RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gl
April 17, 2010 - May 06, 2010
I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am wondering about
setting up a work bench. =C2-How big? =C2-I'm going to build the bench
from
scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can make it
any dimension then I might as well make it right...
Tony Woods
Not started anything yet!!
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G3X has now has SVT. :) |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
A Garmin GNS-430/W will flow a flight plan to any device that understand
Aviation data on the RS-232 or FLT PLN data on the ARINC interface. This
includes any device from a portable up to an advanced EFIS. I have a backu
p
portable connected to a 430W and any update to the flight plan on the 430 i
s
reflected on the portable. This is also true for Aspen, AFS, GRT and other
EFIS. I would expect no less of a G3X.
--
William
N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 11:18 AM, Perry, Phil wrote
:
> Check out the attached file=85..
>
>
> I only wish I could control a full Garmin stack with the G3X push buttons
> now.
>
>
> As it currently stands, I believe you have to load an approach in your 43
0
> and then do it again on your G3X. Kind of a pain, but it would be nice i
f
> they linked up so you only have to load the approach once.
>
>
> But I really like the direction the product is going!
>
>
> Phil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing up and Painting |
It's starting to become clear that my next major step is composite
finishing. I've just 'finished' basic fabrication of the pants, canpopy
top, doors and cowling but the next step will be going back and getting
these parts to some sort of a final finish status. I guess I need to
pick a path through this including a paint system but then just focus on
composite finishing until I get it to the point where the aluminum is.
Glad I'm building an all metal airplane.
Let the mess begin!
Bill
AirMike wrote:
>
> I found after finishing the plane and getting it flying that the hours upon hours
of finish work on the composite parts were starting to drive me crazy. It
was a real grind and dirty work compared to the build.
>
> If I had one suggestion on painting. Do as much as you can on the composite stuff
to bring it to a high standard. Otherwise it is just lipstick on the pig.
>
> Most of my fellow EAA'ers locally seem to like the DCC Concept system for self
painting. I never got even close to perfection on painting my interior parts,
so I decided that: considering the toxicity of the acrylic urethane systems
that I would farm it out to the pros. Cheap it is not, but spraying is a real
art. You gotta respect those in the build community who can do it well. I could
not. Currently in the paint shop - Jet Glo now being applied.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - phase 1 / painting
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294424#294424
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vettermans plans |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
That's all you get. Just start pre-installing what you know fits where. And then
it's fairly easy to place the remaining items. Some of us have replaced some
of the support brackets with heavier metal. The install is rather simple once
you get into it
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294590#294590
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines in lieu of
the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if anyone else has
done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough to the wing was
handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a bulkhead fitting at the
fuselage which would make the connection to the wing vey simnple.
Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom the fuel valve to the wing is
also an option.
Thoughts . comments anyone?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Tony
This link : ( http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm )
will take you the plans for the "official" EAA workbenches (if there is such
a thing. I put mine on heavy duty wheels (lockable) so I could move it
around easily. They are very strong, dirt cheap to make and entirely
functional. I put MDF on the top of mine as it is soft and there are no
splinters to worry about. I made two and, on occasion, clamped them together
to make a single large surface.
If you alter the dimensions of the plans, you can make smaller (or full size
if space permits) work benches to hold some of your power tools such as band
saw, drill press and grinder.
I found a table top belt sander / disk sander to be invaluable. I learned
from experience that when making long straight cuts on the band saw, it was
better to cut proud of the cut line and then use the sander to take the
material down to the cut line.
This dimpler:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-619-84-drdt-2-hand-dimpling-tool.aspx is
absolute gold. It is much faster and easier to dimple using this tool. I
can't imagine building without it.
When mounting my gear, I placed the whole fuselage (without the tail) on a
table. I used an engine crane to lift it. It was the perfect height to allow
the gear legs to be installed safely.
When you get you kit(s), keep the Styrofoam sheets, or a least some of it,
to put under large components during assembly.
I also made, using 2X4's and MDF, a large dolly for the fuse once I moved
into the "boat" phase. It was 4' wide and about 6' long. It also was on
castoring wheels.
I am a big fan of MDF as it is perfectly flat, cheap and doesn't splinter.
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rwendell@hydro-splash.com
Sent: April-17-10 5:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
I went with 4x8
------Original Message------
From: Tony Woods
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
Sent: Apr 17, 2010 3:00 AM
Hey all.
This sounds like a stupid question, but I'm about to start work on my
empennage in a few weeks and am getting my workshop sorted out.
I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am wondering about
setting up a work bench. How big? I'm going to build the bench from
scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can make it
any dimension then I might as well make it right...
Tony Woods
Not started anything yet!!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vettermans plans |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I was able to figure it out with a little head scratching and some pics from a
build log. I wish I could remember whose so I could give credit, but I forgot.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294646#294646
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I would recommend using the soft aluminum lines. A lot cheaper and
last longer. In fact, you could buy the flaring tools, all fittings,
and the aluminum lines cheaper than the flexible lines...
One suggestion would be to split the line from the fuel valve to the
tanks into 2 lines and use a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as they pass
thru the tunnel walls. Then you basically have 2 straight runs vs. 1
complex run. Just my opinion.... I can send Picts if you'd like to
see how I did it.
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines in
> lieu of the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if
> anyone else has done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough
> to the wing was handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a
> bulkhead fitting at the fuselage which would make the connection to
> the wing vey simnple. Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom
> the fuel valve to the wing is also an option.
>
> Thoughts . comments anyone?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FWF included items |
When I am looking at Van's website for what is included on the FWF kit=2C i
t is different than what I received from them.
I seem to be missing a gascolator and a starter solenoid(contactor).
Reviewing the paper work that comes with the FWF kit=2C I do not see that e
ither of these items are included.
I would think that since the FWF kit for the 10 is the most expensive of al
l the planes=2C and if these items are included for the other planes=2C as
is stated on the web site=2C why not for the 10???
JOhn #409Engine and gear about ready to come off so the plane can be extrac
ted from by basement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I think you are getting into esoterics of fuel line life. Standard
aircraft fuel lines when in wings/fuselage and not exposed to engine
temps or outside air last a very long time. I replaced one that likely
was OEM 40 yrs old last year. Yes, it was hard, no it was not anywhere
close to risk of failing, it just connected two aluminum lines
together and was a "while you are there might as well" deals.
Personally, I'd expect any fuel line inside the fuselage, protected,
to last longer than you will own/fly the aircraft. One can go to the
braided stainless lines and have very long life, or make them lifetime
by getting teflon core hoses. It becomes what your time is worth type
of exercise more than what is cheapest or more durable. If your time
is worth $10 an hour, you can make and remake a lot of soft lines. If
your time is worth $50 an hour, it becomes more of an even trade off.
On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 6:35 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
> I would recommend using the soft aluminum lines. A lot cheaper and last
> longer. In fact, you could buy the flaring tools, all fittings, and the
> aluminum lines cheaper than the flexible lines...
> One suggestion would be to split the line from the fuel valve to the tanks
> into 2 lines and use a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as they pass thru the
> tunnel walls. Then you basically have 2 straight runs vs. 1 complex run.
> Just my opinion.... I can send Picts if you'd like to see how I did it.
> -Mike
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines in lieu of
> the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if anyone else has
> done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough to the wing was
> handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a bulkhead fitting at the
> fuselage which would make the connection to the wing vey simnple.
> Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom the fuel valve to the wing is
> also an option.
>
> Thoughts . comments anyone?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | rivets at bottom, center of fuse/firewall interface |
As I recal=2C the plans called for not riveting the center 8-10 rivets at t
he above described location. The center hole is reserved for the bracket wh
ich helps support the cowling=2C but why did they leave the other holes not
rivetted?
The nose gear=2C main gear and engine are coming off so I can remove the fu
se from my basement=2C and these rivets can only be placed with the nose ge
ar off=2C so is now the time to set these rivets?
Thanks=2C
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF included items |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Both the starter relay and the master relay are in the electrical kit.
Don't know about gascolator, as I am not that far along.
You can get starter relay cheaper at Spruce, master a few bucks more
than Van's price. Really a question of which is easier for you to get
order from. Should be under $50 for both, with shipping.
Kelly
#40866
On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 7:45 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> When I am looking at Van's website for what is included on the FWF kit, it
> is different than what I received from them.
> I seem to be missing a gascolator and a starter solenoid(contactor).
> Reviewing the paper work that comes with the FWF kit, I do not see that
> either of these items are included.
> I would think that since the FWF kit for the 10 is the most expensive of all
> the planes, and if these items are included for the other planes, as is
> stated on the web site, why not for the 10???
> JOhn #409
> Engine and gear about ready to come off so the plane can be extracted from
> by basement.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Mike
Perhaps I am being a bit anal, but I don't like soft AL lines in the
cockpit. While I am sure that the are serviceable, I don't don't think they
will stay intact during an accident if the cockpit was in any way deformed.
My thought is that a braided steel line might be a bit more forgiving.
I have seen pix of a light a/c that was consumed by fire and it is a very
sobering sight.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: April-18-10 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Lines
I would recommend using the soft aluminum lines. A lot cheaper and last
longer. In fact, you could buy the flaring tools, all fittings, and the
aluminum lines cheaper than the flexible lines...
One suggestion would be to split the line from the fuel valve to the tanks
into 2 lines and use a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as they pass thru the
tunnel walls. Then you basically have 2 straight runs vs. 1 complex run.
Just my opinion.... I can send Picts if you'd like to see how I did it.
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines in lieu of
the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if anyone else has
done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough to the wing was
handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a bulkhead fitting at the
fuselage which would make the connection to the wing vey simnple.
Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom the fuel valve to the wing is
also an option.
Thoughts . comments anyone?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | FWF included items |
Van's just has a generic listing of what's in the FWF on their web site.
Last summer I requested a detail list from Vans for the RV-10. Here's what
they sent:
1.00 FF-10 IO-540 W/CT10-3 F.WALL FWD.KIT W/3LVR
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 CT 10-3 QUADRANT KIT 3 LEVER KIT RV-10 540
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF included items
When I am looking at Van's website for what is included on the FWF kit, it
is different than what I received from them.
I seem to be missing a gascolator and a starter solenoid(contactor).
Reviewing the paper work that comes with the FWF kit, I do not see that
either of these items are included.
I would think that since the FWF kit for the 10 is the most expensive of all
the planes, and if these items are included for the other planes, as is
stated on the web site, why not for the 10???
JOhn #409
Engine and gear about ready to come off so the plane can be extracted from
by basement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...) |
| From: | Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com> |
When building that bench, make sure you use 2x4's that are _absolutely_
straight, and even better if they have also seasoned a few years (aka,
perfectly dry).
I bought the "premium" 2x4's at my local Home Depot, and found that after I
assembled my bench (with a 3/4" plywood top) there was a 1/8" to 3/16" warp
in the work surface. Not good. So I got some MDF, set it up perfectly flat
on top of the bench (using washers as shims), and screwed it down.
I'm still working on my tail section, but here are some random things I've
learned so far which I'll type up while they are still fresh in my mind:
- you can save gobs of money by buying tools used (vansairforce, local EAA
chapters, ebay). The problem is that when you are first starting you don't
know which cheap tools are a good deal, and which ones are cheap for a
reason. You also don't know which tools are "needed", and which ones are
more of a gimmick. (For example: what the heck is a "dimpling mallet"?
Why is it any better than a $3 rubber mallet from the local hardware
store?) On the other hand, some of my used tool buys are in the category of
"I'd have never thought to buy this one new" and yet is "OMG completely
invaluable" for certain operations.
- the two most expensive tools which folks rave about are the pneumatic
riveter, and the DTRT. Starting off, I'd save your money.
[most controversial sentence in this post...] I have borrowed a friend's
pnumatic, and it is amazingly fast. This will help you make mistakes
faster. Also, it is quite heavy and bulky, which means you really have to
plan out how you hold it and position it when getting into tight corners to
avoid mis-squeezing a rivet. When you are first starting, slow and careful
is the way to go, since mistakes take so long to fix. I have a normal
c-frame, and I am frankly somewhat baffled about the supposed speed
advantage of a DTRT. Dimpling with a c-frame and mallet is a fast and
pretty simple operation. I've hardly spent any time on it compared to all
the other work. Not what I'd optimize, IMHO.
- As a beginner, I've found that: (a) squeezing a rivet produces a better
result than backriveting which produces a better result than bucking it.
(b) it is hard to mess up a squeezed rivet or a backrivet. It is trivial
to mess up a bucked rivet. (c) squeezing a 3/32" rivet is easy. squeezing
a 1/8" rivet is a feat of strength I am not strong enough to do. Well --
this is true with both the Avery squeezer I borrowed from a friend, and the
old-school hand squeezer I bought used. I recently bought a Cleavland Main
Squeeze, and this thing is a work of art -- it makes squeezing perfect 1/8"
rivets absolutely trivial. I love this tool. (Sadly, it is expensive.)
The pneumatic also makes it possible for me to squeeze a 1/8" rivet, but it
is really finicky about positioning the ram to get it squeezed right,
heavier, and harder to position in awkward places. I find that I end up
with a better result using the main squeeze. (I could see how with practice
I'd get better with the pneumatic and it would be faster -- but I have time
to do things right...)
- It is easier to mess up a bucked rivet with too much air pressure than
with too little. Always start with too little and dial it up, not the
reverse.
- For your scotchbrite wheel you can mount it on a grinder or a buffer. I
bought a cheap grinder, which works. My friends bought a cheap buffer,
which has a longer shaft. I envy them, since they can get their wheel into
more tight places.
- Deburring the inside of lightening holes is a real pain. Until you get a
$30 die grinder from Home Depot and a 1" scotchbrite wheel -- then it
becomes easy (and incredibly noisy).
- Buy a cheap belt/disc sander. I got a combo 1" belt/5" disc sander from
Harbor Freight. It is _way_ better to cut outside a line and sand down than
to try and cut a line.
- Don't try to debur the edge of a skin just using a die grinder and
scotchbrite wheel. You will waste too much time, and burn through grinder
wheels like crazy. Easier is to: (a) use a regular file (not a vixen file!)
to get rid of the cut marks and make the edge flat. (b) then quickly run
the die grinder down the edge.
- For smoothing/deburring the cut edge of thicker pieces: start off with a
file (not a vixen file!). You will want some jeweler's files for getting
inside corners. This will get rid of the cut marks. Then use sandpaper (I
find that sanding sponges work well here). Then a quick buffing on the
scotchbrite wheel will polish it nice and smooth. You will get much worse
results if you go straight to the scotchbrite wheel (as I did the first time
I tried this).
- I haven't yet found a use for a vixen file. This tool appears to be made
for taking off aluminum quickly from rough-cut pieces. Most of the RV-10
that I've encountered so far is pre-cut pieces. My belt/disc sander works
better for me for getting edges down to a line.
- If you leave the blue plastic on pieces it helps stop you from scratching
the nice shiny alclad, and makes it prettier. I hear that if you leave this
stuff on too long it becomes a real pain to take off -- but I have not yet
had that problem, after 2 months. (Fingers crossed.)
- I got a pair of chucking reamers for match drilling the pre-drilled holes
(#30 and #40). As a result, I tend not to get burrs on holes. Well, I
still go through the motions of deburring, but for the life of me I can't
tell the difference in pre- and post-deburring of these holes. Perhaps I'm
doing something wrong, or perhaps using this tool means I don't have to
deburr.
- You can never have enough light in your workshop. If in doubt, put up
some more fluorescent strips.
- Join a local EAA chapter and visit a few builders, to see what they are
doing and get their advice.
- Take a SportAir workshop if you can. Working on aluminum which is Not
Your Plane lets you make your mistakes on stuff which doesn't matter.
- The vertical stabilizer nose-ribs are too long, and you will want to sand
1/8" off their tips to avoid denting the skin. Do this _before_ you
assemble it for the first time. (oops) Read Tim Olsen's site, which
contains this critical tip and others.
- When you go to put your vertical stabilizer skin on for the first test
fit, get a friend to help you wrestle it. This is a challenging thing to do
by yourself.
- When putting that vertical stabilizer skin on, pull out the fiberglass tip
fairings which are supposed to match it. You may have to coax the bend of
the front of the skin to match the bend at the nose of the fairing -- and
easier to do this while the skin is still not attached. (Yup, I never
thought of this one...)
- If the plans tell you not to dimple/match drill a hole, put tape over it
to remind you. You will forget. Even if you circle it in bright red marker
to remind yourself.
- _Always_ clamp down a part before riveting it, either with the squeezer or
the rivet gun. This will save you much grief.
- Speaking of which, the Irwin bar clamps (or similar) are absolutely
incredibly useful for clamping down random things to your bench while you
work on them. A few cleco clamps are also really useful to have.
- When inventorying your kit, check the formed parts for cracks. Never
thought of checking for this, and a cracked piece later slowed me down while
I waited for a replacement in the mail. (Double check part R-1004.)
- If you buy a two-part primer, and a "calibrated paint mixing cup", double
check that the calibration is accurate. My first batch of primer (and hence
the entire inside of my vertical stabilizer) had twice as much reducer than
it should have, since the calibrated scale was printed on the wrong part of
the cup...
- Speaking of which, if you want to hear a whole series of people with very
strong (and divergent) opinions on a plane building topic, ask about what
primer to use. Then step back, waay back. Also can be a good way of losing
your new plane-building friends. You will spend way too long deciding what
you want to do, and form your own opinion. By the time you spend a
gazillion hours on your chosen technique, you too will either hate it, or
feel strongly that your chosen method is the one true way ('cause why else
would you have put all that work into it?).
Chris
On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 6:14 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Tony
>
> This link : ( http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm )
> will take you the plans for the "official" EAA workbenches (if there is
> such
> a thing. I put mine on heavy duty wheels (lockable) so I could move it
> around easily. They are very strong, dirt cheap to make and entirely
> functional. I put MDF on the top of mine as it is soft and there are no
> splinters to worry about. I made two and, on occasion, clamped them
> together
> to make a single large surface.
>
> If you alter the dimensions of the plans, you can make smaller (or full
> size
> if space permits) work benches to hold some of your power tools such as
> band
> saw, drill press and grinder.
>
> I found a table top belt sander / disk sander to be invaluable. I learned
> from experience that when making long straight cuts on the band saw, it was
> better to cut proud of the cut line and then use the sander to take the
> material down to the cut line.
>
> This dimpler:
> http://www.averytools.com/pc-619-84-drdt-2-hand-dimpling-tool.aspx is
> absolute gold. It is much faster and easier to dimple using this tool. I
> can't imagine building without it.
>
> When mounting my gear, I placed the whole fuselage (without the tail) on a
> table. I used an engine crane to lift it. It was the perfect height to
> allow
> the gear legs to be installed safely.
>
> When you get you kit(s), keep the Styrofoam sheets, or a least some of it,
> to put under large components during assembly.
>
> I also made, using 2X4's and MDF, a large dolly for the fuse once I moved
> into the "boat" phase. It was 4' wide and about 6' long. It also was on
> castoring wheels.
>
> I am a big fan of MDF as it is perfectly flat, cheap and doesn't splinter.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rwendell@hydro-splash.com
> Sent: April-17-10 5:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
>
>
> I went with 4x8
> ------Original Message------
> From: Tony Woods
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
> Sent: Apr 17, 2010 3:00 AM
>
>
> Hey all.
>
> This sounds like a stupid question, but I'm about to start work on my
> empennage in a few weeks and am getting my workshop sorted out.
>
> I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am wondering about
> setting up a work bench. How big? I'm going to build the bench from
> scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can make it
> any dimension then I might as well make it right...
>
> Tony Woods
> Not started anything yet!!
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FWF included items |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
There is no gascolator on the -10.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294689#294689
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rivets at bottom, center of fuse/firewall interface |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
John,
I cannot think of any reason not to do those rivets now, if you are going to have
to remove the engine and nose gear anyway. I wound up using Cherrymax rivets
there because I was not willing to pull the engine for 8-10 rivets.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294691#294691
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: It was warm yesterday, but that's ridiculous! |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294698#294698
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I've done a complete replacement of brake lines with Bonaco. That's
including the tunnel lines and everything.
I plan on shooting a video of my routing and sharing my hose length
findings for others considering a similar replacement. But it'll be
another week or two before I get a chance.
I would have shaved a few inches on the tunnel lines and 1 inch on the
tunnel -> Landing gear line. The Teflon hoses will probably last longer
than the airplane. Their inspection will still be inspected for
condition annually.
The plan is to do the same thing for the fuel lines. Once I get all the
fuel system components placed, I'll measure for the fuel lines and get
them ordered from Bonaco. I'm going to firesleeve the tunnel fuel lines
while I'm at it. I am also swapping the aluminum 45 degree fitting
that penetrates the firewall with a steel version.
Once I get there I'll share the hose lengths, etc...
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Lines
Mike
Perhaps I am being a bit anal, but I don't like soft AL lines in the
cockpit. While I am sure that the are serviceable, I don't don't think
they will stay intact during an accident if the cockpit was in any way
deformed. My thought is that a braided steel line might be a bit more
forgiving.
I have seen pix of a light a/c that was consumed by fire and it is a
very sobering sight.
Cheers
Les
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: April-18-10 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Lines
I would recommend using the soft aluminum lines. A lot cheaper and last
longer. In fact, you could buy the flaring tools, all fittings, and the
aluminum lines cheaper than the flexible lines...
One suggestion would be to split the line from the fuel valve to the
tanks into 2 lines and use a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as they pass
thru the tunnel walls. Then you basically have 2 straight runs vs. 1
complex run. Just my opinion.... I can send Picts if you'd like to see
how I did it.
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines
in lieu of the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if
anyone else has done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough to
the wing was handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a bulkhead
fitting at the fuselage which would make the connection to the wing vey
simnple. Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom the fuel valve to
the wing is also an option.
Thoughts . comments anyone?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 9:38 AM, Chris Colohan wrote:
> - If you leave the blue plastic on pieces it helps stop you from scratching
> the nice shiny alclad, and makes it prettier. I hear that if you leave this
> stuff on too long it becomes a real pain to take off -- but I have not yet
> had that problem, after 2 months. (Fingers crossed.)
If you leave the vinyl on the edges, you won't get a fully smooth,
deburred edge.
Scotchbrite wheel gives nicer edges than 1" pad in die grinder. Each
has its use, and the die grinder is necessary for some things you
can't reach with Scotchbrite wheel.
> - I got a pair of chucking reamers for match drilling the pre-drilled holes
> (#30 and #40). As a result, I tend not to get burrs on holes. Well, I
> still go through the motions of deburring, but for the life of me I can't
> tell the difference in pre- and post-deburring of these holes. Perhaps I'm
> doing something wrong, or perhaps using this tool means I don't have to
> deburr.
Get #41 reamer. You will get holes that are the right size after
dimpling, rather than loose.
> - You can never have enough light in your workshop. If in doubt, put up
> some more fluorescent strips.
> - Join a local EAA chapter and visit a few builders, to see what they are
> doing and get their advice.
Good advice.
Kelly
#40866
Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...) |
... while I see some sense in the comment below about the pneumatic
rivet squeezer, the DRDT-2 Dimpler I found to be a huge improvement
over the C-Frame and mallet approach. I used the C-Frame for the
first half of the project, then borrowed a fellow builders DRDT-2 for
the second half. It's much faster, less prone to mistakes and
QUIETER. If I ever start another project, the first thing I will do
is buy my own DRDT-2.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Apr 18, 2010, at 9:38 AM, Chris Colohan wrote:
>
>
> "- the two most expensive tools which folks rave about are the
> pneumatic riveter, and the DTRT. Starting off, I'd save your
> money. [most controversial sentence in this post...] I have
> borrowed a friend's pnumatic, and it is amazingly fast. This will
> help you make mistakes faster. Also, it is quite heavy and bulky,
> which means you really have to plan out how you hold it and position
> it when getting into tight corners to avoid mis-squeezing a rivet.
