RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fv
January 05, 2010 - January 13, 2010
let AmSafe's authorized service center install them?
TDT
40025
Wiring the radio stack
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Lancair has them for sale. I'm sure they would sell them to non-Lancair
builders for $4,390 per pair.
http://www.lancair.com/Main/iv_ivp_options.html
222-0008-A Airbag Seat Belts (Available in black only, Pilot\Co-pilot only)
*$4,390.00* PR
KDS0140 3 Point Inertial Reel Front Seat Belt Black *$370.00* EA
KDS0141 3 Point Inertial Reel Front Seat Belt -*Special Color *$395.00*
EA
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <
tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote:
> Has anyone asked AmSafe if they=92d sell their air bag inflatable aviati
on
> belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would one have
to
> let AmSafe=92s authorized service center install them?
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
> Wiring the radio stack
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)*
> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
Lancair sells a system for their kits:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=222-0008
I'm not sure if they would sell to other brands. We looked at it for a
customer and you pretty much had to forfeit the rear footwells to install
them in a Lancair IV because of all the added structure.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 6:29 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <
tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote:
> Has anyone asked AmSafe if they=92d sell their air bag inflatable aviati
on
> belts to homebuilders? And how much they would cost? Or would one have
to
> let AmSafe=92s authorized service center install them?
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
> Wiring the radio stack
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
| From: | "David Shelton" <SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com> |
Reservations? Rental Cars? I usually just bring my motorcycle. The RV-10 is a nice
airplane but it only takes me to other airports. RV-10 + Motorcycle lets me
go anywhere I want without any hassles. :D
www.MotorcyclePilot.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280295#280295
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/motorcycle_151.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
My neighbor is a chief with the fire department. My older friend is a retir
ed LAPD VIP motorcaid cop who also trained othe cops in the motorschool.
The fireman said that only 100% of them go down. The LAPD guy said he would
kill me if he ever caught me on a road bike...and he laid his down one tim
e.
What happens when you put a motorcycle inside an airplane???
Be careful!
Who will end up flying that plane back home?
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
> From: SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Tue=2C 5 Jan 2010 15:41:02 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Reservations? Rental Cars? I usually just bring my motorcycle. The RV-10
is a nice airplane but it only takes me to other airports. RV-10 + Motorcyc
le lets me go anywhere I want without any hassles. :D
>
> www.MotorcyclePilot.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280295#280295
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/motorcycle_151.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
VGhhdCdzIGZ1bm55ISEgTXkgRGFkIHdvdWxkIHB1dCBtZSBpbiBhbiBhaXJwbGFuZSBhbmQgdGVs
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IA0KIAkJIAkgICAJCSAgDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
If you're talking about airbag harnesses I flew with the shoulder 'air bags' on
a cirrus and found them to be the most uncomfortable harnesses i've ever used--including
many military planes. i asked the cirrus rep flying with me and he
said he would take them off in flight because they were uncomfortable!!! on
the other hand i wished we could put the parachute on the -10 like cirrus has.
larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280368#280368
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I need some pro-builders, that's all of you on the list, to help me
with my lights on the overhead. Pilots that have flown the 10 or
pilots that have flown a lot of other planes I need your advice. That
includes you Tim and Robin. I want all feedback I won't get my
feelers hurt. I don't want to punch unnecessary holes in my overhead
console. I have two configurations below but not limited to these.
Also, I will make some bezels for the LED's.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280393#280393
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05528_753.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05527_210.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead map and panel lighting options |
I think I'm going to do the same. Sounds like you didn't use the base
but just threaded them directly with added flox for reinforcement. Got it.
Did you get the red ones? That's my plan. They are basic panel
illumination for anything unlit (not much that is).
The Aveos look sweet but a little too pricey. Some sort of cheap white
button unit like the Vans unit sounds right. I may just go for a
separate battery-only unit. for the backup. Then I'd have 2 dimmable
red units and an undimmed white unit.
That little console is working out nice. Nutserts work well for the
screwing. The 430W attenna goes in perfectly. Good position on the
plane, covered by the mini-console nicely. Good solution overall. I
may try to post a pic or two to the list.
Thanks.
Dave Saylor wrote:
> I put one each of Stein's swivel LEDs in the front edge or our
> console. I had to go back later and really slather up the securing
> nuts with flox to make them stay tight. No problems now, though.
> Nice and tight. They're dimmed by pots on the panel.
>
> I recently put one of Van's $9 white LEDs pointing straight down in
> the same console. It runs off a little overhead toggle switch. I
> understand it'll run off a 9V battery, and it would be cool to have
> another position on the switch to select that, you know, just in case...
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I'm looking for some suggestions for overhead lighting. I have
> Dave Saylor's mini console and would like to choose some lights to
> install in it.
> Stein and ACS have some swivel LED lights and they look good.
> Perihelion goosenecks look interesting but not sure how they
> really look.
>
> I assume dimming them would be a good thing but not mandatory. Or
> switches are required.
>
> I'm thinking a white light and a separate red or blue would the
> solution. I've flown with red but never with blue. Not sure what
> the trade-offs are.
>
> BTW, I'm installing the 430W GPS antenna directly over the
> mini-console with the cable going thru the center post. I'm also
> in the process of installing 2 more GPS antenna (GRT & ADI) on the
> windshield lip so that they will clear any paint. They will be
> angled slightly forward but I'm thinking that will work well. All
> of those cables plus power for the lights seems to be fitting in
> the center post.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Bill "ready for some NYE celebration" Watson
>
>
> ==========
> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> "_blank">www.howtocrimp.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> le, List Admin.
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
Strasnuts
First off, it looks good either way. I have a Accuracy avionics
overhead. I have a couple small LEDs fairly far forward, up by the four
nuts holding the center bar. I have done some night flying recently and
it seems that the sun visors will sometimes obstruct the light access to
the panel. Farther back may be better, for what it's worth.
Dr Fred
515FW
200 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
I'd really recommend the dome light for up front, and one
in the back if you wish as an option. The one in front
is very handy. My click-lights work in the back OK for
the kids, but if you wire up one, you could just as easily
wire up the second for the rear seat.
Then, for spot/moveable LED's, I'd really recommend that
the front have TWO of them, and that they be moveable.
I find that I could even use 3 if you want full lighting
on everything up front. What I usually do is when we're
in cruise, I dim everything as much as possible, but turn
my 2 overhead red lights so that I can see all the panel
switches well, and the co-pilot side is on the throttle
quadrant area. I leave the side by the breakers only
dimly lit...nothing aimed at them. In an ideal world,
I would have a left, right, and center. But you'll
want all switches to have some sort of illumination
to make them visible at night. don't find that a
glareshield light would do a fantastic job of lighting
switches down on the bottom of the panel without it being
really bright, and I don't like any bright lighting in the
cockpit at night. I dim the EFIS's, and everything else
to the minimum.
So, with that in mind, I like the photo with the 2
eyeball lights best. You may want eyeballs in the rear,
too. I put some lighting back by the rear air vents
that seems to be OK for the girls....although I
should probably make it brighter than what have today.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I need some pro-builders, that's all of you on the list, to help me
> with my lights on the overhead. Pilots that have flown the 10 or
> pilots that have flown a lot of other planes I need your advice. That
> includes you Tim and Robin. I want all feedback I won't get my
> feelers hurt. I don't want to punch unnecessary holes in my overhead
> console. I have two configurations below but not limited to these.
> Also, I will make some bezels for the LED's.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280393#280393
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05528_753.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05527_210.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead console configuration |
Sean,
Are those your only lighting on the overhead?
The reason I ask, is that I really like what Geoff did in his overhead. He
has an eyeball type of light used for map/task lighting for each passenger.
He has two of Stein's cockpit lights (B-12) mounted on the forward portion
of the overhead to wash the instrument panel, and one the dome lights that
Van's sells in the front and back seats, and two in the baggage area for
maintenance/cleaning.
I think this strategy of three different types of lighting is pretty
effective.
I'm sure you can talk Geoff into sharing a photo of his installation.
Ironically, he doesn't have one of his own overheads. That project didn't
start until his was almost ready to fly.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 1:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead console configuration
I need some pro-builders, that's all of you on the list, to help me
with my lights on the overhead. Pilots that have flown the 10 or
pilots that have flown a lot of other planes I need your advice. That
includes you Tim and Robin. I want all feedback I won't get my
feelers hurt. I don't want to punch unnecessary holes in my overhead
console. I have two configurations below but not limited to these.
Also, I will make some bezels for the LED's.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280393#280393
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05528_753.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05527_210.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I may send back the Aveoflash eyeballs. They are really cool how they work but
they are big and need protection tape like that on an Iphone screen. I was wondering
too if the rear passengers should have a red light also so the pilot
doesn't get blinded by the white light. I like the input so far, I may still
get two red LED lights from Stein to put on the forward slants on the overhead.
How many lights is too many? I will have two eyebeams two big LED white lights,
two red leds from Stein's AND a baggage light.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280407#280407
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Oh ya, I also might also buy this and cut out the pocket so I can fit it inside
the console and feed it video from a double din from the panel. This way it
won't stick out of the console unless it is being used. Any other ideas on video
screens? I heard some people say they are in the way of the rear passengers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_077RM890W/Valor-RM-890W.html?tp=77
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280409#280409
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Oh ya, I also might also buy this and cut out the pocket so I can fit it inside
the console and feed it video from a double din from the panel. This way it
won't stick out of the console unless it is being used. Any other ideas on video
screens? I heard some people say they are in the way of the rear passengers.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280408#280408
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead console configuration |
Sean here is a picture of what I did. So far I really like the setup.
Each
passenger has there own LED reading light eyeball from Stein. Small but
works good. Those have there own on-off switch next to them. I then have
the
small silver dome lights in the cockpit area, passenger area and then 2
in
the baggage area as my dome lights. Last I have the Blue LED adjustable
lights that I can shine on the panel or turn down to the pilot or
copilot.
Although I do not have a lot of time in the airplane this seems to work
well. I like the idea of putting as many of the lights in the removable
panels so if for some reason a really cool light comes out that you have
to
have you do not have hole to fill in the overhead just replace the panel
insert or fill it and repaint. The only problem I have is I cannot get
my
head sets on the head set holders in the front as planned. The lights I
placed to close in. I had them mounted before I decided to put the head
Set hangar in. All you need to do is move them out as far as possible.
Hope this helps
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 3:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console configuration
Sean,
Are those your only lighting on the overhead?
The reason I ask, is that I really like what Geoff did in his overhead.
He
has an eyeball type of light used for map/task lighting for each
passenger.
He has two of Stein's cockpit lights (B-12) mounted on the forward
portion
of the overhead to wash the instrument panel, and one the dome lights
that
Van's sells in the front and back seats, and two in the baggage area for
maintenance/cleaning.
I think this strategy of three different types of lighting is pretty
effective.
I'm sure you can talk Geoff into sharing a photo of his installation.
Ironically, he doesn't have one of his own overheads. That project
didn't
start until his was almost ready to fly.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 1:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead console configuration
I need some pro-builders, that's all of you on the list, to help me
with my
lights on the overhead. Pilots that have flown the 10 or
pilots that have flown a lot of other planes I need your advice. That
includes you Tim and Robin. I want all feedback I won't get my
feelers hurt. I don't want to punch unnecessary holes in my overhead
console. I have two configurations below but not limited to these.
Also, I will make some bezels for the LED's.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280393#280393
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05528_753.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05527_210.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
That's nice Geoff, I like the switches for the little eyeballs. I want to make
my eyebeams work but don't know where to put them. I'm re-installing the canopy
right now so I can sit inside and see if the eyebeams can move far enough
forward to the panel. I think I will add the eyeballs you have with the switches
for each passenger.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280417#280417
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I really wanted the Aveo's but your experience has started to turn me
off. (... and save me money)
Now I'm leaning toward Stein's lights (2x) front, (2x) rear, 1(x)
baggage. I'm planning to us a off/on-dimmer in the front for each light
and the same thing for the rear seats. That makes a total of four
off/on-dimmers for local control.
But, I'm also planning to install a master (read "Kiddie") switch for
the rear lights. So I can shut them off up front and don't have to
worry about a kid flipping on lights unless I want them to. If I were a
kid, I'd do it just to make dad turn around and slap me... I know how I
thought.
The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
loading/unloading.
2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 2:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
I may send back the Aveoflash eyeballs. They are really cool how they
work but they are big and need protection tape like that on an Iphone
screen. I was wondering too if the rear passengers should have a red
light also so the pilot doesn't get blinded by the white light. I like
the input so far, I may still get two red LED lights from Stein to put
on the forward slants on the overhead. How many lights is too many? I
will have two eyebeams two big LED white lights, two red leds from
Stein's AND a baggage light.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280407#280407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
Has anyone used both red and blue lights enough to have a preference?
I've flown with red but never with blue.
Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
> The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
> 1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
> loading/unloading.
> 2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
> through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
>
I spoke to a couple of flying RV-10 builders and they told me to get a
portable LED light that I can just velcro and use as needed as they have
used their baggage switch less than a hand full of time sin the last 2
years. Just a thought on maybe an easier solution.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
>
> I really wanted the Aveo's but your experience has started to turn me
> off. (... and save me money)
>
> Now I'm leaning toward Stein's lights (2x) front, (2x) rear, 1(x)
> baggage. I'm planning to us a off/on-dimmer in the front for each light
> and the same thing for the rear seats. That makes a total of four
> off/on-dimmers for local control.
>
> But, I'm also planning to install a master (read "Kiddie") switch for
> the rear lights. So I can shut them off up front and don't have to
> worry about a kid flipping on lights unless I want them to. If I were a
> kid, I'd do it just to make dad turn around and slap me... I know how I
> thought.
>
> The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
> 1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
> loading/unloading.
> 2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
> through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 2:07 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
>
>
> I may send back the Aveoflash eyeballs. They are really cool how they
> work but they are big and need protection tape like that on an Iphone
> screen. I was wondering too if the rear passengers should have a red
> light also so the pilot doesn't get blinded by the white light. I like
> the input so far, I may still get two red LED lights from Stein to put
> on the forward slants on the overhead. How many lights is too many? I
> will have two eyebeams two big LED white lights, two red leds from
> Stein's AND a baggage light.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280407#280407
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
I went with the portable LED light velcroed in the baggage area and
it works great.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 6, 2010, at 7:49 PM, Pascal wrote:
> The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
> 1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
> loading/unloading.
> 2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
> through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
>
I spoke to a couple of flying RV-10 builders and they told me to get
a portable LED light that I can just velcro and use as needed as they
have used their baggage switch less than a hand full of time sin the
last 2 years. Just a thought on maybe an easier solution.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 12:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
>
> I really wanted the Aveo's but your experience has started to turn me
> off. (... and save me money)
>
> Now I'm leaning toward Stein's lights (2x) front, (2x) rear, 1(x)
> baggage. I'm planning to us a off/on-dimmer in the front for each
> light
> and the same thing for the rear seats. That makes a total of four
> off/on-dimmers for local control.
>
> But, I'm also planning to install a master (read "Kiddie") switch for
> the rear lights. So I can shut them off up front and don't have to
> worry about a kid flipping on lights unless I want them to. If I
> were a
> kid, I'd do it just to make dad turn around and slap me... I know
> how I
> thought.
>
> The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
> 1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
> loading/unloading.
> 2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
> through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 2:07 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
>
>
> I may send back the Aveoflash eyeballs. They are really cool how they
> work but they are big and need protection tape like that on an Iphone
> screen. I was wondering too if the rear passengers should have a red
> light also so the pilot doesn't get blinded by the white light. I
> like
> the input so far, I may still get two red LED lights from Stein to put
> on the forward slants on the overhead. How many lights is too
> many? I
> will have two eyebeams two big LED white lights, two red leds from
> Stein's AND a baggage light.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280407#280407
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
As I continue down the electrical planning path, is there a maximum
radio stack height for Geoff's panel?
I'm trying to figure out how many items I can fit into the center
section, before I pour into using other areas....
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
Pascal wrote:
>> The baggage light will have its own pair of switches.
>> 1) Local in the baggage compartment to help during
>> loading/unloading.
