RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fy
January 18, 2010 - January 27, 2010
> --------
> RV-10 #40333
> N540XP (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282180#282180
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Left exhaust hanger |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Using Vans metal tubing with rubber hose stock and dual clamps, I found
that with time the clamps will allow the hose to slide down from the
initial position. The exhaust stack made contact with the fiberglass
lower cowl.
A beading tool allowed a quick ridge to be formed on the metal tube
stock to capture the hose and clamp. Looks like it will be a longer
term fix.
Some of you might find the similar change over time.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman.... that being said, I
tossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of stainless.
(I know several of you out there, just said, "of course he did").... It
seemed to me that to be properly positioned the bracket needed to be
bent, and the original bracket had lot's of mounting holes in it, which
would have made it even weaker. The attached pics should help. Just
zoom in on the first one to the actual bracket. I made a couple of
extra if you're interested.
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=jc-matronics_rv10@jline.c
o
m> >
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1
s
RgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust hangar
mount. Does anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a bit rube
goldberg as there is a lot of interference points: the air cooler, the
heat scat, tubes, etc. Any-->
http://www.mat====================
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder(at)bigpond.com> |
I just received my kit of parts for the Door latch SB courtesy of John Cox -
thanks John!!
The latch mod is certainly a very agricultural piece of design. I am with
Scott and the growing chorus to write to Vans and recommend a review of the
'mandatory' nature of this SB.
I'll watch with interest for the more elegant solutions I'm sure the more
enterprising builders will propose.
And I'll continue flying in the meantime.
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM, flying in Oz
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Sunday, 17 January 2010 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 10 SB
I suggest that all RV-10 builders and flyers with serial numbers write Van's
at info(at)vansaircraft.com
I have done the same and have asked Van's to retract the Service Bulletin
and offer the latch as an additional and optional latch just as the
indicator lights were offered.
I want to summarize what I have heard here.
Issues with the door will arise if:
-Poor door construction causing a bow during flight (Construction error)
(Fix: Re-build door or add Van's center latch)
-Pins are not inserted far enough into the aluminum frame (Construction
error) (Fix: Re-build pins to extend into aluminum frame)
-Door handle interlock is not engaged (Construction error and/or pilot
error) (Fix: Ensure handles are locked before flight, possible rebuild of
interlock)
-Door pins were locked outside of cabin (Pilot error)(Fix: Add door check to
checklist)
I am fine with Van's offering this as an optional kit but when they say on
the service bulletin that it is mandatory, I have a problem.
This is 100% different from the previous SB where we added stiffeners to the
vertical stabilizer and empenage.
I want everyone to fly safe and keep our insurance as low as possible, I
don't see this as the solution though.
We need to take personal responsibility to build to the highest quality and
use our checklists thoroughly.
Any system that is put into place (such as our checklists) is never fixed
with more protection devices, system only work and are improved through
training and discipline.
This solution is like adding a fixed gear to the bottom of a retractable
landing gear aircraft. It will be there just in case you don't put the gear
down.
The warnings lights and center latch should be optional as 100% safe flight
can be accomplished with the stock system. I do feel there are may pilots
flying safely without even the lights because of their training and
checklist discipline. The experimental category will always have
construction issues and must accept personal responsibility for that and not
burden the whole fleet with the quality shortcomings of the few.
I want everyone to fly safe, have fun and explore this world with their
planes and I appreciate Van's offering a system that solves a problem that a
few of RV-10's have with the doors bowing as a total replacement of the door
is very expensive.
Again, please write Van's and ask for the removal of this SB and make it
optional.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
_____
From: Jim Berry <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Sat, January 16, 2010 11:24:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 10 SB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
John, I roughed mine up with very coarse sand paper and it has not slipped in 650
hours.
-Scott
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:17 PM, "John Cox" wrote:
Using Vans metal tubing with rubber hose stock and dual clamps, I found that with
time the clamps will allow the hose to slide down from the initial position.
The exhaust stack made contact with the fiberglass lower cowl.
A beading tool allowed a quick ridge to be formed on the metal tube stock to capture
the hose and clamp. Looks like it will be a longer term fix.
Some of you might find the similar change over time.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman.... that being said, I tossed
the original brackets aside, and built my own out of stainless. (I know several
of you out there, just said, "of course he did").... It seemed to me that to
be properly positioned the bracket needed to be bent, and the original bracket
had lot's of mounting holes in it, which would have made it even weaker. The
attached pics should help. Just zoom in on the first one to the actual bracket.
I made a couple of extra if you're interested.
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust hangar mount. Does anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a bit rube goldberg as there is a lot of interference points: the air cooler, the heat scat, tubes, etc. Any--> http://www.mat====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
1/4" is the bottom sill.
I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit
the A311.
So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
easier to work with.
Thanks
Bill
Geoff Combs wrote:
> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges
> up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area
> and it made the
> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
> good results.
>
> 11 1120A411
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
> Bulb Width
>
>
> Geoff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Plans Page 23-5 Step 3 |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
just cut it in half, the dimensions of the whole thing are on the next page
or so. you do not have to be very exact as yhere is plenty of play when you
put it all together
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 11:44 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I have the correct tube identified, but don't see where it says to cut in
> half or any other dimension.
>
>
> John Kirkland wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm at the same spot, cut it exactly in half.
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40333
>> N540XP (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282180#282180
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
Don,
Do you remember where you found those red rubber washers that you used
to isolate the upper cable end from the bracket? Are they heat resistant
or anything special?
Thank you,
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald<mailto:building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman.... that being
said, I tossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of
stainless. (I know several of you out there, just said, "of course he
did").... It seemed to me that to be properly positioned the bracket
needed to be bent, and the original bracket had lot's of mounting holes
in it, which would have made it even weaker. The attached pics should
help. Just zoom in on the first one to the actual bracket. I made a
couple of extra if you're interested.
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang
wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to
=jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>>
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1
sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink<http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo
/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
>
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust
hangar mount. Does anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a
bit rube goldberg as there is a lot of interference points: the air
cooler, the heat scat, tubes, etc. Any-->
http://www.mat====================
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
This morning I shot a quick video describing some of my questions
regarding abrasion protection of conduit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saRUrF2vtMI
In 1990, we used text and thought it was great. In 2000, it was the
cherry on top if you could send digital photos. Now it's 2010 and video
is where we are. On a side note, what's 2020?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
Hey Bill,
I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are very
inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal. I have been
building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass until it is flat on
the outside. When it got close I filled it flat with epoxy and milled
glass. You have to use something like glass strips because it has to be
structural, you end up trimming so much down on the other side. I was lost
for a while and finally started seeing the light at the end of the tunnel
when taking off the door a million times and touching up each spot that
looked too close or filling anything with a gap too wide. I'm sure a lot of
people are much faster at this. I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would
do the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
>
>
> Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I purchased.
> I have the older green top and find that most of the edges are 1/4" or
> better. The only section that is consistently less than 1/4" is the
> bottom sill.
>
> I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more consistent
> in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been trying to figure
> out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit the A311.
>
> So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
> of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
> easier to work with.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> Geoff Combs wrote:
>> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges up
>> with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area and it
>> made the
>> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but good
>> results.
>> 11 1120A411
>> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
>> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" Bulb
>> Width
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each side instead
of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats and wrapped caterpillar
grommets around them. The exiting holes are so tight they can't move.
I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the conduit like
you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
All during my build I wandered through my brothers shop and confiscated eve
rything that I thought that I might be able to use during my build.- Amon
g those were several sections of rubber left over from military/govt projec
ts from the past.- Then I just make the washers out of that.- I can sen
d you some if you'd like.... got lots.... sent some to Pascal last week.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 1/19/10, Roger Standley wrote:
From: Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 5:42 AM
Don,
-
Do you remember where you found those red rubber washers that you used to i
solate the upper cable end from the bracket? Are they heat resistant or any
thing special?
-
Thank you,
-
Roger
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman....- that being said, I t
ossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of stainless.- (I
know several of you out there, just said, "of course he did").... It seeme
d to me that to be properly positioned the bracket needed to be bent, and t
he original bracket had lot's of mounting holes in it, which would have mad
e it even weaker.- The attached pics should help.- Just zoom in on the
first one to the actual bracket.- I made a couple of extra if you're inte
rested.-
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.-
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sR
gCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust hangar mount. Does
anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a bit rube goldberg as t
here is a lot of interference points: the air cooler, the heat scat, tubes,
etc. Any--> http://www.mat================
====
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Phil,
I cannot begin to tell you what we will be doing in 2020 but
I know in 2011 we will start filming in 3D as 2010 CES was all about 3D
TV's and CES 2011 is already slated for HEAVY 3D video cameras. I
suspect in just a few years we will all have OLED tablets or "scrolls"
as computers. If you have not seen OLED displays check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbTO5VM6s-
Small OLED's started showing up in buttons where the small
face of the button is a OLED display showing the status of the button
"On" with green background, "off" with red background. Now the buttons
have animations and small video loops and one can easily imagine a
series of buttons on the panel that when you select for example a
Landing Procedure all the appropriate buttons turn a specific color or
display or give flashing visual warnings when they are not selected for
that specific phase of flight and one button is dedicated to a check
list etc...
Another really cool item I saw at CES 2010 was a Microsoft
Table Top called Surface Touch with full touch to control capabilities.
Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr1O917o4jI
So for 2020 I expect the entire panel to be one large OLED multi touch
display where I can reconfigure my panel any way I wish at home and then
load the new configuration into the display by just resting my phone on
the surface. When I choose the IFR procedure a large 3D IFR plate is geo
referenced on the displayed along with any/all relevant information. Now
if I could only get it to perform a perfect hot start.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit abrasion
This morning I shot a quick video describing some of my questions
regarding abrasion protection of conduit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saRUrF2vtMI
In 1990, we used text and thought it was great. In 2000, it was the
cherry on top if you could send digital photos. Now it's 2010 and video
is where we are. On a side note, what's 2020?
Phil
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/18/10 16:56:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Robin,
Your youtube link is invalid. Thanks.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282265#282265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
Thanks Robin. I think this new setup might work well. Just mocked up now
and not final fitted yet. Robin used a clamp around the mount against
the firewall, which i had not considered. It actually looks like the
better spot for a clamp. There is much more clearance you can easily see
in the pics. It is a tight fit for the clamp but you can see the wedge
used to give a bit of room.
before:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
after:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-ictyfdhx9QfrQrIAIFkvQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
The right side is much easier. The left side is more crowded because the
2 4 6 cylinders push the exhaust further aft. However, too far aft, then
the oil cooler starts interfering. The sweet spot is definitely smaller
on the left side.
Jae
40533
Robin Marks wrote:
> Same as the right for us.
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbTO5VM6s-4
How about this...
Thanks,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion
Robin,
Your youtube link is invalid. Thanks.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282265#282265
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/19/10 07:34:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
dangit I just ordered two of my G3X screens!
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282274#282274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
http://cbs5.com/technology/lpd.television.imaging.2.1427833.html
Here's another one for large screens called LPD. They use lasers at
about 10% of the power of lcd and plasma screens.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that the plans tell
you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for something else.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Hey Sean,
I'm planning to add the tape to the conduit and not to the step...
As tight as those steps are, I can only imagine how hard it will be to
pull the step and tape through the mount.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each
side instead of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats
and wrapped caterpillar grommets around them. The exiting holes are so
tight they can't move. I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again
with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the
conduit like you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
Good point. That would kind of take away the reason to make the plate to
make the step removable.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 2:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Hey Sean,
I'm planning to add the tape to the conduit and not to the step...
As tight as those steps are, I can only imagine how hard it will be to
pull the step and tape through the mount.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each
side instead of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats
and wrapped caterpillar grommets around them. The exiting holes are so
tight they can't move. I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again
with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the
conduit like you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
How soon do you need it? I have both of mine ( I think) since I used Hendricks
locks. Ill mail them to you
Rick Sked
------Original Message------
From: Strasnuts
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 19, 2010 12:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rack on door handle
Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that the plans tell
you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for something else.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Just about finished with the construction and haven't come across a call out for
their use. I would say no.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282326#282326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
Thanks Ron.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rack on door handle
>
> Just about finished with the construction and haven't come across a call
> out for their use. I would say no.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282326#282326
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
I have some vague memory of using it as a guide for some aspect of the
door assembly, but its use isn't permanent.
On Jan 19, 2010, at 12:58 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that
> the plans tell you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for
> something else.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Page 45-13 , step 4. Operate the latch mechanism so as to cause the rack trimmings
to extend
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282331#282331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
Yes the plans have you use the cutoff shorter pieces to mark the doors where
to hog out fiberglass.
It pretty much requires the shorter pieces to be able to install the
mechanism and the plans have you install the mechanism to figure out how
much material to remove from the door to be able to install the door handle
with the full length pieces.
If doing it again though I would seriously consider cutting them a bit
longer to have more travel for the door pins like was mentioned in the last
couple days.
-Ben Westfall
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I finally found it in the plans. I read right over it a couple of times. Sorry
I should have taken more time before I asked.
Rick, I still need the extra for my third pin.
Thanks everyone.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282334#282334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
I think I would just order a few more and then make them as long as you need
for the travel aspect of it. I am going with the 3rd party door handle and
locks. Vans are way to crude of a design and not the quality I want.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rack on door handle
Yes the plans have you use the cutoff shorter pieces to mark the doors where
to hog out fiberglass.
It pretty much requires the shorter pieces to be able to install the
mechanism and the plans have you install the mechanism to figure out how
much material to remove from the door to be able to install the door handle
with the full length pieces.
If doing it again though I would seriously consider cutting them a bit
longer to have more travel for the door pins like was mentioned in the last
couple days.
-Ben Westfall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | From Van's on the door SB |
FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
> Date: January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
> To: rudi.greyling(at)accenture.com, rv10builder(at)verizon.net, ddddsp(at)juno.com
> , gengrumpy(at)aol.com, dav1111(at)suddenlink.net, bob(at)thelefflers.com, robertbrunk(at)mac.com
> , bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com, scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
> Subject: Service Bulletin
>
> Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
>
> The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
> Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the
> complaints we get about SBs list only the builder's personal
> concerns about difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that
> there is a "better way".
>
> We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them
> with broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable
> company, and to protect it against future liability. There will
> always be potential for some conflict between these two points of
> view, which we hope that our customers will understand.
>
> As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental
> world, it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them.
> It is up to the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By
> issuing this service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be
> complied with.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
> Vans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
We all got the same response. At least they responded, but I was with
Scott,
Vans response-
As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental world,
it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It is up to
the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By issuing this
service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be complied with.
Would have like to see the compliance as being "optional" since what
Vans is giving us really is not the only solution, there are much better
ways to do this, as many of us have already mentioned and their SB is
not opening that option with their verbiage.
Pasca;
From: Miller John
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 6:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: From Van's on the door SB
FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
To: rudi.greyling(at)accenture.com, rv10builder(at)verizon.net,
ddddsp(at)juno.com, gengrumpy(at)aol.com, dav1111(at)suddenlink.net,
bob(at)thelefflers.com, robertbrunk(at)mac.com, bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com,
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Service Bulletin
Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the complaints
we get about SBs list only the builder's personal concerns about
difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that there is a "better
way".
We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them with
broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable company, and to
protect it against future liability. There will always be potential for
some conflict between these two points of view, which we hope that our
customers will understand.
As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental world,
it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It is up to
the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By issuing this
service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be complied with.
Fly Safe,
Vans
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Floating Skybolts |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I just realized the SkyBolts I ordered for the firewall are the floating type.
I'm using hinges on the cowl split line.
Would the floating type allow the cowling to move away from the firewall creating
a bigger gap than what i've been crafting so carefully? Or should I just order
the fixed receptacles?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282374#282374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
Well, I can now tell you what you get:
- I got my package today, after ordering on the 14th. Fast!