> When you are first starting, slow and careful is the way to go,
> since mistakes take so long to fix. I have a normal c-frame, and I
> am frankly somewhat baffled about the supposed speed advantage of a
> DTRT. Dimpling with a c-frame and mallet is a fast and pretty
> simple operation. I've hardly spent any time on it compared to all
> the other work. Not what I'd optimize, IMHO."
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rwendell@hydro-splash.com
> Sent: April-17-10 5:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
>
>
> I went with 4x8
> ------Original Message------
> From: Tony Woods
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
> Sent: Apr 17, 2010 3:00 AM
>
>
> Hey all.
>
> This sounds like a stupid question, but I'm about to start work on my
> empennage in a few weeks and am getting my workshop sorted out.
>
> I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am
> wondering about
> setting up a work bench. How big? I'm going to build the bench from
> scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can
> make it
> any dimension then I might as well make it right...
>
> Tony Woods
> Not started anything yet!!
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Walker" <n520tx(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...) |
Not to mention a MUCH smaller chance of whackin your hand with the
mallet.
(a DRDT-2 convert)
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...)
... while I see some sense in the comment below about the pneumatic
rivet squeezer, the DRDT-2 Dimpler I found to be a huge improvement over
the C-Frame and mallet approach. I used the C-Frame for the first half
of the project, then borrowed a fellow builders DRDT-2 for the second
half. It's much faster, less prone to mistakes and QUIETER. If I ever
start another project, the first thing I will do is buy my own DRDT-2.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Apr 18, 2010, at 9:38 AM, Chris Colohan wrote:
"- the two most expensive tools which folks rave about are the
pneumatic riveter, and the DTRT. Starting off, I'd save your money.
[most controversial sentence in this post...] I have borrowed a
friend's pnumatic, and it is amazingly fast. This will help you make
mistakes faster. Also, it is quite heavy and bulky, which means you
really have to plan out how you hold it and position it when getting
into tight corners to avoid mis-squeezing a rivet. When you are first
starting, slow and careful is the way to go, since mistakes take so long
to fix. I have a normal c-frame, and I am frankly somewhat baffled
about the supposed speed advantage of a DTRT. Dimpling with a c-frame
and mallet is a fast and pretty simple operation. I've hardly spent any
time on it compared to all the other work. Not what I'd optimize,
IMHO."
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rwendell@hydro-splash.com
Sent: April-17-10 5:17 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
I went with 4x8
------Original Message------
From: Tony Woods
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
Sent: Apr 17, 2010 3:00 AM
Hey all.
This sounds like a stupid question, but I'm about to start work on
my
empennage in a few weeks and am getting my workshop sorted out.
I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am
wondering about
setting up a work bench. How big? I'm going to build the bench
from
scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can
make it
any dimension then I might as well make it right...
Tony Woods
Not started anything yet!!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Woods" <twoods(at)sesa.af> |
| Subject: | Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...) |
Guys I am extremely grateful for your wise words and input. Chris your
comments and guidance are very, very much appreciated. For a total
newbie, it gives huge confidence to know that there is a whole bunch of
other people out there who also started out thinking a bucking bar was
somewhere they got thrown out of in Anchorage....
Tony Woods
Sustainable Energy Services Afghanistan
=D8=AE=D8=AF=D9=85=D8=A7=D8 =D8=A7=D9=86=D8=B1=DA=98=DB=8C
=D8=A7=D9=81=D8=BA=D8=A7=D9=86=D8=B3=D8=D8=A7=D9=86
www.sesa.af
twoods(at)sesa.af
int tel +6421576555
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Sent: Monday, 19 April 2010 12:44 p.m.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...)
Not to mention a MUCH smaller chance of whackin your hand with the
mallet.
(a DRDT-2 convert)
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter <mailto:jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...)
... while I see some sense in the comment below about the pneumatic
rivet squeezer, the DRDT-2 Dimpler I found to be a huge improvement over
the C-Frame and mallet approach. I used the C-Frame for the first half
of the project, then borrowed a fellow builders DRDT-2 for the second
half. It's much faster, less prone to mistakes and QUIETER. If I ever
start another project, the first thing I will do is buy my own DRDT-2.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Apr 18, 2010, at 9:38 AM, Chris Colohan wrote:
"- the two most expensive tools which folks rave about are the pneumatic
riveter, and the DTRT. Starting off, I'd save your money. [most
controversial sentence in this post...] I have borrowed a friend's
pnumatic, and it is amazingly fast. This will help you make mistakes
faster. Also, it is quite heavy and bulky, which means you really have
to plan out how you hold it and position it when getting into tight
corners to avoid mis-squeezing a rivet. When you are first starting,
slow and careful is the way to go, since mistakes take so long to fix.
I have a normal c-frame, and I am frankly somewhat baffled about the
supposed speed advantage of a DTRT. Dimpling with a c-frame and mallet
is a fast and pretty simple operation. I've hardly spent any time on it
compared to all the other work. Not what I'd optimize, IMHO."
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rwendell@hydro-splash.com
Sent: April-17-10 5:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
I went with 4x8
------Original Message------
From: Tony Woods
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall access
Sent: Apr 17, 2010 3:00 AM
Hey all.
This sounds like a stupid question, but I'm about to start work on my
empennage in a few weeks and am getting my workshop sorted out.
I've got a good set of tools coming from PlaneTools, but am wondering
about
setting up a work bench. How big? I'm going to build the bench from
scratch, so wondering how wide and long would be good, since I can make
it
any dimension then I might as well make it right...
Tony Woods
Not started anything yet!!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rivets at bottom, center of fuse/firewall interface |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Go for it now. Also as I recall there were some prior posts about the cowling bracket
being too weak (and breaking) so I fabricated a stronger one that I secure
with a pop rivet - not the best solution. I would suggest a nut plate to secure
the cowling bracket. Lots stronger - super secure - and easily removable.
I see no reason not to button those holes up now.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294790#294790
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Hands down go for the Bonaco. I futzed with those darned aluminum lines for hours
and then finally ordered the Bonaco. Nice folks - good service - reasonable
price. On the pass thru (to the wing) just cut a bushing in half on the band
saw and snap it in around the Bonaco line. After hours of frustration, I had my
fuel lines installed in something like 45 minutes. I think that they have an
OSH special if you are going there.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294791#294791
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used a combination of the existing aluminum lines, Bonaco lines, and some braided
lines I made myself. If I was doing it again, i would use nothing but Bonaco
lines for the Brakes, and maybe a few homemade braided along with Bonaco for
the fuel lines in the tunnel.
As far as a pass through to the wings, try these:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an832.php
Here are a couple of shots of my tunnel. The all blue lines are Bonaco and the
ones with red are mine.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294808#294808
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fueltray_581.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuellines_842.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | AHRS Reboots (was Heads up - AFS 4500 potential in flight |
reboot issue)
SnVzdCB3YW50ZWQgdG8gZm9sbG93IHRoaXMgdXAuICBJIGluc3RhbGxlZCB0aGUgdXBkYXRlIGFu
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cyBxdW90ZSB0aGluZ3MgbGlrZSAiTVRCRiAxMCwwMDAgaHJzIiB3aGVuIHRoZXkgbWF5IG9ubHkg
aGF2ZSBhIGZldyBzeXN0ZW1zIG91dCBpbiB0aGUgd29ybGQgd2l0aCByZWFsbHkgbG93IG51bWJl
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
Dear Listers,
Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the
only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it
would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that
goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source?
I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
Thanks!
PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | AHRS Reboots (was Heads up - AFS 4500 potential in flight |
reboot issue)
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np/pra/body/2aUNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Just got back from SNF and wading through emails.
The soft aluminum lines will bend and stretch during a really bad
accident before rupturing .... you won't bend or stretch as much.
Flexible hoses won't stretch .... and offer a better opportunity for
pulling something loose. Both typres have their advantages .....
flexible lines are great for compound routes where many bends are
needed, soft aluminum is lighter, less expensive, easily bent/worked,
and as long as it doesn't get repetitive bending forces lasts a long time.
Just my 2 pennies.
Linn
Les Kearney wrote:
> Mike
>
> Perhaps I am being a bit anal, but I don't like soft AL lines in the
> cockpit. While I am sure that the are serviceable, I don't don't think
> they will stay intact during an accident if the cockpit was in any way
> deformed. My thought is that a braided steel line might be a bit more
> forgiving.
>
> I have seen pix of a light a/c that was consumed by fire and it is a
> very sobering sight.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Michael Kraus
> *Sent:* April-18-10 7:35 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuel Lines
>
> I would recommend using the soft aluminum lines. A lot cheaper and
> last longer. In fact, you could buy the flaring tools, all fittings,
> and the aluminum lines cheaper than the flexible lines...
>
> One suggestion would be to split the line from the fuel valve to the
> tanks into 2 lines and use a 90 degree bulkhead fitting as they pass
> thru the tunnel walls. Then you basically have 2 straight runs vs. 1
> complex run. Just my opinion.... I can send Picts if you'd like to
> see how I did it.
>
> -Mike
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, "Les Kearney" > wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am planning on installing Bonoco Inc steel braided fel lines in
>> lieu of the soft aluminium lines spec'd by Vans. I am wondering if
>> anyone else has done this and if so how the the fuselage passthrough
>> to the wing was handled. It would seem that one otion is to use a
>> bulkhead fitting at the fuselage which would make the connection to
>> the wing vey simnple. Alternatively a single run of fuel line fom the
>> fuel valve to the wing is also an option.
>>
>> Thoughts . comments anyone?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>> #40643 - Systems / Wiring / Finishing
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Instrumentation Checkout - HDTV Video |
Dear Listers,
Last week I ran the IO-390 on the RV-8 for about 12 minutes and went though and
checked all of the various systems and sensors. I talked though the each of
the things as I was checking them in an HD video I edited of the session.
Thought some might find it interesting...
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA
.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Static Ports and 1/4 ID to 1/4 OD |
For those that have the Cleaveland static ports, what have you done to
transfer from the 1/4 ID tubing that the ports need to the 1/4 OD tubing
that most everything else uses? The Cleaveland installation
instructions mention to just slide the 1/4 OD into the 1/4 ID, but that
doesn't sound like it would be optimal for a leak free transition.
thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
At 03:53 PM 4/19/2010 Monday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Linn Walters
>
>Matt, cut the tubing, insert a 'T' with a short stub of tubing. Put a plug in
the tube of a type that you can pull out easily if needed.
>Simple, light, and inexpensive.
>Linn
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like
the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like
it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube
that goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
>>
>>Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin
source?
>>
>>I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
>>
>>Thanks!
What a great idea, Linn! Thanks. Here's what I did tonight including a couple
of pictures...
I added a small "T" Nylon fitting in the 1/4" tube for static air just in front
of the instrument panel under the left cockpit rail. I cut a short piece of
1/4" tubing and filled it with black RTV and then put a piece of heat shrink tubing
over it to form a handle. The whole thing fits nicely under the cockpit
rail and from the pilot's position is just barely visible, yet can be accessed
easy. In the event that icing conditions occur, the fitting can be unscrewed
and the plug removed for cabin venting.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Not sure where you are finding this "requirement". #1. There is no IFR
certification of OBAM aircraft. #2.You only have to meet the
requirements of 91.205, para a, b, c and d. There is no mention of
alternate static source in that FAR. You can't fly IFR until you
complete Phase I and your operating limitations will state after Phase
I that for night VFR you have to meet 91.205 C and for IFR meet 91.205
D. It is up to you, the builder to decide if you need anything else.
If your static system is at all like the RV-10, with a port on each
side of the tailcone, and you incorporated an uphill section to the
top of the tailcone to join the lines from each port, there really is
no need for an alternate static source. Mooney used the same design
and through the 1960s had no alternate source and no drain. Only after
Part 23 was issued did they start incorporating those features. IMHO,
just adds complexity and potential for leaks. Perhaps I would think
differently if you were based outdoors in Oregon or NJ, but hangared
in most parts of the country, you will almost never get any water into
the system.
Kelly
#40866
On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like
the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it
would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube
that goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin
source?
>
> I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
>
> Thanks!
>
> PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
Matt,
Really enjoy your videos. Nice work.
Here's an interesting idea for an alternate source:
http://www.rv7blog.com/2008/11/09/alternate-static-air-valve. Safeair
has an alternate source kit, but it seems it would be pretty easy to do
yourself: http://www.safeair1.com/PS_1.htm near bottom of page.
-Sean #40303
On 4/19/10 3:50 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like
the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like
it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube
that goes along under the left hand canopy rail.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick
in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin
source?
>
> I'm assuming this will meet the requirement?
>
> Thanks!
>
> PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration
this weekend. Cool?
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
Hello Matt,
simple, still unscrewing in icing condition would not be my thing.
In 2007 I've posted that once:
hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve
CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line.
And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication.
br Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Try one of these miniature air control valves from McMaster-Carr, Clippard, or
AMR.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294940#294940
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8399kp2s_995.gif
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8399kp1s_102.gif
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tv_2s_158.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland Static Ports and 1/4 ID to 1/4 OD |
I used 1/4" ID Tygon between the static ports up to a 1/4" tee fitting secured
to the mid-point on the bulkhead. From the tee fitting there's 1/4" ID Tygon
coming out and transitions to 1/4" OD standard static line along the longeron.
The 1/4" OD line is very snug inside the Tygon and I've also got a small hose
clamp at the transition point to insure sealing. No issues with leaks in 2
years.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 9:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cleveland Static Ports and 1/4 ID to 1/4 OD
For those that have the Cleaveland static ports, what have you done to
transfer from the 1/4 ID tubing that the ports need to the 1/4 OD tubing
that most everything else uses? The Cleaveland installation
instructions mention to just slide the 1/4 OD into the 1/4 ID, but that
doesn't sound like it would be optimal for a leak free transition.
thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | do I need a transponder? |
I am currently planning my IFR panel for my RV10. Does anyone know what
the future requirements for ADSB transceivers will be and does it negate
the need for a mode C transponder. If that's the case what is the
timeframe for not needing a mode C and needing the UAT for the ADSB?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Beebe <richard.beebe(at)yale.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Workbenches (and other stuff I know now...) |
Chris Colohan wrote:
> When building that bench, make sure you use 2x4's that are _absolutely_
> straight, and even better if they have also seasoned a few years (aka,
> perfectly dry).
>
> I bought the "premium" 2x4's at my local Home Depot, and found that
> after I assembled my bench (with a 3/4" plywood top) there was a 1/8" to
> 3/16" warp in the work surface. Not good. So I got some MDF, set it up
> perfectly flat on top of the bench (using washers as shims), and screwed
> it down.
If you have a tablesaw, a better option is a torsion box top. I make
mine out of a 1/2" MDF core, 1/4" MDF bottom and either 1/2 or 3/4" MDF
top. By their nature, they pretty much have to come out dead flat. In
case you don't know what it is there's an example here:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/
Alternately, you can rip some 3/4" plywood into 3 1/2" strips and glue
them together to make your own "2x4"s.
--Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, transponder and encoder have to meet TSO standards. Encoder may
not be too difficult through FAR 43 Appendix E, but transponder pretty
much will have to have TSO. GPS for IFR has to meet TSO requirements.
Altimeter has to meet same requirements as encoder. Most other
instruments like airspeed and gyros are at your discretion as the
builder. As long as you can fly the assigned clearance accurately with
the instruments you install, I believe you are okay.
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Linn Walters
wrote:
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> I appreciate the data point. I think we all know that FAA inspectors are
>> not very familiar with OBAM requirements. Has been discussed many times that
>> there is no IFR certification of OBAM aircraft.
>
> I've been researching IFR use of non-TSOd equipment and am just as confused
> as when I started out. I believe that even if you are OBAM, you are still
> subject to a transponder/altimeter certification every two years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: do I need a transponder? |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
Yes, you need it.. No plans to get rid of transponders any time soon.. even when
you get your ADS-B equipment, the transponder will be required as a backup...
Of course, eventually that will change, but I don't see it being done any
time soon (like no sooner than 15-20 years).
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295040#295040
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
Dear Listers,
I'm working with the local FSDO this week and had my airframe inspection on Monday
will get my sign-off this Friday if all goes well. Looking over the requirements
for IFR, it appears that I've got everything I need as far as equipment
is concerned. I have a Garmin SL-30 for Com/Nav and a Garmin GTX-327 for Mode
C transponder. All of the other equipment and functionality is provided by
the GRT Horizon HX sytems including the encoder, attitude, airspeed, altitude,
compass, etc, etc. I do not have any steam gauges or other flight instruments
other than what is provided by GRT through an HX installation.
My question is can my RV-8 be approved for IFR flight with this compliment of GRT
HX specific instrumentation? Or, would I need to have a TSO'd encoder and/or
other TSO'd pieces such as rate-of-turn, slip, sensitive altimeter, artificial
horizon, direction gyro, etc?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
| From: | "Kellym" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You do NOT need to worry about this for your airframe inspection. You will only
get approved for Day VFR and only need to meet Day VFR requirements. There is
NO such thing as IFR certification of an OBAM aircraft. You will get operating
limitations restricting you to day VFR for Phase one, and then state for night
VFR and IFR you have to comply with the requirements of 91.205. You won't
find any TSO requirements there. The only requirements for TSO are found in other
parts, such as the transponder, which for all practical purposes must be
TSO. Your Altimeter and encoder will need to meet the TSO requirements, but you
can have a competent avionics shop certify your altimeter, encoder and static
system, as well as the required transponder check all in one operation.
TSO equimpent, with the exceptions above is only required for Part 135 and similar
for hire parts.
[quote="Matt Dralle"]Dear Listers,
I'm working with the local FSDO this week and had my airframe inspection on Monday
will get my sign-off this Friday if all goes well.
My question is can my RV-8 be approved for IFR flight with this compliment of GRT
HX specific instrumentation? Or, would I need to have a TSO'd encoder and/or
other TSO'd pieces such as rate-of-turn, slip, sensitive altimeter, artificial
horizon, direction gyro, etc?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
--------
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295050#295050
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Matt,
Yes, I think you're okay; but with the irony that you won't be able to get home
to KLVK in ifr. There are only 2 approaches into KLVK; a GPS approach, which
requires an ifr TSO certified gps; and an ILS, which in Livermore's case, also
requires an ADF (or you can sub an ifr approved gps).
PS What hangar are you in? I'm in 311.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295052#295052
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Matt,
Also, it wasn't clear to me: if the GRT goes belly up, do you have any backup instruments?
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295053#295053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
Yes, I've got dual AHRSs, Magnetometers, GPSs, and triple HX displays. I also
have a completely redundant and independent power source for the primary HX Display/ARHS/Magnetometer/GPS/SL-30
in case the Vertical Power VP-200 dies.
Matt
At 08:11 PM 4/20/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>
>Also, it wasn't clear to me: if the GRT goes belly up, do you have any backup
instruments?
>
>Bob
>
>--------
>Bob Turner
>RV-10 QB
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | fehdxlbb(at)gmail.com |
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Matt Dralle wrote:
> Yes, I've got dual AHRSs, Magnetometers, GPSs, and triple HX displays. I also
have a completely redundant and independent power source for the primary HX
Display/ARHS/Magnetometer/GPS/SL-30 in case the Vertical Power VP-200 dies.
>
> Matt
The question asked above is what is your approved GPS? The only ones I know that
are regularly installed in experimentals are the 430, 530 and 480.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295070#295070
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Get Clippard switch here:
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2SP
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295093#295093
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You don't need an approved GPS to fly ifr, if you only go where a VOR and/or ILS
will take you. However, Matt's home airport (KLVK) represents a problem, as
there is no approach you can legally shoot without an approved gps (or, ADF).
Matt, one comment: be cautious after grt software updates, as that represents a
single point failure of all your attitude info.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295125#295125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
What do people think of this idea:
I was thinking of permanently leaving my backup (Dynon D-6 most likely) instruments
on alternate (cabin) static pressure, and have no "alternate static" valve
on the main instruments (most likely GRT).
Yes, they would always slightly disagree with the main instruments. But a static
blockage would also be immediately obvious.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295126#295126
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
This would work .... but why have instrumentation that 'disagrees'.
It's like a dead watch .... accurate time twice a day.
How come you're worried about your static ports becoming blocked, but
haven't addressed a blocked pitot??? Both are subject to ice/water
intrusion ..... but proper plumbing inside the fuse/wing keep that
problem down to a minimum.
I'd put a simple mod to the static line like Matt did.
Linn
Bob Turner wrote:
>
> What do people think of this idea:
> I was thinking of permanently leaving my backup (Dynon D-6 most likely) instruments
on alternate (cabin) static pressure, and have no "alternate static" valve
on the main instruments (most likely GRT).
> Yes, they would always slightly disagree with the main instruments. But a static
blockage would also be immediately obvious.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295126#295126
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting... |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I have yet to hear of a mechanism for both static ports to get blocked
at the same time. Even with driving rain followed by freezing, only
one side would get blocked, Perhaps if you got mud daubers in both
sides. Blockage should be obvious before or shortly after lift off,
with airspeed being way off. If it makes you feel better, your plan
certainly is a way to always have alternate source of info, but might
drive you crazy with differences in airspeed and altitude.
On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 11:34 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> What do people think of this idea:
> I was thinking of permanently leaving my backup (Dynon D-6 most likely) instruments
on alternate (cabin) static pressure, and have no "alternate static" valve
on the main instruments (most likely GRT).
> Yes, they would always slightly disagree with the main instruments. But a static
blockage would also be immediately obvious.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295126#295126
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | tailcone thickness |
on the bottom; I seem to recall the thickness to be .040. Anybody know; if
not I can measure tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone thickness |
my trusty micrometer says .03
On Apr 21, 2010, at 5:14 PM, DLM wrote:
> on the bottom; I seem to recall the thickness to be .040. Anybody
> know; if not I can measure tomorrow.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tailcone thickness |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | tailcone thickness |
I will measure tonight I think it is .032 but possibly .025
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 5:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tailcone thickness
on the bottom; I seem to recall the thickness to be .040. Anybody know; if
not I can measure tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for RV-10 Wing Kit |
| From: | "JHearnsberger" <jakehearnsberger(at)gmail.com> |
I am looking for a RV-10 wing kit.
Thanks,
Jake Hearnsberger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295198#295198
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)... |
Dear Listers,
I wanted to check out the operation of all the various systems on the RV-8 now
that the engine is running. For example, comparing the fuel flow and fuel pressure
readings between the FuelChec DX and the GRT EFIS. I also wanted to run
the engine up a little and make sure the CHT and EGT's were coming into a normal
range and the all of the probes were working. Also, I wanted to see the oil
pressure and temps in normal ranges after a bit of running. Finally, I wanted
to check the engine RPM with the new TruTach II hand held optic tachometer.
On April 13 2010 I hopped in the pilot's seat and fired up the IO-390 and went
though some checks. I videoed the procedure and used the intercom to call out
the various readings I was observing. If you select the 1080p version of the
YouTube video, you can actually read most of the values right off the GRT EFIS
displays! Towards the end of the video some music starts to play. This is
coming from the Kenwood via the MP3 files on the 64GB thumb drive plugged into
the panel via the PS3000 Intercom and is exactly what I'm hearing in the headphones.
YouTube Video (Select higher resolutions 480p/760p/1080p for clearer picture):
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA
PS - Video was edited with Adobe Premiere CS4 on a Windows Vista 64 system.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tailcone thickness |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Like Phil said .025"
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295271#295271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Signed Off! |
HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon,
Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the
aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends
from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly!
YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close! How
exciting!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Signed Off! |
Congratulations Matt!
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 3:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N998RV Signed Off!
HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon,
Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the
aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends
from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly!
YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close! How
exciting!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 04/22/2010 04:57 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
>
> Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon,
Awesome, congratulations!
