RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fa
September 14, 2009 - September 25, 2009
Shouldn't be a problem. Just get good twist on the wires. There are
several places on my RV-4 with that large a gap in the safety wire. I
assume the bolts are going into threads on the mount? If nuts are used,
just use locknuts (all-metal, due to temperature considerations in the
engine compartment).
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 1:50 PM
| Subject: | Safety wiring the alternator |
I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a 40amp
from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are
like 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts?
Seems long but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
Bill "FWF" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
I usually put a 1/16" hole in the bracket to tie the other end of the safety
wire to.
Dave
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a 40amp
> from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are like
> 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts? Seems long
> but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
>
> Bill "FWF" Watson
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip wiring. |
Thanks Don
That looks like the way to go. I was heading down that path as well.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Infinity grip wiring.
Geoff, here's what I did... really simple.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 9/13/09, aerosport1 wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Infinity grip wiring.
Date: Sunday, September 13, 2009, 4:42 PM
http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=g.combs@aerosportmodeling
.com>
>
I am looking for some good ways to simplify the wiring between the
Infinity
grips, Trim servos, Efis display and safety trim. I have seen some
photos
that showed using sub D plugs or other types that had a junction box or
strip under the seats. Any help or ideas out there. Photos would be
great.
Thanks Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/vibsp;
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262837#262837> -->
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://foru -
List Contribution We -Matt Dralle, Listm/contribution"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
I drilled small holes in the large steel arm holding the alternator
and used shorter safety wire runs....
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 14, 2009, at 2:01 PM, "Jack Phillips"
wrote:
> >
>
> Shouldn't be a problem. Just get good twist on the wires. There are
> several places on my RV-4 with that large a gap in the safety wire. I
> assume the bolts are going into threads on the mount? If nuts are
> used,
> just use locknuts (all-metal, due to temperature considerations in the
> engine compartment).
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Safety wiring the alternator
>
>
>
> I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a
> 40amp
> from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are
> like 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts?
> Seems long but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
>
> Bill "FWF" Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Aztec baffle for Rv-10 |
I am getting an overhauled Aztec Engine (IO-540-C4B5.) and it comes with
the baffles. Anyone know if I can use the baffles from the Aztec on a
RV-10 even if it meant doing modifications?
thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You arrive at this goofy situation, because the certified aircraft the
RV-10 engine is derived from, the Comanche 250/260, AFAIK, came with
Bendix mags and Bendix vibrator, for "shower of sparks" setup. After
Lycoming became a division of Textron, it just wouldn't do to purchase
magnetos from a division of Teledyne Continental...Bendix.
So they had to switch to Unison Slick. There are enough differences,
that when Unison came out with SlickStart, they had to make a separate
Bendix version to use with Bendix mags. My understanding is the Bendix
version is no longer made. You do have the option of getting the
appropriate Bendix vibrator, instead of the Slick Start...but not a
lot cheaper. Probably more history than you wanted.
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 6:54 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
wrote:
I'm now aware of 2 distinctly different
> service letters, several versions of the Slick Start unit itself (pin 2 is
> labeled but gone), and for SL2-96, there's a revision E and F that are
> distinctly different. Handling all these legacy setups in the certified
> aircraft environment looks really challenging for the manufacturers.
>
> For anyone with a stock 540 from Vans, with 2 Slick mags (no electronic
> ignition), and the standard key switch from Spruce, it appears you need to
> add the Slick Start module to the setup (which is not included in the FWF
> kit nor with the engine, nor is it doc'd anywhere I've found), and you need
> to wire it as described below. At least that's the conclusion I've come to
> with a lot of help from quite a few.
>
> Thanks all,
> Bill "developing a true fondness for my Lycosaur and its legacy
> technologies" Watson
>
> Rene wrote:
>>
>>
>> OK, I am no expert....but this is my best guess.........
>>
>> Pin one grounds the Left mag capacitor stud for starting......
>> Pin two does nothing
>> Pin three provides excitation voltage to the retard breaker whenever the
>> starter is engaged.
>> Vin powers the unit only when the starter is engaged
>> GND ....ground for the unit.
>>
>> When using a standard off, right, left, both, start.....starter switch,
>> the
>> right mag is grounded when the key is in the start position. Note, the
>> note
>> to jumper the GND and R... "JUMPER Use when lef mag is retard or breaker
>> mag
>> or has impulse coupling." (See install of acs A-510-2 ignition switch.
>>
>> On back of key switch.
>>
>> L goes to Left mag capacitor (used to ground left mag)
>> LR (Not used)
>> R goes to Right mag capacitor (used to ground Right mag)
>> S goes to start solenoid
>> BO (Not used)
>> Bat goes to battery
>> GND to ground
>>
>> I will see if I can dig up the key wiring......I remember seeing it
>> somewhere.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>> Mauledriver
>> Watson
>> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 8:08 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags
>>
>>
>>
>> I found this which describes my configuration exactly
>> http://alturl.com/dgvt
>> The only difference between what is described above and Fig 3 on page 12
>> of SL2-96 is the connection of terminal 3 to the "left mag retard breaker
>> terminal".
>>
>> Any thoughts? I'm still staring at this stuff.
>>
>> Bill "otherwise cruising along with the FWF work" Watson
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> Table 2 sucks. They make it sound like those are all the possible
>>> combinations, but my setup, for example, isn't listed in Table 2. I have
>>> zero impulse couplings, zero start vibrators, one regular mag, and one
>>> retard mag. I wired mine like Figure 3 on page 12 of this version:
>>>
>>> b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96(E).pdf
>>>
>>
>>
>> <http://b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96%28E%29.pdf>
>>
>>>
>>> I couldn't find anything that talks about a jumper, but if you point it
>>> out I might be able to help clarify that. I suspect that they want it to
>>> ground the other mag during start.
>>>
>>> There's another pub from Unison that says not to connect the same
>>> SlickStart to both mags. I guess they found a possible failure that can
>>> ground both mags at the same time, or at least they're guarding against the
>>> possibility. Good insurance, and mine starts fine on one mag.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 6:21 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
>>>
>>> Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I
>>> can't get through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is
>>> all that came with the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table
>>> that I'm having trouble getting past. I can't figure out which
>>> one applies... and one option (that probably doesn't apply) shows
>>> a jumper that's required on the starter switch.
>>>
>>> I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but
>>> sure would like to cheat first...
>>>
>>> Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It
>>> gets power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is
>>> to the mags.
>>>
>>> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just
>>> a "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a
>>> copy on Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump
>>> on the install, just run a wire from the start solenoid to the
>>> SlickStart, and a ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>>>
>>> F stands for fab, right?
>>>
>>> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>>
>>> >>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
>>> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to
>>> share?
>>> Or something at least close.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still
>>> trying to
>>> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
>>> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aztec baffle for Rv-10 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I wouldn't bank on it. Baffling above the engine is made to fit the
specific cowling. The Aztec cowl is very bulbous, compared to the RV
cowl. If you don't mind doing a LOT of cutting and fitting, you could
do it, but not a real productive use of your time.
You can of course use the intercylinder baffles on the bottom of the cylinders.
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 12:57 PM, Pascal wrote:
> I am getting an overhauled Aztec Engine (IO-540-C4B5.) and it comes with the
> baffles. Anyone know if I can use the baffles from the Aztec on a RV-10 even
> if it meant doing modifications?
> thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Do you have a Mac? |
I need to find a couple folks to test a new RV-10 related site. We've come
across an issue and need to validate whether or not it's a common Mac issue
or localized to one user. If you have a Mac, want to get a sneak peak,
and help us identify this issue, please email me off list.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Drilled #40 holes in the arm about 2" from the bolt. Just did it this past weekend.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263063#263063
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Here are a couple photos to show what I said earlier. The blue tubing is for oxygen.
Bulkhead fittings are used for plug-in points. The bottle sits on the
baggage compartment floor and connects with its own bulkhead fitting. The bottle
is portable for ease of filling and for use in the 6.
Separate your wires to minimize interference and run them where ever you need to.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263081#263081
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/010_2_reduced_409.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/001reduced_290.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | New Service bulletin for GNS 480(CNX80) |
I got this email from Garmin today and I thought I would pass it along.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 108 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip wiring. |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I used a D-sub connector. This area tends to collect dirt with time so if you
use the terminal strip then consider covering it in some way. Connectors are
less susceptible to environmental contamination.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263083#263083
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I forgot to mention one item that made my wiring much neater and easier to manage.
That product is "Click Bond" - the small zip tie attach points are an awesome
product. I spent about $100 on the very pricy attach points - worth every
cent. If they are good enough for Boeing and Northrop - they are good enuf for
me.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263095#263095
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p7052343_484.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
I did something similar. The stock adhesive backing is notorious for letting
go over time on zip tie pads so I pulled the backing off of regular hardware
store pads and used Goop to secure them instead. As long as both surfaces are
clean, I wouldn't expect them to come off very easily.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 11:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Planning Questions
I forgot to mention one item that made my wiring much neater and easier to manage.
That product is "Click Bond" - the small zip tie attach points are an awesome
product. I spent about $100 on the very pricy attach points - worth every
cent. If they are good enough for Boeing and Northrop - they are good enuf for
me.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263095#263095
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p7052343_484.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colm O'Reilly" <colm.oreilly(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do you have a Mac? |
I'm a mac guy, i'd be happy to check out the issue, Safari and firefox.
On Sep 14, 2009, at 19:57, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
> I need to find a couple folks to test a new RV-10 related site. We
> =99ve come across an issue and need to validate whether or not
it=99s
> a common Mac issue or localized to one user. If you have a Mac, w
> ant to get a sneak peak, and help us identify this issue, please ema
> il me off list.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 4425 (20090914) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Scuff the area where the click bond is to be placed. Clean with acetone
(both surfaces) Epoxy in place. Never off.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 5:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Planning Questions
-->
I did something similar. The stock adhesive backing is notorious for
letting go over time on zip tie pads so I pulled the backing off of regular
hardware store pads and used Goop to secure them instead. As long as both
surfaces are clean, I wouldn't expect them to come off very easily.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 11:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Planning Questions
I forgot to mention one item that made my wiring much neater and easier to
manage. That product is "Click Bond" - the small zip tie attach points are
an awesome product. I spent about $100 on the very pricy attach points -
worth every cent. If they are good enough for Boeing and Northrop - they are
good enuf for me.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263095#263095
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p7052343_484.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOP (Lean of Peak) Injector Tuning |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
which James cowl? The regular one or the one for cold air induction? they're slightly
different..
just helped my buddy go through the hoops of getting the injectors tuned, and results
seem to be good.. this is on a -10 /w James cowl + BPE cold air engine..
(2 mags... for now)
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263230#263230
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Phil,
These holes are too big to enlarge and in an awkward location. Use what is there:
get a good fitting rubber grommet to protect the wires then start filling
them up. If you run out of space, drill another hole. Don't sweat it at this
point. Everyone's distribution will be somewhat different so don't try to copy
exactly.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263244#263244
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Phil,
I asked Van's about enlarging the side holes, and they said up to 1" would be OK.
I used a Greenlee punch from the electrical dept. of Home Depot.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263256#263256
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do you have a Mac? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I thought I responded to this already, but I guess not. I'm a Mac guy all the way
back to the 128k back in 1984.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263412#263412
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do you have a Mac? |
| From: | bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
I started with a Mac Plus in 1985/6. I always wanted to turn it into an
aquarium, but the $120 I spent on 4meg of RAM kept me from tearing the guts
out. Finally sold it for $35. MS Flight Simulator 1.0 kept me entertained
when not doing school work!
Bruce Breckenridge
Wings in Limbo
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 3:22 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> I thought I responded to this already, but I guess not. I'm a Mac guy all
> the way back to the 128k back in 1984.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
> Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263412#263412
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi Tim
Cloned the card but no joy - any suggestions. The IDU works fine with
the other card. What's the best / most foolproof way to clone it?
Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: clone Chelton |
I used norton ghost....if you can find someone with the PCMCIA to IDE
adapters.
On Sep 17, 2009, at 2:48 AM, Neil & Sarah Colliver
wrote:
> >
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Cloned the card but no joy - any suggestions. The IDU works fine
> with the other card. What's the best / most foolproof way to clone it?
>
> Neil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
For the wintel world, DriveImage XML is a good free alternative to the Symantec
products.
http://www.runtime.org/driveimage-xml.htm
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: clone Chelton
I used norton ghost....if you can find someone with the PCMCIA to IDE
adapters.
On Sep 17, 2009, at 2:48 AM, Neil & Sarah Colliver
wrote:
> >
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Cloned the card but no joy - any suggestions. The IDU works fine
> with the other card. What's the best / most foolproof way to clone it?
>
> Neil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel
valves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine
on order and get it put on the shelf.
Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the
duplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return
line to send fuel back to the originating tank.
I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great.
Except I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled
and sealed. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to
source) valve?
Thanks
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOP (Lean of Peak) Injector Tuning |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I have the standard inlets, but based on this list and Alan Barrett's
> recommendation I put a small air dam in front of the front injector.
> Raining down here this week so have not flown. Will keep you posted.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> --
Gary,
Any chance of you posting a picture or sending me one. Plane gets out of the paint
shop this weekend if WX cooperates and balancing is one of the items on my
to-do list.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263496#263496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Phil,
You already got several answers on VAF. Do a quick search and you'll find
more of the same here. FS20x7 w/ extender is what is needed for the RV-10.
No, you don't want a duplex. That is for returning fuel to both tanks,
which is not required nor recommended on the IO-540. Don at Airflow
recommends running the purge line to a tee under the right seat just before
the fuel valve. This is used for hot starts. Just set the valve to the
left tank and hot fuel goes back to the right tank.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel valves.
And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine on
order and get it put on the shelf.
Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the duplex
valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return line to
send fuel back to the originating tank.
I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great. Except
I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled and sealed.
Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to source) valve?
Thanks
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
Phil,
Your guess about the duplex valve is correct - dedicated return lines to source
tank.
I had QB tanks on my 6A and put a fitting in the side forward of the fuel guage
sender
all the way in to the second bay. Wasn't a big deal at all.
When I got my duplex valve, I didn't know about the gozillion configurations and
would
have ordered it with -4 fittings for the purge lines and plumbed it back to the
tank that
way - had I known. I got the one that has all(6) AN6 fittlngs - I don't have the
part
number - but like I said, I would have done one set of AN6 and one set of AN4 had
I
known.
My FI is from AFP and the line from the servo to the purge valve, spider, and back
to
the valve is a -4. It converts to a -6 line right before the valve. Check your
FI
system - you might be able to simplify yours like I could have.....
BTW, I oriented my valve such that it points to the left fuel guage when drawing
from
the left tank and points to the right fuel guage when drawing from the right tank.
It
was a PITB to put together - but real simple in flight.
I attached a photo - during construction - hope it isn't stripped off. More pics
if you
want.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
>Sent: Sep 17, 2009 8:23 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
>
>There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
>question on my part.
>
>
>
>First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel
>valves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
>
>
>
>What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine
>on order and get it put on the shelf.
>
>
>
>Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the
>duplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return
>line to send fuel back to the originating tank.
>
>
>
>I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great.
>Except I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled
>and sealed. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to
>source) valve?
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings. No
t really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings BEFORE y
ou install the float level valve. After that it's doable but harder.
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
Date: Thu=2C 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
There=92s a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First=2C I didn=92t realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel va
lves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I=92d like to get mine o
n order and get it put on the shelf.
Also=2C what=92s the difference between the regular Andair valve and the d
uplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return line
to send fuel back to the originating tank.
I=92d like to return the fuel to the original tank=2C that sounds great. E
xcept I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled and se
aled. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to source)
valve?
Thanks
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on digit
al tv's.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv's&form=MSHNCB&publ=W
LHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHNCB_Vertical_Shopping_DigitalTVs_1x1
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I would have definitely changed out the original valve that Vans wassending. Now
they send a nicer valve that doesn't look like the one in my 1965 motor home.
I won't be changing this one out since it has a detent and looks a lot better.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263505#263505
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
Not sure I understand why folks want to do things the hard way.
Precision injection...no return at all.
AFP...return for purge only...minimal flow, just tee into tank line like
Bob Leffler suggested.
You do not actively return fuel to any tank when the engine is running,
unlike Continental engines with TCM injection that return fuel all the
time, so no need to worry which tank your purge returns to.
Danny Riggs wrote:
> I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings.
> Not really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings
> BEFORE you install the float level valve. After that it's doable but harder.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
> From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Theres a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
> question on my part.
>
>
>
> First, I didnt realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel
> valves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
>
>
>
> What model number and configurations did you use? Id like to get mine
> on order and get it put on the shelf.
>
>
>
> Also, whats the difference between the regular Andair valve and the
> duplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return
> line to send fuel back to the originating tank.
>
>
>
> Id like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great.
> Except I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled
> and sealed. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to
> source) valve?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on
> digital tv's. Click here.
> <http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
I thought the exact same thing--that the new stock valve was much better
than the older style.
It was better. Mine lasted about 300 hours. I replaced it with an Andair,
and I'm really glad I did. Night and day.
We work on a lot of planes with a lot of different valves. The Andairs are
bulletproof and worth what they charge.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 7:07 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I would have definitely changed out the original valve that Vans
> wassending. Now they send a nicer valve that doesn't look like the one in
> my 1965 motor home. I won't be changing this one out since it has a detent
> and looks a lot better.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263505#263505
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
Kelly McMullen and Bob Leffler (and Don Rivera at Airflow Performance!)
have it right. There is no need to use the Andair duplex valve. None. No
benefit... just extra plumbing, fittings and complexity.
