RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fu
December 31, 2009 - January 05, 2010
I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
wheels, and a drdt2.
I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
Sent from my iPod
On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
wrote:
>
> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Shavitz" <rashvac(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Back rivet tailcone |
Can someone tell me the exact order to back rivet tailcone and if the
radius in the side and top skins can be back riveted
Russell Shavitz
Arlington Heights IL
847-417-6622
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Most complete tool kit |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Chris, like the subject of Primer, tools bring out the personal side of
the RV-10 list. Several will tell you that one brand is better over
another. Most like the Beach Boys song "Be true to your school" have
not played the field much. The key is the feel, balance and weight in
Your Hands. Speed is indeed a factor in improving quality of
production. You can always regulate down a faster product for slower
cutting or deity forbid "Drill an errant rivet". The inverse is not
possible. Trueness of the "chucked bit" is another. Some chucks tend to
wear out more quickly than others. Many builders love the keyless
chuck. Noise of the pneumatics and consistent speed under load are two
metrics to measure your options against. Pilots tend to go deaf from
flying without noise cancelling headsets. Builders do it from their
pneumatic tools. Be sure and get protection that you enjoy wearing.
I have two Sioux palm reversibles and love them. I found the Dotco with
ergonomic grip to be even more comfortable. I cannot stand the
miniature (hard to find) special size key necessary to change items in
the Sioux chuck. I would love to have a keyless chuck in just one of
mine but there are tradeoffs when trying to back out a stuck bit that is
turning in the chuck. The reason I have two small drives (five in
total) is the convenience of have PRE set up a 0.030 bit, another with
the 0.040, another with a micro cage for countersinking and another for
scotchbrite disks on an arbor. Many of the micro cages will have a
bushing rather than a bearing and begin migrating at the end of the
build as your QC level becomes more demanding. And yes, I use both
reamers and Cogswell Deburr tools.
Some of us follow the path of Tiger Woods in life, I have a fetish for
tools. A quality tool in the hand of a craftsman, properly applied can
be a thing of beauty. For shops to die for, visit the archive of Bob
Newman's - TCW workshop. Pictures can be far more eloquent.
No one has yet mentioned a 90 or 45 degree drill for those tight spots
using 1/4" x 28 threaded bits. I even have a "East Indian" manufactured
pancake drill for hard to reach areas with only 1" of headroom. 60% of
my stuff has come from Ebay. About 10% gets re-sold so Caveat Emptor.
Many are building quality products with the most basic of builder tools.
A majority of builders learn about the tool options later in the build
rather than in the beginning. Few of them have been willing to sell
anything after completion of their kit. Others are fortunate enough to
have access to the DRDT2 dimpler or share it around with friends. That
will be the hardest tool to sneak past my wife in her random tours of
the hangar. Visit Tim Olson's site on how to engage your partner in the
build and its rewards.
Enjoy the journey and consider engaging one or several EAA Tech Advisors
(near you) to share with you the roads less traveled or infrequently
repaved by builder mistakes. Visit
http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html . Feel at ease contacting
builders Offline - Anytime.
John Cox
Aurora, OR
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
don't quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in
a drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to
exist, and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around
2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely
to be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways
when they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never
really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if
one is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as
is and upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no
different than the kit itself, some items really "need" to be
replaced/upgraded and many don't, others are fine as it is even though
some have upgraded. My examples would focus around the landing gear;
axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good,
so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without
it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free
www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp;
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much ==========
> bsp; via the ==========
>
>
>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Most complete tool kit |
John
Nicely said.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp in deburr mode then dimpling then Primer Yes I won the primer
war!!!!!
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
Chris, like the subject of Primer, tools bring out the personal side of the
RV-10 list. Several will tell you that one brand is better over another.
Most like the Beach Boys song "Be true to your school" have not played the
field much. The key is the feel, balance and weight in Your Hands. Speed is
indeed a factor in improving quality of production. You can always regulate
down a faster product for slower cutting or deity forbid "Drill an errant
rivet". The inverse is not possible. Trueness of the "chucked bit" is
another. Some chucks tend to wear out more quickly than others. Many
builders love the keyless chuck. Noise of the pneumatics and consistent
speed under load are two metrics to measure your options against. Pilots
tend to go deaf from flying without noise cancelling headsets. Builders do
it from their pneumatic tools. Be sure and get protection that you enjoy
wearing.
I have two Sioux palm reversibles and love them. I found the Dotco with
ergonomic grip to be even more comfortable. I cannot stand the miniature
(hard to find) special size key necessary to change items in the Sioux
chuck. I would love to have a keyless chuck in just one of mine but there
are tradeoffs when trying to back out a stuck bit that is turning in the
chuck. The reason I have two small drives (five in total) is the
convenience of have PRE set up a 0.030 bit, another with the 0.040, another
with a micro cage for countersinking and another for scotchbrite disks on an
arbor. Many of the micro cages will have a bushing rather than a bearing
and begin migrating at the end of the build as your QC level becomes more
demanding. And yes, I use both reamers and Cogswell Deburr tools.
Some of us follow the path of Tiger Woods in life, I have a fetish for
tools. A quality tool in the hand of a craftsman, properly applied can be a
thing of beauty. For shops to die for, visit the archive of Bob Newman's -
TCW workshop. Pictures can be far more eloquent.
No one has yet mentioned a 90 or 45 degree drill for those tight spots using
1/4" x 28 threaded bits. I even have a "East Indian" manufactured pancake
drill for hard to reach areas with only 1" of headroom. 60% of my stuff has
come from Ebay. About 10% gets re-sold so Caveat Emptor.
Many are building quality products with the most basic of builder tools. A
majority of builders learn about the tool options later in the build rather
than in the beginning. Few of them have been willing to sell anything after
completion of their kit. Others are fortunate enough to have access to the
DRDT2 dimpler or share it around with friends. That will be the hardest
tool to sneak past my wife in her random tours of the hangar. Visit Tim
Olson's site on how to engage your partner in the build and its rewards.
Enjoy the journey and consider engaging one or several EAA Tech Advisors
(near you) to share with you the roads less traveled or infrequently repaved
by builder mistakes. Visit http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html .
Feel at ease contacting builders Offline - Anytime.
John Cox
Aurora, OR
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
don't quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a
drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist,
and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways when
they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never
really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is and
upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different than
the kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many
don't, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My examples
would focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet tailcone |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
It has been a long time since I did my tailcone, but with some help I was able
to back rivet the radius of the side skins. I bucked the top. I just stared at
one end (can't remember front or back) and riveted the radius starting from the
bottom and working my way around to the side. When the radius was done, I went
to the next bulkhead before doing the side skins. It can be done, but I don't
recall it being any easier in the radius that it would have been bucking,
and I still needed help to hold the tailcone while I riveted.
Eric Kallio
N518RV wiring and panel installation
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279457#279457
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Automotive Spark Plugs |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
For those who frequent OSH seminars, Champion is often conducting Educational Seminars
that can be both informative and entertaining. Then you can take what
they say with a grain of salt. The Aviation plug is designed and constructed
for an entirely more reliable purpose than automotive. If there were only as
many aviation plugs in use as Asian manufactured automotive we might see the competitive
forces of price make that subject a Non Issue. There is a big increase
in consumable cost. As a youth, when I was drag racing, I had three sets
of entirely different plugs for atmospheric changes on the track. We called
that a Pit Stop.
Mikes post was about cost/benefit.
TBO: The original Rotax TBOs were down around 1,000 hours now they are improving
to match Lyco/Continental. Turbo powered engines create additional needs on
the plug design and the TBO reflects the Trade Off of additional power output
yet I have never seen a plug properly rotated, cleaned, gapped and not dropped
that went 2,000 TBO... maybe 1000 hours.
Rick, when you get back from the airport can you tell us which plug to buy? The
Champion Go/No Go gage included a measure of when the anode of the plug has sacrificed
enough metal to no longer have enough mass to continue reliably in service
(between Annuals - I mean Conditionals). Plugs should be matched for reliability
and performance for the environment they operate and the source of
power they are provided. Last week there was discussion of blast tubes to the
Mag without discussion on when pressurized mags provide additional value - that
is another subject. The tubes discussed were for cooling the Mag case and
reducing the failure rate of the condenser inside.
Till you have seen an auto plug blow out, an anode burn off, an improper heat range
plug or the damage from a decaying magneto, or the failure of an electronic
ignition system you just have not experienced all the fun that is out there
for us all.
The decision of cost/benefit is not in VANS hands, it is in the many choices we
make as the Manufacturer and the QC that we put on our product before the name
goes on. I have respect for both the workmanship of Rick's and Don's aircraft.
To me it's not about the $40,000. A close friend once said "When the engine
stops in flight, a fire breaks out or you fly without gas.... The aircraft
is instantly the property of the insurance company and your estate." Bob Hoover
said " It is the job of every good pilot to fly the aircraft to the landing
site, walk away with all the passengers that were onboard and assess your estate
value over a stiff drink". Sully was this year's hero for following to a
T that exact mantra. I have lost a few friends over the years who tried to do
the impossible or cut a corner or two while traveling life's highway. Let's
have another year of no lost RV-10s or their pilots.
Here is a question for New Years Eve - "How many of you check the resistance of
your plugs at each annual?"
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)cox.net
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
I'd be willing to bet those plugs John Force runs in his Funny Cars are a bit "different"
than standard auto plugs but in theory your right Don.
If I recall how it was explained to me, the plug needs to be able to burn off deposits
and keep firing even with a buildup. I believe that the plug doesn't know
so much what type of engine it is installed in but what type of ignition keeps
it firing cleanly. The people using automotive plugs are using electronic
ignition designed for automotive plugs, myself I have two conventional mags and
I use plugs designed to work with those magnetos. If you keep your plugs rotated,
cleaned and gapped properly they should go all the way to TBO. Unless you
drop one....then you get to bitch about how expensive they are.
Rick Sked
N246RS
---- Don McDonald wrote:
>
> Last time I ck'd, all the race cars with tons more $$$$'s in their engines, use
automotive plugs. If aircraft plugs werebetter, trust me, they'd be using them.
> Even the plugs Klaus recommends are automotive.
> Don
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 8:00 AM
>
>
>
> I am not the sharpest tool in drawer, but why would you want to take a chance
with an automotive product to save a few bucks on a $40K engine.
> Aircraft plugs are designed for A/C engines. Explain me?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279410#279410
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> le, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet tailcone |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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cy5jb20+DQpTZW50OiBUaHUgRGVjIDMxIDExOjQyOjMwIDIwMDkNClN1YmplY3Q6IFJWMTAtTGlz
dDogUmU6IEJhY2sgcml2ZXQgdGFpbGNvbmUNCg0KLS0+IFJWMTAtTGlzdCBtZXNzYWdlIHBvc3Rl
ZCBieTogIkVyaWNfS2FsbGlvIiA8c2NvdXQwMTlAbXNuLmNvbT4NCg0KSXQgaGFzIGJlZW4gYSBs
b25nIHRpbWUgc2luY2UgSSBkaWQgbXkgdGFpbGNvbmUsIGJ1dCB3aXRoIHNvbWUgaGVscCBJIHdh
cyBhYmxlIHRvIGJhY2sgcml2ZXQgdGhlIHJhZGl1cyBvZiB0aGUgc2lkZSBza2lucy4gSSBidWNr
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09DQoNCg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com |
Chris,
I used a makita cordless drill so far in the build process(currently worki
ng on fuselage). I purchased a CP reversible drill and I didn't like havin
g to wear ear plugs all the time (kind of loud) or lugging the air hose ar
ound with me. As far as the rest of the tools I wouldn't do without my tun
gsten bucking bar. I just wish I would have bought it at the beginning.
Jeff Nichols
#40648
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2009 11:55 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start bu
ilding an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I don'
t quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple refere
nces (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a drill
for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist, and
the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways whe
n they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never re
ally felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is an
d upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different tha
n the kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and man
y don't, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My examp
les would focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
.rr.com>
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without
it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp; ======
====
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much ==========
> bsp; via the ==========
>
>
>
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com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
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k">www.howtocrimp.com
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et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Automotive Spark Plugs |
Agreed. I have not seen a set of aviation plugs go more than 500 hours. I
usually have them cleaned, gapped and check by an IA each annual; I don't
have the EASY tools. IIRC the Glastar O360A4M and the 10 IO540D4A5 both take
the same plug. Normally at about 350-400 hours some of the plugs will not
pass the test. At that point I install a new set and keep the serviceable
plugs in the tool box (you do have a tool box (including spares) in the
baggage area?). In about 4000 hours I have had a single ignition problem
(TC177RG) which required an urgent landing. Fortunately the mechanic in
Central Kansas had a serviceable plug in his bag of tricks and I was able to
be on my way to OSH with little delay. If you are using aviation plugs,
check them at the annual; if you are using automotive plugs they are
inexpensive enough to check/install new at each annual. If using automotive,
I suggest you carry an extra box to avoid a trip to an auto store at an
inconvenient time.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
For those who frequent OSH seminars, Champion is often conducting
Educational Seminars that can be both informative and entertaining. Then
you can take what they say with a grain of salt. The Aviation plug is
designed and constructed for an entirely more reliable purpose than
automotive. If there were only as many aviation plugs in use as Asian
manufactured automotive we might see the competitive forces of price make
that subject a Non Issue. There is a big increase in consumable cost. As a
youth, when I was drag racing, I had three sets of entirely different plugs
for atmospheric changes on the track. We called that a Pit Stop.
Mikes post was about cost/benefit.
TBO: The original Rotax TBOs were down around 1,000 hours now they are
improving to match Lyco/Continental. Turbo powered engines create
additional needs on the plug design and the TBO reflects the Trade Off of
additional power output yet I have never seen a plug properly rotated,
cleaned, gapped and not dropped that went 2,000 TBO... maybe 1000 hours.
Rick, when you get back from the airport can you tell us which plug to buy?
The Champion Go/No Go gage included a measure of when the anode of the plug
has sacrificed enough metal to no longer have enough mass to continue
reliably in service (between Annuals - I mean Conditionals). Plugs should
be matched for reliability and performance for the environment they operate
and the source of power they are provided. Last week there was discussion
of blast tubes to the Mag without discussion on when pressurized mags
provide additional value - that is another subject. The tubes discussed
were for cooling the Mag case and reducing the failure rate of the condenser
inside.
Till you have seen an auto plug blow out, an anode burn off, an improper
heat range plug or the damage from a decaying magneto, or the failure of an
electronic ignition system you just have not experienced all the fun that is
out there for us all.
The decision of cost/benefit is not in VANS hands, it is in the many choices
we make as the Manufacturer and the QC that we put on our product before the
name goes on. I have respect for both the workmanship of Rick's and Don's
aircraft. To me it's not about the $40,000. A close friend once said "When
the engine stops in flight, a fire breaks out or you fly without gas.... The
aircraft is instantly the property of the insurance company and your
estate." Bob Hoover said " It is the job of every good pilot to fly the
aircraft to the landing site, walk away with all the passengers that were
onboard and assess your estate value over a stiff drink". Sully was this
year's hero for following to a T that exact mantra. I have lost a few
friends over the years who tried to do the impossible or cut a corner or two
while traveling life's highway. Let's have another year of no lost RV-10s
or their pilots.
Here is a question for New Years Eve - "How many of you check the resistance
of your plugs at each annual?"
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)cox.net
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
I'd be willing to bet those plugs John Force runs in his Funny Cars are a
bit "different" than standard auto plugs but in theory your right Don.
If I recall how it was explained to me, the plug needs to be able to burn
off deposits and keep firing even with a buildup. I believe that the plug
doesn't know so much what type of engine it is installed in but what type of
ignition keeps it firing cleanly. The people using automotive plugs are
using electronic ignition designed for automotive plugs, myself I have two
conventional mags and I use plugs designed to work with those magnetos. If
you keep your plugs rotated, cleaned and gapped properly they should go all
the way to TBO. Unless you drop one....then you get to bitch about how
expensive they are.