- A big bag of scotch brite wheels. 49 of them, actually. (One short! Oh
well.)
- They are of the type GP-5AF. Compare this to Avery's CP-7A. (Nope, don't
know how to decode these numbers.)
- Avery's are gray, hard, and can take a corner off of a piece of aluminum
no problem. These are reddish, slightly squishy, and barely seem to scuff
aluminum when you rub it on it. If you run them for a while over a rough
edge you might convince yourself that it polished the burr to make it
sharper.
In short? A great deal, if you need these wheels. I'm not sure what I'm
going to do with them. :-) If anyone wants one (or 5) and would like to
pick them up from me, you are more than welcome to take them.
Chris
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Chris Colohan wrote:
> Ooooh. Great price. But some bad reviews in a Google search for this
> vendor. But they have been around for quite some time...
>
> I took a risk and ordered a package. I'll let you know if it turns out
> poorly.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 1:55 PM, wrote:
>
>> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal. I'm
>> not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery, etc., but
>> the price is incredible.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Sean Blair
>>
>> COS
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Lenny,
I did a large oil door similar to Dave Saylor's and used the floating Skybolt fasteners
at the firewall. There is no discernible change in the firewall to cowling
gap.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282376#282376
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
So we now have it from the horses mouth.
This is CYA !
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 1/19/2010 7:22 PM, Miller John wrote:
> FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> *From: *"Gus Funnell" <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com
>> >
>> *Date: *January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
>> *To: *rudi.greyling(at)accenture.com
>> , rv10builder(at)verizon.net
>> , ddddsp(at)juno.com
>> , gengrumpy(at)aol.com
>> , dav1111(at)suddenlink.net
>> , bob(at)thelefflers.com
>> , robertbrunk(at)mac.com
>> , bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com
>> , scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>> *Subject: **Service Bulletin*
>>
>> Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
>>
>> The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
>> Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the
>> complaints we get about SBs list only the builder's personal concerns
>> about difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that there is a
>> "better way".
>>
>> We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them
>> with broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable
>> company, and to protect it against future liability. There will
>> always be potential for some conflict between these two points of
>> view, which we hope that our customers will understand.
>>
>> As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental
>> world, it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It
>> is up to the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By
>> issuing this service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be
>> complied with.
>>
>> Fly Safe,
>>
>> Vans
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
So, did you use the same McMaster seals I'm getting ready to use?
1 1120A411
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
30 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
Bulb Width
And if so, can you help me understand what is 'flat on the outside'?
I've heard various things about how the door gutter should be trimmed.
Right now, I have them trimmed in a way that these seals work quite well:
2 93745K23
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K23&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
Extra-soft, 1/8" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
3 93745K43
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K43&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
Extra-soft, 1/4" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
But this material simply sticks to the door and compresses very easily
with a lot of memory. Same stuff I have on my Maule. Very easy to fit
and would look OK if I was painting my door. But it won't work if
covering the door with headliner material as I'm planning to do.
So my door/gutter joint has a gap of between 1/8" (very narrow) and 3/8"
around the edges. And the gutter edge/face itself varies from being
almost parallel to the door at the top near the hinges to being
perpendicular to the door at the bottom edge. Not very consistent.
It looks like I will have to widen the gap along the top and in a few
places along the side to accomodate the 3/8" bulb so it doesn't change
the exterior fit of the door (which is quite nice now after much filling
per Deem's technique). I will also have to thin the edge down in places
where it's too fat to take the 1/4" edged grip.
In doing all that, I'm guessing that there is some end state that I
should be working towards that is not obvious to me yet. I'm wondering
if you can help steer me towards that since you were once "lost" but now
found, so to speak.
Isn't it amazing how much you know AFTER you climb the learning curve
and finish one of the thousand tasks on this project.... almost makes
you want to start another.
Thanks for the reply.
Bill
Seano wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are
> very inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal. I
> have been building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass
> until it is flat on the outside. When it got close I filled it flat
> with epoxy and milled glass. You have to use something like glass
> strips because it has to be structural, you end up trimming so much
> down on the other side. I was lost for a while and finally started
> seeing the light at the end of the tunnel when taking off the door a
> million times and touching up each spot that looked too close or
> filling anything with a gap too wide. I'm sure a lot of people are
> much faster at this. I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would do
> the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson"
>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:32 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
>
>
>>
>>
>> Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
>> purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
>> are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
>> 1/4" is the bottom sill.
>>
>> I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
>> consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
>> trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to
>> fit the A311.
>>
>> So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added
>> thickness of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think
>> that will be easier to work with.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill
>>
>> Geoff Combs wrote:
>>> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my
>>> edges up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame
>>> area and it made the
>>> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
>>> good results.
>>> 11 1120A411
>>> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
>>> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
>>> Bulb Width
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
Bill,
Call me
801-580-3737
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
>
>
> So, did you use the same McMaster seals I'm getting ready to use?
> 1 1120A411
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
> 30 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" Bulb
> Width
>
> And if so, can you help me understand what is 'flat on the outside'?
>
> I've heard various things about how the door gutter should be trimmed.
> Right now, I have them trimmed in a way that these seals work quite well:
> 2 93745K23
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K23&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
> 1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
> Extra-soft, 1/8" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
> 3 93745K43
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K43&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
> 1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
> Extra-soft, 1/4" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
>
> But this material simply sticks to the door and compresses very easily
> with a lot of memory. Same stuff I have on my Maule. Very easy to fit
> and would look OK if I was painting my door. But it won't work if
> covering the door with headliner material as I'm planning to do.
>
> So my door/gutter joint has a gap of between 1/8" (very narrow) and 3/8"
> around the edges. And the gutter edge/face itself varies from being
> almost parallel to the door at the top near the hinges to being
> perpendicular to the door at the bottom edge. Not very consistent.
>
> It looks like I will have to widen the gap along the top and in a few
> places along the side to accomodate the 3/8" bulb so it doesn't change the
> exterior fit of the door (which is quite nice now after much filling per
> Deem's technique). I will also have to thin the edge down in places where
> it's too fat to take the 1/4" edged grip.
> In doing all that, I'm guessing that there is some end state that I should
> be working towards that is not obvious to me yet. I'm wondering if you
> can help steer me towards that since you were once "lost" but now found,
> so to speak.
>
> Isn't it amazing how much you know AFTER you climb the learning curve and
> finish one of the thousand tasks on this project.... almost makes you want
> to start another.
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> Bill
>
>
> Seano wrote:
>>
>> Hey Bill,
>>
>> I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are very
>> inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal. I have been
>> building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass until it is flat
>> on the outside. When it got close I filled it flat with epoxy and milled
>> glass. You have to use something like glass strips because it has to be
>> structural, you end up trimming so much down on the other side. I was
>> lost for a while and finally started seeing the light at the end of the
>> tunnel when taking off the door a million times and touching up each spot
>> that looked too close or filling anything with a gap too wide. I'm sure
>> a lot of people are much faster at this. I know if I had to do another
>> RV-10 I would do the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what
>> I know now.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson"
>>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:32 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
>>> purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
>>> are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
>>> 1/4" is the bottom sill.
>>>
>>> I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
>>> consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
>>> trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit
>>> the A311.
>>>
>>> So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
>>> of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
>>> easier to work with.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Geoff Combs wrote:
>>>> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges
>>>> up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area and
>>>> it made the
>>>> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
>>>> good results.
>>>> 11 1120A411
>>>> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
>>>> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
>>>> Bulb Width
>>>>
>>>> Geoff
>>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
I used the edge grip stuff as most others have. This has the added nicety of trimming
the gutter edge and making it look very finished. My process went something
like this:
- Fit the door
- Adjust the door to gutter gap to about 3/8" all the way around using whatever
method ( a surform, aka cheese grater, works well for this and the following
work)
- Build up the gutter edge on whichever side with flox to make it more perpendicular
to the door
- rough finish, check edge, attack with surform, repeat
- once "close" I cut strips of the edging to check rough fit and filled in or removed
material as necessary
- once that was close I installed the seal all the way and checked fit and adjusted
until the door could be closed AND locked without a great deal of force
- Once that was complete I removed the seal and proceeded with the finish work
of the gutters to make sure everything blended in nicely
Wash, rinse, repeat for the other side. I also used the 100 MPH release tape
method of creating covers for the door hinges which I then permanently attached
by bedding in with flox and using nutplates to attach. Once Abby covered my
doors they look very nice.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
So, did you use the same McMaster seals I'm getting ready to use?
1 1120A411
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
30 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
Bulb Width
And if so, can you help me understand what is 'flat on the outside'?
I've heard various things about how the door gutter should be trimmed.
Right now, I have them trimmed in a way that these seals work quite well:
2 93745K23
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K23&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
Extra-soft, 1/8" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
3 93745K43
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K43&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
1 Each Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back,
Extra-soft, 1/4" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l
But this material simply sticks to the door and compresses very easily
with a lot of memory. Same stuff I have on my Maule. Very easy to fit
and would look OK if I was painting my door. But it won't work if
covering the door with headliner material as I'm planning to do.
So my door/gutter joint has a gap of between 1/8" (very narrow) and 3/8"
around the edges. And the gutter edge/face itself varies from being
almost parallel to the door at the top near the hinges to being
perpendicular to the door at the bottom edge. Not very consistent.
It looks like I will have to widen the gap along the top and in a few
places along the side to accomodate the 3/8" bulb so it doesn't change
the exterior fit of the door (which is quite nice now after much filling
per Deem's technique). I will also have to thin the edge down in places
where it's too fat to take the 1/4" edged grip.
In doing all that, I'm guessing that there is some end state that I
should be working towards that is not obvious to me yet. I'm wondering
if you can help steer me towards that since you were once "lost" but now
found, so to speak.
Isn't it amazing how much you know AFTER you climb the learning curve
and finish one of the thousand tasks on this project.... almost makes
you want to start another.
Thanks for the reply.
Bill
Seano wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are
> very inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal. I
> have been building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass
> until it is flat on the outside. When it got close I filled it flat
> with epoxy and milled glass. You have to use something like glass
> strips because it has to be structural, you end up trimming so much
> down on the other side. I was lost for a while and finally started
> seeing the light at the end of the tunnel when taking off the door a
> million times and touching up each spot that looked too close or
> filling anything with a gap too wide. I'm sure a lot of people are
> much faster at this. I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would do
> the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson"
>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:32 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
>
>
>>
>>
>> Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
>> purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
>> are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
>> 1/4" is the bottom sill.
>>
>> I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
>> consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
>> trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to
>> fit the A311.
>>
>> So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added
>> thickness of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think
>> that will be easier to work with.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill
>>
>> Geoff Combs wrote:
>>> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my
>>> edges up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame
>>> area and it made the
>>> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
>>> good results.
>>> 11 1120A411
>>> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
>>> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
>>> Bulb Width
>>>
>>> Geoff
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
My understanding is the floating is for giving a larger area to align the
bolt initially, once you tighten it down it wont "float".
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Floating Skybolts
>
> I just realized the SkyBolts I ordered for the firewall are the floating
> type.
> I'm using hinges on the cowl split line.
>
> Would the floating type allow the cowling to move away from the firewall
> creating a bigger gap than what i've been crafting so carefully? Or should
> I just order the fixed receptacles?
>
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282374#282374
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have them and they are great. No discernible separation. Makes a nice tight fit
and the floaters give you an extra bit of wiggle space to fit the cowl. Happy
to have them on the top of the cowl. Note: If you use their suggested spacing,
the "kit" leaves you two fastenings short. I had to order two extra pieces
and they screwed up the order. The kit is made for RV7/8/9's and the IO-540 has
a bigger cowl. The Skybolt people are not the easiest to deal with. Contact
me off line if desired.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282476#282476
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B. Unfortunately,
we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and the potential
liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some non-builder user sued
Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit, essentially putting them out of
business (like what happened to Piper a few years back). I know because I lost
about $5000 on my deposit with Piper. Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse
chasing lawyers in this country we are all screwed.
We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country where we
are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we see fit regardless
of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are free to do as
you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us will fit the
Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this Summer.
As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and well
engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight to fly.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes on
with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't like
the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything you
like.
I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
some of the other kits out there?
OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
adventures with Pro-Seal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a few
years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this country
we are all screwed.
We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country where
we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we see
fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are free
to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us will
fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
Summer.
As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
to fly.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Of course this is CYA. But it's nothing like the certified world. A year ago or
so I got a letter from Airborn, saying that they had established a service life
of 5 years for vacuum pumps. And since they hadn't made any for five years,
all Airborn pumps were now unairworthy and had to be removed from service. Of
course, this had no authority of law behind it (at least in the US part 91) but
was just CYA. Poor guys in part 135, some other countries, however, were out
of luck.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282506#282506
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Thanks guys, i'll go for it then.
It looks as if they float only about 1/16 fwd/aft, and more sideways.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282520#282520
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
Lenny,
The floating ones are actually better than the fixed when you are using many
of them in a cowl. Temperature changes make the cowl dimensions change
slightly. With the floating socket you will have easier engagement and allow
for minor changes due to climate. Once the fastener is engaged the pressure
keeps them from moving.
Rick Sked
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Floating Skybolts
Thanks guys, i'll go for it then.
It looks as if they float only about 1/16 fwd/aft, and more sideways.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282520#282520
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue is the
solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could have been a
better option than a hook that should have been considered, like improving
the door, better system of locking, etc.
I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at the
time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime without issue
or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane, Vans knows planes
significantly better than I so why not get their doors to close correctly to
start with versus putting out a SB that I think avoids the issue to start
with.
So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook that
brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with Dick
flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better solution.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
> on
> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't
> like
> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything
> you
> like.
>
> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
> some of the other kits out there?
>
> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh, NC
> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
> adventures with Pro-Seal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a
> few
> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
> country
> we are all screwed.
>
> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
> where
> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we
> see
> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
> free
> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us
> will
> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
> Summer.
>
> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
> to fly.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
This builder is thinking the solution is already out there - the
aftermarket blocks combined with the light system seems positive enough
and sturdy enough to me. Nothing else need be done in my opinion. I'm
guessing that Van may think so too when he has builder/flyer hat on.
But there's a business involved...
From a CYA perspective, I can see how the blocks and lights may not be
enough for a factory supplied solution, even if they'd like to think
so. All a litigant would have to do is pull the threads on door
latching. So they've put out a very positive, perhaps crude, probably
low cost but liability avoiding solution to CYA. And left it up the
flexibility of the builder and the rules surrounding homebuilding to
chose the right solutions.
I'm comfortable and perhaps even impressed.
Bill "can't wait for the SB but can't figure out where to store it" Watson
Pascal wrote:
>
> I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue
> is the solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could
> have been a better option than a hook that should have been
> considered, like improving the door, better system of locking, etc.
> I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at
> the time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime
> without issue or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane,
> Vans knows planes significantly better than I so why not get their
> doors to close correctly to start with versus putting out a SB that I
> think avoids the issue to start with.
> So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook
> that brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
> Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with
> Dick flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better
> solution.
> Pascal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
Total agreement here too. It's easy to lose sight of the whole
homebuilt concept when building one of these modern kits.
Jack Phillips wrote:
>
> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes on
> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't like
> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything you
> like.
>
> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
> some of the other kits out there?
>
> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh, NC
> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
> adventures with Pro-Seal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a few
> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this country
> we are all screwed.
>
> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country where
> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we see
> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are free
> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us will
> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
> Summer.
>
> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
> to fly.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
I don't really mind the response Van's gave for the SB.
I do wish they wouldn't have made it mandatory, but in todays
world I think that every company does the CYA dance whenever
they can. We should be glad it isn't an AD and that
experimentals don't have to comply with AD's. We built these
planes ourselves for a reason...so that we could have the
freedom to experiment and modify. If Van's wants to
cover their butt, so be it. When it comes to a structural
fix, like the bulkhead patch, I don't think that we need to
question it much...if there is a structural problem, we
can just gladly obey and do the fix...because we can't really
prove the design as-is is faulty. When it comes to this
SB, we all know that doors flying off can be a problem...but
it's our job to find a way around that happening to us.
