RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gn
May 24, 2010 - June 09, 2010
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick and Sandra Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
Ok, thx Rick. I kind of wondered about those brackets. I probably will
just leave them detached from the cover plates until I start rigging, which
appears to be a ways down the road.
I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim O's web
site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must be really slow
or????? How much time did other builders have at this stage?
I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still want it
done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
All opinions appreciated.
Rick Lark
#40956
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)cox.net>
Cc: "Rick and Sandra Lark"
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: step drills etc
> Rick,
>
> Don't use rivets at all to attach those brackets, use machine screws and
> stopnuts. You will need to rotate the brackets when rigging the trim, just
> bolt them up when you have them adjusted.
>
> I'm not sure what the problem with the step drill except you ARE drilling
> an hole first before using the drill right? They don't start holes very
> well.
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
> Annual time!!
> ---- Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
>> Hi all
>>
>> I'm just about done with my elevator construction and while I'm waiting
>> for the prosealed trailing edges to set up I went to rivet the trim cable
>> attachment brackets to the cover plates. The plans call out for LP4-3
>> rivets. I've bought the Cleveland Tools brackets but I can't figure out
>> why solid rivets wouldn't be used here. Can anyone shed some light on
>> why I need to use LP4-3's?
>>
>> Question 2: Can anyone tell me how to properly use a step drill? I've
>> been a woodworker for more than 30 years and have never had a hand tool I
>> couldn't figure out how to use. I've now bought 2 different sized drills
>> thinking the first one was a dud, but can't seem to get the newer one to
>> work worth a d**n either. Case in point, when I tried to drill out the
>> .060" front elevator spar for the snap bushing, I would have bent the
>> spar before I forced it to drill the proper sizes hole. What am I
>> missing????
>>
>> Regards, Rick
>>
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I stopped trying to track time, oh, around doing the vertical stab.
Work goes a lot faster when you don't waste time tracking it. I know
of at least one kit that is below ser. no 40050 that is no where near
putting the major parts together, much less finishing. Enjoy the
build, satisfy your own quality requirements, and it will be done when
it is done.
Kelly
40866
Fuselage/fuel system
On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 7:56 PM, Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
.
>
> I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
> complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim O's web
> site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must be really slow
> or????? How much time did other builders have at this stage?
>
> I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still want it
> done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
>
> All opinions appreciated.
>
> Rick Lark
> #40956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
My experience with the HF strep bits is that they work fine for x holes
(x being dependent on the material drilled). Then suddenly, they seem to
wear through a very thin, hardened surface on the bit, and become
completely non-functioning junk.
Having said that, the HF bits are a good value (!!!). I forget the
prices but you can get a set of 3 bits for about the 1/3 the cost of 1
quality bit. I'm on my second set having worn 2 bits out but my '10 is
close to finished (did I say that?). I have a quality bit which I'm
saving for any more firewall SS holes but there's little other steel on
the aircraft. I used the HF bits on aluminum and composite and I'm
prepared to ruin 1 or 2 more bits if necessary.
To use the HF bits, you just have to be ready to chuck them as soon as
they don't seem to be cutting. But on sale, they are really cheap and I
have room to store them. YMMV.
Bill
Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
> Hmmm....Yes you're right Carl. Both drills were cheap Harbor Freight
> type drills. I don't usually go the cheap route when it comes to
> tools. Not sure now why I even tried. I'll look for a "good" drill. Thx
> Rick
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Carl Froehlich
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, May 24, 2010 8:33 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: step drills etc
>
> I would guess you might be using the Harbor Freight type step
> drill. They tend to make rough, less than round holes. I bought a
> set figuring I could save a few dollars. Big mistake.
>
> Try a Unibit brand step drill. Smooth hole every time. If your
> local Lowes/Home Depot should have them. If not, Cleaveland Tools
> does: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/products.asp?dept=21
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (540 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (systems install)
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
> and Sandra Lark
> *Sent:* Monday, May 24, 2010 7:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: step drills etc
>
> Hi all
>
> I'm just about done with my elevator construction and while I'm
> waiting for the prosealed trailing edges to set up I went to rivet
> the trim cable attachment brackets to the cover plates. The plans
> call out for LP4-3 rivets. I've bought the Cleveland Tools
> brackets but I can't figure out why solid rivets wouldn't be used
> here. Can anyone shed some light on why I need to use LP4-3's?
>
> Question 2: Can anyone tell me how to properly use a step drill?
> I've been a woodworker for more than 30 years and have never had a
> hand tool I couldn't figure out how to use. I've now bought 2
> different sized drills thinking the first one was a dud, but can't
> seem to get the newer one to work worth a d**n either. Case in
> point, when I tried to drill out the .060" front elevator spar for
> the snap bushing, I would have bent the spar before I forced it to
> drill the proper sizes hole. What am I missing????
>
> Regards, Rick
>
> #40956
>
> Southampton, Ont
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
Enjoy the process. My Dad got sick and passed away during my
build...during that time all I knew was I couldn't park my car in the
garage because of my "project" which was nothing in comparison to my
life at the time My total build time is about 2400 hours, or 5 years 4
months and 23 days. Build time is like a fingerprint...no two are the
same. Perserverance is the best ribbon they can give you at Osh....
Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On May 24, 2010, at 7:56 PM, "Rick and Sandra Lark"
wrote:
> >
>
> Ok, thx Rick. I kind of wondered about those brackets. I probably
> will just leave them detached from the cover plates until I start
> rigging, which appears to be a ways down the road.
>
> I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
> complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim
> O's web site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must
> be really slow or????? How much time did other builders have at
> this stage?
>
> I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still
> want it done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
>
> All opinions appreciated.
>
> Rick Lark
> #40956
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <ricksked(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Cc: "Rick and Sandra Lark"
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:16 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: step drills etc
>
>
>> Rick,
>>
>> Don't use rivets at all to attach those brackets, use machine
>> screws and stopnuts. You will need to rotate the brackets when
>> rigging the trim, just bolt them up when you have them adjusted.
>>
>> I'm not sure what the problem with the step drill except you ARE
>> drilling an hole first before using the drill right? They don't
>> start holes very well.
>>
>> Rick Sked
>> N246RS
>> Annual time!!
>> ---- Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
>>> Hi all
>>>
>>> I'm just about done with my elevator construction and while I'm
>>> waiting for the prosealed trailing edges to set up I went to rivet
>>> the trim cable attachment brackets to the cover plates. The plans
>>> call out for LP4-3 rivets. I've bought the Cleveland Tools
>>> brackets but I can't figure out why solid rivets wouldn't be used
>>> here. Can anyone shed some light on why I need to use LP4-3's?
>>>
>>> Question 2: Can anyone tell me how to properly use a step drill?
>>> I've been a woodworker for more than 30 years and have never had a
>>> hand tool I couldn't figure out how to use. I've now bought 2
>>> different sized drills thinking the first one was a dud, but can't
>>> seem to get the newer one to work worth a d**n either. Case in
>>> point, when I tried to drill out the .060" front elevator spar for
>>> the snap bushing, I would have bent the spar before I forced it to
>>> drill the proper sizes hole. What am I missing????
>>>
>>> Regards, Rick
>>>
>>> #40956
>>> Southampton, Ont
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
I watched this carefully...
http://www.airspacemag.com/multimedia/videos/Go-For-Launch.html
.... and I noticed a lot of people standing around with their hands in
their pockets. I can relate. Although my project is a one man effort
(with critical assistance from my rivet bucker and life partner Alicia),
I spend plenty of time standing around admiring the kit, my progress, my
lack of progress, thinking about future progress, smoking a cigar,
watching the Waco depart, and otherwise scritching my cat. These are
the best of times.
Now, I have to admit that I have a Maule to fly when the mood strikes,
but I increasingly find myself forcing the issue just to maintain some
proficiency (or to get from A to B). Fact is, standing around with my
hands in my pockets trying to remember what I planned to do is a lot
more fun.. sort of.
Enjoy the process and remember it's not work.
Bill "trying to get comfortable with my progress as a 4th anniversary
approaches" Watson
Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
> ....snippetysnip
> I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
> complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim O's
> web site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must be
> really slow or????? How much time did other builders have at this
> stage?
>
> I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still want
> it done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
>
> All opinions appreciated.
>
> Rick Lark
> #40956
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Rick
Everyone builds at different speeds. I suspect I am about the same time hours wise
as you. So dont worry about it take your time pay close attention to the
details and you will be fine.
John G. Cumins
40864 Mounted elevators to horz stab Emp almost complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick and Sandra Lark
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: step drills etc
Ok, thx Rick. I kind of wondered about those brackets. I probably will
just leave them detached from the cover plates until I start rigging, which
appears to be a ways down the road.
I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim O's web
site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must be really slow
or????? How much time did other builders have at this stage?
I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still want it
done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
All opinions appreciated.
Rick Lark
#40956
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked(at)cox.net>
Cc: "Rick and Sandra Lark"
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: step drills etc
> Rick,
>
> Don't use rivets at all to attach those brackets, use machine screws and
> stopnuts. You will need to rotate the brackets when rigging the trim, just
> bolt them up when you have them adjusted.
>
> I'm not sure what the problem with the step drill except you ARE drilling
> an hole first before using the drill right? They don't start holes very
> well.
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
> Annual time!!
> ---- Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
>> Hi all
>>
>> I'm just about done with my elevator construction and while I'm waiting
>> for the prosealed trailing edges to set up I went to rivet the trim cable
>> attachment brackets to the cover plates. The plans call out for LP4-3
>> rivets. I've bought the Cleveland Tools brackets but I can't figure out
>> why solid rivets wouldn't be used here. Can anyone shed some light on
>> why I need to use LP4-3's?
>>
>> Question 2: Can anyone tell me how to properly use a step drill? I've
>> been a woodworker for more than 30 years and have never had a hand tool I
>> couldn't figure out how to use. I've now bought 2 different sized drills
>> thinking the first one was a dud, but can't seem to get the newer one to
>> work worth a d**n either. Case in point, when I tried to drill out the
>> .060" front elevator spar for the snap bushing, I would have bent the
>> spar before I forced it to drill the proper sizes hole. What am I
>> missing????
>>
>> Regards, Rick
>>
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
Here here. Approaching 5 years and I am just finishing the wings. Good
part is that avionics and after market "stuff" just keeps getting better
the longer it takes me. Bad part is that kit, engine and prop prices
keep going up the longer it takes me. :)
-Sean #40303
http://rv10.stephensville.com
On 5/24/10 10:58 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> Enjoy the process. My Dad got sick and passed away during my
> build...during that time all I knew was I couldn't park my car in the
> garage because of my "project" which was nothing in comparison to my
> life at the time My total build time is about 2400 hours, or 5 years 4
> months and 23 days. Build time is like a fingerprint...no two are the
> same. Perserverance is the best ribbon they can give you at Osh....
>
> Rick
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2010, at 7:56 PM, "Rick and Sandra Lark"
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ok, thx Rick. I kind of wondered about those brackets. I probably
>> will just leave them detached from the cover plates until I start
>> rigging, which appears to be a ways down the road.
>>
>> I have to ask another question. At this point (elevators just about
>> complete), I have 300 man hrs into this project. I noticed on Tim
>> O's web site, he had about 170 hrs at this same point..... I must be
>> really slow or????? How much time did other builders have at this
>> stage?
>>
>> I don't want to set a record as the slowest RV10 build, but still
>> want it done correctly. Maybe I'm a little anal retentive??
>>
>> All opinions appreciated.
>>
>> Rick Lark
>> #40956
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <ricksked(at)cox.net>
>> To:
>> Cc: "Rick and Sandra Lark"
>> Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 7:16 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: step drills etc
>>
>>
>>> Rick,
>>>
>>> Don't use rivets at all to attach those brackets, use machine screws
>>> and stopnuts. You will need to rotate the brackets when rigging the
>>> trim, just bolt them up when you have them adjusted.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure what the problem with the step drill except you ARE
>>> drilling an hole first before using the drill right? They don't
>>> start holes very well.
>>>
>>> Rick Sked
>>> N246RS
>>> Annual time!!
>>> ---- Rick and Sandra Lark wrote:
>>>> Hi all
>>>>
>>>> I'm just about done with my elevator construction and while I'm
>>>> waiting for the prosealed trailing edges to set up I went to rivet
>>>> the trim cable attachment brackets to the cover plates. The plans
>>>> call out for LP4-3 rivets. I've bought the Cleveland Tools
>>>> brackets but I can't figure out why solid rivets wouldn't be used
>>>> here. Can anyone shed some light on why I need to use LP4-3's?
>>>>
>>>> Question 2: Can anyone tell me how to properly use a step drill?
>>>> I've been a woodworker for more than 30 years and have never had a
>>>> hand tool I couldn't figure out how to use. I've now bought 2
>>>> different sized drills thinking the first one was a dud, but can't
>>>> seem to get the newer one to work worth a d**n either. Case in
>>>> point, when I tried to drill out the .060" front elevator spar for
>>>> the snap bushing, I would have bent the spar before I forced it to
>>>> drill the proper sizes hole. What am I missing????
>>>>
>>>> Regards, Rick
>>>>
>>>> #40956
>>>> Southampton, Ont
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
I have just over 310 hours in less than 2 years, most of it from a grass
runway.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
It depends alot on how you track time. I just write start and end time right on
the plans as I check off the steps. At the end of the section go back and add
the highlighted times up. My time starts when I am actually working with tools/parts
in my hand. I don't count ordering, a picture every now and then, lunch/supper
breaks, or reading plans before work starts.
It also depends on how much you spent on tools up front, shop conditions, your
mechanical ability and comfort using tools that can hurt if not used correctly.
Like most said...just enjoy the build, hang some pics of finished rv's/trip
pics like I did for motivation, fly/hang out with at least one other builder/rv
owner for motivation which I do, and save as much $$$ as possible for the next
piece but lastly don't forget the family. My wonderful wife of 21 yrs is a
really good riveter now...only had to drill out 2 or 3 so far. My 10 & 7 yr olds
are good at clecoing and placing rivets for Dad.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298871#298871
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: step drills etc |
Guys
Thx for the advise and words of encouragement concerning build times.
I really am enjoying building this aircraft. Maybe that's why I'm so slow,
I'm savoring it too much ;-)
Tim you are one lucky man to have a spouse that mowed the lawn while you
built. Having said that I don't think I'd trust my wife with the mower
anyway.
I will keep working away at it, and as someone said, "it'll be done when
it's done".
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s |
It's time for another class on Composites for RV-10s. I'm considering July
17 and 18, 2010, but at this point I have some flexibility for later dates
as well.
If anyone is interested in having their cabin top fitted to their fuselage
during the class, free of charge, please let me know ASAP.
You'll get enough from the class to be able to dive in to all the composites
on the -10. Others who've taken the course say it's very worthwhile.
And, once you're done with the class, you'll have as much telephone support
as you need once you start getting sticky (we tell you how to minimize that,
too!).
Time and weather permitting, I'll do my best to give anyone interested a
ride in my RV-10.
Here's the description:
*************************************
This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques
used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and
processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and
other composite parts. You will receive hands-on training to identify and
use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies
will be available to view.
*Who:*
Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering
and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at
AirCrafters for 6 years and spends nearly all his time working with
composites.
I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I
have finished the composite sections of my personal RV-10 project, along
with many other composite and aluminum projects. I received my BS in
Aeronautics from San Jose State.
*When:*
Tentatively July 17 & 18 (Saturday & Sunday)
8AM-4PM Saturday
8AM-3PM Sunday
*Where:*
AirCrafters
Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141
www.AirCrafters.aero <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
Class size is limited to 15 builders
$350 payable by cash, check or credit card
*Please call or email to register, even if you have emailed, expressing
interst in the last few days. 50% deposit is required before July
2nd.*Balance due before class starts.
The nearest major airport is San Jose International, a one-hour drive to
KWVI.
Best lodging is the Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the Pilot
Discount. Aircraft parking is available at the class site. Please call if we
can help with logistics.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s |
Dave, I can make those dates, or dates after OSH, most anytime in
August. Thanks for pulling this together.
Kelly
On 5/26/2010 4:30 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> It's time for another class on Composites for RV-10s. I'm considering
> July 17 and 18, 2010, but at this point I have some flexibility for
> later dates as well.
>
> If anyone is interested in having their cabin top fitted to their
> fuselage during the class, free of charge, please let me know ASAP.
>
> You'll get enough from the class to be able to dive in to all the
> composites on the -10. Others who've taken the course say it's very
> worthwhile.
>
> And, once you're done with the class, you'll have as much telephone
> support as you need once you start getting sticky (we tell you how to
> minimize that, too!).
>
> Time and weather permitting, I'll do my best to give anyone interested
> a ride in my RV-10.
>
> Here's the description:
>
> *************************************
>
> This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and
> techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct
> materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl,
> spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will receive
> hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials.
> Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to view.
>
> *Who:*
> Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical
> Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many
> years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends nearly all
> his time working with composites.
>
> I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA,
> and I have finished the composite sections of my personal RV-10
> project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I
> received my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State.
>
> *When:*
> Tentatively July 17 & 18 (Saturday & Sunday)
> 8AM-4PM Saturday
> 8AM-3PM Sunday
>
> *Where:*
> AirCrafters
> Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141
> www.AirCrafters.aero <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
>
> Class size is limited to 15 builders
> $350 payable by cash, check or credit card
> *Please call or email to register, even if you have emailed,
> expressing interst in the last few days. 50% deposit is required
> before July 2nd.* Balance due before class starts.
>
> The nearest major airport is San Jose International, a one-hour drive
> to KWVI.
> Best lodging is the Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the
> Pilot Discount. Aircraft parking is available at the class site.
> Please call if we can help with logistics.
>
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s |
Count me in tentatively.........will talk to the wife.............next step
to send a check or what?
From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com
Date: Wed=2C 26 May 2010 16:30:11 -0700
Subject: RV10-List: Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s
It's time for another class on Composites for RV-10s. I'm considering July
17 and 18=2C 2010=2C but at this point I have some flexibility for later d
ates as well.
If anyone is interested in having their cabin top fitted to their fuselage
during the class=2C free of charge=2C please let me know ASAP.
