RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gz
September 08, 2010 - October 04, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-gz
September 08, 2010 - October 04, 2010
direction as to which airport you'll most likely be closest to.
Carlos Hernandez
Phoenix, AZ
On 9/8/2010 2:49 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I have received a great job offer in Phoenix and will be looking for a hangar
to rent, buy or share. I would greatly appreciate any leads that you guys might
have. I will also be looking for additional RV buddies that I hope I can find
at Copper State Fly in.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob Kermanj
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez<carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Moving to Phoenix
Date: Sep 08, 2010
Thanks Carlos. Just sent an email to Deems regarding the work location. It is on
central ave at 3900 block.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 8, 2010, at 6:04 PM, Carlos Hernandez wrote:
>
> What part of the city will you be employed? This will give a better direction
as to which airport you'll most likely be closest to.
>
> Carlos Hernandez
> Phoenix, AZ
>
> On 9/8/2010 2:49 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj
>>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I have received a great job offer in Phoenix and will be looking for a hangar
to rent, buy or share. I would greatly appreciate any leads that you guys might
have. I will also be looking for additional RV buddies that I hope I can find
at Copper State Fly in.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rob Kermanj
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Carlos Hernandez<carlosh@sec-engr.com>
> Structural Engineers Company
> 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
> Chandler, AZ 85224
> Phone: 480.968.8600
> Fax: 480.968.8608
> www.sec-engr.com
>
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
>
> The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
> This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
> organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
> an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
> notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
> its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
> prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
> immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
> from your system.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Moving to Phoenix
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2010
Welcome to the Valley. There are privately developed hangars for sale at Mesa
Falcon Field (FFZ), but rentals from the city are backlogged several years. Shade
hangars (covered without walls) can be available in a reasonable amount of
time.
I've heard that hangars are currently available at Williams and at Glendale. This
valley has a vibrant GA community.
Hope to see you at the RV10 nest at Copperstate.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311876#311876
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Moving to Phoenix
Date: Sep 08, 2010
Thank you all for the instant responses. As soon as I formulate the details on
my move, I will plan for Copperstate. Looking forward to meeting you.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:24 PM, "woxofswa" wrote:
>
> Welcome to the Valley. There are privately developed hangars for sale at Mesa
Falcon Field (FFZ), but rentals from the city are backlogged several years.
Shade hangars (covered without walls) can be available in a reasonable amount
of time.
>
> I've heard that hangars are currently available at Williams and at Glendale.
This valley has a vibrant GA community.
>
> Hope to see you at the RV10 nest at Copperstate.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311876#311876
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Moving to Phoenix
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2010
Hey Rob,
Ask Robin if he wants to compare total household tax liabilities with an AZ resident.
BTW, scorpions beat mosquitoes any day.
Hey Robin,
You're just jealous because our Governor is tougher than yours.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311904#311904
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flush door handle locks
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2010
Mouser,
If you haven't cut your Vans' handle racks yet you can just buy the 180 new kit
and try to get as much rotation from it as possible. The 180 new kit and the
90 kit are the same price. The 180 retro is more because the extra gear racks
to replace the Vans' handle racks are included. I have sold 180 degree kits
to builders with flush handle installations do I know they are out there.
Feel free to call me. number on www.planearound.com.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311939#311939
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2010
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Moving to Phoenix
What part of Phx are you moving to? I'm at DVT and might know of a hanger t
hats =0Aavailable.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: R
ob Kermanj =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed,
September 8, 2010 2:49:38 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Moving to Phoenix=0A=0A-
everyone,=0A=0AI have received a great job offer in Phoenix and will be lo
oking for a hangar to =0Arent, buy or share. I would greatly appreciate any
leads that you guys might =0Ahave. I will also be looking for additional R
V buddies that I hope I can find at =0ACopper State Fly in.- =0A=0A=0ATha
====0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flush door handle locks
From: "mouser" <mouser(at)mouser.org>
Date: Sep 10, 2010
Hi Strasnuts,
I'm still a long way out from ordering door hardware; just waiting on my wing
kit to arrive right now. I'm just thinking ahead. Currently, I see your latch
and the iflyrv10 handles as the best in show. I plan on going that way when
the time comes. Hopefully by then someone will have some photos of a >90degree
install showing how much travel you get and how much delay in pin extension
that affords. :)
Cheers,
-Mouser
--------
RV-10 #40988
http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
KLAM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312027#312027
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Powered up
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 10, 2010
Its alive...its alive (insert your evil scientist laugh here). Got the battery
connected tonight and decided it was time to test drive the panel. With fire extinguisher
ready...in case the smoke tries to leave the wires, and tissues handy...also
in case the smoke escapes the wires, I built up the courage to flip
the battery switch. Click, there was power, no smoke. Pressed the avionics master...click.
All is well. One by one the circuit breakers were closed. Yay, no
issues. Installed the avionics in the rack, powered everything back up and am
happy to report that the electrons are going to the right place and it looks
like it works just like it did the day it left Stein's shop. My only issue is
the transponder (Garmin 330) screen powers up, but there is no display. Time
to pull out the manual and do some troubleshooting. Still a good day.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312088#312088
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2010
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Powered up
It is a really good feeling!
On 9/10/2010 9:14 PM, Eric_Kallio wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio"
>
> Its alive...its alive (insert your evil scientist laugh here). Got the battery
connected tonight and decided it was time to test drive the panel. With fire
extinguisher ready...in case the smoke tries to leave the wires, and tissues
handy...also in case the smoke escapes the wires, I built up the courage to flip
the battery switch. Click, there was power, no smoke. Pressed the avionics
master...click. All is well. One by one the circuit breakers were closed. Yay,
no issues. Installed the avionics in the rack, powered everything back up and
am happy to report that the electrons are going to the right place and it looks
like it works just like it did the day it left Stein's shop. My only issue
is the transponder (Garmin 330) screen powers up, but there is no display. Time
to pull out the manual and do some troubleshooting. Still a good day.
>
> Eric Kallio
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2010
Subject: Re: Powered up
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
I had a similar tissue experience today too. I got the quote for mine!!
:)
Congrats on the milestone....
Phil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Sep 10, 2010
Subject: LED Nav Lights
For some time I have mentioned the =93discount=94 way I was going about add
ing
LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After having spent $220 on my first set o
f
LED=92s for the -10 (which still required modifications
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I decided to
fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts. The lights were
purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The sockets were maybe $3.00
each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was about $8.00 delivered. I think
they turned out great. They are definitely brighter than my -10 Nav lights
and many people comment on how noticeable my -10 nav lights are on the
ground and in flight.
Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these are older Van
s
wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace them with aero tips
.
Photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE>
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 170 Hours
RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LED Nav Lights
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2010
Hey Robin,
The photos of the nav lights didn't come through.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312149#312149
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GTX 330 screen
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2010
(Also posted on VAF, but I seem to get a larger response here)
After powering up my panel the only issue I have not been able to resolve easily
is my transponder. It is receiving power and turns on and off as evidenced by
the screen going turning on. However, the entire screen is a field of green.
Every pixel is illuminated so there is no text or anything to read on the screen.
I haven't found anything in the operator or maintenance manual to help me
with this. Anyone have an idea what may be going on, or seen this before?
Eric Kallio
Putting the little pieces of an RV-10 into on big piece.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312157#312157
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LED Nav Lights
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2010
Thanks Tim! I was reading the forum and for some reason Robin's message got cut
off before that link.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312165#312165
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2010
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: LED Nav Lights
Robin
I've been thinking of buying LED nav and strobes from either Aveo or Aero L
eds.=C2- Their products certainly are nice but pricey.=C2- I'm sure I c
ould=C2-fabricate the nav leds, but with=C2-your application, are the s
trobes in your pictures the standard strobes we all have seen/used for the
last 15 years, or something else?
=C2-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
=C2-
=C2-
- On Sat, 9/11/10, Robin Marks wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
Received: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 6:03 AM
For some time I have mentioned the =9Cdiscount=9D way I was goi
ng about adding LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After having spent $220 o
n my first set of LED=99s for the -10 (which still required modificat
ions http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I decide
d to fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts. The lights were
purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The sockets were maybe $3.00
each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was about $8.00 delivered. I think t
hey turned out great. They are definitely brighter than my -10 Nav lights a
nd many people comment on how noticeable my -10 nav lights are on the groun
d and in flight.
Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these are older Van
s wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace them with aero ti
ps.
=C2-
Photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
=C2-
Robin
RV-4=C2-=C2-=C2- Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10=C2- 170 Hours
RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2010
Subject: LED Nav Lights
Same old strobes I had left over from my RV-10 build, just added another
strobe power supply.
Here is a pre-install photo to see how simple it is:
[image: LED Nav lites 002.jpg][image: LED Nav lites 003.jpg]
Here is another option for Nav Light from eBay, standard Bal15s socket
connections:
[image: 2 x Green 45 LED Indicator Light Bulbs 1156/382 Ba15s][image: 2 x
Green 45 LED Indicator Light Bulbs 1156/382 Ba15s]
[image: 2x Red 45-LED Indicator Light Bulbs 1156/382 Ba15s][image: 2x Red
45-LED Indicator Light Bulbs 1156/382 Ba15s]
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Lark
*Sent:* Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:06 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
Robin
I've been thinking of buying LED nav and strobes from either Aveo or Aero
Leds. Their products certainly are nice but pricey. I'm sure I
could fabricate the nav leds, but with your application, are the strobes in
your pictures the standard strobes we all have seen/used for the last 15
years, or something else?
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
- On *Sat, 9/11/10, Robin Marks * wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
Received: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 6:03 AM
For some time I have mentioned the =93discount=94 way I was going about add
ing
LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After having spent $220 on my first set o
f
LED=92s for the -10 (which still required modifications
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I decided to
fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts. The lights were
purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The sockets were maybe $3.00
each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was about $8.00 delivered. I think
they turned out great. They are definitely brighter than my -10 Nav lights
and many people comment on how noticeable my -10 nav lights are on the
ground and in flight.
Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these are older Van
s
wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace them with aero tips
.
Photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE>
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 170 Hours
RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
* *
* *
*=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
*et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com*
*llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
* *
* *
===========*
===========*
===========*
===========*
* *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: LED Nav Lights
Date: Sep 12, 2010
credit to Pete Howell- check VAF for instructions:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fly.rv9A/NavLights#
I used this method and my lights look as good as the pictures.
Pascal
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
Robin
I've been thinking of buying LED nav and strobes from either Aveo
or Aero Leds. Their products certainly are nice but pricey. I'm sure I
could fabricate the nav leds, but with your application, are the strobes
in your pictures the standard strobes we all have seen/used for the last
15 years, or something else?
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
- On Sat, 9/11/10, Robin Marks wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
Received: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 6:03 AM
For some time I have mentioned the =9Cdiscount=9D
way I was going about adding LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After
having spent $220 on my first set of LED=99s for the -10 (which
still required modifications
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I decided
to fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts. The lights
were purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The sockets were
maybe $3.00 each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was about $8.00
delivered. I think they turned out great. They are definitely brighter
than my -10 Nav lights and many people comment on how noticeable my -10
nav lights are on the ground and in flight.
Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these
are older Vans wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace
them with aero tips.
Photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 170 Hours
RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Mortimore" <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Nav Lights
Date: Sep 12, 2010
Hi Robin, I apologize for not following this thread as closely as I
should have.
The lights really look good, I've looked in the archive but can't find
any previous notes regarding the lights you used.
A ebay search came up with 200,000 hits, can you give us some light
descriptions or part numbers to help a brother builder out?
I see on ebay white and red LED lights but no Green. Do you relie on the
green and red mirrored plexi for the colour or are green bulbs
available?
Can you point us in the right direction for the coloured plexi?
Is the second bulb in your installation a strobe? If so are these roll
your own as well?
Thanks in advance, Terry.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 2:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: LED Nav Lights
For some time I have mentioned the =93discount=94 way I was going
about adding LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After having spent $220
on my first set of LED=92s for the -10 (which still required
modifications
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I decided
to fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts. The lights
were purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The sockets were
maybe $3.00 each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was about $8.00
delivered. I think they turned out great. They are definitely brighter
than my -10 Nav lights and many people comment on how noticeable my -10
nav lights are on the ground and in flight.
Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these are
older Vans wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace them
with aero tips.
Photos here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 170 Hours
RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Nav Lights
Just to throw another vendor option out there.
I've gone this route http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/LEDPROJECT1.htm after
seeing Deems' installation. And here's how they turned out...
http://rv10.stephensville.com/2010/05/10/wingtip-nav-lights/
And here's Deems' pics:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=DeemsDavis&project=41&category=1387&log=10822&row=1
Jeff is great to work with, but not sure if he is still producing them.
I'd shoot him an email if you are interested.
-Sean #40303 fuse side skins
On 9/12/10 11:28 AM, Terry Mortimore wrote:
> Hi Robin, I apologize for not following this thread as closely as I
> should have.
> The lights really look good, I've looked in the archive but can't find
> any previous notes regarding the lights you used.
> A ebay search came up with 200,000 hits, can you give us some light
> descriptions or part numbers to help a brother builder out?
> I see on ebay white and red LED lights but no Green. Do you relie on
> the green and red mirrored plexi for the colour or are green bulbs
> available?
> Can you point us in the right direction for the coloured plexi?
> Is the second bulb in your installation a strobe? If so are these roll
> your own as well?
>
> Thanks in advance, Terry.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Robin Marks
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com ;
> rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 11, 2010 2:03 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: LED Nav Lights
>
> For some time I have mentioned the discount way I was going
> about adding LED Nav lights to my RV-8A build. After having spent
> $220 on my first set of LEDs for the -10 (which still required
> modifications
> http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Lights_LEDHID.aspx ) I
> decided to fabricate some Red/Green Nav lights out of Auto parts.
> The lights were purchased on eBay for well under $10.00 each. The
> sockets were maybe $3.00 each and the Red Green Mirrored plexi was
> about $8.00 delivered. I think they turned out great. They are
> definitely brighter than my -10 Nav lights and many people comment
> on how noticeable my -10 nav lights are on the ground and in flight.
>
> Here are a few photos of the Nav lights installed. Note these are
> older Vans wing tips so we had to cut away the corners and replace
> them with aero tips.
>
> Photos here:
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE#
> <http://picasaweb.google.com/marks.robin/RV8AN880EE>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A Sold
>
> RV-10 170 Hours
>
> RV-8A Flying by years end (or else!)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Part Numbers for IO540 D4A5
Date: Sep 12, 2010
I am trying to verify that an engine kit I am considering buying will clear
the engine mount adequately.............does anyone have access to the par
t number for the sump on the D4A5?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Part Numbers for IO540 D4A5
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 12, 2010
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2010
Subject: Re: Part Numbers for IO540 D4A5
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Parts manual I have shows 72056
On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2010
Subject: Re: Part Numbers for IO540 D4A5
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Make that an LW-13901
On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 7:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Parts manual I have shows 72056
>
> On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Michael Kraus > wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2010
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: LED Nav lights
Ok guys, so now I'm really confused
-
Certainly Jeffsrv-7a leds are impresive.- No questions there.
-
I was of the opinion that the new type of LED-strobes would eliminate elc
trical noise isues that the old strobes had.- Or, is- it a none issue??
-
Deems, I need to ask.- Your coment on your site with regards to being "pu
t off by the "circuit boards and electronic components hanging out exposed"
,- does that apply to the Aveo and Aero Led systems?-
-
Anyway all opinions/options are still welcome.- Thx.
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
-=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: LED Nav lights
Date: Sep 13, 2010
The Aeroled and Aveo position/strobe lights are completely self-contained.
There are no other external circuit board or power supplies.
You can get best pricing on the Aeroled unit through Van's. It was even
better than their show pricing at OSH.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 11:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: LED Nav lights
Ok guys, so now I'm really confused
Certainly Jeffsrv-7a leds are impresive. No questions there.
I was of the opinion that the new type of LED strobes would eliminate
elctrical noise isues that the old strobes had. Or, is it a none issue??
Deems, I need to ask. Your coment on your site with regards to being "put
off by the "circuit boards and electronic components hanging out exposed",
does that apply to the Aveo and Aero Led systems?
Anyway all opinions/options are still welcome. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lower cowling slot
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2010
I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it easier to
put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those of you who
have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg or leave the
same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the equation for cooling?
Any pics out there for reference?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 13, 2010
I've wondered if this slot allows in air opposing the cooling air coming down through
the engine. Especially in climb, the nose is at an upward angle to the
relative airflow, allowing the air to flow into the slot and oppose the engine
cooling air. I've wanted to measure the CHT difference before and after closing
the slot, but haven't yet....
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 13, 2010, at 12:50 PM, "Strasnuts" wrote:
>
> I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it easier
to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those of you who
have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg or leave the
same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the equation for
cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Subject: Lower cowling slot
I extended the slot forward several inches, installed nutplates along the sides
and then made an aluminum cover plate that essentially made the exposed part
of the slot the same as stock. No need to mess around to do anything but surface
mounting of the plate - it's only visible to those on their hands and knees
under the cowl. Idea came from Alex D. (RVTraining.com) who also did this on
his -10.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it easier to
put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those of you who
have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg or leave the
same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the equation for cooling?
Any pics out there for reference?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
I did the same thing initially, it was to allow for ease of removal w/
3 bld prop.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2047%20Spinner%20and%20Cowling/slides/DSC04249.html
(click forward for 8-9 pictures).
But when working on cooling issues I modified the original removable
plate to one which included louvers, in the hope that it would allow for
more exit air and better cooling.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Phase1/slides/DSC07558.html (several pics)
As you can see from the pictures, I enclosed the slot with a cover aft
of the landing gear leg.
RESULTS : I can't say as any of this made a significant difference in
cooling.
Deems Davis
www.deemsrv10.com
On 9/13/2010 11:19 AM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> I extended the slot forward several inches, installed nutplates along the sides
and then made an aluminum cover plate that essentially made the exposed part
of the slot the same as stock. No need to mess around to do anything but surface
mounting of the plate - it's only visible to those on their hands and knees
under the cowl. Idea came from Alex D. (RVTraining.com) who also did this
on his -10.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 12:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>
> I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it easier
to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those of you who
have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg or leave the
same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the equation for
cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: LED Nav lights
I'm not familiar with the Aveo or Aero LED systems, so I can't
comment. I just didin't like the green printed circuit boards that were
visible on some of the commercial products at the time of my decision
making.
Deems
On 9/12/2010 8:11 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Ok guys, so now I'm really confused
> Certainly Jeffsrv-7a leds are impresive. No questions there.
> I was of the opinion that the new type of LED strobes would eliminate
> elctrical noise isues that the old strobes had. Or, is it a none issue??
> Deems, I need to ask. Your coment on your site with regards to being
> "put off by the "circuit boards and electronic components hanging out
> exposed", does that apply to the Aveo and Aero Led systems?
> Anyway all opinions/options are still welcome. Thx.
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: iPad Mount
Date: Sep 13, 2010
I finally received my iPad mount from Ram Mounts. It is a good quality
and strong mount.
I used a sheet of aluminum and formed it around the tunnel to use as a
temporary bracket and to mount the iPad. Once flight testing t is
complete, I will most likely remove the extra aluminum bracket and
attach the mount with thru bolts to the tunnel cover.
I have pointed the iPad's charging port up under the panel; so that I
can get a 12V charger and connect it behind the panel to charge
continuously during flights.
Flight test, this weekend.
IMG_0046.JPG
IMG_0047.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: For sale: Disassembled Lycoming IO-540-C4B5
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Date: Sep 13, 2010
I am posting this to the RV10 list before advertising elsewhere, I have this narrow
deck engine for sale, I have decided to purchase new. This was taken off
an Aztec, comes with propellor governor, Bendix mags & fuel servo. Yellow tagged
items include: crankshaft & counterweights, crankcase, accessory case, oil
pan, cylinders, pistons, rods. Needs piston rings, camshaft, & accessory case
items. $12,500 obo. Call Dave at 231 878 6571 or rvdave(at)centurytel.net
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312326#312326
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick and Sandra Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com>
Subject: Re: LED Nav lights
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Ahh, now I understand what you meant. The 2 products I'm considering
aren't built that way. Thx Deems
----- Original Message -----
From: Deems Davis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: LED Nav lights
I'm not familiar with the Aveo or Aero LED systems, so I can't
comment. I just didin't like the green printed circuit boards that were
visible on some of the commercial products at the time of my decision
making.
Deems
On 9/12/2010 8:11 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Ok guys, so now I'm really confused
Certainly Jeffsrv-7a leds are impresive. No questions
there.
I was of the opinion that the new type of LED strobes
would eliminate elctrical noise isues that the old strobes had. Or, is
it a none issue??
Deems, I need to ask. Your coment on your site with
regards to being "put off by the "circuit boards and electronic
components hanging out exposed", does that apply to the Aveo and Aero
Led systems?
Anyway all opinions/options are still welcome. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
09/13/10 14:35:00
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Flush door handle locks
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Sean
I just installed the first of two door catches I picked up from you at KOSH.
To recap, I have the IFLYRV10 flush door handles and lockks installed
already.
It is the flush handle cams that determine how far the door pins can move.
This appears to be about 110 degrees of handle turn. I also found that the
180 degree racks are not required /
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: September-09-10 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flush door handle locks
Mouser,
If you haven't cut your Vans' handle racks yet you can just buy the 180 new
kit and try to get as much rotation from it as possible. The 180 new kit
and the 90 kit are the same price. The 180 retro is more because the extra
gear racks to replace the Vans' handle racks are included. I have sold 180
degree kits to builders with flush handle installations do I know they are
out there.
Feel free to call me. number on www.planearound.com.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311939#311939
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Flush door handle locks
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Hmmm
I seemed to have hit send before I finished the email below. Here it is
again in its entirety...
=================================
Sean
I just installed the first of two door catches I picked up from you at KOSH.
To recap, I have the IFLYRV10 flush door handles and lockks installed
already.
It is the flush handle cams that determine how far the door pins can move.
This appears to be about 110 degrees of handle turn. I also found that the
180 degree racks are not required / or useful as the amount of rotation can
be accomodated by the standard racks. You gent a little extra length from
the racks by removing the pop rivet studs at the end of the door racks. They
are not necessary as the IFLYRV10 cam limits the amount of movement.
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca]
Sent: September-13-10 6:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Flush door handle locks
Sean
I just installed the first of two door catches I picked up from you at KOSH.
To recap, I have the IFLYRV10 flush door handles and lockks installed
already.
It is the flush handle cams that determine how far the door pins can move.
This appears to be about 110 degrees of handle turn. I also found that the
180 degree racks are not required /
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: September-09-10 11:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flush door handle locks
Mouser,
If you haven't cut your Vans' handle racks yet you can just buy the 180 new
kit and try to get as much rotation from it as possible. The 180 new kit
and the 90 kit are the same price. The 180 retro is more because the extra
gear racks to replace the Vans' handle racks are included. I have sold 180
degree kits to builders with flush handle installations do I know they are
out there.
Feel free to call me. number on www.planearound.com.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311939#311939
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Door Attach Struts
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Hi
At KOSH I picked up a couple of door attach struts from Sean
(www.planearound.com). I did the retrofit recently and the hanger consensus
was they look far superior to the the steel brackets from Vans. The retrofit
only required a small adjustment to one hole that I didn't drill exactly
perpendicular when installing the original brackets.
They can be found at
http://www.planearound.com/DOOR-STRUT-ATTACH-BRACKETS-DS2.htm
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: iPad Mount
Date: Sep 13, 2010
I tried my new RAM mounts today as well, but mine are hanging from the
bracket over the glare shield. I like my position, but it does cover
up my view of GRT EIS display.
Sorry, no picture to post yet, but will do so later.
Rob's is nice, but I have another row of knobs below the throttle
area, plus I have a fire extinguisher mounted on top of the tunnel fwd
of Rob's mount plus a spring loaded access port in the top of the
tunnel where I can quickly and easily gut in a flex hose from the
extinguisher inside of the tunnel to discharge if needed.
grumpy
N184JM
On Sep 13, 2010, at 5:17 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> I finally received my iPad mount from Ram Mounts. It is a good
> quality and strong mount.
