RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ew
August 09, 2009 - August 20, 2009
between the three signal wires from the trim servo? I looked for some
info from Ray Allen on debugging at that level, without success.
I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would try
the list in case anyone has some insight there.
Thanks,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
You might have fried some of the individual LEDs.
If you apply 12V directly to the indicator input line all LEDs should light.
I don't have the indicator schematic handy but that is how I recall it is
wired.
When you applied 24V you got twice the current going through the elements.
Depending on how long and the current capacity of the diodes they might e
OK. At least one of them is..
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 10:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim indicator
All:
Testing the trim (Safety-Trim) and trim indicator (Ray Allen), I got just
one lit bar, at the far end of the indicator range. (can't tell yet whether
it's the "up" or "down" end) Checking things, somehow I was applying 24
volts to the indictor power! I fixed that, but the result is the same.
Do you think I "toasted" the indicator and now it will only show that one
lit bar at the end of the scale, or is there some debugging I can do between
the three signal wires from the trim servo? I looked for some info from Ray
Allen on debugging at that level, without success.
I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would try the
list in case anyone has some insight there.
Thanks,
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Bowmar" <paul(at)bwbco.com> |
Here is a crimper sold by Plane Innovations LLC for $96.00. Call them at
(435) 826-4662
Paul Bowmar
N67KB RV-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 10:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Crimpers
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone offer up an opinion as to what would be a good choice of a
> crimper for wire terminals? Would like to start with the ring terminals
> and then work up to the pins for DB connectors.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Wing root fairing |
The gold and white rv10 has a nonfiberglass fairing. Does anyone know
where I can get them. Robert Brunkenhoefer 661G corpus christi,
Texas 170hrs
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Wing root fairing |
From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Saint Aviation - Florida.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing root fairing
The gold and white rv10 has a nonfiberglass fairing. Does anyone know
where I can get them. Robert Brunkenhoefer 661G corpus christi,
Texas 170hrs
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: MAP sensor on GRT EIS? |
From: | DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net> |
TDT, It's been a while for me but I don't remember anything special
with the installation. So I would say 12V.
Anh
N591VU-flying
On Sun 08/09/09 4:31 AM , "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy"
tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero sent:
Can anyone say if the Manifold Pressure sensor little box on a GRT
EIS set up gets fed with 12 volts or 5 vollts?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero [1]
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [2]
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [4]
Links:
------
[1] mailto:tdt(at)aurora.aero
[2]
http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST
[3] http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/
[4]
http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: MAP sensor on GRT EIS? |
12volts is correct
David R. Cook
N815DC RV-6
Flying
________________________________
From: DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2009 3:38:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MAP sensor on GRT EIS?
TDT, It's been a while for me but I don't remember anything special with the installation.
So I would say 12V.
Anh
N591VU-flying
On Sun 08/09/09 4:31 AM , "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero
sent:
>
>Can anyone say if the Manifold Pressure sensor little box on a GRT EIS set up
gets fed with 12 volts or 5 vollts?
>
>TDT
>
>Tim Dawson-Townsend
>40025
>tdt(at)aurora.aero
>617-500-4812 (office)
>617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>http://ww://www.matronics.com/contribution" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com================
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Trim indicator |
From: | Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
Does the trim actually move but the indicator does not?
I went out and tested the POS-12 for my flaps and was able to get the
indicator to move as I moved the trim itself, however it stayed in one
position when the trim was not powered/working.
could be a matter of calibrating it as well, if it's on the EFIS or
other component.
Pascal
> All:
>
>
>
> Testing the trim (Safety-Trim) and trim indicator (Ray Allen), I got
> just one lit bar, at the far end of the indicator range. (cant tell
> yet whether its the up or down end) Checking things, somehow I
> was applying 24 volts to the indictor power! I fixed that, but the
> result is the same.
>
>
>
> Do you think I toasted the indicator and now it will only show that
> one lit bar at the end of the scale, or is there some debugging I can
> do between the three signal wires from the trim servo? I looked for
> some info from Ray Allen on debugging at that level, without success.
>
>
>
> I figure RAC will answer my question on Monday, but thought I would
> try the list in case anyone has some insight there.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Subject: | Transponder antenna location |
I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas attached to
the fuselage bottom.
I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'. I
know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center tunnel
near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the rear seat or
baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than
8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced
when they located their transponder antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really
a hard limited from Garmin?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV8 Kit for sale |
Guys-
We lost an RV6 and two souls a few months back in Cottonwood, AZ. Below is
the RV8 Paul-was building. I don't know any of these people but become sa
d when-anyone is harmed by what we love to do.
-
Help find a good home for this aircraft. If I can assist with inspections o
r arrangements let me know.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, RV-10
928.237.1632
-
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
This RV8 was being built by a friend of my brother Ron in Cottonwood, Az.
- Ron's friend, Paul Haynie, was a long time commercial pilot and CFII wh
o-died as a result of a plane crash-a couple of months ago. His widow h
as asked Ron to sell the mostly completed kit.
