RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ha

October 04, 2010 - Present



      
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From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: winter flying
Date: Oct 04, 2010
I have Eric's device in my plane. I live in NH. It really helps in the winter. Alan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ivankris Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 6:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: winter flying Give Eric Faires of Nonstop Aviation a call 256-710-6120 here is a link to his website for a 4" valve that fits in the plenum to the oil cooler. http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-parts-c-1337.html -------- Ivan K. www.ivankristensen.com Builder # 40838 Flying (60 hrs.) C-GMDV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314693#314693 CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Subject: Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Obviously #3 and #5 are your outliers. The question is why. I'd see what GAMI has to say on the data. Somehow, either the injector on 5 isn't what it says it is, or the cylinder is getting significantly more air some how. Is the engine rough when you get all the way to #3 peaking? On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: > > Kelly, > My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back and I > was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs cylinder 5 with > the > J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A (leanest injector). > My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 at > 11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and > cylinder 6 at 11.4. > As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider was > serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on? > Alan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > Kelly, > I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend. > Alan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > Alan, > Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is > blocking > flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and your A&P can > NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't move and completely > stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable fuel flow. That is why you > should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm sure Mattituck will make it right, > pronto. > Kelly > A&P/IA > EAA Tech Counselor > > On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > > > Tim, > > I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the > > trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100 > degrees > > rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle > > cylinder > #1 > > runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because > > they > are > > the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been > > trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours > > and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try > > flying lean of peak. > > My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on > > Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send > > the unit in for service. > > Alan > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Kelly, Everything pointed to the fuel flow divider and this was sent out and serviced but despite trying to get cylinder 3 to run leaner and cylinder 5 to run richer the GAMIs have failed. The only other thought I had was that maybe the EGT probes were swapped on cylinder 3 and 5??? Alan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 8:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors Obviously #3 and #5 are your outliers. The question is why. I'd see what GAMI has to say on the data. Somehow, either the injector on 5 isn't what it says it is, or the cylinder is getting significantly more air some how. Is the engine rough when you get all the way to #3 peaking? On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: Kelly, My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back and I was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs cylinder 5 with the J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A (leanest injector). My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 at 11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and cylinder 6 at 11.4. As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider was serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on? Alan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors Kelly, I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend. Alan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors Alan, Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is blocking flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and your A&P can NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't move and completely stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable fuel flow. That is why you should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm sure Mattituck will make it right, pronto. Kelly A&P/IA EAA Tech Counselor On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: > > Tim, > I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the > trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100 degrees > rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle > cylinder #1 > runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because > they are > the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been > trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours > and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try > flying lean of peak. > My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on > Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send > the unit in for service. > Alan CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 Get free PC security at http://www.cyberdefender.com <http://www.cyberdefender.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Hi Ages ago I seem to remember seeing a nose wheel mod that kept a tow bar from penetrating the nose wheel pant. Rather it had a washed and elongated bolt that kept the tow bar outside of the wheel pant and prevented damage due to improper insertion. Does anyone have a link to this - I can't seem to find it in the archives. Manny thanks Les #40643 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Door Operation
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Hi I have been meaning to post this question for months but kept forgetting. Here goes - when I unlatch one of my doors, the strut pushes the door open on its own. The other door needs to be opened a couple of inches before the strut opens it the rest of the way. What is the "proper" way for the door to open - unlatch and it goes up by itself or unlatch and push open before the strut takes over. Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 04, 2010
It's there, and I just converted mine over this past weekend. Use a 3/8 x 2 1/2 inch long box head bolt with a body style big washer on it to stop the tow bar ears from going too far towards the pants. You also have to use about a 1/2 inch long sleeve between the bold head and the aluminum trianglular block that holds the front of the wheel pant support. I found a 1 inch long solid bronze insert and cut it in two pieces. You might look at your threads closely. Mine were fine (24) threads and one had started to strip, so based on long time A&P comments, I drilled out and used heli coil inserts so I could use coarse (16) threads. He said aluminum should use coarse threads, not fine. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow. grumpy On Oct 4, 2010, at 8:14 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > Hi > > Ages ago I seem to remember seeing a nose wheel mod that kept a tow > bar from penetrating the nose wheel pant. Rather it had a washed and > elongated bolt that kept the tow bar outside of the wheel pant and > prevented damage due to improper insertion. > > Does anyone have a link to this - I can't seem to find it in the > archives. > > Manny thanks > > Les > #40643 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 04, 2010
Grazi ..Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John Sent: October-04-10 7:53 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nosewheel Mod It's there, and I just converted mine over this past weekend. Use a 3/8 x 2 1/2 inch long box head bolt with a body style big washer on it to stop the tow bar ears from going too far towards the pants. You also have to use about a 1/2 inch long sleeve between the bold head and the aluminum trianglular block that holds the front of the wheel pant support. I found a 1 inch long solid bronze insert and cut it in two pieces. You might look at your threads closely. Mine were fine (24) threads and one had started to strip, so based on long time A&P comments, I drilled out and used heli coil inserts so I could use coarse (16) threads. He said aluminum should use coarse threads, not fine. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow. grumpy On Oct 4, 2010, at 8:14 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi Ages ago I seem to remember seeing a nose wheel mod that kept a tow bar from penetrating the nose wheel pant. Rather it had a washed and elongated bolt that kept the tow bar outside of the wheel pant and prevented damage due to improper insertion. Does anyone have a link to this - I can't seem to find it in the archives. Manny thanks Les #40643 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri bution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Certainly a possibility, since they are adjacent cylinders. Does the engine behave like it has a lot of imbalance between cylinders or no? I'd certainly try swapping those two probes. It will tell you if they are reading correctly or are swapped. Something is swapped, because your results are the reverse of what you would expect with those nozzles. Other option, if easier, would be to swap injector nozzles between those two cylinders. It will either get a lot better or a lot worse. On 10/4/2010 9:16 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: > > Kelly, > > Everything pointed to the fuel flow divider and this was sent out and > serviced but despite trying to get cylinder 3 to run leaner and > cylinder 5 to run richer the GAMIs have failed. The only other thought > I had was that maybe the EGT probes were swapped on cylinder 3 and 5??? > > Alan > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > McMullen > *Sent:* Monday, October 04, 2010 8:58 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > Obviously #3 and #5 are your outliers. The question is why. I'd see > what GAMI has to say on the data. Somehow, either the injector on 5 > isn't what it says it is, or the cylinder is getting significantly > more air some how. Is the engine rough when you get all the way to #3 > peaking? > > On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > > > > Kelly, > My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back and I > was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs cylinder 5 > with the > J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A (leanest injector). > My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 at > 11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and > cylinder 6 at 11.4. > As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider was > serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on? > Alan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Kelly, > I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend. > Alan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Alan, > Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is > blocking > flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and your A&P can > NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't move and completely > stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable fuel flow. That is why you > should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm sure Mattituck will make it > right, > pronto. > Kelly > A&P/IA > EAA Tech Counselor > > On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > > > > > Tim, > > I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all the > > trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying 100 > degrees > > rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle > > cylinder > #1 > > runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because > > they > are > > the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been > > trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours > > and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I try > > flying lean of peak. > > My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on > > Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will send > > the unit in for service. > > Alan > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at http://www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Door Operation
Date: Oct 04, 2010
I think it also depends a lot on the weight of the door after interior finishing and the age of the struts. Early before the interior, the struts were just about right assisting the opening. Now after interior and 300 hours they need "help" opening the door and just barely keep it open. Others on the list have said Van has a higher pressure "HD" version which I will probably try. Dick Sipp N110DV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
Previously I posted this: *Match: * */#4/* *Message: * */#28437/* *Date: * */Aug 28, 2010/* *From: * */Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>/* *Subject: * /*Tool question - anyone familiar with Enderes tools? <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=78557902?KEYS=enderes?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=4?SERIAL=22105026768?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>*/ * I have this one long shaft phillips head screwdriver that keeps falling into my hands. It seems to be a #1 phillips but actually works better than both my #1 and #2 Craftsman drivers. Probably inherited it from my Dad's shop. It's rusty and looks like hell so I'm never drawn to it... until I'm struggling with some screw. I always end up with this one in my hand and the problem is solved. I've looked Enderes up on the Web and see they forge tools and blah blah. Any tool knowledgeable people out there know anything about Enderes? I think I want to try some more. * So I've gone to the company web site with the intent of buying a few shorter models than the 10" one I have. Their pricing makes it clear that the best way to get one or two is to find an old school hardware store that carries them. I found one 2 miles down the road but they only had regular Enderes drivers in stock, no Phillips. Then a Google search turned up this little gem of a story from the year 2000 on an old school Web site called "Everything2". I was amazed! http://everything2.com/index.pl?node=the+perfect+screwdriver&lastnode_id=1797151&searchy=search This is the exact screwdriver I've been lusting after! I will be a very happy camper if I can get a set of Enderes Phillips drivers in the shorter sizes. Maybe I'll just pay the $30 including $10 of shipping for a set of 3 from the factory. With all the screws on our planes, it's nice to have the 'perfect screwdriver' even if there is no such thing. But I'm telling you, this one works MUCH better than my Craftsman drivers. Bill "enjoying the paint" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: My first question, WD-415 related
So there you go, my first question and that kit has not even arrived! I checked the archives and found references for the aftermarket WD-415 replacement to be found from Clevelandtools and http://www.rivethead-aero.com/. Later is no longer online and on the Clevelandtools shop I could not fin it. Any help for locating it please? Many thanks Werner Glastar #5794 HB-YKP RV-10 #41122 on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Kelly, Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you posted. Here is an excel spread sheet of that last flight. Alan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 10:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors Certainly a possibility, since they are adjacent cylinders. Does the engine behave like it has a lot of imbalance between cylinders or no? I'd certainly try swapping those two probes. It will tell you if they are reading correctly or are swapped. Something is swapped, because your results are the reverse of what you would expect with those nozzles. Other option, if easier, would be to swap injector nozzles between those two cylinders. It will either get a lot better or a lot worse. On 10/4/2010 9:16 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: > > Kelly, > > Everything pointed to the fuel flow divider and this was sent out and > serviced but despite trying to get cylinder 3 to run leaner and > cylinder 5 to run richer the GAMIs have failed. The only other thought > I had was that maybe the EGT probes were swapped on cylinder 3 and 5??? > > Alan > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > McMullen > *Sent:* Monday, October 04, 2010 8:58 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > Obviously #3 and #5 are your outliers. The question is why. I'd see > what GAMI has to say on the data. Somehow, either the injector on 5 > isn't what it says it is, or the cylinder is getting significantly > more air some how. Is the engine rough when you get all the way to #3 > peaking? > > On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > > > > Kelly, > My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back > and I was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs > cylinder 5 with the J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A > (leanest injector). > My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 > at > 11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and > cylinder 6 at 11.4. > As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider > was serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on? > Alan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Alan > Mekler > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Kelly, > I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend. > Alan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Kelly > McMullen > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Alan, > Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is > blocking flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and > your A&P can NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't > move and completely stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable > fuel flow. That is why you should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm > sure Mattituck will make it right, pronto. > Kelly > A&P/IA > EAA Tech Counselor > > On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > --> > > > > > Tim, > > I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all > > the trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying > > 100 > degrees > > rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle > > cylinder > #1 > > runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because > > they > are > > the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been > > trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours > > and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I > > try flying lean of peak. > > My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on > > Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will > > send the unit in for service. > > Alan > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at http://www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > * > > > * CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10? - Follow-up
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
I fly over the hill to do business in SF frequently. I like Marin's Gnoss field that I flew out of for many years. The gas is cheaper at the self service in Petaluma just north of Gnoss, but Gnoss is closer to SF. Hertz (and I believe Enterprise) will pick you up to get your rental car at Gnoss. I always use Hertz. Oakland used to be great (Kaiser Air) but now VERY expensive. Gnoss has lots of tie downs. Parking is cheap $6 and is quite safe plus they have a night security guard. Be sure to park facing west. The hotels in Marin are cheaper ($100/night) and quieter than in SF. I like the Marriott Courtyard -Larkspur and the Extended Stay America San Rafael. If you book direct both have a 6:00PM free cancel policy - good if you are flying. Things to do in Marin or on the way to SF - Muir Woods, Sausalito, Whale watching at Pt. Reyes (1.5 hr drive to the point), and Ferry ride into SF from Larkspur. I would just fly down to Monterey rather than back-track unless you put down and stay at Reid-Hillview in San Jose -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314759#314759 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
The biggest problem is the head of the Phillips driver - rolling out of the screw head and buggering the screw. A few years ago my former plane partner showed me something called the "X" head screwdriver. They are hard to find, but I located some at Snap-on at OSH a few years back. (just driver tips) They have 2 or 3 tiny but distinctive ridges or cuts on the side of the tip that seem to really grip the Phillips head channels. I did a few hundred screws yesterday - doing my annual and buggered only 2 screws. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314760#314760 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10? - Follow-up
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Tim, For #1 & #2, I would say Watsonville. KWVI. It is in the middle of Monterey Bay. On the north side of the bay is Santa Cruz with its beaches and boardwalk and on the south side, Monterey/Carmel. >From WVI, San Francisco is about 80 mi. You can take the coast road (Hwy 1) for some great ocean views or up the SF bay (101 or 280) or up one and back the other. One last item, if you were to have any maintenance issues, Dave at Air Crafters is located on WVI. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314761#314761 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Hey Les, Here's the link to my previous post : http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=71126&highlight=studs The hangar guys still love it, paint still looks good! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314764#314764 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Oh yeah, I didn't make it clear in the original post -- the washer backing the head is just less than the diameter of the hole in the fiberglass so that no metal touches the glass. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314765#314765 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: Re: My first question, WD-415 related
Try iflyrv10.com Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Werner Schneider [mailto:glastar(at)gmx.net] Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 11:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: My first question, WD-415 related So there you go, my first question and that kit has not even arrived! I checked the archives and found references for the aftermarket WD-415 replacement to be found from Clevelandtools and http://www.rivethead-aero.com/. Later is no longer online and on the Clevelandtools shop I could not fin it. Any help for locating it please? Many thanks Werner Glastar #5794 HB-YKP RV-10 #41122 on order ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: My first question, WD-415 related
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
The brackets that came in my kit had a good solid weld joint but need to be attached with #6 screws instead of pop rivets. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs Fuselage 9/21/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314768#314768 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Just wishing you RV-10 builders a Merry Christmas
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
to do my top cover/doors for Christmas. Looking forward to that about like the fuel tanks. But then once finished with the tanks...it was not so bad. I hope I can say that about the fg work. -------- Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09 Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs Fuselage 9/21/10- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314770#314770 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? Cheers Werner On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Try iflyrv10.com > > Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Thanks, Lew. Les, mine look just like Lew's except my big washer is a shiny one. grumpy On Oct 5, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Les, > > Here's the link to my previous post : http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=71126&highlight=studs > > The hangar guys still love it, paint still looks good! > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Fly off completed ! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314764#314764 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: My first question, WD-415 related
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Try Iflyrv10.com David Maib 40559 flying On Oct 5, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > So there you go, > > my first question and that kit has not even arrived! > > I checked the archives and found references for the aftermarket WD-415 replacement to be found from Clevelandtools and http://www.rivethead-aero.com/. Later is no longer online and on the Clevelandtools shop I could not fin it. > > Any help for locating it please? > > Many thanks > > Werner > > Glastar #5794 HB-YKP > RV-10 #41122 on order > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