>
> I used a sheet of aluminum and formed it around the tunnel to use as
> a temporary bracket and to mount the iPad. Once flight testing t is
> complete, I will most likely remove the extra aluminum bracket and
> attach the mount with thru bolts to the tunnel cover.
>
> I have pointed the iPad's charging port up under the panel; so that
> I can get a 12V charger and connect it behind the panel to charge
> continuously during flights.
>
> Flight test, this weekend.
>
>
> IMG_0046.JPG
>
>
> IMG_0047.JPG
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2010
Thanks for the replies. I made this today. Hopefully this makes it a little easier
to take off the cowl. It is 7 more screws on the lower cowl but I will
have the screwdriver out anyway.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312362#312362
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_plate_949.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_plate_312.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Door Attach Struts
Date: Sep 14, 2010
Hi Again
Another big advantage of Sean's attach brackets is that they sit lower than
the stock Van's brackets. They have the same hole geometry it is just that
the strut attach point is lower. This means that those of you who have
clearance issues with the door (like me) can avoid having to cut a clearance
hole in the top of the door.
I wish I had these sooner as I cut clearance holes into my doors last June.
I just repatched them today now that I have Sean's brackets. As much as I
hate fiberglass, it sure is forgiving.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: September-13-10 7:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Attach Struts
Hi
At KOSH I picked up a couple of door attach struts from Sean (
www.planearound.com). I did the retrofit
recently and the hanger consensus was they look far superior to the the
steel brackets from Vans. The retrofit only required a small adjustment to
one hole that I didn't drill exactly perpendicular when installing the
original brackets.
They can be found at
<http://www.planearound.com/DOOR-STRUT-ATTACH-BRACKETS-DS2.htm>
http://www.planearound.com/DOOR-STRUT-ATTACH-BRACKETS-DS2.htm
Cheers
Les
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 15, 2010
I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade prop as
others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it doesn't seem
to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned
about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
creeping up there.
A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the lower
cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
John 40315
Phase 1 Fly off
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those
of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg
or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the
equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.15860
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.15870
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 15, 2010
I fought high oil temps and installed a second oil cooler on the right side.
Final part of the solution was cowl flaps as these pics show. Before I put
the non-adjustable flaps in I had louvers in those locations but they didn't
do enough. Still have to be careful of extended ground operation in 100+
days though.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade prop as
others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it doesn't seem
to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned
about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
creeping up there.
A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the lower
cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
John 40315
Phase 1 Fly off
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those
of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg
or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the
equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.15860
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E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Im just starting to fly also with one under my belt and my temps were alitt
le =0Ahigher than I wanted also. I installed two oil cooler's in hopes of a
voiding =0Athis issue as Deem's had warned me about it. I'm going to put so
me hours on her =0Aand see what shakes out. It went up to about 220 on clim
b out and leveled off =0Aarounf 205 at about 25MAp And 2500 RPM. It started
to climb if I leaned any. Let =0Ame know if you come up with anything.=0A
=0ABruce 151BJ-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Jo
hn Dunne =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: We
d, September 15, 2010 12:30:47 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling s
m.au>=0A=0AI extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 bl
ade prop as=0Aothers have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it
doesn't seem=0Ato have made any real difference to the oil temps in any ca
se.=0AMy oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F=0AInitial running
was around 215-216 deg F=0AI was told everything will eventually stabilise
and don't be too concerned=0Aabout the high oil temps, but I'm not real co
mfortable with the temps=0Acreeping up there.=0AA suggestion was put to me
to install small ramp style wedges in front of=0Athe stock louvers in order
to drag the hot air out and away from the lower=0Acowl. Anybody had any ex
perience with this?=0A=0AJohn 40315=0APhase 1 Fly off=0A=0A=0A-----Original
Message-----=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-
rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts=0ASent: Tuesday, 14
September 2010 3:50 AM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RV10-List:
braunandco.com>=0A=0AI would like to make a removable plate on the lower co
wling to make it=0Aeasier to put on and take off.- I was wondering if it'
s worth it for those=0Aof you who have done it and if I should close the ga
p to the front gear leg=0Aor leave the same amount of space for cooling.-
Was this space used for the=0Aequation for cooling?- Any pics out there
for reference?=0A=0AThanks=0A=0A--------=0ACust. #40936=0ARV-10 SB Fuselage
=0AN801VR reserved=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://f
orums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AE-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
=0ADatabase version: 6.15860=0Ahttp://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-ant
ivirus/=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AE-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.51
4)=0ADatabase version: 6.15870=0Ahttp://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-a
=================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: iPad mount
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Attached are 3 pictures of my iPad mount. I used a 6 inch Ram arm
with 1.5 inch balls. Mount is Ram as well.
Have flown with it in this position once and really like it using
SkyCharts Pro.
Wish I had the GPS version now!!!
The arm is quickly installed & removed using the big knob which allows
it all to come down from the upper mounting ball.
It does block my view of the GRT EIS though, but did not bother my
pilot passenger.
I did not want to mount it down low for 2 reasons. Too much head down/
up movement for IMC (leads to spatial disorientation) and I have my
halon extinguisher mounted on top of the tunnel with flex hose that
can be inserted into the tunnel quickly and discharged with one hand.
There is a small spring loaded door just aft of the extinguisher
(don't make fun of the velcro!).
grumpy
N184JM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: lower cowl attach alternatives
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2010
I've learned from reading that there seems to be agreement that the piano hinge
isn't strong enough for the two 6 inch attach points at the bottom of the cowl.
What is the generally accepted alternative? Screws/nutplates? Camlocks? Is there
such a thing as stronger hinge, perhaps stainless? Any advice or pix appreciated.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312546#312546
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Subject: Re: lower cowl attach alternatives
My hinges failed after about 100 hours. I installed extensions with 3
nutplates on each of the existing lower flanges. I used the original holes
from the hinge rivets.
After about 500 hours the plane developed a small crack in the lower skin
immediately aft of the extensions. We were able to get a doubler between
the firewall and the skin, and rivet it in place with blind rivets. We
couldn't get to the back of the skin without removing the pilot's floor
board (grimace here) or at least installing a nasty access panel.
At the same time, I replaced the flange extension with a 90 degree bracket
that also puts a few rivets "tail aft" into the firewall, under the floor,
to beef that up as well.
All this is on the left side. So far the right side looks OK.
I check on the cracked area regularly and it seems to be stable now (200
hours).
Early on, I also fabbed a new attach tab for the center of the outlet. The
original failed and was replaced by 2X the original thickness. That's been
working fine for quite a while.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 12:28 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> I've learned from reading that there seems to be agreement that the piano
> hinge isn't strong enough for the two 6 inch attach points at the bottom of
> the cowl.
>
> What is the generally accepted alternative? Screws/nutplates? Camlocks?
> Is there such a thing as stronger hinge, perhaps stainless? Any advice or
> pix appreciated.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312546#312546
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
If the oil temp rises on leaning, you are leaning way too slowly.
During break-in you want to either be at least 100 ROP, or at least 50
LOP. 40-50 ROP will give hottest CHT and oil temps.
LOP fuel flow would be 13.1 for 75% power, so you could set for about
80% ROP and then lean directly to 13 gph and leave it there.
On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Bruce Johnson
wrote:
> Im just starting to fly also with one under my belt and my temps were
> alittle higher than I wanted also. I installed two oil cooler's in hopes of
> avoiding this issue as Deem's had warned me about it. I'm going to put some
> hours on her and see what shakes out. It went up to about 220 on climb out
> and leveled off arounf 205 at about 25MAp And 2500 RPM. It started to climb
> if I leaned any. Let me know if you come up with anything.
>
> Bruce 151BJ
>
> ________________________________
> From: John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wed, September 15, 2010 12:30:47 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
>
> I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade prop as
> others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it doesn't seem
> to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
> My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
> Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
> I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned
> about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
> creeping up there.
> A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
> the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the lower
> cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
>
> John 40315
> Phase 1 Fly off
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
>
> I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
> easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those
> of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg
> or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the
> equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.15860
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.15870
> http://www.pctools.com/en=======================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Thanks, Deems suggested I fly it 25,map and 2500 RPM for the first few and
not =0Ato spare the gas, at least until it stops using oil. I'll find out w
here it =0Aleans and run it 200' rich.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________
__________=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matro
nics.com=0ASent: Wed, September 15, 2010 1:25:50 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Lis
=0A=0AIf the oil temp rises on leaning, you are leaning
way too slowly.=0ADuring break-in you want to either be at least 100 ROP, o
r at least 50=0ALOP.- 40-50 ROP will give hottest CHT and oil temps.=0ALO
P fuel flow would be 13.1 for 75% power, so you could set for about=0A80% R
OP and then lean directly to 13 gph and leave it there.=0A=0AOn Wed, Sep 15
, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Bruce Johnson=0A wrote:=0A> I
m just starting to fly also with one under my belt and my temps were=0A> al
ittle higher than I wanted also. I installed two oil cooler's in hopes of
=0A> avoiding this issue as Deem's had warned me about it. I'm going to put
some=0A> hours on her and see what shakes out. It went up to about 220 on
climb out=0A> and leveled off arounf 205 at about 25MAp And 2500 RPM. It st
arted to climb=0A> if I leaned any. Let me know if you come up with anythin
g.=0A>=0A> Bruce 151BJ=0A>=0A> ________________________________=0A> From: J
ohn Dunne =0A> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A> Sen
t: Wed, September 15, 2010 12:30:47 AM=0A> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower co
opeller.com.au>=0A>=0A> I extended the slot forward to enable easier remova
l of the 3 blade prop as=0A> others have done. I haven't made a cover for t
his area but it doesn't seem=0A> to have made any real difference to the oi
l temps in any case.=0A> My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50
F=0A> Initial running was around 215-216 deg F=0A> I was told everything wi
ll eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned=0A> about the high oil t
emps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps=0A> creeping up there.=0A
> A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
=0A> the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the l
ower=0A> cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?=0A>=0A> John 40315=0A>
Phase 1 Fly off=0A>=0A>=0A> -----Original Message-----=0A> From: owner-rv1
0-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.co
m] On Behalf Of Strasnuts=0A> Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM=0A>
=0A> I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
=0A> easier to put on and take off.- I was wondering if it's worth it for
those=0A> of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the fro
nt gear leg=0A> or leave the same amount of space for cooling.- Was this
space used for the=0A> equation for cooling?- Any pics out there for refe
rence?=0A>=0A> Thanks=0A>=0A> --------=0A> Cust. #40936=0A> RV-10 SB Fusela
ge=0A> N801VR reserved=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Read this topic online here:=0A>
=0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297=0A>=0A>=0A
>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> E-mail message checked by
Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)=0A> Database version: 6.15860=0A> http://www.pc
tools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> E-mail messa
ge checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)=0A> Database version: 6.15870=0A>
http://www.pctools.com/en================
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List
========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
GAMI breaks in their big turbo-charged Continentals at 75-85% power,
LOP after initial climb, and completes full ring seating in less than 5
hours. But main consideration for break-in is to follow advice of
whomever is providing warranty, if any.
On 9/15/2010 2:37 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:
> Thanks, Deems suggested I fly it 25,map and 2500 RPM for the first few
> and not to spare the gas, at least until it stops using oil. I'll find
> out where it leans and run it 200' rich.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Kelly McMullen
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wed, September 15, 2010 1:25:50 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
> >
>
> If the oil temp rises on leaning, you are leaning way too slowly.
> During break-in you want to either be at least 100 ROP, or at least 50
> LOP. 40-50 ROP will give hottest CHT and oil temps.
> LOP fuel flow would be 13.1 for 75% power, so you could set for about
> 80% ROP and then lean directly to 13 gph and leave it there.
>
> On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Bruce Johnson
> > wrote:
> > Im just starting to fly also with one under my belt and my temps were
> > alittle higher than I wanted also. I installed two oil cooler's in
> hopes of
> > avoiding this issue as Deem's had warned me about it. I'm going to
> put some
> > hours on her and see what shakes out. It went up to about 220 on
> climb out
> > and leveled off arounf 205 at about 25MAp And 2500 RPM. It started
> to climb
> > if I leaned any. Let me know if you come up with anything.
> >
> > Bruce 151BJ
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: John Dunne <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au
> >
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Wed, September 15, 2010 12:30:47 AM
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
> >
> >
> >
> > I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade
> prop as
> > others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it
> doesn't seem
> > to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
> > My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
> > Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
> > I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too
> concerned
> > about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
> > creeping up there.
> > A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in
> front of
> > the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the
> lower
> > cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
> >
> > John 40315
> > Phase 1 Fly off
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> > Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
> >
> >
> >
> > I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
> > easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for
> those
> > of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front
> gear leg
> > or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used
> for the
> > equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --------
> > Cust. #40936
> > RV-10 SB Fuselage
> > N801VR reserved
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> > Database version: 6.15860
> > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> > Database version: 6.15870
> > http://www.pctools.com/en=======================
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Full control movement?
Date: Sep 15, 2010
I have noticed in many of the pictures of panels and interiors that the
depth of the instrument panel and height of the stick is clearly going
to limit full nose down
elevator. Perhaps folks think they will never need full nose down
elevator. While we are not supposed to spin the airplane intentionally
I am concerned that recovery from an inadvertent spin might be slowed or
impossible with limited forward stick travel. I wonder how folks with
panel extensions and full length sticks are meeting the design elevator
travel limits.
On my airplane the panel is about 1/2 inch deeper than stock. By
shortening the vertical straight portion of the stick to as short as
possible and still mount an unmodified grip, I have the clearance
necessary to get full down elevator. The stick ends up about two inches
forward of the lower edge of the panel at the full nose down position.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 300 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: lower cowl attach alternatives
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Here is what I did. I replaced the rivets with AN426-4-5 rivets instead of the
An426-3's that were there initially.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312569#312569
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach2_185.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach1_163.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach_158.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: lower cowl attach alternatives
Which makes me ask .... why not use an aluminum angle and rivet to the
firewall as well as the bottom skin??
I don't plan on using the hinge in that area either .... just don't know
how I'm going to do it yet. I do plan on using countersunk screws and
tinnerman washers in that area.
Linn
Linn
On 9/15/2010 8:53 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>
> Here is what I did. I replaced the rivets with AN426-4-5 rivets instead of the
An426-3's that were there initially.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312569#312569
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach2_185.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach1_163.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cowl_attach_158.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Full control movement?
I haven't got to the point of having my panel installed and a stick
grip to test, so this is a 'off the cuff' remark.
I fly a Pitts .... well, let's say I hang on tight .... so that's where
my comments comes from.
If there is interference with the panel, it's not going to make a whole
lot of difference in elevator throw. Bending the curve a little more
will help or eliminate the problem.
To address your spin scenario, proper spin recovery is to briskly apply
rudder opposite the spin to stop rotation and then apply forward stick
(with neutral rudder at this point) to get airflow over the control
surfaces. How much forward stick depends on the size of the elevators,
and the elevators on the -10 appear to be more than sufficient.
Most non-aerobatic pilots would have to really fight to push that stick
full forward ..... it's a real unnatural act. As soon as the butt gets
light in the seat, they change their mind.
I have yet to hear of the spin characteristics of the -10 so don't have
any data. From what I see, looking at the -10, is that it should be
very controllable entering and exiting a spin. I'm sure it's been spun,
but nobody wants to be flamed for it. I also think inadvertent spins
are due to poor piloting skills.
Another way to look at the situation .... how many times do you pull
full stick?? Ever?? In any non aerobatic airplane??? Well, go yank on
the up elevator and feel the Gs ..... and picture that same feeling up
against the seatbelt pushing.
I guess I'm trying to say I don't think it's really a problem.
Linn
On 9/15/2010 8:48 PM, Dick & Vicki Sipp wrote:
> I have noticed in many of the pictures of panels and interiors that
> the depth of the instrument panel and height of the stick is clearly
> going to limit full nose down
> elevator. Perhaps folks think they will never need full nose down
> elevator. While we are not supposed to spin the airplane
> intentionally I am concerned that recovery from an inadvertent spin
> might be slowed or impossible with limited forward stick travel. I
> wonder how folks with panel extensions and full length sticks are
> meeting the design elevator travel limits.
> On my airplane the panel is about 1/2 inch deeper than stock. By
> shortening the vertical straight portion of the stick to as short as
> possible and still mount an unmodified grip, I have the clearance
> necessary to get full down elevator. The stick ends up about two
> inches forward of the lower edge of the panel at the full nose down
> position.
> Dick Sipp
> N110DV 300 hours
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: Full control movement?
Date: Sep 15, 2010
Dick if you look at vans required throw
For the rv-10 it is 20-25 degree.
I think that with proper adjustment and sticks
At reasonable lenghts there should be no
Problems at all. Some people might have a problem
If they make there sticks to long. Even
With the standard panel there could be a problem.
I have been in a 10 with a stock panel and
The stick goes under the panel at full deflection.
It missed the bottom of the panel by 1/4".
That would worry me more than hitting the
Panel.
Just FWIW
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:48 PM, "Dick & Vicki Sipp"
wrote:
> I have noticed in many of the pictures of panels and interiors that
> the depth of the instrument panel and height of the stick is clearly
> going to limit full nose down
> elevator. Perhaps folks think they will never need full nose down
> elevator. While we are not supposed to spin the airplane
> intentionally I am concerned that recovery from an inadvertent spin
> might be slowed or impossible with limited forward stick travel. I
> wonder how folks with panel extensions and full length sticks are
> meeting the design elevator travel limits.
>
> On my airplane the panel is about 1/2 inch deeper than stock. By
> shortening the vertical straight portion of the stick to as short as
> possible and still mount an unmodified grip, I have the clearance
> necessary to get full down elevator. The stick ends up about two
> inches forward of the lower edge of the panel at the full nose down
> position.
>
> Dick Sipp
> N110DV 300 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Full control movement?
Date: Sep 16, 2010
My SteinAir panel is a bit lower than the stock panel and I have
Infinity grips. I had to put just a slight bit more bend in the
sticks to insure clearance.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Dick & Vicki Sipp wrote:
I have noticed in many of the pictures of panels and interiors that
the depth of the instrument panel and height of the stick is clearly
going to limit full nose down
elevator. Perhaps folks think they will never need full nose down
elevator. While we are not supposed to spin the airplane
intentionally I am concerned that recovery from an inadvertent spin
might be slowed or impossible with limited forward stick travel. I
wonder how folks with panel extensions and full length sticks are
meeting the design elevator travel limits.
On my airplane the panel is about 1/2 inch deeper than stock. By
shortening the vertical straight portion of the stick to as short as
possible and still mount an unmodified grip, I have the clearance
necessary to get full down elevator. The stick ends up about two
inches forward of the lower edge of the panel at the full nose down
position.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 300 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FS: TruTrak ADI
Date: Sep 16, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Listers -
I have a new, never mounted, never flown, TruTrak 3-1/8" ADI with
internal GPS that I'm not going to use.
$1250 +Shipping new, asking $1100, shipped CONUS.
Neal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Full control movement?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 16, 2010
There's a bit of manufacturing tolerance in the sticks and/or attach hardware.
I had to bend one stick a bit, while the other was okay! (stock panel).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312659#312659
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2010
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: OT - a nice tool
I found one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Driver-Lithium-Compact-Cordless/dp/B00428HFYA
at Costco a few days ago for $19.95 or so.
What a nice little unit! I bought a little Durofix Li-ion unit about 4
years ago for the same price at Costco. An RV10 later, it still works
great but always wanted EVERYTHING that this little unit from Channel
Lock now has.
If you are a Costco member, I suggest going for it.
Bill "let's do anything but fool around with fiberglass finishing" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 18, 2010
I went to his site and noticed this quote:
"Nylon door strut attach brackets for RV10. Accommodates McMaster Carr seal. Provides
clearance between hinge covers and strut."
The McMaster Carr seal got my attention. I have been trying to trim the lip so
that the door will close with the McM/Carr seals on. How would it make a difference?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312855#312855
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2010
The brackets have been machined so the mcmaster seal can slide on the cabin lip
under the bracket. The bracket fits over the seal it does not squeeze it. It
is also lowered a little bit without changing the geometry so if you have flat
hinge covers they don't interfere.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312859#312859
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bracket_161.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
Date: Sep 18, 2010
It drops the mount point for the strut down about 1/4" so that it clears the
McMaster-Carr door seal.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Attach Struts
-->
I went to his site and noticed this quote:
"Nylon door strut attach brackets for RV10. Accommodates McMaster Carr seal.
Provides clearance between hinge covers and strut."
The McMaster Carr seal got my attention. I have been trying to trim the lip
so that the door will close with the McM/Carr seals on. How would it make a
difference?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312855#312855
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 19, 2010
rleffler wrote:
> It drops the mount point for the strut down about 1/4" so that it clears the
> McMaster-Carr door seal.
>
> bob
>
> --
Bob,
You're the guy I want to ask - how much sanding did you have to do to get the doors
to close properly on the door seals? It seems like I'm going to have to totally
remove the curled lip. Also, it is too snug at the door pin areas. Did
you not put door seal there? Or is there another way?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312902#312902
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
Date: Sep 19, 2010
John,
There have been many folks down this path before me. Geoff Combs is local
to me so I could see what he did with the door seals. Another good source
is Ivan Kristensen.
Take a look at Ivan Kristensen's photo album.
http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606 On the cabin door album, about
half way through the photos, he has a video that will show you enough
information to get you started. I flew with Ivan a couple weeks ago and his
RV-10 turned out great.
I'm not sure what you mean about too snug at the door pin areas. I didn't
have any issues there at all. It sounds like you may have more of the rain
gutter left than I have. Without photos, it's hard to tell.
My door seals will go around 100% of the opening. The same is true with
both Ivan's and Geoff's. There are many others that have been successful
too. Les Kearney wrote a word doc explaining how he did his doors.
I highly recommend Sean's safety latch and strut attach bracket. Both will
make your life easier.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Attach Struts
-->
rleffler wrote:
> It drops the mount point for the strut down about 1/4" so that it
> clears the McMaster-Carr door seal.
>
> bob
>
> --
Bob,
You're the guy I want to ask - how much sanding did you have to do to get
the doors to close properly on the door seals? It seems like I'm going to
have to totally remove the curled lip. Also, it is too snug at the door pin
areas. Did you not put door seal there? Or is there another way?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel N711JG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Attach Struts
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Thanks Bob, Ivan's site was fantastic. Just what I needed.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312928#312928
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door handles
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 19, 2010
After spending another few work sessions and another 50-60 hours trying to refit
my doors I have reached a few conclusions. First I have done nothing as miserable
in my life as screwing with this doors. In 18 years in the Army, Uncle Sam
has yet to throw anything at me that I despised this much. This includes going
6 months without a real shower or real food. I don't even care about pretty
anymore, I just want the things to work.
With that, they work now...sort of. The doors fit, from the inside they latch relatively
easily, and I am getting good movement of the pins. However, the exterior
flush handles I installed are useless in my installation. I can turn them
just enough to get the third latch cam to engage, and the pins to enter the
guides. The exterior handles to not have enough leverage to over come torque required
to completely engage the latches from the outside. What is worse though
is if you have the door fully latched from the inside you can not open the doors
from the outside. Twice now I have literally ripped the handles and the glass
clean apart from the door requiring reglassing and more reinforcement. These
doors are standing between me and attaching the wings. I have wrung out my
avionics and am getting ready to put this thing into the air, I may just have
to do it as a convertible or something. Perhaps it is time to go back to the
exterior handles from Vans and get the leverage back to the latch mechanism.
Eric Kallio
The 9th level of door Hell!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312937#312937
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door handles
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Sorry for the frustration. The RV-10 doors are definitely the achilles heal of
the plane. You should not need a ton of leverage to close the door handles and
I think this would be an unsafe sitution or when you are out at some small
airport without cell coverage you will bust your door up and be stranded.
You may have tried all these but here are some recommendations.
Some things I have seen are door pins that bind going in the cabin guide and structure,
make sure the pins are extending going in parallel to the outside skin
and level through the guide. Run a 7/16 reamer through your door guides and
structure on the same plane as the pins extend.
Super tight seals (like mine) that you have to relieve a little. I ended up squishing
my seal so damn tight that the door would flex, I opened the reveal from
the door to the cabin lip by 1/16 and it made a huge difference and the seal
is still really squished.
