RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fz
January 27, 2010 - February 06, 2010
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499=2C 1.5 lbs=2C
1/2" thick.
>
>
> <http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creat
ion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 1/27/2010 5:34 PM, Danny Riggs wrote:
> My son-in-law says the high end model coming out in April will have
> wifi, blue tooth and gps. Dan
The low end ones all have that, similar to the iTouch. The high end
ones will also have 3G (data over the cell phone networks), similar to
the iPhone.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I would not write off Garmin just yet. Is someone going to write terrain
awareness, HSI, safe taxi, flight plan etc... software for the iPad that
will be able to drive an autopilot and integrate with other avionics?
The 696 is a stout unit that is hardware specific design for the
cockpit. Will it cut into some Garmin sales; sure. Will it kill 696 and
Aera sales? No. Plus sales to our certified brothers & sisters. Even
though the iPad is =BD to 1/3 the price of a 696 I have no problem with
the 696 pricing and can see having both in the cockpit. I remember
spending $3,000 on a steam gauge EGT/CHT display before purchasing
probes and having a certified aircraft mechanic install the unit at
about $1,000. Now you can buy a 696 AND an iPad for less than that.
Aren't we lucky to live during the digital revolution and before the end
of the world as we know it...
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 1:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees.......
I can't wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo...
Bye-bye 696's....
Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts, etc....
We might be getting close to the holy grail....
From: John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look
great on it
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs,
1/2" thick.
<http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creat
ion-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30>
has some pics and details of the presentation.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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le, List Admin.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Dave,
Thanks for sharing your spreadsheet. I can go with a nice, simple solution. I was
surprised more people didn't weigh in on this topic. Apparently we are not
as invested in our log books as we are in primer or door latches. [Laughing]
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283712#283712
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems AOA Pro Version |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
You have to open up the brain box to turn the volume down.. There's a pot inside
that allows you to adjust the volume.. (see page 27 of the manual)
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283714#283714
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
Except it doesn't appear to have a USB port. :-( (You can get an adapter
which gives you one 'tho -- who wants another dongle?)
Chris
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 1:33 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Garmin just passed out barf bags to their aviation employees=85=85.
>
>
> I can=92t wait for a USB connected XM & GPS antenna combo=85
>
>
> Bye-bye 696=92s=85.
>
>
> Approach plates, weather, music, movies, GPS, manuals, charts, etc=85. W
e
> might be getting close to the holy grail=85.
>
>
> *From:* John Trollinger [mailto:john(at)trollingers.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 27, 2010 3:04 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: OT - I want one - Apple iPad
>
>
> perfect size for a electronic flight bag... approach plates will look gre
at
> on it
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 3:05 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
>
>
> On 01/27/2010 02:54 PM, jkreidler wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
> >
> > Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/
2"
> thick.
>
> <
> http://i.engadget.com/2010/01/27/live-from-the-apple-tablet-latest-creati
on-event/?sort=newest&refresh=30
> >
>
> has some pics and details of the presentation.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
One question I have -- it has an operating limit of 10,000' altitude. What
happens if you go higher than that? (I understand for hard drives, but does
this device have any moving parts?)
Chris
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 11:54 AM, jkreidler
wrote:
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
>
> Looks like Apple just released the iPad... Starts at $499, 1.5 lbs, 1/2"
> thick.
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283666#283666
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
Well, I can understand that most people only see the logs very
occasionally. I see somebody's logbook almost every day. I definitely knew
what I wanted.
It's really nice being able to tally up the oil used when I send in the
sample. I guess they need to know how diluted it is.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 4:31 PM, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> Thanks for sharing your spreadsheet. I can go with a nice, simple solution.
> I was surprised more people didn't weigh in on this topic. Apparently we are
> not as invested in our log books as we are in primer or door latches.
> [Laughing]
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283712#283712
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | In-flight Entertainment & LCD Screens... |
Dear listers,
I've received quite a few emails asking about my entertainment installation in
the RV-8 project and specifically the components I used and how I installed them.
The links and text below documents the selection and process pretty well
and so I thought I'd pass it along to the Lists.
The front headrest with the monitor in it is the standard headrest I got from Classic
Aero for use with the Aviator seats. I made some serious modifications
to it however, and then sent it back to them for leather upholstering. It came
out really nice and isn't too heavy. I documented the whole process in my
blog in extreme detail here:
Initial installation using the white plastic shells (10 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73410&row=91
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73411&row=90
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73412&row=89
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73413&row=88
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73414&row=87
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73416&row=85
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73417&row=84
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73418&row=83
Installation redo with new and significantly improved black shells (5 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77846&row=48
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77847&row=47
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77848&row=46
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77849&row=45
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77850&row=44
Final installation with Leather upholstery completed (4 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86106&row=5
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86107&row=4
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
On the main instrument panel, I'm using a Kenwood DNX8120 entertainment system
with a 7" LCD touch screen. The DNX8120 has been replaced by the DNX9140 which
is very similar:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=67178&row=159
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/DNX9140
The rear screen is slaved to the DNX8120 though an AV controller that comes with
the screen. The rear LCD screen is also 7", but not a touch screen. Its a
Kenwood model number LZ-702IR:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/Mobile_Video/LZ-702IR
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7134_Kenwood+LZ-702IR.html
The rear view cam is also a Kenwood unit and integrates with the DNX very nicely:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/CCD-2000
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Possible Door Handle Solution |
Did any of you notice this door handle.
I am pretty impressed with this one. It does not address the case of accidentally
opening the door in flight but I'm not sure if a door has been lost because
of that.
Looks like you can purchase the set for $300.
Very simple and easily retrofit-able to the flying RV's with the standard door
handle.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53564
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible Door Handle Solution |
I saw this, and like it, I've got Coss handles and latches (similar to
Hendrcks). And I think I could easily adapt this to my "Finished"
airplane. So far this is the only 'solution' I've seen that I will
consider. IT seems that the one item that is uncertain is whether the
extra latch/catch is far enough aft to seal the deal.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 1/27/2010 10:07 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Did any of you notice this door handle.
> I am pretty impressed with this one. It does not address the case of
> accidentally opening the door in flight but I'm not sure if a door has
> been lost because of that.
>
> Looks like you can purchase the set for $300.
> Very simple and easily retrofit-able to the flying RV's with the
> standard door handle.
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53564
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ceramic coating on exhaust |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Why stop there.... Wouldn't it be nice if our GNS430W Database update downloaded
from XM.
Jason
[quote="dave.saylor.aircrafters(a"]Wouldn't it be cool to have current approach
plates come down the XM signal, or maybe via ADS-B? I have no idea if that's
even realistic but it would save a lot of trouble. The 696 takes about an hour
to update.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283741#283741
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | countersunk too deep |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
While countersinking below the upper attach bolt holes on the rear spar doubler,
I over shot on the first three or four holes. The metal is fairly thick. Is
this something I should worry about?
Also, what is a good way to de-bur in between the spaces on the flanges? I have
been using #600 sandpaper to try and knock off any rough spots.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283745#283745
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0135_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0134_144.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Those CSK's are a problem. You'll have a hard time getting the rivets to set properly.
If it were me, I'd replace the doubler. I'd also recommend testing
your microstop on scrap before moving to the actual parts. Because I'm lazy by
nature, I bought 4 microstops for different cutters. That way once they're
"dialed-in" I don't have to mess with them.
For deburring thick stock. I like to start with a vixen file to knock the rough
spots off and then finish with my 3M wheel on my bench grinder.
600 grit sand paper is way too fine IMO.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283749#283749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
IIRC those are #4 rivets, get the next size larger 5 or 6's and use
them, should be good to go. Btw one of the best pieces of advice I got
at this point in the build was to order a supply of extra rivets ( a
couple oz each) as well as some OOPS rivets. Unless you live close to a
supply source it will make your build go much faster.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
As Deems said, easiest fix is to move to the next rivet size. In this
case you probably want the standard rivet, not an oops, so that the
countersink is filled in. Do your deburring with medium scotchbrite
pad if you can't get a scotchbrite wheel on it. You will find that 1",
2" and 6" scotchbrite wheels are the best for deburring and polishing
edges. When you can't get a deburr tool on a hole, scotchbrite pad
works. Also, I've found small diamond files from Harbor Freight in
various shapes work well.
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 6:24 AM, JHearnsberger
wrote:
>
> While countersinking below the upper attach bolt holes on the rear spar doubler,
I over shot on the first three or four holes. The metal is fairly thick. Is
this something I should worry about?
>
> Also, what is a good way to de-bur in between the spaces on the flanges? I have
been using #600 sandpaper to try and knock off any rough spots.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283745#283745
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0135_125.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0134_144.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | countersunk too deep |
I would check the price of a new piece; otherwise you can oversize the rivet
to fill the countersink. I also notice from the photo that other visible
rivets are under CS. You need to test your counter sink stop on another
piece of metal prior to working on the good stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 6:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: countersunk too deep
-->
While countersinking below the upper attach bolt holes on the rear spar
doubler, I over shot on the first three or four holes. The metal is fairly
thick. Is this something I should worry about?
Also, what is a good way to de-bur in between the spaces on the flanges? I
have been using #600 sandpaper to try and knock off any rough spots.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283745#283745
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0135_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0134_144.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Chris,
I don't know if this is what you are trying to address, but I've been meaning to
post these pictures in case they help.
The Show Planes positioner places the flaps at preset 3 degrees up, even, half
down and all the way down. The owner/pilot I'm helping wanted to be able to "see"
the position of the flaps on his AFS monitor at night, so he got the slide
resistor sensor that feeds into that (I'll get that info for you if you want
it, don't have it with me, I think it is also by Show Planes).
The trick is to mount it in such a position that it gets full range of the flap
without exceeding the limits of the sensor -- about 1.25 inches. I kept fiddling
with it until I got it close, then made the little "arm" you see attached
almost to the bottom of the horn. This way, the arm pivots on the screw so that
it increases/decreases the radius of arch -- hence increases/decreases the
fine adjustment of the throw on the sensor. I made the connecting rod out of
hobby shop servo connecting rod. Double sided tape is a good idea for getting
the sensor at the right height and angle -- I just fiddled with ours.
It was very difficult to drill that hole on the horn while it is installed because
of the position and it is hardened -- broke more than one bit. If that is
what you are dealing with before you install it, I think that is a smart thing
to do! That pivot hole is as low as I could go and still get a nut on the
backside where the flange comes into the hub.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283763#283763
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor1_medium_680.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor2_medium_196.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Coming in on this mid stream but the position sensor is from Ray Allen Make a horn
out of aluminum and attach it with a hose clamp. Get some 4-40 ball links
and push rod from the hobby shop. Dubro sells a complete kit. Use it to tie the
horn to the sensor. The exact amount of throw is set by the height of the attach
point on the horn...lower less throw, higher more throw...as Lew said...little
fiddling and you'll get it perfect. Years of building R/C aircraft made
this a no brainier for me...I'll bet Ivan and Geoff breezed past this too!!
Rick Sked
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 07:15:35
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flap motor rod travel
Hey Chris,
I don't know if this is what you are trying to address, but I've been meaning to
post these pictures in case they help.
The Show Planes positioner places the flaps at preset 3 degrees up, even, half
down and all the way down. The owner/pilot I'm helping wanted to be able to "see"
the position of the flaps on his AFS monitor at night, so he got the slide
resistor sensor that feeds into that (I'll get that info for you if you want
it, don't have it with me, I think it is also by Show Planes).
The trick is to mount it in such a position that it gets full range of the flap
without exceeding the limits of the sensor -- about 1.25 inches. I kept fiddling
with it until I got it close, then made the little "arm" you see attached
almost to the bottom of the horn. This way, the arm pivots on the screw so that
it increases/decreases the radius of arch -- hence increases/decreases the
fine adjustment of the throw on the sensor. I made the connecting rod out of
hobby shop servo connecting rod. Double sided tape is a good idea for getting
the sensor at the right height and angle -- I just fiddled with ours.
It was very difficult to drill that hole on the horn while it is installed because
of the position and it is hardened -- broke more than one bit. If that is
what you are dealing with before you install it, I think that is a smart thing
to do! That pivot hole is as low as I could go and still get a nut on the
backside where the flange comes into the hub.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283763#283763
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor1_medium_680.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor2_medium_196.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
FYI, The flap motor travels 5 inches for the complete flap deployment.
Jim Combs (N312F)
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Chris,
>
> I don't know if this is what you are trying to address, but I've been
> meaning to post these pictures in case they help.
>
> The Show Planes positioner places the flaps at preset 3 degrees up, even,
> half down and all the way down. The owner/pilot I'm helping wanted to be
> able to "see" the position of the flaps on his AFS monitor at night, so he
> got the slide resistor sensor that feeds into that (I'll get that info for
> you if you want it, don't have it with me, I think it is also by Show
> Planes).
>
> The trick is to mount it in such a position that it gets full range of the
> flap without exceeding the limits of the sensor -- about 1.25 inches. I
> kept fiddling with it until I got it close, then made the little "arm" you
> see attached almost to the bottom of the horn. This way, the arm pivots on
> the screw so that it increases/decreases the radius of arch -- hence
> increases/decreases the fine adjustment of the throw on the sensor. I made
> the connecting rod out of hobby shop servo connecting rod. Double sided
> tape is a good idea for getting the sensor at the right height and angle --
> I just fiddled with ours.
>
> It was very difficult to drill that hole on the horn while it is installed
> because of the position and it is hardened -- broke more than one bit. If
> that is what you are dealing with before you install it, I think that is a
> smart thing to do! That pivot hole is as low as I could go and still get a
> nut on the backside where the flange comes into the hub.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done!
> On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283763#283763
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor1_medium_680.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor2_medium_196.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
If you are using the Vertical Power (VP-200) you will need the Ray Allen Pos-12
sensor. In speaking to Marc Ausman of Vertical Power he tells me to use only
one inch of the available 1.25" of travel and then center this one inch of travel
in the overall travel as near the ends the sensor is not very accurate.