I have the purge setup in my 7A plumbed through an Andair valve with a 1/4"
line plumbed to a tee fitting in the left tank line (between the tank and
the valve). When using the purge valve for a hot start, you put the fuel
selector to the setting, firewall the throttle and mixture setting,
pull the purge cable to open the purge valve (closing off fuel flow to the
injectors) and engage the boost pump for 30 seconds. During this time, cool
fuel is being pumped from the tank to the fuel servo, up to the
spider (where the purge valve is located), through a fire sleeved return
line to a steel bulkhead fitting at the firewall, where the 1/4" line runs
back to that tee in the left fuel tank line and back into the left tank. 30
seconds of pumping cool fuel through that 1/4" line will only move about a
cup of fuel, but that is sufficient to accomplish the purpose.
After I count to 30, (with boost pump still engaged) push close the purge
valve for a couple of seconds (your now putting fuel out to the injector
lines) and pull open again. Reset the throttle and mixture to full rich
mixture and 1/8" throttle, engage the starter and begin closing the purge
valve and the engine is now running.
Don't bother with a duplex valve, listen to Don, who builds the system.
Bob Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Valves
Not sure I understand why folks want to do things the hard way.
Precision injection...no return at all.
AFP...return for purge only...minimal flow, just tee into tank line like
Bob Leffler suggested.
You do not actively return fuel to any tank when the engine is running,
unlike Continental engines with TCM injection that return fuel all the
time, so no need to worry which tank your purge returns to.
Danny Riggs wrote:
> I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings.
> Not really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings
> BEFORE you install the float level valve. After that it's doable but
harder.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
> From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
> question on my part.
>
>
>
> First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel
> valves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
>
>
>
> What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine
> on order and get it put on the shelf.
>
>
>
> Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the
> duplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return
> line to send fuel back to the originating tank.
>
>
>
> I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great.
> Except I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled
> and sealed. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to
> source) valve?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on
> digital tv's. Click here.
> <http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
When you install the Andair valves , don't forget to segment the tunnel
cover for future access.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings. Not
really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings BEFORE you
install the float level valve. After that it's doable but harder.
_____
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel valves.
And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine on
order and get it put on the shelf.
Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the duplex
valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return line to
send fuel back to the originating tank.
I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great. Except
I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled and sealed.
Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to source) valve?
Thanks
Phil
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on
digital tv's. Click <http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv>
here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
David,
Please elaborate...
It appears to me with the remote extension, the remote selector comes off
easily and isn't a problem with the tunnel cover.
Thanks,
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
When you install the Andair valves , don't forget to segment the tunnel
cover for future access.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings. Not
really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings BEFORE you
install the float level valve. After that it's doable but harder.
_____
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel valves.
And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine on
order and get it put on the shelf.
Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the duplex
valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return line to
send fuel back to the originating tank.
I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great. Except
I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled and sealed.
Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to source) valve?
Thanks
Phil
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on
digital tv's. Click <http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv>
here.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
I've seen mention of the MAP hose (VA-119) yet that is not part of the Van's
list for the FWF kit.
Have people been adding that to their lists?
Thx
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 10:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
>
> You need to make sure that the SS hoses have the molded file sleeve as
> part
> of the hose when there made. It cost a bit more but very important in the
> fwf area for all hoses that pass fluids thru then. I would also make the
> MAP
> hose SS just to make all hoses the same. This is what I did on our
> Saratoga
> and it was worth the cost.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 10:20 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including
> hoses)
>
>
>
> While they may be SS covered Teflon, I'm betting that they are not fire
> sleeved so take that into account when comparing aftermarkets with Van's.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 11:45 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
>
>
> I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what
> to get and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder
> recently got the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon
> coated
> stainless steel braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they
> sent me. Included is the current inventory of the kit.
>
> start of Van's note:
>
> 1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
> are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
>
>
> (2) The Vibration mount we sell are made in the USA by
> "Vibration Isolation Products".
>
>
> (3) I have the list of the RV-10 Firewall Forward kit below for
> you.
>
>
> Best Regards
> Van's
>
>
> FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
>
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
> 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
> 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
> 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
> 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
> 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
> 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
> 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
> 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
> 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
> 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
> 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
> 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
> 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
> 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
> 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
> 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
> 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
> 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
> 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
> 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
> 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
> 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
> 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
> 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
> 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
> 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
> 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
> 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
> 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
> 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
> 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
> 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
> 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
> 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
> 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
> 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
> 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
> 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
> 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
> 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
>
> end of Van's note
>
> First of all it is good to see that they have switched to teflon/SS hoses
> for the fuel and oil lines.
>
> I am not familiar with the "Vibration Isolation Products" engine mount.
> Is
> anyone? It is a division of Pacific Molded Technologies in California.
> Do
> you recommend that I stick with Lord Mounts?
>
> So far it looks like I will stick with Van's hoses and just about
> everything
> else but will drop a couple items. I have another source for a Plane
> Power
> alternator so I will drop it. (They are good alternators and I recommend
> that you use them.) I bought an AirFlow oil cooler from Alex and will
> drop
> it from the kit. I still need to make up my mind on the engine mounts and
> throttle quadrant.
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262432#262432
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
When I received my kit, the tunnel cover was one piece. It is very unhandy
for removal. We segmented the one piece into three. firewall to aft of fuel
selector, then to back of seats , then to aft of flap motor. we also used CS
screws with internal hex head on the center piece to be able remove without
removing flap torque tube covers and front seats.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
David,
Please elaborate...
It appears to me with the remote extension, the remote selector comes off
easily and isn't a problem with the tunnel cover.
Thanks,
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
When you install the Andair valves , don't forget to segment the tunnel
cover for future access.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB wings. Not
really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any fittings BEFORE you
install the float level valve. After that it's doable but harder.
_____
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
There's a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised a
question on my part.
First, I didn't realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel valves.
And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
What model number and configurations did you use? I'd like to get mine on
order and get it put on the shelf.
Also, what's the difference between the regular Andair valve and the duplex
valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return line to
send fuel back to the originating tank.
I'd like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great. Except
I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled and sealed.
Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return to source) valve?
Thanks
Phil
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Dave, What part of the new Van's fuel valve broke after 300 hours?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263575#263575
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
I took it apart twice trying to figure out why it didn't feel crisp and
smooth. After the first time, maybe 250 hours (guessing) I put it back
together and it didn't feel any different. From that point it just kept
getting tighter and less precise. I tried one more time. I never did find
anything that looked wrong, but it sure didn't feel as nice as when it was
new.
I looked at buying a new one since I could buy many Vans valves for the cost
of an Andair. But I eventually figured the effort would catch up to me,
maybe the thing would fail at a bad time, and the tunnel was all apart so I
just bit the bullet.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 1:13 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Dave, What part of the new Van's fuel valve broke after 300 hours?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263575#263575
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I don't like the sound of failing at a bad time. Thanks for the quick reply.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263583#263583
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
Hi
I notice that there are a number of screws in the canopy doors as well as in
the canopy itself. I am wondering what people are doing with respect to
these screws prior to painting. Are they being glassed over or left as is?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - Still in f/g hell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Seatbelt countersink |
HI
I received the mythical, magical, wandering seatbelt countersink today. Does
anyone need it? If so I will send it to you otherwise I will send it back to
Lew (unless Lew wants me to hold onto it until someone else needs it).
Cheers
Les
#40643 - still in f/g hell
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: August-19-09 9:06 AM
Cc: 'Lew Gallagher'
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
Hi Tim
Would you add me to the distribution list for the mythical, magical,
wandering countersink. It is about time it made the trip north of the 49th!
Cheers
Les Kearney
5015 - 154 ST NW
Edmonton, Alberta
T6H 5P1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Screws in Canopy |
Those of us from the Glastar world have about 100 screws to cover up in
the glass work, a small patch of light weight fiberglass cloth over each
screw is the way to make them go away with proper body work.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Hi
I notice that there are a number of screws in the canopy doors as well
as in the canopy itself. I am wondering what people are doing with
respect to these screws prior to painting. Are they being glassed over
or left as is?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - Still in f/g hell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
don't cover them unless you are sure that you will never have to remove them
again.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Those of us from the Glastar world have about 100 screws to cover up in the
glass work, a small patch of light weight fiberglass cloth over each screw
is the way to make them go away with proper body work.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Hi
I notice that there are a number of screws in the canopy doors as well as in
the canopy itself. I am wondering what people are doing with respect to
these screws prior to painting. Are they being glassed over or left as is?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - Still in f/g hell
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seatbelt countersink |
Les=2C
Please add me to the list and next if that works:
Mike Lefever
3235 S. Oleander Drive
Chandler AZ 85248
thanks
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
> Date: Thu=2C 17 Sep 2009 17:10:58 -0600
>
>
> HI
>
> I received the mythical=2C magical=2C wandering seatbelt countersink toda
y. Does
> anyone need it? If so I will send it to you otherwise I will send it back
to
> Lew (unless Lew wants me to hold onto it until someone else needs it).
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - still in f/g hell
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
> Sent: August-19-09 9:06 AM
> To: 'Dawson-Townsend=2CTimothy'
> Cc: 'Lew Gallagher'
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Would you add me to the distribution list for the mythical=2C magical=2C
> wandering countersink. It is about time it made the trip north of the 49t
h!
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> 5015 - 154 ST NW
> Edmonton=2C Alberta
> T6H 5P1
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Screws in Canopy |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Also David forgot to mention what he told me and I totally agree with....stainless
countersink washers on all glass to metal fasteners points...spreads the load
and stops the composite from cracking and spreads the load ...
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:40:08
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
I'll second Davids suggestion. During the final phase you will have
several reasons to reopen the tunnel. Segmenting it can make the process
easier and allow for more direct access. This is PARTICULARLY true if
you plan to install a center console on top of the tunnel, or some
quadrant configurations.
Deems Davis
David McNeill wrote:
> When I received my kit, the tunnel cover was one piece. It is very
> unhandy for removal. We segmented the one piece into three. firewall
> to aft of fuel selector, then to back of seats , then to aft of flap
> motor. we also used CS screws with internal hex head on the center
> piece to be able remove without removing flap torque tube covers and
> front seats.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Leffler
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 17, 2009 11:33 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
>
> David,
>
> Please elaborate
>
> It appears to me with the remote extension, the remote selector comes
> off easily and isnt a problem with the tunnel cover.
>
> Thanks,
>
> bob
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David McNeill
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:03 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
>
> When you install the Andair valves , don't forget to segment the
> tunnel cover for future access.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny Riggs
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Andair Valves
>
> I installed the Andair duplex valve in my -10. I also have the QB
> wings. Not really a problem vis-a-vis the wings if you install any
> fittings BEFORE you install the float level valve. After that it's
> doable but harder.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Andair Valves
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 05:23:35 -0700
> From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Theres a discussion on VAF about the Andair fuel valves and it raised
> a question on my part.
>
> First, I didnt realize there were so many versions of a Andair fuel
> valves. And you have to know which fittings you want on each port.
>
> What model number and configurations did you use? Id like to get mine
> on order and get it put on the shelf.
>
> Also, whats the difference between the regular Andair valve and the
> duplex valve? My guess is that the duplex valve has a dedicated return
> line to send fuel back to the originating tank.
>
> Id like to return the fuel to the original tank, that sounds great.
> Except I will be using QB wings with the fuel tanks already assembled
> and sealed. Does this mean I am not a candidate for a duplex (return
> to source) valve?
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil
>
> * *
> * *
> *ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *ronics.com*
> *ww.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on
> digital tv's. Click here.
> <http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv>
>
> * *
> * *
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Clark" <helosammy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? |
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty much jumped right in with both
feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert stab and
am getting ready to start riveting the rudder. I started on the horizontal
stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener and have come
across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which way to orient the
rivets? It isn't really clear in the plans, I think they should probably
all go the same direction so the side I countersink gives a pretty good clue
to the direction a flush rivet goes. Am I correct in thinking they all go
the same direction or does it matter? I know for the trailing edges I
should alternate direction to help keep things straight. Any insight would
help, thanks in advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Seatbelt countersink |
Mike
You are next on the list. It should be in the mail tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
PS: Thanks Lew for making this happen.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike
Lefever
Sent: September-17-09 7:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
Les,
Please add me to the list and next if that works:
Mike Lefever
3235 S. Oleander Drive
Chandler AZ 85248
thanks
> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
> Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:10:58 -0600
>
>
> HI
>
> I received the mythical, magical, wandering seatbelt countersink today.
Does
> anyone need it? If so I will send it to you otherwise I will send it back
to
> Lew (unless Lew wants me to hold onto it until someone else needs it).
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - still in f/g hell
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
> Sent: August-19-09 9:06 AM
> To: 'Dawson-Townsend,Timothy'
> Cc: 'Lew Gallagher'
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Seatbelt countersink
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Would you add me to the distribution list for the mythical, magical,
> wandering countersink. It is about time it made the trip north of the
49th!
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> 5015 - 154 ST NW
> Edmonton, Al
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Sam,
With 470 rivets you should try to place the head on the thicker material... Direction
has a lot to do with access but if you look real close at the plans it
shows direction...learn well here because later you're on your own....
Rick Sked
N246RS, flyin
Tech counselor to be
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Sam Clark" <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:51:26
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
Hi Rick
Do you have a source / part # for the stainless counter sunk washers? These
Tinnerman washers are similar to ones used on my Cherokee f/g tail cone but
they are not glassed in. See link
http://www.airpartsinc.com/products/ss-tinnerman-c-s-washers.htm Are these
what you are suggesting?
Cheers
Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Screws in Canopy |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Spruce sells them in number 6, 8 and upper sizes...I bought larger ones for the
seatbelts and main axel bolts on the pants....but if I recall Wicks. Sells them
too...they really make a difference in wear and in appearance. I'm getting
ready to paint my pants and fairings and plan to mold them into the glass...got
the idea from Deems who helped a friend do the same..
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:18:57
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
Aircraft spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=04-00398
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=04-00398&search=1>
&search=1
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Hi Rick
Do you have a source / part # for the stainless counter sunk washers? These
Tinnerman washers are similar to ones used on my Cherokee f/g tail cone but
they are not glassed in. See link
http://www.airpartsinc.com/products/ss-tinnerman-c-s-washers.htm Are these
what you are suggesting?
Cheers
Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
Spruce has 2 different kinds... I use the stainless ones... page 96 of the
2008/09 catalog, part # 04-00397, 00392 and 00398.- If you want some of t
he Tinnerman countersunk washers, I'll make someone a special deal on some.
...- the stainless ones are shinier.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Les Kearney wrote:
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 7:18 PM
Hi Rick
-
Do you have a source / part # for the stainless counter sunk washers? -Th
ese Tinnerman washers are similar to ones used on my Cherokee f/g tail cone
but they are not glassed in. See link http://www.airpartsinc.com/products/
ss-tinnerman-c-s-washers.htm Are these what you are suggesting?
-
Cheers
-
Les
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? |
Hi Rick
For clarity, I take it you are referring to the shop (formed) head being on
the thicker material. The "button" or factory head holds the thinner
material. I only mention this because I remember getting confused about the
terminology when I started building.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: September-17-09 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Sam,
With 470 rivets you should try to place the head on the thicker material...
Direction has a lot to do with access but if you look real close at the
plans it shows direction...learn well here because later you're on your
own....
Rick Sked
N246RS, flyin
Tech counselor to be
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: "Sam Clark"
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:51:26 -0400
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty = much jumped right in with both
feet and it seems to be going well so far. I = have finished the vert stab
and am getting ready to start riveting the = rudder. I started on the
horizontal stab spars while waiting for a replacement = rudder stiffener and
have come across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I = know which way
to orient the rivets? It isn't really clear in the = plans, I think they
should probably all go the same direction so the side I = countersink gives
a pretty good clue to the direction a flush rivet goes. Am I correct in
thinking they all go the same direction or does it = matter? I know for the
trailing edges I should alternate direction to help keep = things straight.
Any insight would help, thanks in advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? |
Sam
Here are a couple of things I did to get perfectly straight trailing edges
on my rudder and elevators.
Pix 44 shows how I ensured that the trailing edge wedge was glued securely
to the rudder skin (step 1 page 7-9 of the plans). I reversed one wedge on
top of the wedge to be glued - this gave a flat surface to cleco. To ensure
the wedge was straight and flat, I then held both wedges in place with some
scrap aluminum angle that was clecoed to every hole in the skin.
Pix 39 shows it all clecoed from below).
Pix 201 shows (end on) shows how I clecoed another piece of angle to the
other side when it came time to glue the other side of the rudder on. The
angle ensured that the rudder was glued perfectly straight without any
bowing.
Pix 199 shows an elevator trailing edge all clecoed while the glue was
curing.
After the glue cured, I back riveted the trailing edge as per the plans. In
my case didn't bother alternating the rivets as the trailing edges were all
glued straight.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in f/g hell
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Clark
Sent: September-17-09 7:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty much jumped right in with both
feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert stab and
am getting ready to start riveting the rudder. I started on the horizontal
stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener and have come
across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which way to orient the
rivets? It isn't really clear in the plans, I think they should probably
all go the same direction so the side I countersink gives a pretty good clue
to the direction a flush rivet goes. Am I correct in thinking they all go
the same direction or does it matter? I know for the trailing edges I
should alternate direction to help keep things straight. Any insight would
help, thanks in advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Screws in Canopy |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I'm not sure you got your question answered. There are about 30-40 screws that
bolt the cabin top to the fuselage. These will never come out again, assuming
you followed the plans and epoxied the bugger in place. I am filling them in
with micro-balloons. On the roof of the cabin top are 4 screws that bolt the
window brace, 16 on the hinges, and 2 for the front seat harnesses. I will
leave these alone, just in case.
I use washers under countersunk screws in thin fiberglass (spinner, fairings, etc.)
but see no need for them in the thick glass on the cabin top.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263643#263643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Screws in Canopy |
Rick
Did you embed these in the doors as well and then glass over them? Did you
cover the screw heads?