I can't remember if you bought my door pins. Of course you think I am trying to
sell them BUT the angled pins and Delrin door guides make a huge difference
with ease of door closing. The delrin acts as a good bearing surface and the
angled pins allow a full 7/16 of mis-alignment. Bullet pins only have 7/32 of
misalignment allowance.
Good luck - wish you lived closer
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312939#312939
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: performance
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Just a few pictures of the trip to the RNO races. Weight was about 2300.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Door handles
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Hi Eric
I feel your pain as I too was in exactly the same position. I also have
flush handles and had one seize for the same reasons you have experienced.
Here are a few suggestions that might help:
1. Get some white grease or similar and use liberally on the door mechanism.
Be sure to get it into the rack and gears.
2. Carefully disassemble the flush door mechanism (there is a small ball
bearing in a recess with a small spring so don't loose them.
3. Grease the inside of the flush door handle.
I found that there is a huge amount of internal friction in the door
mechanism. A little grease makes the door action very sooth and light. If
there is any significant resistance to operating the mechanism when the door
is open, find the source and fix it. I made my door pin holes on either end
of the door slightly oversize as I found that they were binding there as
well.
You may also want to see if the pins are not exactly running straight
through the guide blocks. If the rack is a bit off center from the pin, you
may find putting a slight bend in the pin will allow it to travel straight
through the block and not be pushed up or down by the rack (which can cause
some binding).
A bit of grease on the guide blocks helps as well.
Another factor that may cause a lot of problems is the amount of pressure
required to close the doors. I found that if the doors require a lot of
pressure to "Pull" the doors into place so the pins engage, then it takes a
great deal of effort to insert the pins.
I moved my door frame inboard by about 1/8" on the bottom to reduce the
pressure on the door seals. The amount of effort required to pull the doors
in enough for the pins to engage is not quite light.
Cheers
Les
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: September-19-10 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door handles
After spending another few work sessions and another 50-60 hours trying to
refit my doors I have reached a few conclusions. First I have done nothing
as miserable in my life as screwing with this doors. In 18 years in the
Army, Uncle Sam has yet to throw anything at me that I despised this much.
This includes going 6 months without a real shower or real food. I don't
even care about pretty anymore, I just want the things to work.
With that, they work now...sort of. The doors fit, from the inside they
latch relatively easily, and I am getting good movement of the pins.
However, the exterior flush handles I installed are useless in my
installation. I can turn them just enough to get the third latch cam to
engage, and the pins to enter the guides. The exterior handles to not have
enough leverage to over come torque required to completely engage the
latches from the outside. What is worse though is if you have the door fully
latched from the inside you can not open the doors from the outside. Twice
now I have literally ripped the handles and the glass clean apart from the
door requiring reglassing and more reinforcement. These doors are standing
between me and attaching the wings. I have wrung out my avionics and am
getting ready to put this thing into the air, I may just have to do it as a
convertible or something. Perhaps it is time to go back to the exterior
handles from Vans and get the leverage bac!
k to the latch mechanism.
Eric Kallio
The 9th level of door Hell!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312937#312937
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door handles
From: "conradb" <conradbooze(at)cox.net>
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Eric Kallio;
I have just completed my X-10 doors and overcame the mechanical stiffness
of Van's original door handles with some common Vaseline. Now they close really
great. However, I believe that after a few months I will replace the Vaseline
with some type of good quality white grease. Also, my doors are completed
with the McMaster Carr door seals.
Conrad Booze in Georgia
--------
Conrad Booze
Sr. Engineer
P. O. Box 7028
Warner Robins, GA. 31095
(478)-335-4264
conradbooze(at)cox.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312959#312959
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 19, 2010
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I
thought I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the
subject listed below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however,
when I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to
allow for the bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb
profile doesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the
seal would be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I
decided to use a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a
filler/epoxy profile back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door
seal. I took a 2 foot section of door seal and injected a mix of west
system epoxy and structural filler, (used the cake decorator bag trick
to fill the U shaped profile) then installed the seal section on the
door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times
around the door jamb until the whole thing has the exact mating profile
to the seal. Now the little retaining tang inside the U shaped seal
channel has something to grab hold of and the door seals hold onto the
door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical
tape technique for masking off the windows works great, however I found
with black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process
to distinguish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange
electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to
the tape the color of the tape line would really stand out providing
much better guidance in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding
and filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane
with the shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane,
then when I touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would almost
knock me down. Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I
just took an extension cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in
the tail of the plane. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: cowl mounted light
Date: Sep 19, 2010
I found an instance this morning where a cowl mounted landing/taxi light
might have helped. I have the HIDs in the wingtips and they focus and
merge about 50 feet ahead of the aircraft. During taxi this morning
before daylight I followed the taxi lines over a rubber chock set. After
examination the nose pant rear fiberglass is cracked and I will have to
repair. Still to be determined : whether this is due FBO stupidity
/carelessness or deliberate by some disgruntled airport visitor. The
chock was left on the centerline about 50 from the start of the movement
area point. The location is the only path between the runway environment
and the majority of hangars and covered tie downs. Authorities are still
trying to determine why they were there.. Of all the places to drop
these chocks, if unintentional, this is the only place on the airport
guaranteed to cause damage in the dark. A nose mounted light might have
helped; the wingtip mounted lights were disadvantaged by a 90 degree
turn prior.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 19, 2010
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case the
dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to overheat or
something, it literally started to spark and smoked and that was the end
of a very reliable vac I had for years.
If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter often
Take it for whatever it's worth.
Pascal
From: bob-tcw
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I
thought I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the
subject listed below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however,
when I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to
allow for the bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb
profile doesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the
seal would be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I
decided to use a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a
filler/epoxy profile back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door
seal. I took a 2 foot section of door seal and injected a mix of west
system epoxy and structural filler, (used the cake decorator bag trick
to fill the U shaped profile) then installed the seal section on the
door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times
around the door jamb until the whole thing has the exact mating profile
to the seal. Now the little retaining tang inside the U shaped seal
channel has something to grab hold of and the door seals hold onto the
door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical
tape technique for masking off the windows works great, however I found
with black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process
to distinguish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange
electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to
the tape the color of the tape line would really stand out providing
much better guidance in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding
and filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane
with the shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane,
then when I touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would almost
knock me down. Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I
just took an extension cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in
the tail of the plane. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Sorry to hear of the loss of family friend .... :-P
Best advice is clean often. I have three vacs .... a Sears shop vac
that converts into a leaf (and hangar) blower and two smaller ones. The
Sears has a pleated paper filter and the smaller ones use a foam
filter. I bought a kit that uses a microfiber cloth to cover the foam
filters ....... because the foam filters still let a lot of 'dust'
through. I can wash these and re-use or just blow them off after each
use. I haven't found anything to cover the large paper filter, but shop
air cleans it really well if done often.
The reason I've gone this route is because of a friends surfboard shop
..... and his central vac ..... that got clogged with foam dust and
burnt like Pascal's. Any light material coats the filter reducing
airflow .... and that motor really needs it for cooling. Sand, however,
seems to fall into the bottom of of the vac without clinging to the filters.
Pascal's advice to clean often is spot on!!!
Linn
BTW, I use my leaf blowers to clean the shop (I have a big door on the
shop) and hangars because it gets underneath stuff where a broom won't
go .......
On 9/20/2010 12:04 AM, Pascal wrote:
> 3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
> One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
> work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case
> the dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to
> overheat or something, it literally started to spark and smoked and
> that was the end of a very reliable vac I had for years.
> If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter often
> Take it for whatever it's worth.
> Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Excellent Point! I take for granted that I have worked thru various
shop vacuums over time and have come upon the Fein Turbo III with HEPA
filter. It is a tremondous machine, really sucks, is quiet, and the
filter is awsome. It also has a little secondary filter at the motor
inlet to capture any last little bits that get past the main hepa filter
and even after many days of sanding and cleaning the secondary filter is
completely clean. Over the past 5-6 years we have changed over to the
Fein vacuums at all three of our shops, I think we own 5 of them now.
Highly recommended.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies,
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:04 AM
Subject: ***SPAM*** Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case the
dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to overheat or
something, it literally started to spark and smoked and that was the end
of a very reliable vac I had for years.
If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter
often
Take it for whatever it's worth.
Pascal
From: bob-tcw
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 6:01 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I
thought I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the
subject listed below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however,
when I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to
allow for the bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb
profile doesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the
seal would be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I
decided to use a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a
filler/epoxy profile back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door
seal. I took a 2 foot section of door seal and injected a mix of west
system epoxy and structural filler, (used the cake decorator bag trick
to fill the U shaped profile) then installed the seal section on the
door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times
around the door jamb until the whole thing has the exact mating profile
to the seal. Now the little retaining tang inside the U shaped seal
channel has something to grab hold of and the door seals hold onto the
door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical
tape technique for masking off the windows works great, however I found
with black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process
to distinguish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange
electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to
the tape the color of the tape line would really stand out providing
much better guidance in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding
and filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane
with the shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane,
then when I touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would almost
knock me down. Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I
just took an extension cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in
the tail of the plane. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Check your local hardware store for shop vac filter bags designed for
drywall dust. Much better than the pleated filter alone.
neal
===============
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case the
dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to overheat or
something, it literally started to spark and smoked and that was the end
of a very reliable vac I had for years.
If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter often
Take it for whatever it's worth.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
The secret weapon for my Shop Vac is to use the optional filter bag.
I have a "shop-vac" from Lowes or HomeDepot. It comes with a foam
filter covering the fan input but disposable filter bags are sold as an
option. The bag captures virtually all dust keeping not only the
exhaust dust free, but also the inside of the vacuum. It has a lot of
surface area so it doesn't immediately clog. Very effective. I
figured this one out when doing some concrete grinding in the house....
there are things worse than fiberglass.
If you are using a standard wet/dry shop vac - get and use a filter bag
for better results. Change it with reasonable frequency.
Fiberglass, sandpaper, and a bagged shop vac - we're attached at the
hip. Now if I just had a remote control for the thing.
Will try to attach pic...
Bill "taking a last pass on the doors" Watson
On 9/20/2010 7:49 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> Sorry to hear of the loss of family friend .... :-P
> Best advice is clean often. I have three vacs .... a Sears shop vac
> that converts into a leaf (and hangar) blower and two smaller ones.
> The Sears has a pleated paper filter and the smaller ones use a foam
> filter. I bought a kit that uses a microfiber cloth to cover the foam
> filters ....... because the foam filters still let a lot of 'dust'
> through. I can wash these and re-use or just blow them off after each
> use. I haven't found anything to cover the large paper filter, but
> shop air cleans it really well if done often.
> The reason I've gone this route is because of a friends surfboard shop
> ..... and his central vac ..... that got clogged with foam dust and
> burnt like Pascal's. Any light material coats the filter reducing
> airflow .... and that motor really needs it for cooling. Sand,
> however, seems to fall into the bottom of of the vac without clinging
> to the filters.
>
> Pascal's advice to clean often is spot on!!!
> Linn
>
> BTW, I use my leaf blowers to clean the shop (I have a big door on the
> shop) and hangars because it gets underneath stuff where a broom won't
> go .......
>
>
> On 9/20/2010 12:04 AM, Pascal wrote:
>> 3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
>> One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
>> work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case
>> the dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to
>> overheat or something, it literally started to spark and smoked and
>> that was the end of a very reliable vac I had for years.
>> If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter often
>> Take it for whatever it's worth.
>> Pascal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
One last little piece of advise... buy an extension for the vacuum so you c
an put it outside while vacuuming.=C2- We also did this when removing a t
ile floor in the house.=C2- Keeps the fine dust OUT.
Don
--- On Mon, 9/20/10, Linn Walters wrote:
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 4:49 AM
Sorry to hear of the loss of family friend .... :-P
Best advice is clean often.=C2- I have three vacs .... a Sears shop vac t
hat converts into a leaf (and hangar) blower and two smaller ones.=C2- Th
e Sears has a pleated paper filter and the smaller ones use a foam filter.
=C2- I bought a kit that uses a microfiber cloth to cover the foam filter
s ....... because the foam filters still let a lot of 'dust' through.=C2-
I can wash these and re-use or just blow them off after each use.=C2- I
haven't found anything to cover the large paper filter, but shop air cleans
it really well if done often.=C2-
The reason I've gone this route is because of a friends surfboard shop ....
. and his central vac ..... that got clogged with foam dust and burnt like
Pascal's.=C2- Any light material coats the filter reducing airflow .... a
nd that motor really needs it for cooling.=C2- Sand, however, seems to fa
ll into the bottom of of the vac without clinging to the filters.
Pascal's advice to clean often is spot on!!!
Linn
BTW, I use my leaf blowers to clean the shop (I have a big door on the shop
) and hangars because it gets underneath stuff where a broom won't go .....
..
On 9/20/2010 12:04 AM, Pascal wrote:
3)=C2-Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
One thing I will caution is don=99t use the vacuum when brooming will
work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case the d
ust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to overheat or som
ething, it literally started to spark and smoked and that was the end of a
very reliable vac I had for years.
If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter often
Take it for whatever it's worth.
Pascal
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
BTW, I use my leaf blowers to clean the shop (I have a big door on the
shop) and hangars because it gets underneath stuff where a broom won't
go .......
I have a HF air nozzle that I use to blow the excess off the ground etc.
I also use it to blow dust off the foam filter- amazing how much come
out of the filters even after I "think" it was cleaned.
From: Linn Walters
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 4:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Sorry to hear of the loss of family friend .... :-P
Best advice is clean often. I have three vacs .... a Sears shop vac
that converts into a leaf (and hangar) blower and two smaller ones. The
Sears has a pleated paper filter and the smaller ones use a foam filter.
I bought a kit that uses a microfiber cloth to cover the foam filters
....... because the foam filters still let a lot of 'dust' through. I
can wash these and re-use or just blow them off after each use. I
haven't found anything to cover the large paper filter, but shop air
cleans it really well if done often.
The reason I've gone this route is because of a friends surfboard shop
..... and his central vac ..... that got clogged with foam dust and
burnt like Pascal's. Any light material coats the filter reducing
airflow .... and that motor really needs it for cooling. Sand, however,
seems to fall into the bottom of of the vac without clinging to the
filters.
Pascal's advice to clean often is spot on!!!
Linn
BTW, I use my leaf blowers to clean the shop (I have a big door on the
shop) and hangars because it gets underneath stuff where a broom won't
go .......
On 9/20/2010 12:04 AM, Pascal wrote:
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust:
One thing I will caution is don't use the vacuum when brooming will
work. The fiberglass will literally destroy the shop vac. In my case the
dust was fine enough to clog the filter and cause the vac to overheat or
something, it literally started to spark and smoked and that was the end
of a very reliable vac I had for years.
If one is going to vacuum, and I do when needed, clean the filter
often
Take it for whatever it's worth.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Bob
Your trick for making a profile on the door edge is positively brilliant.
Given that I really don't want to ever finish my doors, I may try that as
well.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob-tcw
Sent: September-19-10 7:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I thought
I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the subject listed
below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however, when I
got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to allow for the
bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb profile doesn't
naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the seal would be prone
to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I decided to use a scrap
piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a filler/epoxy profile back to
the door jamb that exactly matches the door seal. I took a 2 foot section
of door seal and injected a mix of west system epoxy and structural filler,
(used the cake decorator bag trick to fill the U shaped profile) then
installed the seal section on the door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the
seal and repeat 6 more times around the door jamb until the whole thing has
the exact mating profile to the seal. Now the little retaining tang
inside the U shaped seal channel has something to grab hold of and the door
seals hold onto the door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical tape
technique for masking off the windows works great, however I found with
black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process to
distinguish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange
electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to the
tape the color of the tape line would really stand out providing much better
guidance in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding and
filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane with the
shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane, then when I
touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would almost knock me down.
Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I just took an extension
cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in the tail of the plane. All
better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: Door handles
Eric... i absolutely agree with what was already said. Lube the door
pins at least.
I have stock door handles and initially, they still required too much
effort to close, even after polishing and porting a bit. All I did was
put some boelube on the door guides, and it was a night and day difference!
Extra leverage would only cause *something* else to break. (Stealing
Deems voice, ask me how i know.) IMHO, i think the doors should be able
to close with a finger or two, easily.
Jae
#40533
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Hahaha, I absolutely agree with both Les and Bob.
Bob, you forgot to put up a warning, "This post could cause you
countless more hours of work."
I am on a parallel track and glad to see similar things from someone
else. My door frame looked similar to yours after trimming for mcmaster
seals. Especially along the forward edge, near that elbow bend, I was
worried about making it too thin, but I see you had the same experience.
I wish I had known about the wonderful qualities of using electrical
tape for masking work earlier. It easily bends around corners and won't
tear, which both masking tape and blue painters tape will not do easily.
Still on the fence about doing the door edge work. Wish I had bought
some extra door seal material.
Jae
40533
On 9/20/2010 8:41 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Bob
> Your trick for making a profile on the door edge is positively
> brilliant. Given that I really don't want to ever finish my doors, I
> may try that as well.
> Cheers
> Les
> #40643
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Patrick,
1) Regarding the order of events having to do with the panel and the
canopy. I'd say with a 1000 airplanes under construction, you'll get
1000 answers. Here's what I did in order: 1- All work on inside top
surface of canopy including fit-up to fuse 2- Built and finished
overhead plenum with canopy off plane including install of rear windows.
3- Installed canopy on plane then fit doors. 4- completed all wiring
and panel and built my glare shield-defroster plenum detail. 5-
Installed windscreen, built fairing, doing body work on whole
canopy-windscreen-doors as a big single assembly.
2) Regarding the piping around the instrument panel. This is part of
my defroster plenum/ instrument panel detail that I laid up out of
fiberglass. It does three things: deflects defrost air from cooling
fans right onto the windscreen, hides the hand holds cut into fuse that
I don't like and hides the two computer fans that draw warm air out of
instrument panel area, and three, provides a nice rounded finished edge
to frame out the panel. You can see the progression of construction in
the following album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/GlareShieldWindshield#
3) Regarding material used on interior. 1) Filled in voids in interior
canopy that I didn't like with X-30 expanding foam and then reshaped the
way I liked it. 2) laid up a couple layers of light weight cloth over
foam. 3) West system epoxy with a progression of fillers, primarily
407 and 410 filler. 4) Final detail filling with Super-Fil 5) a
ridiculous amount of sanding all along 6) UV super prime -filler
sprayed on with a true HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip 7) more sanding and
now ready for final paint. (I'm using the same process on the
exterior, except no need for any filling with foam as in step 1) see:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/OverheadConsole02# and
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork02# for the
photos
Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
To: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: ***SPAM*** Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Bob, many thanks for the insight, you a saint my friend for us
'fibreglass virgins'.
Could you please assist me with a few questions:
1. I am yet to decide on my panel, I have purchased Geoff's carbon
fibre panel and will be ultimately installing that, how far can I
progress (canopy and front windscreen installation) without completing
the entire panel?
2. Could you please tell me how you did the 'piping' around the
instrument panel coaming and edges?
3. What did you apply to the interior to achieve that smooth
result?
Many thanks from downunder.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, 20 September, 2010 10:31:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I
thought I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the
subject listed below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however,
when I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to
allow for the bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb
profile doesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the
seal would be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I
decided to use a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a
filler/epoxy profile back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door
seal. I took a 2 foot section of door seal and injected a mix of west
system epoxy and structural filler, (used the cake decorator bag trick
to fill the U shaped profile) then installed the seal section on the
door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times
around the door jamb until the whole thing has the exact mating profile
to the seal. Now the little retaining tang inside the U shaped seal
channel has something to grab hold of and the door seals hold onto the
door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical
tape technique for masking off the windows works great, however I found
with black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process
to distinguish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange
electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to
the tape the color of the tape line would really stand out providing
much better guidance in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding
and filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane
with the shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane,
then when I touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would almost
knock me down. Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I
just took an extension cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in
the tail of the plane. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Jae, I too used electrical tape for some window masking. Not sure
what you refer to as "Blue painters" and "masking" tapes but if you mean
the paper type tapes, yes, agreed that the electrical tape works great
for corners and stuff.
What I subsequently found out was that 1/2" blue 3M plastic tape #471 is
better than plain electrical tape. One difference is that the #471
doesn't stretch like electrical tape (a desirable characteristic for
electrical work). It stretches just enough to go around corners but not
enough to distort and subsequently pull away. By not stretching so
much, I found that lays down a straighter line and that it won't pull
off from the corners as the electrical tape tends to do if you stretch
around corners. 1/2" works much better than 3/4" when going around
corners and is the only size I'm using.
For gross masking, I'd suggest the product 1-up from seems to be sold as
blue painters tape. I've been using Scotch 233+ with 1.5" having the
most utility. It's a light green. The adhesive is better and it's just
clearly better stuff. They seem to have a blue and some other line 1 up
from the green too. I'll probably learn the hard way when and where the
1-up from green is needed. At this point, I"m just up to high fill
primer on the glass and interior paint.
For you first time painters, the best thing you can do is find a local
paint distributor and ask a lot of questions and buy all your stuff
there. Prices are better than Home Depot and they sell key stuff in
large sizes like rolls of adhesive sandpaper and big cheap rolls of
cheap-good-excellent quality masking papers. Somebody in there is
probably real knowledgeable and might get a kick out of your project.
On 9/20/2010 12:09 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
> Hahaha, I absolutely agree with both Les and Bob.
>
> Bob, you forgot to put up a warning, "This post could cause you
> countless more hours of work."
>
> I am on a parallel track and glad to see similar things from someone
> else. My door frame looked similar to yours after trimming for
> mcmaster seals. Especially along the forward edge, near that elbow
> bend, I was worried about making it too thin, but I see you had the
> same experience.
>
> I wish I had known about the wonderful qualities of using electrical
> tape for masking work earlier. It easily bends around corners and
> won't tear, which both masking tape and blue painters tape will not do
> easily.
>
> Still on the fence about doing the door edge work. Wish I had bought
> some extra door seal material.
>
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trutrak Digiflite VSGV
Date: Sep 20, 2010
I checked with TT and the trim wheel on their screen, while looking like
the manual trim wheel in other aircraft, works just the opposite. That
is if the TT wheel moves from top to bottom, down trim is required.
using manual trim the required movement for down trim is to roll the
wheel from bottom to top. Versteh?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: masking tapes
OK, I changed the subject line!
On 9/20/2010 1:49 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> Jae, I too used electrical tape for some window masking. Not sure
> what you refer to as "Blue painters" and "masking" tapes but if you
> mean the paper type tapes, yes, agreed that the electrical tape works
> great for corners and stuff.
>
> What I subsequently found out was that 1/2" blue 3M plastic tape #471
> is better than plain electrical tape. One difference is that the #471
> doesn't stretch like electrical tape (a desirable characteristic for
> electrical work). It stretches just enough to go around corners but
> not enough to distort and subsequently pull away. By not stretching
> so much, I found that lays down a straighter line and that it won't
> pull off from the corners as the electrical tape tends to do if you
> stretch around corners. 1/2" works much better than 3/4" when going
> around corners and is the only size I'm using.
Also when you get to the painting stage, use the 3M fineline masking
tapes. Green is great for straight lines and light curves, blue is for
more radical curves. the stuff is expensive, but this is not the time
to scrimp. Urethane paints will bleed under the paper tape edge leaving
you with a lot of cleanup work. Lay the 3M tape down and rub with a
hard rubber squeegee. I use 1/2" green/blue mostly with 1/4" blue for
really sharp curves. I lay the masking paper next to the 3M tape and
tape with cheap blue paper tape. After spraying and waiting an hour or
so, I remove the masking paper and then remove the 3M fineline tape
being careful to pull the tape right back over itself. This way the
semi-soft paint will flow a little at the edge so you don't have a real
raised paint line.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike(at)msn.com>
Subject: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Bob can you share the product info on the foam you used? Not familiar with
the X-30 reference. Thank you!
From: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Subject: RE. RV10-List: Doors and body work
Date: Mon=2C 20 Sep 2010 12:29:51 -0400
Patrick=2C
1) Regarding the order of events having to do with the panel and the canopy
. I'd say with a 1000 airplanes under construction=2C you'll get 1000 ans
wers. Here's what I did in order: 1- All work on inside top surface of
canopy including fit-up to fuse 2- Built and finished overhead plenum with
canopy off plane including install of rear windows. 3- Installed canopy o
n plane then fit doors. 4- completed all wiring and panel and built my gl
are shield-defroster plenum detail. 5- Installed windscreen=2C built fair
ing=2C doing body work on whole canopy-windscreen-doors as a big single ass
embly.
