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December 05, 2009 - Present

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Subject: Feedback wanted
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
I just wanted some feedback if the cable routing is ok and if using cable-ties is ok. If not what did others use. Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276352#276352 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00037_111.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Valve
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Don't know who won - but I have a homebrew butterfly valve on the air inlet to the oil cooler on my 8A and find it very useful. I'll have a similar valve on the 10. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 10:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Oil Cooler Valve Before the thread gets diverted, who won the debate? Does the oil cooler valve provide utility? I have an extra push pull cable available if its a good idea since I didn't hook up the FAB alternate bypass valve. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276311#276311 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
December's Flying
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > I just wanted some feedback if the cable routing is ok and if using cable-ties is ok. If not what did others use. > > Thanks Michael Don't use the ties around your fuel injector lines or oil return lines underneath the cylinders or around your engine mount. Use adel clamps on the injector lines like you already have from the engine shop. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276359#276359 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
Michael, A couple points: First, as unlikely as it seems, cable ties will chafe into aluminum and steel tubes after a couple hundred hours or less. Adel clamps are a huge pain in the butt but there's nothing better for securing something to a tube. Second, I've never had any luck getting the adhesive pads on cable tie mounts to stick very well, even under the best conditions. Don't count on those on the firewall staying there very long. In cool areas we glue them on with Hysol. In a hot area like the engine compartment you're gonna need a pop rivet or two. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> > > I just wanted some feedback if the cable routing is ok and if using > cable-ties is ok. If not what did others use. > > Thanks Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276352#276352 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00037_111.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Feedback wanted
Date: Dec 05, 2009
You can also use silicone tape which sticks only to itself. Then a cable tie over the tape. Just not too tight on the tie over the tape. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 4:11 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Feedback wanted Michael, A couple points: First, as unlikely as it seems, cable ties will chafe into aluminum and steel tubes after a couple hundred hours or less. Adel clamps are a huge pain in the butt but there's nothing better for securing something to a tube. Second, I've never had any luck getting the adhesive pads on cable tie mounts to stick very well, even under the best conditions. Don't count on those on the firewall staying there very long. In cool areas we glue them on with Hysol. In a hot area like the engine compartment you're gonna need a pop rivet or two. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote: I just wanted some feedback if the cable routing is ok and if using cable-ties is ok. If not what did others use. Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276352#276352 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00037_111.jpg ========== ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution le, List Admin. ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear seat heat duct
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
What change was made in later kits to solve the heat problem? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276422#276422 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear seat heat duct
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Current kits have placed the fuel selector valve lower, allowing more room for the heat duct to pass. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276424#276424 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
I am with Dave - I used a roll of silicone tape from Spruce to tie it all together. It is awesome. Use a scissors to cut the 1" strips into 1/2" strips and wrap it around anything loose. EGT. CHT wires, ignition, all the ignition wires and EFIS wires, and as an anti chafe. I think that it goes to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Even if the cable ties do not melt on you they harden and break over time. Only behind the firewall. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276425#276425 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Thank you for all your great feedback. I'll see if I can use Adel clamps. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276433#276433 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
Google 'rescue tape' ..... I bought their sampler kit with 6 or 7 colors. Linn AirMike wrote: > > I am with Dave - I used a roll of silicone tape from Spruce to tie it > all together. It is awesome. Use a scissors to cut the 1" strips into > 1/2" strips and wrap it around anything loose. EGT. CHT wires, > ignition, all the ignition wires and EFIS wires, and as an anti > chafe. I think that it goes to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Even if the > cable ties do not melt on you they harden and break over time. Only > behind the firewall. > > -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276425#276425 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Hey Linn, I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1 The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to qualify for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very simple to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Stick centering
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stick centering
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 06, 2009
The AP adds some resistance to the system but doesn't hold the stick in position. When I remove my hand from the stick, if trimmed properly the aircraft continues to fly straight and level...I'm assuming the air pressures are keeping the control surfaces in aerodynamic place I've never flown an aircraft with a spring return except the ones on my R/C transmitter Build it as designed it does work quite well Rick Sked Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 07:01:55 Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 06, 2009
FWIW....it also works well on F-16s, A-10s, F-15s and every make and model of car I've ever owned...F-4 tape is a pretty general description since there was so many types of tape used to keep them flying....albeit the red silicone variety was the official first "F-4" tape...it also makes good Superballs !!!! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 06:18:22 Subject: RV10-List: Re: Feedback wanted Hey Linn, I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1 The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to qualify for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very simple to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Check this for under the cowl http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-11847/High-Temperature-Tapes/1-x-12-yd s-Black-Silicone-Self-Fusing-Tape -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Feedback wanted Hey Linn, I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=s r_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1 The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to qualify for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very simple to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Stribling" <jlstrib(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Heat duct... YES
Date: Dec 06, 2009
YES! James Stribling 812.342.6637 jlstrib(at)comcast.net _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter James Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat heat duct Hello folks, As an early kit purchaser, I, like many, have a problem with the 'stock' heat tube issue for the back seat as it goes past the fuel selector valve. I have solved the problem. In the attached pictures, I made a plug out of wood. We vacuumed bagged a part for my plane..so my problem is solved. But I also sent pictures to a plastics injection mold shop, and a roto-mold shop. Injection molding was 3 times the cost of the roto-molding. I have a quote back from the roto-mold shop that may make it viable to pay to have the tooling made and parts cast. I estimate that we would need to order about 200 units to make the time and money worth the effort. An expected price would be $70-75, with another $5 or $10 for boxing and postage. They estimate the part will weigh about 6/10ths of a pound. I do realize that the problem has been solved in later kits. I also realize that many solved the problem by installing an Adair valve. But I also think that hundreds of kits shipped with the same issue, and many are facing the same issue. I chose to make my own part --- the on-going reason my plane still isn't flying! I need to know if there is demand for this part to be made. If so, I can pursue having it done. If not, I will spend my time completing my plane. So open the flood gates - drop me a response. When you respond, put something in the subject line like HEAT DUCT YES, or HEAT DUCT NO to make a quick survey of my inbox possible. Pete James RV-10 Escalade - heavy & gas guzzling, yet comfortable! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stick centering
I don't thinks it's an issue. Here's the explanation that I have in my head to understand what's happening- The aircraft we fly, when in flight, are positively stable in pitch. That is, once trimmed and then disturbed hands off, the aircraft will return to the trimmed state after a few oscillations. This is accomplished in a variety of ways that may include springs and weights in the control system. But it doesn't have anything to do with the stick returning to a center. The same aircraft when in flight are not positively stable in roll. They may remain level if not disturbed in absolutely still air (no such thing). Hands off, at some point, they will fall off in one direction or another and enter a spiral. But that doesn't have anything to do with the stick returning to center either. Generally speaking, one of the neat things about experimental aircraft is that they can be less stable in certain ways than certified aircraft. That often means less junk in the control system which means a more pleasant and responsive control experience. But too little stability or too much responsiveness can mean trouble too. This is going to be interesting because there's a lot stuff to understand about stability - dynamic, static, longitudinal, lateral, convergent, divergent, etc. I only understand most of it when I'm staring at a text book. Bill Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! > > He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? > > I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. > > So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? > > Thanks, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Painting done! > On with wiring and avionics. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Stick centering
Since I'm not flying mine ...... I don't think you'll need any 'spring trim'. You have elevator trim available, and rudder trim can be as simple as a piece of wood taped to the rudder or aileron trailing edge. I'm going to have active rudder and aileron trim ..... a piece of hinge riveted to the trailing edge and driven by a model airplane servo. As to being 'dialed in' .... I think it's still referring to rigging .... which means all the stuff out in the air is really pointing in the correct direction, and in relation to each other. So many things affect flying 'trim' so it's a fairly long process to tweak the surfaces so everything is aerodynamically correct. Linn Lew Gallagher wrote: > > > Hey Guys, > > Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot > partner -- be gentle! > > He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a > mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the > plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he > has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all > speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? > > I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it > think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong > encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about > the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, > not riding. > > So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have > others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not > an issue? > > Thanks, - Lew > > -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stick centering
Hey Lew, Don here.....- I believe that actual-"centering" would be of n o hope for actually flying any aircraft on a distinct heading and altitude. - For every flight the wt & bal changes, and if that wasn't enough, the w t & bal changes during flight.- So say the stick returns to center,,,, th e same center you'll have one day with a 250lb guy sitting next to you, and then the following day flying with yourself.- Or one day with no baggage and the next day with 100lbs.--- Then what about fuel burn?- I sup pose you could fly your heading based on fuel burn.... veering a little lef t, switch to the left tank for awhile..... I can't imagine anyone who was building a 10,,,,, for the reasons one would actually build a 10, and not-install an AP. Although I was really leaning to rudder and aileron trim while building, no w that I'm flying, I don't find much need for either one.- Plane flies al most perfect in the vast majority of conditions.... the rest of the time, i t flies almost perfect! Ok, that's my 2cents Don McDonald New pilot, 90+ hours, and enjoying the %$&* out of it! --- On Sun, 12/6/09, Lew Gallagher wrote: From: Lew Gallagher <lewgall(at)charter.net> Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Date: Sunday, December 6, 2009, 7:01 AM Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism f or bringing the stick back to center.- I.e. hands off, the plane should l evel out if trimmed correctly.---Keep in mind that he has not yet gon e for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation.- Maybe in flight, it does center?- I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think th at was in reference to AP discussions.- In spite of my strong encourageme nt that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding.- So I guess the direct question is:- Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Gurley" <rngurley(at)att.net>
Subject: Heat duct... YES
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Pete - This sounds very interesting. I can not find the pictures? Dick Gurley -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Stribling Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Heat duct... YES YES! James Stribling 812.342.6637 jlstrib(at)comcast.net _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter James Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat heat duct Hello folks, As an early kit purchaser, I, like many, have a problem with the 'stock' heat tube issue for the back seat as it goes past the fuel selector valve. I have solved the problem. In the attached pictures, I made a plug out of wood. We vacuumed bagged a part for my plane..so my problem is solved. But I also sent pictures to a plastics injection mold shop, and a roto-mold shop. Injection molding was 3 times the cost of the roto-molding. I have a quote back from the roto-mold shop that may make it viable to pay to have the tooling made and parts cast. I estimate that we would need to order about 200 units to make the time and money worth the effort. An expected price would be $70-75, with another $5 or $10 for boxing and postage. They estimate the part will weigh about 6/10ths of a pound. I do realize that the problem has been solved in later kits. I also realize that many solved the problem by installing an Adair valve. But I also think that hundreds of kits shipped with the same issue, and many are facing the same issue. I chose to make my own part --- the on-going reason my plane still isn't flying! I need to know if there is demand for this part to be made. If so, I can pursue having it done. If not, I will spend my time completing my plane. So open the flood gates - drop me a response. When you respond, put something in the subject line like HEAT DUCT YES, or HEAT DUCT NO to make a quick survey of my inbox possible. Pete James RV-10 Escalade - heavy & gas guzzling, yet comfortable! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Baffle Clearance with Engine
Hi, I just wanted to do a sanity check before trimming. I am doing the initial fitting of the aft #6 cylinder baffle assembly to the engine. I have a little bit of the baffle rubbing with the engine mounting ears and some around the curvy part of the engine by the rear baffle mount, bolted to the engine. 1. It's okay to trim some of the baffle material away to create a bit of clearance with the engine? I can't imagine leaving this rubbing, as it will rub engine paint off and then eventually something more. 2. Did anyone else have to remove half the engine mounts to install the #5 and #6 aft baffles? It gets tight in that space between the engine and mounts and that was the only way I could accomplish it. I was a bit worried about undoing the one of the top engine mount bolts, but the engine did not torque itself off the mount, thankfully. Jae 40533 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Baffle Clearance with Engine
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Suggest putting chicken trak around the baffling edges that rub and proseal the trak in place. Then you won't have the baffling abrading the mounting ears. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 4:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Baffle Clearance with Engine Hi, I just wanted to do a sanity check before trimming. I am doing the initial fitting of the aft #6 cylinder baffle assembly to the engine. I have a little bit of the baffle rubbing with the engine mounting ears and some around the curvy part of the engine by the rear baffle mount, bolted to the engine. 1. It's okay to trim some of the baffle material away to create a bit of clearance with the engine? I can't imagine leaving this rubbing, as it will rub engine paint off and then eventually something more. 2. Did anyone else have to remove half the engine mounts to install the #5 and #6 aft baffles? It gets tight in that space between the engine and mounts and that was the only way I could accomplish it. I was a bit worried about undoing the one of the top engine mount bolts, but the engine did not torque itself off the mount, thankfully. Jae 40533 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: Cold Engine
Date: Dec 06, 2009
I went flying yesterday when the temp was about 20 F. I was flying LOP at about 60% power and had cylinders that were in the 250's and oil at 140. The oil cooler has a cockpit actuated valve that controls airflow to the cooler and it was fully closed. I know I need to block the airflow into the engine. What's the best way to accomplish this and how much reduction will be needed? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 127 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Cold Engine
Date: Dec 06, 2009
This certainly isn't the most elegant way but duct tape off about 1/2 of the inlet area on your cowl to start. If you get a warm day, peal off the tape. If you want to spend the time you can build some aluminum baffles to mount on the front of the inlet for a more elegant solution. Gary Specketer. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cold Engine I went flying yesterday when the temp was about 20 F. I was flying LOP at about 60% power and had cylinders that were in the 250's and oil at 140. The oil cooler has a cockpit actuated valve that controls airflow to the cooler and it was fully closed. I know I need to block the airflow into the engine. What's the best way to accomplish this and how much reduction will be needed? Sheldon Olesen N475PV 127 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Stick centering
Date: Dec 06, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Lew, I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it, then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4 hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing, sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle. Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-( Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/06/09 19:37:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Stick centering
Date: Dec 07, 2009
I too would question "what is the experience level" of your pilot? This is what I would call a neutrally stable aircraft i.e. if you put it into a bank it will stay there. A 152 is a positively stable aircraft i.e. it will return to level flight after a while. Other homebuilt aircraft are even more unstable than the 10. If your pilot doesn't have experience in this type of flying I would advise some transition training that specifically gets him to understand what type of aircraft this is and how it flys. I second the recommendation for an AP. It will reward you with all kinds of benefits he as of now hasn't completely though through. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:32 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering Lew, I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it, then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4 hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing, sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle. Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-( Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/06/09 19:37:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stick centering
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Just to reiterate experience...I had about 130 hours all in a 172....and no real good stick time for two years before flying my -10 I can honestly say now I am proficient at flying the airplane...For me that meant almost 25 hours of dual...by my choice..The AP should almost be part of the MEL. (some aircraft it is) if only for being a backup to, God forbid, spatial disorientation... Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:43:46 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering I too would question "what is the experience level" of your pilot? This is what I would call a neutrally stable aircraft i.e. if you put it into a bank it will stay there. A 152 is a positively stable aircraft i.e. it will return to level flight after a while. Other homebuilt aircraft are even more unstable than the 10. If your pilot doesn't have experience in this type of flying I would advise some transition training that specifically gets him to understand what type of aircraft this is and how it flys. I second the recommendation for an AP. It will reward you with all kinds of benefits he as of now hasn't completely though through. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:32 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering Lew, I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it, then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4 hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing, sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle. Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-( Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/06/09 19:37:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Stick centering
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
The only time I've heard of springs being used in these light planes is to help provide gradient forces with stick movement. Meaning that the further you move the stick from center, the more pressure (feedback) it applies against you. So it would be 0 at neutral and get stronger as you move to the outer limits. The pressure of the springs should be uniform in all directions. Now the question is why would anyone do that? The answer is to keep the pilot from putting too many G's on the airframe. Some aircraft designs are very light on the controls and provide very little feedback (or non-uniform feedback) in the terms of stick forces. As a result it's very easy for a pilot to over control the airplane and put too many G's on it without realizing what they're really doing. The springs are provided to insert a simple form of artificial feedback directly at the stick. There have been a handful of airplanes out there who've required springs. I would guess most are retrofit's following accidents of the same type (I don't know), because I couldn't imagine designing a light plane that needed the springs intentionally. We're lucky to have a good airframe and control surface designer for the RV-10. :) Phil -----Original Message----- From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com [mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stick centering Just to reiterate experience...I had about 130 hours all in a 172....and no real good stick time for two years before flying my -10 I can honestly say now I am proficient at flying the airplane...For me that meant almost 25 hours of dual...by my choice..The AP should almost be part of the MEL. (some aircraft it is) if only for being a backup to, God forbid, spatial disorientation... Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:43:46 Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering I too would question "what is the experience level" of your pilot? This is what I would call a neutrally stable aircraft i.e. if you put it into a bank it will stay there. A 152 is a positively stable aircraft i.e. it will return to level flight after a while. Other homebuilt aircraft are even more unstable than the 10. If your pilot doesn't have experience in this type of flying I would advise some transition training that specifically gets him to understand what type of aircraft this is and how it flys. I second the recommendation for an AP. It will reward you with all kinds of benefits he as of now hasn't completely though through. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:32 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering Lew, I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it, then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4 hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing, sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle. Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-( Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering Hey Guys, Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be gentle! He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding. So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? Thanks, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/06/09 19:37:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Stick centering
