be the harmonics and the potential for > asymmetric thrust (one blade pulls more than another), but I've read > plenty of accounts of folks making their own with great success. > > Thoughts? > > Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2009
Subject: N402RH Paint Pictures
The paint was finished four days before we left for Oshkosh, Craig Roberts painted it in Aurora OR. _http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/RV10PaintAndSV_ (http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/RV10PaintAndSV) # Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
Strangely, I can't wait to do some slips in my '10... or maybe I just want to fly it. I have zero experience in the '10 but I do like to slip aircraft. Probably because some of my initial training was in a Schweizer 2-22 glider which had ineffective spoilers (yes, there is such a thing). So what I'm saying below has nothing to do with the '10 and is just one pilot's observations. While it's important to maintain airspeed, I found that slips generally required some back pressure to maintain speed and attitude. I found this to be true in powered aircraft like my Maule and Cessnas as well as in gliders. Conversly, I find myself naturally speeding up when I first do a slip in an unfamiliar aircraft. When you really need to slip in order to steepen the approach and touchdown sooner, speeding up in a slip can create a problem when you come out of it with excess speed while trying to touch down. Furthermore, some aircraft's airspeed system is unreliable in a slip making attitude even more important. I like to try out slips at altitude to get the attitude picture and stick feel when trimmed for normal approach. Then try them on approach to lock in the attitude picture. But all that's just because I like slips. Like tailwheels, I'm not sure there are many real world applications for approach steepening slips on aircraft with adequate flaps or brakes. Anyway, thanks for flight reports. I'm salivating. Bill jkreidler wrote: > > I would not describe the attitude of the -10 nose high when this happened to me. I had the nose pointed down, albeit not too far, it was pointed down to maintain an 85 knot airspeed. The lesson going forward is to not slip without flaps, the sub lesson is to keep the speed up when slipping (if necessary to slip without flaps), this will naturally point the nose further down. > > It did not feel anything like the entry of a spin, entering a spin usually causes the airplane to roll, this was just an abrupt yaw. The airplane remained relatively flat, maybe a 10 degree wing drop. > > Spin training was not part of the transition training, neither were slips without flaps. > > Thanks, Jason > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258241#258241 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: N402RH Paint Pictures
Date: Aug 18, 2009
Nice paint. But those AF screens caught my eye. :) They keep getting better and better with each upgrade. Glad it is taking me so long to get to the panel stage. On Aug 18, 2009, at 10:56 AM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > The paint was finished four days before we left for Oshkosh, Craig > Roberts painted it in Aurora OR. > > > http://picasaweb.google.com/RobHickmanAFS/RV10PaintAndSV# > > > Rob Hickman > N402RH RV-10 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IO-540 C4B5
From: "Gwayne" <waynepedersen4(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2009
Anybody have any thoughts on this 250hp narrow deck engine for the -10 I am building. Thanks Wayne -------- Wayne RV 7 "eh?" 120 hrs RV 10 fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258513#258513 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: IO-540 C4B5
Date: Aug 18, 2009
I have a C4B5 in my airplane. The engine came out of an Aztec, so had the wrong engine mount flanges. I had to order new ones from Lycoming. Other than that, it works great. David Maib 40559 Flying On Aug 18, 2009, at 5:47 PM, Gwayne wrote: > > Anybody have any thoughts on this 250hp narrow deck engine for the > -10 I am building. > > Thanks > > Wayne > > -------- > Wayne > RV 7 "eh?" 120 hrs > RV 10 fuse > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258513#258513 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2009
Subject: Re: IO-540 C4B5
From: tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
Gwayne, We've overhauled several and converted them for RV-10 use. They appear to work well. If you wanted to up the HP, you could even increase it with very little effort. Tom Lawson 970-420-1798 ____________________________________________________________ Need cash? Click to get a loan. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFRc8leuwM9V7E6sZM1UKgk37NeGL7yyHQhI2XHiNXX2q7jAFamK8/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Has anyone considered making their own propeller?