Yep, that's it. Rolling out of the head is the problem and it's what this driver tends not to do. Even at an angle. I don't know if this driver has that feature but I'm going to check. If the "x" thing is the trick, I'll have to get some for my little powered drivers. As mentioned before, Costco has one at $20 which seems to be 50% of what it costs everywhere else. Nice unit. I just ordered 3 drivers and they are on their way.....one small step for this project, one giant leap for my tool box. And I'm happy. Enderes was reselling a 15 in 1 ratcheting driver that I'd like to get but it seems to be out of stock in all channels. Will keep an eye out for it. Bill On 10/5/2010 7:26 AM, AirMike wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" > > The biggest problem is the head of the Phillips driver - rolling out of the screw head and buggering the screw. > > A few years ago my former plane partner showed me something called the "X" head screwdriver. They are hard to find, but I located some at Snap-on at OSH a few years back. (just driver tips) They have 2 or 3 tiny but distinctive ridges or cuts on the side of the tip that seem to really grip the Phillips head channels. I did a few hundred screws yesterday - doing my annual and buggered only 2 screws. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
I found bosch brand driver tips work good too, they have the ridges too. At my Lowes. Chris Lucas #40072 prepping for paint ----- Original Message ----- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2010 7:26:14 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver The biggest problem is the head of the Phillips driver - rolling out of the screw head and buggering the screw. A few years ago my former plane partner showed me something called the "X" head screwdriver. They are hard to find, but I located some at Snap-on at OSH a few years back. (just driver tips) They have 2 or 3 tiny but distinctive ridges or cuts on the side of the tip that seem to really grip the Phillips head channels. I did a few hundred screws yesterday - doing my annual and buggered only 2 screws. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314760#314760 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10? - Follow-up
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:20 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Hey all, > > Thanks for the great replies to my question about flying the > West Coast. My trip is coming up quick now, and the info you > all gave was valuable. Andrea called today and found out that > Whale Watching is good right now. The hard part is that some > locations only do weekends, and some do weekdays, so we're > trying to pray for good weather and hope all the plans work > out accordingly. > > I do have a follow-up couple of questions.... > > 1) When doing our touring around San Francisco, which > airport do you locals recommend I park at...a place that's > handy enough that I can get a rental car, and nice > enough that fuel isn't gouging and the plane will be safe? > I am _far_ from an expert on this, but... SJC (at Atlantic Aviation) is probably the most expensive, but also probably the easiest to get a rental car and "safest". They are used to serving the folks in jets, so you get high service at high prices. They can also put your plane in a hangar for a fee. PAO is nice and centrally located, but I think fuel prices are not cheap. I'd guess that RHV is probably the cheapest option in the area, don't know about rental cars there. Other choices I know less about: SQL, OAK, HWD. > 2) How about if I spend a day or three between San Francisco > and Monterey....where should I land for Monterey, or should > I just use one airport and drive to both places? > I've been to Monterey airport, and it is pretty nice. Not the cheapest option for fuel 'tho. > > FWIW: Monterey is the most accessible for Whale Watching from > a logistical perspective as far as who's open on what days, > and they've been seeing them lately. Wish I could see the > Orcas but I think that would require perhaps going to > the Seattle area and I'm not sure that's going to work > for sure on this trip. > > 3) I got good tips for where to stay if we go back by > San Diego and have to stay there, but what place to the > north of L.A. would be good and GA friendly if we need > something? > > Other than the "where to stay" questions, it all seems to > be looking pretty good. I don't make hotel plans in advance, > since an RV-10 can easily take you to a whole different > location in a short time if you can't find something. > We're just doing the usual "winging it"...going to land, > get a car, use the ipad or iphone to locate a hotel, > and then start touring around. > > Oh, and if we do try to go Kayaking or something in > the Monterey area, I'm guessing that 5/4mm wetsuits > isn't quite good enough, eh? If not, we'll maybe > just leave them at home. It's been too many cheeseburgers > since I've tried my 7mm suit. :) > I went kayaking recently in the Elkhorn Slough. It seems that all of the rental companies around there will rent you full jackets, skirts, etc. as a part of the package. So no need to bring a wetsuit. (I went with www.montereybaykayaks.com.) Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Mine works very well. Would not fly without it. Putting one in my 8A now. http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/RudderTrim.aspx Robin Sent from my iPad On Oct 5, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. > > Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? > > Cheers Werner > > On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >> >> Try iflyrv10.com >> >> Bob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Thanks a lot Robin, any idea how much deflection you use normally? Cheers Werner On 05.10.2010 17:49, Robin Marks wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks > > Mine works very well. Would not fly without it. Putting one in my 8A now. > > http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/RudderTrim.aspx > > Robin > > Sent from my iPad > > On Oct 5, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider >> >> Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. >> >> Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? >> >> Cheers Werner >> >> On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >>> >>> Try iflyrv10.com >>> >>> Bob >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Another option, if you don't like the fixed wedge method or don't want to go the servo route, is a spring bias system: http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Rudder_Trim_System.html -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314805#314805 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Yes... not much and sometimes it requires a little "reverse" deflection. It all depends on how your plane is rigged (ultimately) and then of course fuel / passenger loading and X Wind. I rarely (if ever) see it deflected more than 30% of its maximum travel. BTW while I consider all other cockpit trim indicators an absolute safety requirement but having a rudder trim indicator is not a requirement because you can easily overpower the rudder trim with foot action and you have a built in indicator with the slip ball. Your call. The only reason I bring it up is my painter shorted out my Ray Allen position indicator (thanks!) and after about 160 hours of additional flight time I have not really missed the Rudder Trim indication. Again your call. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 9:08 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim Thanks a lot Robin, any idea how much deflection you use normally? Cheers Werner On 05.10.2010 17:49, Robin Marks wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Robin Marks > > Mine works very well. Would not fly without it. Putting one in my 8A now. > > http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/RudderTrim.aspx > > Robin > > Sent from my iPad > > On Oct 5, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider >> >> Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. >> >> Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? >> >> Cheers Werner >> >> On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >>> >>> Try iflyrv10.com >>> >>> Bob >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California coast via RV10? - Follow-up
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
I'm based at Livermore (KLVK). Tie downs are inexpensive; self serve fuel average ($4.50 or so); you need to call Enterprise in advance for a car. Several hotels/motels within a mile. Wx usually is vfr, and if not there's a good ILS and an LPV gps approach. You'll want a car but I recommend taking BART to see San Francisco. KMRY is a bit pricey, but convenient, and both FBO's have rental cars. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314809#314809 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Robin, first time I actually went out to your site.- Nice job, GREAT writ e-up...-and I'm flattered that you used one of the shots as the backgroun d that I took of your plane while we were touring Hearst Castle, Morrow Bay , and Pismo with both our 10's.- Now that was fun!- Flying back to Cali f in the next few days for a visit.- Hope to see you soon on a visit to P ecan. Don McDonald --- On Tue, 10/5/10, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim Date: Tuesday, October 5, 2010, 8:49 AM Mine works very well. Would not fly without it. Putting one in my 8A now. http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/RudderTrim.aspx Robin Sent from my iPad On Oct 5, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. > > Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and ca n tell how good it works? > > Cheers Werner > > On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> -->- RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"<bob.condrey@ baesystems.com> >> >> Try iflyrv10.com >> >> Bob > > le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
In Canada (where I'm originally from) Robertson screws have pretty much dominated over Phillips. IMHO, they are superior in every way. I've always wondered why they are so hard to find in the US... Chris On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 4:26 AM, AirMike wrote: > > The biggest problem is the head of the Phillips driver - rolling out of the > screw head and buggering the screw. > > A few years ago my former plane partner showed me something called the "X" > head screwdriver. They are hard to find, but I located some at Snap-on at > OSH a few years back. (just driver tips) They have 2 or 3 tiny but > distinctive ridges or cuts on the side of the tip that seem to really grip > the Phillips head channels. I did a few hundred screws yesterday - doing my > annual and buggered only 2 screws. > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - finally done > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314760#314760 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Bob I plan to go with the Bias spring system by http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Rudder_Trim_System.html I like the design and I do not have to cut into my rudder. John G. Cumins 40864 Emp complete Wings s/b started -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 5:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? Cheers Werner On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Try iflyrv10.com > > Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
My plan is to attach a hinge to the TE of the rudder and one aileron, driven by model airplane servo's. I don't like the big wedge cutout ..... this is for trim, not flying the airplane!!! One advantage I have is that I can program a single-chip (almost) computer to control the servo. Linn On 10/5/2010 2:54 PM, John Cumins wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cumins" > > Bob > > I plan to go with the Bias spring system by > http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Rudder_Trim_System.html I like the design and I > do not have to cut into my rudder. > > John G. Cumins > 40864 Emp complete Wings s/b started > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider > Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 5:41 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider > > Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. > > Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and > can tell how good it works? > > Cheers Werner > > On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US > SSA)" >> Try iflyrv10.com >> >> Bob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
Chris: Couple of years ago I got this book for my Dad (former machinist). I found it quite interesting. It tells about the history of the screws and the different heads. If I remember correctly, the reason the US has the Phillips drive type head and not the Robertson's is because of Henry Ford. Even then, they knew the square drive worked better, but Phillips had a cheaper screw, and therefore Henry Ford went with it. This book is worth the $10. Get one for some one for xmas and pass it around. Dr Fred One Good Turn: A Natural History of the Screwdriver and the Screw [Paperback] Witold Rybczynski <http://www.amazon.com/Witold-Rybczynski/e/B000AQ1U8A/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1> <http://www.amazon.com/One-Good-Turn-Natural-Screwdriver/dp/0684867303/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1286317043&sr=1-2#> *Witold Rybczynski* (Author) ** Visit Amazon's Witold Rybczynski Page <http://www.amazon.com/Witold-Rybczynski/e/B000AQ1U8A/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1> Find all the books, read about the author, and more. See search results <http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_pop_1?_encoding=UTF8&sort=relevancerank&search-alias=books&field-author=Witold%20Rybczynski> for this author Are you an author? Learn about Author Central <http://authorcentral.amazon.com/gp/landing/ref=ntt_atc_dp_pel_1> (Author) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Just one more reason to use the CS screw with the internal hex head for the forward most 3-4 places on each side of the tunnel cover. Removing/inserting those with an Allen wrench beats Phillips head there anytime. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 3:22 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver Chris: Couple of years ago I got this book for my Dad (former machinist). I found it quite interesting. It tells about the history of the screws and the different heads. If I remember correctly, the reason the US has the Phillips drive type head and not the Robertson's is because of Henry Ford. Even then, they knew the square drive worked better, but Phillips had a cheaper screw, and therefore Henry Ford went with it. This book is worth the $10. Get one for some one for xmas and pass it around. Dr Fred One Good Turn: A Natural History of the Screwdriver and the Screw [Paperback] Witold Rybczynski <http://www.amazon.com/Witold-Rybczynski/e/B000AQ1U8A/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1> <http://www.amazon.com/One-Good-Turn-Natural-Screwdriver/dp/0684867303/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1286317043&sr=1-2#> *Witold Rybczynski* (Author) ** Visit Amazon's Witold Rybczynski Page <http://www.amazon.com/Witold-Rybczynski/e/B000AQ1U8A/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1> Find all the books, read about the author, and more. See search results <http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_pop_1?_encoding=UTF8&sort=relevancerank&search-alias=books&field-author=Witold%20Rybczynski> for this author Are you an author? Learn about Author Central <http://authorcentral.amazon.com/gp/landing/ref=ntt_atc_dp_pel_1> (Author) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Mekler" <amekler(at)metrocast.net>
Subject: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Kelly, Tested the EGT probes with a heat gun. All are reading correctly. Spoke to GAMI. They can't figure out what's going on but will try an even richer injector for 5 and an even leaner injector for 3. To be continued. Alan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 10:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors Certainly a possibility, since they are adjacent cylinders. Does the engine behave like it has a lot of imbalance between cylinders or no? I'd certainly try swapping those two probes. It will tell you if they are reading correctly or are swapped. Something is swapped, because your results are the reverse of what you would expect with those nozzles. Other option, if easier, would be to swap injector nozzles between those two cylinders. It will either get a lot better or a lot worse. On 10/4/2010 9:16 PM, Alan Mekler wrote: > > Kelly, > > Everything pointed to the fuel flow divider and this was sent out and > serviced but despite trying to get cylinder 3 to run leaner and > cylinder 5 to run richer the GAMIs have failed. The only other thought > I had was that maybe the EGT probes were swapped on cylinder 3 and 5??? > > Alan > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > McMullen > *Sent:* Monday, October 04, 2010 8:58 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > Obviously #3 and #5 are your outliers. The question is why. I'd see > what GAMI has to say on the data. Somehow, either the injector on 5 > isn't what it says it is, or the cylinder is getting significantly > more air some how. Is the engine rough when you get all the way to #3 > peaking? > > On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > > > > Kelly, > My flow divider went out to Mattituck and was cleaned and sent back > and I was told it was all set. I flew the plane with the GAMIs > cylinder 5 with the J(richest injector) and cylinder 3 with the A > (leanest injector). > My results are as follows. Cylinder 1 peaked at 11.4 gal cylinder 2 > at > 11.4 cylinder 3 at 10.5 cylinder 4 at 11.1 cylinder 5 at 12.2 and > cylinder 6 at 11.4. > As you can see this is similar to what I had before the fuel divider > was serviced. Any thoughts on what is going on? > Alan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Alan > Mekler > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:35 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Kelly, > I see your point. I'll stay on the ground this weekend. > Alan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Kelly > McMullen > Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 5:20 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: TMXIO-540 and GAMI injectors > > > > > Alan, > Let me politely, but violently disagree with your A&P. Something is > blocking flow in your flow divider. You have proved that. What you and > your A&P can NOT assure is that whatever is blocking the flow won't > move and completely stop the flow. You cannot be assured of stable > fuel flow. That is why you should NOT fly it until it is fixed. I'm > sure Mattituck will make it right, pronto. > Kelly > A&P/IA > EAA Tech Counselor > > On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Alan Mekler > wrote: > > --> > > > > > Tim, > > I was not the builder of my plane. My A&P also an AI has done all > > the trouble shooting. EGT spread is less than 50 degrees when flying > > 100 > degrees > > rich of peak.(that's how I have been flying it) At full throttle > > cylinder > #1 > > runs hotter than cylinder #5. My mechanic called Mattituck because > > they > are > > the Precision Service center closest to us and Mattituck has been > > trouble shooting the problem with us. The engine only has 100 hours > > and is still under warranty. There is no engine roughness unless I > > try flying lean of peak. > > My A&P saw no problem with flying the airplane. I'll know more on > > Monday when we hear from Mattituck but it is most likely we will > > send the unit in for service. > > Alan > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > ** > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > > > CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. > Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 > Get free PC security at http://www.cyberdefender.com > <http://www.cyberdefender.com> > * > > > * CyberDefender has scanned this email for potential threats. Version 2.0 / Build 4.03.29.01 Get free PC security at www.cyberdefender.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
I'm trying to go with Don Orrick's solution as documented here on Tim Olsen's site: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/DonOrrick.html Don's has a very fine flying '10 with many fine features I'd love to copy. When I saw it at Oshkosh several years ago I couldn't figure out what the vernier knob was for but later saw this on Tim's site. I fly a Maule right now and it has a similar setup in the sense that it simply applies a spring to the right rudder pedal control using one of these to control the spring: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/thandledashctrl.php The assumption here is that only right trim is required. Works fine on the Maule and is about as simple as it gets. Don uses a pulley to turn 180 degrees at the firewall. I mocked it up with the T-handle control above and looks like the cable can make the turn with out the pulley. So I've installed a bracket and cable and will try to size and fit a spring to see if I can make it work. If not, the Skunk works control horn approach looks good too. Bill Watson On 10/5/2010 8:41 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and > can tell how good it works? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Oct 05, 2010
Subject: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim
Yes this photo is on my phone, iPad and website. I occasionally get comments about flying over all that water but you and I know we were on the shoreline shooting west. Robin [image: Flying N110EE.JPG] *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don McDonald *Sent:* Tuesday, October 05, 2010 10:48 AM *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim Robin, first time I actually went out to your site. Nice job, GREAT write-up... and I'm flattered that you used one of the shots as the background that I took of your plane while we were touring Hearst Castle, Morrow Bay, and Pismo with both our 10's. Now that was fun! Flying back to Calif in the next few days for a visit. Hope to see you soon on a visit to Pecan. Don McDonald --- On *Tue, 10/5/10, Robin Marks * wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 1st answered 2nd question about rudder trim Date: Tuesday, October 5, 2010, 8:49 AM http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=robin@painttheweb.com> > Mine works very well. Would not fly without it. Putting one in my 8A now. http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/RudderTrim.aspx Robin Sent from my iPad On Oct 5, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Werner Schneider http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=glastar@gmx.net>> wrote: > > > Thanks a lot Bob, exactly what I did need. > > Now looking at rudder trim, anybody has the internal (system) trim and can tell how good it works? > > Cheers Werner > > On 05.10.2010 13:56, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"< bob.condrey@baesystems.com<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bob.condrey@baesystems.com> > >> >> Try iflyrv10.com >> >> Bob > > sp; --> httphttp://forums.matronics.com/" target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> * * * * * * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 05, 2010
I looked at AS&S and Vans for the SCREW 3/8-24X 2 1/2 and came up empty. Any leads where to get the screws would be appreciated. Thx Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Miller John" <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nosewheel Mod > > Thanks, Lew. > > Les, mine look just like Lew's except my big washer is a shiny one. > > grumpy > > On Oct 5, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > >> >> Hey Les, >> >> Here's the link to my previous post : >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=71126&highlight=studs >> >> The hangar guys still love it, paint still looks good! >> >> Later, - Lew >> >> -------- >> non-pilot >> crazy about building >> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 >> Fly off completed ! >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314764#314764 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 05, 2010
www.mcmaster.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 7:39 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nosewheel Mod > > I looked at AS&S and Vans for the SCREW 3/8-24X 2 1/2 and came up empty. > Any leads where to get the screws would be appreciated. > Thx > Pascal > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Miller John" <gengrumpy(at)aol.com> > Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 5:48 AM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nosewheel Mod > >> >> Thanks, Lew. >> >> Les, mine look just like Lew's except my big washer is a shiny one. >> >> grumpy >> >> On Oct 5, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: >> >>> >>> Hey Les, >>> >>> Here's the link to my previous post : >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=71126&highlight=studs >>> >>> The hangar guys still love it, paint still looks good! >>> >>> Later, - Lew >>> >>> -------- >>> non-pilot >>> crazy about building >>> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 >>> Fly off completed ! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314764#314764 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Enderes screwdriver redux - the perfect screwdriver
From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com>
Date: Oct 06, 2010
Another tip for getting out tough screws. Put a little valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver. This has saved me countless times. -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314901#314901 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Nosewheel Mod
Date: Oct 06, 2010