Actually, springs have been used as a 'trim' function on a lot of homebuilts. Varying the tension of the springs adjusts the 'center' position of the stick, and hence the 'trim'. IMHO, it's crude, but effective. Far more elegant would be proper rigging coupled with remotely operated trim servos to take care of CG shifts in flight. Better would be the addition of an autopilot if only for temporary control of the airplane (or for helping you out of a nasty situation such as a controlled 180), and better yet .... both trim and autopilot. The better the rigging, and smaller the trim movement, the more efficient and faster your airplane will go. Linn Perry, Phil wrote: > > The only time I've heard of springs being used in these light planes is > to help provide gradient forces with stick movement. Meaning that the > further you move the stick from center, the more pressure (feedback) it > applies against you. So it would be 0 at neutral and get stronger as > you move to the outer limits. The pressure of the springs should be > uniform in all directions. > > Now the question is why would anyone do that? > > The answer is to keep the pilot from putting too many G's on the > airframe. Some aircraft designs are very light on the controls and > provide very little feedback (or non-uniform feedback) in the terms of > stick forces. As a result it's very easy for a pilot to over control > the airplane and put too many G's on it without realizing what they're > really doing. The springs are provided to insert a simple form of > artificial feedback directly at the stick. > > There have been a handful of airplanes out there who've required > springs. I would guess most are retrofit's following accidents of the > same type (I don't know), because I couldn't imagine designing a light > plane that needed the springs intentionally. > > We're lucky to have a good airframe and control surface designer for the > RV-10. :) > > Phil > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com [mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com] > Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:13 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stick centering > > > Just to reiterate experience...I had about 130 hours all in a 172....and > no real good stick time for two years before flying my -10 I can > honestly say now I am proficient at flying the airplane...For me that > meant almost 25 hours of dual...by my choice..The AP should almost be > part of the MEL. (some aircraft it is) if only for being a backup to, > God forbid, spatial disorientation... > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > > -----Original Message----- > From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> > Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 08:43:46 > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering > > > I too would question "what is the experience level" of your pilot? This > is > what I would call a neutrally stable aircraft i.e. if you put it into a > bank > it will stay there. A 152 is a positively stable aircraft i.e. it will > return to level flight after a while. > > Other homebuilt aircraft are even more unstable than the 10. If your > pilot > doesn't have experience in this type of flying I would advise some > transition training that specifically gets him to understand what type > of > aircraft this is and how it flys. > > I second the recommendation for an AP. It will reward you with all > kinds of > benefits he as of now hasn't completely though through. > > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks > Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stick centering > > > Lew, > I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane > however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I > Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross > country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on > regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding > altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it, > then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not > having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4 > hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be > considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing, > sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle. > Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a > swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone > wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more > important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to > not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had > a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever > happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-( > > Robin > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher > Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering > > > Hey Guys, > > Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot > partner -- be gentle! > > He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a > mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the > plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has > not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all > speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center? > > I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think > that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong > encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the > advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not > riding. > > So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others > addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue? > > Thanks, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Painting done! > On with wiring and avionics. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452 > > > > > > > > > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 12/06/09 19:37:00 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: _http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435_ (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435) Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej(at)deej.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: EFIS repairs
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Just a reminder to those making the EFIS decision. Consider the repair options of the EFIS you choose. I have had a couple of unsolicited reboots of one of my Chelton DU1s in-flight. The reversion to the PFD on the other display went as planned. I probably have a voltage dip but will trouble shoot locally. just for reference I checked with Chelton/Cobham regarding repairs. A simple check of no problem found is $650 flat rate. A simple minor repair is $1200 flat rate and a major problem is $2400 flat rate. Sounds like certified repair prices for experimental systems. Fortunately a lot of this computer equipment fails of infant mortality or lasts a very long time. Keep in mind the warranties and repair policies when selecting an EFIS. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem... Wow! Just Wow! Hope my GRT screens look anywhere near as nice. Really like the approach plate view. That looks like it could sort a lot of stuff out in a hurry! Bill "absolutely drooling" Watson RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote: > EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates > help tremendously in situational awareness. > > I just posted pictures from last weekend: > > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 > > > Rob Hickman > N402RH RV-10 > > > > In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, > deej(at)deej.net writes: > > > On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley > fields. We > > > I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be > challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions > approaching the > airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. > The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly > parallel to runway 18/36. > > The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" > terrain, and > with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills > disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make > sure > you follow the published procedure. > > On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful > country to > see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to > put up with the hassle of winter flying. > > -Dj > > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV > Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - > http://deej.net/sportsman/ > Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - > ============================================== > _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b > k you for p; -Matt Dralle, List > ======================== the ties Day > ================================================ - > MATRONICS WEB FORUMS > ================================================= > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Feedback wanted
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Michael Never use cable ties in the engine compartment to secure anything to a motor mount, any fluid line, always use clamps. Cable ties will eventually either stretch or just come loose and will chafe and worse will get dirt and grime under them then chafe with dirt under them (sand paper) and will wear holes in everything. Clamps will hold a lot better and not wear out like cable ties do. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 10:39 AM Subject: RV10-List: Feedback wanted I just wanted some feedback if the cable routing is ok and if using cable-ties is ok. If not what did others use. Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276352#276352 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00037_111.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
Decem...
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Rob That's awesome. John G. Cumins 40864 about emp cl;ecoed together. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej(at)deej.net writes: On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ============================================== _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you for p; -Matt Dralle, List ======================== the ties Day ================================================ - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
From: Jim(at)CombsFive.Com
FYI, There is supposed to be a diode on the Master relay. It is in Vans Web store and should be already included on currently shipping relays. But if you are already flying you will most likely not have the diode. AFS for one "REQUIRES" the diode. Apparently there is a pretty ugly voltage spike introduced on the power bus if you don't have it. Jim Combs (N312F - Flying 145+ hours) ------------------------------------------------ Just a reminder to those making the EFIS decision. Consider the repair options of the EFIS you choose. I have had a couple of unsolicited reboots of one of my Chelton DU1s in-flight. The reversion to the PFD on the other display went as planned. I probably have a voltage dip but will trouble shoot locally. just for reference I checked with Chelton/Cobham regarding repairs. A simple check of no problem found is $650 flat rate. A simple minor repair is $1200 flat rate and a major problem is $2400 flat rate. Sounds like certified repair prices for experimental systems. Fortunately a lot of this computer equipment fails of infant mortality or lasts a very long time. Keep in mind the warranties and repair policies when selecting an EFIS. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
From: Jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Here is a link: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1260213107-202-72&browse=electrical&product=diodes Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
Decem...
Date: Dec 07, 2009
That is really very impressive!! nice job with the SV. Pascal From: RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 8:59 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej(at)deej.net writes: On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ===================== _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you for p; -Matt Dralle, List ======================== the ties Day ======================= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
Jim, I think I remember installing the diode.... but I want to ck and make sure.... will not be home for several days, but for me and anyone else with the need to know.... where should the diode be installed?- Between switc h and Efis? Thanks Don McDonald --- On Mon, 12/7/09, Jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote: From: Jim(at)CombsFive.Com <Jim(at)CombsFive.Com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: EFIS repairs Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 11:05 AM FYI, There is supposed to be a diode on the Master relay.- It is in Vans Web s tore and should be already included on currently shipping relays.- But if you are already flying you will most likely not have the diode. AFS for on e "REQUIRES" the diode. Apparently there is a pretty ugly voltage spike int roduced on the power bus if you don't have it. Jim Combs (N312F - Flying 145+ hours) ------------------------------------------------ Just a reminder to those making the EFIS decision. Consider the repair opti ons of the EFIS you choose. I have had a couple of unsolicited reboots of o ne of my Chelton DU1s in-flight. The reversion to the PFD on the other disp lay went as planned. I probably have a voltage dip but will trouble shoot l ocally. just for reference I checked with Chelton/Cobham regarding repairs. A simple check of no problem found is $650 flat rate. A simple minor repai r is $1200 flat rate and a major problem is $2400 flat rate. Sounds like ce rtified repair prices for experimental systems. Fortunately a lot of this c omputer equipment fails of infant mortality or lasts a very long time. Keep in mind the warranties and repair policies when selecting an EFIS. AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/contribution external link will open in a new window" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List open in a new window" target="_blank" =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
The diode goes on the Master relay, from the coil to the battery terminals. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276610#276610 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: EFIS repairs
Date: Dec 07, 2009
I have diodes on the master relays; this voltage dip (?) rarely occurs but in flight after lock on. Chelton suggested that it may be a drop below 10V which causes the reboot. Since it is unique to a single PFD and causes no indication on the other MFD or the GRT Sport backup, I suspect something in the power or ground on the connector for the PFD; will check there first. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim(at)CombsFive.Com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 12:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: EFIS repairs FYI, There is supposed to be a diode on the Master relay. It is in Vans Web store and should be already included on currently shipping relays. But if you are already flying you will most likely not have the diode. AFS for one "REQUIRES" the diode. Apparently there is a pretty ugly voltage spike introduced on the power bus if you don't have it. Jim Combs (N312F - Flying 145+ hours) ------------------------------------------------ Just a reminder to those making the EFIS decision. Consider the repair options of the EFIS you choose. I have had a couple of unsolicited reboots of one of my Chelton DU1s in-flight. The reversion to the PFD on the other display went as planned. I probably have a voltage dip but will trouble shoot locally. just for reference I checked with Chelton/Cobham regarding repairs. A simple check of no problem found is $650 flat rate. A simple minor repair is $1200 flat rate and a major problem is $2400 flat rate. Sounds like certified repair prices for experimental systems. Fortunately a lot of this computer equipment fails of infant mortality or lasts a very long time. Keep in mind the warranties and repair policies when selecting an EFIS. AeroElectric <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution external link will open in a new window" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List open in a new window" target="_blank" ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
The diode protects against voltage spikes, not low voltage. If you need hardware repair on a Chelton unit, it might be worth checking with Brent Regan at www.regandesigns.com. He was the original developer for the Chelton unit (then Sierra) and it is my understanding that his son's do repairs. Might be a better price than Chelton gave you. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276620#276620 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: EFIS repairs
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Thanks ; I will keep that in mind; I was aware of the Regan connection but unaware of his son's involvement. My avionics is turned on by a toggle circuit breaker; hence no coil and no spike from a expanding/collapsing magnetic field. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 2:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: EFIS repairs The diode protects against voltage spikes, not low voltage. If you need hardware repair on a Chelton unit, it might be worth checking with Brent Regan at www.regandesigns.com. He was the original developer for the Chelton unit (then Sierra) and it is my understanding that his son's do repairs. Might be a better price than Chelton gave you. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276620#276620 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
Dec
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Hey Rob, I'm not even a pilot and I get a control stick in my pants just looking at your posts! Made my day. My owner/pilot that I'm helping build his -10, just told me he will NOT listen to me about all the recommendations for installing an AP and he is expecting delivery on the Advanced 4500 and 3500, and Garmin 430S around X-mas ... SO CLOSE, I can't believe he's not going that last inch! Maybe he would listen to you ...? I'm still working on him and sent him a link to your post. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276633#276633 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stick centering
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Thanks for the replies. Phil, I think you nailed it closest, cuz when I passed on all the feedback to him, he responded that the cargo planes he flew in the AF and the Diamond he has been training in, have the artificial gradient resistance to help to not over steer. I really think that once he gets his cross training in a -10, he will be more comfortable. On the AP issue, I don't fly and even I can see what an asset it is (see my response to Rob's post!). I'll keep pushing it! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276635#276635 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Dec
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Lew Tell you friend that AFS sells an AFS branded TruTrak autopilot designed to integrate into the AFS EFIS. I just got mine in the mail - Christmas came early! Cheers Les #40643 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: December-07-09 5:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Dec Hey Rob, I'm not even a pilot and I get a control stick in my pants just looking at your posts! Made my day. My owner/pilot that I'm helping build his -10, just told me he will NOT listen to me about all the recommendations for installing an AP and he is expecting delivery on the Advanced 4500 and 3500, and Garmin 430S around X-mas ... SO CLOSE, I can't believe he's not going that last inch! Maybe he would listen to you ...? I'm still working on him and sent him a link to your post. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276633#276633 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Dec
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Lew, I think I know your "owner/pilot" He either wrote an article that started "Never again" or maybe it was under Findings: The pilot in command failed to....."insert your favorite conclusion here". There seems to some arrogance that you should not be subject to. You might want to consider your liability in the construction of the aircraft if your recommendation for certain equipment is met with unfounded resistance. For the rest of us RV-10 builders, save us the increased insurance costs and make sure the registration mentions no reference to Vans or RV-10. Name the make, model and manufacturer after him Rick Sked N246RS Builder/Pilot Additional services Dragons Slayed Damsels rescued Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 16:07:47 Subject: RV10-List: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Dec Hey Rob, I'm not even a pilot and I get a control stick in my pants just looking at your posts! Made my day. My owner/pilot that I'm helping build his -10, just told me he will NOT listen to me about all the recommendations for installing an AP and he is expecting delivery on the Advanced 4500 and 3500, and Garmin 430S around X-mas ... SO CLOSE, I can't believe he's not going that last inch! Maybe he would listen to you ...? I'm still working on him and sent him a link to your post. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276633#276633 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stick centering
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Date: Dec 08, 2009
FYI......move the RV-10 stick 3 to 4 inches left or right and hold it you will be approaching 90 degrees of bank real quick and your brain won't even KNOW there's a spring there.....you fly this plane with a few fingers...not a fist full. and unless he flew the C-17...OMG...over steer? Well maybe he flew C-47.s. WTFDIK!!! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 16:20:20 Subject: RV10-List: Re: Stick centering Thanks for the replies. Phil, I think you nailed it closest, cuz when I passed on all the feedback to him, he responded that the cargo planes he flew in the AF and the Diamond he has been training in, have the artificial gradient resistance to help to not over steer. I really think that once he gets his cross training in a -10, he will be more comfortable. On the AP issue, I don't fly and even I can see what an asset it is (see my response to Rob's post!). I'll keep pushing it! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276635#276635 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Re: Stick centering
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
The main reason for the AP is for cross country use, where holding a relatively sensitive stick would get old in a hurry. If he only plans breakfast and hamburger runs in local area, then AP is not cost effective. While I flew a plane without one for long cross countries for years, you don't realize how fatiguing it is until later. You just have to figure how to share the $5000 cost that will persuade him. On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 5:20 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Thanks for the replies. > > Phil, I think you nailed it closest, cuz when I passed on all the feedback to him, he responded that the cargo planes he flew in the AF and the Diamond he has been training in, have the artificial gradient resistance to help to not over steer. I really think that once he gets his cross training in a -10, he will be more comfortable. > > On the AP issue, I don't fly and even I can see what an asset it is (see my response to Rob's post!). I'll keep pushing it! > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Painting done! > On with wiring and avionics. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276635#276635 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Dec FWIW - 8+ years ago I decided to put an IFR panel in my Maule but man-up on the AP issue and hand-fly only. After all, I was sailplane pilot - no APs there and plenty of 3, 4, and 5+ hour cross countries. I regret it every flight at some point. Instead of making me sharper, it just bores me and makes me lax. And when the fun part comes up; landing, taking off, manuvering, approaches - often I'm just tired. It's no fun hand flying when using the relief system. Waking my co-pilot up to fly while I use the system... there's just no optimal solution. I've learned how to fold maps and organize a knee board for hand flying in IMC. So what. Good luck fighting the good fight. He doesn't have to use it. Bill "just talked to Trutrak today making sure I have the trim feature" Watson Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Rob, > > I'm not even a pilot and I get a control stick in my pants just looking at your posts! Made my day. > > My owner/pilot that I'm helping build his -10, just told me he will NOT listen to me about all the recommendations for installing an AP and he is expecting delivery on the Advanced 4500 and 3500, and Garmin 430S around X-mas ... SO CLOSE, I can't believe he's not going that last inch! Maybe he would listen to you ...? > > I'm still working on him and sent him a link to your post. > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Painting done! > On with wiring and avionics. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276633#276633 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stick centering