As rick accurately pointed out, years of experience in R/C modeling made this an
easy install. Go to your local hobby shop and get some 6-32 threaded rod, a
6-32 quick link for the sensor end and a 6-32 ball link for the other end.
Unfortunately I am away right now and don't have access to the computer with all
the pictures I have of this install but if you are interested the PM me and
I will send you some when I get back.
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Finishing
C-GMDV reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283776#283776
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
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DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | christopher johnston <cjohnston(at)popsound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AC Weight and Balance App |
on the topic of this... a co-worker was itching to try to write an
app for the Iphone, and I told him that one of my personal pet peeves
was the lack of focus by many pilots on weight and balance. The
biggest reason for this is that it can get complicated, so it gets
overlooked, or "eyeballed". He wrote an app for Iphone that is pretty
simple, but I've found to be extremely handy. For me, I'm always
really interested to correlate the behavior of the aircraft with where
the CG is on any given flight, and this lets me do that. he also used
my RV-8 for the logo, so I have a bit of a bias!
info is here:
http://montyscode.webs.com/
cj
On Jan 27, 2010, at 9:59 AM, lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> neat, wished someone would do this for iPhone. lbb
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283654#283654
>
>
Chris Johnston (CJ)
Re-recording Mixer
POP Sound
625 Arizona Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.587.1255 (direct)
310.587.1222 (fax)
cjohnston(at)popsound.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
You can also use a Whitney Punch to punch a small thin piece of aluminum out then
dimple it. Available from Aircraft Spruce. Be careful to check countersink
cutter depth after using for a dimpled skin to nest in, as it is set about .005"-.015"
deeper(depends on dimpled skin thickness). Then when you use it next
time it will cut way too deep for just a rivet to set in. Ask me how I know. Now
I always adjust it shallow when I am finished with it. Also be careful countersinking
near ends of a flange as there is no support on one side and you can
easily go way to deep and oblong. Again, ask me how I know. I now look at countersink
foot and flange from the side when doing the last hole and do not let
csk foot drop below flange surface. Also use slow speed and Boelube when cutting
to improve csk'ing. Have fun. I sure am.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY
Bldr# 40983
Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
Starting empennage 12/01/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283809#283809
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I have been wondering about how much door flex plays into the equation. I
tried mine and it will only flex outward only about 1/8 to 3/16" no matter
how much I push out while it is latched. I have the metal pin receptacles.
I am wondering if some doors flex much more adding to the possibility of
unlatching.
How much to others doors flex while latched?
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
For those early RV-10 builders, remember that Van's original doors on the prototype
had a bowing problem. I recall them discussing it at the RV-10 forum at
OSH and citing that as the reason for the original finishing kit delays. That's
when they put the reinforcing graphite strips in the door shells and proclaimed
the issue resolved. There were never doors delivered to customers without
the graphite reinforcement.
As others have said, it very well may be that some have an issue with the internal
3-D cloth not being properly installed. And, having the pins be a "comfortable"
fit rather than really tight could also easily be a factor.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
:-)
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283854#283854
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ipad_577.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Mine are the same as yours, Gary. Very little flexing. I have watched
the pilot door during descents at speeds near Vne and see the same.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 28, 2010, at 3:49 PM, gary wrote:
I have been wondering about how much door flex plays into the
equation. I tried mine and it will only flex outward only about 1/8
to 3/16=94 no matter how much I push out while it is latched. I have
the metal pin receptacles. I am wondering if some doors flex much
more adding to the possibility of unlatching.
How much to others doors flex while latched?
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
You may want to take a look at what Robin Marks posted (with photos)
under this subject line:
RE: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
A hydraulic press was used. I took the same route and it seems to have
worked great. No cutting required. Thanks Robin!
You may also want to check out the Tosten/CH stick here:
http://tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/cs-8-aircraft-grip.html
I liked the Infinity but it had 1 or 2 more switches more than I
wanted. I checked out the Tosten and liked it a bit more. The photo on
the site gives the impression that it may looks a bit 'chintzy' with
center seam and all. But in fact it has a quite nice look and feel. A
bit more subdued than the Infinity but equally robust. Enough buttons
for everything plus 1 in my thinking. It appears that the grip can be
mounted so that it freely rotates while firmly mounted (Think about
switching hands on a 'handed' molded grip). Anyway, I have it, I've
shortened the stick and wired it up. Haven't flown it yet.
Bill "90% done, 90% to go" Watson
Rene Felker wrote:
>
> John, that is what I have in mine and Scott also. Scott has some pictures
> on his site on what you need to do with the stick to make it fit. Next time
> we run into each other out at the airport, you can do the check it out
> thing. My annual is due in March and I will have the airplane apart
> then......
>
> Rene
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 10:24 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: All dressed up
>
>
> Geoff,
> What stick grips are those?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron trim servo |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Guys,
I'm following up on Linn's advice to teach myself about the Parallax micro controllers
and servos for aileron/rudder trim ... not for this project, but for the
next one down the road.
It looks like there are MANY small hobby servos out there (Futaba) but with many
different torque capacities. Can somebody who's been this path before give
me a model number that works? These are durable and powerful enough? Probably
not a good idea to put them under the cowl to control air flow to oil cooler,
etc.?
I haven't gotten into it yet, but I'm also wondering how you get the power supply
down to 9v for the Stamp board?
I know it's easier to just order Van's, etc. but I really like the challenge and
learning opportunity.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283871#283871
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing at
all, and they don't flex, either.
I never thought mine bowed either, but last week I took a short flight and took
some pictures of my door.
The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the back
of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is with all
my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents open flying
at 150 KIAS, both at 4500 Ft.
It looks like with the vents closed, I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KIAS with
all my vents and freezing my self to death, I have 1/8 inch bow. I have the Rivet
Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the ground when closing
the doors.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim servo |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm following up on Linn's advice to teach myself about the Parallax
> micro controllers and servos for aileron/rudder trim ... not for this
> project, but for the next one down the road.
>
> It looks like there are MANY small hobby servos out there (Futaba)
> but with many different torque capacities. Can somebody who's been
> this path before give me a model number that works?
I used the one from Parallax (it's a futaba) .... just because I was
ordering other stuff and already had one. I needed two for aileron and
rudder trim.
> These are durable and powerful enough?
Well, it depends on the application, of course. I think any of them
would move a small trim tab. They make really powerful ones that may
even be able to be used as a door latch!
> Probably not a good idea to put them
> under the cowl to control air flow to oil cooler, etc.?
They're pretty rugged. Don't know for sure until someone tries it.
>
> I haven't gotten into it yet, but I'm also wondering how you get the
> power supply down to 9v for the Stamp board?
LM7809 available from Radio Shack. Cheaper elsewhere, but not with
shipping!!! I had used the BS2e on 12 V, but the voltage difference
between that and the serial line (5V) will fry the serial port. Worked
great until I tried to program it again!!!
>
> I know it's easier to just order Van's, etc. but I really like the
> challenge and learning opportunity.
I wanted to have my trim equipment inside the surface being moved, and
the small airplane servo fit the bill.
Linn
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done! On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283871#283871
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim servo |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Having quite a bit of R/C servo experience and Ray Allen being one of the first
servo manufac. of servos for heavy duty use I can't see adapting some of the
high speed/torq coreless bb servos for full scale use.
In the large scale and ducted fan/turbine R/C aircraft the precise high torq BB
servos really do fit the bill. For trim tabs you might as well buy a sail winch
servo.. R/C servos as far as I know always draw current to hold position.
For a long flight your asking that servo to maintain position and work constantly
leading to early failure and not designed for that kind of extended use like
the Ray Allen trim servo which is geared to hold position all the time regardless
if it has power...just something to think about...
Rick Sked
------Original Message------
From: Lew Gallagher
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 28, 2010 6:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim servo
Hey Guys,
I'm following up on Linn's advice to teach myself about the Parallax micro controllers
and servos for aileron/rudder trim ... not for this project, but for the
next one down the road.
It looks like there are MANY small hobby servos out there (Futaba) but with many
different torque capacities. Can somebody who's been this path before give
me a model number that works? These are durable and powerful enough? Probably
not a good idea to put them under the cowl to control air flow to oil cooler,
etc.?
I haven't gotten into it yet, but I'm also wondering how you get the power supply
down to 9v for the Stamp board?
I know it's easier to just order Van's, etc. but I really like the challenge and
learning opportunity.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283871#283871
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Now that is good science...Good work.
Thats why I put a spider foam block laminated between the door halves in th
e area shown. It acts like a shear web between the skins. There is a lot of
open air space in that location of the door.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
> From: gary(at)wingscc.com
> Date: Thu=2C 28 Jan 2010 19:38:06 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing
at all=2C and they don't flex=2C either.
>
> I never thought mine bowed either=2C but last week I took a short flight
and took some pictures of my door.
> The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the
back of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is
with all my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents
open flying at 150 KIAS=2C both at 4500 Ft.
> It looks like with the vents closed=2C I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KI
AS with all my vents and freezing my self to death=2C I have 1/8 inch bow.
I have the Rivet Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the gro
und when closing the doors.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
>
>
>
>
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wApx6cZ/z0qDbL/z6Sf9/wAf/E1qnHqDv2P/2Q=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim servo |
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Having quite a bit of R/C servo experience and Ray Allen being one of
> the first servo manufac. of servos for heavy duty use I can't see
> adapting some of the high speed/torq coreless bb servos for full
> scale use.
The Ray Allen servo's are just a motor with gear train, needing to run
the motor forward and backwards. It has no 'positioning' capability
other than when you let your finger off the switch. The model airplane
servos are pulse width modulated (PWM) and seek a position based on the
pulse width.
>
> In the large scale and ducted fan/turbine R/C aircraft the precise
> high torq BB servos really do fit the bill. For trim tabs you might
> as well buy a sail winch servo..
? didn't understand that one. All I'm moving is a short length of hinge.
> R/C servos as far as I know always
> draw current to hold position. For a long flight your asking that
> servo to maintain position and work constantly leading to early
> failure and not designed for that kind of extended use like the Ray
> Allen trim servo which is geared to hold position all the time
> regardless if it has power...just something to think about...
The MA servos seem to last a whole lot longer than the MAs do!
Once the MA servo gets to it's commanded position .... nothing moves
until the pulse width changes. True, it consumes a little power, but
it's miniscule.
I'm using the Ray Allen servo for the elevator trim only because it was
part of the kit when I bought it. I'd much rather have a smart servo
that moves in small increments independent of how quick I am on the
switch handle.
The only downside to using the MA servo is having to create the pulse width.
Linn
>
> Rick Sked ------Original Message------ From: Lew Gallagher Sender:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Jan 28, 2010 6:22 PM Subject:
> RV10-List: Aileron trim servo
>
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I'm following up on Linn's advice to teach myself about the Parallax
> micro controllers and servos for aileron/rudder trim ... not for this
> project, but for the next one down the road.
>
> It looks like there are MANY small hobby servos out there (Futaba)
> but with many different torque capacities. Can somebody who's been
> this path before give me a model number that works? These are
> durable and powerful enough? Probably not a good idea to put them
> under the cowl to control air flow to oil cooler, etc.?
>
> I haven't gotten into it yet, but I'm also wondering how you get the
> power supply down to 9v for the Stamp board?
>
> I know it's easier to just order Van's, etc. but I really like the
> challenge and learning opportunity.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done! On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283871#283871
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
Has anyone taken the time to create a 3D model of the RV-10? I would like
something to use to help in paint scheme design. I tried the aircraft
painter that is available on the web, works OK, but it doesn't allow very
much precision (control) in how lines transition from one surface to
another.
Van's will not give me a model.....
Thanks, Jason
N44YH - Flying
Sheboygan Falls, WI
4 Partner Build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Disregard...after reviewing archives, it appears that even the newer
valve isn't good for much more than 300 hrs.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Thanks for the research, Kelly..
I'll dig a little deeper into my wallet now.
Good thing it's payday.
If you get a minute, do you mind sharing those previous threads? I'd
like to take a walk through them.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Disregard...after reviewing archives, it appears that even the newer
valve isn't good for much more than 300 hrs.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Kelly McMullen
wrote:
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of fitting
my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to narrow
the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are pretty good
as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
In short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut
plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin
frame.
-Rob
On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry about it
> too much. I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
>
> Thanks again..
>
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn wrote:
>
>> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
>> together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
>> bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
>> together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the
>> very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
>> different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be,
>> and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the gluing went
>> well, but it was really messy!!!
>>
>> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>>
>> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier
>> since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
>> Linn
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door,
>>> but
>>> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
>>>
>> SNIP!
>>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
>
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in the rear
bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
Tim Olson wrote:
> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing at
all, and they don't flex, either.
I never thought mine bowed either, but last week I took a short flight and took
some pictures of my door.
The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the back
of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is with all
my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents open flying
at 150 KIAS, both at 4500 Ft.
It looks like with the vents closed, I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KIAS with
all my vents and freezing my self to death, I have 1/8 inch bow. I have the Rivet
Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the ground when closing
the doors.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry I wasn't clear... I meant leave about 3/8" extra.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:34 AM, Jae Chang wrote:
> Rob... i am a little confused. you say you are having to build up the lower
> edge, but then you say to cut plenty off the lower edge.
>
> Can you explain? I have my doors fitted without seals. I know it's going to
> require more trimming down of the door edge, once i make a decision on the
> type of door seals if any i want. not looking forward to it.
>
> jae
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of
>> fitting my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to
>> narrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are
>> pretty good as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top. In
>> short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut plenty
>> (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin frame.
>> -Rob
>>
>> On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman > rv10rob(at)gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
>> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry
>> about it too much. I will now have to go find something else to
>> worry about.
>> Thanks again..