2) Regarding the piping around the instrument panel. This is part of my
defroster plenum/ instrument panel detail that I laid up out of fiberglass.
It does three things: deflects defrost air from cooling fans right onto
the windscreen=2C hides the hand holds cut into fuse that I don't like and
hides the two computer fans that draw warm air out of instrument panel are
a=2C and three=2C provides a nice rounded finished edge to frame out the p
anel. You can see the progression of construction in the following album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/GlareShieldWindshield#
3) Regarding material used on interior. 1) Filled in voids in interior ca
nopy that I didn't like with X-30 expanding foam and then reshaped the way
I liked it. 2) laid up a couple layers of light weight cloth over foam. 3
) West system epoxy with a progression of fillers=2C primarily 407 and 410
filler. 4) Final detail filling with Super-Fil 5) a ridiculous amount
of sanding all along 6) UV super prime -filler sprayed on with a true H
VLP gun with a 1.8 tip 7) more sanding and now ready for final paint.
(I'm using the same process on the exterior=2C except no need for any fill
ing with foam as in step 1) see: http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/
OverheadConsole02# and http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/Fiberglas
sWork02# for the photos
Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
Sent: Sunday=2C September 19=2C 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: ***SPAM*** Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Bob=2C many thanks for the insight=2C you a saint my friend for us 'fibregl
ass virgins'.
Could you please assist me with a few questions:
1. I am yet to decide on my panel=2C I have purchased Geoff's carbon fib
re panel and will be ultimately installing that=2C how far can I progress (
canopy and front windscreen installation) without completing the entire pan
el?
2. Could you please tell me how you did the 'piping' around the instrume
nt panel coaming and edges?
3. What did you apply to the interior to achieve that smooth result?
Many thanks from downunder.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide=2C South Australia
From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Sent: Mon=2C 20 September=2C 2010 10:31:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders=2C
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I thought
I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the subject liste
d below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route=2C however=2C wh
en I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to allow for
the bulb on the seal=2C I went one step further. The door jamb profile d
oesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal=2C so the seal woul
d be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I decided to us
e a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a filler/epoxy profil
e back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door seal. I took a 2 fo
ot section of door seal and injected a mix of west system epoxy and structu
ral filler=2C (used the cake decorator bag trick to fill the U shaped prof
ile) then installed the seal section on the door jamb and let it set- up.
Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times around the door jamb until the who
le thing has the exact mating profile to the seal. Now the little retain
ing tang inside the U shaped seal channel has something to grab hold of and
the door seals hold onto the door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The electrical tape
technique for masking off the windows works great=2C however I found with
black electrical tape it was very hard during the sanding process to distin
guish between the tape and the filler. I switched to orange electrical t
ape=2C a huge improvement!. As I'd sand the filler down to the tape the
color of the tape line would really stand out providing much better guidanc
e in terms of sanding depth onto to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this sanding and
filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the plane with the s
hop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the plane=2C then when I t
ouched it=2C wham! the mother of static shocks would almost knock me down.
Solution=2C I grounded the plane!. Problem solved. I just took an ex
tension cord with a metal box on the end and laid it in the tail of the pla
ne. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies=2C LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" rel
=nofollow rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution ===========
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
X-30 foam can be found at the following aircraft spruce link:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
Its a two part high density expanding foam that sands really nicely once
cured.
-Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 6:34 PM
Subject: ***SPAM*** RE: RE. RV10-List: Doors and body work
Bob can you share the product info on the foam you used? Not familiar
with the X-30 reference. Thank you!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE. RV10-List: Doors and body work
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:29:51 -0400
Patrick,
1) Regarding the order of events having to do with the panel and the
canopy. I'd say with a 1000 airplanes under construction, you'll get
1000 answers. Here's what I did in order: 1- All work on inside top
surface of canopy including fit-up to fuse 2- Built and finished
overhead plenum with canopy off plane including install of rear windows.
3- Installed canopy on plane then fit doors. 4- completed all wiring
and panel and built my glare shield-defroster plenum detail. 5-
Installed windscreen, built fairing, doing body work on whole
canopy-windscreen-doors as a big single assembly.
2) Regarding the piping around the instrument panel. This is part
of my defroster plenum/ instrument panel detail that I laid up out of
fiberglass. It does three things: deflects defrost air from cooling
fans right onto the windscreen, hides the hand holds cut into fuse that
I don't like and hides the two computer fans that draw warm air out of
instrument panel area, and three, provides a nice rounded finished edge
to frame out the panel. You can see the progression of construction in
the following album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/GlareShieldWindshield#
3) Regarding material used on interior. 1) Filled in voids in
interior canopy that I didn't like with X-30 expanding foam and then
reshaped the way I liked it. 2) laid up a couple layers of light weight
cloth over foam. 3) West system epoxy with a progression of fillers,
primarily 407 and 410 filler. 4) Final detail filling with Super-Fil
5) a ridiculous amount of sanding all along 6) UV super prime
-filler sprayed on with a true HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip 7) more
sanding and now ready for final paint. (I'm using the same process on
the exterior, except no need for any filling with foam as in step 1)
see: http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/OverheadConsole02# and
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork02# for the
photos
Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
To: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: ***SPAM*** Re: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Bob, many thanks for the insight, you a saint my friend for us
'fibreglass virgins'.
Could you please assist me with a few questions:
1. I am yet to decide on my panel, I have purchased Geoff's
carbon fibre panel and will be ultimately installing that, how far can I
progress (canopy and front windscreen installation) without completing
the entire panel?
2. Could you please tell me how you did the 'piping' around the
instrument panel coaming and edges?
3. What did you apply to the interior to achieve that smooth
result?
Many thanks from downunder.
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: bob-tcw <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, 20 September, 2010 10:31:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doors and body work
Fellow builders,
There's been a lot of talk lately regarding doors and seals so I
thought I'd offer up my progress ( and photos) . Two albums on the
subject listed below.
Some observations along the way:
1) Regarding the door seals: I went the McMaster route, however,
when I got done trimming the door jambs back to the proper depth to
allow for the bulb on the seal, I went one step further. The door jamb
profile doesn't naturally match the U shaped profile of the seal, so the
seal would be prone to slipping off without some type of adhesive. I
decided to use a scrap piece of the seal profile as a mould to add a
filler/epoxy profile back to the door jamb that exactly matches the door
seal. I took a 2 foot section of door seal and injected a mix of west
system epoxy and structural filler, (used the cake decorator bag trick
to fill the U shaped profile) then installed the seal section on the
door jamb and let it set- up. Remove the seal and repeat 6 more times
around the door jamb until the whole thing has the exact mating profile
to the seal. Now the little retaining tang inside the U shaped seal
channel has something to grab hold of and the door seals hold onto the
door jamb very well.
2) Regarding filling and sanding around the windows: The
electrical tape technique for masking off the windows works great,
however I found with black electrical tape it was very hard during the
sanding process to distinguish between the tape and the filler. I
switched to orange electrical tape, a huge improvement!. As I'd sand
the filler down to the tape the color of the tape line would really
stand out providing much better guidance in terms of sanding depth onto
to the tape.
3) Regarding vacuuming up the filler dust: Whilst all this
sanding and filling is going on I found that when I would clean up the
plane with the shop vac I'd develop an enormous static charge on the
plane, then when I touched it, wham! the mother of static shocks would
almost knock me down. Solution, I grounded the plane!. Problem
solved. I just took an extension cord with a metal box on the end and
laid it in the tail of the plane. All better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/BodyWork#
http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/DoorsLatchesSeals#
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder #40176
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" rel=nofollow
rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Engine surging on RV 10 on Landing approach
Date: Sep 20, 2010
It has been my practice to enter the airport pattern on the right tank
due
to left hand circuits and in my experience mostly left hand crosswinds.
This
practice has served me well until recently.
I was coming back to Kitchener Ontario from Portsmouth NH just after
hurricane Earl had moved up the US East coast and the winds were strong
and
gusting from the north west. The trip which usually takes 2.5 hrs took 3
hours and 40 minutes. Most of the trip I was grounding 120 to 125 kts
but at
times I was down to 107 kts.
As I approached my home airport I was cleared to a 4 mile final on
runway 26
with reported winds 300 at 23 gusting 37 knots.
This gave me a 40 degree cross wind. I had 9 gals in the left and 7 gals
in
the right tank and had chosen the right tank for approach and landing. I
was
indicating 110 kts on approach but grounding 75. Runway 26 is 7500 feet
and
I had decided not to land at the threshold due to past experience with
turbulence at the threshold of 26 due to some trees. I was planning to
attempt touch down about =BC way down the runway. The turbulence on
approach
was considerable and I need almost all of the left rudder to keep the
right
wing low and the aircraft lined up with the runway. As I came over the
threshold the engine began to surge adding to the difficulty to keep the
aircraft stable. I generally land power off so I decided rather than
switch
tanks I just pulled power to idle and continued with the landing. My
major
concern at the time was that this had now become a landing and not an
attempt to land as I had no power to go around. As fortune would have it
the
turbulence subsided as I went into the flair and the landing was
uneventful.
I switched to left tank and taxied back to the hangar. My family was
onboard
and we talked about what had just happen and I said I would trouble
shoot
the problem as this was not a situation that I would like repeated.
I decided to drain the fuel tanks to confirm the gauges were accurate
and
yes they were and I had 9 gals in the left and 7 gals in the right. I
pulled
the gascolator and it was free of debris. I did a fuel flow test on each
side and confirmed that the flows were good.
The weather was clear today so I decided to see if I could duplicate the
surging but at 4000 feet.
The aircraft did not surge on either tank while taxiing or in cruise and
in
coordinated turns.
I turned on the boost pump put the selector on the right tank and was
burning 13 gal/hr at 120 knots. I set the timer, dropped the right wing
and
put in full left rudder to hold a steady heading. 31 seconds later the
engine began to surge. I switched to the left tank and seconds later the
engine recovered and ran smoothly. I repeated this experiment 3 times on
the
right tank and the interval was 31 to 35 seconds. I switched to the left
tank and did the same tests and the results were the same.
I believe the fuel pick up which is located at the lowest corner of the
fuel
tank is being unported when the fuel moves to the wing extremities in
these
uncoordinated maneuvers.
I intend to do this experiment with more fuel in the tank to see at what
fuel levels the pick up can be unported. I will also test this on my F1
Rocket.
It looks like my pattern approach has to be rethought and cross winds
considered when I select which tank to land on.
There does not seem to be an end to the stuff to learn in this endeavor.
Wayne Hadath
RV 10, 82 hrs
F1 Rocket, 435 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Engine surging on RV 10 on Landing approach
Date: Sep 20, 2010
Wayne, that is an awesome report....thanks! Fits in with a recent conversat
ion on minimum useable fuel we just had here a couple weeks ago.
Tim
On Sep 20, 2010, at 7:19 PM, "Wayne Hadath" wrote:
> It has been my practice to enter the airport pattern on the right tank due
to left hand circuits and in my experience mostly left hand crosswinds. Thi
s practice has served me well until recently.
> I was coming back to Kitchener Ontario from Portsmouth NH just after hurri
cane Earl had moved up the US East coast and the winds were strong and gusti
ng from the north west. The trip which usually takes 2.5 hrs took 3 hours an
d 40 minutes. Most of the trip I was grounding 120 to 125 kts but at times I
was down to 107 kts.
> As I approached my home airport I was cleared to a 4 mile final on runway 2
6 with reported winds 300 at 23 gusting 37 knots.
> This gave me a 40 degree cross wind. I had 9 gals in the left and 7 gals i
n the right tank and had chosen the right tank for approach and landing. I w
as indicating 110 kts on approach but grounding 75. Runway 26 is 7500 feet a
nd I had decided not to land at the threshold due to past experience with tu
rbulence at the threshold of 26 due to some trees. I was planning to attempt
touch down about =C2=BC way down the runway. The turbulence on approach was
considerable and I need almost all of the left rudder to keep the right win
g low and the aircraft lined up with the runway. As I came over the threshol
d the engine began to surge adding to the difficulty to keep the aircraft st
able. I generally land power off so I decided rather than switch tanks I jus
t pulled power to idle and continued with the landing. My major concern at t
he time was that this had now become a landing and not an attempt to land as
I had no power to go around. As fortune would have it the turbulence subsid
ed as I went into the flair and the landing was uneventful. I switched to le
ft tank and taxied back to the hangar. My family was onboard and we talked a
bout what had just happen and I said I would trouble shoot the problem as th
is was not a situation that I would like repeated.
> I decided to drain the fuel tanks to confirm the gauges were accurate and y
es they were and I had 9 gals in the left and 7 gals in the right. I pulled t
he gascolator and it was free of debris. I did a fuel flow test on each side
and confirmed that the flows were good.
> The weather was clear today so I decided to see if I could duplicate the s
urging but at 4000 feet.
> The aircraft did not surge on either tank while taxiing or in cruise and i
n coordinated turns.
> I turned on the boost pump put the selector on the right tank and was burn
ing 13 gal/hr at 120 knots. I set the timer, dropped the right wing and put
in full left rudder to hold a steady heading. 31 seconds later the engine b
egan to surge. I switched to the left tank and seconds later the engine reco
vered and ran smoothly. I repeated this experiment 3 times on the right tank
and the interval was 31 to 35 seconds. I switched to the left tank and did t
he same tests and the results were the same.
> I believe the fuel pick up which is located at the lowest corner of the fu
el tank is being unported when the fuel moves to the wing extremities in the
se uncoordinated maneuvers.
> I intend to do this experiment with more fuel in the tank to see at what f
uel levels the pick up can be unported. I will also test this on my F1 Rock
et.
> It looks like my pattern approach has to be rethought and cross winds cons
idered when I select which tank to land on.
> There does not seem to be an end to the stuff to learn in this endeavor.
> Wayne Hadath
> RV 10, 82 hrs
> F1 Rocket, 435 hrs
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: doors and body work
Date: Sep 20, 2010
The idea of grounding the plane is great=2C but wasteful. I hooked my wirin
g to the vacuum and used the electricity to power it. Kind of like perpetua
l motion. Maybe I can store up the charge from all the work=2C including sa
nding and I will forget the gas for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: doors and body work
Date: Sep 21, 2010
Is John the recipient of some of that government money for wind generators?
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 10:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: doors and body work
The idea of grounding the plane is great, but wasteful. I hooked my wiring
to the vacuum and used the electricity to power it. Kind of like perpetual
motion. Maybe I can store up the charge from all the work, including sanding
and I will forget the gas for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RE. Doors and body work
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sep 21, 2010
I'm pretty sure he's referring to Tap Plastics X-30 expanding foam. Expands 30
times and is hand mixed. I don't think X-30 is fireproof, so I would put it in
the same category as Great Stuff. If you're building a boat, X-30 is perfect
for filling voids.
I've been using Abesco FP200. It's fire resistant and won't hold moisture. It only
expands about 2x but that is sometimes a good thing in tight places. It hardens
as a "beautiful blob of bright pink." It will match the canopy and doors,
so you won't have to paint (g).
It's a little pricey when you get it shipped - I typically pay about $45 total
for two cans. The cans are big and tall, but probably put out the same amount
as a Great Stuff can.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Working on Cowling & Panel
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313198#313198
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ed Mueller <ed(at)muellerartcover.com>
Subject: Re: Engine surging on RV 10 on Landing approach
Date: Sep 21, 2010
Different airplane, but in my Beech Sierra maximum slip duration is
30 seconds.
Ed
On Sep 20, 2010, at 8:19 PM, Wayne Hadath wrote:
>
> It has been my practice to enter the airport pattern on the right
> tank due to left hand circuits and in my experience mostly left
> hand crosswinds. This practice has served me well until recently.
> I was coming back to Kitchener Ontario from Portsmouth NH just
> after hurricane Earl had moved up the US East coast and the winds
> were strong and gusting from the north west. The trip which usually
> takes 2.5 hrs took 3 hours and 40 minutes. Most of the trip I was
> grounding 120 to 125 kts but at times I was down to 107 kts.
>
> As I approached my home airport I was cleared to a 4 mile final on
> runway 26 with reported winds 300 at 23 gusting 37 knots.
>
> This gave me a 40 degree cross wind. I had 9 gals in the left and 7
> gals in the right tank and had chosen the right tank for approach
> and landing. I was indicating 110 kts on approach but grounding 75.
> Runway 26 is 7500 feet and I had decided not to land at the
> threshold due to past experience with turbulence at the threshold
> of 26 due to some trees. I was planning to attempt touch down about
> way down the runway. The turbulence on approach was considerable
> and I need almost all of the left rudder to keep the right wing low
> and the aircraft lined up with the runway. As I came over the
> threshold the engine began to surge adding to the difficulty to
> keep the aircraft stable. I generally land power off so I decided
> rather than switch tanks I just pulled power to idle and continued
> with the landing. My major concern at the time was that this had
> now become a landing and not an attempt to land as I had no power
> to go around. As fortune would have it the turbulence subsided as I
> went into the flair and the landing was uneventful. I switched to
> left tank and taxied back to the hangar. My family was onboard and
> we talked about what had just happen and I said I would trouble
> shoot the problem as this was not a situation that I would like
> repeated.
>
> I decided to drain the fuel tanks to confirm the gauges were
> accurate and yes they were and I had 9 gals in the left and 7 gals
> in the right. I pulled the gascolator and it was free of debris. I
> did a fuel flow test on each side and confirmed that the flows were
> good.
>
> The weather was clear today so I decided to see if I could
> duplicate the surging but at 4000 feet.
>
> The aircraft did not surge on either tank while taxiing or in
> cruise and in coordinated turns.
>
> I turned on the boost pump put the selector on the right tank and
> was burning 13 gal/hr at 120 knots. I set the timer, dropped the
> right wing and put in full left rudder to hold a steady heading.
> 31 seconds later the engine began to surge. I switched to the left
> tank and seconds later the engine recovered and ran smoothly. I
> repeated this experiment 3 times on the right tank and the interval
> was 31 to 35 seconds. I switched to the left tank and did the same
> tests and the results were the same.
>
> I believe the fuel pick up which is located at the lowest corner of
> the fuel tank is being unported when the fuel moves to the wing
> extremities in these uncoordinated maneuvers.
>
> I intend to do this experiment with more fuel in the tank to see at
> what fuel levels the pick up can be unported. I will also test
> this on my F1 Rocket.
>
> It looks like my pattern approach has to be rethought and cross
> winds considered when I select which tank to land on.
>
> There does not seem to be an end to the stuff to learn in this
> endeavor.
>
> Wayne Hadath
>
> RV 10, 82 hrs
>
> F1 Rocket, 435 hrs
>
>
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance
From: "kevino" <kevino(at)worldwarehouse.com>
Date: Sep 21, 2010
Just to add another endorsement of the TT auto trim, i paid the 625 and thought
it was a bargain. Makes a huge difference shooting approaches. Also added the
safety trim which gives you two trim speeds which smooths out any trim adjustments.
I never see any out of trim indicator on the TT.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313251#313251
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: performance
Date: Sep 21, 2010
Regarding the use of Safety-Trim with TruTrak's autotrim feature: The
Safety-Trim controller feeds into the TT autotrim module where the switch
inputs would normally go. This allows all the benefits of speed control
and run-away trim prevention provided by the Safety-Trimcontroller to
protect the manual control portion of the trim system. When the autopilot
needs to trim the plane it effectively takes trim authority away from the
pilot for just the time required to get the plane trimmed, then returns the
authority back to the Safety-Trim controller. The guys from TT will have
to chime in on their autotrim reliability, I can't provide any details on
that. However, we've had zero issues reported with the combined system.
Regarding the run-away trim prevention feature of Safety-Trim vs that of
Vertical Power: Although similiar they are not the same. The
Safety-Trim system can be reset by clearing the fault in the control stick
switch (ie the coolie hat or rocker switch) or if you really need more
than 3 seconds worth of trim, just release the stick switch and press again
to get up to 3 more seconds worth of trim. This mode of operation is
protected by our recently issued patent. The VP system will disable the
trim switch during this case and you must use the soft keys on VP control
system screen to clear the "fault". This how I understand their system
to work.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
www.tcwtech.com
builder # 40176
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: performance
Thanks Bob, I should have stated that it was different entirely, but
was just referring to the 3-second cutoff. Yours obviously has more
features.
I am curious as to if there would be anything preventing a Safety-Trim
from being inline between a VP-200 and TruTrak Auto Trim? The reason I
ask is that I'd like the speed change, which I don't believe the VP-200
has yet. Would the 3-second VP-200 cutoff interfere with the
Safety-Trim at all?
VP-200 -> Safety-Trim -> Auto Trim. Seems like a lot of "things" in
front of the pitch trim servo. :)
-Sean
> Regarding the run-away trim prevention feature of Safety-Trim vs that
> of Vertical Power: Although similiar they are not the same. The
> Safety-Trim system can be reset by clearing the fault in the control
> stick switch (ie the coolie hat or rocker switch) or if you really
> need more than 3 seconds worth of trim, just release the stick switch
> and press again to get up to 3 more seconds worth of trim. This mode
> of operation is protected by our recently issued patent. The VP
> system will disable the trim switch during this case and you must use
> the soft keys on VP control system screen to clear the "fault".
> This how I understand their system to work.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies, LLC
> www.tcwtech.com
> builder # 40176
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: performance
My mistake. The VP-200 does adjust trim speed. Sorry.
On 9/21/10 6:19 PM, bob-tcw wrote:
>
> Regarding the use of Safety-Trim with TruTrak's autotrim feature:
> The Safety-Trim controller feeds into the TT autotrim module where the
> switch inputs would normally go. This allows all the benefits of
> speed control and run-away trim prevention provided by the
> Safety-Trimcontroller to protect the manual control portion of the
> trim system. When the autopilot needs to trim the plane it
> effectively takes trim authority away from the pilot for just the time
> required to get the plane trimmed, then returns the authority back to
> the Safety-Trim controller. The guys from TT will have to chime in
> on their autotrim reliability, I can't provide any details on that.
> However, we've had zero issues reported with the combined system.
>
>
> Regarding the run-away trim prevention feature of Safety-Trim vs that
> of Vertical Power: Although similiar they are not the same. The
> Safety-Trim system can be reset by clearing the fault in the control
> stick switch (ie the coolie hat or rocker switch) or if you really
> need more than 3 seconds worth of trim, just release the stick switch
> and press again to get up to 3 more seconds worth of trim. This mode
> of operation is protected by our recently issued patent. The VP
> system will disable the trim switch during this case and you must use
> the soft keys on VP control system screen to clear the "fault".
> This how I understand their system to work.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies, LLC
> www.tcwtech.com
> builder # 40176
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: performance
Date: Sep 21, 2010
VP does have the speed change at this time. I have had it working on
my airplane for several months. Works great.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Sep 21, 2010, at 7:58 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
Thanks Bob, I should have stated that it was different entirely,
but was just referring to the 3-second cutoff. Yours obviously has
more features.
I am curious as to if there would be anything preventing a Safety-
Trim from being inline between a VP-200 and TruTrak Auto Trim? The
reason I ask is that I'd like the speed change, which I don't believe
the VP-200 has yet. Would the 3-second VP-200 cutoff interfere with
the Safety-Trim at all?
VP-200 -> Safety-Trim -> Auto Trim. Seems like a lot of "things" in
front of the pitch trim servo. :)
-Sean
> Regarding the run-away trim prevention feature of Safety-Trim vs
> that of Vertical Power: Although similiar they are not the
> same. The Safety-Trim system can be reset by clearing the fault
> in the control stick switch (ie the coolie hat or rocker switch)
> or if you really need more than 3 seconds worth of trim, just
> release the stick switch and press again to get up to 3 more
> seconds worth of trim. This mode of operation is protected by our
> recently issued patent. The VP system will disable the trim
> switch during this case and you must use the soft keys on VP
> control system screen to clear the "fault". This how I
> understand their system to work.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies, LLC
> www.tcwtech.com
> builder # 40176
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: performance
Date: Sep 21, 2010
I believe if you would want to use all three products the VP-200 would
provide the power to the Safety-Trim and Autotrim (and autopilot) modules.