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Agreed. He'll never know it's missing because those forces are designed into the airplane. And I agree. WTFD(R)K??? LOL!! Phil -----Original Message----- From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com [mailto:ricksked(at)embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 6:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Stick centering FYI......move the RV-10 stick 3 to 4 inches left or right and hold it you will be approaching 90 degrees of bank real quick and your brain won't even KNOW there's a spring there.....you fly this plane with a few fingers...not a fist full. and unless he flew the C-17...OMG...over steer? Well maybe he flew C-47.s. WTFDIK!!! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 16:20:20 Subject: RV10-List: Re: Stick centering Thanks for the replies. Phil, I think you nailed it closest, cuz when I passed on all the feedback to him, he responded that the cargo planes he flew in the AF and the Diamond he has been training in, have the artificial gradient resistance to help to not over steer. I really think that once he gets his cross training in a -10, he will be more comfortable. On the AP issue, I don't fly and even I can see what an asset it is (see my response to Rob's post!). I'll keep pushing it! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276635#276635 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: electric fuel pump current
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
I've been following Van's electrical kit instructions: they call for a 5 Amp breaker for the fuel pump (the one sold by Van's). But today I noticed the pump instructions say it draws 5 amps; they call for a 7 or 10 amp breaker. Has anyone run this pump on a 5 amp breaker without false trips? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276665#276665 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: electric fuel pump current
Your judgement is correct.... use at least a 7.5amp breaker. Don McDonald --- On Mon, 12/7/09, Bob Turner wrote: From: Bob Turner <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> Subject: RV10-List: electric fuel pump current Date: Monday, December 7, 2009, 7:52 PM I've been following Van's electrical kit instructions: they call for a 5 Am p breaker for the fuel pump (the one sold by Van's). But today I noticed th e pump instructions say it draws 5 amps; they call for a 7 or 10 amp breake r. Has anyone run this pump on a 5 amp breaker without false trips? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276665#276665 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Stiff control cables
Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Stiff control cables
Date: Dec 07, 2009
I've seen this with other control cables. Many times it is the lubricant ge tting old and hard. Check with your local motorcycle shop and tell them you want to an adapter for lubricating brake and throttle cables. It's a small device that clamps over one end of the cable while it is still in place so you can shot spray lubricate down the cable. When you use it be prepared f or lubricate coming out the other end as it can be a mess if you are not re ady for it. Vern Smith (#324) From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com Date: Mon=2C 7 Dec 2009 21:10:47 -0800 Subject: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Has anyone had their engine control cables get very=2C very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once t he engine warms up (and the cables too=2C I assume)=2C they feel fine. The y've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed=2C but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables=2C not in the fuel servo or the g overnor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also=2C the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longe r. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville=2C CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slide id=1&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WL MTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: electric fuel pump current
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2009
As was already mentioned in a reply, it needs at least a 7.5A breaker. If you use the right size wire, I would go with a 10A. Van's wiring guide is designed for a carbureted engine, not a fuel injected one. I don't understand why. How many on the list are going carbureted? I think this is one of the only places where it matters, but it does matter. The boost pump for a carbureted engine only puts out less than 10 PSI, so it doesn't draw as much current. I don't understand why they didn't just size the wire enough for a 10A breaker and put that in the kit. A 10A breaker is fine for a low-pressure pump, but not vice versa for the 5A. Anyway, that's the reason it's in the kit. I found out the hard way about 5 years ago. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Dec 7, 2009, at 10:52 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > I've been following Van's electrical kit instructions: they call for a 5 Amp breaker for the fuel pump (the one sold by Van's). But today I noticed the pump instructions say it draws 5 amps; they call for a 7 or 10 amp breaker. Has anyone run this pump on a 5 amp breaker without false trips? > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276665#276665 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2009
dave.saylor.aircrafters(a wrote: > I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer.? Any suggestions? > > Dave Saylor > Dave, I have not had that problem but I did install cables a little longer then the stock cables. I think the longer cables allows a little more give in the routing. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276681#276681 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Stiff control cables
Date: Dec 08, 2009
I have seen it actually, if you have the cables with the plastic liner. The liner will melt if the cable gets too close to a heat source. Mine melted from the cabin heat dump washing over the cable as it exited the closed valve. I was able to shorten the cable and liner and solve the problem. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Were did you get the longer cables? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 7:48 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Stiff control cables > > > dave.saylor.aircrafters(a wrote: >> I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two >> longer.? Any suggestions? >> >> Dave Saylor >> > > Dave, > I have not had that problem but I did install cables a little longer then > the stock cables. I think the longer cables allows a little more give in > the routing. > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > (N2GB Flying) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276681#276681 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
Gary, was that one of the green sheathed cables? I'm kind of surprised it has a plastic liner but that would explain it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 6:05 AM, gary wrote: > I have seen it actually, if you have the cables with the plastic liner. > The liner will melt if the cable gets too close to a heat source. Mine > melted from the cabin heat dump washing over the cable as it exited the > closed valve. I was able to shorten the cable and liner and solve the > problem. > > > Gary Specketer > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor > *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2009 11:11 PM > > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Stiff control cables > > > Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have > the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the > mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once > the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've > gotten progressively worse over time. > > > They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but > manageable. > > The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the > governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. > > Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not > exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction > knob? > > I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two > longer. Any suggestions? > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > N921AC 540 hours > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *www.aeroelectric.com* > > *www.homebuilthelp.com* > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > * * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Stiff control cables
Date: Dec 08, 2009
I believe the the T,M,P cables are Cablecraft cables. Try http://www.tuthill.com/us/en/brands/Cablecraft.cfm They make the cables for Cessna. You can order direct form Cablecraft _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Gary, was that one of the green sheathed cables? I'm kind of surprised it has a plastic liner but that would explain it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 6:05 AM, gary wrote: I have seen it actually, if you have the cables with the plastic liner. The liner will melt if the cable gets too close to a heat source. Mine melted from the cabin heat dump washing over the cable as it exited the closed valve. I was able to shorten the cable and liner and solve the problem. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours www.aeroelectric.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution _blank">www.aeroelectric.com .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2009
daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com wrote: > Were did you get the longer cables? > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA > Muskego, WI > > --- When I ordered by FF kit, I had them swap out 2 of my cables for longer ones. Van's has several different lengths available and they can also custom order if what you want is not one of their stock lengths. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276697#276697 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Stiff control cables
Date: Dec 08, 2009
It was a black coated one from Aircraft Spruce. Gary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Gary, was that one of the green sheathed cables? I'm kind of surprised it has a plastic liner but that would explain it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 6:05 AM, gary wrote: I have seen it actually, if you have the cables with the plastic liner. The liner will melt if the cable gets too close to a heat source. Mine melted from the cabin heat dump washing over the cable as it exited the closed valve. I was able to shorten the cable and liner and solve the problem. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours www.aeroelectric.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution _blank">www.aeroelectric.com .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2009
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
Check your cables closely. I have seen pictures on other sites where the inner cable unravels inside the sheath. I am not sure if you can take the inner cable out to check this very easy but it is something you should consider. Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com ________________________________ From: gary <speckter(at)comcast.net> Sent: Tue, December 8, 2009 9:11:52 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stiff control cables It was a black coated one from Aircraft Spruce. Gary ________________________________ From:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Gary , was that one of the green sheathed cables? I'm kind of surprised it has a plastic liner but that would explain it. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville , CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 6:05 AM, gary wrote: I have seen it actually, if you have the cables with the plastic liner. The liner will melt if the cable gets too close to a heat source. Mine melted from the cabin heat dump washing over the cable as it exited the closed valve. I was able to shorten the cable and liner and solve the problem. Gary Specketer ________________________________ From:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stiff control cables Has anyone had their engine control cables get very, very tight? I have the quadrant and the cables that came with it. The throttle is OK but the mixture and prop are to the point that they take two hands to move. Once the engine warms up (and the cables too, I assume), they feel fine. They've gotten progressively worse over time. They were a little on the tight side when they were first installed, but manageable. The stiffness is definitely in the cables, not in the fuel servo or the governor. It's not in the quadrant pivot either. Also, the quadrant friction has always been more or less useless (but not exactly needed at this point). Do other people actually use the friction knob? I guess I'll replace the cables and maybe order cables an inch or two longer. Any suggestions? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville , CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell N921AC 540 hours www.aeroelectric.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution _blank">www.aeroelectric.com .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List tp://forums.matronics.com www.aeroelectric.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in
Dec
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Hey Les, Would this be the Advanced Pilot? If so, I'll use that to point him in a specific direction -- maybe I can get it on his wife's X-mas list. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276823#276823 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stiff control cables
From: "hsdexo" <hsdexo(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Dave, make sure you have a good ground between aircraft and engine, or check your ground and make sure it is not loose. Your cables could be making your ground and that would tighten them up eventually seizing them. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276836#276836 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Video
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Dear List, I recently purchased a Sony Webbie HD video camera for about $170.00 online. While returning from LOP testing yesterday my friend tried it out for the first time and captured this video of us descending back into SBP near sundown. The camera prefers more light and he needed to have a slightly different focal setting to get the close up screen shot but after looking at the video a couple of times I figured it might be inspirational to a few builders so I figured I would share it before I remove it from YouTube. BTW the upload to Google's new HD YouTube is really simple. I can't wait to make in-flight videos with the RV-8A. Robin http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&hd=1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Video
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Wow.. Great video Robin!! I'm ready to fly........................ From: Robin Marks [mailto:robin1(at)mrmoisture.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Video Dear List, I recently purchased a Sony Webbie HD video camera for about $170.00 online. While returning from LOP testing yesterday my friend tried it out for the first time and captured this video of us descending back into SBP near sundown. The camera prefers more light and he needed to have a slightly different focal setting to get the close up screen shot but after looking at the video a couple of times I figured it might be inspirational to a few builders so I figured I would share it before I remove it from YouTube. BTW the upload to Google's new HD YouTube is really simple. I can't wait to make in-flight videos with the RV-8A. Robin http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&hd=1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Subject: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem... Looks great! Now if I could only get the units that I have had on order fo r more than a year I could actually see it in person. Sheesh. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej@deej .net writes: On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ============== ======= _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you fo r p; -Matt Dralle, List ========== ============== the ties Day ====== ================= - MATRONIC S WEB FORUMS ==================== ==== rsbooks.com> m> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Project for sale
From: sean(at)hangerg.com
Date: Dec 09, 2009
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From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem...
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Is AFS a year behind on deliveries? From: rvbuilder(at)sausen.net Date: Wed=2C 9 Dec 2009 13:42:37 -0600 Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... Looks great! Now if I could only get the units that I have had on order fo r more than a year I could actually see it in person. Sheesh. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday=2C December 07=2C 2009 11:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time=2C deej@de ej.net writes: On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM=2C Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon=2C NH airport=2C and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot=2C there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain=2C and with a bit of wind=2C it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed=2C you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side=2C absolutely some of the most beautiful country t o see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ============== ======= _nbsp=3B (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you for p=3B -Matt Dralle=2C List ======== ================ the ties Day ==== =================== - MA TRONICS WEB FORUMS www.aeroelectric.comwww.buildersbooks.comwww.homebuilthelp.comhttp://www. matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp: //forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Dece... We have only been shipping the new units for 6 weeks, your two units are in production and should ship before the end of the month. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems Inc. In a message dated 12/9/2009 11:47:43 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes: Looks great! Now if I could only get the units that I have had on order for more than a year I could actually see it in person. Sheesh. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: _http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435_ (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435) Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej(at)deej.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ===================== _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you for p; -Matt Dralle, List ======================== the ties Day ======================= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com (http://www.aeroelectric.com/) (http://www.buildersbooks.com/) (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Subject: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem... For me yes, my order for the AdvancedDecks was in back in November last y ear. Seems it depends on more than just the order they were ordered in vs when you receive them. Don't get me wrong, I still think that Rob's EFIS i s in the top two out there but I'm on my third delivery date now (not count ing the numerous general dates we have all heard) and others have received theirs with considerably less wait time. Now I do understand the philosoph y behind getting people that are ready to fly their equipment but at some p oint that becomes a self fulfilling prophecy and you need to address the pe ople that have been waiting excessively. Honestly they could have stayed out of this situation by avoiding overly optimistic delivery targets. Dynon's approach to this style of marketing w as much better IMHO. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 7:49 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... Is AFS a year behind on deliveries? ________________________________ From: rvbuilder(at)sausen.net Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:42:37 -0600 Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... Looks great! Now if I could only get the units that I have had on order fo r more than a year I could actually see it in person. Sheesh. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 11:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night fligh t in Decem... EFIS screens with synthetic vision and geo-referenced approach plates help tremendously in situational awareness. I just posted pictures from last weekend: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=51435 Rob Hickman N402RH RV-10 In a message dated 12/5/2009 11:08:56 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, deej@deej .net writes: On 12/5/2009 9:21 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > I've never flown into Lebanon airport but I have polished the > surrounding mountains and explored some of the narrow valley fields. We I learned to fly out of the Lebanon, NH airport, and it can be challenging. As a VFR pilot, there are many directions approaching the airport that you can't see the airport until you are very close to it. The airport is nestled between some nice "hills" that run mostly parallel to runway 18/36. The IFR approaches bring you out over some "interesting" terrain, and with a bit of wind, it can get pretty bumpy with all the hills disrupting the air. If you go missed, you definitely want to make sure you follow the published procedure. On the positive side, absolutely some of the most beautiful country to see when you are flying. The view itself is enough of an incentive to put up with the hassle of winter flying. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - ============== ======= _nbsp; (And Get Some AWESOME FREE to find Gifts tric re b k you fo r p; -Matt Dralle, List ========== ============== the ties Day ====== ================= - MATRONIC S WEB FORUMS www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/> www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com rsbooks.com> m> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Video
Great shots.... but, we were all waiting for the landing!=C2-=C2- Which Webbie did you get?=C2- Was it one of the colored ones?=C2-=C2- What did you use for the first flight? Don McDonald --- On Wed, 12/9/09, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> Subject: RV10-List: Video Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 9:58 AM Dear List, =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- I recent ly purchased a Sony Webbie HD video camera for about $170.00 online. While returning from LOP testing yesterday my friend tried it out for the first =C2- time and captured this video of us descending back into SBP near sun down. The camera prefers more light and he needed to have a slightly differ ent focal setting to get the close up screen shot but after looking at the video a couple of times I figured it might be inspirational to a few builde rs so I figured I would share it before I remove it from YouTube. BTW the u pload to Google=99s new HD YouTube is really simple. I can=99t wait to make in-flight videos with the RV-8A. =C2- Robin =C2- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aJt4_Chswo&hd=1 =C2- =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Video
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
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From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: source for relay
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Does anyone know a source for a high quality, low holding current, continuous duty relay, in the 20 (+) amp range. I need one for the avionics master, and another for the Ebus alternate feed. Couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanx Chris Hukill painting interior, if it ever warms up enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: source for relay
Date: Dec 10, 2009
vhttp://www.azgita.gov/psic/meetings/2001/022701.pdf _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: source for relay Does anyone know a source for a high quality, low holding current, continuous duty relay, in the 20 (+) amp range. I need one for the avionics master, and another for the Ebus alternate feed. Couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanx Chris Hukill painting interior, if it ever warms up enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: source for relay
Date: Dec 10, 2009
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/masterrelay.php I sent bad link _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 5:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: source for relay Does anyone know a source for a high quality, low holding current, continuous duty relay, in the 20 (+) amp range. I need one for the avionics master, and another for the Ebus alternate feed. Couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanx Chris Hukill painting interior, if it ever warms up enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem...