>> -Rob
>>
>> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn > > wrote:
>>
>> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots
>> door halves together. Attached is picture. You can see the
>> tabs I used to hold the bottom door tight to the fuselage.
>> The door halves fit really well together, and did fit the
>> contour of the fuselage with the exception of the very top
>> where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
>> different in the area of the third cleco up where the
>> windshield will be, and I just filled that with epoxy/milled
>> fiber. All in all, the gluing went well, but it was really
>> messy!!!
>>
>> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>>
>> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole
>> lot easier since I didn't trim the passenger side like the
>> pilot side!!!
>> Linn
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>>
>> Linn
>>
>> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the
>> bottom of the door, but
>> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for
>> you.
>>
>> SNIP!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Wings
>>
>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
I'm with you..............I used the scribe line as a guide and ended up wi
th less flange on the bottom of the door than desired. Still trying to det
ermine the best way to solve.
Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 08:22:20 -0800
Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
From: rv10rob(at)gmail.com
Just to close the loop on this=2C now that I'm in the final stages of fitti
ng my doors=2C I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to n
arrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are pret
ty good as-is=2C and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
In short=2C for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet=2C cu
t plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabi
n frame.
-Rob
On Fri=2C May 29=2C 2009 at 8:43 PM=2C Rob Kochman wrot
e:
Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably conservativ
e for now and expect to cut more later=2C but not worry about it too much.
I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
Thanks again..
-Rob
On Thu=2C May 28=2C 2009 at 11:56 AM=2C linn wr
ote:
Les=2C thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves t
ogether. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the bott
om door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well together=2C
and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the very top
where the hinges go. Also=2C the angle of the two halves was different in
the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be=2C and I just
filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all=2C the gluing went well=2C
but it was really messy!!!
Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier s
ince I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
Linn
Les Kearney wrote:
Linn
I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door=2C
but
if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
SNIP!
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
John I like the idea of adding some substance to the door in there but forg
ive me but what is a spider foam block?
From: indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
Date: Thu=2C 28 Jan 2010 20:40:35 -0800
Now that is good science...Good work.
Thats why I put a spider foam block laminated between the door halves in th
e area shown. It acts like a shear web between the skins. There is a lot of
open air space in that location of the door.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
> From: gary(at)wingscc.com
> Date: Thu=2C 28 Jan 2010 19:38:06 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing
at all=2C and they don't flex=2C either.
>
> I never thought mine bowed either=2C but last week I took a short flight
and took some pictures of my door.
> The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the
back of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is
with all my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents
open flying at 150 KIAS=2C both at 4500 Ft.
> It looks like with the vents closed=2C I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KI
AS with all my vents and freezing my self to death=2C I have 1/8 inch bow.
I have the Rivet Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the gro
und when closing the doors.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
>
>
> <= Archive Search & Download=2C 7-Day Browse=2C Chat=2C FAQ=2C
> ===================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I'm building mine up with epoxy/flox. It's going to take a lot of sanding
and filling to get it to look right. In retrospect, I should have at least
saved the trimmings when I did the initial cut.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 12:59 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <
roxianmike(at)msn.com> wrote:
> I'm with you..............I used the scribe line as a guide and ended
> up with less flange on the bottom of the door than desired. Still trying to
> determine the best way to solve.
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 08:22:20 -0800
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: rv10rob(at)gmail.com
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of
> fitting my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to
> narrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are
> pretty good as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
>
> In short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut
> plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin
> frame.
>
> -Rob
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry about it
> too much. I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
>
> Thanks again..
>
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn wrote:
>
> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
> together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
> bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
> together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the
> very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
> different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be,
> and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the gluing went
> well, but it was really messy!!!
>
> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>
> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier
> since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
> Linn
>
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>
> Linn
>
> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door,
> but
> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
>
> SNIP!
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
>
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listronics.comww.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Kit for sale |
| From: | "rucky" <rucky(at)netspace.net.au> |
Bill
Has this project been sold.
if not is there any photos to view.
Cheers Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283976#283976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Kit for sale |
sold
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rucky
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV8 Kit for sale
Bill
Has this project been sold.
if not is there any photos to view.
Cheers Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283976#283976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I just got a Bogie-Bar from ACS. I assume that it fits over either end of
the nose gear axle bolt. Is this correct? If so, it seems that the Bogie-Bar
spread is about 1/2" too wide to allow it to seat on the bolt. Am I missing
something here?
Inquiring minds need to know
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
It fits over the nose wheel fork aluminum block hex bolts that hold the blocks
to the fork
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 18:45:48
Subject: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
SXQgZml0cyBvdmVyIHRoZSBib2x0cyB0aGF0IGhvbGQgdGhlIHRyYXBhem9pZCBzaGFwZWQgYWx1
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I did the same thing. Cutting to the scribe line on everything except the bottom
works fine. I'll need to build it back up - but not too much. Dave Saylor gave
me the best advice. Build it back up with flox and use dacron peel ply.
The real question is why we are building an Aluminum airplane and doing so much
plastic work?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284000#284000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hmmmm
Trapazoid. Damn, I wish I paid more attention in geometry class. That's
a 12 sided whatzit isn't it....
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: January-29-10 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
It fits over the bolts that hold the trapazoid shaped aluminum spacers
in. These thread into the sides of the nosewheel fork.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri Jan 29 17:45:48 2010
Subject: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
Hi
I just got a Bogie-Bar from ACS. I assume that it fits over either end
of the nose gear axle bolt. Is this correct? If so, it seems that the
Bogie-Bar spread is about 1/2" too wide to allow it to seat on the bolt.
Am I missing something here?
Inquiring minds need to know
Cheers
Les
#40643
=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=03g=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I was thinking it might be an option to build up the door threshold rather
than the door................I have some conern that building up the flange
on the door might be easy to chip or break off later...........it sounds l
ike others are having luck building up the door flange so I guess I will go
that route for now.........ugh
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: johngoodman(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 18:27:36 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> I did the same thing. Cutting to the scribe line on everything except the
bottom works fine. I'll need to build it back up - but not too much. Dave
Saylor gave me the best advice. Build it back up with flox and use dacron p
eel ply.
> The real question is why we are building an Aluminum airplane and doing s
o much plastic work?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Engine on=2C wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284000#284000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> I was thinking it might be an option to build upthe door threshold rather than
the door................I have some conern thatbuilding upthe flange on the
door might be easy to chip or break offlater...........it sounds likeothers are
having luck building up the door flange so Iguess I will go that route for now.........ugh
I think we were always talking about the canopy flange, not the door.
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284005#284005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
TG9sLi4uLnRyaWFuZ2xlIHdpdGggYSBmbGF0IHNwb3Qgb24gdGhlIDkwIGRlZ3JlZSBzaWRlLi4u
Lml0cyBwbGVudHkgc3Ryb25nIHRvIHRvdyB0aGUgcGxhbmUuLi4uZXZlcnlvbmUga25vd3MgdGhl
IHRyYXBhem9pZCBpcyB1c2VkIGluIHRoZSBiaWcgdG9wIHRvIHN3aW5nIG9uISEhDQpTZW50IHZp
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IGZvcm1hdC4NCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | heat scat tube and fuel valve |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Apparently there are differences in the quick build kits regarding fuel valve bracket
height and scat tube traveling past the valve. If the scat tube is suppose
to go above the valve there is not enough room for mine. Is the scat tube
suppose to go under the fuel valve or does the bracket need to be moved down?
What are others doing?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284020#284020
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
If you have an earlier version (fuselage sent before about March 2008) the valve
is relatively high, and does not have an extension shaft. Kits and QB's sent
after that time have the fuel valve mounted lower, rotated 180 degrees, and have
an extension shaft. In either case, the heat SCAT goes above the valve. For
the earlier kits it is necessary to squash the scat somewhat to fit thru. Some
have made fiberglass tubes to channel the air thru this area. I think one of
the reasons for moving the valve lower was to allow more room for the scat.
(Other reasons are to avoid the cross over in tubing, and to allow for a positive
detent in the various positions.)
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284021#284021
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I mentally struggled with that for a long time. Then I bought an Andair, placed
it a little more forward, used Bonaco steel braided hoses, and there was plenty
of room.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284032#284032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I have tried and tried to find mention in the plans for the procedure
for countersinking or dimpling the aft spar flange for the lower skin. I
called Vans and was told to do it using standard procedures which was to
dimple, then countersink to get the required amount of depth to accept
the skins. I was also told that the plans don't specify that procedure
for the QB, because back in the plans where the other skins are attached
in the Philippines, that procedure is specified, and I am supposed to
review all that previous work, step by step, as I'm the manufacturer,
not some QB'er. I humbly agreed, and went back AGAIN to review the wing
plans step by step, and still couldn't find it (it's probably there, I
just couldn't find it). Anyway, I don't remember ever using that
procedure, dimple then countersink, on this project or the RV8 I built.
Reviewing chapter 5, we're told to dimple up to a certain thickness,
then beyond that , countersink, just as I remember. Screw it, I'll drill
out a QB installed rivet on the inboard skin, and see what they did.
Viola, it's countersunk, just as what I'd expect. So that's what I plan
on doing to the rest of this .060 spar flange, countersink it. Anyone
have any info on this, that I can't find.
Chris Hukill
Frustrated, but at least not covered in fiberglass dust.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/Sec48GearLegAndWheelFairings?feat=directlink
There is a picture of mine and a little mod that was necessary for me to
do. While on the ground, I couldn't hold everything in alignment to fit
the bolt thru, otherwise.
Jae
40533
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
> =EF=BB Lol....triangle with a flat spot on the 90 degree
> side....its plenty strong to tow the plane....everyone knows the
> trapazoid is used in the big top to swing
> on!!!i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I can fit the scat tubing under the valve and between the fuel lines, I've got
to believe others have done that with earlier kits, could or would there be a
condition for vapor lock, is that the issue?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284041#284041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Got it. Thanks John
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: johngoodman(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 18:44:58 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> > I was thinking it might be an option to build up=EF=BDthe door thres
hold rather than the door................I have some conern that=EF=BDbu
ilding up=EF=BDthe flange on the door might be easy to chip or break off
=EF=BDlater...........it sounds like=EF=BDothers are having luck buil
ding up the door flange so I=EF=BDguess I will go that route for now....
.....ugh
>
>
> I think we were always talking about the canopy flange=2C not the door.
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Engine on=2C wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284005#284005
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
Jae, great idea to keep things together, I usually spend way too much time with
those parts. Looks like something for the to-do list on the next annual.
One lesson learned with the tow bars. While flying without wheel pants I let a
lineboy move the airplane. He put the tow bar through one of the aft holes in
the fork successfully shearing the valve stem as he moved the airplane. I don't
let anyone touch it anymore, even with the wheel pants on.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/Sec48GearLegAndWheelFairings?feat=directlink
There is a picture of mine and a little mod that was necessary for me to
do. While on the ground, I couldn't hold everything in alignment to fit
the bolt thru, otherwise.
Jae
40533
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
> =EF=BB Lol....triangle with a flat spot on the 90 degree
> side....its plenty strong to tow the plane....everyone knows the
> trapazoid is used in the big top to swing
> on!!!i0fr((nbxm
&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
msausen wrote:
> Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in the rear
bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
> Michael
> --
I have also wondered about just how in-coming air is exhausted. I can think of
many routes for the air to get out but now at least on my AC, I now know they
are not as effective as 2 of Steins big vents. And I guess I should note that
I didn't open up the 4 little ones in the overhead console. It was cold enough
just opening up the 2 big front ones for a couple minutes.
This brings up another point. For those who have alternate static ports inside
the cabin, have you tested them and under what conditions? Looks like you will
need to note the conditions and results with your tests.
Is all of this opening a can of worms or what [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284046#284046
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
thank you
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284047#284047
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
Yes, keep that line away from fuel lines. That SCAT
tube gets hot enough that the seat frame around it
gets hot enough to burn your skin if you touch it.
If you use rear seat heat, you will definitely have
hot metal in the area. I have insulated my SCAT
tubing further to prevent that heat from getting
out anywhere but the exit vent as much as possible.
There is a LOT of heat there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
rvdave wrote:
>
> I can fit the scat tubing under the valve and between the fuel lines, I've got
to believe others have done that with earlier kits, could or would there be
a condition for vapor lock, is that the issue?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284041#284041
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
BTW, would someone be able to run a CFD plot on a 3D model of the RV-10?
It would be very interesting to see why the right side door is getting sucked out
more than the pilot side, and also would give a more definite position of side
louvers on the cowling.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284053#284053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Spider foam, door flex issue. |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Does the right side indeed get sucked out more than the left? If so, it is
almost certainly due to the corkscrew nature of the slipstream off the
propeller.
Jack Phillips
# 40610
Wings (Fuel Tanks)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 11:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3d Model
BTW, would someone be able to run a CFD plot on a 3D model of the RV-10?
It would be very interesting to see why the right side door is getting
sucked out more than the pilot side, and also would give a more definite
position of side louvers on the cowling.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284053#284053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate static--was Door Flex |
I have a story (confession) about alternate static.
I have a "toggle valve" for the alternate static port that just opens the
static system to cabin pressure. I think that's pretty standard.
At some point after test flying, I had the panel apart and managed to put
the toggle in upside down, so "normal" was open to the cabin and "alternate"
was the regular static system.
The result was that everything worked as advertised--airspeed, altimeter,
encoder, all seemed normal enough that I didn't have any reason to suspect
an error. But, when we opened an air vent while using altitude hold, we got
about a 50' climb, then level off and everything normal again. Reverse when
closing the vent. The A/P was seeing higher pressure, equating it to lower
altitude, and correcting.
I was convinced that the vent was upsetting airflow over the elevator trim.
Sometimes I'm really surprised at the lengths my brain will go to in order
to make the pieces of a puzzle fit...