Good thing we're free to choose our methods.
One plug for the internet age... I really think that
the honest "I built it myself" builder, who participates
in a list such as this, will be a far "safer" RV-10 pilot.
Some of that comes from the care they take in building,
some comes from the knowledge of how it's built, but,
a LOT OF BENEFIT will come to those who built it themselves
and through the learning process decided to take part in
a list like this. On a list like this, you get to hear
about the good and the bad....like doors flying off. I
don't remember the count or know the current count, but
I think, if I remember right, that I'm personally aware of
about 5 or 6 door-off incidents. That's not a small number
for this size fleet, and ESPECIALLY since Van's had it
happen to THEM before, they probably understand that it's
time to do something about it. So they provided parts,
and guidance, to fix their little doormonster.
Where it is sad, but not unexpected, is that after it
happened to them and a few other people, if Van's had
participated more in the online discussions, and taken
things to heart, perhaps sooner into the kit sales
cycle they could have improved the latch design, and
maybe by kit 300 or something, they could have had a
better door latch mechanism as standard production.
But, we all know that once Van's has finished a kit and
started selling all kit sections, they're DONE with it.
They don't improve it unless they have a major issue.
Not even for a major MINOR issue. Look at the axle
extensions that we all used to know about. We heard
about many people breaking axle extensions...high rates
of failure. But that's minor to them, so they don't
even re-issue those parts. They just simply do not
go back and revise much unless they personally see many
problems with it. I'm not ranting about it...it's
just the way they are. They went on and focused on the
RV-12 project. There ARE no major improvements coming
for any section of the RV-10, I'd be willing to bet.
It would be more likely that there would be an RV-13
in the makings (or maybe RV-14 to avoid losing sales
to superstitious folk). Maybe the RV-14 will be a new
design of a nice 4-seater...who knows. Maybe they'll
learn some things from the -10 and it'll have new
doors. But I just think it's unrealistic to expect
major changes to their RV-10 design....even if it's
something they could make much nicer like the door
latching.
Also, for their fix, they needed to come up with
something that could be an easy bolt-in fix for
already flying planes. They realize that fixing
the entire latching mechanism isn't really very
easy on a finished plane....so I'm sure they came
up with what they did because it was something that
anyone could add, pre or post construction.
So, while I think the SB fix is ugly and not what
I plan to do, I really can't hold them in poor
regard for how they did it or what they did.
They really should "cover their asses". It wouldn't
make good business sense not to. It would be nice
to not see the word "mandatory" there, but in the end,
it need not worry us anyway. We can comply as we
wish.
Tim
Miller John wrote:
> FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>>
>> Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
>>
>> The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
>> Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the
>> complaints we get about SBs list only the builder's personal concerns
>> about difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that there is a
>> "better way".
>>
>> We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them with
>> broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable company, and
>> to protect it against future liability. There will always be potential
>> for some conflict between these two points of view, which we hope that
>> our customers will understand.
>>
>> As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental world,
>> it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It is up
>> to the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By issuing
>> this service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be complied with.
>>
>> Fly Safe,
>>
>> Vans
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
The issue is Service Bulletins are not intended to be a redesign of the
airplane. They're intended to provide a retrofit solution to a known
problem in a current design. Anyone who thinks Vans is going to
redesign the doors and write a SB against it will always be
disappointed.
I stand by Vans on this one. They have a right to recognize a problem
and offer a fix for it. Think of the alternative.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Pascal [mailto:rv10builder(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue is
the
solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could have been
a
better option than a hook that should have been considered, like
improving
the door, better system of locking, etc.
I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at
the
time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime without
issue
or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane, Vans knows planes
significantly better than I so why not get their doors to close
correctly to
start with versus putting out a SB that I think avoids the issue to
start
with.
So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook
that
brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with Dick
flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better
solution.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that
goes
> on
> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible.
Don't
> like
> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's
a
> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do
anything
> you
> like.
>
> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made
the
> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience.
Many
> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the
empennage
> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is
the
> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes
and
> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality
of
> some of the other kits out there?
>
> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh, NC
> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
> adventures with Pro-Seal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem
and
> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper
a
> few
> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with
Piper.
> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
> country
> we are all screwed.
>
> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
> where
> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as
we
> see
> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
> free
> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of
us
> will
> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
> Summer.
>
> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built
and
> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a
delight
> to fly.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
Jack Phillips...you forgot to say something. Just build the plane better=2C
never settle for=2C "Good Enough!" You and your family are going to be in
the dam thing. Van's is doing what they need to do in this litigious=2C gr
eed driven society.
> From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
> Date: Wed=2C 20 Jan 2010 12:52:11 -0500
>
>
> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
on
> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't lik
e
> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
> HOMEBUILT. That means you=2C as the manufacturer=2C are free to do anythi
ng you
> like.
>
> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit=2C and has made the
> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype)=2C or ugly=2C as is
the
> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
> some of the other kits out there?
>
> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh=2C NC
> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
> adventures with Pro-Seal
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Wednesday=2C January 20=2C 2010 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
> Unfortunately=2C we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem
and
> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit=2C
> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a f
ew
> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this count
ry
> we are all screwed.
>
> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country whe
re
> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we s
ee
> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are fr
ee
> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints=2C I will bet that 90% of us
will
> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
> Summer.
>
> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built an
d
> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a deligh
t
> to fly.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
Agreed, John. I don't know what I'll do when I get to the latch
installation. I'm still working on the fuel tanks and trying to figure out
how to beef up the fuel tanks so when a passenger steps forward of the spar
they don't cause leaks around the rivets. Here's a case where this list has
given me a heads up on a potential problem, at a point where I might be able
to do something about it. I'll probably run my potential solution past
Van's, with the understanding that they will almost certainly not approve of
it due to legal concerns. I'm considering adding a doubler sheet under the
skin as they did in the wingwalk area.
But I understand that they have a business to run and that whatever I do as
the manufacturer is strictly up to me.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 3:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
Jack Phillips...you forgot to say something. Just build the plane better,
never settle for, "Good Enough!" You and your family are going to be in the
dam thing. Van's is doing what they need to do in this litigious, greed
driven society.
> From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:52:11 -0500
>
>
> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
on
> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't like
> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything
you
> like.
>
> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
> some of the other kits out there?
>
> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh, NC
> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
> adventures with Pro-Seal
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a
few
> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
country
> we are all screwed.
>
> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
where
> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we
see
> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
free
> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us
will
> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
> Summer.
>
> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
> to fly.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
&=============
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Grimsonco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Quick Build Wing Kit FOR SALE |
Complete quick build wing kit For Sale. Delivery options available.
Inventory complete without stall warning system.
Includes wing storage cart on casters.
Paul Grimstad,
Portland, Or.
503-849-2123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
I agree Jack, quit complaining and get out there and fly the plane!
It is always easy to complain when you are not flying and you have time building
and absorbing all the comments from a site like this. You can really work yourself
up.
At our company we preach "GO TO GEMBA", which means "go to the actual place" before
you start complaining and coming up with solutions, go to where the problem
is and use it, learn it and get to know everything you can about it. Then
you can really identify the issues, the root cause and test proposed countermeasures
and possible solutions.
I have spent my last two weeks praying to the weather gods and I have not had the
answer I am looking for.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 10:52:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes on
with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't like
the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything you
like.
I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
some of the other kits out there?
OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
adventures with Pro-Seal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a few
years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this country
we are all screwed.
We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country where
we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we see
fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are free
to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us will
fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
Summer.
As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
to fly.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
The problem is not the builder but the purchased (second owner) aircraft. We
have one here that was purchased by a businessman who according to my
sources has already lost the same door twice. No record on any FAA database
have I found. In addition his aircraft was annualed and the shop left the
nose wheel flopping side to side by 20 degrees. I talked to the second shop
who was asked to fix the nose wheel and pointed them to the MATCO axle
solution. The problem is not we builders who own and fly but the hired guns
and other sellers that build an aircraft to Vans specifications and sell it.
Since we either do not have deep pockets or are adequately liability proof,
the litigant will try and sue Vans. For me, I already have an adequate
solution to the door and will not implement the SB. Now for space to store
another box.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
-->
This builder is thinking the solution is already out there - the aftermarket
blocks combined with the light system seems positive enough and sturdy
enough to me. Nothing else need be done in my opinion. I'm guessing that
Van may think so too when he has builder/flyer hat on.
But there's a business involved...
From a CYA perspective, I can see how the blocks and lights may not be
enough for a factory supplied solution, even if they'd like to think so.
All a litigant would have to do is pull the threads on door latching. So
they've put out a very positive, perhaps crude, probably low cost but
liability avoiding solution to CYA. And left it up the flexibility of the
builder and the rules surrounding homebuilding to chose the right solutions.
I'm comfortable and perhaps even impressed.
Bill "can't wait for the SB but can't figure out where to store it" Watson
Pascal wrote:
>
> I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue
> is the solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could
> have been a better option than a hook that should have been
> considered, like improving the door, better system of locking, etc.
> I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at
> the time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime
> without issue or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane,
> Vans knows planes significantly better than I so why not get their
> doors to close correctly to start with versus putting out a SB that I
> think avoids the issue to start with.
> So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook
> that brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
> Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with
> Dick flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better
> solution.
> Pascal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
Well that opens a whole other problem area. If you don't implement the S
B, and the aircraft is sold to someone else who then looses the door, you a
re also potentially liable. Call the aircraft Bob's Toy in the paperwork i
f you want, the insurance company won't care when they are looking for a wa
y to offset the costs.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
The problem is not the builder but the purchased (second owner) aircraft. W
e have one here that was purchased by a businessman who according to my sou
rces has already lost the same door twice. No record on any FAA database ha
ve I found. In addition his aircraft was annualed and the shop left the nos
e wheel flopping side to side by 20 degrees. I talked to the second shop wh
o was asked to fix the nose wheel and pointed them to the MATCO axle soluti
on. The problem is not we builders who own and fly but the hired guns and o
ther sellers that build an aircraft to Vans specifications and sell it. Sin
ce we either do not have deep pockets or are adequately liability proof, th
e litigant will try and sue Vans. For me, I already have an adequate soluti
on to the door and will not implement the SB. Now for space to store anothe
r box.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
-->
This builder is thinking the solution is already out there - the aftermarke
t blocks combined with the light system seems positive enough and sturdy en
ough to me. Nothing else need be done in my opinion. I'm guessing that Va
n may think so too when he has builder/flyer hat on.
But there's a business involved...
From a CYA perspective, I can see how the blocks and lights may not be eno
ugh for a factory supplied solution, even if they'd like to think so. All
a litigant would have to do is pull the threads on door latching. So they'
ve put out a very positive, perhaps crude, probably low cost but liability
avoiding solution to CYA. And left it up the flexibility of the builder an
d the rules surrounding homebuilding to chose the right solutions.
I'm comfortable and perhaps even impressed.
Bill "can't wait for the SB but can't figure out where to store it" Watson
Pascal wrote:
>
> I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue
> is the solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could
> have been a better option than a hook that should have been
> considered, like improving the door, better system of locking, etc.
> I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at
> the time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime
> without issue or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane,
> Vans knows planes significantly better than I so why not get their
> doors to close correctly to start with versus putting out a SB that I
> think avoids the issue to start with.
> So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook
> that brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
> Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with
> Dick flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better
> solution.
> Pascal
>
>
more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
content also available via the Web Forums!
http://forums.matronics.com
you for your generous support!
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
I'm not sure I understand or agree with the statement/s, about the
original builder's liability increasing in the event of an accident
after resale. If that's true, then any modification other than paint
scheme carries the same potential. I'm not a lawyer, but I'm not aware
of any successful lawsuit on an experimental builder following an
accident, by either an insurance company or a plaintif. Maybe I'm just
ignorant ( OK let the comments rain!).
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 1/20/2010 3:38 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Well that opens a whole other problem area. If you don't implement
> the SB, and the aircraft is sold to someone else who then looses the
> door, you are also potentially liable. Call the aircraft Bob's Toy in
> the paperwork if you want, the insurance company won't care when they
> are looking for a way to offset the costs.
>
> Michael
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 20, 2010 5:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
> The problem is not the builder but the purchased (second owner)
> aircraft. We have one here that was purchased by a businessman who
> according to my sources has already lost the same door twice. No
> record on any FAA database have I found. In addition his aircraft was
> annualed and the shop left the nose wheel flopping side to side by 20
> degrees. I talked to the second shop who was asked to fix the nose
> wheel and pointed them to the MATCO axle solution. The problem is not
> we builders who own and fly but the hired guns and other sellers that
> build an aircraft to Vans specifications and sell it. Since we either
> do not have deep pockets or are adequately liability proof, the
> litigant will try and sue Vans. For me, I already have an adequate
> solution to the door and will not implement the SB. Now for space to
> store another box.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Mauledriver Watson
>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
> -->
>
> This builder is thinking the solution is already out there - the
> aftermarket blocks combined with the light system seems positive
> enough and sturdy enough to me. Nothing else need be done in my
> opinion. I'm guessing that Van may think so too when he has
> builder/flyer hat on.
>
> But there's a business involved...
>
> >From a CYA perspective, I can see how the blocks and lights may not be
> enough for a factory supplied solution, even if they'd like to think
> so. All a litigant would have to do is pull the threads on door
> latching. So they've put out a very positive, perhaps crude, probably
> low cost but liability avoiding solution to CYA. And left it up the
> flexibility of the builder and the rules surrounding homebuilding to
> chose the right solutions.
>
> I'm comfortable and perhaps even impressed.
>
> Bill "can't wait for the SB but can't figure out where to store it"
> Watson
>
> Pascal wrote:
> >
> > I agree, as I gather most agree, Vans make a wonderful kit, the issue
> > is the solution Vans came up with for the door. I believe there could
> > have been a better option than a hook that should have been
> > considered, like improving the door, better system of locking, etc.
> > I built my door so they close correctly, rear first, my 5 year old (at
> > the time) beta tested it for me and it closes each and everytime
> > without issue or the rear not closing. I am just building a plane,
> > Vans knows planes significantly better than I so why not get their
> > doors to close correctly to start with versus putting out a SB that I
> > think avoids the issue to start with.
> > So my whining is- improve the issue before band aiding it with a hook
> > that brings yet another issue, rain getting into the doors being one.
> > Vans is a good company I think they thought this through, but with
> > Dick flying his own plane one would think he would have found a better
> > solution.
> > Pascal
> >
> >
>
>
> more:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
> content also available via the Web Forums!
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> you for your generous support!
> --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Quick Build Wing Kit FOR SALE |
Paul are you giving up on your -10?
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick Build Wing Kit FOR SALE
Complete quick build wing kit For Sale. Delivery options available.
Inventory complete without stall warning system.
Includes wing storage cart on casters.
Paul Grimstad,
Portland, Or.
503-849-2123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you want to improve on Van's seal method, add a coat of CS3204
A-2(PR 1422 A-2) over the original B-2 sealant, before you install the
back baffle. It is a brushing compound intended to cover rivet heads
and fill any gaps in the B-2. Then put a coat of CS3600 (PR1005L)
sloshing compound over that. Every Mooney wet wing tank is sealed that
way. A belt and suspenders approach.
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 2:09 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> Agreed, John. I dont know what Ill do when I get to the latch
> installation. Im still working on the fuel tanks and trying to figure out
> how to beef up the fuel tanks so when a passenger steps forward of the spar
> they dont cause leaks around the rivets. Heres a case where this list has
> given me a heads up on a potential problem, at a point where I might be able
> to do something about it. Ill probably run my potential solution past
> Vans, with the understanding that they will almost certainly not approve of
> it due to legal concerns. Im considering adding a doubler sheet under the
> skin as they did in the wingwalk area.
