RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ge
February 24, 2010 - February 26, 2010
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
the -10!
Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
noticed a change when they added them?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2010, at 12:41 AM, "mouser" wrote:
>
> I am installing static wicks as I go. The Dayton-Granger people
> have published a document showing where they recommend installing
> wicks for the RV-10. Here is a copy: http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/dayton-granger-rv10.png
>
> They recommend two on each elevator, two on the rudder, and three on
> each wing. I bought one of the cheap wicks from skygeek but wasn't
> impressed with the quality, and went instead with the considerably
> more expensive (and very impressive build quality) DG16165 wicks
> (also from skygeek, $42 each, cheaper than spruce).
>
> Cheers,
> -Mouser
>
> RV-10 #40988 (tail cone)
> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287936#287936
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
For what it's worth, I don't have an wicks on my 8A and will not put any on
my 10. I've never had static noise. If you are experiencing noise in your
radio audio, especially a modern radio like an SL-30, recommend looking
elsewhere for the noise source. Some areas to look:
1. Verify connections. Mechanical vibration tends to be the root of many
electrical problems.
2. If you have two communications antennas, see if the problem exists on
both. If not, then look at the one with the problem. For example you can
wiggle the antenna BNC connector to see if you create noise. BNCs are an
easy fix.
3. If you are using an audio panel, turn it off (default mode) and see if
the noise goes away.
4. If you have two communication radio and the noise is in one only, then
look toward the antenna, antenna line, or even radio rack connectors.
4. Change headsets.
Just some quick thoughts.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static Discharge Wicks
If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
the -10!
Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
noticed a change when they added them?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Discharge Wicks
I have been noticing some static in my radio (SL30) lately and I wonder if
the lack of any static wicks (I had several on my C182) on the RV10 might
contribute to radio interference. I would like to know if anyone on this
blog has installed static wicks? If you put them on - where were they
installed and how many? What their experience has been and which ones they
purchased. Spruce wants $52, but an outfit called Sky Geeks wants only
$13-15 for similar static wicks?
Since I am getting close to paint time - I'd appreciate input.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287913#287913
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
You forgot headset jacks grounded to the airframe. They should be
isolated from the airframe and have their own dedicated ground back to
the intercom or audio panel.
Linn
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I don't have an wicks on my 8A and will not put any on
> my 10. I've never had static noise. If you are experiencing noise in your
> radio audio, especially a modern radio like an SL-30, recommend looking
> elsewhere for the noise source. Some areas to look:
> 1. Verify connections. Mechanical vibration tends to be the root of many
> electrical problems.
> 2. If you have two communications antennas, see if the problem exists on
> both. If not, then look at the one with the problem. For example you can
> wiggle the antenna BNC connector to see if you create noise. BNCs are an
> easy fix.
> 3. If you are using an audio panel, turn it off (default mode) and see if
> the noise goes away.
> 4. If you have two communication radio and the noise is in one only, then
> look toward the antenna, antenna line, or even radio rack connectors.
> 4. Change headsets.
>
> Just some quick thoughts.
>
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:53 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static Discharge Wicks
>
>
> If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
> the -10!
>
> Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
> amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
> noticed a change when they added them?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:34 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Static Discharge Wicks
>
>
> I have been noticing some static in my radio (SL30) lately and I wonder if
> the lack of any static wicks (I had several on my C182) on the RV10 might
> contribute to radio interference. I would like to know if anyone on this
> blog has installed static wicks? If you put them on - where were they
> installed and how many? What their experience has been and which ones they
> purchased. Spruce wants $52, but an outfit called Sky Geeks wants only
> $13-15 for similar static wicks?