You'll get enough from the class to be able to dive in to all the composite
s on the -10. Others who've taken the course say it's very worthwhile.
And=2C once you're done with the class=2C you'll have as much telephone sup
port as you need once you start getting sticky (we tell you how to minimize
that=2C too!).
Time and weather permitting=2C I'll do my best to give anyone interested a
ride in my RV-10.
Here's the description:
*************************************
This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques
used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and p
rocesses=2C fitting the composite top and doors=2C cowl=2C spinner=2C fairi
ngs=2C and other composite parts. You will receive hands-on training to ide
ntify and use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process
assemblies will be available to view.
Who:
Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering
and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked
at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends nearly all his time working with comp
osites.
I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA=2C and I
have finished the composite sections of my personal RV-10 project=2C along
with many other composite and aluminum projects. I received my BS in Aeron
autics from San Jose State.
When:
Tentatively July 17 & 18 (Saturday & Sunday)
8AM-4PM Saturday
8AM-3PM Sunday
Where:
AirCrafters
Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA 95076
831-722-9141
www.AirCrafters.aero
Class size is limited to 15 builders
$350 payable by cash=2C check or credit card
Please call or email to register=2C even if you have emailed=2C expressing
interst in the last few days. 50% deposit is required before July 2nd. Bala
nce due before class starts.
The nearest major airport is San Jose International=2C a one-hour drive to
KWVI.
Best lodging is the Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the Pilo
t Discount. Aircraft parking is available at the class site. Please call if
we can help with logistics.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville=2C CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s |
my dates are flex too as long as it doesn't run up against OSH..........I n
eed to work once in awhile.
> Date: Wed=2C 26 May 2010 20:08:24 -0700
> From: kellym(at)aviating.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s
>
>
> Dave=2C I can make those dates=2C or dates after OSH=2C most anytime in
> August. Thanks for pulling this together.
> Kelly
>
>
> On 5/26/2010 4:30 PM=2C Dave Saylor wrote:
> > It's time for another class on Composites for RV-10s. I'm considering
> > July 17 and 18=2C 2010=2C but at this point I have some flexibility for
> > later dates as well.
> >
> > If anyone is interested in having their cabin top fitted to their
> > fuselage during the class=2C free of charge=2C please let me know ASAP.
> >
> > You'll get enough from the class to be able to dive in to all the
> > composites on the -10. Others who've taken the course say it's very
> > worthwhile.
> >
> > And=2C once you're done with the class=2C you'll have as much telephone
> > support as you need once you start getting sticky (we tell you how to
> > minimize that=2C too!).
> >
> > Time and weather permitting=2C I'll do my best to give anyone intereste
d
> > a ride in my RV-10.
> >
> > Here's the description:
> >
> > *************************************
> >
> > This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and
> > techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct
> > materials and processes=2C fitting the composite top and doors=2C cowl
=2C
> > spinner=2C fairings=2C and other composite parts. You will receive
> > hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials.
> > Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to vi
ew.
> >
> > *Who:*
> > Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical
> > Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many
> > years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends nearly all
> > his time working with composites.
> >
> > I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA=2C
> > and I have finished the composite sections of my personal RV-10
> > project=2C along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I
> > received my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State.
> >
> > *When:*
> > Tentatively July 17 & 18 (Saturday & Sunday)
> > 8AM-4PM Saturday
> > 8AM-3PM Sunday
> >
> > *Where:*
> > AirCrafters
> > Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
> > 140 Aviation Way
> > Watsonville=2C CA 95076
> > 831-722-9141
> > www.AirCrafters.aero <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
> >
> > Class size is limited to 15 builders
> > $350 payable by cash=2C check or credit card
> > *Please call or email to register=2C even if you have emailed=2C
> > expressing interst in the last few days. 50% deposit is required
> > before July 2nd.* Balance due before class starts.
> >
> > The nearest major airport is San Jose International=2C a one-hour drive
> > to KWVI.
> > Best lodging is the Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the
> > Pilot Discount. Aircraft parking is available at the class site.
> > Please call if we can help with logistics.
> >
> >
> > Dave Saylor
> > AirCrafters LLC
> > 140 Aviation Way
> > Watsonville=2C CA 95076
> > 831-722-9141 Shop
> > 831-750-0284 Cell
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
There is a possibility that I'll be working the bay area that week. If
so, this could work out pretty well.
Phil
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever [mailto:roxianmike(at)msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 10:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s
my dates are flex too as long as it doesn't run up against
OSH..........I need to work once in awhile.
> Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 20:08:24 -0700
> From: kellym(at)aviating.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Upcoming class: Composites for RV-10s
>
>
> Dave, I can make those dates, or dates after OSH, most anytime in
> August. Thanks for pulling this together.
> Kelly
>
>
> On 5/26/2010 4:30 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> > It's time for another class on Composites for RV-10s. I'm
considering
> > July 17 and 18, 2010, but at this point I have some flexibility for
> > later dates as well.
> >
> > If anyone is interested in having their cabin top fitted to their
> > fuselage during the class, free of charge, please let me know ASAP.
> >
> > You'll get enough from the class to be able to dive in to all the
> > composites on the -10. Others who've taken the course say it's very
> > worthwhile.
> >
> > And, once you're done with the class, you'll have as much telephone
> > support as you need once you start getting sticky (we tell you how
to
> > minimize that, too!).
> >
> > Time and weather permitting, I'll do my best to give anyone
interested
> > a ride in my RV-10.
> >
> > Here's the description:
> >
> > *************************************
> >
> > This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and
> > techniques used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on
correct
> > materials and processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl,
> > spinner, fairings, and other composite parts. You will receive
> > hands-on training to identify and use all necessary materials.
> > Examples of completed and in-process assemblies will be available to
view.
> >
> > *Who:*
> > Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical
> > Engineering and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many
> > years. He has worked at AirCrafters for 6 years and spends nearly
all
> > his time working with composites.
> >
> > I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA,
> > and I have finished the composite sections of my personal RV-10
> > project, along with many other composite and aluminum projects. I
> > received my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State.
> >
> > *When:*
> > Tentatively July 17 & 18 (Saturday & Sunday)
> > 8AM-4PM Saturday
> > 8AM-3PM Sunday
> >
> > *Where:*
> > AirCrafters
> > Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
> > 140 Aviation Way
> > Watsonville, CA 95076
> > 831-722-9141
> > www.AirCrafters.aero <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
> >
> > Class size is limited to 15 builders
> > $350 payable by cash, check or credit card
> > *Please call or email to register, even if you have emailed,
> > expressing interst in the last few days. 50% deposit is required
> > before July 2nd.* Balance due before class starts.
> >
> > The nearest major airport is San Jose International, a one-hour
drive
> > to KWVI.
> > Best lodging is the Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for
the
> > Pilot Discount. Aircraft parking is available at the class site.
> > Please call if we can help with logistics.
> >
> >
> > Dave Saylor
> > AirCrafters LLC
> > 140 Aviation Way
> > Watsonville, CA 95076
> > 831-722-9141 Shop
> > 831-750-0284 Cell
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
======================
&g======
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flysrv10 <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
490 TT. Four years.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On May 23, 2010, at 7:38 PM, Rick wrote:
> 87 and down now for the first annual
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 23, 2010, at 5:30 PM, Jesse Saint
wrote:
>
>> Speaking of hours, how many hours are people up to? Tim? Scott?
Randy? We're at around 850 on N256H.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On May 23, 2010, at 6:32 PM, John Cox wrote:
>>
>>> There were a lot fewer than 1000 hours on N220RV and a lot of
history that went with the creation of the SB. Just glad no one else
found any. John #40600
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Sent from my Palm Pre
>>>
>>> On May 23, 2010 12:28 PM, DLM wrote:
>>>
>>> While giving a biannual to a friend in the 10 this morning, we were
stalling the aircraft. At times we got slow enough to get the prestall
buffet. When I looked back at the right hoizontal stab and elevator, I
could see a lot of movement. Considering that the IO360 RV10 (220RV?)
had 1000+ hours of landings and stalls in training, this may be a reason
for the cracks forming. We inspect each annual and have found no cracks
or even wrinkles.
>>>
>>> We also found that the aircraft becomes slightly unstable near the
stall prior to the buffet and a slight sink rate developes, therefore we
plan to use this to avoid the pre stall buffet and subsequent shaking of
the tail.
>>>
>>> Stall occurred at 53 KIAS with half flaps and 2400#
>>
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | windows & fiberglass |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I'm filling the window joint with glass cloth but having problem getting a good
feathered edge to the window. Apparently epoxy resin is not the best for a
feathered edge, I've tried mixing with cabosil, not good either. Thinking about
the blue polyfiber two part mix but don't know about the bond to plex.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299126#299126
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Headliner adhesive |
All,
I recently installed a foam backed fabric headliner in my RV-10 project. I
did test pieces using three different spray adhesives:
3M Super 77
DAP High Strength
Permatex 27828 Body Shop Carpet & Headliner Spray
The Permatex 27828 was by far the best product. It is available at
Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-16-75-oz/dp/B000HBNU
9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
<http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-16-75-oz/dp/B000HBN
U9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1275054862&sr=8-1>
&s=automotive&qid=1275054862&sr=8-1 and at auto parts stores such as
Advanced Auto.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (540 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I will be doing this next week too. I am curious what technique and materials
have worked best for both fiberglass thickness (paint cracking) and feathering.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299132#299132
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
I've found resin mixed with flox and cabosil to be the best for a
feathered edge.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 28, 2010, at 6:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> I'm filling the window joint with glass cloth but having problem
> getting a good feathered edge to the window. Apparently epoxy resin
> is not the best for a feathered edge, I've tried mixing with
> cabosil, not good either. Thinking about the blue polyfiber two
> part mix but don't know about the bond to plex.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299126#299126
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
I'm in the process of doing same this weekend.
I have taped off the edge and filled in the gap and am ready to cover
with light weight tape/cloth.
What techniques and tools work well for creating this edge?
Bill "finishing up the glass pieces" Watson
40605
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I've found resin mixed with flox and cabosil to be the best for a
> feathered edge.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On May 28, 2010, at 6:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm filling the window joint with glass cloth but having problem
>> getting a good feathered edge to the window. Apparently epoxy resin
>> is not the best for a feathered edge, I've tried mixing with cabosil,
>> not good either. Thinking about the blue polyfiber two part mix but
>> don't know about the bond to plex.
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 flying
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299126#299126
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
Bill, Jeff, Dave,
Pick up some "fine line tape" from the autobody store. It looks like (may
very well be, not sure) narrow electrical tape. I think it comes in 1/8"
and 1/4" widths. The narrow width makes it really easy to mask in the tight
corners.
A nice trick is to run the ends of the tape back into the center of the
masked area so you know where find them, like a little freeway
on-ramp/off-ramp.
Use the fine line tape on the plex where you want the overlay to end. The
special tape will keep the resin from getting underneath it.
Build up one or two layers over the fine line tape with regular electrical
tape. That gives you a little dam to run the resin up to. The glass should
stop just short of the dam, maybe 1/32" - 1/16". After the resin has cured,
bodywork the glass overlay all the way to the tape with SuperFil or
something similar. Jeff, I remember you had problems with the feathered
edge not adhering to the base. Flox would be fine in a situation like that
but here the filled area will be so small that Superfil should work OK.
You won't end up with a smooth feathered edge from the plex to the glass.
You'll have a little edge as thick as the tape dam. The paint will go
another 1/16-1/4" onto the plex and fair in that little edge very nicely.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 12:01 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm in the process of doing same this weekend.
>
> I have taped off the edge and filled in the gap and am ready to cover with
> light weight tape/cloth.
>
> What techniques and tools work well for creating this edge?
>
> Bill "finishing up the glass pieces" Watson
> 40605
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>>
>> I've found resin mixed with flox and cabosil to be the best for a
>> feathered edge.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On May 28, 2010, at 6:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I'm filling the window joint with glass cloth but having problem getting
>>> a good feathered edge to the window. Apparently epoxy resin is not the best
>>> for a feathered edge, I've tried mixing with cabosil, not good either.
>>> Thinking about the blue polyfiber two part mix but don't know about the
>>> bond to plex.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Dave Ford
>>> RV6 flying
>>> RV10 building
>>> Cadillac, MI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299126#299126
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
Perfect! Thanks so much Dave.
Bill "now psyched for the job" Watson
Dave Saylor wrote:
> Bill, Jeff, Dave,
>
> Pick up some "fine line tape" from the autobody store. It looks like
> (may very well be, not sure) narrow electrical tape. I think it comes
> in 1/8" and 1/4" widths. The narrow width makes it really easy to
> mask in the tight corners.
>
> A nice trick is to run the ends of the tape back into the center of
> the masked area so you know where find them, like a little freeway
> on-ramp/off-ramp.
>
> Use the fine line tape on the plex where you want the overlay to end.
> The special tape will keep the resin from getting underneath it.
>
> Build up one or two layers over the fine line tape with regular
> electrical tape. That gives you a little dam to run the resin up to.
> The glass should stop just short of the dam, maybe 1/32" - 1/16".
> After the resin has cured, bodywork the glass overlay all the way to
> the tape with SuperFil or something similar. Jeff, I remember you had
> problems with the feathered edge not adhering to the base. Flox would
> be fine in a situation like that but here the filled area will be so
> small that Superfil should work OK.
>
> You won't end up with a smooth feathered edge from the plex to the
> glass. You'll have a little edge as thick as the tape dam. The paint
> will go another 1/16-1/4" onto the plex and fair in that little edge
> very nicely.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 12:01 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I'm in the process of doing same this weekend.
>
> I have taped off the edge and filled in the gap and am ready to
> cover with light weight tape/cloth.
>
> What techniques and tools work well for creating this edge?
>
> Bill "finishing up the glass pieces" Watson
> 40605
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> >
>
> I've found resin mixed with flox and cabosil to be the best
> for a feathered edge.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On May 28, 2010, at 6:57 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> >
>
> I'm filling the window joint with glass cloth but having
> problem getting a good feathered edge to the window.
> Apparently epoxy resin is not the best for a feathered
> edge, I've tried mixing with cabosil, not good either.
> Thinking about the blue polyfiber two part mix but don't
> know about the bond to plex.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299126#299126
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Thanks Dave for the tips, the issue I've had so far was bringing the resin to electrical
tape which looked fine as I laid it in. The problem began as I began
to remove the tape, the overflow of resin on the tape in some places began to
pull up on the areas of feathering to the point that it looked as if it did
not have good adhesion to the plexiglass. I did sand the plex very well but as
I pulled the tape I could see the area turn a whitish color indicating a pulling
away. My concern is the adhesion down the road and the pulling away/bubbling
of the paint. If I hear you right the last 1/16 inch of polyfiber should
feather nicely and resolve the concerns of any pulling of resin from the plex?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299226#299226
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | iPad and Skycharts Pro - initial impressions |
This morning, I test flew the Skycharts on my iPad for the first time. I found
Skycharts to be a powerful and simple program; perfect for the iPad.
The program comes with all the charts (IFR, VFR, TAC) and plates you need. The
subscription is $20 per year, a great value.
If you have been playing with your iPad inside the house, you may lose you position
fix. Once you go outside and have the view of the sky, it finds your position
and you are ready to navigate. You do not need Internet connection to navigate.
You begin by typing in your waypoints, the course is drawn on the chart and you
are ready to navigate. You can toggle between different charts as you fly.
What I really like most is the ability to double click on an airport to get a list
of IFR plates. No more looking up your plates by state, city or it's name!
Another really nice feature for my age is that you can zoom as much as you need
to see all the details. This is really useful on the approach plates and the
resolution is perfect at all zoom levels. Zooming and panning is lightning fast,
no waiting.
Since the developer is very responsive to inquires, there are two things I would
like added (I need a lot for my $20):
It would be nice to have the program nominate the charts I need to cache based
on my flight plan. Right now you decide which charts your course crosses and which
charts you will need to cache.
It would also be nice to have the Approch plates "georeferenced?" so that you have
complete situational awareness while using the plates.
I highly recommend this app.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Skypad2 -- Voyager |
I got my Skypad2 a week or so ago and so far have been impressed........but
I have not flown with it. I did run the Voyager software on my PC and
hooked it up to x-plane. Pretty good training tool.
Voyager's approach plates are geo referenced.
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad and Skycharts Pro - initial impressions |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Which version of the iPad are you using? Is the position derived from
cell phone G3 network or a true GPS? If GPS, what are its
capabilities? Or is there need for external BT GPS with a BT stack on
the iPad?
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 5:47 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> This morning, I test flew the Skycharts on my iPad for the first time. I found
Skycharts to be a powerful and simple program; perfect for the iPad.
>
> The program comes with all the charts (IFR, VFR, TAC) and plates you need. The
subscription is $20 per year, a great value.
>
> If you have been playing with your iPad inside the house, you may lose you position
fix. Once you go outside and have the view of the sky, it finds your position
and you are ready to navigate. You do not need Internet connection to navigate.
>
> You begin by typing in your waypoints, the course is drawn on the chart and you
are ready to navigate. You can toggle between different charts as you fly.
>
> What I really like most is the ability to double click on an airport to get a
list of IFR plates. No more looking up your plates by state, city or it's name!
>
> Another really nice feature for my age is that you can zoom as much as you need
to see all the details. This is really useful on the approach plates and the
resolution is perfect at all zoom levels. Zooming and panning is lightning fast,
no waiting.
>
> Since the developer is very responsive to inquires, there are two things I would
like added (I need a lot for my $20):
>
> It would be nice to have the program nominate the charts I need to cache based
on my flight plan. Right now you decide which charts your course crosses and
which charts you will need to cache.
>
> It would also be nice to have the Approch plates "georeferenced?" so that you
have complete situational awareness while using the plates.
>
> I highly recommend this app.
>
> Rob Kermanj
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skypad2 -- Voyager |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Look forward to report from a flight or two. Especially responsiveness
for screen updates. I've seen original Skypad, and software is very
nice, tablet computer was a bit heavy and fat for use on kneeboard or
lap. Hmm, maybe room for it on the tunnel?
Kelly
On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 6:12 AM, Rene wrote:
>
> I got my Skypad2 a week or so ago and so far have been impressed........but
> I have not flown with it. I did run the Voyager software on my PC and
> hooked it up to x-plane. Pretty good training tool.