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Here is the Manifold pressures I get at WOT at various altitudes. I have a
ram air intake and wondering if someone with a standard Van's cowl can give
me their # to compare.
900' 29" Take off roll
2500' 28"
4000' 26"
5000' 25"
6000' 24"
7500' 23"
8500' 23"
Manifold was reading 29.53 before startup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
It looks like the RV-10 community was well represented in the awards circle
at Sun N Fun. It's certainly no surprise that Geoff would win Best
Interior. That will be a tougher award to win next year when everyone
starts showing up with one of Aerosport Products
<http://www.aerosportproducts.com/> interior packages.
BEST INTERIOR 2009 GEOFF COMBS
RV-10 N829GW CANAL WINCHESTER, OH
OUTSTANDING AIRCRAFT 2009 RON TERHAAR & FRANK
RV-10 N816RF FITZGERALD
ALBANY, OR
OUTSTANDING AIRCRAFT 2009 NORMAN & DONNA
RV-10 N879SP ST.PETER
RIVERVIEW, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
Congrats Matt
Cheers
Les Kearney
Sent from my iPhone
On 2010-04-22, at 2:57 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
>
> Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this
> Special Airworthiness Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the
> obligatory entry was made in the aircraft's logbook. A special
> Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends from Livermore
> to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
>
> Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike
> Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after
> that, its time to test fly!
>
> YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this
> close! How exciting!
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
> <2010.04.22 - RV-8 - N998RV Signed Off.jpg>
> <2010.04.22 - RV-8 - N998RV Phase One Test Area.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
That's really close to what I have with the standard cowl.
Tim
On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:22 PM, "gary" wrote:
>
> Here is the Manifold pressures I get at WOT at various altitudes. I
> have a
> ram air intake and wondering if someone with a standard Van's cowl
> can give
> me their # to compare.
>
> 900' 29" Take off roll
> 2500' 28"
> 4000' 26"
> 5000' 25"
> 6000' 24"
> 7500' 23"
> 8500' 23"
>
> Manifold was reading 29.53 before startup.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Those numbers are close to what I get from my Saratoga. With this
information I can not see the benefit of the additional cost of the new sump
and required additional hardware.
John Cumins
40864 Finishing emp Wings next
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ram Air
That's really close to what I have with the standard cowl.
Tim
On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:22 PM, "gary" wrote:
>
> Here is the Manifold pressures I get at WOT at various altitudes. I
> have a
> ram air intake and wondering if someone with a standard Van's cowl
> can give
> me their # to compare.
>
> 900' 29" Take off roll
> 2500' 28"
> 4000' 26"
> 5000' 25"
> 6000' 24"
> 7500' 23"
> 8500' 23"
>
> Manifold was reading 29.53 before startup.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Congratulations! I'd bet that a ton of stuff you worked hard on and
worried about wasn't even looked at, while other items that seemed
minor did get a close look see. Be sure to send a notam to the RV
lists when that first flight is to occur.
On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 1:57 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours
>
> Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon,
and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the
aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends
from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cover or paint screws |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Prepping doors after getting seals and pins fit, now wondering whether to cover
screws, should I assume never needing to remove door handles and pin blocks,
or is there reason to believe I will need to at some point remove the screws?
I realize though that the screws do not take and hold paint well and think a
smooth door would look better. I don't recall looking that close at other 10s
to see what others are doing. Any opinions?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295336#295336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
A sump has little to do with manifold pressure, and everything to do
with intake air temperature and even distribution to cylinders. MP is
just one small piece of the overall equation.
On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 4:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Those numbers are close to what I get from my Saratoga. With this
> information I can not see the benefit of the additional cost of the new sump
> and required additional hardware.
>
> John Cumins
> 40864 Finishing emp Wings next
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 4:37 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ram Air
>
>
> That's really close to what I have with the standard cowl.
> Tim
>
>
> On Apr 22, 2010, at 4:22 PM, "gary" wrote:
>
>>
>> Here is the Manifold pressures I get at WOT at various altitudes. I
>> have a
>> ram air intake and wondering if someone with a standard Van's cowl
>> can give
>> me their # to compare.
>>
>> 900' 29" Take off roll
>> 2500' 28"
>> 4000' 26"
>> 5000' 25"
>> 6000' 24"
>> 7500' 23"
>> 8500' 23"
>>
>> Manifold was reading 29.53 before startup.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake Line Entrance Holes |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Is there any reason why you couldn't/shouldn't enlarge the brake like
entrance holes in the forward part of the tunnel cover?
It seems to make sense to open that area up a bit and eliminate the
opportunity for chafing.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cover or paint screws |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Most are epoxying and painting over the screws. It is not a big deal, but it provides
a more finished look. It is a bit iffy that the paint/epoxy hold when/if
the doors are removed and the bolts are re torqued.
This is a good opportunity to pound my drum to those novices in the build process
to take a lot (I mean hundreds) of pictures from every angle of the RV10's
that you see when you go to OSH or sun-n-fun. Especially focus on pictures under
the cowl on these planes. Looking at these pictures will save you much angst
in the build process when you can visually see what others have done.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295348#295348
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Well done and good luck on the phase one. Don't forget the RV grin and a post to
the Vans First Flights web site.
Hey............. who is going to maintain this site while you are out flying???
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295349#295349
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake Line Entrance Holes |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I did it also. Not a bad idea also to wrap the entry area with silicone tape.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295351#295351
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Congrats, Matt.
How far ahead did you schedule with the FSDO?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295362#295362
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
At 09:10 PM 4/22/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>Congrats, Matt.
>How far ahead did you schedule with the FSDO?
>
>--------
>Bob Turner
>RV-10 QB
I put the paperwork in the mail on Thursday and it was signed off the next Thursday.
Really. 7 days.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cover or paint screws |
If you're going to cover them up..... make sure those nice round heads of t
he countersunk screws are no longer nice and round when installed.... grind
the sides into a square.... less likely to spin when/if removal and reinsa
lling is necessary.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 4/22/10, AirMike wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: cover or paint screws
Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010, 7:23 PM
Most are epoxying and painting over the screws. It is not a big deal, but i
t provides a more finished look. It is a bit iffy that the paint/epoxy hold
when/if the doors are removed and the bolts are re torqued.
This is a good opportunity to pound my drum to those novices in the build p
rocess to take a lot (I mean hundreds) of pictures from every angle of the
RV10's that you see when you go to OSH or sun-n-fun. Especially focus on pi
ctures under the cowl on these planes. Looking at these pictures will save
you much angst in the build process when you can visually see what others h
ave done.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295348#295348
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cover or paint screws |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I'd probably cover the pin blocks, but not the screws holding the latch in place.
IMHO there's too much chance of removal on the latch mechanism screws. Also,
as was already suggested, you can remove the nuts in a pinch on the pin blocks
if you have secured the screws well enough, and possibly squared off the
head a little, but you have to remove the door handle with the screws.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 22, 2010, at 9:05 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Prepping doors after getting seals and pins fit, now wondering whether to cover
screws, should I assume never needing to remove door handles and pin blocks,
or is there reason to believe I will need to at some point remove the screws?
I realize though that the screws do not take and hold paint well and think
a smooth door would look better. I don't recall looking that close at other 10s
to see what others are doing. Any opinions?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295336#295336
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
In Michigan, you have to file 6 months in advance.... Really..... 6
months
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2010, at 2:30 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> At 09:10 PM 4/22/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Congrats, Matt.
>> How far ahead did you schedule with the FSDO?
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>
>
> I put the paperwork in the mail on Thursday and it was signed off
> the next Thursday. Really. 7 days.
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Wow! When I was at the OAK FSDO last September they told me to give them 6 months
notice to schedule the inspection. I guess they're not as busy as they thought.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295428#295428
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Signed Off! |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 04/23/2010 01:31 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Wow! When I was at the OAK FSDO last September they told me to give them 6 months
notice to schedule the inspection. I guess they're not as busy as they thought.
Matt probably runs their mail server... *wink*
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: RV-10 tail kit |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
It's time to start building a family hauler :)
I'm looking for an RV-10 tail kit. The closer to Charlotte, NC the better.
Looking for one with as little work done as possible, but will consider all options.
Let me know what you have.... and we can go from there.
email: vitez (at) carolina (dot) rr (dot) com
PS. Another option, just to throw it out there, is that I'd be interested in trading
my RV-7A (flying, painted, glass panel, ~270TT) for an RV-10 kit that's
coming up closer to completion.. If someone's looking to downsize.. well, I'm
looking to upsize to fit my recently expanded family..
Thanks!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295459#295459
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WTB: RV-10 tail kit |
I have a 95 % complete one. It is very nice.
Asking 3700.00. I can send photos
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Apr 23, 2010, at 5:11 PM, "N777TY" wrote:
>
> It's time to start building a family hauler :)
>
> I'm looking for an RV-10 tail kit. The closer to Charlotte, NC the
> better.
>
> Looking for one with as little work done as possible, but will
> consider all options.
>
>
> Let me know what you have.... and we can go from there.
>
> email: vitez (at) carolina (dot) rr (dot) com
>
>
> PS. Another option, just to throw it out there, is that I'd be
> interested in trading my RV-7A (flying, painted, glass panel,
> ~270TT) for an RV-10 kit that's coming up closer to completion..
> If someone's looking to downsize.. well, I'm looking to upsize to
> fit my recently expanded family..
>
>
> Thanks!
> Radomir
>
> --------
> RV-7A
> N777TY
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295459#295459
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: RV-10 tail kit |
| From: | "Chris Klugewicz" <ck(at)chesbay.com> |
I have one that is about 60-70% complete (the portions done were completed during
the Alexander Technical Center workshop a year ago, so they have been double-checked
by an expert). I'm in Johnson City, Tennessee, about 3 hours from Charlotte.
As a plus, the pieces are still crated from their trip back from Georgia
last summer.
Plans have changed, and I'm not going to be able to continue building anytime soon,
so I'm going to have to part with the dream for now.
-- Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 5:11pm
Subject: RV10-List: WTB: RV-10 tail kit
It's time to start building a family hauler :)
I'm looking for an RV-10 tail kit. The closer to Charlotte, NC the better.
Looking for one with as little work done as possible, but will consider all options.
Let me know what you have.... and we can go from there.
email: vitez (at) carolina (dot) rr (dot) com
PS. Another option, just to throw it out there, is that I'd be interested in trading
my RV-7A (flying, painted, glass panel, ~270TT) for an RV-10 kit that's
coming up closer to completion.. If someone's looking to downsize.. well, I'm
looking to upsize to fit my recently expanded family..
Thanks!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295459#295459
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Anyone know the story yet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Here you go............
See Below
Phil
Today I got lucky, real lucky.
3 Months ago to the day our RV-10 was signed off from a Kit to an
Airplane, today it experienced its first and hopefully last engine
failure. With 58 hours on the Hobbs she had until this point been the
best 4 place airplane I've ever flown.
I had flown some friends from Pearland TX over to Victoria so they could
pick up their motor home. A very non-eventful flight, a little bumpy VFR
down at 2000 AGL, but an overcast layer prevented any higher. Once there
I decided that I would file IFR for the flight back, get on top and
enjoy some tailwinds.
I left Victoria, climbed to 7000 and enjoyed some much needed sunlight.
Houston Center was their normal cheerful self; all in all, life was
good. I was cleared down to 4000, as luck would have the Overcast layer
had also dropped a few thousand feet so I remained on Top... wow so
nice, still don't have to be in the clunk! Center switched me to
Approach, we agreed upon the GPS approach back to Pearland, and I was
cleared to the IAF. Up until this point everything was absolutely great!
I started my decent out of 4, down to 3000 going direct the IAF... At
3400 ft, that's when the adrenalin started pumping. Now I'll be honest,
I don't' know if I heard the prop fluctuate or not, but something got my
attention. I did a quick engine check and saw that EGT's where high...
very very high. I knew immediately I had a problem, but I had no idea
just how bad the problem was. Training kicked in and Mixture to rich,
boost pump on, tank switch. The EGT's came down, but they didn't stop
coming down. When I saw them drop below 200 or so, and I was getting no
reaction what-so-ever from the throttle... Well, Houston We Have A
Problem.
I declared the Emergency... If you ever want to hear a frequency go
totally quiet, just use those words. Informed Approach of a total power
failure and requested vectors to the nearest airport. Houston Approach
was for the most part absolutely wonderful. Without missing a beat they
informed me that Brazoria was 7'Oclock and 5 miles. I IMMEDIATELY
started the turn and realized that with my now wonderful tailwind turned
headwind, there was no way I was going to make it.
Let me back up just a bit... All this is happing IMC. I entered the
overcast layer at about 3800 FT, bases are reported anywhere between
1000-1500 depending on which ASOS you listen to.
Continuing on.... Not going to make Brazoria, I know I have to do
something. Glancing at my EFIS Map I see that =BE a mile away is a
private strip that Center probably didn't even know existed. I turn
directly at that airport (7R9), informed Approach where I was going,
then I waited, and waited, and waited.... Not much else I could think to
do at the time. Still IMC. Engine Out. I didn't really think I'd be in
this situation, ever.
=BC mile from the airport, at 1300 ft I break out. Guys & Gals, I
haven't been so happy to see a perfectly mowed grass strip in my life! A
quick turn away to burn Airspeed and Altitude, slip to final, and down
we come. The landing went perfect, it was downwind. I didn't care, the
airplane didn't care. The prop finally quit windmilling in the flair,
telling me that it really was dead, as if I didn't know.
I managed to get us (me and the plane) on the ground, unhurt, out of
that situation. Is it all skill, well I'd like to think so... but I know
better! I got lucky, very lucky.
What went wrong? The short version: a fuel line broke.
The long version: During final assembly it came to my attention that
people with the Fuel Flow transducer in the "Tunnel" where experiencing
FF fluctuation when using the electric pump. The fix? Move the FF
Transducer to between the Fuel Injection Servo and the Spider. Well,
that's what I did. When I relocated the Transducer I had to fabricate a
line between the Servo and the Transducer. The line I fabricated was =BC
inch aluminum, that was the flaw. That line broke just outside the
fitting. When I made that line I made sure it wasn't under any stress,
in a natural position, etc. Apparently that was not enough. Now, I will
say this. This was the one component of the airplane I was never quite
happy with. It just "didn't look right". I had some other builders take
a look, half heartedly hoping they would tell me that aluminum was bad
and I should change it, but no one did. So it stayed, and worked fine
for 58 hours.
I blame no one but myself for what happened. A part of me knew that that
line wasn't right, yet I talked myself into believing it was fine. Don't
ever short change your gut... most of the time its got good instincts!
She's now grounded, awaiting Stainless Tubing so I can make the fuel
like the way I originally envisioned. Parts should be here next week,
and the adventure will continue.
Now comes the part where I'd like to thank the people that helped me
stay alive today!
First my Father, Kirk. You see, I started flying Ultralights at 14, and
it was he who preached at me to practice engine outs. They where 2
strokes, and it wasn't "if" they would quit, it was "when". I never lost
an engine flying Ultralights, but I sure practiced.
My Flight Instructors. All you guys (and there has been a few..) who
would randomly pull power, then say "Now what?"
Rob Hickman and the entire crew at Advanced Flight Systems. Without
those awesome EFIS's (and I really do mean awesome) I probably would
have never known that the airport I landed at was there. It didn't show
up on the 430, Approach didn't know, and I was stuck IMC. And the data
logging.. wow. I poured over every second of that flight to find out
when exactly I converted from ASEL to Glider... Having that data is
invaluable.
John Cram (build partner) and Rick Carr for selfless gathering their own
tools and driving to my rescue. With their help we where able to
fabricate a new fuel line ferry the airplane the 22 miles home.
The entire group of local airport bums that showed up to offer a helping
hand. I only wish I could remember each and everyone's name, but that is
not my strong suit. I owe all of you at least a beer!
Last but not least... Brazoria County Constables and Sheriff's (no less
than 5) who showed up, lights and sirens agoin, to come to my rescue.
Thankfully I didn't need it, but it sure is nice to know that help is on
the way.
In case anyone wants to know how fast this happens. Total time from Me
turning on the Fuel Pump to wheels on the ground: 2 Minutes 46 seconds.
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 569JC
Anyone know the story yet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just removed a GRT processor, an XM receiver. XM antenna and harness from my
RV10. I am going the ADSB route. Anyone interested in the old equipment ,
please
contact me directly by email. $600.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Awesome story! Great job getting down in one piece. Thanks for
sharing.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2010, at 17:10, "Perry, Phil" wrote:
> Here you go
>
> See Below
>
>
> Phil
>
>
> Today I got lucky, real lucky.
>
> 3 Months ago to the day our RV-10 was signed off from a Kit to an
> Airplane, today it experienced its first and hopefully last engine
> failure. With 58 hours on the Hobbs she had until this point been
> the best 4 place airplane I=99ve ever flown.
>
> I had flown some friends from Pearland TX over to Victoria so they
> could pick up their motor home. A very non-eventful flight, a little
> bumpy VFR down at 2000 AGL, but an overcast layer prevented any
> higher. Once there I decided that I would file IFR for the flight
> back, get on top and enjoy some tailwinds.
>
> I left Victoria, climbed to 7000 and enjoyed some much needed
> sunlight. Houston Center was their normal cheerful self; all in all,
> life was good. I was cleared down to 4000, as luck would have the
> Overcast layer had also dropped a few thousand feet so I remained on
> Top wow so nice, still don=99t have to be in the clunk!
Center
> switched me to Approach, we agreed upon the GPS approach back to Pea
> rland, and I was cleared to the IAF. Up until this point everything
> was absolutely great!
>
> I started my decent out of 4, down to 3000 going direct the IAF
At
> 3400 ft, that=99s when the adrenalin started pumping. Now I=99
ll be
> honest, I don=99t=99 know if I heard the prop fluctuate or
not, but
> something got my attention. I did a quick engine check and saw that
> EGT=99s where high very very high. I knew immediately I
had a
> problem, but I had no idea just how bad the problem was. Training ki
> cked in and Mixture to rich, boost pump on, tank switch. The EGT=99
s c
> ame down, but they didn=99t stop coming down. When I saw them
drop bel
> ow 200 or so, and I was getting no reaction what-so-ever from the th
> rottle Well, Houston We Have A Problem.
>
> I declared the Emergency If you ever want to hear a frequency
go to
> tally quiet, just use those words. Informed Approach of a total powe
> r failure and requested vectors to the nearest airport. Houston Appr
> oach was for the most part absolutely wonderful. Without missing a b
> eat they informed me that Brazoria was 7=99Oclock and 5 miles. I
IMMED
> IATELY started the turn and realized that with my now wonderful tail
> wind turned headwind, there was no way I was going to make it.
>
> Let me back up just a bit All this is happing IMC. I entered
the ov
> ercast layer at about 3800 FT, bases are reported anywhere between 1
> 000-1500 depending on which ASOS you listen to.
>
> Continuing on. Not going to make Brazoria, I know I have to
do some
> thing. Glancing at my EFIS Map I see that =C2=BE a mile away is a
private
> strip that Center probably didn=99t even know existed. I turn
directl
> y at that airport (7R9), informed Approach where I was going, then I
> waited, and waited, and waited. Not much else I could think
to do
> at the time. Still IMC. Engine Out. I didn=99t really think
I=99d be
> in this situation, ever.
>
> =C2=BC mile from the airport, at 1300 ft I break out. Guys & Gals, I
have
> n=99t been so happy to see a perfectly mowed grass strip in my
life! A
> quick turn away to burn Airspeed and Altitude, slip to final, and d
> own we come. The landing went perfect, it was downwind. I didn=99t
car
> e, the airplane didn=99t care. The prop finally quit windmilling
in th
> e flair, telling me that it really was dead, as if I didn=99t
know.
>
> I managed to get us (me and the plane) on the ground, unhurt, out of
> that situation. Is it all skill, well I=99d like to think so
but I
> know better! I got lucky, very lucky.
>
>
> What went wrong? The short version: a fuel line broke.
>
> The long version: During final assembly it came to my attention that
> people with the Fuel Flow transducer in the =9CTunnel=9D
where
> experiencing FF fluctuation when using the electric pump. The fix? M
> ove the FF Transducer to between the Fuel Injection Servo and the Sp
> ider. Well, that=99s what I did. When I relocated the Transducer
I had
> to fabricate a line between the Servo and the Transducer. The line
> I fabricated was =C2=BC inch aluminum, that was the flaw. That line
broke
> just outside the fitting. When I made that line I made sure it wasn
> =99t under any stress, in a natural position, etc. Apparently
that was
> not enough. Now, I will say this. This was the one component of the
> airplane I was never quite happy with. It just =9Cdidn=99t
look
> right=9D. I had some other builders take a look, half heartedly
hoping
> they would tell me that aluminum was bad and I should change it, bu
> t no one did. So it stayed, and worked fine for 58 hours.
>
>
>
> I blame no one but myself for what happened. A part of me knew that
> that line wasn=99t right, yet I talked myself into believing it
was fi
> ne. Don=99t ever short change your gut most of the time
its got
> good instincts!
>
> She=99s now grounded, awaiting Stainless Tubing so I can make
the fuel
> like the way I originally envisioned. Parts should be here next wee
> k, and the adventure will continue.
>
> Now comes the part where I=99d like to thank the people that
helped me
> stay alive today!
>
> First my Father, Kirk. You see, I started flying Ultralights at 14,
> and it was he who preached at me to practice engine outs. They where
> 2 strokes, and it wasn=99t =9Cif=9D they would quit,
it was
> =9Cwhen=9D. I never lost an engine flying Ultralights, but
I sure
> practiced.
>
> My Flight Instructors. All you guys (and there has been a few..) who
> would randomly pull power, then say =9CNow what?=9D
>
> Rob Hickman and the entire crew at Advanced Flight Systems. Without
> those awesome EFIS=99s (and I really do mean awesome) I probably
would
> have never known that the airport I landed at was there. It didn=99
t
> show up on the 430, Approach didn=99t know, and I was stuck IMC.
And t
> he data logging.. wow. I poured over every second of that flight to
> find out when exactly I converted from ASEL to Glider Having
that d
> ata is invaluable.
>
> John Cram (build partner) and Rick Carr for selfless gathering their
> own tools and driving to my rescue. With their help we where able to
> fabricate a new fuel line ferry the airplane the 22 miles home.
>
> The entire group of local airport bums that showed up to offer a
> helping hand. I only wish I could remember each and everyone=99s
name,
> but that is not my strong suit. I owe all of you at least a beer!
>
> Last but not least Brazoria County Constables and Sheriff
=99s (no
> less than 5) who showed up, lights and sirens agoin, to come to my r
> escue. Thankfully I didn=99t need it, but it sure is nice to
know that
> help is on the way.
>
> In case anyone wants to know how fast this happens. Total time from
> Me turning on the Fuel Pump to wheels on the ground: 2 Minutes 46
> seconds.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 5:57 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 569JC
>
>
> Anyone know the story yet?
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Today I got lucky, real lucky.
Awesome job Phil!
I've had 3 off-field landings ..... two engine related and one was
precautionary for fuel ..... which leaked from a hole in a hard line.
On all occasions, I was snatched from harm by the thousands of angels on
my shoulders. No skill involved!
And declaring an emergency (another flight after the fuel leak .... I
didn't find it after the 'warning') was the easiest thing I ever did!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
That was not me!! Mine won't fly any further than I can throw it. :)
That was a copy and paste from the VAF posting. I should have made that
more clear.
Sorry about that,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters [mailto:pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 569JC
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Today I got lucky, real lucky.
Awesome job Phil!
I've had 3 off-field landings ..... two engine related and one was
precautionary for fuel ..... which leaked from a hole in a hard line.
On all occasions, I was snatched from harm by the thousands of angels on
my shoulders. No skill involved!