>> 2) Cockpit switch: So mom can crawl back there in flight and dig
>> through bags for diapers, bottles, and band-aids. :)
> I spoke to a couple of flying RV-10 builders and they told me to get a
> portable LED light that I can just velcro and use as needed as they
> have used their baggage switch less than a hand full of time sin the
> last 2 years. Just a thought on maybe an easier solution.
I'm not a flying '10 builder yet, but I've come to similar conclusions.
Cabin lights are cool but a realistic assessment of how much night
flying I will be doing (and how ofter all 4 seats will be filled when
doing so) leads me to a solution where I have the needed panel/map
lighting fully optimized for use. Cargo lights, dome lighting, backseat
lighting - battery powered, non-permanent mounting, cheap - all seem
like desirable things. Removes questions about battery buss versus
switched buss, breaker versus fuse, switch type, location, dead battery,
cost, etc
Reflecting on my own flying in the Maule:
Almost 50% of my flights over a 6 year period involved daylight takeoffs
and night landings. Most flights were with my 1 regular passenger who
liked to read or do her nails on half of those half night flights.
I have a white dome light and never use it.
On the relatively few instances where I had 3 or 2 or 3 passengers,
practically all flights were daylight. Exactly one flight involved a
full night TO and Landing with extra passengers over 10 years. I
consider night flying much more challenging and I consider extra
passengers challenging. I try not to do both at the same time. When I
do, I move real slow. I've never done a night time departure into low
IMC (but plenty of low IMC arrivals). Not sure that even my well
equipped '10 will tempt me into one of those, but we'll see. A friend
of mine took me (a distracting passenger) on a trip that included a low
IMC departure at night. I was deeply impressed with the extra diligence
he exercised. Thanks for the lesson Frogpond.
The best cockpit light I've used so far is a Ray-o-Vac headlamp with red
and white LEDs and an incandescent light (???). It all looks so
ridiculous with the headphones that I try to remove it before the line
guy gets to the plane, but it works really well.
Bill "it's too cold in the shop to work" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
I'm going to answer my own question regarding red and blue lights with
this from the archives:
*From: * */"jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>/*
*Date: * */Mar 24, 2007/*
*Tim Great info on your cockpit lighting and good timing as I am
making those decisions now for my panel. I recently posed the
question of red versus blue lighting to a friend who is an
ophthalmologist, long time pilot with 6 planes ( C421, C185 on
floats, C150, Pitts, Fuqua jet, Eclipse vlj on order. Must be tough
staying current in all his toys.) Without getting into a discussion
of photoreceptors and how the eye works, his response is "if you are
primarily interested in seeing outside the cockpit go with red
lights. If you are more concerned about reading maps, charts, etc in
the cockpit go with blue lighting." He uses only blue. Jim Berry
40482 Finishing *
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used both red and blue lights enough to have a preference?
> I've flown with red but never with blue.
>
> Bill
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planning |
Phil the upper center radio stack has 10.5" of height and the lower
center stack below the engine controls in my airplane houses the SL-40,
Transponder and the audio panel PSE 9000.
Geoff Combs
N829GW
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Panel Planning
As I continue down the electrical planning path, is there a maximum
radio stack height for Geoff's panel?
I'm trying to figure out how many items I can fit into the center
section, before I pour into using other areas..
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
But that doesn't really provide the answer to ehat YOU should
do...because you may feel either way. ;). I myself am primarily
concerned with seeing outside...as I have to do that to land. So that
conflicts with his having blue, in my case. I just need to make sure
my red is adjusted so I can see switches. Blue wouldn't be bad, I'm
sure, but my biggest goal is maintaining outside vision.
Tim
On Jan 6, 2010, at 8:38 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> I'm going to answer my own question regarding red and blue lights
> with this from the archives:
>
> From: "jim berry"
> Date: Mar 24, 2007
> Tim Great info on your cockpit lighting and good timing as I am
> making those decisions now for my panel. I recently posed the
> question of red versus blue lighting to a friend who is an
> ophthalmologist, long time pilot with 6 planes ( C421, C185 on
> floats, C150, Pitts, Fuqua jet, Eclipse vlj on order. Must be tough
> staying current in all his toys.) Without getting into a discussion
> of photoreceptors and how the eye works, his response is "if you are
> primarily interested in seeing outside the cockpit go with red
> lights. If you are more concerned about reading maps, charts, etc in
> the cockpit go with blue lighting." He uses only blue. Jim Berry
> 40482 Finishing
>
>
> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Has anyone used both red and blue lights enough to have a
>> preference? I've flown with red but never with blue.
>>
>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
Actually it did - I'm going red for the same reasons you stated.
Outside vision is the goal. My switches and screens are lit. Not being
able to see magenta stuff on the chart is tolerable though disconcerting
at times.
Description Unit price Qty Amount
LED Map / Cockpit Light, Red 12VDC
Item# MAPLIGHT-R-12 $44.50 USD 2 $89.00 USD
Hi Stein!
Tim Olson wrote:
> But that doesn't really provide the answer to ehat YOU should
> do...because you may feel either way. ;). I myself am primarily
> concerned with seeing outside...as I have to do that to land. So that
> conflicts with his having blue, in my case. I just need to make sure
> my red is adjusted so I can see switches. Blue wouldn't be bad, I'm
> sure, but my biggest goal is maintaining outside vision.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 6, 2010, at 8:38 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> > wrote:
>
>> I'm going to answer my own question regarding red and blue lights
>> with this from the archives:
>>
>> *From: * */"jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net <http://qwest.net>>/*
>>
>> *Date: * */Mar 24, 2007/*
>>
>> *Tim Great info on your cockpit lighting and good timing as I am
>> making those decisions now for my panel. I recently posed the
>> question of red versus blue lighting to a friend who is an
>> ophthalmologist, long time pilot with 6 planes ( C421, C185 on
>> floats, C150, Pitts, Fuqua jet, Eclipse vlj on order. Must be
>> tough staying current in all his toys.) Without getting into a
>> discussion of photoreceptors and how the eye works, his response
>> is "if you are primarily interested in seeing outside the cockpit
>> go with red lights. If you are more concerned about reading maps,
>> charts, etc in the cockpit go with blue lighting." He uses only
>> blue. Jim Berry 40482 Finishing *
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>>> >
>>>
>>> Has anyone used both red and blue lights enough to have a
>>> preference? I've flown with red but never with blue.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
We have a trip scheduled April 1-5 to Avila Beach, CA. Would love to find a spot
to stick the 10 during that time. Also recommendations as to which airport,
San Luis Co, Oceano Co, or Santa Maria, would be best to put into.
Any builds going on??? Would be great to stop by and ck out some projects.
Also recommendations as to places to fly, hike, etc.
Thanks, Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280466#280466
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQogDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Phil,
See www.papilio.com for their catalog of decal supplies. They have metallic, glow in the dark, holographic and back-lit media. While some of these are for background effects, I would think by doing a reverse or negative printing you could get labels were the letters would be metallic, or whatever. I have used some of their standard black and white decal material for labels. It is very durable stuff. I think maybe Robin has used them also.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280471#280471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the
wings on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the
flanges of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a
less than acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop
head (via punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from
the spar flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my
lesson, I tape the jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the
spar/rib. I easily squeeze the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls
it back into place. However, I realize when I 'm done that the
"cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of the spar flange. Left a nice
little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange (top flange--didn't count
exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7 ribs from the inboard
most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on aluminum--I know now.
Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans does anybody have any
suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I leave it alone?
Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite wheel and
remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for
doing it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Gluing on the overhead console. I went overboard with the weights even though
the console fits good on the canopy.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280551#280551
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05530_204.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05529_164.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Have you called Van's to see what they say?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has opinions
and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job and hold
up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Yes, did it right after I posted it on here. Decided I couldn't wait.
Basically, Scott said it wasn't a big deal. The flange on the main wing
spar doesn't provide much structural support--mainly an attach point for the
skins. He recommended I use a scotch-brite wheel and remove the "nip" . As
long as I retain the minimum edge clearance on the hole it's not a big deal.
That being said, I immediately went out and fixed it. Now all I need to do
is put a little primer over where I removed the alodine finish. There's a
spot along the rear edge of the spar flange now about 1/4" long and maybe
1/8" max depth where I ground it out and smoothed/cleaned it.
Another one of those WHEW!!! moments. What was I thinking??? Oh well, it's
fixed.
Thanks,
Bill
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
> Have you called Van's to see what they say?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01:35:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has opinions
and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job and hold
up.
>
I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what you are
asking about. So far, so good. I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay. Still building, though. I've found
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily. Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Yep, call Van's. However, my guess is you'll be OK. I think the fix would be
something along the lines of stop drilling the "cut" and the filing it smooth,
possibly to the point of making a notch similar to what we all did back on the
tailcone longerons. But don't do anything until talking to Van's.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280562#280562
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm using it only with Alodine underneath. The product doesn't have any
chromates to prevent corrosion, so it basically serves as an barrier
between metal surfaces and moisture/air. I'd like to treat the aluminum
with a preventative chemical, so that's the reason I alodine underneath.
Generally speaking though, I'm using a higher-end primer (Dupont
Variprime). I only use the Alodine/Rust-oleum combo on pieces that are
too small to justify a batch of Variprime and the effort to clean
everything up.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: JHearnsberger [mailto:jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Hey DJ..
Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater. No need to get them
hot, just warm for a while.
It'll setup quickly and be hard as nails. Then you can build on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dj Merrill [mailto:deej(at)deej.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Can I use this?
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
>
I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what
you are
asking about. So far, so good. I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay. Still building, though. I've found
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily. Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two
ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988
>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Glad to hear it. I didn't know.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 7, 2010, at 13:19, "Bill and Tami Britton"
wrote:
> >
>
> Yes, did it right after I posted it on here. Decided I couldn't wait.
>
> Basically, Scott said it wasn't a big deal. The flange on the main
> wing spar doesn't provide much structural support--mainly an attach
> point for the skins. He recommended I use a scotch-brite wheel and
> remove the "nip" . As long as I retain the minimum edge clearance
> on the hole it's not a big deal.
>
> That being said, I immediately went out and fixed it. Now all I
> need to do is put a little primer over where I removed the alodine
> finish. There's a spot along the rear edge of the spar flange now
> about 1/4" long and maybe 1/8" max depth where I ground it out and
> smoothed/cleaned it.
>
> Another one of those WHEW!!! moments. What was I thinking??? Oh
> well, it's fixed.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:52 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
>
>>
>> Have you called Van's to see what they say?
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> ---
> ---
> ---
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:35:00
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Any primer is better than no primer, but I think you will be disappointed
with a non-sealing primer like the one you suggest.
Considering the prep is the same, and is the majority of the work, why not
use something worthwhile? A quality epoxy primer like PPG DP40LF is
exceptionally durable and easy for the amateur painter. It is widely
available at automotive paint suppliers.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job
and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/07/2010 03:47 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater. No need to get them
> hot, just warm for a while.
Thanks! Nice tip.
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
You want to use a acid etching primer unless you want to acid etch first
them alodine then prime. Napa has a Acid Etching primer that is in rattle
can and works well. There are numerous ones on the market I went with the
Napa one and it works just fine.
John G. Cumins
40864
Emp in priming mode and yes I won the primer war
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job
and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Bottom line:- Don't sweat it, almost anything is better than nothing... a
nd if you keep the plane inside the vast majority of the time,,,, nothing i
s just fine.- Unless, of course, you want your son to be able to give the
plane to his son.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 1/7/10, Perry, Phil wrote:
From: Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Date: Thursday, January 7, 2010, 12:47 PM
Hey DJ..
Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater.- No need to get them
hot, just warm for a while.
It'll setup quickly and be hard as nails.- Then you can build on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dj Merrill [mailto:deej(at)deej.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Can I use this?
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
>
--- I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what
you are
asking about.- So far, so good.- I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay.- Still building, though.- I've foun
d
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily.- Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
--- You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two
ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988
>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Looking at the pics it didn't look too deep. Glad Vans didn't see an issue with
it. One suggestion would be to stop drill the gouge if it isn't all buffed out.
You don't want a crack to develop which wraps around to the front of the spar.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280588#280588
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
| From: | "David Shelton" <SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com> |
Scott is correct that motorcycle and GA have similar fatality rates. I checked
statistics from the NTSB and NHTSA and found that motorcycles are actually a little
safer than GA on an hourly basis.
General Aviation: 1.427 fatalities per 100,000 hours (http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/Table10.htm).
Motorcycles: 0.94 fatalities per 100,000 hours (http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pubs/809908.PDF)
*The nhtsa listed the motorcycle fatality rate as 26.8 fatalities per 100 million
miles. I converted the units to hours, using the DOT average automobile speed
of 35mph. 26.8 fatalities per 100 million miles = 26.8 fatalities per 2.857
million hours (100 million miles divided by 35mph) = 0.94 fatalities per 100,000
hours.
The truth is that both activities are dangerous and we need to be careful when
in an airplane or on a motorcycle. A lot of pilots have motorcycles (19.4% according
to AOPA readership survey) and they aren't any more crazy than the ones
who are terrified of them.
Believe it or not, but I'm not a motorcycle enthusiast. I don't have a favorite
bike and I don't own a riding magazine, poster or calendar. I don't belong to
a riding club and rarely ride for fun. Heck, I prefer to drive my Chevy Astro
when it's available. I started riding motorcycles because my airplane doesn't
drive to my favorite restaurant, beach, state park, convention, museum or friends
house. I carry a motorcycle in my composite belly pod so I can land at any
little airport in the world and hit the roads in about 2 minutes... problem
solved!
I've got all the freedom and utility of a roadable airplane and my vehicle combination
takes me anywhere I please. I don't have to find airports with rental
cars, compare rates or make a reservation. I don't have to arrive during business
hours or top off the tank on my way back. I can ride into town on a whim or
try a new restaurant during my fuel stop. Every landing is another opportunity
to explore and enjoy local sites.
I'm not a motorcycle fan but I love flying and I've found plenty of reasons to
bring a bike along. -David
PS - I love that pic of your son in the drink!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280589#280589
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bikeinpod_508.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Hi Bill,
I can't comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another "lesson
learned" to your issue. I don't know what Van's is going to say. Worse
case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but I'm guessing you
won't need to do that.
Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there will
be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside the rivet
tail that you're going to knock out. Many times with thin pieces of
aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on both sides of
it, so simply punching it out without backing will result in deformed metal
- as you've seen. Placing a bucking bar or other heavy piece of metal
beside the rivet tail when driving it out makes it both easier, cleaner and
stops deformation.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
Stein Bruch
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the wings
on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the flanges
of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a less than
acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop head (via
punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from the spar
flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the
jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze
the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I
realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of
the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange
(top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans
does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I
leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite
wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for doing
it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
I see that you are a statistics guy and that makes good sense=2C but the on
e thing you have not confessed to us is that you are required to wear a hel
met when on a motorcycle and because of that=2C your ultimate goal is to ha
ve an excuss to wear that fighter pilot helmet in your plane and also while
on your motorcycle.
Confess!
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
> From: SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Thu=2C 7 Jan 2010 15:11:43 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Scott is correct that motorcycle and GA have similar fatality rates. I ch
ecked statistics from the NTSB and NHTSA and found that motorcycles are act
ually a little safer than GA on an hourly basis.
>
> General Aviation: 1.427 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours (http://www.ntsb.g
ov/aviation/Table10.htm).
>
> Motorcycles: 0.94 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours (http://www-nrd.nhtsa.do
t.gov/Pubs/809908.PDF)
>
> *The nhtsa listed the motorcycle fatality rate as 26.8 fatalities per 100
million miles. I converted the units to hours=2C using the DOT average aut
omobile speed of 35mph. 26.8 fatalities per 100 million miles = 26.8 fata
lities per 2.857 million hours (100 million miles divided by 35mph) = 0.9
4 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours.
>
> The truth is that both activities are dangerous and we need to be careful
when in an airplane or on a motorcycle. A lot of pilots have motorcycles (
19.4% according to AOPA readership survey) and they aren't any more crazy t
han the ones who are terrified of them.