Date: Dec 10, 2009
I'm not sure I agree that Dynon's style of marketing is better. I equate Dynon's Skyview rollout to GM selling a new Corvette with a new engine, but then telling you that they aren't sure when they'll be able to sell you tires. I think they released the product early with some functionality missing that should have been there on initial release. I think it will be a good product when all the functionality is available, but at initial release it isn't much more than a simple six-pack replacement. AFS held shipping until everything worked. I'm not sure which approach is better, but I'm not a fan of either approach. Pre-announcing products/features are a lose/lose situation. Consumers are upset because of the delays. Revenues are reduced because everyone is waiting for the new product and not purchasing current products. Additionally, additional loss of revenue from folks tired of waiting and go with a competitive product. We've seen similar situations in the consumer electronics and computer industries Also, look how the pendulum swings the other way. GRT seems to be very conservative these days with product announcements after they went through a similar scenario a couple years ago. Fortunately, I think the EFIS market is maturing. Long term success will be the vendor that consistently delivers new products/features on a regular basis as close to the initial delivery date as possible. Let's hope all the EFIS vendors learn from these debacles and are strong competitors for many years to come. Then it will be a win/win for all. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Decem... For me yes, my order for the AdvancedDecks was in back in November last year. Seems it depends on more than just the order they were ordered in vs when you receive them. Don't get me wrong, I still think that Rob's EFIS is in the top two out there but I'm on my third delivery date now (not counting the numerous general dates we have all heard) and others have received theirs with considerably less wait time. Now I do understand the philosophy behind getting people that are ready to fly their equipment but at some point that becomes a self fulfilling prophecy and you need to address the people that have been waiting excessively. Honestly they could have stayed out of this situation by avoiding overly optimistic delivery targets. Dynon's approach to this style of marketing was much better IMHO. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: source for relay
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Go to your local auto parts place and get a relay for headlights. They are rated somewhere around 20 amps. And are cheap. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: source for relay Does anyone know a source for a high quality, low holding current, continuous duty relay, in the 20 (+) amp range. I need one for the avionics master, and another for the Ebus alternate feed. Couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanx Chris Hukill painting interior, if it ever warms up enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Hank from the Netherlands
Date: Dec 10, 2009
A couple of years ago a guy from the Netherlands was at OSH with us. Has anyone heard from him lately, is he flying? Gary Specketer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Hank from the Netherlands
Henkjen van der Zouw His Kitlog site http://www.mykitlog.com/phzme indicates he's still building. I believe he had a couple of key employees in his business leave, and it put a delay into his plans. Deems gary wrote: > > A couple of years ago a guy from the Netherlands was at OSH with us. Has > anyone heard from him lately, is he flying? > > Gary Specketer > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Hank from the Netherlands
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Henkjen was at RV-10 HQ three years ago. Time flies when you're having fun. Bart and Martha van Ruth camped with us two years ago. They were in the spot next to the one Janice and I camped, by the tree line and the row of porta johns. He has a kitlog site as well: http://www.mykitlog.com/Bart%20van%20Rut He purchased a 172 last summer, which I'm sure slowed his build down a little. The last update in Kitlog was in August. I've sent him a few emails over the last year or so, but never got a response. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 12:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hank from the Netherlands Henkjen van der Zouw His Kitlog site http://www.mykitlog.com/phzme indicates he's still building. I believe he had a couple of key employees in his business leave, and it put a delay into his plans. Deems gary wrote: > > A couple of years ago a guy from the Netherlands was at OSH with us. Has > anyone heard from him lately, is he flying? > > Gary Specketer > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Decem...
Date: Dec 10, 2009
I believe the ars upgrDe should be filled on a firs come first served basis. It just seems unfair to wait until new units are all shipped even though you were ready to buy the upgrade long before the prospective new unit buyer placed an order. I'm just sayin. Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 robert(at)brunklaw.com On Dec 10, 2009, at 7:31 AM, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > I=99m not sure I agree that Dynon=99s style of marketing is > better. I equate Dynon=99s Skyview rollout to GM selling a new Corv > ette with a new engine, but then telling you that they aren=99t sure w > hen they=99ll be able to sell you tires. I think they released the p > roduct early with some functionality missing that should have been t > here on initial release. I think it will be a good product when all > the functionality is available, but at initial release it isn=99t muc > h more than a simple six-pack replacement. > > > AFS held shipping until everything worked. I=99m not sure which appro > ach is better, but I=99m not a fan of either approach. > > > Pre-announcing products/features are a lose/lose situation. > Consumers are upset because of the delays. Revenues are reduced > because everyone is waiting for the new product and not purchasing > current products. Additionally, additional loss of revenue from > folks tired of waiting and go with a competitive product. We=99ve seen > similar situations in the consumer electronics and computer industr > ies > > > Also, look how the pendulum swings the other way. GRT seems to be > very conservative these days with product announcements after they > went through a similar scenario a couple years ago. Fortunately, I > think the EFIS market is maturing. Long term success will be the > vendor that consistently delivers new products/features on a regular > basis as close to the initial delivery date as possible. Let=99s hope > all the EFIS vendors learn from these debacles and are strong compe > titors for many years to come. Then it will be a win/win for all. > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 10:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy > night flight in Decem... > > > For me yes, my order for the AdvancedDecks was in back in November > last year. Seems it depends on more than just the order they were > ordered in vs when you receive them. Don=99t get me wrong, I still th > ink that Rob=99s EFIS is in the top two out there but I=99m on my > third delivery date now (not counting the numerous general dates we > have all heard) and others have received theirs with considerably le > ss wait time. Now I do understand the philosophy behind getting peo > ple that are ready to fly their equipment but at some point that bec > omes a self fulfilling prophecy and you need to address the people t > hat have been waiting excessively. > > > Honestly they could have stayed out of this situation by avoiding > overly optimistic delivery targets. Dynon=99s approach to this style > of marketing was much better IMHO. > > > Michael > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robhickman(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Subject: Re: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight
in Dece We are not waiting until we have shipped all the new units before we start the upgrades. We will be ready to start upgrades in January and they will be done in order of order. Now that we are actually producing units in volume we are trying to ship them by order date. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems Inc. In a message dated 12/10/2009 11:39:17 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rebrunk42(at)gmail.com writes: I believe the ars upgrDe should be filled on a firs come first served basis. It just seems unfair to wait until new units are all shipped even though you were ready to buy the upgrade long before the prospective new unit buyer placed an order. I'm just sayin. Sent from my iPhone Robert E. Brunkenhoefer Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C. 520 Lawrence St. Corpus Christi, Texas 78401 Phone: 361-888-8808 Facsimile: 361-888-6753 _robert(at)brunklaw.com_ (mailto:robert(at)brunklaw.com) On Dec 10, 2009, at 7:31 AM, "Bob Leffler" <_rv(at)thelefflers.com_ (mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com) > wrote: I=99m not sure I agree that Dynon=99s style of marketing is better. I equate Dynon=99s Skyview rollout to GM selling a new Corvette with a new engine, but then telling you that they aren=99t sure when they =99ll be able to sell you tires. I think they released the product early with some functionality missing that should have been there on initial release. I think it will be a good product when all the functionality is available, but at initial release it isn=99t much more than a simple six-pack replacement. AFS held shipping until everything worked. I=99m not sure which ap proach is better, but I=99m not a fan of either approach. Pre-announcing products/features are a lose/lose situation. Consumers are upset because of the delays. Revenues are reduced because everyon e is waiting for the new product and not purchasing current products. Additionally, additional loss of revenue from folks tired of waiting and go with a competitive product. We=99ve seen similar situations in the consume r electronics and computer industries Also, look how the pendulum swings the other way. GRT seems to be very conservative these days with product announcements after they went through a similar scenario a couple years ago. Fortunately, I think the EFIS marke t is maturing. Long term success will be the vendor that consistently delivers new products/features on a regular basis as close to the initial delivery date as possible. Let=99s hope all the EFIS vendors learn from these debacles and are strong competitors for many years to come. Then it wil l be a win/win for all. From: _owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com_ (mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR continued - A great dark and stormy night flight in Decem... For me yes, my order for the AdvancedDecks was in back in November last year. Seems it depends on more than just the order they were ordered in vs when you receive them. Don=99t get me wrong, I still think that Ro b=99s EFIS is in the top two out there but I=99m on my third delivery date now (not counting the numerous general dates we have all heard) and others have re ceived theirs with considerably less wait time. Now I do understand the philosophy behind getting people that are ready to fly their equipment bu t at some point that becomes a self fulfilling prophecy and you need to address the people that have been waiting excessively. Honestly they could have stayed out of this situation by avoiding overly optimistic delivery targets. Dynon=99s approach to this style of marketing was much better IMHO. Michael href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">_www.buildersbooks.com_ (http://www.buildersbooks.com/) href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www .homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co ntrib ution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ======================== ============ (http://www.aeroelectric.com/) (http://www.buildersbooks.com/) (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ======================== ============ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Van's List of RV-10's
Has anybody noticed that Van's count of flying RV10's has increased by about 30 in the past week or two? It currently lists 249 flying RV10's. I check it a couple of time a week, and the numbers keep growing but I don't see any 'reports' on their web site. The last they posted was Rick Sked. I know that John Cox has about 10$ more in his database than Van's had on their website, John, have you been feeding info to Van's to get them current? Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Has anybody installed (or have experience with) the G3i electronic ignition system? Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Van's List of RV-10's
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I keep thinking I should send Vans a note informing them of my First Flight now over a year ago. I am still waiting for Air to Air photos I guess. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 3:45 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's List of RV-10's Has anybody noticed that Van's count of flying RV10's has increased by about 30 in the past week or two? It currently lists 249 flying RV10's. I check it a couple of time a week, and the numbers keep growing but I don't see any 'reports' on their web site. The last they posted was Rick Sked. I know that John Cox has about 10$ more in his database than Van's had on their website, John, have you been feeding info to Van's to get them current? Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/10/09 07:36:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Jesse I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me being a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only way to go. I talked to the Manager at Eagle engines they have installed it a few times and has one installed on there test stand they run all engines they work on, it looks like a great product. I have in the past over 30 yrs ago used the MFD products on my car and they were flawless. So I am sure this product runs in line with that. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 4:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: G3i Ignition Has anybody installed (or have experience with) the G3i electronic ignition system? Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 D======================== ========= D======================== ========= D======================== ========= D======================== ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: > Jesse > > > I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me being > a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only > way to go. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Larry vetterman used/uses it: Now after flying it almost 100 hours, here are the reasons that I really like the G3. #1. Easy to install, even I could follow the wiring diagrams. 2. the system uses the existing mags and if there is an electrical failure, the mags operate normally. 3. the engine starts very well both hot and cold. 4. I can now run lean of peak if desired whereas before my M1B, with standard mags balked at anything beyond peak EGT. 5. I see a lower ghp with the G3 vs standard mags. 6. The M1B engine is extremely smooth with the G3. 7. I used the expensive Champion fine wire spark plugs(I had a set on the shelf) gapped to .021 however I understand that an inexpensive automotive plug can also be used check out his site for the full report- under the prop comparison. Pascal From: Jesse Saint Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 4:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: G3i Ignition Has anybody installed (or have experience with) the G3i electronic ignition system? Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
I've installed on the -10 but it hasn't been started yet. It is a fairly easy install. Thomas Shpakow was great to talk with. He was always willing to answer my dumb questions. Not sure if he's changed the manual but early on, he was trying to show all the possible ways to install and made the install appear much more complicated than it actually was. When I talked to Thomas at Osh this year he was thinking of simplifying the install manual and providing the less common configurations as an appendix. I'll let you know how it runs this spring :) Doug -------- Doug "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277129#277129 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Feedback wanted
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
I thought that AC 43.13-1A made it a no-no to tie electrical lines to fuel lines. Why is it OK to tie a spark plug line (which are known to arc over) to a fuel injection line? I didn't see anyone mention this. Am I in error? -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277130#277130 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Van's List of RV-10's
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Deems, it is always great to see posts from you. Yes, the Vans number has surged markedly in the last few weeks unexpectedly. Yes I have provided a little additional info but not the majority of that number bump that we all notice. I have been wrapped up time wise in the "Teen Flight Build" of th e RV-12 for the Center for Airway Sciences, which is being reported by Laur an Paine Jr. for both Sport Aviation and Kitplanes magazine. The 12 is a w hole new breed of quickbuild. The skins are soooo thin and the pull rivets so unusual. Plus keeping hands off while Teens build it is a real eye open er. The 10 remains a stronger more practical build -IMHO. The panels, driven r ivets and more substantive metal fabrications along with all that fun compo site work place the 10 in a whole different arena. Medical certificates as ide, The 10 is for Real Pilots/Builders. Geoff's work brings back memories of the very beginning. My data continues about 10% ahead of those who "report" to the mother ship and yet I continues to look for pictures to keep that portion current as we ll. There are lots of builds going beyond our borders than tend to get dro pped from Ken Scott's propaganda posts. One week ago there were 10 QB fuse lage kits on the shop floor and as of last Saturday there were only four. T he best level of quality remains that done by the members of this group rat her than foreign nationals and a different level in the definition of quali ty. Q in QB is Quick which for many over the last year left a lot of room for improvement in both speed and quality. I envy all of the 250+ veterans who have made the entire journey and shed l ight on the goal for those of us still in the tunnel. Keep those posts of flying RV-10 coming. John Cox From: Deems Davis Sent: Thu 12/10/2009 3:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: Van's List of RV-10's Has anybody noticed that Van's count of flying RV10's has increased by about 30 in the past week or two? It currently lists 249 flying RV10's. I check it a couple of time a week, and the numbers keep growing but I don't see any 'reports' on their web site. The last they posted was Rick Sked. I know that John Cox has about 10$ more in his database than Van's had on their website, John, have you been feeding info to Van's to get them current? Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Dear Santa
Dear Santa, Here's what I want for Christmas... It's a secret new unmanned aerial vehicle called the RQ-170 Sentinel. Photo here: http://secretdefense.blogs.liberation.fr/.a/6a00e008d663eb8834012876199796970c-500wi I don't think it will fit under the tree, so please leave it in the garage next to my unfinished RV-10. If you can't get one, then I guess my next choice would be the usual "GI Joe with the Kung Fu grip". Sincerely, Jay ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Kelly Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. John G. Cumins -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: > Jesse > > > I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me being > a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only > way to go. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
what are mages? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 11:35 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > Kelly > > Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the > electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies > the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. > > John G. Cumins > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is > what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing > doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that > helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain > very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. > > On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >> Jesse >> >> >> >> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me > being >> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only >> way to go. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
mags ... magneto's ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 5:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > what are mages? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 11:35 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it >> dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins Mags ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Boy don't have fat fingers on this form hehe. The vultures will eat ya a live. John 40864 EMP about to start priming -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition mags ... magneto's ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 5:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > what are mages? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 11:35 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it >> dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins Mags ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition mags ... magneto's ? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 5:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > what are mages? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 11:35 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it >> dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins Mags ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Front Baffle screw access
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2009
This is my 3rd attempt. sorry for any repeat posts. How did you guys get access to the screws that hold the front baffle, right underneath the prop governor? I am still trying to figure out how to drill it, let alone get a screw driver to it. Hopefully, the image was attached okay below! Also, are there any recommendations for exactly how to align the CB-1001A baffle in relation to the cowl? The plans don't give much info here. The plans also don't seem to indicate any baffle material for this area. I am wondering if I shoot for a tight fit or leave a gap for the cowl to come on and off? Thanks! Jae 40533 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277246#277246 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/test_711.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2009
My spelling always gets made fun of. I'm passing it along...It's a vicious cycle. I was really careful writing this one. Does this system use MSD? I have used MSD on high performance boats and have grown not to trust them. They were eating away at the cap and rotors and had intermittent problems which were hard to troubleshoot. Plus I got the bejesus shocked out of me. It felt like, i assume, a taser. bejesus is a word. 1. Bejesus A word commonly used to express great surprise or fear. You scared the BEJESUS out of me!!! -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277247#277247 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
John, Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it provide any additional power. Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if approaching ping or knock. Kelly 40866 QB Wings On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly > > Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the > electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies > the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. > > John G. Cumins > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is > what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing > doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that > helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain > very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. > > On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >> Jesse >> >> >> >> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me > being >> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only >> way to go. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Kelly The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points to trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual firing of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between 2 - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does control the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control is on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and so the point will not arc or wear out. I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is a much safer system then some of the other systems out there. JUST my 2 cents worth. John 40864 Emp -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition John, Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it provide any additional power. Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if approaching ping or knock. Kelly 40866 QB Wings On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly > > Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the > electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies > the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. > > John G. Cumins > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is > what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing > doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that > helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain > very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. > > On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >> Jesse >> >> >> >> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me > being >> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only >> way to go. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Front Baffle screw access