-
It is an RV8 tail dragger.- I have inspected this plane and the workmansh
ip is flawless.- Paul was even more of a stickler for details in construc
tion-than Ron, and those of you who have seen Ron's-RV7a would understa
nd the significance of this endorsement.
-
It needs an engine, prop, instruments, interior, and someone who appreciate
s craftmanship.- If I had taildragger time and enough room in my hangar I
would buy it to finish and show.
-
If you or anyone you know wants a two year head start on an RV8 call Ron di
rect (tele # below).
-
> RV8 project for sale.- Empennage kit ordered 09/06, Quick Build wings &
> fuselage ordered 08/07 and Finish kit 07/08.
>
> Empennage complete including all tips and transition fairing.- Tail
> strobe/light installed.- Elevator trim installed. Empennage has been fi
tted
> to fuselage.
>
> Quick Build Wings are complete.- Wiring and pitot tube installed.- Pu
sh
> tubes have been fitted and installed.- Wing tips have been
> fitted and are completed including navigation lights, strobes and
> landing/taxi lights installed.
>
> Quick Build Fuselage is about 80% finished.- Brake/rudder pedals are
> installed, brake lines and fuel lines installed and wings have been fitte
d.
> Whelen power supply has been mounted and floorboards are in place.- Can
opy
> frame has been fitted and mounted to fuselage.- Canopy has been fitted
to
> frame and match drilled.- Canopy skirt has been fitted to canopy/fusela
ge.
> Windshield has been fitted to rollbar/fuselage.- Baggage door and seats
are
> finished.- Aileron trim is installed.- Cockpit has been painted with
epoxy
> paint in light gray (the same color as van's powder coated parts).
>
> All parts have been primed with S.W. wash primer.
>
> The workmanship on this aircraft is as good as I have ever seen and I am
> very picky.
>
> The cost of the above kits and extra parts is well over $31,000 plus a 6
to 8
> month order back log from Van's.---Over 1500 hours of very meticulo
us labor
> have been put into this project and can be purchased for $31,000.- You
could
> be flying this RV-8 in six months.
>
> This aircraft is in Cottonwood, Arizona and would have to be picked up
> there.
>
> If interested please contact Ron Burden,- 928-649-2717 or 928-300-1448
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
I never knew of the 8' rule. I did read that 48" (I think, may be more) fr
om any COM antenna was very important which is why I put it aft of the bagg
age compartment and have not had any issues. =0A=0A Scott Schmidt=0Ascottms
chmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom:
Bob Leffler =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mond
ay, August 10, 2009 3:42:44 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Transponder antenna lo
cation=0A=0A =0AI=99m in the process of installing doublers for all o
f=0Amy antennas attached to the fuselage bottom.=0A =0AI understand that th
e transponder antenna coax run should be=0A3=99to 8.8=99. I k
now that some have mounted the transponder antenna=0Ain the center tunnel n
ear the firewall. Others appear to have located it under=0Athe rear seat o
r baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of=0Alonger than
8.8=99, I=99m curious to what issues (or lack thereof)=0Afolks
have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these=0Aa
reas? Is 8.8=99 really a hard limited from Garmin?=0A =0AThanks,=0A
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Wire crimpers for ring terminals, fast-ons, and the like can be bought from several
sources. The important thing is to make sure they are the ratcheting type.
The crimper does not release until it gets a full squeeze. These crimpers
usually have three different dies on them: red, blue and yellow. This corresponds
to the color code on the terminals (wire sizes). Get the best terminals
you can (AMP are good) and don't go cheap on the tool.
Connector pins work differently and depend on the type. The advice to check with
Stein is a good one.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257055#257055
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
Bob,
I don't see the minimum coaxial cable length in the installation manual
(Garmin 327). The maximum 8.8' is for RG 400. On my 9A I have the TED
antenna mounted right besides right gear mount and worked well. I keep
it three feet away from my main COM antenna. There is no interference at
all. On my 10 I will try to run all my antenna cables as short as possible.
Ted Chang
RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
http://3limafoxtrot.com
my flight track:
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
On 8/10/2009 5:42 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas
> attached to the fuselage bottom.
>
> I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to
> 8.8'. I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the
> center tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it
> under the rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a
> coax run of longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack
> thereof) folks have experienced when they located their transponder
> antennas in these areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris and Susie" <vhicy(at)bigpond.com> |
Subject: | Aussie to USA help |
Guys we are coming to USA for a short visit to pick some parts up from Stark
avionics and do Disney world etc. We see there is a shuttle launch on the
12th of November and we will be staying in Jacksonville (Florida) and
thought we could go and have a look. Any advise would be great like , its a
must or don't bother due to crowds etc.Please email direct.
Also can anyone advise on accommodation inside Disney world. Good, bad, ugly
etc.
vhicy(at)bigpond.com
Chris
VH-ICY
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aussie to USA help |
From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Chris,
Many years ago I watched a shuttle launch from Jetty Park, about a mile
south of the launch pad. It was truly awesome. Even at that distance the
sound was amazing, and the image was spectacular. I hope you can make it.
Go early because I remember there was a pretty big crowd.