Rick Sked
N246RS
---- Don McDonald wrote:
>
> Last time I ck'd, all the race cars with tons more $$$$'s in their
engines, use automotive plugs. If aircraft plugs werebetter, trust me,
they'd be using them.
> Even the plugs Klaus recommends are automotive.
> Don
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 8:00 AM
>
>
>
> I am not the sharpest tool in drawer, but why would you want to take a
chance with an automotive product to save a few bucks on a $40K engine.
> Aircraft plugs are designed for A/C engines. Explain me?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279410#279410
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> le, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Automotive Spark Plugs |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Don't you have to overhaul these tractor engines at 500 hours? Hmmm. 2000 hours
is GREAT news!!! I retract my TBO plug comment now that I'm correctly informed.
:). And for all you rivet pounders out there....I'm 1.5 hours closer to that
overhaul!!
Rick Sked
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 11:51:00
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
For those who frequent OSH seminars, Champion is often conducting Educational Seminars
that can be both informative and entertaining. Then you can take what
they say with a grain of salt. The Aviation plug is designed and constructed
for an entirely more reliable purpose than automotive. If there were only as
many aviation plugs in use as Asian manufactured automotive we might see the competitive
forces of price make that subject a Non Issue. There is a big increase
in consumable cost. As a youth, when I was drag racing, I had three sets
of entirely different plugs for atmospheric changes on the track. We called
that a Pit Stop.
Mikes post was about cost/benefit.
TBO: The original Rotax TBOs were down around 1,000 hours now they are improving
to match Lyco/Continental. Turbo powered engines create additional needs on
the plug design and the TBO reflects the Trade Off of additional power output
yet I have never seen a plug properly rotated, cleaned, gapped and not dropped
that went 2,000 TBO... maybe 1000 hours.
Rick, when you get back from the airport can you tell us which plug to buy? The
Champion Go/No Go gage included a measure of when the anode of the plug has sacrificed
enough metal to no longer have enough mass to continue reliably in service
(between Annuals - I mean Conditionals). Plugs should be matched for reliability
and performance for the environment they operate and the source of
power they are provided. Last week there was discussion of blast tubes to the
Mag without discussion on when pressurized mags provide additional value - that
is another subject. The tubes discussed were for cooling the Mag case and
reducing the failure rate of the condenser inside.
Till you have seen an auto plug blow out, an anode burn off, an improper heat range
plug or the damage from a decaying magneto, or the failure of an electronic
ignition system you just have not experienced all the fun that is out there
for us all.
The decision of cost/benefit is not in VANS hands, it is in the many choices we
make as the Manufacturer and the QC that we put on our product before the name
goes on. I have respect for both the workmanship of Rick's and Don's aircraft.
To me it's not about the $40,000. A close friend once said "When the engine
stops in flight, a fire breaks out or you fly without gas.... The aircraft
is instantly the property of the insurance company and your estate." Bob Hoover
said " It is the job of every good pilot to fly the aircraft to the landing
site, walk away with all the passengers that were onboard and assess your estate
value over a stiff drink". Sully was this year's hero for following to a
T that exact mantra. I have lost a few friends over the years who tried to do
the impossible or cut a corner or two while traveling life's highway. Let's
have another year of no lost RV-10s or their pilots.
Here is a question for New Years Eve - "How many of you check the resistance of
your plugs at each annual?"
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked(at)cox.net
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
I'd be willing to bet those plugs John Force runs in his Funny Cars are a bit "different"
than standard auto plugs but in theory your right Don.
If I recall how it was explained to me, the plug needs to be able to burn off deposits
and keep firing even with a buildup. I believe that the plug doesn't know
so much what type of engine it is installed in but what type of ignition keeps
it firing cleanly. The people using automotive plugs are using electronic
ignition designed for automotive plugs, myself I have two conventional mags and
I use plugs designed to work with those magnetos. If you keep your plugs rotated,
cleaned and gapped properly they should go all the way to TBO. Unless you
drop one....then you get to bitch about how expensive they are.
Rick Sked
N246RS
---- Don McDonald wrote:
>
> Last time I ck'd, all the race cars with tons more $$$$'s in their engines, use
automotive plugs. If aircraft plugs werebetter, trust me, they'd be using them.
> Even the plugs Klaus recommends are automotive.
> Don
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Automotive Spark Plugs
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 8:00 AM
>
>
>
> I am not the sharpest tool in drawer, but why would you want to take a chance
with an automotive product to save a few bucks on a $40K engine.
> Aircraft plugs are designed for A/C engines. Explain me?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279410#279410
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> le, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Automotive Spark Plugs |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
As I have only had Dual Mags on now 9 different planes what do people use with
one electronic and one Mag? Automotive plugs on the electronic and Aviation plugs
on the Mag?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Don't forget a Torque Wrench that works in inch-pounds.
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine on floor &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279494#279494
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder skins |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I found it best to speak with the individual inspector from MD-RA. Our inspector
was fine with being able to roll back one skin and look in. I'm sure with the
first inspections he will want to see all rivets, both shop and bucked heads.
Later , if your work meets his approval he may let you close up small areas
so the component will have a larger amount of work completed to inspect. He will
use a mirror or bore scope ( if you have access to one) to look inside the
closed in areas.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279503#279503
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Counterbalance Holes |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I used my Drummel , which has the long flexible shaft extension and a small sanding
drum. Very quick and easy.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279504#279504
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis Rodriguez <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
Yes, that's another tool to add.
Sent from my iPod
On Dec 31, 2009, at 4:47 PM, "johngoodman"
wrote:
> >
>
> Don't forget a Torque Wrench that works in inch-pounds.
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine
> on floor & Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279494#279494
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet tailcone |
That is exactly how Mary and I riveted our tailcone.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 31, 2009, at 2:59 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
Don't remember the order I did it, but it was consistent with the plans.
Everything was back riveted for me with the exception of the extreme
aft tail cone where it became too narrow to fit the rivet gun into.
However instead of using a back rivet plate, we back riveted against
a bucking bar. Moving the bucking bar around from rivet to rivet was
much easier than rolling the tail cone around on a table.
The wife helped me out with running the bucking bar while I shot them
from the inside with my Avery 3x Rivet Gun that fits my hand
perfectly and has given me years of trouble-free service. :p
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thu Dec 31 11:42:30 2009
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Back rivet tailcone
It has been a long time since I did my tailcone, but with some help I
was able to back rivet the radius of the side skins. I bucked the
top. I just stared at one end (can't remember front or back) and
riveted the radius starting from the bottom and working my way around
to the side. When the radius was done, I went to the next bulkhead
before doing the side skins. It can be done, but I don't recall it
being any easier in the radius that it would have been bucking, and I
still needed help to hold the tailcone while I riveted.
Eric Kallio
N518RV wiring and panel installation
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279457#279457
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Most complete tool kit |
Yes, very nicely said.
Another tool with a lot of variables is a hand squeezer. Yes, you should have
a power squeezer. But you will also need a hand squeezer too. Having had the
chance to use 3 or 4 different models before buying, I had a definite preference.
Others had a different preference. But experience really guided our preferences.
If you can find any way to try different types out, it will pay off.
But what you don't know won't really hurt you either.
Bill
---- John Cumins wrote:
> John
>
>
>
> Nicely said.
>
>
>
> John G. Cumins
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp in deburr mode then dimpling then Primer Yes I won the primer
> war!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
>
> Chris, like the subject of Primer, tools bring out the personal side of the
> RV-10 list. Several will tell you that one brand is better over another.
> Most like the Beach Boys song "Be true to your school" have not played the
> field much. The key is the feel, balance and weight in Your Hands. Speed is
> indeed a factor in improving quality of production. You can always regulate
> down a faster product for slower cutting or deity forbid "Drill an errant
> rivet". The inverse is not possible. Trueness of the "chucked bit" is
> another. Some chucks tend to wear out more quickly than others. Many
> builders love the keyless chuck. Noise of the pneumatics and consistent
> speed under load are two metrics to measure your options against. Pilots
> tend to go deaf from flying without noise cancelling headsets. Builders do
> it from their pneumatic tools. Be sure and get protection that you enjoy
> wearing.
>
>
>
> I have two Sioux palm reversibles and love them. I found the Dotco with
> ergonomic grip to be even more comfortable. I cannot stand the miniature
> (hard to find) special size key necessary to change items in the Sioux
> chuck. I would love to have a keyless chuck in just one of mine but there
> are tradeoffs when trying to back out a stuck bit that is turning in the
> chuck. The reason I have two small drives (five in total) is the
> convenience of have PRE set up a 0.030 bit, another with the 0.040, another
> with a micro cage for countersinking and another for scotchbrite disks on an
> arbor. Many of the micro cages will have a bushing rather than a bearing
> and begin migrating at the end of the build as your QC level becomes more
> demanding. And yes, I use both reamers and Cogswell Deburr tools.
>
>
>
> Some of us follow the path of Tiger Woods in life, I have a fetish for
> tools. A quality tool in the hand of a craftsman, properly applied can be a
> thing of beauty. For shops to die for, visit the archive of Bob Newman's -
> TCW workshop. Pictures can be far more eloquent.
>
>
>
> No one has yet mentioned a 90 or 45 degree drill for those tight spots using
> 1/4" x 28 threaded bits. I even have a "East Indian" manufactured pancake
> drill for hard to reach areas with only 1" of headroom. 60% of my stuff has
> come from Ebay. About 10% gets re-sold so Caveat Emptor.
>
>
>
> Many are building quality products with the most basic of builder tools. A
> majority of builders learn about the tool options later in the build rather
> than in the beginning. Few of them have been willing to sell anything after
> completion of their kit. Others are fortunate enough to have access to the
> DRDT2 dimpler or share it around with friends. That will be the hardest
> tool to sneak past my wife in her random tours of the hangar. Visit Tim
> Olson's site on how to engage your partner in the build and its rewards.
>
>
>
> Enjoy the journey and consider engaging one or several EAA Tech Advisors
> (near you) to share with you the roads less traveled or infrequently repaved
> by builder mistakes. Visit http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html .
> Feel at ease contacting builders Offline - Anytime.
>
>
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> Aurora, OR
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
>
> While I've got the experts on the line...
>
>
>
> I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
> building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
> don't quite know what I need.
>
>
>
> In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
> references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a
> drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist,
> and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
>
>
>
> If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
> be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways when
> they get older?
>
>
>
> Chris
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never
> really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
> is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is and
> upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different than
> the kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many
> don't, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My examples
> would focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
>
>
> To:
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
> >
> > I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> > the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without it.
> >
> > Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >>
> >> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
> >> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
> >> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
> >> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
> >>
>
> >> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Score:
> >>>
> >>> Ischam 3
> >>> Avery. 1
> >>> Custom 2
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
> >>>
> >>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
> >>> wheels, and a drdt2.
> >>>
> >>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>
> >>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> > ==========
>
>
> > Support Your Lists This Month --
>
> > Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> > HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp; ==========
> > RV10-List Email browse
> > Photoshare, and much ==========
> > bsp; via the ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>
> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> nk">www.howtocrimp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> www.aeroelectric.com
> www.buildersbooks.com
> www.homebuilthelp.com
> www.howtocrimp.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet tailcone |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
In addition to all of the above, you can back rivet the J-channel stiffeners to
the top skin before clecoing the skin to the bulkheads. Just leave out the rivets
where the stiffeners cross a bulkhead. Saves a lot of riveting inside the
tailcone. I back riveted all but about a dozen rivets in the narrowest part of
the cone by myself, using a couple of pillows to position the cone against the
rivet plate.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279515#279515
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
I would disagree on the drill. I got the standard drill in Isham's kit.
After completing the empenage I developed trigger finger syndrome,
partly because that drill has a stiff trigger that is very difficult to
get anything but max rpm. The Chicago Pneumatic I mentioned or a Sioux
have far better triggers that take less effort and easy control from 5
rpm to max rpm.
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Louis
>
> The drill and pneumatic sqeezer are part of the ISM kit you want to get both
> from them and I love the feel of the drill fits my hand perfectly.
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
you'll find that any tool will work, you probably saw a post today from
someone using a battery powered drill, he might be getting 600rpm max
far short of 2000rpm. With that said my Sioux is 2100rpm and it has
worked fine.
The more I build the more I realize the RV-10 could probably be built
with hand tools, in other words, yes you'll be fine with a 2K rpm drill.
I also have a 2X riveter, many will say you need a 3X, never saw a need
for anything more than my 2x did. Look at the Avery or planetools list
and use that as a basis for the ebay search.
Pascal
From: Chris Colohan
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
don't quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in
a drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to
exist, and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around
2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely
to be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways
when they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I
never really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I
think if one is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying
everything as is and upgrading those things that one really needs (or
wants) no different than the kit itself, some items really "need" to be
replaced/upgraded and many don't, others are fine as it is even though
some have upgraded. My examples would focus around the landing gear;
axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
To:
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good,
so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being
without it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago
Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is
it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the
two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ===========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free
www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp;
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much ==========
> bsp; via the ==========
>
>
>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Most complete tool kit |
Chris: Jeff makes a very good point.............there is alot of work like
drilling out prepunched holes=2C deburring holes etc. that don't require t
he power or rpm of an air drill. I used a light 9v black and decker drill
and now using a similar DeWitt drill...........having a second battery mean
s you can be charging one while using the other.....and keep on working.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
Date: Thu=2C 31 Dec 2009 15:16:38 -0500
From: nicholscatoauto(at)aol.com
Chris=2C
I used a makita cordless drill so far in the build process(currently workin
g on fuselage). I purchased a CP reversible drill and I didn't like having
to wear ear plugs all the time (kind of loud) or lugging the air hose aroun
d with me. As far as the rest of the tools I wouldn't do without my tungste
n bucking bar. I just wish I would have bought it at the beginning.
Jeff Nichols
#40648
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
Sent: Thu=2C Dec 31=2C 2009 11:55 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka=2C on the cheap) to start b
uilding an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills=2C and realize I do
n't quite know what I need.
In particular=2C when I read articles on building=2C I've seen multiple ref
erences (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a dri
ll for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist=2C an
d the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay=2C am I likely t
o be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways whe
n they get older?
Chris
On Thu=2C Dec 31=2C 2009 at 8:02 AM=2C Pascal wro
te:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux=2C but in the end I never r
eally felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
is frugal=2C like me=2C it certainly is worth just trying everything as is
and upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different th
an the kit itself=2C some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and m
any don't=2C others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My ex
amples would focus around the landing gear=3B axle=2C extension=2C wheel=2C
etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday=2C December 31=2C 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
rr.com>
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good=2C so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without it
.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO=2C your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
>> is compact=2C light=2C and has a very nice touch teasing trigger=2C for
>> $125=2C or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice=2C but is i
t
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch=2C extra clecos=2C extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels=2C and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30=2C 2009=2C at 5:56 PM=2C Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ===========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp=3B ======
====
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare=2C and much ==========
> bsp=3B via the ==========
>
>
>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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ank>www.howtocrimp.com
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rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Most complete tool kit |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
If I get to choose a hand squeezer, I'm going with the Cleveland "Main Squeeze".
It's the cat's meow.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com [mailto:mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
Yes, very nicely said.
Another tool with a lot of variables is a hand squeezer. Yes, you should have
a power squeezer. But you will also need a hand squeezer too. Having had the
chance to use 3 or 4 different models before buying, I had a definite preference.
Others had a different preference. But experience really guided our preferences.
If you can find any way to try different types out, it will pay off.
But what you don't know won't really hurt you either.
Bill
---- John Cumins wrote:
> John
>
>
>
> Nicely said.
>
>
>
> John G. Cumins
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp in deburr mode then dimpling then Primer Yes I won the primer
> war!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
>
> Chris, like the subject of Primer, tools bring out the personal side of the
> RV-10 list. Several will tell you that one brand is better over another.
> Most like the Beach Boys song "Be true to your school" have not played the
> field much. The key is the feel, balance and weight in Your Hands. Speed is
> indeed a factor in improving quality of production. You can always regulate
> down a faster product for slower cutting or deity forbid "Drill an errant
> rivet". The inverse is not possible. Trueness of the "chucked bit" is
> another. Some chucks tend to wear out more quickly than others. Many
> builders love the keyless chuck. Noise of the pneumatics and consistent
> speed under load are two metrics to measure your options against. Pilots
> tend to go deaf from flying without noise cancelling headsets. Builders do
> it from their pneumatic tools. Be sure and get protection that you enjoy
> wearing.