>
>
> But I understand that they have a business to run and that whatever I do as
> the manufacturer is strictly up to me.
>
>
> Jack Phillips
>
> #40610
>
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 3:07 PM
> To: RV 10 group
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> Jack Phillips...you forgotto say something. Just build the plane better,
> never settle for, "Good Enough!" You and your family are going to be in the
> dam thing.Van's is doing what they need to do in this litigious, greed
> driven society.
>
>
>> From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:52:11 -0500
>>
>>
>> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
>> on
>> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't like
>> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
>> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything
>> you
>> like.
>>
>> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
>> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
>> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
>> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
>> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
>> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
>> some of the other kits out there?
>>
>> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>>
>> Jack Phillips
>> #40610
>> Raleigh, NC
>> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
>> adventures with Pro-Seal
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>>
>>
>> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
>> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem and
>> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
>> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
>> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a
>> few
>> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
>> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
>> country
>> we are all screwed.
>>
>> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
>> where
>> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we
>> see
>> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
>> free
>> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us
>> will
>> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
>> Summer.
>>
>> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built and
>> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a delight
>> to fly.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B - testing phase 1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> &=============
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
Thanks, Kelly. Where can I find that CS3204 A-2?
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
If you want to improve on Van's seal method, add a coat of CS3204
A-2(PR 1422 A-2) over the original B-2 sealant, before you install the
back baffle. It is a brushing compound intended to cover rivet heads
and fill any gaps in the B-2. Then put a coat of CS3600 (PR1005L)
sloshing compound over that. Every Mooney wet wing tank is sealed that
way. A belt and suspenders approach.
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 2:09 PM, Jack Phillips
wrote:
> Agreed, John. I dont know what Ill do when I get to the latch
> installation. Im still working on the fuel tanks and trying to figure
out
> how to beef up the fuel tanks so when a passenger steps forward of the
spar
> they dont cause leaks around the rivets. Heres a case where this list
has
> given me a heads up on a potential problem, at a point where I might be
able
> to do something about it. Ill probably run my potential solution past
> Vans, with the understanding that they will almost certainly not approve
of
> it due to legal concerns. Im considering adding a doubler sheet under
the
> skin as they did in the wingwalk area.
>
>
> But I understand that they have a business to run and that whatever I do
as
> the manufacturer is strictly up to me.
>
>
> Jack Phillips
>
> #40610
>
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 3:07 PM
> To: RV 10 group
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> Jack Phillips...you forgotto say something. Just build the plane better,
> never settle for, "Good Enough!" You and your family are going to be in
the
> dam thing.Van's is doing what they need to do in this litigious, greed
> driven society.
>
>
>> From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:52:11 -0500
>>
>>
>> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
>> on
>> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't
like
>> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
>> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything
>> you
>> like.
>>
>> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
>> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
>> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
>> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
>> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
>> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
>> some of the other kits out there?
>>
>> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>>
>> Jack Phillips
>> #40610
>> Raleigh, NC
>> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
>> adventures with Pro-Seal
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>>
>>
>> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
>> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem
and
>> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
>> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
>> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a
>> few
>> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
>> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
>> country
>> we are all screwed.
>>
>> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
>> where
>> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we
>> see
>> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
>> free
>> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us
>> will
>> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
>> Summer.
>>
>> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built
and
>> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a
delight
>> to fly.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B - testing phase 1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> &=============
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Sealpak is one vendor. I don't recall if Sacramento Sky Ranch or
Spruce had it. Be prepared for hazmat fee, as it contains enough
Toluene to have flash point around 90.
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 6:55 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
>
> Thanks, Kelly. Where can I find that CS3204 A-2?
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:23 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>
>
> If you want to improve on Van's seal method, add a coat of CS3204
> A-2(PR 1422 A-2) over the original B-2 sealant, before you install the
> back baffle. It is a brushing compound intended to cover rivet heads
> and fill any gaps in the B-2. Then put a coat of CS3600 (PR1005L)
> sloshing compound over that. Every Mooney wet wing tank is sealed that
> way. A belt and suspenders approach.
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 2:09 PM, Jack Phillips
> wrote:
>> Agreed, John. I dont know what Ill do when I get to the latch
>> installation. Im still working on the fuel tanks and trying to figure
> out
>> how to beef up the fuel tanks so when a passenger steps forward of the
> spar
>> they dont cause leaks around the rivets. Heres a case where this list
> has
>> given me a heads up on a potential problem, at a point where I might be
> able
>> to do something about it. Ill probably run my potential solution past
>> Vans, with the understanding that they will almost certainly not approve
> of
>> it due to legal concerns. Im considering adding a doubler sheet under
> the
>> skin as they did in the wingwalk area.
>>
>>
>>
>> But I understand that they have a business to run and that whatever I do
> as
>> the manufacturer is strictly up to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jack Phillips
>>
>> #40610
>>
>> Raleigh, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 3:07 PM
>> To: RV 10 group
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>>
>>
>>
>> Jack Phillips...you forgotto say something. Just build the plane better,
>> never settle for, "Good Enough!" You and your family are going to be in
> the
>> dam thing.Van's is doing what they need to do in this litigious, greed
>> driven society.
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>>> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:52:11 -0500
>>>
>>>
>>> I agree Mike. I am continually amazed at the amount of whining that goes
>>> on
>>> with this list. I think the quality of Van's kit is incredible. Don't
> like
>>> the door latching mechanism? Fine - you are free to change it. It's a
>>> HOMEBUILT. That means you, as the manufacturer, are free to do anything
>>> you
>>> like.
>>>
>>> I think Van's has done an excellent job with this kit, and has made the
>>> changes they felt necessary based on real world flight experience. Many
>>> feel the changes are un-necessary (particularly the SB on the empennage
>>> bulkhead to prevent the crack found on the prototype), or ugly, as is the
>>> case with this one. Every builder is free to evaluate these changes and
>>> make their own decisions for incorporation. Ever look at the quality of
>>> some of the other kits out there?
>>>
>>> OK - off the soapbox and preparing for the flames.
>>>
>>> Jack Phillips
>>> #40610
>>> Raleigh, NC
>>> Slo-Build Wings - assembling the fuel tanks and eagerly awaiting
>>> adventures with Pro-Seal
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>>> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:17 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: From Van's on the door SB
>>>
>>>
>>> I would like to give my kiddos to Van's for coming out with this S/B.
>>> Unfortunately, we all live in a CYA world. They recognized the problem
> and
>>> the potential liability and acted. Would any of us rather that some
>>> non-builder user sued Van's and won a big (say $30 million) lawsuit,
>>> essentially putting them out of business (like what happened to Piper a
>>> few
>>> years back). I know because I lost about $5000 on my deposit with Piper.
>>> Until we get rid of the ambulance or hearse chasing lawyers in this
>>> country
>>> we are all screwed.
>>>
>>> We are still (at least for a while) lucky enough to live in a country
>>> where
>>> we are free to build and modify these amazing experimental planes as we
>>> see
>>> fit regardless of any S/B. Use the S/B - ignore it - modify it you are
>>> free
>>> to do as you see fit. Despite all complaints, I will bet that 90% of us
>>> will
>>> fit the Van's S/B (or some mutation of it) when we show up at OSH this
>>> Summer.
>>>
>>> As we all know Van's philosophy is to build a light - adequately built
> and
>>> well engineered aircraft that flies fast - turns easily - and is a
> delight
>>> to fly.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> OSH '10 or Bust
>>> Q/B - testing phase 1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282481#282481
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> &=============
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I'd suggest that if you sell your aircraft, hand the new owner the parts and the
SB for the door. Now it's his choice. Lawyers may still come after you, but
at least you have a plausible defense.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282631#282631
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring and Conduit |
Hi all,
I am working on my wing ribs, and realize I have to start thinking about
what all will need wiring in the wing. Without knowing exactly what will be
out there, I want to leave as much room for wiring as reasonable and was
wondering what other people have done at this point. I see the conduit that
Vans sells, and it mentions that it has been used for wing wiring. Has
anyone done this? Is this the blue ribbed conduit shown in the recent
conduit abrasion thread? The plans call for enlarging the wiring hole to
5/8" (0.625") for the grommet, but the conduit is 0.810" according to Van's.
Is this too much of an enlargement of the hole? The plans say that
enlarging to 5/8" will create a notch in the angle on the inboard rib, I
don't want that any larger than necessary.
Also, if installing AOA, do the lines get run through the wiring run? I
would like to finalize at least the pitot line. Looks like the bottom skins
shouldn't be put on until all of these details are worked out.
Thanks . . .
Kent Ogden
#40710 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Door Departure in flight pics |
Does anyone have the pics of the RV-10 that had some previous damage from a
hard landing and then later a door departure in flight with damage to the
horizontal stabilizer? I thought I had saved those pics but can't find them
now.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
I installed vans conduit, enlarged the holes to 3/4" and pulled it through
the ribs. I have 5 wire pull stings running through it now so I na pull the
wires when needed.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 11:05 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am working on my wing ribs, and realize I have to start thinking about
> what all will need wiring in the wing. Without knowing exactly what will be
> out there, I want to leave as much room for wiring as reasonable and was
> wondering what other people have done at this point. I see the conduit that
> Vans sells, and it mentions that it has been used for wing wiring. Has
> anyone done this? Is this the blue ribbed conduit shown in the recent
> conduit abrasion thread? The plans call for enlarging the wiring hole to
> 5/8" (0.625") for the grommet, but the conduit is 0.810" according to
> Van's. Is this too much of an enlargement of the hole? The plans say that
> enlarging to 5/8" will create a notch in the angle on the inboard rib, I
> don't want that any larger than necessary.
>
> Also, if installing AOA, do the lines get run through the wiring run? I
> would like to finalize at least the pitot line. Looks like the bottom skins
> shouldn't be put on until all of these details are worked out.
>
> Thanks . . .
>
> Kent Ogden
> #40710 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
The Vans conduit will fit nicely in a 3/4" hole, which, as I recall,
is the hole size Vans does not want you to exceed.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 21, 2010, at 8:05 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am working on my wing ribs, and realize I have to start thinking
> about what all will need wiring in the wing. Without knowing
> exactly what will be out there, I want to leave as much room for
> wiring as reasonable and was wondering what other people have done
> at this point. I see the conduit that Vans sells, and it mentions
> that it has been used for wing wiring. Has anyone done this? Is
> this the blue ribbed conduit shown in the recent conduit abrasion
> thread? The plans call for enlarging the wiring hole to
> 5/8" (0.625") for the grommet, but the conduit is 0.810" according
> to Van's. Is this too much of an enlargement of the hole? The
> plans say that enlarging to 5/8" will create a notch in the angle on
> the inboard rib, I don't want that any larger than necessary.
>
> Also, if installing AOA, do the lines get run through the wiring
> run? I would like to finalize at least the pitot line. Looks like
> the bottom skins shouldn't be put on until all of these details are
> worked out.
>
> Thanks . . .
>
> Kent Ogden
> #40710 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
Kent Ogden wrote:
Kent;
Few things to think about;
AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
Other things to think about:
Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
and indicator lights.
VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
inspection plate.
Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
landing lights?
Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
rivet up the lower skin.
Dr Fred
515FW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For fixer-uppers |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/MiracleA320WreckageToBeAuctionedOff_201873-1.html#gallery
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282786#282786
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just got the kit today and will not install. I lengthened the pins and may
put the aluminum blocks to replace the nylon guides.I feel the pins twice
before each departure. Once after doors are shut at the hangar and once
before takeoff. I always shut both doors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Maybe it would send a message if those of us that don't have the
finish kit tell them to delete the SB parts from our order and credit
us.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 3:36 PM, DLM wrote:
> Just got the kit today and will not install. I lengthened the pins and may
> put the aluminum blocks to replace the nylon guides.I feel the pins twice
> before each departure. Once after doors are shut at the hangar and once
> before takeoff. I always shut both doors.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the G3X
including sensors would be available in February. They further announced
an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the TruTrak GX (not on
TruTrak's website that I can find). As Garmin says:
TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly
with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be
operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications
derived from Garmin's certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot interface
implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude
preselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn
anticipation, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a
GNS 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns,
procedure turns, and WAAS approaches.
Cool!
More basic info:
The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of $9,995
and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and engine interface
unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air temperature probe. The G3X
engine sensor kits for Lycoming, Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines
are sold separately. A software update that adds EIS and autopilot
features is expected to be available for free from www.garmin.com in
February 2010.
Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their ADS-b
package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release Wednesday:
"Regardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they should
never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situational
awareness, improve safety of flight"
Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down
$9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X?
Robin
BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other than
my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I
occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Kent,
I used Vans conduit through 3/4" holes like the others have mentioned. For the
AoA, I enlarged the tooling hole near the pitot line hole for the second plastic
tube.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282861#282861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot |
Thanks Robin,
I've been too busy on the doors to keep up with the latest. I feel
pretty good about my recent purchase.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 22, 2010, at 2:14, "Robin Marks" wrote:
> As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the
> G3X including sensors would be available in February. They further
> announced an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the
> TruTrak GX (not on TruTrak=99s website that I can find). As
Garmin say
> s:
>
>
> TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly
> with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be
> operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications
> derived from Garmin=99s certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot
interface
> implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude pr
> eselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn anticipa
> tion, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a GNS
> 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns, proced
> ure turns, and WAAS approaches.
>
>
> Cool!
>
>
> More basic info:
>
> The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of
> $9,995 and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and
> engine interface unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air
> temperature probe. The G3X engine sensor kits for Lycoming,
> Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines are sold separately. A
> software update that adds EIS and autopilot features is expected to
> be available for free from www.garmin.com in February 2010.
>
>
> Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their
> ADS-b package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release
> Wednesday:
>
>
> =9CRegardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they
should
> never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situation
> al awareness, improve safety of flight=9D
>
>
> Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down
> $9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X?
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other
> than my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I
> occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think
of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due to
reduced circulation while crawling around.
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Jay,
I installed my windscreen before the panel, and would do it that way again. I would
suggest installing any defrost fans you may want before doing the windscreen.
I also painted the lower 2-3" of the inside of the windscreen to hide the
fiberglass fairing you will create on the outside. That area is very difficult
to work in once the windscreen is in place.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282919#282919
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I did all my panel, subpanel, and wiring work with the top forward fuselage
on a work bench. Made it much easier than crawling around the fuselage.
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/img_0624.jpg
That's what I'd recommend, if you haven't riveted that part on yet. If you
have, it probably doesn't matter whether the windscreen is done before or
after.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 9:53 AM, jayb wrote:
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't
> think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer
> due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that
backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the
upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to
position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it will
allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they don't fit in
a certain place.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't
> think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get
> warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The fans are
in place.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I did most of my panel work with the forward fuselage section upside
down on the bench. I would wait as long as possible before riveting
that whole section in place. The engine can go on, landing gear, the
top fitted - you just can't final attach the top.
Then I riveted it in place and continued to finish the panel. I
attached the top, fitted the doors, glued the windows... everything
short of the windsheild.
I'm still tinkering around inside and trying to hold off on the
windsheild until the last possible moment. I find everything easier to
do with the windsheild off. It's been cut and fitted but it is in
storage until I have to put it on.
Bill
jayb wrote:
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think
of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due
to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
makes no difference than, however do not install the avionics until after
the windscreen.. between fitting the plexi and resin you don't want to worry
about it going near the avionics.
This is what I am doing not what I did.I don't have the upper fusellage
riveted yet so doing all my wiring was easy enough.
Have fun..
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 12:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The
> fans are in place.
>
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | New product introduction: TCW Technologies |
Fellow RV builders,
TCW Technologies, is pleased to introduce our newest product, Integrated
Back-up Battery System (IBBS).