>
> Believe it or not=2C but I'm not a motorcycle enthusiast. I don't have a
favorite bike and I don't own a riding magazine=2C poster or calendar. I do
n't belong to a riding club and rarely ride for fun. Heck=2C I prefer to dr
ive my Chevy Astro when it's available. I started riding motorcycles becaus
e my airplane doesn't drive to my favorite restaurant=2C beach=2C state par
k=2C convention=2C museum or friends house. I carry a motorcycle in my comp
osite belly pod so I can land at any little airport in the world and hit th
e roads in about 2 minutes... problem solved!
>
> I've got all the freedom and utility of a roadable airplane and my vehicl
e combination takes me anywhere I please. I don't have to find airports wit
h rental cars=2C compare rates or make a reservation. I don't have to arriv
e during business hours or top off the tank on my way back. I can ride into
town on a whim or try a new restaurant during my fuel stop. Every landing
is another opportunity to explore and enjoy local sites.
>
> I'm not a motorcycle fan but I love flying and I've found plenty of reaso
ns to bring a bike along. -David
>
> PS - I love that pic of your son in the drink!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280589#280589
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/bikeinpod_508.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas,
Antarctica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | "2369488" <smarshall(at)amsafe.com> |
Thanks for the interest in our airbag kits.
Whether the kit is STC'd or going into a light sport aircraft the development programs
are essentially the same. All of our kits under go a complete engineering
development program including dynamic testing (sled test). There are some
common parts but each kit is developed specifically for the individual aircraft
model.
We offer our seatbelt airbag kits through OEMs and a network of service centers
who can sell, install and service our kits. We have been collecting information
at various shows (EAA/Fun N Sun) to determine market interest for the homebuilder
market. This is an on-going process and is still being assessed.
Information on AmSafe Seatbelt Airbags can be found at www.gaairbags.com including a list of airbag kits available by aircraft model.
Sincerely,
--------
Stephen Marshall
Dir. Sales/Marketing GA Seatbelt Airbags
AmSafe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280617#280617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | headliner finishing |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I'm actually in the planning stages of headliner material/finishing and wondering
how to finish the edges around windows and edges of doors, etc. What are some
of the methods/materials used instead of just a cut edge?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280620#280620
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: headliner finishing |
Flightline apparently has an edging material for their headliner
material. Just talked to them today.
Bill
rvdave wrote:
>
> I'm actually in the planning stages of headliner material/finishing and wondering
how to finish the edges around windows and edges of doors, etc. What are
some of the methods/materials used instead of just a cut edge?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280620#280620
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and sorting
out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on using
an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but any
posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling... is
that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work to
fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock items
for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the more
expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
Thanks for your help!
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Another trick I have used in the past is to use a slice of eraser (or a
rubber grommet) over the top of the rivet. The rivet squeezer compresses
the rubber against the flange to create a flush joint and then squeezes the
rivet. Can post pics if interested.
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM, flying in Oz
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Sent: Friday, 8 January 2010 11:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
Hi Bill,
I can't comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another "lesson
learned" to your issue. I don't know what Van's is going to say. Worse
case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but I'm guessing you
won't need to do that.
Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there will
be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside the rivet
tail that you're going to knock out. Many times with thin pieces of
aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on both sides of
it, so simply punching it out without backing will result in deformed metal
- as you've seen. Placing a bucking bar or other heavy piece of metal
beside the rivet tail when driving it out makes it both easier, cleaner and
stops deformation.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
Stein Bruch
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the wings
on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the flanges
of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a less than
acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop head (via
punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from the spar
flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the
jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze
the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I
realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of
the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange
(top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans
does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I
leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite
wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for doing
it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Of course, it's mid-summer in Antarctica. What was Houston like on July 7th?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280632#280632
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
TG9sLCB5ZWFoLiBUaGF0J3Mgd2hhdCBJIHdhcyB0ZWxsaW5nIHRoZW0gYXQgd29yay4gSXQgc3Rp
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ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAtTWF0dCBEcmFsbGUsIExpc3QgQWRtaW4uDQpfLT0gICAtLT4g
aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbg0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
There are several 10's flying with the James cowl/plenum. I am but one
of them. I love the appearance, but I do not believe that there is any
evidence that there is any improvement in performance, and there is a
fair amount of evidence that there is a negative impact on cooling and
LOP operations.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and
sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on
using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
>
> Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but
any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling...
is that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work
to fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
>
> And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock
items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the
more expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Getting nose wheel fairing on and off |
Does anyone else think the aft nosewheel fairing is difficult to get on
and off? With the aluminum brackets in place, you have to really open up
the fairing in order to just clear them because the opening is narrower
than the mount points. Once the brackets clear the narrower opening and
are in position, then they are within a quarter inch or so of the
fairing itself, so nothing seems abnormal other than trying to get the
fairing into place.
I can see this being a real difficulty for checking and airing the front
tire. I checked the archives but found no mention of this, so I have to ask!
Also, i am wondering what technique people may have used to build up the
mount points with flox. The best chance for a neat job seems like taking
a syringe and squeezing flox in thru the mount screw holes in the
fairing. Using the technique I used on the main fairings, seems like a
small chance for doing a neat job.
Jae
40533
Fricking Air Box
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We are flying with the James cowl and plenum. Looking at it from a few different
angles build, looks, cost, and performance, I will provide this input.
I dont think the cowl is much different from a build standpoint compared to installing
the Vans cowl; most of the steps are the same. The plenum is basically
a good starting point, installing the plenum will teach you all sorts of fiberglass
fabrication techniques. The James plenum is NOT a bolt on item.
>From a looks perspective, I (again I) think it looks great; the larger, more extended
spinner really sets off the nose.
>From a cost perspective the James cowl forces you to the larger spinner, which
is expensive. The plenum forces you to run turbo injector nozzles to achieve
lower fuel flow rates. This is because the pressure on top of the engine is
lower than the pressure in a stock setup. This means that instead of air flowing
through the injector body breather hole to help atomize the fuel, the air
actually flows back up through the nozzle causing the engine to run rough when
leaned. In some cases the flow is significant enough that you will see fuel
stains around the injectors. You will lay out an additional ~$700 - $800 to get
this setup installed. The costs dont end just with the cowl and plenum, plan
on a significant bump in $, and time.
>From a performance standpoint the James cowl and plenum are far superior. You
will gain whatever number you care to keep telling yourself. In our case we
like to tell ourselves that we gained the 10 knots, which makes it all worth it!!
Bottom line do not believe any of the numbers, they are all hype. Until
someone takes the time to install the two cowl setups on the same aircraft (I
mean same tail number airplane, not model), the numbers are not believable. I
will say that I am fairly confident that it is not a performance penalty. Cooling
performance is uncertain, in our installation we do not have any cooling
problems (we have 260 HP), I know of others who are having cooling problems.
If we were building another I just dont know if we would go down the same road.
I would like to see the results of a James cowl installation without using the
plenum. It seems the only hands down benefit are the looks, and the looks
are a purely personal perception.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280642#280642
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting nose wheel fairing on and off |
I just remove the two hex bolts that hold the front of the brackets
to the fork and slide the whole thing off. Very easy.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 8, 2010, at 1:26 AM, Jae Chang wrote:
Does anyone else think the aft nosewheel fairing is difficult to get
on and off? With the aluminum brackets in place, you have to really
open up the fairing in order to just clear them because the opening
is narrower than the mount points. Once the brackets clear the
narrower opening and are in position, then they are within a quarter
inch or so of the fairing itself, so nothing seems abnormal other
than trying to get the fairing into place.
I can see this being a real difficulty for checking and airing the
front tire. I checked the archives but found no mention of this, so I
have to ask!
Also, i am wondering what technique people may have used to build up
the mount points with flox. The best chance for a neat job seems like
taking a syringe and squeezing flox in thru the mount screw holes in
the fairing. Using the technique I used on the main fairings, seems
like a small chance for doing a neat job.
Jae
40533
Fricking Air Box
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: headliner finishing |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I was over at Carl Froehlich's house just last week and he showed me some nifty
window closeout rings he made himself out of fiberglass. They seem simple enough
to make so that's the route I'm going to take, at least for the windows.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280644#280644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
I am using the standard Vans cowling and cooling plenum from Steve
Dinieri at iflyrv10.com and cooling and oil temps have been perfect.
14 months and 175 hours.
David Maib
40559
Flying
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
-Mark Twain
On Jan 8, 2010, at 12:08 AM, Dan Charrois wrote:
Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my
RV-10 and sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade
from stock Van's parts. One big ticket item I've been contemplating
is the cowling. I intend on using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming
or from BPE depending on budget at the time.
Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online
forums, but any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl
are fairly dated.. there seems to be some information on people's
experiences with the James Aircraft cowls for other RVs, but not much
for their RV-10 offering. I know some people are planning on using
it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it - it is claimed
to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling... is that
measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more
work to fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's
experiences with that? I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to
me - everyone has their own criteria) in terms of cost and time, so
any experiences that anyone has with it would be greatly appreciated!
And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from
Van's stock items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all
ears.... especially for the more expensive items that can be deleted
out of Van's kit.
Thanks for your help!
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
That's a good one. Thanks for that!
The very first trick I learned from Jacob at the Alexander Build Center
for that situation was to use the point of the pick to hold a piece
tightly against another piece while squeezing. You can usually do that
single handed when power squeezing. That's >|| and squeeze.
Bill "kind of wishing he was still doing a lot of riveting" Watson
Ron McGann wrote:
>
> Another trick I have used in the past is to use a slice of eraser (or
> a rubber grommet) over the top of the rivet. The rivet squeezer
> compresses the rubber against the flange to create a flush joint and
> then squeezes the rivet. Can post pics if interested.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Ron
>
> VH-XRM, flying in Oz
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Stein Bruch
> *Sent:* Friday, 8 January 2010 11:20 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I cant comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another lesson
> learned to your issue. I dont know what Vans is going to say. Worse
> case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but Im guessing
> you wont need to do that.
>
> Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there
> will be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside
> the rivet tail that youre going to knock out. Many times with thin
> pieces of aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on
> both sides of it, so simply punching it out without backing will
> result in deformed metal as youve seen. Placing a bucking bar or
> other heavy piece of metal beside the rivet tail when driving it out
> makes it both easier, cleaner and stops deformation.
>
> My 2 cents as usual.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Stein
>
> Stein Bruch
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
> I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the
> wings on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on
> the flanges of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I
> had a less than acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing
> the shop head (via punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib
> flange away from the spar flange a little. So, this is where I
> hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the jaws of a pliers up to prevent
> scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze the pliers on the flange and
> it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I realize when I 'm done
> that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of the spar flange.
> Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange (top
> flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
> ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
> aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact
> Vans does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing
> spar?? Do I leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use
> a scotchbrite wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of
> it? The "nip" is somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for
> doing it. I have learned my lesson.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
> You want to use a acid etching primer unless you want to acid etch first
> them alodine then prime. Napa has a Acid Etching primer that is in rattle
> can and works well. There are numerous ones on the market I went with the
> Napa one and it works just fine.
>
> John G. Cumins
Do you not have to use alodine if you go the acid etching primer route?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280661#280661
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
No, but understand what each chemical does. Acid etching's purpose is to roughen
(and to lessor degree clean) the surface to provide better mechanical adhesion
of the primer. Alodine is a conversion coating that provides corrosion protection
by replacing the oxide layer (ie the ALCLAD layer) that typically gets
removed either by scratches and/or dings or through the prepping process for
priming.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280662#280662
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | headliner finishing |
Dave I made my own headliner out of 2 layers of 6oz fiberglass cloth. I
finished the cabin top in the area I wanted the headliner to go to a
Semi smooth finish. I waxed up the cabin top and PVA released it. 2 layers
of 6oz cloth that I trimmed exactly to my window cutouts which were cut and
trimmed to size. Trimmed head liner to size and fit and covered with auto
headliner material. I then put rubber edge trim on window opening. These
Velcro in and work great. I had about 6hrs total in the headliner pieces
from start to finish. They trim out the window really nice. It took longer
to finish the cabin top out then the headliner parts. You still need to do
some finish on the cabin top no matter which way you go.
FWIW Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 11:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: headliner finishing
I'm actually in the planning stages of headliner material/finishing and
wondering how to finish the edges around windows and edges of doors, etc.
What are some of the methods/materials used instead of just a cut edge?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280620#280620
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
What does Alumiprep do? Is this necessary?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280666#280666
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
Alumiprep is a phosphoric acid etch. It works best if the parts are cleaned
with a good dishwashing soap and water first, rinsed, then dipped in
Alumiprep for about 3 minutes, then rinsed with cold water. The etched
surface should be primed or alodined within 8 hours.
Jack Phillips
#40610 - Wings
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 9:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Can I use this?
What does Alumiprep do? Is this necessary?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280666#280666
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
If it contains chromates or MEK, you don't want it anywhere near your skin, eyes,
or nose.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine on floor &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280672#280672
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: headliner finishing |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I bought the complete RV-10 package from Flightline Interiors. It comes with a
cord-like closeout that you attach with Gel rubber cement.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280675#280675
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
Ok, I give up. I will do it right. I was looking for the easy way out. ;-)
Tell me what all to order. Alumiprep, Alodine, paint sprayer, etc....
Just not the most expensive products. I don't want to break the bank.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280676#280676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Thanks to everyone for the information. As I stated earlier, Scott at Vans
said it wasn't a huge deal. He said to grind or file the area back smooth.
Make sure all the "cut" is gone, smooth it out and move on. I have that
done and need to prime over the exposed aluminum and it will be history.
Thanks for the tips on holding the flanges in place while riveting.
Just yesterday I found what I think is a better way to remove drilled out
rivets. After you get the head drilled out and popped off I used a spring
loaded center punch on the rivet tail to knock it out of the hole. It
provides a more concentrated "blow" on the rivet than a standard
punch/hammer method and I can hold the flange in place while doing this to
prevent metal deformation. Generally it removed the rivet tail in the first
blow.
Thanks again,
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
>
> That's a good one. Thanks for that!
>
> The very first trick I learned from Jacob at the Alexander Build Center
> for that situation was to use the point of the pick to hold a piece
> tightly against another piece while squeezing. You can usually do that
> single handed when power squeezing. That's >|| and squeeze.
>
> Bill "kind of wishing he was still doing a lot of riveting" Watson
>
> Ron McGann wrote:
>>
>> Another trick I have used in the past is to use a slice of eraser (or a
>> rubber grommet) over the top of the rivet. The rivet squeezer compresses
>> the rubber against the flange to create a flush joint and then squeezes
>> the rivet. Can post pics if interested.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> VH-XRM, flying in Oz
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Stein Bruch
>> *Sent:* Friday, 8 January 2010 11:20 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>>
>> Hi Bill,
>>
>> I cant comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another lesson
>> learned to your issue. I dont know what Vans is going to say. Worse
>> case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but Im guessing
>> you wont need to do that.
>>
>> Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there
>> will be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside the
>> rivet tail that youre going to knock out. Many times with thin pieces of
>> aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on both sides
>> of it, so simply punching it out without backing will result in deformed
>> metal as youve seen. Placing a bucking bar or other heavy piece of
>> metal beside the rivet tail when driving it out makes it both easier,
>> cleaner and stops deformation.
>>
>> My 2 cents as usual.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Stein
>>
>> Stein Bruch
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
>> Tami Britton
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>>
>> I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the
>> wings on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the
>> flanges of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a
>> less than acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop
>> head (via punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from
>> the spar flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my lesson,
>> I tape the jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I
>> easily squeeze the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into
>> place. However, I realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers
>> nipped the edge of the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge
>> of the spar flange (top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but
>> outboard about 6 or 7 ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't
>> use pliers on aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I
>> contact Vans does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the
>> wing spar?? Do I leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I
>> use a scotchbrite wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of
>> it? The "nip" is somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
>>
>> Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for
>> doing it. I have learned my lesson.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> * *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
I use a Alumiprep (PPG product) to clean aluminum parts prior to priming.
This is about as easy as it gets. Mix the Alumiprep about 4 to 1 with
water, use a red Scotch Brite pad with the Alumiprep on the parts to clean
them, rinse with water, let dry then prime with a good sealing epoxy primer
like PPG DP40LF. The first parts I primed on my 8A are now 11 years old and
still look the same as the day I primed them.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 9:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Can I use this?