>
> Voyager's approach plates are geo referenced.
>
> Rene'
0
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
Dave,
If the resin is peeling up with the tape, there could be a few different
things going on.
Keep in mind that the chemical bond between typical laminating resin and
plex is never great. You get a decent mechanical bond by scuffing the plex,
as you did. Not to digress, but Weld-On, for example, does a better job
bonding chemically to the plex than laminating resin ever does.
By reinforcing the resin with the fiberglass layers, you can sort of
cantilever a little bridge out over the plex. The glass helps the bridge be
stiff enough to ensure that the relatively weak bond to the plex is
protected, that the bond to the plex doesn't see a peeling load, and it
stays stuck.
What may be happening in your case is that the body of resin between the
edge of the glass and the tape is too wide. Then the un-reinforced resin
could be flexible enough that removing the tape breaks the weak resin bond.
If that's the case, then you'll need the glass to be closer to the edge of
the tape.
Or, you may have some resin still overlapping the tape so when the tape was
lifted it pulled on the resin too. You'll need to sand all the way down to
the tape to make sure that the only part of the resin touching the tape is
the tiny vertical "thickness". By all means make sure that the glass
doesn't overlap the tape.
One thing you might want to change is the way that you remove the tape.
Once you get an inch or so of the tape lifted off the plex, try folding the
tail of the tape back around so the sticky side is up, and pull the tail
back at 90* to the masked edge--see attached photo. That puts the least
amount of peeling stress on the resin/plex bond.
Another problem might be that the resin is still a little soft. There's a
period before it's fully cured when it's still kind of rubbery and it might
pull off the plex. You have to be super careful if you decide to try to
warm the resin around plex--the plex starts to deform at relatively low
temps (see: my windshield-grr). We use electric blankets almost
exclusively now whenever we want to hurry up a curing cycle.
Let me know if you think you have something different going on. We'll get
it figured out.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 7:01 PM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave for the tips, the issue I've had so far was bringing the resin
> to electrical tape which looked fine as I laid it in. The problem began as
> I began to remove the tape, the overflow of resin on the tape in some places
> began to pull up on the areas of feathering to the point that it looked as
> if it did not have good adhesion to the plexiglass. I did sand the plex
> very well but as I pulled the tape I could see the area turn a whitish color
> indicating a pulling away. My concern is the adhesion down the road and the
> pulling away/bubbling of the paint. If I hear you right the last 1/16 inch
> of polyfiber should feather nicely and resolve the concerns of any pulling
> of resin from the plex?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299226#299226
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: iPad and Skycharts Pro - initial impressions |
I just saw an email update from the folks at foreflight on this. The
gps works ok at altitude and doesn't need 3g, but they were unhappy
with it's accuracy during climbs and descents, enough so that it
sounds like they decided georeferenced approach plates is something
they don't want to do right now....for safety. I'm sure with the
Bluetooth add-on that it would work ok, but since apple just is too
pig headed to allow that option, for non-jailbreakers you'll have to
suffer with less accuracy.
I love how well ipad works for what it does right...but it has it's
flaws too.
Tim
On May 29, 2010, at 9:15 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Which version of the iPad are you using? Is the position derived from
> cell phone G3 network or a true GPS? If GPS, what are its
> capabilities? Or is there need for external BT GPS with a BT stack on
> the iPad?
>
> On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 5:47 AM, Rob Kermanj
> wrote:
>>
>> This morning, I test flew the Skycharts on my iPad for the first
>> time. I found Skycharts to be a powerful and simple program;
>> perfect for the iPad.
>>
>> The program comes with all the charts (IFR, VFR, TAC) and plates
>> you need. The subscription is $20 per year, a great value.
>>
>> If you have been playing with your iPad inside the house, you may
>> lose you position fix. Once you go outside and have the view of the
>> sky, it finds your position and you are ready to navigate. You do
>> not need Internet connection to navigate.
>>
>> You begin by typing in your waypoints, the course is drawn on the
>> chart and you are ready to navigate. You can toggle between
>> different charts as you fly.
>>
>> What I really like most is the ability to double click on an
>> airport to get a list of IFR plates. No more looking up your plates
>> by state, city or it's name!
>>
>> Another really nice feature for my age is that you can zoom as much
>> as you need to see all the details. This is really useful on the
>> approach plates and the resolution is perfect at all zoom levels.
>> Zooming and panning is lightning fast, no waiting.
>>
>> Since the developer is very responsive to inquires, there are two
>> things I would like added (I need a lot for my $20):
>>
>> It would be nice to have the program nominate the charts I need to
>> cache based on my flight plan. Right now you decide which charts
>> your course crosses and which charts you will need to cache.
>>
>> It would also be nice to have the Approch plates "georeferenced?"
>> so that you have complete situational awareness while using the
>> plates.
>>
>> I highly recommend this app.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
Is anyone planning on entering the AirVenture Cup in an RV-10 this year?
The rules say the crew is limited to two but the organizer tells me they
would make an exception, maybe even another class if there are enough 10s.
We're thinking of entering this year with three on board.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skypad2 -- Voyager |
I flew with my new iPad last weekend for the first time using plates
downloaded from www.nacomatic.com using Goodreader for iPad.
Played with it at home before taking it in the plane, which I
recommend. Easy to bookmark approaches ahead of time for your route.
Charts and airfield diagrams (appear to be .pdf copies of the green
book pages) are free and you can make a contribution if you want to
help them keep the site going.
Takes a while to download, so I now download to desktop, connect iPad
and transfer.
No room on my tunnel and a little big to strap to my knee, so waiting
for the RAM iPad holder to appear in mid June, then use some RAM ball
joints and connect to the bar going from glare shield to the cabin
top. That way it will be facing me at eye level and just to the right
of my RAM mounted 396.
A little glare in bright sunlight, and have not tried it at night or
in the soup yet, but think it's going to work just fine.
grumpy
N184JM
On May 29, 2010, at 9:17 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Look forward to report from a flight or two. Especially responsiveness
> for screen updates. I've seen original Skypad, and software is very
> nice, tablet computer was a bit heavy and fat for use on kneeboard or
> lap. Hmm, maybe room for it on the tunnel?
> Kelly
>
> On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 6:12 AM, Rene wrote:
>>
>> I got my Skypad2 a week or so ago and so far have been
>> impressed........but
>> I have not flown with it. I did run the Voyager software on my PC
>> and
>> hooked it up to x-plane. Pretty good training tool.
>>
>> Voyager's approach plates are geo referenced.
>>
>> Rene'
> 0
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I remember some folks have upgraded oil coolers to one from Alex D what is
his contact # and the model # that works in the 10.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
>From my order.
Qty Item # Description Date Shipped
Tracking #
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2 LOU-12 Louver 12
1 2006X X-SERIES Oil Cooler for 160 hp to 280 hp
1 Glock RV Gust Lock
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 12:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler
I remember some folks have upgraded oil coolers to one from Alex D what is
his contact # and the model # that works in the 10.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
http://www.shop.aviationtechproducts.com/
part # on his site is 2006X. From the web site:
Flight testing on the popular RV series of aircraft has shown oil temperatu
re drops of 10 -15 degrees F for coolers of the same size in the same locat
ion. Not FAA approved. They come in three sizes, Part# 2002X is for Horsepo
wer 65 hp to 160 hp
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 1:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler
I remember some folks have upgraded oil coolers to one from Alex D what is
his contact # and the model # that works in the 10.
Gary Specketer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad and Skycharts Pro - initial impressions |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
I am using the Wi-Fi 3g. The latest. Apple says the position is arrived any and
al three. If using the satellite only, you must have it view the horizon and
try different positions to lock the location.
I really can't comment on the GPS capabilities since this thing is brand spanking
new to me . I will provide updates as i learn more. I am sure that a bluetooth
gps will provide faster locks but may also drain the battery quicker.
On May 29, 2010, at 10:15 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Which version of the iPad are you using? Is the position derived from
> cell phone G3 network or a true GPS? If GPS, what are its
> capabilities? Or is there need for external BT GPS with a BT stack on
> the iPad?
>
> On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 5:47 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>
>> This morning, I test flew the Skycharts on my iPad for the first time. I found
Skycharts to be a powerful and simple program; perfect for the iPad.
>>
>> The program comes with all the charts (IFR, VFR, TAC) and plates you need. The
subscription is $20 per year, a great value.
>>
>> If you have been playing with your iPad inside the house, you may lose you position
fix. Once you go outside and have the view of the sky, it finds your position
and you are ready to navigate. You do not need Internet connection to
navigate.
>>
>> You begin by typing in your waypoints, the course is drawn on the chart and
you are ready to navigate. You can toggle between different charts as you fly.
>>
>> What I really like most is the ability to double click on an airport to get
a list of IFR plates. No more looking up your plates by state, city or it's name!
>>
>> Another really nice feature for my age is that you can zoom as much as you need
to see all the details. This is really useful on the approach plates and the
resolution is perfect at all zoom levels. Zooming and panning is lightning
fast, no waiting.
>>
>> Since the developer is very responsive to inquires, there are two things I would
like added (I need a lot for my $20):
>>
>> It would be nice to have the program nominate the charts I need to cache based
on my flight plan. Right now you decide which charts your course crosses and
which charts you will need to cache.
>>
>> It would also be nice to have the Approch plates "georeferenced?" so that you
have complete situational awareness while using the plates.
>>
>> I highly recommend this app.
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: iPad and Skycharts Pro - initial impressions |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
Hopefully they have made the conclusion using the Wi-Fi 3G model.
There are some things to consider for the GPS location to work:
1. The Location Service must be "on".
2. The time must be set to "automatic". It should not be set manually. The setting
should also be the same on the desk top being used to sync the iPad.
I learned from Airguide Publication folks at Sun/Fun that they will have a bluetooth
GPS for their subscription. Not sure if it will have to be hacked to work.
I have to admit, obvious from the subject line, that this is my initial report.
I did make two approaches to min. and was impressed. However, I am just as
happy to be able to have the charts and plates on the screen and navigate the
old fashion way, with my panel GPS. After all, we all have at least two GPSs
to use for navigation.
On May 29, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I just saw an email update from the folks at foreflight on this. The gps works
ok at altitude and doesn't need 3g, but they were unhappy with it's accuracy
during climbs and descents, enough so that it sounds like they decided georeferenced
approach plates is something they don't want to do right now....for safety.
I'm sure with the Bluetooth add-on that it would work ok, but since apple
just is too pig headed to allow that option, for non-jailbreakers you'll have
to suffer with less accuracy.
> I love how well ipad works for what it does right...but it has it's flaws too.
> Tim
>
>
>
> On May 29, 2010, at 9:15 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> Which version of the iPad are you using? Is the position derived from
>> cell phone G3 network or a true GPS? If GPS, what are its
>> capabilities? Or is there need for external BT GPS with a BT stack on
>> the iPad?
>>
>> On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 5:47 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>>
>>> This morning, I test flew the Skycharts on my iPad for the first time. I found
Skycharts to be a powerful and simple program; perfect for the iPad.
>>>
>>> The program comes with all the charts (IFR, VFR, TAC) and plates you need.
The subscription is $20 per year, a great value.
>>>
>>> If you have been playing with your iPad inside the house, you may lose you
position fix. Once you go outside and have the view of the sky, it finds your
position and you are ready to navigate. You do not need Internet connection to
navigate.
>>>
>>> You begin by typing in your waypoints, the course is drawn on the chart and
you are ready to navigate. You can toggle between different charts as you fly.
>>>
>>> What I really like most is the ability to double click on an airport to get
a list of IFR plates. No more looking up your plates by state, city or it's name!
>>>
>>> Another really nice feature for my age is that you can zoom as much as you
need to see all the details. This is really useful on the approach plates and
the resolution is perfect at all zoom levels. Zooming and panning is lightning
fast, no waiting.
>>>
>>> Since the developer is very responsive to inquires, there are two things I
would like added (I need a lot for my $20):
>>>
>>> It would be nice to have the program nominate the charts I need to cache based
on my flight plan. Right now you decide which charts your course crosses and
which charts you will need to cache.
>>>
>>> It would also be nice to have the Approch plates "georeferenced?" so that you
have complete situational awareness while using the plates.
>>>
>>> I highly recommend this app.
>>>
>>> Rob Kermanj
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
dave.saylor.aircrafters(a wrote:
> Dave,
>
> If the resin is peeling up with the tape, there could be a few different things
going on.
>
> What may be happening in your case is that the body of resin between the edge
of the glass and the tape is too wide. Then the un-reinforced resin could be
flexible enough that removing the tape breaks the weak resin bond. If that's the
case, then you'll need the glass to be closer to the edge of the tape.
>
> Or, you may have some resin still overlapping the tape so when the tape was lifted
it pulled on the resin too. You'll need to sand all the way down to the
tape to make sure that the only part of the resin touching the tape is the tiny
vertical "thickness". By all means make sure that the glass doesn't overlap
the tape.
>
>
>
>
>
[/quote]
Dave,
I think this is probably what is happening, a combination of not enough glass close
to the tape, too wide of a resin bridge, and resin left on the tape. So
I'll redo & leave a smaller gap, use polyfiber to feather in to the tape, then
sand the electrical tape to remove any film that may pull. I'm assuming two
layers of glass would be sufficient.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299412#299412
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Alex is very good to deal with:
Aviation Tech Products
2911 N. Mockingbird Ln
Midlothian, TX 76065
972-775-1896
aviationtechproducts.com
Oil cooler is about $400 - with the discount from deleting it from Vans FWF order
it will cost you about $100 - well worth it.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299450#299450
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | First formal report on RV 10 explosion |
Here is a tragedy... though we must note that its a tragedy that could
have been FAR worse. The loss of a carefully crafted Experimental,
especially a really prized airframe like the RV-10, is tragic, but the
fact that everyone escaped unharmed (pretty much) is a blessing.
NTSB Identification: ERA10LA256
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Friday, May 07, 2010 in Ridgeland, SC
Aircraft: SWEZEY T/MOLNAR D VANS RV-10, registration: N110TD
Injuries: 2 Serious.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain
errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final
report has been completed.
On May 7, 2010, about 1511 eastern daylight time, an experimental
amateur-built Vans RV-10, N110TD, was destroyed during an explosion
after landing at Ridgeland Airport (3J1), Ridgeland, South Carolina.
The certificated private pilot and passenger were seriously injured.
Visual meteorological conditions prevailed, and no flight plan was
filed for the personal flight, which was conducted under the
provisions of Title 14 Code of Federal Regulations Part 91.
According to the pilot, earlier in the day he fueled the airplane with
automotive fuel which contained 10 percent alcohol, flew to Athens/Ben
Epps Airport (AHN), Athens, GA, picked up his passenger and then
departed from AHN about 1400. The flight was flown at an altitude of
9,500 feet above mean sea level and everything "seemed normal." While
the airplane was on short final, "about 200 feet from the runway," he
had a "brief whiff" of an odor similar to "a gas smell." Upon landing
the passenger asked if they should open the door and the pilot stated
"wait [un]til we clear the runway." The airplane back taxied on the
runway a short distance and exited the runway on the taxiway adjacent
to the ramp area. As the airplane exited the runway an explosion
caused the windows and door to be blown out. He stated that it was
similar to a "vapor fire" in that there was an intense flash of heat
and fire; however, it did not last long. The occupants exited the
airplane. The pilot returned to the airplane, utilized the on board
hand held fire extinguisher, and extinguished the fire on the floor of
the cabin. As he was walking away from the airplane towards his
passenger, the airplane "exploded" a second time and was engulfed in
flames within moments. The pilot normally "raises the flaps after
clearing the runway;" however, could not recall if he had raised the
flaps just prior to the first explosion.
RV-10 File Photo
According to the co-owner of the airplane it had been inspected on
January 2, 2010 and the "tunnel" for the fuel line was inspected and
free of debris. He stated that normally they use "93 octane auto
fuel;" however, they can use 100 LL aviation fuel. He further stated
that he had flown the airplane about 2 or 3 weeks prior and did not
detect any odors.
Examination of the airplane by Federal Aviation Administration (FAA)
aviation safety inspectors revealed that the airplane was completely
consumed by fire. Only a small portion of the tail section, and the
engine area forward of the firewall had not been consumed by fire.
The pilot held a private pilot certificate with a rating for airplane
single-engine land and a repair man experimental aircraft builder
certificate with inspection certificate for the accident airplane. The
pilot's most recent FAA third-class medical certificate was issued in
April 2009. During a phone interview with the NTSB investigator in
charge the pilot reported approximately 300 total hours of flight
experience and approximately 135 total hours of flight experience in
the accident airplane. He further reported that his logbook was in the
airplane at the time of the accident.
According to FAA records, the airplane was manufactured and issued a
special airworthiness certificate in 2008. The airplane was equipped
with a Chevrolet 2006 LS-2 engine and a Vesta 3B78 propeller. The
pilot reported to the NTSB that during the accident flight the
airplane had just gone over 150 total hours time in service.
The 1456 recorded weather at Beaufort Marine Corp Air Station (NBC),
Beaufort, South Carolina located 14 nautical miles to the east of the
accident location included winds from 140 degrees at 5 knots,
visibility 7 miles, few clouds at 6,000 feet above ground level,
temperature 32 degrees C, dew point 16 degrees C, and the altimeter
setting was 29.98 inches of mercury.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First formal report on RV 10 explosion |
What an awful scenario! Sincerely hope they recover.
Sent from my iPad
On May 31, 2010, at 10:17 AM, Miller John wrote:
> Here is a tragedy... though we must note that its a tragedy that could
have been FAR worse. The loss of a carefully crafted Experimental,
especially a really prized airframe like the RV-10, is tragic, but the
fact that everyone escaped unharmed (pretty much) is a blessing.
>
> NTSB Identification: ERA10LA256
> 14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
> Accident occurred Friday, May 07, 2010 in Ridgeland, SC
> Aircraft: SWEZEY T/MOLNAR D VANS RV-10, registration: N110TD
> Injuries: 2 Serious.
>
> This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain
errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final
report has been completed.