>
>
>
> I have two Sioux palm reversibles and love them. I found the Dotco with
> ergonomic grip to be even more comfortable. I cannot stand the miniature
> (hard to find) special size key necessary to change items in the Sioux
> chuck. I would love to have a keyless chuck in just one of mine but there
> are tradeoffs when trying to back out a stuck bit that is turning in the
> chuck. The reason I have two small drives (five in total) is the
> convenience of have PRE set up a 0.030 bit, another with the 0.040, another
> with a micro cage for countersinking and another for scotchbrite disks on an
> arbor. Many of the micro cages will have a bushing rather than a bearing
> and begin migrating at the end of the build as your QC level becomes more
> demanding. And yes, I use both reamers and Cogswell Deburr tools.
>
>
>
> Some of us follow the path of Tiger Woods in life, I have a fetish for
> tools. A quality tool in the hand of a craftsman, properly applied can be a
> thing of beauty. For shops to die for, visit the archive of Bob Newman's -
> TCW workshop. Pictures can be far more eloquent.
>
>
>
> No one has yet mentioned a 90 or 45 degree drill for those tight spots using
> 1/4" x 28 threaded bits. I even have a "East Indian" manufactured pancake
> drill for hard to reach areas with only 1" of headroom. 60% of my stuff has
> come from Ebay. About 10% gets re-sold so Caveat Emptor.
>
>
>
> Many are building quality products with the most basic of builder tools. A
> majority of builders learn about the tool options later in the build rather
> than in the beginning. Few of them have been willing to sell anything after
> completion of their kit. Others are fortunate enough to have access to the
> DRDT2 dimpler or share it around with friends. That will be the hardest
> tool to sneak past my wife in her random tours of the hangar. Visit Tim
> Olson's site on how to engage your partner in the build and its rewards.
>
>
>
> Enjoy the journey and consider engaging one or several EAA Tech Advisors
> (near you) to share with you the roads less traveled or infrequently repaved
> by builder mistakes. Visit http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html .
> Feel at ease contacting builders Offline - Anytime.
>
>
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> Aurora, OR
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
>
> While I've got the experts on the line...
>
>
>
> I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
> building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
> don't quite know what I need.
>
>
>
> In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
> references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a
> drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist,
> and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
>
>
>
> If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
> be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways when
> they get older?
>
>
>
> Chris
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never
> really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
> is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is and
> upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different than
> the kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many
> don't, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My examples
> would focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
>
>
> To:
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
> >
> > I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> > the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without it.
> >
> > Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >>
> >> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
> >> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
> >> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
> >> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
> >>
>
> >> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Score:
> >>>
> >>> Ischam 3
> >>> Avery. 1
> >>> Custom 2
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
> >>>
> >>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
> >>> wheels, and a drdt2.
> >>>
> >>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>
> >>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> > ==========
>
>
> > Support Your Lists This Month --
>
> > Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> > HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp; ==========
> > RV10-List Email browse
> > Photoshare, and much ==========
> > bsp; via the ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>
> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> nk">www.howtocrimp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> www.aeroelectric.com
> www.buildersbooks.com
> www.homebuilthelp.com
> www.howtocrimp.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
I second that. An experience mechanic that has helped me from time to
time thought the Sioux was far superior to any drill he has used in his
30 years. He was amazed at the smoothness, "balance" and easy control of
the drill. Funny thing is he mentioned that he had the trigger syndrome
with some of the drills they have at his job, and none of the drills
they use are cheap/inexpensive. (aka no Harbor freight tools).
I believe Boeing uses DOTCO, or they did at one point, I say that
because when the store was still open to the public they had a few
"surplus", DOTCO, sioux, both great tools, Harbor Freight NOT! somewhere
in between there are some great smooth less expensive tools and there
are some lousy expensive tools. Stick with a name brand and look at VAF
for builders feedback on tools.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> I would disagree on the drill. I got the standard drill in Isham's
kit.
> After completing the empenage I developed trigger finger syndrome,
> partly because that drill has a stiff trigger that is very difficult
to
> get anything but max rpm. The Chicago Pneumatic I mentioned or a Sioux
> have far better triggers that take less effort and easy control from 5
> rpm to max rpm.
>
> John Cumins wrote:
>>
>> Louis
>>
>> The drill and pneumatic sqeezer are part of the ISM kit you want to
get both
>> from them and I love the feel of the drill fits my hand perfectly.
>> John G. Cumins
>> President
>>
>> JC'S Interactive Systems
>> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
>> Fairfield Ca 94533
>> 707-425-7100
>> 707-425-7576 Fax
>>
>> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
OK, I spent an hour last night on Foreflight and bought the annual package.
I love the route briefing and particularly the translated METARS. I can
read the script but always have to think too hard about the Zulu times. I
wonder if they will switch to the new PROG charts with the enhanced
graphics. I really like them a lot better than the standard stuff.
It is a better package than AOPA because it is specifically designed for the
iPhone. It's cool being able to download charts, airport directory, and
approachs/stars/sids etc and have them in your hand in the airplane. Not as
nice to use as a full size chart but cool for reference or in a pinch.
Thanks for the tip! Please post any other good iPhone aviation aps that you
come across.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
I'll reply longer in another post maybe, but for now to answer one question,
I think on their site it says all charts total is 5gb. I downloaded most of
the is except Alaska and Hawaii. Mainly because we often decide on our
vacation destinations the night before, so I have to be prepared for
anything. 32gb will do you real well.
Tim
On Dec 30, 2009, at 6:34 PM, "Bill Schlatterer"
wrote:
> --> >
>
> Tim thanks, good answer. So looks like you can actually download the
> charts, stars, etc and pull them up even offline and that is part of
> the basic 69/annual pricing. Are you downloading all charts or just
> the general area of your trip. Can you tell how much data storage is
> used in the iP for this app plus charts etc. Haven't found out how to
> do that yet but have the 32g version so I think it shouldn't be a
> problem.
>
> If Foreflight actually wrote the stuff that AOPA uses, they do good
> work.
> The one ap that is missing is the nice listing that Dan Checkoways
> does on his Weithermiester site where it just shows a one line Metars
> for every site within XX miles of your route. It's color coded so it
> is very easy to use/
>
> Pretty unbelievable how far we have come in the last year with the iP.
>
> Do you have any other favorite aps for the iP for flight matters?
>
> Thanks Bill S
> 7a finishing
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 8:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
>
> Bill,
>
> I'm writing this from back home from the trip down to Florida. Used
> Foreflight Mobile (3.0 version) for just tons of the trip. The reason
> I could easily read the STAR, and yesterday had my approach plate up
> while in flight is that 3.0 will allow you to download all the
> approaches state-by-state, and also IFR enroute charts, and VFR
> sectionals, state by state. The charts and sectionals also work with
> the iphone GPS (and a bluetooth GPS if you hack it). So, I didn't
> need data service to use all those chart functions. The AOPA app you
> mention is good, but Foreflight already also includes all of that too
> (they made the AOPA app), so if you have Foreflight, you don't need
> the separate AOPA app.
>
> I did find that there were plenty of times I didn't have data
> coverage, but found many that I did along this trip too. It was very
> sporadic.
> It seems that when I was near 3G coverage areas, it happened more
> often.
> When I flew to KSLC earlier this year, it was funny but I had almost
> continuous coverage at 10,000' I think, from Wyoming to Utah. So it
> really depends on where you are. In Florida I would often get emails
> popping in during the flight...and just randomly along the trip. When
> I had service near Nashville, I used it to text back and forth with
> another RV-10 owner to have them call ahead to make sure I could get a
> car at KMYJ. I also a couple times tried to pull up fuel prices on
> Airnav just for kicks...and sometimes had luck. Come to think of it,
> South Dakota seemed to have reasonable coverage when I was over there
> too.
>
> I did shut the phone off into airplane mode when flying IMC in the
> clouds though...the phone is a very electrically noisy device and
> although I haven't seen any effects on the plane instruments, I didn't
> want to find them out at that time. I get tons of speaker interference
> on telephones and PC monitor speakers with the iphone.
>
> Voyager also actually came in pretty handy on this trip again.
> Between the BNA area and near MSP when I was going home, I tried to do
> a lot of that VFR for a while, navigating low around a snowstorm
> area....just changing our course as needed to try to make the best
> forward progress.
> This meant we had no defined fuel spot...just wanted to navigate
> around the weather.
> I was able to slide the map ahead and find a good fuel stop for
> something just over $3.60/gal, instead of paying the $4-5 that so many
> places try to impose, and ended up at Mexico MO (home of Zenith
> aircraft) getting a good fuel price. Probably saved me like $40-60
> just for that one fuel stop. I tried to do as much as I could on this
> trip with the iPhone though, which really for me proved it was a
> fantastic device to have with you on a trip.
> I had a moving-map GPS in the car, found my hotels by the iphone,
> found my stores and restaurants that way, and even my inlaws house and
> the nearby theatre for a movie.
> Without that device I'd have had to do a lot more planning or spend a
> lot more time getting around.
>
> For those thinking about the Foreflight for iphone, you may want to
> check their website quick. I think most of the special upgrade pricing
> and special intro pricing expires at the end of the year. Might save
> a few bucks. I don't know if I'll have a good write-up put together
> in time.
>
> For kicks, I've attached 3 screenshots from the trip. The first was
> the crappy weather I had to deal with a couple days ago while we came
> home...flying from Florida to Wisconsin.
> The turbulence got me..I landed at Nashville because having built the
> plane, I KNOW that the only thing holding the front of the horizontal
> stab on is those 2 L shaped angle brackets...
> and we were getting hammered bad enough that I decided I better just
> wait it out. The last shot is a not-zoomed-in-too-far photo of that
> arrival in Florida. You can zoom them up just like everything else
> and see them well.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>> -->
>>
>> Tim, just wondering how that works? I just flew several legs into
>> Fort Worth and out and never could get the iPhone to pick up
>> consistently. Text messages went OK (not instantly) up to about 2000
>> but higher than that was intermittent. My old crack berry was better
>> than
> that. Internet access for
>> pulling up anything was not useable. My iP is on AT&T. Does
>> Foreflight
>> cache the plates or do you have to load them up before getting in the
>> air?
>>
>> I have been using the new AOPA Mobile ap and it is also very good!
>> It's also free with your AOPA subscription.
>>
>> Bill S
>> 7a almost flying
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 5:15 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
>>
>>
>> You get WAY more than that....confirmation AND the full briefing. I
>> had an awesome couple of days with 3.0 so far....this should be a
>> great trip write-up. Flying the STAR into KLEE as I type this...with
>> the star on the iPhone!
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 23, 2009, at 5:30 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> If you file your flight plan with Foreflight 3.0, do you get any
>>> feedback that the flight plan went thru??
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278735#278735
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
So the higher rpms on the drill are not needed? The higher RPMs
should give a smoother hole. I would think using a lower rpm will
lead to stress cracks in the less smooth hole.
Anyhow...So if one can use an electric drill, than hey, is there a
electric riveter? Then using rattle cans for primer, ya don't even
need a compressor.....
On Dec 31, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Pascal wrote:
> you'll find that any tool will work, you probably saw a post today
> from someone using a battery powered drill, he might be getting
> 600rpm max far short of 2000rpm. With that said my Sioux is 2100rpm
> and it has worked fine.
> The more I build the more I realize the RV-10 could probably be
> built with hand tools, in other words, yes you'll be fine with a 2K
> rpm drill.
> I also have a 2X riveter, many will say you need a 3X, never saw a
> need for anything more than my 2x did. Look at the Avery or
> planetools list and use that as a basis for the ebay search.
> Pascal
> From: Chris Colohan
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> While I've got the experts on the line...
>
> I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to
> start building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and
> realize I don't quite know what I need.
>
> In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
> references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need
> >5000rpm in a drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill
> doesn't seem to exist, and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits
> tend to be around 2000rpm.
>
> If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I
> likely to be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in
> funny ways when they get older?
>
> Chris
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal
> wrote:
> I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I
> never really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I
> think if one is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying
> everything as is and upgrading those things that one really needs
> (or wants) no different than the kit itself, some items really
> "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many don't, others are fine as it
> is even though some have upgraded. My examples would focus around
> the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> >
> >
> > I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very
> good, so
> > the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being
> without it.
> >
> > Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago
> Pneumatic
> >> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
> >> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but
> is it
> >> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the
> two.
> >>
> >> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
> >
> >>>
> >>> Score:
> >>>
> >>> Ischam 3
> >>> Avery. 1
> >>> Custom 2
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
> >>>
> >>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
> >>> wheels, and a drdt2.
> >>>
> >>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>
> >>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >
> >>>>
> >>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > ==========
>
> > Support Your Lists This Month --
> > Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> > HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp; ==========
> > RV10-List Email browse
> > Photoshare, and much ==========
> > bsp; via the ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>
> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> nk">www.howtocrimp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.howtocrimp.com">www.howtocrimp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref=
> "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet tailcone |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Rivet the stiffeners to the top skin by back riveting before
installing on the bulkheads, then just slide into place. It would be
difficult to do any other way. It would be tough to backrivet the
radius between bottom and side skins.
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 1:32 PM, Russell Shavitz wrote:
> Can someone tell me the exact order to back rivet tailcone and if the radius
> in the side and top skins can be back riveted
>
> Russell Shavitz
> Arlington Heights IL
> 847-417-6622
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
While anything is possible, the pneumatic tools are about power and
speed. Yesterday I had a friend to help, and we match drilled &
deburred a complete wing bottom skin in a couple hours with two air
drills and electric screwdriver running the debur bit. Would have
helped to have a pneumatic cleco tool, but I'm too cheap to buy one.
Dimpled all the ribs today in about an hour with pneumatic squeezer.
I paid less for my Husky compressor than my pneumatic squeezer.
Between drilling and riveting, it gets a lot of use. Not to mention
powering the die grinder, etc. The Husky 30 gal or Lowes equivalent
oil lubed belt driven compressors are under $400 and MUCH quieter than
any of the oiless variety.
As for rpm versus smooth holes, with a drill that may be true, with a
chucking reamer makes no difference. In both cases you still are going
to debur, which is what prevents the stress cracks. If drilling, once
started, I go to max rpm..2800 on my drill. For reamer I go easy, rpm
are not needed.
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 7:18 PM, Luis wrote:
> So the higher rpms on the drill are not needed? The higher RPMs should give
> a smoother hole. I would think using a lower rpm will lead to stress cracks
> in the less smooth hole.
>
> Anyhow...So if one can use an electric drill, than hey, is there a electric
> riveter? Then using rattle cans for primer, ya don't even need a
> compressor.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Don't forget this one.
http://www.ezburr.com/products/ezburr_customs.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Bill's comment reminded me... sometimes slower is better. If you break the speed
habit, you will discover that hand files will ultimately do the job, and never
make a mistake.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine on floor &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279552#279552
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
High speed is good for aluminum. Low speed for metal and even slower
for stainless.
----- Original Message -----
From: Luis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
So the higher rpms on the drill are not needed? The higher RPMs
should give a smoother hole. I would think using a lower rpm will lead
to stress cracks in the less smooth hole.
Anyhow...So if one can use an electric drill, than hey, is there a
electric riveter? Then using rattle cans for primer, ya don't even need
a compressor.....
On Dec 31, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Pascal wrote:
you'll find that any tool will work, you probably saw a post today
from someone using a battery powered drill, he might be getting 600rpm
max far short of 2000rpm. With that said my Sioux is 2100rpm and it has
worked fine.
The more I build the more I realize the RV-10 could probably be
built with hand tools, in other words, yes you'll be fine with a 2K rpm
drill.
I also have a 2X riveter, many will say you need a 3X, never saw a
need for anything more than my 2x did. Look at the Avery or planetools
list and use that as a basis for the ebay search.