What does Alumiprep do? Is this necessary?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280666#280666
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
A reflection for new builders thinking about swaps and options; One
might think about swap-out options in terms of "where and on what kind
of stuff do I want to do some extra work?"
The kit from Vans is very complete and very well worked out as an obam
flying machine. The early builders solved some issues and the kit is
even more highly evolved. I didn't think that much about this as I've
gone along but I was so impressed by what I saw in the kit and heard
from others, I've generally decided to go with the stock Vans stuff and
haven't been sorry.
Where I've swapped an item or added some after market stuff, it's been
ok. I have some 2D design skills so I'm enjoying laying out my own
panel using Stein blanks... I wish I could extend that joy to coming up
with a paint scheme (it's steal and copy time). I've never worked with
aviation powerplants and didn't want to, so I stayed completely stock
and old school. The only kind of work I was somewhat familiar with and
enjoyed expanding on were the electricals and electronics so I played a
bit there using Faststack and the Aeroeletric list to make it enjoyable.
Even there, the most valuable aids included the Vans wiring diagram
(didn't get the kit, just the plans) and the Vans stock panel (which I
didn't use at all but glad I didn't swap it out).
My empiricist leanings and experiences in high performance sailplanes
makes me suspect of all performance improvements. Van's reputation
suggests a highly efficient design and a frugal implementation resulting
in a very good performing obam aircraft which seems to be the
overwhelming consensus of those that are flying. Staying stock seems
the best way to save money. Keeping it light is probably the best way
to improve aircraft performance though not as much fun to do.
Then of course there's the very personal balance between the joy of
building (add more stuff) versus the joy of flight (do less faster).
Just some thoughts for new folks from someone more than half done.
Bill
Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and
sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on
using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
>
> Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but
any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling...
is that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work
to fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
>
> And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock
items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the
more expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm leaving most of the aluminum in shiny Alclad, because I plan on using Corrosion-X
once it's painted & flying. However, there are always worked over pieces
that need some primer. I use a rattle can of Napa 7220, which is one of many
brands of self-etching primer out there. It contains MEK, so I wear long sleeve
shirts, nitrile gloves, and a real respirator with ventless goggles.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280679#280679
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/08/2010 10:48 AM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> Ok, I give up. I will do it right. I was looking for the easy way out. ;-)
There really isn't one "right" answer. All I do is clean the part with
Denatured Alcohol using an old toothbrush, wipe it down with a rag and
let it dry, and then spray it from the can of Sherwin Williams 988 (also
Napa 7220) self etching primer. This works well for me, and the primer
is still adhering well to parts that I applied it to over 4 years ago.
This was the "easiest" method of priming for me, but the other methods
work well too, and you might find one of them even easier.
Short answer, it doesn't matter what you put on, just put something on
and you'll be fine.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
My system was deburr, scotch bright, prep-all, prime with HVLP using
variprime.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 8, 2010, at 8:48, "JHearnsberger"
wrote:
> >
>
> Ok, I give up. I will do it right. I was looking for the easy way
> out. ;-)
>
> Tell me what all to order. Alumiprep, Alodine, paint sprayer, etc....
>
> Just not the most expensive products. I don't want to break the bank.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280676#280676
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Also, 99.9% of the time, I just drill thru the entire rivet length with
a #43 or #33 drill bit. Then 99% of the time, i get a nice donut hole of
the rivet left. The donut hole weakens the rivets hold, so a pair of
nose pliers can usually take it out easily or a center punch on the
donut ring.
The other 1%, you drill off-center and get a crescent moon or the like
and the yelling really starts! ;)
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm wanting to go with the Barrett Cold Air Induction and (was) planning on using
the James Cowl.
Does Vans sell a cowl for the cold air induction? Is there anyone else out there
who does, or is it something we get to modify on our own if we don't go with
James?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler [mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 6:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
We are flying with the James cowl and plenum. Looking at it from a few different
angles build, looks, cost, and performance, I will provide this input.
I dont think the cowl is much different from a build standpoint compared to installing
the Vans cowl; most of the steps are the same. The plenum is basically
a good starting point, installing the plenum will teach you all sorts of fiberglass
fabrication techniques. The James plenum is NOT a bolt on item.
>From a looks perspective, I (again I) think it looks great; the larger, more extended
spinner really sets off the nose.
>From a cost perspective the James cowl forces you to the larger spinner, which
is expensive. The plenum forces you to run turbo injector nozzles to achieve
lower fuel flow rates. This is because the pressure on top of the engine is
lower than the pressure in a stock setup. This means that instead of air flowing
through the injector body breather hole to help atomize the fuel, the air
actually flows back up through the nozzle causing the engine to run rough when
leaned. In some cases the flow is significant enough that you will see fuel
stains around the injectors. You will lay out an additional ~$700 - $800 to get
this setup installed. The costs dont end just with the cowl and plenum, plan
on a significant bump in $, and time.
>From a performance standpoint the James cowl and plenum are far superior. You
will gain whatever number you care to keep telling yourself. In our case we
like to tell ourselves that we gained the 10 knots, which makes it all worth it!!
Bottom line do not believe any of the numbers, they are all hype. Until
someone takes the time to install the two cowl setups on the same aircraft (I
mean same tail number airplane, not model), the numbers are not believable. I
will say that I am fairly confident that it is not a performance penalty. Cooling
performance is uncertain, in our installation we do not have any cooling
problems (we have 260 HP), I know of others who are having cooling problems.
If we were building another I just dont know if we would go down the same road.
I would like to see the results of a James cowl installation without using the
plenum. It seems the only hands down benefit are the looks, and the looks
are a purely personal perception.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280642#280642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
ShowPlanes has been working on a -10 with our cold air with cowling options and
Bill Genevero at Airflow Systems was talking about doing some design work for
a -10 cowl with cold air. Don't know what the current status of either.
Van's does not have a cowl for the -10 with our cold air as it is not a stock engine
option directly from Lycoming.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
Tulsa, OK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
I'm wanting to go with the Barrett Cold Air Induction and (was) planning on using
the James Cowl.
Does Vans sell a cowl for the cold air induction? Is there anyone else out there
who does, or is it something we get to modify on our own if we don't go with
James?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler [mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 6:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
We are flying with the James cowl and plenum. Looking at it from a few different
angles build, looks, cost, and performance, I will provide this input.
I dont think the cowl is much different from a build standpoint compared to installing
the Vans cowl; most of the steps are the same. The plenum is basically
a good starting point, installing the plenum will teach you all sorts of fiberglass
fabrication techniques. The James plenum is NOT a bolt on item.
>From a looks perspective, I (again I) think it looks great; the larger, more extended
spinner really sets off the nose.
>From a cost perspective the James cowl forces you to the larger spinner, which
is expensive. The plenum forces you to run turbo injector nozzles to achieve
lower fuel flow rates. This is because the pressure on top of the engine is
lower than the pressure in a stock setup. This means that instead of air flowing
through the injector body breather hole to help atomize the fuel, the air
actually flows back up through the nozzle causing the engine to run rough when
leaned. In some cases the flow is significant enough that you will see fuel
stains around the injectors. You will lay out an additional ~$700 - $800 to get
this setup installed. The costs dont end just with the cowl and plenum, plan
on a significant bump in $, and time.
>From a performance standpoint the James cowl and plenum are far superior. You
will gain whatever number you care to keep telling yourself. In our case we
like to tell ourselves that we gained the 10 knots, which makes it all worth it!!
Bottom line do not believe any of the numbers, they are all hype. Until
someone takes the time to install the two cowl setups on the same aircraft (I
mean same tail number airplane, not model), the numbers are not believable. I
will say that I am fairly confident that it is not a performance penalty. Cooling
performance is uncertain, in our installation we do not have any cooling
problems (we have 260 HP), I know of others who are having cooling problems.
If we were building another I just dont know if we would go down the same road.
I would like to see the results of a James cowl installation without using the
plenum. It seems the only hands down benefit are the looks, and the looks
are a purely personal perception.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280642#280642
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
In talking with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at OSH, the advice I was given was
to use the Van's cowl for the BPA Cold Air Induction. The consensus was that
it was the lesser of the evils, so to speak, to modify.
Also, Rod Bower (http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com) sells at scoop that makes using his alternative air and the Barrett Cold Air Induction easier to accommodate. In looking at his site, it appears that he just came out with a mod to accommodate his alternative air for vertical induction too. His solution is much more elegant than the one that Vans sells.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
I'm wanting to go with the Barrett Cold Air Induction and (was) planning on using
the James Cowl.
Does Vans sell a cowl for the cold air induction? Is there anyone else out there
who does, or is it something we get to modify on our own if we don't go with
James?
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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PT09PT09PT09DQoNCg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
Also called 'aluminum bright' in hardware stores ..... and
it can be brushed on besides dipping.
Linn
Jack Phillips wrote:
>
> Alumiprep is a phosphoric acid etch. It works best if the parts are cleaned
> with a good dishwashing soap and water first, rinsed, then dipped in
> Alumiprep for about 3 minutes, then rinsed with cold water. The etched
> surface should be primed or alodined within 8 hours.
>
>
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610 - Wings
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
> Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Can I use this?
>
>
>
> What does Alumiprep do? Is this necessary?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280666#280666
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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Cg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Don,
I live in SLO and hangar at SBP. I have large hangar (on the
west side) I am not sure if it will accommodate 2 -10's but we can give
it a try. SBP is currently building a new terminal on the east side so
any parking greater than 2 hours requires prior approval. That includes
outdoor transient parking. I suggest if you want to park at SBP then
arrange an outdoor spot and then coordinate with me once in town. I bet
we can fit them in. I travel 50% of the time so you may have the hangar
to yourself. Also of note, we do have commercial travel out of SBP so
access can be a PINA. Ask about access in/out procedures when/if you
schedule transient.
There is another -10 on the field that is a few weeks away from
first flight. That builder is Jearl Strickland. So 2 -10 and several
other RV's. Plus lots of other aviation. I just landed 2 hours ago from
Las Vegas to see an AWAX doing T & G as SBP. That was something to see
with a early steep left bank set off against the rolling green hills and
perfectly clear blue skies wearing a T-Shirt in January. Sorry fella's!
To answer your question Santa Maria is too far and Oceano is a
really small but wonderful airport. They are extremely coastal so it can
be fogged in while clear else ware. Expect no services at Oceano but a
good Mexican food right around the corner. SBP is your best choice for
full service, rent a cars and greater aviation activities etc...
Too many great places to hike, bike, surf, fly etc... to mention
now. Give me a call if you have any additional Q's.
Robin
805-801-8550
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 7:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Travel
We have a trip scheduled April 1-5 to Avila Beach, CA. Would love to
find a spot to stick the 10 during that time. Also recommendations as
to which airport, San Luis Co, Oceano Co, or Santa Maria, would be best
to put into.
Any builds going on??? Would be great to stop by and ck out some
projects.
Also recommendations as to places to fly, hike, etc.
Thanks, Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280466#280466
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Just back in town.
Yes I did use them for laser color on clear water transfer. Turned out
GREAT! And really simple however Stein can print 4 color process and I
am told it's more UV resistant and durable than what I used. His price
is something like $20/sheet and you can fit A Lot of graphics on a
single sheet if you plan right. I see zero issues with the way I did
mine and don't expect any fading or other problems for a very long time
(I hangar N110EE) so both work well and are really affordable and a good
choice for labeling.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 8:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Overhead console configuration
Phil,
See www.papilio.com for their catalog of decal supplies. They have
metallic, glow in the dark, holographic and back-lit media. While some
of these are for background effects, I would think by doing a reverse or
negative printing you could get labels were the letters would be
metallic, or whatever. I have used some of their standard black and
white decal material for labels. It is very durable stuff. I think maybe
Robin has used them also.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280471#280471
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You first need to consider your need. Are you near salt water? Other
corrosive atmosphere? If so, maybe alumiprep etch, alodine, 2 part
epoxy primer is appropriate. Especially if you are aiming at 50 year
or more life to your project. If you are like some of us...in
Aridzona, over 60, no heirs gonna get their paws on it, a 20 year life
is plenty and with out corrosive air, the Nappa/Sherwin Williams
self-etching primer in rattle cans, over a clean, lightly scuffed
alclad on metal to metal joints is more than enough priming.
Some certified planes were built with no primer at all on the interior
and only had polished aluminum exterior with a few trim stripes, over
60 years ago and are still flying. So it just depends.
On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 8:48 AM, JHearnsberger
wrote:
>
> Ok, I give up. I will do it right. I was looking for the easy way out. ;-)
>
> Tell me what all to order. Alumiprep, Alodine, paint sprayer, etc....
>
> Just not the most expensive products. I don't want to break the bank.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280676#280676
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Flip your shop upside down and put it on the other side of the world where
it is now summer. You wouldn't be able to even go outside for more than a f
ew minutes in their winter.
If you work faster you will generate friction with the air around you=2C ge
nerating heat and you will also finish your project faster than the rest of
us.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Date: Thu=2C 7 Jan 2010 14:33:28 -0800
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow=92s Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas=2C Antarct
ica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop=2C but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted=2C vented=2C and wired
=2C
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank=2C and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... =3B-)
-Dj
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/08/2010 03:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> If so, maybe alumiprep etch, alodine, 2 part
> epoxy primer is appropriate. Especially if you are aiming at 50 year
> or more life to your project. If you are like some of us...in
> Aridzona, over 60, no heirs gonna get their paws on it, a 20 year life
> is plenty and with out corrosive air, the Nappa/Sherwin Williams
Hi Kelly,
Curious, where did you find these lifetime figures for the different
priming methods? Can you point me at a web page or something? I'd like
to do a little more research into this.
Thanks!
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
I had one of those certified airplanes - a 1947 Cessna 140 which I owned
from 1998 to 2002. No priming of any kind and no corrosion after 55 years
of service, including many years tied down on the North Carolina coast.
Convinced me that primers just add weight and little else. I'm building my
-10 with alodining but no priming. Jonathon Bryant is building his nearby
with every surface primed. As soon as I get my wings built up through the
leading edges riveted to the spars (which is where he is) we will weigh my
wings and his with the same scales to see if the weight savings is
noticeable, and we'll post the results here on the forum.
(We needed a good primer war - haven't had one in a long time) Let the
flames begin!
Jack Phillips #40610
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Can I use this?
You first need to consider your need. Are you near salt water? Other
corrosive atmosphere? If so, maybe alumiprep etch, alodine, 2 part
epoxy primer is appropriate. Especially if you are aiming at 50 year
or more life to your project. If you are like some of us...in
Aridzona, over 60, no heirs gonna get their paws on it, a 20 year life
is plenty and with out corrosive air, the Nappa/Sherwin Williams
self-etching primer in rattle cans, over a clean, lightly scuffed
alclad on metal to metal joints is more than enough priming.
Some certified planes were built with no primer at all on the interior
and only had polished aluminum exterior with a few trim stripes, over
60 years ago and are still flying. So it just depends.
On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 8:48 AM, JHearnsberger
wrote:
>
> Ok, I give up. I will do it right. I was looking for the easy way out. ;-)
>
> Tell me what all to order. Alumiprep, Alodine, paint sprayer, etc....
>
> Just not the most expensive products. I don't want to break the bank.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280676#280676
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Last night decided that Houston is the best "coat city" in the country.
People don't spend money on coats here, so there's not a whole lot of
fashion when it gets cold.
You see coats coming out of the closet that haven't seen daylight since
1973. Butterfly collars, sheep skins on the outside and wool on the
inside. You name it. One guy reached into his pocket the other day and
found a receipt from 1981. (Okay not really, but you get the idea.) J
There are other folks who are wearing coats that fit perfectly when they
were 18 years old in Nebraska, but not so well at 42 in south Texas.
It's funnier around here than you can ever imagine.
Just this afternoon, I shut off water to two houses on our street who
busted water pipes. I'm sure their owners will be upset when they get
home, but hopefully I saved them a little cleanup work and a smaller
water bill too.
I might make another drive down the street to see if I can pick up a few
more broken pipes.