Hey Pascal, I found mine at a local nut and bolt house -- let me know if you want me to send you a couple. Later, - Lew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 10:39 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nosewheel Mod > > I looked at AS&S and Vans for the SCREW 3/8-24X 2 1/2 and came up empty. > Any leads where to get the screws would be appreciated. > Thx > Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: 406mhz ELT Prices
I just went out to look at ELTs and I was shocked by the price of the 406mhz variants. I know this is the "aviation market", but geesh. The US has no 406mhz "requirement", correct? I believe Mexico has extended the 406mhz requirement until Dec. 31, 2011. I know the whole concept of spending a few more dollars for piece of mind, but man. $700-1800+ for an ELT? I'm not sure I'd ever fly outside the U.S. at this point, but who knows, maybe I'll cross the 406mhz path when/if I get to that point and just go 121.5 until then? Maybe at that point the initial markup for a new product will evaporate? Have others just bitten the bullet and gone 406? Seems you could almost add a 406 EPIRB to the 121.5 ELT and get piece of mind cheaper than getting a 406 ELT. -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
Here ya go... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/elt406.php On 10/6/10 4:43 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: > Tim, > Any pricing on this ELT? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their > website. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2010 5:23:45 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices > > > Don't SKIP on installing an ELT, but don't do a 121.5. > These guys are cheaper for the functionality: > > http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html > > It's been a looooooong process getting it all TSO'd in > the US, but if you can spare a few months, I'd wait and > just do this one. I have one on order right now, and > they have them in stock...they just need the TSO paperwork > complete. Once it's done, it should be about the most > affordable unit out there with all the good capabilities. > > Then also, get yourself a PLB or SPOT as a handheld. > You'll find easy ways to talk yourself into the utility > of having something you can hand-carry while you're > over water, mountains, or anything else. It could > be a very handy device. There are many brands...I have > the one here in my write-up: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20071111/index.html > > Nothing too special but it has a nice neoprene > sleeve and all. If you get a nice 406 ELT, just get > a good working cheap PLB. Don't waste the time > and money on a 121sp; -Matt Dralle, > Li-================================== > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
I've got this one on order too - and it's been a verrrrrry long approval process. This was the lowest price one out there but I have no doubt it will go up once it is available. And people like Tim and I are HOPING that we get the original price.... whatever it was. Maybe Tim remembers that price but maybe it's best left unstated. Bill "ready to shoot some more paint" Watson On 10/6/2010 5:43 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: > Tim, > Any pricing on this ELT? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their > website. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2010 5:23:45 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices > > > Don't SKIP on installing an ELT, but don't do a 121.5. > These guys are cheaper for the functionality: > > http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html > > It's been a looooooong process getting it all TSO'd in > the US, but if you can spare a few months, I'd wait and > just do this one. I have one on order right now, and > they have them in stock...they just need the TSO paperwork > complete. Once it's done, it should be about the most > affordable unit out there with all the good capabilities. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Date: Oct 06, 2010
It's been a long time since I looked but I think it was under $600, like $55 0-595 Ish. On Oct 6, 2010, at 4:43 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: > Tim, > Any pricing on this ELT? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their websit e. > > David Clifford > > RV-10 Builder > 65% Done-95% To Go > N849RV (reserved) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2010 5:23:45 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices > > > Don't SKIP on installing an ELT, but don't do a 121.5. > These guys are cheaper for the functionality: > > http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html > > It's been a looooooong process getting it all TSO'd in > the US, but if you can spare a few months, I'd wait and > just do this one. I have one on order right now, and > they have them in stock...they just need the TSO paperwork > complete. Once it's done, it should be about the most > affordable unit out there with all the good capabilities. > > Then also, get yourself a PLB or SPOT as a handheld. > You'll find easy ways to talk yourself into the utility > of having something you can hand-carry while you're > over water, mountains, or anything else. It could > be a very handy device. There are many brands...I have > the one here in my write-up: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20071111/index.html > > Nothing too special but it has a nice neoprene > sleeve and all. If you get a nice 406 ELT, just get > a good working cheap PLB. Don't waste the time > and money on a 121sp; -Matt Dralle, Li-======= ========================== = > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
Date: Oct 06, 2010
link says : Undergoing certification testing, ACK is not accepting orders for the E-04 until ELT certification process is complete. so how does one pre-order one of these things than? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 3:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices > > Here ya go... > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/elt406.php > > On 10/6/10 4:43 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: >> Tim, >> Any pricing on this ELT? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their >> website. >> >> David Clifford >> >> RV-10 Builder >> 65% Done-95% To Go >> N849RV (reserved) >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2010 5:23:45 PM >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices >> >> >> Don't SKIP on installing an ELT, but don't do a 121.5. >> These guys are cheaper for the functionality: >> >> http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html >> >> It's been a looooooong process getting it all TSO'd in >> the US, but if you can spare a few months, I'd wait and >> just do this one. I have one on order right now, and >> they have them in stock...they just need the TSO paperwork >> complete. Once it's done, it should be about the most >> affordable unit out there with all the good capabilities. >> >> Then also, get yourself a PLB or SPOT as a handheld. >> You'll find easy ways to talk yourself into the utility >> of having something you can hand-carry while you're >> over water, mountains, or anything else. It could >> be a very handy device. There are many brands...I have >> the one here in my write-up: >> >> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20071111/index.html >> >> Nothing too special but it has a nice neoprene >> sleeve and all. If you get a nice 406 ELT, just get >> a good working cheap PLB. Don't waste the time >> and money on a 121sp; -Matt Dralle, >> Li-================================== >> >> >> >> * >> >> >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
Date: Oct 06, 2010
Some vendors were preordering for a period. I got mine from Dallas Avionics. Tim On Oct 6, 2010, at 6:10 PM, "Pascal" wrote: > > link says : > Undergoing certification testing, ACK is not accepting orders for the E-04 until ELT certification process is complete. > > > so how does one pre-order one of these things than? > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Sean Stephens" <sean(at)stephensville.com> > Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 3:00 PM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices > >> >> Here ya go... >> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/elt406.php >> >> On 10/6/10 4:43 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote: >>> Tim, >>> Any pricing on this ELT? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their website. >>> >>> David Clifford >>> >>> RV-10 Builder >>> 65% Done-95% To Go >>> N849RV (reserved) >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com> >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2010 5:23:45 PM >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices >>> >>> >>> Don't SKIP on installing an ELT, but don't do a 121.5. >>> These guys are cheaper for the functionality: >>> >>> http://www.ackavionics.com/406%20Page.html >>> >>> It's been a looooooong process getting it all TSO'd in >>> the US, but if you can spare a few months, I'd wait and >>> just do this one. I have one on order right now, and >>> they have them in stock...they just need the TSO paperwork >>> complete. Once it's done, it should be about the most >>> affordable unit out there with all the good capabilities. >>> >>> Then also, get yourself a PLB or SPOT as a handheld. >>> You'll find easy ways to talk yourself into the utility >>> of having something you can hand-carry while you're >>> over water, mountains, or anything else. It could >>> be a very handy device. There are many brands...I have >>> the one here in my write-up: >>> >>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20071111/index.html >>> >>> Nothing too special but it has a nice neoprene >>> sleeve and all. If you get a nice 406 ELT, just get >>> a good working cheap PLB. Don't waste the time >>> and money on a 121sp; -Matt Dralle, Li-================================== >>> >>> >>> >>> * >>> >>> >>> * >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 06, 2010
I think a PLB plus a useless but needed to be legal 121.5 ELT is a good compromise, except that it doesn't cover going to Canada or Mexico or, I guess, the Bahamas. I haven't seen Ack's price list for replacement batteries, but I have seen some others. Some of these Li replacement batteries that I have seen have a price that will make you cry. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314993#314993 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2010
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 406mhz ELT Prices
Now Ben, if you loose your engine, How long does it take to push that littl e button to get a signal out? If you slam into a mountain that's a whole di fferent thing. -The 406 elt gave me a whole- lot warmer feeling while flying over the mountains this summer, (with just one engine), knowing I could just press t he button and someone would know that I needed help and where I was. I hope . -I agree, I will get a spot or PLB for Christmas or before next summer bi g adventures. The point is you don't have to wait for the crash to activate it. -Just my stupid opion. Patrick Thyssen 237hrs, off to ABQ for the weekend ballon fest --- On Wed, 10/6/10, n801bh(at)netzero.com wrote: From: n801bh(at)netzero.com <n801bh(at)netzero.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices Date: Wednesday, October 6, 2010, 6:20 PM Personally I would hold off till they perfect the whole concept... As we al l know there have been several high profile plane crashes in Alaska this su mmer. To the best of my knowledge all of those aircraft were fitted with th e 'new' latest and greatest 406 units. Not one worked as advertised and hel ped in saving anyone. My money is on the PLB's and SPOTs. IMHO.=0Ado not ar chive Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> Subject: RV10-List: 406mhz ELT Prices Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 16:09:22 -0500 -I just went out to look at ELTs and I was shocked by the price of the 406mhz variants. -I know this is the "aviation market", but geesh. -The US has no 406mhz "requirement", correct? -I believe Mexico has extended the 406mhz requirement until Dec. 31, 2011. -I know the whole concept of spending a few more dollars for piece of mind, but man. $700-1800+ for an ELT? I'm not sure I'd ever fly outside the U.S. at this point, but who knows, maybe I'll cross the 406mhz path when/if I get to that point and just go 121.5 until then? -Maybe at that point the initial markup for a new product will evaporate? Have others just bitten the bullet and gone 406? -Seems you could almost add a 406 EPIRB to the 121.5 ELT and get piece of mind cheaper than getting a====================== ========================; --------- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ========= ==============;-------- List Cont ribution Web Site sp;------------------ -----&nb=================== ====== =0A=0A ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program SeeRefinanceRates.com=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. test ing during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 06, 2010
Subject: Re: Ballast?
We keep a bunch of 50# bags of water softener salt in the shop. We use it for ballast and for weighting down wing skins, etc. Plus I have a water softener at home... Salt is pretty cheap, about $5/bag. The plastic bags are more durable than the paper sacks. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 8:44 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy < tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote: > What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. > testing during their Phase I period? > > > TDT > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > > RV-10 N52KS > > APRS KB1URG > > tdt(at)aurora.aero > > 617-500-4812 (office) > > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > [image: smaller flight] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 06, 2010
I bought 75# of lead shot at Cabellas and put it in a plastic bag to keep the lead dust away from inside the plane, but I found that I only needed 50# - I keep it in a plastic bucket shock corded to the rear of the baggage area. That way it is easy to remove when I need to load baggage -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315004#315004 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: 406mhz ELT alternative.
Date: Oct 07, 2010
We've had the 406 here in New Zealand for a couple of years now. In many cases / places, even once you push the alarm, you can still be waiting for a satellite to come over & pick it up. ( a bit like RAIM outages, I think.) I have the mandatory 406mhz ELT, but the Artex model currently has an AD as there have been a number G switch failures. So we now have 6 month compulsory testing. (urgh -more expense!) I also have a couple of the very compact & neat McMurdo fastfinds for personal use. The neoprene cover means it floats. Lovely & small, & I simply put it around my neck if flying over water. But our main device for safety is the Spidertracks. Although it costs a bit on every flight, we have the comfort of knowing that the plane is tracked globally, and that the emergency services are alerted pretty much instantly we press the alarm. Not only that but we also get global text messaging with it via bluetooth! My wife loves it because she can track the plane via the web any time (or I can, if she's flying.) www.spidertracks.com Neil ZK-RVT Now flying again after the 2 wettest months in memory. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Oct 07, 2010
I'm not at that point, but my plan is to 5 gal water jugs @ 40/lbs a piece when full. About as cheap as it gets and I can quickly configure different weights. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315010#315010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Subject: Re: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
When you use something as ballast, you should assume you'll spill it. In that context, water or dirt or sand=good. salt=not so much Bob Brown Independence,OR RV-10 - wiring/FWF -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tsts4 Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 4:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ballast? I'm not at that point, but my plan is to 5 gal water jugs @ 40/lbs a piece when full. About as cheap as it gets and I can quickly configure different weights. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315010#315010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
Whatever you choose, you will need a lot.. I used 80# sand bags. I placed them in garbage bags to prevent spills. When I was done..the sand went into my kids sand box. Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 9:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: Ballast? What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. testing during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) smaller flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2010
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Ballast?
40# water softener salt bags work great, especially if you have a use for them afterward. David Clifford RV-10 Builder 65% Done-95% To Go N849RV (reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> Sent: Thursday, October 7, 2010 7:32:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ballast? I'm not at that point, but my plan is to 5 gal water jugs @ 40/lbs a piece when full. About as cheap as it gets and I can quickly configure different weights. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315010#315010 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2010
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Put the lead shot in a PVC Pipe segment sized for the desired weight and glue on caps. Easy to manage and doesn't spill. Jim C N312F - Flying On Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 12:19 AM, AirMike wrote: > > I bought 75# of lead shot at Cabellas and put it in a plastic bag to keep > the lead dust away from inside the plane, but I found that I only needed 50# > - I keep it in a plastic bucket shock corded to the rear of the baggage > area. That way it is easy to remove when I need to load baggage > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - finally done > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315004#315004 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2010
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
I bought 150 lbs of shot from a local sporting goods store and used that. It's easily moved around and can be secured. Jim Combs - N312F On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 11:44 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy < tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> wrote: > What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. > testing during their Phase I period? > > > TDT > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > > RV-10 N52KS > > APRS KB1URG > > tdt(at)aurora.aero > > 617-500-4812 (office) > > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > [image: smaller flight] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
I think might have answered the wrong question. I thought he was looking for what he used for Max GW testing. Need a lot more than 150lbs for that. So my new answer is..I pack a survival kit with water in it. Weights about 20 lbs and is all the ballast I need to day to day flying... Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ballast? I bought 150 lbs of shot from a local sporting goods store and used that. It's easily moved around and can be secured. Jim Combs - N312F On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 11:44 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. testing during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) Error! Filename not specified. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
From: fixitauto(at)aol.com
WHY NOT JUST USE THOSE GOLD BARS YOU GOT BARRIED IN THE BACK YARD. -----Original Message----- From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2010 10:44 pm Subject: RV10-List: Ballast? What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. tes ting during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
why do all this testing at all? If one builds to the plans and uses the hardware provided, why so much testing? A unique design "homebuilt" would require complete testing. An RV kit built to Vans plans and rigged to Vans plans should perform very closely with the numbers as provided by the kit manufacturer. At least as closely as Cessna did with their marketing driven operating handbooks in times past.. ----- Original Message ----- From: fixitauto(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:22 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ballast? WHY NOT JUST USE THOSE GOLD BARS YOU GOT BARRIED IN THE BACK YARD. -----Original Message----- From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2010 10:44 pm Subject: RV10-List: Ballast? What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. testing during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Oct 07, 2010
Hmmm. Color me ignorant but I thought due diligence dictated that you are supposed to test the aircraft in a variety of weight/CG configurations in actual flight to verify performance. The only way to effectively do that in phase one is with ballast. Regardless of any one else's opinion, I still plan to explore multiple configs because I want to know what the no kidding flight characteristics are before I plop pax and bags in the plane. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315045#315045 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Oct 07, 2010
I do it because I want to understand how my plane flies at all ends of the s pectrum. Knowledge is king...... Sent from my iPhone On Oct 7, 2010, at 2:20 PM, "DLM" wrote: > why do all this testing at all? If one builds to the plans and uses the ha rdware provided, why so much testing? A unique design "homebuilt" would requ ire complete testing. An RV kit built to Vans plans and rigged to Vans plans should perform very closely with the numbers as provided by the kit manufac turer. At least as closely as Cessna did with their marketing driven operati ng handbooks in times past.. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: fixitauto(at)aol.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:22 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ballast? > > WHY NOT JUST USE THOSE GOLD BARS YOU GOT BARRIED IN THE BACK YARD. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2010 10:44 pm > Subject: RV10-List: Ballast? > > What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. tes ting during their Phase I period? > > TDT > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend > RV-10 N52KS > APRS KB1URG > tdt(at)aurora.aero > 617-500-4812 (office) > 617-905-4800 (mobile) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Melchert" <pilotmelch(at)omnav.com>
Subject: Ballast?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
By definition, we test to verify everything was built to spec. I.e. you can=99t know you built it to spec unless you test. Besides, do you really want to find out how it behaves at gross with your family as the ballast? John Melchert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Ballast-really needed for test flight and beyond?
Date: Oct 07, 2010
40 hours for someone like me that has an experimental engine- (so there goes the Vans spec) 25 for a certified engine and prop- not experimental like many have bought from Vans . I need something to do for those 40 hours so why not use that time to do what the flight test period is designed for.. Ballast is probably one of many things we'll need during the test period, a camera is another and lastly, confidence building as we verify everything works right. I'm with those that bringing your family along, without having a plane fully tested, is a big mistake. Read Tim's commentary on someone who chose to take shortcuts along the way and really did not use the flight test period correctly- we can learn from others mistakes, not doing so will leave one vulnerable to do the same thing. Leave the ballast out or not completing different CG test flights, you aren't doing a full test of the plane. Finding out how a aft CG plane feels like with people on board is not the time to discover it. Cessna had a certified plane- all built the same with the same engine and weights. we are all "one offs" some have barrett, some have Lycoming, some have a Chevette some even a corvette engine, my engine is a Aztec engine cleaned up, in all these cases (except for the chevette engine which I doubt would even move a glider) we need to know the take off and landing settings, we need to assure our gizmos we added for doors and such actually work etc.. we are literally testing our version of the Vans plans.. If the FAA didn't think so our repairmans cert could work on any RV-10. From: DLM Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 11:20 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ballast? why do all this testing at all? If one builds to the plans and uses the hardware provided, why so much testing? A unique design "homebuilt" would require complete testing. An RV kit built to Vans plans and rigged to Vans plans should perform very closely with the numbers as provided by the kit manufacturer. At least as closely as Cessna did with their marketing driven operating handbooks in times past.. ----- Original Message ----- From: fixitauto(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:22 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ballast? WHY NOT JUST USE THOSE GOLD BARS YOU GOT BARRIED IN THE BACK YARD. -----Original Message----- From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2010 10:44 pm Subject: RV10-List: Ballast? What have folks used for ballast to do max gross weight and other c.g. testing during their Phase I period? TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend RV-10 N52KS APRS KB1URG tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: why test
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ballast?