IBBS is a complete back-up battery solution for powering critical
electronics such as EFIS, GPS, Autopilots and Engine monitors. The IBBS
product combines a rechargeable ni-mh battery, a smart charger circuit
and the transfer switch in a single enclosure that is easy to install
and only 1/2 the weight of a comparable lead acid battery.
The IBBS provides about 1 hour of back-up endurance for typical EFIS and
GPS systems; additionally, it includes surge suppression and allows
systems to operational before and during engine cranking.
The IBBS system is very easy to install and eliminates other field
installed components such as transfer contactors and diodes.
The IBBS product has been tested by Garmin for use with their G3x series
of products.
For all the details please visit our web site: www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
rv-10 40176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are
ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a
sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward
fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in
rattle can.
Linn
Pascal wrote:
>
> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
>>
>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
Srpuce and other supply houses.
As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
chock.
The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
they are no wider than the tire itself.
You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
------Original Message------
From: Miller John
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
Srpuce and other supply houses.
As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
chock.
The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
they are no wider than the tire itself.
You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
grumpy
N184JM
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you already
riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used rattle can, spray
on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store to paint the forward
fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough. Scuff and prime first.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready
> to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to
> mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage top
> with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
> Linn
>
> Pascal wrote:
>>
>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
>> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that
>> backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the
>> upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to
>> position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it
>> will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they
>> don't fit in a certain place.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>
>>>
>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Oh please Grumpy, can we get a picture?
"Looking like a fool with your pants on the ground"
Too FF
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
> Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
> ------Original Message------
> From: Miller John
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
>
>
> Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
>
> Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
>
> I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> Srpuce and other supply houses.
>
> As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> chock.
>
> The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
>
> Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> they are no wider than the tire itself.
>
> You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
>
> grumpy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Now that I installed the flush door handles in rear part of the door and the unlock
button is in the front I'd need a third hand to release the door latch in
the middle of the door.
I guess I really have to rethink if my setup is still feasible with the new SB.
Not happy with the entire door locking mechanism
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283045#283045
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Michael,
I have been flying with the same door handle setup you have. I don't
have the SB kit yet, but I imagine the sequence to open the door will
be to push the forward unlock button and rotate the flush handle to
open. (two handed operation) At that point, the SB latch will still
be holding the door in the closed position, but the pins will be
retracted. Then you will release the SB latch and pull the door open.
Shouldn't be a three handed job. I am curious if it looks like the SB
latch is going to interfere with any of the internal flush handle
mechanism?
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 23, 2010, at 2:36 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
Now that I installed the flush door handles in rear part of the door
and the unlock button is in the front I'd need a third hand to
release the door latch in the middle of the door.
I guess I really have to rethink if my setup is still feasible with
the new SB.
Not happy with the entire door locking mechanism
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283045#283045
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cram <johncram(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Another flying 10 |
At approximately 1:30pm Thursday N569JC lifted off at KLVJ=2C Pearland=2CTX
and flew straight and fast. The Nafsinger/Cram built 10 was completed in a
little over 3 yrs with most all of the work done by my build partner and f
riend Nick Nafsinger. She was a QB but with many mods all designed by Nick.
IO-540 by Lyc Thunderbolt=2C Dual AFS 4500's=2C sl-30=2C 327=2C 430W=2C an
d Dynon D-6 backup. overhead panel w/dropdown screen in back and all aircra
ft lighting switches. The electric cowl flaps work flawlessly. Doors have 3
point locking system operated by the one handle. I could go on and on but
I will spare everyone. Great airplane=2C I will miss the building process b
ut not the $$$ part.
John Cram
was: 40569
now: N569JC- flying 1.9 hrs
http://picasaweb.google.com/N569JC/20100121N569JC#
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
Another 10 added to our family.- Congrats and welcome aboard!- You are
so right about missing the building process.... but I keep tinkering anyway
... seems there's always one more little mod to do.
Well off to the airport to find an excuse to go somewhere.
We're considering a move to Texas... Granbury... not too far away.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/23/10, John Cram wrote:
From: John Cram <johncram(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Another flying 10
Date: Saturday, January 23, 2010, 8:53 AM
At approximately 1:30pm Thursday N569JC lifted off at KLVJ, Pearland,TX and
flew straight and fast. The Nafsinger/Cram built 10 was completed in a lit
tle over 3 yrs with most all of the work done by my build partner and frien
d Nick Nafsinger. She was a QB but with many mods all designed by Nick. IO-
540 by Lyc Thunderbolt, Dual AFS 4500's, sl-30, 327, 430W, and Dynon D-6 ba
ckup. overhead panel w/dropdown screen in back and all aircraft lighting sw
itches. The electric cowl flaps work flawlessly. Doors have 3 point locking
system operated by the one handle. I could go on and on but I will spare e
veryone. Great airplane, I will miss the building process but not the $$$ p
art.
-
John Cram
was: 40569
now: N569JC- flying 1.9 hrs
-
http://picasaweb.google.com/N569JC/20100121N569JC#
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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eW91ciBnZW5lcm91cyBzdXBwb3J0IQ0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
LU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLg0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNz
LmNvbS9jb250cmlidXRpb24NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoNCg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
I had a main flat once and found that I couldn't jack the plane until I took
the pant off but couldn't get the pant off because the lowest screws were
Phillips and resting almost on the ground. Had to locate a wing jack to
change the tire. After that I used short hex head screws in those locations
so I could remove them.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
> ------Original Message------
> Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
> Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
> Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
> I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> Srpuce and other supply houses.
> As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> chock.
> The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
> Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> they are no wider than the tire itself.
> You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
> grumpy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
David,
You are correct. Opening the door is a 2 step sequence, but it does not require
3 hands. Rotating the handle allows the bottom of the door to move outward 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch. Lift the new latch about 3/4 inch to open the door fully.
The new latch also makes a convenient pull point to bring the door completely
in for closing. I had been thinking of adding a strap of some type, as others
have done, but probably will not now.
I don't know how this will work out with other door handle systems, but the upper
surface of the latch is 1/2 inch below the aft door pin rod and 11 1/2 inches
aft of the stock door handle shaft.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283104#283104
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Putting pants on is over rated!
Pervert!!! This is as family list!!!
.... all in good fun
Linn
>
> Great tip though. :)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Fri Jan 22 21:15:42 2010
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
>
>
>
> Oh please Grumpy, can we get a picture?
>
> "Looking like a fool with your pants on the ground"
>
> Too FF
>
> ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
> >
> > Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
> > Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
> > ------Original Message------
> > From: Miller John
> > Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
> >
> >
> > Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
> >
> > Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
> >
> > I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> > Srpuce and other supply houses.
> >
> > As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> > chock.
> >
> > The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> > part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
> >
> > Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> > they are no wider than the tire itself.
> >
> > You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> > future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> > somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
> >
> > grumpy
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5hum
> 'ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1
> jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <N205EN(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior
to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
Fit the upper cabin top brace
Install the engine
Fit the upper and lower cowls
Install the cowl baffles
Fit the windscreen
Larry Rosen
Starting building after a year away
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring
> will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before
> you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then
> use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the
> forward fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured'
> black in rattle can.
> Linn
>
> Pascal wrote:
>>
>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get
>> all that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than
>> close out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will
>> help with where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but
>> more importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route
>> wires around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>
>>>
>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin
>>> will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
no issues. I did everything except the windscreen. I'll rivet the upper
fusellage than do the windscreen as it makes little sense for me to move the
windscreen, fit it and wait to final install until I finally get around to
riveting the front- which will be months.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry Rosen" <N205EN(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior to
> riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
>> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
>> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready
>> to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to
>> mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage
>> top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
>>> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
>>> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
>>> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
>>> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
>>> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
>>> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
The only thing you can do is the mounting the engine. You can fit the
brace and drill it but you will have to take it back off. The cowls
can't be done until the fwd top fuse is in place because of the
hinges. Also, you can't do the baffling because the cowls can't be
installed until the hinges. I hope I'm right but that is the way I
had to do it.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2010, at 15:30, Larry Rosen t wrote:
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below
> prior to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>> >
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
>> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the
>> wiring will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage.
>> Before you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield
>> and then use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage
>> top. Paint the forward fuselage top with a flat black paint ....
>> look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the
>>> components. no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and
>>> layout I would get all that backend stuff done first, get all the
>>> wires positioned than close out the upper fusellage and install
>>> the windscreen. This will help with where to position your fans in
>>> relation to the avionics but more importantly it will allow you to
>>> get easy access to move/route wires around if they don't fit in a
>>> certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before
>>>> panel? I can't think of any particular reason why not other than
>>>> the cabin will get warmer due to reduced circulation while
>>>> crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Larry,
All of the items on your list can be accomplished before riveting the forward top
fuselage in place. Just cleco the top skin and proceed with the other steps.
Obviously you will have to remove the cabin top brace after drilling for the
hardware at the upper end, then reinstall it after the forward skin is riveted
in place. There is no problem clecoing the cowl hinges and fitting the cowling,
baffles, etc. without the top skin being riveted.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283146#283146
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Man do I feel like a ri-tard. I guess I can finish my baffling. Thanks Jim.
I never thought of using clecos. I'm serious.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283149#283149
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I guess I have 4 pennies in here now!!
I'll bolt on the engine mount so I can mount stuff on the firewall prior
to riveting on the forward upper fuselage. I think I'll put it on the
gear just before mounting the engine. My proposed schedule would be:
1) fit the cabin top brace
2) complete the wiring ..... My panel will be connectorized for easy
removal and the wirng to the fuselage will either be coiled up with the
forward upper fuselage, or attached after it's riveted on.
3) prepare the inside of the cabin top ..... in process now ....
getting ready to lay up the overhead console. Might include painting on
inside.
4) install all the interior trim panels and seats.
5) river forward upper fuselage.
6) install cabin top.
7) get on the gear.
8) hang engine.
9) baffling .... make plenum.
10) attach cowl
11) install windows and windscreen.
12) final assembly of wings and tail feathers.
13) final paint ..... wings & tail feathers will be painted after
they're assembled.
If there's a quagmire in the making .... someone let me know!!!
Linn
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior
> to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
>> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring
>> will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before
>> you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then
>> use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the
>> forward fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured'
>> black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get
>>> all that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than
>>> close out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will
>>> help with where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but
>>> more importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route
>>> wires around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To:
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin
>>>> will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engine
case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which the
y fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the tor
que value. I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this for
um=2C but I couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to t
ighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be design
ed for expansion.
Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycoming
to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
Thanks=2C
JOhn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Congrats John!
Finally an airplane with a James cowl like mine! Did you have any temp issues?
Did you actually need the cowl flaps? I'm just hoping that normal 260hp engine
will not produce heat problems when using the James cowl unlike those fire breathing
dragons others have used.
So pleeeaaase give me some numbers.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283168#283168
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engine
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which they
> fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque value.
> I have thelycoming torque value pages that were puton this forum, but I
> couldn't findthe specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and mustbe
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will Ineedtocall Lycoming
> to order another boltand get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt, 7/16" is the
bolt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder i
t broke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez
wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the en
gine
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which
they
> fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque v
alue.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum, bu
t I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried
to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lyco
ming
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Larry,
I don't foresee any quagmires, but I do have a few questions and suggestions. I
am not sure if your list is just the stuff that needs to be done, or a proposed
work sequence.
1. If by interior trim panels you mean the sheet metal, there is really not much
point in putting it in yet. It looks kind of cool to see it in, but it is going
to need to come back out for final inspection. Even if you are compulsive
about planning your fuselage wiring & plumbing, I can almost guarantee there will
be something that needs to be changed.
2. There is no need to rivet the forward fuselage before you final install the
cabin top. You can slide the forward fuselage on and off with the cabin top in
place. I would put off riveting the forward fuselage as long as possible, which
means everything on your list except the windscreen and wings.
3. Make absolutely sure you have made any/all modifications to your subpanel before
you rivet the forward fuselage. Having to cut access for long avionics or
mount components on the subpanel after it is installed is an absolute pita.
4. I don't see doors. You are going to love doing those.
5. Baffling will have to come after fitting the cowl. I am not sure about the plenum
since I don't have one.
6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage ribs that are
very difficult to access with the engine in place. You will want 2 sets of
very small, but highly trained hands to help with this step.
Have fun.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283172#283172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Larry posed the question .... the list is mine!
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> I don't foresee any quagmires, but I do have a few questions and
> suggestions. I am not sure if your list is just the stuff that needs
> to be done, or a proposed work sequence.
Both.
>
> 1. If by interior trim panels you mean the sheet metal, there is
> really not much point in putting it in yet. It looks kind of cool to
> see it in, but it is going to need to come back out for final
> inspection. Even if you are compulsive about planning your fuselage
> wiring & plumbing, I can almost guarantee there will be something
> that needs to be changed.
I ran sufficient conduit so adding wires shouldn't be a problem. I also
have a wire run down the center console without conduit so those covers
might pose a problem.
>
> 2. There is no need to rivet the forward fuselage before you final
> install the cabin top. You can slide the forward fuselage on and off
> with the cabin top in place. I would put off riveting the forward
> fuselage as long as possible, which means everything on your list
> except the windscreen and wings.
Good point. The cabin top and the forward upper fuse are my final
'close out' items since I really don't want them in the way.
>
> 3. Make absolutely sure you have made any/all modifications to your
> subpanel before you rivet the forward fuselage. Having to cut access
> for long avionics or mount components on the subpanel after it is
> installed is an absolute pita.
I'm there now. My transponder is the only deep item. such a shame to
do so much work stiffening the hole for a couple of inches.
>
> 4. I don't see doors. You are going to love doing those.
My doors are hung .... going through the process to add the
McMaster-Carr seals. Lots of grinding/filling on the door jambs.
>
> 5. Baffling will have to come after fitting the cowl. I am not sure
> about the plenum since I don't have one.
I think you're right. Good call.
>
> 6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage
> ribs that are very difficult to access with the engine in place. You
> will want 2 sets of very small, but highly trained hands to help with
> this step.
Only the engine mount will be installed prior to attachment of the upper
fuselage. I have stuff to mount on the engine side of the firewall so
need clearance and maintenance room.
>
> Have fun.
Fun??? Well, I am enjoying the journey. This is far more complex than
building my Pitts ...... but the fun will come in the flying. My brain
keeps the tune 'I'm a traveling man, made a lot of stop, all over the
world ...... I want to see a lot more of my country before I croak!!!
Thanks for the guidance!!!
Linn
>
> Jim Berry 40482 N15JB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283172#283172
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
I was about to make that admission=2C what was I thinking
From: n801bh(at)netzero.com
Date: Sun=2C 24 Jan 2010 04:22:43 +0000
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt=2C 7/16" is the b
olt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder it br
oke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Date: Sat=2C 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts=2C which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 8:02 PM=2C John Gonzalez wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engin
e
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which t
hey
> fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the tor
que value.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum=2C but
I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycomin
g
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks=2C
>
> JOhn
>
>
____________________________________________________________
Home Improvement Projects
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement proj
ect.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Linn;
All looks like what I did/am doing. I might suggest you do the cowl before
the baffles, I noticed that it was easier to fit/adjust the baffles to the
correct cowl mating than it would be to make the cowls line up and fit
around the baffles. I had a heck of a time with my cowls they were warped
and took loads of work just to align so I am glad I did my cowls before the
baffles.
I really would hold off on riveting the upper forward fusellage until after
step #10. The engine can be mounted without concern of the piece being
riveted on, I have had it this way for months .
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> I guess I have 4 pennies in here now!!
> I'll bolt on the engine mount so I can mount stuff on the firewall prior
> to riveting on the forward upper fuselage. I think I'll put it on the gear
> just before mounting the engine. My proposed schedule would be:
> 1) fit the cabin top brace
> 2) complete the wiring ..... My panel will be connectorized for easy
> removal and the wirng to the fuselage will either be coiled up with the
> forward upper fuselage, or attached after it's riveted on.