Anyway, the actual problem finally dawned on me, and I turned the toggle
180* to match the normal/alternate labels, and all was well. Duh.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Flex (incoming air exhaust) |
I had a thought some time ago about the hot tunnels folks were experiencing
and where I could exhaust some air to help. There's a small opening in the
front of the tunnel cover and I figured I would use that as an inlet and
then I drilled a couple holes in the bottom skin at the back of the tunnel
thinking cockpit air pressurized from the cooling vents would flow through
the tunnel and help a little. Long explanation to get to the point that I
didn't notice any difference. No clue what sort of outside pressure exists
at my exit holes and that could be part of the issue.
On a previous airplane (Q-2) the fuselage was pretty tight so there were a
lot of discussions about the need to create exit holes in the fuselage so
cooling air could actually flow. Seems like there is plenty of air coming
in my cooling vents so I don't think it's much of an issue in the RV-10 (or
perhaps I just built a really leaky airplane).
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 11:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
msausen wrote:
> Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in
the rear bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
> Michael
> --
I have also wondered about just how in-coming air is exhausted. I can think
of many routes for the air to get out but now at least on my AC, I now know
they are not as effective as 2 of Steins big vents. And I guess I should
note that I didn't open up the 4 little ones in the overhead console. It
was cold enough just opening up the 2 big front ones for a couple minutes.
This brings up another point. For those who have alternate static ports
inside the cabin, have you tested them and under what conditions? Looks
like you will need to note the conditions and results with your tests.
Is all of this opening a can of worms or what [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284046#284046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
To piggy back on Kelly's question...
I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
is fs20x7...
Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can you
trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's panel
an console; if that matters.
Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are 1/4"
female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I used about 3" of the extension. I have the newer valve location which is
lower than the original location. I ordered the FS20x7-T, which have male
AN-6 fittings. The new elbow fittings make installing the fuel valve much
easier. Also, don't cross the fuel lines per the plans. The andair valve
doesn't require that.
You can see some of my photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
gory=0&log-897&row=7 and
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
gory=0&log=89805&row=51 .
I'm using Geoff's center arm rest console, so there was some additional
creative engineering that had to be done. If you are installing this as
well, I just finished the install manual and posted them to Geoff's site.
It can be found here: http://aerosportproducts.com/doc.htm If you are just
using Geoff's instrument panel, that doesn't impact the fuel valve
installation.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
To piggy back on Kelly's question...
I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
is fs20x7...
Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can you
trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's panel
an console; if that matters.
Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are 1/4"
female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I purchased the 6" extension and used about 1/2 of it. It is an
extrusion and yes, you cut it to any length you need then install the
end fittings to mate to the valve and selector.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 30, 2010, at 4:49 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:
>
> I used about 3" of the extension. I have the newer valve location
> which is
> lower than the original location. I ordered the FS20x7-T, which
> have male
> AN-6 fittings. The new elbow fittings make installing the fuel
> valve much
> easier. Also, don't cross the fuel lines per the plans. The andair
> valve
> doesn't require that.
>
> You can see some of my photos here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
> gory=0&log-897&row=7 and
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
> gory=0&log=89805&row=51 .
>
> I'm using Geoff's center arm rest console, so there was some
> additional
> creative engineering that had to be done. If you are installing
> this as
> well, I just finished the install manual and posted them to Geoff's
> site.
> It can be found here: http://aerosportproducts.com/doc.htm If you
> are just
> using Geoff's instrument panel, that doesn't impact the fuel valve
> installation.
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
>
>
> To piggy back on Kelly's question...
>
> I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
> is fs20x7...
>
> Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can
> you
> trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's
> panel
> an console; if that matters.
>
>
> Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are
> 1/4"
> female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
>
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
Been out of email touch thanks for the replies on this. I pretty much
have
the scheme down it was the movement of the motor from full flaps to
reflex
which I didn=92t know since the wings are not on. Jim says 5 inches so
I=92ll
play with that.
Thanks
Chris
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)cox.net
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flap motor rod travel
The sensor IIRC only gets about an inch and a quarter or so of travel
from
stop to stop. By using a horn about 1.5 inches in height you can dial
down
the throw to what you need. The hose clamp makes adjusting the up or
down
full range easy...just need to get the height of the pushrod attachment
to
the horn set to provide the needed travel required of the sensor
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 11:22:34 -0500
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flap motor rod travel
FYI, The flap motor travels 5 inches for the complete flap
deployment.- <
br>
Jim Combs (N312F)
On Thu, Jan 28, = 2010 at 10:15 AM, Lew Gallagher
wrote:
--> RV10-List = message posted by: "Lew Gallagher"
Hey Chris,
I don't know if this is what you are trying to address, but I've be=
en
meaning to post these pictures in case they help.
The Show Planes positioner places the flaps at preset 3 degrees up,
even, h
alf down and all the way down. -The owner/pilot I'm helping wanted
to= be
able to "see" the position of the flaps on his AFS monitor at= night,
so he
got the slide resistor sensor that feeds into that (I'll = get that
info for
you if you want it, don't have it with me, I think it= is also by Show
Planes).
The trick is to mount it in such a position that it gets full range of
the
flap without exceeding the limits of the sensor -- about 1.25 inches.
-I
kept fiddling with it until I got it close, then made the little
"arm&
quot; you see attached almost to the bottom of the horn. -This way,
the a
rm pivots on the screw so that it increases/decreases the radius of arch
--
hence increases/decreases the fine adjustment of the throw on the
sensor.
-I made the connecting rod out of hobby shop servo connecting rod.
-Dou
ble sided tape is a good idea for getting the sensor at the right height
an
d angle -- I just fiddled with ours.
It was very difficult to drill that hole on the horn while it is
installed
because of the position and it is hardened -- broke more than one bit.
-I
f that is what you are dealing with before you install it, I think that
is
a smart thing to do! - That pivot hole is as low as I could go and
still
get a nut on the backside where the flange comes into the hub.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D283763#283763<= /a>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor1_medium_68= 0.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor2_medium_19= 6.jpg
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
=3D"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=B7~=89=B2,
_____
g'=D3=D3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Thanks Tim, what did you do with your scat tube and fuel valve since you had an
earlier kit?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284101#284101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
I used a lowered and extended Andair....the most common fix.
Tim
On Jan 30, 2010, at 6:32 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim, what did you do with your scat tube and fuel valve since
> you had an earlier kit?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284101#284101
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> I have a toggle too. It's interesting to have the AP engaged and
> flip the toggle open-closed-open-closed, and watch the plane
> and altimeter/airspeed/vsi.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
I am curious, what happens when you open/close the vents. From my experiences,
it does look like we are getting a fair amount of cabin pressurization when opening
our vents.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284105#284105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Are builders painting their baffles. Is so=2C is a special primer/ paint ne
eded to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50 primer wo
rk? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these pieces
on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
Thanks
JOhn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle paint? |
Urethane with a properly prepped aluminum should work just fine.
Linn
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Are builders painting their baffles. Is so, is a special primer/ paint
> needed to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50
> primer work? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
>
> Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these
> pieces on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex |
I'll let you know this summer when I open my vents. ;). Got up to 14F
today.
Tim
On Jan 30, 2010, at 7:29 PM, "orchidman" wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I have a toggle too. It's interesting to have the AP engaged and
>> flip the toggle open-closed-open-closed, and watch the plane
>> and altimeter/airspeed/vsi.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>
> I am curious, what happens when you open/close the vents. From my
> experiences, it does look like we are getting a fair amount of cabin
> pressurization when opening our vents.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284105#284105
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Little slower, looks very cool and as smooth as Deem's
bottom!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 19:54:36
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if
so what is the opinion of this set up versus the H
artzell which is about 50%more expensive?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
I used PPG DP-40LF and a single stage top coat on my 8A. The baffles look
just like the day I painted them 8 years ago. I'll do the same on the 10.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 9:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baffle paint?
Are builders painting their baffles. Is so, is a special primer/ paint
needed to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50 primer
work? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these pieces
on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
Thanks
JOhn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower cowl
off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is faster and
makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd have purchased
it....
That is just my opinion.....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the
> opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
> expensive?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
Now I'm concerned.... wondering how Rick knows about Deem's bottom.... then
why Deem's would get involved in any thing like that....=C2- Oh crap, I'
m flying down to Vegas in Feb and am staying in Ricks hangar while we atten
d the NASCAR race "together", and then we're flying down to visit Deems....
. this simply does not sound good!!!!!!!!!!!!
=C2-
On a serious note.... I love my MT... very smooth, and certainly fast.=C2
- Climbout the other day=C2-with 2 big boys on board was over 2,140 fpm
, and most of the time we cruise between 170 and 184 knots, at between 9.5
and 10.2 gph.=C2- Ran with a Cirrus the other day; we were both=C2-at 4
500' at 25sq, 200mph.
=C2-
But what the hell do I know.
=C2-
Don McDonald=C2-
--- On Sat, 1/30/10, ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
From: ricksked(at)cox.net <ricksked(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Date: Saturday, January 30, 2010, 7:22 PM
Little slower, looks very cool and as smooth as Deem's bottom!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 19:54:36 -0700
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
= n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
= =
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=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p
=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C7 =C3=83p=C3=9C?=C3=9B=C3=BD=C3=BA'=C2
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
I have been flying with the 3 blade MT for 14 months and over 180
hours with absolutely no problems. Very smooth prop. The common
wisdoms seems to say that the 3 blade props are a few knots slower
than 2 blade. The MT is 17 lbs lighter than the 2 blade Hartzell
IIRC. I don't know what the weight of the 3 blade Hartzell is. You
will get a bit of paint erosion from flying in rain with the MT. The
MT maintenance manual gives good instructions for easy repair of this
erosion.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the
opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
expensive?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to be as
fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them painted for
a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
I don't think there have ever been any numbers from non-souped engines
to show the aerocomposite being faster on a same cowl/engine combo.
Not saying it isn't true, but to date I think the only KNOWN data
point is the MT is just the slightest bit slower...not much. The
aerocomposite might be faster or equal, but no real solid side by side
flight has been done like with the MT. It is a beautiful prop,
regardless.
Tim
On Jan 31, 2010, at 10:36 AM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote:
> General consensus is that with the MT you get:
>
>
> - a couple not decrease in top end
>
> - a much smoother prop
>
> - increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
>
> - much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
>
> - lighter nose weight
>
> - Sex appeal :)
>
>
> The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to
> be as fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have
> them painted for a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
>
>
> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the
> opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
> expensive?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
MT has some limited color choices as well. Mine is black with yellow
tips. I forgot to mention the lower cowl issue that many have noted.
You will have to modify your lower cowl to get it on and off. If you
live reasonably close to a major airport (with customs), you can
arrange to have the prop shipped directly from the factory assembled.
This will save you from having it shipped in pieces to a US MT
service center and paying to have it assembled there. Then you will
have to pick it up or arrange for shipping from the service center.
Jim Ayres at LessDragProducts did a good job for me and saved me a
few bucks by suggesting I have it shipped from the factory assembled.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 31, 2010, at 11:36 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to
be as fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them
painted for a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the
opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
expensive?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
Greg Nelson, out of Lincoln, Ca... former U-2 pilot, owns a rocket.- Orig
inally he had a 2 bade Hartzell, and then switched to a 3 blade MT.- He s
aid that the top end loss was only a few knots, and that climbout-was ver
y close to identical.... this is the info I used to finally make a decision
on which way to go.- Another positive aspect that noone has mentioned is
that when you pull the mixture for shut down, IT STOPS, RIGHT NOW!- I've
watched lots of planes shut down, and that added weight of the 2 blade har
tzell-is just a really big heavy flywheel, so it turns several more revol
utions, and the engine and aircraft rock around quite a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 9:05 AM
I don't think there have ever been any numbers from non-souped engines to s
how the aerocomposite being faster on a same cowl/engine combo. -Not sayi
ng it isn't true, but to date I think the only KNOWN data point is the MT i
s just the slightest bit slower...not much. -The aerocomposite might be f
aster or equal, but no real solid side by side flight has been done like wi
th the MT. -It is a beautiful prop, regardless.
Tim
On Jan 31, 2010, at 10:36 AM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
-
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
-
- The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to be a
s fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them painted f
or a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
-
Michael
-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
-
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive? -
-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution -
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | User Flight Manual |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
Does anyone have a flight manual they wrote for the RV10 they would be willing
to share as a guide. I am getting close to first flight and want to get started
on the flight manual and check list.
Thanks...Greg
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284194#284194
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle paint? |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I painted my Pitts baffles with white Imron and after 25 years there is just slight
discoloration right next to the cylinders; none elsewhere.
I had my -10 baffles anodized($50 for everything) and have been able to take some
of them off a couple of times without scratching them.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284202#284202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | User Flight Manual |
That would be a REALLY big help for some of us!! Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: User Flight Manual
> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com
> Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 10:04:02 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Does anyone have a flight manual they wrote for the RV10 they would be wi
lling to share as a guide. I am getting close to first flight and want to
get started on the flight manual and check list.
>
> Thanks...Greg
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284194#284194
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder trailing edge |
Hi Guys
I just completed the trailing edge riveting of my
rudder. While I was able to get all the rivets
to set very nicely on both sides, I did leave
several marks from probably using too big a flush
set and maybe too much pounding. I want to fill
these and then sand them smooth prior to
painting. I've perused ACS which just confused
me. What have you all used to fill something
like this?
Rick
(On a 2 week building hiatus, remotely from the
island of Grand Turk)
#40956
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder trailing edge |
PolyFiber SuperFil
It is an epoxy filler that won't shrink like Bondo does. And it's very
light.
Jack Phillips
# 40610, Wings (Fuel tanks)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jrlark(at)bmts.com
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trailing edge
Hi Guys
I just completed the trailing edge riveting of my
rudder. While I was able to get all the rivets
to set very nicely on both sides, I did leave
several marks from probably using too big a flush
set and maybe too much pounding. I want to fill
these and then sand them smooth prior to
painting. I've perused ACS which just confused
me. What have you all used to fill something
like this?