Date: Dec 11, 2009
A 90 angle drill and short threaded drill bits. Why hot put SS cap screws in there with an Allen wrench. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jchang10 Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Front Baffle screw access --> This is my 3rd attempt. sorry for any repeat posts. How did you guys get access to the screws that hold the front baffle, right underneath the prop governor? I am still trying to figure out how to drill it, let alone get a screw driver to it. Hopefully, the image was attached okay below! Also, are there any recommendations for exactly how to align the CB-1001A baffle in relation to the cowl? The plans don't give much info here. The plans also don't seem to indicate any baffle material for this area. I am wondering if I shoot for a tight fit or leave a gap for the cowl to come on and off? Thanks! Jae 40533 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277246#277246 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/test_711.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
My point was that the system does not advance timing, so you still have fixed timing, although there are multiple spark events from 25 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC. The only way to gain power or economy is to advance the timing once power has decreased from full takeoff power. On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly > > The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points to > trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual firing > of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between 2 > - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does control > the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to > distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. > > The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control is > on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and so > the point will not arc or wear out. > > I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is a > much safer system then some of the other systems out there. > > JUST my 2 cents worth. > > > John > 40864 Emp > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > John, > Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT > change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and > provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other > words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 > degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you > smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for > advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in > cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it > provide any additional power. > Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 > degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to > gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. > They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be > hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if > approaching ping or knock. > Kelly > 40866 > QB Wings > > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >> >> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>> Jesse >>> >>> >>> >>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >> being >>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only >>> way to go. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Kelly that is not correct. When the electronic unit is powered it will control the timing of the spark not the mags. The mages only control the timing of the spark when the electronic unit is powered off or failed. I would recommend that you call the number on there web site he might be able to explain it better to you than I can. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:13 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition My point was that the system does not advance timing, so you still have fixed timing, although there are multiple spark events from 25 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC. The only way to gain power or economy is to advance the timing once power has decreased from full takeoff power. On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly > > The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points to > trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual firing > of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between 2 > - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does control > the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to > distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. > > The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control is > on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and so > the point will not arc or wear out. > > I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is a > much safer system then some of the other systems out there. > > JUST my 2 cents worth. > > > John > 40864 Emp > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > John, > Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT > change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and > provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other > words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 > degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you > smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for > advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in > cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it > provide any additional power. > Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 > degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to > gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. > They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be > hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if > approaching ping or knock. > Kelly > 40866 > QB Wings > > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >> >> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>> Jesse >>> >>> >>> >>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >> being >>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the only >>> way to go. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Re-read their own description. The unit still uses one of the two mags to provide the timing of the initial spark event, and all other sparks are AFTER the initial spark. I read through the entire install manual and all descriptions. There is NO indication that the MSD unit advances the spark at all. The opening of the points provides the timing. There is minimal current as long as the MSD is functional, but it still is the points providing the timing.k The only difference is you get a multiple spark, kind of like the difference between a single event strobe and the Whelen Comet flash. The spark might be somewhat higher voltage, and the system assures that both left and right plugs are fired simultaneously even if the mag timing is different by a degree or two from left to right, because the system only uses one mag to trigger. John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly that is not correct. When the electronic unit is powered it will > control the timing of the spark not the mags. The mages only control the > timing of the spark when the electronic unit is powered off or failed. I > would recommend that you call the number on there web site he might be able > to explain it better to you than I can. > > > > John G. Cumins > President > > JC'S Interactive Systems > 2499 B1 Martin Rd > Fairfield Ca 94533 > 707-425-7100 > 707-425-7576 Fax > > Your Total Technology Solution Provider > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:13 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > My point was that the system does not advance timing, so you still > have fixed timing, although there are multiple spark events from 25 > degrees to 5 degrees BTDC. The only way to gain power or economy is to > advance the timing once power has decreased from full takeoff power. > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly >> >> The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points > to >> trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual > firing >> of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between > 2 >> - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does control >> the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to >> distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. >> >> The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control is >> on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and so >> the point will not arc or wear out. >> >> I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is > a >> much safer system then some of the other systems out there. >> >> JUST my 2 cents worth. >> >> >> John >> 40864 Emp >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> John, >> Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT >> change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and >> provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other >> words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 >> degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you >> smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for >> advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in >> cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it >> provide any additional power. >> Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 >> degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to >> gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. >> They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be >> hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if >> approaching ping or knock. >> Kelly >> 40866 >> QB Wings >> >> >> On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >>> >>> Kelly >>> >>> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >>> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it > dies >>> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >>> >>> John G. Cumins >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >>> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >>> >>> >>> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >>> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >>> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >>> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >>> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >>> >>> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>>> Jesse >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >>> being >>>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the > only >>>> way to go. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
The way Thomas described it to me at OSH this year, as the fuel air mixture swirls in the cylinder, the 20 degrees of spark produced by the MSD (which always fires at 25 degrees BTDC using magneto timing, the control box does not adjust timing) lights the mixture at different points as it swirls by. Light a pile of hay with a flare in one spot, or light the pile in 10 spots around the base. Which way will it fully burn faster? Think about why your airplane engine runs better on two plugs than on one during your mag check. This achieves similar results to advancing timing, but simpler. I am no expert here, but it makes sense to me. Also, you can read more on the science of advanced ignition timing in aircraft and how it relates to the G3i concept here: http://cafefoundation.org/v2/research_reports.php Read "Ignition dynamics I,II & III" and then this system makes even better sense. I looked hard at several ignition systems including Lightspeed, Electroair and LASAR among others. I also spoke with Larry Vetterman and a friend of Stein's who built and raced cars with MSD and installed G3i in his RV7. They both are happy with the reliability, increased engine performance and efficiency the G3i system provides. The system is also less than 1/2 the price of a dual lightspeed or LASAR system, and provides full redundancy using the mags should the system lose power. No second battery needed. I purchased the series-2 G3i system. I hope to have it running next summer. I recommend calling Thomas at G3i. He is a great guy to deal with and will answer all your questions. Again I am no expert, but after my due diligence, this system makes the most sense to me. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 6:33 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > John, > Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT > change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and > provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other > words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 > degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you > smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for > advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in > cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it > provide any additional power. > Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 > degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to > gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. > They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be > hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if > approaching ping or knock. > Kelly > 40866 > QB Wings > > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly >> >> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it >> dies >> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >> >> John G. Cumins >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >> >> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>> Jesse >>> >>> >>> >>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >> being >>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the >>> only >>> way to go. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: G3i Ignition
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Kelly Give the guy a call I talked to him at length and he will explain it. He says that the total advance runs between 31- 32 degrees at full power. Just give him a call you will be amazed. Have a great weekend and Christmas. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition Re-read their own description. The unit still uses one of the two mags to provide the timing of the initial spark event, and all other sparks are AFTER the initial spark. I read through the entire install manual and all descriptions. There is NO indication that the MSD unit advances the spark at all. The opening of the points provides the timing. There is minimal current as long as the MSD is functional, but it still is the points providing the timing.k The only difference is you get a multiple spark, kind of like the difference between a single event strobe and the Whelen Comet flash. The spark might be somewhat higher voltage, and the system assures that both left and right plugs are fired simultaneously even if the mag timing is different by a degree or two from left to right, because the system only uses one mag to trigger. John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly that is not correct. When the electronic unit is powered it will > control the timing of the spark not the mags. The mages only control the > timing of the spark when the electronic unit is powered off or failed. I > would recommend that you call the number on there web site he might be able > to explain it better to you than I can. > > > John G. Cumins > President > > JC'S Interactive Systems > 2499 B1 Martin Rd > Fairfield Ca 94533 > 707-425-7100 > 707-425-7576 Fax > > Your Total Technology Solution Provider > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:13 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > My point was that the system does not advance timing, so you still > have fixed timing, although there are multiple spark events from 25 > degrees to 5 degrees BTDC. The only way to gain power or economy is to > advance the timing once power has decreased from full takeoff power. > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly >> >> The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points > to >> trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual > firing >> of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between > 2 >> - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does control >> the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to >> distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. >> >> The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control is >> on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and so >> the point will not arc or wear out. >> >> I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is > a >> much safer system then some of the other systems out there. >> >> JUST my 2 cents worth. >> >> >> John >> 40864 Emp >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> John, >> Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT >> change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and >> provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other >> words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 >> degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you >> smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for >> advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in >> cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it >> provide any additional power. >> Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 >> degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to >> gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. >> They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be >> hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if >> approaching ping or knock. >> Kelly >> 40866 >> QB Wings >> >> >> On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >>> >>> Kelly >>> >>> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >>> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it > dies >>> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >>> >>> John G. Cumins >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >>> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >>> >>> >>> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >>> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >>> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >>> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >>> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >>> >>> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>>> Jesse >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >>> being >>>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the > only >>>> way to go. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
I don't need to call someone to find out something that is electrically and physically impossible. If the first spark occurs at 25 degrees, no additional sparks are going to advance timing. Multiple sparks do nothing for you unless the first spark doesn't ignite the mixture. You still have two plugs. You would need more plugs to ignite more of the mixture simultaneously. The CAFE reports and Ford testing also show this. Better atomization and better mixture distribution do far more for you than multiple sparks at lean mixtures. I had an MSD unit on a car in the 70s, until it failed stone cold dead. Not real interested in experiencing that in an aircraft. In fact the CAFE reports demonstrated that Bendix 1200 mags were as good or better than dual electronic ignition. But experimental lets us all make our own choices. Be careful to separate marketing hype from real data and facts. On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 10:16 PM, John Cumins wrote: > > Kelly > > Give the guy a call I talked to him at length and he will explain it. He > says that the total advance runs between 31- 32 degrees at full power. Just > give him a call you will be amazed. > > Have a great weekend and Christmas. > > John G. Cumins > President > > JC'S Interactive Systems > 2499 B1 Martin Rd > Fairfield Ca 94533 > 707-425-7100 > 707-425-7576 Fax > > Your Total Technology Solution Provider > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:55 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition > > > Re-read their own description. The unit still uses one of the two mags > to provide the timing of the initial spark event, and all other sparks > are AFTER the initial spark. I read through the entire install manual > and all descriptions. There is NO indication that the MSD unit advances > the spark at all. The opening of the points provides the timing. There > is minimal current as long as the MSD is functional, but it still is the > points providing the timing.k The only difference is you get a multiple > spark, kind of like the difference between a single event strobe and the > Whelen Comet flash. The spark might be somewhat higher voltage, and the > system assures that both left and right plugs are fired simultaneously > even if the mag timing is different by a degree or two from left to > right, because the system only uses one mag to trigger. > > John Cumins wrote: >> >> Kelly that is not correct. When the electronic unit is powered it will >> control the timing of the spark not the mags. The mages only control the >> timing of the spark when the electronic unit is powered off or failed. I >> would recommend that you call the number on there web site he might be > able >> to explain it better to you than I can. >> >> >> >> John G. Cumins >> President >> >> JC'S Interactive Systems >> 2499 B1 Martin Rd >> Fairfield Ca 94533 >> 707-425-7100 >> 707-425-7576 Fax >> >> Your Total Technology Solution Provider >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:13 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >> >> >> My point was that the system does not advance timing, so you still >> have fixed timing, although there are multiple spark events from 25 >> degrees to 5 degrees BTDC. The only way to gain power or economy is to >> advance the timing once power has decreased from full takeoff power. >> >> On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>> >>> Kelly >>> >>> The points are yes set to 25 degrees btdc and yes it does use the points >> to >>> trigger timing to the electronic box, but the box controls the actual >> firing >>> of the coil and also does it in numerous spark cycles, I was told between >> 2 >>> - 3 spark cycles depending on rpm. So the Electronic control does > control >>> the actual timing of the spark to the coils rotor, spark then goes to >>> distributor block then to the spark plug lead then to the plug itself. >>> >>> The only current that flows thru the points when the Electronic control > is >>> on is the point trigger of the engine at 25 degrees btdc that's all and > so >>> the point will not arc or wear out. >>> >>> I have heard great things and I like how this works a lot. I think it is >> a >>> much safer system then some of the other systems out there. >>> >>> JUST my 2 cents worth. >>> >>> >>> John >>> 40864 Emp >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >>> Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 4:34 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >>> >>> >>> John, >>> Actually, having read through the web site again, the system does NOT >>> change magneto timing. It uses one of the mag points to trigger, and >>> provides a multiple spark for 20 degrees after the trigger. In other >>> words, if your engine is timed to 25 degrees, it will fire at 25 >>> degrees all the time, except during starting. While this may give you >>> smoother running and a tiny bit better combustion, it does NOTHING for >>> advancing the timing event when at less than full power, such as in >>> cruise. So it will do almost nothing for fuel efficiency, nor will it >>> provide any additional power. >>> Systems like the Lightspeed Plasma advance the timing event 10-15 >>> degrees when the engine is producing something less than full power to >>> gain efficiency when less detonation margin is needed. >>> They do offer a manual advance for the MSD, but this would be >>> hazardous to your engine where you have no immediate feedback if >>> approaching ping or knock. >>> Kelly >>> 40866 >>> QB Wings >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 11:35 AM, John Cumins wrote: >>>> >>>> Kelly >>>> >>>> Yes the electronic controller will change the timing totally. When the >>>> electronic module is powered up it takes over for the mages but if it >> dies >>>> the mages will kick in. It is totally automated when turned on. >>>> >>>> John G. Cumins >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly > McMullen >>>> Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:24 PM >>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: G3i Ignition >>>> >>>> >>>> While the concept looks good in some ways, what I don't understand is >>>> what you actually gain over a well maintained magneto. The timing >>>> doesn't change, still fixed. So you get a multiple spark..maybe that >>>> helps if you have an oil burner, but seems like a lot of money to gain >>>> very little. Maybe I am missing something, maybe I misread. >>>> >>>> On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 6:42 PM, John Cumins wrote: >>>>> Jesse >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I am going to go with this ignition system it totally make since to me >>>> being >>>>> a old a&p having mags as a backup if the electronics goes out is the >> only >>>>> way to go. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: thermawing deicing