>
> On May 7, 2010, about 1511 eastern daylight time, an experimental
amateur-built Vans RV-10, N110TD, was destroyed during an explosion
after landing at Ridgeland Airport (3J1), Ridgeland, South Carolina. The
certificated private pilot and passenger were seriously injured. Visual
meteorological conditions prevailed, and no flight plan was filed for
the personal flight, which was conducted under the provisions of Title
14 Code of Federal Regulations Part 91.
>
> According to the pilot, earlier in the day he fueled the airplane with
automotive fuel which contained 10 percent alcohol, flew to Athens/Ben
Epps Airport (AHN), Athens, GA, picked up his passenger and then
departed from AHN about 1400. The flight was flown at an altitude of
9,500 feet above mean sea level and everything "seemed normal." While
the airplane was on short final, "about 200 feet from the runway," he
had a "brief whiff" of an odor similar to "a gas smell." Upon landing
the passenger asked if they should open the door and the pilot stated
"wait [un]til we clear the runway." The airplane back taxied on the
runway a short distance and exited the runway on the taxiway adjacent to
the ramp area. As the airplane exited the runway an explosion caused the
windows and door to be blown out. He stated that it was similar to a
"vapor fire" in that there was an intense flash of heat and fire;
however, it did not last long. The occupants exited the airplane. The
pilot returned to the airplane, utilized the on board hand held fire
extinguisher, and extinguished the fire on the floor of the cabin. As he
was walking away from the airplane towards his passenger, the airplane
"exploded" a second time and was engulfed in flames within moments. The
pilot normally "raises the flaps after clearing the runway;" however,
could not recall if he had raised the flaps just prior to the first
explosion.
>
>
>
> RV-10 File Photo
>
> According to the co-owner of the airplane it had been inspected on
January 2, 2010 and the "tunnel" for the fuel line was inspected and
free of debris. He stated that normally they use "93 octane auto fuel;"
however, they can use 100 LL aviation fuel. He further stated that he
had flown the airplane about 2 or 3 weeks prior and did not detect any
odors.
>
> Examination of the airplane by Federal Aviation Administration (FAA)
aviation safety inspectors revealed that the airplane was completely
consumed by fire. Only a small portion of the tail section, and the
engine area forward of the firewall had not been consumed by fire.
>
> The pilot held a private pilot certificate with a rating for airplane
single-engine land and a repair man experimental aircraft builder
certificate with inspection certificate for the accident airplane. The
pilot's most recent FAA third-class medical certificate was issued in
April 2009. During a phone interview with the NTSB investigator in
charge the pilot reported approximately 300 total hours of flight
experience and approximately 135 total hours of flight experience in the
accident airplane. He further reported that his logbook was in the
airplane at the time of the accident.
>
> According to FAA records, the airplane was manufactured and issued a
special airworthiness certificate in 2008. The airplane was equipped
with a Chevrolet 2006 LS-2 engine and a Vesta 3B78 propeller. The pilot
reported to the NTSB that during the accident flight the airplane had
just gone over 150 total hours time in service.
>
>
>
> The 1456 recorded weather at Beaufort Marine Corp Air Station (NBC),
Beaufort, South Carolina located 14 nautical miles to the east of the
accident location included winds from 140 degrees at 5 knots, visibility
7 miles, few clouds at 6,000 feet above ground level, temperature 32
degrees C, dew point 16 degrees C, and the altimeter setting was 29.98
inches of mercury.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: windows & fiberglass |
>I'm assuming two layers of glass would be sufficient.<
Definitely. One layer of 7781 (very common cloth) should be enough.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
Just to satisfy my curiosity, i am wondering about page 48-23, the nose fairing
template has a line that says "Trim here for IO-540 left side only". I can't
see why the cutout is needed. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Jae
#40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299662#299662
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
Prop governor
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jchang10
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 9:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only
Just to satisfy my curiosity, i am wondering about page 48-23, the nose
fairing template has a line that says "Trim here for IO-540 left side only".
I can't see why the cutout is needed. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Jae
#40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299662#299662
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I thought it was for the vent hanger fairing that is on one side coming down the
middle bottom of the cowling. I'm not sure, I don't have my plans in front
of me.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299680#299680
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
The bracket that holds the bottom fairing in the center (basically the gap
between the gear and bottom fusellage) is in that location.
Pascal
#40720
so close to starting to finish
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 6:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only
>
> Just to satisfy my curiosity, i am wondering about page 48-23, the nose
> fairing template has a line that says "Trim here for IO-540 left side
> only". I can't see why the cutout is needed. Does anyone know?
>
> Thanks,
> Jae
> #40533
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299662#299662
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
oh, yeah, i forgot about that bracket. thanks!
Jae
On 6/1/2010 8:52 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> The bracket that holds the bottom fairing in the center (basically the
> gap between the gear and bottom fusellage) is in that location.
> Pascal
> #40720
> so close to starting to finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only |
Pascal, and group.... Make a new bracket to support the bottom cowl... heav
ier material, and wider.... otherwise it WILL break.- I was just installi
ng the one I made (of course I made several) and Mark Carey came by to ck o
n my progress.... and said his just broke.
Texas status:-
Kim made it to the Pecan Platation here in Texas about an hour before I did
.- About 1,400 miles.... two--4 hour flights seperated by a short ref
ueling stop.- No problems... with the exception of the one towering cumul
ous, that I thought contained no lightning.... at least until I was skirtin
g the edge.... then lighning,.... then I turned to create more distance bet
ween it and me... and I succeeded in escaping.
Will keep in touch.--- Don
--- On Tue, 6/1/10, Jae Chang wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose gear fairing trim for IO-540 only
Date: Tuesday, June 1, 2010, 9:30 PM
oh, yeah, i forgot about that bracket. thanks!
Jae
On 6/1/2010 8:52 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> The bracket that holds the bottom fairing in the center (basically the
> gap between the gear and bottom fusellage) is in that location.
> Pascal
> #40720
> so close to starting to finish
>
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Stein eyeball vents |
Was wondering which eyeball vents from Stein are suited for the flange on
the forward NACA vents on either side of the instrument panel. To use his I
assume you make a 3 inch square plate to mount on the NACA vent flange and
then drill appropriate size hole in plate to mount vent directly to said
flange (no SCAT needed). SO should I get the 1.25 or 2 inch eyeballs?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
I had originally purchased the 1 3/4" Stein vents, made the flanges you mentioned.
The 1 3/4" vents come with a duct that threads onto the vent and allows the
scat tubing to attach to the vent (although the duct would not be used as the
vent is mounted directly to the NASA flange). Using the duct is the only means
to attach the vent to a flange (unless you can find a thin nut with the very
fine threads that match the actual eyeball vent). I had machined the duct or
cut off the last bit of the duct to use as a nut and mounted the make shift nut
and vent to the flange.
We then decided to go with a carbon fiber panel and the above would not fit as
the eyeball vent mounts into the carbon panel ( I sold the modified vents) .We
purchased the smaller ones. I have not flown the A/C yet , hopefully soon, but
I think I would prefer the 1 3/4" if I were to use the Van's panel, but I do
believe the smaller ones would be easier to mount as the nut I had to fabricate
comes with the smaller ones.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299803#299803
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
with no shortcommings as far as I know.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails have started!
Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who are interested in being in
the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a group of around 25 RV-10 folks
ranging from those just starting the tail kit to those that have been flying
for multiple years. Additionally weve traditionally facilitated a couple of
large cookouts where those not camping with us can attend typically upwards
of 75-100 people including some notable vendors.
We will again stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure starts which
is 7/20 this year. Payment is required in advance from the first night through
the Sunday night at the end of Airventure which winds up being 13 nights. Price
this year is $22 per night which comes out to $286. You can either mail me
a check (contact me offline for address) or use PayPal. PayPal is much easier
all the way around but there's a fee of about $9 that they'll take out so if
you use that service you'll need to send $295.
Heres how it works if youre interested:
Gary, Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of the group.
Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making venture. Your
campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and will be paid for
with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you leave early you will
receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site registration on your way
out of the campgrounds. I will check with Tim to see if hes willing to once
again have info on his website to facilitate people leaving early coordinating
with others coming late in the week.
Summary, if you want a campsite with the group:
- I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010.
- If using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net
- I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership must be
valid through at least August 2010.
- It would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're planning to
arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A, tent, etc)
- We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's available
when we get there but our target will be in the same area that we've been the
last few years which is immediately south of Pauls Park in Camp Scholler (around
55th and Lindbergh).
- Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of the camper,
tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether youve got kids, etc. If you dont like the
location you can swap around when you get there.
- Well have your car pass, etc. at one of our sites and you simply call when you
get close and somebody meet you at the registration gate.
Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on Tims website at: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
Ill post more info and a reminder in a few weeks when it gets closer.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299863#299863
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
If Steins go on satisfactorily I'll save $50 for the pair.
-Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Stein eyeball vents
Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
with no shortcommings as far as I know.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stein eyeball vents |
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> Why aren't you using the SV-6 vents that Vans sells? They look and work well
> with no shortcommings as far as I know.
>
Well, the $150 price tag might be a considered a shortcoming.!!! I'd
need 6. $900 will be used in a lot of other places!
Linn
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance weigth arms |
Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final
drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler
block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out
of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of
me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a
bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as
stated in the plans.
I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to
being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad
more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or
a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost
perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of
then to see how close there in line to each other.
So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left
Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way
close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure
they will say build on.
So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of
aluminum or steel.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice
.... before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm
giving much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a
little dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the
elevator.
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When
> final drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made
> a filler block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought
> to make it out of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep
> moving got the best of me and I make it out of oak. We as you can
> imagine the drill bit walked a bit and the holes did not get drilled
> as straight as humanly possible as stated in the plans.
>
> I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me
> to being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16
> or a tad more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up
> about a 1/16 or a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft
> spars are almost perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft
> level across the back of then to see how close there in line to each
> other.
>
> So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have
> the left Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I
> think I am way close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see
> what they say. I am sure they will say build on.
>
> So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block
> out of aluminum or steel.
>
> John G. Cumins
>
> 40864 Emp
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Hi John,
Not sure if you NEED to re-drill but I can guaranty you will think about it for
the rest of the build and the first flight (even if it doesn't affect it).
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299885#299885
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance weigth arms |
Linn
Thanks for the reply, were you able to get both elevators flush on both
sides or are they off just a tad like mine are.
Having a hard time not knowing they are not perfect hehehe.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator balance weigth arms
Welcome to the club John. I welded up the offending hole ..... twice ....
before I got it right. I made the 'working' block to fill the arm giving
much more area to clamp on. I think that I ended up drilling a little
dimple to mark the spot and drilling the hole after removing the elevator.
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
Well I have a slight issue I would like everyone's opinion on. When final
drilling the elevator horns where the push rod connects. I made a filler
block according to vans instructions, I did have a thought to make it out
of steel or even aluminum block but my desire to keep moving got the best of
me and I make it out of oak. We as you can imagine the drill bit walked a
bit and the holes did not get drilled as straight as humanly possible as
stated in the plans.
I was able to get the balance arms close not not close enough for me to
being level with the horiz stab as I would like. I am about 1/16 or a tad
more off. When the left side is flush the right side is up about a 1/16 or
a tad more. I know this is close and the elevator aft spars are almost
perfect parallel to each other when I run a 4 ft level across the back of
then to see how close there in line to each other.
So the question is am I being to anal about this or should I g have the left
Elevator horn holes welded shut and redrill. Or should I think I am way
close enough. I will call vans this morning ro see what they say. I am sure
they will say build on.
So if you have not gotten to this step do not use wood make the block out of
aluminum or steel.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Albert
Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on
doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit.
John G. Cumins
40864 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Watterson" <davidw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Albert,
I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they
match the Vans wiring harness?
David C. Watterson
N2733K
557 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
Albert
Thanks for letting everyone know. That's exactly what I am planning on
doing. Did you go with the 35w or 50w unit.
John G. Cumins
40864 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
>
> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona,
> Mesa,
> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and
> the
> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
> lights up the area directly in front.
> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the
left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up
a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the
components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and
other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the
problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work
within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut
the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the
lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote:
>
> My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
> http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com
> >
>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
>
> Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
>
>
>>
>> I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
>> were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
>> plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona,
>> Mesa,
>> AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and
>> the
>> power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
>> lights up the area directly in front.
>> Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
>> Albert Gardner
>> N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I didn't use the Van's harness so I don't know. I think on mine I used a 2
wire molex connector.
Albert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Watterson
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
Albert,
I looked at Rigid website. The pictures show plugs on the lights. Do they
match the Vans wiring harness?
David C. Watterson
N2733K
557 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I used the 50W lamps. I'm very happy with the setup.
Albert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
I will check the VOR reception; I have archer antenna in right wingtip
and SL30 and have noticed no problem but i will check with HID lights
on. I have had no interference with the Com.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on
the left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas
pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and
separate the components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations
and other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with
the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs
work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I
can shut the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10"
of the lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner"
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights
because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in
front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of
Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans
lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very
bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Since I've gotten older and suffered some high freq hearing loss most rfi
doesn't bother me nearly as much. My passengers seem to hear a whine on
occasion but I ignore them. I tell them the only time I hear a whine is when
they open their mouths. Saw your folks at lunch yesterday.
Albert
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the
left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up
a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the
components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and
other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the
problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work
within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut
the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the
lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
I had several people contact me directly about my post so I'll copy my reply
here. I installed mine like the install pictures on their webpage
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
and it was very simple to do. I did not oval out the mounting plate however
but I'm satisfied with the results. If you fly at night I'll bet you cuss
the factory setup.
I didn't use van's wiring harness so I don't know if the plugs on the
landing lights match van's or not.
Albert Gardner
I did the retrofit on my plane after I had been flying for about a year. You
have to remove the wingtip, the new bulbs are a direct replacement for the
ones Van's supplies, and then mount the HID power supply somewhere. It is
about the size of a thin paperback book and I attached mine to the exterior
of the wingtip rib near the spar with some #8 machine screws. I used the
landing light wire to power the power supply. Wish I had taken some pictures
but it was a very simple job. Unscrewing the wingtip was the biggest part of
it.
Albert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
also mine run much cooler than the halogen.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on
the left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas
pick up a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and
separate the components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations
and other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with
the problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs
work within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I
can shut the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10"
of the lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner"
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights
because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in
front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of
Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans
lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very
bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
| From: | "Planelights" <steve(at)rigidindustries.com> |
Albert,
Glad to hear you are happy with the system.
All our systems come with wire pigtail adapters that you splice into your stock
wiring however you would like. We always suggest solder and shrink wrap although
but connectors work just fine. The plugs between the ballast and the bulbs
are high voltage plugs and wire, don't cut those, ever!
There will be a current surge in any HID system. It doesn't matter if you use
a Xevision, lopresti or ours. We recommend using at least 14ga wire out to the
wings to be on the safe side. Each 50w light @ 14v will pull about 7a for 10
sec. Once the lights are warm, the power draw will stabilize about 4-4.5a.
We have done all we can to shield the circuitry and use shielded HV wire, but
23,000v will cause a little interference. The only way to solve that is a very
expensive D1S bulb with the igniter built onto the back of bulb. Xevison makes
a very nice system, but you are going to pay quite a bit to get the same
light output. With a couple precautions almost all the RFI noise can be eliminated
for 1/4 the price.
We have sold close to 500 MR16 sets over the last 3 years and only 1 set has ever
knocked an autopilot off. If by some fluke you are the second, we will be
glad to give you a refund, just as we did for Jesse.
I am not on here very often so if you have questions please email me via the link
on the website.
Thanks
Steve(Planelights/Rigid)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299939#299939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building
time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2
hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes
seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes
and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size
capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to
buy and store in the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulk Wire Order |
Here is something from my archives from Stein.
Sending the whole message but stick with the wires section only, worry
about the BNC after you have the panel figured out.
--------------
Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with
teflon,
silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're
getting).
Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've
just
wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new.
Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least
the
following initially:
200' AWG22
200' AWG18
150' AWG16
50' AWG20
50' AWG14
25' AWG12
25' AWG10
100' RG-400 Coax
a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG
ring
terminals, and some heatshrink.
Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up.
The
above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if
you're
wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on
lighting,
radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools
then
trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're
talking
about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a
couple/few
hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing
around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy
it.
As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps
over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you
playing
with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like
this,
for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story
because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap
item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
--------------------
Pascal
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building
time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2
hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes
seem to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes
and use the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size
capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to
buy and store in the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance weigth arms |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I had a similar problem on mine. Van's told me to just weld it and drill it again.
I did not want to think about that thing failing while flying, so i just bought
new elevator horns and replaced them. Wasn't too hard and I felt that it
was worth the effort.
You can see some pictures I posted here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=43969&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=23
Lenny
#40803
White spaghetti everywhere...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299984#299984
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Bulk Wire Order |
If you have not tried SteinAir, they are competitive on pricing and offer e
xcellent customer service. http://www.steinair.com/store.htm
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2010 11:12:01 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building time
has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2 hours to wor
k on the airplane, so hopefully we=99re getting back on track.
I=99m getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I=99m curiou
s what sizes seem to be the ones used most? I=99m hoping to standardi
ze on 3-4 sizes and use the next largest size; even if it=99s not the
smallest size capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools
I need to buy and store in the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulk Wire Order |
I personally like to use the correct size for each application to
balance weight and safety. Using a wire that's too big for the
application only adds weight. I understand the desire to save space,
but you can get a wire spool holder that holds 8 spools of wire in a
very small space. I have a friend that bought one at Lowes, I think,
but I'm not sure. I actually built a wire cart, which would obviously
take too much space. Another thing I like to do is use different colors
as much as possible. I always use Red for power and Black for ground,
of which I use mostly 18AWG, but also use a fair bit of 16AWG and 20AWG.