And declaring an emergency (another flight after the fuel leak .... I
didn't find it after the 'warning') was the easiest thing I ever did!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I take back all that nice stuff I said;)
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2010, at 17:46, "Perry, Phil" wrote:
>
> That was not me!! Mine won't fly any further than I can throw it. :)
>
> That was a copy and paste from the VAF posting. I should have made
> that
> more clear.
>
> Sorry about that,
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Linn Walters [mailto:pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:40 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 569JC
>
>
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
>> Today I got lucky, real lucky.
>
> Awesome job Phil!
>
> I've had 3 off-field landings ..... two engine related and one was
> precautionary for fuel ..... which leaked from a hole in a hard line.
>
> On all occasions, I was snatched from harm by the thousands of
> angels on
>
> my shoulders. No skill involved!
>
> And declaring an emergency (another flight after the fuel leak .... I
> didn't find it after the 'warning') was the easiest thing I ever
> did!!!
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Thanks Sean...
At least my dogs still like me. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Seano [mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com]
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 569JC
I take back all that nice stuff I said;)
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2010, at 17:46, "Perry, Phil" wrote:
>
> That was not me!! Mine won't fly any further than I can throw it. :)
>
> That was a copy and paste from the VAF posting. I should have made
> that
> more clear.
>
> Sorry about that,
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Linn Walters [mailto:pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 6:40 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 569JC
>
>
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
>> Today I got lucky, real lucky.
>
> Awesome job Phil!
>
> I've had 3 off-field landings ..... two engine related and one was
> precautionary for fuel ..... which leaked from a hole in a hard line.
>
> On all occasions, I was snatched from harm by the thousands of
> angels on
>
> my shoulders. No skill involved!
>
> And declaring an emergency (another flight after the fuel leak .... I
> didn't find it after the 'warning') was the easiest thing I ever
> did!!!
> Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Kind of cool to see the flightaware trip.
http://flightaware.com/live/flight/N569JC
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295519#295519
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aerosport overhead console |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Has anyone tried fitting the carbon fiber overhead to the green cabin vs the pink
that it was molded for? I don't know if there is any difference between the
pink and green?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295520#295520
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | aerosport overhead console |
I don't have any empirical data, but based upon conversation with Geoff
Combs who has a green cabin cover and has seen my pink cabin cover there
shouldn't be any difference in fit. The basic differences are in quality of
finish. You may have more work filling and sanding with the green version.
I would give Geoff a call directly. (614) 834-8659
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosport overhead console
Has anyone tried fitting the carbon fiber overhead to the green cabin vs the
pink that it was molded for? I don't know if there is any difference
between the pink and green?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295520#295520
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John MacCallum" <vk2gcn(at)cirruscomms.com.au> |
That=92s just an amazing story! I=92m doing SE CMD right now with about
35 hours
in and that scenario I have thought about over and over.
What if the big Fan stops when you=92re in IMC? All I can say is well
Done and
good on the technology that led you to that strip!
cheers
John MacCallum
Builder 41016
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, 24 April 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 569JC
Here you go=85=85=85=85
See Below
Phil
Today I got lucky, real lucky.
3 Months ago to the day our RV-10 was signed off from a Kit to an
Airplane,
today it experienced its first and hopefully last engine failure. With
58
hours on the Hobbs she had until this point been the best 4 place
airplane
I=92ve ever flown.
I had flown some friends from Pearland TX over to Victoria so they could
pick up their motor home. A very non-eventful flight, a little bumpy VFR
down at 2000 AGL, but an overcast layer prevented any higher. Once there
I
decided that I would file IFR for the flight back, get on top and enjoy
some
tailwinds.
I left Victoria, climbed to 7000 and enjoyed some much needed sunlight.
Houston Center was their normal cheerful self; all in all, life was
good. I
was cleared down to 4000, as luck would have the Overcast layer had also
dropped a few thousand feet so I remained on Top=85 wow so nice, still
don=92t
have to be in the clunk! Center switched me to Approach, we agreed upon
the
GPS approach back to Pearland, and I was cleared to the IAF. Up until
this
point everything was absolutely great!
I started my decent out of 4, down to 3000 going direct the IAF=85 At
3400 ft,
that=92s when the adrenalin started pumping. Now I=92ll be honest, I
don=92t=92 know
if I heard the prop fluctuate or not, but something got my attention. I
did
a quick engine check and saw that EGT=92s where high=85 very very high.
I knew
immediately I had a problem, but I had no idea just how bad the problem
was.
Training kicked in and Mixture to rich, boost pump on, tank switch. The
EGT=92s came down, but they didn=92t stop coming down. When I saw them
drop
below 200 or so, and I was getting no reaction what-so-ever from the
throttle=85 Well, Houston We Have A Problem.
I declared the Emergency=85 If you ever want to hear a frequency go
totally
quiet, just use those words. Informed Approach of a total power failure
and
requested vectors to the nearest airport. Houston Approach was for the
most
part absolutely wonderful. Without missing a beat they informed me that
Brazoria was 7=92Oclock and 5 miles. I IMMEDIATELY started the turn and
realized that with my now wonderful tailwind turned headwind, there was
no
way I was going to make it.
Let me back up just a bit=85 All this is happing IMC. I entered the
overcast
layer at about 3800 FT, bases are reported anywhere between 1000-1500
depending on which ASOS you listen to.
Continuing on=85. Not going to make Brazoria, I know I have to do
something.
Glancing at my EFIS Map I see that =BE a mile away is a private strip
that
Center probably didn=92t even know existed. I turn directly at that
airport
(7R9), informed Approach where I was going, then I waited, and waited,
and
waited=85. Not much else I could think to do at the time. Still IMC.
Engine
Out. I didn=92t really think I=92d be in this situation, ever.
=BC mile from the airport, at 1300 ft I break out. Guys & Gals, I
haven=92t been
so happy to see a perfectly mowed grass strip in my life! A quick turn
away
to burn Airspeed and Altitude, slip to final, and down we come. The
landing
went perfect, it was downwind. I didn=92t care, the airplane didn=92t
care. The
prop finally quit windmilling in the flair, telling me that it really
was
dead, as if I didn=92t know.
I managed to get us (me and the plane) on the ground, unhurt, out of
that
situation. Is it all skill, well I=92d like to think so=85 but I know
better! I
got lucky, very lucky.
What went wrong? The short version: a fuel line broke.
The long version: During final assembly it came to my attention that
people
with the Fuel Flow transducer in the =93Tunnel=94 where experiencing FF
fluctuation when using the electric pump. The fix? Move the FF
Transducer to
between the Fuel Injection Servo and the Spider. Well, that=92s what I
did.
When I relocated the Transducer I had to fabricate a line between the
Servo
and the Transducer. The line I fabricated was =BC inch aluminum, that
was the
flaw. That line broke just outside the fitting. When I made that line I
made
sure it wasn=92t under any stress, in a natural position, etc.
Apparently that
was not enough. Now, I will say this. This was the one component of the
airplane I was never quite happy with. It just =93didn=92t look
right=94. I had
some other builders take a look, half heartedly hoping they would tell
me
that aluminum was bad and I should change it, but no one did. So it
stayed,
and worked fine for 58 hours.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5834625/RV10/photo%203.jpg
I blame no one but myself for what happened. A part of me knew that that
line wasn=92t right, yet I talked myself into believing it was fine.
Don=92t
ever short change your gut=85 most of the time its got good instincts!
She=92s now grounded, awaiting Stainless Tubing so I can make the fuel
like
the way I originally envisioned. Parts should be here next week, and the
adventure will continue.
Now comes the part where I=92d like to thank the people that helped me
stay
alive today!
First my Father, Kirk. You see, I started flying Ultralights at 14, and
it
was he who preached at me to practice engine outs. They where 2 strokes,
and
it wasn=92t =93if=94 they would quit, it was =93when=94. I never lost an
engine flying
Ultralights, but I sure practiced.
My Flight Instructors. All you guys (and there has been a few..) who
would
randomly pull power, then say =93Now what?=94
Rob Hickman and the entire crew at Advanced Flight Systems. Without
those
awesome EFIS=92s (and I really do mean awesome) I probably would have
never
known that the airport I landed at was there. It didn=92t show up on the
430,
Approach didn=92t know, and I was stuck IMC. And the data logging.. wow.
I
poured over every second of that flight to find out when exactly I
converted
from ASEL to Glider=85 Having that data is invaluable.
John Cram (build partner) and Rick Carr for selfless gathering their own
tools and driving to my rescue. With their help we where able to
fabricate a
new fuel line ferry the airplane the 22 miles home.
The entire group of local airport bums that showed up to offer a helping
hand. I only wish I could remember each and everyone=92s name, but that
is not
my strong suit. I owe all of you at least a beer!
Last but not least=85 Brazoria County Constables and Sheriff=92s (no
less than
5) who showed up, lights and sirens agoin, to come to my rescue.
Thankfully
I didn=92t need it, but it sure is nice to know that help is on the way.
In case anyone wants to know how fast this happens. Total time from Me
turning on the Fuel Pump to wheels on the ground: 2 Minutes 46 seconds.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5834625/RV10/EntireFlight.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5834625/RV10/landing.jpg
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 569JC
Anyone know the story yet?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Nick, really, really nice job piloting (period).
Sitting in the virtual cockpit with you, I'm imagining that it must be
nice not having to transition off a vacuum powered anything when you
lost power. And the situational awareness of the glass has to be sweet.
Would be curious to hear any thoughts of why there wasn't a fire.
Bill "fully awake this morning" Watson
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Great story.
Just last week I was on the phone with the folks who make the red cube transducer
and they too told me that putting it in the tunnel like Van's shows on the
prints is a bad idea. The other thing they told me and that they were emphatic
about was that you must use FLEX line both in and out of the cube. In fact
they suggested no hard line anywhere between any mounted components in the fuel
system. They said that different masses get different vibration patterns and
will crack the hard lines.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295572#295572
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: was 569JC- now vacuum pump behavior with windmilling engine |
I realize that the 569JC discussion is over on VAF but I'd like to ask a
question I just realized I don't have a clue about...
If you lose your engine and the prop is windmilling, does your vacuum
pump still generate enough suck to power the gyros? Or does the
horizon just slowly fall over? (assuming you have vac powered gyros)
Thanks,
Bill
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>
> Nick, really, really nice job piloting (period).
>
> Sitting in the virtual cockpit with you, I'm imagining that it must be
> nice not having to transition off a vacuum powered anything when you
> lost power. And the situational awareness of the glass has to be sweet.
>
> Would be curious to hear any thoughts of why there wasn't a fire.
>
> Bill "fully awake this morning" Watson
> 40605
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
I believe Vans has their Demo plane setup per the plans and they haven't
had issues. I recall asking support about this a while back and they stated
all their planes are setup with the aluminum tube and never had an issue.
The plane with this issue has his cube in the engine area by the servo to
avoid reported fuel pump issue (high GPH readings when on) not the tunnel-
he would have known he had a problem if it was in the tunnel the fuel smell
would have given that away- lucky there was not fire in the engine area.
P
--------------------------------------------------
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 569JC
>
> Great story.
>
> Just last week I was on the phone with the folks who make the red cube
> transducer and they too told me that putting it in the tunnel like Van's
> shows on the prints is a bad idea. The other thing they told me and that
> they were emphatic about was that you must use FLEX line both in and out
> of the cube. In fact they suggested no hard line anywhere between any
> mounted components in the fuel system. They said that different masses
> get different vibration patterns and will crack the hard lines.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295572#295572
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: was 569JC- now vacuum pump behavior with windmilling engine |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Depends....
but most vacuum pump installations generate enough flow to power the gyros even
at idle (look at the vacuum pressure gauge, is it in the green?). so if the engine
windmills at 1000 rpm or more, and usually it will (depends on the prop,
if there's internal damage, etc), then yes, the gyros will work.
If this wasn't true, then a 172 making a long idle power descent thru the clouds
might suddenly find the gyros didn't work!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295576#295576
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sensor location (was N569JC) |
FWIW, I'm in the process of changing the location of my fuel flow
sensor. I had it in the stock Van's tunnel location. And as others
reported that location yeilds a higher than normal reading when the fuel
pump is turned on. However, it also gives me fluctuations in the
instantaneous readings. Typically they are +/- .2-.4 gph. But
occasionally can vary as much as +/- .8 gph. For purposes of fuel
totalizator functions, it doesn't appear to cause much of a problem. As
the totals are within .1-.2 gals a fill up. I suppose because the +'s
and -'s offset each other. But I've been working on tuning my fuel
injection via the restrictors, with the desired goal of getting to +/-
.1 _ .3 gph variation between cylinders, and despite all of my best
efforts with data logging to capture data, it's just not good enough. So
after talking with Don @ Airflow, he stated that the best place for the
sensor is between the servo and the dist spider. I've been playing with
this for the past couple of days and it looks like I can position the
sensor on the corner of the sump under the #1 cyl. Its going to require
2 new integral firesleeved SS/teflon hoses, and the install will be
close quarters, but it appears it should work. The FloScan installation
instructions call for the sensor to be wrapped in firesleeve, and that
makes supporting the sensor and fuel lines a challenge.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 4/24/2010 2:29 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I believe Vans has their Demo plane setup per the plans and they
> haven't had issues. I recall asking support about this a while back
> and they stated all their planes are setup with the aluminum tube and
> never had an issue.
> The plane with this issue has his cube in the engine area by the servo
> to avoid reported fuel pump issue (high GPH readings when on) not the
> tunnel- he would have known he had a problem if it was in the tunnel
> the fuel smell would have given that away- lucky there was not fire in
> the engine area.
> P
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 2:09 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: 569JC
>
>>
>> Great story.
>>
>> Just last week I was on the phone with the folks who make the red
>> cube transducer and they too told me that putting it in the tunnel
>> like Van's shows on the prints is a bad idea. The other thing they
>> told me and that they were emphatic about was that you must use FLEX
>> line both in and out of the cube. In fact they suggested no hard
>> line anywhere between any mounted components in the fuel system.
>> They said that different masses get different vibration patterns and
>> will crack the hard lines.
>>
>> --------
>> Myron Nelson
>> Mesa, AZ
>> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295572#295572
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel sensor location (was N569JC) |
I believe the key is no aluminum hard lines firewall forward; I had Halon
lines in aluminum running from the firewall bulkhead fitting to the carb air
box and from the bulkhead fitting to the sprayer over the engine on my
Glastar. Both lines initially failed due to vibration. After using an
intermediate rubber tube to isolate the airframe from engine vibrations and
properly securing the sprayer , the problem was solved. However this would
not work with fuel lines; stainless or SS Teflon flex lines are imperative.
Aluminum hard lines have been used and approved in certified aircraft
(airframe) for many years. As a side note hydraulic return lines in my
Cardinal RG twice cracked the flare at the electric pump and allowed 5606 to
leak. Fortunately the leaks occurred and were observed on the ground.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sensor location (was N569JC)
FWIW, I'm in the process of changing the location of my fuel flow sensor. I
had it in the stock Van's tunnel location. And as others reported that
location yeilds a higher than normal reading when the fuel pump is turned
on. However, it also gives me fluctuations in the instantaneous readings.
Typically they are +/- .2-.4 gph. But occasionally can vary as much as +/-
.8 gph. For purposes of fuel totalizator functions, it doesn't appear to
cause much of a problem. As the totals are within .1-.2 gals a fill up. I
suppose because the +'s and -'s offset each other. But I've been working on
tuning my fuel injection via the restrictors, with the desired goal of
getting to +/- .1 _ .3 gph variation between cylinders, and despite all of
my best efforts with data logging to capture data, it's just not good
enough. So after talking with Don @ Airflow, he stated that the best place
for the sensor is between the servo and the dist spider. I've been playing
with this for the past couple of days and it looks like I can position the
sensor on the corner of the sump under the #1 cyl. Its going to require 2
new integral firesleeved SS/teflon hoses, and the install will be close
quarters, but it appears it should work. The FloScan installation
instructions call for the sensor to be wrapped in firesleeve, and that makes
supporting the sensor and fuel lines a challenge.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 4/24/2010 2:29 PM, Pascal wrote:
I believe Vans has their Demo plane setup per the plans and they haven't
had issues. I recall asking support about this a while back and they stated
all their planes are setup with the aluminum tube and never had an issue.
The plane with this issue has his cube in the engine area by the servo to
avoid reported fuel pump issue (high GPH readings when on) not the tunnel-
he would have known he had a problem if it was in the tunnel the fuel smell
would have given that away- lucky there was not fire in the engine area.
P
--------------------------------------------------
From: "woxofswa" <mailto:woxof(at)aol.com> <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 569JC
Great story.
Just last week I was on the phone with the folks who make the red cube
transducer and they too told me that putting it in the tunnel like Van's
shows on the prints is a bad idea. The other thing they told me and that
they were emphatic about was that you must use FLEX line both in and out of
the cube. In fact they suggested no hard line anywhere between any mounted
components in the fuel system. They said that different masses get
different vibration patterns and will crack the hard lines.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295572#295572
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
All the more reason for a fire bottle; note the fire handle in the picture.
System is plumbed to two sprayers; one over the engine and one aft of the
rear cylinder baffles
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 569JC
I believe Vans has their Demo plane setup per the plans and they haven't
had issues. I recall asking support about this a while back and they stated
all their planes are setup with the aluminum tube and never had an issue.
The plane with this issue has his cube in the engine area by the servo to
avoid reported fuel pump issue (high GPH readings when on) not the tunnel-
he would have known he had a problem if it was in the tunnel the fuel smell
would have given that away- lucky there was not fire in the engine area.
P
--------------------------------------------------
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 569JC
>
> Great story.
>
> Just last week I was on the phone with the folks who make the red cube
> transducer and they too told me that putting it in the tunnel like
> Van's shows on the prints is a bad idea. The other thing they told me
> and that they were emphatic about was that you must use FLEX line both
> in and out of the cube. In fact they suggested no hard line anywhere
> between any mounted components in the fuel system. They said that
> different masses get different vibration patterns and will crack the hard
lines.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295572#295572
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: was 569JC- now vacuum pump behavior with windmilling |
engine
That all makes sense. Just couldn't think it through. Thanks!
Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Depends....
> but most vacuum pump installations generate enough flow to power the gyros even
at idle (look at the vacuum pressure gauge, is it in the green?). so if the
engine windmills at 1000 rpm or more, and usually it will (depends on the prop,
if there's internal damage, etc), then yes, the gyros will work.
>
> If this wasn't true, then a 172 making a long idle power descent thru the clouds
might suddenly find the gyros didn't work!
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295576#295576
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N402RH Fuel sensor location |
This is how I mounted it in my RV-10
_http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IpZAMWzeY7fiT9lprJGZqQ?feat=directlink
_
(http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IpZAMWzeY7fiT9lprJGZqQ?feat=directlink)
Rob Hickman
N402RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerosport overhead console |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
When I spoke with Geoff last he mentioned the mold was built around the pink cabin
and wasn't sure the differences between pink and green covers. You are probably
right, the differences are probably minor and can be filled or corrected.
Now just deciding whether I want the overhead or go with something else just
for pilot/copilot lighting. I'm trying to justify the idea of lighting, air
front/back with overhead.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295604#295604
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | N402RH Fuel sensor location |
That's pretty similar to how I'm mounting mine. As others have said, alumi
num hard lines FWF are bad juju, I went with Bonico SS/Teflon hoses w/fires
leeve.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 9:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH Fuel sensor location
This is how I mounted it in my RV-10
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IpZAMWzeY7fiT9lprJGZqQ?feat=directli
nk
Rob Hickman
N402RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: was 569JC- now vacuum pump behavior with windmilling engine |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
He was running the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS. It is solid state internal
gyros with 1 hour of internal battery backup. no vacuum. Plus it records
ALL data for the flight. So he was able to go back after he landed and look
at what happened and when. The AFS system is really sweet.
The map system shows all private use airports as well, the Garmin maps do
not. And as you increase the map display range it declutters as needed.
Jim C (N312 - Flying)
On Sat, Apr 24, 2010 at 5:13 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> I realize that the 569JC discussion is over on VAF but I'd like to ask a
> question I just realized I don't have a clue about...
>
> If you lose your engine and the prop is windmilling, does your vacuum pump
> still generate enough suck to power the gyros? Or does the horizon just
> slowly fall over? (assuming you have vac powered gyros)
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>
>> Nick, really, really nice job piloting (period).
>>
>> Sitting in the virtual cockpit with you, I'm imagining that it must be
>> nice not having to transition off a vacuum powered anything when you lost
>> power. And the situational awareness of the glass has to be sweet.
>>
>> Would be curious to hear any thoughts of why there wasn't a fire.
>>
>> Bill "fully awake this morning" Watson
>> 40605
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Mueller <ed(at)muellerartcover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio |
Hi Lew,
I sold the fuse kit, but still have the QB wings. I was out of town
for 6 weeks, haven't done anything to sell the wings. Are still
interested?
Asking $10,000.00.
Thank You,
Ed Mueller
ed(at)muellerartcover.com
440-458-6006
440-864-6097 Cell
On Feb 13, 2010, at 3:41 PM, Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Ed,
>
> Lew Gallagher here.
>
> First, I'm sorry to see so many RV-10 projects going on the block
> lately. For three years now, I've been helping my friend build his
> RV-10 and we're almost at engine start and inspection stage. I've
> enjoyed this project so much that I've been collecting parts for a
> future build of my own. I now have the tail/empenage kit, cowling/
> spinner, rudder pedals, Whelan lights, etc. So I'm always looking
> for additional parts at bargain prices. Am I correct in assuming
> when you say you have the wings and fuselage, that the tail/
> empenage is not included?
>
> I just missed a quick build wing kit here in SC for around $10K a
> while back. I doubt if you would sell your kits for what I could
> pay -- and you are 600 miles away. However, I would like you to
> keep me in mind if you don't get serious offers. Have truck and
> cash ... will travel! Also, if you get any inquiries from someone
> who has already purchased the slow build kits, but wanted yours
> instead -- then I would be interested in picking up their slow
> build wing and fuse kits.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ehm6006" <ed(at)muellerartcover.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 2:21 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio
>
>
>>
>> Finances force sale of RV10 Quickbuild wings and fuselage.
>>
>> $31,000.00. Delivery immediate.
>>
>> Like NEW from factory. Inventory done, NO work has been done on
>> these. These were built in the original factory, not the new one
>> that has seen some problems. Were originally shipped by Partain
>> Trucking.
>>
>> Located in Grafton, Ohio (~25 miles southwest of Cleveland).
>>
>> Save at least $5,000.00.
>>
>> Vans Price: $36,135.00 + Crating($1,000.00) + Freight. Delivery
>> 3-4 months.
>>
>>
>> Ed Mueller
>> Grafton, OH
>> 440-458-6006
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286298#286298
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N402RH Fuel sensor location |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I wasn't trying to stir a pot with my post. I was just repeating what a component
manufacturer told me just days before this incident happened, which really
drove it home for me.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295649#295649
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0661, IMG_0652, IMG_0659, IMG_0660 |
Attached are some pictures of the disassembled fuel filter after 265 hours.
Although I rinsed the tanks about four times (to remove bits of pro seal)
before fueling initially, invisible particles of something (looks and feels
like lint) must have been left in the system. There was no impedance to fuel
flow but small particles were removed. Based on our findings the need to
clean the fuel filter (about 1.5 hours to remove, clean, install and test)
should be every 500 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need more horsepower!! |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
QWJvdXQgMmhycyBhbmQgMTVtaW4gYWdvLCBvdXIgYWlycGxhbmUgZ290IDcgbGJzIGFuZCAxNW96
IGhlYXZpZXIuICAgIA0KDQpNZWV0IExhbmRvbi4uLi4uLi4gIEhlJ2xsIHJpZGUgaW4gdGhlIGJh
Y2sgc2VhdCBmb3Igbm93LCBtb3ZlIGludG8gdGhlIHJpZ2h0IGluIGEgZmV3IHllYXJzLCB0aGVu
IHNsaWRlIGludG8gdGhlIGxlZnQgc2VhdCBzb21ldGltZSBsYXRlci4gDQoNCkFsbCBpcyB3ZWxs
IHdpdGggTW9tIGFuZCB0aGUgYmFsbGFzdC4gDQoNClBoaWwNCg0KDQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
We use an alternate method of compliance; we inspect at the annual or any
encounter with heavy or greater turbulence. Attached are the pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0661, IMG_0652, IMG_0659, IMG_0660 |
I cleaned mine my first two annuals. The first one was very dirty (90
hours), the second one pretty clean. From what I have seen, 500 sounds like
a good number. But, since I don't fly that much, I don't think I will ever
see that many hours between annuals and plan to clean it every annual.