Pascal
From: Chris Colohan
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to
start building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and
realize I don't quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in
a drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to
exist, and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around
2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I
likely to be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in
funny ways when they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal
wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I
never really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I
think if one is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying
everything as is and upgrading those things that one really needs (or
wants) no different than the kit itself, some items really "need" to be
replaced/upgraded and many don't, others are fine as it is even though
some have upgraded. My examples would focus around the landing gear;
axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
To:
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very
good, so
> the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being
without it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago
Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger,
for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but
is it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the
two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery. 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra
scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the
-10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ===========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free
www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp;
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much ==========
> bsp; via the ==========
>
>
>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
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href="http://www.howtocrimp.com">www.howtocrimp.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
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href="http://www.howtocrimp.com">www.howtocrimp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Automotive Spark Plugs |
I check resistance every annual. It is best indicator of whether a plug
is still good. Also a lot cheaper than those big Champion blaster/tester
rigs.
I'd use electronic with auto plugs on a non-turbo aircraft engine...for
50% of plugs, and mags with aircraft plugs for the other half. Throw the
auto plugs away every annual, unless evidence pointed towards their
being good for more life.
John Cox wrote:
>
> For those who frequent OSH seminars, Champion is often conducting Educational
Seminars that can be both informative and entertaining. Then you can take what
they say with a grain of salt. The Aviation plug is designed and constructed
for an entirely more reliable purpose than automotive. If there were only as
many aviation plugs in use as Asian manufactured automotive we might see the
competitive forces of price make that subject a Non Issue. There is a big increase
in consumable cost. As a youth, when I was drag racing, I had three sets
of entirely different plugs for atmospheric changes on the track. We called
that a Pit Stop.
>
> Mikes post was about cost/benefit.
>
> TBO: The original Rotax TBOs were down around 1,000 hours now they are improving
to match Lyco/Continental. Turbo powered engines create additional needs
on the plug design and the TBO reflects the Trade Off of additional power output
yet I have never seen a plug properly rotated, cleaned, gapped and not dropped
that went 2,000 TBO... maybe 1000 hours.
>
> Rick, when you get back from the airport can you tell us which plug to buy? The
Champion Go/No Go gage included a measure of when the anode of the plug has
sacrificed enough metal to no longer have enough mass to continue reliably in
service (between Annuals - I mean Conditionals). Plugs should be matched for
reliability and performance for the environment they operate and the source of
power they are provided. Last week there was discussion of blast tubes to the
Mag without discussion on when pressurized mags provide additional value -
that is another subject. The tubes discussed were for cooling the Mag case and
reducing the failure rate of the condenser inside.
>
> Till you have seen an auto plug blow out, an anode burn off, an improper heat
range plug or the damage from a decaying magneto, or the failure of an electronic
ignition system you just have not experienced all the fun that is out there
for us all.
>
> The decision of cost/benefit is not in VANS hands, it is in the many choices
we make as the Manufacturer and the QC that we put on our product before the name
goes on. I have respect for both the workmanship of Rick's and Don's aircraft.
To me it's not about the $40,000. A close friend once said "When the engine
stops in flight, a fire breaks out or you fly without gas.... The aircraft
is instantly the property of the insurance company and your estate." Bob Hoover
said " It is the job of every good pilot to fly the aircraft to the landing
site, walk away with all the passengers that were onboard and assess your
estate value over a stiff drink". Sully was this year's hero for following to
a T that exact mantra. I have lost a few friends over the years who tried to
do the impossible or cut a corner or two while traveling life's highway. Let's
have another year of no lost RV-10s or their pilots.
>
> Here is a question for New Years Eve - "How many of you check the resistance
of your plugs at each annual?"
>
> John Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
This is an area where a lot of rookies make a big mistake.....- RPM is im
portant.... but even more important is the right pressure.- With stainles
s - sure, lower RPM, but keep a lot of pressure on it or your drill bit is
history.... similiar-for steel.... make sure the bit is biting.
It's usually more pressure than you think there should be.... trust me.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Seano wrote:
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 8:37 PM
High speed is good for aluminum.- Low speed for metal and even slower for
stainless.
----- Original Message -----
From: Luis
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
So the higher rpms on the drill are not needed? -The higher RPMs should g
ive a smoother hole. -I would think using a lower rpm will lead to stress
cracks in the less smooth hole.
Anyhow...So if one can use an electric drill, than hey, is there a electric
riveter? -Then using rattle cans for primer, ya don't even need a compre
ssor.....
On Dec 31, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Pascal wrote:
you'll find that any tool will work, you probably saw a post today from som
eone using a battery powered drill, he might be getting 600rpm max far shor
t of 2000rpm. With that said my Sioux is 2100rpm and it has worked fine.
The more I build the more I realize the RV-10 could probably be built with
hand tools, in other words, yes you'll be fine with a 2K rpm drill.
I also have a 2X riveter, many will say you need a 3X, never saw a need for
anything more than my 2x did. Look at the Avery or planetools list and use
that as a basis for the ebay search.
Pascal
From: Chris Colohan
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
While I've got the experts on the line...
I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start bui
lding an RV-10. -I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I don'
t quite know what I need.
In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple referen
ces (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a drill f
or working with aluminum. -But such a drill doesn't seem to exist, and th
e drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
be happy? -Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways whe
n they get older?
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never rea
lly felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one is
frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is and up
grading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different than the
kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many don'
t, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded.-My examples w
ould focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
rr.com>
>
> I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> the Chicago sounds great.- Keyless chuck?- Can't imagine being withou
t it.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
>> is compact, light, and- has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
>> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
>> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
>>
>> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
>>>
>>> Score:
>>>
>>> Ischam 3
>>> Avery.- 1
>>> Custom 2
>>>
>>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
>>>
>>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
>>> wheels, and a drdt2.
>>>
>>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>
>>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ===========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
> HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp;------------
----- ==========
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much ==========
> bsp;-- via the ==========
>
>
>
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/cget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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tribution
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com/Navigator?RV10-List
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ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
Heads UP. This is a reservation made with the EAA discount . Check my next
email.
-----Original Message-----
From: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservations
[mailto:onlinereservations(at)enterprise.com]
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:22 AM
Subject: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Dear d mcnel,
Thank you for choosing Enterprise. We look forward to seeing you on
Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am. If you didn't print your
confirmation when you reserved your car, please print this Email or record
your confirmation number. You may need it when you pick up your rental.
Your rental information is summarized below.
P.S. Remember us when you're renting in town. Enterprise is always nearby
at more than 6,500 neighborhood locations.
-----------------------
RESERVATION INFORMATION
-----------------------
Confirmation Number: R0PD9P
Name: mcnel, d
Pick Up Date: Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am
Drop Off Date: Monday, January 18, 2010 at 10:00 am
Car Provided by: Enterprise Rent-A-Car
Tel.: (435) 865-1435
Car Located at: Sphere One Av
Office Hours for the week of: January 11, 2010
Monday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Tuesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Wednesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Thursday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Friday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Saturday 9:00 am Noon
Sunday CLOSED
Car and Rate Information for EAA - MEMBER BENEFIT NAT'L ACCT:
Intermediate
Pontiac G5, Nissan Sentra, Toyota Corolla or similar
93.00 USD (2 Days @ 46.50)
1.34 USD (VEHICLE LICENSE FEE)
94.34 USD (Subtotal)
9.43 USD (AIRPORT ACCESS FEE)
8.93 USD (SALES TAX)
Total charges 112.70 USD
NOTE: Pricing does not include coverage.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE PICK-UP POLICY
-------------------------
PICK-UP OR DELIVERY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR GENERAL AVIATION AIRPORT. -
AFTER BOOKING A RESERVATION PLEASE CALL THE LOCAL RENTAL OFFICE TO ARRANGE
FOR SHUTTLE SERVICE. - GEOGRAPHIC RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE MILEAGE POLICY
-------------------------
MILEAGE IS UNLIMITED WHEN VEHICLE REMAINS IN THE RENTING STATE. IF TRAVELING
OUTSIDE OF THE STATE, MILEAGE IS CHARGED AT 150 FREE MILES PER DAY AND .20
FOR EACH ADDITIONAL MILE, FOR THE ENTIRE RENTAL.
---------------------
ENTERPRISE AGE POLICY
---------------------
ALL DRIVERS MUST BE 21 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER. RENTERS 21 THROUGH 24 YEARS OF
AGE MAY ONLY RENT ECONOMY THROUGH FULLSIZE CARS.
-----------------------------
ENTERPRISE AFTER HOURS POLICY
-----------------------------
PLEASE LOCK CAR DOORS AND THEN PLACE KEYS IN THE KEY DROP BOX. THE RENTER'S
RESPONSIBILITY FOR VEHICLE CONDITION ENDS ONCE AN ENTERPRISE-RENT-A-CAR
EMPLOYEE INSPECTS THE RENTAL VEHICLE THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY.
------------------------------------
TO MODIFY OR CANCEL THIS RESERVATION
------------------------------------
Please click the link below to modify or cancel this reservation.
(Note: Modifying your location, date, or time may result in changes to your
rates, taxes, surcharges or underage fee).
https://www.enterprise.com/car_rental/deeplinkmap.do?bid=001&confirmnum=R0PD
9P&lastname=mcnel&cnty=US&language=EN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
Check this reservation made as unknown individual. Note the $45 decrease in
price for same rental. The FBO is adjacent to the airport terminal.
-----Original Message-----
From: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservations
[mailto:onlinereservations(at)enterprise.com]
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:27 AM
Subject: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Dear David McNeill,
Thank you for choosing Enterprise. We look forward to seeing you on
Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am. If you didn't print your
confirmation when you reserved your car, please print this Email or record
your confirmation number. You may need it when you pick up your rental.
Your rental information is summarized below.
P.S. Remember us when you're renting in town. Enterprise is always nearby
at more than 6,500 neighborhood locations.
-----------------------
RESERVATION INFORMATION
-----------------------
Confirmation Number: R0PFDT
Name: McNeill, David
Pick Up Date: Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am
Drop Off Date: Monday, January 18, 2010 at 10:00 am
Rental Office Address and Phone Number:
CEDAR CITY AP IN TERM
2560 AVIATION WAY
CEDAR CITY, UT 84720-8327
Tel.: (435) 865-1435
Office Hours for the week of: January 11, 2010
Monday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Tuesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Wednesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Thursday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Friday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Saturday 9:00 am Noon
Sunday CLOSED
Car and Rate Information:
Intermediate
Pontiac G5, Nissan Sentra, Toyota Corolla or similar
62.68 USD (2 Days @ 31.34)
1.34 USD (VEHICLE LICENSE FEE)
64.02 USD (Subtotal)
6.40 USD (AIRPORT ACCESS FEE)
6.06 USD (SALES TAX)
Total charges 76.48 USD
NOTE: Pricing does not include coverage.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE PICK-UP POLICY
-------------------------
PICK-UP OR DELIVERY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR GENERAL AVIATION AIRPORT. -
AFTER BOOKING A RESERVATION PLEASE CALL THE LOCAL RENTAL OFFICE TO ARRANGE
FOR SHUTTLE SERVICE. - GEOGRAPHIC RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE MILEAGE POLICY
-------------------------
MILEAGE IS UNLIMITED WHEN VEHICLE REMAINS IN THE RENTING STATE OR BORDERING
STATES INCLUDING CALIFORNIA. IF TRAVELING OUTSIDE OF THOSE STATES, MILEAGE
IS CHARGED AT 200 MILES FREE PER DAY, 1400 MILES PER WEEK, & 2500 MILES PER
MONTH, AND .20 FOR EACH ADDITIONAL MILE, FOR THE ENTIRE RENTAL.
---------------------
ENTERPRISE AGE POLICY
---------------------
ALL DRIVERS MUST BE 21 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER. RENTERS 21 THROUGH 24 YEARS OF
AGE MAY ONLY RENT ECONOMY THROUGH FULLSIZE CARS.
-----------------------------
ENTERPRISE AFTER HOURS POLICY
-----------------------------
PLEASE LOCK CAR DOORS AND THEN PLACE KEYS IN THE KEY DROP BOX. THE RENTER'S
RESPONSIBILITY FOR VEHICLE CONDITION ENDS ONCE AN ENTERPRISE-RENT-A-CAR
EMPLOYEE INSPECTS THE RENTAL VEHICLE THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY.
---------------------------
TO MAKE ANOTHER RESERVATION
---------------------------
If you would like to make another online reservation or need additional
information, please visit us again at:
http://www.enterprise.com
------------------------------------
TO MODIFY OR CANCEL THIS RESERVATION
------------------------------------
Please click the link below to modify or cancel this reservation.
(Note: Modifying your location, date, or time may result in changes to your
rates, taxes, surcharges or underage fee).
https://www.enterprise.com/car_rental/deeplinkmap.do?bid=001&confirmnum=R0PF
DT&lastname=McNeill&cnty=US&language=EN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | car rental discounts |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it 'automatically' download
the maps you need + approach plates etc, or do you have to manually download
the maps, plates etc. And then do you have to 'save' them also?? Happy
New Year to everyone. larry b
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
No, it doesn't automatically download them based on routes.
You can do that kind of thing with Voyager but not
Foreflight. The foreflight download manager works
on a state-by-state basis. So just look at your
route and choose to download all of the states along
the route. For Andrea's on the last trip I downloaded
Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Kentucky, Missouri, Tennessee,
Alabama, Georgia, Florida. It might be handy to
download by route sometimes, but at the same time,
you don't always know where you'll divert to, so
from a practical perspective it's nice to have
that easily identifiable way to pick and choose the
region you want charts for. You get the same type
of selection for IFR Low, VFR Sectional, Approach plates,
and such. Then once you have your selections made,
you should only have to update every month as the
new cycle comes out, and it should be pretty
automatic.
So in Foreflight you probably go forth with more
information than you need. With Voyager I usually
download all airport information for every airport
within 75 miles of my route. But, on my last trip,
my actual route went more than 75 miles out.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it
> 'automatically' download the maps you need + approach plates etc, or
> do you have to manually download the maps, plates etc. And then do
> you have to 'save' them also?? Happy New Year to everyone. larry b
>
> -------- Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
It will not do it automatically. You have to sellect which features
you want caches for which states, but then they are cached until
deleted or replaced.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:17 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it
> 'automatically' download the maps you need + approach plates etc, or
> do you have to manually download the maps, plates etc. And then do
> you have to 'save' them also?? Happy New Year to everyone. larry b
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
If I understand this correctly... it was $76 cheaper renting AT the airport
????
Always ck both, because we found the exact opposite to be true.- In North
Vegas, also Enterprise, we saved by renting form them 3 mile from the airp
ort....and they still came and picked us up.- Who knows... I guess the mo
ral is ck both
Don McDonald
--- On Fri, 1/1/10, DLM wrote:
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 8:41 AM
-Check this reservation made as unknown individual. Note the $45 decrease
in price for same rental. The FBO is adjacent to the airport terminal.
-----Original Message-----
From: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservations [mailto:onlinereservations@enterpr
ise.com]
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:27 AM
Subject: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Dear David McNeill,
Thank you for choosing Enterprise.- We look forward to seeing you on Satu
rday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am.- If you didn't print your confirmatio
n when you reserved your car, please print this Email or record your confir
mation number.- You may need it when you pick up your rental. Your rental
information is summarized below.
P.S. Remember us when you're renting in town.- Enterprise is always nearb
y at more than 6,500 neighborhood locations.