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: September-17-09 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
Spruce sells them in number 6, 8 and upper sizes...I bought larger ones for
the seatbelts and main axel bolts on the pants....but if I recall Wicks.
Sells them too...they really make a difference in wear and in appearance.
I'm getting ready to paint my pants and fairings and plan to mold them into
the glass...got the idea from Deems who helped a friend do the same..
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: "Les Kearney"
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:18:57 -0600
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws in Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glastar flyer/ RV10 builder |
David,
I think John Jessen has a Glastar.
John: n212pj(at)gmail.com
Paul Grimstad
rv10 450
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 2:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glastar flyer/ RV10 builder
IIRC there was an RV10 builder who was flying a Glastar for fun while
building. If he will identify himself off list I will send pictures of
the use of an RV10 nose fork on the Glastar to improve rough/soft field
performance. Just completed the Glastar mod this morning to 15/600-5
main wheels and a 500-5 nose wheel.
N46007 RV10 190TT
N48007 Glastar 515TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Screws in Canopy |
Thanks Dave
The ones I am really interested are the 6 in the door that hold the guide
blocks and the door mechanism.
The screws in the door openings I plan to glass in as you suggest.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: September-17-09 9:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Screws in Canopy
I'm not sure you got your question answered. There are about 30-40 screws
that bolt the cabin top to the fuselage. These will never come out again,
assuming you followed the plans and epoxied the bugger in place. I am
filling them in with micro-balloons. On the roof of the cabin top are 4
screws that bolt the window brace, 16 on the hinges, and 2 for the front
seat harnesses. I will leave these alone, just in case.
I use washers under countersunk screws in thin fiberglass (spinner,
fairings, etc.) but see no need for them in the thick glass on the cabin
top.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263643#263643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LOP (Lean of Peak) Injector Tuning |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
There's a photo about 6 posts up.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263740#263740
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Dear Listers,
Van's turned me on to a bracket for the RV-10 called the CB-1002-H which is a bracket
for mounting the governor control cable on front mounted governors.
Does anyone have some good pictures of how this bracket is installed? Maybe even
a scan of the baffling installation OP sheet where the RV-10 baffling is described?
Since the IO-390 has a front mounted governor similar to the IO-540 used on the
RV-10, some of these baffling pieces seem to work.
Any docs you could provide would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Matt,
See if this helps.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263786#263786
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/baffle_346.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Hope this helps...lower left of the photo.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 10:58 PM
rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...?
Dear Listers,
Van's turned me on to a bracket for the RV-10 called the CB-1002-H which is
a bracket for mounting the governor control cable on front mounted
governors.
Does anyone have some good pictures of how this bracket is installed? Maybe
even a scan of the baffling installation OP sheet where the RV-10 baffling
is described?
Since the IO-390 has a front mounted governor similar to the IO-540 used on
the RV-10, some of these baffling pieces seem to work.
Any docs you could provide would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Dave,
Now that I am ordering my Andair valve which an fittings work the best with the
ten. Do the banjo fittings work well?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263822#263822
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I think I really screwed up this morning.
28-5 Step 4
"Enlarge the two pre-punched brake line pilot holes to 5/8 diameter"
These are the holes where the brake lines exit the bottom skin at each
landing gear mount.
I drilled the hole in the skins out to 5/8" just as the plans indicated.
While I was there (keep in mind this is a QB), I decided to install the
brake line hardware too as described on 36-2. The AN fitting doesn't
fit through the corresponding hole on the landing gear mount.
After looking at the directions, it says (a second time) to enlarge the
hole to 5/8". I can only assume they're talking about the
corresponding hole in the landing gear, to make room for the AN fitting.
So now I have a 5/8" hole in the bottom skin and in the landing gear
mount.
This is the point where shock set in. I'll bet I wasn't supposed to
drill the landing gear mount to 5/8" and I'll bet the fitting is
supposed to mount to the landing gear - and pass through the skin
untouched.
Now I have a really nice hole that my AN fitting will push right
through. Not to mention a weak point near a very critical structural
component that gets abused (the landing gear).
I think I just bought myself a lot of work, a new right main gear mount,
and a lot of stress.
Someone tell me I didn't....
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
Hey guys, can we follow the new guys lead (gosh, it's kind of nice NOT to b
e the new guy anymore) and put our address and maybe a phone number on the
bottom of each email.=C2- It sure would make it easier to contact each ot
her for both direct questions/responses, and linking up on cross country fl
ights.=C2- What do ya think?
Don McDonald
Lincoln CA=C2- LHM
916-801-8402
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Sam Clark wrote:
From: Sam Clark <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:51 PM
Hello RV-10 builders,
=C2- I have just started building.=C2- I pretty much jumped right in wi
th both feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert
stab and am getting ready to start riveting the rudder.=C2- I started on
the horizontal stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener
and have come across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which w
ay to orient the rivets?=C2- It isn=99t really clear in the plans,
I think they should probably all go the same direction so the side I counte
rsink gives a pretty good clue to the direction a flush rivet goes.=C2- A
m I correct in thinking they all go the same direction or does it matter?
=C2- I know for the trailing edges I should alternate direction to help k
eep things straight.=C2- Any insight would help, thanks in advance.
=C2-
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
=C2-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Phil,
Took a (crappy) picture of my brake line exit. The fitting mounts to the landing
gear bracket and just goes through the skin.
Hopefully someone has a good idea for a fix. It ain't fun to take the landing gear
bracket out.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263829#263829
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brake_exit_141.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
I usually contact offlist if I offer the telephone number; putting them out
each time will provide a lot of unwanted calls from outside the list. If you
doubt, just Google an RV10 topic and watch the RV10list emails pop up.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
Hey guys, can we follow the new guys lead (gosh, it's kind of nice NOT to be
the new guy anymore) and put our address and maybe a phone number on the
bottom of each email. It sure would make it easier to contact each other
for both direct questions/responses, and linking up on cross country
flights. What do ya think?
Don McDonald
Lincoln CA LHM
916-801-8402
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Sam Clark wrote:
From: Sam Clark <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:51 PM
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty much jumped right in with both
feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert stab and
am getting ready to start riveting the rudder. I started on the horizontal
stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener and have come
across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which way to orient the
rivets? It isn't really clear in the plans, I think they should probably
all go the same direction so the side I countersink gives a pretty good clue
to the direction a flush rivet goes. Am I correct in thinking they all go
the same direction or does it matter? I know for the trailing edges I
should alternate direction to help keep things straight. Any insight would
help, thanks in advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
Don;
I might suggest we use Tim Olson's builder (secure) site for this.
Anything that we publish here remains in the public domain for a long
time. The numbers (address and phone) are on his site already. If you
don=99t have access (for builders and fliers only) contact Tim.
Great idea however!
Pascal
From: Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
Hey guys, can we follow the new guys lead (gosh, it's kind of nice
NOT to be the new guy anymore) and put our address and maybe a phone
number on the bottom of each email. It sure would make it easier to
contact each other for both direct questions/responses, and linking up
on cross country flights. What do ya think?
Don McDonald
Lincoln CA LHM
916-801-8402
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Sam Clark wrote:
From: Sam Clark <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:51 PM
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty much jumped right in
with both feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the
vert stab and am getting ready to start riveting the rudder. I started
on the horizontal stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder
stiffener and have come across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I
know which way to orient the rivets? It isn=99t really clear in
the plans, I think they should probably all go the same direction so the
side I countersink gives a pretty good clue to the direction a flush
rivet goes. Am I correct in thinking they all go the same direction or
does it matter? I know for the trailing edges I should alternate
direction to help keep things straight. Any insight would help, thanks
in advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Since none of us have a perfect plane, I would not get too concerned. If it were
me, I would take a thick aluminum plate - put the proper sized hole in the plate
for the AN fitting - then epoxy the plate in place.
At this point in the build - this kind of error will drive you crazy - a year from
now it will be long forgotten.
Also look at the silver lining to this screw up - you will be much more motivated
to make nice soft landings after you are flying.......
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263835#263835
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
No need for the very expensiver banjo fittings. Use the 90 degree Elbow
fittings (AN-6,JIC-6) on the side and male AN-6 on the bottom outlet with a
FS20x 7T valve.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 11:32 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Dave,
> Now that I am ordering my Andair valve which an fittings work the best with
> the ten. Do the banjo fittings work well?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263822#263822
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
Don,
A better idea is to encourage everyone to register on Tim=99s
site, where contact information is secure. I have no problem if any new
RV-10 builder gives me a call looking to get questions answered, but I
prefer to not post my unlisted phone number on a public forum.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
Hey guys, can we follow the new guys lead (gosh, it's kind of nice NOT
to be the new guy anymore) and put our address and maybe a phone number
on the bottom of each email. It sure would make it easier to contact
each other for both direct questions/responses, and linking up on cross
country flights. What do ya think?
Don McDonald
Lincoln CA LHM
916-801-8402
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Sam Clark wrote:
From: Sam Clark <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:51 PM
Hello RV-10 builders,
I have just started building. I pretty much jumped right in with both
feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert stab
and am getting ready to start riveting the rudder. I started on the
horizontal stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener
and have come across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which
way to orient the rivets? It isn=99t really clear in the plans, I
think they should probably all go the same direction so the side I
countersink gives a pretty good clue to the direction a flush rivet
goes. Am I correct in thinking they all go the same direction or does
it matter? I know for the trailing edges I should alternate direction
to help keep things straight. Any insight would help, thanks in
advance.
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Other builders might have more to say here. I didn't use the banjos, just
AN hardware in the threaded ports. I ended up moving my valve forward from
the the stock position about 6 inches so none of my mounting details would
apply to a standard build. I moved it so I wouldn't have to take out a
bunch of the existing plumbing--I just extended what was there from the
stock valve. Now that it's forward a little, almost directly under the
quadrant, I like the placement because it gives a little more room. But, it
doesn't fall quite as easily to hand, which was nice about the stock
position.
There's been a lot of discussion on the valve install. Some are using hoses
instead of the long, complex tubes. I'd consider that too, which would make
the fitting selection easier.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 8:32 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Dave,
> Now that I am ordering my Andair valve which an fittings work the best with
> the ten. Do the banjo fittings work well?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263822#263822
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Beautiful bracketry.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 9:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation
Photos...?
Hope this helps...lower left of the photo.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 10:58 PM
rv8-list(at)matronics.com;
rv7-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...?
Dear Listers,
Van's turned me on to a bracket for the RV-10 called the CB-1002-H which
is
a bracket for mounting the governor control cable on front mounted
governors.
Does anyone have some good pictures of how this bracket is installed?
Maybe
even a scan of the baffling installation OP sheet where the RV-10
baffling
is described?
Since the IO-390 has a front mounted governor similar to the IO-540 used
on
the RV-10, some of these baffling pieces seem to work.
Any docs you could provide would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog Engine
Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Brake line exit holes |
Hi
If you have enlarged a hole in the gear mount, you can avoid having to get a
new one by getting a welding shop to fill in the hole. You can then redrill
to the correct size.
Cheers
Les
#40643 -living in f/g hell
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: September-19-09 9:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake line exit holes
I think I really screwed up this morning.
28-5 Step 4
"Enlarge the two pre-punched brake line pilot holes to 5/8 diameter"
These are the holes where the brake lines exit the bottom skin at each
landing gear mount.
I drilled the hole in the skins out to 5/8" just as the plans indicated.
While I was there (keep in mind this is a QB), I decided to install the
brake line hardware too as described on 36-2. The AN fitting doesn't fit
through the corresponding hole on the landing gear mount.
After looking at the directions, it says (a second time) to enlarge the hole
to 5/8". I can only assume they're talking about the corresponding hole in
the landing gear, to make room for the AN fitting.
So now I have a 5/8" hole in the bottom skin and in the landing gear mount.
This is the point where shock set in. I'll bet I wasn't supposed to drill
the landing gear mount to 5/8" and I'll bet the fitting is supposed to mount
to the landing gear - and pass through the skin untouched.
Now I have a really nice hole that my AN fitting will push right through.
Not to mention a weak point near a very critical structural component that
gets abused (the landing gear).
I think I just bought myself a lot of work, a new right main gear mount, and
a lot of stress.
Someone tell me I didn't..
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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KHRoZSBsYW5kaW5nIGdlYXIpLg0KDQogDQoNCkkgdGhpbmsgSSBqdXN0IGJvdWdodCBteXNlbGYg
YSBsb3Qgb2Ygd29yaywgYSBuZXcgcmlnaHQgbWFpbiBnZWFyIG1vdW50LCBhbmQgYSBsb3Qgb2Yg
c3RyZXNzLg0KDQogDQoNClNvbWVvbmUgdGVsbCBtZSBJIGRpZG7igJl04oCmLg0KDQogDQoNClBo
aWwNCg0KIA0KDQogDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Valves |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Thanks again Dave,
I can get mine on order now.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263856#263856
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok, no telephone numbers.... but boy would it be nice if we new where everybody
was from.
Don
Lincoln, CA LHM
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263864#263864
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Placement |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Guys...
I've mounted my GPS antenna on top of the cabin with the small ovhd console
from Dave Saylor hiding the wiring. This is a TNC connector. The cabin top is
about an inch and half thick here.
Question is what connector. I've ordered a right angle TNC connector from Stein
but it's too short and won't fit through to the antenna. I've searched around
on the web looking for a right angle connector with a longer leg but haven't
stumbled across one.
Then it just hit me that a maybe straight TNC connector would be perfect since
I believe I have enough room for the RG400 to bend.
Or a straight extension would probably work but it'd be another joint in the mix.
SO... those who've mounted the gps antenna on the top of the console, what have
you used for connector and where'd you get it if it is a right angle connector.
Thanks,
Doug
Glued the windows in this morning while it was cool. Windscreen maybe in the morning
before church.... getting there.
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263867#263867
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
I think the info is in Tim's site for builders with a builder number. It
would be nice if Tim's site could be sorted alphabetically as finding
someone there, one has to know the kits status to find the particular
builder.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 2:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
-->
Ok, no telephone numbers.... but boy would it be nice if we new where
everybody was from.
Don
Lincoln, CA LHM
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263864#263864
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Placement |
I opened up the hole to make room for the right angle and then goudges
out about 1/4" of the foan and filled it with flox.
Here's a picture:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07129.html
Deems Davis
www.deemsrv10.com
N519PJ
n277dl wrote:
>
> Guys...
> I've mounted my GPS antenna on top of the cabin with the small ovhd console
from Dave Saylor hiding the wiring. This is a TNC connector. The cabin top
is about an inch and half thick here.
>
> Question is what connector. I've ordered a right angle TNC connector from Stein
but it's too short and won't fit through to the antenna. I've searched around
on the web looking for a right angle connector with a longer leg but haven't
stumbled across one.
>
> Then it just hit me that a maybe straight TNC connector would be perfect since
I believe I have enough room for the RG400 to bend.
>
> Or a straight extension would probably work but it'd be another joint in the
mix.
>
> SO... those who've mounted the gps antenna on the top of the console, what have
you used for connector and where'd you get it if it is a right angle connector.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> Glued the windows in this morning while it was cool. Windscreen maybe in the
morning before church.... getting there.
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263867#263867
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
I would agree that it would be nice to download the info in a xml or excel
file periodically. However, ctrl-f works pretty good to find a specific
builder or somebody in the same geographic area.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 5:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
I think the info is in Tim's site for builders with a builder number. It
would be nice if Tim's site could be sorted alphabetically as finding
someone there, one has to know the kits status to find the particular
builder.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 2:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
-->
Ok, no telephone numbers.... but boy would it be nice if we new where
everybody was from.
Don
Lincoln, CA LHM
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263864#263864
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aerosport Prodducts |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Hey everyone I would like to announce a new website for RV-10 products.
Some items on the website are not available yet but will be soon. I am in the final
days of completing my RV-10 and we need to make sure everything is correct
before we release them for purchase.
The website is www.aerosportproducts.com
I welcome your comments on the products as well as any suggestions
you might have. Also I would like to Thank Bob Leffler for doing the site
I feel he did a great job .
Thanks Bob
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263890#263890
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Placement |
I just used straight.
Tim
On Sep 19, 2009, at 4:59 PM, "n277dl" wrote:
>
> Guys...
> I've mounted my GPS antenna on top of the cabin with the small
> ovhd console from Dave Saylor hiding the wiring. This is a TNC
> connector. The cabin top is about an inch and half thick here.
>
> Question is what connector. I've ordered a right angle TNC
> connector from Stein but it's too short and won't fit through to the
> antenna. I've searched around on the web looking for a right angle
> connector with a longer leg but haven't stumbled across one.
>
> Then it just hit me that a maybe straight TNC connector would be
> perfect since I believe I have enough room for the RG400 to bend.
>
> Or a straight extension would probably work but it'd be another
> joint in the mix.
>
> SO... those who've mounted the gps antenna on the top of the
> console, what have you used for connector and where'd you get it if
> it is a right angle connector.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> Glued the windows in this morning while it was cool. Windscreen
> maybe in the morning before church.... getting there.
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263867#263867
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
My RV8 has numerous antennas mounted under fairings, wingtips, cowling,
etc. and everything works great with full signal strength on the GPS's.
My plan is to build a small bracket that sticks forward of the baggage
bulkhead and mount all the GPS antennas there. The shelf will be above
the removable scalloped panels about 2 inches below the inside of the
canopy, and will not impede the ability to easily remove the upper panel
. The coax cables will 90 degree aft thru the bulkhead and the magic
electrons will happily travel thru the canopy top into space. The
antennas will be so far up that they are out of the way of baggage, and
you won't even see them unless you tried. Someone could even put a cover
over them if wanted. Now no ugly antennas on the cabin top and I can put
all the gps/ nexrad/ etc stuff I want.
OK, so what's the catch? What I miss?