>
> Since I am getting close to paint time - I'd appreciate input.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287913#287913
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
| Subject: | Air traffic animation showing flights across the U.S. |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9r3H4iHFZk&feature=popt02us0d
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9r3H4iHFZk&feature=popt02us0d>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | How did you set these rivets |
These are on the top wing skin (section 16). Riveting the skin to the
rear spar flange on the inboard edge (where the rear spar reinforcement
fork and doubler plate are). As you can see, mine turned out less than
stellar. I'll drill them out and try again but thought I'd see if
anybody has any secrets. There isn't much room between the tail of the
rivet and the doubler plate to get a bucking bar on it square and I
don't have a squeezer head deep enough to reach over the skin edge.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Bill,
What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar on the
heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help to use a partner
so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar square to the rivet.
While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those rivets
look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5 rivet. Also try
shortening your shooting duration to say just over a second, stop and see how
the rivet's setting. Better to under set and hit it again with a quick blurp
then to blast away. Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Disclaimer - I haven't built my wings....
But you might be able to drill out the interfering rivets, then reset
them after the other one's are bucked??
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
Bill,
What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
square to the rivet.
While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5
rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a
second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and
hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about
work hardening these small rivets.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the
470's up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them
from mucking anything up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> Bill,
> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the
> bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also
> might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on
> keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>
> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
> those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3
> to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say
> just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to
> under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away.
> Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Stella" <Sstella(at)incisaledge.com> |
| Subject: | How did you set these rivets |
I just laid the square shaped bucking bar on the 470's and that kept it
square to the rivet and the duct tape on the bucking bar protected the
rivets.
Steve Stella
#40654 Wings
N521RV reserved
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 11:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How did you set these rivets
These are on the top wing skin (section 16). Riveting the skin to the rear
spar flange on the inboard edge (where the rear spar reinforcement fork and
doubler plate are). As you can see, mine turned out less than stellar.
I'll drill them out and try again but thought I'd see if anybody has any
secrets. There isn't much room between the tail of the rivet and the
doubler plate to get a bucking bar on it square and I don't have a squeezer
head deep enough to reach over the skin edge.
Thanks in advance
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
I guess I didn't get my point across in the original e-mail. The 470's
aren't the problem. The problem is that the tails of the AN426AD3's when
not driven are nearly below the surface of that doubler so they are about
impossible to get at. Compound that with the fact that they ARE NOT
perpendicular to the doubler plate (the flange on that rear spar is at an
angle to the doubler) makes them pretty tough to get at. Laying a bucking
bar flat on the 470's and driving the AD3's in the flange will just lay them
over.
Clear as mud?? I'll try to get a pic to explain.
Thanks,
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
> Bill,
> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
> on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
> to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
> square to the rivet.
>
> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
> rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5 rivet.
> Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a second, stop
> and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and hit it again
> with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about work hardening
> these small rivets.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
Hi all
I've been looking for a d=E9finitive description of the properties of
all the
various types of pull rivets. I've scoured the Standard Aircraft
Handbook,
Advisory Circular AC43.13, Vans builders guide and catalogue, ACS
catalogue
and even googled pull rivets. I can find descriptions of the various
types
but not the specific use of rivets that Vans lists on page 5-16 of the
builders guide.
Can anyone point me in the right direction??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton,. Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
Can't you use a bucking bar with an angled face? Then you don't touch
the 470's and can adjust for the angle difference...
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2010, at 6:31 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton"
wrote:
> >
>
> I guess I didn't get my point across in the original e-mail. The
> 470's aren't the problem. The problem is that the tails of the
> AN426AD3's when not driven are nearly below the surface of that
> doubler so they are about impossible to get at. Compound that with
> the fact that they ARE NOT perpendicular to the doubler plate (the
> flange on that rear spar is at an angle to the doubler) makes them
> pretty tough to get at. Laying a bucking bar flat on the 470's and
> driving the AD3's in the flange will just lay them over.
>
> Clear as mud?? I'll try to get a pic to explain.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:21 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting
>> the bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It
>> also might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100%
>> on keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>>
>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
>> those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3
>> to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say
>> just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better
>> to under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast
>> away. Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> Todd Stovall
>> 728TT (reserved)
>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>