You wouldn't utilize the trim driving control aspect of the VP system. I
do believe that Marc has some type of trim speed control his in VP units,
don't know if its in all of them.
Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Since we have drifted into a pitch trim discussion, here's a basic problem I
recently encountered with a probable solution. My pitch works great pushing
for nose down trim, but the up portion has become intermittent. Certainly
not good and in trouble shooting I thought the motor in the trim servo had a
bad spot that would keep it from moving but would start if I could get it
repositioned by moving the other way (old school electric motor thinking I
suspect). I spoke to Andy at Ray Allen and apparently they had a number of
their REL-1 relays go bad and this was the symptom (works one way, but not
the other due to the relay failing internally). The new REL-2 relay is more
robust and fixes this. I will trouble shoot some more (get the system to
fail and tap on the relay was the guidance) and if confirmed Andy offered to
sell me a REL-2 at half price (makes it $23 from what I can tell).
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
Date: Sep 22, 2010
in addition, Ray Allen told me that the speed controller ($45) would also
slow the trim servo response to allow finer tuning. My "safety trim" is 2
pullable breakers that remove power to the trim and/or AP. I don't fly
substantially above Va.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 5:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: performance (pitch trim)
>
> Since we have drifted into a pitch trim discussion, here's a basic problem
> I
> recently encountered with a probable solution. My pitch works great
> pushing
> for nose down trim, but the up portion has become intermittent. Certainly
> not good and in trouble shooting I thought the motor in the trim servo had
> a
> bad spot that would keep it from moving but would start if I could get it
> repositioned by moving the other way (old school electric motor thinking I
> suspect). I spoke to Andy at Ray Allen and apparently they had a number
> of
> their REL-1 relays go bad and this was the symptom (works one way, but
> not
> the other due to the relay failing internally). The new REL-2 relay is
> more
> robust and fixes this. I will trouble shoot some more (get the system to
> fail and tap on the relay was the guidance) and if confirmed Andy offered
> to
> sell me a REL-2 at half price (makes it $23 from what I can tell).
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Why use relays if the trim switches can handle the trim motor current? Relays are
just another part to fail. I wired my trim switches directly and they've worked
great for several years....
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 22, 2010, at 7:19 AM, "Marcus Cooper" wrote:
>
> Since we have drifted into a pitch trim discussion, here's a basic problem I
> recently encountered with a probable solution. My pitch works great pushing
> for nose down trim, but the up portion has become intermittent. Certainly
> not good and in trouble shooting I thought the motor in the trim servo had a
> bad spot that would keep it from moving but would start if I could get it
> repositioned by moving the other way (old school electric motor thinking I
> suspect). I spoke to Andy at Ray Allen and apparently they had a number of
> their REL-1 relays go bad and this was the symptom (works one way, but not
> the other due to the relay failing internally). The new REL-2 relay is more
> robust and fixes this. I will trouble shoot some more (get the system to
> fail and tap on the relay was the guidance) and if confirmed Andy offered to
> sell me a REL-2 at half price (makes it $23 from what I can tell).
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door handles
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Both my flush door handle bases have come out during door fit as well. These were
originally epoxied using flocked cotton and west systems. I am redoing both
with a base of the above plus reinforcing glass cross pieces... and am adding
a screw to the aft lip as it gets the most torque.
I'd suggest that the manufacturer add several lips in the handle base to allow
screws to be added where desired... Like this maybe:
^ ^
-----O
v v
My doors are REALLY tight too. I added lube and that helped some. Polishing the
pin tubes helps. I suspect that the root cause is that the pin tubes are not
running true throughout their movement cycle. I expect lots of small iterations
to get it right.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313365#313365
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Just talked to Zak and determined the following.
1. when the AP is OFF or is not powered, the auto trim module reverts to
manual trim and internally reconnects the lines as though no auto trim
exists.
2. The auto trim does not lower the input voltage to the trim servo but
pulses the servo at standard voltage.
3. The rheostat on the trim box changes the pulse rate.
4. the cutting of the power wires to the trim servo is unknown when
connecting, the switch on the box allows reversal of the trim direction
depending on the hook up of the system.
5. The original 9 pin dub to the pitch servo is disconnected and a new
short cable is made to connect to the auto trim dsub. Additionally
another short dsub harness is made for the auto trim box to pitch servo
connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Trutrak auto trim
All this talk of auto trim, manual trim, safety trim and slow trim
begs the question ...... has anyone found the trim system so bad that
they had to retrofit the trim system add-ons? Does the airplane get so
far out of trim that the AP kicks offline? Is all this cost,
complexity, and installation time necessary???
Just askin'.
Linn
On 9/22/2010 11:00 AM, DLM wrote:
> Just talked to Zak and determined the following.
> 1. when the AP is OFF or is not powered, the auto trim module reverts
> to manual trim and internally reconnects the lines as though no auto
> trim exists.
> 2. The auto trim does not lower the input voltage to the trim servo
> but pulses the servo at standard voltage.
> 3. The rheostat on the trim box changes the pulse rate.
> 4. the cutting of the power wires to the trim servo is unknown when
> connecting, the switch on the box allows reversal of the trim
> direction depending on the hook up of the system.
> 5. The original 9 pin dub to the pitch servo is disconnected and a new
> short cable is made to connect to the auto trim dsub. Additionally
> another short dsub harness is made for the auto trim box to pitch
> servo connection.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Yes, it does get out of trim and kicks off. Has happened to me once or
twice. It happens when things get real busy and you are using the auto
pilot to help manage the work load..thus when you need it the most..it adds
to the work load.
Now to be clear. The autopilot does not disengage, just the servo. It
disengages for a second and then tries again. A little bit of trim in the
right direction and everything is fine again.
I think I am going to add the TT autotrim to my annual wish list. When I am
a couple of months out from the annual I will have to decide. This will
have to compete with the other item on the list. Upgrade of one of my GRT
screens...
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
All this talk of auto trim, manual trim, safety trim and slow trim begs the
question ...... has anyone found the trim system so bad that they had to
retrofit the trim system add-ons? Does the airplane get so far out of trim
that the AP kicks offline? Is all this cost, complexity, and installation
time necessary???
Just askin'.
Linn
On 9/22/2010 11:00 AM, DLM wrote:
Just talked to Zak and determined the following.
1. when the AP is OFF or is not powered, the auto trim module reverts to
manual trim and internally reconnects the lines as though no auto trim
exists.
2. The auto trim does not lower the input voltage to the trim servo but
pulses the servo at standard voltage.
3. The rheostat on the trim box changes the pulse rate.
4. the cutting of the power wires to the trim servo is unknown when
connecting, the switch on the box allows reversal of the trim direction
depending on the hook up of the system.
5. The original 9 pin dub to the pitch servo is disconnected and a new short
cable is made to connect to the auto trim dsub. Additionally another short
dsub harness is made for the auto trim box to pitch servo connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Sep 22, 2010
The complexity is not for me; I can do all I need with a panel mounted
rocker switch accessible from either seat. My consideration is for my
wife who is not a pilot. She can be taught to land the aircraft in an
emergency but the Cheltons and the Digiflite II VSGV and auto trim
should make an incapacitated pilot incident approach to landing in any
weather less worrisome
----- Original Message -----
From: Linn Walters
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
All this talk of auto trim, manual trim, safety trim and slow trim
begs the question ...... has anyone found the trim system so bad that
they had to retrofit the trim system add-ons? Does the airplane get so
far out of trim that the AP kicks offline? Is all this cost,
complexity, and installation time necessary???
Just askin'.
Linn
On 9/22/2010 11:00 AM, DLM wrote:
Just talked to Zak and determined the following.
1. when the AP is OFF or is not powered, the auto trim module
reverts to manual trim and internally reconnects the lines as though no
auto trim exists.
2. The auto trim does not lower the input voltage to the trim servo
but pulses the servo at standard voltage.
3. The rheostat on the trim box changes the pulse rate.
4. the cutting of the power wires to the trim servo is unknown when
connecting, the switch on the box allows reversal of the trim direction
depending on the hook up of the system.
5. The original 9 pin dub to the pitch servo is disconnected and a
new short cable is made to connect to the auto trim dsub. Additionally
another short dsub harness is made for the auto trim box to pitch servo
connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Subject: Trutrak auto trim
I would go so far as to say a runaway trim in the 10 may not be survivable.
I have seen how difficult the plane was to hold straight & level with trim
at a substantially out of trim configuration but not nearly maxed out of
trim setting. It was all I could do to control the 10 at the relatively low
speeds of take off. If the same thing were to happen at cruise speed it
would be VERY ugly.
For the money spent a speed sensitive trim adjustment combined with a
runaway trim safety circuit represent the best insurance policy for this
type of issue IMHO. I own the Safety Trim but the VP sounds like a nice
option too.
I recall Tim=92s write up being substantially influential on the topic.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Linn Walters
*Sent:* Wednesday, September 22, 2010 8:11 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
All this talk of auto trim, manual trim, safety trim and slow trim begs the
question ...... has anyone found the trim system so bad that they had to
retrofit the trim system add-ons? Does the airplane get so far out of trim
that the AP kicks offline? Is all this cost, complexity, and installation
time necessary???
Just askin'.
Linn
On 9/22/2010 11:00 AM, DLM wrote:
Just talked to Zak and determined the following.
1. when the AP is OFF or is not powered, the auto trim module reverts to
manual trim and internally reconnects the lines as though no auto trim
exists.
2. The auto trim does not lower the input voltage to the trim servo but
pulses the servo at standard voltage.
3. The rheostat on the trim box changes the pulse rate.
4. the cutting of the power wires to the trim servo is unknown when
connecting, the switch on the box allows reversal of the trim direction
depending on the hook up of the system.
5. The original 9 pin dub to the pitch servo is disconnected and a new shor
t
cable is made to connect to the auto trim dsub. Additionally another short
dsub harness is made for the auto trim box to pitch servo connection.
* *
* *
* *
* *
* *
===========*
===========*
===========*
===========*
* *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
>>no relays are needed and either set of trim switches can control without
shorting<<
I'd be interested in seeing a schematic for two trim switches without a
relay. Are you using a selector switch for one stick or the other?
The installations I've seen without a relay or a selector switch would
always pop the breaker if both tried to trim at the same time.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Subject: Trutrak auto trim
I doubt that one is ever at one end of the trim cycle for it to take 19
seconds to get to the other end of the trim cycle. So cut that time in
half ~10 seconds then understand it takes 2-3 seconds to realize what is
happening 7 seconds left then know at that point you are pushing or
pulling on the stick ever harder and harder to keep level... tic... tic...
tic and one has eaten up another several seconds which gets you right near
the end of the trim travel before most pilots (my speculation) have the
wherewithal to think about, locate and then physically pull the correct
breaker. Game over???
I will agree that the pilot still has plenty of time to tell his
passengers how sorry he is for not installing a safety trim system...
GRIM...
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
I called Zak to confirm; the relays are electronic switches, not
mechanical
ones. I also discussed with Ray Allen and the standard time from end to
end
on the trim servo is 19 seconds. It seems to me that if the trim runs away
the first action is a pull of the trim breaker.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2010
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Trutrak auto trim
> Because of the sticking/inop relays, or the speed? Both?
Both. I'd have to go re-read what I wrote when I took notes
before, but in cruise at full speed trim, in the RV-10,
something like 1-2 seconds of nose-up trim will likely
pull > 4G's on the up pull. So pulling a breaker in
cruise isn't going to happen fast enough, if you have full
speed trim. With Safety Trim, slowed down, the 3 second
timeout is long enough that you can stick the switch for
a full 3 seconds and not have an airplane that bends the
wings. It will be pitched up quite a bit, but with standard
full-speed trim, I believe that if you did something stupid
like let some kids feet/books/body parts lay on that
stick hat switch, and they gave it full nose up trim
at full speed, you would likely bend the plane or maybe
remove the wings within probably 3-4 seconds.
If you catch it in time and fight it with a SUPER strong
push, you may have a chance....I don't know, but you'd
have to be very on your game.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Well now after reading these posts I have ordered and returned the AutoTrim
THREE times!
Just kidding
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
>
>> Because of the sticking/inop relays, or the speed? Both?
>
> Both. I'd have to go re-read what I wrote when I took notes
> before, but in cruise at full speed trim, in the RV-10,
> something like 1-2 seconds of nose-up trim will likely
> pull > 4G's on the up pull. So pulling a breaker in
> cruise isn't going to happen fast enough, if you have full
> speed trim. With Safety Trim, slowed down, the 3 second
> timeout is long enough that you can stick the switch for
> a full 3 seconds and not have an airplane that bends the
> wings. It will be pitched up quite a bit, but with standard
> full-speed trim, I believe that if you did something stupid
> like let some kids feet/books/body parts lay on that
> stick hat switch, and they gave it full nose up trim
> at full speed, you would likely bend the plane or maybe
> remove the wings within probably 3-4 seconds.
> If you catch it in time and fight it with a SUPER strong
> push, you may have a chance....I don't know, but you'd
> have to be very on your game.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Sep 22, 2010
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
I confess I haven't read all the posts regarding the auto pitch trim from
tt.My first experience with it in 2006 was very negative.Most autopilots
will disable the auto pitch and allow pilot override with a control wheel
or stick mounted switch-the trutrak system at least how it was wired by
aerotrnics does not.On top of that I had one of the early sorcerer autopi
lots without the torque enhancer's which was virtually unusable with the
autotrim.It would constantly be out of trim and after a bit of a wild rid
e it would kickoff.Since then I disabled the autotrim with a jumper per tt
and installed the torque enhancer,it has operated flawlessly since using
manual trim,it couples approaches and flys the airplane-I still need to
send it to trutrak to fix a intermittent funky display did have the origi
nal ray allan relay go out and had to fly the airplane home out of trim 20
0 miles at 90 kts-slowest flight in the 10,I cant help but wonder what eff
ect this would have had if the auto trim was still enabled .Having said al
l that I am going to again try the auto pitch trim on another project as
I am a slow learner. Jim 728DD
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 22, 2010 10:22 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak auto trim
> Because of the sticking/inop relays, or the speed? Both?
Both. I'd have to go re-read what I wrote when I took notes
before, but in cruise at full speed trim, in the RV-10,
something like 1-2 seconds of nose-up trim will likely
pull > 4G's on the up pull. So pulling a breaker in
cruise isn't going to happen fast enough, if you have full
speed trim. With Safety Trim, slowed down, the 3 second
timeout is long enough that you can stick the switch for
a full 3 seconds and not have an airplane that bends the
wings. It will be pitched up quite a bit, but with standard
full-speed trim, I believe that if you did something stupid
like let some kids feet/books/body parts lay on that
stick hat switch, and they gave it full nose up trim
at full speed, you would likely bend the plane or maybe
remove the wings within probably 3-4 seconds.
If you catch it in time and fight it with a SUPER strong
push, you may have a chance....I don't know, but you'd
have to be very on your game.
Tim
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2010
Hey Tim,
I was thinking about all this about the trim and thought about the Citation.
The Citation has had a history of runaway trims that has prompted previous AD's
and flight manual changes.
Here is what they came up with per Flight Safety Manual:
1. Autopilot/Trim Disengage Switch........................PRESS
2. Pitch Trim Circuit Breaker (LH Panel).................PULL
Pull the PITCH TRIM circuit breaker to permenantly remove power from the trim motor
before releasing the autopilot/trim disengage switch.
3. Manual Elevator Trim.........................................AS REQUIRED
NOTE
Do not attempt to use the autopilot if the electric trim is
inoperative. The autopilot is not able to trim-out servo
torque, and disengaging the autopilot with light servo torque
could result in a significant pitch upset.
The problem with this scenario is now I can't return to home base single pilot
if I land somewhere else with a inop Autopilot.
I also remember four down and three over by memory for the CB position.
Maybe we can have a TRIM Disconnect on one of the many switches on the infinity
grip??
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313444#313444
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2010
Subject: Andair Fuel Assembly
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Hi Everyone,
Are any of you using the Andair Fuel Filter and Pump? If so, do you have
photos of your installation?
I'll post some photos or a video of mine so you can see how I did it. But
I'd like to compare my installation to others and confirm that I haven't
done anything stupid.
I'm also curious to know which model number of pump and filter you're
using. I have their filter/pump combo for 3/8" lines (which are what we use
in the RV-10), but their site suggest this pump combo is for IO360's and
such. The folks from Andair said this was the right pump at Oshkosh, but
I'd like to make sure.
Andair sells a pump marketed for the IO540, but it has 1/2" lines.
So before I do something really stupid, I'd like to bounce this off a few
other Andair RV-10 drivers/builders to see what they're using and doing
inside the tunnel.
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
Lyle,
There are two ways to wire in the AP auto-trim system from TT. First way is as
you describe - when the AP is enabled the auto-trim system takes over and manual
trim is disabled. Second way has a switch to disable autotrim completely
at any time and revert to manual trim.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313479#313479
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
Here's how Trio Avionics suggests to wire in their autotrim.
The autopilot has trim all the time, except when you activate the manual trim,
the power going down the trim wires, will activate a relay which removes control
from the autopilot's autotrim and gives control to the manual one.
This works out pretty good as long as that relay doesn't fail. I have yet to figure
out what are the failure modes of the Omron relay.
I was thinking of hooking up a relay to a microcontroller and let it switch on
and off a gazillion times until it fails.
The cool feature i like about this is that when the autopilot is not engaged, the
knob on the autopilot can be used to run the trim, which provides for a nice
backup to the manual trim system.
See attached image for wiring (Option 2)
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313511#313511
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
Oops, forgot the picture. Here it is:
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313518#313518
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/trio_autotrim_157.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
I think I will install a "pitch trim enable" push button switch just above my rocker
switch on the panel. Switch will have deep bezel. Both next to throttle
control. Then no worries about motor speed, stuck relays, kids or something resting
on the stick. Also less weight/money/build time.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313527#313527
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 23, 2010
Subject: iPad Mount update
I decided to relocate my iPad after my a flight test last weekend. I
found the previous location a little too distant for my taste. I think
the most ideal position is at eye level where John Miller has installed
his. Hopefully the Gizmo guys will come up with a panel mount and give
those in process of planning their panel another option.
I swapped the 2" standard clamp leg with a 6" long leg from Ram Mount
(they are great people to deal with) and I think that I like this
arrangement much better. The second picture shows the iPad in it's
pilot-exit configuration. Will post a flight test report this weekend.
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
> Date: September 13, 2010 6:17:08 PM EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: iPad Mount
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> I finally received my iPad mount from Ram Mounts. It is a good
quality and strong mount.
>
> I used a sheet of aluminum and formed it around the tunnel to use as a
temporary bracket and to mount the iPad. Once flight testing t is
complete, I will most likely remove the extra aluminum bracket and
attach the mount with thru bolts to the tunnel cover.
>
> I have pointed the iPad's charging port up under the panel; so that I
can get a 12V charger and connect it behind the panel to charge
continuously during flights.
>
> Flight test, this weekend.
>
>
>
>
>
> IMG_0046.JPG
>
>
>
> IMG_0047.JPG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: iPad Mount update
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Tim,
I haven't done much on the coast in little airplanes, but I've been watching them
for 25 years from up higher. It seems to me that there are VFR corridors through
most of it. At LAX, it is right off the end of the runways along the shoreline,
and we often get traffic along there pointed out. I did fly my Socata
into Hawthorne near LAX and it was actually quite easy in and out. There are
several smaller airports around San Diego, but even SAN itself seems GA friendly
as long as you don't hit them during a rush. I've been to Catalina and
it wan't bad at all.
I think the only real problem area on the coast is around Vandenberg AFB and Point
Magu. San Luis Obisbo, Santa Maria were nice stops in my Metro days as were
Santa Barbara and Monterrey. They are all GA friendly.
One caution for any California airport is that they do ramp inspections and note
N numbers and send out tax notices if you haven't paid them any tax. It happened
to me and is a pain to prove that you are just a visitor.
Sedona is very nice. Great restaurant and a decent hotel a short walk from the
ramp.
Plan it during Copperstate and stop by the RV10 nest.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313560#313560
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: I heard your email
From: ch_khong(at)yahoo.com
Date: Sep 24, 2010
www.DriveSafe.ly read it to me.I will get back to you soon.
Sent via BlackBerry from Telstra
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Unfortunately, the restaurant at Sedona is closed, pending replacement of
the old building with something in the terminal. Would be fantastic if you
can schedule to make Copperstate. Montgomery Field in San Diego is fine.
If you want to land below sea level, there is Imperial Valley on the way
from the Coast to Arizona.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 1:19 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Sedona is very nice. Great restaurant and a decent hotel a short walk from
> the ramp.
>
> Plan it during Copperstate and stop by the RV10 nest.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313560#313560
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Good information for us low time pilots. Keep it coming!
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs
Fuselage 9/21/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313576#313576
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: iPad Mount update
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Another thing to consider during this time of years is indeed the fog most
likely will be less=2C but there is also the chance for the Santa Ana wind
conditions which are present in the mid to southern portion of the state. T
he winds can be very strong and will not make for nice flying. These winds
become more likely late in September=2C and get more and more likely throu
gh January.
On another note=2C might I recommend Camarillo airport or Oxnard airport an
d a whale watching trip form Ventura harbor.. Those Channel Islands are nic
er than Catalina=2C but sounds like you would like to land at the famous Ca
talina airport=2C which has plenty of wrecked airplanes at the end of the f
ield. Catalina Island has more touristy stuff to do=2C the other islands ar
e remote and prettier because they are away from Los Angeles.
Just stuff to look at.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Subject: Re: iPad Mount update
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Hey good buddy, got yor ears on? You is shootin' blanks.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 7:28 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Keep in mind, there is a landing fee at Catalina, I think I heard it was
$15-20, the airport is not near Avalon (main town) so you need a taxi to
get there and I hear that is quite expensive as well.
Oh and expect the trip down and up the hill to/from town to the airport
to take a fair amount of time.. if you have 1/2 a day minimum this will
work for you.
This is the same experience as Sedona, now that I think about it.
Pascal
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: California coast via RV10?
Another thing to consider during this time of years is indeed the fog
most likely will be less, but there is also the chance for the Santa Ana
wind conditions which are present in the mid to southern portion of the
state. The winds can be very strong and will not make for nice flying.
These winds become more likely late in September, and get more and more
likely through January.
On another note, might I recommend Camarillo airport or Oxnard airport
and a whale watching trip form Ventura harbor.. Those Channel Islands
are nicer than Catalina, but sounds like you would like to land at the
famous Catalina airport, which has plenty of wrecked airplanes at the
end of the field. Catalina Island has more touristy stuff to do, the
other islands are remote and prettier because they are away from Los
Angeles.
Just stuff to look at.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: iPad Mount update
He's got something funky with his email program. I am
trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
had size, but just wasn't displaying....
Tim
<From Deems>
Rob, Thanks for the update, I've been following a thread on VAF that
is similar. I've flown about 40 hours with my Ipad, and have a pretty
good feel for how I use it (VFR). Today, I spent 30 + minutes in the
cockpit trying to identify the 'optimum' mounting location. The
Ram-Mount hardware is VERY impressive.
It was hard to find a location that both provides excellent access, AND
didn't interfere with another cockpit function. (I really like the way
my panel is laid out and don't want to compromise it) I came to the
conclusion that for me, a hard mount isn't the best bet. I've got moving
map gps/efis on the panel with approaches, etc. I'm only flying the
plane VFR now, so the main use for me is:
Pre-flight planning (means that it's got to be easily removable). I'm
not keen about having the 'empty mounting gear
Electronic POH _ I've got options on Primary and backup EFIS for
checklists, but I've converting my POH to a pdf, that I have on the IPAD
Sectional scanning - My EFIS only zooms out to 200 miles, and it doesn't
provide the ability to 'scroll' around and see what the surrounding
landscape holds
Flight Guide Replacement Airport info - With the changes to pricing for
the hard copy, it's really convenient to have it all in the IPAD.