Phil
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com]
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 2:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Flip your shop upside down and put it on the other side of the world
where it is now summer. You wouldn't be able to even go outside for more
than a few minutes in their winter.
If you work faster you will generate friction with the air around you,
generating heat and you will also finish your project faster than the
rest of us.
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 14:33:28 -0800
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas,
Antarctica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are pretty pricey for me. I'm going
to buy a gallon of Boeshield, cut it with a suitable solvent
.... which I haven't figured out exactly what that is ....
and spray it in place of the high priced stuff.
Linn
johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> I'm leaving most of the aluminum in shiny Alclad, because
> I plan on using Corrosion-X once it's painted & flying.
> However, there are always worked over pieces that need
> some primer. I use a rattle can of Napa 7220, which is
> one of many brands of self-etching primer out there. It
> contains MEK, so I wear long sleeve shirts, nitrile
> gloves, and a real respirator with ventless goggles. John
>
>
> -------- #40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon.
> Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280679#280679
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | christopher johnston <cjohnston(at)popsound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
So is there anyone who is using the James cowl without the plenum?
after a bit of a building hiatus, I'm staring at the James plenum on
the shelf and I'm not getting warm fuzzies. I've already fitted the
James cowl, so I'm pretty much tied to that, but I haven't really
poked at it to see if I could make the standard baffling work. Also,
after gaining some experience with maintaining a flying airplane, I
can definitely tell that having an extra thing to pull off the engine
before I can get at the top of it would become a bummer pretty
quickly... Thoughts anyone?
cj
On Jan 8, 2010, at 11:40 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Recent update to my site to include James Cowl & Plenum experience.
> Bottom line for me is I would not do it again if I know what I know
> now.
> Make sure to read Update & LOP Update at the bottom of the page. I
> will add a Turbo Nozzle page in the coming weeks.
>
> Robin
>
> http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/SJ%20Plenum.htm
>
> =C2
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
> Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 11:03 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
>
> Thanks Bob, et al.
>
> Is Vans cowl honeycomb? How difficult would it be to modify?
>
> I'm a fiberglass virgin. I know just enough to get in serious trouble.
>
> Phil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Fri Jan 08 10:13:34 2010
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
>
>
> In talking with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer at OSH, the advice I
> was given was to use the Van's cowl for the BPA Cold Air Induction.
> The consensus was that it was the lesser of the evils, so to speak,
> to modify.
>
> Also, Rod Bower (http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com) sells at scoop
> that makes using his alternative air and the Barrett Cold Air
> Induction easier to accommodate. In looking at his site, it appears
> that he just came out with a mod to accommodate his alternative air
> for vertical induction too. His solution is much more elegant than
> the one that Vans sells.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
> Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 11:57 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
>
>
> I'm wanting to go with the Barrett Cold Air Induction and (was)
> planning on using the James Cowl.
>
> Does Vans sell a cowl for the cold air induction? Is there anyone
> else out there who does, or is it something we get to modify on our
> own if we don't go with James?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> ~,
> g(MGqz=DF=A2{=7Fnrf
>
> =B7=9B~=89=ED=B2,=DE=D9=CA%=A2=BD4=D3M4}=A7=1Er=8B=AB=89=EA=E7{=07(=BA
=B8=9E 8^E]t.+-=12f=A2=94Z+=BAe,z=D8^1=ABk=A2x=9C=B0=B8=AC=B4W=9A=B6=EA=DE
> =B0=D6=AF=8A=06 =A2=BBhn=BA0=B1=EBazf=A7=C8=B8=AC=B6=EBb'+bz=CB.r=16=AC
.+-R=7F=D2=B9=BB=1C=AE*m=8A=89=C0
> =C8b=BD=E4=9Ej=B7!=0E=8C''=86=9D=EC6=B2=06=BA0=B1=E0=A1j=D1@@=F8h=B6=8B
!j=B7=9A=9D=D9=AEr=19=AEr=19=A8 =E6=A1 =E7=E1=B6=DA=7F=FF=0C0=99=ABk=A2x=9C
> =B1=CA&=FC=D6=AF=8A=06 =A2=B4U=D7B=B2=D8m=B6=9F=FF=C3=0C
&j=DA=E8=9E',r=895=AB=81=ABh =15u=D0=B8=AC=B7=F6=8C=014N4=92X@E9=15
=0CI&z
> =DEj=D7(=9E=D7=A7=B5=A9l=A1=AB=DA=8AV=9B-=EBj=D8^Y=E6=C5=A2=BB=B1
=A8ky=F8m=B6=9F=FF~=8A=EE=9A=C9=9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C=A2hm=B6=9F=FF~=8A=EE=9A
=C9=9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C
> =A2o=DA.+- =89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'Y=E6=D2=8A=D7=93
> =A9=E4=CA=8B=9F=A2=BC=A8=BA=B8=1E=9D=EA=E8=BA=CB.=9A+=B4=C6
=B4:=DA'W=8B=8A=CB@vh=A7j=1A=DE~=1Bm=A7=FF=F0=C3 =9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C
=A2o=DC=A2{k=89=BB
> =8A=89=E1=B6=DA=7F=FF=0C0=99=ABk=A2x=9C=B1=CA&=FD=CA'=B6=B8=9B=BA=D8=A8=9F
=F6o=F7=E8=9E=DF=E9 =EF=DB=A1=DC=86=D9=A5
Chris Johnston (CJ)
Re-recording Mixer
POP Sound
625 Arizona Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.587.1255 (direct)
310.587.1222 (fax)
cjohnston(at)popsound.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
Call me or e-mail me and I will walk you through the process of mating Barrett
with the Van's cowl. Way less work than fighting with the James setup.
Gary Specketer
770-403-3450
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
I'm wanting to go with the Barrett Cold Air Induction and (was) planning on using
the James Cowl.
Does Vans sell a cowl for the cold air induction? Is there anyone else out there
who does, or is it something we get to modify on our own if we don't go with
James?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: jkreidler [mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 6:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
We are flying with the James cowl and plenum. Looking at it from a few different
angles build, looks, cost, and performance, I will provide this input.
I dont think the cowl is much different from a build standpoint compared to installing
the Vans cowl; most of the steps are the same. The plenum is basically
a good starting point, installing the plenum will teach you all sorts of fiberglass
fabrication techniques. The James plenum is NOT a bolt on item.
>From a looks perspective, I (again I) think it looks great; the larger, more extended
spinner really sets off the nose.
>From a cost perspective the James cowl forces you to the larger spinner, which
is expensive. The plenum forces you to run turbo injector nozzles to achieve
lower fuel flow rates. This is because the pressure on top of the engine is
lower than the pressure in a stock setup. This means that instead of air flowing
through the injector body breather hole to help atomize the fuel, the air
actually flows back up through the nozzle causing the engine to run rough when
leaned. In some cases the flow is significant enough that you will see fuel
stains around the injectors. You will lay out an additional ~$700 - $800 to get
this setup installed. The costs dont end just with the cowl and plenum, plan
on a significant bump in $, and time.
>From a performance standpoint the James cowl and plenum are far superior. You
will gain whatever number you care to keep telling yourself. In our case we
like to tell ourselves that we gained the 10 knots, which makes it all worth it!!
Bottom line do not believe any of the numbers, they are all hype. Until
someone takes the time to install the two cowl setups on the same aircraft (I
mean same tail number airplane, not model), the numbers are not believable. I
will say that I am fairly confident that it is not a performance penalty. Cooling
performance is uncertain, in our installation we do not have any cooling
problems (we have 260 HP), I know of others who are having cooling problems.
If we were building another I just dont know if we would go down the same road.
I would like to see the results of a James cowl installation without using the
plenum. It seems the only hands down benefit are the looks, and the looks
are a purely personal perception.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280642#280642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Hello Mr. Marshall
Sorry to sort of hijacking this thread, but it is still an Amsafe inertial seat
belt inquiry.
Today we removed one of our Amsafe inertial reels from my Supercub. It is part
# 4022-1-061, it's about four years old. We installed it (temporary) in our RV-10
that is under construction. The fuselage has been painted inside and out at
this time. Reading other post on the RV forums I've read that to install an
Amsafe inertial real that the 3/8" hole is not used and four # 10 bolts along
with new hard points. The reel that I have mentioned above only has two 1/4" holes
along with the 3/8" hole ( the 3/8" hole is what secures the reel in my Supercub)
. This leads me to believe this reel is not the reel most are using in
their RV-10's. First question is , could this type of reel be used in the RV-10
( we are only interested in the front seat positions)? We are not engineers
but if the structure of this reel is adequate and Van's hard point along with
the 5/16" supplied will hold a non inertial reel belt, I do not see why it will
not hold the above reel. The belt comes out of the reel almost in the same
position it would on a straight belt (non reel) system, ie. in line. With a standard
belt it would not be as tight other than when a pilot nows he is about
to have a bad landing so the fetch up would be quite sever there.
We are too far along to modify our canopy and if we don't find an alternative we
will have to go with the standard belts.
My last question (for now at least) is if the above could work, this part # belt
would have to have the two "V" web lengthened about a foot to clear the headrest(
one web on each side) . Is this something that could be done?
Hopefully I'm making myself understood.
Thanks Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280753#280753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Something to checkout |
This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment today and
met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is his web
address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
safety in general.
www.genspruance.com
Rick Sked
N246RS
Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas today ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Something to checkout |
I don't think they make men like that any more. We were at OSH a few years
ago looking at the U-2 and my grandson commented to the gentleman standing
next to us wearing a SR71 hat that he liked that plane. Turned out that he
was Pat Halloran, retired Solicitor General of the Airforce. He had flown
both U-2's and SR71's. We had a very pleasant conversation. Great man!
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 7:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Something to checkout
This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment today and
met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is his web
address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
safety in general.
www.genspruance.com
Rick Sked
N246RS
Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas today ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Magneto Rebuild question |
| From: | "Stephen Blank,DDS" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com> |
We are rebuilding our 1952 C-170b mags..... how does the bearing race get
removed from the central shaft? The rebuild kit has a new one, but their
seems to be a metal sleeve above the race that does not want to simply slide
off. Any tips? Heating or just pull harder???? Thanks!
Steve RV-10 Tail Cone almost done......
Stephen G. Blank, DDS
184 NW Central Park Plaza
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986
772-878-7348 office
772-475-5556 cell
On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment today and
> met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is his web
> address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
> Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
> fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
> safety in general.
>
> www.genspruance.com
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
>
> Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas today ;)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | trimming front ramps with prop |
Before I spend too much time on this any suggestions how to get the
bottom cowl on to trim the front air ramps? I seem to be having an issue
with getting it to fit behind the spinner and over the air ramps.
thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Rebuild question |
You can heat the assy and use freezing spray on the race
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 8, 2010, at 18:55, "Stephen Blank,DDS"
wrote:
> We are rebuilding our 1952 C-170b mags..... how does the bearing
> race get removed from the central shaft? The rebuild kit has a new
> one, but their seems to be a metal sleeve above the race that does
> not want to simply slide off. Any tips? Heating or just pull
> harder???? Thanks!
>
> Steve RV-10 Tail Cone almost done......
>
> Stephen G. Blank, DDS
> 184 NW Central Park Plaza
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34986
>
> 772-878-7348 office
> 772-475-5556 cell
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment
> today and
> met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is
> his web
> address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young.
> His
> Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
> fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
> safety in general.
>
> www.genspruance.com
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
>
> Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas todayes Navigator to browse
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Something to checkout |
Amazing!! When I was a 20 year old Warrant Officer Flight Candidate
at Fort Wolters, TX, in 1968, Gen. Spruance gave us a lecture about
surviving a crash. I am astounded that he is still with us. His story
was amazing and he was an amazing speaker. Fantastic!
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 8, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Rick wrote:
This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment
today and
met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is
his web
address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
safety in general.
www.genspruance.com
Rick Sked
N246RS
Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas today ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Based on inspections and maintenance work I've done on aircraft dating
back to the post WWII boom through the mid-70s. Nothing scientific,
just observations. Cessna especially, did almost no interior priming.
Only those aircraft based on the coasts are likely to show corrosion
to any extent. I owned a '53 C170B that lived its early life in Long
Beach where it got some light corrosion. After that nothing changed
over the years I owned it(23) and it currently is registered in OR.
That doesn't mean all aircraft will escape corrosion in that time
frame. I'm just saying that if you are aiming for multiple decades
corrosion free, you want to do full treatment. If on the other hand
you aren't near a coast and only want the plane to last as long as you
have a medical, then no point in wasting time and money on it. It may
last 50 years with no primer...but it may not, especially if it sits
out on the ramp in the weather.
On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 1:43 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 01/08/2010 03:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> If so, maybe alumiprep etch, alodine, 2 part
>> epoxy primer is appropriate. Especially if you are aiming at 50 year
>> or more life to your project. If you are like some of us...in
>> Aridzona, over 60, no heirs gonna get their paws on it, a 20 year life
>> is plenty and with out corrosive air, the Nappa/Sherwin Williams
>
> Hi Kelly,
> Curious, where did you find these lifetime figures for the different
> priming methods? Can you point me at a web page or something? I'd like
> to do a little more research into this.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: headliner finishing |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
aerosport1 wrote:
> Dave I made my own headliner out of 2 layers of 6oz fiberglass cloth. I
> finished the cabin top in the area I wanted the headliner to go to a
> Semi smooth finish. I waxed up the cabin top and PVA released it. 2 layers
> of 6oz cloth that I trimmed exactly to my window cutouts which were cut and
> trimmed to size. Trimmed head liner to size and fit and covered with auto
> headliner material. I then put rubber edge trim on window opening. These
> Velcro in and work great. I had about 6hrs total in the headliner pieces
> from start to finish. They trim out the window really nice. It took longer
> to finish the cabin top out then the headliner parts. You still need to do
> some finish on the cabin top no matter which way you go.
>
> FWIW Geoff
>
>
> --
Geoff, I don't quite understand about the fiberglass cloth but what kind of rubber
edge trim did you use? It looks great and seems to match the Mcmaster Carr
window seal. Also does your cloth fit under the door seals?
Dave
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280769#280769
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Rebuild question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
You are dealing with a certified aircraft and engine. You need an A&P
with the correct tools and manual to do what you say you are doing.
Even an A&P that hasn't done one before, or doesn't have the special
tools and manual cannot legally work on that mag. I'm all for owner
maintenance, but if you don't have the specified tools and A&P
supervision to do the job right, you need to get same pronto. I don't
know if you are dealing with the original Bendix mags or Slick mags.
Mags are not difficult, but they do require some specific tooling and
expertise.
Kelly
ex C170B owner
A&P/IA
On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 6:55 PM, Stephen Blank,DDS wrote:
> We are rebuilding our 1952 C-170b mags..... how does the bearing race get
> removed from the central shaft? The rebuild kit has a new one, but their
> seems to be a metal sleeve above the racethat does not want to simply slide
> off. Any tips? Heating or just pull harder???? Thanks!
>
> Steve RV-10 Tail Cone almost done......
> Stephen G. Blank, DDS
> 184 NW Central Park Plaza
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34986
>
> 772-878-7348 office
> 772-475-5556 cell
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 8, 2010 at 6:47 PM, Rick wrote:
>>
>>
>> This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment today and
>> met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is his
>> web
>> address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
>> Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
>> fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
>> safety in general.
>>
>> www.genspruance.com
>>
>> Rick Sked
>> N246RS
>>
>> Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas todayes Navigator to browse
>> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ====
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Something to checkout |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Here's an hour and a half with him... :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emHSdz0nWLg
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick [mailto:ricksked(at)cox.net]
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 6:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Something to checkout
This slightly off topic but who cares!! I had an eye appointment today
and
met this gentleman who hands me a little $1000 bill. On the back is his
web
address and it turns out he's a retired General, all 93 years young. His
Name is William Spruance and I highly recommend his website for some
fantastic reading and talks he has given regarding aviation safety and
safety in general.
www.genspruance.com
Rick Sked
N246RS
Brrr...chilly 62 degrees here in Vegas today ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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Cl8tPQ0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
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ICAgICAgICAgICAtTWF0dCBEcmFsbGUsIExpc3QgQWRtaW4uDQpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3
dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbg0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
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X19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fXw0KDQpnINyGK0lyeWhpayBrDQrigJEgFCANCl9fX19fX19f
X19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fDQoNCj7IrXZra2rfont/bnJmDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van?
http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | FW: Any Australian RV-10's out there? |
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum and am about to start the empennage. Still
experimenting on the training project, and hoping the aircraft is going to
look a lot better J
I'm planning a trip out to Australia next week and wondering if there are
any flying RV-10's in Perth or Melbourne I could take a look at, in search
of inspiration and guidance?