> 3) prepare the inside of the cabin top ..... in process now .... getting
> ready to lay up the overhead console. Might include painting on inside.
> 4) install all the interior trim panels and seats.
> 5) river forward upper fuselage.
> 6) install cabin top.
> 7) get on the gear.
> 8) hang engine.
> 9) baffling .... make plenum.
> 10) attach cowl
> 11) install windows and windscreen.
> 12) final assembly of wings and tail feathers.
> 13) final paint ..... wings & tail feathers will be painted after they're
> assembled.
>
> If there's a quagmire in the making .... someone let me know!!!
> Linn
>
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior to
>> riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
>> Fit the upper cabin top brace
>> Install the engine
>> Fit the upper and lower cowls
>> Install the cowl baffles
>> Fit the windscreen
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> Starting building after a year away
>>
>>
>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
>>> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
>>> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are
>>> ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a
>>> sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward
>>> fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in
>>> rattle can.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Pascal wrote:
>>>>
>>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>>>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
>>>> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
>>>> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
>>>> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
>>>> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
>>>> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>>> Pascal
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
>>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>>> To:
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Jay
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
insulation to break it loose from the braid.
There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Bryant <drgeoffbryant(at)gmail.com> |
I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes later
landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac but thankfully
no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a grass strip, at
the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear near the valve stem. I am
wondering whether the valve stem clipped the nose fork and caused the
problem. I had fitted the new axle mod a month earlier and did not have the
valve cap on. Interested in Grumpy's and any other experience.
Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for sharing the information Linn. I have a few months but plan on doing
it all myself.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93', PP 10/08'
Grayson, KY
Bldr# 40983
Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
Starting empennage 11/24/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283210#283210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Windshield install |
I want to post my experience with installing my front window yesterday
afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The window turned
out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting the window to
fit very well to the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping
off the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then mixed the
weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4
inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto
the flange right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set
the window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the
flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar
to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up
leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit
but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing
comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It really
makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is
also the way to go without question. It almost eliminates the strings
and puts on a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the
window, adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily
have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time
to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or
outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the
inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I
would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the
glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
>> 6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage
>> ribs that are very difficult to access with the engine in place. You
>> will want 2 sets of very small, but highly trained hands to help with
>> this step.
I forgot about those rivets - really perverse.
>>
>> Have fun.
> Fun??? Well, I am enjoying the journey. This is far more complex
> than building my Pitts ...... but the fun will come in the flying. My
> brain keeps the tune 'I'm a traveling man, made a lot of stop, all
> over the world ...... I want to see a lot more of my country before I
> croak!!!
Went to see "Up in the Air" last night (Clooney). A moving little movie
human connections and such, but the great aerial shots scattered
throughout had me longing for some flight... and not the airline style
of slumming around. It's ironic that we've done less flying during the
last 3 years of rolling our own, than we did in the previous 20. It's
been some of the most interesting aviation play ever but sure am missing
the clouds, and the places, and the people at those places. It's hard
to buck up for a 400 mile slog in the Maule when dreaming of '10! But
flying is flying - need a vacation.
Bill "flying the '10 in 10" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Linn,
Sorry for the misattribution on your list. You are right about the Pitts being
much simpler. I did a plans built Pitts S1S about 30 years ago. While building
all those ribs and stitching was repetitious, it was a stone simple airplane.
Also, access was great. There wasn't anything that you couldn't get both hands
on. The -10 wont be nearly as much fun, but my wife is looking forward to something
she can enjoy flying. She did one take off and landing in the Pitts, and
said never again.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283236#283236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor
shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead.
I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel
is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including
the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and
Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount
them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing
them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little
bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just
posted here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1
Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
> easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
> wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
> braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
> on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
> insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
>
> The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
> to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
> insulation to break it loose from the braid.
>
> There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
>
> Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I already had the pilot/co-pilot jacks mounted and wired .... and
changed my mind. I have a PS 3000 intercom going in ..... and decided
that hanging the headsets on my overhead console .... would drape the
headset wires across the cabin and I didn't want that. So, the headset
jacks will be mounted in the center console covers between the seat
backs to keep the cord yanking down to a minimum.. Goof plugs will fill
the old jack holes in the panel. I wish I had looked closer and taken
more pictures of flying 10s ..... but Sun-n-Fun is on the horizon. I'm
constantly amazed at the neat ideas that builders come up with.
I received my door latch SB kit yesterday. So sad that all the time and
expense of making up the SB kit just for CYA. The quality of the kit is
excellent .... the reason sucks.
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor
> shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead.
>
> I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel
> is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including
> the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and
> Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount
> them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing
> them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little
> bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just
> posted here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1
>
>
> Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
>> easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
>> wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
>> braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
>> on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
>> insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
>>
>> The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
>> to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
>> insulation to break it loose from the braid.
>>
>> There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
>>
>> Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
One other tidbit .... if you plan ahead real good (sometimes I did) you
can use short pieces of heat shrink in place of lacing cord or ty-raps.
Makes pulling bundles easier. Just make the shrinking part the last
thing!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flat Front Tyre |
Appears my flat was from the valve core. I had aired it up 2 days
prior before flying, so it was a fairly slow leak (appeared fine 1 hr
later after flying).
Had trouble getting the chuck to depress the valve core to allow air
into the tube, so my suspicion is the valve core got out of whack.
Replaced valve core and so far it is holding pressure. Had trouble
again getting the valve core depressed enough to allow air in.
Appears to me that the valve core recesses too far into the nose tube
(90 degree valve stem).
Gonna call Desser on Monday and ask about different valve core.
Going to look at all my pants during annual next month, and maybe
shave a little off the bottom of each one so that bottom of the pants
are slightly above the wheel rim.
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 24, 2010, at 3:55 AM, Geoff Bryant wrote:
>
> I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes
> later landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac
> but thankfully no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a
> grass strip, at the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear
> near the valve stem. I am wondering whether the valve stem clipped
> the nose fork and caused the problem. I had fitted the new axle mod
> a month earlier and did not have the valve cap on. Interested in
> Grumpy's and any other experience.
> Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South
> Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
> window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual
> due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
> surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it
> into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag
> and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft
> edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in place and
> gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we
> ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to hold
> everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up leather
> gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit but
> not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing
> comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It
> really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the
> product is also the way to go without question. It almost
> eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. After
> squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps and
> checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
> flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this
> way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of
> the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside
> tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
> windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing.
> I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to
> the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to
> know.
>
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Log book recommendations |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Does anyone have recommendations for airframe and engine log books; either paper
or software versions? I am also down to the last page in my pilots log; any
suggestions there? Thanks.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283294#283294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
For pilot's log I use the nice one from Sporty's (not even sure if they still sell
it). I also transcribe it onto an Excel spreadsheet - makes it easier every
year, at insurance renewal, to add up total, in type, night, last year, last
90 days, etc.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283306#283306
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Congratulations John from a fellow TX RV'er. Maybe in another decade my 10 will
be flying.
If you are in our part of the state stop by sometime (0TX1 - Pecan Plantation).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283317#283317
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" wrote:
> 68.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Carpenter
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
>> window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
>> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual
>> due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the
>> mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held,
>> scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end
>> of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at
>> the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in
>> place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange.
>> Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to
>> hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up
>> leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a
>> tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I
>> believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a point while the
>> glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze
>> bag to apply the product is also the way to go without question.
>> It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead.
>> After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
>> and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
>> flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this
>> way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of
>> the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside
>> tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
>> windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing.
>> I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to
>> the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to
>> know.
>>
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | more about the door SB |
I saw this on the door SB thread on VAF tonight. I don't recall seeing it
cross posted to this venue (sorry if it already was) so I thought I'd cross
post it here for those that might not read the VAF forums.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151
What caught my interest though was post #19 on page 2 by John Trollinger
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151&page=2>
&page=2
http://rv10.trollingers.com/vans_images/Drawing1.jpg
I don't recall anyone mentioning his approach on the matronics list of a way
to operate the SB latch without the exterior protrusion using the stock
Van's door mechanism. It seems pretty clever. One would have to cut a big
enough access hole in the door to make enough room to attach the piece.
Riveting might be a bit too permanent if you had to remove the door rods but
I think the idea has some legs to it. I wonder if it would flex the tube up
rather than lift the latch?
-Ben Westfall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there will
be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can spend
on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well, but
at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the great
trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for that
long, I don't think I will really need them.
Kent
#40710 Wings
>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." 1/21/2010 1:11 PM
>>>
Kent Ogden wrote:
Kent;
Few things to think about;
AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
Other things to think about:
Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
and indicator lights.
VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
inspection plate.
Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
landing lights?
Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
rivet up the lower skin.
Dr Fred
515FW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I don't know if that makes sense. The market of available items keeps
changing. I don't plan to rivet the bottom skin on until I am just
about ready to mount the wings to the fuselage. Pitot selection
depends on EFIS selection, as does AOA. Servos depend on autopilot
selection..True track and Dyon are supposed to physically interchange,
but not electronically. I don't think the market is mature on LED
lights, nor HID lights. Given that from the wings completion to wing
mounting is at least 6 months or more work, I want at least 1 more OSH
to go by before I finalize any of that.
Kelly
40866
Wings about complete, except for wiring and accessories.
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Kent Ogden wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
> accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there will
> be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can spend
> on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well, but
> at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the great
> trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for that
> long, I don't think I will really need them.
>
> Kent
> #40710 Wings
>
>>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." 1/21/2010 1:11 PM >>>
>
>
> Kent Ogden wrote:
> Kent;
>
> Few things to think about;
>
> AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
> worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
>
> Other things to think about:
> Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
> Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
> and indicator lights.
> VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
> Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
> inspection plate.
> Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
> landing lights?
>
> Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
> rivet up the lower skin.
>
>
> Dr Fred
> 515FW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring and Conduit |
My view on the tip tanks=85=85
Wife and kids don=92t fly legs more than 2.5hr legs=85
Weight. I have my airplane at 2800 and with people in the back seats I
hit
the limit.
60 gallons at reasonable fuel burn rates (12.2 rich of peak, 10.5 lean
of
peak (or better)), always provides for at least 4 hours of flight
time=85..
So for me it does not really work out to be a good deal. Just think of
how
many flights you will have where you will need the fuel=85=85=85=85.
Rene
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Ogden
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Wiring and Conduit
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there
will
be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can
spend
on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well,
but
at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the
great
trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for
that
long, I don't think I will really need them.
Kent
#40710 Wings
>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." 1/21/2010 1:11 PM
>>>
Kent Ogden wrote:
Kent;
Few things to think about;
AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
Other things to think about:
Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
and indicator lights.
VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
inspection plate.
Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
landing lights?
Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
rivet up the lower skin.
Dr Fred
515FW
=B7~=89=B2,
_____
g'=D3=D3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more negative
publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day, and keep the
product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a squeeze bag
makes a huge difference in application time as well. I bet it took me
little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the product in the bag
and apply the bead to the flange including the time to reposition a step
ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and I'm no artist! I did
experimented with other products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart
after 5 days curing) and in the end, I really feel confident with the
strength of the bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about
that.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam"
wrote:
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
Jim,
I'm glad you asked, I've been meaning to post this. This is about the third
or fourth version. We've been using it for about a year now without any
changes.
I use a spreadsheet, then print it on card stock. I can go back and enter
the data pretty easily, although it's not as foolproof as I imagined.
I keep several blank pages in the flight manual (binder), and use it as both
a flight log and maintenance logbook. I've worked with a lot of different
logbooks and I like this one best. It puts a lot of information all in one
place. My engine came with a logbook but I keep all the engine and airframe
entries on the cards.
When the pages get full, I file them away so I have a permanent record
outside the plane. The card stock holds up pretty well. I can stick the
transponder sign-offs, etc, right on the page.
While I'm sort of on the subject, I keep track of time with an
old-fashioined Hobbs meter running off of engine oil pressure. I had a
customer who absolutely had to have a Hobbs meter in his plane, because he
swore he'd need to refer to it regularly--he was right. I hate waiting for
all the glass to boot up before I can just jot down the airframe time, then
just turn it all off. The Hobbs is just really convenient, if a bit out of
place.
My two cents,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 5:19 PM, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for airframe and engine log books; either
> paper or software versions? I am also down to the last page in my pilots
> log; any suggestions there? Thanks.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283294#283294
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Haha, guilty as charged. I have those shows scheduled on the DVR. Just
goes to show you the power of television. My next build after the -10 is
going to be to a 450 Hemi powered, lifted, monster truck rock crawler
thing with FOOSE wheels! ;)
I did pick up a can of the bedliner. After just 1 day of drying, it
didn't seem exceptionally durable per se. Also, with just 1 coat, I
didn't necessarily see the powder coat illusion. Will keep testing it.
Jay
40533
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
I am just a bit surprised that you are vocally recommending a product
that did put a small crack in 1 of 5 windows..... I built 1 RV-10
with Weld on, and I personally will not use the product again.
Especially after talking with the windscreen manufacturer in Ohio and
'wishes Vans didn't recommend weld on.'. I have used SikaFlex with
great success and I don't need to worry about point loading as you do
with Weld On. Sure Weld On works if you happen to have parts that fit
perfectly and if you do everything exactly right, but if one of the
windows doesn't fit just right and you need to pull it in place, Weld
On is way less forgiving.
YMMV, That's just my experience.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 wiring
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 25, 2010, at 9:16 AM, "Dave Leikam" wrote:
> My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more
> negative publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day,
> and keep the product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using
> a squeeze bag makes a huge difference in application time as well.
> I bet it took me little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get
> the product in the bag and apply the bead to the flange including
> the time to reposition a step ladder from one side of the fuse to
> the other and I'm no artist! I did experimented with other
> products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart after 5 days curing)
> and in the end, I really feel confident with the strength of the
> bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about that.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Carpenter
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam"
> wrote:
>
>> 68.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Jeff Carpenter
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>>
>> Hi Dave,
>>
>> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on.
>>> The window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
>>> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the
>>> usual due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping
>>> the mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son
>>> held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off
>>> the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange
>>> right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the
>>> window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across
>>> the flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the
>>> wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and
>>> two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at specific points
>>> to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing
>>> anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
>>> point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it
>>> does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to
>>> go without question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on
>>> a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window,
>>> adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily
>>> have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of
>>> time to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at
>>> the aft or outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was
>>> minimal. Remove the inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have
>>> one minor crack in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a
>>> back window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to
>>> minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good results.
>>> Just thought you might like to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> RV-10 #40496
>>> N89DA
>>> Muskego, WI
>>>
>>>
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
On page 16-2 step 3. The second part of this step has us dimple the aft
most screw hole for a #8 flush head screw. Easy enough. Next it asks
us to machine countersink the rest of the screw holes for a #8 flush
head screw dimple. Do we countersink the skin- or- the wing walk
doublers underneath of the skin and just dimple the skin?
Next question is the last part of the step. We are asked to machine
countersink all the rivet holes that correspond to the W-1027A and
W-1027B wing walk doublers for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet. Again, do
we countersink the skin or just countersink the doublers and dimple the
skin?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
RV-10 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of scrap with
a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink. The test dimple
needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing will when you have the
wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers the gap between wing and
fuselage will sit high.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
Thanks Dave! I have had no issues with Weld-on, windows fit fine and
I'll probably go this route for the windscreen so your feedback is
appreciated.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more negative
publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day, and keep the
product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a squeeze bag
makes a huge difference in application time as well. I bet it took me
little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the product in the bag
and apply the bead to the flange including the time to reposition a step
ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and I'm no artist! I did
experimented with other products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart
after 5 days curing) and in the end, I really feel confident with the
strength of the bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about
that.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam"
wrote:
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
Bill,
Just countersink the skin. The doublers should be in place. If the
countersink bit has to cut any of the doubler to get the proper depth, it
will. As you know, with a countersink, the bottom of the wing skin will be
flush, so there is no need to dimple or countersink the doubler directly.