So most of my usage is intermittent while in flight. I like being able
to grab the IPAD and do whatever I need to do, and then put it out ot
the way. When I need it it's really convenient to have visible with a
hands free view. (my wife is getting tired of 'here, hold this'). I
have a center console, that is now pretty empty , with all of the
charts, POH, and Flight Guide removed. So I think the solution for me,
is to fabricate a kneeboard-holder, that serves as a "platform" where I
can set/rest the Ipad when I need the information/function handy, (e.g.
airport/rwy data landing & TO) and my hands free. I'll make it with an
angle that allows for best viewing /access, but I'll probably put some
'non-skid' material on the back of it, and the knee-pad so that it can
be easily rotated and stored in the center console when its just in the way.
Deems
On 9/24/2010 10:03 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Hey good buddy, got yor ears on? You is shootin' blanks.
>
> On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 7:28 AM, Deems Davis > wrote:
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: iPad Mount update
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Thanks Tim,
Deems, If you are going to use a "kneeboard", Ram Mount has the
solution of the iPad.
Here it is:
On Sep 24, 2010, at 11:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> He's got something funky with his email program. I am
> trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
> to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
> had size, but just wasn't displaying....
> Tim
>
> <=46rom Deems>
>
> Rob, Thanks for the update, I've been following a thread on VAF that
> is similar. I've flown about 40 hours with my Ipad, and have a pretty
> good feel for how I use it (VFR). Today, I spent 30 + minutes in the
> cockpit trying to identify the 'optimum' mounting location. The
> Ram-Mount hardware is VERY impressive.
>
> It was hard to find a location that both provides excellent access,
AND
> didn't interfere with another cockpit function. (I really like the way
> my panel is laid out and don't want to compromise it) I came to the
> conclusion that for me, a hard mount isn't the best bet. I've got
moving
> map gps/efis on the panel with approaches, etc. I'm only flying the
> plane VFR now, so the main use for me is:
>
> Pre-flight planning (means that it's got to be easily removable). I'm
> not keen about having the 'empty mounting gear
> Electronic POH _ I've got options on Primary and backup EFIS for
> checklists, but I've converting my POH to a pdf, that I have on the
IPAD
> Sectional scanning - My EFIS only zooms out to 200 miles, and it
doesn't
> provide the ability to 'scroll' around and see what the surrounding
> landscape holds
> Flight Guide Replacement Airport info - With the changes to pricing
for
> the hard copy, it's really convenient to have it all in the IPAD.
>
> So most of my usage is intermittent while in flight. I like being able
> to grab the IPAD and do whatever I need to do, and then put it out ot
> the way. When I need it it's really convenient to have visible with a
> hands free view. (my wife is getting tired of 'here, hold this'). I
> have a center console, that is now pretty empty , with all of the
> charts, POH, and Flight Guide removed. So I think the solution for
me,
> is to fabricate a kneeboard-holder, that serves as a "platform" where
I
> can set/rest the Ipad when I need the information/function handy,
(e.g.
> airport/rwy data landing & TO) and my hands free. I'll make it with an
> angle that allows for best viewing /access, but I'll probably put some
> 'non-skid' material on the back of it, and the knee-pad so that it can
> be easily rotated and stored in the center console when its just in
the way.
>
> Deems
>
>
>
> On 9/24/2010 10:03 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> Hey good buddy, got yor ears on? You is shootin' blanks.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 7:28 AM, Deems Davis > > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Blank Messages (was: iPad Mount update)
I noticed something similar that started just recently with the
Matronics lists. Not sure if Matt changed anything recently, but...
I use Thunderbird (on a Mac) and had to set my account to always use
plain text when sending emails to the matronics.com domain or they would
just show up as blank. I never had to do this until about a month ago.
Maybe Matt could chime in with any suggestions.
-Sean
On 9/24/10 10:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> He's got something funky with his email program. I am
> trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
> to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
> had size, but just wasn't displaying....
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Blank Messages (was: iPad Mount update)
I haven't changed anything on the input message processing in quite a while.
As has been pointed out, make sure to configure the email client to send "plain-text"
only. If the messages are showing up blank, the lack of a legitimate plain-text
MIME section is almost always the cause.
Matt Dralle
Matronics List Admin
At 08:45 AM 9/24/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>
> I noticed something similar that started just recently with the Matronics lists.
Not sure if Matt changed anything recently, but...
>
>I use Thunderbird (on a Mac) and had to set my account to always use plain text
when sending emails to the matronics.com domain or they would just show up as
blank. I never had to do this until about a month ago.
>Maybe Matt could chime in with any suggestions.
>
>-Sean
>
>On 9/24/10 10:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>He's got something funky with his email program. I am
>>trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
>>to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
>>had size, but just wasn't displaying....
>>Tim
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 95+ Hours TTSN - Enjoying Every Minute...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Aviation Resources On The Web
Date: Sep 24, 2010
I'm doing a presentation to our EAA Chapter on Aviation Resources on the
Internet and could use a little help. Is anyone willing to share what their
3 or 4 favorite sites are? Probably should do this off list.
Thanks,
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aviation Resources On The Web
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 24, 2010
airnav.com for fuel prices, FBO services
aviationweather.gov for weather, including icing forecasts that are more realistic
than what you get from FSS/DUAT.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313671#313671
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Aviation Resources On The Web
Date: Sep 24, 2010
The AOPA ASF - http://www.aopa.org/asf/
AOPA online including flight planning-http://www.aopa.org/
EAA homebuilders site- http://www.eaavideo.org/channel.aspx?ch=ch_hints
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 4:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aviation Resources On The Web
>
> I'm doing a presentation to our EAA Chapter on Aviation Resources on the
> Internet and could use a little help. Is anyone willing to share what
> their
> 3 or 4 favorite sites are? Probably should do this off list.
> Thanks,
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Melchert" <pilotmelch(at)omnav.com>
Subject: Aviation Resources On The Web
Date: Sep 24, 2010
Here's my top hits:
In addition to http://aviationweather.gov and http://airnav.com,
FlightCentral (http://www.flightcentral.net/) for airport, weather and basic
flight planning
FlightAware (http://flightaware.com/) to track IFR flights I've made and for
family and friends to track while I'm enroute
LiveATC (http://www.liveatc.net/feedmap/feedmap.html) to listen in on ATC
while at my desk
Airsports Wx
(http://www.usairnet.com/cgi-bin/launch/code.cgi?sta=KFCM&model=avn&state=MN
&Submit=Get+Forecast) Visual weather trends from NWS weather data for the
next couple + days
Oshkosh365 (http://www.oshkosh365.org/) need I say more?
FAA NOTAM Retrieval (https://pilotweb.nas.faa.gov/PilotWeb/)
FAA N-Number Registry and other databases (http://registry.faa.gov/)
100 Dollar Hamburger (http://www.100dollarhamburger.com/)
John Melchert
N316PT RV-10 (building, QB fuse)
Eden Prairie, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aviation Resources On The Web
I'm doing a presentation to our EAA Chapter on Aviation Resources on the
Internet and could use a little help. Is anyone willing to share what their
3 or 4 favorite sites are? Probably should do this off list.
Thanks,
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Albert,
THANKS for this idea, I'm in the process of fabricating something
identical, only out of fiberglass.
How much of an improvement do you feel you got? CHT? Oil Temp?
Did you see any reduction in TAS?
THANKS
Deems
(Hope to see you @ Copperstate!)
On 9/15/2010 3:20 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I fought high oil temps and installed a second oil cooler on the right side.
> Final part of the solution was cowl flaps as these pics show. Before I put
> the non-adjustable flaps in I had louvers in those locations but they didn't
> do enough. Still have to be careful of extended ground operation in 100+
> days though.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:31 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Dunne"
>
> I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade prop as
> others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it doesn't seem
> to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
> My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
> Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
> I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned
> about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
> creeping up there.
> A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
> the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the lower
> cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
>
> John 40315
> Phase 1 Fly off
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>
> I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
> easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those
> of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg
> or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the
> equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.15860
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.15870
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Blank Messages (was: iPad Mount update)
Sorry for all of the white space, and Thanks Tim for parsing the
message and re-posting. I use T'bird on a pc and also occasionaly find
emails from matronics lists with empty text. I changed my send options
from (Auto Detect) to plain text, we'll see if that helps.
Deems
On 9/24/2010 8:45 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I noticed something similar that started just recently with the
> Matronics lists. Not sure if Matt changed anything recently, but...
>
> I use Thunderbird (on a Mac) and had to set my account to always use
> plain text when sending emails to the matronics.com domain or they
> would just show up as blank. I never had to do this until about a
> month ago. Maybe Matt could chime in with any suggestions.
>
> -Sean
>
> On 9/24/10 10:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> He's got something funky with his email program. I am
>> trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
>> to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
>> had size, but just wasn't displaying....
>> Tim
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 25, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Blank Messages (was: iPad Mount update)
Tbird used to have an option of 'HTML and text' but it now seems like
we have to make a choice. Bummer.
Linn
On 9/25/2010 1:29 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Sorry for all of the white space, and Thanks Tim for parsing the
> message and re-posting. I use T'bird on a pc and also occasionaly find
> emails from matronics lists with empty text. I changed my send options
> from (Auto Detect) to plain text, we'll see if that helps.
>
> Deems
>
> On 9/24/2010 8:45 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> I noticed something similar that started just recently with the
>> Matronics lists. Not sure if Matt changed anything recently, but...
>>
>> I use Thunderbird (on a Mac) and had to set my account to always use
>> plain text when sending emails to the matronics.com domain or they
>> would just show up as blank. I never had to do this until about a
>> month ago. Maybe Matt could chime in with any suggestions.
>>
>> -Sean
>>
>> On 9/24/10 10:21 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> He's got something funky with his email program. I am
>>> trying to pull it apart now and see if there is an attachment
>>> to view. But here is the text I extracted. I noticed the message
>>> had size, but just wasn't displaying....
>>> Tim
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Going north to south:
The northern california coast is quite beautiful. Arcata has an ILS if the stratus
has moved in.
Shelter cove is quaint but not too much else there. vfr only
Mendocino (Little River Airport) is a popular tourist spot (many TV series and
movies have been filmed there) but last time I looked the ground transportation
was a problem, I'd check that out first. The airport is just far enough inland
that it often escapes the coastal stratus.
Santa Rosa is 20 nm inland, has an ILS, is a good alternate.
You're asked to fly at least 2000' over Pt Reyes National Seashore.
If you happen to be near SFO at lunch, I can recommend Half Moon Bay (KHAF). There
is a diner at the tie-down/fuel area, but instead taxi all the way to the
southern end of the field. There are some tie downs there. Take the path south
a couple hundred yards to Princeton by the Sea. There are numerous casual restaurants
there, with fresh sea food.
KHAF is often under the stratus but now has a good LPV gps approach. The east bay
airports like Livermore (KLVK) are almost always vfr this time of year; good
alternates.
The coastal area around SFO is easily navigated, just one small area north of KHAF
where you either (1) deal with atc, or (2) fly low and just a bit off shore.
Monterey has a restaurant on the field; also a tie down fee of $20 or so.
The Big Sur coast south of Monterey is again quite beautiful. As others have said,
an engine failure means ditching, although very close to shore.
I'd consider going direct Catalina from Oxnard or so. This is a bit of overwater
flying, but stays outside the LAX class B. There's nothing to see along the
LAX shoreline, IMHO
As others have said, Catalina airport is quite a ways from the town of
Avalon. It is an "aircraft carrier", with steep drop offs at either end. But it
should be no trouble for a -10.
Continuing south Palomar is a good airport, although lately it seems more jet oriented.
I like Montgomery Field (KMYF) as GA friendly in San Diego.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313718#313718
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
I've put pullable CB's for the trim and autopilot right next to each other, just
right of center in front of the pilot, easily reached by the right hand. I'll
put a red box around them. My plan is that if the pitch goes nuts, I'll pull
both breakers, then sort out the problem.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313720#313720
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
> You're asked to fly at least 2000' over Pt Reyes National Seashore.<
Last month during my BFR, I learned a couple things about a few areas
that more-or-less coincide with some ambiguous markings on the SF
sectional.
One of the good things that came out of this exercise was that I
learned about a publication that I think is pretty cool. I never
realized that there was a (nearly) complete legend for all the
markings on WAC, sectional, and terminal charts:
http://www.naco.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=naco/online/aero_guide
I say "nearly" because I still can't figure out what the single blue
dots without a corresponding blue line are supposed to mean. An
example is along the coast adjacent to KWVI.
One well marked and defined area is a sea otter preserve, and as Bob
mentioned, the sectional "requests" that you stay above 2000' AGL. I
kind of stumbled upon another federal regulation, not an FAR, that
strictly prohibits flights in that area, and couple other areas as
well, below 1000'. The regulation is
CFR 15 922.132 (a) (6)
(of course FARs are in CFR 14).
Here's a map of the "restricted overflight zones" per CFR 15 922.132 (a) (6):
http://montereybay.noaa.gov/research/techreports/marinezones/fig4.html
Now I wouldn't normally fly below 1000' AGL without a good reason,
probably not with my family on board, over populated areas, etc. I
guess what bothers me about this reg is that 1) it's in my own
backyard and I didn't know about it until last month; 2) it's not
marked or noted on the sectional; 3) it's not an FAR, though it is a
federal regulation; and 4) how many other areas like this are out
there and where are they defined?
I guess this falls under the concept that we're all pretty much
breaking some law, somewhere, all the time. And, hitting a pelican
probably has consequences beyond the obvious...
Now back to RVs.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WD1002 and F1001B alignment
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Bringing this old thread back to life in order to document my saga and solution.
First time around drilling the firewall brackets, I ended up with insufficient
edge distance on the upper flange of the upper (wd-1002) bracket - actually
no edge distance. I removed the upper firewall brackets in order to replace
them, but had a hard time figuring out what what went wrong. The base of wd-1002
sits on the firewall, partially on top of the base of f-1001b, so these two
parts are tied tightly together. The flange of the wd-1002 isn't close to parallel
to the f-1001b (see photo, orange tape added for contrast), and since they
are rivited together at their bases, there isn't much scope for applying pressure
to bring them in line without exerting substantial preloading to the firewall
rivets.
Scott Risan was good enough to send me new brackets, so today I clecoed up the
right side one, and it looked nice. Edge parallel to the F-1001B. I smiled and
clecoed up the left side, only to find that it was quite non-parallel, and there
would be no way to get good edge distance. Quit smiling. Eventually discovered,
as I was playing with them on the table top, that the base of the W-1002L
was ever so slightly rockered across the horizontal axis. Because all the rivet
holes across the top are on one side of the rocker, it pitches the flange
arm inboard. I threw the bracket into a vice and bent the base just a bit, then
did a little filing of that thick powdercoat, till the base (forward side of
the weldment) sat flat on the table. Re-clecoed it, and it looks good enough.
The high spot on the forward face of the base that caused the rocker is associated
with the welding on the aft side.
So, this problem is solved. I should also note though that even though the W-1002
bracket arms are parallel with the F-1001B, they sit 1/16 inboard of the outer
edge of the F-1001B. The prepunched rivet holes in the F-1001B that serve
as the drilling template are right at 2 edge diameters, so edge space is really
at a premium here. I think the bracket could be welded up so the arms sit a
bit further outboard - the U channel can handle another 1/8 inch or so.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313736#313736
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/problem_464.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Bob,
That was originally the way I was going to do it, but as fast as things could happen
I thought I might be safer going this route. As long as we do something
that is the main thing. Those are some huge trim tabs.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs
Fuselage 9/21/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313745#313745
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WD1002 and F1001B alignment
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Thanks for the info guys. I will be doing this in a few days.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs
Fuselage 9/21/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313746#313746
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Dave,
If you hold the chart at arms length, to get the big picture, and also look out
to sea, I think you'll see the 'dots' outline the Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary.
The solid line doubles over the coast line, so you can't see it.
Now, why they put marine sanctuaries on aeronautical charts, I haven't a clue.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313750#313750
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 25, 2010
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
Right, but in some places, like Point Lobos, the blue line is obvious.
Just north of there the marking changes to just blue dots, no line.
You may be right, maybe the blue line is just overlaid on the coast
but it looks different in some places.
Do you think that since Point Lobos is a "different" reserve within
the larger area that they gave it a separate boundary?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:20 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> If you hold the chart at arms length, to get the big picture, and also look out
to sea, I think you'll see the 'dots' outline the Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary.
The solid line doubles over the coast line, so you can't see it.
> Now, why they put marine sanctuaries on aeronautical charts, I haven't a clue.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313750#313750
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <w.edgerton(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
Date: Sep 26, 2010
I've been reading the concern over runaway trim and thought I would
share my experience with this. Back in, I think, 2007 when Ray Allen
came out with relay II to replace relay I because of problems, we went
in and changes out the relay.
I was going to go up and test the trim with the new relay and someone at
the hangar had never been up in a 10 and wanted to hop in the right
seat. We took off and I was explaining how you used the trim for climb
and then again when you level off. At about 300' I hit the trim up on my
hat switch and I the trim servo went to full stop up in what seemed like
two nanoseconds. It was so fast that even if I could have reached the CB
it would have been way over with by then. I had to put a really large
amount of pressure on the stick to hold it forward, in fact I ask my
passenger to put his hand on the passenger stick to help me hold forward
pressure just in case my harm gets tired.
I was able to hold the stick forward but it took quite a bit of pressure
but I was then wondering how the hell I was going to flair it in the
landing that way. I hadn't really left the pattern so I just pulled down
wind and told the passenger that it will be ok, under my breath saying I
hope. Anyway as I proceeded downwind and as I pulled back on the power
the pressure on the stick started to degrease. As I pulled the power
back more the pressure continued to decrease. I obviously had to be very
gentle and careful on landing to just let back a certain amount on the
stick in landing but the landing went fine.
I taxied back to the hangar and sat there wondering what the hell was
that. I tested the trim and it worked fine. I decided I was going to go
back up, crazy guy, and see if it would do that again and my passenger
decided he would also try it again so if I needed help holding the
stick. I went up and waited a little longer before trying the trim but
when I did boom here we go again, being from TX I had to yell yea hah
ride um big boy :>} Anyway same drill on landing and when we landed we
took out the RA relay II and put back in the relay I and went back up
problem solved. I called Ray Allen a little less than happy and the
first words out of their mouths was it wasn't our relay you wired it
wrong. We wired it exactly the same way as we took out and put back in
relay I and II. They sent me another relay and that one worked fine. For
some reason the first one was ok as long as there was no pressure being
exerted but with pressure on it it would go nuts.
Anyway as an end to this story, as much as I didn't much care for the
experience it did show me that if I did by accident have a run a way
trim I could still control the plane. However whenever I fly I notice
that I subconsciously always ride with my hand on the stick when the
auto pilot is engaged.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
I've put pullable CB's for the trim and autopilot right next to
each other, just
right of center in front of the pilot, easily reached by the right
hand. I'll
put a red box around them. My plan is that if the pitch goes nuts,
I'll pull
both breakers, then sort out the problem.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 26, 2010
Subject: Re: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sounds great Tim. Is there some web site where we can see when our own local
areas will have ADS-B ground stations? I've not had much success searching
for that information. Has NavWorx given any indication if they will seek TSO
certification of their ADS600 transceiver? I already see needing an extra
external GPS antenna for whatever ADS-B unit gets installed.
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:27 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I had an interesting day flying today!
> I took a flight 92nm to drop off the kids, and while I was doing it,
> I was beta testing a cool new feature that NavWorx added just
> in the last couple days. More on that when I can.
>
> But anyway, my wife flew on the return leg, so I fired up the laptop and
> did some data logging of the stations I was receiving, up here in
> central/western Wisconsin, now that ADS-B covers us.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Sep 26, 2010
Wayne....great story! You did miss one point in your conclusion though....
.yours happened at low airspeed in climbing. If that would have happened in
cruise, I bet the outcome may not have ended the same way....especially wit
h only single full speed trim. At absolute bare minimum a speed reduction s
hould be installed for slow trim during cruise. Also, I really think that L
ESS than full speed would be annoying and perhaps in some cases compromise s
afety for some pilots. So for me, dual speed is a big deal.
Personally though, I think at 170+ kts that a full-speed nose up trim runawa
y to the stops would stand a good chance of bending something.
And if someone were screwing around doing low passes at high speed for show a
nd they got full speed nose down at 175kts and 100' they'd be toast by the t
ome they'd recognize the problem.
At lower climbout speeds though, it's totally different, and it's nice to he
ar that you can fight the trim by arm strength.
Tim
On Sep 26, 2010, at 7:45 AM, "Wayne Edgerton" wrote
:
> I've been reading the concern over runaway trim and thought I would share m
y experience with this. Back in, I think, 2007 when Ray Allen came out with r
elay II to replace relay I because of problems, we went in and changes out t
he relay.
>
> I was going to go up and test the trim with the new relay and someone at t
he hangar had never been up in a 10 and wanted to hop in the right seat. We t
ook off and I was explaining how you used the trim for climb and then again w
hen you level off. At about 300' I hit the trim up on my hat switch and I th
e trim servo went to full stop up in what seemed like two nanoseconds. It wa
s so fast that even if I could have reached the CB it would have been way ov
er with by then. I had to put a really large amount of pressure on the stic
k to hold it forward, in fact I ask my passenger to put his hand on the pass
enger stick to help me hold forward pressure just in case my harm gets tired
.
>
> I was able to hold the stick forward but it took quite a bit of pressure b
ut I was then wondering how the hell I was going to flair it in the landing t
hat way. I hadn't really left the pattern so I just pulled down wind and tol
d the passenger that it will be ok, under my breath saying I hope. Anyway as
I proceeded downwind and as I pulled back on the power the pressure on the s
tick started to degrease. As I pulled the power back more the pressure conti
nued to decrease. I obviously had to be very gentle and careful on landing t
o just let back a certain amount on the stick in landing but the landing wen
t fine.
>
> I taxied back to the hangar and sat there wondering what the hell was that
. I tested the trim and it worked fine. I decided I was going to go back up,
crazy guy, and see if it would do that again and my passenger decided he wo
uld also try it again so if I needed help holding the stick. I went up and w
aited a little longer before trying the trim but when I did boom here we go a
gain, being from TX I had to yell yea hah ride um big boy :>} Anyway same dr
ill on landing and when we landed we took out the RA relay II and put back i
n the relay I and went back up problem solved. I called Ray Allen a little l
ess than happy and the first words out of their mouths was it wasn't our rel
ay you wired it wrong. We wired it exactly the same way as we took out and p
ut back in relay I and II. They sent me another relay and that one worked fi
ne. For some reason the first one was ok as long as there was no pressure be
ing exerted but with pressure on it it would go nuts.
>
> Anyway as an end to this story, as much as I didn't much care for the expe
rience it did show me that if I did by accident have a run a way trim I coul
d still control the plane. However whenever I fly I notice that I subconscio
usly always ride with my hand on the stick when the auto pilot is engaged.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
>
> N602WT
>
>
>
>
> Subject: Re: performance (pitch trim)
> From: "Bob Turner"
>
>
> I've put pullable CB's for the trim and autopilot right next to each
other, just
> right of center in front of the pilot, easily reached by the right h
and. I'll
> put a red box around them. My plan is that if the pitch goes nuts, I
'll pull
> both breakers, then sort out the problem.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: performance (pitch trim)
Date: Sep 26, 2010
Following this thread I note what seems to be a lack of confidence in the
Ray Allen relays.
As we know, the Infinity Stick top hat switch is not suitable to be used for
trim without relays. I built my own relay stack for my RV-8A as I viewed
the Ray Allen relays too expensive for such a simple job. I have 4
standard but good 12 volt relays from Allied Electronics, one each for trim
up, down, left and right. Simple, cost effective and exceptionally
reliable. I also used the same DPDT relay to provide the reversing function
for the stick flap switch. These relays typically cost $5 to $7 each.
Wiring diagram available off list if interested.
Carl
RV-8A (570 hrs)
RV-10 (engine hung yesterday!)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: performance (pitch trim)
Wayne....great story! You did miss one point in your conclusion
though.....yours happened at low airspeed in climbing. If that would have
happened in cruise, I bet the outcome may not have ended the same
way....especially with only single full speed trim. At absolute bare
minimum a speed reduction should be installed for slow trim during cruise.
Also, I really think that LESS than full speed would be annoying and perhaps
in some cases compromise safety for some pilots. So for me, dual speed is a
big deal.
Personally though, I think at 170+ kts that a full-speed nose up trim
runaway to the stops would stand a good chance of bending something.