From: "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 08, 2010
I used my in-laws :-} -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 N10WD Flying RV-8 N84FD Finished and sold :-{ N40 Sky Manor Airport NJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315091#315091 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: How much paint for a whole '10?
I've started painting using a HVLP 3M/Accuspray gun and Axis turbine to shoot an Imron Elite Polyurethane single stage. It's going well so far. The ailerons and flaps are painted. For those of you that have painted, how many gallons did you use (or would use if painting the entire aircraft in 1 color)? If I were to do it all in one color, I'd roughly estimate 3.5 to 4 gallons at the rate I'm going. Seems like a lot. Lohle's estimate was 2 gallons of white but that is a different system. The Imron tech sheet recoomends 1.8 to 2.2 mils. Unfortunately there's no where to measure my paint thickness on the ailerons and flaps. I know I shot a an access panel at 3.0 mils but I was trying to go extra heavy on it as a test. So I know I'm doing less that 3.0 mils but probably more than 2.2 on the rest of the job so far. Bill "I am curious " Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
Date: Oct 09, 2010
Hey Bill, I THINK it was 5 gal. of white, one of blue, and a quart of red. I'm not positive, cuz I kept running out and sending Wes back to the paint store for more! I was shocked at how much more surface there is on a plane than a car -- not anal enough to do the math, just started shooting. I typically shoot three light coats of final with 20-30 min. between coats. That eliminates runs, fills rivet heads, etc. I don't have a clue as to mils. By the way, I've not had any problems with the paint (acrylic enamel) except for one item. I made the false assumption that the steps that came primed from Van's would have been professionally primed, so I did not strip them and do my process that I did on everything else (self etch primer, epoxy primer, final coat). Now, six months later, my paint has chunked off at the joint of the step and the down leg, because their primer did not bond sufficiently to the steel. So I would recommend taking those down to metal and bring them back up. My process of grinding a shallow in both plexi and glass around all windows and glassing in a half inch of fiberglass over the joint has resulted in a joint that is still as perfect as it was the day I painted it. No cracks after a hot summer. I'm very pleased with that. I'd love to see pictures as you paint -- either post, private email, or maybe I can get doped up enough to make the flight up to visit with Wes. Later, - Lew ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
Date: Oct 09, 2010
I'm using Stewarts system. So far very clean and smooth without major work, I have done one test piece (leg pants) and think I have enough paint on it that it's white and shiny. They told me 2 gallons and truthfully, the paint goes on very thin, 4 coats last being the thickest (1.75 on the fluid nozzle of my AOM K1) so I can see that being a possibility. I mentioned to their excellent support that I thought I needed thicker . They send a sample of what each layer should look like and they told me I would be wasting paint if I applied more than that. In other words, I did it right and it will probably be 2-2.5 gallons for me of all white, but for you the paint may need to be thicker and hence need more. My paint is water based so I add another 25% to the mix, hence it going on so thin. I'll give a paint report in the future for anyone who is a looking for an easy and home safe paint option. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 8:45 PM Subject: RV10-List: How much paint for a whole '10? > > I've started painting using a HVLP 3M/Accuspray gun and Axis turbine to > shoot an Imron Elite Polyurethane single stage. It's going well so far. > The ailerons and flaps are painted. > > For those of you that have painted, how many gallons did you use (or would > use if painting the entire aircraft in 1 color)? > > If I were to do it all in one color, I'd roughly estimate 3.5 to 4 gallons > at the rate I'm going. Seems like a lot. Lohle's estimate was 2 gallons > of white but that is a different system. > > The Imron tech sheet recoomends 1.8 to 2.2 mils. Unfortunately there's > no where to measure my paint thickness on the ailerons and flaps. I know > I shot a an access panel at 3.0 mils but I was trying to go extra heavy on > it as a test. So I know I'm doing less that 3.0 mils but probably more > than 2.2 on the rest of the job so far. > > Bill "I am curious " Watson > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Making the move
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Oct 09, 2010
Today was the big day. Time to move the project to the hanger. Weather was perfect and with 5 good friends and a trailer the event passed without a hitch. Even managed to get the wings in place for fitting of the wingroot fairing. back out there tomorrow to finish the wing installation and getting the tail feathers in place. The end is near. Still a little work to do on the doors, but after some vacation and working on other tasks, I am ready to get back at them. Eric Kallio Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315215#315215 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/in_the_hanger_with_the_wings_hung_895.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/on_the_trailer_900.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
Thanks for that - especially the tip about the step. I've been documenting the paint on my Kitlog site under "Painting A-Z" with pics. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224 You are more than welcome to flight up and visit. Love to see the plane. I think you know I'm at 8NC8 and I'm working here just about every day.... and the weather is beautiful. Bill "prepping the wings" Watson 919-824-4179 On 10/9/2010 8:43 AM, Lew Gallagher wrote: > > Hey Bill, > > I THINK it was 5 gal. of white, one of blue, and a quart of red. I'm > not positive, cuz I kept running out and sending Wes back to the paint > store for more! I was shocked at how much more surface there is on a > plane than a car -- not anal enough to do the math, just started > shooting. I typically shoot three light coats of final with 20-30 > min. between coats. That eliminates runs, fills rivet heads, etc. I > don't have a clue as to mils. > > By the way, I've not had any problems with the paint (acrylic enamel) > except for one item. I made the false assumption that the steps that > came primed from Van's would have been professionally primed, so I did > not strip them and do my process that I did on everything else (self > etch primer, epoxy primer, final coat). Now, six months later, my > paint has chunked off at the joint of the step and the down leg, > because their primer did not bond sufficiently to the steel. So I > would recommend taking those down to metal and bring them back up. > > My process of grinding a shallow in both plexi and glass around all > windows and glassing in a half inch of fiberglass over the joint has > resulted in a joint that is still as perfect as it was the day I > painted it. No cracks after a hot summer. I'm very pleased with that. > > I'd love to see pictures as you paint -- either post, private email, > or maybe I can get doped up enough to make the flight up to visit with > Wes. > > Later, - Lew > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: How much paint for a whole '10?
Seems like all the systems are or can be done differently. This Imron Elite single stage, if applied per the tech sheets, goes on with a cross coat. That's 1 wet coat in one direction immediately (5 secs to a couple of mins) followed by a slightly drier coat in the other. It's not meant to be thinned. It's not meant to be sanded or otherwise touched. No clear coat. Using this Accuspray/Citation/ bottom feed pressure cup combination from AC Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/cite4.php I have a fixed sort of setup. Using the fluid nozzle supplied (1.1) and a fixed air supply (I can only restrict but run it full out), it performs in a pre-determined way. Using the Imron per spec gives a certain paint delivery and minimal overspray. The only real variables are spray pattern and the speed I move the gun. I've played with fluid nozzle size and thinning some of the high fill primer I used. In the end, I'm using the 1.1 and adding 5% thinner per the tech sheet. Looks good so far with a slight amount of orange peel comparable to what I see on many new cars. Will definitely will go thru more paint than I expected but it seems right. Definitely a toxic, not home safe product. With fresh air respirator and ventilated booth, it's fine. Thanks for the feedback. Bill Watson On 10/9/2010 10:20 AM, Pascal wrote: > > I'm using Stewarts system. So far very clean and smooth without major > work, I have done one test piece (leg pants) and think I have enough > paint on it that it's white and shiny. > They told me 2 gallons and truthfully, the paint goes on very thin, 4 > coats last being the thickest (1.75 on the fluid nozzle of my AOM K1) > so I can see that being a possibility. I mentioned to their excellent > support that I thought I needed thicker . They send a sample of what > each layer should look like and they told me I would be wasting paint > if I applied more than that. In other words, I did it right and it > will probably be 2-2.5 gallons for me of all white, but for you the > paint may need to be thicker and hence need more. > My paint is water based so I add another 25% to the mix, hence it > going on so thin. > I'll give a paint report in the future for anyone who is a looking for > an easy and home safe paint option. > Pascal > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: It's 10/10/10 for RV10s...
Which means absolutely nothing but I wanted to be first... and perhaps last. Happy 10/10/10 Bill "seeing the beginning of flight" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Reinforcing Door Holes
Date: Oct 10, 2010
Hi In a week or so my doors will go for painting. Before this happens I'd like too reinforce the screw holes that attach the doors to the hinges. It has been suggested that I use countersunk washers (which I will) held in place with thinned epoxy. I am not sure if this is over kill, but to protect the paint from chipping and the washers from discolouring, I was thinking of putting a layer of thin glass cloth over the washers first. Has anyone done anything like that? Am I being a touch to anal? Inquiring minds need to know. Les #40643 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Reinforcing Door Holes
I'm not there yet, but as a general rule if I use the Tinnerman washers, I paint where the washer goes and then paint the screw and washer separately. Wait until the paint is thoroughly hardened before driving the screws tight. Linn On 10/10/2010 6:41 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > > Hi > > In a week or so my doors will go for painting. Before this happens I'd > like too reinforce the screw holes that attach the doors to the > hinges. It has been suggested that I use countersunk washers (which I > will) held in place with thinned epoxy. > > I am not sure if this is over kill, but to protect the paint from > chipping and the washers from discolouring, I was thinking of putting > a layer of thin glass cloth over the washers first. > > Has anyone done anything like that? Am I being a touch to anal? > > Inquiring minds need to know. > > Les > #40643 > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Reinforcing Door Holes
Date: Oct 10, 2010
Reinforcing Door HolesThinking the hinge on the door side shouldn't be coming off for any reason, I recall I used epoxy and flox to attach the hinge to the door, so the 4 screws are basically holding it in place but technically the strength is in the epoxy holding the hinge and door and the screws are reinforcing the bond. I'm having a hard time thinking how the screws will fit the countersunk with glass over them. Also why don't you just epoxy the washer on after spraying a self etching primer on the washers?, paint them and there should be no reason that they would chip. I have found, since we are using the same primer, that the DTM wash primer has worked better for me with pieces than the 988 has however. Pascal From: Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 3:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: Reinforcing Door Holes Hi In a week or so my doors will go for painting. Before this happens I'd like too reinforce the screw holes that attach the doors to the hinges. It has been suggested that I use countersunk washers (which I will) held in place with thinned epoxy. I am not sure if this is over kill, but to protect the paint from chipping and the washers from discolouring, I was thinking of putting a layer of thin glass cloth over the washers first. Has anyone done anything like that? Am I being a touch to anal? Inquiring minds need to know. Les #40643 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: reinforcing door hinges
Date: Oct 11, 2010
Timely question of reinforcing the door hinges, as that is what I'm doing right now. I feel the standard attachment method is flawed, at least for me. The reason is, I have always taxied airplanes with the door ajar for extra ventilation, especially here in Las Vegas. When I tried to open the door while taxing the Vans RV10 during a demonstration ride many years ago, I was chastised for it because the demo pilot warned me the doors are "weak link". A forward hinged door, like on a Cessna, will take the prop-blast in stride, and the blast will try to move the door in the direction it wants to go. A top hinged door when hit with a prop-blast or gust of wind, will try to open the door, as the in-flight RV10 door failures would indicate.(none of unlatched doors tried to slam shut, that I've heard of). I have a secure strap attachment nutplate, reinforced with an aluminum plate, glassed inside the door halves, to allow me a nylon strap to hang onto while the door is partially open, during taxi.The hinges are being reinforced with an aluminum plate on the outside of the doors, thru which the countersunk screws will pass. The plate is approximately the same size as the indentations (pockets) in the inside of the door, where the hinges mounts. The inside plate, also the same size as the tapered down portion of the pocket, has nutplates mounted for the screws. The hinge is embedded in epoxy/cabosil, that was set with mold release, so the hinge can slide in and out of this channel, for removal. The inside plate is then covered with carbon fiber, up the sides of the hinge pockets,and epoxied on. The remaining depth of the pockets are then filled with micro, so the pockets are now flush with the doors. The result is a significantly stronger hinge attachment, that should survive my desire to abuse my doors while taxing. Who knows, it may be strong enough to survive an in-flight opening? Chris Hukill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oct 14th help - mid california
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Oct 11, 2010
Wondering if any builders out there around Modesto within 2 hours need help with a build or want distractions from a fellow builder. I have a work trip flying out to Modesto on the 13th and leaving on the 15th so I have the afternoon/evening on the 13th and all day on the 14th. If not does anyone know a good hotel to stay at? I may go to Yosemite. I don't want to stay in MOD if I can help it. -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315346#315346 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 11, 2010
Subject: Re: Oct 14th help - mid california
It's supposed to be really nice here on the coast for the rest of the week. It's the opposite direction from Yosemite, though. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Strasnuts wrote: > > Wondering if any builders out there around Modesto within 2 hours need help with a build or want distractions from a fellow builder. I have a work trip flying out to Modesto on the 13th and leaving on the 15th so I have the afternoon/evening on the 13th and all day on the 14th. If not does anyone know a good hotel to stay at? I may go to Yosemite. I don't want to stay in MOD if I can help it. > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315346#315346 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: reinforcing door hinges
Chris, any pictures available? Thanks Werner On 11.10.2010 17:44, Chris Hukill wrote: > > Timely question of reinforcing the door hinges, as that is what I'm > doing right now. I feel the standard attachment method is flawed, at > least for me. The reason is, I have always taxied airplanes with the > door ajar for extra ventilation, especially here in Las Vegas. When I > tried to open the door while taxing the Vans RV10 during a demonstration > ride many years ago, I was chastised for it because the demo pilot > warned me the doors are "weak link". A forward hinged door, like on a > Cessna, will take the prop-blast in stride, and the blast will try to > move the door in the direction it wants to go. A top hinged door when > hit with a prop-blast or gust of wind, will try to open the door, as the > in-flight RV10 door failures would indicate.(none of unlatched doors > tried to slam shut, that I've heard of). I have a secure strap > attachment nutplate, reinforced with an aluminum plate, glassed inside > the door halves, to allow me a nylon strap to hang onto while the door > is partially open, during taxi.The hinges are being reinforced with an > aluminum plate on the outside of the doors, thru which the countersunk > screws will pass. The plate is approximately the same size as the > indentations (pockets) in the inside of the door, where the hinges > mounts. The inside plate, also the same size as the tapered down portion > of the pocket, has nutplates mounted for the screws. The hinge is > embedded in epoxy/cabosil, that was set with mold release, so the hinge > can slide in and out of this channel, for removal. The inside plate is > then covered with carbon fiber, up the sides of the hinge pockets,and > epoxied on. The remaining depth of the pockets are then filled with > micro, so the pockets are now flush with the doors. The result is a > significantly stronger hinge attachment, that should survive my desire > to abuse my doors while taxing. Who knows, it may be strong enough to > survive an in-flight opening? > Chris Hukill > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Barry Marz <blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Cabin Door Gas Struts
Date: Oct 12, 2010
I need to replace my door struts; anyone have a source and a p/n for better one's than Van's. Thanks Barry Barry Marz 18735 Baseleg AVE. FT. Myers, Fl 33917 239-567-2271 blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2010
Subject: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts
I did a pretty thorough search about a year ago for Van's stronger struts. I ended up just getting theirs. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 5:48 AM, Barry Marz wrote: > I need to replace my door struts; anyone have a source and a p/n for better > one's than Van's. Thanks Barry > > Barry Marz > 18735 Baseleg AVE. > FT. Myers, Fl 33917 > 239-567-2271 > blalmarz(at)embarqmail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts
From: "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2010
I haven't researched the exact dimensions but noticed McMaster Carr has a few pages of them. http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-shocks/=98rz96 -------- Cust. #40936 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315422#315422 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: gas strut
Date: Oct 12, 2010
Has anyone tried the 9416K15 or 4175T5 from McMaster? This seems to be the most comparable to the original struts supplied by Vans. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: gas strut
From: Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Oct 13, 2010
You do know that they can easily be re-filled / re-pressurised. We have a local fire extinguisher company where they simply put one in a bottle & pressurise the bottle overnight. Pick up your re-vitalized strut the next day. Cheap, quick & easy. Or else V expensive, slow & V enjoyable if you bring them to New Zealand! My RV-10 ones haven't need to be done, but we have had car struts done. Neil On 13/10/2010, at 7:50 AM, DLM wrote: > Has anyone tried the 9416K15 or 4175T5 from McMaster? This seems to be the most comparable to the original struts supplied by Vans. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: gas strut
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2010
Vans also sells a heavy duty strut. C-1016 HD 600N HEAVY DOOR STRUT $109.00 bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Finish RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315458#315458 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2010
Vans does resell a heavier duty strut than the default one in the finish kit. C-1016 HD 600N HEAVY DOOR STRUT $109.00 bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Finish RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315459#315459 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2010
From: Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com>
Subject: Re: gas strut
Have you guys seen this? http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=60434 Maybe something here can help you out. Carlos in AZ On 10/12/2010 12:30 PM, rleffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "rleffler" > > Vans also sells a heavy duty strut. > > C-1016 HD 600N HEAVY DOOR STRUT $109.00 > > bob > > -------- > Bob Leffler > N410BL - Finish > RV-10 #40684 > http://mykitlog.com/rleffler > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315458#315458 > > -- Carlos Hernandez<carlosh@sec-engr.com> Structural Engineers Company 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Oct 13, 2010
These rock! Drop in replacement for wimpy Vans stock struts. Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP. ~$80 each (plus shipping). Not in stock. Special order from Germany - 4 to 6 weeks delivery. JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014 Phone 513-769-9611 www.JWFtechnologies.com Regards, Jay [quote="Barry"]I need to replace my door struts; anyone have a source and a p/n for better one's than Van's. Thanks Barry > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315565#315565 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts
Date: Oct 13, 2010
What is the pressure required to close the strut? too much would seem to snap the door open and too little would seem to be insufficient to hold it open. The "drop in" dimensions may work but a pressure range would seem to be needed. I was thinking of using the McMaster Carr strut but want to get the pressure right. ----- Original Message ----- From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 8:54 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Door Gas Struts > > These rock! Drop in replacement for wimpy Vans stock struts. > > Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP. ~$80 each (plus shipping). > > Not in stock. Special order from Germany - 4 to 6 weeks delivery. > > JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014 > Phone 513-769-9611 > > www.JWFtechnologies.com > > > Regards, > Jay > > [quote="Barry"]I need to replace my door struts; anyone have a source and > a p/n for better one's than Van's. Thanks Barry > >> [b] > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315565#315565 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Ward" <daveward(at)airward.com>
Subject: Re: reinforcing door hinges
Date: Oct 13, 2010
We at www.airward.com have developed a door hinge reinforcing kit similar to what you described. Take a look. Dave Ward ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: travel tools
About to take the plane form ME to CA and want to put together a tool kit for the trip. I recall a while back there was some discussions about what tools to carry in the plane but I can't find those posts via the matronics search engine. Can anyone help? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301--154 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: fuel valve with position both
I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames Werner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
No flames. Actually, it's a good question. On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and suck air. Linn On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: > > On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is > used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground > (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. > > Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the > reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? > > ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames > > Werner > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Bruce Johnson <bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
IM not sure why, but I miss that option.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________ ____________=0AFrom: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@mat ronics.com=0ASent: Thu, October 14, 2010 1:32:34 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: f chneider =0A=0AI might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try:=0A=0AOn my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/ right fuel valve and it is used most =0Aof the time in the both mode, excep t when on the ground (crossfeed risk) or on =0Alow fuel situations.=0A=0ANo w on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the reason for i t =0A(I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)?=0A=0Aok I get - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List ========0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in - foam?