-----------------------
RESERVATION INFORMATION
-----------------------
Confirmation Number: R0PFDT
Name: McNeill, David
Pick Up Date:- Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am
Drop Off Date:- Monday, January 18, 2010 at 10:00 am
Rental Office Address and Phone Number:
CEDAR CITY AP IN TERM
2560 AVIATION WAY
CEDAR CITY, UT 84720-8327
Tel.: (435) 865-1435
Office Hours for the week of: January 11, 2010
Monday------- 8:30 am--- 6:00 pm-----
Tuesday------ 8:30 am--- 6:00 pm-----
Wednesday---- 8:30 am--- 6:00 pm-----
Thursday----- 8:30 am--- 6:00 pm-----
Friday------- 8:30 am--- 6:00 pm-----
Saturday----- 9:00 am--- Noon-----
Sunday------- CLOSED---------
Car and Rate Information:
Intermediate
Pontiac G5, Nissan Sentra, Toyota Corolla or similar
--------------- 62.68 USD--- (2 Days @
31.34)
--------------
---------------- 1.34 USD---- (VEHI
CLE LICENSE FEE)
--------------
---------------- 64.02 USD--- (Subtot
al)
--------------
---------------- 6.40 USD---- (AIRP
ORT ACCESS FEE)
--------------
---------------- 6.06 USD---- (SALE
S TAX)
--------------
- Total charges- 76.48 USD--
-
NOTE: Pricing does not include coverage.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE PICK-UP POLICY
-------------------------
PICK-UP OR DELIVERY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR GENERAL AVIATION AIRPORT.
- AFTER BOOKING A RESERVATION PLEASE CALL THE LOCAL RENTAL OFFICE TO ARRANG
E FOR SHUTTLE SERVICE. - GEOGRAPHIC RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE MILEAGE POLICY
-------------------------
MILEAGE IS UNLIMITED WHEN VEHICLE REMAINS IN THE RENTING STATE OR BORDERING
STATES INCLUDING CALIFORNIA. IF TRAVELING OUTSIDE OF THOSE STATES, MILEAGE
IS CHARGED AT 200 MILES FREE PER DAY, 1400 MILES PER WEEK, & 2500 MILES PE
R MONTH, AND .20 FOR EACH ADDITIONAL MILE, FOR THE ENTIRE RENTAL.
---------------------
ENTERPRISE AGE POLICY
---------------------
ALL DRIVERS MUST BE 21 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER. RENTERS 21 THROUGH 24 YEARS O
F AGE MAY ONLY RENT ECONOMY THROUGH FULLSIZE CARS.
-----------------------------
ENTERPRISE AFTER HOURS POLICY
-----------------------------
PLEASE LOCK CAR DOORS AND THEN PLACE KEYS IN THE KEY DROP BOX.- THE RENTE
R'S RESPONSIBILITY FOR VEHICLE CONDITION ENDS ONCE AN ENTERPRISE-RENT-A-CAR
EMPLOYEE INSPECTS THE RENTAL VEHICLE THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY.-
---------------------------
TO MAKE ANOTHER RESERVATION
---------------------------
If you would like to make another online reservation or need additional inf
ormation, please visit us again at:
http://www.enterprise.com
------------------------------------
TO MODIFY OR CANCEL THIS RESERVATION
------------------------------------
Please click the link below to modify or cancel this reservation.
(Note: Modifying your location, date, or time may result in changes to your
rates, taxes, surcharges or underage fee).
https://www.enterprise.com/car_rental/deeplinkmap.do?bid=001&confirmnum
=R0PFDT&lastname=McNeill&cnty=US&language=EN
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Grommet supplier |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I have been searching through the normal places for the grommet type thing Ed Hayden
used to get the 3 light speed ignition wires through the baffling to get
under the plenum. The picture attached is from Deems website, and shows the part
I am looking for.
Eric Kallio
N518RV wiring and panel installation
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279632#279632
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ignition_wire_pass_through_662.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
The difference was $45; enough for a night in the heated hangar. The irony
is that stating that you are EAA member gets a 50% increase in price.
The key seems to be if the FBO is getting a cut of the rental. At CDC, FBO
and terminal are 100 or so feet apart. I found one in So Cal where the
nearby off airport site was considerably cheaper than anything on the
airport including a pick up at the FBO of an enterprise car. The nearby off
airport sites usually will pick and allow drop at the airport. Always carry
a copy of the confirming email with you.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
If I understand this correctly... it was $76 cheaper renting AT the
airport????
Always ck both, because we found the exact opposite to be true. In North
Vegas, also Enterprise, we saved by renting form them 3 mile from the
airport....and they still came and picked us up. Who knows... I guess the
moral is ck both
Don McDonald
--- On Fri, 1/1/10, DLM wrote:
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 8:41 AM
Check this reservation made as unknown individual. Note the $45 decrease in
price for same rental. The FBO is adjacent to the airport terminal.
-----Original Message-----
From: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservations [
mailto:onlinereservations(at)enterprise.com]
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:27 AM
Subject: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
Dear David McNeill,
Thank you for choosing Enterprise. We look forward to seeing you on
Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am. If you didn't print your
confirmation when you reserved your car, please print this Email or record
your confirmation number. You may need it when you pick up your rental.
Your rental information is summarized below.
P.S. Remember us when you're renting in town. Enterprise is always nearby
at more than 6,500 neighborhood locations.
-----------------------
RESERVATION INFORMATION
-----------------------
Confirmation Number: R0PFDT
Name: McNeill, David
Pick Up Date: Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 am
Drop Off Date: Monday, January 18, 2010 at 10:00 am
Rental Office Address and Phone Number:
CEDAR CITY AP IN TERM
2560 AVIATION WAY
CEDAR CITY, UT 84720-8327
Tel.: (435) 865-1435
Office Hours for the week of: January 11, 2010
Monday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Tuesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Wednesday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Thursday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Friday 8:30 am 6:00 pm
Saturday 9:00 am Noon
Sunday CLOSED
Car and Rate Information:
Intermediate
Pontiac G5, Nissan Sentra, Toyota Corolla or similar
62.68 USD (2 Days @ 31.34)
1.34 USD (VEHICLE LICENSE FEE)
64.02 USD (Subtotal)
6.40 USD (AIRPORT ACCESS FEE)
6.06 USD (SALES TAX)
Total charges 76.48 USD
NOTE: Pricing does not include coverage.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE PICK-UP POLICY
-------------------------
PICK-UP OR DELIVERY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR GENERAL AVIATION AIRPORT. -
AFTER BOOKING A RESERVATION PLEASE CALL THE LOCAL RENTAL OFFICE TO ARRANGE
FOR SHUTTLE SERVICE. - GEOGRAPHIC RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY.
-------------------------
ENTERPRISE MILEAGE POLICY
-------------------------
MILEAGE IS UNLIMITED WHEN VEHICLE REMAINS IN THE RENTING STATE OR BORDERING
STATES INCLUDING CALIFORNIA. IF TRAVELING OUTSIDE OF THOSE STATES, MILEAGE
IS CHARGED AT 200 MILES FREE PER DAY, 1400 MILES PER WEEK, & 2500 MILES PER
MONTH, AND .20 FOR EACH ADDITIONAL MILE, FOR THE ENTIRE RENTAL.
---------------------
ENTERPRISE AGE POLICY
---------------------
ALL DRIVERS MUST BE 21 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER. RENTERS 21 THROUGH 24 YEARS OF
AGE MAY ONLY RENT ECONOMY THROUGH FULLSIZE CARS.
-----------------------------
ENTERPRISE AFTER HOURS POLICY
-----------------------------
PLEASE LOCK CAR DOORS AND THEN PLACE KEYS IN THE KEY DROP BOX. THE RENTER'S
RESPONSIBILITY FOR VEHICLE CONDITION ENDS ONCE AN ENTERPRISE-RENT-A-CAR
EMPLOYEE INSPECTS THE RENTAL VEHICLE THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY.
---------------------------
TO MAKE ANOTHER RESERVATION
---------------------------
If you would like to make another online reservation or need additional
information, please visit us again at:
<http://www.enterprise.com/> http://www.enterprise.com
------------------------------------
TO MODIFY OR CANCEL THIS RESERVATION
------------------------------------
Please click the link below to modify or cancel this reservation.
(Note: Modifying your location, date, or time may result in changes to your
rates, taxes, surcharges or underage fee).
https://www.enterprise.com/car_rental/deeplinkmap.do?bid=001&confirmnum=R0PF
DT&lastname=McNeill&cnty=US&language=EN
_blank rel=nofollow>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank rel=nofollow>www.homebuilthelp.com
nk rel=nofollow>www.howtocrimp.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grommet supplier |
Page 280 of the AA catalog has a lousy picture so I don't know if it's
the same type.
Linn
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I have been searching through the normal places for the grommet type thing Ed
Hayden used to get the 3 light speed ignition wires through the baffling to get
under the plenum. The picture attached is from Deems website, and shows the
part I am looking for.
>
> Eric Kallio
> N518RV wiring and panel installation
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279632#279632
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ignition_wire_pass_through_662.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grommet supplier |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Eric
That's a ignition wire grommet available from Spruce under engine ignition accessories
Rick S.
------Original Message------
From: Eric_Kallio
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 1, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Grommet supplier
I have been searching through the normal places for the grommet type thing Ed Hayden
used to get the 3 light speed ignition wires through the baffling to get
under the plenum. The picture attached is from Deems website, and shows the part
I am looking for.
Eric Kallio
N518RV wiring and panel installation
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279632#279632
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ignition_wire_pass_through_662.jpg
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
Tim, is there any app like FF3 that will allow you to print out the
information to a wireless printer? It would be nice to be able to print a
hard copy of a few of the approach plates occasionally and a piece of an
enroute chart. Is that something that will ever or never happen with the
iPhone?
I love this thing,... And FF3!!
Bill S
7a stilllll finishing - 32 degrees in the hanger tomorrow :-(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
It will not do it automatically. You have to sellect which features you
want caches for which states, but then they are cached until deleted or
replaced.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:17 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it
> 'automatically' download the maps you need + approach plates etc, or
> do you have to manually download the maps, plates etc. And then do
> you have to 'save' them also?? Happy New Year to everyone. larry b
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
That's a tough one. I think maybe there are some hacks out there
to print from an iphone, (maybe), but I don't know for sure.
Your best bet for the approach plates would be to just look them
up online using AOPA or AirNav, or anything else, and then print
them I guess. I use Voyager for that, just because it creates a
PDF pack with all your route and Wx information and approaches and
things like that, and you can print selected parts then to paper.
I've never seen anything that does a good job printing a piece of
an enroute chart though.
My thoughts are, if you need that stuff bigger, the best bet is
to use something like a Tablet PC like I've been using for tracking
myself over enroute charts. Then you get the big screen. Electronic
is such a nice way to go, but I understand why with the iphone's
smaller screen it wouldn't be ideal....it's nice having a tablet
along for those times.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
> Tim, is there any app like FF3 that will allow you to print out the
> information to a wireless printer? It would be nice to be able to print a
> hard copy of a few of the approach plates occasionally and a piece of an
> enroute chart. Is that something that will ever or never happen with the
> iPhone?
>
> I love this thing,... And FF3!!
>
> Bill S
> 7a stilllll finishing - 32 degrees in the hanger tomorrow :-(
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
>
>
> It will not do it automatically. You have to sellect which features you
> want caches for which states, but then they are cached until deleted or
> replaced.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:17 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
>>
>> If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it
>> 'automatically' download the maps you need + approach plates etc, or
>> do you have to manually download the maps, plates etc. And then do
>> you have to 'save' them also?? Happy New Year to everyone. larry b
>>
>> --------
>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Counterbalance Holes |
| From: | efdsteve(at)AOL.COM |
I took a file that has a curve on one side that matches the curvature of
the I.D. of the tube and slid it into the aileron counterbalance tube, th
en just slid the file back and forth until the burrs were off.
Steve Weinstock
40230
-----Original Message-----
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wed, Dec 30, 2009 2:07 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Counterbalance Holes
For all of those who when the slow build route on the wings, how did you
deburr the A-1009 aileron counterbalance holes? For the life of me I can
't figure out a good way to do it. I'm sure it needs to be done as the st
ainless steel will eat away at the rivets pretty quickly. Ideas?
--Shawn
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone |
I think you can print from Air Sharing Pro, or at least think I
remember reading that. If so, then it's doable from the iP. I always
just print from my computer. There is a way to download a chart &
print it, but you have to buy it. I did it once, but a 8.5x11 sheet
didn't seem very useful for a chart, at least to me.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 2, 2010, at 12:35 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> That's a tough one. I think maybe there are some hacks out there
> to print from an iphone, (maybe), but I don't know for sure.
> Your best bet for the approach plates would be to just look them
> up online using AOPA or AirNav, or anything else, and then print
> them I guess. I use Voyager for that, just because it creates a
> PDF pack with all your route and Wx information and approaches and
> things like that, and you can print selected parts then to paper.
> I've never seen anything that does a good job printing a piece of
> an enroute chart though.
>
> My thoughts are, if you need that stuff bigger, the best bet is
> to use something like a Tablet PC like I've been using for tracking
> myself over enroute charts. Then you get the big screen. Electronic
> is such a nice way to go, but I understand why with the iphone's
> smaller screen it wouldn't be ideal....it's nice having a tablet
> along for those times.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>> >
>> Tim, is there any app like FF3 that will allow you to print out the
>> information to a wireless printer? It would be nice to be able to
>> print a
>> hard copy of a few of the approach plates occasionally and a piece
>> of an
>> enroute chart. Is that something that will ever or never happen
>> with the
>> iPhone?
>> I love this thing,... And FF3!!
>> Bill S
>> 7a stilllll finishing - 32 degrees in the hanger tomorrow :-(
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
>> Saint
>> Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:28 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Foreflight Mobile 3.0 for iPhone
>>
>> It will not do it automatically. You have to sellect which
>> features you
>> want caches for which states, but then they are cached until
>> deleted or
>> replaced.
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> 352-427-0285
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:17 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>>>
>>> If you are planning a trip from A-B, and using FF 3, will it
>>> 'automatically' download the maps you need + approach plates etc,
>>> or do you have to manually download the maps, plates etc. And
>>> then do you have to 'save' them also?? Happy New Year to
>>> everyone. larry b
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279619#279619
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
A month ago, I flew over to another airport and I picked up an ex relative, her
daughter, and her neighbor and took them for a short ride. After I got home
I added up the total of the passengers age, including me.... 300.... and I was
the youngest. Anyone top that?
Happy New Year Everyone.... you to Rick and John!
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279723#279723
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lightning strike-Engine Damage |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
Many people JUST inspect the airframe for damage after a strike. Not a
good idea.
Some strikes magnetize the engine components (crankshaft, bearings, etc.)
causing metal in the oil to stick.
Engines can be demagnetized (after disassembly), inspected, and
reassembled. This is covered by insurance and should not be overlooked
after a strike.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Water Heater
Some like it hot. Click now for a reliable new water heater!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=gOspbcepOuiiIQ2q_KZIhQAAJ1A315TiJGQRTntSFamdGWtMAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGIAAAAAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transponder Question |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I am laying out my "Budget" RV-8A panel and have a transponder question.
And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still have privileges
here.
I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS? It
does not appear to be the case.
Thanks,
Robin
Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
therefore would be the only one that you could use with
NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
for other things.
Tim
Robin Marks wrote:
> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder question.
> And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still have privileges
> here.
>
> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>
> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS? It
> does not appear to be the case.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>
> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>
> Concept 1.5.jpg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> for other things.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder
>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still have
>> privileges here.
>>
>> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>>
>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
>> It does not appear to be the case.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>>
>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>>
>> Concept 1.5.jpg
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Precision Gasket |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tv-Umon7X3C6nWQKZVGKbw?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
Can someone tell me what this gasket is for? It came in an envelope with the Precision
airmotive injector body with the other gaskets that I understand.
Also, are there any instructions on how to install this injector body anywhere?
I can't seem to find any.
I am wanting to look up how much torque to apply on the 5/16 studs when i install
the throttle body.
thanks,
Jae
40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279832#279832
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Gasket |
It's been awhile, but IIRC, it's for the oil filter adaptor.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/2/10, jchang10 wrote:
From: jchang10 <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Precision Gasket
Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 7:09 PM
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tv-Umon7X3C6nWQKZVGKbw?authkey=Gv1sR
gCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
Can someone tell me what this gasket is for? It came in an envelope with th
e Precision airmotive injector body with the other gaskets that I understan
d.
Also, are there any instructions on how to install this injector body anywh
ere? I can't seem to find any.