Rick
(On a 2 week building hiatus, remotely from the
island of Grand Turk)
#40956
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Operating Handbook/checklist |
My sample from others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: User Flight Manual |
when in doubt check Tim Olsons page.. He has everything.. Also look in
the archives as I recall this was posted a while back..
From: Danny Riggs
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: User Flight Manual
That would be a REALLY big help for some of us!! Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: User Flight Manual
> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com
> Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 10:04:02 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Does anyone have a flight manual they wrote for the RV10 they would be
willing to share as a guide. I am getting close to first flight and want
to get started on the flight manual and check list.
>
> Thanks...Greg
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284194#284194
>
>
>
>
>
====================
> _============
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protecti_new'>Sign up now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trailing edge |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Don't worry about it now, when you get ready for paint several options superfill,
evercoat metal glaze....way too early to worry now
------Original Message------
From: jrlark(at)bmts.com
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Jan 31, 2010 11:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trailing edge
Hi Guys
I just completed the trailing edge riveting of my
rudder. While I was able to get all the rivets
to set very nicely on both sides, I did leave
several marks from probably using too big a flush
set and maybe too much pounding. I want to fill
these and then sand them smooth prior to
painting. I've perused ACS which just confused
me. What have you all used to fill something
like this?
Rick
(On a 2 week building hiatus, remotely from the
island of Grand Turk)
#40956
-
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trailing edge |
Superfill
On Jan 31, 2010, at 11:17 AM, jrlark(at)bmts.com wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> I just completed the trailing edge riveting of my
> rudder. While I was able to get all the rivets
> to set very nicely on both sides, I did leave
> several marks from probably using too big a flush
> set and maybe too much pounding. I want to fill
> these and then sand them smooth prior to
> painting. I've perused ACS which just confused
> me. What have you all used to fill something
> like this?
>
> Rick
> (On a 2 week building hiatus, remotely from the
> island of Grand Turk)
> #40956
>
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | User Flight Manual |
Greg=2C
I found this one also: http://vansairforce.net/poh.htm for the POH. Thank
s for asking as I needed it also! Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: User Flight Manual
> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com
> Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 10:04:02 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Does anyone have a flight manual they wrote for the RV10 they would be wi
lling to share as a guide. I am getting close to first flight and want to
get started on the flight manual and check list.
>
> Thanks...Greg
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284194#284194
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
Bill:
Sorry=2C I kind of forgot to move it on...............I will get it off to
you within a day or two (at worst)............!!
Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 12:38:10 -0500
From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: [Fwd: Re: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation?]
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 06:51:59 -0500
From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
No I didn't and I'm ready. Mike or Lew=2C any word?
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Hey=2C Bill... did you get the countersink from Mike yet? Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> On Sat=2C Dec 12=2C 2009 at 6:31 PM=2C Bill Mauledriver Watson
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Alright=2C you'll be next.
>
> Bill
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> Bill=2C I could use it when you're done.
> -Rob
>
> On Sat=2C Dec 12=2C 2009 at 10:50 AM=2C Lew Gallagher
>
> >> wrote:
>
>
> >>
>
>
> Hey Bill "looking for a hole sinker not like Tiger" Watson=2C
>
> Mike Lefever presently has the countersink and just emailed
> me to
> see if it was alright to keep it until after the holidays. It
> would be best if he sent it directly to you when he's finished
> instead of detouring through me. PM me and I'll get you his
> info
> in case he doesn't see this.
>
> Later=2C - Lew "still pushing for an AP" Gallagher
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson"
>
> >>
>
> To:
> >>
>
> Sent: Saturday=2C December 12=2C 2009 1:25 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in
> circulation?
>
>
>
> >>
>
>
> I'd like to use it if available.
> Alternatively=2C where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100de
g
> countersink?
> BTW=2C I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by
> adding
> 2 additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes
.
>
> Thanks!
> Bill Watson
> Durham NC
>
>
> -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
> 9=3Bs Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
>
> he Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
> <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> s.com/contribution <http://s.com/contribution>"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle=2C Li - The
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> :
> 0-List"
>
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> = --> h
>
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
> <http://forums.matronics.com/>http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
> <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
.com
tronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
I guess the only thing that concerns me that I don't think there is an easy
answer to is...........I travel to Mexico and land on unimproved "airports
" 5 or 10 times a year............and have some concern the sand will eat u
p the MT. Any thoughts?
Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 09:42:30 -0800
From: building_partner(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Greg Nelson=2C out of Lincoln=2C Ca... former U-2 pilot=2C owns a rocket.
Originally he had a 2 bade Hartzell=2C and then switched to a 3 blade MT.
He said that the top end loss was only a few knots=2C and that climbout was
very close to identical.... this is the info I used to finally make a deci
sion on which way to go. Another positive aspect that noone has mentioned
is that when you pull the mixture for shut down=2C IT STOPS=2C RIGHT NOW!
I've watched lots of planes shut down=2C and that added weight of the 2 bla
de hartzell is just a really big heavy flywheel=2C so it turns several more
revolutions=2C and the engine and aircraft rock around quite a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun=2C 1/31/10=2C Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Date: Sunday=2C January 31=2C 2010=2C 9:05 AM
I don't think there have ever been any numbers from non-souped engines to s
how the aerocomposite being faster on a same cowl/engine combo. Not saying
it isn't true=2C but to date I think the only KNOWN data point is the MT i
s just the slightest bit slower...not much. The aerocomposite might be fas
ter or equal=2C but no real solid side by side flight has been done like wi
th the MT. It is a beautiful prop=2C regardless.
Tim
On Jan 31=2C 2010=2C at 10:36 AM=2C "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to be as
fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them painted for
a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday=2C January 30=2C 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
Thats a great idea thanks........being in Arizona with all of the customs c
enters I may be able to figure that out.
From: dmaib(at)mac.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 12:15:46 -0500
MT has some limited color choices as well. Mine is black with yellow tips.
I forgot to mention the lower cowl issue that many have noted. You will hav
e to modify your lower cowl to get it on and off. If you live reasonably cl
ose to a major airport (with customs)=2C you can arrange to have the prop s
hipped directly from the factory assembled. This will save you from having
it shipped in pieces to a US MT service center and paying to have it assemb
led there. Then you will have to pick it up or arrange for shipping from th
e service center. Jim Ayres at LessDragProducts did a good job for me and s
aved me a few bucks by suggesting I have it shipped from the factory assemb
led.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jan 31=2C 2010=2C at 11:36 AM=2C RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to be as
fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them painted for
a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday=2C January 30=2C 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive? htt
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://
www.matronics.com/contribution
style="color: blue=3B text-decoration: underline=3B ">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue=3B text-decoration: underline=3B ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue=3B text-decoration: underline=3B ">http://www.matronic
s.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Beautiful job Geoff! Thanks for the inspiration.
(Back to the fiberglass ........)
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284286#284286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
You really don't want to put a vent opening in the rear bulkhead. The pressure
in the tailcone is higher than that in the cabin and you will get a huge cold
draft coming forward. In flight you can feel the air coming forward thru the
corrugations in the baggage compartment bulkhead.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284291#284291
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
I was on the fence between an MT prop and 2 blade Hartzell. Other than
cost and performance, a big consideration I remember hearing from Van's
was that if an MT blade gets chipped, the prop should not be flown but
sent off for inspection and repair before further flight. The aluminum
Hartzell could be field dressed depending on the damage and flown again
quickly. This one advantage along with reports two blade props have the
best top end finalized my decision. Reports also say having the two
blade Hartzell balanced along with the inherent smoothness of the 540's
we all run make them very smooth. The only advantages I remember from
my research were, better ground clearance and less noise from shorter
blades, lighter and better looking.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 7:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
I guess the only thing that concerns me that I don't think there is an
easy answer to is...........I travel to Mexico and land on unimproved
"airports" 5 or 10 times a year............and have some concern the
sand will eat up the MT. Any thoughts?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 09:42:30 -0800
From: building_partner(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Greg Nelson, out of Lincoln, Ca... former U-2 pilot, owns a
rocket. Originally he had a 2 bade Hartzell, and then switched to a 3
blade MT. He said that the top end loss was only a few knots, and that
climbout was very close to identical.... this is the info I used to
finally make a decision on which way to go. Another positive aspect
that noone has mentioned is that when you pull the mixture for shut
down, IT STOPS, RIGHT NOW! I've watched lots of planes shut down, and
that added weight of the 2 blade hartzell is just a really big heavy
flywheel, so it turns several more revolutions, and the engine and
aircraft rock around quite a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
To: "rv10-list(at)matronics.com"
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 9:05 AM
I don't think there have ever been any numbers from non-souped
engines to show the aerocomposite being faster on a same cowl/engine
combo. Not saying it isn't true, but to date I think the only KNOWN
data point is the MT is just the slightest bit slower...not much. The
aerocomposite might be faster or equal, but no real solid side by side
flight has been done like with the MT. It is a beautiful prop,
regardless.
Tim
On Jan 31, 2010, at 10:36 AM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are
supposed to be as fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can
have them painted for a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex
appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and
Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what
is the opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
expensive?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Roger Christopher Hopkinson |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Anyone on the list know Roger Christopher Hopkinson in the UK? He's
listed as the registered owner of a flying RV-10 in Reading. I'll be in
the UK in April and it might be fun to stop by . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Roger Christopher Hopkinson |
PM to you on the way
On 01.02.2010 06:53, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> Anyone on the list know Roger Christopher Hopkinson in the UK? Hes
> listed as the registered owner of a flying RV-10 in Reading. Ill be in
> the UK in April and it might be fun to stop by . . .
>
> TDT
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is a large countersink still in circulation?] |
No problem, more than enough tools to abuse FG with around here right now.
Let me know if you need me to resend address stuff.
Bill
Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
> Bill:
>
> Sorry, I kind of forgot to move it on...............I will get it off
> to you within a day or two (at worst)............!!
>
> Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 12:38:10 -0500
> From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: [Fwd: Re: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in
> circulation?]
>
>
>
>
>
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--
> Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 06:51:59 -0500
> From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
> To: rv10rob(at)gmail.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in circulation?
>
>
> No I didn't and I'm ready. Mike or Lew, any word?
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
> > Hey, Bill... did you get the countersink from Mike yet? Thanks...
> >
> > -Rob
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 6:31 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> > > wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > Alright, you'll be next.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Rob Kochman wrote:
> >
> > Bill, I could use it when you're done.
> > -Rob
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Lew Gallagher
> >
> > >> wrote:
> >
> >
> > >>
> >
> >
> > Hey Bill "looking for a hole sinker not like Tiger" Watson,
> >
> > Mike Lefever presently has the countersink and just emailed
> > me to
> > see if it was alright to keep it until after the holidays. It
> > would be best if he sent it directly to you when he's finished
> > instead of detouring through me. PM me and I'll get you his
> > info
> > in case he doesn't see this.
> >
> > Later, - Lew "still pushing for an AP" Gallagher
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson"
> >
> > >>
> >
> > To: >
> > > >>
> >
> > Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 1:25 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Is a large countersink still in
> > circulation?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >>
> >
> >
> > I'd like to use it if available.
> > Alternatively, where's a good place to buy a 5/16" 100deg
> > countersink?
> > BTW, I replaced the stock rear seat belt arrangement by
> > adding
> > 2 additional hardpoints - so I have to countersink 4 holes.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Bill Watson
> > Durham NC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
> > 9;s Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
> >
> > he Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
> > <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> > <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> > s.com/contribution <http://s.com/contribution>"
> > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > -Matt Dralle, Li - The
> > RV10-List Email Forum -
> > :
> > 0-List"
> >
> > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<
> > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> > = --> h
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > <http://forums.matronics.com/>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Rob Kochman
> > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> > <http://forums.matronics.com/>http://kochman.net/N819K
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
> > <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
> > <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Rob Kochman
> > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> > http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution===========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
All 3 brands of the composite 3 bladed props are less likely to get
nicks or chips in the leading edge than an aluminum prop, because they
have metal leading edges made of metals more resistant to such wear
and tear than aluminum is. I think any builder understands how easily
aluminum is damaged. 3 blades give better acceleration and climb, but
the RV-10 has such good acceleration and climb already that you are
less likely to notice those benefits.
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 10:41 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> I was on the fence between an MT prop and 2 blade Hartzell. Other than cost and
performance, a big consideration I remember hearing from Van's was that if
an MT blade gets chipped, the prop should not be flown but sent off for inspection
and repair before further flight. The aluminum Hartzell could be field dressed
depending on the damage and flown again quickly. This one advantage along
with reports two blade props have the best top end finalizedmy decision. Reports
also say having the two blade Hartzell balanced along with the inherent smoothness
of the 540's we all run makethemvery smooth. The only advantages I remember
from my research were, better ground clearance and less noise from shorter
blades, lighter and better looking.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel
cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove
the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still
building this should be considered. Others have installed an access panel
in the side of the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier access to
the fuel filter and fuel pump. One of the things I really dislike about
servicing the fuel filter is that you have to break the fuel lines, and
this causes some fuel to spill. Add insulation to soak up the fuel and
you have a recipe for disaster, so you need to use a box of rags to keep
the fuel from getting all over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the airplane
we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the airplane that
we could have reached up through to get at the fuel filter. This would
have been much easier during construction.... An alternative would be to
install a second fuel filter, and place both filters at the tank exits
under the wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about how
they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our
airplane to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
It's not that big of a deal to take it out, and you need to inspect
inside the tunnel anyway at each annual.
Run the engine dry to check that the shut-off valve works, then a
couple of paper towels soak up any residual (I put no insulation in my
tunnel for just that reason.....did not want anything to soak up fuel
should there be a leak or spill in there......