Chris Hukill
still sanding doors and canopy
need a snow shovel to clean up all the dust
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a table or
upright in a stand?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
I did mine upright in the wing stand.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a table
or upright in a stand?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
Did mine flat on the table. Used two people. No problem.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 1:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a table
or upright in a stand?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Watson" <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
I did my wing upright, singlehanded. =C2-Worked well
-- Sent from my Palm Pr=C4=93
Bob Leffler wrote:
I did mine upright in the wing stand.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a table
or upright in a stand?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Phil: We Phil's can hang together, as we make the same mistakes. Look at the
photo attached, which shows how I put a small piece of .035 or .041 with the
correct smaller hole in it, on top of the gear leg flange, put the fitting thru,
and 'twas fixed. the slightly oversize hole in that flange won't cause a problem.
Can't recall whether there is a washer on the underside or not, but the fitting
is solidly attached to the plane now.
Phil White
#40220
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264005#264005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brake_line_hole_patch_sml_198.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
good luck getting a consensus here.. everyone has what works for them and
that is different for everyone. Try a way and see if it works well for you
,
if not, try another way.
John
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:09 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
> I did my wing upright, singlehanded. Worked well
>
> -- Sent from my Palm Pr=C4=93
>
> ------------------------------
> Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>
> I did mine upright in the wing stand.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
>
>
> I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
>
> Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a tab
le
>
> or upright in a stand?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
>
>
> ============ ============
============ ===========
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
T2ggdGhhdCdzIGhlbHBmdWwhISEgIkdvb2QgbHVjayIgV1RGISEgIEkgd2Fzbid0IGdvaW5nIHRv
IHJlc3BvbmQsIGJ1dCBBLWhvbGUgY2hlY2sgaW50ZXJ2ZW50aW9uLiAgSSBkaWQgaXQgc29sbyBv
biB0aGUgd2luZyBzdGFuZC4uLi53b3JrZWQgZ3JlYXQuLi4gVGFrZSB5b3VyIHRpbWUuLi4uLmZv
ciB0aG9zZSBzdGlsbCBidWlsZGluZyB0aGlzIGlzIHN1cmUgZnVuIHRvIGZseS4uLmtlZXAgcG91
bmRpbmcuLi5hbmQgd2lyaW5nIGFuZCBwYWludGluZy4gRXRjLiwgZXRjLC4uLi4uDQoNClJpY2sg
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bGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU3ViamVjdDogUmU6IFJWMTAtTGlzdDogUml2ZXRpbmcgd2lu
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IGhhcyB3aGF0IHdvcmtzIGZvciB0aGVtIGFuZA0KdGhhdCBpcyBkaWZmZXJlbnQgZm9yIGV2ZXJ5
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IGJ5OiAid294b2Zzd2EiIDx3b3hvZkBhb2wuY29tPg0KPg0KPiBJJ20gY2xvc2UgdG8gcml2ZXRp
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Cj4gKg0KPg0KPg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net> |
jeez, Rick - could you tell me what primer I should use?
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:33 PM, wrote:
> Oh that's helpful!!! "Good luck" WTF!! I wasn't going to respond, but
> A-hole check intervention. I did it solo on the wing stand....worked
> great... Take your time.....for those still building this is sure fun to
> fly...keep pounding...and wiring and painting. Etc., etc,.....
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
Upright in wing cradle. One person. See Deem's site for pictures of how to
hold skins with safety wire.
Dave Leikam
----- Original Message -----
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
>
> I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
>
> Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a
> table or upright in a stand?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in keeping
with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that the
pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting that's
necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a surfacer first
because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is really going to
look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat required
can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling? Its not
really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what effects will
the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's probably a high-temp
power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing temp, and that
get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph... Power coating the
baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can you chrome
2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Lol....Kill...brushed on!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 18:04:13
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
jeez, Rick - could you tell me what primer I should use?
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:33 PM, wrote:
> Oh that's helpful!!! "Good luck" WTF!! I wasn't going to respond, but
> A-hole check intervention. I did it solo on the wing stand....worked
> great... Take your time.....for those still building this is sure fun to
> fly...keep pounding...and wiring and painting. Etc., etc,.....
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
I meant Kilz.....fwiw doing the bottom skins is not easy but saying the group is
wishy washy and not worthy of having good feedback about how to do it is BS
James McClow
40195...I think
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Nate Lewis <nlewis(at)wildblue.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 18:04:13
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
jeez, Rick - could you tell me what primer I should use?
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:33 PM, wrote:
> Oh that's helpful!!! "Good luck" WTF!! I wasn't going to respond, but
> A-hole check intervention. I did it solo on the wing stand....worked
> great... Take your time.....for those still building this is sure fun to
> fly...keep pounding...and wiring and painting. Etc., etc,.....
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks for the input. I didn't realize that I had breached "Ginger vs Mary Ann
territory. :)
For some silly reason I thought there would be a clear cut logic based reason for
one particular way. Maybe I'll do one one way and the other the other and
give a detailed pro/con for the next schmuck down the line.
On second thought, the safety wire in the stand sounds intriguing.
That's it. I'm going to do it on the stand. (unless I do it on the table).
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264077#264077
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
40191 but boy do I miss his Life Web Cam.
John Cox
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Sun 9/20/2009 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
I meant Kilz.....fwiw doing the bottom skins is not easy but saying the gro
up is wishy washy and not worthy of having good feedback about how to do it
is BS
James McClow
40195...I think
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Nate Lewis
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 18:04:13 -0700
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
jeez, Rick - could you tell me what primer I should use?
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:33 PM, wrote:
Oh that's helpful!!! "G= ood luck" WTF!! I wasn't going to respond, but A
-hole check interv= ention. I did it solo on the wing stand....worked gre
at... Take your time..= ...for those still building this is sure fun to f
ly...keep pounding...and w= iring and painting. Etc., etc,.....
Rick S.
N246RS
Flying
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=AD=C3=AF=C3=9B=C2=A1=C3=9C=C2-=C3=99=C2=A5
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Matt,
I can't answer your question about powder coating, but I have experience with painting
and anodizing. I painted the baffles on my Pitts with Imron, and they
still look good 25 years later. I had a local shop anodize the baffles on my -10
for $75. I did buff out the deepest scratches and tooling marks first with
Scotchbrite. None of the marks showed through the anodize.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264080#264080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
I wouldn't worry about powder coating the baffling for reasons cited. I'm
making modifications to my RV-4 baffling and am using 5052 cause I have some
lying around and it sure is easier to form.
I wouldn't anodize because, over-time you will have to take the stuff off a
couple of times and it will get scratched. At least with paint or powder if
you do scratch it you can touch it up easier than having to send the whole
piece out for re-anodizing. That would get expensive with all the lot
charges.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 10:02 PM
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Painting The Baffling...
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in
keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that
the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting
that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a
surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is
really going to look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's
probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing
temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph...
Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting wing skin |
I haven't riveted skins on a -10 wing yet but on my RV-4 I did one in the
stand and one on a table. I preferred the table as gravity held the rivets
in place before I got the gun on them and I avoided picking up all that fell
on the floor.
Also, there used to be a school of thought to slightly heat the skins before
final riveting so that, as they cooled post riveting, they would be tighter.
Not sure if that actually works but I did rivet one set of -4 wings
horizontal on saw horses outside in the sun and they turned out nice. Had
to be careful not to get burned as the skins sure got warm in a hurry.
Since you are in Arizona you might not want to try that.
Obviously it turns out to be a personal preference and at least no one has
started a flame war on this one yet - skirmish perhaps but hardly classified
as a minor engagement let alone full hostilities.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 2:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a table
or upright in a stand?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263994#263994
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
Wow, did not mean to get you all riled up, I just was trying to let they gu
y
know that there is not one approach to doing this. I myself set it up righ
t
on the bench, but as you can see other people did it other ways. I was
trying to let the builder know that it is ok to try out different technique
s
and find out which worked best for them. The one thing that is nice about
this group is they all bring their unique way of solving a problem and give
other builders options that they might not have thought of or tried.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 8:33 PM, wrote:
> Oh that's helpful!!! "Good luck" WTF!! I wasn't going to respond, but
> A-hole check intervention. I did it solo on the wing stand....worked
> great... Take your time.....for those still building this is sure fun to
> fly...keep pounding...and wiring and painting. Etc., etc,.....
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> Flying
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> ------------------------------
> *From*: John Trollinger
> *To*:
> *Subject*: Re: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
> good luck getting a consensus here.. everyone has what works for them and
> t= hat is different for everyone.=C2- Try a way and see if it wor
ks well
> for= you, if not, try another way.
>
> John
>
> On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 5:09 PM, Bill Watson wro
> te:
>
> I did my wing upright, singlehanded. =C2-Worked well
>
> <= span> -- Sent from my Palm Pr=C4=93
>
> ------------------------------
> Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> --> RV10-List me= ssage posted by: "Bob Leffler"
>
> I did mine upright in the wing stand.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:58 PM
> To: rv10-l= ist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Riveting wing skin
>
>
> I'm close to riveting my first QB wing skin.
>
> Is the consensus of the brain trust that it is easier to do flat on a t
> able
> or upright in a stand?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D263994#263= 994
>
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
> * get=3D"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://fo
rums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution *
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
Acutally, I thought I discerned a pattern - on the bench for 2 people
and upright for 1. FWIW, I can't imagine how 1 person does it on the
bench but I'm sure someone did.
Another thanks to Deems for the safety wire pics. I forgot where I saw
that but it worked like a charm. Like so many jobs, it's very
satisfying once it's done.
Note that you may need to file down the leading edge of the skin just a
bit so that it clears the leading edge skins when it's riveted on.
Bill
woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I didn't realize that I had breached "Ginger vs Mary Ann
territory. :)
>
> For some silly reason I thought there would be a clear cut logic based reason
for one particular way. Maybe I'll do one one way and the other the other and
give a detailed pro/con for the next schmuck down the line.
>
> On second thought, the safety wire in the stand sounds intriguing.
>
> That's it. I'm going to do it on the stand. (unless I do it on the table).
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264077#264077
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
Actually I was able to do my RV-4 wings by myself on the bench. I have long
arms and was able to reach from the rear spar to the front to buck the row
of rivets where the skin attaches to the front spar. It wasn't really all
that much of a stretch as I recall. I don't think the -10 wing will be all
that different in that regard.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Riveting wing skin
Acutally, I thought I discerned a pattern - on the bench for 2 people
and upright for 1. FWIW, I can't imagine how 1 person does it on the
bench but I'm sure someone did.
Another thanks to Deems for the safety wire pics. I forgot where I saw
that but it worked like a charm. Like so many jobs, it's very
satisfying once it's done.
Note that you may need to file down the leading edge of the skin just a
bit so that it clears the leading edge skins when it's riveted on.
Bill
woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I didn't realize that I had breached "Ginger vs
Mary Ann territory. :)
>
> For some silly reason I thought there would be a clear cut logic based
reason for one particular way. Maybe I'll do one one way and the other the
other and give a detailed pro/con for the next schmuck down the line.
>
> On second thought, the safety wire in the stand sounds intriguing.
>
> That's it. I'm going to do it on the stand. (unless I do it on the
table).
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264077#264077
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I wish someone would summarize the old primer wars arguments(reader's
digest style, so to speak), just so that the newbies, and not so
newbies could decide which way to go, without a need to relight the
arguments, and whether those of us that didn't bother to research
could decide whether we need to give up our corroding parts carcass
and start over. ;-))
On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 12:29 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I didn't realize that I had breached "Ginger vs Mary Ann
territory. :)
>
> For some silly reason I thought there would be a clear cut logic based reason
for one particular way. Maybe I'll do one one way and the other the other and
give a detailed pro/con for the next schmuck down the line.
>
> On second thought, the safety wire in the stand sounds intriguing.
>
> That's it. I'm going to do it on the stand. (unless I do it on the table).
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264077#264077
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 09/20/2009 11:02 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can you
chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
>
I've seen chrome colored baffling. I can't tell you if it was
chromed, or just chrome colored paint, but it did indeed look super
cool. :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I don't have my documentation with me this morning and I can't seem to
find Section 4 on Tim's site.
Does anyone know if the main gear mounts are 4130? I think I've found
an aircraft welder who can patch the hole for me, but I'd like to be
certain of the material first.
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil White [mailto:philwhite9(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake line exit holes
Phil: We Phil's can hang together, as we make the same mistakes. Look
at the photo attached, which shows how I put a small piece of .035 or
.041 with the correct smaller hole in it, on top of the gear leg flange,
put the fitting thru, and 'twas fixed. the slightly oversize hole in
that flange won't cause a problem.
Can't recall whether there is a washer on the underside or not, but
the fitting is solidly attached to the plane now.
Phil White
#40220
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264005#264005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brake_line_hole_patch_sml_198.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
You can't chrome aluminum....
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Painting The Baffling...
On 09/20/2009 11:02 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
>
I've seen chrome colored baffling. I can't tell you if it was
chromed, or just chrome colored paint, but it did indeed look super
cool. :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake line exit holes |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Got the answer for those who are wondering. (Or for those who might
search the archives later.)
1) Yes, it is 4130.
2) Unfortunately the mount has been heat treated. So touching the thing
with a welder is not a good idea for fear of weakening the structure.
3) Van's doesn't believe there is a structural issue with the hole, but
they're running it by engineering to check.
4) The proposed solution from Van's is to insert a bushing into the hole
and then a large flat washer on top to hold it into position.
Once we reach a resolution, I'll send the fix for the archives.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Brake line exit holes
I don't have my documentation with me this morning and I can't seem to
find Section 4 on Tim's site.
Does anyone know if the main gear mounts are 4130? I think I've found
an aircraft welder who can patch the hole for me, but I'd like to be
certain of the material first.
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil White [mailto:philwhite9(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake line exit holes
Phil: We Phil's can hang together, as we make the same mistakes. Look
at the photo attached, which shows how I put a small piece of .035 or
.041 with the correct smaller hole in it, on top of the gear leg flange,
put the fitting thru, and 'twas fixed. the slightly oversize hole in
that flange won't cause a problem.
Can't recall whether there is a washer on the underside or not, but
the fitting is solidly attached to the plane now.
Phil White
#40220
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264005#264005
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brake_line_hole_patch_sml_198.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skin |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I did it laid down horizontally; one person, short arms.
Whatever works for you.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264183#264183
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I used a clear coat on my RV-6 baffles and 9 flying years later it does not look
that good. It has yellowed somewhat and the baffles do move around a bit leaving
rub marks. I don't know if paint holds up better but it sounds like it.
I recall that it took a lot of persuasion to get the baffles in place, which
will scratch any paint. You also need to RTV the gaps. I don't know why you
would need to remove the baffles frequently. I have not ever and don't anticipate
it for another 10 years.
Whatever you use needs to hold up to bugs and heat. The engine paint does not
hold up well either (at least Lycoming gray) so it will look good under the hood
for only a short time. Unless you are building a show plane I would not worry
much about it. Few people will ever see it.
If you are building a show plane then go nuts (like the rest) and get it gold plated.
Or better yet use carbon fibers and make a pressure cowl, then gold plate
that. Or better yet write a big check and have someone else do it.
Sorry about that last comment - I could not help myself.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264192#264192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
I powder coated them after they were built. Not my idea but a have seen
I
few do this and they look great and seem to hold up well.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 4:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Painting The Baffling...
I used a clear coat on my RV-6 baffles and 9 flying years later it does
not
look that good. It has yellowed somewhat and the baffles do move around
a
bit leaving rub marks. I don't know if paint holds up better but it
sounds
like it. I recall that it took a lot of persuasion to get the baffles
in
place, which will scratch any paint. You also need to RTV the gaps. I
don't know why you would need to remove the baffles frequently. I have
not
ever and don't anticipate it for another 10 years.
Whatever you use needs to hold up to bugs and heat. The engine paint
does
not hold up well either (at least Lycoming gray) so it will look good
under
the hood for only a short time. Unless you are building a show plane I
would not worry much about it. Few people will ever see it.
If you are building a show plane then go nuts (like the rest) and get it
gold plated. Or better yet use carbon fibers and make a pressure cowl,
then
gold plate that. Or better yet write a big check and have someone else
do
it.
Sorry about that last comment - I could not help myself.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264192#264192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | operators handbook rv10 |
i have a io540 , afs 3500, trutrak dgsv, and 1 lightspeed ignition w/
backup alternator. does anyone out there have a handbook i can adapt
for my little 661G ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet direction? Important comment!!!! |
Gotcha Bob... Pascal already updated me on the list on Tim's site.=C2- Ma
ybe we should provide some directions as to how their info can be updated.
=C2- I know several that are on the list without updated info, and some t
hat aren't even on the list.
Thanks again, Don
--- On Sat, 9/19/09, Bob Leffler wrote:
From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009, 9:39 AM
Don,
=C2-
A better idea is to encourage everyone to register on Tim=99s site, w
here contact information is secure.=C2- I have no problem if any new RV-1
0 builder gives me a call looking to get questions answered, but I prefer t
o not post my unlisted phone number on a public forum.
=C2-
Bob
=C2-
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet direction? Important comment!!!!
=C2-
Hey guys, can we follow the new guys lead (gosh, it's kind of nice NOT to b
e the new guy anymore) and put our address and maybe a phone number on the
bottom of each email.=C2- It sure would make it easier to contact each ot
her for both direct questions/responses, and linking up on cross country fl
ights.=C2- What do ya think?
Don McDonald
Lincoln CA=C2- LHM
916-801-8402
--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Sam Clark wrote:
From: Sam Clark <helosammy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet direction?