I am wanting to look up how much torque to apply on the 5/16 studs when i i
nstall the throttle body.
thanks,
Jae
40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279832#279832
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warming up in the -10 |
| From: | "bhassel" <bob(at)cozyworld.net> |
On the dark side (in the composite world) we wire our lights (heater) to an AC
thermostat on the inside. I tend to use a higher watt bulb in the winter than
the summer but this helps maintain the temps I'm looking for on Epoxies in my
unheated garage.
Bob Hassel
Santa Fe, NM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279840#279840
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
for something like $1200. So in actuality, it would give
you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
you needed to, although for not much more money you could
go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. I know Mode
S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
that were also supposed to be "going away". So really, what
it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. But, if you
buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
a UAT or go the ES route. What I don't have a clue about
is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
along with outputting TIS-B targets. So with something like
that, it gives some benefit to having either system. The one
thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
"intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
Tim
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
>> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
>> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
>> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
>> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
>> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
>> for other things.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin Marks wrote:
>>> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder
>>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still
>>> have privileges here.
>>>
>>> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
>>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>>>
>>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
>>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
>>> It does not appear to be the case.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>>>
>>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>>>
>>> Concept 1.5.jpg
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
All nice benefits, which also carry the price of anyone and everyone
that wants to track where you go being able to, because your Mode S
code is unique to your aircraft, regardless of VFR/IFR status. But if
you don't mind, you can see the same thing the controllers see on
radar, with a greater time lag, already 6 secs behind when it shows on
the scope. I've flown from St Paul to EAU in a TIS equipped aircraft.
IIRC it stopped supplying traffic about 50 miles east of St Paul, at
outer range of MSP radar. Maybe if I were more used to it I'd want it.
On Sat, Jan 2, 2010 at 9:02 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB, while
>> it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust system. If
>> you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C transponder for now.
>> BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder. They all have to meet a
>> single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As long as you avoid certain
>> airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no transponder. Might get some
>> ATC complaints, however.
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
>>> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
>>> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
>>> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
>>> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
>>> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
>>> for other things.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Robin Marks wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder question.
>>>> And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still have privileges
>>>> here.
>>>>
>>>> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
>>>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>>>>
>>>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
>>>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS? It
>>>> does not appear to be the case.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Robin
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>>>>
>>>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>>>>
>>>> Concept 1.5.jpg
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warming up in the -10 |
Great idea, Tim. As far as temp control at soggy/foggy KWVI goes, we
started using electric blankets for some of our larger composite parts.
Keeps 'em nice and toasty all night long, and not as nerve wracking as the
infra-red heat lamps we used to use.
You know, you could add a $15 thermostat to your chem locker and set it at
the ideal temp. I think McMaster PN 17395K93 would do it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
I had a couple of issues with the wiring of my PS1000 intercom. After wiring the
whole thing myself, and then seeing, at Osh, the great job that they do, I
went ahead and ordered their harness. Now I need to pull most of my wiring out
and install theirs. Without creating noise and/or other issues, is it possible
to create a proper junction between their wires and mine.... specifically
the wires going to both rear passengers (mic and headset).
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
Anyone flown with an SR22 to do a 10 vs. 22 comparison?
I may tomorrow.
Whose got the record for climb rate? With 2 on board last week we saw 2140fpm
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279847#279847
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Most complete tool kit |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
To all the answers I got to my (seemingly simple) question -- wow.
Thank you all for the detailed responses! Now off to buy some tools... ;-)
Chris
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 11:22 AM, John Cox wrote:
> Chris, like the subject of Primer, tools bring out the personal side of
> the RV-10 list. Several will tell you that one brand is better over
> another. Most like the Beach Boys song "Be true to your school" have not
> played the field much. The key is the feel, balance and weight in Your
> Hands. Speed is indeed a factor in improving quality of production. You
> can always regulate down a faster product for slower cutting or deity forbid
> "Drill an errant rivet". The inverse is not possible. Trueness of the
> "chucked bit" is another. Some chucks tend to wear out more quickly than
> others. Many builders love the keyless chuck. Noise of the pneumatics and
> consistent speed under load are two metrics to measure your options
> against. Pilots tend to go deaf from flying without noise cancelling
> headsets. Builders do it from their pneumatic tools. Be sure and get
> protection that you enjoy wearing.
>
>
> I have two Sioux palm reversibles and love them. I found the Dotco with
> ergonomic grip to be even more comfortable. I cannot stand the miniature
> (hard to find) special size key necessary to change items in the Sioux
> chuck. I would love to have a keyless chuck in just one of mine but there
> are tradeoffs when trying to back out a stuck bit that is turning in the
> chuck. The reason I have two small drives (five in total) is the
> convenience of have PRE set up a 0.030 bit, another with the 0.040, another
> with a micro cage for countersinking and another for scotchbrite disks on an
> arbor. Many of the micro cages will have a bushing rather than a bearing
> and begin migrating at the end of the build as your QC level becomes more
> demanding. And yes, I use both reamers and Cogswell Deburr tools.
>
>
> Some of us follow the path of Tiger Woods in life, I have a fetish for
> tools. A quality tool in the hand of a craftsman, properly applied can be a
> thing of beauty. For shops to die for, visit the archive of Bob Newman's -
> TCW workshop. Pictures can be far more eloquent.
>
>
> No one has yet mentioned a 90 or 45 degree drill for those tight spots
> using 1/4" x 28 threaded bits. I even have a "East Indian" manufactured
> pancake drill for hard to reach areas with only 1" of headroom. 60% of my
> stuff has come from Ebay. About 10% gets re-sold so Caveat Emptor.
>
>
> Many are building quality products with the most basic of builder tools. A
> majority of builders learn about the tool options later in the build rather
> than in the beginning. Few of them have been willing to sell anything after
> completion of their kit. Others are fortunate enough to have access to the
> DRDT2 dimpler or share it around with friends. That will be the hardest
> tool to sneak past my wife in her random tours of the hangar. Visit Tim
> Olson's site on how to engage your partner in the build and its rewards.
>
>
> Enjoy the journey and consider engaging one or several EAA Tech Advisors
> (near you) to share with you the roads less traveled or infrequently repaved
> by builder mistakes. Visit http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html .
> Feel at ease contacting builders Offline - Anytime.
>
>
> John Cox
>
> Aurora, OR
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Colohan
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:55 AM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
>
> While I've got the experts on the line...
>
>
> I'm currently trying to acquire used tools (aka, on the cheap) to start
> building an RV-10. I've been looking at ebay for drills, and realize I
> don't quite know what I need.
>
>
> In particular, when I read articles on building, I've seen multiple
> references (including the Sioux web site) which say you need >5000rpm in a
> drill for working with aluminum. But such a drill doesn't seem to exist,
> and the drills that come with RV-10 tool kits tend to be around 2000rpm.
>
>
> If I just buy one of the (many) older Sioux drills on ebay, am I likely to
> be happy? Or do these things tend to wear out or break in funny ways when
> they get older?
>
>
> Chris
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 8:02 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I looked at putting a keyless chuck on my Sioux, but in the end I never
> really felt that it was a big enough deal to actually do it. I think if one
> is frugal, like me, it certainly is worth just trying everything as is and
> upgrading those things that one really needs (or wants) no different than
> the kit itself, some items really "need" to be replaced/upgraded and many
> don't, others are fine as it is even though some have upgraded. My examples
> would focus around the landing gear; axle, extension, wheel, etc.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:20 AM
>
>
> To:
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Most complete tool kit
>
> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> >
> > I have the red one and not sure the teasing capability is very good, so
> > the Chicago sounds great. Keyless chuck? Can't imagine being without
> it.
> >
> > Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> >>
> >> IMHO, your best deal on a drill is from Avery. The Chicago Pneumatic
> >> is compact, light, and has a very nice touch teasing trigger, for
> >> $125, or $155 with reversing. Sure a keyless chuck is nice, but is it
> >> worth an extra $70? Maybe Avery would make a deal combining the two.
> >>
>
> >> Luis Rodriguez wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Score:
> >>>
> >>> Ischam 3
> >>> Avery. 1
> >>> Custom 2
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for the responses so far!!!
> >>>
> >>> I'll definetly add the hole punch, extra clecos, extra scotchbrite
> >>> wheels, and a drdt2.
> >>>
> >>> I'll eBay the air drill and pneumatic sqeezer.
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>
> >>> On Dec 30, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Luis Rodriguez
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >
> >>>>
> >>>> Which tool kit is the most complete/best to order for the -10.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPod
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> > ==========
>
>
> > Support Your Lists This Month --
>
> > Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free www.aeroelectric.com
>
> > HomebuiltHELP Contribution Web bsp; ==========
> > RV10-List Email browse
> > Photoshare, and much ==========
> > bsp; via the ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *_blank">www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> * *
>
> *.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com*
>
> *="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com*
>
> *nk">www.howtocrimp.com*
>
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> *get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.buildersbooks.com*
>
> *www.homebuilthelp.com*
>
> *www.howtocrimp.com*
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi TIme,
=C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a littl
e over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because o
ur farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are sure it
will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of RV ers wh
en we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch all the time,
from Eugene, Oregon.
=C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a G
MX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love)=C2-This year we had a GTX330 ins
talled, along with a PMA700 audio panel=C2-when our transponder went out
near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors for
aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded later...
hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so we can upg
rade our plane. We want to fly all=C2- ver when we move to Ohio near wife
's brother. We keep reading=C2-about all your flying =C2-adventures, an
d are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the summer,s
elling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for short trips. O
h well..patience..
Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
Brian and Ruth
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
you needed to, although for not much more money you could
go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
"intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
Tim
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
>> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
>> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
>> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
>> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
>> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
>> for other things.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin Marks wrote:
>>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and have a tran
sponder
>>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still
>>> have privileges here.
>>>
>>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that wi
ll
>>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>>>
>>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
>>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
>>> It does not appear to be the case.
>>>
>>> =C2-
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>> =C2-
>>>
>>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>>>
>>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>>>
>>> Concept 1.5.jpg
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the la
st 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a dif
ferent configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm wond
ering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They will a
ll be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't b
ut I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general concensu
s?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
Steel fittings and integral firesleeve hoses on all fuel and oil lines FWF,
that's what I'd recommend.
Bob Brown
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF hoses
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm
wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They
will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I
don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general
concensus?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered
the Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably
won't for oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black
cloth covered Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I
haven't had a fire in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than
pray that a hose containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the
> stock Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down
> considerably in the last 2 years) they were more expensive than
> aftermarket and I also have a different configuration which requires a
> few custom lengths. So what I'm wondering is if I should firesleeve
> the oil lines while I'm at it. They will all be SS sleeved with a
> Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't but I'm thinking it
> would probably be worth it. What's the general concensus?
>
>
>
> Michael
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Van's now sends the fuel supply hoses with integral firesleeves so you are
already good there.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered A
eroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose con
taining flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the la
st 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a dif
ferent configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm wond
ering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They will a
ll be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't b
ut I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general concensu
s?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
builders who are considering the possibility of fire under the cowl should
consider a fire bottle. Stroud in OKC sells them and relatively easy to
install.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm
wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They
will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I
don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general
concensus?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Hey David,
I was looking at yours at OSH...
Do you have any FWF photos? Where does it spray to?
Phil
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF hoses
builders who are considering the possibility of fire under the cowl
should consider a fire bottle. Stroud in OKC sells them and relatively
easy to install.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered
the Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably
won't for oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black
cloth covered Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I
haven't had a fire in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than
pray that a hose containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the
stock Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably
in the last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I
also have a different configuration which requires a few custom lengths.
So what I'm wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm
at it. They will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly
more than if I don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it.
What's the general concensus?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount ears |
| From: | efdsteve(at)aol.com |
The order is engine bracket, plain 3/8" washer, 3/8" internal teeth lock
washer, 3/8-24 plain nut. I didn't see a special torque value listed, so
the standard of 30 foot pounds should apply.
Steve Weinstock
40230
Schaumburg, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 12:33 am
Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount ears
I am having trouble finding specific information on attaching the mounting
ears to my Van's supplied IO-540. I know this is a simple procedure, but
I am looking for specific washer stacking order and torque values for the
nuts along with any other pertinent info.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
========================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
On the topic of tools..............................
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
I don't have a full 90 degree drill. Used this successfully so far:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-551-26-right-angle-drill-attachment.aspx
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> On the topic of tools
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that theyre absolutely in love with?
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Precision Gasket |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
I thought the box it came in had Precision Airmotive labelling but actually it
is labelled Lycoming. Thus, it seems the answer is that it is indeed unrelated.
It's just all the gaskets in one envelope for the engine.
I guess I needed more practice assembling things without reading the instructions,
as i have done in the past. Who knew assembling Ikea furniture by first throwing
out those instructions is good practice for assembling lycoming engines!
;)
Jae
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279904#279904
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
eBay...
Nearly every combination & style imaginable.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Yeah, that's what I've been using. But I've finally stripped the gears
in it.
I'm going to go ahead and send it to Bob for repair, but I think I'm
going to get a real drill for daily use and keep the adaptor as a
backup.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
I don't have a full 90 degree drill. Used this successfully so far:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-551-26-right-angle-drill-attachment.aspx
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> On the topic of tools..............................
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. Do you know
how they are on grass? I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a little
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
>
>
> We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all ver when we move to Ohio
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying adventures,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >
> > Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
> > while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
> > system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> > transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
> > They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
> > long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
> > transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> >
> > Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> >> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> >> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> >> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
> >> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> >> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> >> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> >> for other things.
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Robin Marks wrote:
> >>> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder
> >>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still
> >>> have privileges here.
> >>>
> >>> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
> >>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> >>>
> >>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
> >>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
> >>> It does not appear to be the case.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Robin
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> >>>
> >>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> >>>
> >>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the hoses that Aerosport
Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and the line to the
oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While the MP line doesn't
need it, the oil pressure sender line may get firesleeved down the road
when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as is. ALL fuel and oil
cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
One picture shows the location in the cabin, the other shows the location on
the firewall. Note the blue fitting between the red/yellow/white wire bundle
(EGT/CHT wiring). That is the bulkhead T fitting through the firewall. From
there hard flared lines use the sprayers provided in the kit to spray Halon
behind the aft cylinder baffling; one hard line is routed through the aft
baffling and sprays over the engine. Because my engine is not carbureted, I
do not plumb a line to the carburetor box. On my Glastar, one lines sprays
the top of the engine and one line is plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the
carburetor air box. That fitting inside the box is capped and a #40 hole has
been drilled in the cap.
If you install a carbureted engine I recommend a pinhole plumbed
inside the carburetor box. This eliminates most damage done by carburetor
fires. Halon leaves no residue and requires no clean up.
How do you know if you have a carburetor fire? My Glastar has a Carburetor
air temperature sensor and displays on the panel. For fuel injected engines
a fire will produce smoke and engine instrument chts/egts will become
rapidly erratic. Discharging the bottle, expect to be a glider and prepare
to land immediately.
I could send some pictures of the FF installation, perhaps next week when I
remove the top cowl.
Of course, being prepared, in the Glastar (500+) and RV10 (200+) I have not
had the requirement to push the red fire handle. Of course in 3000 other
hours in certified aircraft I have had no requirement to wish I had a fire
handle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Just had a friend's Cozy light off an engine fire on start this
morning. He wishes he had more fire sleeving. He was lucky fire got
put out before spreading to fiberglass. Was basically from flooded
start.
For the extra 15% I think the integral firesleeve teflon hoses are
worth it. I have them on my Mooney and will use on RV-10.
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 10:12 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
> Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
> oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
> Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
> in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
> containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
> Linn ....... wiring the panel
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
> Im getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didnt get the stock
> Vans hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
> last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
> different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what Im
> wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while Im at it. They
> will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. Its certainly more than if I
> dont but Im thinking it would probably be worth it. Whats the general
> concensus?
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Movement |
Happy New Year to all the builders out there!
I have a quick question for those who have gone before...
What is the movement distance for the rudder cables (i.e. from full forward
to full aft) as measured from the rudder pedal attach point?
Many thanks
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
Phil -
I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate - too much starting torque.