Dave
On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 6:18 PM, Chris and Susie wrote:
>
> Guys we are coming to USA for a short visit to pick some parts up from
> Stark avionics and do Disney world etc. We see there is a shuttle launch on
> the 12th of November and we will be staying in Jacksonville (Florida) and
> thought we could go and have a look. Any advise would be great like , its a
> must or don't bother due to crowds etc.Please email direct.
> Also can anyone advise on accommodation inside Disney world. Good, bad,
> ugly etc.
>
> vhicy(at)bigpond.com
>
>
> Chris
> VH-ICY
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals
I can't help it. I am a sick man.
Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on this list.
Not an issue
--------
OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
8.8' of RG400, 12.5' of RG304, 17' of RG393.
Some may know that I've had the 'leans' with my GRT EFIS. Initialises
perfectly on the ground with no anomalous heading, but tilts 3-4deg once
airborne. I have my XPDR antenna in the tunnel beneath the fwd baggage
area, with the magnetometer in the 'stock' location on a shelf above and
aft of the battery. Since the XPDR only transmits once airborne ('SBY'
on the ground and automatically enters 'ALT' mode), and the AHRS only
leans in flight, me thinks that perhaps the XPDR antenna is too close to
the magnetometer and may be interfering when responding to a ping . . .
.
Will turn the XPDR off next flight and see what happens.
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, 11 August 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transponder antenna location
In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals
I can't help it. I am a sick man.
Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on
this list. Not an issue
--------
OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092
DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages
attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or copyright
material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They are
for
the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without
the
written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error,
or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return
email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed
a
waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent
that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached
are
error or virus free.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
Ron,
Contact GRT for your lean problem. I don't think it is due to RF
interference. I had that problem 520 hrs ago (at 120 hr). Called GRT and
sent in a log file. They confirmed it was a bad MEMS gyro. They replaced
both my magnetometer and AHRS (must be in pairs). I have no lean
problem ever since.
Ted
Ted Chang
RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
http://3limafoxtrot.com
my flight track:
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
On 8/11/2009 2:46 AM, McGann, Ron wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "McGann, Ron"
>
> 8.8' of RG400, 12.5' of RG304, 17' of RG393.
>
> Some may know that I've had the 'leans' with my GRT EFIS. Initialises
> perfectly on the ground with no anomalous heading, but tilts 3-4deg once
> airborne. I have my XPDR antenna in the tunnel beneath the fwd baggage
> area, with the magnetometer in the 'stock' location on a shelf above and
> aft of the battery. Since the XPDR only transmits once airborne ('SBY'
> on the ground and automatically enters 'ALT' mode), and the AHRS only
> leans in flight, me thinks that perhaps the XPDR antenna is too close to
> the magnetometer and may be interfering when responding to a ping . . .
> .
>
> Will turn the XPDR off next flight and see what happens.
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
> VH-XRM flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Tuesday, 11 August 2009 3:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transponder antenna location
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike"
>
> In Tunnel - under seat - watch out for glowing genitals
> I can't help it. I am a sick man.
>
> Seriously though, the radiation issue was discussed some time ago on
> this list. Not an issue
>
> --------
> OSH '09 or Bust (busted) be there someday
> Q/B Kit - end game
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257092#257092
>
>
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages
> attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or
copyright
> material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They
are for
> the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure,
> copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message
is
> strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without
the
> written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error,
or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return
email,
> delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
> copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed
a
> waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent
> that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached
are
> error or virus free.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
Hi Bob,
I installed mine in the tunnel forward to the firewall. It made the run
very easy and I've had no difficulties that I'm aware of.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Transponder antenna location
I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas
attached to
the fuselage bottom.
I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to
8.8'. I
know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center
tunnel
near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the
rear seat or
baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of longer
than
8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have
experienced
when they located their transponder antennas in these areas? Is
8.8' really
a hard limited from Garmin?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Aussie to USA help |
From: | "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net> |
Just don't plan your trip around the Shuttle launch- Nov is a long ways away and
slips in schedule are fairly common.
Dwight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257124#257124
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Transponder antenna location |
From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
That makes a lot of sense on the limitation. I'll bet 8.8' is a
multiple of the wavelength where they begin to lose significant amounts
of their effective radiated power (erp).
At the 1Ghz frequency range, the amount of signal loss is very high.
The wavelengths are tremendously short and it takes a lot to get the
signal out the other end of the coax and still have enough energy
remaining at the antenna to broadcast a signal.
The rule of thumb for all coax runs is to keep them as short as possible
and to use higher-end coax on the higher frequencies.
It's usually not that big of a deal at the VHF frequencies, but you
still want to keep them fairly short because VHF is still pretty lossy -
But it's nothing like the Ghz frequency range. I've measured power at
the end of a 10' coax run in the 1.2ghz area and that's when it really
sunk in at how much was lost in the coax.
The shorter the better and the lower loss the coax the better.
Phil
From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 4:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Transponder antenna location
I'm in the process of installing doublers for all of my antennas
attached to the fuselage bottom.
I understand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'.