I remember seeing someone use foam or some other material to stick screws into for painting. I have some blue foam that looks like it will spray debris all over the place. Has anyone used formed successfully? What kind did you use. Bill "fume breathing.... not" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in
- foam? I use a piece of cardboard to hold PK screws (like wood screws) and a piece of Masonite with the holes in it .... like pegboard. Some foams aren't compatible with paint so test before you try and spray screws. Linn On 10/14/2010 6:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I remember seeing someone use foam or some other material to stick > screws into for painting. I have some blue foam that looks like it > will spray debris all over the place. > > Has anyone used formed successfully? What kind did you use. > > Bill "fume breathing.... not" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rick <ricksked(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in
- foam?
Date: Oct 14, 2010
Green foam used for floral arrangments. Rick Sent from my iPhone On Oct 14, 2010, at 3:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I remember seeing someone use foam or some other material to stick > screws into for painting. I have some blue foam that looks like it > will spray debris all over the place. > > Has anyone used formed successfully? What kind did you use. > > Bill "fume breathing.... not" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 14, 2010
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in
- foam? Poke some holes into a cardboard box with an awl and press the screws into the holes. Aircraft Spruce boxes seem to work particularly well... Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 3:28 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > > I remember seeing someone use foam or some other material to stick screws > into for painting. I have some blue foam that looks like it will spray > debris all over the place. > > Has anyone used formed successfully? What kind did you use. > > Bill "fume breathing.... not" Watson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: travel tools
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 14, 2010
2- locking plyers - lg & small 2 - phillips screw drivers - long & short handle 1. shorty mini phillips 1 -file 1 std screwdriver 1 - reaching magnet 1- lithium ion drill 1 - set drill bits 1 - assort of extra screws & nylocks 1 - set of ratcheting wrenches 3/8 7/16 etc 1 - 1/4 " driver set -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315788#315788 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them
in - foam? Thanks all. So many solutions, so dull a mind. I'm sure I have a few ACS boxes lying around. Bill On 10/14/2010 7:33 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave Saylor > > Poke some holes into a cardboard box with an awl and press the screws > into the holes. Aircraft Spruce boxes seem to work particularly well... > > Dave Saylor > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Thanks Linn, I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or uncoordinated flight I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we have a SB concerning the same problem). Will see if we get deeper into that "why". Cheers Werner Glastar HB-YKP flying RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: > > No flames. Actually, it's a good question. > On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in > any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? > On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and > suck air. > Linn > > On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >> >> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >> >> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >> >> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >> >> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >> >> Werner >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
On 10/15/2010 7:31 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Thanks Linn, > > I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing > you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? > Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or > uncoordinated flight > I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we > have a SB concerning the same problem). > > Will see if we get deeper into that "why". Well, you already did!! I'm not sure how much 'usable fuel' you will get ...... the valve is mounted at the top of the tunnel ..... run that station out to the wing tank and see how much fuel you leave in the tank. Better to just take a pass on the 'both' valve. Linn > > Cheers Werner > > Glastar HB-YKP flying > RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping > > > On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> >> No flames. Actually, it's a good question. >> On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in >> any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? >> On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and >> suck air. >> Linn >> >> On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>> >>> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >>> >>> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >>> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >>> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >>> >>> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >>> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >>> >>> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >>> >>> Werner >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them
in - foam?
Date: Oct 15, 2010
Hey Bill, I fooled around with spraying a bunch of screw heads, but here's what I ended up doing. Spraying the heads tends to fill up the slot and painting the heads after installed with a small paint brush really doesn't take that much time, doesn't fill the slot, doesn't "weld" the screw to the body, doesn't use much paint, have overspray, etc. The countersunk parts that receive the screws that got painted without screws in them, caused tears in the paint when screws were tightened in them, so I quickly learned to drill out the paint before seating screws in them. One of my wife's make up "paint" brushes works great -- Later, - Lew "No, Honey, I haven't seen it" Gallagher ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 7:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in - foam? > > Thanks all. So many solutions, so dull a mind. I'm sure I have a few > ACS boxes lying around. > > Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Hello Linn, no, my valve will be on the bottom of the tunnel (Andair Valve with extension) and I have still the head pressure of the tank vents. As I have still time until I'm there I will do a bit of geometry to see where I end. Thanks Werner Glastar HB-YKP flying RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping On 15.10.2010 13:44, Linn Walters wrote: > > On 10/15/2010 7:31 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: >> >> Thanks Linn, >> >> I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing >> you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? >> Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or >> uncoordinated flight >> I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we >> have a SB concerning the same problem). >> >> Will see if we get deeper into that "why". > Well, you already did!! > I'm not sure how much 'usable fuel' you will get ...... the valve is > mounted at the top of the tunnel ..... run that station out to the wing > tank and see how much fuel you leave in the tank. Better to just take a > pass on the 'both' valve. > Linn > >> >> Cheers Werner >> >> Glastar HB-YKP flying >> RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping >> >> >> On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: >>> >>> >>> No flames. Actually, it's a good question. >>> On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in >>> any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? >>> On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and >>> suck air. >>> Linn >>> >>> On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>>> >>>> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >>>> >>>> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >>>> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >>>> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >>>> >>>> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >>>> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >>>> >>>> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >>>> >>>> Werner >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: California Trip - Catalina Island
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
(source AOPA) Catalina Island Conservancy officials know a good thing when they see it, and have extended a previous two-day offer to waive the $20 Catalina Isla nd landing fee for AOPA members during AOPA Aviation Summit. Now, the fee is waived for four days, Nov. 11 through 14, to cover the entire Summit. Response to the original offer was strong, so Conservancy officials decide d to extend the offer. Just show your AOPA membership card once you land on the island, and the fee is waived. Not only that, but you get 20 perce nt off the Wildlands Express shuttle service, normally a $17 charge. Should you happen to buy $10 worth of food at the airport=99s DC-3 Gifts and Grill shop, you=99ll get a free Killer Cookie, so the goo d news just keeps rolling in. For those making the trip to Catalina more frequently, such as California pilots, there is an additional option. Join the new Catalina Aero Club fo r $150 per year, and you=99ll have unlimited free landing privileges . =9CI am thrilled to see the pilots who make Catalina one of their mo st popular destinations want to redefine their commitment to the protectio n and recreation of the Island through their membership in the new Catalin a Aero Club,=9D said Conservancy President Ann Muscat. Other benefits to club members include one annual Freewheeler bike pass an d 50 percent off Conservancy campground fees. Current Conservancy members who would like to upgrade to the Aero Club can do so and extend their membership for $115. Those who are current Leaders hip Circle members can now enjoy unlimited free landings at Airport in the Sky.=94Alton K. Marsh Jeff Darnall Jacksonville, FL 904-234-8718 __i__ *-----o--o--(_)--o--o-----* ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: "kevino" <kevino(at)worldwarehouse.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2010
I have some experience on this topic. During phase 1 testing on my 10 i ran a tank dry over airport and had an engine failure. Was unable to get other tank on line due to air in system. Dead stick landing. no issues. discovered that the vans fuel valve which was left, right and aux was allowing the good tank to still draw air due to being slighty out of the detent position. lousy detent on vans valves. replaced valve with andair. no further issues. not a fan of cheap valves on low wing airplanes. you cannot use a valve with both on low wing. Kevin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315817#315817 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Werner, The head pressure from your Glastar tanks is many times the pressure from the fuel vent. If it weren't, high-wings on "Both" would be running out of gas all the time. Head pressure tries to push fuel back into the empty tank, against vent pressure. That works in a high-wing because you have a couple feet of rise. In a low-wing airplane there isn't enough pressure difference between an empty tank and a partially-full tank to favor the fuller tank. The pump pulls from the path of least resistance, which is the air in the empty tank. Lots of people have tried a "Both"position in RVs and other low wings. It doesn't work out. You'll build a safer plane if you stick with Left-Right-Off. I didn't have much low-wing time before my 10 and while it is something else to do, switching back and forth isn't that big a deal. Plus it really keeps you cognizant of your fuel situation. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 5:36 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Hello Linn, > > no, my valve will be on the bottom of the tunnel (Andair Valve with > extension) and I have still the head pressure of the tank vents. > > As I have still time until I'm there I will do a bit of geometry to see > where I end. > > Thanks > > Werner > > Glastar HB-YKP flying > RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping > > On 15.10.2010 13:44, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> >> On 10/15/2010 7:31 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>> >>> >>> Thanks Linn, >>> >>> I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing >>> you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? >>> Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or >>> uncoordinated flight >>> I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we >>> have a SB concerning the same problem). >>> >>> Will see if we get deeper into that "why". >> >> Well, you already did!! >> I'm not sure how much 'usable fuel' you will get ...... the valve is >> mounted at the top of the tunnel ..... run that station out to the wing >> tank and see how much fuel you leave in the tank. Better to just take a >> pass on the 'both' valve. >> Linn >> >>> >>> Cheers Werner >>> >>> Glastar HB-YKP flying >>> RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping >>> >>> >>> On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> No flames. Actually, it's a good question. >>>> On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in >>>> any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? >>>> On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and >>>> suck air. >>>> Linn >>>> >>>> On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >>>>> >>>>> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >>>>> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >>>>> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >>>>> >>>>> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >>>>> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >>>>> >>>>> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >>>>> >>>>> Werner >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in
- foam?
Date: Oct 15, 2010
One thing I noticed with test samples is that paint dust will accumulate on the boxes. I do "will call" at ACS so no idea what their boxes are like but I have found that using packing tape over the box holes eliminates any future dust issues. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 4:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Painting screws and small parts - what to stick them in - foam? > > Thanks all. So many solutions, so dull a mind. I'm sure I have a few > ACS boxes lying around. > > Bill > > On 10/14/2010 7:33 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dave >> Saylor >> >> Poke some holes into a cardboard box with an awl and press the screws >> into the holes. Aircraft Spruce boxes seem to work particularly well... >> >> Dave Saylor >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Subject: Re: California Trip - Catalina Island
Date: Oct 15, 2010
I did see that over the last couple days...and I can report that someone in t he media somewhere needs to update one minor detail in their facts.....the l anding fee now being charges is $25, not $20. I had no idea until I got the re myself a few days ago. Someone in the pattern landed and didn't even kno w there was a fee (clueless I guess...) but they told him too over unicom th at it was $25. Not sure when it changed but I was surprised when all the em ail news things i started receiving still said $20. Anyway, the place is awesome to land at!!! Clouds all below you and just an island in them popping up to land on! I thought I'd have nooooo problem, with 675+ on the RV-10, but with a combin ation of plenty of traffic in the pattern (visible with ads-b!!!), lots of h eat, and the perception, I didn't descend fast enough or had a slightly tigh t pattern and had to slip off a couple hundred extra feet on final. Other than that, it was a breeze. The takeoff was cool as all heck, too! I t just drops off the cliff below you. Sedona, in comparison, was much less complicated, with all the better surrou nding terrain reference. Beautiful area there too. Almost done with the trip now....heading towards home in a couple hours. The write-up may take a week or two but we got some great photos! Tim On Oct 15, 2010, at 5:51 AM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote: > (source AOPA) > > Catalina Island Conservancy officials know a good thing when they see it, a nd have extended a previous two-day offer to waive the $20 Catalina Island l anding fee for AOPA members during AOPA Aviation Summit. Now, the fee is wai ved for four days, Nov. 11 through 14, to cover the entire Summit. > Response to the original offer was strong, so Conservancy officials decide d to extend the offer. Just show your AOPA membership card once you land on t he island, and the fee is waived. Not only that, but you get 20 percent off t he Wildlands Express shuttle service, normally a $17 charge. > Should you happen to buy $10 worth of food at the airport=99s DC-3 G ifts and Grill shop, you=99ll get a free Killer Cookie, so the good ne ws just keeps rolling in. > For those making the trip to Catalina more frequently, such as California p ilots, there is an additional option. Join the new Catalina Aero Club for $1 50 per year, and you=99ll have unlimited free landing privileges. > =9CI am thrilled to see the pilots who make Catalina one of their mo st popular destinations want to redefine their commitment to the protection a nd recreation of the Island through their membership in the new Catalina Aer o Club,=9D said Conservancy President Ann Muscat. > Other benefits to club members include one annual Freewheeler bike pass an d 50 percent off Conservancy campground fees. > Current Conservancy members who would like to upgrade to the Aero Club can do so and extend their membership for $115. Those who are current Leadershi p Circle members can now enjoy unlimited free landings at Airport in the Sky .=94Alton K. Marsh > > > Jeff Darnall > Jacksonville, FL > 904-234-8718 > __i__ > *-----o--o--(_)--o--o-----* > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Date: Oct 15, 2010
Also, a side "benefit" to the low wing's limitation against "both" position is that it reinforces better fuel management practices....and allows you to always know the remaining fuel. Anybody notice that the rv-10's with presumably nearly 100% equipage of fuel computers and flow meters, has basically never had an off-airport landing (that we know of) due to poor fuel planning? Let's keep it that way....we have the tools, if we use them. Tim On Oct 15, 2010, at 4:31 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Thanks Linn, > > I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or uncoordinated flight > I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we have a SB concerning the same problem). > > Will see if we get deeper into that "why". > > Cheers Werner > > Glastar HB-YKP flying > RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping > > > On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> No flames. Actually, it's a good question. >> On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in >> any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? >> On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and >> suck air. >> Linn >> >> On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>> >>> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >>> >>> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >>> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >>> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >>> >>> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >>> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >>> >>> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >>> >>> Werner >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: fuel valve with position both
Date: Oct 15, 2010
It is possible to have a "both" fuel system, but in low wing planes as others have said it's difficult because the fuel is at/near/below the engine. While at rest gravity would naturally keep the tank levels balanced, in the air it's a different story. It's not just about the tanks being pressurized/vented, but for a "both" selection they need to be pressurized equally. You'll notice that in most high wing airplanes with a both selection, the vents of the two tanks are tied together...in a low wing plane if you didn't have the two tank vents tied together, then one tank will likely have a slightly higher pressure than the other...which mean fuel will be routed from that particular tank and possibly run empty before sucking gas out of the other tank; and you could have an engine sucking air with one wing tank being completely full. It could also cause fuel from one tank to be routed to the other and then overboard. Even though the tanks are vented and "pressurized", it's likely not enough to cause sufficient fuel flow to the engine without and electric or fuel driven pump (which you can get by without on many high wing planes). Remember, we're as much "sucking" the fuel from the tanks as we are pushing when the level of the tanks is below the engine. Anyway, There are ways to do it but none as simple as just doing it the way Van's says. There have been various people who've re-invented the wheel on van's fuel system, but out of the 7000+ flying RV's, the standard way of doing it has been proven as reliable and functional. My 2 cents as usual! Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 10:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel valve with position both Also, a side "benefit" to the low wing's limitation against "both" position is that it reinforces better fuel management practices....and allows you to always know the remaining fuel. Anybody notice that the rv-10's with presumably nearly 100% equipage of fuel computers and flow meters, has basically never had an off-airport landing (that we know of) due to poor fuel planning? Let's keep it that way....we have the tools, if we use them. Tim On Oct 15, 2010, at 4:31 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Thanks Linn, > > I agree, on a high wing the fuel pressure is higher, but on a low wing you still pressurize the tanks as well so you should be fine? Unporting would only be possible on a very low fuel level or uncoordinated flight > I plan to add low fuel warnings as well (have them in my Star as we have a SB concerning the same problem). > > Will see if we get deeper into that "why". > > Cheers Werner > > Glastar HB-YKP flying > RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping > > > On 14.10.2010 22:45, Linn Walters wrote: >> >> No flames. Actually, it's a good question. >> On the high wing, the valve is always under positive fuel pressure (in >> any attitude but inverted .... ;-) ) due to the head .... 5' maybe? >> On the low wing, it would be possible to unport one tank feed ..... and >> suck air. >> Linn >> >> On 10/14/2010 4:32 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: >>> >>> I might open Pandoras box here but it's not about primer so lets try: >>> >>> On my high wing Glastar I have a left/both/right fuel valve and it is >>> used most of the time in the both mode, except when on the ground >>> (crossfeed risk) or on low fuel situations. >>> >>> Now on low wing airplanes I see the left/right only, what is the >>> reason for it (I guess there must be a technical reason behind that)? >>> >>> ok I get my firesuite out before I get the flames >>> >>> Werner >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: "kevino" <kevino(at)worldwarehouse.com>