Date: Aug 18, 2009
Andy - Dan Horton carved the prop for his bi-plane project. It was a major ordeal. He had an experienced old-timer carve a one-blade blank, built a duplicator, then had trouble getting a blank that was up to his standards. After much time, effort and no small amount of angst, he has a beautiful prop that he carved himself. neal After seeing some other folks do it, and having done it with model airplanes, I'm considering attempting it. Has anyone else considered doing it? My two major concerns would be the harmonics and the potential for asymmetric thrust (one blade pulls more than another), but I've read plenty of accounts of folks making their own with great success. Thoughts? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Aug 18, 2009
"I'm not sure there are many real world applications for approach steepening slips on aircraft with adequate flaps or brakes." Normally, maybe not. But what about abnormal? e.g., an in-flight fire takes out the electrical system (no flaps now), and there's a nice airport right below you. Sure be nice to slip as much as possible. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258554#258554 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Low MP/Hi RPM
Date: Aug 19, 2009
From: "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Read an article on Vansairforce about pulling power and going full fine to slow down. Following is my question to that forum: "Hi folks, Following is an extract from the Lycoming IO 540 operators manual: "These engines are equipped with a dynamic counterweight system and must be operated accordingly; avoid high engine speed, low manifold pressure operation. Use a smooth steady movement of the throttle (avoid rapid opening and closing). If this warning is not heeded, there could be severe damage to the counterweights, roller and bushings." So, if we use full fine pitch (high RPM) with the throttle all the way off to slow down, aren't we inducing the condition we are warned against? I am a philistine when it comes to engine technology, and I'm on a serious learning exercise on the proper management of my engine. But I would have one **** of a time slowing down my -10 without the throttle seriously retarded while maintaining cruise rpm. A lot has been said about climb and cruise RPM/MP settings. But what are acceptable RPM/MP settings for low speed/deceleration ops and how long can these be sustained before the damage preempted in the Operators Manual is realised??" This list has been a mine of info for me, so would appreciate your feedback on this one. cheers, Ron RV-10 VH-XRM, flying in Oz DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messa ges attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary o r copyright material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. Th ey are for the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, dis closure, copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this messa ge is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with out the written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by re turn email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be d eemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attac hed are error or virus free. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
No doubt! I'm sitting here trying imagine the scenario... thinking Nomex would be good. I've had an electrical connection burn through and fill the (tiny) cockpit with smoke. Very memorable. Couldn't get on the ground fast enough. Problem was all I had was flaps. Very effective flaps but it was a glider! Hard to describe the manuevering I did to get down. Talk about some bad wiring.. and I did it. Anyway, the slip would be very useful in the scenario you describe, especially to lose altitude initially. But it would be a sad thing to continue the slip through final approach and mishandle the plane enough to depart controlled flight 200' off the deck and spin in. Being less than proficient in no-flaps slips combined with the panic of anything having to do with an airborne fire. Interesting scenario. Bill 'oil access door' Watson 40605 Bob Turner wrote: > > "I'm not sure > there are many real world applications for approach steepening slips on > aircraft with adequate flaps or brakes." > > Normally, maybe not. But what about abnormal? e.g., an in-flight fire takes out the electrical system (no flaps now), and there's a nice airport right below you. Sure be nice to slip as much as possible. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258554#258554 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Re: Departure from controlled flight
Date: Aug 19, 2009
I just believe it is better to be familiar with how you aircraft handles in all configurations based on having experiences and practiced them at safe altitude rather than discovering them during the obvious stress-inducing climate of an actual in-flight emergency. I might not need a no-flap, slip to landing except only during an emergency; then I will probably REALLY need it and it would be nice to have done one or two beforehand.... Richard Bibb 972-771-2598 972-835-5979 mobile -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 7:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Departure from controlled flight No doubt! I'm sitting here trying imagine the scenario... thinking Nomex would be good. I've had an electrical connection burn through and fill the (tiny) cockpit with smoke. Very memorable. Couldn't get on the ground fast enough. Problem was all I had was flaps. Very effective flaps but it was a glider! Hard to describe the manuevering I did to get down. Talk about some bad wiring.. and I did it. Anyway, the slip would be very useful in the scenario you describe, especially to lose altitude initially. But it would be a sad thing to continue the slip through final approach and mishandle the plane enough to depart controlled flight 200' off the deck and spin in. Being less than proficient in no-flaps slips combined with the panic of anything having to do with an airborne fire. Interesting scenario. Bill 'oil access door' Watson 40605 Bob Turner wrote: > > "I'm not sure > there are many real world applications for approach steepening slips on > aircraft with adequate flaps or brakes." > > Normally, maybe not. But what about abnormal? e.g., an in-flight fire takes out the electrical system (no flaps now), and there's a nice airport right below you. Sure be nice to slip as much as possible. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258554#258554 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Winglts ?