I know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in the center
tunnel near the firewall. Others appear to have located it under the
rear seat or baggage area. Since this appears to require a coax run of
longer than 8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks
have experienced when they located their transponder antennas in these
areas? Is 8.8' really a hard limited from Garmin?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
measured at the axle. Might take more.
Linn
Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>
> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed
> (decelerating on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph
> say. The vibration is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the
> runway and worse with more rather than less flaps put in. We put new
> doughnuts in at the top of the strut, plus the washer Van sends. And
> the plane does better on level serfaces, especially if set with no flaps
> and with some weight in the back.
> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and,
> as I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where
> I am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the
> vibration (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with
> weight distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration
> stops. The vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>
> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in
> the tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was
> some bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for
> the nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail,
> or just the installation of floats?
>
> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>
> And wisdom welcomed.
>
> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
pants.
If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the
problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
the wheel pants.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>
>
> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
> measured at the axle. Might take more.
> Linn
>
> Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the
>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
>> back.
>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as
>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I
>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>>
>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the
>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
>> just the installation of floats?
>>
>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>>
>> And wisdom welcomed.
>>
>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Also the transponder is transmitting in very short bursts, so you'd probably see
those bursts showing up on your magnetometer if this was the issue.
But as Bob said, the airframe is shielding that signal from reaching the magnetometer,
just as it shields your genitals... :) Yeah, just come to think of it,
I put my transponder antenna under the pilot seat... ooops.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257158#257158
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Nine feet of RG-400 loses about 30% of the power at 1 GHz. leaving you with 70%
of what you started with (not counting connector losses). So if you double the
length, to 18 feet, you only get 49% of what you started with to the antenna.
This sounds like a lot (and it is!) but in practice if the shorter length works
okay when you're 100 nm from the radar antenna, then the 18 feet will work okay
when you're within 84 miles (square root of 0.7) of the antenna site. Not really
that much difference.
For years I've flown a 182 with the transponder antenna in the back, more than
9 feet of coax. Always works okay,passes biennial tests. So try to keep lengths
down, but don't worry too much. Do make sure you use good connectors.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257160#257160
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You will find most factory built aircraft will have the transponder and DME
antennas right below the front seat ankle area or just ahead of leading edge
of wing on belly. Why give away power and pay more for cable?
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Nine feet of RG-400 loses about 30% of the power at 1 GHz. leaving you with
> 70% of what you started with (not counting connector losses). So if you
> double the length, to 18 feet, you only get 49% of what you started with to
> the antenna.
> This sounds like a lot (and it is!) but in practice if the shorter length
> works okay when you're 100 nm from the radar antenna, then the 18 feet will
> work okay when you're within 84 miles (square root of 0.7) of the antenna
> site. Not really that much difference.
> For years I've flown a 182 with the transponder antenna in the back, more
> than 9 feet of coax. Always works okay,passes biennial tests. So try to keep
> lengths down, but don't worry too much. Do make sure you use good
> connectors.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257160#257160
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | QB Fuse........ State of Shipment |
From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
So I'm FINALLY getting close to putting my fingers on a QB fuselage.
I've only been waiting for it the be delivered since early December.
Hopefully it'll be here in mid-Sept.
For those of you who received the QB fuse's, approximately what chapter
did they leave off? I'm guessing it's somewhere between 29 and 32.
Yeah, I know to start at the beginning and check box everything, but I'm
also trying to get a handle on where we will realistically be so I can
proactively get a handle on the steps ahead.
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
Subject: | Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino |
I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list
at Chino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar
there. Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern
California that have been blessed for first flights. Unfortunately,
the call came 3-6 months before I actually need it. The airport
manager informed me that I could wait another 2 years for another
hangar if I passed up this opportunity... so I jumped on it.
If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the
garage and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage),
please contact me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease. In the
long haul, I'd love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in
this way.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino |
Hey Jeff, any chance of using/renting some space from time to time when we
fly down to visit family?- We fly out of Lincoln... up in the Sacramento
area.
Thanks, Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 8/11/09, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino
Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 11:23 AM
I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list at C
hino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar there.-
Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern California that ha
ve been blessed for first flights.- Unfortunately, the call came 3-6 mont
hs before I actually need it.- The airport manager informed me that I cou
ld wait another 2 years for another hangar if I passed up this opportunity.
.. so I jumped on it.
If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the gara
ge and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage), please cont
act me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease.- In the long haul, I'
d love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in this way.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose tire
switching back and forth) .... which is what he described .... classic
symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of round ...... you
may be right.
Linn
Bob Turner wrote:
>
> try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Maybe I'm wrong; my observation is most factory planes try to separate the DME
and transponder antennas by as much as they can, since they operate on frequencies
that are nearly the same. That's how you end up with long cable runs to the
transponder. I think most DMEs can even be connected to the transponder, so
they know not to 'listen' when the transponder transmits.
But overall I agree, it's best to minimize the coax runs, especially at a GHz.
Has anyone with a forward mounted antenna had any heat issues, similar to the hot
tunnel issues?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257184#257184
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment |
From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a few
"small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things were done.
There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now that the
parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even removed a few
rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath.
Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with too-long
bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I sure didn't
like it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you look at a few single Cessnas you will find DME and transponder on
opposite sides of the fuselage with maybe 36-40" separation. I'm sure that
is more than a couple wavelengths, and yes I believe there is an
interconnect cable to keep their pulse transmissions separated.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:15 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Maybe I'm wrong; my observation is most factory planes try to separate the
> DME and transponder antennas by as much as they can, since they operate on
> frequencies that are nearly the same. That's how you end up with long cable
> runs to the transponder. I think most DMEs can even be connected to the
> transponder, so they know not to 'listen' when the transponder transmits.
>
> But overall I agree, it's best to minimize the coax runs, especially at a
> GHz.
>
> Has anyone with a forward mounted antenna had any heat issues, similar to
> the hot tunnel issues?
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257184#257184
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment |
From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Certainly raised the question of what level of QA/QC Van's actually does or
does not do when QB assemblies arrive back at Aurora. Sounds like it isn't
much more than looking for dents in the exterior.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a
> few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things
> were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now
> that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even
> removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath.
>
> Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with
> too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I
> sure didn't like it.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few
have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably
smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever and
make it permanent with epoxy.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
pants.
If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the
problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
the wheel pants.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>
>
> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
> measured at the axle. Might take more.
> Linn
>
> Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the
>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
>> back.
>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as
>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I
>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>>
>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the
>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
>> just the installation of floats?
>>
>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>>
>> And wisdom welcomed.
>>
>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino |
Go with the SoCal Rvlist on yahoo if you haven't already. Interestingly,
with the economy the way it is hangars are opening up much faster now, my 7
year wait 1 year ago is now 1 year at Long Beach.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Southern California Builders... Hangar at Chino
>
> I got the call last week that my name had risen to the top of the list at
> Chino Airport and am now the proud Lessee of a very large T-Hangar there.
> Chino is one of a small handful of airports in Southern California that
> have been blessed for first flights. Unfortunately, the call came 3-6
> months before I actually need it. The airport manager informed me that I
> could wait another 2 years for another hangar if I passed up this
> opportunity... so I jumped on it.
>
> If any of you local builders are ready to move your project out of the
> garage and to the airport (or if you know of anyone at that stage),
> please contact me off list to become a co-tenant on the lease. In the
> long haul, I'd love to keep this hangar in the family of builders in this
> way.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
Subject: | Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment |
I would think it wise to develop an "incoming inspection" checklist and go
completely over the quickbuild kit as it comes in. Whether Van's does a
good QA incoming from the Phillipines or outgoing upon shipment to you makes
no difference. You need to make sure the airplane is built compliant with
the plans and to not any discrepancies to Van's. The only way they can fix
their process is to get non-conformance notices from their customers.
I just bought a partially built kit from another builder and I'm doing the
exact same thing.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment
Certainly raised the question of what level of QA/QC Van's actually does or
does not do when QB assemblies arrive back at Aurora. Sounds like it isn't
much more than looking for dents in the exterior.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 2:22 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
IMHO you really do need to go thru everything carefully. There are quite a
few "small" things left undone, in between steps in the manual where things
were done. There are a number of places where dimpling was not done, and now
that the parts are assembled, it's much harder to dimple there. I even
removed a few rivets in the tunnel because they weren't dimpled underneath.
Look it over carefully. My QB wings had the fuel tanks installed with
too-long bolts, compensated with extra washers. I guess this worked, but I
sure didn't like it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257185#257185
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few videos
showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed
increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement
you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying technique helps too. Try
minimize the nose wheel run during take-off and landing will help
improving the situation. I practice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick
back before adding power at take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds.
Keep nose wheel slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift
up when it is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After
landing add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close
to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum braking.
Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do this on my 9A and
after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I don't usually experience
shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel down too early and I
did feel it).
Ted Chang
RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
http://3limafoxtrot.com
my flight track:
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
>
> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few
have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably
smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever
and make it permanent with epoxy.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal"
>
> Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
> pants.
> If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
> problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the
> problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
> the wheel pants.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Linn Walters"<pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Linn Walters
>>
>>
>> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
>> measured at the axle. Might take more.
>> Linn
>>
>> Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wyatt Prunty"
>>>
>>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
>>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
>>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
>>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the
>>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
>>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
>>> back.
>>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
>>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as
>>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
>>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I
>>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
>>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
>>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
>>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>>>
>>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
>>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
>>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
>>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
>>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the
>>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
>>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
>>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
>>> just the installation of floats?
>>>
>>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>>>
>>> And wisdom welcomed.
>>>
>>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
I would love to see someone in a 10 that has the luxury of ADDING power aft
er touchdown to keep the nose wheel in the air.- My problem isn't keeping
the nose in the air, it's getting the plane slowed down enough to GET off
the runway.- My nose wheel is consistently off the runway for over a 1,00
0 ft after touchdown.- This plane just doesn't like to slow down.
Anyone out there able to add power after touchdown?