It is my understanding that the lint is from the filters in the fuel truck.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0661, IMG_0652, IMG_0659, IMG_0660
Attached are some pictures of the disassembled fuel filter after 265 hours.
Although I rinsed the tanks about four times (to remove bits of pro seal)
before fueling initially, invisible particles of something (looks and feels
like lint) must have been left in the system. There was no impedance to fuel
flow but small particles were removed. Based on our findings the need to
clean the fuel filter (about 1.5 hours to remove, clean, install and test)
should be every 500 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerosport overhead console |
Dave
I have the old AA OH console which I promise you was heavier and
MUCH more difficult to fit regardless of the type of canopy one has. I
personally believe the OH console is one of the best additions to an RV-10
build for COMFORT, lighting & location to hide wires, O2 etc...
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: aerosport overhead console
When I spoke with Geoff last he mentioned the mold was built around the
pink cabin and wasn't sure the differences between pink and green covers.
You are probably right, the differences are probably minor and can be
filled or corrected. Now just deciding whether I want the overhead or go
with something else just for pilot/copilot lighting. I'm trying to
justify the idea of lighting, air front/back with overhead.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295604#295604
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerosport overhead console |
Dave the only area that might fit a little different would be the step in
the canopy right at the rear of the back doors. That being said I
Do not think you would have any problems fitting it to the green canopies.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: aerosport overhead console
Dave
I have the old AA OH console which I promise you was heavier and
MUCH more difficult to fit regardless of the type of canopy one has. I
personally believe the OH console is one of the best additions to an RV-10
build for COMFORT, lighting & location to hide wires, O2 etc...
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2010 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: aerosport overhead console
When I spoke with Geoff last he mentioned the mold was built around the pink
cabin and wasn't sure the differences between pink and green covers. You are
probably right, the differences are probably minor and can be filled or
corrected. Now just deciding whether I want the overhead or go with
something else just for pilot/copilot lighting. I'm trying to justify the
idea of lighting, air front/back with overhead.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295604#295604
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need more horsepower!! |
Way to go Phil! Must have held your mouth right to get a boy on your first
try. I had three beautiful daughters.
Can't wait to see Landon kicking tires at the airport with the old man. Gi
ve our best to Sara. Congrats to both.
Bill and Lynell Gipson
Conroe=2C TX
Subject: RV10-List: Need more horsepower!!
Date: Sun=2C 25 Apr 2010 11:31:39 -0700
From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
About 2hrs and 15min ago=2C our airplane got 7 lbs and 15oz heavier.
Meet Landon....... He'll ride in the back seat for now=2C move into the ri
ght in a few years=2C then slide into the left seat sometime later.
All is well with Mom and the ballast.
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
A Vixen file is the ideal tool for making those little spacers Van uses here
and there. Since the end needs to be perpendicular to the axis, you clamp
the Vizen file down on your drill press table, chuck the piece of tubing in
the drill press chuck and lower it down onto the Vixen file. After that end
is finished, measure it for length and reverse the piece in the chuck taking
off the necessary amout to get the proper length.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Empennage & tail cone for sale |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
I have a Rv-10 empennage and tailcone for Sale. It was alodined and primed. Excellent
craftsmanship. I have more photos on request.
Asking 3700.00. Open for reasonable offers.
Geoff Combs
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295707#295707
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tailcone_1_184.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need more horsepower!! |
Ditto!!! What was that correct mouth position?
Rick
On Apr 25, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Bill Gipson wrote:
> Way to go Phil! Must have held your mouth right to get a boy on
> your first try. I had three beautiful daughters.
>
> Can't wait to see Landon kicking tires at the airport with the old
> man. Give our best to Sara. Congrats to both.
>
> Bill and Lynell Gipson
> Conroe, TX
>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Need more horsepower!!
> Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 11:31:39 -0700
> From: Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> About 2hrs and 15min ago, our airplane got 7 lbs and 15oz heavier.
>
> Meet Landon....... He'll ride in the back seat for now, move into
> the right in a few years, then slide into the left seat sometime
> later.
>
> All is well with Mom and the ballast.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more
> from your inbox. See how.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I thought I would share some questions and answers on door pins and guides taken
off emails with permission from Rudi. There are pros and cons for the different
pins and guides offered. Builders that have dealt with the vans doors understand
easier than new builders who haven't seen the mechanics behind Vans'
doors.
Rudi,
I will be shipping your parts on Wednesday. One question. I now have two types
of pins and guides to pick from actually three. I have bullet type SS pins that
are hollow with a solid tip and I have bullet type pins that have a small
magnet on the end. The hollow ones can have the Van's magnet dropped inside
and glued. The bullet type pins go with aluminum or Delrin guides. The threaded
portion on all my pins are a 5/16-24 set screw that you threadlock in after
installing the magnet. If you want the bullet type that has the magnet on
the end, it is already glued on. The other pins I have are on a slant and are
hollow but have a solid tip, again making it possible to drop a magnet inside.
RUDI: What type works better with the standard Vans Sensors and standard Magnets?
Bullet type with magnet on front or slanted with magnet on inside?
Sean: Both work good. The slanted pins require you use the Van's magnets that
come in your kit. In a perfect world I would try to talk everyone into buying
the 180 kit with slanted pins and Delrin guides. Van's had a good idea for the
pushrods, they just didn't quite capture the whole plan. Slanted pins work
really well because they pull the full 7/16 of the material. When you try a
bullet type it will only pull half of the bullet or 7/32. Van's pushrods have
the problem of being hollow tipped which catches their delrin guides or their
original UHMW guides. I have seen builders' doors actually cut into their guides.
One door that fell off was because the pilot thought the door was closed
because the hollow tip was pressed into the plastic guide and later (in flight)
failed and opened the door and there it went. My latch pulls the center of
the door and really helps the pins into the guides. If your seal is super tight,
your door will flex at the fwd and aft where the pins exit the door and
enter the guides. The slanted pins are easier to line up because of the full
7/16 advantage.
They only work well with the Delrin guide blocks I make. Since you have the 180
kit I recommend the slanted pins and Delrin guides, up to you. With the slanted
pins you have to "clock" the position to pull the door down and in like
the vans original pushrod ends. This is done by filing the end of the pushrod
until the pins line up to your preference. I know it is kind of weird to have
so many options but I am getting a feel to see want everyone wants/likes.
RUDI: Why does the slanted pins only work with the Delrin guide block?
Sean: The shape of the slant makes it rub and catch on the aluminum as it pulls
into the guides. I believe it is because the oval on the slant acts as a small
rod and enlarges as it pulls into the guide. Metal on metal. That's why Van's
pushrods won't work on aluminum guides. Aluminum gulls on aluminum.
RUDI: Why do you recommend the slanted pins with the 180 kit?
Sean: Partially answered above, but also because the pins extend so far and engage
through the frame of the aircraft. With 90 degree kits and Van's original
doors it is hard for some builders to get the pin extended past the Delrin.
I like to see the pins through the cabin frame and aluminum structure instead
of just the Delrin guide. That is why a lot of builders prefer the bullet type
pins and aluminum guides on the 90 degree kits or original equipment.
Sean: Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. If you don't
mind I may want to post this Q and A on Matronics or VAF. I like people to
know pros and cons to each pin and guide.
Thanks
Sean Strasburg
www.planearound.com
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295738#295738
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails |
One other comment. The pins should be about 1/2 inch longer and cut to size
by the builder. Depending on where the latch mechanism is located within the
recess, Vans standard pins can be too short and not place the full
circumference within the metal door frame when engaged.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
I thought I would share some questions and answers on door pins and guides
taken off emails with permission from Rudi. There are pros and cons for the
different pins and guides offered. Builders that have dealt with the vans
doors understand easier than new builders who haven't seen the mechanics
behind Vans' doors.
Rudi,
I will be shipping your parts on Wednesday. One question. I now have two
types of pins and guides to pick from actually three. I have bullet type SS
pins that are hollow with a solid tip and I have bullet type pins that have
a small magnet on the end. The hollow ones can have the Van's magnet
dropped inside and glued. The bullet type pins go with aluminum or Delrin
guides. The threaded portion on all my pins are a 5/16-24 set screw that
you threadlock in after installing the magnet. If you want the bullet type
that has the magnet on the end, it is already glued on. The other pins I
have are on a slant and are hollow but have a solid tip, again making it
possible to drop a magnet inside.
RUDI: What type works better with the standard Vans Sensors and standard
Magnets? Bullet type with magnet on front or slanted with magnet on inside?
Sean: Both work good. The slanted pins require you use the Van's magnets
that come in your kit. In a perfect world I would try to talk everyone into
buying the 180 kit with slanted pins and Delrin guides. Van's had a good
idea for the pushrods, they just didn't quite capture the whole plan.
Slanted pins work really well because they pull the full 7/16 of the
material. When you try a bullet type it will only pull half of the bullet
or 7/32. Van's pushrods have the problem of being hollow tipped which
catches their delrin guides or their original UHMW guides. I have seen
builders' doors actually cut into their guides. One door that fell off was
because the pilot thought the door was closed because the hollow tip was
pressed into the plastic guide and later (in flight) failed and opened the
door and there it went. My latch pulls the center of the door and really
helps the pins into the guides. If your seal is super tight, your door will
flex at the fwd and aft where t!
he pins exit the door and enter the guides. The slanted pins are easier to
line up because of the full 7/16 advantage.
They only work well with the Delrin guide blocks I make. Since you have
the 180 kit I recommend the slanted pins and Delrin guides, up to you. With
the slanted pins you have to "clock" the position to pull the door down and
in like the vans original pushrod ends. This is done by filing the end of
the pushrod until the pins line up to your preference. I know it is kind of
weird to have so many options but I am getting a feel to see want everyone
wants/likes.
RUDI: Why does the slanted pins only work with the Delrin guide block?
Sean: The shape of the slant makes it rub and catch on the aluminum as it
pulls into the guides. I believe it is because the oval on the slant acts as
a small rod and enlarges as it pulls into the guide. Metal on metal. That's
why Van's pushrods won't work on aluminum guides. Aluminum gulls on
aluminum.
RUDI: Why do you recommend the slanted pins with the 180 kit?
Sean: Partially answered above, but also because the pins extend so far and
engage through the frame of the aircraft. With 90 degree kits and Van's
original doors it is hard for some builders to get the pin extended past the
Delrin. I like to see the pins through the cabin frame and aluminum
structure instead of just the Delrin guide. That is why a lot of builders
prefer the bullet type pins and aluminum guides on the 90 degree kits or
original equipment.
Sean: Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. If you
don't mind I may want to post this Q and A on Matronics or VAF. I like
people to know pros and cons to each pin and guide.
Thanks
Sean Strasburg
www.planearound.com
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295738#295738
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Nice! Wish I knew/thought of that before now.
thanks.
Albert Gardner wrote:
> *A Vixen file is the ideal tool for making those little spacers Van uses here
and there. Since the end needs to be perpendicular to the axis, you clamp the
Vizen file down on your drill press table, chuck the piece of tubing in the drill
press chuck and lower it down onto the Vixen file. After that end is finished,
measure it for length and reverse the piece in the chuck taking off the
necessary amout to get the proper length. *
> *Albert Gardner*
> *N991RV*
> *Yuma, AZ*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Luther Strickland <lljjss22(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight for kit 40214 |
All...
-
After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left
the ground for the first time yesterday.-It climbed like a champ and we
were at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway.-The flight was
uneventful with engine-temperatures staying where they should and the pl
ane flying true and level.
-
Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at
it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week.- Robin also tied me up
with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionic
s created in the panel that they built for the plane.- My OP Technologies
EFIS is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data comput
er.- Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but th
ere are a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group.
-
I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will
post photos once it is out of the paint shop.
-
It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!!
-
...Jearl Strickland
-
ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to cel
ebrate.- We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the
volume further!=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | g;ideslope capture |
Slowly, oh so slowly, working my way through the GRT/430W/SL30/TRUTRACK set up
menus. I now have everything talking nicely to each other and most everything
seems to be working except for one interesting problem. Both the 430 and SL30
capture the localizer well (10-15 miles out), and the 430 captures the glideslope
at the usual distance, but the SL-30 only picks up the glideslope when I
am very close in (like one mile). Dispite the SL30 capturing the localizer could
this still be an antennae problem (mine are Archers in the wing tips)? I
could reverse the ants. to see what that does but it would be a lot of work because
of the coaxial routing. Any suggestions? Jay Rowe #40301 (flying with
50 hours).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Me too!
> Date: Mon=2C 26 Apr 2010 10:21:34 -0400
> From: MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vixen File
>
rr.com>
>
> Nice! Wish I knew/thought of that before now.
>
> thanks.
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
> > *A Vixen file is the ideal tool for making those little spacers Van use
s here and there. Since the end needs to be perpendicular to the axis=2C yo
u clamp the Vizen file down on your drill press table=2C chuck the piece of
tubing in the drill press chuck and lower it down onto the Vixen file. Aft
er that end is finished=2C measure it for length and reverse the piece in t
he chuck taking off the necessary amout to get the proper length. *
> > *Albert Gardner*
> > *N991RV*
> > *Yuma=2C AZ*
> > * *
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Erickson" <rv10builder(at)ericksonjc.com> |
| Subject: | g;ideslope capture |
Jay,
You are using separate antenna for the 430 and the SL-30, correct? (With a splitter
for the 430 since it requires separate GS and LOC inputs if I remember correctly?)
One fairly easy test would be to swap the coax from the splitter input to the SL-30
and the SL-30 to the splitter (ie using the "other" antenna for the other
receiver.) This will tell you if the issue is in the box or downstream. Assuming
it's downstream, I'd look at bad coax crimps. The antenna is a fairly simple
device and as long as everything is screwed in, I can't really see much going
wrong... The crimps on the other hand could easily be creating problems that
could easily be more apparent on one frequency band than another...
Good Luck,
John
#40208 Wings (Still)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: g;ideslope capture
Slowly, oh so slowly, working my way through the GRT/430W/SL30/TRUTRACK set up
menus. I now have everything talking nicely to each other and most everything
seems to be working except for one interesting problem. Both the 430 and SL30
capture the localizer well (10-15 miles out), and the 430 captures the glideslope
at the usual distance, but the SL-30 only picks up the glideslope when I
am very close in (like one mile). Dispite the SL30 capturing the localizer could
this still be an antennae problem (mine are Archers in the wing tips)? I
could reverse the ants. to see what that does but it would be a lot of work because
of the coaxial routing. Any suggestions? Jay Rowe #40301 (flying with
50 hours).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight for kit 40214 |
Jearl,
That is terrific news. I sure wish I was in town to witness the
big event. I am positive you will have little to work out between now and
the end of your Phase 1. It is fantastic to add another flying -10 to the
fleet and even better to have one at our airport built & piloted by such a
nice and talented person with a wonderful family. I look forward to some
loose formation flying and air to air photo sessions and heck maybe even
some cross country trips.
Clear skies,
Robin, Nova & Hannah
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Mr Luther Strickland
*Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 8:32 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: First Flight for kit 40214
All...
After 6 years of balancing work and plane building, kit 40214 (N4959S) left
the ground for the first time yesterday. It climbed like a champ and we were
at 800 feet by the time we hit the end of the runway. The flight was
uneventful with engine temperatures staying where they should and the plane
flying true and level.
Many thanks to my good friend Robin Marks for the encouragement to keep at
it even when I was trapped at work 7 days a week. Robin also tied me up
with an A&P that could help solve the wiring problems that Accuracy Avionics
created in the panel that they built for the plane. My OP Technologies EFIS
is now talking properly to the engine monitor and the air data computer.
Most of the function on the OP seem to be operating properly, but there are
a couple of questions that I will have for the OP group.
I have an appointment with GLO Customs for paint in late June and and will
post photos once it is out of the paint shop.
It sure feels good to finally have it in the air!!!
...Jearl Strickland
ps..Robin, I opened the bottle of 1822 Madeira for Ken, my son and I to
celebrate. We need to get together later this week and work on reducing the
volume further!
* *
* *
* *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: g;ideslope capture |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one.
I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily
splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists, then
you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something
else.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: g;ideslope capture |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
That's exactly what I would recommend. Isolate the problem and then narrow it
down until you find the cause. Ideally, you would actually switch the antennas,
like you said you didn't want to do because of the coax.
Another option would be to find someone who has another SL-30 that you could slide
into your tray and see if the problem is the radio or the wiring. If you
are getting the Loc signal at the same distance on both radios, but the glideslope
is not the same, then my thoughts would be something in the radio, which
would be solved by swapping radios with someone.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 26, 2010, at 2:11 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> You didn't use any splitter on the SL-30 input, right? It has an internal one.
> I'd try to get a short length of coax, and a female to female adaptor, to temporarily
splice the known good antenna to the SL-30. If the problem persists,
then you know it's internal to the SL-30. Maybe a bad internal splitter, or something
else.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295762#295762
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | glide slope capture |
Thanks all for the advice--good as always. I'll do the coax switch to isolate
the gremlin (SL30 or ant). Crimping doesn't seem to be the problem since the
localizer comes in "loud and clear". Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Yep...
Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^)
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277
I bought one, but haven't installed it yet.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails |
I switched my door pins and blocks to the slanted design using the delrin blocks
and they work great. The slanted pin uses a threaded rod that can be removed
so you can glue the stock magnets inside of them giving you a clean finish.
As for clocking them, it was pretty simple. I would just make a mark and then
use the 6" 3M wheel to file down the rod until it was perfect and loctite it.
I am using the stock Van's seal which requires more compression than some of the
other aftermarket systems. I wanted as much early engagement of the pin as
I could possibly get.
I'll get some pictures and more video tonight so you can see this system in action.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________
From: DLM <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Mon, April 26, 2010 8:32:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
One other comment. The pins should be about 1/2 inch longer and cut to size
by the builder. Depending on where the latch mechanism is located within the
recess, Vans standard pins can be too short and not place the full
circumference within the metal door frame when engaged.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Pins and Guides Q and A - taken from emails
I thought I would share some questions and answers on door pins and guides
taken off emails with permission from Rudi. There are pros and cons for the
different pins and guides offered. Builders that have dealt with the vans
doors understand easier than new builders who haven't seen the mechanics
behind Vans' doors.
Rudi,
I will be shipping your parts on Wednesday. One question. I now have two
types of pins and guides to pick from actually three. I have bullet type SS
pins that are hollow with a solid tip and I have bullet type pins that have
a small magnet on the end. The hollow ones can have the Van's magnet
dropped inside and glued. The bullet type pins go with aluminum or Delrin
guides. The threaded portion on all my pins are a 5/16-24 set screw that
you threadlock in after installing the magnet. If you want the bullet type
that has the magnet on the end, it is already glued on. The other pins I
have are on a slant and are hollow but have a solid tip, again making it
possible to drop a magnet inside.
RUDI: What type works better with the standard Vans Sensors and standard
Magnets? Bullet type with magnet on front or slanted with magnet on inside?
Sean: Both work good. The slanted pins require you use the Van's magnets
that come in your kit. In a perfect world I would try to talk everyone into
buying the 180 kit with slanted pins and Delrin guides. Van's had a good
idea for the pushrods, they just didn't quite capture the whole plan.
Slanted pins work really well because they pull the full 7/16 of the
material. When you try a bullet type it will only pull half of the bullet
or 7/32. Van's pushrods have the problem of being hollow tipped which
catches their delrin guides or their original UHMW guides. I have seen
builders' doors actually cut into their guides. One door that fell off was
because the pilot thought the door was closed because the hollow tip was
pressed into the plastic guide and later (in flight) failed and opened the
door and there it went. My latch pulls the center of the door and really
helps the pins into the guides. If your seal is super tight, your door will
flex at the fwd and aft where t!
he pins exit the door and enter the guides. The slanted pins are easier to
line up because of the full 7/16 advantage.
They only work well with the Delrin guide blocks I make. Since you have
the 180 kit I recommend the slanted pins and Delrin guides, up to you. With
the slanted pins you have to "clock" the position to pull the door down and
in like the vans original pushrod ends. This is done by filing the end of
the pushrod until the pins line up to your preference. I know it is kind of
weird to have so many options but I am getting a feel to see want everyone
wants/likes.
RUDI: Why does the slanted pins only work with the Delrin guide block?
Sean: The shape of the slant makes it rub and catch on the aluminum as it
pulls into the guides. I believe it is because the oval on the slant acts as
a small rod and enlarges as it pulls into the guide. Metal on metal. That's
why Van's pushrods won't work on aluminum guides. Aluminum gulls on
aluminum.
RUDI: Why do you recommend the slanted pins with the 180 kit?
Sean: Partially answered above, but also because the pins extend so far and
engage through the frame of the aircraft. With 90 degree kits and Van's
original doors it is hard for some builders to get the pin extended past the
Delrin. I like to see the pins through the cabin frame and aluminum
structure instead of just the Delrin guide. That is why a lot of builders
prefer the bullet type pins and aluminum guides on the 90 degree kits or
original equipment.
Sean: Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. If you
don't mind I may want to post this Q and A on Matronics or VAF. I like
people to know pros and cons to each pin and guide.
Thanks
Sean Strasburg
www.planearound.com
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295738#295738
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket Rudder Stops? |
Thanks, Bob. Just what I was looking for.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Yep=85=85=85
>
>
> Oh, you probably want to know where too. :^)
>
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=56277
>
>
> I bought one, but haven=92t installed it yet.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 4:17 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Aftermarket Rudder Stops?
>
>
> Has anyone seen a plastic-type rudder stop alternative?
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi all, I have a trailer that I was going to rent for the week of Oshkosh but we
ended up buying one and plan on bringing it out this year.
It is a nice trailer and I can send pictures. It is $1200 for the week.
He will set it up for you at Oshkosh. I have rented a trailer the past 5 years
and it is a great way to go to Oshkosh. You fly in, your trailer is waiting
for you and you can enjoy the campground with all the activities that occur at
night.
Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested and I can send pictures and the name of
the individual.
Thanks.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | OT - I can do that! |
Right up until they started painting I was thinking, "I can do that!"
http://www.breitbart.tv/florida-one-video-documents-creation-of-new-southwest-jet/
PAINT.... AHHHHHHHHH!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | OT - I can do that! |
I keep telling you, Bill. I've painted my last aircraft. The RV-10 will go
to a professional paint shop, where they've got all the lighting in the
paint booth (did you notice the lighting they were using in that video?
Lighting is crucial for a good paint job). Give up while there's still
time...
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 11:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: OT - I can do that!
Right up until they started painting I was thinking, "I can do that!"
http://www.breitbart.tv/florida-one-video-documents-creation-of-new-southwes
t-jet/
PAINT.... AHHHHHHHHH!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Overhead LED cabin lights |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Here is my Aerosport overhead. I am installing two Aveoflash Eyebeams that can
turn red or white by touch and also has intensity. I made the angled piece by
cutting the aluminum and welding a strip in then filling it in with fiberglass.
The Eyebeams scratch easy so I had them send me two new coverplates. I will
be buying some protective film to cover the new ones like the film on an iphone.