Best wishes to all for the new year.
Gordon Anderson
RV-10 #41015
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
The AMSAFE belts for the 10 were first considered by myself when I
discovered an AMSAFE reel belt in a Super Cub; I found the right contact at
AMSAFE and they told me that the Super Cub belt would not work ; so began
the process to design a new setup. If you have looked at the setup on
www.inertialbelts.com you see a friend creating the additional hard points
on the inside of the lid. These can be created , perhaps more easily from
the outside; its the same process of marking the holes and drilling with a
hole saw though the external layers but not the interior layers, removing
the foam and creating the hard point. Reinforcing cloth/tape is then applied
across the hard points. then the procedure from the website for the
aluminum blocks applies. AMSAFE wanted the additional hard points and the
structural strength increase. I had some neighbors (consulting engineers)
evaluate the the hardpoints differences and found that the anchor was 5-8
times stronger than the plans approach. Also a consideration is that the
single countersunk screw that the plans callout has no countersunk washer to
spread the load and the single screw with fixed belts "works" the screw in
the fiberglass each time the shoulder strap is loaded. I am unfamiliar with
the bracket that you describe on the Super Cub belt. If you want to discuss,
my phone is 480-626-4048.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 5:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Hello Mr. Marshall
Sorry to sort of hijacking this thread, but it is still an Amsafe inertial
seat belt inquiry.
Today we removed one of our Amsafe inertial reels from my Supercub. It is
part # 4022-1-061, it's about four years old. We installed it (temporary) in
our RV-10 that is under construction. The fuselage has been painted inside
and out at this time. Reading other post on the RV forums I've read that to
install an Amsafe inertial real that the 3/8" hole is not used and four # 10
bolts along with new hard points. The reel that I have mentioned above only
has two 1/4" holes along with the 3/8" hole ( the 3/8" hole is what secures
the reel in my Supercub) . This leads me to believe this reel is not the
reel most are using in their RV-10's. First question is , could this type of
reel be used in the RV-10 ( we are only interested in the front seat
positions)? We are not engineers but if the structure of this reel is
adequate and Van's hard point along with the 5/16" supplied will hold a non
inertial reel belt, I do not see why it will not hold the above reel. The
belt comes out of t!
he reel almost in the same position it would on a straight belt (non reel)
system, ie. in line. With a standard belt it would not be as tight other
than when a pilot nows he is about to have a bad landing so the fetch up
would be quite sever there.
We are too far along to modify our canopy and if we don't find an
alternative we will have to go with the standard belts.
My last question (for now at least) is if the above could work, this part #
belt would have to have the two "V" web lengthened about a foot to clear the
headrest( one web on each side) . Is this something that could be done?
Hopefully I'm making myself understood.
Thanks Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280753#280753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
Hi guys
I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to
peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I
find what is actually included in this kit??
I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Rick
I believe Tim has the inventory sheets on his web site
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 08:45:45
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I saw that at OSH last year and thought it was the coolest thing I saw
at the show. I'm hoping they have it flying my OSH this year and maybe
they can do a demo for the crowd.
I usually find Sonex planes as sexy as women from........ Well never
mind. I might offend some countries.
I just hope they build a 2-place & 4 place with 2 engines and 4 hours of
fuel.
From: Robin Marks [mailto:robin1(at)mrmoisture.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 3:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Jet?
How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van?
http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ammeter shunt physical location |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
All, architecturally, I'm putting my ammeter shunt between the battery and
everything else. Physically, I'm not so sure. I'm considering putting it
near the starter solenoid, as shown in the attached picture, or above that
on the "tilted" part of the firewall.
Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of what you've done? I'm also going
to use an ANL limiter next to the shunt, so it makes sense to me to put
these both on the engine side of the firewall.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Having served in Antarctica, I can say you are comparing Apples and
Oranges. Houston is in the middle of their Winter and Orcadas is in the
middle of a Summer Heat wave. Just wait a month and watch the change.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Flip your shop upside down and put it on the other side of the world
where it is now summer. You wouldn't be able to even go outside for more
than a few minutes in their winter.
If you work faster you will generate friction with the air around you,
generating heat and you will also finish your project faster than the
rest of us.
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 14:33:28 -0800
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas,
Antarctica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine break in period |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
A couple of the highlights:
1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it
for the first 50 hours.
2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time
to a minimum.
It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP)
and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Good to see you back CJ!
A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of
preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter shunt physical location |
| From: | "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com> |
Rob,
I was just working on the connections to the shunt myself. Mine is located on
the cabin side of the firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it
required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I wanted to use the
shunt. Also, it is a more protected location.
It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts don't come with some sort
of cover. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to cover the shunt?
The question that you might first want to ask yourself is what do you want the
shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring diagram shows it in-line with the alternator
output which will indicate the total output of the alternator but nothing else
(it will never show a negative indication). The Dynon diagrams gives three
options of where it could be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends
on whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as negative amps when
the alternator is not on-line (battery supplying all power, such as prior
to engine start) and as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator
is providing to charge the battery.
If you haven't already, you may want to give consideration to the connections from
the battery to the bus with the placement of the shunt.
Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt (pictures), it would be greatly
appreciated and no doubt helpful to many.
Good luck,
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I assume
so).
If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is the
Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side of the
Safety Trim module.
This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend and
was hoping someone may know the answers.
Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis Rodriguez <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must
feel like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles
above the airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How
long is the break in period?
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Good to see you back CJ!
>
> A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine
> start 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine
> running to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it
> with a lot of preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
> B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits
> above the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled
> most controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest
> GA airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at
> full power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> cjay wrote:
>>
>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about
>> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or
>> overhauled engine).
>>
>> A couple of the highlights:
>>
>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>>
>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid
>> ground running time to a minimum.
>> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> cylinder wall and piston rings.
>>
>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow
>> flights around the pattern?
>>
>> cjay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | engine break in period |
Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
in.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period
Good to see you back CJ!
A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of
preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine
break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay
with it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
running time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder
wall and piston rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the
pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The ideal would be to start out with a high time IO-540 to do all of
your phase one work. Then after the first 6-12 months of flying, pull
the engine and overhaul/exchange for a fresh engine.
If your engine hasn't been broken in, ideally you don't do taxi tests,
just one ground run of a minute or two to check for leaks. Or you pay
your engine builder to run the engine 4-5 hours on their test stand to
break it in. If you do taxi tests and such with a fresh/new engine you
risk glazing the cylinder walls making break-in difficult to
impossible. You make get lucky and break in okay inspite of your
ground runs. Key part is don't let cylinders get very hot, and allow
full cool down before any subsequent run.
On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 11:46 AM, cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
= --> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Here's what Lycoming recommends
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1427B.pdf
I just grabbed this off the net but I know Eci has breakin procedures as
well.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: engine break in period
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
> came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the
> engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay
> with it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
> running time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder
> wall and piston rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
> out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the
> pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | engine break in period |
For breakin I did 1.3 hours over the airport at about 24/2400; the best I
could do without running into the Class B and stay near the airport for an
immediate landing. I was operating at 3500 MSL above a TPA of 2500 MSL and
below a class B 4000 MSL. Most of the remainder of the test time was cross
country at 23/2250 at about 12 GPH. CHTs initially were 360-430F and
gradually reduced to about 360F where they went just below 360F or the top
of he green for my definition. I spent about 20+ hours doing points A B C A
with a refuel at C. The current oil consumption on the new certified
Lycoming from Vans is 1 quart every 10 -15 hours. I use a combination of
Phillips XC 20-50 and 25-65.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Luis Rodriguez
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period
Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must feel
like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles above the
airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How long is the break
in period?
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Good to see you back CJ!
>
> A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
> 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
> to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot
> of preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
> B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
> the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
> controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
> airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
> power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> cjay wrote:
>>
>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about
>> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or
>> overhauled engine).
>>
>> A couple of the highlights:
>>
>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>>
>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
>> running time to a minimum.
>> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> cylinder wall and piston rings.
>>
>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow
>> flights around the pattern?
>>
>> cjay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
> in.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> --
I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple
sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee
cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think
this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service
letter that Pascal sent.
For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the
tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis Rodriguez <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Try calling the tower ahead of time. You know, like a week or so or
today. Give them a heads up and ask for a recomendation if they can't
acomodate yours.
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:14 PM, "cjay" wrote:
>
>
> speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine
>> overhaul
>> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I
>> did a full
>> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object
>> for 3 or
>> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances
>> the break
>> in.
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>> --
>
>
> I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about
> constructing a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl)
> held in place with bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with
> taking the cowling on and off. But I think this will only be good
> for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service letter that
> Pascal sent.
>
> For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm
> doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the
> Washington ADIZ.
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter shunt physical location |
Nick Leonard wrote:
>
>
> Rob,
>
> I was just working on the connections to the shunt
> myself. Mine is located on the cabin side of the
> firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it
> required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I
> wanted to use the shunt. Also, it is a more protected
> location.
>
> It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts
> don't come with some sort of cover. Does anyone have a
> suggestion for how to cover the shunt?
Get a can of plasti-dip in your favorite color and brush on
a few coats. It also comes in a spray can, but the coating
will be paint-thick.
>
> The question that you might first want to ask yourself is
> what do you want the shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring
> diagram shows it in-line with the alternator output which
> will indicate the total output of the alternator but
> nothing else (it will never show a negative indication).
> The Dynon diagrams gives three options of where it could
> be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends on
> whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as
> negative amps when the alternator is not on-line (battery
> supplying all power, such as prior to engine start) and
> as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator
> is providing to charge the battery.
As you say, with engine monitors that have alarms, it's good
to have both charge and load current (without the
alternator) available. This places the shunt between the
buss and the battery. I plan on placing mine on the sub-panel.
Linn
>
> If you haven't already, you may want to give
> consideration to the connections from the battery to the
> bus with the placement of the shunt.
>
> Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt
> (pictures), it would be greatly appreciated and no doubt
> helpful to many.
>
> Good luck, Nick
>
> -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
I've missed the step where you do a lot of ground runs and
slow flight in the pattern!
My recommendation is to do one high speed run down the
runway, testing control effectiveness, taxi back, put the
pedal to the metal and go. If you really need to go slow
and taxi a lot .... just minimize it. It'll only take a
little longer to really break in.
If you had an original design that's never flown before,
then testing ground handling is critical and you want to do
that, but the -10 seems to be pretty straight forward
without surprises.
If you're a low time pilot, find an experienced one for the
first flight. Why take a chance on hurting your new baby???
If you want to stay close to the airport (good thing for the
first hour), go high overhead and make big circles,
recording whatever is on your test card. You do have a test
card, don't you???
Linn
Oh yeah .... if you get airborne on the high speed run ....
easy to do .... then just go. I'm not a fan of trying to
get the airplane back on the ground until y9our airspeed and
attitude are under control. MHO, YMMV.
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
May not help, but if you go to the Trio web site you can find (I think it's in
the Pro Pilot manual) how they recommend hooking up auto trim.
Something to keep in mind: should you have a trim runaway you'll need to pull both
the trim and autopilot power, then sort out which one is the problem. For
this reason, I've placed pullable breakers for them side by side, right in front
of the pilot.
But a plus, if the trim switch sticks on, you can pull the trim power, and still
have trim via the autopilot.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280861#280861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
The trutrak auto trim should work fine with the TCW Saftey trim. The
auto trim is wired in right at the pitch servo.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> >
>
> I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I
> assume so).
> If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is
> the Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side
> of the Safety Trim module.
>
> This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend
> and was hoping someone may know the answers.
>
> Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
DJ .....did you move to the east coast??? Darn I would have tried to miss the
ADIZ......you can't even "fall" through that can ya?? How's the 8 doin? No ground
loops happening anymore I hope.
Rick
------Original Message------
From: cjay
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 9, 2010 2:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
> in.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> --
I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple
sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee
cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think
this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service
letter that Pascal sent.
For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the
tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Loehle Wonderfil and Poly Fiber Smooth and Prime, No Bonding. |
I had built up my cowl the old fashioned way with epoxy and microballoons a
nd sanded it level with a profiling bar. This took a lot of work as there a
re not pinholes in the cowl there are meteor impacks and craters in the cen
ter of each Nomex honey comb cell. In the areas where there is no sandwitch
core material on the cowl=2C I filled the pinholes with Loehle Wonderfil.
I also opted to do a one over the entire surface with the wonderfil the mic
ro.
I asked the nice lady=2C Sandy=2C at Loehle whether my remaining half gallo
n of UV Smooth and Prime would conflict with Wonderfil=2C because I had a h
alf gallon left over from the cabin top and the windshield fairing(Which it
worked wonderfully and bonds like gainbusters). I never used the Wonderfil
in the cabin top or windshield faring. Sandy said that is what many guys d
o. The answer was no known conflict.
The Loehle manual says that no sanding is needed post Wonderfil whipe off.
I srayed my UV smooth and Prime today=2C two light coats. When I started sa
nding it was obvious the two material did not bond. Pieces of UV S&P flaked
off. I guess I am the lucky one who found it...difficult to believe I am s
o fortunate.
Just to confirm=2C I scratched the Smooth and Prime so the underlying struc
ture was visible and then applied a strong stream of air from the compresso
r and watched the Smooth and Prime flake off the Cowl.
I think my arms are going to fall off tomorrow. The joy is in the journey!
Hummm?
John Gonzalez
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
Ouch! Hard to believe they will let you do the Phase 1 in that airspace. The
requirement as I know it is that it needs to be over a none congested (on
the ground) area. I need to drive near 1 hour to go to the airport that
qualifies as I am in the Los Angeles area and it sure is congested around
here.
On a separate note- but the same topic my engine builder ran the engine for
1.7 hours- it sure isn't a breakin but I will try to do my flight early
(colder) and do the minimal necessary (read to assure I feel confortable)
with the taxi test etc.. I know Deems had issue in Arizona with an extended
wait in heat to get going and that resulted in issues for him, so I'm am
taking a lesson from Deems and will try to avoid warmer weather as much as
possible, which at the pace I'm going at we might get past the global
warming and enter the ice age again so it wont be an issue anyway.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
>
>
> speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
>> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a
>> full
>> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3
>> or
>> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the
>> break
>> in.
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>> --
>
>
> I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing
> a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with
> bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off.
> But I think this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the
> lycoming service letter that Pascal sent.
>
> For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm
> doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington
> ADIZ.
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota
l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse
trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand
le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha
nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac
k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm
er tomorrow will bring success.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down
in... that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
> I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism
> a total RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could
> design a mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat
> off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on
> the shaft and make the mechanism work. I thought bringing in my
> Saturday night consulting engineer Jack (Daniels) would help but we
> finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hammer tomorrow will bring
> success.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I thought maybe they gave me the wrong sized spring but I was able to unwind(?)
the spring a little to fit the shaft and now works fine.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280881#280881
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are a direct V
ans replacement, and they look WAY better.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Date: Saturday, January 9, 2010, 8:57 PM
-I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a to
tal RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mou
setrap better than this.- After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft
handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mec
hanism work.- I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer
-Jack (Daniels)-would help but we finally gave up tonight.- Maybe a b
igger hammer tomorrow will bring success.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
thanks
From: jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Date: Sat=2C 9 Jan 2010 21:15:39 -0800
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in...
that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9=2C 2010=2C at 8:57 PM=2C Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota
l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse
trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand
le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha
nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac
k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm
er tomorrow will bring success.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door seal question |
| From: | "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net> |
Hi folks...Well, we strayed away from Van's game plan and are paying for it again.
We decided to go with different door seals. Payed 200 bucks for 25 feet of
the stuff and discovered the doors would not shut. [Embarassed] We were concerned
with the quality of the provided seals but mostly the color ( dark cream
to tan?) was not a good match for the interior. We were hoping for something
gray or black. Van's door seals measured 1/2" diameter and about 1/16" thick.