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 8/11/09, Ted Chang wrote:
From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:46 PM
All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few videos showi
ng the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed increases, the a
mplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement you make on nose wh
eel/strut, different flying technique helps too. Try minimize the nose whee
l run during take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I prac
tice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at take o
ff. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel slightly above runwa
y to accelerate. Airplane will lift up when it is ready (no need to look do
wn for rotation speed). After landing add power as necessary to keep nose w
heel in the air until close to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gent
ly, with minimum braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard.
I do this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I don't
usually experience shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel
down too early and I did feel it).
Ted Chang
RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
http://3limafoxtrot.com
my flight track:
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
ausen.net>
Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A
few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noti
ceably smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, w
hatever and make it permanent with epoxy.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
pants.
If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the
problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
the wheel pants.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
measured at the axle. Might take more.
Linn
Wyatt Prunty wrote:
Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the
strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
back.
We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
(now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as
I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I
am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
(getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the
tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
just the installation of floats?
This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
And wisdom welcomed.
WP flying RV 10 N814BW
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
Subject: | Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door
handle. Any opinions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Futzing with the left side lock
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
I have found holding back on the stick removes the shimmy when I
experience it at times. Robert 661g
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
On Aug 11, 2009, at 3:22 PM, Linn Walters
wrote:
> >
>
> Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose
> tire switching back and forth) .... which is what he described ....
> classic symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of
> round ...... you may be right.
> Linn
>
> Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>> try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure.
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: QB Fuse........ State of Shipment |
From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
No question, except there is a different level of "expectation". Van's is
holding out quick-builds as professionally built to top notch quality, wher
e
buying another builders work, you know it is to some degree amateur built.
Nothing wrong with either, and both should be checked. When one pays a
substantial sum, one expects it built right, with tanks that don't leak.
When Van's treats quick build issues like tank leaks as the builders proble
m
and not something they will fix, there is a problem. Given the number of
folks reporting these problems, either the right person at Vans isn't
getting the information, or is unwilling(or doesn't have authority) to spen
d
the time and effort to eliminate it. For Vans to advertise quick builds as
a
way to save time and worry, only to have you have to worry that things were
skipped or not done right, doesn't speak well of the company.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Richard Bibb wrote:
> I would think it wise to develop an =93incoming inspection=94 checklist
and
> go completely over the quickbuild kit as it comes in. Whether Van=92s do
es a
> good QA incoming from the Phillipines or outgoing upon shipment to you ma
kes
> no difference. You need to make sure the airplane is built compliant wit
h
> the plans and to not any discrepancies to Van=92s. The only way they can
fix
> their process is to get non-conformance notices from their customers.
>
>
> I just bought a partially built kit from another builder and I=92m doing
the
> exact same thing.
>
>
> Richard Bibb
>
> 972-771-2598
>
> 972-835-5979 mobile
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
I'm with you Don, I routinely run a considerable portion of the runout
with the nosewheel off the ground and the stick in my belly trying to
help slow the bird. some of the problem is admittedly my getting used to
landing at a slower speed than previous a/c I've flown.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Don McDonald wrote:
> I would love to see someone in a 10 that has the luxury of ADDING
> power after touchdown to keep the nose wheel in the air. My problem
> isn't keeping the nose in the air, it's getting the plane slowed down
> enough to GET off the runway. My nose wheel is consistently off the
> runway for over a 1,000 ft after touchdown. This plane just doesn't
> like to slow down.
> Anyone out there able to add power after touchdown?
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Tue, 8/11/09, Ted Chang //* wrote:
>
>
> From: Ted Chang <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:46 PM
>
> All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem. There are a few
> videos showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the
> speed increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever
> improvement you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying
> technique helps too. Try minimize the nose wheel run during
> take-off and landing will help improving the situation. I practice
> what Mike Seager taught: hold stick back before adding power at
> take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds. Keep nose wheel
> slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift up when it
> is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After landing
> add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close
> to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum
> braking. Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do
> this on my 9A and after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new. I
> don't usually experience shimming (well, a few times I dropped
> nose wheel down too early and I did feel it).
>
> Ted Chang
> RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
> http://3limafoxtrot.com
> my flight track:
> http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
>
>
>
> On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's.
A few have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably
smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever
and make it permanent with epoxy.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>>
>>
>> Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
>> pants.
>> If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
>> problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves
the
>> problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
>> the wheel pants.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
>>> measured at the axle. Might take more.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
>>>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
>>>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
>>>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of
the
>>>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
>>>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
>>>> back.
>>>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
>>>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and,
as
>>>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
>>>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where
I
>>>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
>>>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
>>>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
>>>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>>>>
>>>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
>>>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
>>>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
>>>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
>>>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in
the
>>>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
>>>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
>>>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
>>>> just the installation of floats?
>>>>
>>>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>>>>
>>>> And wisdom welcomed.
>>>>
>>>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Subject: | Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
I know of at least one other -10 that left off the exterior handle,
but I am not sure why the builder made that decision. Easy access to
both sides of the airplane is one of the improvements over Bonanza/
Mooney/Piper airplanes in my opinion. Having said that, getting to do
it the way you want it is also one of the great things about building
your own!