I tried them out and they work great. Two of them cover the entire panel
and make it possible to have two lights instead of four.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296148#296148
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/overhead2_999.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/overhead1_151.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale Garmin 296 |
Seeing the demand for the Garmin 496 I went to the hangar to pull out my
gently used Garmin 296 in excellent condition with several accessories.
Package includes:
=B7 Garmin 296
=B7 Garmin Face Cover
=B7 Yolk Mount (plus Bracket)
=B7 Suction Style RAM Mount (plus Bracket)
=B7 Dash Mount
=B7 12V Power Adapter
=B7 USB Cable
=B7 External GPS Antenna
=B7 Fabric Case
What it is missing:
Attached Antenna (unit was hard mounted in my RV-6A so no need for
antenna-Sorry, can=92t locate)
Comes with External GPS Antenna
Price $625.00
Free US Shipping
Extras:
=B7 12V Power Adapter
=B7 120V AC Charger
=B7
Price $25.00
Free US Shipping
Robin
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
805.801.8550
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Overhead LED cabin lights |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I used lights that are in the Cirrus. Their price was $25.00 each. They come
with 24volt incandescent lights. I changed the bulbs to Chevy side marker bulbs
so they would work on my 12volt system. I am looking into changing the bulbs
to LED. The lights matched the vents I am using with the air conditioning.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296178#296178
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cirrus_lights_795.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Overhead LED cabin lights |
Just a word about your plan. Look at your sun visor and see what kind of ro
om you'll have in that area. If your OVH hangs down a lot you will sacrific
e with sun visor being low at times. Rosans are pretty big.
Patrick Thyssen
--- On Thu, 4/29/10, Strasnuts wrote:
From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Swivel Overhead LED cabin lights
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2010, 12:02 PM
Here is my Aerosport overhead.- I am installing two Aveoflash Eyebeams th
at can turn red or white by touch and also has intensity.- I made the ang
led piece by cutting the aluminum and welding a strip in then filling it in
with fiberglass.- The Eyebeams scratch easy so I had them send me two ne
w coverplates.- I will be buying some protective film to cover the new on
es like the film on an iphone.- I tried them out and they work great.-
Two of them cover the entire panel and make it possible to have two lights
instead of four.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296148#296148
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/overhead2_999.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/overhead1_151.jpg
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Swivel Overhead LED cabin lights |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Good point. I would think that installing them further back where I installed
mine would give more room away from the visors than the commonly mounted red lights
fwd on the console. I don't know I will have to look at that. I guess
there are pros and cons. Hard to adjust if they are in front of the visors and
hard to point to the panel if behind it????
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296192#296192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | G3 ignition systems |
I receive a newsletter called Central States and it is for Canard airplanes
. I was reading a writup about an electronic ignition system www.g3ignition
.com
I don't claim to know much about any of the systems=2C but what I have read
in the writeup and on the web site looks good. I also spoke to the owner o
f the company. I like the redundancy in the event the power is lost it reve
rts back to the normal rt and lf magnito mode.
When I spoke to Rhonda at Barret a while back she was saying that they were
not using Lightspeed because of factory support issues.
Does anyone have any experience with this system(G3i)
Thanks=2C
John Gonzalez=2C 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | G3 ignition systems |
There is another good write up by Larry Vetterman on his web site. Look
at the bottom of the page (http://www.vettermanexhaust.com/) under the
title Results of (3) Exhaust System Tests
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G3 ignition systems
I receive a newsletter called Central States and it is for Canard airplanes.
I was reading a writup about an electronic ignition system
www.g3ignition.com
I don't claim to know much about any of the systems, but what I have read in
the writeup and on the web site looks good. I also spoke to the owner of the
company. I like the redundancy in the event the power is lost it reverts
back to the normal rt and lf magnito mode.
When I spoke to Rhonda at Barret a while back she was saying that they were
not using Lightspeed because of factory support issues.
Does anyone have any experience with this system(G3i)
Thanks,
John Gonzalez, 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rob Hickman's RV-10 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Surprised no one has mentioned the big spred given the RV-10 and Rob's
airplane in this month's KitPlanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G3 ignition systems |
I'm installing it.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: RV 10 group
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 2:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G3 ignition systems
I receive a newsletter called Central States and it is for Canard
airplanes. I was reading a writup about an electronic ignition system
www.g3ignition.com
I don't claim to know much about any of the systems, but what I have
read in the writeup and on the web site looks good. I also spoke to the
owner of the company. I like the redundancy in the event the power is
lost it reverts back to the normal rt and lf magnito mode.
When I spoke to Rhonda at Barret a while back she was saying that they
were not using Lightspeed because of factory support issues.
Does anyone have any experience with this system(G3i)
Thanks,
John Gonzalez, 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Van's stock bottom cowl vents |
Has anyone used a different vent system for the bottom cowl? I have
seen the added side vents, but has anyone used these for the bottom in
place of Van's stock vents.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's stock bottom cowl vents |
Yup,
Here's what I did, to avoid messing up the paint job on the side of the
cowl.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Phase1/slides/DSC07581.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Phase1/slides/DSC07554.html
The next question will be how much did it help w/ heat removal: Andwer:
...not enough.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 4/30/2010 12:35 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> Has anyone used a different vent system for the bottom cowl? I have
> seen the added side vents, but has anyone used these for the bottom in
> place of Van's stock vents.
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder trim de nuevo |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I have always liked the idea of a mechanical and tabless rudder trim rather than
a servo/tab.
Does anyone have any experience or feedback on the "skunkworks" spring bias rudder
trim kit? I have ordered it, but yet to receive it.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296388#296388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder trim de nuevo |
For another data point I LOVE my servo driven rudder tab operated by my
thumb on the infinity grip. Use it all the time to keep the ball centered.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 12:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim de nuevo
I have always liked the idea of a mechanical and tabless rudder trim
rather than a servo/tab.
Does anyone have any experience or feedback on the "skunkworks" spring
bias rudder trim kit? I have ordered it, but yet to receive it.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296388#296388
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim de nuevo |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Myron,
We put this system in Wes's RV-10. He's limited to 35 miles radius during fly-off,
so not much chance to really test the trim at altitude and cruise speed yet,
but he says he's played with it a little and it does what it's supposed to.
So far, he says the plane flies so balanced that he doesn't really need it
yet.
I like it for the same reasons you do -- clean rudder, simple mechanics. Also,
it takes out the "slack cable" effect. I REALLY would recommend that you install
this early in your panel build if you know where it's going -- we added it
later and it involves upside down mumbling, but it can be done. We ended up
putting it to the right of center just because we didn't plan for it and that's
where it fit.
Pay attention to the direction you wrap the cables, and which one goes to what
pedal so that when you roll the knob to the right, you get right trim, etc.
You might want to ask about the springs for the -10. I think they probably sent
the stronger ones if you ordered it for the -10, but there is more friction
in the cables than you'd think; the trim knob will not move the rudder playing
with it on the ground, but apparently holds it where you put it in flight.
They do mention stronger springs for the -10.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Nine hours fly off completed and counting!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296411#296411
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim de nuevo |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Oh, yeah. You might want to brace the bottom of the lower panel where you mount
it -- the tension tends to flex it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Nine hours fly off completed and counting!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296413#296413
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 1 - Getting There... |
The trip to Vernonia Oregon was pleasantly uneventful and rather relaxing, actually.
The Flight on Horizon Air was smooth and the plane left Oakland Airport
right on time and even arrived at Portland Airport 10 minutes early. I was also
pleasantly surprised that the Enterprise rental car establishment at the airport
had a brand new 2010 Chevy Camero's in the fleet. I've been wanting to
drive one since they came out and quickly exchanged my "luxury car" reservation
for the sweet, Silver number seen in the pictures. Its a very nice car. Plenty
of power, handles reasonably well although it tends to over-steer in the
corners, rides well, and has a "very nice" factory sound system. The system
has XM radio support, but Enterprise doesn't maintain a subscription to the service
which is a big-old fat bummer in my opinion. FM radio is a jungle; ack.
Anyway, back to the trip... It was around 2pm by the the time I got on the road,
so my belly was telling me it was time for a refill. I noticed this nice looking
place along the highway called Rose's Restaurant and Bakery and it sounded
like what I was in the mood for, and it turned out my hunch was right. I
ordered a big 'ol greasy BBQ cheese burger that was as big as a mountain and very
tasty. They have some awesome looking deserts there too, but I resisted.
I don't know why I resisted, mind you... Just as I was leaving, the sun turned
to dark gray clouds and then it just started to hail like crazy! It was pretty
cool.
It was about an hour and a half drive from the Portland Airport out to Vernonia.
Along the way, I snapped a couple of pictures of a sweet glider airport by
the highway. The green fields with the airplanes in the background was quite
a sight. I thought wistfully of the RV-8 trapped in the hangar back at home...
Once you turn off the main highway heading towards Vernonia proper, the scenery
is quite spectacular. The filtered sun through the various clouds and patches
of rain made the trip just that much more enjoyable. Well, that and the purr
of the Camero's V8. I'm just saying...
I rolled into Vernonia and the Garmin GPS that came with the car took me right
up to the front door of the Rockcreek Bed & Breakfast. What a lovely place!
The pictures of the interior are the living quarters for the guest. There's just
the one bedroom, so I pretty much had the run of the areas shown. The owners
live in the back half of the house, but the two areas are divided and so the
guest's front half is very private.
Patricia Davis, the curator of the Rockcreek B&B was very nice and made sure everything
was just right. She promised a big breakfast in the morning with all
of my favorite things, so I'm looking forward to that!! :-)
If you're coming to Vernonia for your transition training with Mike Seager, you
own it to yourself to stay here at the Rock Creek B&B. You won't be sorry.
The accommodations are outstanding and the price is very reasonable. Here is
their web site:
http://www.rockcreekbb.com/
After I got settled in, I drove out to the Vernonia airport and looked around until
I found Mike's hanger. I knocked on the door and found him there still and
we had a nice conversation and he showed me his Model T restoration project.
Very cool! I'll have to get some pictures of it tomorrow.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 2 - Sessions 1 |
& 2...
As luck would have it, Thursday morning it was raining in Vernonia Oregon.
Go figure. After a wonderful breakfast at the Rock Creek B&B, I headed out
to the Vernonia airport to meet with Mike Seager at 10am for my first RV
transition training lesson. We spent the first hour in the office for some
"chalk-talk" all about RVs. Mike went over RV speeds, attitudes (the
airplane's, not the pilot's, btw), and other things related to flying an RV
safely. It was a very good primer on the RV.
By now, it was only raining "a little bit", so we headed out to N477RV, an
RV-7, and hopped in. We took off to the West, with a fairly stiff wind. I
nice left hand turn and we headed out toward Scappoose. Mike took me
though some aircraft handling such as turns and climbs and descents and got
me used to the flight controls on the RV. As is typical with most new RV
pilots, I was over-controlling some. The air was *really* bumpy and I was
really working hard to keep the plane level with all the turbulence. Then
Mike showed me how to just let the plane fly itself though those bumps by
relaxing my grip and not constantly over-correcting. Wow! That's was a
lot easier! We headed over to the Scappoose airport and set up to shoot
some landings. There was a "nice", almost 90 degree cross wind there to go
with all of the turbulence, so it was quite a work out both as a pilot and
on my stomach. I didn't barf, but I sure wanted to... After 6 stop and go
landings at Scappoose, we headed back to the Vernonia airport.
Mike has been restoring a 1923 Model T Ford and he decided that he was going
to take it home for lunch that day. What a sweet car! Friday afternoon he
even took me for a ride! Considering they started making Model T's around
1907, it rode surprising well. With the fully enclosed cabin and heater,
it must have seemed like a space-ship compared to the horse and buggy that
most were still using at the time. The little car has an amazing amount of
power. There are a myriad of levers and pedals that must be negotiated to
drive the thing. Most peculiar is that fact that the throttle is not a
pedal, but rather a lever on the steering column that kind of looks like a
turn signal.
Mike's also been into Radio Control model airplanes and has a number of them
hanging from the ceiling in his hanger. Some of them were simply massive
and frankly looked like you could put the family cat or dog on one and take
them for a ride of a life time.
In the afternoon, I headed back out the Vernonia airport at 3PM for my
second lesson. The weather was better, but the report for Scappoose was
for even more wind than in the morning. So, we headed out to the
McMinville airport South of Vernonia about 15 minutes by RV.
http://www.macairclub.com/Welcome.html McMinville is where the Spruce
Goose is now stored and there is a large aircraft museum there.
The wind was fairly calm at McMinville and so we did about 12 stop and go
landings and then headed back the Vernonia airport. BTW, the Vernonia
airport has a large hill on the East end of the field and so you have to
sort of fly a dog leg around the hill and then straighten out right at the
last minute to land on the grass strip. By the end of Friday, I had it
down! Mike said, if you can land at Vernonia, you can land anywhere! :-)
After the second lesson on Thursday, I headed down to Hillsboro to meet some
long time RV-buddies at the Rock Creek Tavern. Don Wentz and Jerry
Springer were there and I met a new RV-buddy named Ryan along with his wife
and daughter. The Rock Creek Tavern is quite a place with lots of
atmosphere and even a live band on a Thursday night. The giant BBQ cheese
burger was nothing short of awesome.
By the time I got home, I was bushed. The giant, comfortable bed at the
Rock Creek B&B felt so good. I didn't wake up until 8 the next morning!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 3 - Session 3... |
Friday morning I headed back out to the Vernonia airport for lesson number 3.
Mike asked me if I'd like to fly the RV-6A this time since it has a constant speed
prop similar to what my RV-8 has. The RV-7 we'd flown the day before has
a fixed pitch prop. Some constant-speed time sounded like a great idea, so we
piled in and took off. I'm really glad that I got some time in the tricycle
gear version of the RV as well. I would seem that it would be just like the
tail wheel version, but easier. In reality, however, landing and taking off are
different propositions and Mike took me though the steps. I'm also glad that
I got the training with the constant-speed prop. The angle of decent on final
approach is significantly greater with the CS prop and its somewhat disconcerting
to be pointing the airplane's nose that far down on final. Its definitely
not a flat approach ala a Cessna 172 or even like the Citibrias I've been
flying.
We flew out towards Scappoose and did some slow flight and climbing turns along
with some power off and power on stalls. I was amazed at how far up you have
to point the nose on the RV to get it to stall with full power. Way up. I mean
WAY up. The stalls were gentle and predictable, but that second stall if
you don't get the nose pushed down far enough was a little weird. Other than
that, the stall handling and recovery were pretty text-book.
We headed over to Scappoose and shot about 8 stop and go landings. Again, kind
of a stiff cross wind, but there wasn't too much turbulence so that was good.
After that, we headed back to Vernonia and I made a pretty good landing on the
grass strip!
I didn't get any pictures of the RV-6A we flew today, but attached are some additional
pictures of the RV-7 I was flying.
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV Transition Training w/ Mike Seager - Day 3 - Session 4... |
By the time the afternoon session on Friday rolled around, the weather was looking
pretty good. Still cloudy, but clouds were fairly high - around 3500ft -
and the wind wasn't blowing too bad. We got back in the RV-7 and took off and
headed West toward the Astoria airport out on the coast. We shot a number of
stop and go landings here and then headed out to the Oregon Coastline proper
at about 800 feet. I got some great pictures from plane as we were flying along.
It was amazingly beautiful and I commented to Mike that there are very few
people that have had the opportunity to experience the beauty of the coastline
from that perspective. Spectacular.
We shot a full stop landing at the Seaside Airport (56S) and then headed down the
coast a bit further to the Nehalem Bay State Airport (3S7) and shot a landing
there as well. From there we headed back to Vernonia where I managed to squeak
out yet another pretty good landing!
All toll across the 2 days and 4 sessions, I flew 6.0 hours with Mike and made
34 takeoffs and landings. I have to say that I feel much more confident now in
the RV. I absolutely cannot recommend this experience highly enough to anyone
who is getting ready to fly an RV for the first or near the first time. Whether
its for an insurance requirement or not, you cannot afford to not take the
time to learn the specifics of flying an RV aircraft. Particularly if you
only have Cessna or Piper time, but even if you have a fair amount of tail-dragger
time in aircraft such as the Citibria like I did. The training is invaluable
and frankly a must.
I also cannot speak highly enough of Mike Seager. What a pleasure it was flying
with him these last two days. His years of experience really shows and his
calm, yet firm manner was perfect for the task at hand. If you are about ready
to fly your RV, give Mike a call and schedule some time to get checked out.
You won't be sorry you did. I told Mike as I was handing him the check for his
effort, "You know Mike, this was the best money I've spent on my RV-8 project",
and I truly meant that.
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cushioned steel loop clamps |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
In my TMX- 540 they used cushioned steel loop clamps to hold the fuel lines attached
to the valve push rods. I'd like to use the same ones to hold my ignition
cables for the LSE in place. Does anyone know where I can get those? The MS
numer is MS21333-75.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296453#296453
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cushioned steel loop clamps |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Genuine Aircraft Hardware lists them in their catalog, cushioned and
uncushioned in various sizes. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/
On Sun, May 2, 2010 at 4:37 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> In my TMX- 540 they used cushioned steel loop clamps to hold the fuel lines attached
to the valve push rods. I'd like to use the same ones to hold my ignition
cables for the LSE in place. Does anyone know where I can get those? The MS
numer is MS21333-75.
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296453#296453
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Cushioned steel loop clamps |
Adel clamps, cushioned and un-cushioned are available from Aircraft Spruce,
Wicks, B&B Aircraft supplies, or from the fly market vendors at SNF and OSH.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cushioned steel loop clamps
Genuine Aircraft Hardware lists them in their catalog, cushioned and
uncushioned in various sizes. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/
On Sun, May 2, 2010 at 4:37 AM, Michael Wellenzohn
wrote:
>
> In my TMX- 540 they used cushioned steel loop clamps to hold the fuel
lines attached to the valve push rods. I'd like to use the same ones to hold
my ignition cables for the LSE in place. Does anyone know where I can get
those? The MS numer is MS21333-75.
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296453#296453
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cushioned steel loop clamps |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Kelly that's exactly what I was looking for.
Spruce just sells clamps made out of aluminum.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296478#296478
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim de nuevo |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks for the info fellers.
I will install this thing and report back. It appears simple and cheap.
Robin,
I can appreciate the ease of the koolie hat. I am trying something different with
my stick grips (cutting/modifying the uprights off of a Boeing 737 yoke) and
that leaves me PTT, Pitch trim, and A/P disconnect, so no koolie hat for me.
BTW, My wife wants to improve the menu for the RV-10 nest at Copperstate, but I
told her we still have to have the special krispie treats for you.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296489#296489
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim de nuevo |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'm a big fan of those too. ;-)
On Sun, May 2, 2010 at 12:02 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> BTW, My wife wants to improve the menu for the RV-10 nest at Copperstate, but
I told her we still have to have the special krispie treats for you.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Product Report - iFLYgps700 |
| From: | "Stephen Blank,DDS" <sblankdds(at)gmail.com> |
If you are looking for moving map dispays, i9 found this little gem at Sun n
Fun, the iFly GPS 700.
It is an inexpensive touch screen driven GPS overlayed on sectional charts.
There are NO hard keys anywhere!
This is great for VFR pilots, and Nav Data for IFR situational awareness.
In addition, it contains all the IFR charts for reference, but the GPS does
NOT overlay the approach plates. Total cost is the best part - $499.
Data updates are only $69 per YEAR and are done at home on any computer with
a USB port as often as needed.
Download the latest data (sectionals, approach plates, software) and then
plugin to the unit for simple update. This covers all US sectionals, and
gives you the current TFR's and Metars.
There is NO weather download in air.
The data fields can be resized, colored and moved or deleted.
Intuitive flight planing and adding waypoints on the fly.
Check out the You Tube Video. (turn up the volume, he is too soft for me)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xqFmLRoSiA
More GPS info - http://ifly.adventurepilot.com/
For the best search engine for $100 hamburgers - http://adventurepilot.com/
Steve (I am not seling this, just using it)
n2715d C-170
RV-10 #40499 building.....
Stephen G. Blank, DDS
184 NW Central Park Plaza
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986
772-475-5556 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | MilSPec Fittings |
Hi
I am interested in using MILSPEC fittings for my cowl. I was wondering,
however, how difficult is it to remove the grommets after installation. I
would like to to be able to remove the cowl hardware prior to painting the
cowl.
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim de nuevo |
Not sure how you could improve on last year. Yum yum.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 12:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim de nuevo
Thanks for the info fellers.
I will install this thing and report back. It appears simple and cheap.
Robin,
I can appreciate the ease of the koolie hat. I am trying something
different with my stick grips (cutting/modifying the uprights off of a
Boeing 737 yoke) and that leaves me PTT, Pitch trim, and A/P disconnect,
so no koolie hat for me.
BTW, My wife wants to improve the menu for the RV-10 nest at Copperstate,
but I told her we still have to have the special krispie treats for you.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296489#296489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MilSPec Fittings |
Don't put the rings on till your ready to have them on for good
actually I never did put the retainers on after paint, I just pull
them out of the holes
Rick
On May 2, 2010, at 2:08 PM, "Les Kearney" wrote:
> Hi
>
> I am interested in using MILSPEC fittings for my cowl. I was
> wondering, however, how difficult is it to remove the grommets after
> installation. I would like to to be able to remove the cowl hardware
> prior to painting the cowl.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MilSPec Fittings |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I did put the retainers on mine so I wouldn't lose the fitting. They are easy to
remove with a sharp pointy tool. You can also buy extra retainers cheaply in
case you bugger one up.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296549#296549
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cushioned steel loop clamps |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> Thanks Kelly that's exactly what I was looking for.
> Spruce just sells clamps made out of aluminum.
>
> Michael
Just out of curiosity, why isn't aluminum acceptable? If they look better, then
I understand (g)
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296575#296575
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cushioned steel loop clamps |
Engine compartment, steel holds a bit longer in case of a fire :)
I guess
Werner
On 03.05.2010 14:40, johngoodman wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman"
>
>
> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>> Thanks Kelly that's exactly what I was looking for.
>> Spruce just sells clamps made out of aluminum.
>>
>> Michael
>
>
> Just out of curiosity, why isn't aluminum acceptable? If they look better, then
I understand (g)
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Working on Cowling& Panel
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296575#296575
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Does anyone know who's the manufacturer of the power plug used on the XM receiver
box? See attached picture.
I'd like to use aircraft wire to hook it up instead of the wire they supply with
the box.
Thanks,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296585#296585
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dc_power_supply_4b117b1278d85_173.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I don't know who makes it, but perhaps you can help me with a problem related to
the connector I was about to post. In relationship to the 2-pin connector to
the box, which pin is positive and which is negative? I'll spare the details,
but I cut above where I marked the wires and haven't a clue which one goes where
now that I am trying to wire it in. Ooops.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296592#296592
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | WxWorx connector |
If it's like the one I just sold it is a dc power plug.
Looking at the picture the left box is the GRT processor; the right puck is
the XM receiver. The connections are the antenna (pink), the data connection
to the GRT processor, and the DC power plug.
The ultimate power connections of the whole system is the red/black wires
out of the Dsub on the GRT processor. This may help.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 7:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: WxWorx connector
-->
Does anyone know who's the manufacturer of the power plug used on the XM
receiver box? See attached picture.
I'd like to use aircraft wire to hook it up instead of the wire they supply
with the box.