The stuff we bought was 5/8" diam. and about 1/8" thick.
Bone head play I know. Anyone know where we can get something comparable in size
to Van's seal but in a different color? Need something to cover all that nice,
yellow hard glue decorating the edge of our fabric covered doors
:?
Thanks...
I attached a picture of the seals we used
____________________________________________
Walt fuller
W_fuller1(at)verizon.net
Build # 404584
Working on glassing the bottom of the windscreen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280887#280887
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_seals_415.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
You can eliminate the shunt and use a hall effect instead. This is
basically a small coil, thru which the wire passes and measures the
current flow. I plan on using one on the feed to the main bus. This
will tell me the amount of amps I am using. If I lose the main alt, I
can refer to it to load-shed to get under the 20 amps the stby alt can
carry, without discharging the battery. Grand Rapids sells the hall
effect, as does Spruce. I have one on back order from Spruce. The hall
effect works on the Dynon EMS, as well as just about any other
electronic EMS system. You could also have a second one that monitors
the battery charge/ discharge, but I don't think that's necessary with a
dual alternator setup.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door seal question |
The doors are a real bummer in general, make sure they fit well before the
seals than these should make it much easier for you as I believe they form
fit to the doors. http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html
(look for RV-10 door seals)
I used the Vans seals so I can't speak for quality or how well they work.
Best of success with this.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 2:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal question
>
> Hi folks...Well, we strayed away from Van's game plan and are paying for
> it again. We decided to go with different door seals. Payed 200 bucks for
> 25 feet of the stuff and discovered the doors would not shut.
> [Embarassed] We were concerned with the quality of the provided seals but
> mostly the color ( dark cream to tan?) was not a good match for the
> interior. We were hoping for something gray or black. Van's door seals
> measured 1/2" diameter and about 1/16" thick. The stuff we bought was 5/8"
> diam. and about 1/8" thick.
>
> Bone head play I know. Anyone know where we can get something comparable
> in size to Van's seal but in a different color? Need something to cover
> all that nice, yellow hard glue decorating the edge of our fabric covered
> doors
> :?
> Thanks...
> I attached a picture of the seals we used
>
> ____________________________________________
> Walt fuller
> W_fuller1(at)verizon.net
> Build # 404584
>
> Working on glassing the bottom of the windscreen
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280887#280887
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_seals_415.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend bench
run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now well
past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use mineral oil and high
power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but proper break-in should be
much less of a worry.
$.02
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing Up...
At 10:46 AM 1/9/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
>A couple of the highlights:
>
>1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
>2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time
to a minimum.
>
>It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP)
and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
>I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
>cjay
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Robin,
Thanks to you, Deems, and others, for saving me a ton of time and money.
You early pioneers are a godsend to those of us who trail.
I try and re-focus to the KISS concept and sticking to the tried and true.
(and then my mind starts to wander and I contemplate things like "Lambo'ing" the
doors).
Hope to see you again at the "nest".
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280927#280927
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
Hi
Be careful when filing out the slot, do as little as possible. You will get
a little "slop" in the handle movement as the pin can now wiggle a bit in
the slot. I think you want to keep this to a minimum.
I also found that a little white grease goes a long, long way to making the
mechanisms move easily and smoothly. There is a *huge* amount of internal
friction in the mechanism. The grease deals with this effectively - or so I
found. I put it on the tubes, gears and rails etc.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike
Lefever
Sent: January-09-10 11:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
thanks
_____
From: jeff(at)westcottpress.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 21:15:39 -0800
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in...
that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a total
RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a
mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft
handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the
mechanism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer
Jack (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger
hammer tomorrow will bring success.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Matt,
That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to date and
integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight test situation.
I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power for a couple hours
myself? As long as I can maintain good pressure cooling (from the cowl or
makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's closely. Anyone have
any suggestions how to tie the airframe down during for this type of run-up?
cjay
Matt Dralle wrote:
> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend bench
run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now
well past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use mineral oil and high
power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but proper break-in should be
much less of a worry.
>
> >
> >
> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
> >
> > A couple of the highlights:
> >
> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
> >
> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
> >
> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
> >
> > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
cjay wrote:
>
>
> Matt,
>
> That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that
> is untested to date and integrated in an untested
> airframe, which is not the ideal flight test situation.
But it's the most common.
> I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power
> for a couple hours myself? As long as I can maintain
> good pressure cooling (from the cowl or makeshift cooling
> scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's closely.
This is the problematic part .... you just can't get enough
air through the engine running at high power on the ground.
Anyone
> have any suggestions how to tie the airframe down during
> for this type of run-up?
If you're bound and determined ..... I'd tie a bridle to the
steps and around something that won't move.
I really hope you decide to just fly it like most do.
Linn
>
> cjay
>
>
> Matt Dralle wrote:
>> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport,
>> I had them extend bench run-in to about 11.5 hours.
>> Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now well
>> past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use
>> mineral oil and high power settings for the first 50
>> flight hours, but proper break-in should be much less
>> of a worry.
>>
>>>
>>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the
>>> too distant future) I came across an old reprint from
>>> an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in
>>> period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>>>
>>> A couple of the highlights:
>>>
>>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the
>>> break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50
>>> hours.
>>>
>>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible
>>> and avoid ground running time to a minimum.
>>>
>>> It goes into a description of the importance of high
>>> mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above
>>> helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
>>> rings.
>>>
>>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when
>>> you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit
>>> of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>>>
>>> cjay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
>>> 80820#280820
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
How about sending it to one of the good engine ohvers and let them put it i
n a test cell. It'll cost you some, but now would be better then latter and
have to replace your cylinders. Lycoming has a process of testing or runni
ng a new engine, You would do good to read those before you do anything.
ECI, Continental, RAM they all have a break-in program that you can get aho
ld of just by asking them or go on line. Or the back of your engine ovh/ ma
intenace manual.
-
- And I can say- they work better then running you engine on the ground
for long period of time.
-Patrick Thyssen
my2 cents from experience.
--- On Sun, 1/10/10, cjay wrote:
From: cjay <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
Date: Sunday, January 10, 2010, 8:00 PM
Matt,
That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to date
and integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight test
situation. I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power for a
couple hours myself?- As long as I can maintain good pressure cooling (f
rom the cowl or makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's c
losely.- Anyone have any- suggestions how to tie the airframe down duri
ng for this type of run-up?
cjay
Matt Dralle wrote:
> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend
bench run-in to about 11.5 hours.- Cost about $1000 extra.- But, the en
gine is now well past the most critical break-in phases.- I plan to use m
ineral oil and high power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but prope
r break-in should be much less of a worry.
>
> >
> >
> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future
) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the en
gine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
> >
> > A couple of the highlights:
> >
> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.--
-Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
> >
> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground ru
nning time to a minimum.-
> >
> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pre
ssure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall
and piston rings.
> >
> > I guess my question is- how can you achieve (2) when you are just sta
rting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around
the pattern?
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
but I have an overhauled that is untested to date and integrated in an
untested airframe,
now that's concerning, breakin is the least of your issues if you don't even
know if the engine runs.. or am I misunderstanding the "untested" piece.. if
you mean experimental, it's tested, heck I have a Eci in a overhaouled
engine I know it was tested for 1.5 hours and everything was signed off as
being safe, as a minimum make sure the engine is tested.
As I mentioned before follow the Lycoming steps, 100's have gone before us
without an issue.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
>
> Matt,
>
> That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to
> date and integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight
> test situation. I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power
> for a couple hours myself? As long as I can maintain good pressure
> cooling (from the cowl or makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp
> and CHT's closely. Anyone have any suggestions how to tie the airframe
> down during for this type of run-up?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Matt Dralle wrote:
>> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend
>> bench run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the
>> engine is now well past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use
>> mineral oil and high power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but
>> proper break-in should be much less of a worry.
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> > future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps
>> > for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled
>> > engine).
>> >
>> > A couple of the highlights:
>> >
>> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> > Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>> >
>> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
>> > running time to a minimum.
>> >
>> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> > pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> > cylinder wall and piston rings.
>> >
>> > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> > starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights
>> > around the pattern?
>> >
>> > cjay
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and
method of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
I did it this way, bought the can from Harbor freight and had it all
done within about 15 minutes. I did it so fast I thought I did something
wrong, one item I did come across is the pilot to co-pilot tubes had
some air in it, but in time it raised up to the reservoir and is long
gone, so if that happens to you don't worry just keep filling up the
reservoir and the air will rise.
I just bought Aeroshell 41 brake fluid from Aircraft spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php- pint
is more than plenty.
Pascal
From: Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to
try in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as
it has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available
from Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and
method of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
If you put some clear tubing on one of those plastic hose adaptors (tube to
pipe, ACS pg 117) and screw it into the top of your fluid reservoir, you can
catch the overflow and easily see when the trapped bubbles stop coming out.
Eliminates spillage at the reservoir.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Again
Have a look at this thread and then decide which spec of brake fluid to use.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147&sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba
5dcf3a02c544> &sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba5dcf3a02c544
Aeroshell 41 is a Mil Spec 5606 grade of fluid that has a much lower flash
point than Aeroshell 31. Personally, I ike the extra security of the higher
flash point fluid. A gallon is way overkill but it was the smallest quantity
I could buy (and the price difference was minimal).
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: January-10-10 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I did it this way, bought the can from Harbor freight and had it all done
within about 15 minutes. I did it so fast I thought I did something wrong,
one item I did come across is the pilot to co-pilot tubes had some air in
it, but in time it raised up to the reservoir and is long gone, so if that
happens to you don't worry just keep filling up the reservoir and the air
will rise.
I just bought Aeroshell 41 brake fluid from Aircraft spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php- pint is
more than plenty.
Pascal
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
You can purchase by the quart and/or a gallon at Skygeek.
http://www.skygeek.com/royco-782-synthetic-fire-resistant-hydraulic-fluid.ht
ml
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Hi Again
Have a look at this thread and then decide which spec of brake fluid to use.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147&sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba
5dcf3a02c544> &sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba5dcf3a02c544
Aeroshell 41 is a Mil Spec 5606 grade of fluid that has a much lower flash
point than Aeroshell 31. Personally, I ike the extra security of the higher
flash point fluid. A gallon is way overkill but it was the smallest quantity
I could buy (and the price difference was minimal).
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: January-10-10 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I did it this way, bought the can from Harbor freight and had it all done
within about 15 minutes. I did it so fast I thought I did something wrong,
one item I did come across is the pilot to co-pilot tubes had some air in
it, but in time it raised up to the reservoir and is long gone, so if that
happens to you don't worry just keep filling up the reservoir and the air
will rise.
I just bought Aeroshell 41 brake fluid from Aircraft spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php- pint is
more than plenty.
Pascal
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming front ramps with prop |
You had to have the prop on to fit the cowl, but if it is now fit, you
can remove the prop to make the baffles much easier to work with.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 8, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Pascal wrote:
> Before I spend too much time on this any suggestions how to get the
bottom cowl on to trim the front air ramps? I seem to be having an issue
with getting it to fit behind the spinner and over the air ramps.
> thanks!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Note to AFS EFIS Users - New software / Map format |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
Just a heads up to Advanced Flight Systems users.
AFS has
updated the map format to Version 12 (One file vs Three) along with new
EFIS software. EFIS Software is on the "Support" page and
map software is on the "Web Store" page.
Jim C (N312F
- 1st Condition Inspection Underway - in a COLD Hanger!)
Do Not
Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
AS others have noted, when on the ground even a CS prop tends to be stalled over
the inboard section, and provides very little cooling airflow into the cowl.
Extended high power ground runs are generally a poor idea.
However, a "bad break in" is not completely catastrophic financially (assuming
you didn't over heat anything). You'd have to pull all the cylinders and re-hone
them, to break the glaze; then start again.
I think a lot of engine people would agree that the 50 hours called for by Lycoming
is wildly conservative (but not harmful). For steel cylinders most of the
break-in happens in the first few hours, and if it doesn't the cylinders most
likely are glazed over, and another 40 hours is unlikely to help.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281071#281071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | IO 540 motor oil? |
In doing my cowl fitting it was necessary to rotate my three bladed prop. I
pulled the bottom plugs and had a significant amount of the motor oil cont
aining the anti corrosion additive out of #1 and #3 cylinders.
I just got a sample of the Cortec VC1-326 additive but can someone tell me
what motor oil the engine normally uses. My engine manual is behind a pile
of stuff which I cannot get out of the way right now.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
With all the talk a few days ago about corrosion protections check out
the deal of the day http://www.aircraftspruce.com/dealoftheday.html
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 motor oil? |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Mineral oil
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:32:33
Subject: RV10-List: IO 540 motor oil?
In doing my cowl fitting it was necessary to rotate my
three bladed prop. I pulled the bottom plugs and had
a significant amount of the motor oil containing the a
nti corrosion additive out of #1 and #3 cylinders.
I just got a sample of the Cortec VC1-326 additive but
can someone tell me what motor oil the engine normally
uses. My engine manual is behind a pile of stuff whi
ch I cannot get out of the way right now.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
After four plus years N333GR (#40301) finally took the weight off the wheels.
Like most previously described first flights this too was uneventful. I was struck
by the forward view (I found my self constantly wanting to climb since the
"normal" view looked like a dive) and the beauty of seeing the runway all the
way thru the pattern (all previous time in a 172). I was too tumescent to remember
anything else. I do have some issues with the GRT EFIS and EIS but I
think they are related to my lack of computer skills and the less than clear (at
least to me) GRT set-up documents. If anyone has advice on GRT set-up please
let me know. Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Congratulations!
What efis is this, the sport or the horizon? Some builders have reported that it
is very sensitive to the field sensor being in a magnetic field-free environment.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281117#281117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Bush Plane Salvage |
Hi
Take a look at this video and keep it in mind the time you fret over a
slightly enlarged rivet hole. I especially like the bit about the
"structural" wood spar.
<http://www.optimaljet.com/index1.htm> http://www.optimaljet.com/index1.htm
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bush Plane Salvage |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
QXdlc29tZSEgSXRzIGdyZWF0IHRvIGhhdmUgYSBsb3Qgb2YgZnJpZW5kcy4gOikNCg0KDQoNCl9f
X19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fDQoNCkZyb206IExlcyBLZWFybmV5IDxrZWFy
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0K
DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Bush Plane Salvage |
That sheet metal work makes me feel so much better about my riveting!
I bet the log book reads "removed and repaired wingtip"
From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
Subject: RV10-List: Bush Plane Salvage
Date: Mon=2C 11 Jan 2010 20:06:18 -0700
Hi
Take a look at this video and keep it in mind the time you fret over a slig
htly enlarged rivet hole. I especially like the bit about the "structural"
wood spar.
http://www.optimaljet.com/index1.htm
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | BBS style RV-10 site? |
Can someone provide me the web site that lists the RV-10 postings in the
old-style BBS fashion? I get the digest, but some photos are not included.
Before my disk crash in Dec, I had bookmarked the site that
allowed me to see all the postings, and view the photos. Now I can't
find it.
Phil
wiring and engine plumbing in IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congrats.... it's great watching this family grow!
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/11/10, jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
From: jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 6:12 PM
After four plus years N333GR (#40301) finally took the weight off the wheel
s.- Like most previously described first flights this too was uneventful.
- I was struck by the forward view (I found my self constantly wanting to
climb since the "normal" view looked like a dive) and the beauty of seeing
the runway all the way thru the pattern (all previous time in a 172). I wa
s too tumescent to remember anything else.- I do have some issues with th
e GRT EFIS and EIS but I think they are related to my lack of computer skil
ls and the less than clear (at least to me) GRT set-up documents.- If any
one has advice on GRT set-up please let me know.- - Jay Rowe
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BBS style RV-10 site? |
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
I found it: forums.matronics.com. :D
Some days, just dumb luck. Other days, simply dumb!