David Maib
40559
Flying
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On Aug 11, 2009, at 8:37 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and
door handle. Any opinions?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Futzing with the left side lock
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna location |
Wayne, could you please indicate the distance back from-the firewall for
the trasnponder antenna please?=0A=0AAny effect on the antenna as a resut o
f the exhaust?=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299=0ASouth Oz-=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Wayne Edgerton <wayne.e@g
randecom.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, 11 August, 200
9 9:25:57 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder antenna location=0A=0A
=0AHi Bob,=0A-=0AI installed mine in the tunnel forward to the firewall.
It made the run very easy and I've had no difficulties that I'm aware of.
=0AFrom: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> =0ASubject: Transponder anten
na location ----- =0A----- I'm in the process of instal
ling doublers for all of my antennas attached to=0A----- the fuse
lage bottom.=0A----- =0A----- =0A----- I unde
rstand that the transponder antenna coax run should be 3'to 8.8'.-- I
=0A----- know that some have mounted the transponder antenna in t
he center tunnel=0A----- near the firewall.- Others appear to h
ave located it under the rear seat or=0A----- baggage area.--
Since this appears to require a coax run of longer than=0A-----
8.8', I'm curious to what issues (or lack thereof) folks have experienced
=0A----- when they located their transponder antennas in these ar
eas?- Is 8.8' really=0A----- a hard limited from Garmin?=0A-
---- =0A----- =0A----- Thanks,=0A----
- =0A----- =0A----- Bob=0A----- =0A--
========================0A=0A
=0A __________________________________________________________________
________________=0AFind local businesses and services in your area with Yah
oo!7 Local.=0AGet started: http://local.yahoo.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Subject: | Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
Jeff, I'm not sure how far along in your build you are. But heres' some
things to consider:
1. The RV10 is NOT an easy airplane to get into and out of the front
seats with 2 doors. With only one door and having to deal with the
center console it would only aggravate the situation.
2. Think of resale, you may decide that for you and the people that will
fly with you that it's not a big issue. If you keep your plane forever
that will work great, but I believe most folks would look at the lack of
a passenger entry/exit as a negative.
3. After you mount the doors (or the last time), you will necessarily
need to enter/exit the aircraft through the passenger side opening at
least 500 times. this could add more time to your build than you'd
potentially save by not installing them. Not having an external handle
on the outside WILL add time to the mounting and adjustment of the
doors, unless you leave the window out til the end.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door
> handle. Any opinions?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Futzing with the left side lock
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
Ted Chang wrote:
> All nose wheel RVs have nose shimming problem.
They don't have to.
There are a few videos
> showing the front and back vibration of nose gear. As the speed
> increases, the amplitude increases. In addition to whatever improvement
> you make on nose wheel/strut, different flying technique helps too.
If you can't tighten up the spindle nut, then add another set of the
Belleville washers. The way the washers are stacked (back to back,
belly to belly or nested) can also make a difference.
Try
> minimize the nose wheel run during take-off and landing will help
> improving the situation. I practice what Mike Seager taught: hold stick
> back before adding power at take off. Nose will pop up in a few seconds.
> Keep nose wheel slightly above runway to accelerate. Airplane will lift
> up when it is ready (no need to look down for rotation speed). After
> landing add power as necessary to keep nose wheel in the air until close
> to turn off. Remove power to drop the nose gently, with minimum braking.
> Braking hard will push the nose wheel down hard. I do this on my 9A and
> after 640 hrs tire on nose wheel looks new.
All good advice.
I don't usually experience
> shimming (well, a few times I dropped nose wheel down too early and I
> did feel it).
Even that will go away with correct pressure on the spindle washers.
There is a very fine line between tight enough and not being able to
pull the airplane around on the ramp.
Linn
>
> Ted Chang
> RV9A flying, RV10 Wing
> http://3limafoxtrot.com
> my flight track:
> http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
>
>
> On 8/11/2009 6:03 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>> Ya, this is something that has been seen before on at least the RV's. A few
have reported that once the wheel pant was balanced for/aft it was noticeably
smoother. Not terribly difficult to do, just use some shot, nuts, whatever
and make it permanent with epoxy.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:12 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>>
>>
>> Also - balance everything up front. balance the tires and balance the wheel
>> pants.
>> If it were me, I would take the pants off and test it if it still has a
>> problem - balance the wheels- test it and see what happens if it solves the
>> problem put the pants back on and see if the problem returns, if so balance
>> the wheel pants.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:38 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wisdom: Tighten the spindle nut until you get at least 25 lb of drag
>>> measured at the axle. Might take more.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Wyatt Prunty wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Is anyone having trouble with their RV 10 with a slow speed (decelerating
>>>> on landing) shimmy in the nose wheel, 39down to35 mph say. The vibration
>>>> is worse if braking on a down-hill part of the runway and worse with more
>>>> rather than less flaps put in. We put new doughnuts in at the top of the
>>>> strut, plus the washer Van sends. And the plane does better on level
>>>> serfaces, especially if set with no flaps and with some weight in the
>>>> back.