I wouldn't mess with cutting access panels in the floor......at least
not before checking with Van's on what it might do to structural
strength.....
grumpy
N184JM flying, about to start #3 annual
On Feb 1, 2010, at 7:48 AM, jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote:
> I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel
> filter. First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in
> removing the tunnel cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it
> isn't necessary to remove the entire cover to inspect the tunnel,
> great idea, for those still building this should be considered.
> Others have installed an access panel in the side of the tunnel in
> the foot well. This allows easier access to the fuel filter and
> fuel pump. One of the things I really dislike about servicing the
> fuel filter is that you have to break the fuel lines, and this
> causes some fuel to spill. Add insulation to soak up the fuel and
> you have a recipe for disaster, so you need to use a box of rags to
> keep the fuel from getting all over the place.
>
> So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the
> airplane we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of
> the airplane that we could have reached up through to get at the
> fuel filter. This would have been much easier during
> construction.... An alternative would be to install a second fuel
> filter, and place both filters at the tank exits under the wing walk
> access panel.
>
> I post this simply to get those who are still building to think
> about how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will
> modify our airplane to simplify the task.
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
>
> N44YH - Flying
> 4 Partner Build #40617
> Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
I just did this yesterday...removed the tunnel cover and
disassembled the fuel filter. I was contemplating doing
a side access door like Scott to get to the filter. I think
that access door could be really handy in accessing the filter
to get tools in there. But, at the same time, even if you
have the door I don't think that makes it a great idea to
do any filter removal without the tunnel cover off.
I spilled plenty of fuel in that tunnel area and had to
wipe it up as you noted. I wouldn't want to completely do the
job through a side panel unless I knew I could get it
all 100% cleaned. So I think that unless there were a
bottom access panel as you noted, there isn't really
a good way to service the filter without removing
the tunnel cover completely, and also removing that SCAT
tube for better access. A side panel removal would
add to easier access.
But, when all is said and done, I think removal of the
entire tunnel cover is probably something you should all
be doing once a year anyway. And I mean the entire tunnel
cover back through the rear seats. It's the only way
you'll be able to inspect and lubricate the control rod
ends. It will still be a pain in the butt, but if it only
comes once a year during annual time then it's not much
worth complaining about....it's easier to annual an RV-10
than it is some of those other certified planes.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote:
> I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
> First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel
> cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove
> the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still
> building this should be considered. Others have installed an access
> panel in the side of the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier
> access to the fuel filter and fuel pump. One of the things I really
> dislike about servicing the fuel filter is that you have to break the
> fuel lines, and this causes some fuel to spill. Add insulation to soak
> up the fuel and you have a recipe for disaster, so you need to use a box
> of rags to keep the fuel from getting all over the place.
>
> So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the airplane
> we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the airplane
> that we could have reached up through to get at the fuel filter. This
> would have been much easier during construction.... An alternative
> would be to install a second fuel filter, and place both filters at the
> tank exits under the wing walk access panel.
>
> I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about
> how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our
> airplane to simplify the task.
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
>
> N44YH - Flying
> 4 Partner Build #40617
> Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
| From: | lessdragprod(at)aol.com |
Actually, it is an easy answer. The stainless steel leading edge on MT pr
opellers is three times more resistant to sand erosion than aluminum.
When I was going through the certification class at MT Propeller in German
y, I disassembled a propeller in for overhaul from Iceland. The leading
edges were dented from the rocks that they picked up while doing their en
gine run up (rock runway). Since there were no cracks in the dents, the
propeller blades were airworthy as is. They just looked pretty bad. Dur
ing overhaul, the stainless steel leading edge were replaced. The overhau
led propeller looked like a new propeller.
There is damage and repair criteria in the installation and operation manu
al. Basically, if the fiberglass shell is damaged, it is patched with 5
minite epoxy.
At Sun-N-Fun one year, a Velocity had to do a go around, and the MT propel
ler tips hit the runway. It took about an inch off each blade tip. The
blades were all trimmed to the same length and the exposed wood on the ti
ps were sealed with 5 minute Epoxy.
One of my F-1 customers removed 3 inches from the tip of each blade on his
3 blade MT Propeller on take off (fighting a cross wind). He noticed thi
s when he landed. (The concrete had done an excellent job of evenly "sand
ing" each blade tip.) We did an early overhaul. The blades wee sent to
Germany for repair back to their original length. The customers engine
was removed for a propeller strike inspection. The overhauled propeller
with the original length blades was available to be installed when the en
gine was back on the F-1.
Jim Ayers
N130LD Less Drag Special (modified HR2) IO-540 exp with counterweighted 4
blade MT Propeller
(November BOLD)
-----Original Message-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2010 5:24 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
I guess the only thing that concerns me that I don't think there is an eas
y answer to is...........I travel to Mexico and land on unimproved "airpor
ts" 5 or 10 times a year............and have some concern the sand will ea
t up the MT. Any thoughts?
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 09:42:30 -0800
From: building_partner(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Greg Nelson, out of Lincoln, Ca... former U-2 pilot, owns a rocket. Origi
nally he had a 2 bade Hartzell, and then switched to a 3 blade MT. He sai
d that the top end loss was only a few knots, and that climbout was very
close to identical.... this is the info I used to finally make a decision
on which way to go. Another positive aspect that noone has mentioned is
that when you pull the mixture for shut down, IT STOPS, RIGHT NOW! I've
watched lots of planes shut down, and that added weight of the 2 blade ha
rtzell is just a really big heavy flywheel, so it turns several more revol
utions, and the engine and aircraft rock around quite a bit.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Tim Olson wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 9:05 AM
I don't think there have ever been any numbers from non-souped engines to
show the aerocomposite being faster on a same cowl/engine combo. Not say
ing it isn't true, but to date I think the only KNOWN data point is the MT
is just the slightest bit slower...not much. The aerocomposite might be
faster or equal, but no real solid side by side flight has been done like
with the MT. It is a beautiful prop, regardless.
Tim
On Jan 31, 2010, at 10:36 AM, "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote:
General consensus is that with the MT you get:
- a couple not decrease in top end
- a much smoother prop
- increase in climb performance and quicker off the blocks
- much bigger PITA when taking off the lower cowl
- lighter nose weight
- Sex appeal :)
The Aerocomposite that Deems and a few others have are supposed to be as
fast or slightly faster than the Hartzell and you can have them painted
for a couple point bump in the aforementioned sex appeal.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opini
on of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm not sure if it's possible, but I've been thinking of adding one
filter at each wing root.
I like the simplified access to the filter, but I also like the idea of
having one fuel filter dedicated to each tank. This way if a filter
should get blocked, I can flip to the other tank and access some fuel
there.
Phil
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
[mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel
cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove
the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still
building this should be considered. Others have installed an access
panel in the side of the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier
access to the fuel filter and fuel pump. One of the things I really
dislike about servicing the fuel filter is that you have to break the
fuel lines, and this causes some fuel to spill. Add insulation to soak
up the fuel and you have a recipe for disaster, so you need to use a box
of rags to keep the fuel from getting all over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the airplane
we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the airplane
that we could have reached up through to get at the fuel filter. This
would have been much easier during construction.... An alternative
would be to install a second fuel filter, and place both filters at the
tank exits under the wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about
how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our
airplane to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
If a builder decides to start cutting extra holes in the skin, I would
advise getting a structural engineer's analysis of the proposal.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 6:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter. First,
just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel cover.
Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove the entire
cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still building this
should be considered. Others have installed an access panel in the side of
the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier access to the fuel filter
and fuel pump. One of the things I really dislike about servicing the fuel
filter is that you have to break the fuel lines, and this causes some fuel
to spill. Add insulation to soak up the fuel and you have a recipe for
disaster, so you need to use a box of rags to keep the fuel from getting all
over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the airplane we
would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the airplane that we
could have reached up through to get at the fuel filter. This would have
been much easier during construction.... An alternative would be to install
a second fuel filter, and place both filters at the tank exits under the
wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about how
they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our airplane
to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
Is there any particular reason the filter needs to be in the tunnel?
Anyone considered relocating to front side of firewall?
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I just did this yesterday...removed the tunnel cover and
> disassembled the fuel filter. I was contemplating doing
> a side access door like Scott to get to the filter. I think
> that access door could be really handy in accessing the filter
> to get tools in there. But, at the same time, even if you
> have the door I don't think that makes it a great idea to
> do any filter removal without the tunnel cover off.
> I spilled plenty of fuel in that tunnel area and had to
> wipe it up as you noted. I wouldn't want to completely do the
> job through a side panel unless I knew I could get it
> all 100% cleaned. So I think that unless there were a
> bottom access panel as you noted, there isn't really
> a good way to service the filter without removing
> the tunnel cover completely, and also removing that SCAT
> tube for better access. A side panel removal would
> add to easier access.
>
> But, when all is said and done, I think removal of the
> entire tunnel cover is probably something you should all
> be doing once a year anyway. And I mean the entire tunnel
> cover back through the rear seats. It's the only way
> you'll be able to inspect and lubricate the control rod
> ends. It will still be a pain in the butt, but if it only
> comes once a year during annual time then it's not much
> worth complaining about....it's easier to annual an RV-10
> than it is some of those other certified planes.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
>
> jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com wrote:
>> I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
>> First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the
>> tunnel cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary
>> to remove the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for
>> those still building this should be considered. Others have installed
>> an access panel in the side of the tunnel in the foot well. This
>> allows easier access to the fuel filter and fuel pump. One of the
>> things I really dislike about servicing the fuel filter is that you
>> have to break the fuel lines, and this causes some fuel to spill. Add
>> insulation to soak up the fuel and you have a recipe for disaster, so
>> you need to use a box of rags to keep the fuel from getting all over
>> the place.
>>
>> So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the
>> airplane we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the
>> airplane that we could have reached up through to get at the fuel
>> filter. This would have been much easier during construction.... An
>> alternative would be to install a second fuel filter, and place both
>> filters at the tank exits under the wing walk access panel.
>>
>> I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about
>> how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify
>> our airplane to simplify the task.
>>
>> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
>>
>> N44YH - Flying
>> 4 Partner Build #40617
>> Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
I think there are times, especially when the airplane is new that you need to get
into that area besides annual. During annual EVERY panel needs to come off,
I don't think there are many or any exceptions this would not change that.
I agree a person would need to think about the structure when cutting in access
panels, but be aware cutting an access panel in the side of the tunnel requires
the same thought.
Like I said, I am not sure how we will handle this, or if we will even make a mod.
I just wanted to give those still building a chance to think about a possible
mod while it was still fairly simple to implement. Knowing what I know now,
I can promise that if we had known about this we would have done something
(again not sure what) during construction.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284343#284343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
Each tank , IIRC, already has a filter screen. Additionally one can see the
fuel flows for various power settings on the EFIS, so some indication of a
future problem may be evident. Lastly drain/flush the main tanks
after the build process. Mine were QB tanks but still had residual pieces of
proseal which I flushed before sending any fuel to the filter.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I'm not sure if it's possible, but I've been thinking of adding one filter
at each wing root.
I like the simplified access to the filter, but I also like the idea of
having one fuel filter dedicated to each tank. This way if a filter should
get blocked, I can flip to the other tank and access some fuel there.
Phil
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com [mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter. First,
just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel cover.
Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove the entire
cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still building this
should be considered. Others have installed an access panel in the side of
the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier access to the fuel filter
and fuel pump. One of the things I really dislike about servicing the fuel
filter is that you have to break the fuel lines, and this causes some fuel
to spill. Add insulation to soak up the fuel and you have a recipe for
disaster, so you need to use a box of rags to keep the fuel from getting all
over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the airplane we
would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the airplane that we
could have reached up through to get at the fuel filter. This would have
been much easier during construction.... An alternative would be to install
a second fuel filter, and place both filters at the tank exits under the
wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about how
they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our airplane
to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
I was dreading taking the fuel filter out during the first condition
inspection back in November. It was a PITA, but not as bad as I had
feared. Some certified airplanes have an access panel on the belly
just for this reason. I think this would be the best solution, but as
others have noted, some structural engineering support would be
required. I am not convinced that an access panel in the side of the
tunnel would make the task that much easier, and as Jason notes,
still has structural considerations. If I was doing it over again, I
would consider the belly access panel.
$.02 worth
David Maib
40559
flying
On Feb 1, 2010, at 9:43 AM, jkreidler wrote:
I think there are times, especially when the airplane is new that you
need to get into that area besides annual. During annual EVERY panel
needs to come off, I don't think there are many or any exceptions
this would not change that. I agree a person would need to think
about the structure when cutting in access panels, but be aware
cutting an access panel in the side of the tunnel requires the same
thought.
Like I said, I am not sure how we will handle this, or if we will
even make a mod. I just wanted to give those still building a chance
to think about a possible mod while it was still fairly simple to
implement. Knowing what I know now, I can promise that if we had
known about this we would have done something (again not sure what)
during construction.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284343#284343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
Drained and flushed my QB tanks during the build and did not have any
appreciable debris. That was even after having to replace an end rib
in one of the tanks due to a builder stupidity induced problem. I
noted during the first condition inspection that my fuel filter was
perfectly clean.
David Maib
4059
flying
On Feb 1, 2010, at 10:03 AM, DLM wrote:
Each tank , IIRC, already has a filter screen. Additionally one can
see the fuel flows for various power settings on the EFIS, so some
indication of a future problem may be evident. Lastly drain/flush
the main tanks
after the build process. Mine were QB tanks but still had residual
pieces of proseal which I flushed before sending any fuel to the filter.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I=92m not sure if it=92s possible, but I=92ve been thinking of adding
one
filter at each wing root.
I like the simplified access to the filter, but I also like the idea
of having one fuel filter dedicated to each tank. This way if a
filter should get blocked, I can flip to the other tank and access
some fuel there.