Date: Oct 15, 2010
One other point. I dont have it with me but believe the manual on the air flow performance fuel pump has a specific warning on introducing air into the system could cause an air lock. Kevin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315860#315860 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Melchert" <pilotmelch(at)omnav.com>
Subject: fuel valve with position both
Date: Oct 15, 2010
This can be simply explained with an analogy. Picture yourself with two glasses of beer above your head, with a tube coming out the bottom of both running to a Y and a single tube then running into your mouth. Once you start sucking a little, you'd get some beer, and wouldn't need to suck much more after that (or at all). Essentially both glasses are gravity feeding the single tube, and until they both run empty you'll get a constant flow of beer. Now do the same thing, but put the glasses down to your knees. Nothing is automatically filling the single tube after the Y. In fact, gravity will attempt to equalize the amount in each glass so their levels remain the same, but gravity can't fill the tube running up to your mouth higher than the top level in the glasses down at your knees. You must suck, and continue to do so to get beer. The further from your mouth, the harder you'll need to suck. If you get ahead of gravity's ability to even the glasses, and you empty one of them ahead of the other, your required sucking will suck air (likely a mix of mostly air and some beer). Either way, your required constant flow of beer has been interrupted and that's bad. John Melchert N316PT RV-10 (building, QB fuse) Eden Prairie, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
I've not played with the combination of beer and hoses since college -- but in my experience, when you run beer through a funnel and tube, you can get all sorts of vapor lock problems with excessive foaming, no matter if you use gravity or suck it uphill. Perhaps you can avoid these problems by only using fuel that doesn't contain alcohol? :-) Chris On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 11:04 AM, John Melchert wrote: > > This can be simply explained with an analogy. > > Picture yourself with two glasses of beer above your head, with a tube > coming out the bottom of both running to a Y and a single tube then running > into your mouth. Once you start sucking a little, you'd get some beer, and > wouldn't need to suck much more after that (or at all). Essentially both > glasses are gravity feeding the single tube, and until they both run empty > you'll get a constant flow of beer. > > Now do the same thing, but put the glasses down to your knees. Nothing is > automatically filling the single tube after the Y. In fact, gravity will > attempt to equalize the amount in each glass so their levels remain the > same, but gravity can't fill the tube running up to your mouth higher than > the top level in the glasses down at your knees. You must suck, and > continue to do so to get beer. The further from your mouth, the harder > you'll need to suck. If you get ahead of gravity's ability to even the > glasses, and you empty one of them ahead of the other, your required > sucking > will suck air (likely a mix of mostly air and some beer). Either way, your > required constant flow of beer has been interrupted and that's bad. > > John Melchert > N316PT RV-10 (building, QB fuse) > Eden Prairie, MN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Many thanks for the many and valuable comments. A both position would work, if each tank would have a single fuel pump before the fuel valve in the cases described, this would grant a fuel flow secured after unporting and switching valve. I agree left right demands a constant fuel management (which puts more load in difficult situation) but makes a bigger awareness of fuel remaining. A lot of fuel (or beer) for thoughts and good technical arguments. Thanks again to the group for filling that gap of my missing knowledge. I probably will go the Andair fuel pump way as it looks to be the better technology with much less connections then the ES Airflow one. br Werner Glastar HB-YKP flying RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping On 15.10.2010 18:24, Stein Bruch wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > It is possible to have a "both" fuel system, but in low wing planes as > others have said it's difficult because the fuel is at/near/below the > engine. While at rest gravity would naturally keep the tank levels > balanced, in the air it's a different story. It's not just about the tanks > being pressurized/vented, but for a "both" selection they need to be > pressurized equally. You'll notice that in most high wing airplanes with a > both selection, the vents of the two tanks are tied together...in a low wing > plane if you didn't have the two tank vents tied together, then one tank > will likely have a slightly higher pressure than the other...which mean fuel > will be routed from that particular tank and possibly run empty before > sucking gas out of the other tank; and you could have an engine sucking air > with one wing tank being completely full. It could also cause fuel from one > tank to be routed to the other and then overboard. Even though the tanks > are vented and "pressurized", it's likely not enough to cause sufficient > fuel flow to the engine without and electric or fuel driven pump (which you > can get by without on many high wing planes). Remember, we're as much > "sucking" the fuel from the tanks as we are pushing when the level of the > tanks is below the engine. > > Anyway, There are ways to do it but none as simple as just doing it the way > Van's says. There have been various people who've re-invented the wheel on > van's fuel system, but out of the 7000+ flying RV's, the standard way of > doing it has been proven as reliable and functional. > > My 2 cents as usual! > > Cheers, > > Stein > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
On 10/15/2010 4:55 PM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > Many thanks for the many and valuable comments. You're welcome. It's why we're here. > A both position would work, if each tank would have a single fuel pump > before the fuel valve in the cases described, this would grant a fuel > flow secured after unporting and switching valve. I see what you mean. Having a pump (actually two) in the wing root at the lowest point would solve the problem that didn't exist before the 'both' position was selected. However, now we've added two pumps (weight), wire (weight) and switches (more weight) to solve a problem that really shouldn't exist. > > I agree left right demands a constant fuel management (which puts more > load in difficult situation) but makes a bigger awareness of fuel > remaining. As I see it, switching tanks every 15 minutes to 1/2 hour is a whole lot safer than turning on the pumps. However, if you'll forget to switch tanks ...... maybe the switches will end up in the same category. From experience, I can tell you that running a tank dry on takeoff (doing T&Gs) in the pattern will get your attention. That was when I was a baby pilot. Another educational experience. > > A lot of fuel (or beer) for thoughts and good technical arguments. I noticed that there are a lot of beer experts on this list. :-D > Thanks again to the group for filling that gap of my missing knowledge. If we really did. > I probably will go the Andair fuel pump way as it looks to be the > better technology with much less connections then the ES Airflow one. Not sure what that means. :-P Best of luck. Linn > > br > > Werner > > Glastar HB-YKP flying > RV-10 #41122 waiting for shipping > > On 15.10.2010 18:24, Stein Bruch wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" >> >> It is possible to have a "both" fuel system, but in low wing planes as >> others have said it's difficult because the fuel is at/near/below the >> engine. While at rest gravity would naturally keep the tank levels >> balanced, in the air it's a different story. It's not just about the >> tanks >> being pressurized/vented, but for a "both" selection they need to be >> pressurized equally. You'll notice that in most high wing airplanes >> with a >> both selection, the vents of the two tanks are tied together...in a >> low wing >> plane if you didn't have the two tank vents tied together, then one tank >> will likely have a slightly higher pressure than the other...which >> mean fuel >> will be routed from that particular tank and possibly run empty before >> sucking gas out of the other tank; and you could have an engine >> sucking air >> with one wing tank being completely full. It could also cause fuel >> from one >> tank to be routed to the other and then overboard. Even though the >> tanks >> are vented and "pressurized", it's likely not enough to cause sufficient >> fuel flow to the engine without and electric or fuel driven pump >> (which you >> can get by without on many high wing planes). Remember, we're as much >> "sucking" the fuel from the tanks as we are pushing when the level of >> the >> tanks is below the engine. >> >> Anyway, There are ways to do it but none as simple as just doing it >> the way >> Van's says. There have been various people who've re-invented the >> wheel on >> van's fuel system, but out of the 7000+ flying RV's, the standard way of >> doing it has been proven as reliable and functional. >> >> My 2 cents as usual! >> >> Cheers, >> >> Stein >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Totally Off Topic - quadrotor
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Oct 16, 2010
Ron, I've been playing with those a while back, when you had to hack out gyro's from a gyroscopic mouse... You'll find some excellent information on the rcuniverse.com forums. Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315964#315964 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: Screws in Fiberglass
Date: Oct 16, 2010
I need to mount a few things to the fiberglass top using screws (lights, seatbelt holder, etc). What's the best way to do this? Thanks! Wayne N767W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Screws in Fiberglass
I have no idea what the best way is. ;-) What I do is embed a nut in milled fiber with the screw inserted. coat the screw threads with petroleum jelly so you can get the screw out!!! I do not like PK screws as they loosen up and if you insert/remove them enough the hole will get bigger. Linn On 10/16/2010 4:05 PM, Wayne Williams wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams" > > I need to mount a few things to the fiberglass top using screws (lights, > seatbelt holder, etc). What's the best way to do this? Thanks! > > Wayne > N767W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Screws in Fiberglass
I've been using Nutserts pretty successfully. They work in aluminum too but only recommended there instead of a sheet metal screw (e.g. gear leg fairings into fuselage) http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/nutserts.php the AAT916 expendable nutsert tool works fine for the number you'll need to do: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nutserttools.php I haven't used them in an operational aircraft yet Bill "wondering why everyone isn't using PreKote" Watson On 10/16/2010 4:05 PM, Wayne Williams wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Williams" > > I need to mount a few things to the fiberglass top using screws (lights, > seatbelt holder, etc). What's the best way to do this? Thanks! > > Wayne > N767W > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Screws in Fiberglass
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 16, 2010
Hey Wayne, It's not slick, but works. For the seat belt and headphone holder, I used these T nuts from Lowes or Home Depot: http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=t+nut Drilled for the screw insert first, drilled tiny holes for the "ears" that keep it from turning, then glassed them in. Cover with headliner and you can't tell they're there. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Fly off completed ! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315977#315977 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Screws in Fiberglass
Date: Oct 17, 2010
Rivnuts worked well for me on the cabin top. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/rivnuts.php cheers, Ron VH-XRM flying in Oz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 7:05 AM Subject: RV10-List: Screws in Fiberglass > > I need to mount a few things to the fiberglass top using screws (lights, > seatbelt holder, etc). What's the best way to do this? Thanks! > > Wayne > N767W > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: screws in fiberglass
Date: Oct 16, 2010
I held my custom overhead console with eight to ten SS screws that went int o SS threaded inserts which I epoxied into the cabin top. If you have acces s to a sandblaster to etch the insert surface even better. Here is only a link for showing what I am referring to: http://www.woodcra ft.com/Product/2001048/1708/38-24-Brass-Threaded-Inserts-(10).aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2010
Subject: Re: screws in fiberglass
There are lots of inserts you can use to put threads into a cored structure. If you look around (or call me), you can get specialty inserts made just for bonding into panels. For example, here's a link: http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/viewImage.asp?item=NAS1832-3-3&folder=basic T-nuts and other inserts work almost as well for a few screws here and there. They take a little more fiddling to get them into the core and secure, but they cost pennies as opposed to dollars for the inserts above. Make sure the inserts are securely attached to the core and to the skin, and test how well they attached by giving the insert a good tug. Keep in mind that inserts are for non-structural applications like consoles, lights, belt and headset racks, etc. Anything that takes a load like shoulder belts, cargo tie downs, etc., need a much stronger, tested, engineered solution. My overhead light console is attached with five very small sheet-metal screws. It comes off very infrequently so I'm not too worried about wearing out the holes. I could always push a little epoxy into the hole if it stripped. FWIW, I tried to get Vans to sell my overhead console, but they were worried about the tiny holes in the inner skin of the cabin top. So keep in mind that Vans isn't going to be happy about hearing that you put holes in the cabin top. Personally, I'm not worried about what I did to mine. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 4:43 PM, John Gonzalez wrote: > I held my custom overhead console with eight to ten SS screws that went into > SS threaded inserts which I epoxied into the cabin top. If you have access > to a sandblaster to etch the insert surface even better. > > Here is only a link for showing what I am referring to: > http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001048/1708/38-24-Brass-Threaded-Inserts-(10).aspx > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Copperstate RV10 Nest 2010
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 18, 2010
Couldn't pull off all three days, but the nest should be set up around mid-day on Friday for a place to crash and relax. Lunch will be noonish on Saturday. Hope to see lots of new and old friends. Myron 602 421 2868 -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316169#316169 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 18, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: A&P
Be certain to download and study the Copperstate notam. There will be temporary tower, and at least one frequency has changed from last year. On 10/18/2010 8:54 AM, Don McDonald wrote: > My congrats also Jesse.... hey, I could e some work done... how's your > schedule? (--; > Kelly, should be flying in there in the next day or so.... getting out > of Chino is the current issue... overcast and low clouds. I guess > getting that IFR classification might be worthwhile. > Don McDonald > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Wendell" <rwendell@hydro-splash.com>
Subject: Re: screws in fiberglass
Date: Oct 18, 2010
Dave, Can you send me picures of how you attached your overhead console? What does yours weigh? I just glassed mine in, but may want to reinforce with screws. Thanks Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 5:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: screws in fiberglass > > > There are lots of inserts you can use to put threads into a cored > structure. If you look around (or call me), you can get specialty > inserts made just for bonding into panels. For example, here's a > link: > > http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/viewImage.asp?item=NAS1832-3-3&folder=basic > > T-nuts and other inserts work almost as well for a few screws here and > there. They take a little more fiddling to get them into the core and > secure, but they cost pennies as opposed to dollars for the inserts > above. Make sure the inserts are securely attached to the core and to > the skin, and test how well they attached by giving the insert a good > tug. > > Keep in mind that inserts are for non-structural applications like > consoles, lights, belt and headset racks, etc. Anything that takes a > load like shoulder belts, cargo tie downs, etc., need a much stronger, > tested, engineered solution. > > My overhead light console is attached with five very small sheet-metal > screws. It comes off very infrequently so I'm not too worried about > wearing out the holes. I could always push a little epoxy into the > hole if it stripped. > > FWIW, I tried to get Vans to sell my overhead console, but they were > worried about the tiny holes in the inner skin of the cabin top. So > keep in mind that Vans isn't going to be happy about hearing that you > put holes in the cabin top. Personally, I'm not worried about what I > did to mine. > > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA 95076 > 831-722-9141 Shop > 831-750-0284 Cell > > > On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 4:43 PM, John Gonzalez > wrote: >> I held my custom overhead console with eight to ten SS screws that went >> into >> SS threaded inserts which I epoxied into the cabin top. If you have >> access >> to a sandblaster to etch the insert surface even better. >> >> Here is only a link for showing what I am referring to: >> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001048/1708/38-24-Brass-Threaded-Inserts-(10).aspx >> >> >> >> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 13:33:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 18, 2010
Subject: Re: screws in fiberglass
Ross, Our console is basically a small pod that closes out the upper strut attachment and gives you some room for lights, switches, etc. Here's a picture: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm It's custom made for the 10 so it fits really well. I think it weighs 2 or 3 ounces. If you glassed yours to the cabin I wouldn't worry about adding any screws. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:19 AM, Ross Wendell <rwendell@hydro-splash.com> wrote: > > Dave, > > Can you send me picures of how you attached your overhead console? What > does yours weigh? I just glassed mine in, but may want to reinforce with > screws. > > > Thanks > > Ross > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Saylor" > > To: > Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 5:08 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: screws in fiberglass > > >> >> >> There are lots of inserts you can use to put threads into a cored >> structure. If you look around (or call me), you can get specialty >> inserts made just for bonding into panels. For example, here's a >> link: >> >> >> http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/viewImage.asp?item=NAS1832-3-3&folder=basic >> >> T-nuts and other inserts work almost as well for a few screws here and >> there. They take a little more fiddling to get them into the core and >> secure, but they cost pennies as opposed to dollars for the inserts >> above. Make sure the inserts are securely attached to the core and to >> the skin, and test how well they attached by giving the insert a good >> tug. >> >> Keep in mind that inserts are for non-structural applications like >> consoles, lights, belt and headset racks, etc. Anything that takes a >> load like shoulder belts, cargo tie downs, etc., need a much stronger, >> tested, engineered solution. >> >> My overhead light console is attached with five very small sheet-metal >> screws. It comes off very infrequently so I'm not too worried about >> wearing out the holes. I could always push a little epoxy into the >> hole if it stripped. >> >> FWIW, I tried to get Vans to sell my overhead console, but they were >> worried about the tiny holes in the inner skin of the cabin top. So >> keep in mind that Vans isn't going to be happy about hearing that you >> put holes in the cabin top. Personally, I'm not worried about what I >> did to mine. >> >> >> Dave Saylor >> AirCrafters >> 140 Aviation Way >> Watsonville, CA 95076 >> 831-722-9141 Shop >> 831-750-0284 Cell >> >> >> >> On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 4:43 PM, John Gonzalez >> wrote: >>> >>> I held my custom overhead console with eight to ten SS screws that went >>> into >>> SS threaded inserts which I epoxied into the cabin top. If you have >>> access >>> to a sandblaster to etch the insert surface even better. >>> >>> Here is only a link for showing what I am referring to: >>> >>> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001048/1708/38-24-Brass-Threaded-Inserts-(10).aspx >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 13:33:00 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-10 breaks record
Date: Oct 18, 2010
John is local to me. He is a great and driven person who has helped me with my RV-10 when I first got started. http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Subject: Re: screws in fiberglass
Date: Oct 18, 2010
Thanks everyone for the great ideas. I'm surprised of so many different ideas. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Hello, after having read so much about the Weld-On 10 stories and the crazing etc I took the step last weekend and installed the windshield with the help of two friends. I guess the result is very satisfying no crazing. I put a write up and photos on my website which describes what I did. I just wanted to share my experience. It was quite easy to do. And I hope that crazing will now develop in the future. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316296#316296 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1035_580.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Congratulations on the good installation and the fine "write-up". I think that you have established the protocol for window installation. If others can replicate your success it would be awesome. I had crazing at two locations with the suggested Vans technique. Fortunately they have not "run" in the one year that the plane has been flying. Thanks for sharing your experience in the finest Matronics tradition. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316330#316330 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