Phil
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281135#281135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
Thanks everyone for letting me know of your experiences with the James Aircraft
cowl. From the sounds of things, I think I'm going to go with the stock Van's
cowl. I was hoping there might be some demonstrable performance gain, but I'm
not enough of an "appearance" guy for the look to be worth the additional effort,
complication, and cost. Keeping things more straightforward can't be a
bad thing :-)
Dan
On 2010-Jan-07, at 10:08 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and
sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on
using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
>
> Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but
any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling...
is that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work
to fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
>
> And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock
items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the
more expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Well done Jay.- Wishing you safe, smooth and clear skies.=0A=0APatrick Pu
lis=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________________
___=0AFrom: "jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>=0ATo: Matronics R
V-10 list =0ASent: Tue, 12 January, 2010 12:42:01
=0A=0AAfter four plus years N333GR (#40301) finally
took the weight off the wheels.- Like most previously described first fli
ghts this too was uneventful.- I was struck by the forward view (I found
my self constantly wanting to climb since the "normal" view looked like a d
ive) and the beauty of seeing the runway all the way thru the pattern (all
previous time in a 172). I was too tumescent to remember anything else.-
I do have some issues with the GRT EFIS and EIS but I think they are relate
d to my lack of computer skills and the less than clear (at least to me) GR
T set-up documents.- If anyone has advice on GRT set-up please let me kno
======================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________
__________=0ASee what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now: http:/
/au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
It will be interesting to see how the Showplanes cowling will turn out. I
went with the stock cowling after hearing all of the horror stories with the
SJ cowl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Charrois" <danlist(at)syz.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
Thanks everyone for letting me know of your experiences with the James
Aircraft cowl. From the sounds of things, I think I'm going to go with the
stock Van's cowl. I was hoping there might be some demonstrable performance
gain, but I'm not enough of an "appearance" guy for the look to be worth the
additional effort, complication, and cost. Keeping things more
straightforward can't be a bad thing :-)
Dan
On 2010-Jan-07, at 10:08 PM, Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10
> and sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock
> Van's parts. One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling.
> I intend on using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending
> on budget at the time.
>
> Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums,
> but any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly
> dated.. there seems to be some information on people's experiences with
> the James Aircraft cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10
> offering. I know some people are planning on using it, but are any
> flying? What about the specs on it - it is claimed to be faster, more
> fuel efficient, and better at cooling... is that measurable, or mostly
> just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work to fit than the standard
> Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that? I'm trying to sort
> out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria) in terms of
> cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would be greatly
> appreciated!
>
> And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's
> stock items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears....
> especially for the more expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's
> kit.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations and Happy Flying!
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
>
> After four plus years N333GR (#40301) finally took the weight off the wheels.
Like most previously described first flights this too was uneventful. I was
struck by the forward view (I found my self constantly wanting to climb since
the "normal" view looked like a dive) and the beauty of seeing the runway all
the way thru the pattern (all previous time in a 172). I was too tumescent to
remember anything else. I do have some issues with the GRT EFIS and EIS but
I think they are related to my lack of computer skills and the less than clear
(at least to me) GRT set-up documents. If anyone has advice on GRT set-up please
let me know. Jay Rowe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
All of the replies are helpful but I would also add that you should fill up the
brake lines early in the game before you install the panel. Plus test them for
proper operation. I had two leaks (the Matco Brakes and at the pedals) that
were real bears to get fixed and VERY VERY messy. Brake fluid is very messy stuff.
Working upside down with the wrenches was a nasty side line to the build.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281187#281187
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 motor oil? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Per Ricksked if the engine is new you MUST use straight Mineral Oil per Lycoming's
specs until "the oil consumption stabilizes". Get it from your local FBO,
Spruce, or Chief Aircraft. Be sure to drain all of the preservative oil from the
engine first.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281189#281189
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 motor oil? |
I spoke to Lycoming's Bart=2C He then spoke to the tech department. He said
that the Cortec VC1-326 could be added to a 20w-50 mineral engine oil in a
1 to 10 ratio. I will be using a syringe to fill the two cylinders that lo
st the oil whan I removed the lower plugs.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil?
> From: Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net
> Date: Tue=2C 12 Jan 2010 11:03:16 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Per Ricksked if the engine is new you MUST use straight Mineral Oil per L
ycoming's specs until "the oil consumption stabilizes". Get it from your lo
cal FBO=2C Spruce=2C or Chief Aircraft. Be sure to drain all of the preserv
ative oil from the engine first.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281189#281189
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had me
produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor certificate,regis
tration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance info and signed by th
e FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was flying.Do are expe
rimentals require an approved manual ?
Must they be signed by the FAA?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
Hey Doc,
I was reading the FAR's last night about this just for grits and shins. I
understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a POH. I could not
find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I don't calc
one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the EFIS..that may be a good
question in the future. I do have W & B info on paper .many of them from
flight test but the EFIS is my main way of computing it.Need to make sure I
plug it in on every flight now too huh?
Rick S.
N246RS
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ramp check
While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had me
produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance info
and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was
flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
Must they be signed by the FAA?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
The requirement is for the empty weight paperwork from which
you would do the weight and balance calcs for fuel,
passengers, and baggage, not the calculations for each
flight. The rationale is that you couldn't do the
calculations without a starting point. It would avoid some
hassle if you had the W&B along with a CG envelope in your
owner/operators manual, which you should write.
Linn
Rick wrote:
> Hey Doc,
>
> I was reading the FARs last night about this just for grits and shins.
> I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a POH. I could
> not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I
> dont calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the EFIS.that may
> be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info on paper many of
> them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way of computing itNeed
> to make sure I plug it in on every flight now too huh?
>
>
>
> Rick S.
>
> N246RS
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *pilotdds(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: ramp check
>
>
>
>
> While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had
> me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
> certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance
> info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I
> was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
>
> Must they be signed by the FAA?
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I don't think there is any requirement for a POH for EAB aircraft.
However, you must have your Operating Limitations that were issued by
the DAR, on board. I don't think that is in the FAR's but should be
in your Operating Limitations.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 12, 2010, at 9:24 PM, Rick wrote:
Hey Doc,
I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for grits and
shins. I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a
POH. I could not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my
AFS -3500, I don=92t calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the
EFIS=85.that may be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info
on paper =85many of them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way
of computing it=85Need to make sure I plug it in on every flight now
too huh?
Rick S.
N246RS
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ramp check
While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He
had me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance
info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the
SR-22 I was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
Must they be signed by the FAA?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
There's no requirement for a POH. Some inspectors strongly suggest you hav
e
at least a checklist but if someone really wants to go without, there's
nothing stopping them.
You do have to carry the weight and balance data: empty weight, gross
weight, and cg limits. All of that is in the AFS EFIS but I don't know if
counts as official. It should.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 7:00 PM, David Maib wrote:
> I don't think there is any requirement for a POH for EAB aircraft.
> However, you must have your Operating Limitations that were issued by the
> DAR, on board. I don't think that is in the FAR's but should be in your
> Operating Limitations.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Flying
>
>
> On Jan 12, 2010, at 9:24 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> Hey Doc,
> I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for grits and shins.
I
> understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a POH. I could not
> find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I don=92t c
alc
> one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the EFIS=85.that may be a good
> question in the future. I do have W & B info on paper =85many of them fro
m
> flight test but the EFIS is my main way of computing it=85Need to make su
re I
> plug it in on every flight now too huh?
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *pilotdds(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: ramp check
>
>
> While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had m
e
> produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
> certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance inf
o
> and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was
> flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
> Must they be signed by the FAA?
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.
com/contribution
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Shelton" <SBaircraft(at)yahoo.com> |
While it is advisable to carry a POH, it is not legally required for all aircraft.
With the exception of some older airplanes, the type certificate for a certified
airplane usually requires a POH to be carried.
With an experimental airplane, there is obviously no type certificate that would
require a POH. You only have to carry a POH if required by the operating limitations
that were issued with your airworthiness certificate. Of course... a
POH is handy to have either way.
As a side note, we once got a COA to operate a small hand-launched UAV. The FAA
wanted heaps of documentation on board, even though nobody would be in the aircraft
to read it. We ended up putting everything on a memory stick and mounting
it inside the fuselage with velcro!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281240#281240
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
David,
You need the operating limitations after the test period?
I swore that the POH requirement didn't exclude experime
ntals but seemed inclusive to all aircraft Now I ha
ve to re read the book...and I don't have to use the
restroom!!
Rick S
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:00:45
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Linn,
So....since all my weights, arms and moments are in the EFIS....I satisfy that
requirement right? Or (surprise) the guvment who is here to hep us needs a sheet
of paper?
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:00:10
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check
The requirement is for the empty weight paperwork from which
you would do the weight and balance calcs for fuel,
passengers, and baggage, not the calculations for each
flight. The rationale is that you couldn't do the
calculations without a starting point. It would avoid some
hassle if you had the W&B along with a CG envelope in your
owner/operators manual, which you should write.
Linn
Rick wrote:
> Hey Doc,
>
> I was reading the FARs last night about this just for grits and shins.
> I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a POH. I could
> not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I
> dont calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the EFIS.that may
> be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info on paper many of
> them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way of computing itNeed
> to make sure I plug it in on every flight now too huh?
>
>
>
> Rick S.
>
> N246RS
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *pilotdds(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: ramp check
>
>
>
>
> While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had
> me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
> certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance
> info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I
> was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
>
> Must they be signed by the FAA?
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
That's funny!!! Or maybe sad depending on how you look at it
------Original Message------
From: David Shelton
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 12, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: ramp check
While it is advisable to carry a POH, it is not legally required for all aircraft.
With the exception of some older airplanes, the type certificate for a certified
airplane usually requires a POH to be carried.
With an experimental airplane, there is obviously no type certificate that would
require a POH. You only have to carry a POH if required by the operating limitations
that were issued with your airworthiness certificate. Of course... a
POH is handy to have either way.
As a side note, we once got a COA to operate a small hand-launched UAV. The FAA
wanted heaps of documentation on board, even though nobody would be in the aircraft
to read it. We ended up putting everything on a memory stick and mounting
it inside the fuselage with velcro!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281240#281240
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
We're talking about an agency that prevents you from adding
safety equipment to a certified aircraft ... which is why
the experimental category is expanding so rapidly.
I don't know if the EFIS data is acceptable or not. It's
just so much easier to show the guy the paper and avoid any
conflict. If the guy really wants to bust your balls, he'll
find something that you have to respond to and waste a lot
of time on. Remember "we're not happy 'till you're not
happy"?? I've been through the mill once, and I don't want
to do it again.
Linn
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Linn, So....since all my weights, arms and moments are in
> the EFIS....I satisfy that requirement right? Or
> (surprise) the guvment who is here to hep us needs a
> sheet of paper?
>
> Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters
> Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010
> 22:00:10 To: Subject: Re:
> RV10-List: ramp check
>
>
>
> The requirement is for the empty weight paperwork from
> which you would do the weight and balance calcs for fuel,
> passengers, and baggage, not the calculations for each
> flight. The rationale is that you couldn't do the
> calculations without a starting point. It would avoid
> some hassle if you had the W&B along with a CG envelope
> in your owner/operators manual, which you should write.
> Linn
>
> Rick wrote:
>> Hey Doc,
>>
>> I was reading the FARs last night about this just for
>> grits and shins. I understand you need your pilot cert,
>> medical, W&B and a POH. I could not find anything
>> else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I dont
>> calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the
>> EFIS.that may be a good question in the future. I do
>> have W & B info on paper many of them from flight test
>> but the EFIS is my main way of computing itNeed to
>> make sure I plug it in on every flight now too huh?
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick S.
>>
>> N246RS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *pilotdds(at)aol.com *Sent:* Tuesday, January
>> 12, 2010 6:04 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: ramp check
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by
>> a FAA rep.He had me produce my medical, pilot
>> certificate,flight instructor
>> certificate,registration,airworthiness
>> certificate,weight and balance info and signed by the
>> FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was
>> flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual
>> ?
>>
>> Must they be signed by the FAA?
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>
>> **
>>
>> * *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Linn's right, one piece of paper to back up what's on the EFIS keeps
everybody happy. I wouldn't even confuse the issue with the EFIS W&B.
And yeah, you're supposed to keep the op limits attached to the AW cert fro
m
now on.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 8:57 PM, Linn Walters wr
ote:
>
> We're talking about an agency that prevents you from adding safety
> equipment to a certified aircraft ... which is why the experimental categ
ory
> is expanding so rapidly.
>
> I don't know if the EFIS data is acceptable or not. It's just so much
> easier to show the guy the paper and avoid any conflict. If the guy real
ly
> wants to bust your balls, he'll find something that you have to respond t
o
> and waste a lot of time on. Remember "we're not happy 'till you're not
> happy"?? I've been through the mill once, and I don't want to do it agai
n.
> Linn
>
> ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
>
>>
>> Linn, So....since all my weights, arms and moments are in
>> the EFIS....I satisfy that requirement right? Or
>> (surprise) the guvment who is here to hep us needs a
>> sheet of paper?
>>
>> Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters
>> Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010
>> 22:00:10 To: Subject: Re:
>> RV10-List: ramp check
>>
>>
>>
>> The requirement is for the empty weight paperwork from
>> which you would do the weight and balance calcs for fuel,
>> passengers, and baggage, not the calculations for each flight. The
>> rationale is that you couldn't do the calculations without a starting po
int.
>> It would avoid
>> some hassle if you had the W&B along with a CG envelope
>> in your owner/operators manual, which you should write. Linn
>>
>> Rick wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Doc,
>>>
>>> I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for
>>> grits and shins. I understand you need your pilot cert,
>>> medical, W&B and a POH. I could not find anything
>>>
>>> else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I don=92t
>>> calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the
>>> EFIS=85.that may be a good question in the future. I do
>>> have W & B info on paper =85many of them from flight test
>>> but the EFIS is my main way of computing it=85Need to
>>>
>>> make sure I plug it in on every flight now too huh?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick S.
>>>
>>> N246RS
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *pilotdds(at)aol.com *Sent:* Tuesday, January
>>> 12, 2010 6:04 PM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* RV10-List:
>>> ramp check
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by
>>> a FAA rep.He had me produce my medical, pilot
>>> certificate,flight instructor certificate,registration,airworthiness
>>>
>>> certificate,weight and balance info and signed by the
>>> FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was
>>> flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual
>>>
>>> ?
>>>
>>> Must they be signed by the FAA?
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
My Phase 1 operating limitations state in Para. 1 that the ops lims
must be carried in the aircraft at all times. Then, the first para.
of my Phase II operating limitations list all of the phase 1
limitations that are still in effect for Phase II. This includes
Para. 1 of my phase 1 limitations.
I have a nice POH (plagiarized from others on this list ^_^) but my
DAR told that while it is a good thing to have, it is not required.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 12, 2010, at 11:28 PM, ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
David,
You need the operating limitations after the test period? I swore
that the POH requirement didn't exclude experimentals but seemed
inclusive to all aircraft Now I have to re read the book...and I
don't have to use the restroom!!
Rick S
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 22:00:45 -0500
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check
I don't think there is any requirement for a POH for EAB aircraft.
However, you must have your Operating Limitations that were issued by
the DAR, on board. I don't think that is in the FAR's but should be
in your Operating Limitations.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 12, 2010, at 9:24 PM, Rick wrote:
Hey Doc,
I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for grits and
shins. I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a
POH. I could not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my
AFS -3500, I don=92t calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the
EFIS=85.that may be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info
on paper =85many of them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way
of computing it=85Need to make sure I plug it in on every flight now
too huh?
Rick S.
N246RS
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ramp check
While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He
had me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance
info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the
SR-22 I was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
Must they be signed by the FAA?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
www.matronics.com/contribution
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw.
My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt
sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them
even.
It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as
possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please
see attached images.
Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring
aluminum?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Follow up your sanding with a pass of the Scotchbrite wheel. It will get you
a nice smooth finish. I wouldn't worry too much about your cut.
Kelly
40866, QB Wings/Fuse
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 7:20 AM, JHearnsberger
wrote:
> jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com>
>
> I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a
> band saw.
>
> My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an
> air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to
> get them even.
>
> It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight
> as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok?
> Please see attached images.
>
> Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for
> deburring aluminum?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 motor oil? |
January 05, 2010 - January 13, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fv