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 6:51 PM
Hello RV-10 builders,
=C2- I have just started building.=C2- I pretty much jumped right in wi
th both feet and it seems to be going well so far. I have finished the vert
stab and am getting ready to start riveting the rudder.=C2- I started on
the horizontal stab spars while waiting for a replacement rudder stiffener
and have come across a bit of a perplexing question, how do I know which w
ay to orient the rivets?=C2- It isn=99t really clear in the plans,
I think they should probably all go the same direction so the side I counte
rsink gives a pretty good clue to the direction a flush rivet goes.=C2- A
m I correct in thinking they all go the same direction or does it matter?
=C2- I know for the trailing edges I should alternate direction to help k
eep things straight.=C2- Any insight would help, thanks in advance.
=C2-
Sam Clark
Lexington Park, MD
=C2- =C2- =C2-get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Na
vigator?RV10-List=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.comblank rel=nofollo
w>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://foru
ms.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt;
I don't see any reason why the baffling wouldn't hold up being powder
coated. I think it would look cool. It also would be easier to clean
the front dams where they get all bugged up.
It's just money......
Dr Fred.
515FW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
| From: | "rleffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> |
You may want to check out Geoff's website and see all the new interior panels and overhead console. These weren't shown at Oshkosh. His website is: www.aerosportproducts.com.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264388#264388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Bob
You did a great job on the web site.
John G. Cumins
40864 Trim Tabs soon to be emp.
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 3:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
You may want to check out Geoff's website and see all the new interior
panels and overhead console. These weren't shown at Oshkosh. His website
is: www.aerosportproducts.com.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264388#264388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
I used the new web site email address to communicate to the company. Haven'
t gotten any response back. Anybody know if they are home? Really nice look
ing panels. I want some!!
> From: jcumins(at)jcis.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
> Date: Tue=2C 22 Sep 2009 16:27:01 -0700
>
>
> Bob
>
> You did a great job on the web site.
>
> John G. Cumins
> 40864 Trim Tabs soon to be emp.
>
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
> Sent: Tuesday=2C September 22=2C 2009 3:01 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
>
>
> You may want to check out Geoff's website and see all the new interior
> panels and overhead console. These weren't shown at Oshkosh. His webs
ite
> is: www.aerosportproducts.com.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Wings
> RV-10 #40684
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264388#264388
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Microsoft brings you a new way to search the web. Try Bing=99 now=0A
http://www.bing.com?form=MFEHPG&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFEHPG_Core_ta
gline_try bing_1x1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Any 10 encounters with ice that can be shared. I plan to take a late fall
trip and might encounter. Having flown (reluctantly) some ice in my C177RG
over the past 30 years, it would be nice to know how the 10 reacts with rime
or clear?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I installed my aluminum heater boxes and even held them into position
with proseal - per the plans.
Now I'm having second thoughts for a couple of reasons.
1) They're aluminum and should they melt, there is a great hole to
blast a fire up the tunnel and over the fuel.
2) The proseal has a flashpoint of ~200 degrees.
I plan on popping these boxes off and replacing with stainless boxes.
Q) What material did you use to seal them? I could use Red RTV, but I'm
thinking firewall sealer (brand?) is a better option.
I'm also thinking of installing a thermal barrier between the boxes and
the firewall. Maybe just a bed of firewall sealer, or a box-sized
square of thermal insulation.
Q) Anyone else do that?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dogsbark(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
Phil,
The stainless boxes I installed came with a small tube of sealer that was r
ated to 1,600 degrees.=C2- I think some RTV is rated to 600 degrees.=C2
- Can't remember what firewall proseal is rated, but all of these are bet
ter than regular proseal.
Don't forget to install the two nutplates on the heater boxes for the cable
s before installation.
Sean Blair
COS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:53:22 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountai
n
Subject: RV10-List: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
I installed my aluminum heater boxes and even held them into position with
proseal =93 per the plans.
Now I=99m having second thoughts for a couple of reasons.
1) =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- They=99re aluminum and should they
melt, there is a great hole to blast a fire up the tunnel and over the fuel
.
2) =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The proseal has a flashpoint of ~200 degr
ees.
I plan on popping these boxes off and replacing with stainless boxes.
Q) What material did you use to seal them?=C2- I could use Red RTV, but I
=99m thinking firewall sealer (brand?) is a better option. =C2-
I=99m also thinking of installing a thermal barrier between the boxes
and the firewall.=C2- Maybe just a bed of firewall sealer, or a box-size
d square of thermal insulation.
Q) Anyone else do that?
Thanks,
Phil
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
Phil; A couple of weeks ago we went through a thread on the benefits of
SS. I mentioned for the exact reason you covered that having SS is a
good investment.
To save you the time- http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20heater.htm.
The heater bypass comes with a seal so you don't need to worry about
RTV.
I have a pair and it's a great product!
Pascal
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 7:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
I installed my aluminum heater boxes and even held them into position
with proseal - per the plans.
Now I'm having second thoughts for a couple of reasons.
1) They're aluminum and should they melt, there is a great hole to
blast a fire up the tunnel and over the fuel.
2) The proseal has a flashpoint of ~200 degrees.
I plan on popping these boxes off and replacing with stainless boxes.
Q) What material did you use to seal them? I could use Red RTV, but I'm
thinking firewall sealer (brand?) is a better option.
I'm also thinking of installing a thermal barrier between the boxes and
the firewall. Maybe just a bed of firewall sealer, or a box-sized
square of thermal insulation.
Q) Anyone else do that?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
I just used the sealant that comes with the stainless parts from plane
innovations.
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
I installed my aluminum heater boxes and even held them into position
with proseal - per the plans.
Now I'm having second thoughts for a couple of reasons.
1) They're aluminum and should they melt, there is a great hole
to blast a fire up the tunnel and over the fuel.
2) The proseal has a flashpoint of ~200 degrees.
I plan on popping these boxes off and replacing with stainless boxes.
Q) What material did you use to seal them? I could use Red RTV, but
I'm thinking firewall sealer (brand?) is a better option.
I'm also thinking of installing a thermal barrier between the boxes
and the firewall. Maybe just a bed of firewall sealer, or a box-sized
square of thermal insulation.
Q) Anyone else do that?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
You probably won't like my answer since my 10 is not flying, but knowing if a plane
(not made for icing) does kind of okay is probably best not knowing. There
have been several Cirrus aircraft that was legal for inadvertent icing encounter
and crashed from it. Now the new Cirrus are certified for known icing.
I fly a Citation Jet for a company and maybe I don't know enough but you never
can tell how much ice is going to accumulate on the aircraft. I personally
believe it is a very hard question to answer and to try not to get in icing.
If you think the plane will do okay in it, it may persuade you to stay in it.
Having said all of that I have been in icing in a plane not made for it. I got
out of it as soon as I could.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264537#264537
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I used a thick (1/8 in) silicone gasket under the heater box. This idea came from
Tim (I think) as an unverified way to minimize heat transfer into the tunnel.
Sounded like a good idea.
Since the sealant is not part of the fire barrier per se, I don't think it matters
a lot. High temp RTV should work fine.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264542#264542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
Mine came with the attachments, I think Paul updated them. Call Paul at
Plane innovations and ask him.
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
Phil,
The stainless boxes I installed came with a small tube of sealer that
was rated to 1,600 degrees. I think some RTV is rated to 600 degrees.
Can't remember what firewall proseal is rated, but all of these are
better than regular proseal.
Don't forget to install the two nutplates on the heater boxes for the
cables before installation.
Sean Blair
COS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:53:22 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada
Mountain
Subject: RV10-List: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
I installed my aluminum heater boxes and even held them into position
with proseal =93 per the plans.
Now I=99m having second thoughts for a couple of reasons.
1) They=99re aluminum and should they melt, there is a great
hole to blast a fire up the tunnel and over the fuel.
2) The proseal has a flashpoint of ~200 degrees.
I plan on popping these boxes off and replacing with stainless boxes.
Q) What material did you use to seal them? I could use Red RTV, but
I=99m thinking firewall sealer (brand?) is a better option.
I=99m also thinking of installing a thermal barrier between the
boxes and the firewall. Maybe just a bed of firewall sealer, or a
box-sized square of thermal insulation.
Q) Anyone else do that?
Thanks,
Phil
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Having flown a Cessna in the Midwest (OK,MO,IL,IN) during all seasons. One
sets some ground rules. If one is going to fly during the winter in the
Midwest the aircraft is going to accept minimal icing or accept some very
hazardous VFR underneath. My rules are no continuous flight in icing
conditions. No flight near freezing rain. I do accept that I may have to
endure 3-5 minutes of climb in IMC to get on top. I may have to accept 3-5
minutes of ice on the approach. Of course the approach must be certainty
(well above minimums). I also refuse clearances that will take me into icing
until I am ready. SGF approach once offered a lower altitude at 30NM out. My
then current temperature was a +2C and the SGF surface temperature was -8C.
I refused the descent until vectored and cleared for the ILS approach about
7NM out). At 120KIAS to the marker and then 90KIAS, my exposure to ice would
be about 4 minutes. Conditions on the surface were 500 and 2. Yes I picked
up some ice during the approach but the runway was long the approach speed
was +20KIAS above normal landing speed. I now live in the mountainous west
where MEAs are very high and would guarantee icing in IMC except for a few
summer months. The rules out here are VFR underneath unless the freezing
levels are above freezing at the planned altitude.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ice
You probably won't like my answer since my 10 is not flying, but knowing if
a plane (not made for icing) does kind of okay is probably best not knowing.
There have been several Cirrus aircraft that was legal for inadvertent icing
encounter and crashed from it. Now the new Cirrus are certified for known
icing. I fly a Citation Jet for a company and maybe I don't know enough but
you never can tell how much ice is going to accumulate on the aircraft. I
personally believe it is a very hard question to answer and to try not to
get in icing. If you think the plane will do okay in it, it may persuade
you to stay in it. Having said all of that I have been in icing in a plane
not made for it. I got out of it as soon as I could.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264537#264537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
For those that moved the fuel flow transducer between the servo and
the spider, how and where exactly did you mount it? Pictures would be
even better!
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 FWF and Wiring
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Another vote here for Paul at:
http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20wheelpant.htm
Paul is great and VERY helpful. I consider the heater valves a must option
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264663#264663
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer |
Have these too! I know the manufacturer of these personally and he makes
quality products. Think there was a hinge cover in development, waiting for
my order to arrive but I think I'll be equally happy with that product as
well.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Heater Boxes / Firewall Sealer
>
> Another vote here for Paul at:
>
> http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20wheelpant.htm
>
> Paul is great and VERY helpful. I consider the heater valves a must option
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264663#264663
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport wrote:
> For those that moved the fuel flow transducer between the servo and
> the spider, how and where exactly did you mount it? Pictures would be
> even better!
>
Here is a link to a picture where I put mine. It is where AFS recommends putting
it.
http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/FF4-FuelSystem/100_3208.html
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264676#264676
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FireWall Engine Side Paint? |
| From: | "conradb" <conradbooze(at)cox.net> |
F.Y.I. => I am wondering if the engine side of the Firewall will get hot. I noticed
that nobody paints the engine side of the Firewall except me. (I did not
like bare stainless steel) My question is I applied a shinny epoxy that has
a 200 degree F. upper heat temp. I am thinking unless I want to smell cooked
or "burnt" paint I need to remove this low temp. paint and replace with a 1200
degree F. or greater barbeque or engine block type paint. Am I on the right
track removing the paint or am I O.K. with the 200 degree paint.
--------
Conrad Booze
Sr. Engineer
P. O. Box 7028
Warner Robins, GA. 31095
(478)-335-4264
conradbooze(at)cox.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264680#264680
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com> |
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get feedback
from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are any of
you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
charging all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting
to fly for a while, or only when it's winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
My plane has a Sony AM/FM/CD/MP3 player in it that sucks juice all the time.
I use a BatteryHawk that SafeAir1 sells to keep my PC680 charged almost all of
the time. I haven't tried going a week without it yet......It's a smart trickle
charger that I built in during construction.....
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 37 hrs
Collecting RV10 parts on the side.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
>Sent: Sep 24, 2009 12:25 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Chargers
>
>What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
>Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
>charging all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting
>to fly for a while, or only when it's winter, etc.
>
>
>
>Please share your thoughts.
>
>
>TDT
>
>
>
>
>Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
>Aurora Flight Sciences
>
>tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
>617-500-4812 (office)
>
>617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location. No real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
I left mine in the standard position. I see very minor fluctuations....I do
not think it is a problem.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I am using a 925, and have a trickle charger. I only use it when I am
leaving the master switch on (without the engine running J) for an extended
period of time.
I have not had a problem starting even on very cold days.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Chargers
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle charging
all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly for a
while, or only when it's winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standard location
(tunnel) if you can accept some variability in flow indications when the
electric fuel pump is on. With that being said, mine sits BEFORE the flow
divider on top of the air box in the picture below. It is not flying yet
but in my Cardinal it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFORE the servo
and very stable.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2g.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Nick Leonard wrote:
>
> As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
> feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
> any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
>
> How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
> problems?
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I'm using the BatteryMinder 12248 for my Odyssey batteries. There was a
write-up in one of the mags a few months back comparing different chargers
and this one looked to be the best. It will charge any style lead acid bat
tery and also desulphates. They will say on their site that you should get
their "special" charger for Odyssey batteries but it only has a single pro
file in it for Odyssey AGM batteries.
I spent a bunch of time looking at the information on the "special" charg
er vs. the 12248 which will charge flooded, AGM, and gel batteries and coul
d not find a difference in the Odyssey vs. the AGM profiles that made it wo
rthwhile. I also run the Odyssey in my motorcycle and ATV but I wanted the
options and I have been very happy with it.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Chargers
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using Ody
ssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle charging a
ll the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly for a
while, or only when it's winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I was just thinking about that yesterday and came across this.
"Unlike conventional batteries that need to be recharged every six to twelv
e
weeks, the Odyssey battery will maintain up to 50% state of charge after 2
yrs if stored at room temperature (77=BAF). At temperatures lower than 77
=B0F,
storage times will be even longer"
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/odysseydry.php
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <
tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isn=92t?), and was wondering if folks are trickle cha
rging
> all the time when you=92re in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly
for a
> while, or only when it=92s winter, etc.
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I leave my birds on the trickle charge almost all of the time .....
exception is when I'm in a hurry to lock up or just plain forget.
Linn
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isnt?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
> charging all the time when youre in the hangar, only when not expecting
> to fly for a while, or only when its winter, etc.
>
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
No problem with the Vans location. Engine is certified IO540D4A5.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 9:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
no trickle charger but I use 1 or 2 680s in parallel for starting. 2 680s
turn prop rapidly.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 9:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Chargers
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle charging
all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly for a
while, or only when it's winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Been using battery tender on both of my PC 680's constantly as
recommended in light plane maintenance magazine.
Their research convinced me to keep mine plugged up when not flying.
grumpy
N184JM
On Sep 24, 2009, at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am
> using Odyssey PC680s (who isn=92t?), and was wondering if folks are
> trickle charging all the time when you=92re in the hangar, only when
> not expecting to fly for a while, or only when it=92s winter, etc.
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Aurora Flight Sciences
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ande Boyer <ande.boyer(at)gmail.com> |
Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/investigation"
phase of my RV-10 ;-)....
It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard equipment. Why i
s
this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not hold a charge? Or is
there some kind of current leak?
I've got a Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o running it an
d
it always cranks up just fine.
Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and have
already learned so much.
Thanks,
Ande Boyer
Huntsville, AL
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <
tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isn=92t?), and was wondering if folks are trickle cha
rging
> all the time when you=92re in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly
for a
> while, or only when it=92s winter, etc.
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
"Pilots are a rare kind of human. They leave the ordinary surface of the
world, to purify their soul in the sky, and they come down to earth, only
after receiving the communion of the infinite." - Jos=E9 Maria Velasco Ibar
ra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
I'm still in the shop but my GRTs have an "always on" circuit I guess
for the clock. So I plan to generally stay on trickle.
I installed an internal jack in the baggage compartment for this purpose.
Bill "building the engine sensing birds nest" Watson
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isnt?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
> charging all the time when youre in the hangar, only when not
> expecting to fly for a while, or only when its winter, etc.
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Sensing wire birds nest - any good pics on wire management |
I'm putting in the EGT and CHT lines and it looks pretty straight
forward. I have the sensor leads in place but I'm wondering exactly how
to route and clamp the lines from the GRT coming through the firewall to
hook up to the sensor leads.
Anyone have a picture of how they did it? I've been searching but can't
quite find a good pic of that part. Seems straight forward but looking
for additional ideas.
Thanks Scott S. for the good photos of your engine compartment.... very
clean like the rest of your ship!
Bill "taming the latest birds nest" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
In my case it is not a battery leak per se....rather something that is always on......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ande Boyer <ande.boyer(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 24, 2009 1:23 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
>
>Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/investigation"
>phase of my RV-10 ;-)....
>
>It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard equipment. Why is
>this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not hold a charge? Or is
>there some kind of current leak?
>
>I've got a Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o running it and
>it always cranks up just fine.
>
>Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and have
>already learned so much.
>
>Thanks,
>Ande Boyer
>Huntsville, AL
>
>
>On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <
>tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote:
>
>> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
>> Odyssey PC680s (who isnt?), and was wondering if folks are trickle charging
>> all the time when youre in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly for a
>> while, or only when its winter, etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Please share your thoughts.
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>>
>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>>
>> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>>
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>>
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>===========
>===========
>===========
>===========
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>"Pilots are a rare kind of human. They leave the ordinary surface of the
>world, to purify their soul in the sky, and they come down to earth, only
>after receiving the communion of the infinite." - Jos Maria Velasco Ibarra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
You better quit investigating ..... it'll cost ya!!!
The reasons for using trickle chargers varies amongst the users. For me,
I don't mount the charger in the airplane .... I like the mobility of
using them elsewhere. For me, the reason I use the trickle charger on
all my flooded/gel batteries is to prolong their use. The desulfator
option is important, and you should pay the price.