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Anyone have any insight into this all electric deicing product? http://www.rddent.com/products_therm-x.html Started as a NASA funded project, already STC'd for Columbia. Looks like its made possible with a 100amp/75 volt alternator. Not sure if it is a single or dual amp system. Details are a bit sketchy. Cool, now I can install a big flat panel TV in the back seat. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277306#277306 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Subject: Re: thermawing deicing
We've installed the complete system, less leading edges, on two (composite) planes. When they're finished, they'll be flown to RDD to have the leading edges installed. Unfortunately, there's no provision for using their alternator for anything but the de-ice system. They're a good company to work with. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:09 AM, cjay wrote: > > Anyone have any insight into this all electric deicing product? > > http://www.rddent.com/products_therm-x.html > > > Started as a NASA funded project, already STC'd for Columbia. Looks like > its made possible with a 100amp/75 volt alternator. Not sure if it is a > single or dual amp system. Details are a bit sketchy. Cool, now I can > install a big flat panel TV in the back seat. > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277306#277306 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: thermawing deicing
Date: Dec 12, 2009
I talked to them about a year ago as I was interested in flying out of the valley here in Oregon during the winter. However=2C it is not designed for known ice. During the winter we will get a cloud deck at ~3=2C000=2C freezing level at 6=2C000 and you need 12=2C000 to head east from here. So it didn't fit my needs at the time. It is a neat system. Vern Smith (#40324) From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com Date: Sat=2C 12 Dec 2009 08:42:13 -0800 Subject: Re: RV10-List: thermawing deicing We've installed the complete system=2C less leading edges=2C on two (compos ite) planes. When they're finished=2C they'll be flown to RDD to have the leading edges installed. Unfortunately=2C there's no provision for using t heir alternator for anything but the de-ice system. They're a good company to work with. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville=2C CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat=2C Dec 12=2C 2009 at 8:09 AM=2C cjay wrote: Anyone have any insight into this all electric deicing product? http://www.rddent.com/products_therm-x.html Started as a NASA funded project=2C already STC'd for Columbia. Looks like its made possible with a 100amp/75 volt alternator. Not sure if it is a s ingle or dual amp system. Details are a bit sketchy. Cool=2C now I can inst all a big flat panel TV in the back seat. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277306#277306 ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution le=2C List Admin. arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Subject: Cracked hole for engine mount
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
While enlarging the first of the holes through firewall from 3/16" to 3/8" for the engine mount, the drill got "caught." Kept going, got caught again. Removed it and noticed two cracks in the aluminum piece that goes between the firewall and the steel weldment (I believe this is F-1001B). These cracks are through the entire thickness of the material. I'm guessing this is case of too slow/too much pressure on the drill. I was drilling undersize, so I reamed it out to 3/8", but the cracks are still there. Anyone heard of this happening, or am I the only idiot that has done this? Of course, it's Saturday morning, so I have to wait two days to call Van's. Thinking about replacing that F-1001B part makes my head hurt. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Subject: Re: Cracked hole for engine mount
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
I just carefully examined the other top engine mount hole (which I haven't touched yet) and there's a huge chunk of material missing beyond where the 3/16" hole is! This is a quickbuild kit, of course, as I would have never riveted that piece with the hole looking like that. I'm wondering if that may be part of the problem. -Rob On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > While enlarging the first of the holes through firewall from 3/16" to 3/8" > for the engine mount, the drill got "caught." Kept going, got caught > again. Removed it and noticed two cracks in the aluminum piece that goes > between the firewall and the steel weldment (I believe this is F-1001B). > These cracks are through the entire thickness of the material. I'm guessing > this is case of too slow/too much pressure on the drill. I was drilling > undersize, so I reamed it out to 3/8", but the cracks are still there. > > Anyone heard of this happening, or am I the only idiot that has done this? > Of course, it's Saturday morning, so I have to wait two days to call Van's. > Thinking about replacing that F-1001B part makes my head hurt. > > -Rob > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
I'd like to use it if available. Alternatively, where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100deg countersink? BTW, I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by adding 2 additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes. Thanks! Bill Watson Durham NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Hey Bill "looking for a hole sinker not like Tiger" Watson, Mike Lefever presently has the countersink and just emailed me to see if it was alright to keep it until after the holidays. It would be best if he sent it directly to you when he's finished instead of detouring through me. PM me and I'll get you his info in case he doesn't see this. Later, - Lew "still pushing for an AP" Gallagher ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation? > > > I'd like to use it if available. > Alternatively, where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100deg countersink? > BTW, I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by adding 2 > additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes. > > Thanks! > Bill Watson > Durham NC > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Subject: Re: Cracked hole for engine mount
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Alright, it sounds like what I'm seeing is the joint between two aluminum pieces. It's not clear from the plans where those two aluminum pieces join, and since it's a QB, I didn't build that part. Not sure whether I feel smarter or dumber now :) -Rob On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > I just carefully examined the other top engine mount hole (which I haven't > touched yet) and there's a huge chunk of material missing beyond where the > 3/16" hole is! This is a quickbuild kit, of course, as I would have never > riveted that piece with the hole looking like that. I'm wondering if that > may be part of the problem. > > -Rob > > On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: > >> While enlarging the first of the holes through firewall from 3/16" to 3/8" >> for the engine mount, the drill got "caught." Kept going, got caught >> again. Removed it and noticed two cracks in the aluminum piece that goes >> between the firewall and the steel weldment (I believe this is F-1001B). >> These cracks are through the entire thickness of the material. I'm guessing >> this is case of too slow/too much pressure on the drill. I was drilling >> undersize, so I reamed it out to 3/8", but the cracks are still there. >> >> Anyone heard of this happening, or am I the only idiot that has done >> this? Of course, it's Saturday morning, so I have to wait two days to call >> Van's. Thinking about replacing that F-1001B part makes my head hurt. >> >> -Rob >> >> -- >> Rob Kochman >> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit >> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) >> http://kochman.net/N819K >> > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Kelly, I have no idea how this system works but to say it's physically impossible is not correct. Here is how it might work: The RPM's of an engine change slowly, compared to the time between cylinder firings. The black box knows the rpms, and thus the time between plug firings. From the time the points close, it can time the plug to next fire not 720 degrees, but say 710 degrees (10 degrees of advance) later. In other words, the points may control not the current firing, but the one after that, with a timer (sync'd to the rpm) controlling the actual time. As I said, I don't know if the system does this. But it might. It certainly wouldn't be hard to implement. The only real limitation is that the distributor contacts need to be in contact at that time. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277349#277349 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2009
It doesn't advance... Straight from the source: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=40666 You draw your own conclusions from that.. :) -------- RV-7A N777TY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277361#277361 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
Subject: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Bill, I could use it when you're done. -Rob On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Bill "looking for a hole sinker not like Tiger" Watson, > > Mike Lefever presently has the countersink and just emailed me to see if it > was alright to keep it until after the holidays. It would be best if he > sent it directly to you when he's finished instead of detouring through me. > PM me and I'll get you his info in case he doesn't see this. > > Later, - Lew "still pushing for an AP" Gallagher > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" < > MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> > > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 1:25 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation? > > >> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> >> >> I'd like to use it if available. >> Alternatively, where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100deg countersink? >> BTW, I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by adding 2 >> additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes. >> >> Thanks! >> Bill Watson >> Durham NC >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
Alright, you'll be next. Bill Rob Kochman wrote: > Bill, I could use it when you're done. > > -Rob > > On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Lew Gallagher > wrote: > > > > > Hey Bill "looking for a hole sinker not like Tiger" Watson, > > Mike Lefever presently has the countersink and just emailed me to > see if it was alright to keep it until after the holidays. It > would be best if he sent it directly to you when he's finished > instead of detouring through me. PM me and I'll get you his info > in case he doesn't see this. > > Later, - Lew "still pushing for an AP" Gallagher > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" > > > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 1:25 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation? > > > > > > I'd like to use it if available. > Alternatively, where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100deg > countersink? > BTW, I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by adding > 2 additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes. > > Thanks! > Bill Watson > Durham NC > > > -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- > 9;s Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided > he Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com > <http://www.buildersbooks.com/> > s.com/contribution" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > -Matt Dralle, Li - The > RV10-List Email Forum - > : > 0-List" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List< > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > = --> h > > > <http://forums.matronics.com/> > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > <http://forums.matronics.com/>http://kochman.net/N819K > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
From: "dougwells" <dougwells(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2009
I have Seattle Avionics SkyPad. Like time, I have been very happy with the unit (checking my email & this forum with it right now...) SSD - I have the 32 gig SSD drive and have ever chart, approach plate, Sectional, TACs, Lo-Enroute etc charts for the entire country installed. Takes up about 7-8 gigs. I find the 32gig size to be more than adequate. Lifetime - I have the lifetime charts..great deal. What a difference having every plate and chart in the country. SkyPad - nice device. I do all my weather and trip planning on it as well as my inflight work on it. Completely underestimated the convenience of doing it all on one machine......the skypad is definitely a great way to go... Financial Health of Seattle Avionics - I think that it helps alot that Bendix/King outsources their chart processing to SA. Gives SA more cash flow and I take comfort in knowing that Bendix/King takes great strides to keep their employees onboard.. ----- Short answer is JUST DO IT! The Skypad is a great deal! Best, Doug I really think EFBs have finally come of age and will help pilots evolve into better airman. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277389#277389 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Doug, JUST DO IT works for me. In fact I have already done it, but I went with an LE1600 modified per the description on Tim's web site. I have about $700 and an hour's time in the tablet pc with the ssd drive and memory upgrade. If you can build an RV10 you will be able to do this upgrade. Makes for a very quick and slick EFB. I am still learning my way around the Voyager software, but agree it is great to have all charts on board. After years of updating my Jepp charts, it is almost worth the cost of Voyager's lifetime subscription just to have the auto-updates. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277417#277417 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2009
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
Doug With the SkyPad and their software..... if you already have XM Satellite we ather coming in to a Garmin 496, can you tie into it and have it available for the SkyPad? Thanks, Don McDonald --- On Sat, 12/12/09, dougwells wrote: From: dougwells <dougwells(at)gmail.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription Date: Saturday, December 12, 2009, 9:36 PM I have Seattle Avionics SkyPad.- Like time, I have been very happy with t he unit (checking my email & this forum with it right now...) SSD - I have the 32 gig SSD drive and have ever chart, approach plate, Sect ional, TACs, Lo-Enroute etc charts for the entire country installed.- Tak es up about 7-8 gigs.- I find the 32gig size to be more than adequate. Lifetime - I have the lifetime charts..great deal.- What a difference hav ing every plate and chart in the country. SkyPad - nice device.- I do all my weather and trip planning on it as wel l as my inflight work on it.- Completely underestimated the convenience o f doing it all on one machine......the skypad is definitely a great way to go... Financial Health of Seattle Avionics - I think that it helps alot that Bend ix/King outsources their chart processing to SA.- Gives SA more cash flow and I take comfort in knowing that Bendix/King takes great strides to keep their employees onboard.. ------ Short answer is JUST DO IT!- The Skypad is a great deal! Best, Doug I really think EFBs have finally come of age and will help pilots evolve in to better airman. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277389#277389 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: thermawing deicing
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
dave.saylor.aircrafters(a wrote: > We've installed the complete system, less leading edges, on two (composite) planes. When they're finished, they'll be flown to RDD to have the leading edges installed. Unfortunately, there's no provision for using their alternator for anything but the de-ice system. > Dave, Do they have an installation manual for the 10 yet? Would you put it in your 10? As for the alternator, they probably don't want you to use it as a backup, but doubtful they could prevent it. Otherwise, it would be a grave waste of a potential redundancy when de-icing isn't needed, an attractive feature. Is it a single alternator that produces 100 amps? cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277441#277441 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
OK, making some progress on the debate, we know it doesn't advance timing. Does it dispel their fundamental claims, however?; efficiency smoother engine fuel saving horsepower Anyone have experience? cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277442#277442 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
It likely does make engine smoother with stronger sparks. Doubtful it does much for fuel savings, and very doubtful it makes any difference on horsepower. However, it probably makes running LOP more feasible with consistent and strong sparks. If you like having capacitive discharge multiple sparks, with magneto backup, certainly reasonable way to go. If you can't advance the timing when running at 75% and below, you aren't going to gain horsepower nor economy from that aspect, but you may be able to gain it by running LOP and adding manifold pressure to reach 75% on the lean side of peak. If you can achieve 13 gph lean of peak you will be at 195 hp and scooting as fast as Van intended on minimum fuel. On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 1:36 PM, cjay wrote: > > OK, > > making some progress on the debate, we know it doesn't advance timing. > > Does it dispel their fundamental claims, however?; > efficiency > smoother engine > fuel saving > horsepower > > Anyone have experience? > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277442#277442 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Subject: Re: thermawing deicing
>>Do they have an installation manual for the 10 yet?<< I'm not sure if the manual is out yet or not. Our installations weren't on 10s. >>Would you put it in your 10?<< No, too heavy for my personal philosophy, and there's an airspeed penalty 100% of the time from the cuffs (6 knots reported at Lancair speeds--YMMV). But then I'd pass on A/C and bunch of other heavy stuff. In Central CA we do see icing but it isn't as much of a factor as almost everywhere else. I wouldn't hesitate installing it for customers if they wanted it. No safety issues that I'm aware of. One of our installations was on a IV-P, which is still lacking the cuffs. Another IV-P customer is considering it because he says that even a tiny bit of rime slows him down a lot more than 6 kts. >>Is it a single alternator that produces 100 amps?<< It's a single alternator that looks very similar to the 100A alternator that you would normally see on the front of a Continental. The pulley is the only difference I can see but I don't know about internals. I'm not sure how much it puts out. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277441#277441 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
From: "dougwells" <dougwells(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Hi Don, I'm not 100% sure but I think the wx weather has to come from XM's WX box. The team at Seattle Avionics could tell you for sure. I have a seperate XM box that picks up the weather and then communicates it to my SkyPad via bluetooth. On the 496, as you know, the XM "box" is built into the unit. Great idea and I wish all vendors could offer this for their system but I guess Garmin has the exclusive right to have the XM box being built in. Smart of Garmin, I guess. I would be once you have the SkyPad, you would not want/need your 496. All you would need is the XM bluetooth box and you should be good to go.... Best, Doug Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277466#277466 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
Date: Dec 13, 2009
I've been thinking of taking the plunge and buying a system and voyager as well. I've looked around and found the line of netbook that Seattle Avionics sells as their skypad. It's sub $500 with a rotating hard disk. I found what I think would make a better platform at Newegg while looking at some of the newer netbooks. I'm sure it would run things well. Windows 7 is a plus over XP I'd think. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220661 This unit has wifi, Bluetooth, multi-touch screen, and 32GB SSD for just a bit over $500. Only 1GB of RAM so it would probably be best to bump it up to 2GB but that would be cheap. The Bluetooth gps they have pictured on their site is this one: http://www.buygpsnow.com/GlobalSat-BT-368i-SiRF-III-Bluetooth-GPS-Receiver-B T368i_989.aspx which they don't list a separate price for just in the bundle. Just need to wait for SEA Avionics to have another "lifetime" sale!! -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 10:15 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription Doug, JUST DO IT works for me. In fact I have already done it, but I went with an LE1600 modified per the description on Tim's web site. I have about $700 and an hour's time in the tablet pc with the ssd drive and memory upgrade. If you can build an RV10 you will be able to do this upgrade. Makes for a very quick and slick EFB. I am still learning my way around the Voyager software, but agree it is great to have all charts on board. After years of updating my Jepp charts, it is almost worth the cost of Voyager's lifetime subscription just to have the auto-updates. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277417#277417 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Everyone has been talking about voyager software. I've seen this company's software around for a while as well. I have not used voyager or rms's software but thought it would be worth a look for the sake of competition. http://www.rmstek.com/index.php I also just noticed that they sell their "bundle" with the asus netbook I sent in the last link from newegg. -ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 10:15 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription Doug, JUST DO IT works for me. In fact I have already done it, but I went with an LE1600 modified per the description on Tim's web site. I have about $700 and an hour's time in the tablet pc with the ssd drive and memory upgrade. If you can build an RV10 you will be able to do this upgrade. Makes for a very quick and slick EFB. I am still learning my way around the Voyager software, but agree it is great to have all charts on board. After years of updating my Jepp charts, it is almost worth the cost of Voyager's lifetime subscription just to have the auto-updates. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277417#277417 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake lines, coul d someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they used in lieu of the nylon Tee.- Is a single replacement fitting available which screws in to the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes through the firewall?=0A-=0A Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake Reservoir as s hown in Figure 3.=0AConnect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7 =271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.=0A-=0AKi nd regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.=0A-=0APatri ck Pulis=0A#40299=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A _______________ ___________________________________________________________________=0ASee w hat's on at the movies in your area. Find out now: http://au.movies.yahoo.c om/session-times/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
Patrick, there's really no reason to change those fittings ...... unless you just don't like the way the lines 'flow'. I didn't, so I used a brass 'T' with a nipple to connect the foot of the 'T' to the reservoir, and two 90's so that the lines flow parallel back to the cylinders ..... trimmed the plastic lines and used brass compression fittings on the tubing. Don't forget the insert inside the plastic tube. I also switched the plastic lines from the passenger side to the pilot side from the plastic to hard aluminum ..... which required inverting the master cylinders. I'll have aluminum lines from the passenger master cylinders all the way to the lower end of the gear leg, and switch to a short piece of flex to the brake cylinder. Inverting the master cylinders meant welding a longer tab to the pedal. I just didn't like the plastic on the pressure side, and the way the plastic tubing looked like spaghetti tossed in there. I know, you can't see it when the airplane's done .... but I know what it looks like. Linn Patrick Pulis wrote: > *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake > lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they > used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting > available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes > through the firewall?* > ** > *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake > Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02 > Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.* > > ** > > *Patrick Pulis* > > *#40299* > > *Adelaide, South Australia* > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now > <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/>. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Weld-On case study #605