>>>> We have replaced. shave where necessary, and balanced all three wheels
>>>> (now Goodyear Customs), installed the new axel for the nosewheel, and, as
>>>> I said, put a washer in at the top of the strut. Still there is that
>>>> range of a bout 4 mph when slowing that comes right under 40 mph, where I
>>>> am guessing the elevator loses its authority. Braking stops the vibration
>>>> (getting under 30 mph). I am not sure what that does with weight
>>>> distribution, just that is gets us slow enough the vibration stops. The
>>>> vibration is a pronounced shimmy from the nose wheel.
>>>>
>>>> Installing a washer at the top of the nose strut helped for level
>>>> surfaces, it seems, but an undulating runway can get the plane in a nose
>>>> down attitude and at the right speed the shimmy is guaranteed to begin,
>>>> as the plane slows below 40 mph. What about installing two washers at
>>>> the top of the strut, instead of one? Or a small amount of weight in the
>>>> tail? Has anyone changed out the nose strut to see if there was some
>>>> bending in the old one? What's the fix? A heavier duty strut for the
>>>> nose, a second washer in with the doughnuts, a weight in the tail, or
>>>> just the installation of floats?
>>>>
>>>> This plane has an IO540 with a Hartzell CS
>>>>
>>>> And wisdom welcomed.
>>>>
>>>> WP flying RV 10 N814BW
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Filtered Air Box (FAB) alignment |
Thanks in advance to Tim and others who have documented their install.
Can anyone tell me what the two pre-punched or pre-drilled holes in the
VA-131-B Air Box Top Plate are for?
I initially thought it was for alignment of the top plate with the
VA131-C mount plate but that doesn't work. Now I'm thinking they are
just some sort of tooling holes used in Van's fabrication process.
The hole in the rear of the plate seems to be depicted on the "plans".
The hole in the front isn't depicted but would probably be cut out as
part of the carb heat door (which I don't need on my fuel injection setup).
Thanks
Bill "FWF" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09 |
From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I believe once you have the tires & wheel pants balanced plus upgrade
the front axel all that is left is to refine your break out force. I
have all the above mentioned refinements but I notice that I have
significantly more shimmy now at 70 hours than I did at 50 hours. I
believe Tim made his first correction (tightening) to the break out
force around the 50-70 hour time frame to correct the weakening of the
break out force. I also vaguely remember that Tim later reported that he
had to re-adjust this less often after the initial tightening. I plan to
try and use my cool little portable luggage scale
http://www.balanzza.com/ to test and set the break out force for the
firs time since the 10 hour mark.
In regards to slowing down the plane once the mains touch I experience
such tremendous thrust from my stout XIO-540 and BA prop. No different
than controlling taxi speeds at rock bottom idle. The entire package is
so efficient that the plane just wants to accelerate.
Oh, by the way for those that are not flying yet, keep pounding, the
plane is spectacular.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/10/09
I have found holding back on the stick removes the shimmy when I
experience it at times. Robert 661g
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
On Aug 11, 2009, at 3:22 PM, Linn Walters
wrote:
>
>
> Actually makes it worse. Well, if we're talking about shimmy (nose
> tire switching back and forth) .... which is what he described ....
> classic symptoms. If the tire is bouncing due to being out of
> round ...... you may be right.
> Linn
>
> Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>> try running the nose tire at relatively low pressure.
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257153#257153
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door
> handle. Any opinions?
That'll work fine unless you need to help someone get in the pass side
.... get in, reach over and unlatch door, get out and walk around to
help pass .....
But you'll go a little faster.
Linn
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Futzing with the left side lock
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
In the event of a fire, one might reconsider that decision.
I would bet that the building of an amateur approved kit (VANS RV-10)
has some trigger mechanism at DAR interpreted alterations that could go
beyond the initial design and structure intent. I am not one to talk
when it comes to mods to the RV-10, but it sure starts the thoughts
flowing. Oh the thrill of Experiments.
I might bet that you won't go a whit faster than the guys with the flush
mounted handles but you might throw your main tire weight on the left
main tire an ounce or two heavier than the right main.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I'm considering leaving off the right side exterior door lock and door
> handle. Any opinions?
That'll work fine unless you need to help someone get in the pass side
.... get in, reach over and unlatch door, get out and walk around to
help pass .....
But you'll go a little faster.
Linn
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Futzing with the left side lock
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Right Side Exterior Door Lock and Handle |
From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
In the last 3 months we have had 2 planes flip over on landing. One pilot extraction
was a bit tricky. The lesson here is think about off-normal or accident
scenarios. There may be times when you want someone to access the pass side
real fast.
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Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257238#257238
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From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
Subject: | Crushed oil filter |
Here are a couple of pictures of my Kelly oil filter after about 35
hours. There were no engine oil pressure issues or any indication
that there was a problem with the filter. I was using straight
weight Aeroshell 80 and changed the oil in May so there were no cold
starts. I have switched back to Champion filters since that was my
SECOND Kelly filter to collapse. This month's Aviation Consumer has
an article on oil filters and rates the Kelly filter dead last. I
talked with Mattituck's engine guru, Mahlon Russel, at OSH and he
thought the problem was entirely with the filter.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 105 hours