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Aug 19, 2009
Thanks for the thoughts about winglets. Any new information from OSH on this? Maybe it's like some have said -- the winglets on new models similar to the -10 are just to look cool ... and they do! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258658#258658 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one? I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the RV-10? I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did, if you know what I mean...? Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Console
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2009
I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they REALLY like? or suggest? -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258777#258777 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door locks
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2009
I have seen some door locks with the stock door handles that are about 2 inches in front of the outside door handle. Can anyone post some pictures on how these were done with the stock door hardware on the inside of the door. Thanks Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258780#258780 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2009
Strasnuts wrote: > I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they REALLY like? or suggest? I have the one that Stein now sells. After you get the top fit, pull it off and fit the overhead while the top is upside down on some sawhorses. Use some of the rubber seal to seal the aft edge against the rear bulkhead. Install 2 of the scat tube flanges to the aft side of the bulkhead and add 2 naca inlets to provide the air. You will get a bunch of air out of this configuration even with all 4 vents open. Some of my pictures can be seen at http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/43-CabinCover/100_2897.html -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258795#258795 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Aug 20, 2009
Subject: Door locks
Geoff, Is this what you are looking for? http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=0&log=65696&row http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=0&log=84813&row=10 Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1 Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 11:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door locks I have seen some door locks with the stock door handles that are about 2 inches in front of the outside door handle. Can anyone post some pictures on how these were done with the stock door hardware on the inside of the door. Thanks Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258780#258780 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
Date: - - - , 20-
That is exactly the info I was hoping for. Thanks for the reply Orchidman. (Is that a super hero?) ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console > > > Strasnuts wrote: >> I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they >> REALLY like? or suggest? > > I have the one that Stein now sells. After you get the top fit, pull it > off and fit the overhead while the top is upside down on some sawhorses. > Use some of the rubber seal to seal the aft edge against the rear > bulkhead. Install 2 of the scat tube flanges to the aft side of the > bulkhead and add 2 naca inlets to provide the air. You will get a bunch > of air out of this configuration even with all 4 vents open. > > Some of my pictures can be seen at > http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/43-CabinCover/100_2897.html > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > (N2GB Flying) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258795#258795 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
Date: Aug 20, 2009
Sean, Depending on how urgent your need is, Aerosport Products should have a carbon fiber overhead available shortly. If you were at OSH, you may have saw Aerosport's carbon fiber instrument panel at either SteinAir's or AFS's booth. Geoff also had product at the RV-10 HQ at Camp Scholler. The advantages are that the carbon fiber will be lighter than the fiberglass overhead. If you have a newer (i.e. pink) canopy, these should fit better than previously available consoles. With the inconsistencies of the green canopies, it's amazing that anything fit well. The product is in the final design stage and Geoff should have the initial prototype available soon. He had my pink canopy scanned and digitized, which is why I'm aware of the product. Also, I am also helping him with getting his website online (which should be live soon). bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 8:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console That is exactly the info I was hoping for. Thanks for the reply Orchidman. (Is that a super hero?) ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console > > > Strasnuts wrote: >> I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they >> REALLY like? or suggest? > > I have the one that Stein now sells. After you get the top fit, pull it > off and fit the overhead while the top is upside down on some sawhorses. > Use some of the rubber seal to seal the aft edge against the rear > bulkhead. Install 2 of the scat tube flanges to the aft side of the > bulkhead and add 2 naca inlets to provide the air. You will get a bunch > of air out of this configuration even with all 4 vents open. > > Some of my pictures can be seen at > http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/43-CabinCover/100_2897.html > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > (N2GB Flying) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258795#258795 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Strain" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
Date: Aug 20, 2009
Check out www.flightlineac.com. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 4:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead Console Strasnuts wrote: > I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they REALLY like? or suggest? I have the one that Stein now sells. After you get the top fit, pull it off and fit the overhead while the top is upside down on some sawhorses. Use some of the rubber seal to seal the aft edge against the rear bulkhead. Install 2 of the scat tube flanges to the aft side of the bulkhead and add 2 naca inlets to provide the air. You will get a bunch of air out of this configuration even with all 4 vents open. Some of my pictures can be seen at http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/43-CabinCover/100_2897.html -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258795#258795 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Overhead Console
Date: Aug 20, 2009
Sean I have seen Stien's console on a couple of -10s at KOSH and they are very nice. If you are a bit more ambitious, you might want to take a page out of John G's book and make your own. Attached are a couple of photos of my "amateur built" console that was built using John's technique. It took a more than a few hours but was good f/g practise for a neophyte. I am, now more comfortable with f/g although I still hate sanding the damn stuff. I plan to have the canopy interior painted in a couple of weeks by a professional shop. Painting is one thing I don't want to do because I don't the requisite skills or equipment. and expect it to look quite respectable. The "long runs" were fabbed using 3/4" foam about 12" wide. The raised vent holders were fabbed from shaped foam. The holes in mine are for eyeball lights and Steins eyeball vents. Speaking of vents, don't bother with anyone else's vents. I bought some Aveo vents from ACS and sent them back and got Stien's which really are far superior. Cheers Les #40643 - Living in a f/g world -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts Sent: August-19-09 9:36 PM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console I am getting ready to order an overhead console. Anyone have one they REALLY like? or suggest? -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258777#258777 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>


August 09, 2009 - August 20, 2009

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