Phil
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
[mailto:jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com]
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the
tunnel cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary
to remove the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for
those still building this should be considered. Others have
installed an access panel in the side of the tunnel in the foot
well. This allows easier access to the fuel filter and fuel pump.
One of the things I really dislike about servicing the fuel filter is
that you have to break the fuel lines, and this causes some fuel to
spill. Add insulation to soak up the fuel and you have a recipe for
disaster, so you need to use a box of rags to keep the fuel from
getting all over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the
airplane we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the
airplane that we could have reached up through to get at the fuel
filter. This would have been much easier during construction.... An
alternative would be to install a second fuel filter, and place both
filters at the tank exits under the wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about
how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify
our airplane to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
We bought a tunnel access hatch kit from AirWard and it went in without
problems. I don't have any pictures handy right now, but you can see
the kit on their website:
http://www.airward.com/amelia/search.asp?advnav
<http://www.airward.com/amelia/search.asp?advnav=&action=Search&store
=&c
at=10000016&subcat_10000003=10000016&ShowImages=&ShowDetails=&men
uID=383
~383&id=384>
&action=Search&store=&cat=10000016&subcat_10000003=10000016&ShowI
mages=&
ShowDetails=&menuID=383~383&id=384
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
Genetlemen -
I have a barely-used mint condition Bose headset that needs a new home.
Nothing wrong with it, we just have more headsets than seats.
$850 Shipped CONUS.
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
Battery powered or aircraft powered? Is there even that option?
----- Original Message -----
From: Neal George
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 4:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X
Genetlemen -
I have a barely-used mint condition Bose headset that needs a new
home.
Nothing wrong with it, we just have more headsets than seats.
$850 Shipped CONUS.
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
Oops - thanks Sean -
Battery powered, common GA plugs, straight cord.
Battery powered or aircraft powered? Is there even that option?
Genetlemen -
I have a barely-used mint condition Bose headset that needs a new home.
Nothing wrong with it, we just have more headsets than seats.
$850 Shipped CONUS.
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
You can buy cords from Bose if you have the need, mine are acft powered....I miss
them when I fly in another airplane, the panel powered ones are sweet and much
less cumbersome than the battery powered ones, my RV-10 has plugs for both
types wired in for the front seats...the Bose powered jacks are a single locking
plug and very neat...the wires are teeny tiny though so you need to observe
good strain relief and solder techniques.
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 17:48:57
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
Although I'm not flying yet, can't comment on how this will work out.
However, I added an acces panel of my own doing. See attached link to
picasa site. http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64 click on folder
for "fuel pump and access door" Note, I'm using the andair fuel pump
and have moved the filters/gas colators to the wing. I'm not planning
on needing to get into the pump area except for inspections.
Bob Newman
40176
----- Original Message -----
From: jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel
I was thinking about how difficult it is to service the fuel filter.
First, just to get at it there is a pile of work in removing the tunnel
cover. Some have split the tunnel cover so it isn't necessary to remove
the entire cover to inspect the tunnel, great idea, for those still
building this should be considered. Others have installed an access
panel in the side of the tunnel in the foot well. This allows easier
access to the fuel filter and fuel pump. One of the things I really
dislike about servicing the fuel filter is that you have to break the
fuel lines, and this causes some fuel to spill. Add insulation to soak
up the fuel and you have a recipe for disaster, so you need to use a box
of rags to keep the fuel from getting all over the place.
So here is what I was thinking, I wished that when we built the
airplane we would have installed an access panel on the bottom of the
airplane that we could have reached up through to get at the fuel
filter. This would have been much easier during construction.... An
alternative would be to install a second fuel filter, and place both
filters at the tank exits under the wing walk access panel.
I post this simply to get those who are still building to think about
how they will service the fuel filter. Not sure how we will modify our
airplane to simplify the task.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying
4 Partner Build #40617
Tony Kolar - Kyle Hokel - Wayne Elsner - Jason Kreidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Is there a good way to unspiral the sheath around the cable. I want to remove
about 4 inches of sheath so I can attach the shortened push/pull cable to the
parking brake.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284510#284510
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Pull the cable back past the cut point...NOT ALL the way...use a dremel cut off
wheel then clean up the plastic with an Xacto knife
------Original Message------
From: tomhanaway
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Feb 1, 2010 5:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable
Is there a good way to unspiral the sheath around the cable. I want to remove
about 4 inches of sheath so I can attach the shortened push/pull cable to the
parking brake.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284510#284510
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Rick
Thanks. Once you explain it, it seems so obvious. But until now, I sure didn't
see it.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284517#284517
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Try smashing the sheath with a pair of needle nose pliers at the place
you want to cut. (Or closer to the end to test this method with your
sheath)
That'll spread the sheath a bit without damaging the internal cable.
Then you can use something (I've used a dremel) to cut the sheath where
it is spread open.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: tomhanaway [mailto:tomhanaway(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable
Is there a good way to unspiral the sheath around the cable. I want to
remove about 4 inches of sheath so I can attach the shortened push/pull
cable to the parking brake.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284510#284510
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
I made up bracket for both battery jacks and aircraft powered for
mounting on the sidewalls just ahead of the front seats.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1
Had the wiring harness done as part of my FastStack package - glad I
avoided having to wire the powered jack.
I never occurred to me that cords are available from Bose. I was
dreaming of getting another pair when the '10 was flying but changing
cords sounds like the way to go as long as they are <$500. Thanks for that.
Bill
ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
> You can buy cords from Bose if you have the need, mine are acft
> powered....I miss them when I fly in another airplane, the panel
> powered ones are sweet and much less cumbersome than the battery
> powered ones, my RV-10 has plugs for both types wired in for the front
> seats...the Bose powered jacks are a single locking plug and very
> neat...the wires are teeny tiny though so you need to observe good
> strain relief and solder techniques.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming sheath off Matco push pull brake cable |
If you're talking of the 'choke cable' type, you can unwind it. Clamp
in a vise and unwind. Use a sharp edge file to create a fracture point
and then break by bending back and forth.
Linn
tomhanaway wrote:
>
> Is there a good way to unspiral the sheath around the cable. I want to remove
about 4 inches of sheath so I can attach the shortened push/pull cable to the
parking brake.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hanaway
> Boynton Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284510#284510
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance 2010 |
Property and Casualty insurance has a long history of being cyclical.
Historically the 'periods' between cycles averaged 7 years. the past
couple of decades the cycles have been more dramatic and exaggerated.
Its a long and complicated, story, but it is linked to the amount of
capital in the insurance marketplace. The capital is largely controlled
by the reinsurance marketplace. We may be seeing the beginning of a hard
(rising prices) market. My policy is out for market (renewal in April).
I should be seeing some numbers in the next 30 days. My current policy
is w/ Starr, they are a managing general agent, (MGA) that does the
underwriting, and Berkshire Hathaway & Chubb provide the 'insurance'.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 2/1/2010 10:44 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I had the exact same experience. The last two years no one could
> compete with AIG but this year Global Express beat them out and AIG
> went up in price. When I asked their answer was inflation. For me, it
> was just a renewal and it went up a couple of hundred bucks.
> Oh well, not like I have too much of a choice.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Tim Olson
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Mon, February 1, 2010 3:23:34 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Insurance 2010
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance 2010 |
Given AIG's recent experience, When they go to buy reinsurance (think of
it as laying off a portion of your bet). They are undoubtedly considered
a much higher credit risk and therefore are having to pay more for their
reinsurance, which in turn gets reflected in the price of their policies.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 2/1/2010 10:44 PM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I had the exact same experience. The last two years no one could
> compete with AIG but this year Global Express beat them out and AIG
> went up in price. When I asked their answer was inflation. For me, it
> was just a renewal and it went up a couple of hundred bucks.
> Oh well, not like I have too much of a choice.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Tim Olson
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Mon, February 1, 2010 3:23:34 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Insurance 2010
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance 2010 |
AIG spun off the aircraft insurance unit, IIRC. Now called Chartis
Deems Davis wrote:
> Given AIG's recent experience, When they go to buy reinsurance (think of
> it as laying off a portion of your bet). They are undoubtedly considered
> a much higher credit risk and therefore are having to pay more for their
> reinsurance, which in turn gets reflected in the price of their policies.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Service - Access Panel |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> Im not sure if its possible, but Ive been thinking of adding one filter at each
wing root.
>
> I like the simplified access to the filter, but I also like the idea of having
one fuel filter dedicated to each tank. This way if a filter should get blocked,
I can flip to the other tank and access some fuel there.
>
> Phil
Phil, it is possible and I'm doing it. Take a look at this filter for $28.95 from
Summit Racing. Very small and filters to 40 microns:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230101/
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284593#284593
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net> |
So does all of the above mean the cabin vent air is being exhausted out the doors
through the gap? Or are there other significant leak paths?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284613#284613
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought |
I received a letter from Van's declining a finders fee nomination.
Apparently someone sent in the form, but included my name as both the
nominee and the recipient. So to Van's it appears as though I was
nominating myself =-O . They did take the time to look up my address
and contact info and sent a very polite letter. I much appreciate the
thought that was behind this, but wanted to let whoever originated this
that it didn't make the cut. The signature is undecipherable to me. But
it's definitely not mine.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought |
| From: | ricksked(at)cox.net |
Jeeez Deems, I know gas is expensive but nominate yourself??? ;)
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 11:48:56
Subject: RV10-List: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought |
Wasn't that 'The Deal' You nominate me, and I'll nominate you????????
Deems
On 2/2/2010 12:00 PM, ricksked(at)cox.net wrote:
> Jeeez Deems, I know gas is expensive but nominate yourself??? ;)
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: * Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> *Date: *Tue, 02 Feb 2010 11:48:56 -0700
> *To: *
> *Subject: *RV10-List: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought
>
> I received a letter from Van's declining a finders fee nomination.
> Apparently someone sent in the form, but included my name as both the
> nominee and the recipient. So to Van's it appears as though I was
> nominating myself =-O . They did take the time to look up my address
> and contact info and sent a very polite letter. I much appreciate the
> thought that was behind this, but wanted to let whoever originated
> this that it didn't make the cut. The signature is undecipherable to
> me. But it's definitely not mine.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ~,gM4Gqz.'???????????????8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+?ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP?!jrrj|-&j',r5hum 'oj j+E]t.+-???????????????08IaT1
> jg rz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rh???????????????B{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*'???????????????'k{w/tml
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought |
I say if anyone nominated Deems resubmit it, isn't there a builder # on
the sheet?
No reason you can get credit, if they cant figure out who it was they
wont figure out it was resubmitted.. They know in other words.
From: Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finder's Fee - Thanks for the thought
I received a letter from Van's declining a finders fee nomination.
Apparently someone sent in the form, but included my name as both the
nominee and the recipient. So to Van's it appears as though I was
nominating myself =-O . They did take the time to look up my
address and contact info and sent a very polite letter. I much
appreciate the thought that was behind this, but wanted to let whoever
originated this that it didn't make the cut. The signature is
undecipherable to me. But it's definitely not mine.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance 2010 |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 2/2/2010 7:26 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> Interesting that you mention Starr. I'd never even heard about them
> before because the agent only quotes the most reasonably priced
> insurers.
FWIW, I'd never heard of Starr either, but when I purchased insurance
for my Grumman Yankee last August, they came in at the lowest price
through my agent with equivalent coverage/deductable/etc.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 |
When I started out to build my plane, it was all about me, and pursuing
a lifelong dream. A funny thing happened on the way to the forum......
I saw this today posted on my daughters Blog.
http://ttryons.blogspot.com/ (read Christmas Review - Airplane Ride)
Yup, I'm a happy pappy!
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 |
Great story Deems.
Thanks for the link.
-Scott
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 2, 2010, at 5:45 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
When I started out to build my plane, it was all about me, and pursuing a lifelong
dream. A funny thing happened on the way to the forum......
I saw this today posted on my daughters Blog. http://ttryons.blogspot.com/ (read Christmas Review - Airplane Ride)
Yup, I'm a happy pappy!
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Bill,
No grommet is required as the corrugations will hold the conduit in-place, sort
of like the whole thing was one really long grommet. Some place a little dab
of RTV or proseal at the conduit/rib interface to insure it doesn't move around.
As for enlarging the tooling hole in those 2 inboard ribs, one solution would be
to draw a 3/4 inch diameter circle around the tooling hole. Then using a angle
drill adapter, drill around the inner circumference at as many locations as
you can, then use a file or nibbler to "connect the dots".
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284716#284716
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Contactor question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I've got a couple of continuous duty contactors from Spruce that have the single
small post. When I installed them in a tight place, it was recommended that
the cap side be placed down, which makes it look upside down to me. Anyway, I'm
stumped by which side should have the hot wire. I believe it's the one closest
to the small post. If power is on the other side, what happens? Will the contactor
still close? Is reverse flow a bad thing?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284721#284721
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Garrison" <sean(at)hangerg.com> |
| Subject: | looking for partnership |
If anyone has a RV10 that is looking for a partner near
KFPR-KSUA-KVRB-F45-X26. Please email me back. I wanted to build but I am
finding that I will not have the time required to complete a project.
Sean Garrison
772-618-0468
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14270
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Contactor question |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The relay coil is internally wired to the Battery connection (the small post is
grounded to complete the circuit) so it will only work one way. (No harm in reverse
flow of the main current, that happens during battery charge; but the relay
won't work if it's backwards.
Put an ohmmeter on the small post; the resistance to the battery terminal will
be finite (maybe a few hundred ohms), the resistance to the other terminal will
be infinite.
If the contactor is mounted upside down and its spring fails, the unit will be
stuck "on". I think that's the only downside of mounting it inverted. For starter
contactors people likewise worry that a high positive g maneuver might overpower
the spring and energize the starter if it's upside down. I have no idea
how many g's that takes.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284737#284737
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Silver Hawk O-ring |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
If you are careful, you should not damage the O-ring. It is a blue
fluorosilicone. Normally changed once a year at annual. Any Mooney
service center should have them, since all the 200hp Mooneys use the
same injection(with Bendix or Precision nameplate)
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector. Removing
> the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be replaced. Penn Yann
> Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for $8 plus shipping. It seems
> kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know of a cheaper source?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 131 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 |
I'm hoping for the same kind or reaction from my wife and kids...