I think that window installation with Weldon without crazing is the norm and has been done for several years. Good write up. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 19, 2010, at 10:42 AM, "AirMike" wrote: > > Congratulations on the good installation and the fine "write-up". I think that you have established the protocol for window installation. If others can replicate your success it would be awesome. I had crazing at two locations with the suggested Vans technique. Fortunately they have not "run" in the one year that the plane has been flying. Thanks for sharing your experience in the finest Matronics tradition. > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - finally done > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316330#316330 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Subject: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Whats the link to the write up. John G. Cumins 40864 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10 I think that window installation with Weldon without crazing is the norm and has been done for several years. Good write up. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 19, 2010, at 10:42 AM, "AirMike" wrote: > > Congratulations on the good installation and the fine "write-up". I think that you have established the protocol for window installation. If others can replicate your success it would be awesome. I had crazing at two locations with the suggested Vans technique. Fortunately they have not "run" in the one year that the plane has been flying. Thanks for sharing your experience in the finest Matronics tradition. > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - finally done > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316330#316330 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: gas strut
Date: Oct 19, 2010
So, after all the e-mails about replacement door struts, has anyone found one that replaces Van's heavy duty one? Where do you buy, what is the part #, and what is the price? Lots of possibilities were listed but no definite conclusions from someone who has actually done it and it worked as advertised. Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: gas strut Has anyone tried the 9416K15 or 4175T5 from McMaster? This seems to be the most comparable to the original struts supplied by Vans. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Here: http://www.wellenzohn.net/HB-YNN/Construction_Blog/Eintrage/2010/10/19_Gluei ng_the_windshield.html Sent from my iPhone On Oct 19, 2010, at 2:08 PM, "John Cumins" wrote: > > Whats the link to the write up. > > John G. Cumins > 40864 Wings > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 11:46 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-O n > 10 > > > I think that window installation with Weldon without crazing is the norm a nd > has been done for several years. Good write up. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 19, 2010, at 10:42 AM, "AirMike" wrote: > >> >> Congratulations on the good installation and the fine "write-up". I think > that you have established the protocol for window installation. If others > can replicate your success it would be awesome. I had crazing at two > locations with the suggested Vans technique. Fortunately they have not "ru n" > in the one year that the plane has been flying. Thanks for sharing your > experience in the finest Matronics tradition. >> >> -------- >> OSH '10 or Bust >> Q/B - finally done >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316330#316330 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where the F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the forward longeron attaches. What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Date: Oct 19, 2010
My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that wasn't the answer you were looking for. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where the F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the forward longeron attaches. What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? Thanks, -Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Date: Oct 19, 2010
I used 1/2" and/or 3/4" steel bar material in areas like this.... resulting in very sore fingers for a few days afterwards. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Oct 19, 2010, at 1:44 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across > two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The > attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right > corner where the F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the > F-1001J where the forward longeron attaches. > > What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special > bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these > areas? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago and never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still around. -Sean #40303 On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that wasn't > the answer you were looking for. > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across two > areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached > pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where the > F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the forward > longeron attaches. > > What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special bucking bar > recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Nope, my tungsten bar is relatively thin, but unmodified. I also have some thinner steel bars, but don't recall using them there. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 5:38 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago and never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still around. -Sean #40303 On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that > wasn't the answer you were looking for. > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean > Stephens > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across > two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The > attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right > corner where the > F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the > forward longeron attaches. > > What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special > bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Bob; You just had to rub that in!!, but actually it's the perfect answer. The bar is small and tough, but it's expensive too. It does work very well for a person just starting who could benefit from it throughout the build. Sean; I used thin plates (1/2 in or so) initially and grinded down one of my bucking bars to fit after not being able to take the abuse of the riveting on the plates. You'll have many more small areas that will need tight riveting. Consider cherry rivets or pop rivets- which BTW I rarely did until the RV-12 came out and I figured the whole plane is pop rivets so it can't be that bad. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 2:14 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that wasn't > the answer you were looking for. > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across two > areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached > pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where the > F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the forward > longeron attaches. > > What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special bucking > bar > recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Did you purchase the bar or make it? If you bought it, do you have a reference link? Thanks, -Sean #40303 On 10/19/10 5:20 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > Nope, my tungsten bar is relatively thin, but unmodified. I also have some > thinner steel bars, but don't recall using them there. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 5:38 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an > RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago and > never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still around. > > -Sean #40303 > > On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >> >> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >> wasn't the answer you were looking for. >> >> Bob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean >> Stephens >> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >> >> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across >> two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The >> attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right >> corner where the >> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >> forward longeron attaches. >> >> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >> bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Here's a less expensive tungsten choice....http://www.tungsten-bucking-bar.com/prices.html Carlos in AZ On 10/19/2010 3:31 PM, Pascal wrote: > > Bob; > You just had to rub that in!!, but actually it's the perfect answer. > The bar is small and tough, but it's expensive too. It does work very > well for a person just starting who could benefit from it throughout > the build. > > Sean; > I used thin plates (1/2 in or so) initially and grinded down one of > my bucking bars to fit after not being able to take the abuse of the > riveting on the plates. > > You'll have many more small areas that will need tight riveting. > Consider cherry rivets or pop rivets- which BTW I rarely did until the > RV-12 came out and I figured the whole plane is pop rivets so it can't > be that bad. > > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 2:14 PM > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > >> >> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >> wasn't >> the answer you were looking for. >> >> Bob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens >> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >> >> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across two >> areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached >> pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where >> the >> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >> forward >> longeron attaches. >> >> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >> bucking bar >> recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > -- Carlos Hernandez<carlosh@sec-engr.com> Structural Engineers Company 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
From: effectus(at)rogers.com
Date: Oct 19, 2010
You can get them from Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools Dave ------Original Message------ From: Sean Stephens Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ReplyTo: rv10-list Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin Sent: Oct 19, 2010 6:38 PM Did you purchase the bar or make it? If you bought it, do you have a reference link? Thanks, -Sean #40303 On 10/19/10 5:20 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > Nope, my tungsten bar is relatively thin, but unmodified. I also have some > thinner steel bars, but don't recall using them there. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 5:38 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an > RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago and > never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still around. > > -Sean #40303 > > On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >> >> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >> wasn't the answer you were looking for. >> >> Bob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean >> Stephens >> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >> >> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across >> two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The >> attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right >> corner where the >> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >> forward longeron attaches. >> >> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >> bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Stein sells a tungsten bar. Make sure you're sitting down when you see the price. On Oct 19, 2010, at 3:38 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > > Did you purchase the bar or make it? If you bought it, do you have > a reference link? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > On 10/19/10 5:20 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >> >> Nope, my tungsten bar is relatively thin, but unmodified. I also >> have some >> thinner steel bars, but don't recall using them there. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean >> Stephens >> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 5:38 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens> > >> >> Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately >> an >> RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago >> and >> never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still >> around. >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >>> >>> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >>> wasn't the answer you were looking for. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean >>> Stephens >>> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >>> >>> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come >>> across >>> two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The >>> attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right >>> corner where the >>> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >>> forward longeron attaches. >>> >>> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >>> bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these >>> areas? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> -Sean #40303 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <robertbrunk(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: gas strut
Date: Oct 19, 2010
I bought the ones made in Europe. When I open up they go up and stay up just fine. That's how I like them to work. Ordered from stateside. Don't remember who. But mc masters sounds right. It's windy here in kcrp but the doors are not effected. Fwiw Robert Brunkenhoefer Sent from my Apple iPad On Oct 19, 2010, at 2:49 PM, gary wrote: > So, after all the e-mails about replacement door struts, has anyone found one that replaces Van=99s heavy duty one? Where do you buy, what is the part #, and what is the price? Lots of possibilities were listed but no definite conclusions from someone who has actually done it and it worked as advertised. > > Gary Specketer > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM > Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 2:51 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: gas strut > > Has anyone tried the 9416K15 or 4175T5 from McMaster? This seems to be the most comparable to the original struts supplied by Vans. > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
Here is my solution to the "hard to feel detent" on the Vans fuel selector. I made two stops using tubing and countersunk screws. Now the fuel is easily positioned from one fuel tank to the other even in the dark. Jim Combs - N312F ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Anyone have experience using and/or retrofitting the Vans aileron (spring) trim system? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
I picked up a tungsten bar from ebay, sold by the fine folks at www.tungsten.com. Works great. It is edging out my Cleaveland Main Squeeze as my "favourite tool". Chris On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > Stein sells a tungsten bar. Make sure you're sitting down when you see the > price. > > > On Oct 19, 2010, at 3:38 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > >> >> Did you purchase the bar or make it? If you bought it, do you have a >> reference link? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> On 10/19/10 5:20 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >>> >>> Nope, my tungsten bar is relatively thin, but unmodified. I also have >>> some >>> thinner steel bars, but don't recall using them there. >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens >>> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 5:38 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >>> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens >>> >>> Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an >>> RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago and >>> never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even still >>> around. >>> >>> -Sean #40303 >>> >>> On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >>> >>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >>>> >>>> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >>>> wasn't the answer you were looking for. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean >>>> Stephens >>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >>>> >>>> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across >>>> two areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The >>>> attached pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right >>>> corner where the >>>> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >>>> forward longeron attaches. >>>> >>>> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >>>> bucking bar recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these >>>> areas? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> -Sean #40303 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin
Sean: Here's what I did for that situation: http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2029%20Fuse%20Side%20Skins/slides/DSC02624.html I used a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to make the cut, BTW ,I think I know where your emp bar is, it found its way into my hangar, send me your address and I'll send it to you. Deems On 10/19/2010 2:38 PM, Sean Stephens wrote: > > Is that the modified emp bar you are referring to? Unfortunately an > RV-10 builder in Prescott, AZ "borrowed" my emp bar a few years ago > and never returned it. Cannot remember his name or if he is even > still around. > > -Sean #40303 > > On 10/19/10 4:14 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Leffler" >> >> My tungsten bar fit in those places without an issue. I know that >> wasn't >> the answer you were looking for. >> >> Bob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens >> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 4:44 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Tough Rivets on Fuse Forward Side Skin >> >> Working on wrapping up the dreaded Section 29 and have come across >> two >> areas where I am unable to get the skin rivets bucked. The attached >> pictures show the two areas. One is in the bottom right corner where >> the >> F-1041 meets F-1042 and the other is behind the F-1001J where the >> forward >> longeron attaches. >> >> What have others done in these two spots? Anyone have a special >> bucking bar >> recommendation or maybe the use of pop rivets in these areas? >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
If the fuel line ruptures up in the engine area, how do you turn the fuel off? Try to feel between the detents? As many do not know, starting about 2 and a half years ago, Vans began sending a different fuel valve arrangement out with kits. There is now a spring loaded, lift-to-turn, handle with positive detents. IMHO it also looks a whole lot nicer than the old handle. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316402#316402 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 19, 2010
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Successful Windscreen installation with Weld-On 10
That's what I was thinking. Clearly some people had some problems where they were trying to apply a lot of pressure to the glass to get it to conform to the somewhat irregular glass top. I used the aluminum fingers method but kept it all light and didn't try flex the plexi at all. The Weldon does adhere a lot better than just epoxy or something and seems definitely worth using. The urethane stuff that I think Geoff used sounds good too. On 10/19/2010 2:46 PM, Kevin Belue wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Kevin Belue > > I think that window installation with Weldon without crazing is the norm and has been done for several years. Good write up. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: gas strut
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
In June I got a quote for a 600N gas strut from Bansbach/EasyLift, for $45 each, the quote was for 4 struts. It has practically the same dimensions as the Stabilus struts that come with the kit, and has increased end damping. Attached an image of each with dimensions. I never ended up ordering them though, so can't tell if they will work or not. It's made in Germany also, and lead time is 8 weeks. Their website: http://www.bansbach.de/com/gasfedern/konfigurator.html Lenny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316428#316428 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/easylift_523.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/vans_gas_spring_137.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 breaks record
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2010
... and the last comment on that article: "Didn't John Denver fly in an experimental plane?" :) haaa Lenny [quote="rv10builder(at)verizon.ne"]John is local to me. He is a great and driven person who has helped me with my RV-10 when I first got started. http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html (http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html) Pascal > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316434#316434 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Jim, how do you turn off the fuel in an emergency? Gary Specketer _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 7:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel valve with position both Here is my solution to the "hard to feel detent" on the Vans fuel selector. I made two stops using tubing and countersunk screws. Now the fuel is easily positioned from one fuel tank to the other even in the dark. Jim Combs - N312F ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Are the e-glass strips for the included in the kit?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Hi, probably a funny question, but I found three rolls of various width of e-glass in my workshop, but as per the plans there are 10 different widths mentioned. I can't remember if the glass came with the kit. Cheers Michael -------- RV-10 builder (interior,avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316458#316458 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Are the e-glass strips for the included in the kit?
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 20, 2010
I don't recall the e-glass being included. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316469#316469 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Are the e-glass strips for the included in the kit?