The RV-10 is no different .... battery wise .... than any vehicle that
doesn't get daily/weekly use ....... leaving the trickle charger off
will shorten it's useful life. IMHO, of course.
Linn
Ande Boyer wrote:
> Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/investigation"
> phase of my RV-10 ;-)....
>
> It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard equipment.
> Why is this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not hold a charge?
> Or is there some kind of current leak?
>
> I've got a Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o running it
> and it always cranks up just fine.
>
> Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and have
> already learned so much.
>
> Thanks,
> Ande Boyer
> Huntsville, AL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Van's location with no issues on an IO-540-C4B5. I get some minor
fluctuations (.2 gph) at times. I only notice this when adjusting to
LOP operations. Not nearly bothersome enough to consider moving it at
this point in time. If I had steam gauges instead of a digital
readout, I doubt that I would even notice it at all.
David Maib
40559
Flying/150 hours
On Sep 24, 2009, at 1:06 PM, David McNeill wrote:
No problem with the Vans location. Engine is certified IO540D4A5.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 9:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally
suggested. Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote:
> I think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standard location
(tunnel) if you can?accept some variability in flow indications when the electric
fuel pump is on.? With that being said, mine sits BEFORE the flow divider
on top of the air box in the picture below.? It is not flying yet but in my Cardinal
it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFORE the servo and?very stable.
> ?
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2g.html (http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2g.html)
> ?
> William
William,
If the transducer in your picture is from AFS, contact them. Mine leaked around
the gasket on the cover plate. There was a recall from the mfg and they replaced
mine right away. That was my only real problem during my fly off. Took
me some time to identify where the leak was coming from. The transducer in my
picture is the old one. The new one does not have that little filled slot on
the cover.
I am sure glad I had moved the transducer from the tunnel to north of the firewall.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264743#264743
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Ande,
No current or voltage demands. The Rv is no =C2- different than any other
aircraft except most don't meet the requirments of a certified aircraft, t
hey exceed them! . The reason most of us have chargers is the time we spent
setting up the avionics, doing systems checks, learning the new equipment
etc etc,,,,in other words lots of battery time doing that. Plus most of us
tend to be tool hogs so it's another good excuse to blow 50 bucks on antoeh
r piece of equipment.
Rick Sked
N246RS
Air officially under butt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ande Boyer" <ande.boyer(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:23:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/investigation" ph
ase of my RV-10 ;-)....
It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard equipment. Why i
s this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not hold a charge?=C2- Or
is there some kind of current leak?
I've got a=C2-Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o running
it and it always cranks up just fine.
Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and have al
ready learned so much.
Thanks,
Ande Boyer
Huntsville, AL
=C2-
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy < tdawson-townsen
d(at)aurora.aero > wrote:
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy?=C2- I am usin
g Odyssey PC680s (who isn=99t?), and was wondering if folks are trick
le charging all the time when you=99re in the hangar, only when not e
xpecting to fly for a while, or only when it=99s winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ttp://forums.ma
tronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
"Pilots are a rare kind of human. They leave the ordinary surface of the wo
rld, to purify their soul in the sky, and they come down to earth, only aft
er receiving the communion of the infinite." - Jos=C3=A9 Maria Velasco Ibar
ra
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
Hi Ande,
The care and feeding of batteries (especially as panels are less
likely to have vacuum pump instruments) is an important part of safe
flying. An RV-10, with a long distance from the battery to the
starter, requires a well charged battery to start. Most of us aren't
able to fly consistently, so a trickle charger is appealing. However,
all trickle chargers are not created equally, and one that over
charges will damage the battery.
If you are not a member of the Aeroelectric list
(aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
) moderated by Bob Nuckolls, I suggest you become one. There is a
mountain of discussion of this issue in the archives over there and
the knowledge you'll gain is well worth the time spent.
Jeff Carpenter
40304... still fitting doors and windows
On Sep 24, 2009, at 10:23 AM, Ande Boyer wrote:
> Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/
> investigation" phase of my RV-10 ;-)....
>
> It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard
> equipment. Why is this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not
> hold a charge? Or is there some kind of current leak?
>
> I've got a Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o
> running it and it always cranks up just fine.
>
> Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and
> have already learned so much.
>
> Thanks,
> Ande Boyer
> Huntsville, AL
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am
> using Odyssey PC680s (who isn=92t?), and was wondering if folks are
> trickle charging all the time when you=92re in the hangar, only when
> not expecting to fly for a while, or only when it=92s winter, etc.
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> --
> "Pilots are a rare kind of human. They leave the ordinary surface of
> the world, to purify their soul in the sky, and they come down to
> earth, only after receiving the communion of the infinite." - Jos=E9
> Maria Velasco Ibarra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Question, Why the teflon tape or pipe sealent? Why aluminum fitting into th
e transducer?
JP instruments and I suggest never ever use that stuff on the transducer. A
nd it would be a lot better if you had a straight out fitting from the tran
sducer. Not the ninety. Good book to read Is the JPI installation manual. I
think it''s the second page where it says, read this first.
But that just my opinion and we all have one.
-Patrick Thyssen
But then I too made a mistake and bought OP Equiptment And now I'm fixing t
hat.
Dual 430w and garmin G500. Now I know they will work.--
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis wrote:
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 11:56 AM
I think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standard locatio
n (tunnel) if you can-accept some variability in flow indications when th
e electric fuel pump is on.- With that being said, mine sits BEFORE the f
low divider on top of the air box in the picture below.- It is not flying
yet but in my Cardinal it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFORE the ser
vo and-very stable.=0A=0A-=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2
g.html=0A-=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/=0A
-=0AOn Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Nick Leonard wr
ote:
=0A
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get fe
edback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. -Ar
e any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
=0A
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
=0At Un/Subscription,
=0Awww.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
=0AMatt Dralle, List Admin.
=0A====
=0A
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Nope, just standard equipment in my shop. Using it regularly can just be c
hocked up to preventative maint. A fully charged battery will outlive one
that is allowed to sit at a reduced capacity every time.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ande Boyer
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
Here's a noob question for you guys (I'm in the "prebuild/investigation" ph
ase of my RV-10 ;-)....
It sounds like you guys have a battery charger as standard equipment. Why i
s this? Does the battery that goes in the RV-10 not hold a charge? Or is t
here some kind of current leak?
I've got a Warrior atm and we have no problem going weeks w/o running it an
d it always cranks up just fine.
Just wondering.....I've only been on this list for about 3 days and have al
ready learned so much.
Thanks,
Ande Boyer
Huntsville, AL
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy > wrote:
What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using Ody
ssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle charging a
ll the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting to fly for a
while, or only when it's winter, etc.
Please share your thoughts.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
"Pilots are a rare kind of human. They leave the ordinary surface of the wo
rld, to purify their soul in the sky, and they come down to earth, only aft
er receiving the communion of the infinite." - Jos=E9 Maria Velasco Ibarra
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window trim - inside |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group...
Linda and I glued the windows and wind screen in permanently last weekend using
Weldon 10. Worked much easier with cooler temps ... below 70 in the garage
early in the morning than when we did the doors a few months back. (I put one
bottle of weld10 in the fridge overnight and it seemed to be even a little
slower to set up)
These turned out pretty well. On the outside of the windows, I'll use some lite
weight cloth to fair the transition from plexi to fiberglass.
What are the options on the inside of the windows where the weldon - plexi - fiberglass
cabin frame meet? Mine's not terrible and I attempted to smooth out
the fair with weldon but it could be smoother and more consistent. Is there
any kind of caulking that will smooth the transition?
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264780#264780
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Guess you did not read the caption above the photo regarding the aluminum
fitting. NPT fittings benefit from sealant, AN fittings do not. The inlet
to the flow transducer is NPT. As far as the 90 degree fitting out from the
transducer, well that's what I have now on the Cardinal and it works just
fine. The instrument I have in the Cardinal is Electronics International,
the OEM for the "red cube" transducer so no, I never read nor plan to read
the JPI manual.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 2:47 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
> Question, Why the teflon tape or pipe sealent? Why aluminum fitting into
> the transducer?
> JP instruments and I suggest never ever use that stuff on the transducer.
> And it would be a lot better if you had a straight out fitting from the
> transducer. Not the ninety. Good book to read Is the JPI installation
> manual. I think it''s the second page where it says, read this first.
> But that just my opinion and we all have one.
> Patrick Thyssen
>
> But then I too made a mistake and bought OP Equiptment And now I'm fixing
> that.
> Dual 430w and garmin G500. Now I know they will work.
>
>
> --- On *Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis * wrote:
>
>
> From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 11:56 AM
>
> I think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standard
> location (tunnel) if you can accept some variability in flow indications
> when the electric fuel pump is on. With that being said, mine sits BEFORE
> the flow divider on top of the air box in the picture below. It is not
> flying yet but in my Cardinal it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFORE
> the servo and very stable.
>
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2g.html
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Nick Leonard http://mc/compose?to=nick@nleonard.com>
> > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
>> feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
>> any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
>>
>> How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
>> other problems?
>>
>> --------
>> Nick Leonard
>> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
>> t Un/Subscription,
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ====
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lisk" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> gt; <http://www.matronics.com/======%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%3C/font%3E%3C/b%3E%3Cfont+color=>*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Window trim - inside |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
For window interior, maybe Geoff Coombs from Aerosport Products (
www.aerosportproducts.com) can be convinced to add close-out rings to his
product suite. They would, cover the Weld-On fiberglass edge, cover the
edges of any headliner, and they would match the other interior plastic
panels that he offers.
For those that have not glued in the windows yet, tongue depressors and
Dixie cups worked great. I used these and applied a thin layer to the
fiberglass then the window and then put into position--no crazing, no
leaking.
Also, you can get a Pint kit of Weld-On #10 from eplastics.com, Enough to
do ALL windows at a very good price.
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Multipurpose-Glue/WELD-ON-GLUE-IPS10-PT
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 3:48 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Group...
> Linda and I glued the windows and wind screen in permanently last weekend
> using Weldon 10. Worked much easier with cooler temps ... below 70 in the
> garage early in the morning than when we did the doors a few months back.
> (I put one bottle of weld10 in the fridge overnight and it seemed to be
> even a little slower to set up)
>
> These turned out pretty well. On the outside of the windows, I'll use some
> lite weight cloth to fair the transition from plexi to fiberglass.
>
> What are the options on the inside of the windows where the weldon - plexi
> - fiberglass cabin frame meet? Mine's not terrible and I attempted to
> smooth out the fair with weldon but it could be smoother and more
> consistent. Is there any kind of caulking that will smooth the transition?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find
> ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264780#264780
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I watched the discussion on AeroElectric and read lots of things
at other places about charging my Odyssey PC925, and spent a bunch
of time reading before I bought a charger. Michael's right, that
12248 would eb a great way to go, and it's supposely got a great
voltage curve for charging the Odyssey.
What I did for myself though was a little different. I got
a larger charger, that costs a bit more. I had been looking for
Odyssey specific chargers, and wanted to make sure I did the best
I could to charge at the right voltage. There is an Odyssey
labeled charger that looks exactly like the Schumacher
Speed Charge 1200A, which WalMart also sells. The difference I
think is that the Odyssey doesn't have the variety of
charging profiles. I got one off Ebay really really cheap,
and got one at WalMart too, so now I use them at home and
at the hangar.
Here is a link:
http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1200a.html
A few weeks ago I got fired up to verify that this was really
the same, so I sent Schumacher an email asking if they had
the same charge curve, and they said they were the same.
I'm assuming I'd use AGM mode, so that's what I've been
using. It's more expensive of a charger than you have
to have, but it can charge other batteries too.
I plug mine in sometimes if I have a big trip coming up,
and want to ensure I've got a perfect charge, and I
charge it during the winter when I don't fly as often.
In the summer though, I generally don't charge it.
I suppose I connect the charger maybe 10 times a year.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Im using the BatteryMinder 12248 for my Odyssey batteries. There was
> a write-up in one of the mags a few months back comparing different
> chargers and this one looked to be the best. It will charge any style
> lead acid battery and also desulphates. They will say on their site
> that you should get their special charger for Odyssey batteries but it
> only has a single profile in it for Odyssey AGM batteries.
>
>
>
> I spent a bunch of time looking at the information on the special
> charger vs. the 12248 which will charge flooded, AGM, and gel batteries
> and could not find a difference in the Odyssey vs. the AGM profiles that
> made it worthwhile. I also run the Odyssey in my motorcycle and ATV but
> I wanted the options and I have been very happy with it.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:26 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Chargers
>
>
>
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isnt?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
> charging all the time when youre in the hangar, only when not expecting
> to fly for a while, or only when its winter, etc.
>
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> ; - The RV10-List Email Forhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.===============
>
> < Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
As others have noted with the transducer installed in the tunnel prior
to the mech fuel pump and after the elect boost pump, you WILL see
errroneous readings during the period the elect fuel pump is operated.
From my experience you will ALSO see significant fluctuations in the
fuel flows. (+/- .5 gph) during the normal course of operations this
sin't too much of an issue. However if you are trying to balance your
fuel injectors or troubleshooting a fuel system issue and want to
collect accurate datam to a .1 of a gph, you will get VERY frustrated.
Save yourself some frustration and mount it between the servo and the
distribution spider.
Deems Davis
www.deemsrv10.com
N519PJ
Nick Leonard wrote:
>
> As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get feedback
from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are any of
you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
>
> How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other problems?
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Sensing wire birds nest - any good pics on wire |
management
You can find some pictures in this album :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FFPS%20Probes%20and%20Sensors/index.html
Deems Davis
N519PJ
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> I'm putting in the EGT and CHT lines and it looks pretty straight
> forward. I have the sensor leads in place but I'm wondering exactly
> how to route and clamp the lines from the GRT coming through the
> firewall to hook up to the sensor leads.
>
> Anyone have a picture of how they did it? I've been searching but
> can't quite find a good pic of that part. Seems straight forward but
> looking for additional ideas.
>
> Thanks Scott S. for the good photos of your engine compartment....
> very clean like the rest of your ship!
>
> Bill "taming the latest birds nest" Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus. Only irregluarity comes
when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
Ron McGann
Head of Engineering
Security Solutions & Services
Aerospace
Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location. No
real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thane States" <thane2(at)comporium.net> |
One should never consider even being dispatched, if there were a chance for
icing conditions. I fly for a living and I would never fly my RV-10 near
ice. period
How many lessons do we need to look back at to understand it is not worth
the risk.
Just me 2 cents, fly safe and have fun
Thane States
321BY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ice
>
> You probably won't like my answer since my 10 is not flying, but knowing
> if a plane (not made for icing) does kind of okay is probably best not
> knowing. There have been several Cirrus aircraft that was legal for
> inadvertent icing encounter and crashed from it. Now the new Cirrus are
> certified for known icing. I fly a Citation Jet for a company and maybe I
> don't know enough but you never can tell how much ice is going to
> accumulate on the aircraft. I personally believe it is a very hard
> question to answer and to try not to get in icing. If you think the plane
> will do okay in it, it may persuade you to stay in it. Having said all of
> that I have been in icing in a plane not made for it. I got out of it as
> soon as I could.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264537#264537
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
A very smart friend of mone turned me on to a charger called a "Battery Min
der".=C2- Look it up online.=C2- Cost around $50.=C2- Not only trickl
e charges, but sends out pulses that keep sulfides from forming.=C2- The
friends 210 has not replaced his battery in over 10 years... whereas before
they seemed to last 3 or 4 years.=C2- I use them on cars=C2-stored, mo
torcycles, boats, and my plane.
Don McDonald
Plane parked.... on the boat......... wishing I was flying!=C2-
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Linn Walters wrote:
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:03 AM
I leave my birds on the trickle charge almost all of the time ..... excepti
on is when I'm in a hurry to lock up or just plain forget.
Linn
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy?=C2- I am us
ing Odyssey PC680s (who isn=99t?), and was wondering if folks are tri
ckle charging all the time when you=99re in the hangar, only when not
expecting to fly for a while, or only when it=99s winter, etc.
>
>=C2-
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>=C2-
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>=C2-
> *
>
>
> *
S WEB FORUMS -
on Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
Avoid using the Battery Tender on sealed aircraft batteries. It chewed
up two Concorde=99s in less than a year before I wised up
(afterwards I also switched to the PC925). I would recommend going with
a charger that was specifically designed for that type of battery:
http://www.batteryminders.com/specials.php
Brian
RV-10 N104BS
Nashville, TN
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
A very smart friend of mone turned me on to a charger called a "Battery
Minder". Look it up online. Cost around $50. Not only trickle
charges, but sends out pulses that keep sulfides from forming. The
friends 210 has not replaced his battery in over 10 years... whereas
before they seemed to last 3 or 4 years. I use them on cars stored,
motorcycles, boats, and my plane.
Don McDonald
Plane parked.... on the boat......... wishing I was flying!
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Linn Walters wrote:
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:03 AM
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> >
I leave my birds on the trickle charge almost all of the time .....
exception is when I'm in a hurry to lock up or just plain forget.
Linn
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am
using Odyssey PC680s (who isn=99t?), and was wondering if folks
are trickle charging all the time when you=99re in the hangar,
only when not expecting to fly for a while, or only when it=99s
winter, etc.
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tdt@aurora.aero>
http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tdt@aurora.aero> >
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
This is going to be the way I secure my charger to my battery. Only the best for
my RV-10.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264861#264861
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cid_bb830754_a37e_47b7_8a1a_8aa9c2caae31_599.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
-I'LL STAND BY MY STATEMENT WITH THE ADDED INSERT, EI MAKE INSTALLATION M
ANUALS ALSO. THEY REFERENCE AC43-13 ALSO. YOUR LOSS FOR NOT READING EVERYTH
ING YOU CAN. YOU WOULD LEARN A LOT MORE.