What a joy!
On Feb 2, 2010, at 4:45 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> When I started out to build my plane, it was all about me, and
> pursuing a lifelong dream. A funny thing happened on the way to the
> forum......
> I saw this today posted on my daughters Blog. http://ttryons.blogspot.com/
> (read Christmas Review - Airplane Ride)
>
> Yup, I'm a happy pappy!
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
I think that Precision Airmotive will provide you one free of charge,
plus freight if you give them a call. It would certainly be worth the
phone call to see.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon
Olesen
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Silver Hawk O-ring
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
$8 pricey??? Gimme a break!! What's your medical insurance copay? Sorry just
pissy I guess...bitching about 8 bucks...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Silver Hawk O-ring
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches
but when I tried the results were mediocre.
(Note: Matco Axel Installed)
Thanks in advance,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
I would speak up but you said "proper"
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 3, 2010, at 20:18, "Robin Marks" wrote:
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive
> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Robin,
The problem is the castle nut. It's either too tight, or too loose. I've been advised
to get it as close to the 25 pounds as possible on the tight side- it will
loosen up, I hope.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284793#284793
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and addit
ional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin.- With only one hole, to align
the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart.- Drill another
hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex nut,-which
will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees.- Then follow Tim's p
rocedure.
See ya in a couple of months.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:18 PM
Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten
and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but w
hen I tried the results were mediocre.
(Note: Matco Axel Installed)
-
Thanks in advance,
Robin
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
I doubt that drilling a new hole would be very successful unless you had
someway to get the nose strut clamped on your drill press. Proper use
of the belleville washers will eliminate the shimmy .... the back and
forth motion of the nose fork. My experience comes from the Grumman
line which has a similar swiveling nose gear.
There are more than one way of stacking the washers that work. the
'best' stack seems to be two nested washers facing two nested washers
face to face (outside edges to outside edges). You can add motr
bellevelle washers or another flat washer or both .... this is the
experimental part.
Proper tension is 25-35 lbs pull on the wheel axle to make it move sideways.
There's a fine balance between being able to easily drag the plane
around the ramp (or push it back) by the prop and having shimmy problems.
This is all based on the nose fork bushing being vertical and the
rotation plane of the nose fork parallel to the ground.
Hope this helps. Someday I will have to address the same issue, I'm sure.
Linn
Don McDonald wrote:
> Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and
> additional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin. With only one hole, to
> align the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart. Drill
> another hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex
> nut, which will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees. Then
> follow Tim's procedure.
> See ya in a couple of months.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks //* wrote:
>
>
> From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:18 PM
>
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive
> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
> get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too
loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt
comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack
to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The
only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4. It
would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no
vibration.
BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I
regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning of
the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is lost.
I'm not that good, credit Vans design.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
It gets better after the first 2 or 3 re-torques over 200-300
hrs...it's a break-in process from the feel of it.
Definitely right on the landings....the plane makes you look good.
Tim
On Feb 4, 2010, at 12:06 AM, "Robin Marks"
wrote:
>
> Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too
> loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt
> comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack
> to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The
> only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4.
> It
> would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no
> vibration.
> BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I
> regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning
> of
> the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is
> lost.
> I'm not that good, credit Vans design.
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | drilling 3/4 inch holes in inboard ribs |
I just completed the task of up-drilling those 5/8 holes to 3/4, not for
conduit, but for larger bushings. Go to Harbor freight and buy a 3/4
inch max step drill for $7.00 and install it into a drillbit extender. I
already had a quarter inch one, and had to drill out the female end a
tad to accept the 1/4 inch HEX on the step drill. If you don't already
own a drill bit extension, buy one a HF, you'll use it countless times
during your build.
With the 3/4 inch step drill/ extension rig, just up-drill the inboard
rib, thru that to number 2 rib, thru that to number 3 rib, etc.
De-bur the holes, and your done.
Chris Hukill
Wiring the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "velo" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot better than
Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door handle. We want to keep
the standard door mechanism.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE#5434438361737026322
Could someone explain what exactly the B11 wire does in Van's wiring
plans? I cropped an image in the link above.
For one, it seems redundant if one were to keep the jumper on the solenoid.
Also, Knuckolls uses the I terminal for an indicator light, but clearly,
that is not how it is being used here.
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
We just got a set of these for a different type of plane:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/doorlatch.php
Maybe someone else has used them on a 10. They're pretty nice, but the pins
have some up/down travel since they rotate around a circumference, unlike
the stock pins that only move fore/aft. You'd have to compensate for that
somehow but I'm sure it could be done.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Feb 4, 2010 at 8:55 AM, velo wrote:
>
> I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot better
> than Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door handle. We want
> to keep the standard door mechanism.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Steve DeNiri's billet handles and door blocks integrate nicely. The
door blocks are a must. The flush billet handles a very nice to have.
Cheers
Les
#40643
Sent from my iPhone
On 2010-02-04, at 9:55 AM, velo wrote:
>
>
> I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot
> better than Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door
> handle. We want to keep the standard door mechanism.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
http://goodexperience.com/2010/01/what-makes-a-successf.php
Play the video. Clearly, he overlooked the GPS feature! ;)
Jae
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Silver Hawk O-ring |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
This brings up a great question... Is there a list of parts that should be replaced,
checked and/or lubed during the annual? Some may be obvious, while others
not so much.
Thanks,
Jay
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]If you are careful, you should not damage the O-ring. It
is a blue
fluorosilicone. Normally changed once a year at annual. Any Mooney
service center should have them, since all the 200hp Mooneys use the
same injection(with Bendix or Precision nameplate)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284856#284856
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Jae,
I posed this question some time back to both Van's and Skytec. Skytec said they
wished that the Vans drawing never existed, and insisted that their way was correct
for their starter. The response I got from Van's was that it was complicated.
When I asked them to elaborate, they never responded.
There was also some recent discussion about this on the Aeroelectric list, with
Bob Nuchols offering his interpretation.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284862#284862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
Thanks Jim. Well, for now, I will just stick with the skytec
installation
http://skytecair.com/images/Certified%20ST2%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg
From the PDF above, and my own assumptions, it seems like Vans wiring
is very strange. i guess it might work but is sure an odd way to go
about it.
Jae
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Jae,
>
> I posed this question some time back to both Van's and Skytec. Skytec said they
wished that the Vans drawing never existed, and insisted that their way was
correct for their starter. The response I got from Van's was that it was complicated.
When I asked them to elaborate, they never responded.
>
> There was also some recent discussion about this on the Aeroelectric list, with
Bob Nuchols offering his interpretation.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284862#284862
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Problem found...
After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
Thanks for everyone's input,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Linn, I don't know how to access remaining bow. They look like two BV
washers to me.
Rick, I only use my tow bar to get the plane in and out of my tight,
narrow, rusty walled LA hangar. Yuck. Pushing the plane in and out of my
larger hangar I use the prop and can easily maneuver the plane. I never
place force on the spinner.
To all re: the video. Be forewarned It's me holding a heavy flashlight
between my shoulder and chin under the engine while jiggling the bushing
with one hand and probably holding the video recorder too close for
proper focus in the other hand. This is more Felini than Kubrick (I just
watched Clockwork Orange)
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | : RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force |
In my many years with castering nose wheels on Grummans, Glasairs, and
Glastars, I have found that the only penalty for getting the nut too tight
on the Bellevue washers is that it is hard to turn while slow taxiing. The
penalty for too loose is to destroy the nose wheel pant and possibly destroy
the nose gear mountings if you get shimmy on take off and landing.
Do not be afraid to get the torque up to the next hole after you have
achieved the required breakout force. The downside is so slight. It is my
opinion if you can turn the nose wheel with the prop, you are either very
strong or have your breakout force too low.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Linn, I don't know how to access remaining bow. They look like two BV
> washers to me
As long as they look like two BV washers, then they're not compressed
flat. If they were flat, they'd look like plain washers. The BV
washers when installed outside to outside will look like the fork isn't
tightened ....... space between the fork washers and the BV washers.
I've seen them squished flat, all stacked back to belly ..... you name it.
> Rick, I only use my tow bar to get the plane in and out of my tight,
> narrow, rusty walled LA hangar. Yuck. Pushing the plane in and out of my
> larger hangar I use the prop and can easily maneuver the plane. I never
> place force on the spinner.
Someday when the plane is left in the care of an FBO, the lineman WILL
move it and he'll use the spinner. It's best to make it easy for him
(or her) to move it by hand without a towbar.
Linn
> To all re: the video. Be forewarned It's me holding a heavy flashlight
> between my shoulder and chin under the engine while jiggling the bushing
> with one hand and probably holding the video recorder too close for
> proper focus in the other hand. This is more Felini than Kubrick (I just
> watched Clockwork Orange)
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://www.skytecair.com/Wiring_Diag.htm
As a final follow-up, the above link actually gives detailed
instructions specifically for RV-10 builders at the bottom of the page.
I had not scrolled down far enough initially. I haven't verified all the
model numbers, but I am assuming everyone has the NL starters as
indicated on that page.
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
How soon is the torque wrench needed and what size is needed?
thanks
Luis
On Jan 31, 2010, at 12:03 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
> smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower cowl
> off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is faster and
> makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd have
> purchased it....
>
> That is just my opinion.....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever > wrote:
>
>> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is
>> the opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about
>> 50%more expensive?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench |
Hi Luis,
You'll need to torque the counter balance weight on the rudder, but
that can be done later... you get in to much more significant use of
the wrench on the wings/fuel tanks and a painful amount when joining
the fuselage halves.
A ratchet style wrench, 1/4" or 1/2" drive measuring in inch lbs from
Craftsman suffers a little bit for accuracy, but you'll have to monkey
around quite a bit with the more accurate beam style wrench to access
the nuts when joining the spar pass-throughs. I'm sure Snap-On has
the perfect tool. I'm also sure I can't afford it.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Feb 5, 2010, at 12:42 PM, Luis wrote:
> How soon is the torque wrench needed and what size is needed?
>
>
> thanks
>
> Luis
>
>
> On Jan 31, 2010, at 12:03 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>> I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
>> smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower
>> cowl off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is
>> faster and makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd
>> have purchased it....
>>
>> That is just my opinion.....
>> -Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever > > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is
>>> the opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about
>>> 50%more expensive?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New G900 Carbon Fiber panel |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
The picture attached is the first carbon panel out of the mold. The panel was designed
specifically for the Garmin G900 avionics. They will be available Thru
http://www.aerosportproducts.com
These panels will use all the same lower console pieces as our standard panel.
It will also fit with the carbon center armrest console as well as the throttle
quadrant kit.
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285007#285007
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1g900_panel_190.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10_g900_panel1_129.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Here is the video I promised:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
Listers,
I am at the point where I am adjusting the aileron pushrods for
proper length, before I finish with the wing. It seems when I move the
aileron to the down position, I get a rubbing between the W1018 Aileron
Pushrod and the W1013 Inboard Aileron Hing Bracket. This happens on both
ailerons. I talked to Joe at Van's and asked him how much travel the
aileron does, since I might be exceeding the travel when the rubbing
starts. He said that I should have between 15 and 17 down travel. I
measured it and I have about 9 down travel when the rubbing starts. Has
anyone else run into this issue? I have checked to see if I might have
had an extra washer that is moving the pushrod over, but there is only
the one washer and the spacer on the outboard side and 1 washer on the
inboard side
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Smaller is better. A foot-lb wrench is nearly useless. AN3 bolts only go to 25
inch pounds. I suggest a 1/4" drive, inch pound one. It is easy enough to check
their calibration.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285026#285026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
That's quite a bit of slop, any idea what may have caused that wear on the
bushing or the inner portion of the mount? IIRC it was a nice snug fit when
originally installed. Do you think may a side load condition? I would think
the wheel would caster to prevent that. Got me thinking. Gotta jack it up
and see now...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 4:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
Wheel Fork
Here is the video I promised:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
Ed,
Make sure you have all the aileron spacers washers etc on first. Also make
sure the out board rib bracket is aligned perpendicular to the rear spar.
If I read your post correctly it's not rubbing on the opening on the rear
spar but on the hinge bracket itself? Is it the pushrod or the rivets? You
may have to re clock the push rod so the manufac. Head is next to the
bracket/hinge. At full travel I know the pushrod gets close to touching but
not quite. 9 degrees is not much down, and granted there is not that much
down aileron due to the differential throw. Are you using the metal angle
template to establish neutral or do you have the flap installed to compare
it? Double check your pushrod length and remember the stop for the down
throw is on the opposite aileron and only comes into play when the wings are
attached and the aircraft is rigged correctly. Just some thoughts.
Rick S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Godfrey
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rubbing issue
Listers,
I am at the point where I am adjusting the aileron pushrods for
proper length, before I finish with the wing. It seems when I move the
aileron to the down position, I get a rubbing between the W1018 Aileron
Pushrod and the W1013 Inboard Aileron Hing Bracket. This happens on both
ailerons. I talked to Joe at Van's and asked him how much travel the
aileron does, since I might be exceeding the travel when the rubbing
starts. He said that I should have between 15 and 17 down travel. I
measured it and I have about 9 down travel when the rubbing starts. Has
anyone else run into this issue? I have checked to see if I might have
had an extra washer that is moving the pushrod over, but there is only
the one washer and the spacer on the outboard side and 1 washer on the
inboard side
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rubbing issue |
yep, I had the same problem.
This is actually common, here is a response from a while back when this came
up.
January 27, 2010 - February 06, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-fz