I just finished doing my 2 right side windows using Weld-On. It went well and I feel confident finishing up with it. Thought I'd share the experience. Going into it, I bought the Weld-On before thoroughly researching peoples' experiences documented here on the list. In the end, I decided that I wouldn't go the epoxy resin and flock route because I sensed this would be the least strong solution. I didn't take Dave Saylor's approach to an easily replaceable window because it was the most demanding in terms of craftsmanship. In any case, I intended to overlay the joint with cloth and resin for a good finish. I would have probably tried one of the other adhesives discussed here by others but I had already made the investment in Weld-On from Vans. So I went with the factory solution. Weld-on has a strong chemical/plastic kind of smell and it can linger. Might not be the best thing to use in an attached garage. Even though it was cold out, I ran an exhaust fan and let some air thru so the smell didn't build up. I wore a simple paper mask the first time but used a mask with fresh filter cannisters the second and felt better about it. Closing up the containers and otherwise disposing of all droppings helps. I used the aluminum fingers and cleco clamping method exclusively. I removed the fingers about 90 minutes after setting them. Works well so far. Weld-on sets up fast but not too fast. My shop was probably in the low 70s and dropping. When I added the catalyst, I didn't try to get every last drop. Mixed for 3 minutes and started applying it using an acid brush. Is Weld-on is too thin and runny? It's ok, at least at 70F degrees. Not that hard to handle. Per some advice here on the list, I put a thick lumpy bead near the outside edge of the cutout. That is, in the crotch of the "L". On the first window I didn't apply any directly to the window. On the second, I put a thin layer on the window with the same bead on the fuselage. As someone said, it easier to clean up the excess than to fill up any gaps. That worked well. I was really rushed trying to make sure I didn't run out of working time but there was no need. It seems to skin over pretty quickly but actually a certain amount of drying seems to form a skin on small portions of adhesive. But if you go back to the mixing cup, you won't find a skin and there's no change in consistency after say 15 or 20 minutes. So you actually have lots of working time. When it does set, it does heat up in the cup so be careful about disposing in the trash before set up. Weld-on forms messy little strings if you try to work with it quickly. The solution here is to slow down and don't form strings. There's plenty of time. And it cleans up easily even after it starts to set up. Regarding surface prep and clean-up; I used acetone as the last step in surface prep with the thought that "it does matter how much you use". For clean-up I used a 50:50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits. This works pretty well even an hour or two after starting. I found that brush on protective film from Spruce useful. I tried keeping the plastic from the factory on the Plexiglas but found that replacing it with the brush on stuff gave me a clearer view of things. So once I trimmed the plexi down to it's final size, I removed the outer plastic and brushed on the blue stuff from Spruce. Then I removed the plastic from the inner surface and used plastic tape to mask the glue line. I used paper to mask of the inner surface to protect from the Weld-on. After gluing and clamping the plexi in place, I cleaned up the squeezed out Weld-on with the 50:50 mix, Then removed the tape and paper on the inner surface. This left a pretty clean line but a small spatula helped cleanup up some squeeze-out and the 50:50 mix cleaned up the rest. I'll probably coat the inner surface with the brush on film to protect from scratches during interior work. There seems to be several workable approaches to gluing in the windows. The factory approach with Weld-on seems to work well when combined with the intelligence on this list. Thanks to those who wrote up their experiences before. Bill "window 3 is teed up for tomorrow" Watson 40605 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
Date: Dec 14, 2009
Thanks for the helpful write-up. I will be using Weld-On as well and it's coming up soon on my build. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On case study #605 > > > I just finished doing my 2 right side windows using Weld-On. It went well > and I feel confident finishing up with it. Thought I'd share the > experience. > > Going into it, I bought the Weld-On before thoroughly researching > peoples' experiences documented here on the list. In the end, I decided > that I wouldn't go the epoxy resin and flock route because I sensed this > would be the least strong solution. I didn't take Dave Saylor's approach > to an easily replaceable window because it was the most demanding in terms > of craftsmanship. In any case, I intended to overlay the joint with > cloth and resin for a good finish. I would have probably tried one of the > other adhesives discussed here by others but I had already made the > investment in Weld-On from Vans. So I went with the factory solution. > > Weld-on has a strong chemical/plastic kind of smell and it can linger. > Might not be the best thing to use in an attached garage. Even though it > was cold out, I ran an exhaust fan and let some air thru so the smell > didn't build up. I wore a simple paper mask the first time but used a > mask with fresh filter cannisters the second and felt better about it. > Closing up the containers and otherwise disposing of all droppings helps. > > I used the aluminum fingers and cleco clamping method exclusively. I > removed the fingers about 90 minutes after setting them. Works well so > far. > > Weld-on sets up fast but not too fast. My shop was probably in the low > 70s and dropping. When I added the catalyst, I didn't try to get every > last drop. Mixed for 3 minutes and started applying it using an acid > brush. > Is Weld-on is too thin and runny? It's ok, at least at 70F degrees. Not > that hard to handle. > Per some advice here on the list, I put a thick lumpy bead near the > outside edge of the cutout. That is, in the crotch of the "L". On the > first window I didn't apply any directly to the window. On the second, I > put a thin layer on the window with the same bead on the fuselage. As > someone said, it easier to clean up the excess than to fill up any gaps. > That worked well. I was really rushed trying to make sure I didn't run > out of working time but there was no need. It seems to skin over pretty > quickly but actually a certain amount of drying seems to form a skin on > small portions of adhesive. But if you go back to the mixing cup, you > won't find a skin and there's no change in consistency after say 15 or 20 > minutes. So you actually have lots of working time. When it does set, it > does heat up in the cup so be careful about disposing in the trash before > set up. > Weld-on forms messy little strings if you try to work with it quickly. > The solution here is to slow down and don't form strings. There's plenty > of time. And it cleans up easily even after it starts to set up. > > Regarding surface prep and clean-up; I used acetone as the last step in > surface prep with the thought that "it does matter how much you use". For > clean-up I used a 50:50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits. This works > pretty well even an hour or two after starting. > I found that brush on protective film from Spruce useful. I tried > keeping the plastic from the factory on the Plexiglas but found that > replacing it with the brush on stuff gave me a clearer view of things. > So once I trimmed the plexi down to it's final size, I removed the outer > plastic and brushed on the blue stuff from Spruce. Then I removed the > plastic from the inner surface and used plastic tape to mask the glue > line. I used paper to mask of the inner surface to protect from the > Weld-on. After gluing and clamping the plexi in place, I cleaned up the > squeezed out Weld-on with the 50:50 mix, Then removed the tape and paper > on the inner surface. This left a pretty clean line but a small spatula > helped cleanup up some squeeze-out and the 50:50 mix cleaned up the rest. > I'll probably coat the inner surface with the brush on film to protect > from scratches during interior work. > > There seems to be several workable approaches to gluing in the windows. > The factory approach with Weld-on seems to work well when combined with > the intelligence on this list. > > Thanks to those who wrote up their experiences before. > Bill "window 3 is teed up for tomorrow" Watson > 40605 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Date: Dec 14, 2009
Bill, My experience was very similar to yours. I had no difficulty with the Weld-on except I was too stingy with my first window. Put it on thick is the best advice. It comes off easy enough with a little attention. The trick is to not wait too long to start the cleanup but not start it too early. I also used the aluminum clips to hold it in place. The only caution is to be careful with acetone near the plexi. All ketones are damaging and can cause crazing or clouding of the plexi. As long as you only use it where you plan to cover it with a layer of glass you should be ok. Having had a fiberglass strip epoxied to an RV-6 canopy depart in flight (two separate occasions) I don't trust epoxy to bond to plexiglass. -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277569#277569 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "sc_acro2" <mail(at)g3ignition.com>
Date: Dec 14, 2009
OK guys, you left me out on this topic. This forum topic was brought up earlier today during a phone conversation so I thought I would take a look. Little confusion, however not to bad. First of all there are a lot of good facts here and some that might need more insight. !) Does the G3i advance the timing beyond the magneto trigger points signal (NO) 2) Does it have an option to control timing (YES) manually? 2) Is it necessary to advance the timing on a multiple spark discharge system in aircraft use? (NO) Heres why, the engines RPM operating is very small window 2100 - 2700, not like in an automobile 700 5000 rpm. When there is a small RPM operating range optimal performance and economy can be obtained with fixed timing. There is not much to gain by driving the timing all over the place. Are there benefits to advancing the timing on a SINGLE spark system? Only at low power settings (60% or less) and higher than 12,500ft. This is a quote from Unison/ Lasar. With the understanding flame propagation heres why. X amount of air fuel mixture goes into the cylinder creates X amount of btu. When flame travel is slow you need to ramp up the ignition timing on a SINGLE spark system to get that complete burn @ peak cylinder pressure. Now with a non advancing MULTABLE spark discharge system with same amount of fuel, same amount of btus created, however this done in a shorter window of time from the multiple spark ignition of the air fuel mixture to get that complete burn. Just happens quicker. As far as air fuel mixture in aircraft engine, it is very poor atomization so multiple spark discharge just does a better job then a single spark system. 3) Field tested and testimonials show that fuel economy is improved 8 to 14% and static dyno pulls have shown an average 2 5% in power gains with stock timing configurations. There are many more benefits that the G3i system offers and we are always open to any discussion or questions pertaining to aircraft ignition systems or engine management peripherals. Thanks for all your interest in the G3i system Thomas Shpakow www.g3ignition.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277572#277572 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
Date: Dec 14, 2009
I found putting the mixed Weldon in a triangular squeeze bag with about a 1/4 inch cut opening works really well to apply a nice bead. And yes, you have to work steady, but there is plenty of time to do a good job. Dave Leikam ----- Original Message ----- From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 9:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Weld-On case study #605 > > Bill, > > My experience was very similar to yours. I had no difficulty with the > Weld-on except I was too stingy with my first window. Put it on thick is > the best advice. It comes off easy enough with a little attention. The > trick is to not wait too long to start the cleanup but not start it too > early. I also used the aluminum clips to hold it in place. > > The only caution is to be careful with acetone near the plexi. All > ketones are damaging and can cause crazing or clouding of the plexi. As > long as you only use it where you plan to cover it with a layer of glass > you should be ok. > > Having had a fiberglass strip epoxied to an RV-6 canopy depart in flight > (two separate occasions) I don't trust epoxy to bond to plexiglass. > > -------- > Dave Moore > RV-6 flying > RV-10 QB - FWF > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277569#277569 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
If you're talking about the Bonaco brake lines, Yup just an AN Tee fitting. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06980.html Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com Patrick Pulis wrote: > *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake > lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they > used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting > available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes > through the firewall?* > ** > *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake > Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02 > Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.* > > ** > > *Patrick Pulis* > > *#40299* > > *Adelaide, South Australia* > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now > <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/>. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
Hmmm, color me skeptical. Here's why. The vast majority of auto applications for 6 and 8 cyl engines with automatic transmissions operate between 1500 and 3000 rpm 90 percent of the time, not much different than aircraft (unless you are a real leadfoot). Their ignition systems are also optimized for peak torque in that same range with advanced timing. Now electronic, used to be mechanical and vacuum advance. Aircraft didn't incorporate mechanical or vacuum advance mechanisms because the manufacturers wanted to avoid additional potential points of failure, not because it wouldn't add power and efficiency. Efficiency wasn't a goal when the majority of engines were certified. Oh, and Unison DID show power and efficiency gains at normal altitudes and cruise power settings by advancing the timing. As for #3, I'd love to see some independent test data on the claimed power increases and fuel economy. Testimonials are a dime a dozen and worth less than said dime. Just been working long enough on auto and aircraft engines to have seen just about every fuel and ignition system marketed in the last 40 years. Can count on 1 hand the products that actually delivered even 50% of your claimed improvement. KM A&P/IA EAA Tech Counselor sc_acro2 wrote: > > OK guys, you left me out on this topic. Heres why, the engines RPM operating is very small window 2100 - 2700, not like in an automobile 700 5000 rpm. When there is a small RPM operating range optimal performance and economy can be obtained with fixed timing. There is not much to gain by driving the timing all over the place. Are there benefits to advancing the timing on a SINGLE spark system? Only at low power settings (60% or less) and higher than 12,500ft. This is a quote from Unison/ Lasar. With the understanding flame propagation heres why. X amount of air fuel mixture goes into the cylinder creates X amount of btu. When flame travel is slow you need to ramp up the ignition timing on a SINGLE spark system to get that complete burn @ peak cylinder pressure. Now with a non advancing MULTABLE spark discharge system with same amount of fuel, same amount of btus created, however this done in a shorte! > r window of time from the multiple spark ignition of the air fuel mixture to get that complete burn. Just happens quicker. As far as air fuel mixture in aircraft engine, it is very poor atomization so multiple spark discharge just does a better job then a single spark system. > 3) Field tested and testimonials show that fuel economy is improved 8 to 14% and static dyno pulls have shown an average 2 5% in power gains with stock timing configurations. > There are many more benefits that the G3i system offers and we are always open to any discussion or questions pertaining to aircraft ignition systems or engine management peripherals. > Thanks for all your interest in the G3i system > > Thomas Shpakow > www.g3ignition.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277572#277572 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
From: "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Our f/g overhead...went with the short version :D Walt Fuller Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277594#277594 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/007_177.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: closing the door
From: "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Nice idea...Might try something similar 8) Walt Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277597#277597 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "sc_acro2" <mail(at)g3ignition.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Kelly, These are great debates! However, its unfortunate that you did get the chance to stop by our booth in KOSH this year. We will be there next year 2010. If you get the chance, please stop by and meet us. Check out our products first hand. Hopefully some day you will get the opportunity to meet and or fly with one of our customers who has installed one of our systems to experience the benefits first hand. Until then, I hope to meet you someday and have a wonderful Holiday. Thomas Shpakow www.g3ignition.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277600#277600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Best wishes
Date: Dec 15, 2009
To All My Democrat Friends: Please accept with no obligation, implied or explicit, my best wishes for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, low-stress, non-addictive, gender-neutral celebration of the winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasion and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to practice religious or secular traditions at all. I also wish you a fiscally successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2010 but not without due respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures whose contributions to society have helped make America great. Not to imply that America is necessarily greater than any other country nor the only America in the Western Hemisphere . Also, this wish is made without regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith or sexual preference of the wishee. To My Republican Friends: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year A conservative libertarian "Live free or die. death is not the worst of evils" You only live twice (or thrice) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Read the can carefully. If you can smell it, you're doing it wrong. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277609#277609 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Hey Deems Where did you find those fance brake pedal system and are they still available. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 9:23 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement If you're talking about the Bonaco brake lines, Yup just an AN Tee fitting. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06980.html Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com Patrick Pulis wrote: > *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake > lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they > used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting > available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes > through the firewall?* > ** > *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake > Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02 > Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.* > > ** > > *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.* > > ** > > *Patrick Pulis* > > *#40299* > > *Adelaide, South Australia* > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now > <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/sessi on-times/>. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "Andy" <a.magnetoguy(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Hi guys, I'm one of the people that installed the G3 unit on an aircraft racing engine. It really does improve the fuel consumption (if you adjust the fuel to do so!). What I noticed was the ability to run the engine at settings that would otherwise shut the powerplant down when running on normal magnetos (without doing so when G3 was running). The G3 seems to be able to make use of the fuel much more effectively. It caught our team off guard at first (after performing a mag check in the air prior to landing -she quit on straight magnetos), but later realized that the range of adjustment had increased very considerably. It can go both ways. You can over-richen or lean to the extreme before roughness starts to sprout up. I'm a magneto guy by trade, so I'm naturally a bit cautious about seeing mags go bye bye to EI, but this one does plenty of good, without giving up my nice, old wind-up toy mags. As far as performance, we did better than we've ever done at the races. When on the ground, prior to installing the G3, the engine would not run above 2300 (on a good day). After: a cold engine, same prop, G3 on, the engine wound up to 3000 rpm with the tail chained down. Scary improvement. Its staying on the aircraft! I'm looking forward to a truly independent, scientific battle of the ignitions. Best bang for the buck in my personal opinion, but I'm anxious to see it tested by several leaders in the experimental industry. -Andy [Exclamation] -------- Do it the way you'de want it. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277642#277642 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Thomas, a question: If the system works as advertised (quicker burn due to multiple ignitions) is there a danger of too much of a good thing? Specifically, on full power take-offs, could the peak temperatures and pressures exceed design limits, and push detonation limits? -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277647#277647 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2009
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
The Brake pedals were made by Paul Grimstad, (Control Approach) an RV10 builder who used to live in the Portland area. Paul recently moved to Bend, Or. and I haven't heard from him for several months. The last update I got was that he had made some improvements and was also working on adapting the design to support RV, 6,7 & 9's. Its hard for me to see where improvement could be made. The parts are CNC Machine cut and the welding is done by a certified aircraft welder. I heard that he might have been in talks with abn LSA mfg. to deliver pedals for their production plane. There is at least one other builder (Les Kearny) who has a set of the pedals. Paul usd to be active on this list ,but I haven't heard or seen him in a while. If you want to contact Paul direct, email me off line and I'll look for the last contact info I had for him. As to the size of the AN fitting, I believe it was an AN4, . what eve size the threads/fittings for the Bonaco brake lines were is also the size of the tee, Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com John Cumins wrote: > > Hey Deems > > Where did you find those fance brake pedal system and are they still > available. > > > John G. Cumins > President > > JC'S Interactive Systems > 2499 B1 Martin Rd > Fairfield Ca 94533 > 707-425-7100 > 707-425-7576 Fax > > Your Total Technology Solution Provider > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 9:23 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement > > > If you're talking about the Bonaco brake lines, Yup just an AN Tee fitting. > > http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06980.html > > > Deems Davis > N519PJ > www.deemsrv10.com > > Patrick Pulis wrote: > >> *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake >> lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they >> used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting >> available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes >> through the firewall?* >> ** >> *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake >> Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.* >> >> ** >> >> *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02 >> Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.* >> >> ** >> >> *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.* >> >> ** >> >> *Patrick Pulis* >> >> *#40299* >> >> *Adelaide, South Australia* >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now >> >> > <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/sessi > on-times/>. > >> * >> >> >> * >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked hole for engine mount