Same procedure for both operations.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 2:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
On page 16-2 step 3. The second part of this step has us dimple the aft
most screw hole for a #8 flush head screw. Easy enough. Next it asks us to
machine countersink the rest of the screw holes for a #8 flush head screw
dimple. Do we countersink the skin- or- the wing walk doublers underneath
of the skin and just dimple the skin?
Next question is the last part of the step. We are asked to machine
countersink all the rivet holes that correspond to the W-1027A and W-1027B
wing walk doublers for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet. Again, do we
countersink the skin or just countersink the doublers and dimple the skin?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
RV-10 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel pants
painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it is worth
every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
AFS 4500 SV's.
More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
I feel the same way. It does form a very strong bond based on some test
pieces I bashed around. Seems like all the alternatives may be a bit
easier to work with. The strenght of the alternatives may or may not be
all there but it may not be needed.
Clearly there are some challenges and warnings with Weld-on's use.
This list seems to have identified them along with work arounds and that
makes a big difference. Thanks all!
So, I used the tongues and clecos for the 4 windows, takes 15mins or
less to do the job, removed everything in about an hour - no cracks,
nice bonds, only spread some mess around on one of them when I didn't
use the bag.
Plan to do the windsheild and expect no problems.
Bill
> Thanks Dave! I have had no issues with Weld-on, windows fit fine and
> I'll probably go this route for the windscreen so your feedback is
> appreciated.
>
> Pascal
> *From:* Dave Leikam
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2010 6:16 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more
> negative publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day,
> and keep the product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a
> squeeze bag makes a huge difference in application time as well. I
> bet it took me little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the
> product in the bag and apply the bead to the flange including the time
> to reposition a step ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and
> I'm no artist! I did experimented with other products (3M Scotch
> Weld 2216 easily pops apart after 5 days curing) and in the end, I
> really feel confident with the strength of the bond using weld-on.
> That's all I have to say about that.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Jeff Carpenter
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" > wrote:
>
>> 68.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Jeff Carpenter
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>>
>> Hi Dave,
>>
>> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using
>>> weld-on. The window turned out as good as I would have
>>> hoped. I started by getting the window to fit very well to
>>> the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping off
>>> the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then
>>> mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a
>>> squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag
>>> and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the
>>> aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in
>>> place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the
>>> flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to
>>> the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of
>>> foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
>>> specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue
>>> joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from
>>> too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It
>>> really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to
>>> apply the product is also the way to go without question.
>>> It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
>>> bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window,
>>> adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still
>>> easily have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that
>>> bag. Plenty of time to work with this way. Also, by
>>> putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
>>> flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the
>>> inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack
>>> in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a back
>>> window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to
>>> minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good
>>> results. Just thought you might like to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> RV-10 #40496
>>> N89DA
>>> Muskego, WI
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
absolutely beautiful
On Jan 25, 2010, at 1:21 PM, aerosport1 wrote:
> >
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and
> wheel pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these
> photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass
> that it is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel
> with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I used an entire can on my forward fuse. As many coats as I could get on
until the can was empty. The stuff I used dried very fast so I sprayed all
the coats in a short time. I also primed first with self etching primer.
In testing, I found without the primer, the coating did not stick as well.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: Fake powder coat - Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before
panel?
>
> Haha, guilty as charged. I have those shows scheduled on the DVR. Just
> goes to show you the power of television. My next build after the -10 is
> going to be to a 450 Hemi powered, lifted, monster truck rock crawler
> thing with FOOSE wheels! ;)
>
> I did pick up a can of the bedliner. After just 1 day of drying, it didn't
> seem exceptionally durable per se. Also, with just 1 coat, I didn't
> necessarily see the powder coat illusion. Will keep testing it.
>
> Jay
> 40533
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>>
>> Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-)
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Beautiful job and great design.
Do Not Arhcive
> Subject: RV10-List: All dressed up
> From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
> Date: Mon=2C 25 Jan 2010 13:21:43 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
com>
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel
pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that i
t is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
Geoff,
VERY NICE!
Jim Combs (N312F)
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 4:21 PM, aerosport1
wrote:
> g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel
> pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it
> is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
Definitely inspired here - Really nice!
Bill "finishing up a morning session in the shop" Watson
aerosport1 wrote:
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel pants
painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it is
worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
So all the skin to doubler holes for the AN426 rivets get countersunk right
through the skin also? This won't remove too much of the skin to let the
rivet work properly?
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 1:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
>
> Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of
> scrap with a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink.
> The test dimple needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing
> will when you have the wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers
> the gap between wing and fuselage will sit high.
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40333
> N540XP (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:36:00
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
Correct......
There is nothing unique with countersinking these rivets as opposed to any
that you've done previously.
You do want to test the setting of your countersink cage on a piece of scrap
first.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
So all the skin to doubler holes for the AN426 rivets get countersunk right
through the skin also? This won't remove too much of the skin to let the
rivet work properly?
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 1:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
>
> Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of
> scrap with a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink.
> The test dimple needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing
> will when you have the wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers
> the gap between wing and fuselage will sit high.
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40333
> N540XP (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:36:00
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
All I can say about your 10 is "NICE JOB".- All I can say about my plane
is "it flies".--What I was told was that at altitude they'll look ident
ical!
Great job Geoff!
-
Don McDonald-
--- On Mon, 1/25/10, aerosport1 wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: All dressed up
Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 1:21 PM
m>
Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel p
ants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it
is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
AFS 4500 SV's.
More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Stella" <Sstella(at)incisaledge.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
When you countersink the skin it will take a little off the doubler but it
will leave plenty on the skin for the rivet.
Steve Stella
40654 Wings
N521RV reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
So all the skin to doubler holes for the AN426 rivets get countersunk right
through the skin also? This won't remove too much of the skin to let the
rivet work properly?
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 1:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
>
> Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of
> scrap with a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink.
> The test dimple needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing
> will when you have the wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers
> the gap between wing and fuselage will sit high.
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40333
> N540XP (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:36:00
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Help identify Lycoming hardware |
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wGhe7fWJwye94wS1XjFPNA?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE#5431122204574256322
Does anyone know what the intended purpose for this locknut is? It came
with the lycoming engine in one of the hardware bags. It came in a count
of 8. As far as i can tell, it is an Aluminum locknut. Never seen one of
these before.
Any ideas what its intended usage is for?
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Don
Don't think you did not do a nice job on yours. Yours is as nice as a lot
of them out there you should be very proud how it turned out.
Just my 2 cents.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: All dressed up
All I can say about your 10 is "NICE JOB". All I can say about my plane is
"it flies". What I was told was that at altitude they'll look identical!
Great job Geoff!
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/25/10, aerosport1 wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: All dressed up
Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 1:21 PM
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel
pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it
is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
AFS 4500 SV's.
More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
<http://combsfamily.phanpare.com/>
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
<http://forums.matronics.com/files/img_0337_283.jpg>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/=======================
<http://forums.matronics.com/files/img_0325_153.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
Thanks to all that replied. Also sorry for the "simple" question. I just
wanted to be sure I was doing the right thing and not destroying the wing
skins.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Steve Stella" <Sstella(at)incisaledge.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 12:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
>
> When you countersink the skin it will take a little off the doubler but it
> will leave plenty on the skin for the rivet.
>
> Steve Stella
> 40654 Wings
> N521RV reserved
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
> Britton
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 12:19 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk
> doublers
>
>
> So all the skin to doubler holes for the AN426 rivets get countersunk
> right
> through the skin also? This won't remove too much of the skin to let the
> rivet work properly?
>
> Bill
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 1:19 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
>
>>
>> Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of
>> scrap with a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink.
>> The test dimple needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing
>> will when you have the wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers
>> the gap between wing and fuselage will sit high.
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40333
>> N540XP (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 01:36:00
>>
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:46:00
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fuel Check Valve & Gascolator |
I purchased an Andair fuel check valve (non return valve)and gascolator wit
h my finishing kit, however I am yet to decide where to position both items
.=0A=0AMy initial thought is to-install the check valve after (down strea
m) the Floscan fuel flow transducer in the tunnel?=0A=0ACould anyone please
tell me where the ideal placement for the check valve would be?=0A=0AFor t
hose of you out there that have-installed a gascolator (I have the Andair
version), could you please indicate where you positioned the gascolator on
the firewall and the location of the drain line.=0A=0AAny pictures for eit
her the fuel check valve or gascolator installations would be very much app
reciated please.=0A=0AMany thanks in anticipation.-=0A=0AKind regards=0A
=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299-- (VH-XPP reserved)=0AAdelaide, South Austral
ia-=0A=0A=0A _______________________________________________________
___________________________=0ASee what's on at the movies in your area. Fin
d out now: http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Check Valve & Gascolator |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Ta da!
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 2:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Check Valve & Gascolator
I purchased an Andair fuel check valve (non return valve)and gascolator
with my finishing kit, however I am yet to decide where to position both
items.
My initial thought is to install the check valve after (down stream) the
Floscan fuel flow transducer in the tunnel?
Could anyone please tell me where the ideal placement for the check
valve would be?
For those of you out there that have installed a gascolator (I have the
Andair version), could you please indicate where you positioned the
gascolator on the firewall and the location of the drain line.
Any pictures for either the fuel check valve or gascolator installations
would be very much appreciated please.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Kind regards
Patrick Pulis
#40299 (VH-XPP reserved)
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________
See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now
<http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http:/au.movies.yahoo.com/se
ssion-times/> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version |
Anybody else with a Pro version AOA have problems with the dimmer function?
All else works O.K but can only see a faint display.
Appreciate any suggestions or clues on this particular problem.
John 40315
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14220
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version |
If it is always dim no matter what you do , the backlighting is bad.
It'll have to go back. Ask me how I know?
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2010, at 6:13 PM, "John Dunne"
wrote:
> Anybody else with a Pro version AOA have problems with the dimmer
> function?
>
> All else works O.K but can only see a faint display.
>
> Appreciate any suggestions or clues on this particular problem.
>
> John 40315
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.14220
> http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | AC Weight and Balance App |
Well, I got an Android phone right before Christmas and since it is an open
architecture I decided to try and hack out a weight and balance app for the
phone. After a lot of learning...I got it done. If you have the
appropriate hardware, let me know what you think. It can be found in the
Android market, under Applications, Tools. The name is AC Weight and
Balance. If you sort by date, it will be at the top..for a little while at
least.
The main screen allows you to put in the front seat weight, rear seat
weight, baggage weight and fuel weight.
Show chart...shows chart
Settings button leads you to the settings for both the graph and AC
AC1 . AC4 - lets you create settings for 4 aircraft.
If you hit the menu button, you will get two choices.Home and Empty CG Calc
The Empty CG Calc gives you the ability to calc an empty CG based on wheel
weights. If you hit the save button, it becomes the empty weight for that
aircraft.
I am not a software engineer..but I have stayed in a Holiday Inn before.
Your mileage may vary. J
Rene'
N423CF -- Flying
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks John.... of course I'm proud.=C2- In some areas I am just REALLY p
roud, and then in some others, just content.
Don
--- On Tue, 1/26/10, John Cumins wrote:
From: John Cumins <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: All dressed up
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 2010, 11:23 AM
Don
=C2-
Don=99t think you did not do a nice job on yours.=C2- Yours is as n
ice as a lot of them out there you should be very proud how it turned out.
=C2-
Just my 2 cents.
=C2-
John G. Cumins
President
=C2-
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
=C2-
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: All dressed up
=C2-
All I can say about your 10 is "NICE JOB".=C2- All I can say about my pla
ne is "it flies".=C2-=C2-What I was told was that at altitude they'll l
ook identical!
Great job Geoff!
=C2-
Don McDonald=C2-
--- On Mon, 1/25/10, aerosport1 wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: All dressed up
Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 1:21 PM
m>
Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel p
ants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it
is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
AFS 4500 SV's.
More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/=============
=========== Navigator to much much href="http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10
-List Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
===========
=C2-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Geoff, I was particularly fascinated by this shot in your album.
Because the leg fairings are not on you can visualize what the -10 would
look like as a retract, or just in flight, straight & level at 12,500',
maybe a little XM music in the background. Beautiful work on the 9GW.
Looks better than certified to me.
Robin
http://combsfamily.phanfare.com/3161550_4830915#imageID=84783324
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help identify Lycoming hardware |
I have twelve. I thought maybe for the exhaust but have not got that far
yet.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv(at)jline.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Help identify Lycoming hardware
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wGhe7fWJwye94wS1XjFPNA?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
> http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE#5431122204574256322
>
> Does anyone know what the intended purpose for this locknut is? It came
> with the lycoming engine in one of the hardware bags. It came in a count
> of 8. As far as i can tell, it is an Aluminum locknut. Never seen one of
> these before.
>
> Any ideas what its intended usage is for?
>
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ceramic coating on exhaust |
I ceramic coated the outside only on my exhaust and my heaters also crank o
ut the heat when barely opened. =0AI have 650 hours on mine and it is hold
ing up great. It does lose that original shine but has not cracked or peal
ed. =0A=0APeople have mentioned that if you do have problems you cannot we
ld it but I will cross that road if it happens. So far I have been very ha
ppy. =0A=0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____
___________________________=0AFrom: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>=0AT
o: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, January 26, 2010 10:39:09 PM=0ASubj
ect: RE: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust=0A=0A =0AChris,=0A
Let=0Ame explain what I know and extract backwards.=0AI=0Ahave:=0A=C2=B7
Forsling double ceramic coated exhaust system.=0A=C2=B7 We
ll documented heat issues (hot engine)=0A=C2=B7 S/S fire wall mount
ed heater valves=0A=C2=B7 Dual Heat Muffs (one cut down by 25% to p
roperly fit the exhaust=0Atube)=0A=C2=B7 Generally direct heating d
uct paths=0A =0AUnlike=0Amost of the -10 fleet I am unable to get enough he
at into my cabin. Tim and=0Aothers have noted that at HALF heat setting you
can bake Brownies. Ok, ok maybe=0Anot that hot but comfortable enough to f
ly in Wisconsin for gosh sakes. In my=0Aship with FULL heat and OAT
=99s at about 30F I am uncomfortable with a=0AT-Shirt, long-sleeved shirt a
nd a vest or beanie. For any length of flight I=0Ahave to bring gloves and
a few times was shivering a bit. I do have a little=0Aleak in my cabin whe
re the overhead console wraps around the door support=0Abracket but that is
not the problem. I have a pretty tight seal overall. Not=0Anearly enough h
eat is coming out of the heating system. I have checked=0Aconnections and t
he function of the heater valves; all good. The only thing I can=0Aput my f
inger on is that the double ceramic coating is doing what it=99s=0Aad
vertised to do; send the heat out the bottom of the tube. I have seen a=0Ad
emonstration of a hot Harley shut down and 15 seconds later you can grab th
e=0Aexhaust. Don=99t try that with your car exhaust.=0AI=0Ahave also
heard that some owners have been experiencing the coatings chipping=0Aor co
ming off the surface of the pipes. Mine look good externally so far (120=0A
hours) but who knows what they look like inside and who knows what it will
look=0Alike or perform like at 820 hours. =0AI=0Areally didn=99t give
the coating a second thought when ordering the pipes.=0AUpgrade, more powe
r, =9CSURE, I=99ll Take Two!=9D The coatings may=0Anot be
the problem but I am hard pressed to see what else it could be. Throw in
=0Athe potential to degrade and I would be just as happy to save the $ and
use=0Awhat has been on every other plane I have ever own or flown. Standard
exhaust=0Atubing. =0A =0AA=0Anote of personal privilege. I know people can
read into the written word many=0Adifferent things. I hate for some to tak
e away that I am always complaining about=0Aeverything. Blah, blah James Co
wl (and all it=99s ramifications), blah,=0Ablah Garmin, blah, blah LO
P and my famous %#@*&$! Painter The whole=0Aprocess was a learning
experience for me. Most issues are cleaned with just heat=0Aissues remaini
ng. LOP flight has given me a path to rest my engine while I=0Afigure thing
s out. I love the plane, love it=99s systems, I use it a=0Alot for w
ork & pleasure and surprisingly have stopped dreaming of what I=0Awant next
(ok, except for the 8A due to fly in 2010. Teehee). =0A =0ARobin
=0A =0A =0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-l
ist-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris=0AJohnston=0ASent: Tuesday, Ja
nuary 26, 2010 6:49 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Li
st: ceramic coating on exhaust=0A =0ANot to hijack, but why would you not c
eramic coat the=0Aexhaust again? That became a standard issue item for me
when I built=0Acars, and I expected to do the same for the airplane. What
gives?=0A =0Acj=0A =0A =0AOn Jan 26, 2010, at 5:37 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
=0A=0A=0ANo=0Amuffler. The exhaust is a Forsling exhaust with megaphone typ
e collector area.=0ALooks great, sounds great. Mine happen to be ceramic co
ated inside and out=0Awhich I would not do again.=0ABetter=0Aview of exhaus
t. Photo attached.=0AThe=0Aheat muff is a standard heat muff cut down (slig
htly) to fit a flat area of the=0Aexhaust on co-pilot side. Pilots side unt
ouched as you can see from the photo.=0AIf=0Ayou want a muffler I think oth
ers are using the Vetterman system. I have seen a=0Afew and they are beauti
ful units too. Others can surely comment better than me=0Aon those systems.