-PATRICK THYSSEN
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis wrote:
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 3:10 PM
Guess you did not read the caption above the photo regarding the aluminum f
itting.- NPT fittings benefit from sealant, AN fittings do not.- The in
let to the flow transducer is NPT.- As far as the 90 degree fitting out f
rom the transducer, well that's what I have now on=0A the Cardinal and it w
orks just fine.- The instrument I have in the Cardinal is Electronics Int
ernational, the OEM for the "red cube" transducer so no, I never read nor p
lan to read the JPI manual.=0A=0A-=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
=0AOn Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 2:47 PM, Patrick Thyssen w
rote:
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AQuestion, Why the teflon tape or pipe sealent? Why aluminum
fitting into the transducer?
JP instruments and I suggest never ever use that stuff on the transducer. A
nd it would be a lot better if you had a straight out fitting from the tran
sducer. Not the ninety. Good book to read Is the JPI installation manual. I
think it''s the second page where it says, read this first.
=0ABut that just my opinion and we all have one.
-Patrick Thyssen
But then I too made a mistake and bought OP Equiptment And now I'm fixing t
hat.
Dual 430w and garmin G500. Now I know they will work.--
=0A
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis wrote:
=0A
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 11:56 AM
=0A=0A=0AI think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standar
d location (tunnel) if you can-accept some variability in flow indication
s when the electric fuel pump is on.- With that being said, mine sits BEF
ORE the flow divider on top of the air box in the picture below.- It is n
ot flying yet but in my Cardinal it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFOR
E the servo and-very stable.=0A=0A-=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Elect
rical/EL2g.html=0A-=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/=0A
-=0AOn Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Nick Leonard wr
ote:
=0A
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get fe
edback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. -Ar
e any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
=0A
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish =0A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
=0At Un/Subscription,
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=0Aronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
=0A
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lisk" href="http://forums.matroni
cs.com">http://forums.matronics.com
gt; =0A=0A=0A=0A
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A
Contribution Web Site -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Good discussion on fuel flow transducer mounting. Mine is between the
engine boost pump and servo, working good @ 180 hours with very stable
readings.
IMHO they are better left free floating in the line where ever mounted in
the engine compartment rather than hard mounted to the engine. I think hard
mounting would transmit engine vibration directly into the sensor and might
shorten it's life. Hard mounting also adds some additional heat input. The
Flowscan instructions suggest floating in the line and wrapping with fire
sleeve.
Dick Sipp
RV10 N110DV 180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
As an A&P I have examined/studied the TKS, boots and bleed air solutions to
the icing problem. The question is how much ice is too much. In the Midwest
in the winter, a pilot might as well put the aircraft in storage if they
only fly cross country in CAVU VFR in the mid western winter. As a CFII I am
not suggesting that anyone challenge a strong winter storm; I do know that
after the winter storm front passes that there is usually considerable
overcast conditions behind the front where the overcast may be relatively
low and may only be 1-2 thousand feet thick, Perhaps 1-2 minutes climb in
the RV10. If the temperatures are below freezing then the overcast will
probably contain rime ice which may or may not adhere to the aircraft. Once
on top the ice will begin to sublimate away even though the temperatures are
below freezing. A trip in the blue skies in smooth air is preferred over
bumping along under the overcast (probable limited visibility) with
potential of encountering some tall TV antennas. In OK there are two (1400
AGL and 1900 AGL) near Tulsa and three (all 1500 AGL) near the ILS into OK
city. So poking around VFR underneath can also be hazardous.
Lest we think that the heavy iron icing systems will save us; I can relate a
personal experience of a pilot mechanic from Mesa AZ about three years ago.
He was a pilot and mechanic flying a Aero commander twin turboprop with full
de icing boots into Cortez Colorado. The aircraft was certified for known
ice and he flew into icing in SW Colorado. The icing was severe and on his
approach into Cortez his circle to land maneuver produced a stall spin and a
crash near the airport. The SAR people found large amount of ice on the
airframe. On that same day, same time a corporate jet at the flight levels
encountered severe icing in the same area and made it to safety using its
anti ice/deice systems. It did experience over $1M of aircraft damage due to
ice striking the aircraft as the ice was leaving the aircraft
In the 1970s I was scheduled to leave JEFF CO airport north of Denver in the
winter. There was a major winter storm moving through. KS and MO had sleet
and freezing rain. My father was complaining about needing to get back to
work on Monday. He wanted to rent a car and drive to Peoria IL. I told him
we were not flying since I did not want to die today. The next day we left
and traveled East at about 11000 enroute. By MKC I could see the remnants of
an overcast below me at about 3000 MSL. Upon our arrival in the Peoria area
I informed my parents that we would probably pick up a little ice since we
had to descend through a thin overcast into 3MY. Upon landing I parked and
my parents deplaned. Mom said we did not get any ice. I took her over to the
wing and had her place her hand on it as the heat of her hand melted the
thin ice layer and water dripped on the ground.
My point: Systems will not save you; judgment will. If you are not going to
store the aircraft from October to April, then you will need to develop some
judgment about what is flyable and what is not. An IFR rating and the
ability to use it will be very helpful; ATC will give you any assistance you
request short of flying the aircraft for you if you are on an IFR clearance.
You may not get their attention if VFR unless you precede your call with a
MAYDAY. Study the 1228H accident last week. Look at the NTSB report; look
at the pilot data on the FAA files. Sometimes judgment develops from
anothers accident.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice
One should never consider even being dispatched, if there were a chance for
icing conditions. I fly for a living and I would never fly my RV-10 near
ice. period How many lessons do we need to look back at to understand it is
not worth the risk.
Just me 2 cents, fly safe and have fun
Thane States
321BY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ice
>
> You probably won't like my answer since my 10 is not flying, but
> knowing if a plane (not made for icing) does kind of okay is probably
> best not knowing. There have been several Cirrus aircraft that was
> legal for inadvertent icing encounter and crashed from it. Now the
> new Cirrus are certified for known icing. I fly a Citation Jet for a
> company and maybe I don't know enough but you never can tell how much
> ice is going to accumulate on the aircraft. I personally believe it
> is a very hard question to answer and to try not to get in icing. If
> you think the plane will do okay in it, it may persuade you to stay in
> it. Having said all of that I have been in icing in a plane not made
> for it. I got out of it as soon as I could.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264537#264537
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
One thing I have just thought about and correct me if I'm wrong. From the f
uel pump to the fuel pressure sending unit is up hill or above the fuel pum
p. This being said if you get air in your hoses going to your pressure tran
sducer from- being hot [vapor] then you could have a problem as to what i
t is reporting.
By having a compression of air instead of solid liquid.
-Lets hear from the engineers.
Patrick Thyssen
Engine pickled again!!! for new instrument panel
-Oh how I love OP
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, McGann, Ron wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 5:28=0A PM
au>
Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus.- Only irregluarity comes
when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
Ron McGann
Head of Engineering
Security Solutions & Services
Aerospace
Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location.- No
real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit=0A because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messa
ges
attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary o
r copyright
material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. Th
ey are for
the use of the intended recipient only.- Any unauthorised viewing, use, d
isclosure,
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turn email,
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hed are
error or virus free.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I've poked through fairly small clouds in the Citation over the Wasatch
Mountains over Utah and picked up enough ice to create snail trails past the
heated leading edge and cover the windshield despite the bleed air. The
windshield gets covered a lot of the time but the leading edges usually take
care of the ice on the wings. It took a short time to accumulate past the
leading edge in this circumstance and I sure as hell wouldn't want to be in
a plane without anti-ice or boots. This was during one hold on a gps
approach that was about three total minutes in the cloud. After I did my
missed, Salt Lake wanted me to go back to the hold and I told them unable
due to severe icing.
----- Original Message ----- From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 8:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Ice
>
> As an A&P I have examined/studied the TKS, boots and bleed air solutions
> to
> the icing problem. The question is how much ice is too much. In the
> Midwest
> in the winter, a pilot might as well put the aircraft in storage if they
> only fly cross country in CAVU VFR in the mid western winter. As a CFII I
> am
> not suggesting that anyone challenge a strong winter storm; I do know that
> after the winter storm front passes that there is usually considerable
> overcast conditions behind the front where the overcast may be relatively
> low and may only be 1-2 thousand feet thick, Perhaps 1-2 minutes climb in
> the RV10. If the temperatures are below freezing then the overcast will
> probably contain rime ice which may or may not adhere to the aircraft.
> Once
> on top the ice will begin to sublimate away even though the temperatures
> are
> below freezing. A trip in the blue skies in smooth air is preferred over
> bumping along under the overcast (probable limited visibility) with
> potential of encountering some tall TV antennas. In OK there are two (1400
> AGL and 1900 AGL) near Tulsa and three (all 1500 AGL) near the ILS into OK
> city. So poking around VFR underneath can also be hazardous.
>
> Lest we think that the heavy iron icing systems will save us; I can relate
> a
> personal experience of a pilot mechanic from Mesa AZ about three years
> ago.
> He was a pilot and mechanic flying a Aero commander twin turboprop with
> full
> de icing boots into Cortez Colorado. The aircraft was certified for known
> ice and he flew into icing in SW Colorado. The icing was severe and on his
> approach into Cortez his circle to land maneuver produced a stall spin and
> a
> crash near the airport. The SAR people found large amount of ice on the
> airframe. On that same day, same time a corporate jet at the flight levels
> encountered severe icing in the same area and made it to safety using its
> anti ice/deice systems. It did experience over $1M of aircraft damage due
> to
> ice striking the aircraft as the ice was leaving the aircraft
>
> In the 1970s I was scheduled to leave JEFF CO airport north of Denver in
> the
> winter. There was a major winter storm moving through. KS and MO had sleet
> and freezing rain. My father was complaining about needing to get back to
> work on Monday. He wanted to rent a car and drive to Peoria IL. I told him
> we were not flying since I did not want to die today. The next day we left
> and traveled East at about 11000 enroute. By MKC I could see the remnants
> of
> an overcast below me at about 3000 MSL. Upon our arrival in the Peoria
> area
> I informed my parents that we would probably pick up a little ice since we
> had to descend through a thin overcast into 3MY. Upon landing I parked and
> my parents deplaned. Mom said we did not get any ice. I took her over to
> the
> wing and had her place her hand on it as the heat of her hand melted the
> thin ice layer and water dripped on the ground.
>
> My point: Systems will not save you; judgment will. If you are not going
> to
> store the aircraft from October to April, then you will need to develop
> some
> judgment about what is flyable and what is not. An IFR rating and the
> ability to use it will be very helpful; ATC will give you any assistance
> you
> request short of flying the aircraft for you if you are on an IFR
> clearance.
> You may not get their attention if VFR unless you precede your call with a
> MAYDAY. Study the 1228H accident last week. Look at the NTSB report; look
> at the pilot data on the FAA files. Sometimes judgment develops from
> anothers accident.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ice
>
>
> One should never consider even being dispatched, if there were a chance
> for
> icing conditions. I fly for a living and I would never fly my RV-10 near
> ice. period How many lessons do we need to look back at to understand it
> is
> not worth the risk.
> Just me 2 cents, fly safe and have fun
> Thane States
> 321BY
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:54 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ice
>
>
>>
>> You probably won't like my answer since my 10 is not flying, but
>> knowing if a plane (not made for icing) does kind of okay is probably
>> best not knowing. There have been several Cirrus aircraft that was
>> legal for inadvertent icing encounter and crashed from it. Now the
>> new Cirrus are certified for known icing. I fly a Citation Jet for a
>> company and maybe I don't know enough but you never can tell how much
>> ice is going to accumulate on the aircraft. I personally believe it
>> is a very hard question to answer and to try not to get in icing. If
>> you think the plane will do okay in it, it may persuade you to stay in
>> it. Having said all of that I have been in icing in a plane not made
>> for it. I got out of it as soon as I could.
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264537#264537
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Pressure is pressure, it's just the compressibility that is
different. If the vapor were at 50psi, it would push
down on the fuel at 50psi, and up on the fuel pressure
sender at 50psi, and the fuel would transfer that pressure
to the engine at 50psi. Doesn't matter if it's vapor, or
what is in the line...it's just a diaphragm that is
displaying pressure. Think of a manometer..it's using
air and liquid to show air pressure, but inside the
manometer is both air and liquid. It's all the same when
it's pushing out against something else. If you have a
pot of steaming water and you plug it, the steam will
build up pressure, and if you puncture the bottom of
the pot, the water will come out at whatever pressure
the steam is at.
So no, it shouldn't have an effect on the pressure reading.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Patrick Thyssen wrote:
> One thing I have just thought about and correct me if I'm wrong. From
> the fuel pump to the fuel pressure sending unit is up hill or above the
> fuel pump. This being said if you get air in your hoses going to your
> pressure transducer from being hot [vapor] then you could have a
> problem as to what it is reporting.
> By having a compression of air instead of solid liquid.
> Lets hear from the engineers.
>
> Patrick Thyssen
> Engine pickled again!!! for new instrument panel
> Oh how I love OP
>
> --- On *Thu, 9/24/09, McGann, Ron //* wrote:
>
>
> From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 5:28 PM
>
>
>
> Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus. Only irregluarity comes
> when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
> to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
>
> Ron McGann
>
> Head of Engineering
> Security Solutions & Services
> Aerospace
>
> Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
> Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
>
>
> I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location. No
> real
> issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
> off.
> So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
>
>
> As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
> feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
> Are
> any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
>
> How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
> other
> problems?
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous
> e-mail messages
> attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain
> proprietary or copyright
> material or information that is subject to legal professional
> privilege. They are for
> the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing,
> use, disclosure,
> copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on,
> this message is
> strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or
> transmitted without the
> written permission of the owner. If you have received this
> transmission in error, or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the
> sender by return email,
> delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and
> destroy any printed
> copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should
> not be deemed a
> waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not
> warrant or represent
> that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail
> messages attached are
> error or virus free.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------k"
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni="_blank"
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co
> -Matt Dralle, List blank"
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.==================
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Kinda reminded me of Aerosonic simulator last December when we went to talk
to them.
-Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Strasnuts wrote:
From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Chargers
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 9:17 PM
This is going to be the way I secure my charger to my battery.- Only the
best for my RV-10.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264861#264861
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cid_bb830754_a37e_47b7_8a1a_8aa9c2caae31
_599.jpg
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
That big old red hose goes to, you guessed it, the fuel pump on another eng
ine I changed on a super Decath this year. There must be a reason for these
things.
-So I might think about putting a good cooling hose to help out on coolin
g fuel.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:17 PM
One thing I have just thought about and correct me if I'm wrong. From the f
uel pump to the fuel pressure sending unit is up hill or above the fuel pum
p. This being said if you get air in your hoses going to your pressure tran
sducer from- being hot [vapor] then you could have a problem as to what i
t is reporting.
By having a compression of air instead of solid liquid.
-Lets hear from the engineers.
Patrick Thyssen
Engine pickled again!!! for new instrument panel
-Oh how I love OP
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, McGann, Ron wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer=0A Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 5:28=0A PM
au>
Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus.- Only irregluarity comes
when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
Ron McGann
Head of Engineering
Security Solutions & Services
Aerospace
Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location.- No
real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in=0A that location?
How many people have moved the unit=0A because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Here is another picture of a fuel pump on M7-235 Maule I changed earlier th
is year. big red hose for airconditioning of fuel pump.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:17 PM
One thing I have just thought about and correct me if I'm wrong. From the f
uel pump to the fuel pressure sending unit is up hill or above the fuel pum
p. This being said if you get air in your hoses going to your pressure tran
sducer from- being hot [vapor] then you could have a problem as to what i
t is reporting.
By having a compression of air instead of solid liquid.
-Lets hear from the engineers.
Patrick Thyssen
Engine pickled again!!! for new instrument panel
-Oh how I love OP
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, McGann, Ron wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer=0A Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 5:28=0A PM
au>
Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus.- Only irregluarity comes
when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
Ron McGann
Head of Engineering
Security Solutions & Services
Aerospace
Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location.- No
real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in=0A that location?
How many people have moved the unit=0A because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
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material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. Th
ey are for
the use of the intended recipient only.- Any unauthorised viewing, use, d
isclosure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this messa
ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may=0A be reproduced,=0A adapted or transmitte
d without the
written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in
error, or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by re
turn email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any
printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be d
eemed a
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represent
that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attac
hed are
error or virus free.
--------------------------------------------------------------------k" href
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni="_bl
ank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co -
- - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List=0Ablank" hre
f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.===
===============
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
Ditto.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Rene Felker wrote:
From: Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 9:49 AM
I left mine in the standard position.- I see very minor fluctuations....I
do
not think it is a problem.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.-
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Patrick,
Which statement(s) do you stand by?
-Reading a 12 year old publication from JPI which documents the installation
of a Flowscan transducer, NOT an EI red cube transducer?
-Not using sealant on NPT fittings? ---really? why do you and JPI suggest
not using sealant on NPT fittings?
-Use of aluminum fittings on the transducer? You do realize that the EI red
cube transducer is made of aluminum, right?
Because I said I did not read the JPI manual, does not mean I did not read
the EI or AFS installation manuals which are MUCH more updated. Why don't
YOU take a look at the EI installation manual. You will find no such
admonishment on using aluminum or 90 degree fittings. In fact, on page 5
you will see 45 degree and 90 degree fittings as approved for installation
with the red cube. Here is a link to the EI fuel flow installation
instructions.
http://buy-ei.com/Information/II%20-%20FP-5.pdf
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com
On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 10:40 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
> I'LL STAND BY MY STATEMENT WITH THE ADDED INSERT, EI MAKE INSTALLATION
> MANUALS ALSO. THEY REFERENCE AC43-13 ALSO. YOUR LOSS FOR NOT READING
> EVERYTHING YOU CAN. YOU WOULD LEARN A LOT MORE.