I usually use another color for signal wires that don't actually carry
power amperage, and I usually use 22AWG for this. For wires like Master
and Starter, I usually use Yellow 18AWG. For Trim Servos I usually use
a 3-conductor Shielded wire and a 2-conductor Shielded wire, since the
servo(s) need 5 wires. Using different color wires make it much easier
to trace a wire through a bundle when (not if) you have to do repairs
down the road. I also like to use Stein's auto pilot servo bundle for
the auto pilot servos, but I've also done that with the shielded
multi-conductor wire plus red and black or with just individual wires of
different colors. I also use a decent amount of 14AWG for landing
lights (when HID) and for E-Bus and Backup Bus when using Vertical
Power. You'll also need some 2AWG for power and starter main wires and
8AWG for Alternator and Bus wires.
Or, you could just get white 22, 20, 18, 16, 8 and 2 and make a
nightmare for yourself down the road when it comes time to modify or
repair. I don't recommend this. The wire bundles might look nicer this
way, but they are a pain to deal with.
Oh, on the multi-conductor shielded wire, I recommend using no smaller
than 22AWG. 24 is a pain to work with and 26 is rediculous, IMHO. The
added weight of going to 22 is negligible for the small amount needed.
This is all assuming a 12-Volt system.
That's my $.02
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 3, 2010, at 11:12 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building
time has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2
hours to work on the airplane, so hopefully we=92re getting back on
track.
>
> I=92m getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I=92m curious what
sizes seem to be the ones used most? I=92m hoping to standardize on 3-4
sizes and use the next largest size; even if it=92s not the smallest
size capable of the load. This way I can minimize how many spools I
need to buy and store in the garage.
>
> Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I went with a very similar list from Stein. But ordered extra 22 and 18, 5
different colors (Red, Green, Black, White, Yellow), 100 feet each. I have
some left, but NOT some of each color. I did not wire my own panel,
but...there is a lot of wire outside the panel. For example, the wing is a
little over 12 feet long, from the wing root to the back of the panel (or
strobe power supply) lets say it is 6 feet depending on routing..that makes
each run about 19' so far.you will need a maintenance loop (unless you are
putting in connectors), let's say 3'. So each run out to the wing tip will
be 22 feet. Now since you don't want to come up short, better add a few
feet for good measure. So lets just say, for a budget number you will need
30' feet per run out to the wing tips. This may be a little overkill, but
you will be surprised at how much wire you end up using.
RG-400. I ordered 100 feet and had to get more for the transponder cable
because I ran out. Again, it is a long way out to the wing tip...and don't
forget those maintenance loops...
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Here is something from my archives from Stein.
Sending the whole message but stick with the wires section only, worry about
the BNC after you have the panel figured out.
--------------
Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with teflon,
silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're getting).
Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've just
wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new.
Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least the
following initially:
200' AWG22
200' AWG18
150' AWG16
50' AWG20
50' AWG14
25' AWG12
25' AWG10
100' RG-400 Coax
a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG ring
terminals, and some heatshrink.
Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up. The
above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if you're
wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on lighting,
radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools then
trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're talking
about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a couple/few
hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing
around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy it.
As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps
over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you playing
with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like this,
for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story
because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap
item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
--------------------
Pascal
From: Perry, <mailto:Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> Phil
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building time
has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2 hours to
work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes seem
to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes and use
the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size capable of the
load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to buy and store in
the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
We also bought the Planelights 50W lights. Although we haven't flown yet,
they seem to be much brighter than the stock Van's lights. We bought them
last year and when we went to install them, last month, one of the lights
didn't work. I called Planelights and they sent me a new light, no
questions asked. Great service!!! We had the DAR inspection a few weeks
ago, the instruments passed IFR, and the engine started on the first turn.
High speed taxi test this weekend and first flight next week.
Rick Barnes
Mike Howe
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
also mine run much cooler than the halogen.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor <mailto:dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I'm using the 50W lights in my wingtips too.
I'm also using the XeVision wig wag. Works like a champ.
I have Archer antennas in the tips, comm 2 on the right, nav 1&2 on the
left.
The lights and the antennas don't play well together. The antennas pick up
a lot of noise from the lights. When I remove a wingtip and separate the
components, all is well.
I tried all the suggestions that Rigid had: isolated the transformer,
grounded the transformer case, shielded the lights, various combinations and
other things as well. No luck.
The good news is that the lights are so awesome that I can live with the
problem. They make the halogens look just plain silly. The navs work
within about 5 miles of the station, and if I really need comm2 I can shut
the lights off.
BTW, don't put any dark colored flammable materials within about 10" of the
lamp...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:47 PM, DLM wrote:
My aircraft is the one shown on the website.
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
I was very unhappy with the standard wing tip landing lights because they
were not very bright and did not light up the yellow strip in front of the
plane. I bought a pair of HID Lights from Rigid Industries of Arizona, Mesa,
AZ and they work very, very well. Direct replacement for Vans lamps, and the
power supply is small and easily mounts to the last rib. Very bright and
lights up the area directly in front.
Tower says I look like an airliner on approach.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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==========
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulk Wire Order |
While RG-400 looks and sounds sexy, I personally don't see the advantage
of using it for nav antennas, and benefit for comm antennas is probably
marginal. I can see using it for transponder and GPS antennas. All of
the RG-58 in my Mooney is at least 20 yrs old, and radios still work
fine. That extra $1.50 a foot sure adds up in a hurry. Opinion over on
Aero-electric list recently was minimal difference for normal VHF stuff.
I guess that puts it in the primer discussion category. ;-)
On 6/4/2010 5:50 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> RG-400. I ordered 100 feet and had to get more for the transponder
> cable because I ran out. Again, it is a long way out to the wing
> tip..and dont forget those maintenance loops.
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> N423CF
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I forgot something..
Crimp tools, pins, connectors...etc.
I did not wire my panel, but did need plenty of these. Stein sells a great
crimper and all the parts you need to make good connections.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
I went with a very similar list from Stein. But ordered extra 22 and 18, 5
different colors (Red, Green, Black, White, Yellow), 100 feet each. I have
some left, but NOT some of each color. I did not wire my own panel,
but...there is a lot of wire outside the panel. For example, the wing is a
little over 12 feet long, from the wing root to the back of the panel (or
strobe power supply) lets say it is 6 feet depending on routing..that makes
each run about 19' so far.you will need a maintenance loop (unless you are
putting in connectors), let's say 3'. So each run out to the wing tip will
be 22 feet. Now since you don't want to come up short, better add a few
feet for good measure. So lets just say, for a budget number you will need
30' feet per run out to the wing tips. This may be a little overkill, but
you will be surprised at how much wire you end up using.
RG-400. I ordered 100 feet and had to get more for the transponder cable
because I ran out. Again, it is a long way out to the wing tip...and don't
forget those maintenance loops...
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Here is something from my archives from Stein.
Sending the whole message but stick with the wires section only, worry about
the BNC after you have the panel figured out.
--------------
Stick with the standard M22759/16 Tefzel wire...don't bother with teflon,
silver plated, etc...or surplus stuff (you never know what you're getting).
Also, if you spend more than a few hours "hunting" for a deal, you've just
wasted enough time to buy what you want and what you need brand new.
Depending on what you're doing with the plane and panel, buy at least the
following initially:
200' AWG22
200' AWG18
150' AWG16
50' AWG20
50' AWG14
25' AWG12
25' AWG10
100' RG-400 Coax
a dozen male BNC's, a half dozen female BNC's, a couple hundred PIDG ring
terminals, and some heatshrink.
Now, depending on if you want colors or not you can split all that up. The
above wiring amounts could vary pretty significantly depending on if you're
wiring your own panel or not, whether you're going full boat on lighting,
radios, IFR/VFR, etc.. I wouldn't waste my time buying whole spools then
trying to sell the surplus. Heck, wire is relatively cheap, we're talking
about something that costs pennies per foot...you'll only spend a couple/few
hundred bucks of wire total. Why waste your time goofing
around.......figure out what you need, what colors you want and just buy it.
As someone who regularly buys wire in 10,000' - 20,000' spools and keeps
over a half million feet of wire "hanging around", I can tell you playing
with spools to save a few percent is a waste of time on an item like this,
for one airplane. With your Avionics or engine it's a different story
because you can save a lot of dough, but in the wiring it's such a cheap
item to begin with that it's not worth much effort to save a buck.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
--------------------
Pascal
From: Perry, <mailto:Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> Phil
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bulk Wire Order
Ever since the baby showed up about a month ago, my airplane building time
has gone in the drink. But last weekend I fortunately found ~2 hours to
work on the airplane, so hopefully we're getting back on track.
I'm getting ready to place a bulk wire order and I'm curious what sizes seem
to be the ones used most? I'm hoping to standardize on 3-4 sizes and use
the next largest size; even if it's not the smallest size capable of the
load. This way I can minimize how many spools I need to buy and store in
the garage.
Anyone have any recommendations on the sizes they used the most?
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
I put in bilateral Duckworks 50w in the leading edge of wings--great light--during
day towers think it's a turbo airline arriving. No RF problem. I think in
retrospect I would have also put in Vans landing lights in the wing tips --I
don't think you can have too much light--I fly off grass and at night any extra
light is helpful. Advantage of lights in leading edge is that the wing tip
lights get shadowed by the wing itself and don't do as good a job for landing.
IMHO larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300011#300011
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I'll jump in here with my 2 cents. I have a set of the Plane Lights HIDs in my
tips. Each tip also has Bob Archer ants for VOR only.
The ballasts are easy to mount. The power connector to the ballast certainly won't
match Vans anything so expect to splice one side of the connector to whatever
existing wiring you have.
The ballast high tension output wire carries K-Volts and comes with special shielding
and connectors. The output pigtail is maybe 12" and includes a hard-to-mount
inline black rectangular plastic box. I RTV'ed the external box to the rib.
I may go back and add an additional support bracket before flying.
I don't recall my lights coming with any directions, but that may have changed
since as it's been a while.
Be warned that adding a do-it-yourself splice to extend the output side wire length
is asking for trouble down the road (don't ask, but thanks for pointing that
out Bob). 3 foot long wire extensions are available from the vendor, but you
really don't need them if you mount the ballast far enough forward on the outboard
rib.
The HID bulb assembly is a drop in replacement into the Vans standard lighting
mount. The assembly includes integrated bulb, reflector, ceramic mount, ~8" high
tension wires and special connectors. The bulb itself is not removable from
the rest of the assembly.
The lights work as advertised. Bright as heck. I'm not flying and haven't hooked
up radios so the jury is out on how well the solution works. Can always pull
them out if the HF interferes with other electro-goodies.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300012#300012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights |
Please consider either skipping the high-speed taxi, or plan and be
prepared that it might very well be your first flight. The plane
accelerates very rapidly, and could easily surprise you into getting
above lift off speed. IIRC the EAA now advocates against high speed taxi
tests due to significant number of mishaps.
On 6/4/2010 5:51 AM, Richard Barnes wrote:
>
> We had the DAR inspection a few weeks ago, High speed taxi test
> this weekend and first flight next week.
>
> Rick Barnes
>
> Mike Howe
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Barnes" <rickbarnes(at)highlanddental.com> |
| Subject: | HID Landing Lights |
Thanks for the insight. I noticed during the transition training the plane
wants to fly at very low speeds.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HID Landing Lights
Please consider either skipping the high-speed taxi, or plan and be
prepared that it might very well be your first flight. The plane
accelerates very rapidly, and could easily surprise you into getting
above lift off speed. IIRC the EAA now advocates against high speed taxi
tests due to significant number of mishaps.
On 6/4/2010 5:51 AM, Richard Barnes wrote:
>
> We had the DAR inspection a few weeks ago, High speed taxi test
> this weekend and first flight next week.
>
> Rick Barnes
>
> Mike Howe
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Matt,
This is the first time I've gotten this. Is anybody else getting this? Has it
happened before? Any way to prevent it? See below:
"My name is miss Nina, i'm a free minded, open hearted girl i like to take life
as easy as i could, i'm one of the few that still belives in friendship, love,
trust and signs, am very much single and was browsing through the forums.matronics.com
and came across your contact belive me i like what i see, it will be
my sincere pleasure to be your friend if you don't mind, i hope you will not
take my request for granted, feel free to email me i will appreciate it if you
can send me some pics, i look forward to hear from you soon.
Take care.
Nina. " (mis_martha(at)yahoo.com)
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300050#300050
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Man, I thought I was the ONE she was looking for :( I was feeling so
special.
I got it too.
Sean Strasburg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 12:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spam
>
> Hey Matt,
>
> This is the first time I've gotten this. Is anybody else getting this?
> Has it happened before? Any way to prevent it? See below:
>
> "My name is miss Nina, i'm a free minded, open hearted girl i like to take
> life as easy as i could, i'm one of the few that still belives in
> friendship, love, trust and signs, am very much single and was browsing
> through the forums.matronics.com and came across your contact belive me i
> like what i see, it will be my sincere pleasure to be your friend if you
> don't mind, i hope you will not take my request for granted, feel free to
> email me i will appreciate it if you can send me some pics, i look forward
> to hear from you soon.
> Take care.
>
> Nina. " (mis_martha(at)yahoo.com)
>
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Fly off completed !
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300050#300050
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
Nina kept telling me all those other guys were 'just friends.'
I believed her - till now.
Albert Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Bob=2C thanks for getting this together again this year. My wife and I are
planning our first trip to Oshkosh this year and will reserve a site in th
e RV-10HQ area as instructed below. As this will be our first Oshkosh expe
rience=2C I have no idea what the logistics at the field will be other than
we plan to get to Oshkosh on Friday or Saturday before the show. How do t
he guys get their camping stuff from RV parking to the HQ camping site. Sh
uttles=2C carry on your back..??? We are planning on arriving early in hop
es of beating the crowd and besides we want to take in the whole positive e
xperience=2C so we are staying to the end. Having a premo camp site close
to facilities with other RV10'ers will go a long way in making this a pleas
ant week. So any helpful hints on what to bring=2C what not to bring=2C et
c would be most appreciated.
Looking forward to meeting you and the other RV10 families this year.
Regards=2C
Bill Gipson
Conroe=2C Texas
281-814-6006
> Subject: RV10-List: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
> From: bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com
> Date: Thu=2C 3 Jun 2010 08:23:47 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails have
started!
>
> Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who are interested in bei
ng in the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a group of around 25 R
V-10 folks ranging from those just starting the tail kit to those that have
been flying for multiple years. Additionally we=99ve traditionally f
acilitated a couple of large cookouts where those not camping with us can a
ttend =93 typically upwards of 75-100 people including some notable v
endors.
> We will again stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure starts
which is 7/20 this year. Payment is required in advance from the first nig
ht through the Sunday night at the end of Airventure which winds up being 1
3 nights. Price this year is $22 per night which comes out to $286. You can
either mail me a check (contact me offline for address) or use PayPal. Pay
Pal is much easier all the way around but there's a fee of about $9 that th
ey'll take out so if you use that service you'll need to send $295.
>
> Here=99s how it works if you=99re interested:
> Gary=2C Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of the
group. Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making ventu
re. Your campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and wi
ll be paid for with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you le
ave early you will receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site regi
stration on your way out of the campgrounds. I will check with Tim to see i
f he=99s willing to once again have info on his website to facilitate
people leaving early coordinating with others coming late in the week.
>
> Summary=2C if you want a campsite with the group:
> - I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010.
> - If using PayPal=2C please send to bcondrey at cox dot net
> - I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership mu
st be valid through at least August 2010.
> - It would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're plan
ning to arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A=2C tent=2C etc)
> - We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's avai
lable when we get there but our target will be in the same area that we've
been the last few years which is immediately south of Paul=99s Park i
n Camp Scholler (around 55th and Lindbergh).
> - Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of the
camper=2C tent vs. Class A motorhome=2C whether you=99ve got kids=2C
etc. If you don=99t like the location you can swap around when you ge
t there.
> - We=99ll have your car pass=2C etc. at one of our sites and you si
mply call when you get close and somebody meet you at the registration gate
.
> Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on Tim
=99s website at: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
>
> I=99ll post more info and a reminder in a few weeks when it gets cl
oser.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 N442PM (flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299863#299863
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hot
mail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=P
ID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Bill,
The folks that run the RV parking area have a shuttle and are more than
happy to drive folks with their camping gear to the RV-10HQ. With that
said, I don=99t know when the shuttles start running.
If the shuttle isn=99t running, just give somebody a call. All I
can share at the moment, is that some folks have been very resourceful
in providing transportation between the two areas.
This camping guide is a good resource for first timers:
http://www.upaero.com/oshkoshairshowcampingguide.pdf
The first mass arrivals usually start after lunch on Saturday. Last
year=99s cross wind made the arrival a little more entertaining
than usual.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 10:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
Bob, thanks for getting this together again this year. My wife and I
are planning our first trip to Oshkosh this year and will reserve a site
in the RV-10HQ area as instructed below. As this will be our first
Oshkosh experience, I have no idea what the logistics at the field will
be other than we plan to get to Oshkosh on Friday or Saturday before the
show. How do the guys get their camping stuff from RV parking to the HQ
camping site. Shuttles, carry on your back..??? We are planning on
arriving early in hopes of beating the crowd and besides we want to take
in the whole positive experience, so we are staying to the end. Having
a premo camp site close to facilities with other RV10'ers will go a long
way in making this a pleasant week. So any helpful hints on what to
bring, what not to bring, etc would be most appreciated.
Looking forward to meeting you and the other RV10 families this year.
Regards,
Bill Gipson
Conroe, Texas
281-814-6006
> Subject: RV10-List: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
> From: bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com
> Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:23:47 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails
have started!
>
> Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who are interested in
being in the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a group of
around 25 RV-10 folks ranging from those just starting the tail kit to
those that have been flying for multiple years. Additionally
we=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve traditionally facilitated a couple of large
cookouts where those not camping with us can attend
=C3=A2=82=AC=9C typically upwards of 75-100 people including
some notable vendors.
> We will again stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure
starts which is 7/20 this year. Payment is required in advance from the
first night through the Sunday night at the end of Airventure which
winds up being 13 nights. Price this year is $22 per night which comes
out to $286. You can either mail me a check (contact me offline for
address) or use PayPal. PayPal is much easier all the way around but
there's a fee of about $9 that they'll take out so if you use that
service you'll need to send $295.
>
> Here=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s how it works if
you=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2re interested:
> Gary, Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of the
group. Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making
venture. Your campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA
number) and will be paid for with a check rather than a credit card.