Thanks,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296585#296585
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dc_power_supply_4b117b1278d85_173.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | antenna problems |
Last week I indicated a problem of not receiving glide slope information on my
SL-30 but was getting good localizer data, and the 430 was getting both loc and
gs from the other ant. Both radios get the VOR stuff normally. I have switched
the ant. leads and found that now the 430 isn't getting the gs (but still
gets the loc) and the SL-30 gets both nicely. Thus I have an antenna problem
but only in the frequency range of the glideslope (I think the gs freq. is much
higher than the loc. freq.) So what gives? And more importantly what do I
do? The ant. in question is in the port wing tip fastened to the lower aspect
of the fiberglass fairing, and grounded to the wing skin (just like the other
nicely functioning ant. in the other wing tip). The marker beacon ant. is also
in that wing tip but fastened to the upper aspect of the fairing. Is there
anyway that the mb ant is interfering? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
Take your voltmeter and check continuity to the center whether it be male or
female; that is the positive wire. The external metal is ground.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 10:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: WxWorx connector
I don't know who makes it, but perhaps you can help me with a problem
related to the connector I was about to post. In relationship to the 2-pin
connector to the box, which pin is positive and which is negative? I'll
spare the details, but I cut above where I marked the wires and haven't a
clue which one goes where now that I am trying to wire it in. Ooops.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296592#296592
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
My connector has the two pin plug as shown in Lenny's pic, however, the other end
terminated in 16 ga. red and black wires with an in-line fuse. When cutting
the wire to connect to the lead wires from my panel buss, I cut on the wrong
side of my marks and can't tell which pin is the power wire. My WXWorx box is
a single black box with a USB to the GRT screen, the antenna, and the power wire
I cut. I have no diagrams from the manufacturer showing the pin identification,
and I have been unable to contact any manufacturer that can/is willing to
help. Looking at the end of the plug Lenny has, with the notch down, which wire
is positive is what I need to determine.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296621#296621
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna problems |
Any chance the MB and VOR antenna cables got mixed up?
I think MB antenna would sorta work for VOR/loc freqs, but not GS.
> On May 3, 2010, at 3:54 PM, wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by:
>>
>> Last week I indicated a problem of not receiving glide slope information on
my SL-30 but was getting good localizer data, and the 430 was getting both loc
and gs from the other ant. Both radios get the VOR stuff normally. I have switched
the ant. leads and found that now the 430 isn't getting the gs (but still
gets the loc) and the SL-30 gets both nicely. Thus I have an antenna problem
but only in the frequency range of the glideslope (I think the gs freq. is
much higher than the loc. freq.) So what gives? And more importantly what do
I do? The ant. in question is in the port wing tip fastened to the lower aspect
of the fiberglass fairing, and grounded to the wing skin (just like the other
nicely functioning ant. in the other wing tip). The marker beacon ant. is
also in that wing tip but fastened to the upper aspect of the fairing. Is there
anyway that the mb ant is interfering? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | antenna problems |
Jay,
Interesting problem. You are correct, Glide Slope is three times higher in
frequency than VOR or LOC transmissions. Since antenna are resonate at odd
multiples of operation frequencies, VOR/LOC antennas work just fine for
Glide Slope.
>From your note you point out the both VOR antennas are identical and mounted
in similar fashions, one in each wingtip. As such both antennas must work -
unless there is some other problem. Your note say both work at VOR
frequencies. I wonder however if both work equally well at VOR frequencies.
My guess is they don't.
I would first look at the most common culprits for such things, the antenna
connections or less frequent a bad run of coax (the coax perhaps damaged on
installation). The best way to do this is with an antenna analyzer. Most
amateur radio operators have one. You might try the local ham radio club.
Someone will jump at the chance to help. Here is a standard analyzer that
will do anything you need:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-249B
My thinking is the problem is not so bad that you do not receive any VOR
signals, but such problems tend to have more of an effect at the higher GS
frequency. I would not suspect the MB antenna unless it is very close (a
few inches) from the VOR antenna. Come to think about it, make sure your MB
and VOR antenna leads are not swapped. A MB antenna will make a poor VOR
antenna, but it will work with strong signals.
Carl Froehlich
RV-10 (systems install)
RV-8A (525 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 3:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: antenna problems
Last week I indicated a problem of not receiving glide slope information on
my SL-30 but was getting good localizer data, and the 430 was getting both
loc and gs from the other ant. Both radios get the VOR stuff normally. I
have switched the ant. leads and found that now the 430 isn't getting the gs
(but still gets the loc) and the SL-30 gets both nicely. Thus I have an
antenna problem but only in the frequency range of the glideslope (I think
the gs freq. is much higher than the loc. freq.) So what gives? And more
importantly what do I do? The ant. in question is in the port wing tip
fastened to the lower aspect of the fiberglass fairing, and grounded to the
wing skin (just like the other nicely functioning ant. in the other wing
tip). The marker beacon ant. is also in that wing tip but fastened to the
upper aspect of the fairing. Is there anyway that the mb ant is
interfering? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | OSH headquarters camping |
It looks like we will be tent camping at RV10 headquarters sunday monday
tuesday. There will be four of us (two fathers and sons). Anyone have room
for a couple of two man tents for three nights? Also who is keeping the list
of campers at RV10 headquarters?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: antenna problems |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
This is a long shot - is it possible the GS is "shadowed" by the fuselage? The
GS transmitting antenna is slightly offset from the runway, while the localizer
is off the far end. Easy test: while on the ILS, swing the nose around 5 deg
or so, to the right (if the problem antenna is on left side), see if that makes
any difference.
Otherwise, I'd make sure there are no GS/LOC splitters inadvertently in the line
from that antenna.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296644#296644
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before mounting engine |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
jayb wrote:
> Riveting the cowl hinges before attaching the engine mount is a good idea as
the mount gets in the way of several hinge rivets. By the time I realized this,
the engine was already hung and it got interesting.
>
> I pulled FW wires after the engine on without problem. One advantage of doing
it this way is that everything is known to be accessible after the fact.
>
> Attached forest of ground tabs to FW before engine on.
>
> Mounted LSE Electronic Ignition to aft side of FW before engine on.
>
> Install of air vent control cables after engine on doesn't look like fun as there's
little clearance. I didn't have my cabin mounts done at the time, so I'll
be the poster child for doing it backwards.
>
> Ran engine control cables after engine on without problem. Would have been easier
beforehand though.
>
> Jay
Jay,
Do you have a photo of your firewall that you can share? I haven't installed
the mount yet, but am looking to install the forest of tabs and the the fat cables
this coming weekend. My concern is that I'll install them someplace where
I wish I hadn't after the engine gets mounted.
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296645#296645
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Rowe <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna problems |
Thanks for the suggestions. I even talked to bob archer today. The
problem, he thinks, is an "unhealthy" connection at the ant. I did
not discuss the possibility of switching the mb and nav ants but that
may be a possibility since the runs are side by each all the way. That
will be very easy to check out. I'll have more info tomorrow. Jay
Sent from my iPhone
On May 3, 2010, at 8:40 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Any chance the MB and VOR antenna cables got mixed up?
> I think MB antenna would sorta work for VOR/loc freqs, but not GS.
>
>
>> On May 3, 2010, at 3:54 PM, > > wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by:
>>>
>>> Last week I indicated a problem of not receiving glide slope
>>> information on my SL-30 but was getting good localizer data, and
>>> the 430 was getting both loc and gs from the other ant. Both
>>> radios get the VOR stuff normally. I have switched the ant. leads
>>> and found that now the 430 isn't getting the gs (but still gets
>>> the loc) and the SL-30 gets both nicely. Thus I have an antenna
>>> problem but only in the frequency range of the glideslope (I think
>>> the gs freq. is much higher than the loc. freq.) So what gives?
>>> And more importantly what do I do? The ant. in question is in the
>>> port wing tip fastened to the lower aspect of the fiberglass
>>> fairing, and grounded to the wing skin (just like the other nicely
>>> functioning ant. in the other wing tip). The marker beacon ant.
>>> is also in that wing tip but fastened to the upper aspect of the
>>> fairing. Is there anyway that the mb ant is interfering? Thanks,
>>> Jay Rowe #40301
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Eric,
My wx box is in hangar right now. I'll head out there tomorrow with a Voltmeter
and check it out for you.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296652#296652
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | N998RV Flies - Teaser Shot! |
Yahooo!!
Mr RV-8 flew today for the first time!! Yahoo! .5 hours at 1pm and 1.0 hours
again at 4:30pm! There's a ton more pictures and some sweet videos, but this
will have to do for now... More to come!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter James" <RVPilot(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | WxWorx connector |
The connector is made by Conxall. I bought additional connectors at
Digikey. They are in the Digikey catalog on page 264-265.
Pete
_______________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Subject: RV10-List: WxWorx connector
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Does anyone know who's the manufacturer of the power plug used on the XM
receiver
box? See attached picture.
I'd like to use aircraft wire to hook it up instead of the wire they supply
with
the box.
Thanks,
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296585#296585
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dc_power_supply_4b117b1278d85_173.jpg
<http://forums.matronics.com/files/dc_power_supply_4b117b1278d85_173.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Before mounting engine |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Photo is attached. No warranties as I'm not flying yet. Aft tab access may be less
fun than the firewall side.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296703#296703
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0768_190.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
I'm doing this from memory, but I thought I was told that in the GRT
setup, the box is powered by the USB connection?
Bill
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> My connector has the two pin plug as shown in Lenny's pic, however, the other
end terminated in 16 ga. red and black wires with an in-line fuse. When cutting
the wire to connect to the lead wires from my panel buss, I cut on the wrong
side of my marks and can't tell which pin is the power wire. My WXWorx box is
a single black box with a USB to the GRT screen, the antenna, and the power
wire I cut. I have no diagrams from the manufacturer showing the pin identification,
and I have been unable to contact any manufacturer that can/is willing
to help. Looking at the end of the plug Lenny has, with the notch down, which
wire is positive is what I need to determine.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296621#296621
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | OSH headquarters camping |
I wasn't planning to get things into high gear yet but the plan is to do th
ings just like the past few years. I'll post something later in May or ear
ly June when I've verified costs and am ready to start collecting money.
Most general questions are answered on the FAQs from last year on Tim's web
site: http://www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
We (Gary, Tim and I) haven't coordinated details yet but I expect that we'l
l do about what we've done in the past. For those unfamiliar with how it w
orks:
- Gary and I (and Brenda and Susan) usually arrive Monday (or so)
the week prior to OSH and locate an area where we can have a group of adjac
ent sites.
- The past few years this has been in the area of 55th and Lindber
gh in Camp Scholler which is very close to the gates, showers, etc.
o Actual location will depend on what's available when we get there.
- EAA requires that sites be paid for from when "staked out" until
the end of the show. If you leave early unused nights are refunded.
- You must have an EAA membership with an expiration date later th
an Aug 2010 (Show ends 8/1/10)
- People desiring a spot in the "RV-10 HQ" area send payment to me
in advance.
- We stake out the sites and pay first thing Tuesday morning the w
eek before AirVenture starts.
o Each person will have a site officially registered and tagged in their
name
o At that point you have a site at OSH with your name on it
- When you arrive at OSH simply call and we'll meet you at the ent
rance with your registration package including car pass.
- Site size is nominally 20x30 (feet). In accordance with EAA's r
ules, we can make the site larger if required for large motorhomes or trail
er rigs.
- If you rent a camper from Fox Valley RV (or similar) you can pro
vide us as POC and we'll get them the location info
General notes:
There are usually a couple of "announced" large cookouts in the RV-10 HQ ar
ea. In addition to those camping in the group, it will be open to RV-10 bu
ilders, flyers, enthusiasts, vendors, etc. that feel like showing up. Atte
ndance has exceeded 100 every time we've had one...
To fund the cookouts we simply put out a collection plate with the intent o
f simply covering costs. Because of generosity in the past we've again got
a surplus from last year and will use part of that to pay for a common sit
e for gathering. We usually can come up with several canopies for shade.
If there are picnic tables to be found we'll put some of them in that area
also.
The area is very close to both the Theater in the Woods and FlyMarket gates
and therefore easily accessible to those attending but not camping. Any a
fternoon/evening during the show you will find at least a few RV-10 types h
anging around the camping area.
We get there early and don't mind a little work for the common cause but it
seems that every year a couple of situations always come up...
- Invariably somebody that didn't sign up for a site will call (or
even show up) a few days after we've staked out the sites and want one. S
ometimes they'll get lucky and there will be something adjacent or close, s
ometimes not. We can only guarantee a site for those that have paid in adv
ance and that we've specifically staked out sites for.
- Any coordination for cost sharing, splitting a site for the week
, sharing a site, etc. is between individuals. Tim has in the past posted
a calendar on his website to facilitate this.
Let the countdown begin!
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Thanks Pete!
Mine is an Ethernet version and it could be powered by the Ethernet line, but the
switch i'm using does not support Power over Ethernet, so I need to connect
the power wire.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296734#296734
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N998RV Flies - Teaser Shot! |
Congrats Matt. Looking forward to the videos.
-Sean #40303
On 5/3/10 10:22 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Yahooo!!
>
> Mr RV-8 flew today for the first time!! Yahoo! .5 hours at 1pm and 1.0 hours
again at 4:30pm! There's a ton more pictures and some sweet videos, but this
will have to do for now... More to come!
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flight
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Missing glide slope problem solved!!! |
Some of you will recall my difficulties in getting the glideslope frequency to
my SL-30 although the localizer came in fine, and even the glideslope showed up
when I was within a mile of the TDZ. The problem was simple and all "pilot
error". Some of you raised the possibility of having the leads switched between
the marker beacon and navigation antennas. Even Bob
Archer didn't come up with that possibility. But that was the answer. I had mislabeled
the coaxial cables. Everything works spot on now. Thanks to all. The suggestions
saved me the task of removing/replacing the wing tip fairings. Jay
Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter James" <RVPilot(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | FW: firewall pass through |
RV-6A builder Roger Bocox told me about these. This is what's on my plane.
We simply drilled out the hole the grommet was in the plans with a large
hole to accommodate the stud. It seal, insulates, and passes the current
through in a single step.
Here is a link to a couple of different models. Ours is:
<http://www.quickcar.net/electric/57700.html>
http://www.quickcar.net/electric/57700.html
or a different style
<http://bluesea.com/category/9/productline/overview/11>
http://bluesea.com/category/9/productline/overview/11
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Eric,
Checked my connections. See the attached picture.
Jesse, thanks for that idea! Not bad, but now that I found the connector, that
will be a better solution.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296768#296768
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wxworx_connector_314.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WxWorx connector |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Thats what I needed! Thanks Lenny!
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296771#296771
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)ausawd.com> |
G'day all,
Anybody know where I can get a GRT EFIS Simulator? Reading the manual only
gets you so far and I'm not too keen on shaking down Synthetic and ILS app
roaches inside controlled airspace until I have mastered the 'knobology'.
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz, finishing first annual
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Simulators |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
If you find anything I would like it too. I figure 6-8 months until I am flying.
Maybe more, maybe less. No hurry, but when I get there, like you I want to be
as familiar as I can with the system.
Eric Kallio
Fairings, cowling, and wiring.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296782#296782
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
| From: | Matthew Collier <ivdiggs(at)gmail.com> |
Dear RV-10 list readers,
I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to
install the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes are
about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall. I'm
wondering if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off. If
anyone out there knows if this is normally what is expected please let me
know. Everything else in this excellent kit has fit very well and it's not
my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way. It's just
surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area I would consider to
be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasing the holes out but
which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments and experiences are
welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
Hey Matthew,
Ours was a very close fit. Three holes perfect, the last hole with
minimal persuasion. I think I'd give Van's a call first before chasing
the holes and get their opinion about bending the mount to fit the
holes.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Collier
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite
a bit.
Dear RV-10 list readers,
I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to
install the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes
are about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall.
I'm wondering if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off.
If anyone out there knows if this is normally what is expected please
let me know. Everything else in this excellent kit has fit very well and
it's not my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way.
It's just surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area I would
consider to be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasing the
holes out but which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments
and experiences are welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
These mounts, actually mounts from most kit vendors, are off by a bit.
Because of manufacturing and the welding process, some miss alignment
occurs. Install the bolts in the areas that are the most inflexible, the
center ones, and then work your way around to get the others in. I have not
heard of any folks who were unable to get them in, it just takes holding
your mouth just so and persuading it to move over a bit.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Collier
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit.
Dear RV-10 list readers,
I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to
install the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes are
about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall. I'm
wondering if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off. If
anyone out there knows if this is normally what is expected please let me
know. Everything else in this excellent kit has fit very well and it's not
my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way. It's just
surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area I would consider to
be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasing the holes out but
which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments and experiences are
welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
I did not have too much trouble aligning the holes as I remember. It
did take a small amount of persuading but not too bad. I just started
installing the bolts and everything began to align. I did hear of at
least one mount that was replaced by Van's however.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Collier
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 12:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite
a bit.
Dear RV-10 list readers,
I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to
install the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes
are about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall.
I'm wondering if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off.
If anyone out there knows if this is normally what is expected please
let me know. Everything else in this excellent kit has fit very well and
it's not my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way.
It's just surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area I would
consider to be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasing the
holes out but which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments
and experiences are welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
Apparently this is pretty typical. I was complaining to my A&P friend and h
e said that even on the certified planes that this was the usual (mis)fit.
I was trying to do the mounting by myself but finally gave up and got some
help. That made it somewhat easier.
From: lewgall(at)charter.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
bit.
Date: Wed=2C 5 May 2010 08:13:09 -0400
Hey Matthew=2C
Ours was a very close fit. Three holes
perfect=2C the last hole with minimal persuasion. I think I'd give Van's a
call first before chasing the holes and get their opinion about bending the
mount to fit the holes.
Later=2C - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From:
Matthew Collier
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday=2C May 05=2C 2010 1:14
AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alignment of engine
mount holes seem off by quite a bit.
Dear RV-10 list readers=2C
I've been building my RV-10 for
about a year and a half. It's time to install the engine mount and I was
shocked to find the mounting holes are about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the
pre-drilled holes in the firewall. I'm wondering if this is typical or if
my
mount was build a little off. If anyone out there knows if this is normal
ly
what is expected please let me know. Everything else in this excellent ki
t has
fit very well and it's not my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Van
s in
any way. It's just surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area
I
would consider to be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasin
g the
holes out but which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments an
d
experiences are welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inbox
.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ron,
Short answer is that there is no simulator for GRT. There are a couple of
other options that might help if you've actually got one of the display uni
ts.
1) There is apparently an MS flight sim driver that allows you to plug
your GRT in to the PC. I've never used it but on the surface it sounds in
teresting. Chatter that I've seen sounds like usability is limited - prett
y much display only.
2) GRTs have the ability to record/playback flight info. There are so
me that you can download, put on a USB stick and then "playback" on a displ
ay. This is really nice because you can flip between screens, etc. but aga
in it's only playback and not entirely interactive.
If you aren't already a member, I strongly recommend joining the GRT Yahoo
group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/. You will find discussion
, files for download, etc. that can be very helpful.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (with 3 screen GRT)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: EFIS Simulators
G'day all,
Anybody know where I can get a GRT EFIS Simulator? Reading the manual only
gets you so far and I'm not too keen on shaking down Synthetic and ILS app
roaches inside controlled airspace until I have mastered the 'knobology'.
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz, finishing first annual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
It's all about quality control.... if they have the proper jigs, and they w
eld in the appropriate steps, it should be within pretty close tolerances.
- Van's should make up an acceptance jig to ck the motor mounts prior to
shipping.... depends on whether they're doing them, or they out-source them
.- If it's out by as much as you say, I'd send it back in the hopes that
the next one is better.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 5/5/10, Danny Riggs wrote:
From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
bit.
Date: Wednesday, May 5, 2010, 6:21 AM
Apparently this is pretty typical. I was complaining to my A&P friend and h
e said that even on the certified planes that this was the usual (mis)fit.
I was trying to do the mounting by myself but finally gave up and got some
help. That made it somewhat easier.
From: lewgall(at)charter.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
bit.
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:13:09 -0400
Hey Matthew,
-
Ours was a very close fit.- Three holes perfect, the last hole with minim
al persuasion.- I think I'd give Van's a call first before chasing the ho
les and get their opinion about bending the mount to fit the holes.
-
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Collier
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit
.
Dear RV-10 list readers,
I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to insta
ll the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes are about
3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall. I'm wondering
if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off. If anyone out th
ere knows if this is normally what is expected please let me know. Everythi
ng else in this excellent kit has fit very well and it's not my intention t
o speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way. It's just surprising to find
a mis-alignment so great in an area I would consider to be one of the most
important. I'm tempted to try chasing the holes out but which ones do I ali
gn it with first? Everyone's comments and experiences are welcome.
Thank you.
Matthew Collier
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/contribution
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
Get started.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Before tightening any nuts, a few of my holes were perfect, but a couple
others seemed way off (the pilot hole was barely within the engine mount
hole). I then tightened the nuts on the holes that did align. That pulled
the mount tight against the firewall, which also made the holes closer. At
that point, they were all within 1/8" of center.
Note I drilled my first hole without the mount on, then had my wife hold the
mount while I drilled the second hole. From there, the mount holds itself
:)
-Rob
On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 7:38 AM, Don McDonald wrote:
> It's all about quality control.... if they have the proper jigs, and
> they weld in the appropriate steps, it should be within pretty close
> tolerances. Van's should make up an acceptance jig to ck the motor mounts
> prior to shipping.... depends on whether they're doing them, or they
> out-source them. If it's out by as much as you say, I'd send it back in the
> hopes that the next one is better.
> Don McDonald
>
>
> --- On *Wed, 5/5/10, Danny Riggs * wrote:
>
>
> From: Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
> bit.
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, May 5, 2010, 6:21 AM
>
> Apparently this is pretty typical. I was complaining to my A&P friend and
> he said that even on the certified planes that this was the usual (mis)fit.
> I was trying to do the mounting by myself but finally gave up and got some
> help. That made it somewhat easier.
>
> ------------------------------
> From: lewgall(at)charter.net
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
> bit.
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:13:09 -0400
>
> Hey Matthew,
>
> Ours was a very close fit. Three holes perfect, the last hole with minimal
> persuasion. I think I'd give Van's a call first before chasing the holes
> and get their opinion about bending the mount to fit the holes.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Matthew Collier<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=ivdiggs@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 05, 2010 1:14 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a
> bit.
>
> Dear RV-10 list readers,
>
> I've been building my RV-10 for about a year and a half. It's time to
> install the engine mount and I was shocked to find the mounting holes are
> about 3/16" to 1/4" off from the pre-drilled holes in the firewall. I'm
> wondering if this is typical or if my mount was build a little off. If
> anyone out there knows if this is normally what is expected please let me
> know. Everything else in this excellent kit has fit very well and it's not
> my intention to speak poorly of the kit or Vans in any way. It's just
> surprising to find a mis-alignment so great in an area I would consider to
> be one of the most important. I'm tempted to try chasing the holes out but
> which ones do I align it with first? Everyone's comments and experiences are
> welcome.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Matthew Collier
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> * http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------
> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get
> started.<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3>
>
> *
>
> get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alignment of engine mount holes seem off by quite a bit. |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I had the same problem. Per Vans' advice I used a clamp to pull the mount over
far enough that the firewall hole was still not centered, but completely within,
the engine mount hole. Then I match drilled it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296852#296852
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
As an FYI for any builder about to make a avionics choice:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160431095390&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_2927wt_1165
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: eBay Avionics |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
So I guess they still haven't sold it. This was listed at Sun-n-Fun for $29,995
on a board in Wentworth's booth... I thought it was a good deal...
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296868#296868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
A bit of Due Diligence is needed here. The system as pictured can't (read
can NOT) be made into a G900X system since the GIA-63 boxes are Non-WAAS.
You're stuck with a system that you can't load any G900X software on and
they are old non WAAS boxes. No SVT terrain, etc.. They are great G-1000
components (for older installations or in Non-WAAS installs), but not a
great solution for a G900X. If they were a steal, I'd have bought the same
boxes at the same auction they did, as I have a pretty good idea of what
stuff is worth.
As always, buyer beware and do your homework before buying 2nd hand stuff
without knowing EXACTLY what you're getting and exactly what you can do with
it.