From: "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Date: Oct 20, 2010
The only fiberglass provided was the pieces for the door. bob -------- Bob Leffler N410BL - Finish RV-10 #40684 http://mykitlog.com/rleffler Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316488#316488 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 breaks record
Gotta love this plane... , I managed to get through some holes in the Chino CA weather and make it to Stellar Airpark, just ouside of Phoenix.- Then left this morning and managed nonstop to Pecan Plantation SSW of Ft Worth. - 749nm, 862sm, in 4.6 hours using 47.5 gallons of fuel... done without t he normal favoring winds.- Wife, Kim is driving a car, and is not real ha ppy with me at this point!- She'll arrive tomorrow afternoon... pretty ti red I'm sure. Don McDonald - Thanks Pascal for the transportation, and Jeff, thanks for the hangar, and send me you address information. - I guess if you do the math that works out to a little over 187mph average. - Better that the guy in the article, and he had more miles to spread his climbout over. --- On Tue, 10/19/10, Lenny Iszak wrote: From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record Date: Tuesday, October 19, 2010, 10:50 PM ... and the last comment on that article: "Didn't John Denver fly in an experimental plane?" :) haaa Lenny [quote="rv10builder(at)verizon.ne"]John is local to me. He is a great and driven person who- has helped me with my RV-10 when I first got started. http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html (http://w ww.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html) - Pascal --- > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316434#316434 le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-10 breaks record
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
You planned this trip without spending this weekend at CopperState Fly-In???? Sacrilege! On Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 2:59 PM, Don McDonald wrote: > Gotta love this plane... , I managed to get through some holes in the Chino > CA weather and make it to Stellar Airpark, just ouside of Phoenix. Then > left this morning and managed nonstop to Pecan Plantation SSW of Ft Worth. > 749nm, 862sm, in 4.6 hours using 47.5 gallons of fuel... done without the > normal favoring winds. Wife, Kim is driving a car, and is not real happy > with me at this point! She'll arrive tomorrow afternoon... pretty tired I'm > sure. > Don McDonald > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
The middle position blocks both fuel lines. Jim C On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 9:26 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > If the fuel line ruptures up in the engine area, how do you turn the fuel > off? Try to feel between the detents? > > As many do not know, starting about 2 and a half years ago, Vans began > sending a different fuel valve arrangement out with kits. There is now a > spring loaded, lift-to-turn, handle with positive detents. IMHO it also > looks a whole lot nicer than the old handle. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316402#316402 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com>
The center position cuts off the fuel but there is no detent. Is the new valve a drop in replacement or does it require re-plumbing? Jim C On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 9:26 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > If the fuel line ruptures up in the engine area, how do you turn the fuel > off? Try to feel between the detents? > > As many do not know, starting about 2 and a half years ago, Vans began > sending a different fuel valve arrangement out with kits. There is now a > spring loaded, lift-to-turn, handle with positive detents. IMHO it also > looks a whole lot nicer than the old handle. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316402#316402 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 breaks record
Date: Oct 20, 2010
what kind of weather at Chino? Sounds like the lack of favorable winds might be due to being relaltive low altitude for the CA AZ part of the trip. What percent power was used for the Stellar FTW portion of the trip? LOP? ----- Original Message ----- From: Don McDonald To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 2:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record Gotta love this plane... , I managed to get through some holes in the Chino CA weather and make it to Stellar Airpark, just ouside of Phoenix. Then left this morning and managed nonstop to Pecan Plantation SSW of Ft Worth. 749nm, 862sm, in 4.6 hours using 47.5 gallons of fuel... done without the normal favoring winds. Wife, Kim is driving a car, and is not real happy with me at this point! She'll arrive tomorrow afternoon... pretty tired I'm sure. Don McDonald Thanks Pascal for the transportation, and Jeff, thanks for the hangar, and send me you address information. I guess if you do the math that works out to a little over 187mph average. Better that the guy in the article, and he had more miles to spread his climbout over. --- On Tue, 10/19/10, Lenny Iszak wrote: From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date: Tuesday, October 19, 2010, 10:50 PM ... and the last comment on that article: "Didn't John Denver fly in an experimental plane?" :) haaa Lenny [quote="rv10builder(at)verizon.ne"]John is local to me. He is a great and driven person who has helped me with my RV-10 when I first got started. http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html (http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html) Pascal > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316434#316434http://www.mat ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis --> http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution Web Site -http://www===================== = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net>
Subject: Trutrak auto trim
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Ordered today and wired the harness this afternoon. Two hours were required to make male Dsub 9 pin for AP side, 25 pin female Dsub for the auto trim box and a 9 pin female dsub for the servo attach. TT indicates that a special connector is available if the unit ever needs to be removed for service. The aircraft could continue flying with existing manual trim. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 breaks record
see below --- On Wed, 10/20/10, DLM wrote: From: DLM <dlm46007(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record Date: Wednesday, October 20, 2010, 5:06 PM what kind of weather at Chino?--- Total overcast/mist/rain.- Pascal said that the day I left that night they had numerous thunderstorms and no holes the next day... just a vfr pilot at this time.- Sounds like the la ck of favorable winds might be due to being relaltive low altitude for the CA AZ part of the trip.- Chino to Stellar was at 9.500'.- Weather was f ine, flight was fine... just getting through the cloud layers at Chino was the problem.- -What percent power was used for the Stellar FTW portion of the trip? LOP?- I flew the first part of this leg at 9500', then the r emainder at 11,500 due to clouds.- I usually fly at 2,000 to 2100 rpm, 20 to 21mp, and lop... it seems to depend on altitude, wind direction, and- temperature.... I just try to get everything set at a combination that keep everything happy.- Not so lop that the engine sputters, not too close to peak where the cht's climb.- Sometimes, like today, it even means backin g down the mp a bit.- If you ck the pics, wind at Sweetwater was 060 at 6kt, not favorable at all .- The shot of the panel shows 2,080 rpm, alt 11,400, and mp pulled back about 1" worth.- Sending the AFS efis back to upgrade this winter... then I'll have the oat, and tach working... then I'll actually have tas and win d info. Don't know what percent power I was running at... but Kelley will figure it out for us. Kelley, sorry for not getting over to Chandler... had some sailing friends that live right by Stellar...and-I took them up for a short ride... sorry Pascal... one of these days!- Stellar is-really nice.. fuel $4.18, and $5 per night tiedown. Don McDonald ----- Original Message ----- From: Don McDonald Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 2:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record Gotta love this plane... , I managed to get through some holes in the Chino CA weather and make it to Stellar Airpark, just ouside of Phoenix.- Then left this morning and managed nonstop to Pecan Plantation SSW of Ft Worth. - 749nm, 862sm, in 4.6 hours using 47.5 gallons of fuel... done without t he normal favoring winds.- Wife, Kim is driving a car, and is not real ha ppy with me at this point!- She'll arrive tomorrow afternoon... pretty ti red I'm sure. Don McDonald - Thanks Pascal for the transportation, and Jeff, thanks for the hangar, and send me you address information. - I guess if you do the math that works out to a little over 187mph average. - Better that the guy in the article, and he had more miles to spread his climbout over. --- On Tue, 10/19/10, Lenny Iszak wrote: From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 breaks record Date: Tuesday, October 19, 2010, 10:50 PM ... and the last comment on that article: "Didn't John Denver fly in an experimental plane?" :) haaa Lenny [quote="rv10builder(at)verizon.ne"]John is local to me. He is a great and driven person who- has helped me with my RV-10 when I first got started. http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html (http://w ww.ocregister.com/articles/rost-271399-says-airplane.html) - Pascal --- > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316434#316434 http://www.matr onics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis-----> http://forums.matronbsp; - - - ---- List Contribution Web Site - http://www======= =============== href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: fuel valve with position both
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 20, 2010
The new valve requires re-plumbing. It's the same valve but as I recall the shaft has been slightly modified (thinner?). It sits lower (to give more room for the hot air ducting), and connects to the handle with a long shaft. The valve is rotated 180 degrees, eliminating the "cross over" in the fuel lines. The penetration out of the center tunnel is now handled by an AN fitting, instead of bending the tubing and a rubber grommet. I was unfortunate to get an "in between" kit; some parts were for the old set up, some for the new. Vans asked which one I wanted, I said the new set up, and they sent the needed parts. I did have to re-engineer some of the now-wrong holes; in particular, mounting the valve lower. Bob -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316528#316528 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Oct 20, 2010
Yes=2C works great. Simple. From: dlm34077(at)cox.net Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim Date: Tue=2C 19 Oct 2010 16:48:08 -0700 Anyone have experience using and/or retrofitting the Vans aileron (spring) trim system? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Rudder Pedal Mounting
Date: Oct 21, 2010
Hi I was wondering what the list consensus is regarding using the forward or after rudder pedal mounting holes. What are people using and are you happy with the location. For those who answer this query, it would also be useful to know your height to see if there is a correlation. Inquiring minds need to know. Les #40643 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu>
Date: Oct 21, 2010
Disclaimer: my -10 is not yet flying. I am 5'6" and put the pedals in the aft position. I've sat in the seat, with the foam in place, and I'm glad I didn't put them forward. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316628#316628 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Subject: Vinyl stripes?
Date: Oct 22, 2010
Anyone out there use vinyl instead of paint for stripes or other swooshes o n your aircraft paint scheme? TDT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2010
I put mine aft. I am 5-10. I have flown Scotts plane and his is in the forwa rd position. I can use either location it just seemed more centered on the t rack for me in the aft position. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 21, 2010, at 18:48, "Les Kearney" wrote: > Hi > > I was wondering what the list consensus is regarding using the forward or a fter rudder pedal mounting holes. > > What are people using and are you happy with the location. For those who a nswer this query, it would also be useful to know your height to see if ther e is a correlation. > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les > #40643 > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vinyl stripes?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Oct 21, 2010
I talked to the guys that do it at OSH a couple of years ago. I had a C182 with Vinyl stripes and they held up well and did not discolor, so I had a good experience with the Vinyl. I looked long and hard at the vinyl schemes before deciding to just do a 3 color paint job on my plane. Reasons - 1) It was not particularly cheap about $2000 over a base white paint job. 2) It is definitely not as permanent as paint even if it does hold up well 3)The price for a second or third color from a good paint shop is about the same 4)The shaded letters that you can get from a professional paint job looks a lot better than vinyl letters - mine done by Kracon in Lincoln CA are awesome. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316631#316631 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2010
Subject: Re: Vinyl stripes?
This plane was painted all one color and then they added the vinyl. I thought it looked kind of fun. (there are better photos of the plane out there). [image: img] There is or was a company in our town that printed photo grade images on exterior premium auto vinyl for surprisingly cheap including perforated vinyl for windows. Something like $10.00 square foot. The cost was in the install on a car (wrapping around corners, lights etc=85). But on large fla t surfaces it seems pretty easy to apply. I think they float it on a mild soapy water to position and then let dry. Really great for female nose art on military paint schemes. Also WAY cheaper than the vinyl bars & stars I have seen which I had quoted at something like $300 per sticker. Great also because you can dimension it to your exact needs. And you can change it out when you want a new woman (teehee). Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2010 6:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vinyl stripes? I talked to the guys that do it at OSH a couple of years ago. I had a C182 with Vinyl stripes and they held up well and did not discolor, so I had a good experience with the Vinyl. I looked long and hard at the vinyl schemes before deciding to just do a 3 color paint job on my plane. Reasons - 1) It was not particularly cheap about $2000 over a base white paint job. 2) It is definitely not as permanent as paint even if it does hold up well 3)The price for a second o r third color from a good paint shop is about the same 4)The shaded letters that you can get from a professional paint job looks a lot better than viny l letters - mine done by Kracon in Lincoln CA are awesome. -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - finally done Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316631#316631 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2010
Subject: Re: Vinyl stripes?
I have a 1/4" silver tape stripe dividing the large white and yellow sections on my plane. It was something I hadn't planned on and ended up getting from the auto parts store at the last minute. The dark dividing line between the yellow and white made a huge difference in how well each stands out. It's held up perfectly for 3+years, except for one small section on the cowl that gets a lot of hand contact and direct air flow from the the slipstream. I've had to replace that piece a few times. Dave Saylor AirCrafters 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 95076 831-722-9141 Shop 831-750-0284 Cell On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 6:24 PM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote: > Anyone out there use vinyl instead of paint for stripes or other swooshes on > your aircraft paint scheme? > > TDT > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2010
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
6' 2" and forward for me. Just a tip as you get to this section. See this thread. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight=kerf Phil On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 8:23 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Disclaimer: my -10 is not yet flying. > I am 5'6" and put the pedals in the aft position. I've sat in the seat, > with the foam in place, and I'm glad I didn't put them forward. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316628#316628 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2010
From: Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
I also put mine forward.- I'm 6'.... I added rudder pedal extensions for my wife... at 5' 1", it wouldn't have mattered whether they were mounted fo reward or aft, she would have needed extensions anyway. Don McDonald --- On Fri, 10/22/10, Phillip Perry wrote: From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting Date: Friday, October 22, 2010, 7:28 AM 6' 2" and forward for me. Just a tip as you get to this section.- See this thread. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight= kerf Phil On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 8:23 PM, Bob Turner wrote: Disclaimer: my -10 is not yet flying. I am 5'6" and put the pedals in the aft position. I've sat in the seat, wit h the foam in place, and I'm glad I didn't put them forward. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316628#316628 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2010
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
Ditto...it's a height dependent decision. I am 6'1" and going Forward was the way to go for me for sure. I needed extensions on the pedals for my wife, who's 5'2". I would look at who your primary pilots are and adjust it accordingly. Not sure where the break-point is, but I've had people who were 5'6"-5'7" do fine in the plane. Certainly by 5'9-10" you should be able to go forward. The side benefit of forward pedal position is it allows your seat to also be a little forward, giving you a little C.G. boost to the forward position, giving you a slightly increased margin for carrying baggage. I would not want to have to sit 2" further aft in my plane, because I pile in the baggage pretty good. I need all the margin I can get. In fact, I would actually recommend before you close up the area under the panel, fit a seat and rails, and mount the pedals, and try it for yourself. If you can reach the pedals in the forward position, I'd recommend going for it. If not, then move the pedals aft. At 6'1", I have PLENTY of room and can move my seat back quite a bit, so taller people will do well in this plane. Also, at 6'1", I have my seat moved back a good 2-4" I think from forward position...so I have some good margin to move it forward if I need. But in general, I'd recommend to look at your own height, and that of the primary pilots, and then make your decision...favoring the forward position when possible, to allow you to keep your C.G. as forward as possible. THIS PLANE IS NOT NOSE HEAVY when you travel. In fact, on our trips, the C.G. moves aft so far that on rotation, you have to make very sure to not be as aggressive on the rotation, because it is much more sensitive...and on roll-out, I can hold the nose up even down to 10-15mph sometimes. You don't want to build a plane to be less noseheavy if possible. Remember that the RV-10 is an X/C plane....it's built to carry baggage. If you want to carry ballast (I don't need to), to help with the flare when empty, then great...but don't build it with the idea of trying to move the C.G. aft...that would be a mistake. Tim On 10/22/2010 9:49 AM, Don McDonald wrote: > I also put mine forward. I'm 6'.... I added rudder pedal extensions for > my wife... at 5' 1", it wouldn't have mattered whether they were mounted > foreward or aft, she would have needed extensions anyway. > Don McDonald > > --- On *Fri, 10/22/10, Phillip Perry //* wrote: > > > From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, October 22, 2010, 7:28 AM > > 6' 2" and forward for me. > > Just a tip as you get to this section. See this thread. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight=kerf > <http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight=kerf> > > Phil > > > On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 8:23 PM, Bob Turner <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>> > wrote: > > <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>> > > Disclaimer: my -10 is not yet flying. > I am 5'6" and put the pedals in the aft position. I've sat in > the seat, with the foam in place, and I'm glad I didn't put them > forward. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316628#316628 > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * > > =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com > llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting
Date: Oct 22, 2010
I am 5"9" and used the aft position. I fly with the seat in the third detent (2" to 3" inches back?). I am with Tim, set the pedals for the primary pilot. Also, you can made minor adjustments with the length of the interconnect between the rudder cables and the pedals...... Rene' Felker N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 9:20 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting Ditto...it's a height dependent decision. I am 6'1" and going Forward was the way to go for me for sure. I needed extensions on the pedals for my wife, who's 5'2". I would look at who your primary pilots are and adjust it accordingly. Not sure where the break-point is, but I've had people who were 5'6"-5'7" do fine in the plane. Certainly by 5'9-10" you should be able to go forward. The side benefit of forward pedal position is it allows your seat to also be a little forward, giving you a little C.G. boost to the forward position, giving you a slightly increased margin for carrying baggage. I would not want to have to sit 2" further aft in my plane, because I pile in the baggage pretty good. I need all the margin I can get. In fact, I would actually recommend before you close up the area under the panel, fit a seat and rails, and mount the pedals, and try it for yourself. If you can reach the pedals in the forward position, I'd recommend going for it. If not, then move the pedals aft. At 6'1", I have PLENTY of room and can move my seat back quite a bit, so taller people will do well in this plane. Also, at 6'1", I have my seat moved back a good 2-4" I think from forward position...so I have some good margin to move it forward if I need. But in general, I'd recommend to look at your own height, and that of the primary pilots, and then make your decision...favoring the forward position when possible, to allow you to keep your C.G. as forward as possible. THIS PLANE IS NOT NOSE HEAVY when you travel. In fact, on our trips, the C.G. moves aft so far that on rotation, you have to make very sure to not be as aggressive on the rotation, because it is much more sensitive...and on roll-out, I can hold the nose up even down to 10-15mph sometimes. You don't want to build a plane to be less noseheavy if possible. Remember that the RV-10 is an X/C plane....it's built to carry baggage. If you want to carry ballast (I don't need to), to help with the flare when empty, then great...but don't build it with the idea of trying to move the C.G. aft...that would be a mistake. Tim On 10/22/2010 9:49 AM, Don McDonald wrote: > I also put mine forward. I'm 6'.... I added rudder pedal extensions for > my wife... at 5' 1", it wouldn't have mattered whether they were mounted > foreward or aft, she would have needed extensions anyway. > Don McDonald > > --- On *Fri, 10/22/10, Phillip Perry //* wrote: > > > From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Mounting > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, October 22, 2010, 7:28 AM > > 6' 2" and forward for me. > > Just a tip as you get to this section. See this thread. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight=kerf > <http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57070&highlight=kerf > > > Phil > > > On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 8:23 PM, Bob Turner <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>> > wrote: > > <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>> > > Disclaimer: my -10 is not yet flying. > I am 5'6" and put the pedals in the aft position. I've sat in > the seat, with the foam in place, and I'm glad I didn't put them > forward. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316628#316628 > > > ========== > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * > > =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com > llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2010
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: In-flight deer strike.
Hi Guys, I've always worried about bird strikes especially when flying during the spring/fall bird migrations up here in Canada but hitting a deer while in the air seemed like long odds. http://perry.casson.ca/photos/index.php?album=RV-10/Deer_Strike/ Anyway, we are all fine and no major damage to the plane. Perry Casson RV-10 C-FMHP ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2010
Subject: Re: In-flight deer strike.
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
You need to build a deer stencil and put a silhouette on your door. Seriously! On Oct 22, 2010 12:40 PM, "Perry Casson" wrote: > Hi Guys, > > > I've always worried about bird strikes especially when flying during the > spring/fall bird migrations up here in Canada but hitting a deer while in > the air seemed like long odds. > > > http://perry.casson.ca/photos/index.php?album=RV-10/Deer_Strike/ > > > Anyway, we are all fine and no major damage to the plane. > > > Perry Casson > > RV-10 C-FMHP > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: In-flight deer strike.
From: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Date: Oct 22, 2010
I almost hit a deer right after takeoff in a citation. Glad you are ok. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 22, 2010, at 11:30, Perry Casson wrote: > Hi Guys, > > > > I=99ve always worried about bird strikes especially when flying duri ng the spring/fall bird migrations up here in Canada but hitting a deer whil e in the air seemed like long odds. > > > > http://perry.casson.ca/photos/index.php?album=RV-10/Deer_Strike/ > > > > Anyway, we are all fine and no major damage to the plane. > > > > Perry Casson > > RV-10 C-FMHP ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: In-flight deer strike.
From: "Andy Turner" <aturner(at)clarion.edu>
Date: Oct 22, 2010
I hope you at least have the venison in the freezer, offsetting to a small extent the cost of repairs! -------- Andy Turner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316703#316703 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Overhead light panel, lit!
Date: Oct 22, 2010
I purchased these 12Volt=2C 150 lumin LEDs because they are low profile=2C high output=2C low heat=2C low current and very long lasting. I purchased these on the web at: Sailorsams.com. They work great for this application. 10'X25' Mobile Mini storage container deliverred next Friday. Plane is comi ng out of the basement and the container will be a mini hanger for a month or two. All that is left is to do is final sensor hookups on the engine=2C exhaust=2C and attach the fuel and oil lines. Then off to paint!!! JOhn Gonzalez #40409=2C 2300 hours with QB wings and fuse. 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October 04, 2010 - Present

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ha