This means if you leave early you will receive a check from EAA when you
turn in your site registration on your way out of the campgrounds. I
will check with Tim to see if he=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s willing to
once again have info on his website to facilitate people leaving early
coordinating with others coming late in the week.
>
> Summary, if you want a campsite with the group:
> - I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010.
> - If using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net
> - I will need your EAA number for the registration and your membership
must be valid through at least August 2010.
> - It would be helpful if you'd send me an email with the date you're
planning to arrive and leave and the type of camper (Class A, tent, etc)
> - We'll use our best judgment for the group location based on what's
available when we get there but our target will be in the same area that
we've been the last few years which is immediately south of
Paul=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s Park in Camp Scholler (around 55th and
Lindbergh).
> - Sites get tagged as required using a little logic based on size of
the camper, tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether
you=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve got kids, etc. If you
don=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t like the location you can swap around when
you get there.
> - We=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ll have your car pass, etc. at one of our
sites and you simply call when you get close and somebody meet you at
the registration gate.
> Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on
Tim=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s website at:
www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
>
> I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ll post more info and a reminder in a few
weeks when it gets closer.
>
> Bob
> RV-10 N442PM (flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=299863#299863
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Luther Strickland <lljjss22(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Rear Seat Foam from Van's |
I have an extra set of Vans' rear seat foam for the two seats, including the patterns.
Part number is CA SEAT SET REAR 10. The list price is $315. I will
take $215 including shipping to the lower 48 states. If you are interested please
send me a note to my work e-mail at LJS2(at)pge.com.
Thanks
L. Jearl Strickland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
What rpm is being used for the magneto check and what limits are
considered acceptable? magneto drop? and drop difference?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
1700 RPM
175 Max drop and 50 different
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 2:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: survey
What rpm is being used for the magneto check and what limits are considered
acceptable? magneto drop? and drop difference?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Lycoming, the manufacturer of the powerplant most builders select is the
best source of said numbers to establish a baseline. The advantage is
to determine if timing, wiring, spark or other issues are standing in
the way of making adequate horsepower output which could jeopardize safe
flight and certainly take-off. Each Builder of the RV-10 establishers
their own numbers based on their extensive research before acquiring the
coveted DAR or FAA Inspection Signoff. Choice of spark ignition
systems, compression, internal components, fuel used and other issues
can skew the use of one other builders choice.
Personally, I would run the question passed Rhonda on what the Dyno
tells her dad with the quality units that they provide. They are solid
reference sources for magneto driven powerplants.
Choice wisely.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 2:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: survey
1700 RPM
175 Max drop and 50 different
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 2:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: survey
What rpm is being used for the magneto check and what limits are
considered acceptable? magneto drop? and drop difference?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan is
to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboard of
the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in that area
for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on installing
anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better options
for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
I will have two trucks there Friday(before Oshkosh starts) night and can dr
ive over and shuttle people to the camping area. They shut it down to drivi
ng out there on Sunday or Monday but that is when homebuilt headquarters wi
ll shuttle people. =0AMy cell is 801-718-1277=0A=0A-Scott Schmidt =0A=0ASe
nt from my iPhone=0A=0AOn Jun 5, 2010, at 1:06 PM, "Bob Leffler" wrote:=0A=0ABill,=0A=0A =0A=0AThe folks that run the RV parking
area have a shuttle and are more than happy to drive folks with their campi
ng gear to the RV-10HQ. With that said, I don=99t know when the shu
ttles start running.=0A=0A =0A=0AIf the shuttle isn=99t running, just
give somebody a call. All I can share at the moment, is that some folks h
ave been very resourceful in providing transportation between the two areas
.=0A=0A =0A=0AThis camping guide is a good resource for first timers: http
://www.upaero.com/oshkoshairshowcampingguide.pdf=0A=0A =0A=0AThe first mass
arrivals usually start after lunch on Saturday. Last year=99s cross
wind made the arrival a little more entertaining than usual.=0A=0A =0A=0Ab
ob=0A=0A =0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv1
0-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson=0ASent: Saturday, Jun
e 05, 2010 10:31 AM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List:
2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping=0A=0A =0A=0ABob, thanks for getting this togethe
r again this year. My wife and I are planning our first trip to Oshkosh th
is year and will reserve a site in the RV-10HQ area as instructed below. A
s this will be our first Oshkosh experience, I have no idea what the logist
ics at the field will be other than we plan to get to Oshkosh on Friday or
Saturday before the show. How do the guys get their camping stuff from RV
parking to the HQ camping site. Shuttles, carry on your back..??? We are
planning on arriving early in hopes of beating the crowd and besides we wan
t to take in the whole positive experience, so we are staying to the end.
Having a premo camp site close to facilities with other RV10'ers will go a
long way in making this a pleasant week. So any helpful hints on what to b
ring, what not to bring, etc would be most appreciated. =0A =0ALooking for
ward to meeting you and the other RV10 families this year.=0A =0ARegards,
=0A =0ABill Gipson=0AConroe, Texas=0A281-814-6006=0A =0A> Subject: RV10-Lis
t: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping=0A> From: bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com=0A> Date:
=0A> It's getting to be that time of year because phone calls and emails ha
ve started! =0A> =0A> Gary and I will again stake out sites for those who a
re interested in being in the RV-10 HQ area. In past years this has been a
group of around 25 RV-10 folks ranging from those just starting the tail ki
t to those that have been flying for multiple years. Additionally we=C3=A2
=82=AC=84=A2ve traditionally facilitated a couple of large cookouts w
here those not camping with us can attend =C3=A2=82=AC=9C typicall
y upwards of 75-100 people including some notable vendors.=0A> We will agai
n stake out the sites on the Tuesday before Airventure starts which is 7/20
this year. Payment is required in advance from the first night through the
Sunday night at the end of Airventure which winds up being 13 nights. Pric
e this year is $22 per night which comes out to $286. You can either mail m
e a check (contact me offline for address) or use PayPal. PayPal is much ea
sier all the way around but there's a fee of about $9 that they'll take out
so if you use that service you'll need to send $295. =0A> =0A> Here=C3=A2
=82=AC=84=A2s how it works if you=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2re intereste
d:=0A> Gary, Tim and I (and wives) simply facilitate this for the good of t
he group. Cost is actual cost of the sites - this is not a profit making ve
nture. Your campsite will be in your name (I will need your EAA number) and
will be paid for with a check rather than a credit card. This means if you
leave early you will receive a check from EAA when you turn in your site r
egistration on your way out of the campgrounds. I will check with Tim to se
e if he=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s willing to once again have info on his web
site to facilitate people leaving early coordinating with others coming lat
e in the week. =0A> =0A> Summary, if you want a campsite with the group:
=0A> - I need $286 from you ($295 if using PayPal) no later than 7/14/2010.
=0A> - If using PayPal, please send to bcondrey at cox dot net =0A> - I wil
l need your EAA number for the registration and your membership must be val
id through at least August 2010.=0A> - It would be helpful if you'd send me
an email with the date you're planning to arrive and leave and the type of
camper (Class A, tent, etc) =0A> - We'll use our best judgment for the gro
up location based on what's available when we get there but our target will
be in the same area that we've been the last few years which is immediatel
y south of Paul=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s Park in Camp Scholler (around 55th
and Lindbergh).=0A> - Sites get tagged as required using a little logic ba
sed on size of the camper, tent vs. Class A motorhome, whether you=C3=A2
=82=AC=84=A2ve got kids, etc. If you don=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t like t
he location you can swap around when you get there. =0A> - We=C3=A2=82
=AC=84=A2ll have your car pass, etc. at one of our sites and you simply
call when you get close and somebody meet you at the registration gate.=0A>
Most questions can be answered with the info from last year on Tim=C3=A2
=82=AC=84=A2s website at: www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html =0A>
=0A> I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ll post more info and a reminder in a few wee
ks when it gets closer. =0A> =0A> Bob =0A> RV-10 N442PM (flying)=0A> =0A>
=0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http://forums.matronic
-========================
============0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT antenna
and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan is
> to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboard of
> the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in that area
> for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on installing
> anything where access is a problem.
>
> Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better options
> for these antennas?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT antenna
and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan is
to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboard of
the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in that area
for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on installing
anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better options
for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122's.
Flip through the folder:
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
Perhaps he can give a report.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of
wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip
Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation
you can get, the better. Of course you also need to consider separation
from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and
inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection
panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am
not keen on installing anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
options for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back seat
,
not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I believe the
number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but that is hard to
achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less. I can tell you that
belly mounted antennas are not going to have stellar performance when on th
e
ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to ground control or a nearby
remote outlet for picking up a clearance, there is a benefit from having on
e
antenna more elevated than possible on the belly. I have one on belly and
one on top of fuselage on my Mooney. Not even airborne at altitude does the
belly mounted antenna give better reception than the top mounted, and on th
e
ground the belly mounted does lose reception depending on position on the
airport.
I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I wouldn'
t
want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it would be
desirable to have both there.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122=92s.
>
>
> Flip through the folder:
>
> http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
>
>
> Perhaps he can give a report.
>
>
> Phil
>
>
> *From:* Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>
>
> Kelley
>
>
> Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly McMullen
> *Sent:* June-05-10 7:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>
> Les,
> That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas withi
n
> about 2 ft of each other is not good.
> I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of win
g
> or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
> between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna,
an
> antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
> better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT ante
nna
> and from GPS antenna.
>
> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
> I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is
> to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboard
of
> the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in that ar
ea
> for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on installing
> anything where access is a problem.
>
>
> Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better optio
ns
> for these antennas?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I agree with Kelly,
I installed one comm on the bottom under the rear seats and I have one going on
the top.
I've had numerous occasions in the citation when ground or clearance won't hear
me on the bottom antenna and when I switch over to the number two, which is on
the top, they have me 5 by 5. After I taxi out to the runway I can switch back
to the bottom and speak to tower. The bottom is also better when airborne.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300200#300200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Yeah, that's true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward and that
gives a little bit of extra space between them.
I'd still be interested in knowing how it's working out though.
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back
seat, not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I
believe the number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but
that is hard to achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less. I
can tell you that belly mounted antennas are not going to have stellar
performance when on the ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to
ground control or a nearby remote outlet for picking up a clearance,
there is a benefit from having one antenna more elevated than possible
on the belly. I have one on belly and one on top of fuselage on my
Mooney. Not even airborne at altitude does the belly mounted antenna
give better reception than the top mounted, and on the ground the belly
mounted does lose reception depending on position on the airport.
I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I
wouldn't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it
would be desirable to have both there.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil
wrote:
This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122's.
Flip through the folder:
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
Perhaps he can give a report.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of
wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip
Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation
you can get, the better. Of course you also need to consider separation
from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and
inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection
panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am
not keen on installing anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
options for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
I've not experienced any problems with ground operations. once caveat
however, I have not had occasion to contact a remote facility while on
the ground.
Deems
On 6/6/2010 6:51 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Yeah, that's true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward and that
> gives a little bit of extra space between them.
>
> I'd still be interested in knowing how it's working out though.
>
> *From:* Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>
> I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back
> seat, not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I
> believe the number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but
> that is hard to achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less.
> I can tell you that belly mounted antennas are not going to have
> stellar performance when on the ground. Whether it is difficulty
> talking to ground control or a nearby remote outlet for picking up a
> clearance, there is a benefit from having one antenna more elevated
> than possible on the belly. I have one on belly and one on top of
> fuselage on my Mooney. Not even airborne at altitude does the belly
> mounted antenna give better reception than the top mounted, and on the
> ground the belly mounted does lose reception depending on position on
> the airport.
>
> I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I
> wouldn't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it
> would be desirable to have both there.
>
> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil > wrote:
>
> This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122's.
>
> Flip through the folder:
>
> http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
>
> Perhaps he can give a report.
>
> Phil
>
> *From:* Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca ]
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
>
>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>
> Kelley
>
> Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* June-05-10 7:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>
> Les,
> That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
> within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
> I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of
> wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
> separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer
> wingtip Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more
> separation you can get, the better. Of course you also need to
> consider separation from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
>
> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney > wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My
> plan is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft
> and inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection
> panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am
> not keen on installing anything where access is a problem.
>
> Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
> options for these antennas?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> #40643
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I had mine in the same position, and had a problem communicating with
towers on the lower end of the frequency spectrum (118.1 --118.3). So I
moved one of the antennas up to the top and left the other on the
bottom. Have not seen any problems since.
For ref: Home field, KOGD (Ogden Utah) Tower 118, never had a problem
Problems encountered: Boise (KBOI) Tower 118.1
Salt Lake City (KSLC) Tower 118.3
Problems encounter during ground operations all the times except once,
they could not hear me one time after I was initially handed
off..at least that is what they said
Just my experience. I noticed a .12673 Knot decrease in cruise speed
with the antenna change..just kidding of course.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
I've got mine located wher Deems has his and haven't had an issue in
over 2 years of flying that way.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun Jun 06 06:51:08 2010
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Yeah, that=99s true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward and
that gives a little bit of extra space between them.
I=99d still be interested in knowing how it=99s working out
though.
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back
seat, not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I
believe the number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but
that is hard to achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less. I
can tell you that belly mounted antennas are not going to have stellar
performance when on the ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to
ground control or a nearby remote outlet for picking up a clearance,
there is a benefit from having one antenna more elevated than possible
on the belly. I have one on belly and one on top of fuselage on my
Mooney. Not even airborne at altitude does the belly mounted antenna
give better reception than the top mounted, and on the ground the belly
mounted does lose reception depending on position on the airport.
I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I
wouldn't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it
would be desirable to have both there.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil
wrote:
This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122=99s.
Flip through the folder:
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
Perhaps he can give a report.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of
wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip
Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation
you can get, the better. Of course you also need to consider separation
from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and
inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection
panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am
not keen on installing anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
options for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
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~=EF=BD=DE=83g(=D3=8D=D3=87qzn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu> |
Agree with Kelly on this. Even Cirrus with their all composite airframes
have one antenna on the top and the other on the belly. Certainly if one
wants to follow function over form and there is no concern for remote ground
reception, dual belly antennas will be fine.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Les,
> That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
> about 2 ft of each other is not good.
> I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
> or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
> between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
> antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
> better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT antenna
> and from GPS antenna.
>
--
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/antenna.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
No problems here either. Maybe metal whips are less prone to issues
due to size/design?
Tim
On Jun 6, 2010, at 9:14 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
> I've not experienced any problems with ground operations. once
> caveat however, I have not had occasion to contact a remote facility
> while on the ground.
>
> Deems
>
> On 6/6/2010 6:51 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, that=99s true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward
and t
>> hat gives a little bit of extra space between them.
>>
>> I=99d still be interested in knowing how it=99s working
out though.
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
>> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>>
>> I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the
>> back seat, not inside of the step mount. That allows more
>> separation. I believe the number generally recommended is 4 ft
>> between antennas, but that is hard to achieve and you probably can
>> get away with a bit less. I can tell you that belly mounted
>> antennas are not going to have stellar performance when on the
>> ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to ground control or a
>> nearby remote outlet for picking up a clearance, there is a benefit
>> from having one antenna more elevated than possible on the belly.
>> I have one on belly and one on top of fuselage on my Mooney. Not
>> even airborne at altitude does the belly mounted antenna give
>> better reception than the top mounted, and on the ground the belly
>> mounted does lose reception depending on position on the airport.
>>
>> I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I
>> wouldn't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it
>> would be desirable to have both there.
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil
>> wrote:
>> This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122=99s.
>>
>> Flip through the folder:
>> http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
>>
>> Perhaps he can give a report.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
>> Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
>>
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>>
>> Kelley
>>
>> Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure
>> tomorrow.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
>> Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
>>
>> Les,
>> That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
>> within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
>> I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside
>> of wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
>> separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer
>> wingtip Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The
>> more separation you can get, the better. Of course you also need to
>> consider separation from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>> I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My
>> plan is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just
>> aft and inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have
>> inspection panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a
>> good choice. I am not keen on installing anything where access is a
>> problem.
>>
>> Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
>> options for these antennas?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>> #40643
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
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>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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ntribution
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
We had long ago installed flush static ports, before hearing how they
end up being less accurate than those with a slight outward bump. I
don't feel like crawling back in the tailcone and replacing the existing
ports.
Any opinions on the efficacy of gluing a washer or other small metal
disk on top of the flush port, with an appropriately-sized hole leading
into the port itself?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Same exact problem I had on my 8A.
I drilled a 1/16=94 hole in the center of a couple of 1/8=94 AN470
rivets.
After drilling the hole I used a Dremmel tool to cut off the rivet
shank,
then sanded flush. I used JB Weld to epoxy the rivet heads to the flush
static ports, putting a shaved down toothpick in the hole to both hold
it in
place while the epoxy cured and to keep the hole clear. Photos
attached.
After 200 hrs still working perfectly.
For the RV-10 I=92m using a couple of 3/16=94 AN470 rivets with a
1/16=94 hole
drilled through the head and the rivet shank. I=92ll just epoxy the
whole
rivet in, then glue on the =BC=94 static line over the rivet shank.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (540 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 12:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: static port
We had long ago installed flush static ports, before hearing how they
end up
being less accurate than those with a slight outward bump. I don=92t
feel
like crawling back in the tailcone and replacing the existing ports.
Any opinions on the efficacy of gluing a washer or other small metal
disk on
top of the flush port, with an appropriately-sized hole leading into the
port itself?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
does the transponder antenna need to be considered and what about ads-b tr
ansceiver antenna? nav and gps are receive only but do they need to be con
sidered?I am not a fan of the archer ant for an ifr ship,in my experince
they are quirky(I think thats a word).
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 8:26 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
No problems here either. Maybe metal whips are less prone to issues due to
size/design?
Tim
On Jun 6, 2010, at 9:14 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
I've not experienced any problems with ground operations. once caveat howe
ver, I have not had occasion to contact a remote facility while on the gro
und.
Deems
On 6/6/2010 6:51 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
Yeah, that=99s true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward and
that gives a little bit of extra space between them.
I=99d still be interested in knowing how it=99s working out th
ough.