> PATRICK THYSSEN
>
>
> --- On *Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis * wrote:
>
>
> From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 3:10 PM
>
> Guess you did not read the caption above the photo regarding the aluminum
> fitting. NPT fittings benefit from sealant, AN fittings do not. The inlet
> to the flow transducer is NPT. As far as the 90 degree fitting out from the
> transducer, well that's what I have now on the Cardinal and it works just
> fine. The instrument I have in the Cardinal is Electronics International,
> the OEM for the "red cube" transducer so no, I never read nor plan to read
> the JPI manual.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 2:47 PM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
>> Question, Why the teflon tape or pipe sealent? Why aluminum fitting
>> into the transducer?
>> JP instruments and I suggest never ever use that stuff on the transducer.
>> And it would be a lot better if you had a straight out fitting from the
>> transducer. Not the ninety. Good book to read Is the JPI installation
>> manual. I think it''s the second page where it says, read this first.
>> But that just my opinion and we all have one.
>> Patrick Thyssen
>>
>> But then I too made a mistake and bought OP Equiptment And now I'm fixing
>> that.
>> Dual 430w and garmin G500. Now I know they will work.
>>
>>
>> --- On *Thu, 9/24/09, William Curtis * wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 11:56 AM
>>
>> I think the general consensus is that is works fine in the standard
>> location (tunnel) if you can accept some variability in flow indications
>> when the electric fuel pump is on. With that being said, mine sits BEFORE
>> the flow divider on top of the air box in the picture below. It is not
>> flying yet but in my Cardinal it is AFTER the mechanical fuel pump BEFORE
>> the servo and very stable.
>>
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/EL2g.html
>>
>> William
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Nick Leonard http://mc/compose?to=nick@nleonard.com>
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
>>> feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested. Are
>>> any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
>>>
>>> How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
>>> other problems?
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Nick Leonard
>>> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
>>> t Un/Subscription,
>>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ====
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lisk" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> gt; <http://www.matronics.com/======%3Cbr%3E%3Cbr%3E%3C/font%3E%3C/b%3E%3Cfont+color=>*
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ttp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> **
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
That seems to be the truth behind the marketing fluff. The "special" Odyssey
chargers are no different from a multipurpose charger with an AGM mode. The
main thing being that the AGM's are charged at 14.6 volts optimally.
I also think that it's a must to have the desulphate capability to get the most
life out of your battery, especially if you are regularly charging/discharging
as in when you are playing with avionics. I would guess the Schumacher has
it but can't tell for sure. Here's the link to the 12248:
http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-12-Volt-2-4-or-8-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulf-p-16133.html
You can see the charging profiles under the "More Info" tab and in the instructions.
There is a wealth of info in the instruction manual even if you don't
use their chargers.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
I watched the discussion on AeroElectric and read lots of things
at other places about charging my Odyssey PC925, and spent a bunch
of time reading before I bought a charger. Michael's right, that
12248 would eb a great way to go, and it's supposely got a great
voltage curve for charging the Odyssey.
What I did for myself though was a little different. I got
a larger charger, that costs a bit more. I had been looking for
Odyssey specific chargers, and wanted to make sure I did the best
I could to charge at the right voltage. There is an Odyssey
labeled charger that looks exactly like the Schumacher
Speed Charge 1200A, which WalMart also sells. The difference I
think is that the Odyssey doesn't have the variety of
charging profiles. I got one off Ebay really really cheap,
and got one at WalMart too, so now I use them at home and
at the hangar.
Here is a link:
http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1200a.html
A few weeks ago I got fired up to verify that this was really
the same, so I sent Schumacher an email asking if they had
the same charge curve, and they said they were the same.
I'm assuming I'd use AGM mode, so that's what I've been
using. It's more expensive of a charger than you have
to have, but it can charge other batteries too.
I plug mine in sometimes if I have a big trip coming up,
and want to ensure I've got a perfect charge, and I
charge it during the winter when I don't fly as often.
In the summer though, I generally don't charge it.
I suppose I connect the charger maybe 10 times a year.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> I'm using the BatteryMinder 12248 for my Odyssey batteries. There was
> a write-up in one of the mags a few months back comparing different
> chargers and this one looked to be the best. It will charge any style
> lead acid battery and also desulphates. They will say on their site
> that you should get their "special" charger for Odyssey batteries but it
> only has a single profile in it for Odyssey AGM batteries.
>
>
>
> I spent a bunch of time looking at the information on the "special"
> charger vs. the 12248 which will charge flooded, AGM, and gel batteries
> and could not find a difference in the Odyssey vs. the AGM profiles that
> made it worthwhile. I also run the Odyssey in my motorcycle and ATV but
> I wanted the options and I have been very happy with it.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:26 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Chargers
>
>
>
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am using
> Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are trickle
> charging all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not expecting
> to fly for a while, or only when it's winter, etc.
>
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> ; - The RV10-List Email Forhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.===============
>
> < Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move |
You can get a similar cooling shroud for the pump on the 360/540 series fro
m here....
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/fuelpumps.php
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 2:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Here is another picture of a fuel pump on M7-235 Maule I changed earlier th
is year. big red hose for airconditioning of fuel pump.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:17 PM
One thing I have just thought about and correct me if I'm wrong. From the f
uel pump to the fuel pressure sending unit is up hill or above the fuel pum
p. This being said if you get air in your hoses going to your pressure tran
sducer from being hot [vapor] then you could have a problem as to what it
is reporting.
By having a compression of air instead of solid liquid.
Lets hear from the engineers.
Patrick Thyssen
Engine pickled again!!! for new instrument panel
Oh how I love OP
--- On Thu, 9/24/09, McGann, Ron wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 5:28 PM
au>
Only 40 hours but same experience as Marcus. Only irregluarity comes
when the boost pump is engaged but the totaliser function always appears
to reflect remaining fuel to within a gallon or so.
Ron McGann
Head of Engineering
Security Solutions & Services
Aerospace
Tel: +61 2 9562 3530 | Mob: +61 (0) 466 655 393 | Fax: +61 2 9562 2100
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 25 September 2009 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
I have about 430 hours with the transducer in the plans location. No
real
issues although I do notice a slight FF drop when I turn the boost pump
off.
So far it has been very accurate and consistent.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Flow Transducer Move
As an informal survey for the rest of us, it would be interesting to get
feedback from those that have left it where Van's originally suggested.
Are
any of you having any trouble with the transducer in that location?
How many people have moved the unit because of inaccurate readings or
other
problems?
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264706#264706
DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messa
ges
attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary o
r copyright
material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. Th
ey are for
the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, dis
closure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this messa
ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with
out the
written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in
error, or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by re
turn email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any
printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be d
eemed a
waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or
represent
that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attac
hed are
error or virus free.
--------------------------------------------------------------------k" href
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni="_bl
ank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co
-Matt Dralle, List blank" href="http://www.matronics.co
m/contribution">http://www.matronics.============
======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
It appears that the best price is:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326706
_200326706?cm_mmc=housefile-_-recd-_-phone-_-conf
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 6:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chargers
-->
That seems to be the truth behind the marketing fluff. The "special"
Odyssey chargers are no different from a multipurpose charger with an AGM
mode. The main thing being that the AGM's are charged at 14.6 volts
optimally.
I also think that it's a must to have the desulphate capability to get the
most life out of your battery, especially if you are regularly
charging/discharging as in when you are playing with avionics. I would
guess the Schumacher has it but can't tell for sure. Here's the link to the
12248:
http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-12-Volt-2
-4-or-8-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulf-p-16133.html
You can see the charging profiles under the "More Info" tab and in the
instructions. There is a wealth of info in the instruction manual even if
you don't use their chargers.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
I watched the discussion on AeroElectric and read lots of things at other
places about charging my Odyssey PC925, and spent a bunch of time reading
before I bought a charger. Michael's right, that
12248 would eb a great way to go, and it's supposely got a great voltage
curve for charging the Odyssey.
What I did for myself though was a little different. I got a larger
charger, that costs a bit more. I had been looking for Odyssey specific
chargers, and wanted to make sure I did the best I could to charge at the
right voltage. There is an Odyssey labeled charger that looks exactly like
the Schumacher Speed Charge 1200A, which WalMart also sells. The difference
I think is that the Odyssey doesn't have the variety of charging profiles.
I got one off Ebay really really cheap, and got one at WalMart too, so now I
use them at home and at the hangar.
Here is a link:
http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1200a.html
A few weeks ago I got fired up to verify that this was really the same, so I
sent Schumacher an email asking if they had the same charge curve, and they
said they were the same.
I'm assuming I'd use AGM mode, so that's what I've been using. It's more
expensive of a charger than you have to have, but it can charge other
batteries too.
I plug mine in sometimes if I have a big trip coming up, and want to ensure
I've got a perfect charge, and I charge it during the winter when I don't
fly as often.
In the summer though, I generally don't charge it.
I suppose I connect the charger maybe 10 times a year.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> I'm using the BatteryMinder 12248 for my Odyssey batteries. There
> was a write-up in one of the mags a few months back comparing
> different chargers and this one looked to be the best. It will charge
> any style lead acid battery and also desulphates. They will say on
> their site that you should get their "special" charger for Odyssey
> batteries but it only has a single profile in it for Odyssey AGM
batteries.
>
>
>
> I spent a bunch of time looking at the information on the "special"
> charger vs. the 12248 which will charge flooded, AGM, and gel
> batteries and could not find a difference in the Odyssey vs. the AGM
> profiles that made it worthwhile. I also run the Odyssey in my
> motorcycle and ATV but I wanted the options and I have been very happy
with it.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:26 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Chargers
>
>
>
> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am
> using Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are
> trickle charging all the time when you're in the hangar, only when not
> expecting to fly for a while, or only when it's winter, etc.
>
>
>
> Please share your thoughts.
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> ; - The RV10-List Email
Forhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
===============
>
> < Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
A heads up on the door hinges.
If you read the plans carefully, you'll find a confusing error. They
show the left door hinges with the proper parts call out. When the
plans say to repeat the steps for the right door, if you where to use
the same parts call out, they would be reversed. It was obvious that
something was wrong, but I wasn't sure which door was wrong. I called
Scott at Vans and he went out to the company's RV10 and took pictures
and emailed me them. The call out for the left door is correct, that is
the lower part of the hinge should face the center of the door, as the
plans show. The right door should just mirror image the left, although
the part numbers are reversed. Better safe than sorry, so I always check
when something doesn't compute. Thanks to Scott for his prompt help, and
not laughing at me for requiring clarification for something as probably
obvious to most.
Chris Hukill
Trying to close the door on all this fiberglass work!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
have fun getting the doors to fit now!
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door hinges
A heads up on the door hinges.
If you read the plans carefully, you'll find a confusing error. They
show the left door hinges with the proper parts call out. When the
plans say to repeat the steps for the right door, if you where to use
the same parts call out, they would be reversed. It was obvious that
something was wrong, but I wasn't sure which door was wrong. I called
Scott at Vans and he went out to the company's RV10 and took pictures
and emailed me them. The call out for the left door is correct, that is
the lower part of the hinge should face the center of the door, as the
plans show. The right door should just mirror image the left, although
the part numbers are reversed. Better safe than sorry, so I always check
when something doesn't compute. Thanks to Scott for his prompt help, and
not laughing at me for requiring clarification for something as probably
obvious to most.
Chris Hukill
Trying to close the door on all this fiberglass work!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I was checking the Schumacher manual today on the SC-1200A and
it does show that it has a desulphate mode. Doesn't look like
it's used as part of a normal charge cycle though. I'm not
totally sure of the details on it.
I did remember that the one that is often mentioned on Aeroelectric
is the one referred to in these 2 clippings from 2008 that i'll
repost:
---------------------
"Yeah, I saw those a couple of days ago at WallyWorld.
I've got one of the older versions and did extensive
testing that showed this little guy was about 2x
faster than the Battery-Minder/Battery-Tender wall-wart
crowd (0.8A versus 1.5A recharge) and equally as
"smart" with at less than 2/3 the price.
My favorite of the small guys.
Bob . . . "
"New number is SEM-1562A old # was WM-1562A"
----------------------
Tim
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>
> That seems to be the truth behind the marketing fluff. The "special"
> Odyssey chargers are no different from a multipurpose charger with an
> AGM mode. The main thing being that the AGM's are charged at 14.6
> volts optimally.
>
> I also think that it's a must to have the desulphate capability to
> get the most life out of your battery, especially if you are
> regularly charging/discharging as in when you are playing with
> avionics. I would guess the Schumacher has it but can't tell for
> sure. Here's the link to the 12248:
>
> http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-12-Volt-2-4-or-8-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulf-p-16133.html
>
>
> You can see the charging profiles under the "More Info" tab and in
> the instructions. There is a wealth of info in the instruction
> manual even if you don't use their chargers.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 4:24 PM To:
> rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chargers
>
>
> I watched the discussion on AeroElectric and read lots of things at
> other places about charging my Odyssey PC925, and spent a bunch of
> time reading before I bought a charger. Michael's right, that 12248
> would eb a great way to go, and it's supposely got a great voltage
> curve for charging the Odyssey.
>
> What I did for myself though was a little different. I got a larger
> charger, that costs a bit more. I had been looking for Odyssey
> specific chargers, and wanted to make sure I did the best I could to
> charge at the right voltage. There is an Odyssey labeled charger
> that looks exactly like the Schumacher Speed Charge 1200A, which
> WalMart also sells. The difference I think is that the Odyssey
> doesn't have the variety of charging profiles. I got one off Ebay
> really really cheap, and got one at WalMart too, so now I use them at
> home and at the hangar.
>
> Here is a link:
>
> http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1200a.html
>
> A few weeks ago I got fired up to verify that this was really the
> same, so I sent Schumacher an email asking if they had the same
> charge curve, and they said they were the same. I'm assuming I'd use
> AGM mode, so that's what I've been using. It's more expensive of a
> charger than you have to have, but it can charge other batteries too.
>
>
> I plug mine in sometimes if I have a big trip coming up, and want to
> ensure I've got a perfect charge, and I charge it during the winter
> when I don't fly as often. In the summer though, I generally don't
> charge it. I suppose I connect the charger maybe 10 times a year.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> I'm using the BatteryMinder 12248 for my Odyssey batteries. There
>> was a write-up in one of the mags a few months back comparing
>> different chargers and this one looked to be the best. It will
>> charge any style lead acid battery and also desulphates. They will
>> say on their site that you should get their "special" charger for
>> Odyssey batteries but it only has a single profile in it for
>> Odyssey AGM batteries.
>>
>>
>>
>> I spent a bunch of time looking at the information on the "special"
>> charger vs. the 12248 which will charge flooded, AGM, and gel
>> batteries and could not find a difference in the Odyssey vs. the
>> AGM profiles that made it worthwhile. I also run the Odyssey in my
>> motorcycle and ATV but I wanted the options and I have been very
>> happy with it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy *Sent:* Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:26
>> AM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* RV10-List: Chargers
>>
>>
>>
>> What are folks following for a battery-charging philosophy? I am
>> using Odyssey PC680s (who isn't?), and was wondering if folks are
>> trickle charging all the time when you're in the hangar, only when
>> not expecting to fly for a while, or only when it's winter, etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Please share your thoughts.
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>>
>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>>
>> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>>
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>>
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>
>>
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> ; - The RV10-List Email
>> Forhref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.===============
>>
>>
>> < Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
>>
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/con
>>
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>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Save yourself some grief and fit you doors with the seals on. The geometry
changes after the seals are in place.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in f/g hell
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: September-25-09 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door hinges
have fun getting the doors to fit now!
From: Chris Hukill <mailto:cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door hinges
A heads up on the door hinges.
If you read the plans carefully, you'll find a confusing error. They show
the left door hinges with the proper parts call out. When the plans say to
repeat the steps for the right door, if you where to use the same parts call
out, they would be reversed. It was obvious that something was wrong, but I
wasn't sure which door was wrong. I called Scott at Vans and he went out to
the company's RV10 and took pictures and emailed me them. The call out for
the left door is correct, that is the lower part of the hinge should face
the center of the door, as the plans show. The right door should just mirror
image the left, although the part numbers are reversed. Better safe than
sorry, so I always check when something doesn't compute. Thanks to Scott for
his prompt help, and not laughing at me for requiring clarification for
something as probably obvious to most.
Chris Hukill
Trying to close the door on all this fiberglass work!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Again
For clarity - I mean after the hinges are installed and you are working on
fitting the door so that the gaps etc are correct.
..L
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: September-25-09 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door hinges
Hi
Save yourself some grief and fit you doors with the seals on. The geometry
changes after the seals are in place.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in f/g hell
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: September-25-09 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door hinges
have fun getting the doors to fit now!
From: Chris Hukill <mailto:cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door hinges
A heads up on the door hinges.
If you read the plans carefully, you'll find a confusing error. They show
the left door hinges with the proper parts call out. When the plans say to
repeat the steps for the right door, if you where to use the same parts call
out, they would be reversed. It was obvious that something was wrong, but I
wasn't sure which door was wrong. I called Scott at Vans and he went out to
the company's RV10 and took pictures and emailed me them. The call out for
the left door is correct, that is the lower part of the hinge should face
the center of the door, as the plans show. The right door should just mirror
image the left, although the part numbers are reversed. Better safe than
sorry, so I always check when something doesn't compute. Thanks to Scott for
his prompt help, and not laughing at me for requiring clarification for
something as probably obvious to most.
Chris Hukill
Trying to close the door on all this fiberglass work!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I too looked very carefully at this section, before deciding the instructions are
correct. You'll notice they refer to the hinges as "left" and "right", not
fore and aft. The "left" and "right" are correct for both doors (as you face
them); obviously, "fore" and "aft" are reversed as you move to the right hand
door.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264968#264968
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
If using the BM 12248, each battery on board will have to be maintained
separately, since it appears to need to sense the voltage of the battery.
The easiest way it seems to do this is establish a DC receptacles that uses
ring terminals across the battery posts. Then alternate as required
September 14, 2009 - September 25, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fa