=0A =0AOf=0Anote as nice as these photos are, I am REALLY happy to
be past this=0Astage and burning 100LL and not fingertips.=0A =0ARobin=0A
=0A =0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-s
erver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper=0ASent: Tuesday, January 26
,=0A2010 4:48 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List:=0A
Fuel Check Valve & Gascolator=0A =0ARobin,=0A Real nice installation FWF!
What muffler and=0Aheat muff are you using?=0A =0AMarcus=0A40286=0A =0ADo
======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version |
Mine has been working perfectly for more than a year. Nice and bright
in daylight, and the dim button works as advertised at night. My only
complaint is that I have not figured out how to lower the volume on
the voice alerts from the AOA. It's way too loud for me.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 26, 2010, at 6:13 PM, John Dunne wrote:
Anybody else with a Pro version AOA have problems with the dimmer
function?
All else works O.K but can only see a faint display.
Appreciate any suggestions or clues on this particular problem.
John 40315
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14220
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
I have a modified Van's cowl and regular baffling. I bought this engine
used
and it had the cold air induction. I have not done any scientific or
side
by side tests to tell if I get more power. I know they get more power
on
the dyno at Barrett than a standard set up. Fuel economy is a direct
function of power produced. At full power I suspect I burn more because
of
the increased horsepower, but at cruse it should be the same.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall.- I get plenty of cabin heat.-
I do
not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust.- Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version |
When it yells "angle, angle, push, push", my wife says that it is obscene.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version
Mine has been working perfectly for more than a year. Nice and bright in
daylight, and the dim button works as advertised at night. My only complaint
is that I have not figured out how to lower the volume on the voice alerts
from the AOA. It's way too loud for me.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 26, 2010, at 6:13 PM, John Dunne wrote:
Anybody else with a Pro version AOA have problems with the dimmer function?
All else works O.K but can only see a faint display.
Appreciate any suggestions or clues on this particular problem.
John 40315
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14220
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
<http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/>
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
The cold air system adds 15-20 additional hp to the engine, so a stock compression
540 with cold air should run in the 275-280 range. Gary is correct regarding
fuel burn. Fuel burn should increase to 26 gallons/hour at full power.
With 9:1 compression, we see around 290-290 hp and up to around 300 hp with 10:1
compression. These are verified hp numbers based on years of testing 540s with
various compression/sump set ups. We don't encourage RV-10 drivers to go
10:1, due to reliability and TBO issues. It might interest you to know that Red
Bull pilots run 10:1 max in their race engines.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 8:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
I have a modified Van's cowl and regular baffling. I bought this engine used
and it had the cold air induction. I have not done any scientific or side
by side tests to tell if I get more power. I know they get more power on
the dyno at Barrett than a standard set up. Fuel economy is a direct
function of power produced. At full power I suspect I burn more because of
the increased horsepower, but at cruse it should be the same.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do
not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
Kelly,
You may want to take a look at Rod Bower's site
(http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/) . Not only does he have a nice
ram/alternate air solution, he also has a bottom scoop that will fit on a
standard cowl. He now has products for both horizontal and vertical sumps.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do
not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
Vetterman is now making an exhaust that will work with the Cold Air setup and
it's basically the same price as the Forsling. However where the Forsling is
"tuned" (equal length pipes) the Vetterman is not. Again, well known theoretical
and proven performance increase from equal length pies. I went with the
Vetterman because I was concerned about the heat output of the Forsling for cabin
heat but that sounds like it's not really an issue as long as you don't ceramic
coat or at least mask the muff area off.
I also went with the James cowl, but again, it was before Gary and others with
the experience in fiberglass had paved the way for modifying the original.
I have also heard that once you ceramic coat you cannot weld a pipe. Something
about it getting into the pores of the SS and how it blocks heat transfer during
the welding process can cause a porous and weak weld. Of course the real
advantage to ceramic coating is that it should keep the heat contained in the
pipe which increases exhaust velocity and scavenging but I don't think it really
helps much with our old big block engines and in some cases it seems it can
hurt.
If I was to do it today I would:
- Barrett Cold Air
- Stock cowl
- Baffles
- Uncoated Forsling exhaust
My $0.002
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ceramic coating on exhaust |
Thanks Rhonda. Answers my questions. Seems if we are to believe the
stories of 100LL demise, anything over stock compression might have issues.
Rhonda Bewley wrote:
>
> The cold air system adds 15-20 additional hp to the engine, so a stock compression
540 with cold air should run in the 275-280 range. Gary is correct regarding
fuel burn. Fuel burn should increase to 26 gallons/hour at full power.
>
> With 9:1 compression, we see around 290-290 hp and up to around 300 hp with 10:1
compression. These are verified hp numbers based on years of testing 540s
with various compression/sump set ups. We don't encourage RV-10 drivers to go
10:1, due to reliability and TBO issues. It might interest you to know that
Red Bull pilots run 10:1 max in their race engines.
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
> Tulsa, OK 74115
> (918) 835-1089 phone
> (918) 835-1754 fax
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
If you believe . . . . :D
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
Thanks Rhonda. Answers my questions. Seems if we are to believe the
stories of 100LL demise, anything over stock compression might have
issues.
Rhonda Bewley wrote:
>
> The cold air system adds 15-20 additional hp to the engine, so a stock
compression 540 with cold air should run in the 275-280 range. Gary is
correct regarding fuel burn. Fuel burn should increase to 26
gallons/hour at full power.
>
> With 9:1 compression, we see around 290-290 hp and up to around 300 hp
with 10:1 compression. These are verified hp numbers based on years of
testing 540s with various compression/sump set ups. We don't encourage
RV-10 drivers to go 10:1, due to reliability and TBO issues. It might
interest you to know that Red Bull pilots run 10:1 max in their race
engines.
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
> Tulsa, OK 74115
> (918) 835-1089 phone
> (918) 835-1754 fax
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
We have been coating the exterior of intake pipes and exhaust for this year's RB
engines we are building. One of the biggest problems with ceramic coating is
the quality of the application. We would never do the inside of intake pipes
because if it did chip off, it would go directly to the valves. Not a good
situation.
The guy I'm using to do my coating said that you have to grind off the coating
to reweld. We asked, because we do have to reweld intake pipes on the cold air
occasionally. You can always wrap your exhaust to try and get the same effect
on the scavenging.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
Vetterman is now making an exhaust that will work with the Cold Air setup and
it's basically the same price as the Forsling. However where the Forsling is
"tuned" (equal length pipes) the Vetterman is not. Again, well known theoretical
and proven performance increase from equal length pies. I went with the
Vetterman because I was concerned about the heat output of the Forsling for cabin
heat but that sounds like it's not really an issue as long as you don't ceramic
coat or at least mask the muff area off.
I also went with the James cowl, but again, it was before Gary and others with
the experience in fiberglass had paved the way for modifying the original.
I have also heard that once you ceramic coat you cannot weld a pipe. Something
about it getting into the pores of the SS and how it blocks heat transfer during
the welding process can cause a porous and weak weld. Of course the real
advantage to ceramic coating is that it should keep the heat contained in the
pipe which increases exhaust velocity and scavenging but I don't think it really
helps much with our old big block engines and in some cases it seems it can
hurt.
If I was to do it today I would:
- Barrett Cold Air
- Stock cowl
- Baffles
- Uncoated Forsling exhaust
My $0.002
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ceramic coating on exhaust
James cowl or Vans?
Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do not
> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AC Weight and Balance App |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
neat, wished someone would do this for iPhone. lbb
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283654#283654
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ceramic coating on exhaust |
IMO, the power increase from Cold Air is very real (so is the fuel
consumption @ WOT).
Any performance increases from the James cowl & plenum are unrecognizable
Tuned Forsling exhaust ceramic coated inside and out is less rediated
heat in the lower cowl and better scavenging. I took one of my heat
muffs off and only have heat supplied to 1/2 of the cabin. The coolest
OAT's I've flown in were 0 degs C. And we had no problem keeping the
cabin cozy, even had to reduce the valve somewhat.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 1/27/2010 7:15 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> James cowl or Vans?
> Is there a real difference in power or economy with the cold air
> induction and/or Forsling exhaust? I understand the theoretical for
> the cold air induction, and if the exhaust is better tuned, etc. Just
> wondering if the final result is more speed, more climb and/or better
> fuel economy, so I can sugar coat the $$ expenditure.
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM, gary wrote:
>
>> I have the same setup as Robin, Barrett cold air induction, Forsling
>> exhaust, and oil cooler on firewall. I get plenty of cabin heat. I do not
>> have ceramic coating on my exhaust. Just another data point.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2" thick.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283666#283666
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2" thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creation-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
Once the apps get written for this product I can see some real use in the c
ockpit. So far I've been underwhelmed by what's out there. This may be diff
erent. Gonna hold out until April until the better unit is released. Go to
www.apple.com and watch the movie about it. pretty cool. Dan
> Date: Wed=2C 27 Jan 2010 15:05:46 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM=2C jkreidler wrote:
t.com>
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499=2C 1.5 lbs
=2C 1/2" thick.
>
>
> <http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creat
ion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | John Trollinger <john(at)trollingers.com> |
perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look great
on it
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2"
> thick.
>
>
> <
> http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creation-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30
> >
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
Looks beautiful. But is there a GPS in it or not? What's a 'Digital
compass' and 'Assisted GPS (Wi-Fi + 3G model)'?? (per their Tech Spec)
EMNTK
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM, flying in Oz
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, 28 January 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Once the apps get written for this product I can see some real use in the
cockpit. So far I've been underwhelmed by what's out there. This may be
different. Gonna hold out until April until the better unit is released. Go
to www.apple.com and watch the movie about it. pretty cool. Dan
> Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 15:05:46 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2"
thick.
>
>
>
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creation
-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman
>
>
>
_____
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
Me, too. This is a huge winner to me. I always thought if only the
iphone and itouch screens coud be bigger, then you could actually so
much more with it, like actually use your whole hand for touch
interaction, see an entire news web page, chart, etc. etc. They rewrote
those basic apps to take advantage of the entire screen real estate,
instead of hacking it. Yeah, just like with the iphone, it'll be a
matter of time before apps will be available for any purpose.
jae
40533
Danny Riggs wrote:
> Once the apps get written for this product I can see some real use in
> the cockpit. So far I've been underwhelmed by what's out there. This
> may be different. Gonna hold out until April until the better unit is
> released. Go to www.apple.com and watch the movie about it. pretty
> cool. Dan
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
perfect for ForeFlight
On Jan 27, 2010, at 1:04 PM, John Trollinger wrote:
> perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will
> look great on it
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
> >
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5
> lbs, 1/2" thick.
>
>
> <http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creation-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30
> >
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/
> sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees.......
I can't wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo...
Bye-bye 696's....
Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts, etc....
We might be getting close to the holy grail....
From: John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look
great on it
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs,
1/2" thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-crea
tion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
Digital compass = magnetometer probably enhanced with GPS info
AGPS=GPS that uses wifi or cellular to acquire a faster location lock
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron McGann
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Looks beautiful. But is there a GPS in it or not? What's a 'Digital compa
ss' and 'Assisted GPS (Wi-Fi + 3G model)'?? (per their Tech Spec)
EMNTK
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM, flying in Oz
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, 28 January 2010 7:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Once the apps get written for this product I can see some real use in the c
ockpit. So far I've been underwhelmed by what's out there. This may be diff
erent. Gonna hold out until April until the better unit is released. Go to
www.apple.com and watch the movie about it. pretty cool. Dan
> Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 15:05:46 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
t.com>
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2
" thick.
>
>
> <http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creat
ion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman
>
>
________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail target="_new">Si
gn up now.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
The iPad does have BT so who needs a cable. Just because a BT device has b
atteries, it doesn't mean you can't hardwire it to power. ;-)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees.......
I can't wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo...
Bye-bye 696's....
Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts, etc.... We
might be getting close to the holy grail....
From: John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look great
on it
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill > wrote:
.net>>
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
com>
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2"
thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creatio
n-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I really like the way you think....................
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) [mailto:rvbuilder(at)sausen.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
The iPad does have BT so who needs a cable. Just because a BT device
has batteries, it doesn't mean you can't hardwire it to power. ;-)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees.......
I can't wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo...
Bye-bye 696's....
Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts, etc....
We might be getting close to the holy grail....
From: John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look
great on it
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs,
1/2" thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-crea
tion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
; - The RV10-List Email Forum
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< Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics
.
com/con
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
I'm not sure you need XM if you use ForeFlight
On Jan 27, 2010, at 1:33 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees=85=85.
>
> I can=92t wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo=85
>
> Bye-bye 696=92s=85.
>
> Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts,
> etc=85. We might be getting close to the holy grail=85.
>
>
> From: John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
>
> perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will
> look great on it
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5
> lbs, 1/2" thick.
>
>
>
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creati
on-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30
> >
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/
> sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
Yep, or just go to Apple's site. The really nice deal is the 250MB of AT&T 3G
for 14.99 a month or unlimited for $29. This looks to be the making of a nice
little flight bag addition. Although the name absolutely sucks, anyone else
see the MadTV skit a couple years back for the iPad. LMAO.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsjU0K8QPhs
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2" thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creation-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
My son-in-law says the high end model coming out in April will have wifi=2C
blue tooth and gps. Dan
From: ronrvbuilder(at)bigpond.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Date: Thu=2C 28 Jan 2010 08:07:49 +1100
Looks beautiful. But is there a GPS in it
or not? What=92s a =91Digital compass=92 and =91Assisted GPS
(Wi-Fi + 3G model)=92?? (per their Tech Spec)
EMNTK
Cheers=2C
Ron
VH-XRM=2C flying in Oz
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday=2C 28 January 2010
7:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I
want one - Apple iPad
Once the apps get written for this
product I can see some real use in the cockpit. So far I've been underwhelm
ed
by what's out there. This may be different. Gonna hold out until April unti
l
the better unit is released. Go to www.apple.com and watch the movie about
it.
pretty cool. Dan
> Date: Wed=2C 27 Jan 2010 15:05:46 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
> From: deej(at)deej.net
>
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM=2C jkreidler wrote:
January 18, 2010 - January 27, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fy