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back sea
t, not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I believe th
e number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but that is hard
to achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less. I can tell you
that belly mounted antennas are not going to have stellar performance whe
n on the ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to ground control or a
nearby remote outlet for picking up a clearance, there is a benefit from
having one antenna more elevated than possible on the belly. I have one
on belly and one on top of fuselage on my Mooney. Not even airborne at al
titude does the belly mounted antenna give better reception than the top
mounted, and on the ground the belly mounted does lose reception dependin
g on position on the airport.
I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I wouldn
't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it would be des
irable to have both there.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122=99s.
Flip through the folder:
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
Perhaps he can give a report.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation bet
ween antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT ante
nna and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboa
rd of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in th
at area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on ins
talling anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better option
s for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Kevin Horton had some great info about fixing static port errors. I
believe it was in one of his articles in Kitplanes.
David Maib
40559
On Jun 6, 2010, at 12:42 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
We had long ago installed flush static ports, before hearing how they
end up being less accurate than those with a slight outward bump. I
don=92t feel like crawling back in the tailcone and replacing the
existing ports.
Any opinions on the efficacy of gluing a washer or other small metal
disk on top of the flush port, with an appropriately-sized hole
leading into the port itself?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Short answer, Yes
GPS needs to be on top. Cat whiskers can go on the top of the
vertical or on the bottom of the tail, since you aren=99t using
the archer (I=99m not a fan either). While Commant states that
they should point forward, there are many RVs with them pointing aft
underneath the empennage. I would also suggest reading the install
manual for your ads-b equipment. NavWork is pretty up front, for an
example, here=99s an excerpt:
I haven=99t put in either of these yet, but I=99m thinking
the transponder will go in the tunnel near the firewall and the ADS-B
will be back by the battery someplace.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
does the transponder antenna need to be considered and what about ads-b
transceiver antenna? nav and gps are receive only but do they need to be
considered?I am not a fan of the archer ant for an ifr ship,in my
experince they are quirky(I think thats a word).
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 8:26 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
No problems here either. Maybe metal whips are less prone to issues due
to size/design?
Tim
On Jun 6, 2010, at 9:14 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
I've not experienced any problems with ground operations. once caveat
however, I have not had occasion to contact a remote facility while on
the ground.
Deems
On 6/6/2010 6:51 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
Yeah, that=99s true Kelly. Deems are a little further forward and
that gives a little bit of extra space between them.
I=99d still be interested in knowing how it=99s working out
though.
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
I believe if you look carefully, Deems put his antennas under the back
seat, not inside of the step mount. That allows more separation. I
believe the number generally recommended is 4 ft between antennas, but
that is hard to achieve and you probably can get away with a bit less. I
can tell you that belly mounted antennas are not going to have stellar
performance when on the ground. Whether it is difficulty talking to
ground control or a nearby remote outlet for picking up a clearance,
there is a benefit from having one antenna more elevated than possible
on the belly. I have one on belly and one on top of fuselage on my
Mooney. Not even airborne at altitude does the belly mounted antenna
give better reception than the top mounted, and on the ground the belly
mounted does lose reception depending on position on the airport.
I think where Les is proposing would be good for one antenna, but I
wouldn't want it too close to the steps, and I still don't think it
would be desirable to have both there.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Perry, Phil
wrote:
This is exactly the place where Deems installed his CI-122=99s.
Flip through the folder:
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2033%20Baggage%20Area/index.html
Perhaps he can give a report.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Kelley
Is 3 ft the magic number? If so, I might be okay. I'll measure tomorrow.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: June-05-10 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas
within about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of
wing or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft
separation between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip
Com antenna, an antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation
you can get, the better. Of course you also need to consider separation
from your ELT antenna and from GPS antenna.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and
inboard of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection
panels in that area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am
not keen on installing anything where access is a problem.
Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
options for these antennas?
Cheers
Les
#40643
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2010 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
The shuttles were running Friday at 1pm when we got there last year.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300258#300258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
My com antennas are where Deems and most others have reported, below
rear seat floors with good performance. Transponder is on belly
centerline about 10 inches aft of firewall. In the past few months I
have been getting an occasional report of intermittent response, seems
to be when the radar sight is on the nose at relatively close range,
most sites report normal ops after a few minutes of outage at most. VOR
is Archer in wing tip, works fine.
I have a back up GPS and XM antennas mounted on the firewall under the
top cowling, they both work fine.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 285 hours
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2010 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
does the transponder antenna need to be considered and what about ads-b
transceiver antenna? nav and gps are receive only but do they need to be
considered?I am not a fan of the archer ant for an ifr ship,in my
experince they are quirky(I think thats a word).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Thanks for all the info on comm antennas.
Checking out my planned placement, I realise that anyone accessing the
baggage area coold accidently interfere with the antenna (luggage on ground
etc). Not wanting to pull my floor pans or to install anything where it is
inaccessible, I have decided to put one antenna in the tunnel just aft of
the seats and off center (so it doesn't interfere with the control tubes).
The other will go on the centerline in the empennage about 4' aft of the
first.
In retrospect and given the comments from Kelly et al, I like the idea of
having one antenna completely clear of wings, gear and steps. I really would
like to avoid an antenna on top (other than the GPS puck.
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Woods" <twoods(at)sesa.af> |
My empennage kit just arrived!
New Zealand has its second RV10 underway. Let the journey begin.
Tony
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Monday, 7 June 2010 3:13 a.m.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Comm Antennas
Agree with Kelly on this. Even Cirrus with their all composite airframes
have one antenna on the top and the other on the belly. Certainly if one
wants to follow function over form and there is no concern for remote ground
reception, dual belly antennas will be fine.
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Les,
That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
about 2 ft of each other is not good.
I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT antenna
and from GPS antenna.
--
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/antenna.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kiwi RV-10 #2 |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Builder number?
Kelly
40866
On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 7:53 PM, Tony Woods wrote:
> My empennage kit just arrived!
>
>
> New Zealand has its second RV10 underway. Let the journey begin.
>
>
> Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Woods" <twoods(at)sesa.af> |
Builder 40583. And yep - I think this kit has sat in a garage for several
years... Now it is scattered all over the lounge :-)
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, 7 June 2010 3:00 p.m.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Kiwi RV-10 #2
Builder number?
Kelly
40866
On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 7:53 PM, Tony Woods wrote:
> My empennage kit just arrived!
>
>
> New Zealand has its second RV10 underway. Let the journey begin.
>
>
> Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antenna |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
With the antenna mounted that far aft you might want to verify that the tail hits
the ground before the antenna.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300307#300307
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Great Lakes RV Gathering |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
All, just a reminder that this coming Saturday June 12 we will be hosting the Great
Lakes RV Gathering @ KSBM. Thanks to everyone who has replied so far, if
you plan to attend please let us know so we can have enough lunch for everyone.
We will kick it off at 10, lunch around 12.
All RVer's, all stages welcome.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300308#300308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
consider one Dorne & Margolen (DM) antenna on the belly with a diplexer
inside of the airplane. The DM antenna will increase your range
substantially and the diplexer will eliminate the need for 2 antennae. I
noticed that after I installed the DM antenna (removed the comants) my range
increased by at least 50 percent.
good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233m
the fast one
On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 8:59 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Les,
> That might be a good location for one antenna. Putting two antennas within
> about 2 ft of each other is not good.
> I'd consider either mounting one near an access panel on underside of wing
> or far enough back in the tail cone to have more than 3 ft separation
> between antennas. Alternatives include a Bob Archer wingtip Com antenna, an
> antenna on the top of the fuselage. The more separation you can get, the
> better. Of course you also need to consider separation from your ELT antenna
> and from GPS antenna.
>
> On Sat, Jun 5, 2010 at 5:04 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am planning on installing two Comant CI-122 antennas tomorrow. My plan
>> is to fab doublers and install the antennas / doublers just aft and inboard
>> of the fuse steps. My reason for this is I have inspection panels in that
>> area for the steps so it seems like a good choice. I am not keen on
>> installing anything where access is a problem.
>>
>> Can anyone thing of reasons to not do what I plan? Are there better
>> options for these antennas?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>> #40643
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Watterson" <davidw(at)dddirectories.com> |
1800 rpm...1620-1640, 20 drop difference
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 3:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: survey
What rpm is being used for the magneto check and what limits are considered
acceptable? magneto drop? and drop difference?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I was getting similar drops as David indicated when doing Mag checks @
1800. I now do them @ 2000 RPM and see a drop of only 100 RPM.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 6/7/2010 6:36 AM, David Watterson wrote:
>
> 1800 rpm.....1620-1640, 20 drop difference
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 05, 2010 3:13 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: survey
>
> What rpm is being used for the magneto check and what limits are
> considered acceptable? magneto drop? and drop difference?
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ADS-B: Transfering cost to the owner. |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm not sure if any of you saw this, but I found it on the EAA's site
this morning. It's worth reading.
Full Article......
http://www.eaa.org/news/2010/2010-06-03_ads-b.asp
---Snip---Snip---
EAA has long favored a satellite-based tracking system, provided that it
would benefit aircraft operators as well as the national airspace
system. Unfortunately, FAA has only mandated what's called ADS-B (out),
which sends tracking information to the air traffic system.
EAA has long held that the benefit to pilots would be from systems that
allow us to receive traffic, weather, and safety information in the
cockpit (ADS-B in). Without that element, the new mandate directly
serves only FAA air traffic control.
"What this new rule does is shift the cost of aircraft tracking from the
government's mammoth ground-based radar systems to the cockpit and the
individual pilot," said Doug Macnair, EAA's vice president of government
relations. "It makes sense to migrate to new satellite-based technology
based on ADS-B, which would replace existing transponders and encoders.
But if the aircraft owner has to pay for it, pilots should also receive
substantial safety and operational benefits."
---Snip---Snip---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Comm Antennas |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I don't think the last suggestion will work. The usual passive splitter (diplexer?)
will allow half the transmitter power to go directly into the second com
radio--not good. Also these matched splitters may or may not handle thepower.
If you put an active switch for the diplexer then you won't be able to hear on
both radios simultaneously.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300363#300363
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just as a baseline:
We had the original GEM (slow) probes in a 182 and after 1500+ hours no probes
had yet failed. However, I think "fast" probes are thinner and will give less
service life than "slow" probes.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300365#300365
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ADS-B: Transfering cost to the owner. |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 losses against the finite pool of insured's |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
A few of us were Hangar talking on a soggy dark day a little while ago
about what is now the 4 total loss of a finished RV-10s against the
fleet of over 300 successful ones. Now owners are beginning to pay
increasing premiums to cover those losses. It is some Real Money
charges passed back onto the remaining pool with a dwindling number of
companies wanting to insure us. After the resent loss of an Alternate
Engine RV-10 in Georgia, it was mentioned that 50% of those losses were
these (an alarming percentage of the Alternate RV-10 Fleet) and a
question raised at what might be a short list of some of the various
conditions to look for. There is seldom a simple answer and always lots
of discussion which can be a good thing or frustrating. I don't think
it's the Alternate Engine choice.
As an EAA Tech Advisor, occasionally I am asked about Vans coiled
aluminum lines, B nuts, ferrules and the like. Also I am asked as to
the merits and costs of Bonaco pre-fabricated products. Attached
herewith is an excellent post on hydraulic lines, It just as easily
could have been "Fuel" lines on one of our RV-10s. (Note: The PDF
attachment is 290K for our bandwidth restricted brethren). Too often,
the builders of Experimental Built/Amateur maintained aircraft are yet
to get up to speed on the latest fabrication techniques, effective
flushing of an installed system and proper torqueing of B nuts. Much is
the result of poor preparation and brutal torqueing forces by operators.
Kinks, chafes, constrictions , FOD and distorted mating surfaces came to
light. Quality Control and a second set of eyes can certain not hurt.
I doubt we will ever hear that such a boring subject actually
contributed to the loss of the most recent RV-10. Hopefully a few
builders out there may find value in a road traveled by an earlier
builder with fabricated lines. The pictures drive home what we are
looking for in a successful Tech inspection. Some value may be applied
to future RV-10 operations.
Just fanning the fumes of controversy before packing up for the
pilgrimage to OSH. Our prayers remain which those who travel before us
and contribute to the pool of our aviation experiences. <>
John Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brother's keepers |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
In light of John's post about some losses and insurance rates, I have decided to
express some thoughts that I have been having for a while.
I just got involved in this community right about the time of the tragic accident
of a builder who crashed and died in his RV-10. What seemed odd to me as a
new member of the fraternity was all of the retrospective thoughts by those who
knew the guy well about red flags that they had seen during his building and
flying process. Apparently the guy was popular and well liked and people didn't
step forward when they saw things that concerned them.
I thought about that again when I recently read about a guy who launched his first
flight (successfully) without a functioning generator. I can see how any
of us, myself included, can get all wrapped up in the first flight hoopla, that
we take a chance on something that we wouldn't have otherwise done.
None of us are wiser than any other. The lowliest student pilot can catch something
that the most experienced ATP can miss. It doesn't do any good however,
if nobody speaks up out of fear of offending someone.
Every crash is not only tragic, but it costs each and every one of us dearly out
of our own pocketbooks either directly or indirectly. Immediately or down the
road we are each eventually going to pay for every accident.
As a community, we need to hunker down and police ourselves. We need to comment
forcefully on red flags, unwise practices, and the like, and foster more vigilance
and commitment to building and flying in the safest manner possible.
Friends don't let friends push the envelope. I need and request everyone's help
to keep from doing something stupid. The safety of the RV-10 community is in
our hands until things deteriorate to the point that unwanted hands step in
with onerous regulation and/or prohibitive cost.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300389#300389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brother's keepers |
Negative Ghost Rider.....Lots of us stepped in, i.e. Horse, water, shown water,
refused to drink. Lots of people attempted to guide Dan, even to the point of
not telling him any more info that may allegedly use to allow him to skirt the
processes.
---- woxofswa wrote:
>
> In light of John's post about some losses and insurance rates, I have decided
to express some thoughts that I have been having for a while.
>
> I just got involved in this community right about the time of the tragic accident
of a builder who crashed and died in his RV-10. What seemed odd to me as
a new member of the fraternity was all of the retrospective thoughts by those
who knew the guy well about red flags that they had seen during his building
and flying process. Apparently the guy was popular and well liked and people
didn't step forward when they saw things that concerned them.
>
> I thought about that again when I recently read about a guy who launched his
first flight (successfully) without a functioning generator. I can see how any
of us, myself included, can get all wrapped up in the first flight hoopla, that
we take a chance on something that we wouldn't have otherwise done.
>
> None of us are wiser than any other. The lowliest student pilot can catch something
that the most experienced ATP can miss. It doesn't do any good however,
if nobody speaks up out of fear of offending someone.
>
> Every crash is not only tragic, but it costs each and every one of us dearly
out of our own pocketbooks either directly or indirectly. Immediately or down
the road we are each eventually going to pay for every accident.
>
> As a community, we need to hunker down and police ourselves. We need to comment
forcefully on red flags, unwise practices, and the like, and foster more vigilance
and commitment to building and flying in the safest manner possible.
>
> Friends don't let friends push the envelope. I need and request everyone's help
to keep from doing something stupid. The safety of the RV-10 community is
in our hands until things deteriorate to the point that unwanted hands step in
with onerous regulation and/or prohibitive cost.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300389#300389
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brother's keepers |
I'll confirm Rick's statement.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon Jun 07 14:02:30 2010
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brother's keepers
Negative Ghost Rider.....Lots of us stepped in, i.e. Horse, water, shown water,
refused to drink. Lots of people attempted to guide Dan, even to the point of
not telling him any more info that may allegedly use to allow him to skirt the
processes.
---- woxofswa wrote:
>
> In light of John's post about some losses and insurance rates, I have decided
to express some thoughts that I have been having for a while.
>
> I just got involved in this community right about the time of the tragic accident
of a builder who crashed and died in his RV-10. What seemed odd to me as
a new member of the fraternity was all of the retrospective thoughts by those
who knew the guy well about red flags that they had seen during his building
and flying process. Apparently the guy was popular and well liked and people
didn't step forward when they saw things that concerned them.
>
> I thought about that again when I recently read about a guy who launched his
first flight (successfully) without a functioning generator. I can see how any
of us, myself included, can get all wrapped up in the first flight hoopla, that
we take a chance on something that we wouldn't have otherwise done.
>
> None of us are wiser than any other. The lowliest student pilot can catch something
that the most experienced ATP can miss. It doesn't do any good however,
if nobody speaks up out of fear of offending someone.
>
> Every crash is not only tragic, but it costs each and every one of us dearly
out of our own pocketbooks either directly or indirectly. Immediately or down
the road we are each eventually going to pay for every accident.
>
> As a community, we need to hunker down and police ourselves. We need to comment
forcefully on red flags, unwise practices, and the like, and foster more vigilance
and commitment to building and flying in the safest manner possible.
>
> Friends don't let friends push the envelope. I need and request everyone's help
to keep from doing something stupid. The safety of the RV-10 community is
in our hands until things deteriorate to the point that unwanted hands step in
with onerous regulation and/or prohibitive cost.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300389#300389
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 losses against the finite pool of insured's |
John=2C
Nice article. i've made a hard copy to keep in the basement to refer for to
rque values. I'm replacing the few aluminum lines I've already installed wi
th SS as I believe they are much better. I'm really "anal" about torquing a
nd then marking every nut and bolt installed. However=2C one brake line tha
t I had previously installed didn't even have a flare on it. How the heck d
id that happen??? Must have been those dang elves that work on my plane a
t night forgot to put a flare on. I'm gonna have words with them! Thanks ag
ain. Dan
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 losses against the finite pool of insured's
Date: Mon=2C 7 Jun 2010 11:38:04 -0700
From: johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
RV-10 losses against the finite pool of insured's
A few of us were Hangar talking on a soggy dark day a little while ago abou
t what is now the 4 total loss of a finished RV-10s against the fleet of ov
er 300 successful ones. Now owners are beginning to pay increasing premium
s to cover those losses. It is some Real Money charges passed back onto th
e remaining pool with a dwindling number of companies wanting to insure us.