I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
neal
===========
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode. Does my
18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different antenna?? upgrade??
larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
Love this one of mine.
http://store-planetools.com/angledrill--2800rpmfor14-28threadedbits.aspx
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
your avionics choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
I agree they are compact and worth the cost to fabricate to the correct length
let alone safer...flame away!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 14:07:21
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
Just had a friend's Cozy light off an engine fire on start this
morning. He wishes he had more fire sleeving. He was lucky fire got
put out before spreading to fiberglass. Was basically from flooded
start.
For the extra 15% I think the integral firesleeve teflon hoses are
worth it. I have them on my Mooney and will use on RV-10.
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 10:12 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
> Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
> oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
> Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
> in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
> containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
> Linn ....... wiring the panel
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
> Im getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didnt get the stock
> Vans hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
> last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
> different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what Im
> wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while Im at it. They
> will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. Its certainly more than if I
> dont but Im thinking it would probably be worth it. Whats the general
> concensus?
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Teaser triggers can give you the best of both. I passed on a 90 and 45
with either at $250. I still regret the day that I passed. Couldn't
justify more for the RV-10 build.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Neal George
Sent: Sun 1/3/2010 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
Phil -
I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate - too much starting torque.
I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
neal
===========
On the topic of tools..............................
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warming up in the -10 |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I can't believe you let your 10 get that cold?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279944#279944
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
your avionics choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/02/10 08:22:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source,
but the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
GPS.
The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or
something like that, and the blade is much larger.
The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote:
>
> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two
> ships
> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>
> Robin
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
>
> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
> your avionics choices and configuration.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
>>
>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>
>> --------
>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Movement |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
4.5" comes to mind (IIRC)
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279955#279955
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
To answer your direct question:
Yes, you can splice (crimp joint or solder/shrink tubing) the mike and phone wires.
Try to keep the length which is not inside the shield to a minimum. If you
are really anal you can put a braided shield over the splice area (connected
to the cable shield) when you're done, but it shouldn't be necessary.
Here is what is necessary, for the lowest noise: Do not allow the shield to touch
the airframe anywhere except at the audio panel ground connection. This includes
the splice, and the jacks. The jacks should be isolated with non-conducting
washers (Stein sells them), and the "ground" side of the jack brought back
to the audio panel with its own wire, not the braid. Do not connect the braid
to anything at the jack end. This means that you need to have multi-conductor
(2 plus shield, 3 if stereo) installed.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279957#279957
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Officially you need 6 ft between your UAT antenna and the Garmin
transponder. 4 ft may work. UAT antenna is a DME antenna.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but it's
a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships so I will
figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix that
mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on your avionics
choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode.
> Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different
> antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/02/10 08:22:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal material
at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I was
wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Tim;
You mention the shark fin transponder, is that a specific requirement or
does any transponder antenna work the same?
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
> It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
> you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
> vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
> navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source, but
> the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
> requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
> GPS.
>
> The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or something
> like that, and the blade is much larger.
> The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote:
>
>>
>> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
>> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
>> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
>> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>>
>>
>> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
>> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
>> your avionics choices and configuration.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism at the bottom of their do
ors. As I am finishing my door latches I am considering adding an '"L" sha
ped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into the bottom door frame/fu
se) that would move aft (attached to the aft rod) through a slot and provid
e assurance that the door can not move upward=2C both to improve fit and fo
r safety against door opening. Any thoughts on this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
What some have done is leave a bigger gap and use a thicker seal material to bridge
the gap. The main loss would be a little of the ram air effect on Manifold
Pressure. I've heard this is mainly an issue at altitude.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:18 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal
material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I
was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Aviation Induced Divorce Syndrome. ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
The 330 doesn't provide ADS-B, it just allows the Mode-S information to go to the
ADS-B, and somehow show both on the same display. I don't know the details,
but your 330 can't provide ADS-B.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 3, 2010, at 4:57 PM, lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode. Does
my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different antenna?? upgrade??
larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
I left mine off and have at the most a gap of 3/16" between the FAB and the snorkel.
I was hoping someone could tell me if it's an issue because the engine runs
fine. I admit that it bothers me that I don't have the seal but I may go with
the Harmon Rocket scoop Don McDonald used....I love that look:!
Rick Sked
N246RS
------Original Message------
From: AirMike
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 3, 2010 5:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal material
at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I was
wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Greetings,
I sent this to the aeroelectric list, but I'm not surprised that it went
unanswered. That being said, THANKS to the RV-10 flyers and builders
for their assistance. One of the great things about this list is the
flyers still stick around!
For those of you who employed Z-14 (Dual Alt/Dual Battery) what have you
experienced with your contactor switch settings? I'd hate to make one
wrong flip of a switch and fry a G430. I know Bob Condrey and Rick are
using this setup. Bill "flying soon" Watson will be using it eventually
too.
Thanks,
Phil
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: Z-14 Switch Combos
I'm getting a handle on Z-14 from an operational perspective and have a
couple of questions about the switch combinations that could create
issues.
Obviously with the added complexity of managing two batteries, two
alternators, and a cross feed can create some interesting combinations.
Are there any combo's that we should be aware of that would create over
voltage or any other scenarios of concern?
In the event of a failure (for example Alt 2 failure), is there a
specific order for shutting off the bad alt and then enabling the cross
feed?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice cent
er latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see
if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch wi
th a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(sur
prise) because you could not open from the outside in
an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism at the
bottom of their doors. As I am finishing my door lat
ches I am considering adding an '"L" shaped catch in th
e bottom of the door (inserted into the bottom door fra
me/fuse) that would move aft (attached to the aft rod)
through a slot and provide assurance that the door can
not move upward, both to improve fit and for safety aga
inst door opening. Any thoughts on this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Movement |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
And two foot pounds of pressure to move them....one per pedal!! ):
------Original Message------
From: jkreidler
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 3, 2010 4:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement
4.5" comes to mind (IIRC)
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279955#279955
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi TIm,
=C2-Ruth told me that the Tiger does well on grass. She has landed it on
grass and taxied...does well. She has 2000 hrs, mostly in Tigers (110 hrs i
n an overpriced Cirrus SR20 we had for 6 months).=C2-When we sell (we do
have two interested clients now), I will have to get my certificate before
we sell it. But it will be so great to move on with our lives. Talk to you
later Tim.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 11:33:51 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. =C2-Do you know
how they are on grass? =C2-I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> =C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a lit
tle
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
> =C2-
>
> =C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all =C2-ver when we move to Oh
io
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying =C2-adventur
es,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
com>
> =C2->
> =C2-> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for AD
SB,
> =C2-> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and r
obust
> =C2-> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> =C2-> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transpond
er.
> =C2-> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft
. As
> =C2-> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR
with no
> =C2-> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> =C2->
> =C2-> Tim Olson wrote:
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> =C2->> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> =C2->> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
> =C2->> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> =C2->> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> =C2->> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> =C2->> for other things.
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Tim
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin Marks wrote:
> =C2->>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and hav
e a transponder
> =C2->>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I sti
ll
> =C2->>> have privileges here.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder
that will
> =C2->>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is I
FR
> =C2->>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx an
d TIS?
> =C2->>> It does not appear to be the case.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Thanks,
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Robin
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok, it was an ex-wife's mothers sister.-
Don
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 5:26 PM
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
On the 8A I modified the cowl inlet, extending it forward and adding a shark
fin between the inlet and the top of the bottom cowl. The FAB was modified
to accept a 3" SCAT hose. I made and then glassed in a 2" long tube to the
inside of the cowl inlet, the tube diameter such that the 3" hose slides
over it. The hose is attached to the FAB with a hose clamp, and slides on
the outside of the lower cowl tube. As the hose is slightly longer than the
gap between the cowl and the FAB, the hose spring keeps it in place. I'll
do something similar for the 10.
Attached is a photo of the second cowl mod - still in primer gray at that
point. I had to move the intake back 3/4" for prop clearance when I
upgraded to a Hartzell CS prop on the 8A.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle
seal material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another
builder, I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution
to this problem or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material
off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Nope, not aviation induced.....happenned before the sailing and the airplan
e... got a really good one now... fights for the right hand seat!
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrot
e:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 5:43 PM
ausen.net>
Aviation Induced Divorce Syndrome.- ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Here you go Rick....
G'Day all,
I am a 3 time offender (two RV6's and now a 10). I have about 1400 hrs
on RV's and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till about a
year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I remembered Van's
advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The passenger managed to grab
the door as I turned downwind and applied rudder - the slip helped close
the door.
I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The RV10
is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles' heal!
Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very
simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and
Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with this
forum as I believe ALL RV10's should have a similar device. It can only
improve A/C safety.
I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to
cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has a
safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.
My door latch works in a similar fashion:
First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin
frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to be
reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the plate,
which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some undercut on
the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on the door). The
striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place - an easy retro-fit.
http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg
<http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39472qo0.jpg>
The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower cabin
frame.
http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg
<http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39422fc2.jpg>
Next the door latch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door skin
and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-shaped bracket
secured to the base of the door and there is a powerful hinge spring
that ensures that the latch engages the undercut of the Z-plate. The
name "Staniforth latch" is to honour the poor victim who was sitting in
the plane when the door unexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to
come for a fly (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!
http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg
<http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39492gw2.jpg>
The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.
http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39462nm1.jpg
<http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39462nm1.jpg>
As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker plate
and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker plate. Very
simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!
http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg
<http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39442xo6.jpg>
Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.
Note the undercut on the latch in the photo below.
http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg
<http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39452ip0.jpg>
It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks out
about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening the door from
outside.
http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg
<http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39392os9.jpg>
The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:
(i) once the door closes, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring
loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and even if
the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch (pins), the door
cannot open - this function I expected.
Additional (unexpected) functions are:
(ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward SO
THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes the
problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and the door seal pushing
the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to engage.
(iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors
actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are carried
by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-flight and they
become really tight because of the load they are carrying. This reduces
the forces that have to be carried by the door pins.
At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have a
look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very
favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage to
the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!
BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really increases
comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would say! I fitted a
FlightLine system and it works as advitised!
Cheers
Andre Viljoen
Follow-up Message:
Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the latch
cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg
<http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=83120866kx1.jpg>
The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we can
see:
* Two stainless steel 'L' shaped brackets that have been bolted and
epoxied to the base of the door.
* An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the latch
to make a hinge.
* On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin of
the door.
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg
<http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=70296171dk7.jpg>
This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the
door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the head
of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work. Also seen
are the two countersunk bolts that secure the 'L' shaped brackets.
http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg
<http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp41302gq7.jpg>
Here the latch is being held up from the outside - note the powerful
spring that pulls the latch downwards and ensures that it engages
securely with the striker plate.
From: ricksked(at)cox.net [mailto:ricksked(at)cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will
need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring
loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi again TIm,
I was ambiguos about the word sell. I meant that we have two interested cli
ents in the farm, not the plane..we are about to put some leather seats in
it also. Got a very good bid from someone in Aurora, Oregon near Vans. I kn
ow we won't get our money all back when we sell 179GT, but we will at least
have some fun with it before we move, and perhaps for a short while after.
Th epanel pics are from before we had the GTX 330 and PMA 7000 audio panel
installed. Al so hard wired the 696 on the co-pilot's side. It shows traff
ic also.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 11:33:51 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. =C2-Do you know
how they are on grass? =C2-I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> =C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a lit
tle
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
> =C2-
>
> =C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all =C2-ver when we move to Oh
io
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying =C2-adventur
es,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
com>
> =C2->
> =C2-> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for AD
SB,
> =C2-> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and r
obust
> =C2-> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> =C2-> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transpond
er.
> =C2-> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft
. As
> =C2-> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR
with no
> =C2-> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> =C2->
> =C2-> Tim Olson wrote:
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> =C2->> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> =C2->> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
> =C2->> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> =C2->> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> =C2->> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> =C2->> for other things.
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Tim
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin Marks wrote:
> =C2->>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and hav
e a transponder
> =C2->>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I sti
ll
> =C2->>> have privileges here.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder
that will
> =C2->>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is I
FR
> =C2->>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx an
d TIS?
> =C2->>> It does not appear to be the case.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Thanks,
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Robin
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Phil,
Very clever and simple design.
Wish someone with machining capabilities would make these for others
to use!
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:12 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Here you go Rick=85.
>
>
> G=92Day all,
>
> I am a 3 time offender (two RV6=92s and now a 10). I have about 1400
> hrs on RV=92s and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till
> about a year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I
> remembered Van=92s advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The
> passenger managed to grab thedoor as I turned downwind and applied
> rudder ' the slip helped close the door.
>
> I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The
> RV10 is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles=92 heal!
>
> Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very
> simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and
> Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with
> this forum as I believe ALL RV10=92s should have a similar device. It
> can only improve A/C safety.
>
> I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to
> cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has
> a safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.
>
> My door latch works in a similar fashion:
>
> First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin
> frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to
> be reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the
> plate, which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some
> undercut on the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on
> the door). The striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place -
> an easy retro-fit.
>
> http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg
>
> The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower
> cabin frame.
>
> http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg
>
> Next the door latch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door
> skin and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-
> shaped bracket secured to the base of the door and there is a
> powerful hinge spring that ensures that the latch engages the
> undercut of the Z-plate. The name "Staniforth latch" is to honour
> the poor victim who was sitting in the plane when the
> doorunexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to come for a fly
> (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!
>
> http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg
>
> The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.
>
> http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39462nm1.jpg
>
> As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker
> plate and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker
> plate. Very simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!
>
> http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg
>
> Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.
>
> Note the undercut on the latch in the photo below.
>
> http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg
>
> It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks
> out about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening the
> door from outside.
>
> http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg
>
> The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:
>
> (i) once the door closes, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring
> loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and
> even if the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch
> (pins), the door cannot open - this function I expected.
>
> Additional (unexpected) functions are:
>
> (ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward
> SO THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes
> the problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and thedoor seal
> pushing the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to
> engage.
>
> (iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors
> actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are
> carried by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-
> flight and they become really tight because of the load they are
> carrying. This reduces the forces that have to be carried by the
> door pins.
>
> At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have
> a look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very
> favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage
> to the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!
>
> BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really
> increases comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would
> say! I fitted a FlightLine system and it works as advitised!
>
> Cheers
>
> Andre Viljoen
>
>
> Follow-up Message:
>
> Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the
> latch cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.
>
> http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg
>
> The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we
> can see:
> * Two stainless steel =91L=92 shaped brackets that have been bolted and
> epoxied to the base of thedoor.
> * An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the
> latch to make a hinge.
> * On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin
> of the door.
>
> http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg
>
> This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the
> door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the
> head of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work.
> Also seen are the two countersunk bolts that secure the =91L=92 shaped
> brackets.
>
> http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg
>
> Here the latch is being held up from the outside ' note the powerful
> spring that pulls the latchdownwards and ensures that it engages
> securely with the striker plate.
>
>
> From: ricksked(at)cox.net [mailto:ricksked(at)cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Mike,
>
> There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
> will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was
> a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone
> tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in
> an emergency
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
2 problems...
1) You will lose some intake pressure where you may have had a little
RAM air effect.
2) The bigger problem....you may leak air and pressurize your lower
cowling, which would then cause it to be at a higher pressure, which
would then cause the differential from above the cylinders to below
the cylinders to be less, which could cause cooling problems from
both cylinders, and/or oil cooling. I know it's a pain, but
the best move is to just rework that area until it's bearable.
Mine is a very good close seal. I save some headaches by doing
plain oil changes without removing the lower cowl.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
AirMike wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle
> interface seal on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has
> eliminated the baffle seal material at the interface. In discussing
> this problem with another builder, I was wondering if any builder has
> come up with a unique solution to this problem or the technical
> ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>
> -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
I think I asked that question of them during my install too, and was
just highly encouraged to use a shark fin. From an aerodynamic
perspective I think it's better too. You want a DME/Transponder
antenna that works in that range from 960-1220mhz. I think
mine is the RAMI AV-74
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Pascal wrote:
>
> Tim;
> You mention the shark fin transponder, is that a specific requirement or
> does any transponder antenna work the same?
> Thanks!