And if someone were screwing around doing low passes at high speed for show
and they got full speed nose down at 175kts and 100' they'd be toast by the
tome they'd recognize the problem.
At lower climbout speeds though, it's totally different, and it's nice to
hear that you can fight the trim by arm strength.
Tim
On Sep 26, 2010, at 7:45 AM, "Wayne Edgerton"
wrote:
I've been reading the concern over runaway trim and thought I would share my
experience with this. Back in, I think, 2007 when Ray Allen came out with
relay II to replace relay I because of problems, we went in and changes out
the relay.
I was going to go up and test the trim with the new relay and someone at the
hangar had never been up in a 10 and wanted to hop in the right seat. We
took off and I was explaining how you used the trim for climb and then again
when you level off. At about 300' I hit the trim up on my hat switch and I
the trim servo went to full stop up in what seemed like two nanoseconds. It
was so fast that even if I could have reached the CB it would have been way
over with by then. I had to put a really large amount of pressure on the
stick to hold it forward, in fact I ask my passenger to put his hand on the
passenger stick to help me hold forward pressure just in case my harm gets
tired.
I was able to hold the stick forward but it took quite a bit of pressure but
I was then wondering how the hell I was going to flair it in the landing
that way. I hadn't really left the pattern so I just pulled down wind and
told the passenger that it will be ok, under my breath saying I hope. Anyway
as I proceeded downwind and as I pulled back on the power the pressure on
the stick started to degrease. As I pulled the power back more the pressure
continued to decrease. I obviously had to be very gentle and careful on
landing to just let back a certain amount on the stick in landing but the
landing went fine.
I taxied back to the hangar and sat there wondering what the hell was that.
I tested the trim and it worked fine. I decided I was going to go back up,
crazy guy, and see if it would do that again and my passenger decided he
would also try it again so if I needed help holding the stick. I went up
and waited a little longer before trying the trim but when I did boom here
we go again, being from TX I had to yell yea hah ride um big boy :>} Anyway
same drill on landing and when we landed we took out the RA relay II and put
back in the relay I and went back up problem solved. I called Ray Allen a
little less than happy and the first words out of their mouths was it wasn't
our relay you wired it wrong. We wired it exactly the same way as we took
out and put back in relay I and II. They sent me another relay and that one
worked fine. For some reason the first one was ok as long as there was no
pressure being exerted but with pressure on it it would go nuts.
Anyway as an end to this story, as much as I didn't much care for the
experience it did show me that if I did by accident have a run a way trim I
could still control the plane. However whenever I fly I notice that I
subconsciously always ride with my hand on the stick when the auto pilot is
engaged.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
Time:
Subject:
Re: performance (pitch trim)
From:
"Bob Turner"
I've put pullable CB's for the trim and autopilot right next to each
other, just
right of center in front of the pilot, easily reached by the right
hand. I'll
put a red box around them. My plan is that if the pitch goes nuts,
I'll pull
both breakers, then sort out the problem.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
==================================
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List
==================================
ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
==================================
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 26, 2010
Subject: Re: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Thanks for all that detail Tim. Exactly what I was looking for. I agree that
the 6000B makes more sense to ensure you are triggering traffic
transmission.
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 6:43 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> Kelly,
>
> Here is a website for ITT, the company contracted to do the
> rollout.
> http://www.itt.com/adsb/budget.html
> I attached a .jpg with how it basically should look now or
> within a few days. I got lucky searching for it because I
> had just gotten a .pdf of that graphic titled ITT Segment 1
> Roll-Out, and by googling "segment" instead of phase it was
> near the top of the list.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Sep 26, 2010
Subject: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
Who's ADS-b hardware do you have? I was going to add the NavWorx system to
my 8A but I was told they were not shipping.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
From: Frank Sykes <franksykes(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10?
Tim,
-
-- Since one of your vacation goals was for your family to see whales,
I am surprised that no one has mention Anacortes, WA. My wife & I flew up t
here last year and took the whale sight seeing cruise. ( 4 to 5 hours ) dep
ending on the location of the whale pods ) The cruse ship we took is listed
on there web site-- -http://www.island-adventures.com/
-
-We had a great time and got to see the J Pod which consists of 20 to 30
killer whales. At this time of year the grey hump back whales have started
there annual migration south, so you would get to see them as well. Federal
rules state that tour operators can get no closed than 100 yards to the wh
ales, so bring a telephoto lens if you want a good pictures. I hope you hav
e a great vacation. If you have any questions about our vackation to the Se
atle area, I would be happy to share them with you.
-
-A faithful and grateful reader of your RV10 website.
-
-
Frank Sykes
601-527-4795
franksykes(at)bellsouth.net
Madison, MS.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John J <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Building again.... question
Date: Sep 27, 2010
I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many completed?
John J
- wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Building again.... question
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Mssr Cox probably has the best count. Last I recall it was something over
1000 sold and somewhere around 250+ flying.
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:35 PM, John J wrote:
>
> I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
> question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many completed?
>
> John J
> - wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Building again.... question
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Your site was great for me on my first kit . Glad your back at it, many more
will have that much more for reference now.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John J" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 12:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Building again.... question
>
> I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
> question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many completed?
>
> John J
> - wings
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Building again.... question
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Vans website shows:
RV-10 326 as of September 27th.
agree that John Cox will have the actual number however.
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Building again.... question
Mssr Cox probably has the best count. Last I recall it was something
over 1000 sold and somewhere around 250+ flying.
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:35 PM, John J wrote:
I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many
completed?
John J
- wings
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Building again.... question
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
John,
I always enjoyed your site, but now I'm ahead of you and can't use it
anymore. :) Hopefully I can return the favor for you.
Just wanted to say thanks for the info you shared publicly.
Phil
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Mssr Cox probably has the best count. Last I recall it was something over
> 1000 sold and somewhere around 250+ flying.
>
> On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:35 PM, John J wrote:
>
>>
>> I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
>> question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many completed?
>>
>> John J
>> - wings
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick(at)nleonard.com>
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Tim,
Did I read too much into your posting, that if you were to do your panel over again,
you would put in a GTX 327 instead of the GTX 330 Mode S transponder, given
what you get with the ADS-B?
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313930#313930
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Nope, the 330 still offers more, like ARINC, that I am in need of. Plus it still
does mode s to my gns480.
Tim
On Sep 27, 2010, at 6:54 PM, "Nick Leonard" wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Did I read too much into your posting, that if you were to do your panel over
again, you would put in a GTX 327 instead of the GTX 330 Mode S transponder,
given what you get with the ADS-B?
>
> Nick
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313930#313930
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Wisconsin ADS-B Rollout
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Hmm, what does the 330 do by ARINC that your ADS-B receiver would not do?
Both would supply TIS. What else does Mode S do for you besides tell the FAA
who you are at all times?
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:11 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Nope, the 330 still offers more, like ARINC, that I am in need of. Plus it
> still does mode s to my gns480.
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Building again.... question
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ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmlidXRpb24NCl8tPT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door handles
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Sep 27, 2010
I agree that flush handles from iflyrv10.com need to have additional support to
be more securely attached to the structure of the door. here is a picture of
what did to achieve that. Also, I agree that some lubrication of the pins is in
order, I used Bolube and after the doors have sat closed for a while and now
almost 70 hours of flight time the doors open and close easily and the flush
handles have stayed in place.
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (60 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313957#313957
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image00102_932.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John J <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Building again.... question
Date: Sep 28, 2010
Thanks, guys, I'll go with these numbers. Thanks also for the web site
compliments. Look for a redesign in the next month or so.
John J
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Building again.... question
Tail kits were up to 41108 about a month ago.
Bob
From: Pascal [mailto:rv10builder(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 01:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Building again.... question
Vans website shows:
RV-10 326 as of September 27th.
agree that John Cox will have the actual number however.
From: Kelly McMullen <mailto:apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Building again.... question
Mssr Cox probably has the best count. Last I recall it was something
over 1000 sold and somewhere around 250+ flying.
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:35 PM, John J wrote:
I've started building again, and I want to update my website. So, a
question. Anyone know how many kits we're up to and how many completed?
John J
- wings
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
~,
_____
g=D3=93
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: overhead console
From: "rwwende" <rwendell@hydro-splash.com>
Date: Sep 28, 2010
Any one know if Accuracy Avionics is still in business and offering their overhead
console? Thanks Ross
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314010#314010
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: overhead console
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Sep 28, 2010
You will want to get the AeroSport Overhead console. It is made of carbon fiber
and weighs a lot less than the old fiberglass overheads and is exceptionally
nice.
www.aerosportproducts.com
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314011#314011
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Sep 28, 2010
Subject: overhead console
They are not - Tony (the owner) passed away. I'd recommend looking at these http://www.aerosportproducts.com/index.htm. They are lighter and much higher quality than those that Accuracy was providing.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rwwende
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 1:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
Any one know if Accuracy Avionics is still in business and offering their overhead
console? Thanks Ross
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314010#314010
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I
was asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several
others? During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high
is 105) I need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily
top 410F and with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with
the plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake
much lower and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2,
and would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have
done/attempted. I just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on
the bottom of the cowl similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being
that it would increase the lower cowl exit area and improve air flow
from upper to lower cowl, but a test flight yesterday didn't indicate
much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped
around the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that
the Van's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Deems
If you cut back the baffling make sure to do it on the top of the cylinders
and not the bottom side. You need to increase the differential pressure
between the top of the engine and the bottom. I have see several people
trim back the front plate on the #2 cylinder but since you have the fancy
cowl I am not too sure how to help you on that one. On our Saratoga we have
both oil coolers on the aft baffling right next to the #5 and # 6 cylinders
and the engine stays nice and cool here in our 105 degree heat in northern
California. So I do not think it is the oil cooler air outlet causing the
issues.
I would be looking at getting the max air in the top of the engine and then
making sure there is not blockage or reverse pressure on the bottom of the
engine.
If you have access to a couple of gauges it would be worth the trouble to do
some pressure checks to determine the differential pressure in the cowl that
will answer a lot of questions and take some guess work out of it.
John Cumins 40864
Emp done reorganizing garage for Wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I was
asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several others?
During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high is 105) I
need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily top 410F and
with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with the
plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake much lower
and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2, and
would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have done/attempted. I
just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on the bottom of the cowl
similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being that it would increase the
lower cowl exit area and improve air flow from upper to lower cowl, but a
test flight yesterday didn't indicate much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped around
the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that the Van's
baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
I have completely removed the air dams on cyls 1 and 2. CHTs rarely get
above 360 and it is usually 6 and 2. I never see above 400; only seen
during break-in.
----- Original Message -----
From: Deems Davis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH
I was asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several
others? During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high
is 105) I need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily
top 410F and with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with
the plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake
much lower and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2,
and would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have
done/attempted. I just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on
the bottom of the cowl similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being
that it would increase the lower cowl exit area and improve air flow
from upper to lower cowl, but a test flight yesterday didn't indicate
much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped
around the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that
the Van's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Deems,
410F on climb out is not IMO considered high, even 420 isn't out of the
norm on a 'steep/ long climb, but getting warm.
What are the other 4 cylinders' CHT during normal climb out/, steep/
long climbs?
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I
was asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several
others? During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high
is 105) I need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily
top 410F and with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with
the plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake
much lower and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2,
and would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have
done/attempted. I just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on
the bottom of the cowl similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being
that it would increase the lower cowl exit area and improve air flow
from upper to lower cowl, but a test flight yesterday didn't indicate
much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped
around the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that
the Van's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Alan, I was told that the metallurgy starts changing at about 420 degrees
and getting the CHT up that high is bad. You obviously aren't concerned.
Why are others concerned and not you?
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Deems,
410F on climb out is not IMO considered high, even 420 isn't out of the norm
on a 'steep/ long climb, but getting warm.
What are the other 4 cylinders' CHT during normal climb out/, steep/ long
climbs?
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I was
asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several others?
During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high is 105) I
need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily top 410F and
with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with the
plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake much lower
and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2, and
would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have done/attempted. I
just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on the bottom of the cowl
similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being that it would increase the
lower cowl exit area and improve air flow from upper to lower cowl, but a
test flight yesterday didn't indicate much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped around
the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that the Van's
baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
From: "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Date: Sep 29, 2010
I just thought I would throw this out about oil temps. I have noticed over the
past that some people that have had oil temp problems only had 4 cooling slots
per side on either side of the nose gear cut out. There are suppose to be five
slots. If you go back through this discussion you can see that Albert only had
4 slots cut. I have seen this before. This is a easy
thing to do and miss cutting out the front slots. Ask me how I know. I caught mine
2 days before the first flight. This could possibly be some
of the cooling problems for people with the standard Van's cowl.
FWIW
Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314140#314140
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
#2 for me.
-Scott Schmidt
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 29, 2010, at 1:06 PM, "BPA" wrote:
> Deems,
>
>
>
> 410F on climb out is not IMO considered high, even 420 isn=99t out o
f the norm on a =98steep/ long climb, but getting warm.
>
>
>
> What are the other 4 cylinders=99 CHT during normal climb out/, stee
p/ long climbs?
>
>
>
>
>
> Allen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:12 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
>
>
>
> What's your hottest cylinder ?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I w
as asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several others? Du
ring the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high is 105) I need t
o pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily top 410F and with a
steep/long climb will reach 420.
>
> My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the cylind
ers which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with the plenu
m, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake much lower and e
clipsing the cylinder.
>
> I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2, and w
ould appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have done/attempted. I just
finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on the bottom of the cowl simil
ar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being that it would increase the lower
cowl exit area and improve air flow from upper to lower cowl, but a test fl
ight yesterday didn't indicate much if any improvement.
>
> I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped arou
nd the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that the Van
's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Deems
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Geoff
So would 6 slot be better for people that live in warm climates, and did you
install the grates a lot of people recommend or did you just open 6 slots in
the bottom of the cowl on each side.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
I just thought I would throw this out about oil temps. I have noticed over
the past that some people that have had oil temp problems only had 4 cooling
slots per side on either side of the nose gear cut out. There are suppose to
be five slots. If you go back through this discussion you can see that
Albert only had 4 slots cut. I have seen this before. This is a easy
thing to do and miss cutting out the front slots. Ask me how I know. I
caught mine 2 days before the first flight. This could possibly be some
of the cooling problems for people with the standard Van's cowl.
FWIW
Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314140#314140
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
Date: Sep 29, 2010
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Gary, I'm not saying its good for them. I AM concerned at 420 if the
CHT's are run there for long periods of time, but not necessarily if
only occasionally. Ideally, the best temps to run the cylinders are
between 350-380. This will give you best cylinder life. I have seen
cylinders that have been run in the low 430's on aerobatic engines that
have shown no noticeable effects. But then, I haven't done any fatigue
analysis on them either.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Alan, I was told that the metallurgy starts changing at about 420
degrees and getting the CHT up that high is bad. You obviously aren't
concerned. Why are others concerned and not you?
Gary Specketer
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Deems,
410F on climb out is not IMO considered high, even 420 isn't out of the
norm on a 'steep/ long climb, but getting warm.
What are the other 4 cylinders' CHT during normal climb out/, steep/
long climbs?
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I
was asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several
others? During the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high
is 105) I need to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily
top 410F and with a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the
cylinders which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with
the plenum, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake
much lower and eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2,
and would appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have
done/attempted. I just finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on
the bottom of the cowl similar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being
that it would increase the lower cowl exit area and improve air flow
from upper to lower cowl, but a test flight yesterday didn't indicate
much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped
around the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that
the Van's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 29, 2010
John I just have the standard 5 slots per the plans. Not sure what 6 slots
would do.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 4:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
Geoff
So would 6 slot be better for people that live in warm climates, and did you
install the grates a lot of people recommend or did you just open 6 slots in
the bottom of the cowl on each side.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
I just thought I would throw this out about oil temps. I have noticed over
the past that some people that have had oil temp problems only had 4 cooling
slots per side on either side of the nose gear cut out. There are suppose to
be five slots. If you go back through this discussion you can see that
Albert only had 4 slots cut. I have seen this before. This is a easy thing
to do and miss cutting out the front slots. Ask me how I know. I caught mine
2 days before the first flight. This could possibly be some of the cooling
problems for people with the standard Van's cowl.
FWIW
Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314140#314140
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Geoff
Thanks
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
John I just have the standard 5 slots per the plans. Not sure what 6 slots
would do.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 4:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
Geoff
So would 6 slot be better for people that live in warm climates, and did you
install the grates a lot of people recommend or did you just open 6 slots in
the bottom of the cowl on each side.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosport1
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
I just thought I would throw this out about oil temps. I have noticed over
the past that some people that have had oil temp problems only had 4 cooling
slots per side on either side of the nose gear cut out. There are suppose to
be five slots. If you go back through this discussion you can see that
Albert only had 4 slots cut. I have seen this before. This is a easy thing
to do and miss cutting out the front slots. Ask me how I know. I caught mine
2 days before the first flight. This could possibly be some of the cooling
problems for people with the standard Van's cowl.
FWIW
Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314140#314140
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 29, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
First we must all be talking apples and apples.- Deems not lonly doesn't
have-a stock engine, but he lives in AZ.- So all of us with cold air in
duction, and/or higher compression, and/or are living in a hot climate, nee
d to do things different than Van's stock setup.
There's already a baffle out that inserts into the oil cooler box.- I bel
ieve most of us with heating problems, including Deems, has already install
ed this.- I did a number of things and I seem to have the heat issue mana
gaeable.- I have 8ea. 3" louvers on each side of the bottom cowl (Van's h
as 5ea. 4"), then I have 4 additional louvers on each bottom outside edge o
f the cowl.- 4 of these are directly below the oil cooler.- All of thes
e louvers have a reverse scoop to allow the air to escape without having to
compete with the relative wind.- The last thing I did was something I ju
st thought up.- I used the 2nd 2" scat coming off the back of cyl #5 (bot
h of my heater scats come off the back of #5), routed it over to a fabricat
ed fiberglass "Y" and input it, along with the 4" from #6, into the oil coo
ler.- #6 was my hottest cyl, and the difference between #5 and #6 was aro
und 20 degrees.- After installing the mod, the temperature difference is
usually between 5 and 10 degrees and
on a hot Texas day, after going to lunch, on the way back at 3,000' I ran 3
120 degree different course headings at 25sq.- My TAS calculated out to
199mph, and my oil temp never exceeded 197 degrees.
I attached a few pics of what I've done..... no engineer here, just trying
stuff that I thought might work.
Don McDonald
-
Anyone going to LOE?
-
Funny,,, last year I didn't know what an LOE was!
--- On Wed, 9/29/10, aerosport1 wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lower cowling slot
Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2010, 1:03 PM
m>
I just thought I would throw this out about oil temps. I have noticed over
the past that some people that have had oil temp problems only had 4 coolin
g slots per side on either side of the nose gear cut out. There are suppose
to be five slots. If you go back through this discussion you can see that
Albert only had 4 slots cut. I have seen this before. This is a easy
thing to do and miss cutting out the front slots. Ask me how I know. I caug
ht mine 2 days before the first flight. This could possibly be some
of the cooling problems for people with the standard Van's cowl.
FWIW
Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314140#314140
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)ausawd.com>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
#2 - even after trimming the dam to 1/2 size.
cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, 30 September 2010 4:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I wa
s asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several others? Du
ring the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high is 105) I need
to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily top 410F and wit
h a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the cylinde
rs which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with the plenu
m, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake much lower and
eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2, and w
ould appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have done/attempted. I jus
t finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on the bottom of the cowl sim
ilar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being that it would increase the lo
wer cowl exit area and improve air flow from upper to lower cowl, but a tes
t flight yesterday didn't indicate much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped aroun
d the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that the Van
's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hottest Cyl CHT
From: John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Metallurgical alteration of the longterm (life) strength of aluminum, cokin
g of lubricating oil on the exhaust valve guides/stems and development of c
racks in the proximity of exhaust valves/seats should be understood before
getting too deep into temperature ranges in the 400s. Note: Break In perio
ds are though not exempt are less lifetime critical.
Twenty plus years ago, very few operators had individual CHT sensors to war
n of those impending events. These new units are great. I concur that rega
rdless of extra horsepower, modified coolers, higher altitudes, dysfunction
al high pressure plenums, warmer climate and other factors, "Temperatures o
utside of the norm - Do matter". Some friends can just afford the cost ass
ociated with such elective activities more easily than others and handles t
hose temperature extremes better.
I like Allen's 350-380 and clearly understand the importance of consistent/
controlled operating temperatures. I get increased butt dyno sensitivity a
t over 400. I increase my monitoring vigilance in approaching 420 and I su
re as hell understand the Danger Zone of operating above that number for pe
riods of time during extended climb. I have remarked to fellow pilots when
I ride along that cowl flaps need opening, angle of attack needs monitorin
g, alternate landing sites need to be considered and then the music from To
p Gun begins in my head. A close friend with a Continental TSIO-550 got to
visit the price for such wild dancing and it was an eye opener. One of ou
r RV-10 brethren did not head such annunciation and also got to replace som
e aluminum parts. YMMV.
Choose Wisely your temperatures.
John Cox
From: BPA
Sent: Wed 9/29/2010 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Gary, I'm not saying its good for them. I AM concerned at 420 if the CHT's
are run there for long periods of time, but not necessarily if only occasio
nally. Ideally, the best temps to run the cylinders are between 350-380. Th
is will give you best cylinder life. I have seen cylinders that have been r
un in the low 430's on aerobatic engines that have shown no noticeable effe
cts. But then, I haven't done any fatigue analysis on them either.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Alan, I was told that the metallurgy starts changing at about 420 degrees a
nd getting the CHT up that high is bad. You obviously aren't concerned. W
hy are others concerned and not you?
Gary Specketer
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
Deems,
410F on climb out is not IMO considered high, even 420 isn't out of the nor
m on a 'steep/ long climb, but getting warm.
What are the other 4 cylinders' CHT during normal climb out/, steep/ long c
limbs?
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hottest Cyl CHT
What's your hottest cylinder ?
The reason I'm asking is that mine is #6, followed closely by #2 @ OSH I wa
s asking around and it seemed that the same was true for several others? Du
ring the summer which lasts a while here in AZ (Today's high is 105) I need
to pay attention to these during climb as # 6 will easily top 410F and wit
h a steep/long climb will reach 420.
My initial assumption is that #6 is loosing some cooling air to the cylinde
rs which is being sent to to the oil cooler. For those of us with the plenu
m, it's probably compounded due to having the oil air intake much lower and
eclipsing the cylinder.
I've been noodling about how to get more cooling air through #6 & #2, and w
ould appreciate any thoughts/efforts that others have done/attempted. I jus
t finished installing some 'fixed cowl flaps' on the bottom of the cowl sim
ilar to what Al Gardner did, the theory being that it would increase the lo
wer cowl exit area and improve air flow from upper to lower cowl, but a tes
t flight yesterday didn't indicate much if any improvement.
I've thought about cutting back the baffeling on #6 & #2 that wrapped aroun
d the lower portion of the cylinder. I recall Sam James saying that the Van
's baffeling wasn't opened up enough. Thoughts????
Thanks
Deems
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Lower cowling slot
Date: Sep 29, 2010
Now that several of us are working on this problem maybe a solution will
appear.
that latest data I recorded was on a flight from Maderia, CA back to Yuma
during cruise on Aug. 15th:
128 IAS, 160 TAS, 55f OAT, 207f Oil, 11,500', 2300 RPM. 19.6" MAP, 12.3 GPH
ROP
#1 396, 387, 348, 345, 373, 369
#1 1339, 1289, 1323, 1246, 1284, 1324
The addition of the cowl flaps helped keep oil temps down on climb by about
5-10 degrees. Before I installed them I found it very difficult to keep oil
temps down with high ground temps and any delay in TO. I had them go to
230-35 before I could drop the nose and get some airspeed if I had prolonged
taxi time.
Now I'm going to replace the temp cowl flaps with glass ones that look a
little better. However I don't see any way they can retract.
I am running an IO-540 with 10:1 and 1 Lightspeed at 315 HP. I have
installed a second oil cooler on the right side using the same setup as the
stock cooler on the left. With second cooler and the cowl flaps I aam
reasonably happy. I have a buddy with some thermocouples and we plan on
checking the oil temps going in and out of the 2 oil coolers which are
connected in series.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
Albert,
THANKS for this idea, I'm in the process of fabricating something identical,
only out of fiberglass.