After the resent loss of an Alternate Engine RV-10 in Georgia=2C it was m
entioned that 50% of those losses were these (an alarming percentage of the
Alternate RV-10 Fleet) and a question raised at what might be a short list
of some of the various conditions to look for. There is seldom a simple a
nswer and always lots of discussion which can be a good thing or frustratin
g. I don't think it=92s the Alternate Engine choice.
As an EAA Tech Advisor=2C occasionally I am asked about Vans coiled alumin
um lines=2C B nuts=2C ferrules and the like. Also I am asked as to the me
rits and costs of Bonaco pre-fabricated products. Attached herewith is an
excellent post on hydraulic lines=2C It just as easily could have been "Fue
l" lines on one of our RV-10s. (Note: The PDF attachment is 290K for our b
andwidth restricted brethren). Too often=2C the builders of Experimental Bu
ilt/Amateur maintained aircraft are yet to get up to speed on the latest fa
brication techniques=2C effective flushing of an installed system and prope
r torqueing of B nuts. Much is the result of poor preparation and brutal t
orqueing forces by operators. Kinks=2C chafes=2C constrictions =2C FOD and
distorted mating surfaces came to light. Quality Control and a second set
of eyes can certain not hurt.
I doubt we will ever hear that such a boring subject actually contributed t
o the loss of the most recent RV-10. Hopefully a few builders out there ma
y find value in a road traveled by an earlier builder with fabricated lines
. The pictures drive home what we are looking for in a successful Tech ins
pection. Some value may be applied to future RV-10 operations.
Just fanning the fumes of controversy before packing up for the pilgrimage
to OSH. Our prayers remain which those who travel before us and contribute
to the pool of our aviation experiences. <>
John Cox
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hot
mail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=P
ID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brother's keepers |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
>>Negative Ghost Rider
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300407#300407
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Surpise |
My finish kit arrived yesterday. I was surprised by the gray primer on
the cowl. I guess that's something new Van's is doing these days.
bob
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP07062010A0002L.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Surpise |
Looks like a nice get coat. Shucks we can't make comments about your pink
plane.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 4:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
My finish kit arrived yesterday. I was surprised by the gray primer on
the cowl. I guess that's something new Van's is doing these days.
bob
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP07062010A0002L.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Hopefully someone will save us with a uncertified (i.e. less expensive)
ADS-B unit.
Don't forget those AOPA cost estimates are probably for factory
certified aircraft, so they have to count at least $1000 for
installation, maybe more, depending on antenna locations, etc. Plus STC
costs need to be absorbed somewhere.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Melchert" <pilotmelch(at)omnav.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Surpise |
Not sure if this is the same, but the more modern composite plane
manufacturers are spraying a coat of primer into the mold before the
layup/cloth or pre-preg is laid in. This is not a gel-coat (gel coat is
polyester based and won't stick to a pure epoxy matrix), but is instead a
primer layer. Having it be the first layer in the mold layup does many
things: 1) pre-primes the part for the builder J, 2) pre-fills the pinholes
in a way that won't allow them to reappear later J J, 3) provides a sure
bond between the primer and epoxy matrix since the epoxy cures to it.
If this is what Van's is doing now - great!
John Melchert
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 7:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
Looks like a nice get coat. Shucks we can't make comments about your pink
plane.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 4:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
My finish kit arrived yesterday. I was surprised by the gray primer on
the cowl. I guess that's something new Van's is doing these days.
bob
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP07062010A0002L.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brother's keepers |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
In retrospect I should have found a way to press my message forward without reference
to the past.
I didn't mean any disrespect or to resurrect painful memories. For that I apologize.
I now more fully understand the herculean efforts that the community has made in
the past to help members.
The community of builders is one of the greatest assets and motivators to this
avocation. Let's keep it up.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300542#300542
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wtb IO540 starter ring gear & support |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Looking to buy a starter ring gear assembly for my IO540C4B5, maybe someone who
has installed A/C on an rv10 that still has the original single belt assembly.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300546#300546
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | When to run wires/static port etc |
About to attach the tail cone to the fuselage. What wiring and other work should
I do before I attach, any?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300555#300555
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Surpise |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I wonder if Vans has changed vendors for the cowl. I am generally pleased with
the kit, but I thought the QC on the cowl was lacking.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300556#300556
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wtb IO540 starter ring gear & support |
| From: | tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com |
Dave,
I know a guy who has one. He said $350.
Tom
tom.on.the.road(at)juno.com
970-420-1798
>
> Looking to buy a starter ring gear assembly for my IO540C4B5, maybe
> someone who has installed A/C on an rv10 that still has the original
> single belt assembly.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300546#300546
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
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Compare Low-Cost Health Plans Online. Blue Cross, Aetna and more.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wtb IO540 starter ring gear & support |
I have a dual belt ring I'd like to sell if anyone needs it!
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 8, 2010, at 1:17 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> Looking to buy a starter ring gear assembly for my IO540C4B5, maybe
> someone who has installed A/C on an rv10 that still has the original
> single belt assembly.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300546#300546
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misc topics... First flight, Insurance, Rudder lock |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group...
First things first. We made the first flight of N277CK, kit # 40761 over the Memorial
Day weekend. Flys great. (There are some pictures at dougandlinda.smugmug.com
in the rv10-all folder. Look to the end if interested.) Burning fuel
most every night. Following the general path of AC90-89B test flights.
For a reference point for John's earlier post, my insurance quote went up around
$1,000 for $175k hull from Dec to June. I'm about a 1000 hour instrument rated
SEL with around 500 hours in a RV7A.
Most important question... Any recommendations for a good rudder lock for the -10.
I used the spring loaded rod that fits on the rudder pedals for the -7A.
Unfortunately, I also now have a 3 inch hole covered with duct tape in the rudder
surface of the 7A where this lock failed to hold and the rudder stops broke
after the rudder flopped around in the wind.
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300570#300570
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Finish Kit Surpise |
Item #2 is not necessarily true=2C you just might not be able to see the pi
nholes and larger void=2C but that doesn't mean they aren't there.
The Nomex=2C honey comb sandwich material in the cowl certainly can allow f
or huge voids where the edge of the honeycomb is keeping the first layer of
glass against the mold=2C but the area in the middle of the cell structure
allows the glass to come off the mold=2C thus the alligator scale like ski
n.
From: pilotmelch(at)omnav.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
Date: Tue=2C 8 Jun 2010 10:48:50 -0500
Not sure if this is the same=2C but the more modern composite plane manufac
turers are spraying a coat of primer into the mold before the layup/cloth o
r pre-preg is laid in. This is not a gel-coat (gel coat is polyester based
and won=92t stick to a pure epoxy matrix)=2C but is instead a primer layer
. Having it be the first layer in the mold layup does many things: 1) pre
-primes the part for the builder J=2C 2) pre-fills the pinholes in a way th
at won=92t allow them to reappear later J J=2C 3) provides a sure bond betw
een the primer and epoxy matrix since the epoxy cures to it.
If this is what Van=92s is doing now ' great!
John Melchert
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Tuesday=2C June 08=2C 2010 7:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
Looks like a nice get coat. Shucks we can=92t make comments about your pin
k plane.
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday=2C June 08=2C 2010 4:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit Surpise
My finish kit arrived yesterday. I was surprised by the gray primer on t
he cowl. I guess that=92s something new Van=92s is doing these days.
bob
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finish Kit Surpise |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Robin: Actually my cabin is done; I thought the QC on the cowl was worse. The cabin
area issues were cosmetic; the cowl issues structural. The foam/glass reinforcement
was placed too far aft. I had to remove some, and then reinforce what
was left.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300578#300578
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HID Landing Lights (high speed taxi) |
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Just to pile on, I find myself at rotation speed about the time I get to
> full throttle (trying to be a slightly gentle on the engine),
Until the engine is fully broken in (oil usage stabilizes) .... abuse it
a little ....... full power for the most part ..... the rings will seat
faster. Keep a good eye on the cylinder temps .... if they're running
cool, lean. If you don't have a CHT probe for each cylinder, I think
you should forget the leaning. IMHO, of course.
> it's amazing
> how fast this thing gets airborne! I also have had the experience of a high
> speed taxi turn into the first flight in one of my previous projects. It
> turned out great but I can assure you it's an eye opener!
>
You don't really learn much after one high speed taxi ..... put the
pedal to the metal and go fly. Again, IMHO.
Linn
> Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Misc topics... First flight, Insurance, Rudder lock |
If you like simple and cheap but effective this might work. After strapping
back the stick I install this restraint. I used it on my 9A also. On the 9A
I started out with the clip installed that others have pics of (holding the
rudder pulled completely to the side) but liked this better.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Most important question... Any recommendations for a good rudder lock for
the -10. I used the spring loaded rod that fits on the rudder pedals for
the -7A. Unfortunately, I also now have a 3 inch hole covered with duct
tape in the rudder surface of the 7A where this lock failed to hold and the
rudder stops broke after the rudder flopped around in the wind.
Thanks,Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: When to run wires/static port etc |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Not a bad idea to install the static ports and tubing now. It is good to do an
empty conduit run (Vans sells some pretty good light weight stuff) to the end
of the tail cone where your tail strobe and position lights will come out. But
you have to know which side to run it up.
Antenna wires (VOR and COM) might need to be installed too.
Not a big deal to install later. You will have to crawl up there for something
later so do not get too concerned about everything now.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - phase 1 / painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300591#300591
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Walk Material |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
With new paint on the beast, I have been looking at wing walk materials to protect
the paint. ACS has lots of options. There was one long ago comment that was
negative on the clear stuff. The old standard 3M black tape seems to be preferred
material. I think that the high visibility of the black stuff might be better
for keeping guests off of the fuel tank area. Thoughts ?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300593#300593
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
We just put our 3M from ACS on painted wings without the recommended additional
glue and it has a few bubbles forming. I have not tried to get them out yet but
would try the glue if I had it to do over .
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300600#300600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
| From: | Helsper <nickhelsper(at)gmail.com> |
I would use the special glue. I put some of the ACS wing walk material on
an RV-7 wing a few years ago. The edges started pealing up. I didn't try
the special glue at the time, but definitely would in the future.
~Nick Helsper
On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 5:57 PM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> We just put our 3M from ACS on painted wings without the recommended
> additional glue and it has a few bubbles forming. I have not tried to get
> them out yet but would try the glue if I had it to do over .
> Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300600#300600
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Walk Material |
Mike,
The clear stuff we used works great. We added an outline to define the step
area but many passengers don=92t seem to be able to color within the lines.
Also of note dirty wet shoes do show on the clear wing walk. It is easy to
wipe off but if it were black you eliminate one more thing to spiff up. If
I
were to do it again I would have painted the skid the same color as my
outline (steel blue-ish).
Robin
[image:
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/Paint/Wing%20Walk.jpg]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 3:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Walk Material
With new paint on the beast, I have been looking at wing walk materials to
protect the paint. ACS has lots of options. There was one long ago comment
that was negative on the clear stuff. The old standard 3M black tape seems
to be preferred material. I think that the high visibility of the black
stuff might be better for keeping guests off of the fuel tank area. Thought
s
?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300593#300593
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabin top paint |
| From: | "Space Cadet" <Dwight(at)Drefs.net> |
I painted cabin top using paint from a local auto paint supplier. Came out nice.
A bit glossier than I wanted, but it was what they recommended and looks nice.
Had them color-match the leather and it is near perfect.
Dwight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300611#300611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
Any real life performance specs for your 10. The only reference i have
is a 5200MSL @80F and 2800 pounds and flaps 15. ground roll was 2500
feet as measured by the tower.
I plan to operate into a 6000MSL airport at 2400 pounds and temp of 15C,
winds are forecast to be <5kts.
For these conditions a Piper Dakota (O540@250HP) at 2400# is expected to
have a ground roll of about 1400 feet and about 2500 to clear a 50'
obstacle. The runway has a bump in it at the 1500 foot postion from the
end of 24. total runway lengh is 4800 feet.
I have been into this aiport one other time in the Glastar in winter;
weight was 1900# and O360A4M (180HP) with fixed pitch prop. we landed 6
and had 3300 feet to operate before the bump. Departure was from 6 and
not a problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Misc topics... First flight, Insurance, Rudder lock |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
No pics, but I have come up with a rudder lock system very similar to Alberts and
it works quite well. I thought about building one of the locking systems out
of PVC pipe that goes around the whole vert. stab and rudder, but really did
not want to carry that around in the airplane.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300626#300626
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Preserving fiberglass |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am finishing the wheel pants and fairings, then the cowling is last before the
move to the hanger. I am not painting the plane until after the fly-off period
(a choice made due to lack of paint shops in the area and an extensive back
log, nothing else) The plane will also live in a hanger. At the risk of inciting
something similar to primer wars, what have people in a similar situation
done to preserve the fiberglass from any wear due to UV effect or the elements?
Will my personal choice in aircraft primer suffice until paint, or should I
go as far as gel coating? As with much of the build this falls under personal
preference but want to feel out the group to see what others before me have done.
Thanks.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300627#300627
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Preserving fiberglass |
get a primer that has UV protection. That's all you need to do, when you're
ready to paint clean the parts, sand it down and if needed reprime lightly
than paint. By priming you'll also take care of the pin holes now versus
later when you're flying.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Preserving fiberglass
>
> I am finishing the wheel pants and fairings, then the cowling is last
> before the move to the hanger. I am not painting the plane until after the
> fly-off period (a choice made due to lack of paint shops in the area and
> an extensive back log, nothing else) The plane will also live in a hanger.
> At the risk of inciting something similar to primer wars, what have people
> in a similar situation done to preserve the fiberglass from any wear due
> to UV effect or the elements? Will my personal choice in aircraft primer
> suffice until paint, or should I go as far as gel coating? As with much of
> the build this falls under personal preference but want to feel out the
> group to see what others before me have done. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300627#300627
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin top paint |
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Linn,
>
>
>
> Give Geoff Combs a call. I don't know if you have his overhead or not,
>
Gonna roll my own .... getting ready to lay up the glass.
>
> but he's got some other items in the works that you may be interested
> in. One will save you some painting.
>
Is he the one doing the plastic interior? Does he have a web site???
Linn
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Preserving fiberglass |
| From: | Helsper <nickhelsper(at)gmail.com> |
The UV protection in a primer protects the paint, not the fiberglass. You
need a primer that obstructs all light.
~Nick Helsper
On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 8:43 PM, Pascal wrote:
>
> get a primer that has UV protection. That's all you need to do, when you're
> ready to paint clean the parts, sand it down and if needed reprime lightly
> than paint. By priming you'll also take care of the pin holes now versus
> later when you're flying.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 6:04 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Preserving fiberglass
>
>>
>> I am finishing the wheel pants and fairings, then the cowling is last
>> before the move to the hanger. I am not painting the plane until after the
>> fly-off period (a choice made due to lack of paint shops in the area and an
>> extensive back log, nothing else) The plane will also live in a hanger. At
>> the risk of inciting something similar to primer wars, what have people in a
>> similar situation done to preserve the fiberglass from any wear due to UV
>> effect or the elements? Will my personal choice in aircraft primer suffice
>> until paint, or should I go as far as gel coating? As with much of the build
>> this falls under personal preference but want to feel out the group to see
>> what others before me have done. Thanks.
>>
>> Eric Kallio
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300627#300627
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Preserving fiberglass |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I had planned on the UV Smooth prime as a filler/primer unless better suggestions
were presented, but I left the name out of my original post until I had a chance
to get some flame proof underwear on.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300643#300643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Preserving fiberglass |
Only when the plane losses its lid and it lays upside down sitting in the s
un
Date: Tue=2C 8 Jun 2010 20:54:31 -0500
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Preserving fiberglass
From: nickhelsper(at)gmail.com
The UV protection in a primer protects the paint=2C not the fiberglass. Yo
u need a primer that obstructs all light.
~Nick Helsper
On Tue=2C Jun 8=2C 2010 at 8:43 PM=2C Pascal wrot
e:
get a primer that has UV protection. That's all you need to do=2C when you'
re ready to paint clean the parts=2C sand it down and if needed reprime lig
htly than paint. By priming you'll also take care of the pin holes now vers
us later when you're flying.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday=2C June 08=2C 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Preserving fiberglass
I am finishing the wheel pants and fairings=2C then the cowling is last bef
ore the move to the hanger. I am not painting the plane until after the fly
-off period (a choice made due to lack of paint shops in the area and an ex
tensive back log=2C nothing else) The plane will also live in a hanger. At
the risk of inciting something similar to primer wars=2C what have people i
n a similar situation done to preserve the fiberglass from any wear due to
UV effect or the elements? Will my personal choice in aircraft primer suffi
ce until paint=2C or should I go as far as gel coating? As with much of the
build this falls under personal preference but want to feel out the group
to see what others before me have done. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300627#300627
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle=2C List Admin.
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wtb IO540 starter ring gear & support |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Would be interested in finding out the part number he has, if it's the right one,
I would like it. I'm waiting for my parts manual to arrive to be sure of the
number I need.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300650#300650
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Preserving fiberglass |
Ummm. WHAT??? Eric just prime with a primer with UV protection like
Dupont prime and sand. It will last plenty long until you paint.
Rick
N246RS
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 8, 2010, at 6:54 PM, Helsper wrote:
> The UV protection in a primer protects the paint, not the
> fiberglass. You need a primer that obstructs all light.
>
> ~Nick Helsper
>
> On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 8:43 PM, Pascal
> wrote:
>
> get a primer that has UV protection. That's all you need to do, when
> you're ready to paint clean the parts, sand it down and if needed
> reprime lightly than paint. By priming you'll also take care of the
> pin holes now versus later when you're flying.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 6:04 PM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Preserving fiberglass
>
>
> I am finishing the wheel pants and fairings, then the cowling is
> last before the move to the hanger. I am not painting the plane
> until after the fly-off period (a choice made due to lack of paint
> shops in the area and an extensive back log, nothing else) The plane
> will also live in a hanger. At the risk of inciting something
> similar to primer wars, what have people in a similar situation done
> to preserve the fiberglass from any wear due to UV effect or the
> elements? Will my personal choice in aircraft primer suffice until
> paint, or should I go as far as gel coating? As with much of the
> build this falls under personal preference but want to feel out the
> group to see what others before me have done. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300627#300627
>
> -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
May 24, 2010 - June 09, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gn