My 2 cents as usual. Not trying to flame anyone, just trying to make sure
nobody gets something they didn't bargain for.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: eBay Avionics
As an FYI for any builder about to make a avionics choice:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160431095390&
fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_2927wt_1165>
&item=160431095390&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_292
7wt_1165
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: eBay Avionics |
Stein;
You and I spoke yesterday about our similar financial crunch, many may
have forgotten what you did for your customers with those Cheltons when
that company left everyone hanging a couple of years ago. It pays to
remember you took the hit for them and made sure they were taken care of
even if it meant delaying your progress on the RV-6 just as you are
doing with this last post. I enjoyed our conversation and your insight,
truly you are among the few that provide an excellent customer support
experience and anyone who thinks a word of advice from you is flaming
will eventually find their decision may leave them going down in flames.
Thank you!
Pascal
From: Stein Bruch
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: eBay Avionics
A bit of Due Diligence is needed here. The system as pictured can't
(read can NOT) be made into a G900X system since the GIA-63 boxes are
Non-WAAS. You're stuck with a system that you can't load any G900X
software on and they are old non WAAS boxes. No SVT terrain, etc.. They
are great G-1000 components (for older installations or in Non-WAAS
installs), but not a great solution for a G900X. If they were a steal,
I'd have bought the same boxes at the same auction they did, as I have a
pretty good idea of what stuff is worth.
As always, buyer beware and do your homework before buying 2nd hand
stuff without knowing EXACTLY what you're getting and exactly what you
can do with it.
My 2 cents as usual. Not trying to flame anyone, just trying to make
sure nobody gets something they didn't bargain for.
Cheers,
Stein
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: eBay Avionics
As an FYI for any builder about to make a avionics choice:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160431095
390&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_2927wt_1165
Robin
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Door/Baggage Locks |
Hello all,
I'm wondering if anyone has solved this problem: I am trying to find three door
locks, one for the baggage door and one each for the main doors. Spruce sells
a set of two, but I'm not sure if these can be re-keyed. I'd like for all three
locks to use the same key if possible.
By the way, my ignition will not have a key as it uses the Vertical Power system.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door/Baggage Locks |
IFLYRV10.com
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed May 05 16:35:11 2010
Subject: RV10-List: Door/Baggage Locks
Hello all,
I'm wondering if anyone has solved this problem: I am trying to find three door
locks, one for the baggage door and one each for the main doors. Spruce sells
a set of two, but I'm not sure if these can be re-keyed. I'd like for all three
locks to use the same key if possible.
By the way, my ignition will not have a key as it uses the Vertical Power system.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Door/Baggage Locks |
You can get them from iflyrv10.com.
If you are more energetic, you may be able to pick them up at home depot or
lowes. Your local locksmith should also be able to assist. Most sell
hardware.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 7:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door/Baggage Locks
Hello all,
I'm wondering if anyone has solved this problem: I am trying to find three
door locks, one for the baggage door and one each for the main doors. Spruce
sells a set of two, but I'm not sure if these can be re-keyed. I'd like for
all three locks to use the same key if possible.
By the way, my ignition will not have a key as it uses the Vertical Power
system.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Dear Listers,
Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm, RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the first time!
The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked as expected.
The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase in the amount of
available Up trim, and a decrease in the upper RPM limit on the Hartzell prop.
After a smooth takeoff, I climbed out and circled the airport at about three
to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits then came around and landed
making a nice three-point landing with no bounce. The plane handled excellent
and the power from the IO-390 and the Hartzell can only be experienced to be
believed! What a great combination!
I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for producing such
an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List friends for their
help and assistance during the project. And of course, a special thanks to
all of my personal friends that have come over and lent at hand during the construction
- I own you guys a ride and a $100 hamburger when I get the Phase 1
time flown off!
Probably in the Fall or Winter some time, plan to take it in for painting. I'm
planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegant golden trim
with a nice clear coat.
For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is 100% worth
the time and effort you put into the project. That first flight will be the
experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon forget!
Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the engine, panel,
and interior. Below, I've listed the system highlights.
Build Hours: 2457 Hours
Build Time: 23 Months
Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
Governor: PCU5000
Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
Steam Gauges: NONE!
Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual Magnetometers
Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX & XM Module For Kenwood DNX-8120
Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim Module
Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
Radio: Garmin SL-30
Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
and receive calls through headsets)
Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
Carpet: Custom design - Cut & Sewn by Classic Aero
Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve & PSI
Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door/Baggage Locks |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
If you are using a keyed ignition switch, you can special order from ACS a switch
and three door/baggage locks all keyed alike. A little more expensive to special
order, but I really like having only one key for everything.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296898#296898
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Where I come from they "that sure is purty!"
> Date: Wed=2C 5 May 2010 18:27:08 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos!
>
>
> Dear Listers=2C
>
> Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm=2C RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the
first time! The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked a
s expected. The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase in
the amount of available Up trim=2C and a decrease in the upper RPM limit on
the Hartzell prop. After a smooth takeoff=2C I climbed out and circled the
airport at about three to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits then
came around and landed making a nice three-point landing with no bounce. T
he plane handled excellent and the power from the IO-390 and the Hartzell c
an only be experienced to be believed! What a great combination!
>
> I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for produci
ng such an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List friends
for their help and assistance during the project. And of course=2C a specia
l thanks to all of my personal friends that have come over and lent at hand
during the construction - I own you guys a ride and a $100 hamburger when
I get the Phase 1 time flown off!
>
> Probably in the Fall or Winter some time=2C plan to take it in for painti
ng. I'm planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegan
t golden trim with a nice clear coat.
>
> For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is 100
% worth the time and effort you put into the project. That first flight wil
l be the experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon forget!
>
> Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the eng
ine=2C panel=2C and interior. Below=2C I've listed the system highlights.
>
> Build Hours: 2457 Hours
> Build Time: 23 Months
> Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
> Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
> Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
> Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
> Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
> Governor: PCU5000
> Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
> Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
> Steam Gauges: NONE!
> Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual Magnetomet
ers
> Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX & XM Module For Kenwood DNX-8120
> Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim Module
> Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
> GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
> Radio: Garmin SL-30
> Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
> Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
> Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
> XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
> Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
> and receive calls through headsets)
> Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
> Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
> Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
> Carpet: Custom design - Cut & Sewn by Classic Aero
> Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve & PSI
> Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
And looks like VP-200 should be on the list below as the main bus. :) I
am planning on one when I get to the panel. I'd be curious as to your
opinions both on the install and first flight of the VP-200.
-Sean #40303
On 5/5/10 8:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm, RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the first
time! The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked as expected.
The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase in the amount
of available Up trim, and a decrease in the upper RPM limit on the Hartzell prop.
After a smooth takeoff, I climbed out and circled the airport at about three
to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits then came around and landed
making a nice three-point landing with no bounce. The plane handled excellent
and the power from the IO-390 and the Hartzell can only be experienced to be
believed! What a great combination!
>
> I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for producing such
an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List friends for their
help and assistance during the project. And of course, a special thanks to
all of my personal friends that have come over and lent at hand during the construction
- I own you guys a ride and a $100 hamburger when I get the Phase
1 time flown off!
>
> Probably in the Fall or Winter some time, plan to take it in for painting. I'm
planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegant golden
trim with a nice clear coat.
>
> For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is 100% worth
the time and effort you put into the project. That first flight will be
the experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon forget!
>
> Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the engine,
panel, and interior. Below, I've listed the system highlights.
>
> Build Hours: 2457 Hours
> Build Time: 23 Months
> Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
> Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
> Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
> Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
> Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
> Governor: PCU5000
> Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
> Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
> Steam Gauges: NONE!
> Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual Magnetometers
> Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX& XM Module For Kenwood DNX-8120
> Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim Module
> Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
> GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
> Radio: Garmin SL-30
> Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
> Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
> Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
> XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
> Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
> and receive calls through headsets)
> Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
> Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
> Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
> Carpet: Custom design - Cut& Sewn by Classic Aero
> Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve& PSI
> Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flight
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door/Baggage Locks |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
Mike,
I own a hardware store with a resident locksmith and a laarge inventory of
"Cam Locks" also known as vending machine locks. I would suggest however
that you go to a local locksmith to buy them because the lock cams may need
adjustment etc to suit your particular installation, also, he will be able
to set up all three locks with the same key eliminating the nusiance of
careing 3 different keys. If you need more info, call me @ 920 619 6968.
Good Luck
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 6:35 PM, Michael Schipper wrote:
> >
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has solved this problem: I am trying to find three
> door locks, one for the baggage door and one each for the main doors. Spruce
> sells a set of two, but I'm not sure if these can be re-keyed. I'd like for
> all three locks to use the same key if possible.
>
> By the way, my ignition will not have a key as it uses the Vertical Power
> system.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Mike Schipper
> #40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door/Baggage Locks |
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
Thanks to Dick and everyone else who responded.
So "Cam Lock" is the official name for these things, huh? Now that I know what
they are called I did a search on McMaster-Carr and found a nice selection. They
can be ordered with the same key number.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cam-locks/
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
On May 6, 2010, at 7:45 AM, Richard Martin wrote:
> Mike,
> I own a hardware store with a resident locksmith and a laarge inventory of "Cam
Locks" also known as vending machine locks. I would suggest however that you
go to a local locksmith to buy them because the lock cams may need adjustment
etc to suit your particular installation, also, he will be able to set up all
three locks with the same key eliminating the nusiance of careing 3 different
keys. If you need more info, call me @ 920 619 6968.
> Good Luck
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Door/Baggage Locks |
I got mine from Lowes or Home depot, don't remember which. Just match the numbers
on the package for keyed alike. I think I spent less than $20 for all three.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 7:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door/Baggage Locks
Hello all,
I'm wondering if anyone has solved this problem: I am trying to find three door
locks, one for the baggage door and one each for the main doors. Spruce sells
a set of two, but I'm not sure if these can be re-keyed. I'd like for all three
locks to use the same key if possible.
By the way, my ignition will not have a key as it uses the Vertical Power system.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power VP-200 |
At 05:38 AM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>And looks like VP-200 should be on the list below as the main bus. :) I am planning
on one when I get to the panel. I'd be curious as to your opinions both
on the install and first flight of the VP-200.
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>On 5/5/10 8:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
I would highly recommend the VP-200. Installation is very nice as the big red
box has all of the wires for each circuit. You simply program each wire for the
type of device and expected load. The device is named accordingly, for example
"Strobes", and shows up on the main LCD display.
Operationally, each mode of flight, for example "Taxi, Run Up, Takeoff, Cruse,
Landing, etc.) is programmed into the VP-200. You specify which devices you want
on and off during each mode of flight. The VP-200 can automatically detect
each mode of flight and will automatically switch on/off the devices for the
given mode of flight as you have preprogrammed them. You can at anytime manually
override the automatic setting of a given circuit if necessary.
Basically, you turn the VP-200 on, and fly the plane. All of your electrical needs
are handled automatically.
Factory support has be excellent.
I wouldn't build another airplane without a Vertical Power electrical system.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Phase 1 Test Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door/Baggage Locks |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Also be aware that some cam locks are longer than those sold by Van's or ACS, and
will not fit within the depth of the baggage door.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296941#296941
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
WOW! REALLY NICE
Bill "served by the list" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power VP-200 |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I agree completely!
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On May 6, 2010, at 12:29 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> At 05:38 AM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>>
>> And looks like VP-200 should be on the list below as the main bus. :) I am
planning on one when I get to the panel. I'd be curious as to your opinions both
on the install and first flight of the VP-200.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> On 5/5/10 8:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>>
>>> Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
>
>
> I would highly recommend the VP-200. Installation is very nice as the big red
box has all of the wires for each circuit. You simply program each wire for
the type of device and expected load. The device is named accordingly, for example
"Strobes", and shows up on the main LCD display.
>
> Operationally, each mode of flight, for example "Taxi, Run Up, Takeoff, Cruse,
Landing, etc.) is programmed into the VP-200. You specify which devices you
want on and off during each mode of flight. The VP-200 can automatically detect
each mode of flight and will automatically switch on/off the devices for the
given mode of flight as you have preprogrammed them. You can at anytime manually
override the automatic setting of a given circuit if necessary.
>
> Basically, you turn the VP-200 on, and fly the plane. All of your electrical
needs are handled automatically.
>
> Factory support has be excellent.
>
> I wouldn't build another airplane without a Vertical Power electrical system.
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Phase 1 Test Flying
> <2010.01.07 - RV-8 - Front Baggage Area Complete (1).jpg><2009.08.22 - RV-8 -
Primary Alternator Installation & Wiring (12).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Did I see that right? 3 EFIS screens, a VP-200, and a single COM radio?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On May 5, 2010, at 9:27 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Monday May 2 2010 at 1:15pm, RV-8 #82880 N998RV took to the air for the first
time! The first flight was about 30 minutes and all systems worked as expected.
The only post-flight adjustments necessary were an increase in the amount
of available Up trim, and a decrease in the upper RPM limit on the Hartzell prop.
After a smooth takeoff, I climbed out and circled the airport at about three
to four thousand feet for a couple of circuits then came around and landed
making a nice three-point landing with no bounce. The plane handled excellent
and the power from the IO-390 and the Hartzell can only be experienced to be
believed! What a great combination!
>
> I want to thank Van's for designing such a great aircraft and for producing such
an outstanding kit. I would also like to thank all my List friends for their
help and assistance during the project. And of course, a special thanks to
all of my personal friends that have come over and lent at hand during the construction
- I own you guys a ride and a $100 hamburger when I get the Phase
1 time flown off!
>
> Probably in the Fall or Winter some time, plan to take it in for painting. I'm
planning on a Candy Apply Red with some very understated and elegant golden
trim with a nice clear coat.
>
> For all those that are still building - keep at it! The end result is 100% worth
the time and effort you put into the project. That first flight will be
the experience of a lifetime and something you won't soon forget!
>
> Attached are some pictures from the first flight and few shots of the engine,
panel, and interior. Below, I've listed the system highlights.
>
> Build Hours: 2457 Hours
> Build Time: 23 Months
> Kit: Van's RV-8 QB
> Engine: Lycoming IO-390 210hp
> Ignition: Slick Mags w/ Slick-Start Module
> Exhaust: Vetterman IO-390 4-into-4 System (Sounds Great!)
> Prop: Hartzell 72" Constant Speed
> Governor: PCU5000
> Alternator Primary: 60a Plain Power Belt Drive
> Alternator Secondary: 20a B&C Direct Drive w/ B&C External Regulator
> Steam Gauges: NONE!
> Flight Instruments: Triple 6.5" GRT HX / Dual GRT AHRSs / Dual Magnetometers
> Realtime Weather: XM Module For GRT HX & XM Module For Kenwood DNX-8120
> Autopilot: TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV Two Axis w/ Auto Trim Module
> Fuel Flow: Matronics FuelChec DX
> GPS: Dual GRT Modules (Garmin engine)
> Radio: Garmin SL-30
> Transponder: Garmin GTX-327
> Electrical System: Vertical Power VP-200
> Entertainment: Kenwood DNX-8120 with 7" LCD / Psgr 7" Remote LCD
> XM Radio / DVD / 64GB MP3 / HD AM-FM / XM Weather /
> Full Bluetooth integration with Blackberry (make
> and receive calls through headsets)
> Intercom: PS3000 Stereo
> Headphones: Bose Aviation Headset X
> Interior: Classic Aero - All Leather over All Comferfoam
> Carpet: Custom design - Cut & Sewn by Classic Aero
> Oxygen System: Mountain High O2D2 w/ Electronic Tank Valve & PSI
> Seat Belts: Hooker 5-Point Harness
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Test Flight
> <2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (1).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test
Flight (2).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (3).jpg><2010.05.02
- RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (4).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (5).jpg><2010.05.02
- RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (6).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV
Test Flight (7).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (8).jpg><2010.05.02
- RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (9).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight
(10).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8 - N998RV Test Flight (11).jpg><2010.05.02 - RV-8
- N998RV Test Flight (12).jpg><2009.11.12 - RV-8 - Engine Baffling Powercoated
And Completed (13).jpg><2009.11.12 - RV-8 - Engine Baffling Powercoated And
Completed (10).jpg><2009.08.12 - RV-8 - Leather Upholstery Arrives (7).jpg><2009.08.12
- RV-8 - Leather Upholstery Arrives (9).jpg><2010.01.14 - RV-8 - Final
Instrument Panel Installation (1).jpg><2010.01.14 - RV-8 - Final Instrument
Panel Installation (2).jpg><2010.01.14 - RV-8 - Final Instrument Panel Installation
(3).jpg><2010.01.14 - RV-8 - Final Instrument Panel Installation (6).jpg><2010.01.18
- RV-8 - Canopy Frame Installation Complete (5).jpg><2010.01.20
- RV-8 - Sliding Canopy Installation Complete (10).jpg><2010.01.20 - RV-8 -
Sliding Canopy Installation Complete (7).jpg><2010.02.27 - RV-8 - Spark Plug &
Ignition Harness Installation (18).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Real men don't need a radio to fly! An spare EFIS, on the other hand, maybe...
Do you see a place for another COM on my panel?
:-)
Matt
At 11:04 AM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>Did I see that right? 3 EFIS screens, a VP-200, and a single COM radio?
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Matt,
Congratulations on your first flight. The plane looks great and your
have done an incredible job of detailing the construction process. I'm
sure it will be a great asset for other -8 builders, like myself.
Per Jesse's comment, the only thing that you may find desirable in the
future is a second COM radio. Not from a reliability standpoint but it
terms of situational awareness. I am currently flying a -4 with a very
basic VFR panel (496, 1 COM, steam gauges, wing leveler) and the only
thing I really feel is missing is another radio. There are so many times
that I wish I could be monitoring another frequency (or contacting FSS)
while dealing with ATC. Its a constant issue and adding another radio &
simple audio panel is at the top of my to do list.
Again, great job on the -8.
Doug Morrison
RV-4 N818WW
RV-8 N666NJ (Panel / FWF)
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Real men don't need a radio to fly! An spare EFIS, on the other hand, maybe...
>
> Do you see a place for another COM on my panel?
>
> :-)
>
> Matt
>
>
> At 11:04 AM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Did I see that right? 3 EFIS screens, a VP-200, and a single COM radio?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter James" <RVPilot(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Leg Fairing Tip |
To my RV-Ten'r Colleagues -
I tend to stress about things that are not as complicated as they seem. In
this case, how to simplify the alignment of the gear leg fairings?
Per Van's plans, you need to create center lines, artificial center lines,
Points, A, B, and X. Huh? What? This looks tough. Well it's not if you
are willing to spend $30 on something you can leave in your shop and use
another day. Here is what I did.
1. Drop a plumb bob from the front and rear of the plane, per plans,
and snap a center line.
2. From that center line, use a tape measure to measure out 27" from
that center line on both sides at the front and at the rear of the plane.
(Note: 27" was a perfect measurement for me!)
3. Snap a chalk line, per plans on both sides.
4. Here's the expensive part - Buy a laser like the one pictured for
less than $30 - mine came from Home Depot.
5. Place the Laser at the front of the chalk line. Turn it on- Level
the laser per the bubble guides on the laser itself.- and voila!!! A laser
mark on the step, and the gear leg fairing IN THE RIGHT PLANE, PERFECTLY
VERTICAL, and PERFECTLY PARALLEL to the center line. No plumb-bobbing from
the step or fairing required!
6. Stretch the strings - per plans off the bottom of the step where the
laser light hits, around the gear leg fairing, where the laser light hits.
Hold the string in place with small strips of electrical tape in a cross
fashion per pictures attached.
7. Measure up from the floor to both points of light. If the height
does not match, adjust the laser left and right of the displaced center line
of the chalk line. Keep in mind the step itself is level to the floor, so
moving left and right of the chalk line moves the distance to the floor up
and down as you move across the leg fairing. It's easy to see if you are
parallel to the line, as you can measure to and from the chalk line to the
laser line. If none of this makes sense, it will be readily apparent once
you set it all up.
8. I got a fabulous/near perfect result, with very little effort in
just a couple of minutes. 27" off centerline was exactly what I needed.
9. The attached pictures have a stool at the end of the chalk line in
order to show where the light is lined up. All you have to do is put a
small object on the chalk line to make it more readily visible when making
the initial laser alignment.
10. Note that I drilled holes and cleco'd the fairing onto the wheel
pant. I colored a black sharpie dot on the cleco holes prior to laying up
the wet glass layers. The black dots make it simple to find the cleco holes
through the wet layers. Once the wet layers are on, use a very sharp pick
or awl to separate the weave BEFORE you try and put the cleco in, otherwise,
the cleco will grab a fiber and pull bubbles into the layup. I placed wax
paper down between the pant and between the rear of the fairing. Worked
great!
11. I shot the pictures in a darkened shop so the results would be more
apparent in the pictures. The laser works fine in a normally lit shop.
12. ..and no, when the police came slowly driving by, I had NOT been
shining the laser at airplanes..only the neighbors house a block away!
Hope this helps!
Pete James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
Well, at least the SL-30 allows you to monitor two frequencies at once. The
frequency in the active window has priority, but you can monitor the freq in
the standby window at the same time. I use that feature all the time after
I land at Ogden. A lot of time only one controller is working and after
landing they give you taxi directions and request you monitor ground....all
the real action is happening on the tower frequency......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Morrison
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos!
Matt,
Congratulations on your first flight. The plane looks great and your
have done an incredible job of detailing the construction process. I'm
sure it will be a great asset for other -8 builders, like myself.
Per Jesse's comment, the only thing that you may find desirable in the
future is a second COM radio. Not from a reliability standpoint but it
terms of situational awareness. I am currently flying a -4 with a very
basic VFR panel (496, 1 COM, steam gauges, wing leveler) and the only
thing I really feel is missing is another radio. There are so many times
that I wish I could be monitoring another frequency (or contacting FSS)
while dealing with ATC. Its a constant issue and adding another radio &
simple audio panel is at the top of my to do list.
Again, great job on the -8.
Doug Morrison
RV-4 N818WW
RV-8 N666NJ (Panel / FWF)
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Real men don't need a radio to fly! An spare EFIS, on the other hand,
maybe...
>
> Do you see a place for another COM on my panel?
>
> :-)
>
> Matt
>
>
> At 11:04 AM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Did I see that right? 3 EFIS screens, a VP-200, and a single COM radio?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos! |
How do you configure the SL-30 to monitor on the standby frequency?
Matt
At 07:53 PM 5/6/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>Well, at least the SL-30 allows you to monitor two frequencies at once. The
>frequency in the active window has priority, but you can monitor the freq in
>the standby window at the same time. I use that feature all the time after
>I land at Ogden. A lot of time only one controller is working and after
>landing they give you taxi directions and request you monitor ground....all
>the real action is happening on the tower frequency......
>
>Rene'
>801-721-6080
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Morrison
>Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 8:21 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-8 N998RV First Flight - Pilot Report And Photos!
>
>
>Matt,
>
>Congratulations on your first flight. The plane looks great and your
>have done an incredible job of detailing the construction process. I'm
>sure it will be a great asset for other -8 builders, like myself.
>
>Per Jesse's comment, the only thing that you may find desirable in the
>future is a second COM radio. Not from a reliability standpoint but it
>terms of situational awareness. I am currently flying a -4 with a very
>basic VFR panel (496, 1 COM, steam gauges, wing leveler) and the only
>thing I really feel is missing is another radio. There are so many times
>that I wish I could be monitoring another frequency (or contacting FSS)
>while dealing with ATC. Its a constant issue and adding another radio &
>simple audio panel is at the top of my to do list.
>
>Again, great job on the -8.
>
>Doug Morrison
>RV-4 N818WW
>RV-8 N666NJ (Panel / FWF)
>
>
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>> Real men don't need a radio to fly! An spare EFIS, on the other hand,
>maybe...
>>
>> Do you see a place for another COM on my panel?
>>
>> :-)
>>
April 17, 2010 - May 06, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gl