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Rob I know exactly what you are talking about because it scared me too. It is the joint of the two pieces not a crack. I have a slow build too. Carry on and be happy. Chris #40072 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 3:24 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cracked hole for engine mount Alright, it sounds like what I'm seeing is the joint between two aluminum pieces. It's not clear from the plans where those two aluminum pieces join, and since it's a QB, I didn't build that part. Not sure whether I feel smarter or dumber now :) -Rob On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: I just carefully examined the other top engine mount hole (which I haven't touched yet) and there's a huge chunk of material missing beyond where the 3/16" hole is! This is a quickbuild kit, of course, as I would have never riveted that piece with the hole looking like that. I'm wondering if that may be part of the problem. -Rob On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Rob Kochman wrote: While enlarging the first of the holes through firewall from 3/16" to 3/8" for the engine mount, the drill got "caught." Kept going, got caught again. Removed it and noticed two cracks in the aluminum piece that goes between the firewall and the steel weldment (I believe this is F-1001B). These cracks are through the entire thickness of the material. I'm guessing this is case of too slow/too much pressure on the drill. I was drilling undersize, so I reamed it out to 3/8", but the cracks are still there. Anyone heard of this happening, or am I the only idiot that has done this? Of course, it's Saturday morning, so I have to wait two days to call Van's. Thinking about replacing that F-1001B part makes my head hurt. -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K "_blank">www.aeroelectric.com .com/" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ttp://forums.matronics.com -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "sc_acro2" <mail(at)g3ignition.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Hello Bob, No there is not an issue with pre-ignition/ detonation and cylinder pressure limits because the first spark is still at the predetermined timing, etc 25btc. The following sparks after that first hit continues with the air/fuel burn process. Cylinder temps can even run a little cooler because of the length of the combustion time is slightly shorter. Power and air/fuel management still creates an X amount of BTUs created in the cylinder with or without an EI. RPM. power settings, ignition timing, compression ratio, etc do play their roles in harmony or self-destruct. Thomas Shpakow www.g3igniton.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277684#277684 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/n28kt_engine_885.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: G3i Ignition
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
sc_acro2 wrote: > Hello Bob, > No there is not an issue with pre-ignition/ detonation and cylinder pressure limits because the first spark is still at the predetermined timing, etc 25btc. The following sparks after that first hit continues with the air/fuel burn process. Cylinder temps can even run a little cooler because of the length of the combustion time is slightly shorter. Power and air/fuel management still creates an X amount of BTUs created in the cylinder with or without an EI. RPM. power settings, ignition timing, compression ratio, etc do play their roles in harmony or self-destruct. > > Thomas Shpakow > www.g3igniton.com So Jesse, You asked the question. Why don't you give it a try and tell the rest of us, what you think. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277691#277691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Best wishes
Date: Dec 15, 2009
WELL SAID. AMEN!!!!! Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: DLM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 8:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Best wishes To All My Democrat Friends: Please accept with no obligation, implied or explicit, my best wishes for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, low-stress, non-addictive, gender-neutral celebration of the winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasion and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to practice religious or secular traditions at all. I also wish you a fiscally successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2010 but not without due respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures whose contributions to society have helped make America great. Not to imply that America is necessarily greater than any other country nor the only America in the Western Hemisphere . Also, this wish is made without regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith or sexual preference of the wishee. To My Republican Friends: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year A conservative libertarian "Live free or die. death is not the worst of evils" You only live twice (or thrice) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/15/09 01:52:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Best wishes
Date: Dec 16, 2009
I SECOND THAT AMEN. Wayne Edgerton N602WT From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> Subject: Re: Best wishes WELL SAID. AMEN!!!!! Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: DLM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 8:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: Best wishes To All My Democrat Friends: Please accept with no obligation, implied or explicit, my best wishes for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, low-stress, non-addictive, gender-neutral celebration of the winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasion and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to practice religious or secular traditions at all. I also wish you a fiscally successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2010 but not without due respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures whose contributions to society have helped make America great. Not to imply that America is necessarily greater than any other country nor the only America in the Western Hemisphere . Also, this wish is made without regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith or sexual preference of the wishee. To My Republican Friends: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year A conservative libertarian "Live free or die. death is not the worst of evils" You only live twice (or thrice) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Did I understand this correctly that you use weld-on for the windscreen only for the plexiglass-composit (cabintop) connection, right?! The fuselagetop -windscreen connection is achieved by epoxy/flox and glass strips. Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277760#277760 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Weld-On case study #605
Yes. I haven't done the windsheild yet but that is my understanding. Weld-on wouldn't do much with the aluminum I wouldn't think. Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > Did I understand this correctly that you use weld-on for the windscreen only for the plexiglass-composit (cabintop) connection, right?! > The fuselagetop -windscreen connection is achieved by epoxy/flox and glass strips. > > Thanks > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277760#277760 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
Many thanks Deems, you're a legend.=0A=0AKind regards and well wishes for t he festive season for you and your family.=0A=0AWishing you safe and smooth skies.=0A=0APatrick=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Deems Davis =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue , 15 December, 2009 1:22:51 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Nylon Brake Tee Re .net>=0A=0AIf you're talking about the Bonaco brake lines, Yup just an AN T ee fitting.=0A=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC0698 0.html=0A=0A=0ADeems Davis=0AN519PJ=0Awww.deemsrv10.com=0A=0APatrick Pulis wrote:=0A> *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they used in lieu of the nylon Tee.- Is a single replacement fitting available whi ch screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes through the firewa ll?*=0A> ** *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake R eservoir as shown in Figure 3.*=0A> =0A> **=0A> =0A> *Connect the brake lin es created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.*=0A> =0A> ** =0A> *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.*=0A> =0A> ** =0A> *Patrick Pulis*=0A> =0A> *#40299*=0A> =0A> *Adelaide, South Australia*=0A> =0A> =0A> --------------- ---------------------------------------------------------=0A> See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/ma iltagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/>. =0A> *=0A> =0A> =0A> - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ===================0A=0A=0A ______ ___________________________________________________________________________ _=0ASee what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now: http://au.movie s.yahoo.com/session-times/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Patrick: nice photo. Unfortunately I think you'll find that the brake fluid reservoir will have to be removed, to gain access when you rivet the ribs to the firewall. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277843#277843 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Very touching movie trailer about our passion
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoSsR-Bmj_Q Made my Lara Sanders a German film maker Enjoy Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277873#277873 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overhead Console
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Just received my overhead console from Geoff Combs today! Looks really nice and can't wait to install it. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277967#277967 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Valve
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
I thought I would post a few results from my oil cooler valve from Nonstop aviation. I also have the large oil cooler. Before installation I was seeing oil temps at around 175-180 f with OAT around 50-70. Once temps got cooler between 35-45 f I was seeing lower temps around 170-175. And a little lower with even colder temps. Even in a climb at 2200FPM and full power to 8500 122kts temps would not go over 175f. I called Bart at AeroSport Power to discuss the oil temps and if he thought the valve would help. His answer was yes give it a try. I installed it and can adjust from wide open to closed. I now can get my oil temps up to 192f with it fully closed at OAT of 24f. I can open it and within a minute or so temps will start to go down. I do believe this to be worth installing and does what it claims. I have been told from the Aeroshell reps that your oil temps should be above 180f for at least 20-30 minutes to burn off any condensation /moisture. FWIW Geoff -------- Geoff Combs RV-10 QB N829GW Finishing Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278027#278027 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing tip
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2009
> > > > > > PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:57 am Post subject: Wing tip Reply with quote > Lay up a 2 ply flat layup on your table with release agent. Cut a piece of this and slip it between the top and bottom trailing edges and adjust to the length you need and glue it in with cabosil mix. Let harden and then fill the top and bottom with chopped fiber mix to make it flush with the rest of the top and bottom. Finish as usual. > > Gary Specketer > 40274 Flying > Guys, See if I understand this correctly. I need to slit the end of the wing tip and then slide the "2 ply flat layup" in the split wing tip... Then glue in, chopped fiber mix, etc. Will the chopped fiber work by itself. Guess the concern is it's such a narrow point that it'll easily be broken off without the cloth base? Thanks in advance. I'm going to lay up the strip but wait on a reply to slitting the wing tip before going forward. Doug -------- Doug "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278113#278113 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing tip
Date: Dec 18, 2009
Call me and I can walk you through the process. Gary Specketer 770-403-3450 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 4:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing tip > > > > > > PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:57 am Post subject: Wing tip Reply with quote > Lay up a 2 ply flat layup on your table with release agent. Cut a piece of this and slip it between the top and bottom trailing edges and adjust to the length you need and glue it in with cabosil mix. Let harden and then fill the top and bottom with chopped fiber mix to make it flush with the rest of the top and bottom. Finish as usual. > > Gary Specketer > 40274 Flying > Guys, See if I understand this correctly. I need to slit the end of the wing tip and then slide the "2 ply flat layup" in the split wing tip... Then glue in, chopped fiber mix, etc. Will the chopped fiber work by itself. Guess the concern is it's such a narrow point that it'll easily be broken off without the cloth base? Thanks in advance. I'm going to lay up the strip but wait on a reply to slitting the wing tip before going forward. Doug -------- Doug "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278113#278113 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wing tip
Date: Dec 18, 2009
I assume you are trying to lengthen your wingtip trailing edge? Works great. Just be sure the slit is straight along the trailing edge and try to use a cutter which will leave the gap the exact thickness of the layup. I used a piece of trimming from the edge flange of the wingtip that fits under the skin rather than a new lay-up. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing tip > > >> >> >> >> >> >> PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:57 am Post subject: Wing tip Reply with >> quote >> Lay up a 2 ply flat layup on your table with release agent. Cut a piece >> of this and slip it between the top and bottom trailing edges and adjust >> to the length you need and glue it in with cabosil mix. Let harden and >> then fill the top and bottom with chopped fiber mix to make it flush with >> the rest of the top and bottom. Finish as usual. >> >> Gary Specketer >> 40274 Flying >> > > > Guys, > See if I understand this correctly. I need to slit the end of the wing > tip and then slide the "2 ply flat layup" in the split wing tip... Then > glue in, chopped fiber mix, etc. > > Will the chopped fiber work by itself. Guess the concern is it's such a > narrow point that it'll easily be broken off without the cloth base? > > Thanks in advance. I'm going to lay up the strip but wait on a reply to > slitting the wing tip before going forward. > > Doug > > -------- > Doug > "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will > always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278113#278113 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: navworx
Date: Dec 19, 2009
Anyone know the deal w/navworx? Their website now loads as a "coming soon" page. Either their domain expired or they are out of business? Ben Westfall #40579 - (dust accumulation phase) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2009
Subject: Re: windows & fiberglass
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
Did anyone else use cabosil to thicken the Weld-On? Does it work well? On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 2:08 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson < MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote: > MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> > > Cabosil? I'm getting ready to use this stuff despite the warnings but I > didn't know you could used cabosil to thicken it. Is that part of the > directions for use? > > Thanks. > > > johngoodman wrote: > >> > >> >> Weld-on was the worst product I've ever used in my life. The warning label >> makes MEK look like mouthwash. .Respirator, goggles, and gloves are >> essential. It sets too fast and it's too runny. Cabosil helps but cuts into >> your set time. Once it's dry, you will have a devil of a time getting the >> unwanted droppings off. I used it on the side windows but decided to try >> Silpruf 2000 for the windshield. I like the results so far and it's safe to >> work with. I know Dave Saylor did his with Silpruf so maybe he can chime in. >> John >> >> -------- >> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & >> Panel delivery soon. >> N711JG reserved >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=275548#275548 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: navworx
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Ben, I don't know about their website but I ordered their ads-b receiver through Stark Avionics. Stark is an agent for their products. You might give John a call and find out through him. Tom Hanaway Rv-10 sort of near and very far from finishing Boynton Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278216#278216 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: windows & fiberglass
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
yes, I used cabosil to thicken the weld-on. I mixed it to the consistency of peanut butter. I did not have any sagging issues. I double masked the windows and peeled the top layer just as the weld-on was setting. After it was all set I used paintable silicone to make a clean transition and paint the interior. Eric Gohr N410EG - flying -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278232#278232 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: windows & fiberglass
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
I used Eric's method and it has worked out very well. No problems at 120+ hours. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278249#278249 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2009
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: windows & fiberglass
FWIW, I asked the question after seeing a mention of if somewhere out here but didn't get an answer. So I didn't use any cabosil and really didn't find it a problem. I found that if I wetted the suface with a thin coat of Weld-on before gobbing it on, it would more or less stay in place. However, a peanut butter consistency would make it very easy. Bill "trying to get the shop warm enough for some glassing" Watson Rob Kochman wrote: > Did anyone else use cabosil to thicken the Weld-On? Does it work well? > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 2:08 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson > > wrote: > > > > > Cabosil? I'm getting ready to use this stuff despite the warnings > but I didn't know you could used cabosil to thicken it. Is that > part of the directions for use? > > Thanks. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2009
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: push-pull engine controls
Does anyone have a close-up picture of the standard push-pull controls mounted under the instrument panel??? Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Gretz GA-1000 heated pitot for sale
Date: Dec 20, 2009
New in the box. $325 ($100 below list). I decided to go with a different pitot install. Carl Froehlich ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gretz GA-1000 heated pitot for sale
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Carl, I'll take it if it hasn't sold. You can e-mail me at tsts4(at)verizon.net or call 703-590-9543 to work out all the details. Todd -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278274#278274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: windows & fiberglass
From: sean(at)braunandco.com
Date: Dec 20, 2009
I dint think so. Invented the rotor concept and the par achute I think. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile -----Original Message----- From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:17:12 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: windows & fiberglass This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Door Hinges
Date: Dec 20, 2009
I finished making the doors today and assembled the hinges. I notice that t he hinges(the half for the cabin=3B and the half for the door) are not on t he same planes=2C nor even parallel planes...................looking at the plans there no mention of this and which may be appropriate for the fore a nd aft........Anyone have advise on which to put in each location? Moreover=2C while the welds look fine=2C the hinges aren't very attractive and the hinge intersections will be visible. Is there anyone producing any aftermarket replacement......hopefully machined? Mike Lefever RV-10 "finish" kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Hinges
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Look very carefully at the plans, and which way the square block-like piece which holds the hinge pin is offset from the hinge plate. These drawings are correct, and apply to both doors in a left-right sense (when facing them), not in a fore-aft sense (which is reversed from one door to the other). The cabin top is curved; you want the hinge line to be straight. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278307#278307 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Hinges
Date: Dec 20, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I looked long and hard at milling a set for my build and then considered producing them as OEM replacements. The "complex" angles made me think a second time about milling them not that it would be that difficult. (I think they penciled out to $100/pair) Eventually I came to the conclusion that there was no need as the hinge are going to stay in place even as the door is ripped off in flight. Maybe I should spend my time figuring out a way to reinforce the horizontal stab instead? Ultimately we designed a cover plate I was going to leave polished till the painter shot it against my specific instructions.(It has to be the fumes!) After all that angst I have yet to see another -10 that made me say to myself "gee I am really glad I made that mod." I don't even think I notice mine as the doors may block the view of the hinges when open. Or maybe I don't see mine because they are painted. Regardless I think our solution is simple if you really want to go to the effort. Robin (painted photo attached) http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/doors.htm To install the hinge covers the scribes and routed out a channel for the hinge covers. Below are two photos of the canopy top. One side has the hinge covers and the other side is the standard configuration. I will either paint the metal covers with the plane or I will powder coat the covers to match the smoke chrome of my steps and other items on the plane. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Door Hinges
Date: Dec 20, 2009
I recall that that I needed to flip the hinges, basically the high end goes on the back end of the front hinge and the forward end of the back hinge. Don MacDonald makes the plates. They are very nice. P From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 5:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Door Hinges I finished making the doors today and assembled the hinges. I notice that the hinges(the half for the cabin; and the half for the door) are not on the same planes, nor even parallel planes...................looking at the plans there no mention of this and which may be appropriate for the fore and aft........Anyone have advise on which to put in each location? Moreover, while the welds look fine, the hinges aren't very attractive and the hinge intersections will be visible. Is there anyone producing any aftermarket replacement......hopefully machined? Mike Lefever RV-10 "finish" kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: push-pull engine controls
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Hi Linn=2C The first picture is a partial shot of the Van's factory plane. The next tw o are of my RV-10. Hope they help=2C Vern Smith (#324) www.aviationstop.com > Date: Sun=2C 20 Dec 2009 11:58:43 -0500 > From: pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: push-pull engine controls > > > Does anyone have a close-up picture of the standard push-pull controls > mounted under the instrument panel??? > Linn > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. /9j/4dhFRXhpZgAASUkqAAgAAAAMAA4BAgAgAAAAngAAAA8BAgAPAAAAvgAAABABAgALAAAA3AAA ABIBAwABAAAAAQAAABoBBQABAAAA6gAAABsBBQABAAAA8gAAACgBAwABAAAAAgAAADEBAgATAAAA +gAAADIBAgAUAAAAGgEAABMCAwABAAAAAgAAAGmHBAABAAAAVgEAAKXEBwAoAAAALgEAAAYEAABL T05JQ0EgTUlOT0xUQSBESUdJVEFMIENBTUVSQSAgAEtPTklDQSBNSU5PTFRBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAERpTUFHRSBaMTAAAAAASAAAAAEAAABIAAAAAQAAAERpTUFHRSBaMTAgVmVyMS4wMAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAMjAwNzowMzowNiAxNjoxMToxMABQcmludElNADAyNTAAAAQAAQAWABYAAgAAAAAB 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December 05, 2009 - Present

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fl