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:13 PM
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
>>
>> It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
>> you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
>> vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
>> navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source,
>> but the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
>> requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
>> GPS.
>>
>> The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or
>> something like that, and the blade is much larger.
>> The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
>>> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
>>> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
>>> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>>>
>>>
>>> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
>>> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
>>> your avionics choices and configuration.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>>>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>>>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod so it
would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am hoping so
meone smarter than I has already done the design.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked(at)cox.net
Date: Mon=2C 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
Mike=2C
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch=2C I will nee
d to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded
latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) be
cause you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun=2C 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom of&n
= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I am consi
deri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted
into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would move aft (at
tached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the doo
r can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit and for safety against do
or opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this? =
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
)=AD=E6=DF=A2{l=8B7=B7=0Fg('=8A=D3M4=D1=F6=9C{p=DC=A2=EAz=B9=DE=C1
=CA.=AE'=AB=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC4=E1y=15u=D0=B8
=AC=B4I=9A=8AQh=AE=E9=B7 K=1E=B6=17=8Cj=DA=E8=9E'=2C.+-=15=E6=AD=BA=B7=AC5
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=2C=B9=C8Z=B0=B8=AC=B5I=FFJ=E6=ECr=B8=A9=B6*'=DC0+r=18=AFy'=9A=AD=C8C=A3
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=F8 j=DA+E]t.+-=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
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=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC3&#
0=3BM=13=8D $'=10=11NEC=12=DC4=9A=99=E8+y=AB\=A2{^=9E=D6=A5=B2=86=AFj)ZnW
=AF=89=ABayg=9B=16=8A=EE=9A=CD=C3=DC6=A1=AD=E7=F7=0E=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB
=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9A=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F6
=B7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7
=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp
=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=CB
=8A=CBB=A2{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=D6y=B4=A2=B5=ED=C3N=16=A7=93*.~=8A=F2=A2=EA=E0z
w=AB=A2=EB=2C=BA=9Ah=AE=DD=C31=ABm=0E=B6=A5-=B2=D0=1D=9A)=F7 =A8ky
=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F7(=9E=DAn=EBb=A2xm=B6=9F
=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89r=89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
No need to spend like the military with their $400 hammers--$57.25!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tightfittoolkit.php
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 6:29 PM, John Cox wrote:
> Teaser triggers can give you the best of both. I passed on a 90 and 45
> with either at $250. I still regret the day that I passed. Couldn't
> justify more for the RV-10 build.
>
> John Cox
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Neal George
> *Sent:* Sun 1/3/2010 1:39 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
>
> Phil '
>
> I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
>
> Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate ' too much starting torque.
>
> I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
>
> neal
>
>
> ===========
>
> On the topic of tools=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85
>
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they=92re absolutely in love with?
>
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
>
> Phil
>
> *
> *
>
> **
>
>
> --
> William
> N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading
a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a
third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's
machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he
has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that
actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test
models that would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity
to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane
and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed
the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad
and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we
decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is
not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors
don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing
about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to
avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have
this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for
this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
----- Original Message ----- .
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am
hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked(at)cox.net
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will
need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring
loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To:
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I
am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
(inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
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3D
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=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I built up the inlet of the airbox so it has a flat face parallel to the
crank flange, then glued a smooth plastic "O" to it made from something like
.032 PVC sheet. Aluminum would work too. Then I built the inside of the
cowl aft to within a half-inch of the "O" and filled the half-inch gap with
a soft foam seal. The seal is glued to the cowl and it just compresses
about 1/8" when the cowl goes on. The smooth plastic is the sealing surface
that the foam contacts. There's no mechanical connection so the FAB can
move around all it wants.
You hardly notice it's there, and it can't fold down to block the inlet.
I'll look for some pictures tomorrow.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 5:18 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
> on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle
> seal material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another
> builder, I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution
> to this problem or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material
> off.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
Phil,
I suspect you have more questions but short story is that there is no switc
h setting on a Z-14 configuration that will "fry" anything. We can discuss
when you call.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos
Greetings,
I sent this to the aeroelectric list, but I'm not surprised that it went un
answered. That being said, THANKS to the RV-10 flyers and builders for the
ir assistance. One of the great things about this list is the flyers still
stick around!
For those of you who employed Z-14 (Dual Alt/Dual Battery) what have you ex
perienced with your contactor switch settings? I'd hate to make one wrong
flip of a switch and fry a G430. I know Bob Condrey and Rick are using th
is setup. Bill "flying soon" Watson will be using it eventually too.
Thanks,
Phil
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: Z-14 Switch Combos
I'm getting a handle on Z-14 from an operational perspective and have a cou
ple of questions about the switch combinations that could create issues.
Obviously with the added complexity of managing two batteries, two alternat
ors, and a cross feed can create some interesting combinations.
Are there any combo's that we should be aware of that would create over vol
tage or any other scenarios of concern?
In the event of a failure (for example Alt 2 failure), is there a specific
order for shutting off the bad alt and then enabling the cross feed?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
There are some important factors for the door mechanism:
Lightweight
Emergency exit - if the plane is on fire you want the pax to easily open
the door
Strong - there is some mechanical leverage on the main handle
Ease of use for passengers to close the doors without a long explanation
on how they work - part of the breifing
Be maintainable
The third pin we designed is a little heavy. It would add a little
weight to the doors and might require a stronger gas strut. It is also
expensive. It would cost about 200 bucks for materials alone from Vans'
price sheet do fit both doors.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Thanks Sean,
I would not call my patch a =9Cfix=9D but
rather =9Canother thing to get in the way of inadvertent
unlatching.=9D My =9Cadd on=9D gives me much greater
security but they are not the solution. I think the third pin concept
has a lot of merit and I saw someone=99s design that seemed like a
slam dunk with minor redesign to the pivoting part of the handle (lousy
description). HOWEVER the "Staniforth latch" solves a problem the third
pin can never solve. Inadvertent unlatching. There is mechanism failure
and inadvertent unlatching I bet the WHOOPS especially from the PAX side
is a real possibility. If someone accidently unlatches
that=99s goodbye gull wing. I guess I have to give a shout out to
Jessie=99s strap, that will hold the door in place too and
probably the easiest retrofit. That is why I like the Staniforth latch.
Problem solved. Thanks for the write up Andre.
My non-solution, solution.
Note: these same mechanisms with the latch handle in the proper
orientation (arm pointing out) are an accident waiting to happen by just
catching on a sleeve. Turned pointing in reduces the chances
significantly. Adding the leaver lock gets you even further down the
road.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:00 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After
reading a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been
looking at a third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in
my father's machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in
flight and he has worked on several different ways to make a third pin
or latch that actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful
making some test models that would work. So as time went on we have had
the opportunity to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job
with his plane and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He
also installed the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched.
After my dad and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with
Scott we decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the
door is not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my
doors don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good
thing about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the
handle to avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches
don't have this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up
with a fix for this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
----- Original Message ----- .
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am
hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked(at)cox.net
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a
spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To:
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I
am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
(inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
=
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/c
======================= No
virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/03/10 09:41:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I left a small extension on the cowl inlet that fits inside of a short
length of SCAT tube. The SCAT tube is inserted into a recess built into the
filtered air box. There are two fingers attached to the outside of the FAB
that hold the SCAT tube in a retracted position while the bottom cowl is
raised into position. After the cowl is positioned the fingers are pushed
aside and that allows the SCAT tube to spring forward around the cowl inlet
extension. Since I have a 3 blade prop the bottom cowl must be raised
straight up into position. This works well for me.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I'm not sure what the plans call for in the way of a seal, but The James
cowl/plenum uses neoprene cylinders to bridge the gap between the cowl
and the plenum. I also used this same method to bridge the gap between
the induction air cowl intake and the Rod Bowers Ram/Filtered air.
Seeing this thread makes e wonder if it would also work in this application.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07042.html
It's flexible enough to not interfere with the removal/install of the
lower cowl. While installation of the cowl ususllay results in a 'kink'
in the cylinder, I can reach in from the front of the cowl with my
fingers and easily get the neoprene to slip over the air canister.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> What some have done is leave a bigger gap and use a thicker seal material to
bridge the gap. The main loss would be a little of the ram air effect on Manifold
Pressure. I've heard this is mainly an issue at altitude.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:18 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
>>
>> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal
material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder,
I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B - testing phase 1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I used the insert that Bob (TCW) sells:
http://tcwtech.com/RV-10-construction-project.htm
One change is I drilled the holes in the steps and mounts to 1/4 and in the
insert to 5/16 to enable the use of an AN4 bolt. They're rock solid now.
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:12 PM, wrote:
>
> I still have not flown (DAR tomorrow then wait for runway(s) to de-ice) and
> already my pilotside step is a little loose. I remember that TCW had
> machined an insert that they said worked well. Are those commercially
> avialable or are there any other "fixes" out there. I did construct access
> panels so I can get to those pesky AN-3 bolts. Jay Rowe
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
There is a modification to the Staniforth or Oz latch that will be available very
soon from a reliable source. It can be opened from the outside. As a beta tester
I just finished installing them on my doors, and I think builders are going
to find them a good solution. It took about 8-10 hours to fabricate the parts
and install in both doors. No problem retrofitting the latches to finished
and painted doors. I have been sworn to secrecy for another 1-2 weeks, so please
don't ask for more info at this time.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280080#280080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
There is a Yahoo GRT list.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/?yguid=327154950
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 1:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
You can try...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
Also, there is some info at Vans Air Force, glass panel forum.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
It is in yahoo.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog
or users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly
(waiting for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course,
am having the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and
is it still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
I too have this same drill worth the cost and is very easy to control the
speed of the drill.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution ProviderFrom:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
Love this one of mine.
http://store-planetools.com/angledrill--2800rpmfor14-28threadedbits.aspx
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil <mailto:Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
OK here is my 2 cents worth again and yes the A&P hat is on. ALL FLUID LINES
UNDER THE COWL NEED TO BE FIRE SLEEVED NO MATTER IF THERE RUBBER OR TEFLON
LINES.
This is a very BIG Safety issue. I have seen several fires on plane engine
compartments on receps and turbines, it is not a pretty site at all. They
usually always include an offsite landing that causes the plane to get
trashed in the process. And the fire was caused by lines never getting
replaces at over haul or 5 years for rubber hoses.
My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all fluid
lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt relies on
it.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF hoses
Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the hoses that
Aerosport Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and the line
to the oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While the MP
line doesn't need it, the oil pressure sender line may get firesleeved down
the road when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as is. ALL
fuel and oil cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AMSAFE rotary belts |
If anyone is considering the use of the AMSAFE rotary belts for their RV10
you might want to visit the <http://www.inertialbelts.com>
www.inertialbelts.com site. AMSAFE has raised their prices to me another 5%
and indicated that any order place before 1/31/2010 will still receive the
2009 price. I will be adjusting prices on the website by 1/31/2010.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting frame
to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt? Our
fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market for our
belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
Check the archives, there were conversations about this exact subject in the past.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 6:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting frame
to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt? Our
fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market for our
belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
Well said!
grumpy
On Jan 4, 2010, at 3:06 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> OK here is my 2 cents worth again and yes the A&P hat is on. ALL
> FLUID LINES
> UNDER THE COWL NEED TO BE FIRE SLEEVED NO MATTER IF THERE RUBBER OR
> TEFLON
> LINES.
>
> This is a very BIG Safety issue. I have seen several fires on plane
> engine
> compartments on receps and turbines, it is not a pretty site at
> all. They
> usually always include an offsite landing that causes the plane to get
> trashed in the process. And the fire was caused by lines never
> getting
> replaces at over haul or 5 years for rubber hoses.
>
> My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all
> fluid
> lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt
> relies on
> it.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:35 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF hoses
>
>
> Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the
> hoses that
> Aerosport Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and
> the line
> to the oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While
> the MP
> line doesn't need it, the oil pressure sender line may get
> firesleeved down
> the road when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as
> is. ALL
> fuel and oil cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
The bolt or nut in the inside would interfere with the rotary wheel; that
was the reason for designing the block so that the internal fasteners would
be flush with the bracket and that the external side did not hve screw
thread and nuts externally.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 5:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting
frame to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt?
Our fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market
for our belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The integral firesleeve hoses are the easiest way to accomplish this,
because they have none of the inconveniences of external firesleeve,
most if not all have teflon core, making them last at least as long as
the engine TBO. IIRC William Curtis has a list of all the hoses with
lengths and fittings on his website, so even ordering is easy. Of
course if Vans is supplying some of the hoses integral firesleeve,
that reduces the number you have to get from other sources.
And yes, I agree with John, you want any hose that carries flammable
liquids in front of the firewall to be firesleeve protected one way or
another.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:06 PM, John Cumins wrote:
> My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all fluid
> lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt relies on
> it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Thanks to everyone, that pretty much confirmed what my impressions were. All
fluid lines will be fire sleeved. One data point on the integral vs. add on
fire sleeve, Bonaco is more than HALF ($457 vs. $1015) what Aircraft Hose is for
a $558 savings for my configuration. The only difference is that Bonaco's
fire sleeve isn't integral. I'll sacrifice the good looks and couple other minor
advantages for more than 50% savings. :)
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: FWF hoses
The integral firesleeve hoses are the easiest way to accomplish this,
because they have none of the inconveniences of external firesleeve,
most if not all have teflon core, making them last at least as long as
the engine TBO. IIRC William Curtis has a list of all the hoses with
lengths and fittings on his website, so even ordering is easy. Of
course if Vans is supplying some of the hoses integral firesleeve,
that reduces the number you have to get from other sources.
And yes, I agree with John, you want any hose that carries flammable
liquids in front of the firewall to be firesleeve protected one way or
another.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:06 PM, John Cumins wrote:
> My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all fluid
> lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt relies on
> it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Has anyone asked AmSafe if they'd sell their air bag inflatable aviation
belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would one have
to let AmSafe's authorized service center install them?
TDT
40025
Wiring the radio stack
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
I'm interested in this too and can't find anything about it for
homebuilders. I'm a big believer that this would be a life saver or at
least be able to walk away from an engine failure.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Has anyone asked AmSafe if they'd sell their air bag inflatable
aviation belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would
one have to let AmSafe's authorized service center install them?
TDT
40025
Wiring the radio stack
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AMSAFE inflatable belts |
I have forwarded this to my AMSAFE contact. The question has been asked
before with non committal results
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Has anyone asked AmSafe if they'd sell their air bag inflatable aviation
belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would one have to
let AmSafe's authorized service center install them?
TDT
40025
Wiring the radio stack
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
They were taking names and model numbers at OSH last year just to get a
feel for how successful the homebuilt market would be and which models
they should be concerned with. Ditto with the BRS chute folks too....
Not sure if anything ever happened with the data though.
From: Seano [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
I'm interested in this too and can't find anything about it for
homebuilders. I'm a big believer that this would be a life saver or at
least be able to walk away from an engine failure.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Has anyone asked AmSafe if they'd sell their air bag inflatable
aviation belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would
one have to let AmSafe's authorized service center install them?
TDT
40025
Wiring the radio stack
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AMSAFE inflatable belts |
The problem with both items are the attach points and the fail safe
activation of the item. Considerable design would be required to implement
inflatable belts or BRS in an experimental. With many experimentals, the
volume required to justify the design costs would not exist. In addition
there is no guarantee that each experimental of a given class would be
structurally identical to the others. With a small market and little control
over the construction process, the risk of accident/lawsuit would far exceed
the rewards. IIRC the costs per inflatable seat restraint was going to be
about $2500+ each assuming that an acceptable installation design could be
determined. .
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
They were taking names and model numbers at OSH last year just to get a feel
for how successful the homebuilt market would be and which models they
should be concerned with. Ditto with the BRS chute folks too..
Not sure if anything ever happened with the data though.
From: Seano [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
I'm interested in this too and can't find anything about it for
homebuilders. I'm a big believer that this would be a life saver or at
least be able to walk away from an engine failure.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <mailto:tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Has anyone asked AmSafe if they'd sell their air bag inflatable aviation
belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would one have to
December 31, 2009 - January 05, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fu