How much of an improvement do you feel you got? CHT? Oil Temp?
Did you see any reduction in TAS?
THANKS
Deems
(Hope to see you @ Copperstate!)
On 9/15/2010 3:20 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
I fought high oil temps and installed a second oil cooler on the right side.
Final part of the solution was cowl flaps as these pics show. Before I put
the non-adjustable flaps in I had louvers in those locations but they didn't
do enough. Still have to be careful of extended ground operation in 100+
days though.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I extended the slot forward to enable easier removal of the 3 blade prop as
others have done. I haven't made a cover for this area but it doesn't seem
to have made any real difference to the oil temps in any case.
My oil temps now average 206 deg F at 5000' OAT 50F
Initial running was around 215-216 deg F
I was told everything will eventually stabilise and don't be too concerned
about the high oil temps, but I'm not real comfortable with the temps
creeping up there.
A suggestion was put to me to install small ramp style wedges in front of
the stock louvers in order to drag the hot air out and away from the lower
cowl. Anybody had any experience with this?
John 40315
Phase 1 Fly off
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, 14 September 2010 3:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowling slot
I would like to make a removable plate on the lower cowling to make it
easier to put on and take off. I was wondering if it's worth it for those
of you who have done it and if I should close the gap to the front gear leg
or leave the same amount of space for cooling. Was this space used for the
equation for cooling? Any pics out there for reference?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312297#312297
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Where to buy this
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Hi there
Does anyone know where to get these steel clamps? Aircraftspruce doesn't have them.
MS21333-75 Clamp MS21333-69 Clamp .38id
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314200#314200
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Subject: Re: Lower cowling slot
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Well, things will run hotter ROP than LOP. I'd try LOP to get the CHT
down, which should be good for 20-30 degrees by itself.
I assume you are using 2300 rpm looking for economy. At that altitude, the
lower rpm limits power available and I believe you get less cooling. I would
use at least 2500 rpm when above 10,000 and see if that helps cooling at
all. With your compression, and the Lightspeed advancing the timing, using
a lower rpm is like putting your car in overdrive with full throttle...it
puts more of a load on everything than going the same speed at higher rpm.
On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 12:43 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> Now that several of us are working on this problem maybe a solution will
> appear.
>
> that latest data I recorded was on a flight from Maderia, CA back to Yuma
> during cruise on Aug. 15th:
>
> 128 IAS, 160 TAS, 55f OAT, 207f Oil, 11,500', 2300 RPM. 19.6" MAP, 12.3 GPH
> ROP
>
> #1 396, 387, 348, 345, 373, 369
>
> #1 1339, 1289, 1323, 1246, 1284, 1324
>
>
> The addition of the cowl flaps helped keep oil temps down on climb by about
> 5-10 degrees. Before I installed them I found it very difficult to keep oil
> temps down with high ground temps and any delay in TO. I had them go to
> 230-35 before I could drop the nose and get some airspeed if I had prolonged
> taxi time.
>
> Now I'm going to replace the temp cowl flaps with glass ones that look a
> little better. However I don't see any way they can retract.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Where to buy this
Date: Sep 30, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Michael -
Try Genuine Aircraft Hardware: http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/
neal
==============
Hi there
Does anyone know where to get these steel clamps? Aircraftspruce doesn't
have them.
MS21333-75 =C2- =C2- Clamp =C2- =C2- MS21333-69 =C2- =C2-
Clamp .38id
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 4" aluminum flanges
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Looking for a place to get 4" aluminum flanges for the oil cooler hose.
Recommendations?
Carl Froehlich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Schmid <hufise(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Where to buy this
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Hallo Michael
meinst du diese
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/Item/144219/
gr=FCsse Daniel
> Subject: RV10-List: Where to buy this
> From: rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net
> Date: Thu=2C 30 Sep 2010 03:11:07 -0700
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
et>
>
> Hi there
> Does anyone know where to get these steel clamps? Aircraftspruce doesn't
have them.
> MS21333-75 =C2 =C2 Clamp =C2 =C2 MS21333-69 =C2 =C2 Clamp .38id
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (interior=2Cavionics=2C wiring)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314200#314200
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Where to buy this
Date: Sep 30, 2010
These guys have some of the most detailed info (pictures and descriptions)
of aircraft hardware I know of plus they are a source for the stuff also. I
imagine most of the major suppliers carry the same stuff.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Hi there
Does anyone know where to get these steel clamps? Aircraftspruce doesn't
have them.
MS21333-75 Clamp MS21333-69 Clamp .38id
Cheers
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Carl,
ACS has 4" flanges for a 3" hose. Not sure if this is exactly what you are looking
for:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314219#314219
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Thanks - but I'm looking for a flange to do a 4" hose.
Looking at "The List" on Van's site he has a part VA-187 as "4" flanged
duct". I assume this is part of the firewall forward kit that I'm not
using.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 10:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
Carl,
ACS has 4" flanges for a 3" hose. Not sure if this is exactly what you are
looking for:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314219#314219
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Subject: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
That's correct. It's in the foreground of the picture here:
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/img_1705.jpg
On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
> carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>
> Thanks - but I'm looking for a flange to do a 4" hose.
>
> Looking at "The List" on Van's site he has a part VA-187 as "4" flanged
> duct". I assume this is part of the firewall forward kit that I'm not
> using.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4
> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 10:37 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
>
>
> Carl,
> ACS has 4" flanges for a 3" hose. Not sure if this is exactly what you are
> looking for:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314219#314219
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to buy this
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
True, they have pretty much everything, but don't try to even look at their website
on Saturdays, just when you need it most, cause it's "closed".
Lenny
Albert Gardner wrote:
> These guys have some of the most detailed info (pictures and descriptions)
> of aircraft hardware I know of plus they are a source for the stuff also. I
> imagine most of the major suppliers carry the same stuff.
> http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314232#314232
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Thanks!
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
That's correct. It's in the foreground of the picture here:
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/img_1705.jpg
On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
Thanks - but I'm looking for a flange to do a 4" hose.
Looking at "The List" on Van's site he has a part VA-187 as "4" flanged
duct". I assume this is part of the firewall forward kit that I'm not
using.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 10:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 4" aluminum flanges
Carl,
ACS has 4" flanges for a 3" hose. Not sure if this is exactly what you are
looking for:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314219#314219
= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: performance
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
We've had zero issues with anyone who has installed the Autotrim module and the
VP system. They work well together and a link is posted earlier showing how they
are wired together.
As with the TCW system or if you use mechanical relays, the TT autotrim system
takes control away from our system to make its own adjustments. If the TT autotrim
system runs away there is no way to stop it other than to pull power to the
TT autotrim module. If you want a failsafe switch then put one in series bw
the trim motor and whatever controller is closest in the wiring. That switch
can stop the motor from running but cannot allow you to run the trim motor back.
The VP system DOES have runaway trim protection, variable speed trim, backup trim
controls, trim position indicator, and trim fault checking on startup. And
with rock-simple wiring.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com "Move up to a modern electrical system"
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314239#314239
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: I did it!
After lurking for 5 years 6 month and 6 days, visiting several times a
10 under construction, asking a lot of questions the last 10 days and
getting the approval of my wife! (and a good exchange rate)
I've ordered yesterday night my kit
Werner
Glastar #5794 HB-YKP 502hrs
RV-10 #41122 on order since 23h 05 min
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: I did it!
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Sep 30, 2010
Congrats again from me as well! Swiss RV-10 population is growing :-)
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314295#314295
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Bibb" <rbibb(at)tomet.net>
Subject: Re: I did it!
Date: Oct 01, 2010
Congratulations.
I wonder how many RV-10s have been sold outside the US?
Richard Bibb
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 1:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: I did it!
Congrats again from me as well! Swiss RV-10 population is growing :-)
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314295#314295
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: I did it!
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 01, 2010
Welkomen. Hope to see you at OSH next year. It is a great project and a great flying
plane... :D
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314382#314382
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 2010
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: RE: I did it!
Congratulations Werner! And welcome to the exclusive Glastar/RV-10 builders
club. Hope you enjoy the -10 construction process as much as I did and
you'll have a fine, 4 seat, going places airplane when you are done.
Perry Casson
Regina Canada
Glastar C-GSPC
RV-10 C-FMHP
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 02, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: RE: I did it!
Thanks Perry,
I guess so, after 7 years of abstinence my fingers are itching to get
that drum again :)
Did you manage to keep the Glastar and the 10 and if how :)
Cheers Werner
Glastar #5794 HB-YKP
RV-10 #41122 on order
On 02.10.2010 13:55, Perry Casson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Perry Casson
>
> Congratulations Werner! And welcome to the exclusive Glastar/RV-10 builders
> club. Hope you enjoy the -10 construction process as much as I did and
> you'll have a fine, 4 seat, going places airplane when you are done.
>
> Perry Casson
> Regina Canada
>
> Glastar C-GSPC
> RV-10 C-FMHP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: N410BL moves to the airport
Date: Oct 02, 2010
My garage wasn't long enough to mount the engine and put the landing gear
on, so I leased a hangar this month. This morning we moved everything to
the KDLZ.
With a large group of friends, EAA'ers, and RV'ers the move happened without
a hitch. We loaded the all the aircraft parts on the rental truck and
everything else in Phil Newlon's trailer. This enabled a single trip to the
airport. We started loading at 8:00am and finished unloading by 10:45am.
Everyone was home in time to see the Buckeyes beat Illinois.
The fuselage was loaded first.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00024.jpg
Everything arrived safely at the airport.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00025.jpg
A successful move. Thanks to Dave Coventry, Janice Leffler, Ian Bergstrom,
Brad Leffler, Ryan Kay, Tom Webster, John Blakely, Greg Schroeder, Rory, Ron
Giesman, Mike Cencula, Brent Owens, Phil Newlon, Steve Carr, and Renee
Leffler.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00026.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: N410BL moves to the airport
Date: Oct 02, 2010
Hopefully you won't have to drive far. The time you have to work will be
noticeable
Congratulations on your progress
Gary Specketer
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2010 3:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N410BL moves to the airport
My garage wasn't long enough to mount the engine and put the landing gear
on, so I leased a hangar this month. This morning we moved everything to
the KDLZ.
With a large group of friends, EAA'ers, and RV'ers the move happened without
a hitch. We loaded the all the aircraft parts on the rental truck and
everything else in Phil Newlon's trailer. This enabled a single trip to the
airport. We started loading at 8:00am and finished unloading by 10:45am.
Everyone was home in time to see the Buckeyes beat Illinois.
The fuselage was loaded first.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00024.jpg
Everything arrived safely at the airport.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00025.jpg
A successful move. Thanks to Dave Coventry, Janice Leffler, Ian Bergstrom,
Brad Leffler, Ryan Kay, Tom Webster, John Blakely, Greg Schroeder, Rory, Ron
Giesman, Mike Cencula, Brent Owens, Phil Newlon, Steve Carr, and Renee
Leffler.
Description:
http://www.kitlog.com/photos/project_260/full/FP02102010A00026.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rear heat - Sealing rear bulkhead
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 02, 2010
Flew a couple local guys from SE IA to Manhattan, KS today to pick up a Tri-Pacer.
Coming back at 7500 ft, it was 28f. Guess winter is on it's way :(
Couple questions.....
I get plenty of heat a the feet of the rear passengers. Has anyone made any type
of defuser to re-direct the heat?
How about sealing off any drafts from the rear of the plane? Seemed like there
was cool air coming from the rear to the front. I don't seem to have any air
leaks around the doors.
btw... Aren't we blessed with a great cross country plane. I have about 100 hours
since first flight on Memorial Day. Been to Atlanta a couple times, San
Antonio once, Milwaukee once, Minneapolis once, home to Muscle Shoals, Al a couple
times and all parts in between. Just have to get it ready to fly in the
winter now.
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314431#314431
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: I did it!
Date: Oct 02, 2010
Hey. I resemble that remark!
...via phone
On Oct 2, 2010, at 4:55 AM, Perry Casson wrote:
>
> Congratulations Werner! And welcome to the exclusive Glastar/RV-10 builders
> club. Hope you enjoy the -10 construction process as much as I did and
> you'll have a fine, 4 seat, going places airplane when you are done.
>
> Perry Casson
> Regina Canada
>
> Glastar C-GSPC
> RV-10 C-FMHP
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RE: I did it!
Date: Oct 02, 2010
me too; sold the Glastar in March (now has 830TT) 10 now has 330TT.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: I did it!
>
> Hey. I resemble that remark!
>
> ...via phone
>
> On Oct 2, 2010, at 4:55 AM, Perry Casson wrote:
>
>>
>> Congratulations Werner! And welcome to the exclusive Glastar/RV-10
>> builders
>> club. Hope you enjoy the -10 construction process as much as I did and
>> you'll have a fine, 4 seat, going places airplane when you are done.
>>
>> Perry Casson
>> Regina Canada
>>
>> Glastar C-GSPC
>> RV-10 C-FMHP
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 2010
Subject: Re: Rear heat - Sealing rear bulkhead
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
When you say "I don't seem to have any air leaks around the doors." Check
the baggage door. The door itself and the latch are not that solid. You
may have a significant amount of air entering there.
Jim C
N312F - Almost back in the air. 185 Hours
On Sat, Oct 2, 2010 at 8:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Flew a couple local guys from SE IA to Manhattan, KS today to pick up a
> Tri-Pacer. Coming back at 7500 ft, it was 28f. Guess winter is on it's way
> :(
>
> Couple questions.....
>
> I get plenty of heat a the feet of the rear passengers. Has anyone made
> any type of defuser to re-direct the heat?
>
> How about sealing off any drafts from the rear of the plane? Seemed like
> there was cool air coming from the rear to the front. I don't seem to have
> any air leaks around the doors.
>
> btw... Aren't we blessed with a great cross country plane. I have about
> 100 hours since first flight on Memorial Day. Been to Atlanta a couple
> times, San Antonio once, Milwaukee once, Minneapolis once, home to Muscle
> Shoals, Al a couple times and all parts in between. Just have to get it
> ready to fly in the winter now.
>
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find
> ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314431#314431
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 03, 2010
Subject: Re: Rear heat - Sealing rear bulkhead
I had a lot of cold air coming in from the tail cone before the
interior went in. The interior sealed it off to the point that it's
not an issue.
I split my heater so that the left side is dedicated to the windshield
and the right supplies the front and rear outlets. I've only barely
cracked the defrost once or twice--I'm sure it would melt the
windshield at full blast.
Even just having "half heat" to the cabin is plenty for us.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sat, Oct 2, 2010 at 5:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Flew a couple local guys from SE IA to Manhattan, KS today to pick up a Tri-Pacer.
Coming back at 7500 ft, it was 28f. Guess winter is on it's way :(
>
> Couple questions.....
>
> I get plenty of heat a the feet of the rear passengers. Has anyone made any type
of defuser to re-direct the heat?
>
> How about sealing off any drafts from the rear of the plane? Seemed like there
was cool air coming from the rear to the front. I don't seem to have any air
leaks around the doors.
>
> btw... Aren't we blessed with a great cross country plane. I have about 100
hours since first flight on Memorial Day. Been to Atlanta a couple times, San
Antonio once, Milwaukee once, Minneapolis once, home to Muscle Shoals, Al a couple
times and all parts in between. Just have to get it ready to fly in the winter
now.
>
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always find ways
to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314431#314431
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finally
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 03, 2010
Hey guys, finally got the cowl fitted up. Didn't take too long... especially if
you don't bother to trim ANY of the EXTRA material. Works just fine.
Also finished up the horizontal and elevators... came out great.
All kidding aside, this plane FLEW into LOE, had more traffic of fellow RV'ers
than any other plane. It had no N number, no placards, no registration info whatsoever,
one flat tire, wheel pants that had a 2" mismatch between halves....
it was totally unbelieveable.
I think the guy got wind of someone going to airport management, so he took off...
sortof.... fuel leaks, painted with a roller, eck!
7-9 RV10's at LOE.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314491#314491
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4734c_166.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4725c_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4726c_381.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Finally
Date: Oct 03, 2010
Did he have a sign to be judged? Looks like a real winner of the "don't do
this at home" award.
To think I was worried about the pinholes in my composite
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2010 9:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finally
>
> Hey guys, finally got the cowl fitted up. Didn't take too long...
> especially if you don't bother to trim ANY of the EXTRA material. Works
> just fine.
> Also finished up the horizontal and elevators... came out great.
> All kidding aside, this plane FLEW into LOE, had more traffic of fellow
> RV'ers than any other plane. It had no N number, no placards, no
> registration info whatsoever, one flat tire, wheel pants that had a 2"
> mismatch between halves.... it was totally unbelieveable.
> I think the guy got wind of someone going to airport management, so he
> took off... sortof.... fuel leaks, painted with a roller, eck!
> 7-9 RV10's at LOE.
> Don McDonald
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314491#314491
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4734c_166.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4725c_183.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4726c_381.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: winter flying
Date: Oct 03, 2010
Has anyone used a plate to reduce the oil cooler air intake diameter
from 4" to say 2"? or a plate to screen off half the area? My Lycoming
rep says the 165-180F currently achieved is adequate; however I may fly
north this winter. It's finally cooling in AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 03, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: winter flying
What I can tell you is that I installed a butterfly valve... that I remove
in the summer, but can dial in perfect temps in the winter.... but here's t
he real point... The 2nd time I installed it, I didn't use locktight, and i
t fell into the openning.... even though it covered about 3/4's of the open
ning, the temps were perfect.- So, if you install some kind of plate, you
might either want it somewhat adjustable, or cover up at least 60%.
Maybe we should ask the guy who did such a nice job on his plane at LOE!
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 10/3/10, DLM wrote:
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: winter flying
Date: Sunday, October 3, 2010, 1:37 PM
Has anyone used a plate to reduce the oil cooler air intake diameter from 4
" to say 2"? or a plate to screen off half the area? My Lycoming rep says t
he 165-180F currently achieved is adequate; however I may fly north this wi
nter. It's finally cooling in AZ.-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: winter flying
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com>
Date: Oct 03, 2010
We installed a cable controlled butterfly valve on our cooler plenum. I think Avery
tools sell them. You can from the cabin, control the amount of air flow to
the cooler, thus controlling the oil temp.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314529#314529
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Messy inboard fuel vent
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 03, 2010
This is a sort of follow up to the 1/29/08 discussion on fuel vents and fuel vent
icing. I seem to be getting a fair amount of leaking (overflow) from my fuel
vent especially on the pilot side. I have the standard Vans installation of
the vent with a 90 degree downturn - plus I drilled a very small #50 hole in the
top of the aluminum line (per 1/29/08 discussion) so
that my tank would not collapse if the vent iced up. Does anyone think that it
would help the leak-out if I elevated the bend where the 90 degree turn is at
the wing root. Are there other ramifications to doing this?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - finally done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314560#314560
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Messy inboard fuel vent
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
The problem is probably that the outboard end of that line is not as high in the
tank as it should be. I have fixed this situation before by reaching in with
my finger through the fuel filler neck and bending the outboard end of the vent
line towards the top skin of the tank. That line just needs to be open to
the tank, so the higher it is in the tank, the more fuel you can have in the
tank before it leaks out. I don't remember the plans making a big deal about
the actual end of the line, but the closer it is to the outboard rib and the closer
it is to the top skin, the more fuel you will be able to fit into the tank
without it leaking.
Putting a bend in the inboard vent line will probably not do anything, because
that would still be much lower than the level of fuel at the open end of the vent
line in the tank. Putting a bend may hold a little bit of fuel in the line
instead of it leaking out, but I don't see any benefit in that.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Oct 3, 2010, at 11:42 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> This is a sort of follow up to the 1/29/08 discussion on fuel vents and fuel
vent icing. I seem to be getting a fair amount of leaking (overflow) from my fuel
vent especially on the pilot side. I have the standard Vans installation of
the vent with a 90 degree downturn - plus I drilled a very small #50 hole in
the top of the aluminum line (per 1/29/08 discussion) so
> that my tank would not collapse if the vent iced up. Does anyone think that it
would help the leak-out if I elevated the bend where the 90 degree turn is at
the wing root. Are there other ramifications to doing this?
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - finally done
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314560#314560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N410BL moves to the airport
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
That's great! I move mine to the hanger Saturday. Hopefully it will go as smoothly
as your move.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314584#314584
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N410BL moves to the airport
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Eric_Kallio wrote:
> That's great! I move mine to the hanger Saturday. Hopefully it will go as smoothly
as your move.
With enough people and plenty of preparation, it should go smoothly. But as an
IT Project Manager in my day job, I'm kinda anal about those details.
Fortunately, you have awhile before having to deal with lack heat. It's an issue
that we are currently having up north, a few weeks earlier than normal.
Are you moving to BTR? I'm hoping to get down there to visit my mother at Thanksgiving
or Christmas.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314596#314596
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Subject: Re: winter flying
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
I live in Wisconsin and winter temps are usually between 10 and 40 degrees
f. I made a cover plate to use on the oil cooler with holes approximately
3/4" diameter. It works very well, however you must watch your temps if the
temperature rises above 40 degrees f. (note: temps here below 0 are not
unusual) I would suggest that you do not install it untill you are north of
the Mason ' Dixon line.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233m
the fast one
On Sun, Oct 3, 2010 at 3:37 PM, DLM wrote:
> Has anyone used a plate to reduce the oil cooler air intake diameter from
> 4" to say 2"? or a plate to screen off half the area? My Lycoming rep says
> the 165-180F currently achieved is adequate; however I may fly north this
> winter. It's finally cooling in AZ.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: N410BL moves to the airport
Gee, and am in first week of having to deal with lack of
heat.....don't have to fire up swamp cooler, air conditioner, adjust
schedule to before dawn hours, etc. Finally overnight lows are below 90. ;-)
On 10/4/2010 9:33 AM, rleffler wrote:
> -
> Fortunately, you have awhile before having to deal with lack heat. It's an issue
that we are currently having up north, a few weeks earlier than normal.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Empennage Moved to Hanger for extended storage
Date: Oct 04, 2010
We another milestone is done. I completely finished the Empennage for the
-10 this weekend and made an extended storage place in the hanger for it.
Horizontal stab is mounted to the garage wall, as well is the Vertical stab
and rudder.
I completed the wings parts inventory and managed to find places to store
all the parts. So I am good to go for a while.
John Cumins
40864 Starting wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: winter flying
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Give Eric Faires of Nonstop Aviation a call 256-710-6120
here is a link to his website for a 4" valve that fits in the plenum to the oil
cooler.
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-parts-c-1337.html
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (60 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314693#314693
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N410BL moves to the airport
From: "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Congrats Bob, there is something about the move to the airports that gives the
project a boost regardless of the stage you are at.
About the return on the brownie points as Gary pointed out, I hope the "yield"
equates to more free time to get-R-done!!
Good luck in your search for an adequate heating solution for the winter months,
you will need it.
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (60 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314694#314694
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Kelly,
My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back and I
was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs cylinder 5 with the
J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A (leanest injector).
My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 at
11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and
cylinder 6 at 11.4.
As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider was
serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on?
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Kelly,
I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Alan,
Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is blocking
flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and your A&P can
NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't move and completely
stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable fuel flow. That is why you
should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm sure Mattituck will make it right,
pronto.
Kelly
A&P/IA
EAA Tech Counselor
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler wrote:
>
> Tim,
> I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the
> trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100
degrees
> rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle
> cylinder
#1
> runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because
> they
are
> the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been
> trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours
> and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try
> flying lean of peak.
> My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on
> Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send
> the unit in for service.
> Alan
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N410BL moves to the airport
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Oct 04, 2010
[/quote]Are you moving to BTR? I'm hoping to get down there to visit my mother
at Thanksgiving or Christmas.[/quote]
Actually, I live in the suburbs of Baton Rouge (Prairieville). Have been here for
about 6 years. Got tired of the Northern Ohio winters and found an active duty
job in the National Guard that keeps me here. I will be here over Thanksgiving
weekend trying to get the plane wrapped up before inspection. It will be
in the hanger starting this Saturday at L38 south of Baton Rouge. I would love
another set of eyes on it if you happen through the area. I have an ever growing
list of little things I want to fix. For Christmas I will be in Honduras doing
a divemaster internship.
Eric